And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on theLet me guess - the right one?? Right front braring failure seems to
rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got worse
but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more checking
and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on the '99
4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad that it's
such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it . Whatever , I
spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced and almost all
the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff that will make it
easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one went the other
ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today ... I really can't >complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and the bearing I just >replaced was OE .
I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with
catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
On Tue, 3 Oct 2023 19:33:33 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on theLet me guess - the right one?? Right front braring failure seems to
rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got worse
but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more checking
and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on the '99
4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad that it's
such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it . Whatever , I
spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced and almost all
the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff that will make it
easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one went the other
ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today ... I really can't
complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and the bearing I just
replaced was OE .
I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with
catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
be most common and at 340000 miles I'd say you were getting close to
due. On a Ford or a Chebbie you'd likely be about ready for #3 or 4
And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on the
rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got worse
but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more checking
and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on the '99
4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad that it's
such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it . Whatever , I
spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced and almost all
the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff that will make it
easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one went the other
ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today ... I really can't >complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and the bearing I just >replaced was OE .
I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with
catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message >news:6l5rhihk0edk7v3ldgm81ksqvd3avr42eu@4ax.com...
I must say that if one intends to run a vehicle for that many miles,
it might be best to go to an airplane-style maintenance approach,
where all critical items are replaced on a fixed schedule chosen to
eliminate the possibility of in-service failures. There will still be >surprise failures, but far less often or consequential.
Having all maintenance being scheduled allows for many economies of
time and money.
Joe Gwinn
---------------------------
I've tried that with mixed results. If the vehicle is old enough that only >aftermarket parts are available the originals may be more reliable, the >voltage regulator on my 91 Ford for example. After a spare one failed I put >the original regulator back in and just use the brushes from replacements.
Today I replaced the entire after-cat exhaust on my Honda, though only one >pipe was bad. The OEM catcon had been replaced earlier this year because its >rear flange rotted away. What is your experience with type 409 stainless >exhausts? I read that it's what factory ones are made from and may rust on >the surface, as the chromium content is lower than for 304.
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:ufif8f$3r4cq$1@dont-email.me...
 The majority of problems I had today were from press setups . The
longer I have a hydraulic press* the more odds and ends I seem to
accumulate to make it adaptable to the task at hand . I need to add a
box for blocks etc .
 *I recently upgraded the original HF 12T press with an air/hydraulic
20T bottle jack.
Snag
-------------------------
One of my justifications for buying machine shop stuff was to make
custom repair parts and tooling. Since then I found that most car wear
parts weren't machined and I could borrow a lot of special tooling like
ball joint removers from Autozone, after cleaning up enough to drive
there in the other vehicle. Have you been able to make hydraulic press fixtures as needed?
"Joe Gwinn"Â wrote in message news:6l5rhihk0edk7v3ldgm81ksqvd3avr42eu@4ax.com...
I must say that if one intends to run a vehicle for that many miles,
it might be best to go to an airplane-style maintenance approach,
where all critical items are replaced on a fixed schedule chosen to
eliminate the possibility of in-service failures. There will still be surprise failures, but far less often or consequential.
Having all maintenance being scheduled allows for many economies of
time and money.
Joe Gwinn
---------------------------
I've tried that with mixed results. If the vehicle is old enough that
only aftermarket parts are available the originals may be more reliable,
the voltage regulator on my 91 Ford for example. After a spare one
failed I put the original regulator back in and just use the brushes
from replacements.
Today I replaced the entire after-cat exhaust on my Honda, though only
one pipe was bad. The OEM catcon had been replaced earlier this year
because its rear flange rotted away. What is your experience with type
409 stainless exhausts? I read that it's what factory ones are made from
and may rust on the surface, as the chromium content is lower than for 304.
On Tue, 3 Oct 2023 19:33:33 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on the
rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got worse
but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more checking
and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on the '99
4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad that it's
such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it . Whatever , I
spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced and almost all
the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff that will make it
easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one went the other
ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today ... I really can't
complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and the bearing I just
replaced was OE .
I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with
catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
I must say that if one intends to run a vehicle for that many miles,
it might be best to go to an airplane-style maintenance approach,
where all critical items are replaced on a fixed schedule chosen to
eliminate the possibility of in-service failures. There will still be surprise failures, but far less often or consequential.
Having all maintenance being scheduled allows for many economies of
time and money.
Joe Gwinn
What made this difficult is having the brake disc shield in place and no
way to remove it without destroying it . Once I got the wheel hub out of
the knuckle I could remove it for the rest of the press work .
Snag
What is your experience with type 409 stainless exhausts? I read that it's what factory ones are made from and may rust on the surface, as the
chromium content is lower than for 304.
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:ufkjun$gq84$1@dont-email.me...
What made this difficult is having the brake disc shield in place and
no way to remove it without destroying it . Once I got the wheel hub
out of the knuckle I could remove it for the rest of the press work .
Snag
The rotor dust shields on my Ford are galvanized sheet metal with the
rim flange formed with stovepipe crimping pliers.
On 10/4/2023 5:51 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:I think those bumpers would eventually self destruct if the truck
"Snag" wrote in message news:ufkjun$gq84$1@dont-email.me...
What made this difficult is having the brake disc shield in place and
no way to remove it without destroying it . Once I got the wheel hub
out of the knuckle I could remove it for the rest of the press work .
Snag
The rotor dust shields on my Ford are galvanized sheet metal with the
rim flange formed with stovepipe crimping pliers.
Mine are original , and they're pristine . This 4Runner has spent
it's entire life here in Arkansas . Only place there's excessive rust is
the rear bumper . I should replace it ...
On Wed, 4 Oct 2023 13:14:37 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
<muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
"Joe Gwinn" wrote in message >>news:6l5rhihk0edk7v3ldgm81ksqvd3avr42eu@4ax.com...
I must say that if one intends to run a vehicle for that many miles,
it might be best to go to an airplane-style maintenance approach,
where all critical items are replaced on a fixed schedule chosen to >>eliminate the possibility of in-service failures. There will still be >>surprise failures, but far less often or consequential.
Having all maintenance being scheduled allows for many economies of
time and money.
Joe Gwinn
---------------------------
I've tried that with mixed results. If the vehicle is old enough that only >>aftermarket parts are available the originals may be more reliable, the >>voltage regulator on my 91 Ford for example. After a spare one failed I put >>the original regulator back in and just use the brushes from replacements.
I didn't have that experience, but then again I gave up on my old
Volvo at 150,000 miles because things were failing faster and faster
than I could fix them.
Often the "experienced" parts last longer than the new replacementToday I replaced the entire after-cat exhaust on my Honda, though only one >>pipe was bad. The OEM catcon had been replaced earlier this year because its >>rear flange rotted away. What is your experience with type 409 stainless >>exhausts? I read that it's what factory ones are made from and may rust on >>the surface, as the chromium content is lower than for 304.
I did install the aftermarket stainless steel version of that old
Volvo's exhaust system, and it never corroded, but I don't know what
alloy it was. Hmm. I'd guess 302, which I think was invented for just
such things.
I'd bet that fatigue cracks would eventually happen, but could be
repaired by welding and annealing.
Joe Gwinn
Mine are original , and they're pristine . This 4Runner has spentI think those bumpers would eventually self destruct if the truck
it's entire life here in Arkansas . Only place there's excessive rust is
the rear bumper . I should replace it ...
On 10/3/2023 8:00 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 3 Oct 2023 19:33:33 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on theLet me guess - the right one?? Right front braring failure seems to
rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got worse >>> but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more checking
and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on the '99
4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad that it's >>> such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it . Whatever , I
spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced and almost all >>> the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff that will make it
easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one went the other
ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today ... I really can't
complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and the bearing I just
replaced was OE .
I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with
catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
be most common and at 340000 miles I'd say you were getting close to
due. On a Ford or a Chebbie you'd likely be about ready for #3 or 4
Nope, this one was on the left front . The same wheel that had a
lower ball joint failure* a couple of years ago in Memphis .
*That one was purely my fault . There were indicators of a problem that
I didn't recognize . I should have been researching the indications ...
The majority of problems I had today were from press setups . The
longer I have a hydraulic press* the more odds and ends I seem to
accumulate to make it adaptable to the task at hand . I need to add a
box for blocks etc .
*I recently upgraded the original HF 12T press with an air/hydraulic
20T bottle jack.
"Clare Snyder"Â wrote in message news:92fshilaacp08vlb4dvjhc13afpeqn8glo@4ax.com...section-saf-c-322105-wooden-bumpers
In NH a 2x6 hardwood plank or beam is acceptable as a replacement bumper.
https://casetext.com/regulation/new-hampshire-administrative-code/title-saf-department-of-safety/subtitle-saf-c-commissioner-department-of-safety/chapter-saf-c-3200-official-motor-vehicle-inspection-requirements/part-saf-c-3221-vehicle-body-or-chassis/
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> on Tue, 3 Oct 2023 20:30:51 -0500 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On 10/3/2023 8:00 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 3 Oct 2023 19:33:33 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on theLet me guess - the right one?? Right front braring failure seems to
rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got worse >>>> but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more checking >>>> and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on the '99
4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad that it's >>>> such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it . Whatever , I >>>> spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced and almost all >>>> the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff that will make it
easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one went the other
ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today ... I really can't >>>> complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and the bearing I just >>>> replaced was OE .
I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with >>>> catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
be most common and at 340000 miles I'd say you were getting close to
due. On a Ford or a Chebbie you'd likely be about ready for #3 or 4
Nope, this one was on the left front . The same wheel that had a
lower ball joint failure* a couple of years ago in Memphis .
*That one was purely my fault . There were indicators of a problem that
I didn't recognize . I should have been researching the indications ...
The majority of problems I had today were from press setups . The
longer I have a hydraulic press* the more odds and ends I seem to
accumulate to make it adaptable to the task at hand . I need to add a
box for blocks etc .
*I recently upgraded the original HF 12T press with an air/hydraulic
20T bottle jack.
Verb Sap - if the left one is going, might as well replace the
right one while you are at it.
I need some lengths of square steel bar for better press fixturing before
I do that one.
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:ufn210$13cfm$1@dont-email.me...
I need some lengths of square steel bar for better press fixturing
before I do that one.
That's difficult to find as scrap and damaging to good stock. I have a
rusty farm wagon axle that may be sacrificed, the rust pit pattern looks
more like steel than wrought iron to me, there's no sign of a grain. I
saved the main bearing caps from a scrapped Vega engine as press blocks.
Milling machine table clamp sets have parts that might serve as press
blocks.
On 10/5/2023 11:45 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:section-saf-c-322105-wooden-bumpers
"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
news:92fshilaacp08vlb4dvjhc13afpeqn8glo@4ax.com...
In NH a 2x6 hardwood plank or beam is acceptable as a replacement bumper.
https://casetext.com/regulation/new-hampshire-administrative-code/title-saf-department-of-safety/subtitle-saf-c-commissioner-department-of-safety/chapter-saf-c-3200-official-motor-vehicle-inspection-requirements/part-saf-c-3221-vehicle-body-or-chassis/
It would pass here too - but my truck is not a "junker" and I am
I ran a wooden bumper on my '58 Chevy work/play truck in Tennessee
for years without any problems . It complemented the home built wooden
flat bed quite nicely if I do say so myself .
On Thu, 5 Oct 2023 14:10:51 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:chassis/section-saf-c-322105-wooden-bumpers
On 10/5/2023 11:45 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Clare Snyder"Â wrote in message
news:92fshilaacp08vlb4dvjhc13afpeqn8glo@4ax.com...
In NH a 2x6 hardwood plank or beam is acceptable as a replacement bumper. >>>
https://casetext.com/regulation/new-hampshire-administrative-code/title-saf-department-of-safety/subtitle-saf-c-commissioner-department-of-safety/chapter-saf-c-3200-official-motor-vehicle-inspection-requirements/part-saf-c-3221-vehicle-body-or-
It would pass here too - but my truck is not a "junker" and I am
I ran a wooden bumper on my '58 Chevy work/play truck in Tennessee
for years without any problems . It complemented the home built wooden
flat bed quite nicely if I do say so myself .
attemting to keep it reasonably "original" Got the new bumper today -
ends up it is a 1997-98 bumper with the full black pad instead of the original partial grey one
On 10/5/2023 11:46 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:chassis/section-saf-c-322105-wooden-bumpers
On Thu, 5 Oct 2023 14:10:51 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/5/2023 11:45 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
news:92fshilaacp08vlb4dvjhc13afpeqn8glo@4ax.com...
In NH a 2x6 hardwood plank or beam is acceptable as a replacement bumper. >>>>
https://casetext.com/regulation/new-hampshire-administrative-code/title-saf-department-of-safety/subtitle-saf-c-commissioner-department-of-safety/chapter-saf-c-3200-official-motor-vehicle-inspection-requirements/part-saf-c-3221-vehicle-body-or-
It would pass here too - but my truck is not a "junker" and I am
I ran a wooden bumper on my '58 Chevy work/play truck in Tennessee
for years without any problems . It complemented the home built wooden
flat bed quite nicely if I do say so myself .
attemting to keep it reasonably "original" Got the new bumper today -
ends up it is a 1997-98 bumper with the full black pad instead of the
original partial grey one
After I read your last post I started looking at replacement bumpers
for the Toyota ... I was surprised that the center section is widely >available and reasonably priced . I'll probably be ordering one because
as my wife said "What's another couple hundred bucks , after all the
money you've spent on that thing it's just a drop in the bucket." And
she's right , but I now expect this SUV will outlast me .
Now that I'm sure the SUV has no more major problems I plan to work
on the truck some more . I'm eager to see what a difference swapping out
the stock 2.73 gears for 3.42's is going to make ... especially since
all the motor work was optimized for the lower gears .
 And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on the
rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got worse
but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more checking
and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on the '99
4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad that it's
such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it . Whatever , I
spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced and almost all
the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff that will make it
easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one went the other
ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today ... I really can't complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and the bearing I just replaced was OE .
 I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
2.73 gears are car gears - particularly with overdrive transmission.
3.42 is a highway gear for a truck. I like the 3.55 gearing on my
Ranger. Occaisionally wish there was another gear on the highway, but
then I look at the speedo and back off the throttle a little - - -
Mine is the second pickup of that era that I have noted runs that
high gearing . I think it might have been a mileage thing . I just know
that up here in the Ozarks that's too tall .
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 07:02:57 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:chassis/section-saf-c-322105-wooden-bumpers
On 10/5/2023 11:46 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 5 Oct 2023 14:10:51 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/5/2023 11:45 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Clare Snyder"Â wrote in message
news:92fshilaacp08vlb4dvjhc13afpeqn8glo@4ax.com...
In NH a 2x6 hardwood plank or beam is acceptable as a replacement bumper. >>>>>
https://casetext.com/regulation/new-hampshire-administrative-code/title-saf-department-of-safety/subtitle-saf-c-commissioner-department-of-safety/chapter-saf-c-3200-official-motor-vehicle-inspection-requirements/part-saf-c-3221-vehicle-body-or-
It would pass here too - but my truck is not a "junker" and I am
I ran a wooden bumper on my '58 Chevy work/play truck in Tennessee >>>> for years without any problems . It complemented the home built wooden >>>> flat bed quite nicely if I do say so myself .
attemting to keep it reasonably "original" Got the new bumper today -
ends up it is a 1997-98 bumper with the full black pad instead of the
original partial grey one
After I read your last post I started looking at replacement bumpers
for the Toyota ... I was surprised that the center section is widely
available and reasonably priced . I'll probably be ordering one because
as my wife said "What's another couple hundred bucks , after all the
money you've spent on that thing it's just a drop in the bucket." And
she's right , but I now expect this SUV will outlast me .
Now that I'm sure the SUV has no more major problems I plan to work
on the truck some more . I'm eager to see what a difference swapping out
the stock 2.73 gears for 3.42's is going to make ... especially since
all the motor work was optimized for the lower gears .
2.73 gears are car gears - particularly with overdrive transmission.
3.42 is a highway gear for a truck. I like the 3.55 gearing on my
Ranger. Occaisionally wish there was another gear on the highway, but
then I look at the speedo and back off the throttle a little - - -
On 10/3/2023 5:33 PM, Snag wrote:
  And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on the
rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got
worse but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more
checking and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on
the '99 4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad
that it's such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it .
Whatever , I spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced
and almost all the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff
that will make it easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one
went the other ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today
... I really can't complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and
the bearing I just replaced was OE .
  I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with
catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
Be glad its not a "newer" Silverado HD. You don't swap the bearing. You replace the wheel hub assembly.
I kept one planning to see if I could reverse engineer swapping the
bearing, but I got tired of stubbing my toe on it.
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 15:44:31 -0500A 6.2 oil burner has enough torque to handle 3.08 gears - but as you
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
2.73 gears are car gears - particularly with overdrive transmission.
3.42 is a highway gear for a truck. I like the 3.55 gearing on my
Ranger. Occaisionally wish there was another gear on the highway, but
then I look at the speedo and back off the throttle a little - - -
Mine is the second pickup of that era that I have noted runs that
high gearing . I think it might have been a mileage thing . I just know >>that up here in the Ozarks that's too tall .
My old 1982 K10 4x4 with the 6.2L Diesel and 700R4 had .308 diffs?
Neighbor bought it a couple years ago now. It's still going, nearly
everyday to his work and back. Had to get the Torque converter rebuilt
last June or so. That made Torque number 2 it twisted out inside...
On 10/6/2023 10:03 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:chassis/section-saf-c-322105-wooden-bumpers
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 07:02:57 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/5/2023 11:46 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 5 Oct 2023 14:10:51 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/5/2023 11:45 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Clare Snyder" wrote in message
news:92fshilaacp08vlb4dvjhc13afpeqn8glo@4ax.com...
In NH a 2x6 hardwood plank or beam is acceptable as a replacement bumper.
https://casetext.com/regulation/new-hampshire-administrative-code/title-saf-department-of-safety/subtitle-saf-c-commissioner-department-of-safety/chapter-saf-c-3200-official-motor-vehicle-inspection-requirements/part-saf-c-3221-vehicle-body-or-
With under 6 liters that's too tall ANYWHERE there are hills IF youIt would pass here too - but my truck is not a "junker" and I am
I ran a wooden bumper on my '58 Chevy work/play truck in Tennessee >>>>> for years without any problems . It complemented the home built wooden >>>>> flat bed quite nicely if I do say so myself .
attemting to keep it reasonably "original" Got the new bumper today -
ends up it is a 1997-98 bumper with the full black pad instead of the
original partial grey one
After I read your last post I started looking at replacement bumpers
for the Toyota ... I was surprised that the center section is widely
available and reasonably priced . I'll probably be ordering one because
as my wife said "What's another couple hundred bucks , after all the
money you've spent on that thing it's just a drop in the bucket." And
she's right , but I now expect this SUV will outlast me .
Now that I'm sure the SUV has no more major problems I plan to work
on the truck some more . I'm eager to see what a difference swapping out >>> the stock 2.73 gears for 3.42's is going to make ... especially since
all the motor work was optimized for the lower gears .
2.73 gears are car gears - particularly with overdrive transmission.
3.42 is a highway gear for a truck. I like the 3.55 gearing on my
Ranger. Occaisionally wish there was another gear on the highway, but
then I look at the speedo and back off the throttle a little - - -
Mine is the second pickup of that era that I have noted runs that
high gearing . I think it might have been a mileage thing . I just know
that up here in the Ozarks that's too tall .
On 10/6/2023 11:49 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:I've seen those axles spray welded and re-ground and actually WORK.
On 10/3/2023 5:33 PM, Snag wrote:
And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on the
rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got
worse but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more
checking and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on
the '99 4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad
that it's such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it .
Whatever , I spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced
and almost all the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff
that will make it easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one
went the other ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today
... I really can't complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and
the bearing I just replaced was OE .
I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with
catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
Be glad its not a "newer" Silverado HD. You don't swap the bearing. You
replace the wheel hub assembly.
I kept one planning to see if I could reverse engineer swapping the
bearing, but I got tired of stubbing my toe on it.
I had a guy one time ask me to weld up and regrind the needle bearing
location on a Chevy pickup rear axle . I had to explain to him that the
axle was a tempered steel unit and that there were many reasons that
what he wanted just wasn't going to work . I think I heard him mutter
under his breath as he was leaving something about he was going to find >someone that could . I almost hoped he would , and that I'd come across
him standing by his truck on the side of the road .
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 17:03:15 -0400, Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid>
wrote:
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 15:44:31 -0500A 6.2 oil burner has enough torque to handle 3.08 gears - but as you
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
2.73 gears are car gears - particularly with overdrive transmission.
3.42 is a highway gear for a truck. I like the 3.55 gearing on my
Ranger. Occaisionally wish there was another gear on the highway, but
then I look at the speedo and back off the throttle a little - - -
Mine is the second pickup of that era that I have noted runs that
high gearing . I think it might have been a mileage thing . I just know
that up here in the Ozarks that's too tall .
My old 1982 K10 4x4 with the 6.2L Diesel and 700R4 had .308 diffs?
Neighbor bought it a couple years ago now. It's still going, nearly
everyday to his work and back. Had to get the Torque converter rebuilt
last June or so. That made Torque number 2 it twisted out inside...
found it also has enough torque to demolish the converter. Steeper
gearing lowers the required input torque for a given load.
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 15:44:31 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:chassis/section-saf-c-322105-wooden-bumpers
On 10/6/2023 10:03 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 07:02:57 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/5/2023 11:46 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 5 Oct 2023 14:10:51 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/5/2023 11:45 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Clare Snyder"Â wrote in message
news:92fshilaacp08vlb4dvjhc13afpeqn8glo@4ax.com...
In NH a 2x6 hardwood plank or beam is acceptable as a replacement bumper.
https://casetext.com/regulation/new-hampshire-administrative-code/title-saf-department-of-safety/subtitle-saf-c-commissioner-department-of-safety/chapter-saf-c-3200-official-motor-vehicle-inspection-requirements/part-saf-c-3221-vehicle-body-or-
With under 6 liters that's too tall ANYWHERE there are hills IF youIt would pass here too - but my truck is not a "junker" and I am >>>>> attemting to keep it reasonably "original" Got the new bumper today - >>>>> ends up it is a 1997-98 bumper with the full black pad instead of the >>>>> original partial grey one
I ran a wooden bumper on my '58 Chevy work/play truck in Tennessee >>>>>> for years without any problems . It complemented the home built wooden >>>>>> flat bed quite nicely if I do say so myself .
After I read your last post I started looking at replacement bumpers >>>> for the Toyota ... I was surprised that the center section is widely
available and reasonably priced . I'll probably be ordering one because >>>> as my wife said "What's another couple hundred bucks , after all the
money you've spent on that thing it's just a drop in the bucket." And
she's right , but I now expect this SUV will outlast me .
Now that I'm sure the SUV has no more major problems I plan to work >>>> on the truck some more . I'm eager to see what a difference swapping out >>>> the stock 2.73 gears for 3.42's is going to make ... especially since
all the motor work was optimized for the lower gears .
2.73 gears are car gears - particularly with overdrive transmission.
3.42 is a highway gear for a truck. I like the 3.55 gearing on my
Ranger. Occaisionally wish there was another gear on the highway, but
then I look at the speedo and back off the throttle a little - - -
Mine is the second pickup of that era that I have noted runs that
high gearing . I think it might have been a mileage thing . I just know
that up here in the Ozarks that's too tall .
intend to use it as a "truck"
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 19:27:26 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/6/2023 11:49 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:I've seen those axles spray welded and re-ground and actually WORK.
On 10/3/2023 5:33 PM, Snag wrote:
  And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on the >>>> rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got
worse but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more
checking and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on
the '99 4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad >>>> that it's such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it .
Whatever , I spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced >>>> and almost all the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff
that will make it easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one >>>> went the other ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today
... I really can't complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and >>>> the bearing I just replaced was OE .
  I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with >>>> catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and
back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
Be glad its not a "newer" Silverado HD. You don't swap the bearing. You >>> replace the wheel hub assembly.
I kept one planning to see if I could reverse engineer swapping the
bearing, but I got tired of stubbing my toe on it.
I had a guy one time ask me to weld up and regrind the needle bearing
location on a Chevy pickup rear axle . I had to explain to him that the
axle was a tempered steel unit and that there were many reasons that
what he wanted just wasn't going to work . I think I heard him mutter
under his breath as he was leaving something about he was going to find
someone that could . I almost hoped he would , and that I'd come across
him standing by his truck on the side of the road .
Likely cheaper to get a new axle - particularly now that custom 3rd
party axles are readily available - but 60 years ago it made sense to "rebuild" them
I figured that since that part of the axle is the inner race for that
needle bearing mild steel weldment wasn't going to last long .
A 6.2 oil burner has enough torque to handle 3.08 gears - but as you
found it also has enough torque to demolish the converter. Steeper
gearing lowers the required input torque for a given load.
A 700R4 trans question . Any idea which wire coming out of the
converter lock vacuum switch energizes the lockup ? I don't think mine
is locking up , the RPM's should hold steady with minor throttle
variations and it doesn't . I want to put a voltmeter or a light bulb
on it while driving on level road at a steady speed to check it .
On 10/6/2023 9:56 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 17:03:15 -0400, Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid>
wrote:
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 15:44:31 -0500A 6.2 oil burner has enough torque to handle 3.08 gears - but as you
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
2.73 gears are car gears - particularly with overdrive transmission. >>>>> 3.42 is a highway gear for a truck. I like the 3.55 gearing on my
Ranger. Occaisionally wish there was another gear on the highway, but >>>>> then I look at the speedo and back off the throttle a little - - -
Mine is the second pickup of that era that I have noted runs that
high gearing . I think it might have been a mileage thing . I just know >>>> that up here in the Ozarks that's too tall .
My old 1982 K10 4x4 with the 6.2L Diesel and 700R4 had .308 diffs?
Neighbor bought it a couple years ago now. It's still going, nearly
everyday to his work and back. Had to get the Torque converter rebuilt
last June or so. That made Torque number 2 it twisted out inside...
found it also has enough torque to demolish the converter. Steeper
gearing lowers the required input torque for a given load.
You want to reconsider that last statement Clare ? I think you might
have it backward on that one .
At 5:1 1 ft/lb in gets 5 ft/lb out . ToIs the TCC vac switch a 2 wire or 3 wire?. If 2 wire just connect a
get 5 out at 4: you need 1.25 in .
A 700R4 trans question . Any idea which wire coming out of the
converter lock vacuum switch energizes the lockup ? I don't think mine
is locking up , the RPM's should hold steady with minor throttle
variations and it doesn't . I want to put a voltmeter or a light bulb
on it while driving on level road at a steady speed to check it .
On 10/6/2023 9:59 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:GM doesn't think so either which is why they used a ROLLER bearing -
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 19:27:26 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/6/2023 11:49 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:I've seen those axles spray welded and re-ground and actually WORK.
On 10/3/2023 5:33 PM, Snag wrote:
And for a while now I thought it was a worn rubber bushing on the >>>>> rear axle lateral stabilizer rod because when I turned left it got
worse but on right curves it disappeared . But today I did some more >>>>> checking and it was in fact a worn front wheel bearing . This is on
the '99 4Runner , and I'm glad I finally figured it out . I'm not glad >>>>> that it's such a bitch to disassemble the damn thing to replace it . >>>>> Whatever , I spent the afternoon working on it , and I got it replaced >>>>> and almost all the way back together . I'm going to buy some stuff
that will make it easier to do the other front wheel , I figure if one >>>>> went the other ain't far behind . I bought the parts for both today
... I really can't complain , this unit has over 348,000 miles now and >>>>> the bearing I just replaced was OE .
I shudder at the thought that damn thing might have come apart with >>>>> catastrophic results on the road ... we drove that SUV to Memphis and >>>>> back over the weekend , a total of almost 400 miles .
Be glad its not a "newer" Silverado HD. You don't swap the bearing. You >>>> replace the wheel hub assembly.
I kept one planning to see if I could reverse engineer swapping the
bearing, but I got tired of stubbing my toe on it.
I had a guy one time ask me to weld up and regrind the needle bearing >>> location on a Chevy pickup rear axle . I had to explain to him that the
axle was a tempered steel unit and that there were many reasons that
what he wanted just wasn't going to work . I think I heard him mutter
under his breath as he was leaving something about he was going to find
someone that could . I almost hoped he would , and that I'd come across
him standing by his truck on the side of the road .
Likely cheaper to get a new axle - particularly now that custom 3rd
party axles are readily available - but 60 years ago it made sense to
"rebuild" them
I figured that since that part of the axle is the inner race for that
needle bearing mild steel weldment wasn't going to last long . This was
the second go-round , he'd worn out both the original bearing and an
offset bearing . IMO a needle bearing in that location on a truck isn't
a very good idea .
On Fri, 06 Oct 2023 22:56:25 -0400Forgot which oil burner you were laking about, The 387 Detroit was
Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca> wrote:
<snip>
A 6.2 oil burner has enough torque to handle 3.08 gears - but as you
found it also has enough torque to demolish the converter. Steeper
gearing lowers the required input torque for a given load.
It's can't hold 60mph in overdrive (4th) on just a moderate incline. It
won't hold in 3rd gear on a substantial highway incline. I just got
used to speeding up before hills and letting it fall back to 40-45mph at
the crest to keep it in overdrive. Top speed was maybe 90mph in 3rd.
It's only rated at 130hp, badly made torque converters in my opinion...
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 22:48:57 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
A 700R4 trans question . Any idea which wire coming out of the
converter lock vacuum switch energizes the lockup ? I don't think mine
is locking up , the RPM's should hold steady with minor throttle
variations and it doesn't . I want to put a voltmeter or a light bulb
on it while driving on level road at a steady speed to check it .
Converter lock is done via oil pressure being switched to it by solenoid
in the tranny. There is a throttle position switch (was on right side
of my injector pump) somewhere on your carb/injector body that tracks >throttle position. Take your foot off the gas it unlocks. It also goes >through the brake pedal switch. Step on the brake, it unlocks. Another
switch in tranny that won't allow it to lock till its in at least 2nd
gear.
You probably need the wiring diagram to track it down effectively.
Don't I remember you installing a different intake/carb setup on this?An extra heavy duty tranny fluid converter is ALWAYS a good idea on a
Did you transfer over the throttle position sensor for it?
Dealership thought it would run hot without the torque locking up on
long drives...
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:ufql6f$25n8q$1@dont-email.me...
 I figured that since that part of the axle is the inner race for that needle bearing mild steel weldment wasn't going to last long . This was
the second go-round , he'd worn out both the original bearing and an
offset bearing . IMO a needle bearing in that location on a truck isn't
a very good idea .
Snag
-------------------------------
The Navy had a metal spraying rig meant to repair worn shaft journals on ships at sea. I think it deposited nickel that wasn't as durable as the original.
I rebuilt the battered tip of a splitting maul with weld, either MIG or hardface stick, I considered both and have forgotten which I used, and
it's held up well. Unlike an axle it was easy to grind to acceptable
shape. My grandmother had asked my uncle to remove a bothersome high
lump on their granite entry step and he decided that wrecking a tool was safer and better than displeasing his strict mother. Granite rejects
were common and cheap or free there, the quarry was visible from the house.
Needle bearings made from pipe and welding rod have worked well for me
on low speed yard equipment and my sawmill. The races for DIY ball
thrust bearings can be turned with the sharpened back end of a carbide
drill bit held slightly off vertical. HSS bits are soft in that area.
On Sat, 7 Oct 2023 08:46:40 -0400, Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid>
wrote:
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 22:48:57 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
A 700R4 trans question . Any idea which wire coming out of the
converter lock vacuum switch energizes the lockup ? I don't think mine
is locking up , the RPM's should hold steady with minor throttle
variations and it doesn't . I want to put a voltmeter or a light bulb
on it while driving on level road at a steady speed to check it .
Converter lock is done via oil pressure being switched to it by solenoid
in the tranny. There is a throttle position switch (was on right side
of my injector pump) somewhere on your carb/injector body that tracks
throttle position. Take your foot off the gas it unlocks. It also goes
through the brake pedal switch. Step on the brake, it unlocks. Another
switch in tranny that won't allow it to lock till its in at least 2nd
gear.
You probably need the wiring diagram to track it down effectively.
On a gas truck it has a vac switch inplace of the throttle position
switch. Most common problem with no lockup was a cracked vac hose
IIRC.
An extra heavy duty tranny fluid converter is ALWAYS a good idea on a
Don't I remember you installing a different intake/carb setup on this?
Did you transfer over the throttle position sensor for it?
Dealership thought it would run hot without the torque locking up on
long drives...
truck with an automatic - especially if it has a lockup converter that
may or may not be locking optimally.
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 23:01:19 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
GM doesn't think so either which is why they used a ROLLER bearing -
I figured that since that part of the axle is the inner race for that
needle bearing mild steel weldment wasn't going to last long . This was
the second go-round , he'd worn out both the original bearing and an
offset bearing . IMO a needle bearing in that location on a truck isn't
a very good idea .
- - -- - It DID make pulling axles and changing grease seals pretty
simple though compared to using ball bearings. - and if they were not
runlow on oil or half filled with water they DID last almost forever.
The bearing contact surface was something like 10 times the contact
surface of a ball bearing
On 10/7/2023 4:22 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 7 Oct 2023 08:46:40 -0400, Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid>
wrote:
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 22:48:57 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
A 700R4 trans question . Any idea which wire coming out of the
converter lock vacuum switch energizes the lockup ? I don't think mine >>>> is locking up , the RPM's should hold steady with minor throttle
variations and it doesn't . I want to put a voltmeter or a light bulb >>>> on it while driving on level road at a steady speed to check it .
Converter lock is done via oil pressure being switched to it by solenoid >>> in the tranny. There is a throttle position switch (was on right side
of my injector pump) somewhere on your carb/injector body that tracks
throttle position. Take your foot off the gas it unlocks. It also goes
through the brake pedal switch. Step on the brake, it unlocks. Another
switch in tranny that won't allow it to lock till its in at least 2nd
gear.
You probably need the wiring diagram to track it down effectively.
On a gas truck it has a vac switch inplace of the throttle position
switch. Most common problem with no lockup was a cracked vac hose
IIRC.
Yes I have the vacuum switch . I'm trying to figure out which wire
"goes hot" when the converter is supposed to lock . I know for a fact it
was working before the rebuild . The solenoid was bad , it's wired on
the same fuse as the radio (odd , ennit?) and every time it would try to
lock it'd blow the fuse and kill the radio . The trans has been rebuilt
with a new solenoid and many other parts including a shift kit . I'll be >checking that hose ... But not tomorrow . Tomorrow I'll be replacing the >bearing on the other front wheel . Should be easier than the first ,
I've gotten some better press blocks now .
An extra heavy duty tranny fluid converter is ALWAYS a good idea on a
Don't I remember you installing a different intake/carb setup on this?
Did you transfer over the throttle position sensor for it?
Dealership thought it would run hot without the torque locking up on
long drives...
truck with an automatic - especially if it has a lockup converter that
may or may not be locking optimally.
I don't know if the converter is a heavy duty unit , I do know it's
been rebuilt . I needed to add .125" spacers between it and the flywheel
to get proper pump drive engagement .
On 10/7/2023 4:11 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:I have an old (1957) lawn mower and an old toy "express" wagon that
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 23:01:19 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
GM doesn't think so either which is why they used a ROLLER bearing -
I figured that since that part of the axle is the inner race for that >>> needle bearing mild steel weldment wasn't going to last long . This was
the second go-round , he'd worn out both the original bearing and an
offset bearing . IMO a needle bearing in that location on a truck isn't
a very good idea .
- - -- - It DID make pulling axles and changing grease seals pretty
simple though compared to using ball bearings. - and if they were not
runlow on oil or half filled with water they DID last almost forever.
The bearing contact surface was something like 10 times the contact
surface of a ball bearing
I didn't get to see the bearing , just the axle and the dude called
it a needle bearing . I just knew that I'm not equipped to repair a
hardened bearing surface properly .
On 10/7/2023 7:13 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:The "race" portion of Chevy axles were what I've seen welded and
"Snag" wrote in message news:ufql6f$25n8q$1@dont-email.me...
I figured that since that part of the axle is the inner race for that
needle bearing mild steel weldment wasn't going to last long . This was
the second go-round , he'd worn out both the original bearing and an
offset bearing . IMO a needle bearing in that location on a truck isn't
a very good idea .
Snag
-------------------------------
The Navy had a metal spraying rig meant to repair worn shaft journals on
ships at sea. I think it deposited nickel that wasn't as durable as the
original.
I rebuilt the battered tip of a splitting maul with weld, either MIG or
hardface stick, I considered both and have forgotten which I used, and
it's held up well. Unlike an axle it was easy to grind to acceptable
shape. My grandmother had asked my uncle to remove a bothersome high
lump on their granite entry step and he decided that wrecking a tool was
safer and better than displeasing his strict mother. Granite rejects
were common and cheap or free there, the quarry was visible from the house. >>
Needle bearings made from pipe and welding rod have worked well for me
on low speed yard equipment and my sawmill. The races for DIY ball
thrust bearings can be turned with the sharpened back end of a carbide
drill bit held slightly off vertical. HSS bits are soft in that area.
In this case the axle itself was the inner race . Those shafts y'all
spray welded up probably carried an inner race as part of the bearing .
On Sat, 7 Oct 2023 19:38:55 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 10/7/2023 4:22 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 7 Oct 2023 08:46:40 -0400, Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid>
wrote:
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 22:48:57 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
A 700R4 trans question . Any idea which wire coming out of the
converter lock vacuum switch energizes the lockup ? I don't think mine >>>>> is locking up , the RPM's should hold steady with minor throttle
variations and it doesn't . I want to put a voltmeter or a light bulb >>>>> on it while driving on level road at a steady speed to check it .
Converter lock is done via oil pressure being switched to it by solenoid >>>> in the tranny. There is a throttle position switch (was on right side
of my injector pump) somewhere on your carb/injector body that tracks
throttle position. Take your foot off the gas it unlocks. It also goes >>>> through the brake pedal switch. Step on the brake, it unlocks. Another >>>> switch in tranny that won't allow it to lock till its in at least 2nd
gear.
You probably need the wiring diagram to track it down effectively.
On a gas truck it has a vac switch inplace of the throttle position
switch. Most common problem with no lockup was a cracked vac hose
IIRC.
Yes I have the vacuum switch . I'm trying to figure out which wire
"goes hot" when the converter is supposed to lock . I know for a fact it
was working before the rebuild . The solenoid was bad , it's wired on
the same fuse as the radio (odd , ennit?) and every time it would try to
lock it'd blow the fuse and kill the radio . The trans has been rebuilt
with a new solenoid and many other parts including a shift kit . I'll be
checking that hose ... But not tomorrow . Tomorrow I'll be replacing the
bearing on the other front wheel . Should be easier than the first ,
I've gotten some better press blocks now .
An extra heavy duty tranny fluid converter is ALWAYS a good idea on a >>> truck with an automatic - especially if it has a lockup converter that
Don't I remember you installing a different intake/carb setup on this? >>>> Did you transfer over the throttle position sensor for it?
Dealership thought it would run hot without the torque locking up on
long drives...
may or may not be locking optimally.
I don't know if the converter is a heavy duty unit , I do know it's
been rebuilt . I needed to add .125" spacers between it and the flywheel
to get proper pump drive engagement .
Correction - that was supposed to read "extra heavy duty tranny fluid COOLER"!!!!!
On 10/7/2023 4:22 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:Get your ohm meter. Disconnect the plug from the vac switch. Check
On Sat, 7 Oct 2023 08:46:40 -0400, Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid>
wrote:
On Fri, 6 Oct 2023 22:48:57 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
A 700R4 trans question . Any idea which wire coming out of the
converter lock vacuum switch energizes the lockup ? I don't think mine >>>> is locking up , the RPM's should hold steady with minor throttle
variations and it doesn't . I want to put a voltmeter or a light bulb >>>> on it while driving on level road at a steady speed to check it .
Converter lock is done via oil pressure being switched to it by solenoid >>> in the tranny. There is a throttle position switch (was on right side
of my injector pump) somewhere on your carb/injector body that tracks
throttle position. Take your foot off the gas it unlocks. It also goes
through the brake pedal switch. Step on the brake, it unlocks. Another
switch in tranny that won't allow it to lock till its in at least 2nd
gear.
You probably need the wiring diagram to track it down effectively.
On a gas truck it has a vac switch inplace of the throttle position
switch. Most common problem with no lockup was a cracked vac hose
IIRC.
Yes I have the vacuum switch . I'm trying to figure out which wire
"goes hot" when the converter is supposed to lock . I know for a fact it
was working before the rebuild . The solenoid was bad , it's wired on
the same fuse as the radio (odd , ennit?) and every time it would try to
lock it'd blow the fuse and kill the radio . The trans has been rebuilt
with a new solenoid and many other parts including a shift kit . I'll be >checking that hose ... But not tomorrow . Tomorrow I'll be replacing the >bearing on the other front wheel . Should be easier than the first ,
I've gotten some better press blocks now .
An extra heavy duty tranny fluid converter is ALWAYS a good idea on a
Don't I remember you installing a different intake/carb setup on this?
Did you transfer over the throttle position sensor for it?
Dealership thought it would run hot without the torque locking up on
long drives...
truck with an automatic - especially if it has a lockup converter that
may or may not be locking optimally.
I don't know if the converter is a heavy duty unit , I do know it's
been rebuilt . I needed to add .125" spacers between it and the flywheel
to get proper pump drive engagement .
- the shops they worked in are long gone and the machinery may no
longer exist. They used to do crankshafts and camshafts too - and
nitride all kinds of parts (TuffTride) - still a place here in
Kitchener that does that - Plasma nitriding.
On Sat, 7 Oct 2023 08:35:14 -0400, Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid>
wrote:
On Fri, 06 Oct 2023 22:56:25 -0400[...]
Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca> wrote:
<snip>
Forgot which oil burner you were laking about, The 387 Detroit was
It's can't hold 60mph in overdrive (4th) on just a moderate incline. It >>won't hold in 3rd gear on a substantial highway incline. I just got
used to speeding up before hills and letting it fall back to 40-45mph at >>the crest to keep it in overdrive. Top speed was maybe 90mph in 3rd.
It's only rated at 130hp, badly made torque converters in my opinion...
pretty anemic, particularly in stock form - and the highway geare they
put on them for fuel economy didn't help ANYTHING. They WERE part of
the problem with the torque converters though. Steeper gears unload
the converter making them last a lot longer.
Those things were "flatlanders"
| Sysop: | Keyop |
|---|---|
| Location: | Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK |
| Users: | 508 |
| Nodes: | 16 (0 / 16) |
| Uptime: | 242:30:23 |
| Calls: | 9,986 |
| Calls today: | 4 |
| Files: | 13,836 |
| Messages: | 6,358,644 |