Richard kind of got me wound up. Well, Jim is not totally blameless
either.
I've got a few electric winches, and a couple trailers suitable for
making use of them to haul vehicles and such. The thing is none of them
are really setup for it. The little tandem axle flat bed had a receiver tube welded on the tongue for a draw bar mounted winch, and I added a
similar type contraption to the bigger goose neck trailer. You might
recall I bragged about my well rounded master of no trades ability
hauling a couple full size 3/4 ton trucks on the goose neck last year.
Well both trailers have been used to haul vehicles and in most cases
they have been loaded with an 8oolb electric winch. The tractor just
drives right up the ramps on the goose neck, and my scissor lifts would
creep up the ramps on the low trailers after I made arched ramps for them.
I've decided to semi permanently mount the 8000lb winch on the low
trailer. I have more vehicles to move and the trailer will always have
more value with a 4 ton Warn on the front. I had a cheesy mount on it,
and it worked as I described above, but I decided to add a couple pieces
of C-channel inside the C-channel frame in the front for a nice clean
bolt through mount. The long term goal is to build a trailer tool box around it after I have it all figured out, convert the trailer to a 7
pin plug for battery charging, and when I need to use it I can snatch a couple deep cycles out of one of the boats. That way everything can be covered and locked up, and right there when I need to go. I'll probably even leave tie straps, chains, farm jack, and a few other things (like
the winch controller) in the box as well.
Well since you guys got me wound up I have spent most of the after noon taking things apart, salvaging c-channel from a scrapped boat trailer, cutting, grinding, and measuring just to get "prepared" to weld in one
piece of C-channel about 28 inches long. The other piece is already there.
As, I have been preparing my debacle I happened to look at the welds on
the piece of C-Channel already there. Okay. I'm not sure it qualifies
as a UBS weld other than they haven't broken. Ugly But Strong? No. Snot weld that miraculously didn't break would be more accurate.
The nice thing having the now mostly defunct draw bar mount for the
winch is it will make a great template for the bolt holes to mount the inch. Well, that and I can cut the front plate out and weld it to
trailer to mount the fair lead. Not sure where exactly yet. The front
of the bed frame would be easiest, but In front of the bed might be
better if a little more work.
Well, now I need to wander back outside and mark that piece of channel
for cutting to fit.
On 2/18/2025 5:09 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
Richard kind of got me wound up. Well, Jim is not totally blameless
either.
I've got a few electric winches, and a couple trailers suitable for
making use of them to haul vehicles and such. The thing is none of
them are really setup for it. The little tandem axle flat bed had a
receiver tube welded on the tongue for a draw bar mounted winch, and I
added a similar type contraption to the bigger goose neck trailer.
You might recall I bragged about my well rounded master of no trades
ability hauling a couple full size 3/4 ton trucks on the goose neck
last year. Well both trailers have been used to haul vehicles and in
most cases they have been loaded with an 8oolb electric winch. The
tractor just drives right up the ramps on the goose neck, and my
scissor lifts would creep up the ramps on the low trailers after I
made arched ramps for them.
I've decided to semi permanently mount the 8000lb winch on the low
trailer. I have more vehicles to move and the trailer will always have
more value with a 4 ton Warn on the front. I had a cheesy mount on
it, and it worked as I described above, but I decided to add a couple
pieces of C-channel inside the C-channel frame in the front for a nice
clean bolt through mount. The long term goal is to build a trailer
tool box around it after I have it all figured out, convert the
trailer to a 7 pin plug for battery charging, and when I need to use
it I can snatch a couple deep cycles out of one of the boats. That
way everything can be covered and locked up, and right there when I
need to go. I'll probably even leave tie straps, chains, farm jack,
and a few other things (like the winch controller) in the box as well.
Well since you guys got me wound up I have spent most of the after
noon taking things apart, salvaging c-channel from a scrapped boat
trailer, cutting, grinding, and measuring just to get "prepared" to
weld in one piece of C-channel about 28 inches long. The other piece
is already there.
As, I have been preparing my debacle I happened to look at the welds
on the piece of C-Channel already there. Okay. I'm not sure it
qualifies as a UBS weld other than they haven't broken. Ugly But
Strong? No. Snot weld that miraculously didn't break would be more
accurate.
The nice thing having the now mostly defunct draw bar mount for the
winch is it will make a great template for the bolt holes to mount the
inch. Well, that and I can cut the front plate out and weld it to
trailer to mount the fair lead. Not sure where exactly yet. The
front of the bed frame would be easiest, but In front of the bed might
be better if a little more work.
Well, now I need to wander back outside and mark that piece of channel
for cutting to fit.
I know I didn't mention the goose neck plans. I plan something similar
for it, but with a 12000 lb Badlands winch. I have a draw bar mount for
it that is rated for 12000lbs, but I think a solid mount on the trailer
will be much less headache doing things like dragging a shipping
container up on the trailer. Yeah, that's something I need to do too.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vp3bqn$1utuo$1@dont-email.me...
I must be getting old, or more likely rode hard and put up wet one to
many times. Used to be I wouldn't quit until the job was done, but
not today. I'm the one that's done.
You're lucky you can do anything outdoors. I have plans and incomplete projects waiting too, but snow > rain > deep freeze have locked
everything outside into a glacier here. I barely cleared the car and
shoveled a path to the road in the brief gap between the rain and
freeze, now it's a struggle even to bring in firewood.
TV weather: "It's like 2 below with the wind chill."
This isn't the best time of the year to import wind from Canada, please
wait for July and August.
On 2/19/2025 5:38 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vp3bqn$1utuo$1@dont-email.me...
I must be getting old, or more likely rode hard and put up wet one to
many times. Used to be I wouldn't quit until the job was done, but
not today. I'm the one that's done.
You're lucky you can do anything outdoors. I have plans and incomplete
projects waiting too, but snow > rain > deep freeze have locked
everything outside into a glacier here. I barely cleared the car and
shoveled a path to the road in the brief gap between the rain and
freeze, now it's a struggle even to bring in firewood.
TV weather: "It's like 2 below with the wind chill."
This isn't the best time of the year to import wind from Canada,
please wait for July and August.
I spent a grand total of one winter in cold and snow. That was enough
for me. I've heard people say you can dress for cold, but you can't
dress for heat.
Well, that's kind true, but...
You can dress for cold, but it can also restrict your movement. You can walk down the driveway to check the mail if you have plowed the snow out
of the way first, but that implies you can dress for cold, but not snow.
 In real cold you lose dexterity. Either from gloves, the cold, or
frost bite. If there is ice, you can dress for cold by wearing cleats. Yeah, I can walk on ice with ordinary shoes too, but it takes more care,
and may limit other things I can do.
Growing up I had summer jobs "chopping cotton," and working in the grape harvest. I wore a loose long sleeve shirt, jeans, and a hat. Under the shade of the packing shed I could get away with lighter gear, but in the
sun those who did now have a higher risk of skin cancer. Some
overheated and dropped. On a hot summer day I have also lose dexterity
when work. I either wear gloves or tools and materials laying out in
the sun will burn my hands. You can also get conditioned (to some
extent) for the heat, and learn good practices. Drink water before you
get thirsty. When you actually get thirsty and push through you are dehydrated and pushing through can make you dangerously dehydrated. It
may not be cool in the shade, but a little shade and some water for a
short break is all you need if you are conditioned to tolerate the heat.
 To get conditioned you have to work in it.
In the end I can work more effectively on a 110F degree day in SW
Arizona more effectively than I can on a 5F day in Northern Ohio.
However those aren't extremes. On a 115-120+ day in Arizona (yes we
have them fairly often) You really need to limit your exposure, and be
aware of conditions that are even worse than the ambient temperature.
Pulling wire in an attic is so dangerous I used to limit myself to no
more than 5-10 minutes at a time up the ladder. Working in a hot black asphalt parking lot is nearly as dangerous. I say nearly, because you
can always jump in your truck to get out of the sun for a few minutes.
You can't get out of the heat in an attic except by getting out of the
attic.
I've never had to work in 20F below, but as restricted as I was a 5F
above I imagine its just as limiting as work in a 120F+ degrees in the desert.
I brag or show off my winter time weather, but you won't hear much
except complaining from me if I have to work outside in July and August.
As to conditioning... kids are stupid. My friends and I used to play outside in the desert all summer long. Many a time I imagine somebody's garden hose saved us from closer to dangerous dehydration than we knew.
We also got conditioned to the heat. Not impervious, but conditioned to tolerate it and knowledgeable about how to manage it. Riding my
motorcycle back across the Sonoran desert to get home there was more
than once I pulled off at any sign of farming to dunk my shirt and my
helmet in a canal to cool off. It dries out quick, but it adds 30 miles
to your range. Nearly as much as a drink of cool (not cold) water and a
few minutes break in the shade.
The thing I never learned to manage was hot and humid. If there is a
way I can't fathom it. In Northern Ohio I saw what I called 90/90
plenty of days in the summer. Over 90 degrees and over 90% humidity.
That was just miserable. When I saw temps approaching
grandmother said read the obits in the next few days and you will see
many older people without air conditioning who succumbed in their homes.
 I could work for a little while, but because I had no natural cooling
at those high humidities I had to take twice the breaks to recover. I
can't imagine living and working in the old south where they see 110F+
and 90-99% humidity routinely.
See, you got me all wound up again Jim. I want to get outside and get
more work done before summer.
...
The thing I never learned to manage was hot and humid. If there is a
way I can't fathom it. In Northern Ohio I saw what I called 90/90
plenty of days in the summer. Over 90 degrees and over 90%
humidity. That was just miserable. ...
...
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vp5b4q$2d5v7$1@dont-email.me...
I've heard people say you can dress for cold, but you can't dress for
heat. Well, that's kind true, but...
The thing I never learned to manage was hot and humid.
-------------------------------
I've found soft and flexible warm clothing, mostly at Walmart. I'm
wearing a sweat top that doubles for pajamas for its hood, a quilted
shirt and a pile lined hoodie, plus lined pants. In this I'm comfortable
at 60F napping and 55F moving around a little. My mother's olde New
England side of the family tolerated cold, she'd leave the thermostat at
60F until my father got up. My sister doesn't mind it much either. I
think we have a little Viking ancestry from the Norman Conquest.
Despite our northerly latitude NH sometimes gets Gulf of Amexica heat
and humidity, daytime highs pushing 100F and 75+ lows at night, the dew point. Florida hurricanes often reach us and Hurricane Katrina passed
over us as a rain storm. I can eventually get used to it, even Atlanta
summer climate when visiting my father's family. In the Air Corps my
father was a company commander, my mother's brother his top sergeant.
I was downtown in Concord NH the day the bank thermometer showed 104F,
our record.
CORRECTION: Approaching 100, not 110. Never saw temps over a 100 in
Ohio.
my
grandmother said read the obits in the next few days and you will see
many older people without air conditioning who succumbed in their homes.
I could work for a little while, but because I had no natural cooling
at those high humidities I had to take twice the breaks to recover. I
can't imagine living and working in the old south where they see 110F+
and 90-99% humidity routinely.
See, you got me all wound up again Jim. I want to get outside and get
more work done before summer.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
On 2/19/2025 5:38 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vp3bqn$1utuo$1@dont-email.me...
I must be getting old, or more likely rode hard and put up wet one to
many times. Used to be I wouldn't quit until the job was done, but
not today. I'm the one that's done.
You're lucky you can do anything outdoors. I have plans and incomplete
projects waiting too, but snow > rain > deep freeze have locked
everything outside into a glacier here. I barely cleared the car and
shoveled a path to the road in the brief gap between the rain and
freeze, now it's a struggle even to bring in firewood.
TV weather: "It's like 2 below with the wind chill."
This isn't the best time of the year to import wind from Canada,
please wait for July and August.
I spent a grand total of one winter in cold and snow. That was enough
for me. I've heard people say you can dress for cold, but you can't
dress for heat.
Well, that's kind true, but...
See, you got me all wound up again Jim. I want to get outside and get
more work done before summer.
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> writes:
...
The thing I never learned to manage was hot and humid. If there is a
way I can't fathom it. In Northern Ohio I saw what I called 90/90
plenty of days in the summer. Over 90 degrees and over 90%
humidity. That was just miserable. ...
...
I experienced that - what you call "90/90".
I worked in a research foundry.
Thing was that onlookers were unlikely to think of - surely when the temperature goes up, with the same unchanged amount of water (moisture)
in the air, the relative humidity must go down(?). So sweating works. Problem was "home" - an apartment right under the asphalt'ed roof...
Having a friend of the female persuasion around was not for the heterosexually faint-hearted... :-)
On 2/19/2025 4:24 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vp5b4q$2d5v7$1@dont-email.me...
I've heard people say you can dress for cold, but you can't dress for
heat. Well, that's kind true, but...
The thing I never learned to manage was hot and humid.
-------------------------------
I've found soft and flexible warm clothing, mostly at Walmart. I'm
wearing a sweat top that doubles for pajamas for its hood, a quilted
shirt and a pile lined hoodie, plus lined pants. In this I'm
comfortable at 60F napping and 55F moving around a little. My mother's
olde New England side of the family tolerated cold, she'd leave the
thermostat at 60F until my father got up. My sister doesn't mind it
much either. I think we have a little Viking ancestry from the Norman
Conquest.
Despite our northerly latitude NH sometimes gets Gulf of Amexica heat
and humidity, daytime highs pushing 100F and 75+ lows at night, the
dew point. Florida hurricanes often reach us and Hurricane Katrina
passed over us as a rain storm. I can eventually get used to it, even
Atlanta summer climate when visiting my father's family. In the Air
Corps my father was a company commander, my mother's brother his top
sergeant.
I was downtown in Concord NH the day the bank thermometer showed 104F,
our record.
Okay, now we are all now officially old. We're sitting around talking
about the weather.
On 2/19/2025 3:21 PM, Richard Smith wrote:
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> writes:
...I experienced that - what you call "90/90".
The thing I never learned to manage was hot and humid. If there is a
way I can't fathom it. In Northern Ohio I saw what I called 90/90
plenty of days in the summer. Over 90 degrees and over 90%
humidity. That was just miserable. ...
...
I worked in a research foundry.
Thing was that onlookers were unlikely to think of - surely when the
temperature goes up, with the same unchanged amount of water (moisture)
in the air, the relative humidity must go down(?). So sweating works.
Problem was "home" - an apartment right under the asphalt'ed roof...
Having a friend of the female persuasion around was not for the
heterosexually faint-hearted... :-)
When you said "Hey baby , wanna get sweaty?" you MEANT it ! There's
somethin' to be said about slippin' an' slidin' ...
On 2/19/2025 6:18 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 2/19/2025 4:24 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vp5b4q$2d5v7$1@dont-email.me...
I've heard people say you can dress for cold, but you can't dress
for heat. Well, that's kind true, but...
The thing I never learned to manage was hot and humid.
-------------------------------
I've found soft and flexible warm clothing, mostly at Walmart. I'm
wearing a sweat top that doubles for pajamas for its hood, a quilted
shirt and a pile lined hoodie, plus lined pants. In this I'm
comfortable at 60F napping and 55F moving around a little. My
mother's olde New England side of the family tolerated cold, she'd
leave the thermostat at 60F until my father got up. My sister doesn't
mind it much either. I think we have a little Viking ancestry from
the Norman Conquest.
Despite our northerly latitude NH sometimes gets Gulf of Amexica heat
and humidity, daytime highs pushing 100F and 75+ lows at night, the
dew point. Florida hurricanes often reach us and Hurricane Katrina
passed over us as a rain storm. I can eventually get used to it, even
Atlanta summer climate when visiting my father's family. In the Air
Corps my father was a company commander, my mother's brother his top
sergeant.
I was downtown in Concord NH the day the bank thermometer showed
104F, our record.
Okay, now we are all now officially old. We're sitting around talking
about the weather.
 Oh Shit , my last post ... you're right !
 OK , got any good loads for a .222 Rem using 50/52/55 gr bullets ? A
wide selection of powders is available .
I get a little frustrated with all the different rounds/calibers/loads
out there these days...
On 2/19/2025 8:29 PM, Snag wrote:
On 2/19/2025 6:18 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 2/19/2025 4:24 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vp5b4q$2d5v7$1@dont-email.me... >>>>> I've heard people say you can dress for cold, but you can't dress
for heat. Well, that's kind true, but...
The thing I never learned to manage was hot and humid.
-------------------------------
I've found soft and flexible warm clothing, mostly at Walmart. I'm
wearing a sweat top that doubles for pajamas for its hood, a quilted
shirt and a pile lined hoodie, plus lined pants. In this I'm
comfortable at 60F napping and 55F moving around a little. My
mother's olde New England side of the family tolerated cold, she'd
leave the thermostat at 60F until my father got up. My sister
doesn't mind it much either. I think we have a little Viking
ancestry from the Norman Conquest.
Despite our northerly latitude NH sometimes gets Gulf of Amexica
heat and humidity, daytime highs pushing 100F and 75+ lows at night,
the dew point. Florida hurricanes often reach us and Hurricane
Katrina passed over us as a rain storm. I can eventually get used to
it, even Atlanta summer climate when visiting my father's family. In
the Air Corps my father was a company commander, my mother's brother
his top sergeant.
I was downtown in Concord NH the day the bank thermometer showed
104F, our record.
Okay, now we are all now officially old. We're sitting around
talking about the weather.
  Oh Shit , my last post ... you're right !
  OK , got any good loads for a .222 Rem using 50/52/55 gr bullets ?
A wide selection of powders is available .
For varmint I use .223 50gr hollow points to reach out there or .22WMR
out to about 125. All factory loads. I really like the 50gr American Eagle HP. My target/varmint 223 barrel drops them so close together if
I told you you'd think I was exaggerating. Not sure you can still get
those American Eagle's, but I have a couple left.
I get a little frustrated with all the different rounds/calibers/loads
out there these days. There isn't anything in North America you can't
drop with the 119 year old 30-06 (even older if you remember its derived
from 30-03). Light bullet for deer or antelope way out there, or
heavier bullet for elk or brown bear. Maybe a bit much for varmint, but Remington did load a .22 sabot round for it some decades back. I think
it was called the accelerator.
Mostly I just hunt birds. Shotgun or pellet gun depending on the species.
On Fri, 21 Feb 2025 09:14:00 -0500
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
<snip>
The yield strength of hard drawn/stamped brass sets current ammo pressure
limits. It's similar to mild steel but more brittle, and is of course
rustproof which matters to the military. Some bolt actions have been proofed >> to handle 120,000 PSI or more if the cases could.
That new Federal steel case is designed for 80,000 PSI as the standard
load. The material is suppose to be able to expand slightly to help
keep the case locked in the chamber and not blow back against the bolt
as hard. Can be reloaded too but didn't see any detail on that yet. Not
that I went looking for it either.
Speculation was that it will be used to boost older rounds pressure too
for newer guns that could probably handle the higher pressure...
The yield strength of hard drawn/stamped brass sets current ammo pressure >limits. It's similar to mild steel but more brittle, and is of course >rustproof which matters to the military. Some bolt actions have been proofed >to handle 120,000 PSI or more if the cases could.
"Leon Fisk"Â wrote in message news:vp8001$2ucs0$1@dont-email.me...
Thought this "Federal 7mm Backcountry" was interesting. Has been in the recent issues of a couple magazines. Mostly interested in what the case
and powder could do for current ammo, like the .223 and such🤔
-----------------------------------
Standard rifle ammo is little different from what Mauser introduced
around 1890.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/7.65%C3%9753mm_Mauser
Magnums are only slightly newer. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.375_H%26H_Magnum
Hatcher's Notebook explains the technology in considerable detail. https://ia601302.us.archive.org/3/items/Hatchers_Notebook/ Hatchers_Notebook_text.pdf
The text stamped on the case head actually improves the strength through
cold working.
The yield strength of hard drawn/stamped brass sets current ammo
pressure limits. It's similar to mild steel but more brittle, and is of course rustproof which matters to the military. Some bolt actions have
been proofed to handle 120,000 PSI or more if the cases could. Stronger
cases can be turned on a lathe for testing but would be unaffordable in production. Forming the metal cases more or less paced firearm
improvement since they were introduced in 1808. Smokeless powder that
didn't foul the barrel almost immediately permitted modern action and ammunition design which was substantially perfected before WW1.
If it erodes rifling faster it may not become popular, as with the .264 Win >Mag.
"Leon Fisk"Â wrote in message news:vpa2g8$3e2fq$1@dont-email.me...
That new Federal steel case is designed for 80,000 PSI as the standard
load. The material is suppose to be able to expand slightly to help
keep the case locked in the chamber and not blow back against the bolt
as hard. Can be reloaded too but didn't see any detail on that yet. Not
that I went looking for it either.
Speculation was that it will be used to boost older rounds pressure too
for newer guns that could probably handle the higher pressure...
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI
----------------------------------
If it erodes rifling faster it may not become popular, as with the .264
Win Mag. Battleship gun bores eroded enough that the ballistic computer computation included compensation for the number of rounds fired, and
the rifling was in replaceable liners. "All Quiet on the Western Front" states that German artillery barrels were so worn towards the end that
the slowest shells would fall short into the German lines. I've read
that double base powder burns hotter and causes faster wear than single
base.
https://www.themeateater.com/hunt/firearm-hunting/caliber-battle-6-5- creedmoor-vs-264-win-mag
https://www.reddit.com/r/WarshipPorn/comments/1eou9sg/ sailors_aboard_uss_new_jersey_bb62_work_to_trim/
~~~~
What is that? Looks like an animal was run over repeatedly by a D9 Cat.
Oh, its the Elk Jim shot with his brand new Mach 6 Ruger American rifle shooting 50 caliber 2000 grain pointed soft point boat tails at Mach 6.4.
Airgun battleship:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Vesuvius_(1888)
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vpafle$3gbk9$1@dont-email.me...
Oh, its the Elk Jim shot with his brand new Mach 6 Ruger American rifle shooting 50 caliber 2000 grain pointed soft point boat tails at Mach 6.4.
Bob La Londe
----------------------------------
Latest and greatest?? Me?? More likely with the 45-70 Sharps at Mach 0.9.
There is elk and buffalo hunting here:
https://www.grandlakehunt.com/
I have to consider the limited capacity of my portable freezer. https://carfridge.alpicool.com/collections/alpicool-t-series-car- fridges/products/alpicool-t60
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vpb6or$3kr8r$1@dont-email.me...
Getting into pneumatics, with natural nitrogen oxygen "air" there is a velocity limitation, but it might be faster than you might think.
----------------------------------
I understand Mach 1 being a "choked" flow speed limit since it's the temperature but not pressure dependent average speed of the individual
air molecules. Lighter molecules like Helium move faster to have the
same kinetic energy at the same temperature, heavy CO2 moves slower.
Going beyond with DeLaval nozzles etc is beyond my slim knowledge of
fluid dynamics (rocket science).
I think the primary reason Mach 1 is a choke point is that the
projectile experiences excessive turbulence and reduced stability as it >passes through the sound barrier...
On Mon, 24 Feb 2025 09:29:15 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
<snip>
I think the primary reason Mach 1 is a choke point is that the
projectile experiences excessive turbulence and reduced stability as it
passes through the sound barrier...
Maybe old news you've already heard...
Hornady did some research on their tips, found that a flat meplat works better for long range.
===
The approach decreases dispersion at long range by optimizing bullet
tip shape to provide excellent overall drag and unrivaled
bullet-to-bullet consistency. Specifically, the meplat must be flat—not pointed—and the diameter of the flat meplat is a specific ratio to the bullet diameter. The new technology decreases the drag variation from
shot to shot, resulting in less dispersion at long range...
===
https://www.americanrifleman.org/content/hornady-introduces-patented-drag-variability-reduction-technology/
On Mon, 24 Feb 2025 09:29:15 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
<snip>
I think the primary reason Mach 1 is a choke point is that the
projectile experiences excessive turbulence and reduced stability as it
passes through the sound barrier...
Maybe old news you've already heard...
Hornady did some research on their tips, found that a flat meplat works better for long range.
===
The approach decreases dispersion at long range by optimizing bullet
tip shape to provide excellent overall drag and unrivaled
bullet-to-bullet consistency. Specifically, the meplat must be flat—not pointed—and the diameter of the flat meplat is a specific ratio to the bullet diameter. The new technology decreases the drag variation from
shot to shot, resulting in less dispersion at long range...
===
https://www.americanrifleman.org/content/hornady-introduces-patented-drag-variability-reduction-technology/
Richard kind of got me wound up. Well, Jim is not totally blameless
either.
I've got a few electric winches, and a couple trailers suitable for
making use of them to haul vehicles and such. The thing is none of them
are really setup for it. The little tandem axle flat bed had a receiver tube welded on the tongue for a draw bar mounted winch, and I added a
similar type contraption to the bigger goose neck trailer. You might
recall I bragged about my well rounded master of no trades ability
hauling a couple full size 3/4 ton trucks on the goose neck last year.
Well both trailers have been used to haul vehicles and in most cases
they have been loaded with an 8oolb electric winch. The tractor just
drives right up the ramps on the goose neck, and my scissor lifts would
creep up the ramps on the low trailers after I made arched ramps for them.
I've decided to semi permanently mount the 8000lb winch on the low
trailer. I have more vehicles to move and the trailer will always have
more value with a 4 ton Warn on the front. I had a cheesy mount on it,
and it worked as I described above, but I decided to add a couple pieces
of C-channel inside the C-channel frame in the front for a nice clean
bolt through mount. The long term goal is to build a trailer tool box around it after I have it all figured out, convert the trailer to a 7
pin plug for battery charging, and when I need to use it I can snatch a couple deep cycles out of one of the boats. That way everything can be covered and locked up, and right there when I need to go. I'll probably even leave tie straps, chains, farm jack, and a few other things (like
the winch controller) in the box as well.
Well since you guys got me wound up I have spent most of the after noon taking things apart, salvaging c-channel from a scrapped boat trailer, cutting, grinding, and measuring just to get "prepared" to weld in one
piece of C-channel about 28 inches long. The other piece is already there.
As, I have been preparing my debacle I happened to look at the welds on
the piece of C-Channel already there. Okay. I'm not sure it qualifies
as a UBS weld other than they haven't broken. Ugly But Strong? No. Snot weld that miraculously didn't break would be more accurate.
The nice thing having the now mostly defunct draw bar mount for the
winch is it will make a great template for the bolt holes to mount the inch. Well, that and I can cut the front plate out and weld it to
trailer to mount the fair lead. Not sure where exactly yet. The front
of the bed frame would be easiest, but In front of the bed might be
better if a little more work.
Well, now I need to wander back outside and mark that piece of channel
for cutting to fit.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vpm1dm$29i0n$1@dont-email.me...
...
Pain in the patootie, ain't got the right chit, and it all works out.
Still looking for a battery box. I don't plan to leave a battery on the trailer, but I do plan to wire it up so when I'm pulling the trailer the truck will charge the battery just like it does the break away battery
on the goose neck or the fifth wheel. I reckon I'm just going to have
to waste a day making a box. Can't find anything I like.
Bob La Londe
----------------------------------
A plan that's worked for me is the battery in a Noco (or other) plastic
case with the strap rearranged as a centered handle. The strap tiedown brackets are bolted or Pop-riveted to the box below lid level so the
battery won't tip. The short cables go to a large Anderson connector
rated for the load current, so I can use the winch on either the truck
or the tractor and store the battery indoors, protected from accidental shorting in the Noco.
https://www.grainger.com/category/fleet-vehicle-maintenance/vehicle- electrical-battery-power-maintenance/vehicle-battery-power-charging/ battery-connections/battery-power-connectors?
Mine are mostly salvaged second-hand. The pins remove by depressing the retaining clip with a flat-blade screwdriver. There's only one insulated bidirectional type, not exposed male and protected female pins, which
suits them for battery circuits where either side can be hot. The 2 pin
ones are keyed by color for different voltages but the keying is easily milled out.
If the Noco box is left exposed instead of in a locked metal box it
needs a drain hole for rain which comes in through the lid vents.
Walmart had Noco battery boxes at a good price up to Group 24, I had to
spend more for Group 31s elsewhere.
LiFePO4 batteries have dropped in price enough to be tempting but they
may not have the current rating for winches or starting engines. Their protection circuits cut out if overloaded.
jsw
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vpni5m$2l4al$1@dont-email.me...
* I've found the Walmart deep cycles have a better life to price ratio
than more expensive batteries.
-------------------------------
Thanks. The Duracell / East Penn marine batteries I used to depend on
for >10 year life don't last half that now.
"Clare Snyder"Â wrote in message news:va1vrj5pgmb3au7gk9tb58e42o73a1c4kj@4ax.com...
The Crown GC2H 115AH 6 volt golf cart batteries I used in the modified
Fiat "ElectraMobile" did pretty good until some J@ck@$$ disconnected
the maintainer over a VERY COLD winter and they froze to death. Dor
heavy use I like 2 bib sixes in series rather than 2 twelves
paralleled.
--------------------------
I've seen several off-gridders recommend 6V instead of 12V, though none explained why. Price and availability sent me to 12V.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vpo921$2oviq$1@dont-email.me...
There used to be a huge aftermarket in reduced capacity used 6V
batteries. Good AH per dollar spent for the penny pinchers. New ones
were crazy expensive though. My electric scissors lifts both used 4
large 6V deep cycles. The second time I replaced a set I said screw
this, and dropped a pair of 12V deep cycles in their place. I had about half the run time, but 1/4 the price. If I needed more run time I could have just tied in another bank in parallel and still been half the cost
of 4 big sixes.
Bob La Londe
-------------------------------------
The large UPS aftermarket I sometimes score in seems to be all 12V. My
APCs take 24V so I need relatively matched pairs for them. These help
measure and monitor their condition: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09P661829/ref=twister_B09697FNMS? _encoding=UTF8&th=1
You have to guess and set the Ah capacity when fully charged, it
measures the actual Ah capacity with a full discharge. On recharge when
it reaches the set capacity it stops counting, which is appropriate for
a lead-acid on float or trickle that still accepts (and wastes) a small current when fully charged. Watt-hours isn't too useful because wire IR
drop affects the voltage.
Bestek sells nice, fairly inexpensive true sine inverters in 300W and 500W. https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-300Watt-Power-Inverter-Adapter/dp/ B07KQ4Q2L5/ref=asc_df_B07KQ4Q2L5?
On 2/26/2025 9:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vpo921$2oviq$1@dont-email.me...
There used to be a huge aftermarket in reduced capacity used 6V
batteries. Good AH per dollar spent for the penny pinchers. New ones
were crazy expensive though. My electric scissors lifts both used 4
large 6V deep cycles. The second time I replaced a set I said screw
this, and dropped a pair of 12V deep cycles in their place. I had about
half the run time, but 1/4 the price. If I needed more run time I could
have just tied in another bank in parallel and still been half the cost
of 4 big sixes.
Bob La Londe
-------------------------------------
The large UPS aftermarket I sometimes score in seems to be all 12V. My
APCs take 24V so I need relatively matched pairs for them. These help
measure and monitor their condition:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09P661829/ref=twister_B09697FNMS?
_encoding=UTF8&th=1
You have to guess and set the Ah capacity when fully charged, it
measures the actual Ah capacity with a full discharge. On recharge
when it reaches the set capacity it stops counting, which is
appropriate for a lead-acid on float or trickle that still accepts
(and wastes) a small current when fully charged. Watt-hours isn't too
useful because wire IR drop affects the voltage.
Bestek sells nice, fairly inexpensive true sine inverters in 300W and
500W.
https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-300Watt-Power-Inverter-Adapter/dp/
B07KQ4Q2L5/ref=asc_df_B07KQ4Q2L5?
In my past life as a contractor I fixed UPS units all the time. They
all had 12V 7AH gel cells. There might have been a few big units with
10AH batteries, but 99% of them used the same old 12V 7AH gel battery.
Since I used 12V 7AH batteries in every burglar alarm, fire alarm, and cellular or radio back up communicator I usually had two cases on the shelf. Never less than one case and if I got down to one I already had
more on the way.
Generally my goal with those batteries (whatever the application) was to
have to do nothing with my feet up on my desk and receive the service contract checks in the mail. I bought the best batteries I could find.
I'm sure all the prices have changed, but my cost back in the day for an inexpensive 12/7 was around $7-9 and the cost for what I decided
anecdotally was the best was about $15. If I could go 3-5 years (unless contracted other wise) instead of 1-3 I was money ahead to use the
better batteries. I installed thousands of 12/7 batteries, and probably hundreds of 12/4s where 12/7s wouldn't fit.
It used to be Yuasa made the best batteries, but they went through some shakeups and name change and might not be exactly the same company
anymore. The last time I bought some they held up, so they may still be
the best 12/7 gel battery available.
I need to order some again soon. One of my access control expansion
modules is sending me a low battery signal.
On 2/26/2025 9:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vpo921$2oviq$1@dont-email.me...
There used to be a huge aftermarket in reduced capacity used 6V
batteries. Good AH per dollar spent for the penny pinchers. New ones
were crazy expensive though. My electric scissors lifts both used 4
large 6V deep cycles. The second time I replaced a set I said screw
this, and dropped a pair of 12V deep cycles in their place. I had about
half the run time, but 1/4 the price. If I needed more run time I could
have just tied in another bank in parallel and still been half the cost
of 4 big sixes.
Bob La Londe
-------------------------------------
The large UPS aftermarket I sometimes score in seems to be all 12V. My
APCs take 24V so I need relatively matched pairs for them. These help
measure and monitor their condition:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09P661829/ref=twister_B09697FNMS?
_encoding=UTF8&th=1
You have to guess and set the Ah capacity when fully charged, it
measures the actual Ah capacity with a full discharge. On recharge
when it reaches the set capacity it stops counting, which is
appropriate for a lead-acid on float or trickle that still accepts
(and wastes) a small current when fully charged. Watt-hours isn't too
useful because wire IR drop affects the voltage.
Bestek sells nice, fairly inexpensive true sine inverters in 300W and
500W.
https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-300Watt-Power-Inverter-Adapter/dp/
B07KQ4Q2L5/ref=asc_df_B07KQ4Q2L5?
In my past life as a contractor I fixed UPS units all the time. They
all had 12V 7AH gel cells. There might have been a few big units with
10AH batteries, but 99% of them used the same old 12V 7AH gel battery.
Since I used 12V 7AH batteries in every burglar alarm, fire alarm, and cellular or radio back up communicator I usually had two cases on the shelf. Never less than one case and if I got down to one I already had
more on the way.
Generally my goal with those batteries (whatever the application) was to
have to do nothing with my feet up on my desk and receive the service contract checks in the mail. I bought the best batteries I could find.
I'm sure all the prices have changed, but my cost back in the day for an inexpensive 12/7 was around $7-9 and the cost for what I decided
anecdotally was the best was about $15. If I could go 3-5 years (unless contracted other wise) instead of 1-3 I was money ahead to use the
better batteries. I installed thousands of 12/7 batteries, and probably hundreds of 12/4s where 12/7s wouldn't fit.
It used to be Yuasa made the best batteries, but they went through some shakeups and name change and might not be exactly the same company
anymore. The last time I bought some they held up, so they may still be
the best 12/7 gel battery available.
I need to order some again soon. One of my access control expansion
modules is sending me a low battery signal.
On 2/27/2025 10:41 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 2/26/2025 9:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vpo921$2oviq$1@dont-email.me...
There used to be a huge aftermarket in reduced capacity used 6V
batteries. Good AH per dollar spent for the penny pinchers. New ones
were crazy expensive though. My electric scissors lifts both used 4
large 6V deep cycles. The second time I replaced a set I said screw
this, and dropped a pair of 12V deep cycles in their place. I had about >>> half the run time, but 1/4 the price. If I needed more run time I could >>> have just tied in another bank in parallel and still been half the cost
of 4 big sixes.
Bob La Londe
-------------------------------------
The large UPS aftermarket I sometimes score in seems to be all 12V.
My APCs take 24V so I need relatively matched pairs for them. These
help measure and monitor their condition:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09P661829/ref=twister_B09697FNMS?
_encoding=UTF8&th=1
You have to guess and set the Ah capacity when fully charged, it
measures the actual Ah capacity with a full discharge. On recharge
when it reaches the set capacity it stops counting, which is
appropriate for a lead-acid on float or trickle that still accepts
(and wastes) a small current when fully charged. Watt-hours isn't too
useful because wire IR drop affects the voltage.
Bestek sells nice, fairly inexpensive true sine inverters in 300W and
500W.
https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-300Watt-Power-Inverter-Adapter/dp/
B07KQ4Q2L5/ref=asc_df_B07KQ4Q2L5?
In my past life as a contractor I fixed UPS units all the time. They
all had 12V 7AH gel cells. There might have been a few big units with
10AH batteries, but 99% of them used the same old 12V 7AH gel battery.
Since I used 12V 7AH batteries in every burglar alarm, fire alarm, and
cellular or radio back up communicator I usually had two cases on the
shelf. Never less than one case and if I got down to one I already
had more on the way.
Generally my goal with those batteries (whatever the application) was
to have to do nothing with my feet up on my desk and receive the
service contract checks in the mail. I bought the best batteries I
could find. I'm sure all the prices have changed, but my cost back in
the day for an inexpensive 12/7 was around $7-9 and the cost for what
I decided anecdotally was the best was about $15. If I could go 3-5
years (unless contracted other wise) instead of 1-3 I was money ahead
to use the better batteries. I installed thousands of 12/7 batteries,
and probably hundreds of 12/4s where 12/7s wouldn't fit.
It used to be Yuasa made the best batteries, but they went through
some shakeups and name change and might not be exactly the same
company anymore. The last time I bought some they held up, so they
may still be the best 12/7 gel battery available.
I need to order some again soon. One of my access control expansion
modules is sending me a low battery signal.
 When the battery in my free UPS went TU I had a 12/9 battery I had
bought online intended for use with my electric pivoting jib crane (for firewood handling) that I decided was not sufficient for it's intended purpose . But with a slight terminal modification it slipped right into
that UPS like it was made for it . I still hate that beep , but it does
tell me when the power goes out .
On 2/27/2025 1:15 PM, Snag wrote:
On 2/27/2025 10:41 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 2/26/2025 9:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:vpo921$2oviq$1@dont-email.me... >>>>
There used to be a huge aftermarket in reduced capacity used 6V
batteries. Good AH per dollar spent for the penny pinchers. New ones >>>> were crazy expensive though. My electric scissors lifts both used 4
large 6V deep cycles. The second time I replaced a set I said screw
this, and dropped a pair of 12V deep cycles in their place. I had
about
half the run time, but 1/4 the price. If I needed more run time I
could
have just tied in another bank in parallel and still been half the cost >>>> of 4 big sixes.
Bob La Londe
-------------------------------------
The large UPS aftermarket I sometimes score in seems to be all 12V.
My APCs take 24V so I need relatively matched pairs for them. These
help measure and monitor their condition:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09P661829/ref=twister_B09697FNMS?
_encoding=UTF8&th=1
You have to guess and set the Ah capacity when fully charged, it
measures the actual Ah capacity with a full discharge. On recharge
when it reaches the set capacity it stops counting, which is
appropriate for a lead-acid on float or trickle that still accepts
(and wastes) a small current when fully charged. Watt-hours isn't
too useful because wire IR drop affects the voltage.
Bestek sells nice, fairly inexpensive true sine inverters in 300W
and 500W.
https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-300Watt-Power-Inverter-Adapter/dp/
B07KQ4Q2L5/ref=asc_df_B07KQ4Q2L5?
In my past life as a contractor I fixed UPS units all the time. They
all had 12V 7AH gel cells. There might have been a few big units
with 10AH batteries, but 99% of them used the same old 12V 7AH gel
battery. Since I used 12V 7AH batteries in every burglar alarm, fire
alarm, and cellular or radio back up communicator I usually had two
cases on the shelf. Never less than one case and if I got down to
one I already had more on the way.
Generally my goal with those batteries (whatever the application) was
to have to do nothing with my feet up on my desk and receive the
service contract checks in the mail. I bought the best batteries I
could find. I'm sure all the prices have changed, but my cost back in
the day for an inexpensive 12/7 was around $7-9 and the cost for what
I decided anecdotally was the best was about $15. If I could go 3-5
years (unless contracted other wise) instead of 1-3 I was money ahead
to use the better batteries. I installed thousands of 12/7 batteries,
and probably hundreds of 12/4s where 12/7s wouldn't fit.
It used to be Yuasa made the best batteries, but they went through
some shakeups and name change and might not be exactly the same
company anymore. The last time I bought some they held up, so they
may still be the best 12/7 gel battery available.
I need to order some again soon. One of my access control expansion
modules is sending me a low battery signal.
  When the battery in my free UPS went TU I had a 12/9 battery I had
bought online intended for use with my electric pivoting jib crane
(for firewood handling) that I decided was not sufficient for it's
intended purpose . But with a slight terminal modification it slipped
right into that UPS like it was made for it . I still hate that beep ,
but it does tell me when the power goes out .
Is it by any chance the same physical size as the 12/7 gel batteries? I found a lot of companies marketing their batteries as higher AH, but
were the same physical size. In practice the Yuasa batteries cost more
and lasted longer.
On 2/26/2025 10:52 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:vpni5m$2l4al$1@dont-email.me...
* I've found the Walmart deep cycles have a better life to price ratio
than more expensive batteries.
-------------------------------
Thanks. The Duracell / East Penn marine batteries I used to depend on
for >10 year life don't last half that now.
I'm not saying the WalMart batteries are better. I just believe theyThe Crown GC2H 115AH 6 volt golf cart batteries I used in the modified
cost less per service hour.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
On 2/27/2025 1:15 PM, Snag wrote:
On 2/27/2025 10:41 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 2/26/2025 9:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:vpo921$2oviq$1@dont-email.me...
There used to be a huge aftermarket in reduced capacity used 6V
batteries. Good AH per dollar spent for the penny pinchers. New ones
were crazy expensive though. My electric scissors lifts both used 4
large 6V deep cycles. The second time I replaced a set I said screw
this, and dropped a pair of 12V deep cycles in their place. I had about >>>> half the run time, but 1/4 the price. If I needed more run time I could >>>> have just tied in another bank in parallel and still been half the cost >>>> of 4 big sixes.
Bob La Londe
-------------------------------------
The large UPS aftermarket I sometimes score in seems to be all 12V.
My APCs take 24V so I need relatively matched pairs for them. These
help measure and monitor their condition:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09P661829/ref=twister_B09697FNMS?
_encoding=UTF8&th=1
You have to guess and set the Ah capacity when fully charged, it
measures the actual Ah capacity with a full discharge. On recharge
when it reaches the set capacity it stops counting, which is
appropriate for a lead-acid on float or trickle that still accepts
(and wastes) a small current when fully charged. Watt-hours isn't too
useful because wire IR drop affects the voltage.
Bestek sells nice, fairly inexpensive true sine inverters in 300W and
500W.
https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-300Watt-Power-Inverter-Adapter/dp/
B07KQ4Q2L5/ref=asc_df_B07KQ4Q2L5?
In my past life as a contractor I fixed UPS units all the time. They
all had 12V 7AH gel cells. There might have been a few big units with
10AH batteries, but 99% of them used the same old 12V 7AH gel battery.
Since I used 12V 7AH batteries in every burglar alarm, fire alarm, and
cellular or radio back up communicator I usually had two cases on the
shelf. Never less than one case and if I got down to one I already
had more on the way.
Generally my goal with those batteries (whatever the application) was
to have to do nothing with my feet up on my desk and receive the
service contract checks in the mail. I bought the best batteries I
could find. I'm sure all the prices have changed, but my cost back in
the day for an inexpensive 12/7 was around $7-9 and the cost for what
I decided anecdotally was the best was about $15. If I could go 3-5
years (unless contracted other wise) instead of 1-3 I was money ahead
to use the better batteries. I installed thousands of 12/7 batteries,
and probably hundreds of 12/4s where 12/7s wouldn't fit.
It used to be Yuasa made the best batteries, but they went through
some shakeups and name change and might not be exactly the same
company anymore. The last time I bought some they held up, so they
may still be the best 12/7 gel battery available.
I need to order some again soon. One of my access control expansion
modules is sending me a low battery signal.
When the battery in my free UPS went TU I had a 12/9 battery I had
bought online intended for use with my electric pivoting jib crane (for
firewood handling) that I decided was not sufficient for it's intended
purpose . But with a slight terminal modification it slipped right into
that UPS like it was made for it . I still hate that beep , but it does
tell me when the power goes out .
Is it by any chance the same physical size as the 12/7 gel batteries? I >found a lot of companies marketing their batteries as higher AH, but
were the same physical size. In practice the Yuasa batteries cost more
and lasted longer.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
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