"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:102nele$14o2m$1@dont-email.me...
There is also the matter of connecting them if I weld them in place.
I'd probably have to make a 3 piece connecting tube/rod or put it on
before I weld them in place. I'm thinking 3 pc connecting rod so I can
add a sprocket later.
but I am leaning more towards dual landing gear.
--------------------------------
Two separate unsprung wheeled jacks will only rarely share the tongue
weight.
I increased the ground footprint of the retractable mast end wheeled
jack on my shop crane by adding an outer pair of wheels on a longer
axle. They no longer caster well so I made a steering handle that
attaches to the axle and forces the wheels into line with my pull.
The first version had a hitch coupler on the end of the handle as a tow
bar. That worked well going forward unloaded but transferred all the
pull to the jack and its mount, and I couldn't back up, so the second
version has a separate rigidly attached coupler and a tee handle to pull
on the caster axle by hand but not with the tractor.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:102nlou$16ktt$1@dont-email.me...
Most wheel jacks aren't rated for this much weight either.
Landing gear... one of the plans for the connecting tube assembly is
snap pins rather than bolts or welding. Makes it dead easy to make sure both jacks contact the ground at the same time, or close enough.
-------------------------------------------
I don't quite get that.
There's also semi trailer landing gear, for a price. https://www.amazon.com/Stromberg-Carlson-LG-183708-Landing-Hardware/dp/ B004LFCE5Y?
I've cut the front jack off my gooseneck trailer. Its always been hard
to use, but the last time I tried I couldn't get it to move at all.
Moving the trailer around onsite is no big deal. I built a hitch multi hitch that snap into the 3 point on my tractor. Standard draw bar
receiver on the bottom. 5/16 ball on the top. Its really handy. I can move any of the trailers around fairly easily, and it leaves me the
option of parking trailers, boats, etc in the soft sandy areas of the
yard to get them out of the way of other things.
However, I need a working jack (or jacks) on the trailer to actually use
it for hauling. I cut the old one off with the front resting on jack stands. I could put another jack right where the old one was, but I am leaning more towards dual landing gear. I have a couple jacks for the purpose and they can be linked with a tube easily enough. That way I
can drive them both with a single handle, or slap a sprocket on the connecting tube and drive them with an old winch motor I will never use
again for a winch.
They are intended to be weld on jacks. I'm probably overthinking it,
but I've been wondering if it might be better to drag the AHP power
supply out and stick weld them. I don't typically stick weld anything
these days. If I can get it inside and the get welds horizontal I MIG (GMAW) weld. If I have to weld outside I usually run gasless flux core (FCAW).
There is also the matter of connecting them if I weld them in place. I'd probably have to make a 3 piece connecting tube/rod or put it on before
I weld them in place. I'm thinking 3 pc connecting rod so I can add a sprocket later.
Just thinking out loud. I'll probably stress over it for a few days,
and then just burn them in place with some FCAW wire.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103cf65$1gkqk$1@dont-email.me...
Interestingly, I welded on one jack one day using stacked weave tacks
and it looks like it won't fall off. Couldn't get vertical up or
vertical down to work at all. The next day I welded on the second jack
with all the exact same settings and ran two 12 inch beads vertical up continuous. Neither looks like a pro welded it I am sure, but I don't
think either jack will fall off. It was breezy both days, so MIG would
have not worked at all.
Maybe it was a little breezier the first day? I don't know.
Bob La Londe
-----------------------------------
I like to divide weldments into manageable sections that bolt together,
and disassemble to modify, repair or replace. This saves me from
questionable out-of-position welds. The size limit for me is how large I
can accurately drill or mill after welding.
In building custom industrial machinery there was a lot of manual
alignment and drilling/tapping of bolt holes which is easy to do
reasonably accurately with a set of transfer punches and a Portalign
drill fixture (or freehand with practice). Taper and aircraft length
drill bits in 1/8" pilot and optionally tap and shank sizes can avoid obstacles and span beam flanges. I've never needed a magnetic base drill.
Use bolts long enough to put the shank in the shear plane between
assemblies for full strength. I assume the bolts aren't tightened enough
to gain grip from friction between plates, and thus their shanks bear
the full load and they are reusable.
https://www.engineeringexpress.com/wiki/steel-bolt-edge-distance- requirements/
https://site.alliedbolt.com/files/ShearStrength2.pdf
https://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/145781854112?
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103f1mm$283e1$1@dont-email.me...
I'm not sure how that is relevant to welding on a complete jack assembly
to a complete trailer assembly. I guess I could have welded on flanges
and then bolted the flanges together, or perhaps made up an assortment
of plates and u-bolts and cut some holes in the deck to run the
fasteners around the frame. I'll just have to live with my welds and see
if they fall off.
Bob La Londe
----------------------------
It's about welding mounting plates to the legs while horizontal and then drilling instead of welding once they have been clamped in place on the trailer. I listed the simple equipment I use to locate and drill
structural steel accurately enough by hand outdoors. If the welds you
don't trust fail that might be the fix.
To a certain extent that is self deprecation, and to some extent I know
what a "pretty" weld should look like. I really don't think 48 inches
of weld will fail catastrophically all at once without warning causing
both jacks to suddenly fall off under load.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103hbhd$2tfs6$1@dont-email.me...
On 6/25/2025 10:19 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
To a certain extent that is self deprecation, and to some extent I
know what a "pretty" weld should look like. I really don't think 48
inches of weld will fail catastrophically all at once without warning
causing both jacks to suddenly fall off under load.
I am concerned my shade tree engineering may have been wrong and I may
have to cut them off and reweld them higher. LOL. We shall see. That could also just be my inner pessimist.
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
---------------------------------
That's the sort of rework that convinced me to not do things I couldn't
undo. To remind myself to at least think twice I put a pencil eraser on
the end of my Xacto knife.
I've noticed very skilled machinists avoiding old fashioned freehand
metal working like the plague, so I wrote that how-to in case you
hesitate to try it. They left me those jobs, such as laying out and
drilling hole patterns on sand castings.
On 6/25/2025 3:50 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103hbhd$2tfs6$1@dont-email.me...
On 6/25/2025 10:19 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
To a certain extent that is self deprecation, and to some extent I
know what a "pretty" weld should look like. I really don't think 48
inches of weld will fail catastrophically all at once without warning
causing both jacks to suddenly fall off under load.
I am concerned my shade tree engineering may have been wrong and I may
have to cut them off and reweld them higher. LOL. We shall see. That >> could also just be my inner pessimist.
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
---------------------------------
That's the sort of rework that convinced me to not do things I
couldn't undo. To remind myself to at least think twice I put a pencil
eraser on the end of my Xacto knife.
I've noticed very skilled machinists avoiding old fashioned freehand
metal working like the plague, so I wrote that how-to in case you
hesitate to try it. They left me those jobs, such as laying out and
drilling hole patterns on sand castings.
Snag, Richard, Clare, Leon, Everybody... did I just read that right? Did
he just call me a machinist?
I HAVE ARRIVED.
LOL
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103i2bg$32j9g$1@dont-email.me...
On 6/25/2025 3:50 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
... very skilled machinists ...
Snag, Richard, Clare, Leon, Everybody... did I just read that right? Did
he just call me a machinist?
I HAVE ARRIVED.
LOL
Bob La Londe
------------------------------------------
You best not be so sensitive to what I call you.
Besides, I'm not a paying customer.
On 6/23/2025 3:14 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:103cf65$1gkqk$1@dont-email.me...
Interestingly, I welded on one jack one day using stacked weave tacks
and it looks like it won't fall off. Couldn't get vertical up or
vertical down to work at all. The next day I welded on the second jack
with all the exact same settings and ran two 12 inch beads vertical up
continuous. Neither looks like a pro welded it I am sure, but I don't
think either jack will fall off. It was breezy both days, so MIG would
have not worked at all.
Maybe it was a little breezier the first day? I don't know.
Bob La Londe
-----------------------------------
I like to divide weldments into manageable sections that bolt together,
and disassemble to modify, repair or replace. This saves me from
questionable out-of-position welds. The size limit for me is how large I
can accurately drill or mill after welding.
In building custom industrial machinery there was a lot of manual
alignment and drilling/tapping of bolt holes which is easy to do
reasonably accurately with a set of transfer punches and a Portalign
drill fixture (or freehand with practice). Taper and aircraft length
drill bits in 1/8" pilot and optionally tap and shank sizes can avoid
obstacles and span beam flanges. I've never needed a magnetic base drill.
Use bolts long enough to put the shank in the shear plane between
assemblies for full strength. I assume the bolts aren't tightened enough
to gain grip from friction between plates, and thus their shanks bear
the full load and they are reusable.
https://www.engineeringexpress.com/wiki/steel-bolt-edge-distance-
requirements/
https://site.alliedbolt.com/files/ShearStrength2.pdf
https://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/145781854112?
I'm not sure how that is relevant to welding on a complete jack assembly
to a complete trailer assembly. I guess I could have welded on flanges
and then bolted the flanges together, or perhaps made up an assortment
of plates and u-bolts and cut some holes in the deck to run the
fasteners around the frame. I'll just have to live with my welds and see
if they fall off.
--Bolts?? I don't need no F'n bolts. Bolts are for guys who don't know
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
"Jim Wilkins"Â wrote in message news:103jf7i$3fabe$1@dont-email.me...
https://www.businessballs.com/amusement-stress-relief/tree-swing- cartoon-pictures-early-versions/
---------------------------
The link to "BusinessBalls tree swing cartoons" shows how far a project
could go astray in Britain. It's getting that way here too, depending on which party is in power and the opposition's resentfulness, currently
very high.
Segway posted prints of how cartoonists imagined "feature-creep" of the project. Engineering was small and multi-tasking enough to avoid compartmental division that causes the very real coordination issues mentioned in that article.
Segway engineers had a CNC lathe and mill to make samples of what they designed, unlike the auto factories with their strict union rules. I
often had to take a machining project home (and charge the time) because
the CNC was tied up. My older model shop sized machine tools are easier
to use on scribed layouts.
jsw
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103kkic$3nnjj$1@dont-email.me...
I've made a few parts to scribe lines and center punches. I made a
point of it after my son gave me an optical center punch set for
Christmas one year. I even have a couple height gages with carbide
scribes for helping with layout, although one usually only gets used to measure tool heights to be entered into a CNC machine's tool table. Its pretty scary when I bring that carbide scribe down on top of a 0.026"
ball nose end mill to measure the height.
-- Bob La Londe
------------------------------------
I learned to creep up on damageable things while wiggling paper between
the part and the height gauge or endmill. When the paper drags I have a
few thousandths of safe clearance left.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103kkic$3nnjj$1@dont-email.me...
I've made a few parts to scribe lines and center punches. I made a
point of it after my son gave me an optical center punch set for
Christmas one year. I even have a couple height gages with carbide
scribes for helping with layout, although one usually only gets used to measure tool heights to be entered into a CNC machine's tool table. Its pretty scary when I bring that carbide scribe down on top of a 0.026"
ball nose end mill to measure the height.
Bob La Londe
--------------------------
I haven't seen much if any need for manual layout when making new parts
to drawings, it's for modifying existing parts and castings that lack drawings and reference surfaces. I use it to mount electrical components
in plastic cases that compress when held firmly enough in the milling
vise and can't be repeatedly zeroed.
For instance I repaired a pivot hole in a control handle that had become egg-shaped almost to uselessness by locating the original center by
running a plug against the unworn side, boring the hole larger and
pressing in a bushing. This helped repair a $100 Toro 724 snowblower
with all repairable metal parts and good balance that doesn't hurt my
back to maneuver. I can't usually repair broken plastic, I have to
redesign the part in metal. A new plastic part could fail the same way
when it becomes brittle in the cold.
Another way to mark a hole center is to press in a wooden plug and into
that a square of sheet metal with its corners turned down. If other
centers are known they can be used to scribe the missing center on the
sheet metal. Punch, center and bore it on the mill or lathe. Taps ground between centers are useful for locating tapped through holes, pointed setscrews for blind ones.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103mgdl$87c2$2@dont-email.me...
Lots of modestly experienced and self taught manual machinists in the
maker crowd use layout as a sanity check.
----------------------------------------
That makes sense if they are primarily a designer rather than a
machinist. I was formally an electronic technician and laboratory
manager, with circuit design, CAD/CAM, programming and machining on the
side. I've done more machining on home projects than for work.
If the function of a part is obvious to me I'll draw it with dimensions
and follow them, when it has multiple interactions to coordinate I may alternately redesign and machine what I'm sure of. I have several
preliminary versions of the satellite laser link hardware that
separately addressed its mechanical, electrical or optical requirements. Since I didn't have a relevant engineering degree I was much more
convincing when I showed them a neatly machined sample of what I
intended than when I described or sketched it. The project manager
brought me in as an electronic tech and then gave me a free hand when he found I could also create hardware to his specs. One engineer said my black-painted optical work looked like the parts of a Norden bombsight.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103mfvg$87c2$1@dont-email.me...
On 6/26/2025 6:06 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
I learned to creep up on damageable things while wiggling paper
between the part and the height gauge or endmill. When the paper drags
I have a few thousandths of safe clearance left.
Paper is fine, if you measure the paper. I learned that right here on
this group. Most quality printer paper is about .003, but it can vary.
Its also slow, and if your reference surface is wet or covered in oil
its even slower because it changes the paper or you must take the time
to clean the surface.
-----------------------------------
I use paper only to tell when to advance more slowly, by thousandths. I
don't trust it as a feeler gauge either, only as a cushion.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103pkof$12a0h$1@dont-email.me...
Another trick if you are using HSS, or if you are very careful using
*carbide is to use a precision dowel pin, gage pin, shank of an end
mill, 123 block, gage block, etc. Start with your cutter slightly less
than your precision dimension fromt he stock, and slowly move it until
your gage just slides between. This is "maybe" more accurate than
paper, but I treat it the same since the preload of the lead screws is
in the opposite direction.
I prefer an edge finder, a tool height setter, and pre-measured tool
heights, but you never know what kind of situation you may find yourself
in.
* If using a sharp carbide cutter you have to take a lot of care to make
sure you do not chip a cutting edge using the slip gage method.
Bob La Londe
-----------------------------------
Good advice.
I use the items you mentioned and drill shanks as spacers to set the
lathe and mill stops for depth of cut when the tool contacts the
original surface if caliper jaws won't fit. Like hobby machines, my
1960's antiques don't have DROs.
On 6/28/2025 2:19 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103pkof$12a0h$1@dont-email.me...
Another trick if you are using HSS, or if you are very careful using
*carbide is to use a precision dowel pin, gage pin, shank of an end
mill, 123 block, gage block, etc. Start with your cutter slightly less
than your precision dimension fromt he stock, and slowly move it until
your gage just slides between. This is "maybe" more accurate than
paper, but I treat it the same since the preload of the lead screws is
in the opposite direction.
I prefer an edge finder, a tool height setter, and pre-measured tool
heights, but you never know what kind of situation you may find yourself
in.
* If using a sharp carbide cutter you have to take a lot of care to make
sure you do not chip a cutting edge using the slip gage method.
Bob La Londe
-----------------------------------
Good advice.
I use the items you mentioned and drill shanks as spacers to set the
lathe and mill stops for depth of cut when the tool contacts the
original surface if caliper jaws won't fit. Like hobby machines, my
1960's antiques don't have DROs.
Plenty of "hobby" machines do have DROs. Just ask anybody who is using
a high price "pro" machine that belongs to their boss's bank. LOL They will tell you all those import machines are hobby junk.
DROs are fairly cheap, and available for almost anything these days, but
many of the "better" prosumer/hobby importers offer preinstalled DROs as
an option.
There are even modestly priced DROs with bluetooth interface for a
tablet or maybe a cell phone. I'm not sure there. I like my DRO
hanging off of a big heavy steel arm.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103pnru$13bue$1@dont-email.me...
On 6/28/2025 2:19 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
my 1960's antiques don't have DROs.
Plenty of "hobby" machines do have DROs. Just ask anybody who is using
a high price "pro" machine that belongs to their boss's bank. LOL They will tell you all those import machines are hobby junk.
DROs are fairly cheap, and available for almost anything these days, but
many of the "better" prosumer/hobby importers offer preinstalled DROs as
an option.
There are even modestly priced DROs with bluetooth interface for a
tablet or maybe a cell phone. I'm not sure there. I like my DRO
hanging off of a big heavy steel arm.
Bob La Londe
-------------------------
I bought scales and a readout for the Clausing and made some mounting
parts but didn't like the way it would turn out. The mill wasn't
designed with space for them in mind. https://www.wentztech.com/metalworking/projects/clausing-8520-dro-install/
The table dials are large and 0.001" / div. I place a ruler graduated to
0.1" on the work as a turns counter. I have industry time on a Prototrak
and a manual DRO Bridgeport so I know the advantage on repetitive work
but for the one off cut-and-try fits to existing parts I do I don't miss
it. The mill is a good compact size to view cuts on small delicate work
with a magnifying headband.
On 6/28/2025 4:46 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 6/28/2025 2:19 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103pkof$12a0h$1@dont-email.me...
Another trick if you are using HSS, or if you are very careful using
*carbide is to use a precision dowel pin, gage pin, shank of an end
mill, 123 block, gage block, etc. Start with your cutter slightly less >>> than your precision dimension fromt he stock, and slowly move it until
your gage just slides between. This is "maybe" more accurate than
paper, but I treat it the same since the preload of the lead screws is
in the opposite direction.
I prefer an edge finder, a tool height setter, and pre-measured tool
heights, but you never know what kind of situation you may find yourself >>> in.
* If using a sharp carbide cutter you have to take a lot of care to make >>> sure you do not chip a cutting edge using the slip gage method.
Bob La Londe
-----------------------------------
Good advice.
I use the items you mentioned and drill shanks as spacers to set the
lathe and mill stops for depth of cut when the tool contacts the
original surface if caliper jaws won't fit. Like hobby machines, my
1960's antiques don't have DROs.
Plenty of "hobby" machines do have DROs. Just ask anybody who is
using a high price "pro" machine that belongs to their boss's bank.
LOLÂ They will tell you all those import machines are hobby junk.
DROs are fairly cheap, and available for almost anything these days,
but many of the "better" prosumer/hobby importers offer preinstalled
DROs as an option.
There are even modestly priced DROs with bluetooth interface for a
tablet or maybe a cell phone. I'm not sure there. I like my DRO
hanging off of a big heavy steel arm.
 I recently upgraded from a Shumatech DRO350 to a real DRO with optical scales instead of capacitive on my bench top mill . It hangs from a modestly sized piece of steel square tube . I briefly considered putting
the Shumatech unit on my lathe but saw no particular advantage for doing
so .
On 6/28/2025 3:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103pnru$13bue$1@dont-email.me...
On 6/28/2025 2:19 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
my 1960's antiques don't have DROs.
Plenty of "hobby" machines do have DROs. Just ask anybody who is using
a high price "pro" machine that belongs to their boss's bank. LOL They >> will tell you all those import machines are hobby junk.
DROs are fairly cheap, and available for almost anything these days, but
many of the "better" prosumer/hobby importers offer preinstalled DROs as
an option.
There are even modestly priced DROs with bluetooth interface for a
tablet or maybe a cell phone. I'm not sure there. I like my DRO
hanging off of a big heavy steel arm.
Bob La Londe
-------------------------
I bought scales and a readout for the Clausing and made some mounting
parts but didn't like the way it would turn out. The mill wasn't
designed with space for them in mind.
https://www.wentztech.com/metalworking/projects/clausing-8520-dro-install/ >>
The table dials are large and 0.001" / div. I place a ruler graduated
to 0.1" on the work as a turns counter. I have industry time on a
Prototrak and a manual DRO Bridgeport so I know the advantage on
repetitive work but for the one off cut-and-try fits to existing parts
I do I don't miss it. The mill is a good compact size to view cuts on
small delicate work with a magnifying headband.
Old School DRO. Use a dial indicator. Its the default for longitudinal
(Z axis) lathe work. Lots of people will set a zero to work towards on
the indicator. I think its easier to hit the mark than a digital DRO because you can have it in your field of view while watching the work as opposed to having to look up at the DRO.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103psbl$14ctm$1@dont-email.me...
Old School DRO. Use a dial indicator. Its the default for longitudinal
(Z axis) lathe work. Lots of people will set a zero to work towards on
the indicator. I think its easier to hit the mark than a digital DRO because you can have it in your field of view while watching the work as opposed to having to look up at the DRO.
Bob La Londe
--------------------------
A dial indicator on the carriage allows me to thread to a dead stop on
the lathe, usually to get close to a shoulder or the bottom of a blind
hole. Because the SB 10L has an easily exposed leather belt drive and
back gearing I can pull up the belt clutch to stop the spindle within a quarter turn of the end, shut off the motor, and then turn the belt on
the cone pulley by hand to feel the bit run up against the previous
chip. When done the chip stack can be chiseled out and filed smooth.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103uq0s$2br94$1@dont-email.me...
I use the foot brake for a lot of that sort of work. When I step
partway down it kills the motor, and the rest of the way engages a
mechanical brake. The only little hiccup, is my brain baulks at having
to turn the lever off and back on again, until my hand feels its already
on.
Bob La Londe
------------------------------------------
I agree that a modern industrial lathe is better if you can justify the investment. The obsolete ones with threaded spindles and leather belt
drives can still be useful in a home hobby shop, or to experiment and
invent if no longer to efficiently make a product for profit.
When I bought mine a few years back it was a little under 5 grand, now
its selling right at 9 grand.
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:103utuj$2cl0n$1@dont-email.me...
Matt would be glad to hear you call it that. The PM1440ELB is what I
would consider a heavy hobby or prosumer lathe. ...
Bob La Londe
------------------- Mitre had a company machine shop with modern
machines I could design for but not touch, (HLVH, Herco..) plus a
separate model shop with an assortment of vintage ones that I more or
less controlled, or at least maintained. Segway had a CNC lathe and mill
and a Smithy Granite for when the CNC was occupied. Thus I could
directly compare what could be done on both types and determine my
realistic minimum needs for home, which didn't include a mini lathe or
mill like I had in my lab. I was looking for a 9" SB but jumped on the
Heavy Ten and don't regret it. This is an available equivalent to the
old Clausing, a knee mill that can go where a Bridgeport won't. https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-8-x-30-1-1-2-hp-vertical-mill- with-power-feed/g0731
With sufficient attention both a 4x6 bandsaw and a 30" shear/brake/roll
have worked for me though I wouldn't blindly recommend the troublesome things. None of my stuff belongs in a modern commercial shop except for occasional repair jobs.
The common hobby project my machines are too small for is automotive
mods, I can't turn brake drums or rotors on the 10" lathe or easily
machine an engine to transmission adapter plate.
The mill is barely tall
enough to face or rebore an air compressor cylinder block.
It was an example of the major components well made in a factory and the minor ones in someone's cottage, poorly enough that filing improved
them.
Its Brown & Sharpe #7 collet size is almost identical to Morse #2,
max 1/2", but rarer, so I snapped up all the arbors etc that Wholesale
Tool had left.
On 7/1/2025 1:22 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
It was an example of the major components well made in a factory and the
minor ones in someone's cottage, poorly enough that filing improved
them.
I am sure you are aware that some of the old school apprenticeship
projects were to make precision tools with files. Making something
better by filing is only occasionally within my self taught skill set.
it is absolutely a reality in machining.
Its Brown & Sharpe #7 collet size is almost identical to Morse #2,
max 1/2", but rarer, so I snapped up all the arbors etc that Wholesale
Tool had left.
I have done much the same thing with KWIK 200. I particularly like the
Kwik 200 Accura-Flex collet chucks. Of course Kwik-200 was much more
popular being used in CNC machines by both Bridgeport and Hurco. I once >considered scrapping my Hurco, and sold off some of my tool holders, but
then later decided to rebuild it again. I of course had to buy back
some tool holders at a higher price. That was when I really discovered
the Acura-Flex collets and that I liked them even better than ER
collets. Then I acquired a second machine with a Kwik 200 spindle.
--
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
"Richard Smith" wrote in message news:m1qzyzowar.fsf@void.com...
Page on the job http://weldsmith.co.uk/tech/welding/weld_tales/231215_ybj_tpile_z5_z8.html
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They found the right man for the job.
I'm having trouble analyzing to learn from this. What is the load
direction on the inner ring that your weld must resist?
https://www.usatoday.com/story/travel/cruises/2025/06/17/celebrity-cruise-ship-breaks-moorings-alaska-juneau/84241831007/
"Richard Smith" wrote in message news:m1qzyzowar.fsf@void.com...
This topic has journey productively far from its start with "Outdoor Welding".
On that topic...
SMAW (Shielded Metal Arc Welding) - "stick" welding - is "the only one".
Okay I have never done / tried self-shielded flux-cored-wire.
* when you are outdoors, the equipment is too sensitive and expensive
for the rough-and-ready work typical of site work. eg. how well would
a wire-feeder do if splashed with seawater (?)
* the wire rusts then presumably won't feed - so presumably it can only
be used in site conditions when you have a "volume" job where you use
reels at a time
So it's "stick" welding for most site work.
------------------------------------ https://app.aws.org/forum/topic_show.pl?tid=1770
https://www.welderdestiny.com/oil-rig-welder.html
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:1043b3k$3hded$1@dont-email.me...
I'm having trouble analyzing to learn from this. What is the load direction on the inner ring that your weld must resist? ---------------------------------
More specifically I assume that if the inner ring bears weight the
upper weld could fail in tension (+shear?) across its throat area. The
lower weld might shear along the column so punch press math could
apply, or to the extent the fit is loose or the column can expand and
the ring shrink the shear could be along a shorter line angled toward
the weld throat. Does that make sense?
If the load is a mooring line I'd have to know how it's attached.
I have similar geometry in two recent projects, one a shop-made
stainless solar array thrust bearing with the ring retained in the
tube by a circle of screws, their inner ends turned smooth and loosely fitting in a groove in the ring. The load on the cap passes through
the races and balls to the ring below, so the outer tube is only
shielding.
The other is a thick sleeve with an integral ring inside threaded
internally. It adapts this to a non-HF floor jack. https://www.harborfreight.com/steel-floor-jack-cross-beam-64051.html
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