"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v4siak$1f893$1@dont-email.me...
I plan to use this set just for gunsmith only tools, cleaning supplies,
and parts. It will clean out several drawers and a couple square feet
of surface on my front office work bench. I may put some reloading
supplies and a couple presses in it as well if the bottom drawers are
deep enough. Well, until I get the file cabinets out of the file room,
and get a proper work bench built in that room.
Bob La Londe
---------------------------
Do you know a good non-fouling target load for a "BP-only" 45-70 Sharps
or original Trapdoor?
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v4siak$1f893$1@dont-email.me...
I plan to use this set just for gunsmith only tools, cleaning supplies,
and parts. It will clean out several drawers and a couple square feet
of surface on my front office work bench. I may put some reloading
supplies and a couple presses in it as well if the bottom drawers are
deep enough. Well, until I get the file cabinets out of the file room,
and get a proper work bench built in that room.
Bob La Londe
---------------------------
Do you know a good non-fouling target load for a "BP-only" 45-70 Sharps
or original Trapdoor?
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v4siak$1f893$1@dont-email.me...
I plan to use this set just for gunsmith only tools, cleaning supplies,
and parts. It will clean out several drawers and a couple square feet
of surface on my front office work bench. I may put some reloading
supplies and a couple presses in it as well if the bottom drawers are
deep enough. Well, until I get the file cabinets out of the file room,
and get a proper work bench built in that room.
Bob La Londe
---------------------------
Do you know a good non-fouling target load for a "BP-only" 45-70 Sharps
or original Trapdoor?
I saw a couple US General tool boxes listed on Nextdoor for $200. It
didn't say "firm" or anything like that so I made an offer of $150 and
didn't hear back. A couple days later I sent a message asking, "Are
these still available." (I hate that auto message, but in this case it seemed suitable.) I would have paid $200, but since he didn't say firm...
Shortly after my second message I received a message apologizing for not getting back with me and accepting my offer of $150.
For those who don't know US General is a Harbor Freight brand. I have a couple a couple or three tool carts with drawers int he back for tool
carts for manual machine tools. They don't quite have enough space,
which is why I ordered the Yukon boxes I talked about in Snag's tool
score post. They are decent, and have held up fairly well. I thought I knew what to expect.
In person the US General toolboxes were better built than the tool carts
I have. I never really looked at them close in the store. The top box
was a lot heavier than I expected, and very solid feeling. More so than most. The bottom roller cabinet was also similarly solid and heavy.
I had not looked up the price on line, but I knew I his original asking
price was a good deal, and my offer was a steal. I was feeling a little guilty so I asked why he was getting rid of them. His wife said he
could buy a bigger set of tool boxes, but he had to sell his old one...
and he had actually bought them at a discount as a return item. I
didn't feel so bad for the price I paid.
After feeling how solid the boxes are and getting them home I looked
them up on line. The regular retail price on the pair (399.99 + 299.99)
is quite a lot more than I expected. About what I paid for the two
Yukon boxes I ordered the other day. Even if you waited for the extra
rare big discount coupons (that usually exclude tool boxes anyway) I
stole those tool boxes.
I plan to use this set just for gunsmith only tools, cleaning supplies,
and parts. It will clean out several drawers and a couple square feet
of surface on my front office work bench. I may put some reloading
supplies and a couple presses in it as well if the bottom drawers are
deep enough. Well, until I get the file cabinets out of the file room,
and get a proper work bench built in that room.
On 6/18/2024 2:03 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v4siak$1f893$1@dont-email.me...
I plan to use this set just for gunsmith only tools, cleaning supplies,
and parts. It will clean out several drawers and a couple square feet
of surface on my front office work bench. I may put some reloading
supplies and a couple presses in it as well if the bottom drawers are
deep enough. Well, until I get the file cabinets out of the file room,
and get a proper work bench built in that room.
Bob La Londe
---------------------------
Do you know a good non-fouling target load for a "BP-only" 45-70
Sharps or original Trapdoor?
Powder or lead fouling ? Have you tried triple 7 ?
than BP but it burns pretty clean and the residue isn't as corrosive as
the real thing . Are you casting your own slugs ? Gas checks ?
On 6/18/2024 12:03 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v4siak$1f893$1@dont-email.me...
I plan to use this set just for gunsmith only tools, cleaning supplies,
and parts. It will clean out several drawers and a couple square feet
of surface on my front office work bench. I may put some reloading
supplies and a couple presses in it as well if the bottom drawers are
deep enough. Well, until I get the file cabinets out of the file room,
and get a proper work bench built in that room.
Bob La Londe
---------------------------
Do you know a good non-fouling target load for a "BP-only" 45-70
Sharps or original Trapdoor?
I do have a BP loading manual somewhere that I can use to look up some
loads if you like, but you may be more comfortable buying your own copy
than taking the word of "some guy on the Internet."
On 6/18/2024 12:03 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v4siak$1f893$1@dont-email.me...
I plan to use this set just for gunsmith only tools, cleaning supplies,
and parts. It will clean out several drawers and a couple square feet
of surface on my front office work bench. I may put some reloading
supplies and a couple presses in it as well if the bottom drawers are
deep enough. Well, until I get the file cabinets out of the file room,
and get a proper work bench built in that room.
Bob La Londe
---------------------------
Do you know a good non-fouling target load for a "BP-only" 45-70
Sharps or original Trapdoor?
I do have a BP loading manual somewhere that I can use to look up some
loads if you like, but you may be more comfortable buying your own copy
than taking the word of "some guy on the Internet."
On 6/18/2024 2:39 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 6/18/2024 12:03 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v4siak$1f893$1@dont-email.me...
I plan to use this set just for gunsmith only tools, cleaning supplies,
and parts. It will clean out several drawers and a couple square feet
of surface on my front office work bench. I may put some reloading
supplies and a couple presses in it as well if the bottom drawers are
deep enough. Well, until I get the file cabinets out of the file room, >>> and get a proper work bench built in that room.
Bob La Londe
---------------------------
Do you know a good non-fouling target load for a "BP-only" 45-70
Sharps or original Trapdoor?
I do have a BP loading manual somewhere that I can use to look up some
loads if you like, but you may be more comfortable buying your own
copy than taking the word of "some guy on the Internet."
Hodgdons has a BP loading chart on their website . I don't know if it covers BP metallic cartridges though . I was looking for load data for
1860 Remington reproduction cap-n-ball revolvers .
On 6/18/2024 1:35 PM, Snag wrote:
On 6/18/2024 2:39 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 6/18/2024 12:03 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v4siak$1f893$1@dont-email.me... >>>>
I plan to use this set just for gunsmith only tools, cleaning supplies, >>>> and parts. It will clean out several drawers and a couple square feet >>>> of surface on my front office work bench. I may put some reloading
supplies and a couple presses in it as well if the bottom drawers are
deep enough. Well, until I get the file cabinets out of the file room, >>>> and get a proper work bench built in that room.
Bob La Londe
---------------------------
Do you know a good non-fouling target load for a "BP-only" 45-70
Sharps or original Trapdoor?
I do have a BP loading manual somewhere that I can use to look up
some loads if you like, but you may be more comfortable buying your
own copy than taking the word of "some guy on the Internet."
Hodgdons has a BP loading chart on their website . I don't know if
it covers BP metallic cartridges though . I was looking for load data
for 1860 Remington reproduction cap-n-ball revolvers .
The Lyman book shows 44 revolver from 20-35gr with round ball, and from
20-30 with conical slugs. 1860 Remington army is typically a 44 cal,
and you shave .451 bullets into it.
If you are target shooting short to medium range I'd start at 20 if your lever arm will push them in deep enough. Less powder means less
fouling, although with BP that may be a distinction without a difference.
On 6/18/2024 5:06 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 6/18/2024 1:35 PM, Snag wrote:One's a .36 Navy , the other is a .44 Army . Both were built from kits
On 6/18/2024 2:39 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 6/18/2024 12:03 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v4siak$1f893$1@dont-email.me... >>>>>
I plan to use this set just for gunsmith only tools, cleaning
supplies,
and parts. It will clean out several drawers and a couple square feet >>>>> of surface on my front office work bench. I may put some reloading >>>>> supplies and a couple presses in it as well if the bottom drawers are >>>>> deep enough. Well, until I get the file cabinets out of the file
room,
and get a proper work bench built in that room.
Bob La Londe
---------------------------
Do you know a good non-fouling target load for a "BP-only" 45-70
Sharps or original Trapdoor?
I do have a BP loading manual somewhere that I can use to look up
some loads if you like, but you may be more comfortable buying your
own copy than taking the word of "some guy on the Internet."
Hodgdons has a BP loading chart on their website . I don't know if
it covers BP metallic cartridges though . I was looking for load data
for 1860 Remington reproduction cap-n-ball revolvers .
The Lyman book shows 44 revolver from 20-35gr with round ball, and
from 20-30 with conical slugs. 1860 Remington army is typically a 44
cal, and you shave .451 bullets into it.
If you are target shooting short to medium range I'd start at 20 if
your lever arm will push them in deep enough. Less powder means less
fouling, although with BP that may be a distinction without a difference.
, the .36 by me and the .44 by my father . It's been a long time since
these have been fired , but I seem to recall filling the chambers level
full and pressing a ball in flush - or a bit below . I need to replace
the hand on the .36 , I damaged it when I built it and it's never been
quite right . Got a new hand , just haven't taken time to fit it .
On 6/18/2024 5:32 PM, Snag wrote:
On 6/18/2024 5:06 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 6/18/2024 1:35 PM, Snag wrote:One's a .36 Navy , the other is a .44 Army . Both were built from
On 6/18/2024 2:39 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 6/18/2024 12:03 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v4siak$1f893$1@dont-email.me... >>>>>>
I plan to use this set just for gunsmith only tools, cleaning
supplies,
and parts. It will clean out several drawers and a couple square >>>>>> feet
of surface on my front office work bench. I may put some reloading >>>>>> supplies and a couple presses in it as well if the bottom drawers are >>>>>> deep enough. Well, until I get the file cabinets out of the file >>>>>> room,
and get a proper work bench built in that room.
Bob La Londe
---------------------------
Do you know a good non-fouling target load for a "BP-only" 45-70
Sharps or original Trapdoor?
I do have a BP loading manual somewhere that I can use to look up
some loads if you like, but you may be more comfortable buying your
own copy than taking the word of "some guy on the Internet."
Hodgdons has a BP loading chart on their website . I don't know
if it covers BP metallic cartridges though . I was looking for load
data for 1860 Remington reproduction cap-n-ball revolvers .
The Lyman book shows 44 revolver from 20-35gr with round ball, and
from 20-30 with conical slugs. 1860 Remington army is typically a 44
cal, and you shave .451 bullets into it.
If you are target shooting short to medium range I'd start at 20 if
your lever arm will push them in deep enough. Less powder means less
fouling, although with BP that may be a distinction without a
difference.
kits , the .36 by me and the .44 by my father . It's been a long time
since these have been fired , but I seem to recall filling the
chambers level full and pressing a ball in flush - or a bit below . I
need to replace the hand on the .36 , I damaged it when I built it and
it's never been quite right . Got a new hand , just haven't taken time
to fit it .
I did that the last time I shot C&B revolvers, and I recall the fouling
was pretty horrible. That was using Goex, but the first thing the BP revolver groups said was too much powder. The second was Goex produces
a lot of fouling.
A question since you have gunsmithing experience . This .36 Navy
revolver has always shot about the width of the front sight to the left
. The octagonal barrel is not clocked precisely to the frame , if I can rotate the barrel just enough to bring it into alignment it will also
correct the windage . How big a deal is this to do ? One thing - the
finish on this revolver (and my CVA .50 Plains Rifle) is straight out of
the Browning Arms tanks in SLC , courtesy of my friend since childhood ,
The MudShark . Muddy was killed in a motorcycle accident a few years ago
and I'd rather leave it the way it is rather than risk damage to the
finish .
On 6/19/2024 3:24 PM, Snag wrote:
A question since you have gunsmithing experience . This .36 Navy
revolver has always shot about the width of the front sight to the
left . The octagonal barrel is not clocked precisely to the frame , if
I can rotate the barrel just enough to bring it into alignment it will
also correct the windage . How big a deal is this to do ? One thing -
the finish on this revolver (and my CVA .50 Plains Rifle) is straight
out of the Browning Arms tanks in SLC , courtesy of my friend since
childhood , The MudShark . Muddy was killed in a motorcycle accident a
few years ago and I'd rather leave it the way it is rather than risk
damage to the finish .
First off. I hack at my own stuff more so than I am any kind of
gunsmith or have any real gunsmithing experience. Mostly I make parts
and I replace parts.
There is a lot to unpack in that question. Exactly how do you plan to
twist it all?
If I recall in the old CVA imported kit guns (I built a .36 Navy when I
was a kid) there are pins in the front of the frame that align with
holes in the barrel assembly. While not a wide stance it is a 3 point alignment with the cylinder pin.
I suppose if you can twist that assembly you will be changing the
position of the front site in relation to the rear site. In that
respect its no different than adjusting adjustable sights. Well other
than being harder and less predictable since you will be moving both the sight and the bore.
The first thing I would do is check the alignment of everything.
Just look everything over and make sure everything looks straight and
even. If anything is out find out why and see if you can fix that.
Then took a look down the bore and see if your timing is right. That
might be hard to see, so if you have access to a bore scope you might
pull a nipple, and look in from the back with the hammer in full cock or removed. If not you can try to "feel" it with a stiff wire hook tool
from the front
These kit guns vary from one series and maker to the next. If its got a blade front it might be just as easy to bend the front blade that much.
Or maybe you can work the hammer notch over... which would require
re-bluing.
Often its about what you are willing to accept to get what you want.
Recently I repainted the sight holes on a Norinco 1911A1 for the owner. Norincos are somewhat collectable since their import ban in the early
90s when they were accused of selling rocket launchers to LA gangs
(probably was made up for political expedience). I didn't want to
refinish the gun, so after spending a lot of time cleaning out the old
paint i polished on the back flat of the sights, and then reblued those surfaces only before putting new nail polish in the holes. The owner is quite happy. I told him I had to reblue it and he cringed, but after looking it over he asked... "Where?" That's what I was going for.
Yeah, soft jaws are really handy if you need to reef on something.
Leather padded plywood jaws are one of my favorites. Prismatic jaws are handy for somethings too, but simple leather padded wood works for
90-99% of the things you are likely to need to reef on.
This is all just my opinion based on my thoughts and my experiences, and
as Paul Harrell would say I have no illusions that my thoughts are
housed in a mind of greatness. LOL
Paul is a fun, entertaining, and educational GunTuber who unfortunately
is dying cancer. There was a big push to get his channel up to over a million subscribers before he died. Its over a million subscribers.
If you want to see some great restoration and repair videos check out
Mark Novak. He covers rust bluing, spring making, and a host of other interesting topics.
On 6/19/2024 6:30 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:Ah, you said Navy and I assumed it was a Navy model. Not an Army (or
On 6/19/2024 3:24 PM, Snag wrote:
A question since you have gunsmithing experience . This .36 Navy
revolver has always shot about the width of the front sight to the
left . The octagonal barrel is not clocked precisely to the frame ,
if I can rotate the barrel just enough to bring it into alignment it
will also correct the windage . How big a deal is this to do ? One
thing - the finish on this revolver (and my CVA .50 Plains Rifle) is
straight out of the Browning Arms tanks in SLC , courtesy of my
friend since childhood , The MudShark . Muddy was killed in a
motorcycle accident a few years ago and I'd rather leave it the way
it is rather than risk damage to the finish .
First off. I hack at my own stuff more so than I am any kind of
gunsmith or have any real gunsmithing experience. Mostly I make parts
and I replace parts.
There is a lot to unpack in that question. Exactly how do you plan to
twist it all?
If I recall in the old CVA imported kit guns (I built a .36 Navy when
I was a kid) there are pins in the front of the frame that align with
holes in the barrel assembly. While not a wide stance it is a 3 point
alignment with the cylinder pin.
This one was built from a Navy Arms kit , around 1975 or 76 . The
barrel is threaded into the frame or I wouldn't be asking ... the barrel
is not quite tightened to the point that the vertical flats are parallel
to the vertical sides of the frame .
The timing is dead on . The bolt locks up just as the sear engagesTiming isn't just the bolt lockup. Its also the line up of the rifled
the hammer . It's never shaved lead .
I was mostly looking for ideas on holding it - probably by the barrel
- while I used some kind of "wrench" - likely to be a chunk of local
hickory properly shaped for the task - to tighten the frame/barrel a few degrees to bring the front blade to center over the barrel .
"Snag" wrote in message news:v5002h$285td$1@dont-email.me...
I was mostly looking for ideas on holding it - probably by the barrel
- while I used some kind of "wrench" - likely to be a chunk of local
hickory properly shaped for the task - to tighten the frame/barrel a few degrees to bring the front blade to center over the barrel .
Snag
---------------------------------
I'm not a gunsmith, but I looked into it and several other skills for
hints on building scientific instruments and lab experiments when I
managed a lab and model shop at Mitre. I think what you want is to buy
or make an "action wrench".
On 6/19/2024 6:19 PM, Snag wrote:
The Colt Navy replicas or just Navy is a half frame. There is no frame there for the barrel to thread into. Further most of those (even Confederate Navy models) were .36 caliber. Usually when people say .36
Navy they are referring to a model 1851 Navy.
On 6/19/2024 11:52 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message news:v5002h$285td$1@dont-email.me...
I was mostly looking for ideas on holding it - probably by the barrel >> - while I used some kind of "wrench" - likely to be a chunk of local
hickory properly shaped for the task - to tighten the frame/barrel a few
degrees to bring the front blade to center over the barrel .
Snag
---------------------------------
I'm not a gunsmith, but I looked into it and several other skills for
hints on building scientific instruments and lab experiments when I
managed a lab and model shop at Mitre. I think what you want is to buy
or make an "action wrench".
Just looking at it , The barrel being octagon I can put it in my mill vise with some padding . Using a wrench on the barrel is almost
certainly going to damage the finish . A nice sized chunk of hickory
with a couple of notches to engage the frame top and bottom straps might
be stout enough to rotate the frame - or maybe not .
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v54fn9$39fft$1@dont-email.me...
On 6/20/2024 5:07 AM, Snag wrote:
Just looking at it , The barrel being octagon I can put it in my
mill vise with some padding . Using a wrench on the barrel is almost
certainly going to damage the finish . A nice sized chunk of hickory
with a couple of notches to engage the frame top and bottom straps
might be stout enough to rotate the frame - or maybe not .
A mill vise will probably work, but I never have one mounted anywhere
other than a mill table. I like the bench vise (very heavy steel bench)
for this sort of work because I have it on the corner where I can work
all the way around a part.
Someday when I have a layout and assembly table that doesn't suffer from
HSD (Horizontal Surface Disease) I may mount both a bench vise and a
mill vise on the table for different things. A mill vise is better for things like a hydraulic tapping arm if I ever decide I need one.
Bob La Londe
----------------------------------------
Somewhere I saw a suggestion of a pipe vise bolted to a heavy timber for unscrewing things that required a lot of torque and custom machined jaw inserts.
On 6/21/2024 11:57 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v54fn9$39fft$1@dont-email.me...
On 6/20/2024 5:07 AM, Snag wrote:
Just looking at it , The barrel being octagon I can put it in my
mill vise with some padding . Using a wrench on the barrel is almost
certainly going to damage the finish . A nice sized chunk of hickory
with a couple of notches to engage the frame top and bottom straps
might be stout enough to rotate the frame - or maybe not .
A mill vise will probably work, but I never have one mounted anywhere
other than a mill table. I like the bench vise (very heavy steel bench)
for this sort of work because I have it on the corner where I can work
all the way around a part.
Someday when I have a layout and assembly table that doesn't suffer from
HSD (Horizontal Surface Disease) I may mount both a bench vise and a
mill vise on the table for different things. A mill vise is better for
things like a hydraulic tapping arm if I ever decide I need one.
Bob La Londe
----------------------------------------
Somewhere I saw a suggestion of a pipe vise bolted to a heavy timber
for unscrewing things that required a lot of torque and custom
machined jaw inserts.
A pipe vise is awesome for holding, but he wants to create zero cosmetic damage. Pipe jaws in a bench vise, or the chain style pipe vise will
both dig in. I'm not even sure I'd risk prismatic aluminum soft jaws
for the zero chance of cosmetic damage he is going for. I'd go straight
to the leather surfaced plywood vise jaw liners.
On 6/21/2024 2:03 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 6/21/2024 11:57 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:v54fn9$39fft$1@dont-email.me...
On 6/20/2024 5:07 AM, Snag wrote:
Just looking at it , The barrel being octagon I can put it in my
mill vise with some padding . Using a wrench on the barrel is almost
certainly going to damage the finish . A nice sized chunk of hickory
with a couple of notches to engage the frame top and bottom straps
might be stout enough to rotate the frame - or maybe not .
A mill vise will probably work, but I never have one mounted anywhere
other than a mill table. I like the bench vise (very heavy steel bench) >>> for this sort of work because I have it on the corner where I can work
all the way around a part.
Someday when I have a layout and assembly table that doesn't suffer from >>> HSD (Horizontal Surface Disease) I may mount both a bench vise and a
mill vise on the table for different things. A mill vise is better for >>> things like a hydraulic tapping arm if I ever decide I need one.
Bob La Londe
----------------------------------------
Somewhere I saw a suggestion of a pipe vise bolted to a heavy timber
for unscrewing things that required a lot of torque and custom
machined jaw inserts.
A pipe vise is awesome for holding, but he wants to create zero
cosmetic damage. Pipe jaws in a bench vise, or the chain style pipe
vise will both dig in. I'm not even sure I'd risk prismatic aluminum
soft jaws for the zero chance of cosmetic damage he is going for. I'd
go straight to the leather surfaced plywood vise jaw liners.
If I'm going with plywood/leather jaws I might as well use the
regular vise . It's bolted to a stool but easily held down with a foot bracing on a rung of the stool . Mill vise is currently under the mill
table . I've got an Arctic Cat 600 vertical twin cylinder block on the
mill . We're boring out the cylinders for new sleeves , he's making it
into a 660 ... and putting a belt drive blower on it . Gonna be wild .
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