I'm looking for some kind of lubricant that doesn't get tacky
over time. The application is hand-cranked windows in an old car.
I think the tracks are the major problem, as pulling up on the
window while turning the crank eases the effort dramatically.
The machine gets driven only a few times per year and the windows
are _always_ very stiff. If I exercise them a bit, they free up.
Aerosol spray is probably the easiest thing to apply, but I'm
willing to consider liquid or paste if it'll help.
Thanks for reading, and any ideas!
bob prohaska
On Sat, 15 Jul 2023 18:50:38 -0000 (UTC)How about Super Lube silicone synthetic grease from Synco??
bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net> wrote:
I'm looking for some kind of lubricant that doesn't get tacky
over time. The application is hand-cranked windows in an old car.
I think the tracks are the major problem, as pulling up on the
window while turning the crank eases the effort dramatically.
The machine gets driven only a few times per year and the windows
are _always_ very stiff. If I exercise them a bit, they free up.
Aerosol spray is probably the easiest thing to apply, but I'm
willing to consider liquid or paste if it'll help.
Thanks for reading, and any ideas!
bob prohaska
Sounds like "magic grease" to my ears. Will be curious to read any
answers ;-)
I've had some luck with Dri-Slide type lubes. But they really don't
function the same as grease so have limited use.
https://www.drislide.com
Something I would consider but have never gotten around to trying for
this is the special Lubriplate grease for screw type garage door
openers.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=lubriplate+garage+door+grease
Once made the mistake of using regular grease for a sticky screw type
opener. After tearing it back down to clean out ALL of the regular
grease and replacing it with the recommended Lubriplate it worked well
again :)
On Sat, 15 Jul 2023 15:11:38 -0400, Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid>
wrote:
On Sat, 15 Jul 2023 18:50:38 -0000 (UTC)How about Super Lube silicone synthetic grease from Synco??
bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net> wrote:
I'm looking for some kind of lubricant that doesn't get tacky
over time. The application is hand-cranked windows in an old car.
I think the tracks are the major problem, as pulling up on the
window while turning the crank eases the effort dramatically.
The machine gets driven only a few times per year and the windows
are _always_ very stiff. If I exercise them a bit, they free up.
Aerosol spray is probably the easiest thing to apply, but I'm
willing to consider liquid or paste if it'll help.
Thanks for reading, and any ideas!
bob prohaska
Sounds like "magic grease" to my ears. Will be curious to read any
answers ;-)
I've had some luck with Dri-Slide type lubes. But they really don't
function the same as grease so have limited use.
https://www.drislide.com
Something I would consider but have never gotten around to trying for
this is the special Lubriplate grease for screw type garage door
openers.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=lubriplate+garage+door+grease
Once made the mistake of using regular grease for a sticky screw type
opener. After tearing it back down to clean out ALL of the regular
grease and replacing it with the recommended Lubriplate it worked well
again :)
I got some sillycone spray lube from the auto parts store for the
truck window with the new seals . It helped , but the regulator
mechanism is still worn out .
On 7/16/2023 7:35 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sat, 15 Jul 2023 21:58:08 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
I got some sillycone spray lube from the auto parts store for the
truck window with the new seals . It helped , but the regulator
mechanism is still worn out .
I had my old 1982 K10 rustproofed a couple times. One applicator shot a
lot of goo inside both doors. They got it on the Door Window Glass
Channel where the window slides down inside the door. I had to tear both
doors apart, remove the channel and clean it with solvent. Wash it good
again to remove the solvent and put it all back. Worked really good
again. It was just a Custom model so had manual hand cranks.
I just looked at Rockauto parts and you can get the whole sheebang for
$95. Top side seals, scrapers and that lower glass channel. I'd fixed
the topside scrapers with RTV silicone where they had cracked a couple
times. If I still had the truck I'd just get the kit and replace it
all.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1982,k10+pickup,6.2l+379cid+v8+diesel,1298886,body+&+lamp+assembly,weatherstrip+kit,795
Always tried to oil the regulator/crank mechanism whenever I had the
door panel removed...
I've been spending some money at LMC Truck ... just got new window channels , only got the drivers side installed so far , the old ones
were totally trashed and missing chunks .
Got a question , I need to replace the manual window crank assembly
since it's shot . It looks like I can tape the window up (all the way)
and get the old one out ... any tips for that ? The new channels are a
one piece , I don't want to pull the vent window assembly and mess it up .
On Sat, 15 Jul 2023 21:58:08 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
I got some sillycone spray lube from the auto parts store for the
truck window with the new seals . It helped , but the regulator
mechanism is still worn out .
I had my old 1982 K10 rustproofed a couple times. One applicator shot a
lot of goo inside both doors. They got it on the Door Window Glass
Channel where the window slides down inside the door. I had to tear both doors apart, remove the channel and clean it with solvent. Wash it good
again to remove the solvent and put it all back. Worked really good
again. It was just a Custom model so had manual hand cranks.
I just looked at Rockauto parts and you can get the whole sheebang for
$95. Top side seals, scrapers and that lower glass channel. I'd fixed
the topside scrapers with RTV silicone where they had cracked a couple
times. If I still had the truck I'd just get the kit and replace it
all.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1982,k10+pickup,6.2l+379cid+v8+diesel,1298886,body+&+lamp+assembly,weatherstrip+kit,795
Always tried to oil the regulator/crank mechanism whenever I had the
door panel removed...
On 7/16/2023 2:29 PM, Snag wrote:
On 7/16/2023 7:35 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Sat, 15 Jul 2023 21:58:08 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
I got some sillycone spray lube from the auto parts store for the
truck window with the new seals . It helped , but the regulator
mechanism is still worn out .
I had my old 1982 K10 rustproofed a couple times. One applicator shot a
lot of goo inside both doors. They got it on the Door Window Glass
Channel where the window slides down inside the door. I had to tear both >>> doors apart, remove the channel and clean it with solvent. Wash it good
again to remove the solvent and put it all back. Worked really good
again. It was just a Custom model so had manual hand cranks.
I just looked at Rockauto parts and you can get the whole sheebang for
$95. Top side seals, scrapers and that lower glass channel. I'd fixed
the topside scrapers with RTV silicone where they had cracked a couple
times. If I still had the truck I'd just get the kit and replace it
all.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1982,k10+pickup,6.2l+379cid+v8+diesel,1298886,body+&+lamp+assembly,weatherstrip+kit,795
Always tried to oil the regulator/crank mechanism whenever I had the
door panel removed...
I've been spending some money at LMC Truck ... just got new window
channels , only got the drivers side installed so far , the old ones
were totally trashed and missing chunks .
Got a question , I need to replace the manual window crank assembly
since it's shot . It looks like I can tape the window up (all the way)
and get the old one out ... any tips for that ? The new channels are a
one piece , I don't want to pull the vent window assembly and mess it
up .
I need a new light button module and 4WD button module for the
Silverado. Been debating LMC Truck or GM Parts Direct. Might even go
with Rock Auto if they have them since I need to order oil/filters/ etc
for for servicing the Wrangler again.
Of course those button modules work with a play with them, so I I keep putting off replacing them.
I'm looking for some kind of lubricant that doesn't get tacky
over time. The application is hand-cranked windows in an old car.
I think the tracks are the major problem, as pulling up on the
window while turning the crank eases the effort dramatically.
The machine gets driven only a few times per year and the windows
are _always_ very stiff. If I exercise them a bit, they free up.
Aerosol spray is probably the easiest thing to apply, but I'm
willing to consider liquid or paste if it'll help.
Thanks for reading, and any ideas!
bob prohaska
Got a question , I need to replace the manual window crank assembly
since it's shot . It looks like I can tape the window up (all the way)
and get the old one out ... any tips for that ? The new channels are a
one piece , I don't want to pull the vent window assembly and mess it up .
On Sun, 16 Jul 2023 16:29:26 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
Got a question , I need to replace the manual window crank assembly
since it's shot . It looks like I can tape the window up (all the way)
and get the old one out ... any tips for that ? The new channels are a
one piece , I don't want to pull the vent window assembly and mess it up .
I'm no help with that. Never had to pull that assembly all the way out.
There's info in the Manual I linked you to awhile back for both the
manual and power. Here is what it says in the manual:
===
WINDOW REGULATOR REPLACEMENT
MANUAL REGULATOR
♦♦ Remove or Disconnect (Figure 12)
• Raise the window and tape the glass in the full up
position using cloth body tape.
1. Door trim panel. Refer to “ Door Trim Panel
Replacement.”
2. Door panel to regulator bolts (42).
3. Window regulator.
• Slide the regulator rearward to disengage
the rear roller from the sash channel. Also
disengage the lower roller from the regulator
rail.
• Disengage the forward roller from the sash
channel at the notch in the sash channel.
• Collapse the regulator, and remove it
through the access hole in the door.
===
I posted the image for that whole page here:
https://i.postimg.cc/MZnkmkvP/window-reg-page.png
If you need the power window version I can do the same if you can't
find the manual...
But it too is too worn which means tearing the dash apart again
. Worst part of that is getting the aftermarket radio out .
On Mon, 17 Jul 2023 15:41:32 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
But it too is too worn which means tearing the dash apart again
. Worst part of that is getting the aftermarket radio out .
You would not believe how many times I had the dash/instrument cluster
torn apart and/or the inside panel off my doors. I feel your pain 😬
Playing a hunch... there are some youtube vids you might want to watch
for clues:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=1983+pickup+window+regulator
bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net> writes:
I'm looking for some kind of lubricant that doesn't get tacky
over time. The application is hand-cranked windows in an old car.
I think the tracks are the major problem, as pulling up on the
window while turning the crank eases the effort dramatically.
The machine gets driven only a few times per year and the windows
are _always_ very stiff. If I exercise them a bit, they free up.
Aerosol spray is probably the easiest thing to apply, but I'm
willing to consider liquid or paste if it'll help.
When I was in the trade many years ago and silicone lubricants were
still something of a novelty, we used a silicone aerosol spray that
usually fixed it up if the tracks weren't too screwed up. Didn't make
a mess, stayed in place. I use a silicone spray on my 89 F-250
windows.
I worked in a college town at BJ's Foreign Auto where there was a few Mercedes and Jags but heavy to baffed out, poorly maintained,
sometimes weirdly engineered clunkers.
Thanks for reading, and any ideas!
bob prohaska
Thanks for looking ... those are the same results I got , and the
ones that replace manual crank units all pull the vent window
frame/front channel unit . I'll deal with it after the car is back in >service .
On Mon, 17 Jul 2023 18:56:57 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
Thanks for looking ... those are the same results I got , and the
ones that replace manual crank units all pull the vent window
frame/front channel unit . I'll deal with it after the car is back in
service .
Hear ya with that. No fun losing your only set of wheels. Limped by
using the motorcycle for two summers while trying to decide wether to
fix the truck or get something else. Grocery days were fun...
My truck came with an AM radio🙄
Put a Cobra
AM/FM 8-Track in its place hooked to 120 watt Equalizer Amp
that fed two 6x9 speakers in the doors. So I had a good size hole in
the lower front area of each door. Don't know if that would be enough
for the regulator do come out but I sure would have found it had I
needed to replace it. Holes came in handy while doing rust repair too🙂
On 7/18/2023 2:42 PM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Mon, 17 Jul 2023 18:56:57 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
Thanks for looking ... those are the same results I got , and the
ones that replace manual crank units all pull the vent window
frame/front channel unit . I'll deal with it after the car is back in
service .
Hear ya with that. No fun losing your only set of wheels. Limped by
using the motorcycle for two summers while trying to decide wether to
fix the truck or get something else. Grocery days were fun...
The old "two for deal" Little Cesar's boxes were great for motorcycle
runs because one end would rest on my lap while the other end rested on
the handle bars... until the far end lifted up and hit me in the face.
I can't imagine not owning a truck anymore. For a short time in my 20s
I didn't have one though. It was the same time I started my contracting >business. I hired a friend who had a pickup truck and paid him mileage.
LOL. I have not been without a truck since.
My truck came with an AM radio?
My 67 Ford Cortina GT came with an AM radio, but somebody had put some
kind of spring operated sound distortion thing in it to make it sound
like fake stereo. I ripped that thing out quick. Even an old k-Mart
Kraco was better than that.
Put a Cobra
At the Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas in 1994 I was run off from
the courtesy suite for Cobra. Some lady with a Cobra ID tag decided I
looked homeless or something. In spite of clean jeans, nice shirt, and
the big ass CES badge with my business name on it hanging around my
neck. She literally took food out of my wife's hands and put it back on
the table. I've been going to trade shows with family for various
things since I was very little and I was never treated so crappy by a
company rep before in my life. I've never purchased a Cobra product
since. I bought a lot of electronics over the next couple decades for >business and personal use both, but not one thing with a Cobra name
badge on it. Fuck Cobra.
Sadly I used to like Cobra before that.
AM/FM 8-Track in its place hooked to 120 watt Equalizer Amp
that fed two 6x9 speakers in the doors. So I had a good size hole in
the lower front area of each door. Don't know if that would be enough
for the regulator do come out but I sure would have found it had I
needed to replace it. Holes came in handy while doing rust repair too?
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
I can't imagine not owning a truck anymore. For a short time in my 20s
I didn't have one though. It was the same time I started my contracting >business. I hired a friend who had a pickup truck and paid him mileage.
LOL. I have not been without a truck since.
Fuck Cobra.
Sadly I used to like Cobra before that.
On Tue, 18 Jul 2023 15:33:25 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
<snip>
I can't imagine not owning a truck anymore. For a short time in my 20s
I didn't have one though. It was the same time I started my contracting
business. I hired a friend who had a pickup truck and paid him mileage.
LOL. I have not been without a truck since.
My first was a 1973 ElCamino pseudo truck...
My Impala is the lowly LS version. Next one up has a fold down rear
seat back, which is the only thing I miss. It has a good sized trunk.
With the rear seat back removed I has able to fit a 1-1/4 inch 10 foot
stick of conduit in and close the trunk. Just a hassle to unbolt the
seat back rather than just folding it down. Quite a few cars have that ability now which helps with not having the truck. One of the posters
of yore here had a small trailer he would pull with his Saturn when
needed. Could get better mileage for his lengthy commute that way...
<snip>
Fuck Cobra.
Sadly I used to like Cobra before that.
I've I few vendors like that, really pissed me off in someway. I think
we all do🙂
There was a wholesale company called Comtron ~1980 that dealt in
electronic goodies, Cobra being one of them. It was a refurb that I got really cheap. Cobra was trying to expand their offerings, more than just CB's. Don't know why but their AM/FM radio line was very brief. It was
a decent unit, I still have it. Pulled all my goodies out of the truck, figuring it would end up in a shredder. Old friend/neighbor bought it
though, been his daily driver for work 2 years now. It spun another
torque converter (700R4 automatic) a couple months ago. Must have been
around 110,000 miles on it this time. Only had ~40,000 on it when it
spun on me... He had it sent out to be fixed (can't buy them anymore,
at least not this model) and it's back on the road again...
Growing up I wanted a Subaru Brat. Another pseudo truck. I thought it
was perfect. 4WD, hauls stuff, and jump seats in the back for when my >friend wants to bring his asshole other friend. LOL. Sadly by the time
I was old enough and able to look at new vehicles they didn't make them
in the US anymore. There are two similar vehicles out today now. The
Ford Maverick and the Hyundai Santa Cruz. I really like the features
and looks of the Hyundai in some of its forms. I'd be tempted to buy
one, but the 07 Duramax Silverado is running fine (paid off), and the
'17 Jeep is still low miles and will be paid off this year. I don't
need a third 4x4.
My wife buys these little compact cars and then brags about how much
crap... er... I mean stuff... she can fit in them. Currently she is
driving a Hyundai Veloster Turbo. Her previous car was a Pontiac Vibe.
When I met her she drove a Miata upon which with purpose made bags she
could strap on enough gear to camp for a week without going to the store
for supplies. When the kids were little (after the second one was born)
she did buy bigger vehicles. Mazda 626LX and then an Avalanche, but as
soon as the kids started to drive she went back to smaller cars.
I envy people who can put shit behind them. Sadly if something is
pretty bad like that and they never make it right I don't have that
ability. I had (deceased now) an older friend who was friendly to >everybody. He could be in a legal battle with somebody, and still be
their friend outside the courtroom. I asked him how he was able to do
that. He said, "In thirty years nobody will even remember much less
care." I envied that ability. Its funny. I mentioned the Cobra
incident to my wife last night and she doesn't even remember it.
| Sysop: | Keyop |
|---|---|
| Location: | Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK |
| Users: | 508 |
| Nodes: | 16 (0 / 16) |
| Uptime: | 244:23:15 |
| Calls: | 9,988 |
| Calls today: | 6 |
| Files: | 13,836 |
| Messages: | 6,358,729 |
| Posted today: | 1 |
