Or de-rust the brakes. Something down there makes scraping sounds when I
turn. I began with the brakes because they are the easiest to inspect and clean, and have previously made contact noise due to rust buildup that I
found I hadn't completely removed. This time I bolted a leg vise to an
outdoor table so I have both hands free to hammer and chisel the rust. The rotor is in a 3-jaw with a 5C mount in a spin index, not exactly a brake
lathe but good enough to hold and rotate it while grinding down the outer
edge rust buildup. The chuck and spin index would have been enough to mill
and drill a copy of the lathe spindle spider.

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On Mon, 24 Jul 2023 12:49:19 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

Or de-rust the brakes. Something down there makes scraping sounds when I >turn. I began with the brakes because they are the easiest to inspect and >clean, and have previously made contact noise due to rust buildup that I >found I hadn't completely removed. This time I bolted a leg vise to an >outdoor table so I have both hands free to hammer and chisel the rust. The >rotor is in a 3-jaw with a 5C mount in a spin index, not exactly a brake >lathe but good enough to hold and rotate it while grinding down the outer >edge rust buildup. The chuck and spin index would have been enough to mill >and drill a copy of the lathe spindle spider.

Messy job, not much fun with that...

Did similar to my 1982 Chevy K10 several times for odd scraping noises.
Front could be done with an old file and wire brush. Rear drums could
be pulled off. Usually a ton of dust and detritus in the drum and whole
brake assembly that needed a good blow job😬

You can get coated versions nowadays that are suppose to hold up better
where we keep our roads well seasoned in the winter. Just checked
Rockauto and they're not as expensive as I would have guessed, $50-60
for a 1996 Explorer.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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On Mon, 24 Jul 2023 14:36:52 -0400, Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid>
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Jul 2023 12:49:19 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

Or de-rust the brakes. Something down there makes scraping sounds when I >>turn. I began with the brakes because they are the easiest to inspect and >>clean, and have previously made contact noise due to rust buildup that I >>found I hadn't completely removed. This time I bolted a leg vise to an >>outdoor table so I have both hands free to hammer and chisel the rust. The >>rotor is in a 3-jaw with a 5C mount in a spin index, not exactly a brake >>lathe but good enough to hold and rotate it while grinding down the outer >>edge rust buildup. The chuck and spin index would have been enough to mill >>and drill a copy of the lathe spindle spider.

Messy job, not much fun with that...

Did similar to my 1982 Chevy K10 several times for odd scraping noises.
Front could be done with an old file and wire brush. Rear drums could
be pulled off. Usually a ton of dust and detritus in the drum and whole
brake assembly that needed a good blow job?

You can get coated versions nowadays that are suppose to hold up better
where we keep our roads well seasoned in the winter. Just checked
Rockauto and they're not as expensive as I would have guessed, $50-60
for a 1996 Explorer.

The coated ones help - at least they delay the inevitable. I find a
small ball pien hammer works good on the rotors o just tap-tap-tal all
around both inner and outer edges while still mounted and most of the
heavy stuff comes off. What is harder to fix is the "splash shield"
rubbing on the rotor. Generally just tear them off. I do the same on
the drums, but with them remobed, then hit them lightly with a flap
disk on the 4 1/2 inch angle grinder to get off the rest.

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"Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:u9mgc4$olsc$1@dont-email.me...

On Mon, 24 Jul 2023 12:49:19 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

Or de-rust the brakes. Something down there makes scraping sounds when I >turn. I began with the brakes because they are the easiest to inspect and >clean, and have previously made contact noise due to rust buildup that I >found I hadn't completely removed. This time I bolted a leg vise to an >outdoor table so I have both hands free to hammer and chisel the rust. The >rotor is in a 3-jaw with a 5C mount in a spin index, not exactly a brake >lathe but good enough to hold and rotate it while grinding down the outer >edge rust buildup. The chuck and spin index would have been enough to mill >and drill a copy of the lathe spindle spider.

Messy job, not much fun with that...

Did similar to my 1982 Chevy K10 several times for odd scraping noises.
Front could be done with an old file and wire brush. Rear drums could
be pulled off. Usually a ton of dust and detritus in the drum and whole
brake assembly that needed a good blow job😬

You can get coated versions nowadays that are suppose to hold up better
where we keep our roads well seasoned in the winter. Just checked
Rockauto and they're not as expensive as I would have guessed, $50-60
for a 1996 Explorer.
Leon Fisk

--------------------

The problem appears to have been a loosely attached fragment of the rusty
front brake dust shield that may have swung against the rotor when turning
at speed. I was concerned that water might have entered the hub and caused rust, but the wheel bearing free play is still well within spec. Everything
got a good scrubbing and CRC high temp brake grease where the shop manual indicates, a task I've neglected since putting on all-season tires instead
of swapping 3-season and winter tires. Since retiring I have little reason
to drive unless the roads are dry.

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"Clare Snyder" wrote in message news:haqtbi9a20uhafuj0u81kej9afek8821ne@4ax.com...

... What is harder to fix is the "splash shield"
rubbing on the rotor. Generally just tear them off. I do the same on
the drums, but with them remo[v]ed, then hit them lightly with a flap
disk on the 4 1/2 inch angle grinder to get off the rest.

------------------

The Ford's old shields came off easily and I copied them in 22 gauge galvanized, which has held up well. I formed the stiffening flange around
the edge with stovepipe crimping pliers. Unfortunately changing the Honda's
may require disassembling the suspension and pressing the hub apart, which could happen.

I used to put the drums back on facing out to grind off the rust rim that
makes removing them difficult, but the 3-jaw in the spin index is much more convenient and at a better working height which matters to high-mileage
knees. My lathe is only 10", too small for brakes.

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On Mon, 24 Jul 2023 17:44:12 -0400
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

<snip>

Since retiring I have little reason
to drive unless the roads are dry.

Me too🙂 I have a usual store day but will go a day or two earlier or
later to avoid the salted roads. The only bugaboo is appointments.
Try to avoid making any during the "salt" months...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

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