• My new-to-me renewed laptop is dead.

    From micky@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jan 26 03:59:58 2025
    My new-to-me renewed laptop is dead.

    I bought from Amazon a renwed Dell laptop about 4 yeears old. It came
    on Dec 12. I used it for about an hour and it was fine. the charger
    charged. I coudl dl and install Firefox. I could use an external mouse.
    A few other things worked.

    Then I got sick from something the doctor did to me on Dec. 11 and
    didn't have the strength to work on it until last tonight. The battery
    still had almost all its charge an dit started right up. I plugged in
    the ext. mouse and an ext keyboard. Then I wanted to go upstairs for a
    hub, to plug in external drive. I slept it, and notice that it woke up
    when I opened the lid, then the screen went dark again when I closed the
    lid, without touching any keys either time.

    Left the charger plugged in for 3 or 4 hours. The light on the included charger was on. There are no lights on the laptop to tell when it's
    charging or on, or when caps/num/scroll lock are on. When I came
    downstairs and plugged in the hub and tried to start it, it's totally
    dead. I unplugged all the usb things and it's still dead.

    I can get the model number tomorrow moring, but does what I've said give
    any ideas? And are Amazon refurbs guaranteed for 2 months? :-(

    The only thing I added to the mix today was the hub and the ext drive.
    The ext drive I've used before, including 2 days ago on the other pc.
    Could a bad hub do this much damage?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to micky on Sun Jan 26 05:52:22 2025
    On Sun, 1/26/2025 3:59 AM, micky wrote:
    My new-to-me renewed laptop is dead.

    I bought from Amazon a renwed Dell laptop about 4 yeears old. It came
    on Dec 12. I used it for about an hour and it was fine. the charger charged. I coudl dl and install Firefox. I could use an external mouse.
    A few other things worked.

    Then I got sick from something the doctor did to me on Dec. 11 and
    didn't have the strength to work on it until last tonight. The battery
    still had almost all its charge an dit started right up. I plugged in
    the ext. mouse and an ext keyboard. Then I wanted to go upstairs for a
    hub, to plug in external drive. I slept it, and notice that it woke up
    when I opened the lid, then the screen went dark again when I closed the
    lid, without touching any keys either time.

    Left the charger plugged in for 3 or 4 hours. The light on the included charger was on. There are no lights on the laptop to tell when it's
    charging or on, or when caps/num/scroll lock are on. When I came
    downstairs and plugged in the hub and tried to start it, it's totally
    dead. I unplugged all the usb things and it's still dead.

    I can get the model number tomorrow moring, but does what I've said give
    any ideas? And are Amazon refurbs guaranteed for 2 months? :-(

    The only thing I added to the mix today was the hub and the ext drive.
    The ext drive I've used before, including 2 days ago on the other pc.
    Could a bad hub do this much damage?


    Does the adapter look like the original adapter ?

    Or, do you suppose, some scumbag threw an adapter in
    the box that doesn't actually go with that laptop ?

    We had this discussion years ago. At first, I figured with
    switching converters, it wouldn't really matter what you
    fed a laptop. But as it turns out, the circuitry inside
    the laptop economizes and does not work any magic. The
    uncertainty on the voltage could be on the order of +/- 0.5V
    or so. In other words, as far as the engineer who designed
    the laptop is concerned, "use our adapter... or else".

    Someone was convinced they were going to follow the direction
    of some sales site, and use an adapter that "covers a large
    number of models". The voltage was only off by a little bit.
    The person posting was doing a victory laptop, when the laptop
    was charging and the bargain charger had been delivered and so on.

    But he wrote back about a month later to report the laptop
    was dead, and it would appear that perhaps the voltage difference
    was sufficient to overheat something inside.

    We can't really know from this altitude, what happened to it.
    It could be random mortality. But on the other hand, the
    nature of refurbs, how many jokers would return the laptop
    to the IT department including with the kit, the original
    wall adapter ? If it was coming off lease, the lease company would
    be lucky to just get the laptop.

    it could be, this isn't your fault, and it's just how the
    bits and pieces were assembled before shipment.

    If the machine is from a major vendor, the "parts store" of
    that vendor, would have a standard parts number in their
    listing for the laptop. You could examine the adapter and
    see if that part number is stamped on it.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Frank Slootweg@21:1/5 to micky on Sun Jan 26 15:34:31 2025
    micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
    My new-to-me renewed laptop is dead.

    I bought from Amazon a renwed Dell laptop about 4 yeears old. It came
    on Dec 12. I used it for about an hour and it was fine. the charger charged. I coudl dl and install Firefox. I could use an external mouse.
    A few other things worked.

    Then I got sick from something the doctor did to me on Dec. 11 and
    didn't have the strength to work on it until last tonight. The battery
    still had almost all its charge an dit started right up. I plugged in
    the ext. mouse and an ext keyboard. Then I wanted to go upstairs for a
    hub, to plug in external drive. I slept it, and notice that it woke up
    when I opened the lid, then the screen went dark again when I closed the
    lid, without touching any keys either time.

    Left the charger plugged in for 3 or 4 hours. The light on the included charger was on. There are no lights on the laptop to tell when it's
    charging or on, or when caps/num/scroll lock are on. When I came
    downstairs and plugged in the hub and tried to start it, it's totally
    dead. I unplugged all the usb things and it's still dead.

    Is the charger plug on the laptop side a USB-C plug or a 'old'-style
    barrel connector. If the latter, I have yet to see a DC barrel port on a laptop, which does not have a small LED next to the port.

    Same for LEDs on the keyboard. At minimum, there's a LED in/near the
    power button and probably several others in, or next to, some keys.

    So look for these LEDs, even if they are unlit. Normally they are just
    tiny, about 1mm, holes.

    If there are LEDs, but none of them are lit, and the light of the charger itself is on, I would suspect a bad cable/connection from the charger to
    the laptop or indeed a totally dead laptop.

    I can get the model number tomorrow moring, but does what I've said give
    any ideas? And are Amazon refurbs guaranteed for 2 months? :-(

    The only thing I added to the mix today was the hub and the ext drive.
    The ext drive I've used before, including 2 days ago on the other pc.
    Could a bad hub do this much damage?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From micky@21:1/5 to this@ddress.is.invalid on Sun Jan 26 11:11:33 2025
    In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on 26 Jan 2025 15:34:31 GMT, Frank Slootweg <this@ddress.is.invalid> wrote:

    micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
    My new-to-me renewed laptop is dead.

    I bought from Amazon a renwed Dell laptop about 4 yeears old. It came
    on Dec 12. I used it for about an hour and it was fine. the charger
    charged. I coudl dl and install Firefox. I could use an external mouse.
    A few other things worked.

    Then I got sick from something the doctor did to me on Dec. 11 and
    didn't have the strength to work on it until last tonight. The battery
    still had almost all its charge an dit started right up. I plugged in
    the ext. mouse and an ext keyboard. Then I wanted to go upstairs for a
    hub, to plug in external drive. I slept it, and notice that it woke up
    when I opened the lid, then the screen went dark again when I closed the
    lid, without touching any keys either time.

    Left the charger plugged in for 3 or 4 hours. The light on the included
    charger was on. There are no lights on the laptop to tell when it's
    charging or on, or when caps/num/scroll lock are on. When I came
    downstairs and plugged in the hub and tried to start it, it's totally
    dead. I unplugged all the usb things and it's still dead.

    Is the charger plug on the laptop side a USB-C plug or a 'old'-style
    barrel connector. If the latter, I have yet to see a DC barrel port on a >laptop, which does not have a small LED next to the port.

    Barrel connector. I'll look again.

    Same for LEDs on the keyboard. At minimum, there's a LED in/near the
    power button and probably several others in, or next to, some keys.

    So look for these LEDs, even if they are unlit. Normally they are just
    tiny, about 1mm, holes.

    I looked when it was running but I'll look again.

    If there are LEDs, but none of them are lit, and the light of the charger
    itself is on, I would suspect a bad cable/connection from the charger to
    the laptop or indeed a totally dead laptop.

    It's supposed to be 19.5 volts but the highest number I could get from
    my VOM was 17v, and that quickly dropped, gradually or as low as 5! Of
    course it was hard to hold the probe to the center pin, and i'm not
    building a jig just for this. I'll see what the vendor says.

    I have a universal adapter somewhere but the tips are somewhere else.
    Dang. If I clean the whole spare bedroom, I might find one of those two things.

    I can get the model number tomorrow moring, but does what I've said give
    any ideas? And are Amazon refurbs guaranteed for 2 months? :-(

    Actually 3 months, at least this one is, so I'm in good shape. I have
    until March 12, 3 months to the day from when it was delivered.

    The only thing I added to the mix today was the hub and the ext drive.
    The ext drive I've used before, including 2 days ago on the other pc.
    Could a bad hub do this much damage?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From micky@21:1/5 to nospam@needed.invalid on Sun Jan 26 11:03:20 2025
    In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Sun, 26 Jan 2025 05:52:22 -0500, Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

    On Sun, 1/26/2025 3:59 AM, micky wrote:
    My new-to-me renewed laptop is dead.

    I bought from Amazon a renwed Dell laptop about 4 yeears old. It came
    on Dec 12. I used it for about an hour and it was fine. the charger
    charged. I coudl dl and install Firefox. I could use an external mouse.
    A few other things worked.

    Then I got sick from something the doctor did to me on Dec. 11 and
    didn't have the strength to work on it until last tonight. The battery
    still had almost all its charge an dit started right up. I plugged in
    the ext. mouse and an ext keyboard. Then I wanted to go upstairs for a
    hub, to plug in external drive. I slept it, and notice that it woke up
    when I opened the lid, then the screen went dark again when I closed the
    lid, without touching any keys either time.

    Left the charger plugged in for 3 or 4 hours. The light on the included
    charger was on. There are no lights on the laptop to tell when it's
    charging or on, or when caps/num/scroll lock are on. When I came
    downstairs and plugged in the hub and tried to start it, it's totally
    dead. I unplugged all the usb things and it's still dead.

    I can get the model number tomorrow moring, but does what I've said give
    any ideas? And are Amazon refurbs guaranteed for 2 months? :-(

    The only thing I added to the mix today was the hub and the ext drive.
    The ext drive I've used before, including 2 days ago on the other pc.
    Could a bad hub do this much damage?


    Does the adapter look like the original adapter ?

    Well, the adapter is marked:

    Dell Inc. [2 japanese characters]
    AC/DC ADAPTER (many japanese characters)

    PA-12 Family DELL P/N 1XRN1

    REF. NO;ADP-65TH F
    MODEL japch DA65NM111-00
    INPUT 100-240V ~1.6A 50-60HZ LPS
    OUTPUT 19.5V 3.34A (symbol for center positive)

    and then in the corner with a qr code CN-01XRN1-48661-
    26T-6k4D-A01
    Made in China
    DP/N 01XRN1

    Shouldn't this be good enough?

    --- How does one get the wattage? by multiplying the *output* volts by
    amps?? For this one that gives 65 watts, but even if it were zero, the
    lid was closed and the screen off all that time that I was upstairs.

    I found it strange that opening the lid and doing no more than that lit
    up the screen, but that might be a recent feature??

    Also, I left the adapater plugged in for the last 6 weeks, thinking I
    could work on the computer during that time, but I couldn't. I leave
    other adapters plugged in for 6 months at a time.

    With a meter, the ps goes no higher than 17v; and then it drops, but
    perhaps that is just a problem with holding the probe on to the little
    pin inside the plug. What do you think.

    Aha, the entry in my Amazon Orders for the item says "Return or replace
    items: Eligible through March 12, 2025 ", so I guess I'm in good shape,
    but I still want to complain about the right thing.

    BTW, the laptop looks spotless, hard to believe anyone has ever used it.
    Is that because the re
  • From Frank Slootweg@21:1/5 to micky on Sun Jan 26 16:19:42 2025
    micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
    [...]

    I found it strange that opening the lid and doing no more than that lit
    up the screen, but that might be a recent feature??

    It's normal for a laptop to wake up and light the screen when the lid
    is opened.

    If it has a password for login, the screen normally goes blank again
    rather quickly, if you don't press a key or move the 'mouse' to get a
    login prompt.

    BTW, if you still have the adapter for your old laptop and if that has
    the same DC voltage, amperage, polarity and barrel connector, you could
    try that on the new laptop or vice versa.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Frank Slootweg@21:1/5 to micky on Sun Jan 26 16:25:56 2025
    micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
    [...]

    If there are LEDs, but none of them are lit, and the light of the charger
    itself is on, I would suspect a bad cable/connection from the charger to >the laptop or indeed a totally dead laptop.

    It's supposed to be 19.5 volts but the highest number I could get from
    my VOM was 17v, and that quickly dropped, gradually or as low as 5! Of course it was hard to hold the probe to the center pin, and i'm not
    building a jig just for this. I'll see what the vendor says.

    This is probably one for Paul (my electronics knowledge is limited and slipping), but AFAIK, a laptop adapter will not supply the specified
    voltage unless you draw some current from it, which your meter doesn't
    do (well, only very little, not enough).

    [...]

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Brian Gregory@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jan 26 17:06:03 2025
    Have you done the usual holding the on button for 15 seconds thing to
    force a complete power down?

    I generally totally disable sleep, hibernate and maybe also screen
    savers on laptops. If they don't just immediately work perfectly it's
    usually a nightmare trying to work out what's wrong with them. Often
    laptops that could handle them on, say, Windows 7 completely fail with,
    say, Windows 10.

    --
    Brian Gregory (in England).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Mike Easter@21:1/5 to micky on Sun Jan 26 11:07:49 2025
    micky wrote:
    BTW, the laptop looks spotless, hard to believe anyone has ever used it.
    Is that because the refurbishers are fantastic at cleaning them, or
    maybe it was hardly used??

    I have been very fortunate in the 3 refurbs I've bought, 2 desktops and
    1 laptop. The two desktops were like you describe, spotless,
    shrinkwrapped, 'seemingly' brand new unused. The one laptop bought as a
    refurb at a storefront was also extremely clean, but testing showed a
    high cpu temp and I took it back to the store and got a different same
    refurb which was also excellent. Neither of the laptops were quite as 'pristine' as the two desktops but in excellent condition.

    The same storefront I bought the laptop where I shopped a lot while it
    was still in business salespeople strongly advised me against buying
    refurbs (incl from their place) because they said they were always
    'dogs', beat-up and possibly defective. Not for me.

    The desktops were from WalMart, ordered online, picked up at the store
    after delivered there, both from the same refurb outfit; the laptop and storefront were Fry's which is prone to 'repackaging' and labeling the repackaging as such, sometimes the repackages are cheaper than 'never unpackaged' on the same shelf and sometimes not. The Fry's refurb was
    not the same outfit as for the 2 desktops.

    Both Fry's and WalMart are extremely easy about return for credit or
    exchange, and when handled at the storefront there are no 'how to handle
    the shipping problem' issues.

    I would love it if such as an Amazon purchase of a refurb would identify
    the refurb outfit; some are very good.

    --
    Mike Easter

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Frank Slootweg on Sun Jan 26 16:17:33 2025
    On Sun, 1/26/2025 11:25 AM, Frank Slootweg wrote:
    micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
    [...]

    If there are LEDs, but none of them are lit, and the light of the charger >>> itself is on, I would suspect a bad cable/connection from the charger to >>> the laptop or indeed a totally dead laptop.

    It's supposed to be 19.5 volts but the highest number I could get from
    my VOM was 17v, and that quickly dropped, gradually or as low as 5! Of
    course it was hard to hold the probe to the center pin, and i'm not
    building a jig just for this. I'll see what the vendor says.

    This is probably one for Paul (my electronics knowledge is limited and slipping), but AFAIK, a laptop adapter will not supply the specified
    voltage unless you draw some current from it, which your meter doesn't
    do (well, only very little, not enough).

    [...]


    it should be fine, no load. You would get 19.5V.
    If you shorted it, it would give 0 and there would
    be a spark (capacitor discharge).

    The results Micky is getting, suggest the adapter
    is not all that happy.

    However, there is one other possibility. Some adapters
    actually have three electrical contact points, and one
    of them is an "enable". If the adapter is that type, then
    the contact with the actual power on it, won't be enabled
    while the plug is sitting in air.

    I don't know the details of this, I was only told
    of the possibility of that being present. Perhaps both
    the jack and the barrel plug are larger than normal
    for those. My laptop is only two contacts, and the
    center contact, there is no room for any third option.

    This example is a third build option. Some laptops
    have available to them, two power levels for the adapter.
    The third contact on the barrel, is a serial declaration
    ROM. These are used on gamer laptops, to determine what
    got plugged in. The laptop then avoids overloading the
    lower-power adapter, if it is discovered to be present.

    https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/16047/3-contact-laptop-power-supply

    Using a calibrated eyeball, you can examine both parts
    involved, to determine whether it's just a plain two contact
    case, or is one of the more complicated ones. It is likely
    to take a "wide" barrel, to do a complicated one.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From micky@21:1/5 to Gregory on Mon Jan 27 22:55:51 2025
    win11 added because this is really a win11 topic after all. And partly
    win10. "After one hour of working fine, new to me refurbished laptop is
    dead and nothing wakes it up."

    In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Sun, 26 Jan 2025 17:06:03 +0000, Brian
    Gregory <void-invalid-dead-dontuse@email.invalid> wrote:

    Have you done the usual holding the on button for 15 seconds thing to
    force a complete power down?

    Well, no, because I thought it *was* off. The lights I had not noticed,
    the one on the power key, the one in front that means it's charging, and
    the lighted keyboard were all off. No lights were on and the screen was totally dark.

    But after trying a few more things this morning (well, really the same
    things, unplugging and plugging in the charger and pushing Power), I
    remembered what you said above and by golly, that worked. Maybe I
    pressed Power again and the first thing I noticed is the keyboard lit
    up. 7 points for you. Heck, 500 points. My next step was to call the renewer!, couldn't call him on the weekend, and now I don't have to do
    that.

    Where did you learn that this could work in this situation?

    AFAICT, it had checked for windows updates and of course there were some becuase I hadn't turned it on for 6 weeks, and it had only been on an
    hour 6 weeks ago. Saturday night was the last time it checked for
    updates, but this morning was when they were installed. A lot of them.

    I haven't figured out yet how to enable Hibernate, and when I tried
    Sleep, it blinked and woke up again each time, so I no longer remember
    if I just closd the lid or if I tried to turn it off (I think I closed
    the lid), but somehow it got stopped in the middle of windows update.

    I generally totally disable sleep, hibernate and maybe also screen
    savers on laptops. If they don't just immediately work perfectly it's
    usually a nightmare trying to work out what's wrong with them. Often

    I guess I got a sample of that.

    And it seemed to do it again later today, Monday -- had to hold the
    power button down until it turned off -- but since then it's behaved
    itself.

    laptops that could handle them on, say, Windows 7 completely fail with,
    say, Windows 10.

    I've had no trouble with any of themm and I use them "all the time".
    Except that even though I set the mice to not wake the pc up from sleep, sometimes they still do when I accidentally bump one of the mice on my
    desk, but that's small potatoes compare to your complaint. This new
    win11 is not off to a good start with the confusion it gave me this
    weekend, and it will take several days before I can enable Hibernate and
    test Sleep, but if I have problems I plan to report back.

    You can redeem your points at the M&H Green Stamps Redemption Center in Baltimore. M-F 9 to 5:30 ET. I'll send address later. Unfortunately,
    you must redeem them in person, but we have some very nice prizes. Do
    you need a FAX machine?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to micky on Mon Jan 27 23:42:28 2025
    XPost: alt.comp.os.windows-11

    On Mon, 1/27/2025 10:55 PM, micky wrote:

    alt.comp.os.windows-11 added, because... micky

    win11 added because this is really a win11 topic after all. And partly
    win10. "After one hour of working fine, new to me refurbished laptop is
    dead and nothing wakes it up."

    In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Sun, 26 Jan 2025 17:06:03 +0000, Brian
    Gregory <void-invalid-dead-dontuse@email.invalid> wrote:

    Have you done the usual holding the on button for 15 seconds thing to
    force a complete power down?

    Well, no, because I thought it *was* off. The lights I had not noticed,
    the one on the power key, the one in front that means it's charging, and
    the lighted keyboard were all off. No lights were on and the screen was totally dark.

    But after trying a few more things this morning (well, really the same things, unplugging and plugging in the charger and pushing Power), I remembered what you said above and by golly, that worked. Maybe I
    pressed Power again and the first thing I noticed is the keyboard lit
    up. 7 points for you. Heck, 500 points. My next step was to call the renewer!, couldn't call him on the weekend, and now I don't have to do
    that.

    Where did you learn that this could work in this situation?

    AFAICT, it had checked for windows updates and of course there were some becuase I hadn't turned it on for 6 weeks, and it had only been on an
    hour 6 weeks ago. Saturday night was the last time it checked for
    updates, but this morning was when they were installed. A lot of them.

    I haven't figured out yet how to enable Hibernate, and when I tried
    Sleep, it blinked and woke up again each time, so I no longer remember
    if I just closd the lid or if I tried to turn it off (I think I closed
    the lid), but somehow it got stopped in the middle of windows update.

    I generally totally disable sleep, hibernate and maybe also screen
    savers on laptops. If they don't just immediately work perfectly it's
    usually a nightmare trying to work out what's wrong with them. Often

    I guess I got a sample of that.

    And it seemed to do it again later today, Monday -- had to hold the
    power button down until it turned off -- but since then it's behaved
    itself.

    laptops that could handle them on, say, Windows 7 completely fail with,
    say, Windows 10.

    I've had no trouble with any of themm and I use them "all the time".
    Except that even though I set the mice to not wake the pc up from sleep, sometimes they still do when I accidentally bump one of the mice on my
    desk, but that's small potatoes compare to your complaint. This new
    win11 is not off to a good start with the confusion it gave me this
    weekend, and it will take several days before I can enable Hibernate and
    test Sleep, but if I have problems I plan to report back.

    You can redeem your points at the M&H Green Stamps Redemption Center in Baltimore. M-F 9 to 5:30 ET. I'll send address later. Unfortunately,
    you must redeem them in person, but we have some very nice prizes. Do
    you need a FAX machine?


    But don't your symptoms point to a lack of ACPI support at the current time ?

    https://www.windowscentral.com/software-apps/windows-11/how-to-check-your-computers-supported-power-features-on-windows-11

    powercfg /availablesleepstates

    To hibernate, you need a hiberfile file. In a Command
    Prompt window (cmd.exe), you can set the current directory to C:\

    C:

    cd \

    dir /ah # Now checking the root of C: drive.

    # These would be the kind of files to expect, as hidden ones of note.

    swapfile.sys
    pagefile.sys
    hiberfil.sys <=== you hibernate in here, and need one to hibernate

    Mon, 01/27/2025 06:52 PM 1,073,741,824 pagefile.sys <=== This is used for swapping, but is hardly used.
    Mon, 01/27/2025 06:52 PM 16,777,216 swapfile.sys <=== This one is specifically for Metro Apps.
    Mon, 01/27/2025 06:52 PM 68,719,476,736 hiberfil.sys <=== I don't have one of these, and made this entry up.
    You can see from the size of it, why I got rid of it, on an SSD.
    Your laptop should have one, as part of power saving in S4 state.
    There is a story behind the size of this file, and the possible values.
    *******

    There s a "Sleep" tick box and a "Hibernate" tick box here. This is a Win10 picture.

    https://media.geeksforgeeks.org/wp-content/uploads/20220625001134/changesettings.jpg

    If you didn't have a hiberfil.sys, then this might turn one on.
    This won't work if you're out of space on C: .

    (Admin window)

    powercfg /h on

    Then try the ticky boxes.

    ( Picture from: https://www.geeksforgeeks.org/how-to-enable-hibernate-mode-on-windows-10/ )

    It's a lot easier to turn on these features now, than in WinXP,
    where we were using "dumppo.exe" utility from MSFT.

    Another reason for failure, is on older machines, there is a
    BIOS control that enables S3 sleep. And sometimes that power management
    setting is not enabled, and needs to be turned on. In WinXP, you
    needed to use dumppo, to prepare the OS to sleep. Whereas now
    some of that is automated with the tick boxes. As long as the
    "dining requirements" are met and the prerequisites are there,
    it stands a chance of working.

    On newer machines, that setting is removed entirely, and the
    machine is basically "ACPI compliant" and S1&S3 is always assumed
    to be ON when dealing with those machines.

    For laptops with defective ACPI tables, all bets are off, as
    we don't know what damage is present there, and then some other
    "powercfg.exe" commands can be used to collect a hint of the trouble.
    This amounts to bad BIOS/UEFI design (bad coding) in a sense. And the companies that don't know how to design an ACPI table, you can never ever
    expect them to fix these problems. Cluelessness is their middle name.
    And a very limited set of laptops, have a Coreboot to replace the
    defective materials. it is possible for a home user to improve
    the situation, but not many have the skill to do it. This is well past
    my pay scale. Don't understand the coding language used for this.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 28 01:13:03 2025
    XPost: alt.comp.os.windows-11

    On Mon, 1/27/2025 11:42 PM, Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 1/27/2025 10:55 PM, micky wrote:

    alt.comp.os.windows-11 added, because... micky

    win11 added because this is really a win11 topic after all. And partly
    win10. "After one hour of working fine, new to me refurbished laptop is
    dead and nothing wakes it up."

    In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Sun, 26 Jan 2025 17:06:03 +0000, Brian
    Gregory <void-invalid-dead-dontuse@email.invalid> wrote:

    Have you done the usual holding the on button for 15 seconds thing to
    force a complete power down?

    Well, no, because I thought it *was* off. The lights I had not noticed,
    the one on the power key, the one in front that means it's charging, and
    the lighted keyboard were all off. No lights were on and the screen was
    totally dark.

    But after trying a few more things this morning (well, really the same
    things, unplugging and plugging in the charger and pushing Power), I
    remembered what you said above and by golly, that worked. Maybe I
    pressed Power again and the first thing I noticed is the keyboard lit
    up. 7 points for you. Heck, 500 points. My next step was to call the
    renewer!, couldn't call him on the weekend, and now I don't have to do
    that.

    Where did you learn that this could work in this situation?

    AFAICT, it had checked for windows updates and of course there were some
    becuase I hadn't turned it on for 6 weeks, and it had only been on an
    hour 6 weeks ago. Saturday night was the last time it checked for
    updates, but this morning was when they were installed. A lot of them.

    I haven't figured out yet how to enable Hibernate, and when I tried
    Sleep, it blinked and woke up again each time, so I no longer remember
    if I just closd the lid or if I tried to turn it off (I think I closed
    the lid), but somehow it got stopped in the middle of windows update.

    I generally totally disable sleep, hibernate and maybe also screen
    savers on laptops. If they don't just immediately work perfectly it's
    usually a nightmare trying to work out what's wrong with them. Often

    I guess I got a sample of that.

    And it seemed to do it again later today, Monday -- had to hold the
    power button down until it turned off -- but since then it's behaved
    itself.

    laptops that could handle them on, say, Windows 7 completely fail with,
    say, Windows 10.

    I've had no trouble with any of themm and I use them "all the time".
    Except that even though I set the mice to not wake the pc up from sleep,
    sometimes they still do when I accidentally bump one of the mice on my
    desk, but that's small potatoes compare to your complaint. This new
    win11 is not off to a good start with the confusion it gave me this
    weekend, and it will take several days before I can enable Hibernate and
    test Sleep, but if I have problems I plan to report back.

    You can redeem your points at the M&H Green Stamps Redemption Center in
    Baltimore. M-F 9 to 5:30 ET. I'll send address later. Unfortunately,
    you must redeem them in person, but we have some very nice prizes. Do
    you need a FAX machine?


    But don't your symptoms point to a lack of ACPI support at the current time ?

    https://www.windowscentral.com/software-apps/windows-11/how-to-check-your-computers-supported-power-features-on-windows-11

    powercfg /availablesleepstates

    ...
    Before someone complains the answer wasn't full enough, here is Part 2.

    Originally, only some Surface products experimentally had this alternate
    ACPI implementation. Apparently, other OEMs have adopted it. I can find
    web pages touting instructions for removing it and going back to the
    old way, but messing with ACPI and sleep states, is for people
    who need a "fulltime hobby". There are on the order of 200 registry settings for materials like this, if you want to imagine how much damage you can do.

    "Modern Standby" laptop:

    https://www.asus.com/ca-en/support/faq/1035447/

    Microsoft Windows [Version 10.0.22631.3527]
    (c) Microsoft Corporation 2ll rights reserved.

    C:\Users\ASUS_> powercfg /a
    The following sleep states are available on this
    Standby (SO Low Power Idle) Network Connected <=== used for sleep (as this state slides from S0..S3 on its own)
    Hibernate <=== S4 Hibernate available (missing from Asus article menu items)
    Fast Startup

    The following sleep states are not available on this system:
    Standby (S1)
    The system firmware does not support this standby state.
    This standby state is disabled when SO low power idle is supported.

    Standby (S2)
    The system firmware does not support this standby state.
    This standby state is disabled when SO low power idle is supported.

    Standby (S3)
    This standby state is disabled when SO low power idle is supported.

    Hybrid Sleep
    Standby (S3) is not available.

    *******

    Dealing with a messed-about system.
    Some recipe followed, to screw it up, now being put back (in Modern Standby). Now, we're into permanent hobby material. Back up your drive before
    going along in this hand basket.

    https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/how-do-i-re-enable-my-modern-standby-sleep-mode-s0/1d583cbb-c8d8-4efb-b261-42cc4d1915f9

    *******

    The person here, might not have had a hiberfil.sys file (it's unlikely it is too small,
    usually a size of 0 would be too small :-) ). In any case, this is not a
    user friendly situation, where a device sits in Modern Standby, runs down the battery, and at 2% battery, it finally tries to hibernate (fails for this user, and he is dumped into a dirty shutdown instead). This would lead to a lot of inconvenient charging sessions, when all the user wanted to do is Hibernate
    on demand.

    https://superuser.com/questions/1230454/windows-shutting-down-rather-than-hibernating-when-battery-level-critical

    What a user needs, is an actual "Hibernate" tick box, and it is not clear
    that the Modern Standby machine has such a tick box. Even though the
    powercfg query says hibernation is supported from an S4 perspective (but without the response indicating a hiberfil.sys is present).

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From micky@21:1/5 to nospam@needed.invalid on Tue Jan 28 10:24:57 2025
    In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Sun, 26 Jan 2025 16:17:33 -0500, Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

    On Sun, 1/26/2025 11:25 AM, Frank Slootweg wrote:
    micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
    [...]

    If there are LEDs, but none of them are lit, and the light of the charger >>>> itself is on, I would suspect a bad cable/connection from the charger to >>>> the laptop or indeed a totally dead laptop.

    It's supposed to be 19.5 volts but the highest number I could get from
    my VOM was 17v, and that quickly dropped, gradually or as low as 5! Of
    course it was hard to hold the probe to the center pin, and i'm not
    building a jig just for this. I'll see what the vendor says.

    This is probably one for Paul (my electronics knowledge is limited and
    slipping), but AFAIK, a laptop adapter will not supply the specified
    voltage unless you draw some current from it, which your meter doesn't
    do (well, only very little, not enough).

    Hmmm. I've heard of that but I don't remember with what device.

    [...]


    it should be fine, no load. You would get 19.5V.
    If you shorted it, it would give 0 and there would
    be a spark (capacitor discharge).

    The results Micky is getting, suggest the adapter
    is not all that happy.

    However, there is one other possibility. Some adapters
    actually have three electrical contact points, and one

    No, simple barrel plug. A Dell.

    I have, but can't find, a universal adapter with 3 prong tips so that
    the adapter knows what voltage to put out, but the actual plug on the
    end of the tip is 2-contact.

    of them is an "enable". If the adapter is that type, then
    the contact with the actual power on it, won't be enabled
    while the plug is sitting in air.

    I don't know the details of this, I was only told
    of the possibility of that being present. Perhaps both
    the jack and the barrel plug are larger than normal
    for those. My laptop is only two contacts, and the
    center contact, there is no room for any third option.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to micky on Tue Jan 28 16:15:20 2025
    On Tue, 1/28/2025 10:24 AM, micky wrote:
    In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on Sun, 26 Jan 2025 16:17:33 -0500, Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

    On Sun, 1/26/2025 11:25 AM, Frank Slootweg wrote:
    micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
    [...]

    If there are LEDs, but none of them are lit, and the light of the charger
    itself is on, I would suspect a bad cable/connection from the charger to >>>>> the laptop or indeed a totally dead laptop.

    It's supposed to be 19.5 volts but the highest number I could get from >>>> my VOM was 17v, and that quickly dropped, gradually or as low as 5! Of >>>> course it was hard to hold the probe to the center pin, and i'm not
    building a jig just for this. I'll see what the vendor says.

    This is probably one for Paul (my electronics knowledge is limited and >>> slipping), but AFAIK, a laptop adapter will not supply the specified
    voltage unless you draw some current from it, which your meter doesn't
    do (well, only very little, not enough).

    Hmmm. I've heard of that but I don't remember with what device.

    [...]


    it should be fine, no load. You would get 19.5V.
    If you shorted it, it would give 0 and there would
    be a spark (capacitor discharge).

    The results Micky is getting, suggest the adapter
    is not all that happy.

    However, there is one other possibility. Some adapters
    actually have three electrical contact points, and one

    No, simple barrel plug. A Dell.

    I have, but can't find, a universal adapter with 3 prong tips so that
    the adapter knows what voltage to put out, but the actual plug on the
    end of the tip is 2-contact.

    of them is an "enable". If the adapter is that type, then
    the contact with the actual power on it, won't be enabled
    while the plug is sitting in air.

    I don't know the details of this, I was only told
    of the possibility of that being present. Perhaps both
    the jack and the barrel plug are larger than normal
    for those. My laptop is only two contacts, and the
    center contact, there is no room for any third option.

    If it is a simple adapter it should have a stable voltage.
    Barring any temporary short circuits you might apply.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul in Houston TX@21:1/5 to micky on Tue Jan 28 18:44:44 2025
    micky wrote:
    My new-to-me renewed laptop is dead.

    Per a later post you said that you checked the adaptor voltage.
    According to the web, the center pin is a digital verification.
    The inside of the barrel is +.
    The outside of the barrel is -.
    Shorting the digital pin to the inside of the barrel may destroy the
    power supply.
    (This is similar to my Lenovo's pinout.)

    https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/442503/what-is-the-polarity-of-this-barrel-plug-with-a-double-circle

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From micky@21:1/5 to this@ddress.is.invalid on Wed Apr 2 18:21:38 2025
    In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on 26 Jan 2025 16:25:56 GMT, Frank Slootweg <this@ddress.is.invalid> wrote:

    micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
    [...]

    If there are LEDs, but none of them are lit, and the light of the charger >> >itself is on, I would suspect a bad cable/connection from the charger to
    the laptop or indeed a totally dead laptop.

    It's supposed to be 19.5 volts but the highest number I could get from
    my VOM was 17v, and that quickly dropped, gradually or as low as 5! Of
    course it was hard to hold the probe to the center pin, and i'm not
    building a jig just for this. I'll see what the vendor says.

    This is probably one for Paul (my electronics knowledge is limited and
    slipping), but AFAIK, a laptop adapter will not supply the specified
    voltage unless you draw some current from it, which your meter doesn't
    do (well, only very little, not enough).

    Good to know. The fact that anyting was coming out probably means it's working. But your prior post about touching a key may be even more
    help.
    [...]

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From micky@21:1/5 to this@ddress.is.invalid on Wed Apr 2 18:22:56 2025
    In alt.comp.os.windows-10, on 26 Jan 2025 16:19:42 GMT, Frank Slootweg <this@ddress.is.invalid> wrote:

    micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
    [...]

    I found it strange that opening the lid and doing no more than that lit
    up the screen, but that might be a recent feature??

    It's normal for a laptop to wake up and light the screen when the lid
    is opened.

    If it has a password for login, the screen normally goes blank again
    rather quickly, if you don't press a key or move the 'mouse' to get a
    login prompt.

    Oooo. that could be something important I didn't do .

    BTW, if you still have the adapter for your old laptop and if that has
    the same DC voltage, amperage, polarity and barrel connector, you could
    try that on the new laptop or vice versa.

    Different connector. Somehwere I have a universal adapter where the tip
    tells the box what voltage to make, but I've mislaid it and also
    separately, the tips. [Found them!] If the device were not guaranteed
    for 3 months, I'd be hunting harder for it. I didn't pay much attention
    to the guarantee because things usually work .

    Sorry for the delay. The problem went away.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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