In messing with this marine engine I've noted the fuel line from the
pump to the first carburetor (feeding all three from there) is nearly impossible to route without kinking or flattening the line and
restricting fuel flow. It may not be an issue, but I'd like to
eliminate it as a possible cause of problems. I think the original was likely a preformed hose with an expensive OEM part number.
I debated maybe digging out my double flaring tool, and bending a steel
fuel line to go in its place with just a short run of rubber line at
each end, but I don't think there is enough room to bend a steel fuel
line to fit without kinking. My bending die that size has a radius to
large for the job, so I would need to make one just to try. I've used
v-belt sheaves in the past as a make shift bending die, but I don't have anything small enough for this. No matter what you use if you go for to small of a radius it will either kink or split.
Then I ran across fuel line springs. Have any of you guys ever used a
fuel line spring for an application like this to keep the line round and open? Either internal or external?
In messing with this marine engine I've noted the fuel line from the
pump to the first carburetor (feeding all three from there) is nearly impossible to route without kinking or flattening the line and
restricting fuel flow. It may not be an issue, but I'd like to
eliminate it as a possible cause of problems. I think the original was likely a preformed hose with an expensive OEM part number.
I debated maybe digging out my double flaring tool, and bending a steel
fuel line to go in its place with just a short run of rubber line at
each end, but I don't think there is enough room to bend a steel fuel
line to fit without kinking. My bending die that size has a radius to
large for the job, so I would need to make one just to try. I've used v-belt sheaves in the past as a make shift bending die, but I don't have anything small enough for this. No matter what you use if you go for to small of a radius it will either kink or split.
Then I ran across fuel line springs. Have any of you guys ever used a
fuel line spring for an application like this to keep the line round and open? Either internal or external?
In messing with this marine engine I've noted the fuel line from the
pump to the first carburetor (feeding all three from there) is nearly impossible to route without kinking or flattening the line and
restricting fuel flow. It may not be an issue, but I'd like to
eliminate it as a possible cause of problems. I think the original was likely a preformed hose with an expensive OEM part number.
I debated maybe digging out my double flaring tool, and bending a steel
fuel line to go in its place with just a short run of rubber line at
each end, but I don't think there is enough room to bend a steel fuel
line to fit without kinking. My bending die that size has a radius to
large for the job, so I would need to make one just to try. I've used v-belt sheaves in the past as a make shift bending die, but I don't have anything small enough for this. No matter what you use if you go for to small of a radius it will either kink or split.
Then I ran across fuel line springs. Have any of you guys ever used a
fuel line spring for an application like this to keep the line round and open? Either internal or external?
You might try NiCopp tubing.
On Sun, 23 Apr 2023 08:16:42 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
You might try NiCopp tubing.
I've used it a couple times. Was amazed by how easy it bent by
hand (strong fingers help) and not kink. Even had to redo a couple spots several times...
It's not that expensive and can be found at most auto part stores
around here.
https://www.agscompany.com/collections/coils-rolls/material_nicopp
How soft is it? Can I slide a rubber hose over a double flare (not
finished) and seal with a hose clamp or will the tube distort and leak?
On Sun, 23 Apr 2023 08:16:42 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
You might try NiCopp tubing.
I've used it a couple times. Was amazed by how easy it bent by
hand (strong fingers help) and not kink. Even had to redo a couple spots several times...
It's not that expensive and can be found at most auto part stores
around here.
https://www.agscompany.com/collections/coils-rolls/material_nicopp
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u23of5$3t19h$1@dont-email.me...
On 4/23/2023 6:04 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sun, 23 Apr 2023 08:16:42 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
You might try NiCopp tubing.
I've used it a couple times. Was amazed by how easy it bent by
hand (strong fingers help) and not kink. Even had to redo a couple spots
several times...
It's not that expensive and can be found at most auto part stores
around here.
https://www.agscompany.com/collections/coils-rolls/material_nicopp
How soft is it? Can I slide a rubber hose over a double flare (not finished) and seal with a hose clamp or will the tube distort and leak?
I can't really change the fittings on the carbs as near as I can tell.
They appear to have been cast in place.
-----------------
NiCopp is noticeably but not greatly easier to bend than the same size
steel brake line. It's considerably stiffer than copper, and suited to
brake line pressure which copper isn't. As Leon mentioned bending it
(3/16") does stress the fingers, I used the pliers-like tool for better control.
What is break line pressure?
I did some research a while back on pressure rating for soft copper tube
in regards to R410A refrigeration tubing and found that the appropriate
size tube for liquid supply and return gas were adequate. Even in full
size (5 ton) systems. In mini splits its common and often is terminated
with single flair fittings. (different angle than automotive)
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u23of5$3t19h$1@dont-email.me...
On 4/23/2023 6:04 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sun, 23 Apr 2023 08:16:42 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
You might try NiCopp tubing.
I've used it a couple times. Was amazed by how easy it bent by
hand (strong fingers help) and not kink. Even had to redo a couple spots
several times...
It's not that expensive and can be found at most auto part stores
around here.
https://www.agscompany.com/collections/coils-rolls/material_nicopp
How soft is it? Can I slide a rubber hose over a double flare (not finished) and seal with a hose clamp or will the tube distort and leak?
I can't really change the fittings on the carbs as near as I can tell.
They appear to have been cast in place.
-----------------
NiCopp is noticeably but not greatly easier to bend than the same size
steel brake line. It's considerably stiffer than copper, and suited to
brake line pressure which copper isn't. As Leon mentioned bending it
(3/16") does stress the fingers, I used the pliers-like tool for
better control.
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