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  • Stock Storage

    From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jun 9 16:50:07 2025
    For the type of work I do I buy a bit of aluminum flat bar. My last
    order was a little over 900lbs of 12ft long bars, and I had another
    600-700 lbs of full bars on hand plus shorts and cutoff.

    The cutoffs I put on shelves, but the 12 footers I really haven't a
    place for. At the moment I've got the latest order outdoors leaning up
    against a shipping container, and the rest of the older stock is leaning
    up against shelves and walls inside the shop. The inside of the
    shipping container is lined with shelves being used to recover space in
    the shop, and it's not setup for practical stock storage.

    I hate it.

    Of course I also buy a little bit of 20' aluminum pipe and tube. That
    is to long to lean up against anything inside the shop, but one problem
    at a time.

    If you have a storage solution for the standard (maybe only USA
    standard) 12 foot stock flat bar I'd love to see it. My shop has a 16ft
    eave height so I can store it vertically anywhere inside that I have the
    floor space, but I am trying to recover, not lose floor space right now.
    I am even considering just storing it all outdoors.

    Modify message

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    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff


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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Tue Jun 10 11:33:19 2025
    On 6/9/2025 10:00 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Jim Wilkins"  wrote in message news:102890r$116qk$1@dont-email.me...

    A fixed rack below the
    beams was better, it can be suspended at all four corners if there's extra space at one end to angle long stock in. Supporting long stock ~1/4 of its length in from both ends bends it the least. ---------------------------------
    If you leave one stock length clear at one end of a roof-suspended rack
    you can lift a piece by its center with a chainfall hung slightly less
    than half a stock length out from the end of the rack. When it's at rack height you can climb a ladder, support the end of the stock on the rack
    and slide it in. The chainfall sling will support the outer end while
    you move the ladder until the stock balances on the rack.

    This way you could move twice the weight you can lift with minimal
    equipment, since you lift only half its weight at the end. I can slide a
    20', 400 Lb wooden beam onto a stack, though not from a stepladder. I temporarily hang a gantry track across the center of the stack of beams
    to pile more onto it.

    Sawmill practice is to place thin wood strips between rows to speed
    drying. I found that 3/4" spacing is too tight for mice to nest and foul
    the space. The spacers or "stickers" allow slipping a webbing sling
    around the stock, or a forklift fork under it.
    jsw


    I decided to throw money at the problem. Behind my shop is a 20x60
    concrete slab. On the edge of the slab was is where I placed the 40'
    high cube container leaving 12 feet between the container and the
    building.

    My future plan has been to place two 20ft continers that are current at
    my parents house on the far end of the slab facing outwards (doors will
    open over dirt), and one I already have (currently out front) against
    the building parallel to the 40 footer. This leaves a 4 foot passage (nominally) between the 40 foot containers and the other containers and
    a 12 x 24 open area protected from casual view.

    Its always been my plan to put a 12 x 20 shade structure for outdoor
    work in that 12 x 24 space for blacksmithing, foundry work, etc. The
    little bit of blacksmithing I do now is typically done just inside the
    south door of the shop with the overhead door standing open. I set my
    little blacksmith furnace on the welding table. The light is not ideal.
    It makes it hard to see the color of the metal with the direct
    sunlight coming in the door.

    I had planned to add the shade structure after the containers were in
    place, but I can add it first. I just need to be extra careful when
    placing the parallel container so I do not damage the shade. After the containers are in place I can move any racking I buy or build inside one
    of the containers.

    I threw money at it and ordered the shade this morning.
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    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Wed Jun 11 08:04:36 2025
    On 6/10/2025 6:24 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:1029tpe$1dr7m$1@dont-email.me...
    ..
    I threw money at it and ordered the shade this morning.
    Bob La Londe

    Which one?

    This one. https://www.homedepot.com/p/VIWAT-12-ft-W-x-20-ft-D-Metal-Carport-with-Enhanced-Base-Outdoor-Heavy-Duty-Garage-Galvanized-Car-Canopy-and-Shelter-MCR-M2012-DG-1/333138115

    I'm not to worried about rain damage. Dust wind are the big worries
    here. Rain will dry off of it quick enough. I found cheaper ones, but
    with freight they cost more. This one was free freight to me.



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    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Wed Jun 11 08:02:36 2025
    On 6/10/2025 4:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    Then there's the matter of what besides art and fake antiques can be
    forged more easily than welded and machined, or bought used. After
    taking the smithing class I concluded not much.

    You are right. I originally bought a small 80lb Russian anvil off of
    eBay. Was supposed ot be cast steel of a certain hardness, but it acts
    and sparks like cast iron. It was mostly for cold work. London pattern
    anvils are handy for shaping metal, but I have a presses, brakes, vises,
    and hammers. If you are sure of yourself most mild steel can be done
    cold worked, as long as you don't work it to its fatigue point.

    When my son took a blacksmithing class in college he developed a bit of
    an interest, and I picked up a slightly larger Chinese anvil that IS
    cast steel hardened into the high 30s low 40s RC.

    Most of the time when I need to do any hot work its easiest to just
    clamp a rosebud in the vise for small parts.

    My son and I have done some "art" pieces... more beating on metal for
    fun than real art. More like craft pieces at best. For me that was
    fun, and the hobby of blacksmithing allowed me to have a few easy birthday/Christmas present choices for him.

    I have also used the forge furnace a few times for upsetting the ends on
    shop made vise handles instead of machining balls for the ends, heat
    shrinking parts, and other heat assisted operations. I've alos used the propane BBQ grill for heat shrinking.

    I'm more likely to do some foundry work for direct commercial purposes,
    and its the reason I went with a 12x20 instead for a 12x24 shade
    structure. So the top blast of a foundry furnace doesn't burn a hole in
    it.


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    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff

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