• cordless tool 18V to 12V converter

    From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to All on Wed Feb 28 14:55:05 2024
    We covered like topic before - buck/boost.
    Just need to "buck" - reduce voltage from 18V to 12V
    In your opinions - small fitment going into battery "shoe" of 12V tool
    adapting to fitting an 18V battery pack and having the "buck"
    volts-to-amps trade - is viable?
    They exist and are offered - eg. on Alibaba.

    Want an SDS drill small enough to carry in a shoulder-bag through a mine
    - but use existing 18V batteries - not expensive option of starting
    stock of 12V batteries.
    For drilling holes - 10mm or 14mm for "feathers" - rock-splitting
    wedges. Into hard granite - so needs a "serious" hammer-action drill.

    Maybe have to get 18V drill.
    Helpful advice this morning - for same voltage - 18V to 18V - has straight-through couplings going eg. DeWalt to Makita.
    So can choose smallest neatest 18V tool.

    Thanks in advance,
    Rich Smith

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to All on Wed Feb 28 18:51:31 2024
    Must take my 240V power tool to the mine and at the surface try it on
    pieces of granite from the mine.
    Calibrate my judgement of what an impact energy in J(oules) relates to
    as a drilling ability.
    Looking to identify suitable battery-powered drill.
    The holes for the "feathers" need to be 2inch to 3inch deep - not a lot.
    To have a smaller lighter drill (the machine), could be willing to
    pilot-drill and full-size drill.

    Thanks for comment I read as being that to "buck" in such a small space
    - between an 18V battery and a fitting into the 12V "shoe" - is not
    likely to be a robust device.

    Rich S

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  • From Clare Snyder@21:1/5 to All on Wed Feb 28 15:04:13 2024
    On Wed, 28 Feb 2024 14:55:05 +0000, Richard Smith <null@void.com>
    wrote:

    We covered like topic before - buck/boost.
    Just need to "buck" - reduce voltage from 18V to 12V
    In your opinions - small fitment going into battery "shoe" of 12V tool >adapting to fitting an 18V battery pack and having the "buck"
    volts-to-amps trade - is viable?
    They exist and are offered - eg. on Alibaba.

    Want an SDS drill small enough to carry in a shoulder-bag through a mine
    - but use existing 18V batteries - not expensive option of starting
    stock of 12V batteries.
    For drilling holes - 10mm or 14mm for "feathers" - rock-splitting
    wedges. Into hard granite - so needs a "serious" hammer-action drill.

    Maybe have to get 18V drill.
    Helpful advice this morning - for same voltage - 18V to 18V - has >straight-through couplings going eg. DeWalt to Makita.
    So can choose smallest neatest 18V tool.

    Thanks in advance,
    Rich Smith
    Just run the 12 volt drill on 18 volts. A friend built an
    entireZenith 701 airplane using a 7.2 volt cordless drill wired to a
    12 volt car battery Thousands of holes - the drill ran a bit faster
    than it was designed to run but that was not a problem with 1/8" bits.
    I imagine the SDS hammer drill would just gain a bit of extra power
    from the extra 6 volts.

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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Wed Feb 28 17:14:23 2024
    On 2/28/2024 12:06 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Richard Smith"  wrote in message news:m17cio63li.fsf@void.com...

    Want an SDS drill small enough to carry in a shoulder-bag through a mine
    - but use existing 18V batteries - not expensive option of starting
    stock of 12V batteries.
    For drilling holes - 10mm or 14mm for "feathers" - rock-splitting
    wedges.  Into hard granite - so needs a "serious" hammer-action drill.

    ------------------------

    This is what I have and it's barely fast enough in granite for homeowner
    use: https://usatoolsinc.com/makita-1-1-2-in-rotary-hammer-spline-ac-dc-hr3851-discontinued-replaced-by-hr4041c/


    When it broke the contractor replaced it with a larger Hitachi. He had
    bought it to run pipes and conduit through concrete, and complained
    about how slow it was. I'm well equipped partly because friends give me
    stuff they can't fix.


    I too have been the recipient of tools the previous owner couldn't fix
    . Mostly chainsaws and other small engine powered equipment . These
    hillbillies aren't always big on routine maintenance .
    --
    Snag
    "They may take our lives but
    they'll never take our freedom."
    William Wallace

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  • From James Waldby@21:1/5 to Richard Smith on Thu Feb 29 00:01:21 2024
    Richard Smith <null@void.com> wrote:
    We covered like topic before - buck/boost. Just need to "buck" -
    reduce voltage from 18V to 12V In your opinions - small fitment
    going into battery "shoe" of 12V tool adapting to fitting an 18V
    battery pack and having the "buck" volts-to-amps trade - is viable?
    ...

    Possible, as Jim Wilkins said, and maybe viable, but likely to be a
    jury-rigged lashup. Do you already have a 12V SDS drill on hand, that
    you want to adapt? If so, get a motorcycle-size 12V battery (like Jim
    Wilkins mentioned) or just use 18V straight (like Clare Snyder
    suggested). If buying new and have a choice, go with a modern 20 V or
    higher voltage SDS drill, or if 18V is de rigueur, an 18V unit.

    Want an SDS drill small enough to carry in a shoulder-bag through a
    mine - but use existing 18V batteries - not expensive option of
    starting stock of 12V batteries.

    I expect that the lighter the tool, the longer it will take, if it
    works at all, and in any case, extra batteries will make up much of
    the weight you need to carry. BTW, how long would an extension cord
    need to be? A cord might be better use of money. Am I correct in
    surmising a gas-powered generator is out of the question due to its
    exhaust, or is the mine's air circulation just peachy?

    For drilling holes - 10mm or 14mm for "feathers" - rock-splitting
    wedges. Into hard granite - so needs a "serious" hammer-action drill.

    If you are drilling under a dozen holes, get a sledge and a star drill
    and manually make the holes.

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  • From Gerry@21:1/5 to muratlanne@gmail.com on Wed Feb 28 20:48:28 2024
    On Wed, 28 Feb 2024 19:20:07 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
    <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

    "Snag" wrote in message news:uroeod$4m3m$1@dont-email.me...

    I too have been the recipient of tools the previous owner couldn't fix
    . Mostly chainsaws and other small engine powered equipment . These >hillbillies aren't always big on routine maintenance .
    Snag
    -----------------------

    My first chainsaw which I used until parts became unavailable was a >combination of two basket cases (same peach basket), one that wore out and >another a tree had fallen on and cracked the case. The fix wasn't apparent
    to the owner.
    Like the "parts saw" I spent a dollar on a few years back. "Damned
    thing won't run!" the fuel line was pinched between sections of the
    case.

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  • From Gerry@21:1/5 to muratlanne@gmail.com on Wed Feb 28 23:25:03 2024
    On Wed, 28 Feb 2024 21:29:27 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
    <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

    "Gerry" wrote in message news:icovtid681isu60r9lh6dbesghb6tc7j6j@4ax.com...

    On Wed, 28 Feb 2024 19:20:07 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
    <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

    "Snag" wrote in message news:uroeod$4m3m$1@dont-email.me...

    I too have been the recipient of tools the previous owner couldn't fix
    . Mostly chainsaws and other small engine powered equipment . These >>hillbillies aren't always big on routine maintenance .
    Snag
    -----------------------

    My first chainsaw which I used until parts became unavailable was a >>combination of two basket cases (same peach basket), one that wore out and >>another a tree had fallen on and cracked the case. The fix wasn't apparent >>to the owner.
    Like the "parts saw" I spent a dollar on a few years back. "Damned
    thing won't run!" the fuel line was pinched between sections of the
    case.

    -------------------------------

    I've done that with the kill switch wire, which has soft high temperature >silicone insulation.

    I bought a cheap 'broken' floor jack that needed a 70 cent snap ring to keep >a lift arm from popping off. I bought a $300 VW Beetle convertible that was >making an alarming noise in the engine area until I tightened the loose >bumper bolts.
    Around thirty years ago L blew a whole three bucks on "some kind of
    electric meter" a Fluke 77. Junior made his college instructor jealous
    when he started taking it to class!

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Thu Feb 29 06:38:37 2024
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

    If you are drilling under a dozen
    holes, get a sledge and a star drill
    and manually make the holes.

    ------------------------

    Have you actually tried drilling granite that way?

    I haven't.
    I have heard of star drills.
    I wondered whether for 10mm (3/8") a lump-hammer and a said star-drill
    would work...
    But haven't acted on in - even looked it up, whether currently available.

    The granite
    This type of drill http://www.weldsmith.co.uk/tech/minerals/condurrow/231207_rockdrill1st/231224_holman_silver_900.html
    (powerful)
    could not run a 4-carbide-tips drillbit into the granite - had to use a
    simple carbide chisel edged drill.

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to James Waldby on Thu Feb 29 07:16:29 2024
    no@no.no (James Waldby) writes:

    Richard Smith <null@void.com> wrote:
    We covered like topic before - buck/boost. Just need to "buck" -
    reduce voltage from 18V to 12V In your opinions - small fitment
    going into battery "shoe" of 12V tool adapting to fitting an 18V
    battery pack and having the "buck" volts-to-amps trade - is viable?
    ...

    Possible, as Jim Wilkins said, and maybe viable, but likely to be a jury-rigged lashup. Do you already have a 12V SDS drill on hand, that
    you want to adapt? If so, get a motorcycle-size 12V battery (like Jim Wilkins mentioned) or just use 18V straight (like Clare Snyder
    suggested). If buying new and have a choice, go with a modern 20 V or
    higher voltage SDS drill, or if 18V is de rigueur, an 18V unit.

    Want an SDS drill small enough to carry in a shoulder-bag through a
    mine - but use existing 18V batteries - not expensive option of
    starting stock of 12V batteries.

    I expect that the lighter the tool, the longer it will take, if it
    works at all, and in any case, extra batteries will make up much of
    the weight you need to carry. BTW, how long would an extension cord
    need to be? A cord might be better use of money. Am I correct in
    surmising a gas-powered generator is out of the question due to its
    exhaust, or is the mine's air circulation just peachy?

    For drilling holes - 10mm or 14mm for "feathers" - rock-splitting
    wedges. Into hard granite - so needs a "serious" hammer-action drill.

    If you are drilling under a dozen holes, get a sledge and a star drill
    and manually make the holes.

    Can't carry a big battery down the mine and up the raises.
    Ladders.

    Any mention of "mains" - some parts of the mine are running with water.
    Area doing work at moment is dry - solid granite no water penetration.
    But simply cannot run 240V cable around.
    110V - have to bring transformer, plus cables larger - again size and
    weight, getting up and down ladders, etc.

    Basically it's
    * turn on the compressor and use a big rock-drill
    * battery-powered "cordless" drill

    Videos "gold mine" showed using cordless SDS drill for bit of
    prospecting and chipping - in granite.
    So seems is viable.

    Going to try 240V SDS on surface with mine granite seeing reality of
    what the drilling is like.

    No chance of gasoline generator down mine.

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  • From Leon Fisk@21:1/5 to Richard Smith on Thu Feb 29 09:00:01 2024
    On Thu, 29 Feb 2024 07:16:29 +0000
    Richard Smith <null@void.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    Basically it's
    * turn on the compressor and use a big rock-drill
    * battery-powered "cordless" drill

    If you have air available... there are smaller Rock Drills. For
    instance:

    https://power-technique.cp.com/en-us/products/handheld-pneumatic-us/sinkers-surface-rock-drills/cp-0014rr

    IF you could run a gas machine... there's a gas powered Rock Drill
    with lots of Ebay listings:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/176172437823

    Suspect it is like a chainsaw, using mixed gas which doesn't sound to
    air friendly in small areas...

    --
    Leon Fisk
    Grand Rapids MI

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Leon Fisk on Fri Mar 1 17:09:30 2024
    Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid> writes:

    On Thu, 29 Feb 2024 07:16:29 +0000
    Richard Smith <null@void.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    Basically it's
    * turn on the compressor and use a big rock-drill
    * battery-powered "cordless" drill

    If you have air available... there are smaller Rock Drills. For
    instance:

    https://power-technique.cp.com/en-us/products/handheld-pneumatic-us/sinkers-surface-rock-drills/cp-0014rr

    ...

    Solution come into view - will run an airline up the raise and use out
    "Holman 303" sinker (jackhammer).
    Very similar to the CP jackhammer you linked to.
    So that is simply breaking the rocks with a chisel bit in a jackhammer.

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  • From Leon Fisk@21:1/5 to Richard Smith on Fri Mar 1 13:56:51 2024
    On Fri, 01 Mar 2024 17:09:30 +0000
    Richard Smith <null@void.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    Solution come into view - will run an airline up the raise and use out >"Holman 303" sinker (jackhammer).
    Very similar to the CP jackhammer you linked to.
    So that is simply breaking the rocks with a chisel bit in a jackhammer.

    If you already have the equipment... might as well find out if it will
    work for this job👍

    --
    Leon Fisk
    Grand Rapids MI

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  • From Leon Fisk@21:1/5 to Richard Smith on Fri Mar 1 18:09:46 2024
    On Fri, 01 Mar 2024 21:46:52 +0000
    Richard Smith <null@void.com> wrote:

    Also, might as well take extension-lead, the mains-powered SDS drill and >different sized drill-bits up to larger size and see what it will do
    into the mine's granite from the at-surface pile.
    Use what I have.
    Develop an idea of what power is needed to drill what hole size - for >"feathers" to split rocks.
    In case do have to get a cordless / battery powered drill.

    Very good idea👍

    If you have any equipment rental companies in the area... may well be
    worth trying-before-buying from them too.

    --
    Leon Fisk
    Grand Rapids MI

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to All on Fri Mar 1 21:46:52 2024
    Yes.
    Also, might as well take extension-lead, the mains-powered SDS drill and different sized drill-bits up to larger size and see what it will do
    into the mine's granite from the at-surface pile.
    Use what I have.
    Develop an idea of what power is needed to drill what hole size - for "feathers" to split rocks.
    In case do have to get a cordless / battery powered drill.

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  • From Peter Fairbrother@21:1/5 to Richard Smith on Mon Mar 4 06:58:56 2024
    On 28/02/2024 14:55, Richard Smith wrote:
    We covered like topic before - buck/boost.
    Just need to "buck" - reduce voltage from 18V to 12V


    Not sure it's a good idea, see below and elsewhere, but if I were doing
    it I'd go for a converter rated for at least 3 or 4 times the approx 10A
    stall current, likely to cost around £30.

    eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195597726440 DC 24V To DC 13.8V 40A 552W
    Step Down Converter.

    If you need plastic bits 3D printing can help. .stls of the common
    connectors are readily available online, and though typically not very
    good, they can be adapted.

    The metal parts are usually not too hard to make with simple hand tools,
    shears and files etc, and a heavy duty soldering iron.


    Want an SDS drill small enough to carry in a shoulder-bag through a mine
    - but use existing 18V batteries - not expensive option of starting
    stock of 12V batteries.
    For drilling holes - 10mm or 14mm for "feathers" - rock-splitting
    wedges. Into hard granite - so needs a "serious" hammer-action drill.

    Most 12v drills are not going to be capable of that. In fact, most
    18v/20v (typically they are the same, both batteries and tools, 20v just
    sounds better) drills aren't going to find it easy, but ymmv.

    Also a good hammer action is going to be heavy. Do you want SDS plus or
    SDS Max?

    I'd think a good SDS plus would be enough, something rated for 22m in
    concrete, 16mm in steel.



    You don't say what sort of 12v drill or 18v batteries you already have?


    Peter Fairbrother

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to All on Mon Mar 4 09:07:40 2024
    Current type:
    Dewalt "XR" 18V.
    Have for for current pistol-grip drill and driver - pair for
    "general building work".

    Thanks for linking me to a representative converter 20-ish volts to
    13.8V which you reckon overall is up to the job - 40A device.

    The tool gets bigger, it is marginally capable of the job, and it's good
    money after bad.
    Had the tool taken the batteries I have, I could have even piloted and
    drilled to size to keep down the size of what I take dow the mine - this
    being only for if get a granite boulder I need to break apart to make
    easier to take away. Carry in a shoulder bag for if-and-when.
    That "solution" gone.

    I tool a 240V SDS drill to the mine https://www.wickes.co.uk/Einhell-TE-RH-32E-5kg-Rotary-Hammer-Drill---1250W/p/208095
    [successor model
    https://www.einhell.co.uk/p/4257944-te-rh-32-4f-kit/
    on maker's website]
    and tried it on the mine granite brought to the surface.
    That granite is hard tough stuff.
    I will take a greater range of drill bits and form a map of what can be
    done with that SDS drill.
    This one is rated at "5J" (5 Joules of energy) for the impact action.

    "I'd think a good SDS plus would be enough, something rated for 22m in
    concrete, 16mm in steel."
    I'd guess so - will update if find anything different.

    Anyway, good news is plan for coming session - going to run an air-hose
    up the raise and use a jackhammer to break up the rocks lying around on
    that sub-level.

    Explanation offered by an ex-miner why boulders there...
    When used as a training mine, they showed going into the side of the
    tunnel as if looking if lode went that way, and didn't use enough
    blasting medium to shatter and break up the rock - said needed twice as
    much blasting medium.

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  • From Peter Fairbrother@21:1/5 to Richard Smith on Mon Mar 4 11:11:35 2024
    On 04/03/2024 09:07, Richard Smith wrote:
    Current type:
    Dewalt "XR" 18V.

    DCH133 @ about £100 ?

    There is granite and granite, but

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNat1FCDfiA


    Peter Fairbrother

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Peter Fairbrother on Mon Mar 4 21:10:45 2024
    Peter Fairbrother <peter@tsto.co.uk> writes:

    On 04/03/2024 09:07, Richard Smith wrote:
    Current type:
    Dewalt "XR" 18V.

    DCH133 @ about £100 ?

    There is granite and granite, but

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNat1FCDfiA


    Peter Fairbrother

    Must be doing something right because I also found that channel. The comparison you found - the two plausible "classic electric drill shaped"
    SDS drills - going into granite is about as good as it gets. Didn't
    find that exact one.

    30-something 12mm holes in granite implies I should be just fine for
    shooting holes into granite for "feathers" (splitting wedges).
    The 14mm (9/16ths") ones arrived today, BTW.
    If the 10mm "feathers" work well, should be fine even when down the mine
    with big piles of granite rocks to deal with.

    Having spent all this time, will probably go for one - likely the
    newer-model drill.
    Seems to have enough of an advantage to be worth that extra "headroom" in performance.
    Slower revs but more impact = longer drill-bit life?
    I have something like 3 or 4 of the DeWalt "XR" 18V batteries. going
    with my other DeWalt tools.
    So should be fine down the mine.
    Or doing some prospecting. Or whatever.

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Peter Fairbrother on Wed Mar 6 11:14:24 2024
    Peter Fairbrother <peter@tsto.co.uk> writes:

    On 04/03/2024 09:07, Richard Smith wrote:
    Current type:
    Dewalt "XR" 18V.

    DCH133 @ about £100 ?

    There is granite and granite, but

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNat1FCDfiA


    Peter Fairbrother

    Went for the
    DeWalt DCH263N

    In that test (and others?) there seemed to be enough advantage to the
    DCH263, in max drill size, drilling rate and amount of holes drilled per battery charge. Plus the price is 20quid higher - not vast difference.

    Hopefully will report back what it can do.
    Aiming for weeks time at the mine.

    Rich S

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Wed Mar 6 14:05:13 2024
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:m1msrbpq7j.fsf@void.com...

    Peter Fairbrother <peter@tsto.co.uk> writes:

    On 04/03/2024 09:07, Richard Smith wrote:

    Went for the DeWalt DCH263N

    Nice drill, beyond my price range to buy new.
    Are they paying you for this?

    No.

    But haven't got a "cordless" SDS drill, price pretty good for "bare"
    drill and have the batteries already for my "carpentry type" driver (for wood-screws) and drill (for wood-bits going into joists etc.)

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to All on Wed Mar 6 15:03:34 2024
    You are probably seeing the price in a pretty box with two
    large-capacity batteries - 4Ah or 5Ah.

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Fri Mar 8 07:47:07 2024
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:m134t3flmh.fsf@void.com...

    You are probably seeing the price in a pretty box with two
    large-capacity batteries - 4Ah or 5Ah.

    ---------------------------------

    I've used a large powerful drill to cut 4" holes for conduit in steel
    and would rather not have to need to again. It was inside a
    closet-sized electrical enclosure and when the hole saw jammed the long-handled geared drill would continue for another quarter turn,
    whether or not some part of me was in the way.

    The Makita is something of a beast too, but I use it outside. When
    with a crew I feel like the squad member who has the machine gun.

    Got the DeWalt DCH263 - arrived.
    Seems for-real - batteries I already have fit it, etc.
    Bought a couple of SDS masonry drill-bits - 14mm and 10mm.

    Already have 14mm "feathers" - splitting wedges.

    Hope to take them to the mine next week and see if can split rocks -
    this hard granite.

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Fri Mar 8 14:11:16 2024
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:m1il1x6u84.fsf@void.com...

    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:m134t3flmh.fsf@void.com...

    You are probably seeing the price in a pretty box with two
    large-capacity batteries - 4Ah or 5Ah.

    ---------------------------------

    I've used a large powerful drill to cut 4" holes for conduit in steel
    and would rather not have to need to again. It was inside a
    closet-sized electrical enclosure and when the hole saw jammed the
    long-handled geared drill would continue for another quarter turn,
    whether or not some part of me was in the way.

    The Makita is something of a beast too, but I use it outside. When
    with a crew I feel like the squad member who has the machine gun.

    Got the DeWalt DCH263 - arrived.
    Seems for-real - batteries I already have fit it, etc.
    Bought a couple of SDS masonry drill-bits - 14mm and 10mm.

    Already have 14mm "feathers" - splitting wedges.

    Hope to take them to the mine next week and see if can split rocks -
    this hard granite.

    --------------------------------
    The advice from Trow and Holden was about splitting granite neatly in
    a quarry. The miners may have other ways to split it roughly to
    dispose of it.

    The only way I've seen was with the hydraulic jackhammer on an
    excavator, and it could take perhaps an hour to crack a large granite
    boulder left from blasting and meant for fill. They drilled to blast
    but not to break up the rubble.

    Amazed at supplies store here in UK - one link was "black powder".
    Followed the link - is used by stonemasons - makes total sense.
    Will part rock from rock - but not shatter the rock - which a "modern"
    blasting medium would.

    So you saw unusable stone - for some reason - shape, flaws, etc.? -
    which they had to break-up?

    Probably mentioned previously - the task at the mine is said to be
    because, although they used a brisant blasting medium, they didn't use
    enough of it to shatter rock into easily-managed small stuff.
    Which nett is usually much cheaper (?) than having to break up big
    rocks.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to All on Fri Mar 15 13:31:43 2024
    Hi everyone.

    Posted at top of thread - wishing to thank everyone who contributed to
    this "journey" whose extent (effort, duration) I never anticipated.

    Here is the outcome - what a surprise. In a very pleasant way!
    There is hope this is "for real".
    I handed the equipment to another person who came by to see how I as
    getting on, and trying it he concurs - it works and it is to be hoped
    this is "for real".

    http://www.weldsmith.co.uk/tech/minerals/240314_rocksplit/240314_rocksplit_drill_feathers.html
    "Rock-split granite with "cordless" SDS drill and "feathers""

    Well would you ever have believed it...?!

    Best wishes,
    Rich Smith

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  • From Clare Snyder@21:1/5 to All on Fri Mar 15 10:24:02 2024
    On Fri, 15 Mar 2024 13:31:43 +0000, Richard Smith <null@void.com>
    wrote:

    Hi everyone.

    Posted at top of thread - wishing to thank everyone who contributed to
    this "journey" whose extent (effort, duration) I never anticipated.

    Here is the outcome - what a surprise. In a very pleasant way!
    There is hope this is "for real".
    I handed the equipment to another person who came by to see how I as
    getting on, and trying it he concurs - it works and it is to be hoped
    this is "for real".

    http://www.weldsmith.co.uk/tech/minerals/240314_rocksplit/240314_rocksplit_drill_feathers.html
    "Rock-split granite with "cordless" SDS drill and "feathers""

    Well would you ever have believed it...?!

    Best wishes,
    Rich Smith
    Excellent, Rick

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  • From Leon Fisk@21:1/5 to Richard Smith on Fri Mar 15 11:31:24 2024
    On Fri, 15 Mar 2024 13:31:43 +0000
    Richard Smith <null@void.com> wrote:

    <snip> >http://www.weldsmith.co.uk/tech/minerals/240314_rocksplit/240314_rocksplit_drill_feathers.html
    "Rock-split granite with "cordless" SDS drill and "feathers""

    Rich,

    NICE job! You have a working solution to this problem👍

    Forgive me... but my mind immediately went to why not make (or buy)
    some larger feathers to fit the Pneumatic drill hole and maybe some
    smaller feathers so your battery drill could use a smaller drill hole🤔

    --
    Leon Fisk
    Grand Rapids MI

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Fri Mar 15 18:37:57 2024
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

    "Leon Fisk" wrote in message news:ut1pkd$293a4$1@dont-email.me...

    On Fri, 15 Mar 2024 13:31:43 +0000
    Richard Smith <null@void.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    http://www.weldsmith.co.uk/tech/minerals/240314_rocksplit/240314_rocksplit_drill_feathers.html
    "Rock-split granite with "cordless" SDS drill and "feathers""

    Rich,

    NICE job! You have a working solution to this problem👍

    Forgive me... but my mind immediately went to why not make (or buy)
    some larger feathers to fit the Pneumatic drill hole and maybe some
    smaller feathers so your battery drill could use a smaller drill hole🤔

    If I'd got the Trow & Holden feathers they would have been as-described
    and I could use a 10mm drill

    (/f (expt 10 2) (expt 14 2)) ;; 0.5102040816326531

    Half the area and volume drilled.

    "I had to start somewhere" :-)

    Best wishes,

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Leon Fisk on Fri Mar 15 18:35:24 2024
    Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid> writes:

    On Fri, 15 Mar 2024 13:31:43 +0000
    Richard Smith <null@void.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    http://www.weldsmith.co.uk/tech/minerals/240314_rocksplit/240314_rocksplit_drill_feathers.html
    "Rock-split granite with "cordless" SDS drill and "feathers""

    Rich,

    NICE job! You have a working solution to this problem👍

    Forgive me... but my mind immediately went to why not make (or buy)
    some larger feathers to fit the Pneumatic drill hole and maybe some
    smaller feathers so your battery drill could use a smaller drill hole🤔

    Not at all "forgive" - comment welcomed.

    There are some large feathers for the 32mm to 34mm hole.
    Thing is, from my observation, they work no better than the small
    feathers on this granite.
    Line of small holes with matching feathers is "it".

    Problem is the compressor isn't running all the time.
    Would be in a working mine, but this is a "hobby" mine.
    Splitting rocks and clearing debris is like an infil job which comes
    when it comes.
    Takes several people and some time to get the compressor running.
    Not going to happen when you find yourself with some time mid-way
    through a club morning at the mine.

    If I could make some wedges of the same taper but thinner, maybe could
    come down to a 12mm / half-inch hole
    Area-ratio, so proportional to diameter-squared
    (/f (expt 14 2) (expt 12 2)) ;; 1.3611111111111112
    (/f (expt 12 2) (expt 14 2)) ;; 0.7346938775510204
    73% of the area.
    Would be well worth having.

    Yes absolutely {thumbs-up}

    Best wishes, Rich Smith

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to All on Fri Mar 15 18:48:16 2024
    Thanks again everyone.
    Lots of very encouraging words - appreciated.
    When I wrote that webpage on the working solution I recalled how much interconnected detail there is in getting there.

    Is it worth writing those webpages?
    Well it seems as if a lot of things is like climbing an ice face with two picks, and you don't let any grip be feeble.
    I get a lot of help and hopefully to some extent earn it.

    Best wishes

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Leon Fisk@21:1/5 to Richard Smith on Fri Mar 15 15:41:06 2024
    On Fri, 15 Mar 2024 18:35:24 +0000
    Richard Smith <null@void.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    There are some large feathers for the 32mm to 34mm hole.
    Thing is, from my observation, they work no better than the small
    feathers on this granite.

    My thinking was if there were already big holes drilled and the piece
    hadn't been split you wouldn't have to make more holes.

    Regarding whether to make a webpage with stuff like this... I gain info
    from lots of web pages that aren't exactly about the problem I'm trying
    to solve. I find them useful. You do a lot of the same. You're able to
    apply a concept or idea elsewhere in a completely unrelated field. As
    I've aged I now realize a lot of people can't do this😑

    --
    Leon Fisk
    Grand Rapids MI

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Leon Fisk on Fri Mar 15 13:10:57 2024
    On 3/15/2024 12:41 PM, Leon Fisk wrote:
    On Fri, 15 Mar 2024 18:35:24 +0000
    Richard Smith <null@void.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    There are some large feathers for the 32mm to 34mm hole.
    Thing is, from my observation, they work no better than the small
    feathers on this granite.

    My thinking was if there were already big holes drilled and the piece
    hadn't been split you wouldn't have to make more holes.

    Regarding whether to make a webpage with stuff like this... I gain info
    from lots of web pages that aren't exactly about the problem I'm trying
    to solve. I find them useful. You do a lot of the same. You're able to
    apply a concept or idea elsewhere in a completely unrelated field. As
    I've aged I now realize a lot of people can't do this😑



    I used to call it relational hooks. There more stuff you know the
    easier it is to learn other stuff.

    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
    www.avg.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From David Billington@21:1/5 to Richard Smith on Fri Mar 15 20:22:32 2024
    On 15/03/2024 18:35, Richard Smith wrote:
    Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid> writes:

    On Fri, 15 Mar 2024 13:31:43 +0000
    Richard Smith <null@void.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    http://www.weldsmith.co.uk/tech/minerals/240314_rocksplit/240314_rocksplit_drill_feathers.html
    "Rock-split granite with "cordless" SDS drill and "feathers""
    Rich,

    NICE job! You have a working solution to this problem👍

    Forgive me... but my mind immediately went to why not make (or buy)
    some larger feathers to fit the Pneumatic drill hole and maybe some
    smaller feathers so your battery drill could use a smaller drill hole🤔
    Not at all "forgive" - comment welcomed.

    There are some large feathers for the 32mm to 34mm hole.
    Thing is, from my observation, they work no better than the small
    feathers on this granite.
    Line of small holes with matching feathers is "it".

    Problem is the compressor isn't running all the time.
    Would be in a working mine, but this is a "hobby" mine.
    Splitting rocks and clearing debris is like an infil job which comes
    when it comes.
    Takes several people and some time to get the compressor running.
    Not going to happen when you find yourself with some time mid-way
    through a club morning at the mine.

    If I could make some wedges of the same taper but thinner, maybe could
    come down to a 12mm / half-inch hole
    Area-ratio, so proportional to diameter-squared
    (/f (expt 14 2) (expt 12 2)) ;; 1.3611111111111112
    (/f (expt 12 2) (expt 14 2)) ;; 0.7346938775510204
    73% of the area.
    Would be well worth having.

    Yes absolutely {thumbs-up}

    Best wishes, Rich Smith

    Richard,

    Have you tried or considered the old method of dry wood hammered into
    the holes and then wetting it, not something I've tried but an article
    here https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Rock-split-by-using-the-swelling-pressure-of-wood-Egypt-2001_fig5_267834899
    .

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From David Billington@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sat Mar 16 00:50:43 2024
    On 15/03/2024 22:47, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "David Billington"  wrote in message news:ut2am8$2ev2g$1@dont-email.me...

    Richard,

    Have you tried or considered the old method of dry wood hammered into
    the holes and then wetting it, not something I've tried but an article
    here https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Rock-split-by-using-the-swelling-pressure-of-wood-Egypt-2001_fig5_267834899

    .
    ---------------------------------
    I don't put much faith in academic scholars' guesses about Egyptian
    tech. The pyramid stones weigh around 5000 Lbs, a weight a small crew
    with j-bars can slide onto a flat bed truck, BTDT. I've lifted 4000 Lb
    logs to block them up off the damp ground. https://www.sunbeltrentals.com/equipment-rental/forklifts/johnson-bar/1501085/

    It was a technique I was told about decades ago as being a traditional
    method, the scholar's paper was just the first I came across when I
    searched for information.

    There are similar splitting cuts in stones at Mystery Hill in Salem
    NH, USA. The guides' explanation is that they were cut with a thin
    chisel for iron splitting wedges before the star drill was invented in
    the early 1800's. Water is easily squeezed out of wet wood. https://mysteryhillnh.info/

    A similar but undercut slot is used to lift stones: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lewis_(lifting_appliance)
    The 3 legged one was a status symbol for Church officials.


    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Peter Fairbrother@21:1/5 to David Billington on Sat Mar 16 03:39:40 2024
    On 15/03/2024 20:22, David Billington wrote:
    On 15/03/2024 18:35, Richard Smith wrote:

    http://www.weldsmith.co.uk/tech/minerals/240314_rocksplit/240314_rocksplit_drill_feathers.html
    "Rock-split granite with "cordless" SDS drill and "feathers""

    Yeaay!


    Have you tried or considered the old method of dry wood hammered into
    the holes and then wetting it, not something I've tried but an article
    here https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Rock-split-by-using-the-swelling-pressure-of-wood-Egypt-2001_fig5_267834899 .

    I believe there is a modern high-tech variant, famously exemplified when
    Jason Statham uses an expanding plug to crack the glass bottom of a
    mid-air swimming pool.

    Ah yes, Dexpan, Crackamite and/or Expando. I thought it was real ...


    Peter Fairbrother

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to David Billington on Sat Mar 16 07:23:54 2024
    David Billington <djb@invalid.com> writes:

    On 15/03/2024 18:35, Richard Smith wrote:
    Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid> writes:

    On Fri, 15 Mar 2024 13:31:43 +0000
    Richard Smith <null@void.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    http://www.weldsmith.co.uk/tech/minerals/240314_rocksplit/240314_rocksplit_drill_feathers.html
    "Rock-split granite with "cordless" SDS drill and "feathers""
    Rich,

    NICE job! You have a working solution to this problem👍

    Forgive me... but my mind immediately went to why not make (or buy)
    some larger feathers to fit the Pneumatic drill hole and maybe some
    smaller feathers so your battery drill could use a smaller drill hole🤔 >> Not at all "forgive" - comment welcomed.

    There are some large feathers for the 32mm to 34mm hole.
    Thing is, from my observation, they work no better than the small
    feathers on this granite.
    Line of small holes with matching feathers is "it".

    Problem is the compressor isn't running all the time.
    Would be in a working mine, but this is a "hobby" mine.
    Splitting rocks and clearing debris is like an infil job which comes
    when it comes.
    Takes several people and some time to get the compressor running.
    Not going to happen when you find yourself with some time mid-way
    through a club morning at the mine.

    If I could make some wedges of the same taper but thinner, maybe could
    come down to a 12mm / half-inch hole
    Area-ratio, so proportional to diameter-squared
    (/f (expt 14 2) (expt 12 2)) ;; 1.3611111111111112
    (/f (expt 12 2) (expt 14 2)) ;; 0.7346938775510204
    73% of the area.
    Would be well worth having.

    Yes absolutely {thumbs-up}

    Best wishes, Rich Smith

    Richard,

    Have you tried or considered the old method of dry wood hammered into
    the holes and then wetting it, not something I've tried but an article
    here https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Rock-split-by-using-the-swelling-pressure-of-wood-Egypt-2001_fig5_267834899
    .

    Not tried it - should, to respect forebearers and live their experience.
    Modern there is "splitting compound". Mix the powder with water - is
    expansile when "sets" - can be used to burst rocks. Never tried that.
    But yes if find opportunity would be good to try the ancient method and experience it. Would be good feeling of treading prior footsteps should
    I get it to work.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Leon Fisk on Sat Mar 16 07:18:31 2024
    Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid> writes:

    On Fri, 15 Mar 2024 18:35:24 +0000
    Richard Smith <null@void.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    There are some large feathers for the 32mm to 34mm hole.
    Thing is, from my observation, they work no better than the small
    feathers on this granite.

    My thinking was if there were already big holes drilled and the piece
    hadn't been split you wouldn't have to make more holes.

    Regarding whether to make a webpage with stuff like this... I gain info
    from lots of web pages that aren't exactly about the problem I'm trying
    to solve. I find them useful. You do a lot of the same. You're able to
    apply a concept or idea elsewhere in a completely unrelated field. As
    I've aged I now realize a lot of people can't do this😑

    I had that explained to me when I was in my mid-20's. I was confused -
    by just about everything - then chance had a significant encounter.
    Husband of a lady who grew up next door.

    He explained - the problem is everyone else - because as he explained i
    was seeing things - correlations - they would never see.
    With people I like I have learned to handle that - let them see that I
    see these things and can make good results happen. If you otherwise fit
    in, they will relate to things like "this is the sole employer in town
    and we need it to survive". Was a happy time when I lived in "cider
    country" in England. The technical part of my brain was very functional
    then - warnings of becoming a "local yokel" were unfounded. "Win-win" situation.

    I've told you something jolly.
    In Britain I have to work in jobs like welder because the ability is frightening in a highly managerialised society.
    Any difference from "mainstream average of averages" is instant
    rejection.
    That said - the vision of them hiding under their desks and whispering
    to each other "Has he gone yet?" is amusing. I tend to pour it on
    thickly when it's obvious this interview is going nowhere.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From David Billington@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sat Mar 16 13:35:26 2024
    On 16/03/2024 11:05, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Richard Smith"  wrote in message news:m1wmq28ws5.fsf@void.com...

    Not tried it - should, to respect forebearers and live their experience. Modern there is "splitting compound".  Mix the powder with water - is expansile when "sets" - can be used to burst rocks.  Never tried that.
    But yes if find opportunity would be good to try the ancient method and experience it.  Would be good feeling of treading prior footsteps should
    I get it to work.

    ----------------------------

    I have a 10,000# pressure load cell and lots of dry wedge-shaped oak
    chips created by the log splitter, so I'll try it after today's
    chores. My experience from splitting heavy wet firewood small enough
    to lift to the top of the stack is that an axe hit inadequate to split
    the wood forces water from it on both sides.

    What sort of oak? I'm reminded my doctor had an oak mail box made at
    some expense and it didn't fare well outdoors and from what I was told
    by a couple of woodworkers it must have been red oak as that's not
    durable outdoors. English oak, European oak and American white oak is
    durable so maybe some wood is better for splitting rock than others.

    I had another look at the wet wood splitting and saw mention of wet wood
    being hammered in and allowed to freeze in the winter to cause splitting.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From David Billington@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sat Mar 16 23:49:11 2024
    On 16/03/2024 23:36, Jim Wilkins wrote:


    "Jim Wilkins"  wrote in message news:ut5195$334ch$1@dont-email.me...

    "Jim Wilkins"  wrote in message news:ut4jh5$309ec$1@dont-email.me...

    I doubled it to 200 Lbs, one tick mark,  on a 3/8" thick square of red
    oak
    in a plastic bag and added water about 20 minutes ago. So far the gauge needle hasn't moved.
    -----------------------
    4 hours later, if anything the pressure has decreased by the pointer
    width.
    Into the freezer with it, until I need the space for the kettle of
    beef stew
    I'm cooking.
    ----------------------------------------
    2 more hours, 0F, the pressure is zero and the C clamp isn't tight.
    Out to see if the pressure recovers as the gauge warms.

    It does, a little.

    Either wet wedging doesn't work or I missed something.

    Why I asked about the type of oak is that I was told red oak has an open
    cell structure and can allow water to wick into the wood easily which
    isn't the case with other types of oak, maybe in this case that is
    preventing any cellular swelling or allowing any pressure to squeeze the
    water out. Can you repeat the test with white oak. I have some English
    oak here but my force gauge is out of action until I replace the
    loadcell lead.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From David Billington@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sun Mar 17 02:41:00 2024
    On 17/03/2024 00:23, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "David Billington"  wrote in message news:ut5b5o$352d4$1@dont-email.me...

    On 16/03/2024 23:36, Jim Wilkins wrote:


    "Jim Wilkins"  wrote in message news:ut5195$334ch$1@dont-email.me...

    "Jim Wilkins"  wrote in message news:ut4jh5$309ec$1@dont-email.me...

    I doubled it to 200 Lbs, one tick mark,  on a 3/8" thick square of
    red oak
    in a plastic bag and added water about 20 minutes ago. So far the gauge
    needle hasn't moved.
    -----------------------
    4 hours later, if anything the pressure has decreased by the pointer
    width.
    Into the freezer with it, until I need the space for the kettle of
    beef stew
    I'm cooking.
    ----------------------------------------
    2 more hours, 0F, the pressure is zero and the C clamp isn't tight.
    Out to see if the pressure recovers as the gauge warms.

    It does, a little.

    Either wet wedging doesn't work or I missed something.

    Why I asked about the type of oak is that I was told red oak has an open
    cell structure and can allow water to wick into the wood easily which
    isn't the case with other types of oak, maybe in this case that is
    preventing any cellular swelling or allowing any pressure to squeeze the water out. Can you repeat the test with white oak. I have some English
    oak here but my force gauge is out of action until I replace the
    loadcell lead.
    ---------------------------------
    My white oak is still in logs so sample prep could take a while and
    this is a busy time of year, I need to split and stack next year's
    firewood to dry, upgrade a few things on the sawmill and get the logs
    out of my front yard. I paused outdoor projects in mid December and
    began again in February. The question is academic if steel wedges and feathers are available.

    The gauge has warmed up and the pressure recovered, so maybe the gauge
    oil shrank?

    More on splitting stone: https://www.dartmoorcam.co.uk/CAM/SplittingGranite.htm


    Did you read that page as they mention the process I mentioned and you
    were trying to test.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Leon Fisk@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sun Mar 17 11:49:57 2024
    On Sun, 17 Mar 2024 10:13:18 -0400
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    Supposedly tree roots can split boulders. I pulled a live root out of a
    crack and squeezed it with pliers, and found that it was soft and easily >compressed.

    One only has to observe misc plants pushing through pavement to
    realize there are some interesting properties involving force
    involved...

    --
    Leon Fisk
    Grand Rapids MI

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  • From Leon Fisk@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sun Mar 17 14:27:41 2024
    On Sun, 17 Mar 2024 12:45:32 -0400
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    The condition of our paved and dirt roads during spring thaw/freeze cycles >shows the powerful effects of water without plants being involved. I think >plants merely take advantage of existing opportunity.

    I usually observe this with relatively new pavement laid down over
    an area that had weeds growing but graded off. The "weed" will push the pavement up, volcano like and continue growing. Some examples of
    questionable authenticity:


    https://www.dreamstime.com/stock-photo-weed-growing-crack-pavement-green-plant-asphalt-image62240672

    https://www.alamy.com/plant-growing-through-pavement-image60063689.html

    --
    Leon Fisk
    Grand Rapids MI

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  • From Leon Fisk@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sun Mar 17 15:52:24 2024
    On Sun, 17 Mar 2024 15:28:35 -0400
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    Much talk, minimal data:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turgor_pressure

    Some data with footnotes down the page for plants, roots and fungi...

    ===
    "The action of turgor pressure on extensible cell walls is usually said
    to be the driving force of growth within the cell.[17] An increase of
    turgor pressure causes expansion of cells and extension of apical
    cells, pollen tubes, and other plant structures such as root tips. Cell expansion and an increase in turgor pressure is due to inward diffusion
    of water into the cell, and turgor pressure increases due to the
    increasing volume of vacuolar sap. A growing root cell's turgor
    pressure can be up to 0.6 MPa, which is over three times that of a car
    tire. Epidermal cells in a leaf can have pressures ranging from 1.5 to
    2.0 MPa.[18] These high pressures can explain why plants can grow
    through asphalt and other hard surfaces."
    ===

    I hastily done paving job or hole patch with asphalt during the summer
    quite often demonstrates this...

    --
    Leon Fisk
    Grand Rapids MI

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Clare Snyder@21:1/5 to All on Sun Mar 17 20:22:25 2024
    On Sun, 17 Mar 2024 14:27:41 -0400, Leon Fisk <lfiskgr@gmail.invalid>
    wrote:

    On Sun, 17 Mar 2024 12:45:32 -0400
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:

    <snip>
    The condition of our paved and dirt roads during spring thaw/freeze cycles >>shows the powerful effects of water without plants being involved. I think >>plants merely take advantage of existing opportunity.

    I usually observe this with relatively new pavement laid down over
    an area that had weeds growing but graded off. The "weed" will push the >pavement up, volcano like and continue growing. Some examples of
    questionable authenticity:


    https://www.dreamstime.com/stock-photo-weed-growing-crack-pavement-green-plant-asphalt-image62240672

    https://www.alamy.com/plant-growing-through-pavement-image60063689.html


    They are authentic all right!!! I've seen even worse after some
    fly-by-night driveway pavers have "enlarged" a driveway.

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to All on Fri Mar 22 00:16:28 2024
    Hello again all. Another update:

    http://www.weldsmith.co.uk/tech/minerals/240314_rocksplit/240321_rocksplit_dr_fth_conf.html
    "Rock-split granite boulders confirmed"

    "Batching" - all equipment works fine and good "production-rate".
    Seems "proven".
    Very unexpected bonus.
    Plans now on what end-point sought for mine with clearing boulders.

    All seeming brilliant.
    Rich S

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