So I jumped on the interwebs to see what it would cost to replace ...
and there ain't no way in hell I'm going to drop 250 bucks for this part .
"Leon Fisk"Â wrote in message news:104glsm$2tkl8$1@dont-email.me...
On Sun, 6 Jul 2025 21:30:55 -0500
Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
<snip>
So I jumped on the interwebs to see what it would cost to replace ...
and there ain't no way in hell I'm going to drop 250 bucks for this
part .
Nice job!
I noted the price these electric clutches go for many years ago when
shopping for a "new" riding mower. Some have decreased since then but I question the quality nowadays...
I pop mine on once starting out, once more where I have to pass over a
rough gravely spot and then off when done (~2.5 hours). I cringe
listening to other people mowing with that clutch engaging/disengaging
every few minutes and knowing how much they cost😬
Leon Fisk
------------------------------------
The electric PTO mowing clutch on my heavily used ~1987 Sears GT18
garden tractor needed adjustment (like everything else) when I inherited
it but otherwise still works.
Many of the adjustments are much easier on a lift unless you are a teen
or contortionist. The owner lived on an island off the Maine coast, far
from Sears service or most other tokens of modern civilization as we
know it.
I saved on the clutch only to find the new in March fuel pump has died
. The original had replaceable check valves - if you could figure out
which ones you needed - these are molded into the plastic top section .
The outlet valve isn't closing and it's fuel starved . And that little >bastard wasn't cheap , 35 bucks plus and it fails in like 3 months .
I briefly considered mounting an "IV bottle" to gravity feed but
that's a bit too "country" even for me .
 The PTO clutch on my old JD 317 died recently , and today I got around
to figuring out why . The rivets that hold the clutch disk to the pulley assembly had vanished ! Wore plumb off down to nubbins is more like it .
So I jumped on the interwebs to see what it would cost to replace ...
and there ain't no way in hell I'm going to drop 250 bucks for this part .
 So I got to inspecting and figured out that I could machine some
rivets from a piece of hot rolled 1/2 inch mild steel . And it worked .
Got the assembly riveted back together and installed then headed for a
pile of brush to test it .
drives , but I frequently use it to clear underbrush -mostly vines and saplings under an inch in diameter - so I can get to dead/downed trees
for fire wood . Some of that duty will be going to the Yanmar ,
especially a couple of areas that are pretty open of heavy underbrush
and closely spaced trees. Rusty (the JD) does a good job of cutting a
path so I can drag out bigger pieces with The Gook (these machines were
built in 'Nam after our gov't stabbed us vets in the back) .
"Bob La Londe"Â wrote in message news:104h7sh$2mv7h$1@dont-email.me...
Like a lot of things, rivets (not pop rivets) used to intimidate me
until one day I peened a piece of steel rod into a rivet to hold
together some tongs. I've applied the "skill" to a few things since
then. A hammer is an even more useful tool than I thought.
Anyway, good job.
------------------------------------
In the blacksmithing class I learned some of the remarkable range of
things a smith can make with only a hammer and anvil, such as the lap-
joint tongs they use, and square cornered angle braces. Alexander
Weyger's book goes further to forging chisels with tapered sockets for
their handles.
The most remarkable hammer and anvil achievement is knights' armor. The curves can be formed by hammering over a depression in end grain wood or
a leather sandbag, as can repair panels for car fenders. The most
difficult panel I've made was for a rust-through where a rear inner
wheel well transitioned to a tapered shock mount tower, the thickest was
14 gauge steel formed into trumpet bells as the pivoting socket for
acorn cap feet on hoist legs.
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