A little more work in some ways , a lot easier in others.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:umq0d2$1cqhf$1@dont-email.me...
On 12/30/2023 1:34 PM, Snag wrote:
A little more work in some ways , a lot easier in others.
Yep... if I ever have to install a lift pump in a 90s 3/4 ton Cummins
Dodge pickup again I am just going to take the bed off the truck.
Dropping the tank and getting it back in place is a crazy pain in the butt.... and I wound up dropping the tank three times.
Bob La Londe
------------------------------------
The bed has been off my 1991 Ranger many times. I cut a 2x6 to catch the inner lip of the sides and put a used (straightened) house electric drop eyebolt in the center. The shop crane rolls under either the side or end
far enough to hook the eyebolt with the boom retracted. The bed is light enough to turn upside down to repair lower edge rust easily. A few years
ago I removed the gas tank and replaced the brake line that ran past it
with NiCopp, the fuel pump, level sender and fuel filter, and greased
the replacement U joints, all done easily from above. With practice and
lubed threads removing the bed takes only about ten minutes.
It helps a lot that older Ranger beds bolt on from above. I use the
bolts to attach the jib crane mount. My logging trailer isn't heavy or
stable enough to benefit from the crane but it was a great help for
winching logs back to the truck, over the slash and skidder wheel ruts
that blocked using a wheelbarrow. https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Remove-Rusted-or-Seized-Truck-Bed-Bolts/
On Sat, 30 Dec 2023 21:58:55 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2023 5:36 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:Definitely spring for the posi - it will go almost anywhere a 4wd
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:umq0d2$1cqhf$1@dont-email.me...
On 12/30/2023 1:34 PM, Snag wrote:
A little more work in some ways , a lot easier in others.
Yep... if I ever have to install a lift pump in a 90s 3/4 ton Cummins
Dodge pickup again I am just going to take the bed off the truck.
Dropping the tank and getting it back in place is a crazy pain in the
butt.... and I wound up dropping the tank three times.
Bob La Londe
------------------------------------
The bed has been off my 1991 Ranger many times. I cut a 2x6 to catch the >>> inner lip of the sides and put a used (straightened) house electric drop >>> eyebolt in the center. The shop crane rolls under either the side or end >>> far enough to hook the eyebolt with the boom retracted. The bed is light >>> enough to turn upside down to repair lower edge rust easily. A few years >>> ago I removed the gas tank and replaced the brake line that ran past it
with NiCopp, the fuel pump, level sender and fuel filter, and greased
the replacement U joints, all done easily from above. With practice and
lubed threads removing the bed takes only about ten minutes.
It helps a lot that older Ranger beds bolt on from above. I use the
bolts to attach the jib crane mount. My logging trailer isn't heavy or
stable enough to benefit from the crane but it was a great help for
winching logs back to the truck, over the slash and skidder wheel ruts
that blocked using a wheelbarrow.
https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Remove-Rusted-or-Seized-Truck-Bed-Bolts/
I seriously considered pulling the bed , but I don't really have the
lifting equipment for that . After checking what that bed weighs - less
than I thought - I may revisit that idea . It would definitely make part
of the exhaust work easier . Still plan to do the gear swap inside though .
without posi will go.. Takes a bit of getting used to though - you no
longer have a "rudder" when the wheels break loose and you MIGHT find yourself getting crosswize occaisionally untill you get used to it - particularly on an unloaded pick'm-up. I have posi on the Ranger but
also a fiberglass cap and bed liner to hold the backside down a bit.
Mixed blessing if you get it rotating thogh because there is a larger
moment coaxing it out of line!!
On 12/30/2023 5:36 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:Definitely spring for the posi - it will go almost anywhere a 4wd
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:umq0d2$1cqhf$1@dont-email.me...
On 12/30/2023 1:34 PM, Snag wrote:
A little more work in some ways , a lot easier in others.
Yep... if I ever have to install a lift pump in a 90s 3/4 ton Cummins
Dodge pickup again I am just going to take the bed off the truck.
Dropping the tank and getting it back in place is a crazy pain in the
butt.... and I wound up dropping the tank three times.
Bob La Londe
------------------------------------
The bed has been off my 1991 Ranger many times. I cut a 2x6 to catch the
inner lip of the sides and put a used (straightened) house electric drop
eyebolt in the center. The shop crane rolls under either the side or end
far enough to hook the eyebolt with the boom retracted. The bed is light
enough to turn upside down to repair lower edge rust easily. A few years
ago I removed the gas tank and replaced the brake line that ran past it
with NiCopp, the fuel pump, level sender and fuel filter, and greased
the replacement U joints, all done easily from above. With practice and
lubed threads removing the bed takes only about ten minutes.
It helps a lot that older Ranger beds bolt on from above. I use the
bolts to attach the jib crane mount. My logging trailer isn't heavy or
stable enough to benefit from the crane but it was a great help for
winching logs back to the truck, over the slash and skidder wheel ruts
that blocked using a wheelbarrow.
https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Remove-Rusted-or-Seized-Truck-Bed-Bolts/
I seriously considered pulling the bed , but I don't really have the
lifting equipment for that . After checking what that bed weighs - less
than I thought - I may revisit that idea . It would definitely make part
of the exhaust work easier . Still plan to do the gear swap inside though .
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:umqou0$1kcbj$1@dont-email.me...
 I seriously considered pulling the bed , but I don't really have the lifting equipment for that . After checking what that bed weighs - less
than I thought - I may revisit that idea . It would definitely make part
of the exhaust work easier . Still plan to do the gear swap inside though . Snag
-------------------------------
A neighbor fastened a plank between two forest trees to lift heavy
equipment on and off trucks with a chainfall. 1 ton has proven to be a
handy size, 2 tons is much slower and a lot of awkward weight to hang up
with one hand while on a ladder. I store them in unbreakable rubber farm buckets that are easy to carry and they keep the hand chain out of the dirt/mud in use. Both are imports similar to the ones HF sells and have
given no trouble. I've loaded the 1 ton to its rating and the 2 ton to
at least 2800 Lbs, likely much more.
I move the bed off the truck but except for not being street legal the bed-less truck could be driven to a more convenient place to work on it.
On mine removing three screws disconnects the gas filler from the bed
and the locking cap can stay on to keep water out and gas in. There is
one lighting connector behind the bumper that's accessible with the bed slightly lifted. If the bed was left hanging outdoors I'd put sawhorses
under the front to keep it raised enough to not fill with rain water. A
board on the frame between the bed and cab will protect the paint from scratches.
My shop crane is a commercial one that was easy to modify into a towable off-pavement trailer. The mast end caster is a trailer tongue jack with
added wheels and a tow bar for manhandling on an extended axle. I don't
know how well the HF shop crane would do for this. https://ibid.illinois.gov/item.php?id=169461
I paid $100 for it at a local auction. The boom extension was bent and wouldn't retract so I turned it over, chained it to the legs and
straightened it. It's hoisted some V8s and engine-powered welders for neighbors.
I'll have to figure out where the wiring plug is but I
think it's at the rear of the bed . I still think I'm going to pull the
axle and work on it inside the shop . And having the bed off will make
it a lot less work to do the remaining welding on the exhaust system
without removing it from the truck . Six of one and half a dozen of the
other , either way I think this is going to have the truck down for a
month or more . What the hell , I did without a truck for five years ...
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:ums344$1p9re$1@dont-email.me...
 I have the A frame that I used to pull the motor and a pair of cable hoists ... I was thinking about this early this morning while the dog
was trying to get me out of bed ... I can use one hoist on each side and
4 of my ratchet straps (one on each corner) to pick the bed up high
enough to drive out from under it . I was surprised to find the bed
weight is around 500 pounds or a bit more , I thought it was more like
1000 pounds . I'll have to figure out where the wiring plug is but I
think it's at the rear of the bed . I still think I'm going to pull the
axle and work on it inside the shop . And having the bed off will make
it a lot less work to do the remaining welding on the exhaust system
without removing it from the truck . Six of one and half a dozen of the
other , either way I think this is going to have the truck down for a
month or more . What the hell , I did without a truck for five years ...
Snag
------------------------------------------
The tricky part is aligning the bolt holes when you reinstall it, there
isn't much to go by from above except lining the bed up to the cab.
However it's suspended, it should be fairly free to swing or turn in all directions and be lowered and raised a little at a time.
If the A frame is 2" pipe, strap clamps for 2-3/8" chain link fence
posts should fit it to let you tie the two widely spread feet together.
They need to be further apart to lift the bed clear of the frame than to
pull an engine. I didn't use mine to lift the bed because the heavy
pipes are too liable to be dropped while trying to set them up. The
hoist for a 2" pipe frame can be a boat trailer winch attached to the
pipe with muffler clamps.
While I had the bed off I bolted tie down eyes to the web of the frame
below the cab-bed gap.
On Sun, 31 Dec 2023 09:58:57 -0600
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
I'll have to figure out where the wiring plug is but I
think it's at the rear of the bed . I still think I'm going to pull the
axle and work on it inside the shop . And having the bed off will make
it a lot less work to do the remaining welding on the exhaust system
without removing it from the truck . Six of one and half a dozen of the
other , either way I think this is going to have the truck down for a
month or more . What the hell , I did without a truck for five years ...
See if this image helps with wiring:
https://i.postimg.cc/9QWw5ry7/1986-Chevy-Fleetside-Harness.png
Also give your fuel tank/s a hard look. I changed out one of mine from
below and cutting an access hole in the bed for hoses/wires. It was a
pain but far easier than taking the bed off...
On 12/30/2023 9:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 30 Dec 2023 21:58:55 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2023 5:36 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:Â Â Definitely spring for the posi - it will go almost anywhere a 4wd
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:umq0d2$1cqhf$1@dont-email.me... >>>>
On 12/30/2023 1:34 PM, Snag wrote:
A little more work in some ways , a lot easier in others.
Yep... if I ever have to install a lift pump in a 90s 3/4 ton Cummins
Dodge pickup again I am just going to take the bed off the truck.
Dropping the tank and getting it back in place is a crazy pain in the
butt.... and I wound up dropping the tank three times.
Bob La Londe
------------------------------------
The bed has been off my 1991 Ranger many times. I cut a 2x6 to catch
the
inner lip of the sides and put a used (straightened) house electric
drop
eyebolt in the center. The shop crane rolls under either the side or
end
far enough to hook the eyebolt with the boom retracted. The bed is
light
enough to turn upside down to repair lower edge rust easily. A few
years
ago I removed the gas tank and replaced the brake line that ran past it >>>> with NiCopp, the fuel pump, level sender and fuel filter, and greased
the replacement U joints, all done easily from above. With practice and >>>> lubed threads removing the bed takes only about ten minutes.
It helps a lot that older Ranger beds bolt on from above. I use the
bolts to attach the jib crane mount. My logging trailer isn't heavy or >>>> stable enough to benefit from the crane but it was a great help for
winching logs back to the truck, over the slash and skidder wheel ruts >>>> that blocked using a wheelbarrow.
https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Remove-Rusted-or-Seized-Truck-Bed-Bolts/
  I seriously considered pulling the bed , but I don't really have the >>> lifting equipment for that . After checking what that bed weighs - less
than I thought - I may revisit that idea . It would definitely make part >>> of the exhaust work easier . Still plan to do the gear swap inside
though .
without posi will go.. Takes a bit of getting used to though - you no
longer have a "rudder" when the wheels break loose and you MIGHT find
yourself getting crosswize occaisionally untill you get used to it -
particularly on an unloaded pick'm-up. I have posi on the Ranger but
also a fiberglass cap and bed liner to hold the backside down a bit.
Mixed blessing if you get it rotating thogh because there is a larger
moment coaxing it out of line!!
*** WARNING - MANY TANGENTS INCOMING ***
Except for some of the crew cabs any pickup truck without a load is
likely to let loose on you in marginal conditions with only mildly
aggressive driving or even "frim" normal driving.
My first car was a 1967 Ford Cortina (English) GT. It had been in a rollover before I got it, and I never fixed it up more than was
necessary to pop the windshields in and not bump my head on the roof. I
did slap 60s tires on it all the way around for more stability and
better traction which was totally wasted until I put a couple bags of concrete in the trunk.
Pickup trucks almost always handle better with a load.
Most of you old guys probably know this too. If unloaded they will
climb a steep dirt grade better in reverse. Even with some load. My
dad once pissed a guy off who tried three times to top a hill in his old
Ford F100. My dad said, "I bet I can do it."
The angry retort was, "I'll bet you $100 you can't."Â Â 1st try, good
run, in reverse. Right to the top.
I knew it would work, because when I was very little I saw my dad do it
to come up out of the canyon at Virgil Corly's old mining claim on Lynx Creek. We had camped down there (with Mr Corly's permission). His 1957 Dodge step side with the split hood just wouldn't make it up the hill.
He made my mom and I get out, and then he reversed it up the hill at
speed. That was with some load. It had our cooler, camping equipment,
and placer gear in the back.
That was also the truck my mom taught me how to drive with. You wagged
the steering to go straight, and it had such a loose shifter that it was further than I could reach without leaning over to put it in reverse.
That was already with a pop crate on the seat behind me so I could reach
the pedals. My dad traded that truck for a 42 Willys. I'd rather have
the truck today, but he has been offered (and turned down) stupid
amounts of money for the Jeep.
On Sat, 30 Dec 2023 21:58:55 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2023 5:36 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:Definitely spring for the posi - it will go almost anywhere a 4wd
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:umq0d2$1cqhf$1@dont-email.me...
On 12/30/2023 1:34 PM, Snag wrote:
A little more work in some ways , a lot easier in others.
Yep... if I ever have to install a lift pump in a 90s 3/4 ton Cummins
Dodge pickup again I am just going to take the bed off the truck.
Dropping the tank and getting it back in place is a crazy pain in the
butt.... and I wound up dropping the tank three times.
Bob La Londe
------------------------------------
The bed has been off my 1991 Ranger many times. I cut a 2x6 to catch the >>> inner lip of the sides and put a used (straightened) house electric drop >>> eyebolt in the center. The shop crane rolls under either the side or end >>> far enough to hook the eyebolt with the boom retracted. The bed is light >>> enough to turn upside down to repair lower edge rust easily. A few years >>> ago I removed the gas tank and replaced the brake line that ran past it
with NiCopp, the fuel pump, level sender and fuel filter, and greased
the replacement U joints, all done easily from above. With practice and
lubed threads removing the bed takes only about ten minutes.
It helps a lot that older Ranger beds bolt on from above. I use the
bolts to attach the jib crane mount. My logging trailer isn't heavy or
stable enough to benefit from the crane but it was a great help for
winching logs back to the truck, over the slash and skidder wheel ruts
that blocked using a wheelbarrow.
https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Remove-Rusted-or-Seized-Truck-Bed-Bolts/
I seriously considered pulling the bed , but I don't really have the
lifting equipment for that . After checking what that bed weighs - less
than I thought - I may revisit that idea . It would definitely make part
of the exhaust work easier . Still plan to do the gear swap inside though .
without posi will go.. Takes a bit of getting used to though - you no
longer have a "rudder" when the wheels break loose and you MIGHT find yourself getting crosswize occaisionally untill you get used to it - particularly on an unloaded pick'm-up. I have posi on the Ranger but
also a fiberglass cap and bed liner to hold the backside down a bit.
Mixed blessing if you get it rotating thogh because there is a larger
moment coaxing it out of line!!
On 12/30/2023 10:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 30 Dec 2023 21:58:55 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2023 5:36 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:Â Â Definitely spring for the posi - it will go almost anywhere a 4wd
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:umq0d2$1cqhf$1@dont-email.me... >>>>
On 12/30/2023 1:34 PM, Snag wrote:
A little more work in some ways , a lot easier in others.
Yep... if I ever have to install a lift pump in a 90s 3/4 ton Cummins
Dodge pickup again I am just going to take the bed off the truck.
Dropping the tank and getting it back in place is a crazy pain in the
butt.... and I wound up dropping the tank three times.
Bob La Londe
------------------------------------
The bed has been off my 1991 Ranger many times. I cut a 2x6 to catch
the
inner lip of the sides and put a used (straightened) house electric
drop
eyebolt in the center. The shop crane rolls under either the side or
end
far enough to hook the eyebolt with the boom retracted. The bed is
light
enough to turn upside down to repair lower edge rust easily. A few
years
ago I removed the gas tank and replaced the brake line that ran past it >>>> with NiCopp, the fuel pump, level sender and fuel filter, and greased
the replacement U joints, all done easily from above. With practice and >>>> lubed threads removing the bed takes only about ten minutes.
It helps a lot that older Ranger beds bolt on from above. I use the
bolts to attach the jib crane mount. My logging trailer isn't heavy or >>>> stable enough to benefit from the crane but it was a great help for
winching logs back to the truck, over the slash and skidder wheel ruts >>>> that blocked using a wheelbarrow.
https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Remove-Rusted-or-Seized-Truck-Bed-Bolts/
  I seriously considered pulling the bed , but I don't really have the >>> lifting equipment for that . After checking what that bed weighs - less
than I thought - I may revisit that idea . It would definitely make part >>> of the exhaust work easier . Still plan to do the gear swap inside
though .
without posi will go.. Takes a bit of getting used to though - you no
longer have a "rudder" when the wheels break loose and you MIGHT find
yourself getting crosswize occaisionally untill you get used to it -
particularly on an unloaded pick'm-up. I have posi on the Ranger but
also a fiberglass cap and bed liner to hold the backside down a bit.
Mixed blessing if you get it rotating thogh because there is a larger
moment coaxing it out of line!!
 I think it can be a definite advantage here . I don't drive a lot of dirt/gravel roads except the mile or so up to the highway . It can be challenging after a good rain .
 It'll also help when I let the neighbors coax me into a drag race . They're all putting flowmasters and loud mufflers on stock pickups .
Mine's relatively quiet . Until I open the header dumps . I understand
that it doesn't really give you any more power , but the psychological
effect on the other guy ...
On 12/31/2023 12:54 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 12/30/2023 9:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 30 Dec 2023 21:58:55 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2023 5:36 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:Â Â Definitely spring for the posi - it will go almost anywhere a 4wd
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:umq0d2$1cqhf$1@dont-email.me... >>>>>
On 12/30/2023 1:34 PM, Snag wrote:
A little more work in some ways , a lot easier in others.
Yep... if I ever have to install a lift pump in a 90s 3/4 ton Cummins >>>>> Dodge pickup again I am just going to take the bed off the truck.
Dropping the tank and getting it back in place is a crazy pain in the >>>>> butt.... and I wound up dropping the tank three times.
Bob La Londe
------------------------------------
The bed has been off my 1991 Ranger many times. I cut a 2x6 to
catch the
inner lip of the sides and put a used (straightened) house electric
drop
eyebolt in the center. The shop crane rolls under either the side
or end
far enough to hook the eyebolt with the boom retracted. The bed is
light
enough to turn upside down to repair lower edge rust easily. A few
years
ago I removed the gas tank and replaced the brake line that ran
past it
with NiCopp, the fuel pump, level sender and fuel filter, and greased >>>>> the replacement U joints, all done easily from above. With practice
and
lubed threads removing the bed takes only about ten minutes.
It helps a lot that older Ranger beds bolt on from above. I use the
bolts to attach the jib crane mount. My logging trailer isn't heavy or >>>>> stable enough to benefit from the crane but it was a great help for
winching logs back to the truck, over the slash and skidder wheel ruts >>>>> that blocked using a wheelbarrow.
https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Remove-Rusted-or-Seized-Truck-Bed-Bolts/
  I seriously considered pulling the bed , but I don't really have the >>>> lifting equipment for that . After checking what that bed weighs - less >>>> than I thought - I may revisit that idea . It would definitely make
part
of the exhaust work easier . Still plan to do the gear swap inside
though .
without posi will go.. Takes a bit of getting used to though - you no
longer have a "rudder" when the wheels break loose and you MIGHT find
yourself getting crosswize occaisionally untill you get used to it -
particularly on an unloaded pick'm-up. I have posi on the Ranger but
also a fiberglass cap and bed liner to hold the backside down a bit.
Mixed blessing if you get it rotating thogh because there is a larger
moment coaxing it out of line!!
*** WARNING - MANY TANGENTS INCOMING ***
Except for some of the crew cabs any pickup truck without a load is
likely to let loose on you in marginal conditions with only mildly
aggressive driving or even "frim" normal driving.
My first car was a 1967 Ford Cortina (English) GT. It had been in a
rollover before I got it, and I never fixed it up more than was
necessary to pop the windshields in and not bump my head on the roof.
I did slap 60s tires on it all the way around for more stability and
better traction which was totally wasted until I put a couple bags of
concrete in the trunk.
Pickup trucks almost always handle better with a load.
Most of you old guys probably know this too. If unloaded they will
climb a steep dirt grade better in reverse. Even with some load. My
dad once pissed a guy off who tried three times to top a hill in his
old Ford F100. My dad said, "I bet I can do it."
The angry retort was, "I'll bet you $100 you can't."Â Â 1st try, good
run, in reverse. Right to the top.
I knew it would work, because when I was very little I saw my dad do
it to come up out of the canyon at Virgil Corly's old mining claim on
Lynx Creek. We had camped down there (with Mr Corly's permission).
His 1957 Dodge step side with the split hood just wouldn't make it up
the hill. He made my mom and I get out, and then he reversed it up the
hill at speed. That was with some load. It had our cooler, camping
equipment, and placer gear in the back.
That was also the truck my mom taught me how to drive with. You
wagged the steering to go straight, and it had such a loose shifter
that it was further than I could reach without leaning over to put it
in reverse. That was already with a pop crate on the seat behind me so
I could reach the pedals. My dad traded that truck for a 42 Willys.
I'd rather have the truck today, but he has been offered (and turned
down) stupid amounts of money for the Jeep.
 Dad had a '57 Willys Jeep pickup ...
my brother gave it away after
Dad died - or so he said . This truck probably won't see inclement
conditions so much , it's a toy and I'll probably only play with it in
nice weather .
On 12/31/2023 7:35 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:umqou0$1kcbj$1@dont-email.me...
  I seriously considered pulling the bed , but I don't really have the
lifting equipment for that . After checking what that bed weighs - less
than I thought - I may revisit that idea . It would definitely make part
of the exhaust work easier . Still plan to do the gear swap inside
though .
Snag
-------------------------------
A neighbor fastened a plank between two forest trees to lift heavy
equipment on and off trucks with a chainfall. 1 ton has proven to be a
handy size, 2 tons is much slower and a lot of awkward weight to hang
up with one hand while on a ladder. I store them in unbreakable rubber
farm buckets that are easy to carry and they keep the hand chain out
of the dirt/mud in use. Both are imports similar to the ones HF sells
and have given no trouble. I've loaded the 1 ton to its rating and the
2 ton to at least 2800 Lbs, likely much more.
I move the bed off the truck but except for not being street legal the
bed-less truck could be driven to a more convenient place to work on
it. On mine removing three screws disconnects the gas filler from the
bed and the locking cap can stay on to keep water out and gas in.
There is one lighting connector behind the bumper that's accessible
with the bed slightly lifted. If the bed was left hanging outdoors I'd
put sawhorses under the front to keep it raised enough to not fill
with rain water. A board on the frame between the bed and cab will
protect the paint from scratches.
My shop crane is a commercial one that was easy to modify into a
towable off-pavement trailer. The mast end caster is a trailer tongue
jack with added wheels and a tow bar for manhandling on an extended
axle. I don't know how well the HF shop crane would do for this.
https://ibid.illinois.gov/item.php?id=169461
I paid $100 for it at a local auction. The boom extension was bent and
wouldn't retract so I turned it over, chained it to the legs and
straightened it. It's hoisted some V8s and engine-powered welders for
neighbors.
 I have the A frame that I used to pull the motor and a pair of cable hoists ... I was thinking about this early this morning while the dog
was trying to get me out of bed ... I can use one hoist on each side and
4 of my ratchet straps (one on each corner) to pick the bed up high
enough to drive out from under it . I was surprised to find the bed
weight is around 500 pounds or a bit more , I thought it was more like
1000 pounds . I'll have to figure out where the wiring plug is but I
think it's at the rear of the bed . I still think I'm going to pull the
axle and work on it inside the shop . And having the bed off will make
it a lot less work to do the remaining welding on the exhaust system
without removing it from the truck . Six of one and half a dozen of the
other , either way I think this is going to have the truck down for a
month or more . What the hell , I did without a truck for five years ...
On 12/31/2023 12:02 PM, Snag wrote:
  Dad had a '57 Willys Jeep pickup ...
I remember the first time somebody told me their dad had a Jeep pickup.
I had never heard of such a thing and thought they were pulling my leg.
On 12/30/2023 9:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 30 Dec 2023 21:58:55 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2023 5:36 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:without posi will go.. Takes a bit of getting used to though - you no
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:umq0d2$1cqhf$1@dont-email.me...
On 12/30/2023 1:34 PM, Snag wrote:
A little more work in some ways , a lot easier in others.
Yep... if I ever have to install a lift pump in a 90s 3/4 ton Cummins
Dodge pickup again I am just going to take the bed off the truck.
Dropping the tank and getting it back in place is a crazy pain in the
butt.... and I wound up dropping the tank three times.
Bob La Londe
------------------------------------
The bed has been off my 1991 Ranger many times. I cut a 2x6 to catch the >>>> inner lip of the sides and put a used (straightened) house electric drop >>>> eyebolt in the center. The shop crane rolls under either the side or end >>>> far enough to hook the eyebolt with the boom retracted. The bed is light >>>> enough to turn upside down to repair lower edge rust easily. A few years >>>> ago I removed the gas tank and replaced the brake line that ran past it >>>> with NiCopp, the fuel pump, level sender and fuel filter, and greased
the replacement U joints, all done easily from above. With practice and >>>> lubed threads removing the bed takes only about ten minutes.
It helps a lot that older Ranger beds bolt on from above. I use the
bolts to attach the jib crane mount. My logging trailer isn't heavy or >>>> stable enough to benefit from the crane but it was a great help for
winching logs back to the truck, over the slash and skidder wheel ruts >>>> that blocked using a wheelbarrow.
https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Remove-Rusted-or-Seized-Truck-Bed-Bolts/
I seriously considered pulling the bed , but I don't really have the
lifting equipment for that . After checking what that bed weighs - less
than I thought - I may revisit that idea . It would definitely make part >>> of the exhaust work easier . Still plan to do the gear swap inside though . >> Definitely spring for the posi - it will go almost anywhere a 4wd
longer have a "rudder" when the wheels break loose and you MIGHT find
yourself getting crosswize occaisionally untill you get used to it -
particularly on an unloaded pick'm-up. I have posi on the Ranger but
also a fiberglass cap and bed liner to hold the backside down a bit.
Mixed blessing if you get it rotating thogh because there is a larger
moment coaxing it out of line!!
*** WARNING - MANY TANGENTS INCOMING ***
Except for some of the crew cabs any pickup truck without a load is
likely to let loose on you in marginal conditions with only mildly
aggressive driving or even "frim" normal driving.
My first car was a 1967 Ford Cortina (English) GT. It had been in a
rollover before I got it, and I never fixed it up more than was
necessary to pop the windshields in and not bump my head on the roof. I
did slap 60s tires on it all the way around for more stability and
better traction which was totally wasted until I put a couple bags of >concrete in the trunk.
Pickup trucks almost always handle better with a load.
Most of you old guys probably know this too. If unloaded they will
climb a steep dirt grade better in reverse. Even with some load. My
dad once pissed a guy off who tried three times to top a hill in his old
Ford F100. My dad said, "I bet I can do it."
The angry retort was, "I'll bet you $100 you can't." 1st try, good
run, in reverse. Right to the top.
I knew it would work, because when I was very little I saw my dad do it
to come up out of the canyon at Virgil Corly's old mining claim on Lynx >Creek. We had camped down there (with Mr Corly's permission). His 1957 >Dodge step side with the split hood just wouldn't make it up the hill.
He made my mom and I get out, and then he reversed it up the hill at
speed. That was with some load. It had our cooler, camping equipment,
and placer gear in the back.
That was also the truck my mom taught me how to drive with. You wagged
the steering to go straight, and it had such a loose shifter that it was >further than I could reach without leaning over to put it in reverse.
That was already with a pop crate on the seat behind me so I could reach
the pedals. My dad traded that truck for a 42 Willys. I'd rather have
the truck today, but he has been offered (and turned down) stupid
amounts of money for the Jeep.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
On 12/31/2023 8:58 AM, Snag wrote:
On 12/31/2023 7:35 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:umqou0$1kcbj$1@dont-email.me...
  I seriously considered pulling the bed , but I don't really have the >>> lifting equipment for that . After checking what that bed weighs - less
than I thought - I may revisit that idea . It would definitely make part >>> of the exhaust work easier . Still plan to do the gear swap inside
though .
Snag
-------------------------------
A neighbor fastened a plank between two forest trees to lift heavy
equipment on and off trucks with a chainfall. 1 ton has proven to be
a handy size, 2 tons is much slower and a lot of awkward weight to
hang up with one hand while on a ladder. I store them in unbreakable
rubber farm buckets that are easy to carry and they keep the hand
chain out of the dirt/mud in use. Both are imports similar to the
ones HF sells and have given no trouble. I've loaded the 1 ton to its
rating and the 2 ton to at least 2800 Lbs, likely much more.
I move the bed off the truck but except for not being street legal
the bed-less truck could be driven to a more convenient place to work
on it. On mine removing three screws disconnects the gas filler from
the bed and the locking cap can stay on to keep water out and gas in.
There is one lighting connector behind the bumper that's accessible
with the bed slightly lifted. If the bed was left hanging outdoors
I'd put sawhorses under the front to keep it raised enough to not
fill with rain water. A board on the frame between the bed and cab
will protect the paint from scratches.
My shop crane is a commercial one that was easy to modify into a
towable off-pavement trailer. The mast end caster is a trailer tongue
jack with added wheels and a tow bar for manhandling on an extended
axle. I don't know how well the HF shop crane would do for this.
https://ibid.illinois.gov/item.php?id=169461
I paid $100 for it at a local auction. The boom extension was bent
and wouldn't retract so I turned it over, chained it to the legs and
straightened it. It's hoisted some V8s and engine-powered welders for
neighbors.
  I have the A frame that I used to pull the motor and a pair of
cable hoists ... I was thinking about this early this morning while
the dog was trying to get me out of bed ... I can use one hoist on
each side and 4 of my ratchet straps (one on each corner) to pick the
bed up high enough to drive out from under it . I was surprised to
find the bed weight is around 500 pounds or a bit more , I thought it
was more like 1000 pounds . I'll have to figure out where the wiring
plug is but I think it's at the rear of the bed . I still think I'm
going to pull the axle and work on it inside the shop . And having the
bed off will make it a lot less work to do the remaining welding on
the exhaust system without removing it from the truck . Six of one and
half a dozen of the other , either way I think this is going to have
the truck down for a month or more . What the hell , I did without a
truck for five years ...
I've lifted an almost 3000lb boat off a trailer with an engine hoist
(cherry picker) and set it on cross beams setting on saw horses. I'm
sure you can manage a pickup bed if you decided that's the easiest way
to do what you need to do.
Never mind those pesky wires. That's what side cutters are for.
On 12/31/2023 8:58 AM, Snag wrote:
On 12/31/2023 7:35 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message news:umqou0$1kcbj$1@dont-email.me...
I seriously considered pulling the bed , but I don't really have the
lifting equipment for that . After checking what that bed weighs - less
than I thought - I may revisit that idea . It would definitely make part >>> of the exhaust work easier . Still plan to do the gear swap inside
though .
Snag
-------------------------------
A neighbor fastened a plank between two forest trees to lift heavy
equipment on and off trucks with a chainfall. 1 ton has proven to be a
handy size, 2 tons is much slower and a lot of awkward weight to hang
up with one hand while on a ladder. I store them in unbreakable rubber
farm buckets that are easy to carry and they keep the hand chain out
of the dirt/mud in use. Both are imports similar to the ones HF sells
and have given no trouble. I've loaded the 1 ton to its rating and the
2 ton to at least 2800 Lbs, likely much more.
I move the bed off the truck but except for not being street legal the
bed-less truck could be driven to a more convenient place to work on
it. On mine removing three screws disconnects the gas filler from the
bed and the locking cap can stay on to keep water out and gas in.
There is one lighting connector behind the bumper that's accessible
with the bed slightly lifted. If the bed was left hanging outdoors I'd
put sawhorses under the front to keep it raised enough to not fill
with rain water. A board on the frame between the bed and cab will
protect the paint from scratches.
My shop crane is a commercial one that was easy to modify into a
towable off-pavement trailer. The mast end caster is a trailer tongue
jack with added wheels and a tow bar for manhandling on an extended
axle. I don't know how well the HF shop crane would do for this.
https://ibid.illinois.gov/item.php?id=169461
I paid $100 for it at a local auction. The boom extension was bent and
wouldn't retract so I turned it over, chained it to the legs and
straightened it. It's hoisted some V8s and engine-powered welders for
neighbors.
I have the A frame that I used to pull the motor and a pair of cable
hoists ... I was thinking about this early this morning while the dog
was trying to get me out of bed ... I can use one hoist on each side and
4 of my ratchet straps (one on each corner) to pick the bed up high
enough to drive out from under it . I was surprised to find the bed
weight is around 500 pounds or a bit more , I thought it was more like
1000 pounds . I'll have to figure out where the wiring plug is but I
think it's at the rear of the bed . I still think I'm going to pull the
axle and work on it inside the shop . And having the bed off will make
it a lot less work to do the remaining welding on the exhaust system
without removing it from the truck . Six of one and half a dozen of the
other , either way I think this is going to have the truck down for a
month or more . What the hell , I did without a truck for five years ...
I've lifted an almost 3000lb boat off a trailer with an engine hoist
(cherry picker) and set it on cross beams setting on saw horses. I'm
sure you can manage a pickup bed if you decided that's the easiest way
to do what you need to do.
Never mind those pesky wires. That's what side cutters are for.
--My buddy's front end loader on the 165 massey made short work of
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
On 12/31/2023 1:06 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 12/31/2023 12:02 PM, Snag wrote:
Dad had a '57 Willys Jeep pickup ...
I remember the first time somebody told me their dad had a Jeep pickup.
I had never heard of such a thing and thought they were pulling my leg.
Dad embarrassed more than one hotshot in a hopped up 4X4 with that
Jeep . One time in particular , we watched truck after truck attack this
one hill . Dad had swapped the stock flathead mill for a Tornado 230 OHC >motor . He popped the hand throttle out to about 1500-1800 RPM , dropped
the jeep into low range/2nd gear and proceeded to crawl up that hill
without once breaking traction . We could hear the screams and curses
and "How did he do that!" as we putted of into the sunset .
It ain't always what ya got as much as how ya use it . Those boys
thought that if ya got 600 horses ya gotta use 'em all ...
On 12/31/2023 1:06 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 12/31/2023 12:02 PM, Snag wrote:
  Dad had a '57 Willys Jeep pickup ...
I remember the first time somebody told me their dad had a Jeep
pickup. I had never heard of such a thing and thought they were
pulling my leg.
 Dad embarrassed more than one hotshot in a hopped up 4X4 with that
Jeep . One time in particular , we watched truck after truck attack this
one hill . Dad had swapped the stock flathead mill for a Tornado 230 OHC motor . He popped the hand throttle out to about 1500-1800 RPM , dropped
the jeep into low range/2nd gear and proceeded to crawl up that hill
without once breaking traction . We could hear the screams and curses
and "How did he do that!" as we putted of into the sunset .
 It ain't always what ya got as much as how ya use it . Those boys
thought that if ya got 600 horses ya gotta use 'em all ...
On Sun, 31 Dec 2023 11:54:11 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 12/30/2023 9:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:If it was a '57 it didn't have a split hood. The 56 was the last
On Sat, 30 Dec 2023 21:58:55 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 12/30/2023 5:36 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:Definitely spring for the posi - it will go almost anywhere a 4wd
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:umq0d2$1cqhf$1@dont-email.me... >>>>>
On 12/30/2023 1:34 PM, Snag wrote:
A little more work in some ways , a lot easier in others.
Yep... if I ever have to install a lift pump in a 90s 3/4 ton Cummins >>>>> Dodge pickup again I am just going to take the bed off the truck.
Dropping the tank and getting it back in place is a crazy pain in the >>>>> butt.... and I wound up dropping the tank three times.
Bob La Londe
------------------------------------
The bed has been off my 1991 Ranger many times. I cut a 2x6 to catch the >>>>> inner lip of the sides and put a used (straightened) house electric drop >>>>> eyebolt in the center. The shop crane rolls under either the side or end >>>>> far enough to hook the eyebolt with the boom retracted. The bed is light >>>>> enough to turn upside down to repair lower edge rust easily. A few years >>>>> ago I removed the gas tank and replaced the brake line that ran past it >>>>> with NiCopp, the fuel pump, level sender and fuel filter, and greased >>>>> the replacement U joints, all done easily from above. With practice and >>>>> lubed threads removing the bed takes only about ten minutes.
It helps a lot that older Ranger beds bolt on from above. I use the
bolts to attach the jib crane mount. My logging trailer isn't heavy or >>>>> stable enough to benefit from the crane but it was a great help for
winching logs back to the truck, over the slash and skidder wheel ruts >>>>> that blocked using a wheelbarrow.
https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Remove-Rusted-or-Seized-Truck-Bed-Bolts/
I seriously considered pulling the bed , but I don't really have the >>>> lifting equipment for that . After checking what that bed weighs - less >>>> than I thought - I may revisit that idea . It would definitely make part >>>> of the exhaust work easier . Still plan to do the gear swap inside though .
without posi will go.. Takes a bit of getting used to though - you no
longer have a "rudder" when the wheels break loose and you MIGHT find
yourself getting crosswize occaisionally untill you get used to it -
particularly on an unloaded pick'm-up. I have posi on the Ranger but
also a fiberglass cap and bed liner to hold the backside down a bit.
Mixed blessing if you get it rotating thogh because there is a larger
moment coaxing it out of line!!
*** WARNING - MANY TANGENTS INCOMING ***
Except for some of the crew cabs any pickup truck without a load is
likely to let loose on you in marginal conditions with only mildly
aggressive driving or even "frim" normal driving.
My first car was a 1967 Ford Cortina (English) GT. It had been in a
rollover before I got it, and I never fixed it up more than was
necessary to pop the windshields in and not bump my head on the roof. I
did slap 60s tires on it all the way around for more stability and
better traction which was totally wasted until I put a couple bags of
concrete in the trunk.
Pickup trucks almost always handle better with a load.
Most of you old guys probably know this too. If unloaded they will
climb a steep dirt grade better in reverse. Even with some load. My
dad once pissed a guy off who tried three times to top a hill in his old
Ford F100. My dad said, "I bet I can do it."
The angry retort was, "I'll bet you $100 you can't." 1st try, good
run, in reverse. Right to the top.
I knew it would work, because when I was very little I saw my dad do it
to come up out of the canyon at Virgil Corly's old mining claim on Lynx
Creek. We had camped down there (with Mr Corly's permission). His 1957
Dodge step side with the split hood just wouldn't make it up the hill.
He made my mom and I get out, and then he reversed it up the hill at
speed. That was with some load. It had our cooler, camping equipment,
and placer gear in the back.
split - the '57 was the first "alligator" hood, the first with pull
out door handles and the last with single headlights.
I had a '57
That was also the truck my mom taught me how to drive with. You wagged
the steering to go straight, and it had such a loose shifter that it was
further than I could reach without leaning over to put it in reverse.
That was already with a pop crate on the seat behind me so I could reach
the pedals. My dad traded that truck for a 42 Willys. I'd rather have
the truck today, but he has been offered (and turned down) stupid
amounts of money for the Jeep.
I wish I still had the old "penguin" too (it was metallic black with
a pearl white roof and mirrors and a white tonneau) Had a quarter
million miles on it in '76 when I drove it to Tulsa for the street rod nationals - sold it a few years later - had the "big" flathead six and
3 on the tree
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:umshi4$1r6nr$1@dont-email.me...
A couple times we tracked people lost in the desert. Often with boots
on the ground, and that old Jeep putting along behind unmanned. Once in
a while one of us would go turn in a direction change or take a rest
when in the Jeep the trail was clear, but it would roll over just about anything putting along at 2MPH.
Bob La Londe
------------------------
If you want to see what Jeeps are NOT good for, drive one on the
Autobahn. They didn't handle tight back road corners fit for BMWs very
well either. The wreckage was hauled back and left in its assigned space
in the motor pool as a reminder. The one I drove towed a water tank
trailer to keep up with the leaks because we couldn't order replacement parts, everything went to Nam. There weren't aftermarket auto parts
stores in Germany because the vehicle inspection demanded that
everything be factory stock, down to the OEM brand of spark plugs, and
of course all hardware was metric.
On the plus side, as the supply of working vehicles dwindled it became
easier to take my own car and stay overnight at quaint village inns
instead of Army posts.
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:umscup$1qkjr$1@dont-email.me...
 The A frame is actually 2 2x8 A frames with a double 8 foot 2x8
crossbeam . I might have to move one of the 2x4 angle braces a little
for clearance . Actually that brace can go away since I'm not on a slope
this time .
Snag
-----------------------------
Like a big sawhorse or gantry hoist? That should be excellent for
lifting the bed. You could attach swivel caster tongue jacks to the legs
to raise it to roll around and then lower it to rest solidly.
On Sun, 31 Dec 2023 12:10:20 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 12/31/2023 8:58 AM, Snag wrote:My buddy's front end loader on the 165 massey made short work of
On 12/31/2023 7:35 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:umqou0$1kcbj$1@dont-email.me...
  I seriously considered pulling the bed , but I don't really have the >>>> lifting equipment for that . After checking what that bed weighs - less >>>> than I thought - I may revisit that idea . It would definitely make part >>>> of the exhaust work easier . Still plan to do the gear swap inside
though .
Snag
-------------------------------
A neighbor fastened a plank between two forest trees to lift heavy
equipment on and off trucks with a chainfall. 1 ton has proven to be a >>>> handy size, 2 tons is much slower and a lot of awkward weight to hang
up with one hand while on a ladder. I store them in unbreakable rubber >>>> farm buckets that are easy to carry and they keep the hand chain out
of the dirt/mud in use. Both are imports similar to the ones HF sells
and have given no trouble. I've loaded the 1 ton to its rating and the >>>> 2 ton to at least 2800 Lbs, likely much more.
I move the bed off the truck but except for not being street legal the >>>> bed-less truck could be driven to a more convenient place to work on
it. On mine removing three screws disconnects the gas filler from the
bed and the locking cap can stay on to keep water out and gas in.
There is one lighting connector behind the bumper that's accessible
with the bed slightly lifted. If the bed was left hanging outdoors I'd >>>> put sawhorses under the front to keep it raised enough to not fill
with rain water. A board on the frame between the bed and cab will
protect the paint from scratches.
My shop crane is a commercial one that was easy to modify into a
towable off-pavement trailer. The mast end caster is a trailer tongue
jack with added wheels and a tow bar for manhandling on an extended
axle. I don't know how well the HF shop crane would do for this.
https://ibid.illinois.gov/item.php?id=169461
I paid $100 for it at a local auction. The boom extension was bent and >>>> wouldn't retract so I turned it over, chained it to the legs and
straightened it. It's hoisted some V8s and engine-powered welders for
neighbors.
 I have the A frame that I used to pull the motor and a pair of cable >>> hoists ... I was thinking about this early this morning while the dog
was trying to get me out of bed ... I can use one hoist on each side and >>> 4 of my ratchet straps (one on each corner) to pick the bed up high
enough to drive out from under it . I was surprised to find the bed
weight is around 500 pounds or a bit more , I thought it was more like
1000 pounds . I'll have to figure out where the wiring plug is but I
think it's at the rear of the bed . I still think I'm going to pull the
axle and work on it inside the shop . And having the bed off will make
it a lot less work to do the remaining welding on the exhaust system
without removing it from the truck . Six of one and half a dozen of the
other , either way I think this is going to have the truck down for a
month or more . What the hell , I did without a truck for five years ...
I've lifted an almost 3000lb boat off a trailer with an engine hoist
(cherry picker) and set it on cross beams setting on saw horses. I'm
sure you can manage a pickup bed if you decided that's the easiest way
to do what you need to do.
Never mind those pesky wires. That's what side cutters are for.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
swapping the box on the Ranger
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:umteo7$22bu0$1@dont-email.me...
 Three neighbors have front loaders , but I got nowhere level to set
it down . And then I'd have to have one of them lift it to put it back .
I can lower it close to the ground and leave it hanging on the A frame .
Snag
-----------------------------
I lean a board or plywood against the cab for protection when moving the
bed into place to reinstall it. It's useful during removal if you don't
know where the bed's center of gravity is.
The lower edge of my Ranger's bed doesn't seem solid enough to rest it
on but it's fine up on end or upside down on timbers. Upright on three
jack stands works.
 I'm finally getting around to changing out the gears in my truck axle
. The "metalworking" part is that I have to make a device to hold the
drive line yoke while I torque the nut . The rest is just spinnin'
wrenches and measuring things . Fortunately (or maybe a missed
opportunity) I have all the tools needed to do the job . Might have to fabricate a mount for the dial indicator to check lash but that's about
it . The plan is to pull the axle and work on it in the shop . A little
more work in some ways , a lot easier in others . One thing that will be easier is getting the last bit of welding done on my exhaust system .
And welding in a pair of cutouts while it's out from under the truck .
 I'm debating putting a limited slip diff in while I'm in there ,,, an additional 200 bucks or so , and where I live it's not a bad idea . It
will also give be braggin' rights with the neighbors ... I'm awaiting a response from a vendor right now about the unit I want to purchase .
 Any shortcuts or helpful techniques welcome .
On 12/31/2023 1:54 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:2 guys can lift one end. Lift it a foot to get a plank under it at
On Sun, 31 Dec 2023 12:10:20 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 12/31/2023 8:58 AM, Snag wrote:My buddy's front end loader on the 165 massey made short work of
On 12/31/2023 7:35 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message news:umqou0$1kcbj$1@dont-email.me...
I seriously considered pulling the bed , but I don't really have the >>>>> lifting equipment for that . After checking what that bed weighs - less >>>>> than I thought - I may revisit that idea . It would definitely make part >>>>> of the exhaust work easier . Still plan to do the gear swap inside
though .
Snag
-------------------------------
A neighbor fastened a plank between two forest trees to lift heavy
equipment on and off trucks with a chainfall. 1 ton has proven to be a >>>>> handy size, 2 tons is much slower and a lot of awkward weight to hang >>>>> up with one hand while on a ladder. I store them in unbreakable rubber >>>>> farm buckets that are easy to carry and they keep the hand chain out >>>>> of the dirt/mud in use. Both are imports similar to the ones HF sells >>>>> and have given no trouble. I've loaded the 1 ton to its rating and the >>>>> 2 ton to at least 2800 Lbs, likely much more.
I move the bed off the truck but except for not being street legal the >>>>> bed-less truck could be driven to a more convenient place to work on >>>>> it. On mine removing three screws disconnects the gas filler from the >>>>> bed and the locking cap can stay on to keep water out and gas in.
There is one lighting connector behind the bumper that's accessible
with the bed slightly lifted. If the bed was left hanging outdoors I'd >>>>> put sawhorses under the front to keep it raised enough to not fill
with rain water. A board on the frame between the bed and cab will
protect the paint from scratches.
My shop crane is a commercial one that was easy to modify into a
towable off-pavement trailer. The mast end caster is a trailer tongue >>>>> jack with added wheels and a tow bar for manhandling on an extended
axle. I don't know how well the HF shop crane would do for this.
https://ibid.illinois.gov/item.php?id=169461
I paid $100 for it at a local auction. The boom extension was bent and >>>>> wouldn't retract so I turned it over, chained it to the legs and
straightened it. It's hoisted some V8s and engine-powered welders for >>>>> neighbors.
I have the A frame that I used to pull the motor and a pair of cable >>>> hoists ... I was thinking about this early this morning while the dog
was trying to get me out of bed ... I can use one hoist on each side and >>>> 4 of my ratchet straps (one on each corner) to pick the bed up high
enough to drive out from under it . I was surprised to find the bed
weight is around 500 pounds or a bit more , I thought it was more like >>>> 1000 pounds . I'll have to figure out where the wiring plug is but I
think it's at the rear of the bed . I still think I'm going to pull the >>>> axle and work on it inside the shop . And having the bed off will make >>>> it a lot less work to do the remaining welding on the exhaust system
without removing it from the truck . Six of one and half a dozen of the >>>> other , either way I think this is going to have the truck down for a
month or more . What the hell , I did without a truck for five years ... >>>
I've lifted an almost 3000lb boat off a trailer with an engine hoist
(cherry picker) and set it on cross beams setting on saw horses. I'm
sure you can manage a pickup bed if you decided that's the easiest way
to do what you need to do.
Never mind those pesky wires. That's what side cutters are for.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
swapping the box on the Ranger
Three neighbors have front loaders , but I got nowhere level to set
it down . And then I'd have to have one of them lift it to put it back .
I can lower it close to the ground and leave it hanging on the A frame .
On Sun, 31 Dec 2023 22:23:32 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
On 12/31/2023 1:54 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:2 guys can lift one end. Lift it a foot to get a plank under it at
On Sun, 31 Dec 2023 12:10:20 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 12/31/2023 8:58 AM, Snag wrote:My buddy's front end loader on the 165 massey made short work of
On 12/31/2023 7:35 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag"Â wrote in message news:umqou0$1kcbj$1@dont-email.me...
  I seriously considered pulling the bed , but I don't really have the
lifting equipment for that . After checking what that bed weighs - less >>>>>> than I thought - I may revisit that idea . It would definitely make part >>>>>> of the exhaust work easier . Still plan to do the gear swap inside >>>>>> though .
Snag
-------------------------------
A neighbor fastened a plank between two forest trees to lift heavy >>>>>> equipment on and off trucks with a chainfall. 1 ton has proven to be a >>>>>> handy size, 2 tons is much slower and a lot of awkward weight to hang >>>>>> up with one hand while on a ladder. I store them in unbreakable rubber >>>>>> farm buckets that are easy to carry and they keep the hand chain out >>>>>> of the dirt/mud in use. Both are imports similar to the ones HF sells >>>>>> and have given no trouble. I've loaded the 1 ton to its rating and the >>>>>> 2 ton to at least 2800 Lbs, likely much more.
I move the bed off the truck but except for not being street legal the >>>>>> bed-less truck could be driven to a more convenient place to work on >>>>>> it. On mine removing three screws disconnects the gas filler from the >>>>>> bed and the locking cap can stay on to keep water out and gas in.
There is one lighting connector behind the bumper that's accessible >>>>>> with the bed slightly lifted. If the bed was left hanging outdoors I'd >>>>>> put sawhorses under the front to keep it raised enough to not fill >>>>>> with rain water. A board on the frame between the bed and cab will >>>>>> protect the paint from scratches.
My shop crane is a commercial one that was easy to modify into a
towable off-pavement trailer. The mast end caster is a trailer tongue >>>>>> jack with added wheels and a tow bar for manhandling on an extended >>>>>> axle. I don't know how well the HF shop crane would do for this.
https://ibid.illinois.gov/item.php?id=169461
I paid $100 for it at a local auction. The boom extension was bent and >>>>>> wouldn't retract so I turned it over, chained it to the legs and
straightened it. It's hoisted some V8s and engine-powered welders for >>>>>> neighbors.
 I have the A frame that I used to pull the motor and a pair of cable
hoists ... I was thinking about this early this morning while the dog >>>>> was trying to get me out of bed ... I can use one hoist on each side and >>>>> 4 of my ratchet straps (one on each corner) to pick the bed up high
enough to drive out from under it . I was surprised to find the bed
weight is around 500 pounds or a bit more , I thought it was more like >>>>> 1000 pounds . I'll have to figure out where the wiring plug is but I >>>>> think it's at the rear of the bed . I still think I'm going to pull the >>>>> axle and work on it inside the shop . And having the bed off will make >>>>> it a lot less work to do the remaining welding on the exhaust system >>>>> without removing it from the truck . Six of one and half a dozen of the >>>>> other , either way I think this is going to have the truck down for a >>>>> month or more . What the hell , I did without a truck for five years ... >>>>
I've lifted an almost 3000lb boat off a trailer with an engine hoist
(cherry picker) and set it on cross beams setting on saw horses. I'm
sure you can manage a pickup bed if you decided that's the easiest way >>>> to do what you need to do.
Never mind those pesky wires. That's what side cutters are for.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
swapping the box on the Ranger
Three neighbors have front loaders , but I got nowhere level to set
it down . And then I'd have to have one of them lift it to put it back .
I can lower it close to the ground and leave it hanging on the A frame .
the front - then the back (between box and frame) then lift the plank
high enough to get a saw horse under each end and repeat at the other
end and drive the truck out from under it. That's how I did the '57
Fargo back in the '70s
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