Other than a big well adjusted hydraulic shear is there a practical way
to cut stainless sheet and get a clean edge?

Something that can be done with power/hand tools on site. Something
that might leave a cosmetic or near cosmetic edge that only needs to be deburred for safety.

I made the mistake of doing a stainless project in the house (a simple
one) where I could hide my hand cut edge by braking and pinching the
hand cut edge. It looks really sharp good, but now SWMBO has requested
another stainless project where I can not really hide all the hand cut
edges.


--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 18/02/2022 15:45, Bob La Londe wrote:

Other than a big well adjusted hydraulic shear is there a practical
way to cut stainless sheet and get a clean edge?

Something that can be done with power/hand tools on site. Something
that might leave a cosmetic or near cosmetic edge that only needs to
be deburred for safety.

I made the mistake of doing a stainless project in the house (a simple
one) where I could hide my hand cut edge by braking and pinching the
hand cut edge.  It looks really sharp good, but now SWMBO has
requested another stainless project where I can not really hide all
the hand cut edges.

I've cut a number of thin stainless sheet cooker extractor covers and
found the best way is to cut with a angle grinder using a thin disk
(1mm) and do so in a number of light passes rather than trying to cut
through in one go. Less heat input with light cuts leads to little to no
heat discolouration at the cut. I put masking tape on the stainless and
clamp a piece of bar as a cutting guide on the side to keep if possible
in case a slip marks the surface.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

If you can find an archive of old usenet articles, look for
articles about cutting stainless with a high speed bandsaw. The "high
speed" discussed was in the range of wood cutting saws and blades
that had lost their teeth worked as well as those with.

Hul

Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:

Other than a big well adjusted hydraulic shear is there a practical way
to cut stainless sheet and get a clean edge?

Something that can be done with power/hand tools on site. Something
that might leave a cosmetic or near cosmetic edge that only needs to be deburred for safety.

I made the mistake of doing a stainless project in the house (a simple
one) where I could hide my hand cut edge by braking and pinching the
hand cut edge. It looks really sharp good, but now SWMBO has requested another stainless project where I can not really hide all the hand cut
edges.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 2/18/2022 9:02 AM, David Billington wrote:

On 18/02/2022 15:45, Bob La Londe wrote:

Other than a big well adjusted hydraulic shear is there a practical
way to cut stainless sheet and get a clean edge?

Something that can be done with power/hand tools on site. Something
that might leave a cosmetic or near cosmetic edge that only needs to
be deburred for safety.

I made the mistake of doing a stainless project in the house (a simple
one) where I could hide my hand cut edge by braking and pinching the
hand cut edge.  It looks really sharp good, but now SWMBO has
requested another stainless project where I can not really hide all
the hand cut edges.

I've cut a number of thin stainless sheet cooker extractor covers and
found the best way is to cut with a angle grinder using a thin disk
(1mm) and do so in a number of light passes rather than trying to cut
through in one go. Less heat input with light cuts leads to little to no
heat discolouration at the cut. I put masking tape on the stainless and
clamp a piece of bar as a cutting guide on the side to keep if possible
in case a slip marks the surface.

In a recent (few months maybe) video from Fireball Tools they also
showed that the discs last longer by light tracing vs through cutting,
but it takes longer.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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On 2/18/2022 9:25 AM, Hul Tytus wrote:

If you can find an archive of old usenet articles, look for
articles about cutting stainless with a high speed bandsaw. The "high
speed" discussed was in the range of wood cutting saws and blades
that had lost their teeth worked as well as those with.

Hul

Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:

Other than a big well adjusted hydraulic shear is there a practical way
to cut stainless sheet and get a clean edge?

Something that can be done with power/hand tools on site. Something
that might leave a cosmetic or near cosmetic edge that only needs to be
deburred for safety.

I made the mistake of doing a stainless project in the house (a simple
one) where I could hide my hand cut edge by braking and pinching the
hand cut edge. It looks really sharp good, but now SWMBO has requested
another stainless project where I can not really hide all the hand cut
edges.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

Joe Pi recently did a video showing cutting thin sheet with the blade
reversed on the bandsaw. Unfortunately I don't see any practical way to
run a 4x8 sheet through my small shop size band saw. Honestly I didn't
think Joe's results were as good as he made them out to be. Of course
often things look different on camera as opposed to in person.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

"Hul Tytus" wrote in message news:suohaf$646$1@reader1.panix.com...

If you can find an archive of old usenet articles, look for
articles about cutting stainless with a high speed bandsaw. The "high
speed" discussed was in the range of wood cutting saws and blades
that had lost their teeth worked as well as those with.

Hul
--------------------

I contributed to that old thread, having done it after the teeth dulled, the cut heated red-hot and the blade kept cutting anyway. When the front edge rounded and bulged unevenly I reversed the blade and friction-cut with the
back side. The edge wasn't pretty but it cleaned up well enough for the interior of the industrial oven I was modifying. IIRC it worked at <100 FPM initially, but better and with less pressure when faster. I think a small
air rotary or belt sander would clean the edge up as nicely as they do on
sheet steel.

My go-to tool to cut sheet metal thicker than the 30" shear/brake/roll can handle is the Enco version of this: https://www.eastwood.com/8-in-bench-shear.html
It cuts straight or convex but not concave; the concave side cut-off is strongly bent.

I have the double-scissors and round punch types of sheet metal air
nibblers. The round punch cuts the smallest concave curves and the scissor
can handle large sheets, like a damaged above-ground pool I cut into
manageable sections. Both wander off the cut line more easily and may need
more edge cleanup than the 8" bench shear. After knocking off the burr I straighten and flatten the cut edge with a planishing hammer and anvil,
which makes it easier to file smooth. The round punch tool makes nasty
pointed chips that are difficult to collect unless they are magnetic.

A corner notcher is a nice free-hand precision shear for small work. http://www.cpmfab.com/roper-whitney-notchers.htm
Mine is the old model 100 so I cut only thin steel, brass or aluminum on one side.
jsw

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:

Other than a big well adjusted hydraulic shear is there a practical way
to cut stainless sheet and get a clean edge?

Something that can be done with power/hand tools on site. Something
that might leave a cosmetic or near cosmetic edge that only needs to be deburred for safety.

I made the mistake of doing a stainless project in the house (a simple
one) where I could hide my hand cut edge by braking and pinching the
hand cut edge. It looks really sharp good, but now SWMBO has requested another stainless project where I can not really hide all the hand cut
edges.

24 ga stainless might be OK with one of those powered metal shears with
the pistol drill handle. Use oil, it makes a difference.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

My go-to tool to cut sheet metal thicker than the 30" shear/brake/roll can handle is the Enco version of this: https://www.eastwood.com/8-in-bench-shear.html
It cuts straight or convex but not concave; the concave side cut-off is strongly bent.

That has a straight blade, right? How about a Beverly B3? Cuts very
cleanly provided it's sharp and adjusted. (Otherwise a bit of burr to
clean up -- what the OP wants to avoid..) But it will cut curves in
both directions.


--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 2/18/2022 12:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

On 2/18/2022 9:02 AM, David Billington wrote:

On 18/02/2022 15:45, Bob La Londe wrote:

Other than a big well adjusted hydraulic shear is there a practical
way to cut stainless sheet and get a clean edge?

Something that can be done with power/hand tools on site. Something
that might leave a cosmetic or near cosmetic edge that only needs to
be deburred for safety.

I made the mistake of doing a stainless project in the house (a
simple one) where I could hide my hand cut edge by braking and
pinching the hand cut edge.  It looks really sharp good, but now
SWMBO has requested another stainless project where I can not really
hide all the hand cut edges.

I've cut a number of thin stainless sheet cooker extractor covers and
found the best way is to cut with a angle grinder using a thin disk
(1mm) and do so in a number of light passes rather than trying to cut
through in one go. Less heat input with light cuts leads to little to
no heat discolouration at the cut. I put masking tape on the stainless
and clamp a piece of bar as a cutting guide on the side to keep if
possible in case a slip marks the surface.

In a recent (few months maybe) video from Fireball Tools they also
showed that the discs last longer by light tracing vs through cutting,
but it takes longer.

I watched that one too . And I like David's use of a piece of flat
bar as a guide . My cutoff disc cuts always look like crap ...
--
Snag
My rights don't end
where your fear begins .

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

"Snag" wrote in message news:supd6d$715$1@dont-email.me...

I watched that one too . And I like David's use of a piece of flat
bar as a guide . My cutoff disc cuts always look like crap ...
Snag
---------------------
My cutoff disc cuts do too, but it's about the only fast and easy way to cut corrugated steel roofing.

I bought a couple of $15 angle grinders that overheat rapidly and set them
up for the quick cleanup jobs like smoothing cut edges and wire-brushing
rust or slag, so I don't have to keep changing the disk on the good angle grinders, or risk them by grinding concrete or rocks. The 4-1/2" cheapies aren't up to cutting out a bad weld so I bought an inexpensive light duty 7" grinder and leave a reinforced cutoff disk on it, and a saucer disk on the
good 7" Porter-Cable to smooth or flatten the welds.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

"Mike Spencer" wrote in message
news:87zgmnaiox.fsf@bogus.nodomain.nowhere...


"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

My go-to tool to cut sheet metal thicker than the 30" shear/brake/roll can handle is the Enco version of this: https://www.eastwood.com/8-in-bench-shear.html
It cuts straight or convex but not concave; the concave side cut-off is strongly bent.

That has a straight blade, right? How about a Beverly B3? Cuts very
cleanly provided it's sharp and adjusted. (Otherwise a bit of burr to
clean up -- what the OP wants to avoid..) But it will cut curves in
both directions.

Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

-------------------------

I've seen only one Beverly shear for sale, priced too high to justify, so I can't review a tool I haven't used. My guess is that it could be difficult
to see and closely follow a line from the far side of the sheet, unlike with manual aircraft shears which can cut a sheet stood up on edge. That's a
problem with the 8" bench shear too.

Most of my sheet metal work is making repair parts and electronic housings, which generally requires straight cuts. I'm not very artistic and don't
design curves unless necessary for auto body rust repairs, where they
hopefully will disappear after welding.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 19/2/22 5:13 am, Bob La Londe wrote:

On 2/18/2022 9:02 AM, David Billington wrote:

On 18/02/2022 15:45, Bob La Londe wrote:

Other than a big well adjusted hydraulic shear is there a practical
way to cut stainless sheet and get a clean edge?

Something that can be done with power/hand tools on site. Something
that might leave a cosmetic or near cosmetic edge that only needs to
be deburred for safety.

I made the mistake of doing a stainless project in the house (a
simple one) where I could hide my hand cut edge by braking and
pinching the hand cut edge.  It looks really sharp good, but now
SWMBO has requested another stainless project where I can not really
hide all the hand cut edges.

I've cut a number of thin stainless sheet cooker extractor covers and
found the best way is to cut with a angle grinder using a thin disk
(1mm) and do so in a number of light passes rather than trying to cut
through in one go. Less heat input with light cuts leads to little to
no heat discolouration at the cut. I put masking tape on the stainless
and clamp a piece of bar as a cutting guide on the side to keep if
possible in case a slip marks the surface.

In a recent (few months maybe) video from Fireball Tools they also
showed that the discs last longer by light tracing vs through cutting,
but it takes longer.

The longer life is easy to understand; the lower the angle of attack
(shallow cut) the less the disk gets bits torn from its circumference.

But regarding clean cutting, if the disk *only just* reaches through the
steel, the circumference is moving parallel to the lower surface, not
laterally through it. So the burr is not pushed away from the surface.

The exact same principle applies when cutting melamine board with a
circular saw; adjust the blade to only just penetrate the board, and you
get a much cleaner cut with less chipping of the melamine surface.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 9:45:43 AM UTC-6, Bob La Londe wrote:

Other than a big well adjusted hydraulic shear is there a practical way
to cut stainless sheet and get a clean edge?

Something that can be done with power/hand tools on site. Something
that might leave a cosmetic or near cosmetic edge that only needs to be deburred for safety.

I made the mistake of doing a stainless project in the house (a simple
one) where I could hide my hand cut edge by braking and pinching the
hand cut edge. It looks really sharp good, but now SWMBO has requested another stainless project where I can not really hide all the hand cut
edges.

--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

Only three come to mind to be explored: 1 laser
2 plasma
3 water Time for a new tool!

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 2/21/22 11:34, wws wrote:

On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 9:45:43 AM UTC-6, Bob La Londe wrote:

Other than a big well adjusted hydraulic shear is there a practical way
to cut stainless sheet and get a clean edge?

Something that can be done with power/hand tools on site. Something
that might leave a cosmetic or near cosmetic edge that only needs to be
deburred for safety.

I made the mistake of doing a stainless project in the house (a simple
one) where I could hide my hand cut edge by braking and pinching the
hand cut edge. It looks really sharp good, but now SWMBO has requested
another stainless project where I can not really hide all the hand cut
edges.


--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

Only three come to mind to be explored: 1 laser
2 plasma
3 water
Time for a new tool!

I don't know how far from the edge you need to cut but another
possibility is a set of shearing dies on a bead roller. I have a manual
bead roller from Harbor Freight that's no longer on their web site with
a 19" throat that came with several bead and flanging dies along with a
set of shearing dies. It can handle 20 ga steel but to roll beads on
the ends of 3" OD 16 ga 304SS intercooler piping I added a support strap
right next to the dies to reduce the throat to about 1" :-). I've
mostly done beads and played with a few flanges, and never actually
tried to cut anything so I don't know how clean the edge would be.
Eastwood has an electric bead roller and shearing dies to fit it, but
those dies won't fit their manual bead roller. A quick google search
turned up several other brands online but I didn't study the specs. You
could also turn your own set of dies if you already have a bead roller.
The advantage compared to a Beverly type shear is that the cut would
be continuous so easier to keep straight over a long distance and no
little jaggies every few inches as you reposition the sheet for the next
short cut.

--
Regards,
Carl

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 2/21/2022 1:10 PM, Carl wrote:

On 2/21/22 11:34, wws wrote:

On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 9:45:43 AM UTC-6, Bob La Londe wrote:

Other than a big well adjusted hydraulic shear is there a practical way
to cut stainless sheet and get a clean edge?

Something that can be done with power/hand tools on site. Something
that might leave a cosmetic or near cosmetic edge that only needs to be
deburred for safety.

I made the mistake of doing a stainless project in the house (a simple
one) where I could hide my hand cut edge by braking and pinching the
hand cut edge. It looks really sharp good, but now SWMBO has requested
another stainless project where I can not really hide all the hand cut
edges.


--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

Only three come to mind to be explored: 1 laser

2 plasma

3 water
Time for a new tool!

I don't know how far from the edge you need to cut but another
possibility is a set of shearing dies on a bead roller.  I have a manual bead roller from Harbor Freight that's no longer on their web site with
a 19" throat that came with several bead and flanging dies along with a
set of shearing dies.  It can handle 20 ga steel but to roll beads on
the ends of 3" OD 16 ga 304SS intercooler piping I added a support strap right next to the dies to reduce the throat to about 1" :-).  I've
mostly done beads and played with a few flanges, and never actually
tried to cut anything so I don't know how clean the edge would be.
Eastwood has an electric bead roller and shearing dies to fit it, but
those dies won't fit their manual bead roller.  A quick google search
turned up several other brands online but I didn't study the specs.  You could also turn your own set of dies if you already have a bead roller.
 The advantage compared to a Beverly type shear is that the cut would
be continuous so easier to keep straight over a long distance and no
little jaggies every few inches as you reposition the sheet for the next short cut.

Maybe I'll do some looking around on YouTube and see if I can watch
somebody doing that kind of cut on a bead roller.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 2/21/2022 9:34 AM, wws wrote:

On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 9:45:43 AM UTC-6, Bob La Londe wrote:

Other than a big well adjusted hydraulic shear is there a practical way
to cut stainless sheet and get a clean edge?

Something that can be done with power/hand tools on site. Something
that might leave a cosmetic or near cosmetic edge that only needs to be
deburred for safety.

I made the mistake of doing a stainless project in the house (a simple
one) where I could hide my hand cut edge by braking and pinching the
hand cut edge. It looks really sharp good, but now SWMBO has requested
another stainless project where I can not really hide all the hand cut
edges.


--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

Only three come to mind to be explored: 1 laser
2 plasma
3 water
Time for a new tool!

Laser or water jet would be awesome. Space/power/money. Pick any two
and I don't have the third one either. Seriously though those are good
options. Just out of my budget. Plasma might be possible, but the size
could be an issue. As little as I would use it a Langmuir table and an
import plasma might be ok for this thin stuff. Maybe I can get SWMBO to
take it out of her play money since its for her project. LOL

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sv0sui$1h71$1@gioia.aioe.org...

Laser or water jet would be awesome. Space/power/money. Pick any two
and I don't have the third one either. Seriously though those are good
options. Just out of my budget. Plasma might be possible, but the size
could be an issue. As little as I would use it a Langmuir table and an
import plasma might be ok for this thin stuff. Maybe I can get SWMBO to
take it out of her play money since its for her project. LOL

------------------

The local MakerSpace has a CNC plasma cutter and makes arrangements with
small businesses, such as renting them space. You could contact yours and
ask.

Some years ago a nearby steel supplier told me they had a plasma cutter that could follow a drawn line. They may have meant it would copy from the
drawing to a metal sheet beside it.

Then again... https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/22706-How-I-do-accurate-plasma-cutting-(demo-d-using-Longevity-logo-contest-entry)

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 2/21/2022 1:10 PM, Carl wrote:

On 2/21/22 11:34, wws wrote:

On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 9:45:43 AM UTC-6, Bob La Londe wrote:

Other than a big well adjusted hydraulic shear is there a practical way
to cut stainless sheet and get a clean edge?

Something that can be done with power/hand tools on site. Something
that might leave a cosmetic or near cosmetic edge that only needs to be
deburred for safety.

I made the mistake of doing a stainless project in the house (a simple
one) where I could hide my hand cut edge by braking and pinching the
hand cut edge. It looks really sharp good, but now SWMBO has requested
another stainless project where I can not really hide all the hand cut
edges.


--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

Only three come to mind to be explored: 1 laser

2 plasma

3 water
Time for a new tool!

I don't know how far from the edge you need to cut but another
possibility is a set of shearing dies on a bead roller.  I have a manual bead roller from Harbor Freight that's no longer on their web site with
a 19" throat that came with several bead and flanging dies along with a
set of shearing dies.  It can handle 20 ga steel but to roll beads on
the ends of 3" OD 16 ga 304SS intercooler piping I added a support strap right next to the dies to reduce the throat to about 1" :-).  I've
mostly done beads and played with a few flanges, and never actually
tried to cut anything so I don't know how clean the edge would be.
Eastwood has an electric bead roller and shearing dies to fit it, but
those dies won't fit their manual bead roller.  A quick google search
turned up several other brands online but I didn't study the specs.  You could also turn your own set of dies if you already have a bead roller.
 The advantage compared to a Beverly type shear is that the cut would
be continuous so easier to keep straight over a long distance and no
little jaggies every few inches as you reposition the sheet for the next short cut.

Ok, This is an official YOU SUCK. LOL. I found a couple videos of
guys using bead rollers to shear sheet metal and I have to admit I am
impressed with the possibilities. I wish that was the end of it.
Unfortunately I went down the rabbit hole. A relatively cheap (not the cheapest) bead roller would probably have done the trick for he original project. Making/sharpening/modifying bead roller dies is well within my capabilities. Then I started looking into the various capabilities of
bead rolling. It will do some cool things. I have a dozen new projects
in mind, and its a very possible answer to some other projects I already
wanted to do. Now I want one of those 36 inch throat Baleighs that will
form 10 gauge.

Seriously though. Thank you. I may not go that way for this project (I might), but I definitely got a different mental grasp of the scope of a
bead roller. Previously I pretty much though of it as a toy for making
oil can lids to weld into the floor boards of project cars. Now I
realize it can be so much more depending on the tool. Thank you again
even if I do have to add another 8 grand to my tools wish list.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 2/21/2022 4:11 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:sv0sui$1h71$1@gioia.aioe.org...

Laser or water jet would be awesome.  Space/power/money.  Pick any two
and I don't have the third one either. Seriously though those are good options.  Just out of my budget.  Plasma might be possible, but the size could be an issue.   As little as I would use it a Langmuir table and an import plasma might be ok for this thin stuff.  Maybe I can get SWMBO to take it out of her play money since its for her project.  LOL

------------------

The local MakerSpace has a CNC plasma cutter and makes arrangements with small businesses, such as renting them space. You could contact yours
and ask.

Some years ago a nearby steel supplier told me they had a plasma cutter
that could follow a drawn line. They may have meant it would copy from
the drawing to a metal sheet beside it.

Then again... https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/22706-How-I-do-accurate-plasma-cutting-(demo-d-using-Longevity-logo-contest-entry)

There is a tracer type setup (not sure what it is called) that will
literally follow a black line on a white background. A local
fabrication and industrial shop I know of has one setup with big
industrial cutting torch heads. I think they called it a pantagraph,
but I also thought a pantagraph had a stylus. I guess it could be an
optical stylus. Its not a cheap machine.

I don't know of a Maker Space here in Yuma, Arizona. I've thought about creating one, but I really don't want to share my machines with folks
that didn't pay for them.


--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sv17ho$b6d$1@gioia.aioe.org...

I don't know of a Maker Space here in Yuma, Arizona. I've thought about creating one, but I really don't want to share my machines with folks
that didn't pay for them.

---------
https://wiki.hackerspaces.org/Arizona

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sv16b7$1r9c$1@gioia.aioe.org...

Ok, This is an official YOU SUCK. LOL. I found a couple videos of
guys using bead rollers to shear sheet metal and I have to admit I am
impressed with the possibilities. I wish that was the end of it.
Unfortunately I went down the rabbit hole. A relatively cheap (not the cheapest) bead roller would probably have done the trick for he original project. Making/sharpening/modifying bead roller dies is well within my capabilities. Then I started looking into the various capabilities of
bead rolling. It will do some cool things. I have a dozen new projects
in mind, and its a very possible answer to some other projects I already
wanted to do. Now I want one of those 36 inch throat Baleighs that will
form 10 gauge.

Seriously though. Thank you. I may not go that way for this project (I might), but I definitely got a different mental grasp of the scope of a
bead roller. Previously I pretty much though of it as a toy for making
oil can lids to weld into the floor boards of project cars. Now I
realize it can be so much more depending on the tool. Thank you again
even if I do have to add another 8 grand to my tools wish list.

----------------------
Just think what sheet metal workers used to do with hand tools: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maximilian_armour

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sv17ho$b6d$1@gioia.aioe.org...

I don't know of a Maker Space here in Yuma, Arizona. I've thought about creating one, but I really don't want to share my machines with folks
that didn't pay for them.

---------------------

My lathe came from a trade school. I can't imagine doing some of the damage
the students inflicted, like using the tailstock spindle as an anvil horn.

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On 2/21/2022 5:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:sv17ho$b6d$1@gioia.aioe.org...

I don't know of a Maker Space here in Yuma, Arizona.  I've thought about creating one, but I really don't want to share my machines with folks
that didn't pay for them.

---------------------

My lathe came from a trade school. I can't imagine doing some of the
damage the students inflicted, like using the tailstock spindle as an
anvil horn.

I looked out of curiosity. There is no Maker/Hacker/Builder/_____ Space
that I could find within about 170 miles. Well, not in Arizona anyway.
I saw two advertisements for a MakerSpace locally, but one turned out
to be a one day project day for kids at the county library, and the
other turned out to be a one day event at the local community college.
Probably for recruitment.

There are some things I don't have of course, but for a one man
operation I have what I consider to be a fair "makerspace" of my own. 5 currently running small CNC mills. 2 currently operational lathes, a
decent size knee mill (SB1028), some smaller stuff, 4 currently
functional welders (2 are good), 4x8 welding table, 48 inch Tennsmith
brake, saws ad nauseum, etc etc etc... and a rash of hand held pneumatic
and power tools to go with my hand tools. Just the other day I bought
an "economy" pneumatic pop rivet gun from McMaster. It turned out to be
a Chicago Pneumatic. LOL. If I get really desperate my son has three
small 3D printers in the garage. (2 resin and 1 filament) He has
printed a few projects for me. That's nice really. I just give him a
3D model and tell him how strong (or not) it needs to be.

I don't have anything for handling full size sheet good. For plywood I
break it down with a Skil Worm drive (or another saw I have with its own
saw guide). Bandsaw, mitersaw, table saw, etc... takes care of the
rest. For sheet metal and plate I use a hand held torch, plasma cutter,
or metal cutting circular saw to break it down. Sometimes bandsaw(s).

You know. I do have a small piece of stainless sheet left over from the
last project. I just might try the plasma cutter and see what kind of
edge it leaves. I'm not great at straight lines, but I can hang it off
the welding table, and clamp a piece of angle to it for a guide. A
fresh nozzle and a wire standoff/drag should limit the kerf variations.


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"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:svgi8k$ncb$1@dont-email.me...

...
I don't have anything for handling full size sheet good. For plywood I
break it down with a Skil Worm drive (or another saw I have with its own
saw guide). Bandsaw, mitersaw, table saw, etc... takes care of the
rest. For sheet metal and plate I use a hand held torch, plasma cutter,
or metal cutting circular saw to break it down. Sometimes bandsaw(s).

You know. I do have a small piece of stainless sheet left over from the
last project. I just might try the plasma cutter and see what kind of
edge it leaves. I'm not great at straight lines, but I can hang it off
the welding table, and clamp a piece of angle to it for a guide. A
fresh nozzle and a wire standoff/drag should limit the kerf variations. -----------------------

https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum/welding-discussions/22276-can-you-use-wood-mdf-templates-with-a-plasma-cutter

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On 2/27/2022 4:29 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:svgi8k$ncb$1@dont-email.me...

...
I don't have anything for handling full size sheet good.  For plywood I break it down with a Skil Worm drive (or another saw I have with its own
saw guide).  Bandsaw, mitersaw, table saw, etc... takes care of the
rest.  For sheet metal and plate I use a hand held torch, plasma cutter,
or metal cutting circular saw to break it down.  Sometimes bandsaw(s).

You know.  I do have a small piece of stainless sheet left over from the last project.  I just might try the plasma cutter and see what kind of
edge it leaves.  I'm not great at straight lines, but I can hang it off
the welding table, and clamp a piece of angle to it for a guide.  A
fresh nozzle and a wire standoff/drag should limit the kerf variations. -----------------------

https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum/welding-discussions/22276-can-you-use-wood-mdf-templates-with-a-plasma-cutter

Have you seen the price of wood lately? LOL.


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On 2/27/2022 6:41 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

On 2/27/2022 4:29 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:svgi8k$ncb$1@dont-email.me...

...
I don't have anything for handling full size sheet good.  For plywood I
break it down with a Skil Worm drive (or another saw I have with its own
saw guide).  Bandsaw, mitersaw, table saw, etc... takes care of the
rest.  For sheet metal and plate I use a hand held torch, plasma cutter,
or metal cutting circular saw to break it down.  Sometimes bandsaw(s).

You know.  I do have a small piece of stainless sheet left over from the
last project.  I just might try the plasma cutter and see what kind of
edge it leaves.  I'm not great at straight lines, but I can hang it off
the welding table, and clamp a piece of angle to it for a guide.  A
fresh nozzle and a wire standoff/drag should limit the kerf variations.
-----------------------

https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum/welding-discussions/22276-can-you-use-wood-mdf-templates-with-a-plasma-cutter

Have you seen the price of wood lately?  LOL.

Actually that does have more merit the more I think about it. I do need
to make some cutouts in the sheet, and a guide like that I can crank out
on one of the CNC mills would be perfect. I would say on the little CNC router, but its in a state of disarray. It started killing Z axis
stepper drives and I decided to strip it for parts and build something better... yeah... after the 9,736 more important projects that come first.


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