She says the standard writing on the bottom isn't there anymore.
I'm trying to order a battery for her.
I'm trying to help a relative over the phone who isn't tech saavy.
I was able to get her to Win+I and System to get that her laptop (she says) is listed by "Name" as "HP Laptop 14df0xxx" but that can be edited.
Is there a Windows command I can give someone over the phone which will
tell me the laptop model & serial number?
She says the standard writing on the bottom isn't there anymore.
I'm trying to order a battery for her.
I'm trying to help a relative over the phone who isn't tech saavy.
I was able to get her to Win+I and System to get that her laptop (she says) is listed by "Name" as "HP Laptop 14df0xxx" but that can be edited.
Is there a Windows command I can give someone over the phone which will
tell me the laptop model & serial number?
She says the standard writing on the bottom isn't there anymore.
I'm trying to order a battery for her.
Is there a Windows command I can give someone over the phone which will
tell me the laptop model & serial number?
She says the standard writing on the bottom isn't there anymore.
I'm trying to order a battery for her.
On Fri, 11/1/2024 10:08 PM, Nick Cine wrote:
I'm trying to help a relative over the phone who isn't tech saavy.
I was able to get her to Win+I and System to get that her laptop (she says) >> is listed by "Name" as "HP Laptop 14df0xxx" but that can be edited.
Is there a Windows command I can give someone over the phone which will
tell me the laptop model & serial number?
She says the standard writing on the bottom isn't there anymore.
I'm trying to order a battery for her.
This is just an example, using the digits provided.
HP is a free-range-chicken, in that one model number of HP Laptop
can have a lot of variation in machine content. At least one model,
had AMD processors in some of them, and Intel processors in others and
that requires different motherboards for the purpose. "14-df" can
be the main model number, the other digits are the sub-model.
https://www.hp.com/us-en/shop/pdp/hp-notebook-14-df0020nr
Windows 10 Home in S mode
8th Generation Intel Core i3 processor i3-8130U 2C 4T 2.2GHz
Intel UHD Graphics 620
4 GB memory
128 GB SSD storage
14" diagonal Full HD display
Product # 4XN68UA #ABA
Power Supply 45 W AC power adapter
Battery 3-cell, 41 Wh Li-ion
I ran the "4XN68UA #ABA" field here.
https://parts.hp.com/hpparts/Search_Results.aspx?mscssid=D0C008269A204395AD54798C94709FF7&SearchIn=Product&SearchType=A&searchvalue=&ProductName=4XN68UA+
L11119-855 In stock BATT 3C 41W 3.6A LI HT03041XL-PR+PL # The battery isn't really in stock...
Clicking the "L11119-855" part number, pops up a list of candidate laptops that the battery fits in. And the 14-df0020nr then, isn't in the list.
Since the computer is thin and light, part of the reason
for going through this exercise, is to see what the user faces.
https://www.battdepot.com/ca/opn/notebook+battery/hp/l11119-855/lhp365.aspx
That's not the normal "rotate out" pack based on 18650 cells.
That looks like it could be based on three pouch packs. The
place to hold screws, means it screws into place. This also
limits which direction the assembly can be fitted. It
*might* require removal of the bottom cover.
https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Hardware-and-Upgrade-Questions/Laptop-batteries-L11119-855/td-p/9087932
"I have been searching for suppliers in London.
The prices range from £100 at HP to £29.
The installation charges in Tottenham Court Rd. London range from £50 to £150.
"
And yes, you want "new stock", not a battery pack made when the laptop originally came out. As part of the capacity loss of a battery, can
happen just from it sitting in storage.
https://www.hp.com/us-en/shop/tech-takes/hp-laptop-battery-replacement
powercfg /batteryreport # Unlikely to list the part number, but you never know...
OK, this shows (approximately) what the owner faces. Yes, there's
a sticker on the bottom of the laptop, but the battery replacement
process requires spudger and friends to pry the unit apart. Using the
right tools for the job, leaves fewer blemishes on the seams. But at least you can see that the job is "bottom entry" on this one, and the pack
should screw into place, by a number of screws. There is a connector
on the battery that mates, just like normal packs would use (some of
the contacts carry power, a few of the contacts are for the battery IC
that (via EEPROM) records information about the service life of the battery).
By means of the battery having its own EEPROM, a battery that came from
some other place, already has the information about charge discharge cycles (the EEPROM may get updated when the laptop is used with that battery in place).
"HP Laptop 14 cd Battery Replacement" (not your model, but illustrates where the battery is hiding)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHHEyuSJoIA
Summary: This isn't as easy as my laptop. But this also isn't the worst case
battery installation in an electronic device (which use glue). There's
no glue on these.
The hardest part of this one, is getting a "fresh" pack that isn't stale stock.
The replacement procedure is relatively benign, as these things go.
Paul
I'm trying to help a relative over the phone who isn't tech saavy.
I was able to get her to Win+I and System to get that her laptop (she says) is listed by "Name" as "HP Laptop 14df0xxx" but that can be edited.
Is there a Windows command I can give someone over the phone which will
tell me the laptop model & serial number?
She says the standard writing on the bottom isn't there anymore.
I'm trying to order a battery for her.
I'm trying to help a relative over the phone who isn't tech saavy.
I was able to get her to Win+I and System to get that her laptop (she says) >> is listed by "Name" as "HP Laptop 14df0xxx" but that can be edited.
Is there a Windows command I can give someone over the phone which will
tell me the laptop model & serial number?
You've already gotten the information you need, but for another time
or for other readers:
The system will have the 'HP Support Assisant' program, probably even
an icon on the Taskbar. Start that and the main screen will give you the product (range) name (probably 'HP 14df....'), the Product number (i.e.
the number she now got from Costo) and the Serial number.
As to a Windows (not HP) command: 'System Information' (can be
found/run as msinfo32.exe). The System Summary page will have 'System
SKU' which is the HP Product number and the 'System Model' which is the
HP product (range) name. I don't know a Window command which gives
the hardware serial number.
I'm trying to help a relative over the phone who isn't tech saavy.
I was able to get her to Win+I and System to get that her laptop (she says) is listed by "Name" as "HP Laptop 14df0xxx" but that can be edited.
Is there a Windows command I can give someone over the phone which will
tell me the laptop model & serial number?
She says the standard writing on the bottom isn't there anymore.
I'm trying to order a battery for her.
The top of the About page is the information on the computer.
Near the bottom of this Computer information is a button COPY.
Have them click the button, paste the information into an email and send
it to you.
NO TECHNICAL JARGON to scare the person who does not know computers.
In Windows, what you're most likely capable of obtaining for the device
is via an HP Tool.
If the device is not a Windows S mode laptop, install install the HP
Support Assistant.
- the program when run will provide the computer name, product number
and serial number.
If the device is S mode then the program can not be installed unless HP >provided the Support Assistant as an app in the Microsoft Store or if
already present(included by HP with the as-shipped device).
I ended up purchasing the following battery for her but someone else
is going to have to install it (she has a middle-school son who might
do it).
Nick Cine <nickcine@is.invalid> wrote:
I ended up purchasing the following battery for her but someone else
is going to have to install it (she has a middle-school son who might
do it).
This might help as a guide:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHHEyuSJoIA
When a lithium battery swells as shown in the video, the battery went
bad. First its charge capacity wanes, so you cannot get much charge
into the battery, and the battery won't have much up-time. However, if
the laptop is not really mobile, but stationary on a charger all the
time, the user may not notice the loss in charge capacity (coloumbs). Eventually the battery won't supply enough voltage. You might find it
even gets warm.
I was thinking this was a normal laptop where you pop open a cover plate
to pull out the main battery. Nope, this is a thin model where the
battery is considered not user serviceable; i.e., use, and discard.
The HP Laptop 14-df0xxx was introduced back in Nov 2018, so her laptop
is 6 years old (that's when it got introduced, not when she bought it). Lithium batteries often get pregnant (wane in capacity, and die) before
that. Average life expectency is 2 to 3 years, or 300 to 500 charge
cycles, but a lot depends on how the battery is used (temperature while operating and during storage, is left on a charger all the time,
recharging for short cycles which still count as a charge cycle, depth
of a discharge cycle, etc). Better quality lithiums last 5 years, or
2000 charging cycles, but her laptop was built 6 years ago.
Lithium batteries have a long shelf life, but not necessarily a long
usage life. Like all batteries, their capacity will wane just sitting
on the shelf unused. They chemical.
Thanks for the video for the HP 14 CD (hers is a DF but it may be similar). His battery seems similar, only his is a "TF03XL" while hers is "TX03XL".
His HP model was "920070-855" while hers is "L11119-855" though.
But what matters is the process of how to replace it which her son needs.
She uses the laptop every day in the same spot as if it's a desktop.
She never actually travels.
In that case, should I recommend she leave it on the charger?
Or should see leave it where it is but unplug the charger every day?
On 11/2/2024 12:52 PM, knuttle wrote:
The top of the About page is the information on the computer.
Near the bottom of this Computer information is a button COPY.
Have them click the button, paste the information into an email and send
it to you.
NO TECHNICAL JARGON to scare the person who does not know computers.
I don't see any such info on my system. They need to model
of the laptop. I see only computer name, CPU spec, RAM
amount, and meaningless IDs. (Device ID is actually just a
random GUID to be used to identify a device. I change mine
periodically for good measure.
On 11/3/2024 12:35 PM, Nick Cine wrote:
Thanks for the video for the HP 14 CD (hers is a DF but it may be similar). His battery seems similar, only his is a "TF03XL" while hers is "TX03XL". His HP model was "920070-855" while hers is "L11119-855" though.
But what matters is the process of how to replace it which her son needs.
She uses the laptop every day in the same spot as if it's a desktop.
She never actually travels.
In that case, should I recommend she leave it on the charger?
Or should see leave it where it is but unplug the charger every day?
I would take take out the bad one, and don't put another in.
If she never moves it from the desk, just keep it plugged in and don't
worry about another battery.
On 2 Nov 2024 11:27:11 GMT, Frank Slootweg wrote:
I'm trying to help a relative over the phone who isn't tech saavy.
I was able to get her to Win+I and System to get that her laptop (she says)
is listed by "Name" as "HP Laptop 14df0xxx" but that can be edited.
Is there a Windows command I can give someone over the phone which will
tell me the laptop model & serial number?
You've already gotten the information you need, but for another time
or for other readers:
The system will have the 'HP Support Assisant' program, probably even
an icon on the Taskbar. Start that and the main screen will give you the product (range) name (probably 'HP 14df....'), the Product number (i.e.
the number she now got from Costo) and the Serial number.
As to a Windows (not HP) command: 'System Information' (can be
found/run as msinfo32.exe). The System Summary page will have 'System
SKU' which is the HP Product number and the 'System Model' which is the
HP product (range) name. I don't know a Window command which gives
the hardware serial number.
Thanks for the suggestion of the Hp Support Assistant which she couldn't
find so I didn't want to belabor the issue since your 2nd suggestion was
what I was looking for in terms of a generic Win10 solution to the problem.
Thanks for the suggestion that the msinfo32.exe command will provide system information such as the "System SKU" which I had her run for me just now.
Her "System Model" showed up as "HP Laptop 14-df0xxx" in msinfo32.exe.
More important, her "System SKU" showed up as "5JV97UA#ABA", which turns
out to be the HP product identification (but I'm not sure about the #ABA).
Submit
When I searched Amazon to buy her the battery that Paul found, the seller posted instructions to use what Frank had suggested, so that's how to go. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71E6FWlnoEL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
I ended up purchasing the following battery for her but someone else is
going to have to install it (she has a middle-school son who might do it).
HT03XL L11119-855 Laptop Battery for HP Pavilion 14-DF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CLCNTCBJ
It's amazing how inexpensive these replacement batteries are nowadays.
But 2 of the 3 reviews said "it didn't work" without much more information.
Thanks for the advice of using msinfo to get closer to the model number.
The HP Laptop 14-df0xxx was introduced back in Nov 2018, so her laptop
is 6 years old (that's when it got introduced, not when she bought it). Lithium batteries often get pregnant (wane in capacity, and die) before
that. Average life expectency is 2 to 3 years, or 300 to 500 charge
cycles,
but a lot depends on how the battery is used (temperature while
operating and during storage, is left on a charger all the time,
recharging for short cycles which still count as a charge cycle, depth
of a discharge cycle, etc).
Better quality lithiums last 5 years, or
2000 charging cycles, but her laptop was built 6 years ago.
Lithium batteries have a long shelf life, but not necessarily a long
usage life. Like all batteries, their capacity will wane just sitting
on the shelf unused. They chemical.
On Sun, 3 Nov 2024 01:41:28 -0500, VanguardLH wrote:
Nick Cine <nickcine@is.invalid> wrote:
I ended up purchasing the following battery for her but someone else
is going to have to install it (she has a middle-school son who might
do it).
This might help as a guide:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHHEyuSJoIA
When a lithium battery swells as shown in the video, the battery went
bad. First its charge capacity wanes, so you cannot get much charge
into the battery, and the battery won't have much up-time. However, if
the laptop is not really mobile, but stationary on a charger all the
time, the user may not notice the loss in charge capacity (coloumbs).
Eventually the battery won't supply enough voltage. You might find it
even gets warm.
I was thinking this was a normal laptop where you pop open a cover plate
to pull out the main battery. Nope, this is a thin model where the
battery is considered not user serviceable; i.e., use, and discard.
The HP Laptop 14-df0xxx was introduced back in Nov 2018, so her laptop
is 6 years old (that's when it got introduced, not when she bought it).
Lithium batteries often get pregnant (wane in capacity, and die) before
that. Average life expectency is 2 to 3 years, or 300 to 500 charge
cycles, but a lot depends on how the battery is used (temperature while
operating and during storage, is left on a charger all the time,
recharging for short cycles which still count as a charge cycle, depth
of a discharge cycle, etc). Better quality lithiums last 5 years, or
2000 charging cycles, but her laptop was built 6 years ago.
Lithium batteries have a long shelf life, but not necessarily a long
usage life. Like all batteries, their capacity will wane just sitting
on the shelf unused. They chemical.
Thanks for the video for the HP 14 CD (hers is a DF but it may be similar). His battery seems similar, only his is a "TF03XL" while hers is "TX03XL".
His HP model was "920070-855" while hers is "L11119-855" though.
But what matters is the process of how to replace it which her son needs.
She uses the laptop every day in the same spot as if it's a desktop.
She never actually travels.
In that case, should I recommend she leave it on the charger?
Or should see leave it where it is but unplug the charger every day?
In that case, should I recommend she leave it on the charger?
Or should see leave it where it is but unplug the charger every day?
You sure she isn't already leaving it on the AC charger? When a laptop
is used as a desktop, often it is left connected to an AC power source.
If the battery need replacement, but the laptop doesn't go mobile, just
leave the laptop constantly plugged into AC. The old battery is already
bad, but a new battery isn't needed unless she wants to go mobile with
the laptop. Or she wants it available during a power outage, but she
could add a UPS for a quick and easy fix to cover power outages.
How did she know there was a battery problem? If it was already always
on the charger, she would likely never notice the battery no longer
provided much up-time when not on an AC power source.
Since you are remote, and won't be able to replace the battery, and her
son may not have the expertise to disassemble the laptop, and also
properly reassemble the laptop. She might want to call a local computer
shop to find out how much they charge. But I don't see the point in replacing the battery if the laptop never goes mobile.
Long ago, when mech dinosaurs roamed the Earth, a battery was required
in laptops to boot them. The battery was used as a large capacitor in filtering the input AC power. I haven't seen a laptop in decades that wouldn't boot without the battery while on an AC charger. The battery
isn't designed for user serviceability, so just leave the laptop on the
AC charger since she uses it as a non-mobile computer.
Thanks for the video for the HP 14 CD (hers is a DF but it may be similar). >>> His battery seems similar, only his is a "TF03XL" while hers is "TX03XL". >>> His HP model was "920070-855" while hers is "L11119-855" though.
But what matters is the process of how to replace it which her son needs. >>>
She uses the laptop every day in the same spot as if it's a desktop.
She never actually travels.
In that case, should I recommend she leave it on the charger?
Or should see leave it where it is but unplug the charger every day?
[To 'Nick':] I have a similar use, laptop is mostly - but not only -
used at home in the same spot.
After having ruined our share of batteries by leaving the laptops
plugged in, 'now' (for a few years already) I have it on a AC timer,
which switches on for long enough to last for about a day. Not very convenient for a non-technical person (like your relative?), but it
works for me and prolongs the life of the battery.
I would take take out the bad one, and don't put another in.
If she never moves it from the desk, just keep it plugged in and don't
worry about another battery.
That's indeed what I've done for my wife's laptop (which now is indeed
kind of a desktop), but that laptop still has a insert/remove type of battery, not one which needs to open/'disassemble' the laptop, like with Nick's relative's laptop.
On 4 Nov 2024 11:22:04 GMT, Frank Slootweg wrote:
Thanks for the video for the HP 14 CD (hers is a DF but it may be similar).
His battery seems similar, only his is a "TF03XL" while hers is "TX03XL". >>>> His HP model was "920070-855" while hers is "L11119-855" though.
But what matters is the process of how to replace it which her son needs. >>>>
She uses the laptop every day in the same spot as if it's a desktop.
She never actually travels.
In that case, should I recommend she leave it on the charger?
Or should see leave it where it is but unplug the charger every day?
[To 'Nick':] I have a similar use, laptop is mostly - but not only -
used at home in the same spot.
After having ruined our share of batteries by leaving the laptops
plugged in, 'now' (for a few years already) I have it on a AC timer,
which switches on for long enough to last for about a day. Not very
convenient for a non-technical person (like your relative?), but it
works for me and prolongs the life of the battery.
I would take take out the bad one, and don't put another in.
If she never moves it from the desk, just keep it plugged in and don't
worry about another battery.
That's indeed what I've done for my wife's laptop (which now is indeed
kind of a desktop), but that laptop still has a insert/remove type of
battery, not one which needs to open/'disassemble' the laptop, like with
Nick's relative's laptop.
Thanks for the automatic cycling idea. You'd think the laptop manufacturer would just stop charging the battery when the battery is sensed at full.
Hers can't be the first HP laptop that was used mostly as a desktop would.
Anyway, Paul's battery has arrived. https://i.postimg.cc/SRW3bWGF/HT03-XL-battery.jpg
Now it's up to VanguardLH's procedures he found to replace it.
BTW, the battery came with this screwdriver. Is it anything special to you? https://i.postimg.cc/Y2WwxFYx/HT03-XL-screwdriver.jpg
I'll let people know how it works out.
On 4 Nov 2024 11:22:04 GMT, Frank Slootweg wrote:
Thanks for the video for the HP 14 CD (hers is a DF but it may be similar).
His battery seems similar, only his is a "TF03XL" while hers is "TX03XL". >>> His HP model was "920070-855" while hers is "L11119-855" though.
But what matters is the process of how to replace it which her son needs. >>>
She uses the laptop every day in the same spot as if it's a desktop.
She never actually travels.
In that case, should I recommend she leave it on the charger?
Or should see leave it where it is but unplug the charger every day?
[To 'Nick':] I have a similar use, laptop is mostly - but not only - used at home in the same spot.
After having ruined our share of batteries by leaving the laptops
plugged in, 'now' (for a few years already) I have it on a AC timer,
which switches on for long enough to last for about a day. Not very convenient for a non-technical person (like your relative?), but it
works for me and prolongs the life of the battery.
I would take take out the bad one, and don't put another in.
If she never moves it from the desk, just keep it plugged in and don't
worry about another battery.
That's indeed what I've done for my wife's laptop (which now is indeed kind of a desktop), but that laptop still has a insert/remove type of battery, not one which needs to open/'disassemble' the laptop, like with Nick's relative's laptop.
Thanks for the automatic cycling idea. You'd think the laptop manufacturer would just stop charging the battery when the battery is sensed at full.
Hers can't be the first HP laptop that was used mostly as a desktop would.
Frank Slootweg wrote on 11/4/24 4:22 AM:
After having ruined our share of batteries by leaving the laptops plugged in, 'now' (for a few years already) I have it on a AC timer,
which switches on for long enough to last for about a day. Not very convenient for a non-technical person (like your relative?), but it
works for me and prolongs the life of the battery.
I would take take out the bad one, and don't put another in.
If she never moves it from the desk, just keep it plugged in and don't
worry about another battery.
That's indeed what I've done for my wife's laptop (which now is indeed kind of a desktop), but that laptop still has a insert/remove type of battery, not one which needs to open/'disassemble' the laptop, like with Nick's relative's laptop.
The insert/remove type of battery could be the reason(for earlier
devices) for ruining batteries.
My Acer laptop(built in 2017) with an internal(yes, open, disassemble, remove/replace type) battery has been plugged in with its AC adapter
assembly for almost the entire time of the last 7 yrs.
=> The battery(has never been replaced) and has acurrent capacity of
86.3% of its designed capacity(2659/3080 mAh)
Frank Slootweg wrote on 11/5/24 8:21 AM:[...]
The insert/remove type of battery could be the reason(for earlier
devices) for ruining batteries.
Why? I.e. what makes insert/remove type batteries more prone to damage from sitting at 100% for most of the time?
My Acer laptop(built in 2017) with an internal(yes, open, disassemble,
remove/replace type) battery has been plugged in with its AC adapter
assembly for almost the entire time of the last 7 yrs.
=> The battery(has never been replaced) and has acurrent capacity of
86.3% of its designed capacity(2659/3080 mAh)
Make sure that the 3080 mAh is *really* the *original* design capacity. 3080 mAh seems a somewhat odd number, but perhaps it's indeed the
correct original spec.
Battery utilities have the habit of 'lying'. For example NirSoft 's BatteryInfoView says my battery has a 'Designed Capacity' of 38,397 mWh, that the 'Full Charged Capcity' is also 38,397 mW and that hence the 'Battery Health' is 100%. But the 'HP Battery Check' utility says that
the 'Design Capacity:' is 41WHr, i.e. much more, which matches the
original specs. It also says that the 'Full Charge Capacity:' is now
38WHr, i.e. 93% (after 2 years and 3 months). (N.B. I'm using
(milli)Watts instead of (milli)Amps, because that's what the HP utility
and specs says. BatteryInfoView can report either mWh or mAh.)
BTW, when you say "has been plugged in with its AC adapter assemblyinformation(%, capacity categories)
..." does that indeed mean sitting at 100% for most of the time? I.e.
your Acer laptop does not have/allow a lower limit of say 80-90%. If it does have such a lower limit, my comments do not appply, because it's sitting at 100% what 'kills' (severy limits the life span of) the
battery.
:) I've gone down this path in the past with battery status
In my last reply BatteryInfoView mAh value was what I used(for the %,
Current and Design Capacity. I used that only b/c its a shortcut on my
Wi11 Start Menu/Utilities group and on my Quick Launch Bar(another group
on the Start Menu and pinned to the Taskbar).
- Switching from mAh to mWh yields the exact same results as PowerShell
admin command
powercfg /batteryreport
DESIGN CAPACITY 48,944 mWh
FULL CHARGE CAPACITY 42,256 mWh
i.e. both at exactly the same percentage
And yes, sitting at 100%.
- AC adapter plugged in and battery icon for the devices Li-I battery
in Taskbar indicating 100% capacity. If I unplug, a few minutes later, as expected, it starts to discharge 99%, 98% etc. If left unplugged it takes about 4.5 hrs(for my use) before it reaches my Power settings low battery level(On Battery)limit setting of 20%.
It would appear that sitting at 100% for almost the entire 7 yrs of use
has little impact on killing this battery, less than 14% loss from design capacity seems more than reasonable/acceptable(after 7 yrs).
- I suspect that this specific Li-I battery(like other LiI) has some type
of voltage control that kicks in when the battery is 100% full to ensure charging stops, even if the charger remains connected.
i.e. Killing a battery by leaving plugged-in does not apply to every
single laptop battery.
Nick Cine <nickcine@is.invalid> wrote:
On 4 Nov 2024 11:22:04 GMT, Frank Slootweg wrote:
Thanks for the video for the HP 14 CD (hers is a DF but it may be similar).
His battery seems similar, only his is a "TF03XL" while hers is "TX03XL". >>>>> His HP model was "920070-855" while hers is "L11119-855" though.
But what matters is the process of how to replace it which her son needs. >>>>>
She uses the laptop every day in the same spot as if it's a desktop. >>>>> She never actually travels.
In that case, should I recommend she leave it on the charger?
Or should see leave it where it is but unplug the charger every day?
[To 'Nick':] I have a similar use, laptop is mostly - but not only -
used at home in the same spot.
After having ruined our share of batteries by leaving the laptops
plugged in, 'now' (for a few years already) I have it on a AC timer,
which switches on for long enough to last for about a day. Not very
convenient for a non-technical person (like your relative?), but it
works for me and prolongs the life of the battery.
I would take take out the bad one, and don't put another in.
If she never moves it from the desk, just keep it plugged in and don't >>>> worry about another battery.
That's indeed what I've done for my wife's laptop (which now is indeed >>> kind of a desktop), but that laptop still has a insert/remove type of
battery, not one which needs to open/'disassemble' the laptop, like with >>> Nick's relative's laptop.
Thanks for the automatic cycling idea. You'd think the laptop manufacturer >> would just stop charging the battery when the battery is sensed at full.
The laptop *does* "stop charging" when the battery is full. It
switches to a trickle charge which does no harm.
But the problem is, as I explained in my response to VanguardLH, that
the battery keeps *sitting* at 100% charge. That is what kills the
battery over time. I.e. the trickle charge isn't a problem, but the
battery staying at 100% charge *is*. If, as I also mentioned in my
response to VanguardLH, the maximum charge level was limited to say 80%,
the longterm damage would be much, much less than at 100%. That's why
lithium batteries are not fully charged when kept in storage ('shelf
life'). IIRC the recommended storage charge is some 40%.
Hers can't be the first HP laptop that was used mostly as a desktop would.
As I said in my response to VanguardLH, sadly HP's consumer grade (not 'business', etc.) laptops do not have a mechanism to limit maximum
charge to some 80% (as for example your Samsung smartphone has).
[...]
The replacement battery came with this screwdriver. Is it anything special? https://i.postimg.cc/Y2WwxFYx/HT03-XL-screwdriver.jpg
At the time of this reply, its approx. 8 hours later, AC Adapter unplugged(was 100% at time of last reply) with about 2-3 hours of actual use(two sleep occurences at a couple hours each)..that battery has
discharged as expected and Windows 11 battery icon on the Taskbar
indicates more than 2 hrs remaining(43%). Both BatteryInfoView and Powershell indicate similar(no change in Design Capacity) and 42.8% remaining(current/design).
I'll plug it in when it hits the 20% low limit or maybe wait until it
reaches the 10% 'On Battery' Power setting, then recharge and leave it plugged. It is used much like a desktop since a Surface and Pbone are all
I need for move-able, portable devices.
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