Has anybody come up with an inexpensive way of organizing cables[snip]
among groups of Raspberry Pi hosts? The problem tends to be power
supplies. Most come with a fairly long cord and coiling it results
in a sort of bird's nest. Shortening it might be possible for the
older Pi's, but probably not for the later USB-C models. Stock
length cables are better a foot long than an inch short, so in the
end they're all at least a little too long.
Has anybody come up with an inexpensive way of organizing cables
among groups of Raspberry Pi hosts? The problem tends to be power
supplies. Most come with a fairly long cord and coiling it results
in a sort of bird's nest. Shortening it might be possible for the
older Pi's, but probably not for the later USB-C models. Stock
length cables are better a foot long than an inch short, so in the
end they're all at least a little too long.
Spirothene.
We made a cluster of 50 Pi4s in a 4U server chassis. To avoid a cabling nightmare much of the interconnect was via boards plugged into the GPIO.
They provided power and USB-serial for the UART - it also allowed power switching the Pi for hard resets. Power was daisy chained from a big
PC PSU:
https://github.com/Cambridge-AdvancedOS/cam-power-uart-hat
At the back of the box was a big USB hub and an ethernet switch, from where everything fed into a master controller Pi.
That was a custom build, but companies have similar solutions: https://www.8086.net/products
Since the Pi only needs a 5V supply, putting in power via the GPIOs avoids needing USB-C PSUs.
Spirothene.
crn wrote:
Spirothene.
First googlewhack I've seen in ages, nowadays everything seems to match
an amazon 'brandname' ...
On 2024-06-12, Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk> wrote:
crn wrote:
Spirothene.
First googlewhack I've seen in ages, nowadays everything seems to match
an amazon 'brandname' ...
Old name - now generally known as Spiral Wrap.
Andy Burns wrote:
crn wrote:
Spirothene.
First googlewhack I've seen in ages, nowadays everything seems to match
an amazon 'brandname' ...
Old name - now generally known as Spiral Wrap.
Has anybody come up with an inexpensive way of organizing cables/snip
among groups of Raspberry Pi hosts? The problem tends to be power
First googlewhack I've seen in ages
Ziploc sandwich bags. Cut a small hole on each bottom corner for
either end of the cable - then seal it up.
This is an idea I just came up with. It may not solve your problem,
per se. The bundles, though, would be separated by a bag and may
prove easier to handle.
<bp@www.zefox.net> writes:
Has anybody come up with an inexpensive way of organizing cables/snip
among groups of Raspberry Pi hosts? The problem tends to be power
Hi Bob,
Ziploc sandwich bags. Cut a small hole on each bottom corner for either
end of the cable - then seal it up.
This is an idea I just came up with. It may not solve your problem, per
se. The bundles, though, would be separated by a bag and may prove
easier to handle.
Has anybody come up with an inexpensive way of organizing cables
among groups of Raspberry Pi hosts? The problem tends to be power
supplies. Most come with a fairly long cord and coiling it results
in a sort of bird's nest. Shortening it might be possible for the
older Pi's, but probably not for the later USB-C models. Stock
length cables are better a foot long than an inch short, so in the
end they're all at least a little too long.
Daniel <me@sc1f1dan.com> wrote:
<bp@www.zefox.net> writes:
Has anybody come up with an inexpensive way of organizing cables/snip
among groups of Raspberry Pi hosts? The problem tends to be power
Hi Bob,
Ziploc sandwich bags. Cut a small hole on each bottom corner for either
end of the cable - then seal it up.
This is an idea I just came up with. It may not solve your problem, per
se. The bundles, though, would be separated by a bag and may prove
easier to handle.
Thank you, that's the best idea so far!
bob prohaska
On 6/12/24 11:55, Daniel wrote:
Ziploc sandwich bags. Cut a small hole on each bottom corner for
either end of the cable - then seal it up.
I hadn't considered creating a hole to allow cables to sneak out of a
baggie.
I wonder if a traditional non-sealing / fold up sandwich baggie that
folds over itself might work as well without the need to make any
holes.
This is an idea I just came up with. It may not solve your problem,
per se. The bundles, though, would be separated by a bag and may
prove easier to handle.
I used off brand zip-lock bags for cables during my last move. It
made the boxes of cables a LOT less messy. I could grab a baggie and
pull it out without worrying about things getting tangled. It worked
fairly well. The only thing keeping it from working great is the need
to acquire and dispose of the baggies.
The simple act of coiling a cable induces a twist in it, which will
try to straighten itself out after you release it.
coil and lies flat once released. Some cables work better than
others, in particular cables that have been abused in the past
(including in the packet!) may be less reluctant to co-operate.
One approach that sort-of works is to plug two walwarts (one for the
Pi, one for the hub) into a single 3-outlet extension cord, then coil
the excess wire (both mains and 5-volt) around the cleat- like object
which results and hold it in place by a cable tie or split conduit.
I've done a couple like this and it's ugly but better than loose
wires. One can at least see where each Pi plugs in.
On 6/14/24 09:27, bp@www.zefox.net wrote:
One approach that sort-of works is to plug two walwarts (one for the Pi, one for the hub) into a single 3-outlet extension cord, then coil the excess wire (both mains and 5-volt) around the cleat- like object which results and hold it in place by a cable tie or split conduit. I've done
a couple like this and it's ugly but better than loose wires. One can at least see where each Pi plugs in.
I would be careful -> avoid coiling low voltage with high voltage mains.
My concern is that you would end up with something akin to a (poor) transformer of sorts. Wherein the high voltage mains would couple onto
the low voltage lines. At a 1:1 ratio, you'd end up with the same high voltage on the low voltage secondary side.
I don't know how many loops on a coil would be needed for this to be noticeable.
On 6/14/24 09:27, bp@www.zefox.net wrote:
One approach that sort-of works is to plug two walwarts (one for the
Pi, one for the hub) into a single 3-outlet extension cord, then coil
the excess wire (both mains and 5-volt) around the cleat- like object
which results and hold it in place by a cable tie or split conduit.
I've done a couple like this and it's ugly but better than loose
wires. One can at least see where each Pi plugs in.
I would be careful -> avoid coiling low voltage with high voltage mains.
My concern is that you would end up with something akin to a (poor) transformer of sorts. Wherein the high voltage mains would couple onto
the low voltage lines. At a 1:1 ratio, you'd end up with the same high voltage on the low voltage secondary side.
I don't know how many loops on a coil would be needed for this to be noticeable.
Grant Taylor <gtaylor@tnetconsulting.net> wrote:
On 6/14/24 09:27, bp@www.zefox.net wrote:Without an iron core of some sort I doubt if there's much risk.
One approach that sort-of works is to plug two walwarts (one for the
Pi, one for the hub) into a single 3-outlet extension cord, then coil
the excess wire (both mains and 5-volt) around the cleat- like object
which results and hold it in place by a cable tie or split conduit.
I've done a couple like this and it's ugly but better than loose
wires. One can at least see where each Pi plugs in.
I would be careful -> avoid coiling low voltage with high voltage mains.
My concern is that you would end up with something akin to a (poor)
transformer of sorts. Wherein the high voltage mains would couple onto
the low voltage lines. At a 1:1 ratio, you'd end up with the same high
voltage on the low voltage secondary side.
I don't know how many loops on a coil would be needed for this to be
noticeable.
However wiring regulations require that mains carrying cables should
be either 50mm away from low voltage ones or that there should be
'mechanical separation' between mains and low voltage wiring. (That's
the basics anyway).
Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:
Grant Taylor <gtaylor@tnetconsulting.net> wrote:
On 6/14/24 09:27, bp@www.zefox.net wrote:Without an iron core of some sort I doubt if there's much risk.
One approach that sort-of works is to plug two walwarts (one for the
Pi, one for the hub) into a single 3-outlet extension cord, then coil
the excess wire (both mains and 5-volt) around the cleat- like object
which results and hold it in place by a cable tie or split conduit.
I've done a couple like this and it's ugly but better than loose
wires. One can at least see where each Pi plugs in.
I would be careful -> avoid coiling low voltage with high voltage mains. >> My concern is that you would end up with something akin to a (poor)
transformer of sorts. Wherein the high voltage mains would couple onto
the low voltage lines. At a 1:1 ratio, you'd end up with the same high
voltage on the low voltage secondary side.
I don't know how many loops on a coil would be needed for this to be
noticeable.
However wiring regulations require that mains carrying cables should
be either 50mm away from low voltage ones or that there should be 'mechanical separation' between mains and low voltage wiring. (That's
the basics anyway).
I hadn't considered electrical codes 8-) I suspect that very few
computer setups in homes observe a 50 mm separation rule, at
least here in the US. Still a picky inspector might take issue.
bp@www.zefox.net wrote:
I hadn't considered electrical codes 8-) I suspect that very fewI'm quoting UK codes of course. I *think* mechanical separation would
computer setups in homes observe a 50 mm separation rule, at
least here in the US. Still a picky inspector might take issue.
be satisfied by an extra layer of sleeving over the actual wires
carrying the mains voltage. It is now a requirement in the UK (and EU
I believe) that all mains leads are sheathed, you can't use the
'figure of eight' twin flex that used to be quite common.
Chris Green wrote:
bp@www.zefox.net wrote:
I hadn't considered electrical codes 8-) I suspect that very fewI'm quoting UK codes of course. I *think* mechanical separation would
computer setups in homes observe a 50 mm separation rule, at
least here in the US. Still a picky inspector might take issue.
be satisfied by an extra layer of sleeving over the actual wires
carrying the mains voltage. It is now a requirement in the UK (and EU
I believe) that all mains leads are sheathed, you can't use the
'figure of eight' twin flex that used to be quite common.
Electrical codes only apply to the fixed wiring of the building, not to
power cords, trailing 4-way extension leads, USB, HDMI and ethernet cables.
Electrical codes only apply to the fixed wiring of the building, not to
power cords, trailing 4-way extension leads, USB, HDMI and ethernet
cables.
Chris Green wrote:
bp@www.zefox.net wrote:
I hadn't considered electrical codes 8-) I suspect that very fewI'm quoting UK codes of course. I *think* mechanical separation would
computer setups in homes observe a 50 mm separation rule, at
least here in the US. Still a picky inspector might take issue.
be satisfied by an extra layer of sleeving over the actual wires
carrying the mains voltage. It is now a requirement in the UK (and EU
I believe) that all mains leads are sheathed, you can't use the
'figure of eight' twin flex that used to be quite common.
Electrical codes only apply to the fixed wiring of the building, not to
power cords, trailing 4-way extension leads, USB, HDMI and ethernet cables.
And like the pirate code, they are more guidelines
Electrical codes only apply to the fixed wiring of the building, not to
power cords, trailing 4-way extension leads, USB, HDMI and ethernet cables.
But power cords are required to be sheathed aren't they?
On 12/06/2024 21:45, Andrew Smallshaw wrote:
The simple act of coiling a cable induces a twist in it, which will
try to straighten itself out after you release it.
You should use "the over under method", to induce a twist in opposite directions with each loop. Overall, the twists cancel out.
I would be careful -> avoid coiling low voltage with high voltage mains.
My concern is that you would end up with something akin to a (poor) transformer of sorts. Wherein the high voltage mains would couple onto
the low voltage lines. At a 1:1 ratio, you'd end up with the same high voltage on the low voltage secondary side.
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