In my process of adding an EV charging station I had wanted to add
another 20 amp 220V outlet for occasional use of other 220V equipment in
the garage. (band saw, radial arm saw, non business CNC machine, etc)
With the 50 amp breaker for the charging station the sub panel is now
full. They make high density breakers (4 poles in the space of 2), but
I was unable to find one for this panel.
I know the odds of one of you being specifically familiar is slim, but
its worth a shot.
Before somebody says, "Did you try Home Depot?" in a dry nasally voice.
Yes I tried all the usual easy suspects.
The sub panel is a GE PowerMark Gold Load Center. I am looking for a
drop in 4 pole high density breaker in the configuration of 20/20-20/20.
It looks like the Siemens breakers with a UNV suffix may be a correct
fit, but the outside poles on the only one I found were 15 amp. All the existing circuits are 20 amp. The panel is currently being used as a
sub panel, and is full at the moment. Other Siemens breakers I found
that appeared to be a match will not physically fit. They have a
blocker plate on the connections, and the physical gap in the middle is
to narrow.
I did also look for a GE solution since its a GE panel, but was unable
to find anything at all. I would ask them if they had a solution I had
not found, but they make accepting all cookies and agreeing to receive
SPAM a condition of contact.
The suffix UNV I found with the 15 amp poles was at Lowes. I did not physically try it, but visually it appears to have the correct gap to
fit around the plastic rejection tab in the panel, the correct depth for
the contact lugs, and correct snap in length when compared directly with
the 50 amp GE breaker I used for the EV station.
In my process of adding an EV charging station I had wanted to add
another 20 amp 220V outlet for occasional use of other 220V equipment
in the garage. (band saw, radial arm saw, non business CNC machine,
etc) With the 50 amp breaker for the charging station the sub panel is
now full. They make high density breakers (4 poles in the space of
2), but I was unable to find one for this panel.
...
I know the odds of one of you being specifically familiar is slim, but its worth a shot.
As I sit out here trying to find another breaker I just received a
couple images via text from my wife. She has plugged the new EV station >into her car for the first time and it appears to be working.
On Wed, 27 Sep 2023 17:12:49 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
As I sit out here trying to find another breaker I just received a
couple images via text from my wife. She has plugged the new EV station
into her car for the first time and it appears to be working.
Nice! So all the work wasn't in vain😉
Without looking at the panel and doing research...
Can you replace a couple of your 20amp singles with tandem/duals which
should free up a spot for a 20amp 2-pole 240v?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/386130342474
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> writes:
In my process of adding an EV charging station I had wanted to add
another 20 amp 220V outlet for occasional use of other 220V equipment
in the garage. (band saw, radial arm saw, non business CNC machine,
etc) With the 50 amp breaker for the charging station the sub panel is
now full. They make high density breakers (4 poles in the space of
2), but I was unable to find one for this panel.
...
Similar-ish thought about outbuilding here (UK - 230V). If want it on
a line protected with a time-delayed higher fault current Residual
Current Device - so the RCD in the outbuilding would trip first but
the cable from the house to the outbuilding is still sufficiently
protected - then could have a separate
single-isolator/single-RCD/single-MCB
[MCB == Miniature Circuit Breaker]
box having power coming off the make distribution board just after its incoming isolator.
You'd be adding a third Residual Current Device in the "Consumer Unit" (distribution board)
* each RCD takes up two spaces on the rail - takes up space
* another live and neutral cable from isolator to "special" RCD
so separate box suggested as most elegant solution.
On 9/28/2023 5:56 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Wed, 27 Sep 2023 17:12:49 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
As I sit out here trying to find another breaker I just received a
couple images via text from my wife. She has plugged the new EV station >>> into her car for the first time and it appears to be working.
Nice! So all the work wasn't in vain😉
Without looking at the panel and doing research...
Can you replace a couple of your 20amp singles with tandem/duals which
should free up a spot for a 20amp 2-pole 240v?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/386130342474
Those actually look like they might work. There appears to be adequate clearance for the plastic rejection tabs in the panel. I can't tell
from the photos if there is a blocker plate on the panel lug or not, but
at 15-18 bucks I can buy one just to find out.
On 9/28/2023 9:52 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/28/2023 5:56 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Wed, 27 Sep 2023 17:12:49 -0700
Bob La Londe <no...@none.com99> wrote:
As I sit out here trying to find another breaker I just received a
couple images via text from my wife. She has plugged the new EV station >>> into her car for the first time and it appears to be working.
Nice! So all the work wasn't in vain😉
Without looking at the panel and doing research...
Can you replace a couple of your 20amp singles with tandem/duals which
should free up a spot for a 20amp 2-pole 240v?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/386130342474
Those actually look like they might work. There appears to be adequate clearance for the plastic rejection tabs in the panel. I can't tell
from the photos if there is a blocker plate on the panel lug or not, but at 15-18 bucks I can buy one just to find out.
My concern is that they may have either a blocker plate or they may be
the alternate style breaker connection like the one linked below.
Fourth Image Down: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Q-Line-20-Amp-1-in-Double-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-THQP220/100166263#overlay
I've been excited to have found a solution more than once in this search only to discover I've been stymied again.
On 9/28/2023 9:52 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/28/2023 5:56 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:[...]
[...]
[...]
Those actually look like they might work. There appears to be adequate
clearance for the plastic rejection tabs in the panel. I can't tell
from the photos if there is a blocker plate on the panel lug or not, but
at 15-18 bucks I can buy one just to find out.
My concern is that they may have either a blocker plate or they may be
the alternate style breaker connection like the one linked below.
Fourth Image Down: >https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Q-Line-20-Amp-1-in-Double-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-THQP220/100166263#overlay
I've been excited to have found a solution more than once in this search >only to discover I've been stymied again.
You are right - 230V single-phase from the local substation feeding
the area.
You went with Tesla's recommendation of 60Hz which is clearly "just
right" for long-distance transmission. Where out 50Hz is
unnecessarily slower and increases the size of transformers, etc.
The only 110V we use in the UK isn't even "normal supply" - on
building sites we have centre-tapped transformers so in-effect have
-55V and +55V. Very safe.
230V is a bit too much for construction sites, for sure.
Residual Current Devices make 230V power tools acceptable for domestic
work.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:uf2ge1$3b8kg$3@dont-email.me...
I know the odds of one of you being specifically familiar is slim, but
its worth a shot.
Sorry, can't help. My house has a 200A service for no longer used
electric heat so there's plenty of space for welding breakers, and the State's new registration surcharge for electric vehicles killed my
interest in a PHEV. This spring our electric rate was $0.30 per KWH, now
it's 'down' to $0.22. When the people across the street gave me
permission to cut dead trees for firewood on their large property I
installed a woodstove. I grew up with coal/steam heat and am used to a
cool house in the morning.
On Thursday, September 28, 2023 at 1:09:43 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/28/2023 9:52 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 9/28/2023 5:56 AM, Leon Fisk wrote:My concern is that they may have either a blocker plate or they may be
On Wed, 27 Sep 2023 17:12:49 -0700
Bob La Londe <no...@none.com99> wrote:
As I sit out here trying to find another breaker I just received a
couple images via text from my wife. She has plugged the new EV station >>>>> into her car for the first time and it appears to be working.
Nice! So all the work wasn't in vain😉
Without looking at the panel and doing research...
Can you replace a couple of your 20amp singles with tandem/duals which >>>> should free up a spot for a 20amp 2-pole 240v?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/386130342474
Those actually look like they might work. There appears to be adequate
clearance for the plastic rejection tabs in the panel. I can't tell
from the photos if there is a blocker plate on the panel lug or not, but >>> at 15-18 bucks I can buy one just to find out.
the alternate style breaker connection like the one linked below.
Fourth Image Down:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Q-Line-20-Amp-1-in-Double-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-THQP220/100166263#overlay
I've been excited to have found a solution more than once in this search
only to discover I've been stymied again.
Just make good buddies with a union journeyman electrician.
On 9/28/2023 5:23 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:When we got on line in 1948, on electrician was getting a high
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:uf2ge1$3b8kg$3@dont-email.me...
I know the odds of one of you being specifically familiar is slim, but
its worth a shot.
Sorry, can't help. My house has a 200A service for no longer used
electric heat so there's plenty of space for welding breakers, and the
State's new registration surcharge for electric vehicles killed my
interest in a PHEV. This spring our electric rate was $0.30 per KWH, now
it's 'down' to $0.22. When the people across the street gave me
permission to cut dead trees for firewood on their large property I
installed a woodstove. I grew up with coal/steam heat and am used to a
cool house in the morning.
I cut a percentage of my firewood into what I call "overnighters" ,
and they can be some bigass chunks - my stove door opening is 11"x 11"
and the fire box is 24" long . I hate waking up to a cold house ...
Looking at predictions for a strengthening el nino I think I better
get more busier with the firewood collecting .
As far as Bob's breaker , I wish I could help . I've still got 5 open
slots in my 200A main panel , and I think 2 slots in the 100A sub panel
out in the shop . I educated guesstimated what I wanted to do then
doubled the size/breaker capacity . Good thing too .
On 28/09/2023 21:16, Richard Smith wrote:I think it was aroun 1950 when Toronto and a large surrounding area
You are right - 230V single-phase from the local substation feeding
the area.
You went with Tesla's recommendation of 60Hz which is clearly "just
right" for long-distance transmission. Where out 50Hz is
unnecessarily slower and increases the size of transformers, etc.
The only 110V we use in the UK isn't even "normal supply" - on
building sites we have centre-tapped transformers so in-effect have
-55V and +55V. Very safe.
230V is a bit too much for construction sites, for sure.
Residual Current Devices make 230V power tools acceptable for domestic
work.
Not always 60Hz though after reading about the 1965 US blackout >https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northeast_blackout_of_1965 where it
mentions some areas as 25Hz, also >https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utility_frequency which gives a wide
variety of frequencies early on. IIRC it was mentioned UK Europe went
50Hz as it was better for motors and 60Hz in the US as arc lights were
more stable.
"Snag" wrote in message news:uf4rsv$3sbq8$2@dont-email.me...
I wouldn't let a union 'trician within a hundred yards of my house . But then I was a Navy electrician , and they have actual standards
besides time in position and timely payment of union dues .
Snag
----------------------
I've read the Navy isolates all the power, no grounded Neutral, so a
single short to the hull won't bring down the system.
Did you learn about the power failure on the battleship USS South Dakota
at Guadalcanal? Was it really sabotage? I thought the two generators
were cross-connected without synchronizing them. The damage report was written much later and contains known errors.
The fires on South Dakota masked Washington beyond and she scored on Kirishima with amazing accuracy. Usually battleships hit each other with about 2% of the shells, Washington's radar-controlled night gunnery was closer to 25%. That and the one-sided battle at Leyte are the only
evidence of how good our battleships were. It suggests what the US battleships at Leyte might have done to Yamato if she hadn't turned
back. Although they may not have been able to defeat her armor they
could have destroyed the superstructure and ability to aim, which had
shut down Bismarck.
"Gerry" wrote in message news:3lhchid8q6ln5r03p32od5do0atpb7jatj@4ax.com...
I think it was aroun 1950 when Toronto and a large surrounding area
switched over from 25 to 60 Hz. I remember visiting Mother'family and >noticing how thier ligts all blinked. It cost the supplier a fortune
to replace all the affected equipment!
-----------------------------
https://www.djtelectricaltraining.co.uk/downloads/50Hz-Frequency.pdf
I don't have references that explains why aircraft chose 400Hz to reduce
iron core weight and electric trains, the biggest early users, used 25Hz for >some good reason. Fukushima couldn't get enough Diesel generator and
external power for the reactor cooling pumps at their frequency or
supplement it with power at the other frequency, which the media >misunderstood and reported as a problem with incompatible plugs.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:uf4bic$3p2la$3@dont-email.me...
In the US residential and non-industrial is usually split phase. We
have a single phase coming in, but its got a half tap at the service transformer for 120V nominal which is what most small to medium devices
are designed to work with. The 120V device can be wire from either leg
to the half tap or neutral. It makes for some interesting conversations with other do-it-yourselfers. In the past there were house which only received half phase. That is their service entrance was 120V nominal
only.
I may not have the terms exactly right, but that's the gist of it. Like
I said, it makes wiring in extra stuff interesting.
-------------------------
I remember the single drop and 60A screw-in fusebox. My father bought
and remodeled old houses as a sideline, I think because it gave him
problems he could solve with a hammer. He became pretty good at
everything except 3-way light switches. I might have helped him more if
my role hadn't been the nail.
I would describe the US residential service as coming from a
center-tapped transformer secondary winding with the center tap defined
as neutral and grounded, thus the two ends of the secondary are 120V at
180 degrees apart, each is 120V to neutral and 240V to the other one. In
the breaker box the connecting tabs to the two hot "phases"
interleaved such that a double breaker connects to both for 240V, a
single breaker to one for 120V, and the single breakers above and below
it are the opposite phase so hopefully the electrician will more or less balance the loads between them as he works his way down. >
Large loads such as the kitchen stove, water heater and clothes dryer
use double breakers for 240V, wall outlets and room overhead lighting
uses single ones for 120V, with the loads connected in series unlike the British loop that feeds from both ends. The wall outlets and switched
ceiling lighting in each room are supposed to be on different breakers
so the room can be lit with one while the other is shut off for
maintenance. Back when I learned this the wall outlet circuits were
wired for 20A and the lighting for 15A, with thinner wire. Sometimes a
wall switch controls an outlet meant for a lamp, especially if there
isn't an overhead ceiling lamp which could cause a leak in the insulation.
There can be variations. My house has a separate meter and breaker box
for the water heater which is billed at a lower rate. The main drop is
200A for the baseboard electric heating that was expected to be cheap
nuclear in 1970. Rooftop solar uses a different meter that records power bought and sold by the customer separately. Determining the direction of
AC is actually easy, a phone does it with voice to send and receive on a single pair of wires.
Another difference from British practice is the fuse isn't in the plug, unless it's a built-in ground fault interrupter. It protects the house wiring, the appliance is its designers problem. Old fuse boxes were
meant to have the center contact of the screw-in fuse hot so that once
you unscrewed the fuse part way the more accessible threaded shell was
safe to accidentally touch, which it wouldn't be with a ring main.
Holders for cylindrical glass automotive fuses that can be used for 120V should be wired the same way, hot at the inner end.
You can identify which breaker controls an outlet without a helper by plugging in a vacuum cleaner that vibrates the floor and can be heard
from far away.
Although house wiring is sometimes considered two phase,
formally reserved for separate circuits 90 degrees apart which was
Tesla's original sine and cosine supply that created a smoothly rotating magnetic field to eliminate DC motor brushes. It required four
distribution wires while 3 phases at 120 degrees apart could be done
more cheaply with three and so replaced it.
Industrial schematics label the phases and the wires themselves L1, L2
and L3 (L=Line) ,and each succeeding wire connection takes an increasing numerical prefix, so that the wires coming from the 3 phase breaker may
be 1L1, 1L2, 1L3, then 2L1, 2L2, 2L3 from a contactor to a motor, etc.
The parallel lines that look like a capacitor are normally open relay contacts that should have their associated Control Relay (CR) indicated
with a circle for the coil. The N-like variant is a normally closed
contact, normally meaning powered off. This is called a ladder diagram because the power lines are usually vertical and the relay contacts and
coils etc drawn horizontally between them.
-jsw
I would describe the US residential service ...
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:uf7d6d$ek86$1...@dont-email.me...
On 9/28/2023 4:10 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
I would describe the US residential service ...
-------------------
Once I started I decided to cover the basics, not just respond to you specifically.
I've heard and seen the two lines called "phases" for lack of a better term. https://www.homecontrols.com/homecontrols/content/Blog/CircuitBreakerConfig1.pdf
"Adjacent breakers, such as 1 and 3, and 4 and 6, are on opposite “phases.” Breakers 1 and 6 derive power from L1, breakers 3 and
4, from L2."
On Thu, 28 Sep 2023 16:36:53 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:UNrer Rural Electrification in the early years that was STANDARD
On 9/28/2023 5:23 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:When we got on line in 1948, on electrician was getting a high
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:uf2ge1$3b8kg$3@dont-email.me...
I know the odds of one of you being specifically familiar is slim, but >>>> its worth a shot.
Sorry, can't help. My house has a 200A service for no longer used
electric heat so there's plenty of space for welding breakers, and the
State's new registration surcharge for electric vehicles killed my
interest in a PHEV. This spring our electric rate was $0.30 per KWH, now >>> it's 'down' to $0.22. When the people across the street gave me
permission to cut dead trees for firewood on their large property I
installed a woodstove. I grew up with coal/steam heat and am used to a
cool house in the morning.
I cut a percentage of my firewood into what I call "overnighters" ,
and they can be some bigass chunks - my stove door opening is 11"x 11"
and the fire box is 24" long . I hate waking up to a cold house ...
Looking at predictions for a strengthening el nino I think I better
get more busier with the firewood collecting .
As far as Bob's breaker , I wish I could help . I've still got 5 open >>slots in my 200A main panel , and I think 2 slots in the 100A sub panel
out in the shop . I educated guesstimated what I wanted to do then
doubled the size/breaker capacity . Good thing too .
percentage of the wireing jobs in an area where no one knew much about >electrical equipment. His price for wireinng a house was based on one
cieling light and one wall plug per room; stairway lighting control
was a pull chain socket with a long string to the lower floor.
Incoming electrical service was two wire 120V feeding a two pole
disconnect with two 15A. fuses. Believe it or not, this was approved
by the inspector (he retired shortly thereafter)
On Thu, 28 Sep 2023 21:37:38 +0100, David Billington <djb@invalid.com>1955 in Perth County Ontario. I remember when we got our new
wrote:
On 28/09/2023 21:16, Richard Smith wrote:I think it was aroun 1950 when Toronto and a large surrounding area
You are right - 230V single-phase from the local substation feeding
the area.
You went with Tesla's recommendation of 60Hz which is clearly "just
right" for long-distance transmission. Where out 50Hz is
unnecessarily slower and increases the size of transformers, etc.
The only 110V we use in the UK isn't even "normal supply" - on
building sites we have centre-tapped transformers so in-effect have
-55V and +55V. Very safe.
230V is a bit too much for construction sites, for sure.
Residual Current Devices make 230V power tools acceptable for domestic
work.
Not always 60Hz though after reading about the 1965 US blackout >>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northeast_blackout_of_1965 where it
mentions some areas as 25Hz, also >>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utility_frequency which gives a wide
variety of frequencies early on. IIRC it was mentioned UK Europe went
50Hz as it was better for motors and 60Hz in the US as arc lights were
more stable.
switched over from 25 to 60 Hz. I remember visiting Mother'family and >noticing how thier ligts all blinked. It cost the supplier a fortune
to replace all the affected equipment!
On Fri, 29 Sep 2023 07:28:11 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
<muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
"Gerry" wrote in message news:3lhchid8q6ln5r03p32od5do0atpb7jatj@4ax.com... >>
I think it was aroun 1950 when Toronto and a large surrounding area >>switched over from 25 to 60 Hz. I remember visiting Mother'family and >>noticing how thier ligts all blinked. It cost the supplier a fortune
to replace all the affected equipment!
-----------------------------
https://www.djtelectricaltraining.co.uk/downloads/50Hz-Frequency.pdf
I don't have references that explains why aircraft chose 400Hz to reduce >>iron core weight and electric trains, the biggest early users, used 25Hz for >>some good reason. Fukushima couldn't get enough Diesel generator and >>external power for the reactor cooling pumps at their frequency or >>supplement it with power at the other frequency, which the media >>misunderstood and reported as a problem with incompatible plugs.
Airplanes used 400 Hz because 400 Hz transformers are a fraction the
size and weight of that at 60 Hz.
Servo systems and magnetic amplifiers on ships also used 400 Hz, for
the same reasons.
Trains used 25 Hz because propulsion motor systems for trains were
cheapest at that frequency, and soma worked at ~16 Hz. Lower
frequency means lower motor speed means less gearing needed.
Another constraint was the ever-improving magnetic properties of
transformer core materials. The 400 Hz stuff was not practical in the
early days of electric powered trains.
As for Fukushima, I no longer recall what caused the cooling systems
to fail, but it was not lack of diesel fuel, unless one thinks that
the Japanese Government would have been unable to buy a tanker ship
full of diesel fuel and station it on the wharf right in front of
Fukushima.
Hmm. I'm thinking that tsunami seawater inundation destroyed the
generators and electrical equipment, and maybe the cooling pump
electric motors.
Joe Gwinnanother afvantage of 400hz for aircraft is higher RPM motors for
I've heard and seen the two lines called "phases" for lack of a better[...]
term.
"Adjacent breakers, such as 1 and 3, and 4 and 6, are on opposite “phases.” Breakers 1 and 6 derive power from L1, breakers 3 and
4, from L2."
I've heard and seen the two lines called "phases" for lack of a better[...]
term.
"Adjacent breakers, such as 1 and 3, and 4 and 6, are on opposite “phases.” Breakers 1 and 6 derive power from L1, breakers 3 and
4, from L2."
On Friday, September 29, 2023 at 2:31:00 PM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:uf7d6d$ek86$1...@dont-email.me...
GE doesn't make quad breakers unless they just started . You will need to get a 20 Amp DP thin breaker & 2 20 Amp SP breakers & put a single pole on each side of the DP breaker . Some GE panels don't have the buss bars for thin breakers .
What you may want to think about is to put a sub panel where the car charger is & then pull the charger & the new circuits from the new sub panel .
animal
On 9/28/2023 4:10 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
I would describe the US residential service ...
-------------------
Once I started I decided to cover the basics, not just respond to you
specifically.
I've heard and seen the two lines called "phases" for lack of a better term. >> https://www.homecontrols.com/homecontrols/content/Blog/CircuitBreakerConfig1.pdf
"Adjacent breakers, such as 1 and 3, and 4 and 6, are on opposite
“phases.” Breakers 1 and 6 derive power from L1, breakers 3 and
4, from L2."
On 9/29/2023 6:17 PM, ani...@psln.com wrote:
On Friday, September 29, 2023 at 2:31:00 PM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:uf7d6d$ek86$1...@dont-email.me...
GE doesn't make quad breakers unless they just started . You will need to get a 20 Amp DP thin breaker & 2 20 Amp SP breakers & put a single pole on each side of the DP breaker . Some GE panels don't have the buss bars for thin breakers .
What you may want to think about is to put a sub panel where the car charger is & then pull the charger & the new circuits from the new sub panel .
animal
On 9/28/2023 4:10 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
I would describe the US residential service ...
-------------------
Once I started I decided to cover the basics, not just respond to you
specifically.
I've heard and seen the two lines called "phases" for lack of a better term.
https://www.homecontrols.com/homecontrols/content/Blog/CircuitBreakerConfig1.pdf
"Adjacent breakers, such as 1 and 3, and 4 and 6, are on opposite
“phases.” Breakers 1 and 6 derive power from L1, breakers 3 and
4, from L2."
I suppose another sub panel is an option. I considered it. The main is
just outside on the other side of the garage. I might pull a small sub
off that instead.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com
On Saturday, September 30, 2023 at 10:31:21 AM UTC-7, Bob La Londe wrote:should cover the next 20 years down the line as far as having available power .
On 9/29/2023 6:17 PM, ani...@psln.com wrote:
On Friday, September 29, 2023 at 2:31:00 PM UTC-7, Jim Wilkins wrote: >>>> "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:uf7d6d$ek86$1...@dont-email.me...I suppose another sub panel is an option. I considered it. The main is
GE doesn't make quad breakers unless they just started . You will need to get a 20 Amp DP thin breaker & 2 20 Amp SP breakers & put a single pole on each side of the DP breaker . Some GE panels don't have the buss bars for thin breakers .
What you may want to think about is to put a sub panel where the car charger is & then pull the charger & the new circuits from the new sub panel .
animal
On 9/28/2023 4:10 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
I would describe the US residential service ...
-------------------
Once I started I decided to cover the basics, not just respond to you
specifically.
I've heard and seen the two lines called "phases" for lack of a better term.
https://www.homecontrols.com/homecontrols/content/Blog/CircuitBreakerConfig1.pdf
"Adjacent breakers, such as 1 and 3, and 4 and 6, are on opposite
“phases.” Breakers 1 and 6 derive power from L1, breakers 3 and
4, from L2."
just outside on the other side of the garage. I might pull a small sub
off that instead.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
www.avg.com
Bob , that would be your best bet . Surface mount the sub & you will always be able to have access for adding new circuits when needed . I don't remember what all is in the main panel , since its such a short run maybe doing a 100 A feed to the sub
animal
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| Nodes: | 16 (2 / 14) |
| Uptime: | 233:11:06 |
| Calls: | 9,984 |
| Calls today: | 2 |
| Files: | 13,833 |
| Messages: | 6,359,841 |