No matter how large or small my shop space is always an issue. So what
big in the way things do you have that you only use occasionally, but
when you need them they are invaluable. For me there are a few. Cherry >picker, welding table, engine stand, pallet jack... almost every farm >implement in the yard. There are probably more, but these are always in
the way. I don't want to set stuff out by the canal, and some of it I
don't even want to leave outside. No point in having a hydraulic
anything if the ram is rusted and cuts your seals when you need it, but
its always in the way. I used both the pallet jack and the cherry picker
to set the new air compressor in place, but now they are in the way
again. FRACK!
On Sun, 13 Mar 2022 12:29:26 -0700You need a shed - something like a "pole barn" like we call "drive-in
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
No matter how large or small my shop space is always an issue. So what
big in the way things do you have that you only use occasionally, but
when you need them they are invaluable. For me there are a few. Cherry >>picker, welding table, engine stand, pallet jack... almost every farm >>implement in the yard. There are probably more, but these are always in
the way. I don't want to set stuff out by the canal, and some of it I
don't even want to leave outside. No point in having a hydraulic
anything if the ram is rusted and cuts your seals when you need it, but
its always in the way. I used both the pallet jack and the cherry picker
to set the new air compressor in place, but now they are in the way
again. FRACK!
Yup! Either have the stuff to do things but no room to do it... or
have the room to do stuff but nothing to do it with... It is a
conundrum and I have a severe problem with the prior ;-)
On Sun, 13 Mar 2022 12:29:26 -0700
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
No matter how large or small my shop space is always an issue. So what
big in the way things do you have that you only use occasionally, but
when you need them they are invaluable. For me there are a few. Cherry >>picker, welding table, engine stand, pallet jack... almost every farm >>implement in the yard. There are probably more, but these are always in
the way. I don't want to set stuff out by the canal, and some of it I
don't even want to leave outside. No point in having a hydraulic
anything if the ram is rusted and cuts your seals when you need it, but
its always in the way. I used both the pallet jack and the cherry picker
to set the new air compressor in place, but now they are in the way
again. FRACK!
Yup! Either have the stuff to do things but no room to do it... or
have the room to do stuff but nothing to do it with... It is a
conundrum and I have a severe problem with the prior ;-)
B-) "downsize!" I no longer have the room or the stuff to do
things with.
Oh well, I always was a sort of "old school" kind of guy.
On Mon, 14 Mar 2022 09:43:56 -0700
pyotr filipivich <phamp@mindspring.com> wrote:
<snip>
B-) "downsize!" I no longer have the room or the stuff to do
things with.
Oh well, I always was a sort of "old school" kind of guy.
The fire-in-the-belly is gone... but I still find some comfort in
knowing I have the "stuff" to make and fix things ;-)
On Mon, 14 Mar 2022 09:43:56 -0700
pyotr filipivich <phamp@mindspring.com> wrote:
<snip>
B-) "downsize!" I no longer have the room or the stuff to do
things with.
Oh well, I always was a sort of "old school" kind of guy.
The fire-in-the-belly is gone... but I still find some comfort in
knowing I have the "stuff" to make and fix things ;-)
"Snag" wrote in message news:t0o972$k2b$1@dont-email.me...
I just a few minutes ago finished machining some bushings for the
truck carb . Quadrajet primary throttle shaft was a bit loose . I'm
doing a total rebuild of the motor , and it's just one detail after
another . Fortunately I still have all my "stuff" - and still collectin' . -----------------
How do you figure the press fit and the shaft clearance?
"Snag" wrote in message news:t0o972$k2b$1@dont-email.me...
I just a few minutes ago finished machining some bushings for the truck carb . Quadrajet primary throttle shaft was a bit loose . I'm doing a
total rebuild of the motor , and it's just one detail after another . Fortunately I still have all my "stuff" - and still collectin' . -----------------
How do you figure the press fit and the shaft clearance?
"Snag" wrote in message news:t0p3o5$5ue$1@dont-email.me...
On 3/14/2022 4:15 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message news:t0o972$k2b$1@dont-email.me...
I just a few minutes ago finished machining some bushings for the
truck carb . Quadrajet primary throttle shaft was a bit loose . I'm
doing a total rebuild of the motor , and it's just one detail after
another . Fortunately I still have all my "stuff" - and still
collectin' .
-----------------
How do you figure the press fit and the shaft clearance?
A thou over on both , they don't need to be all that tight . I'm
going to put the bushings on a mandrel and do a light knurl on them .
Put a little loctite on before I press them home .
------------------
Do you do anything special to ensure that both bores are aligned?
I fortunately found cheap used 0.499" and 0.501" reamers that I extended
to guide them between two separated bushing locations. Without them I
don't know how I could have aligned both pairs of holes, which were the
frame and bucket pivots on my DIY front end loader.
On 3/15/2022 10:17 AM, Snag wrote:
. A couple of clamp dogs and Bob's yer Uncle .
I AM NOT!
On 3/15/2022 1:58 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 3/15/2022 10:17 AM, Snag wrote:
. A couple of clamp dogs and Bob's yer Uncle .
I AM NOT!
R2 R2 R2 !
I have decided to make another set of bushings . The ones you buy are .344" OD , which is fine . The ones I made first are .348" because that matches a drill bit that I have . But I think I want to go to .375" and
use an end mill to cut the pocket for the new bushing . Shorter , more
rigid , and most importantly more accurate hole size .
Or I could pop for the special reamer that costs 40 bucks and I'll probably only use once ... No , I got all these tools might as well use
'em .
On 3/15/2022 1:57 PM, Snag wrote:
On 3/15/2022 1:58 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 3/15/2022 10:17 AM, Snag wrote:
. A couple of clamp dogs and Bob's yer Uncle .
I AM NOT!
R2 R2 R2 !
I have decided to make another set of bushings . The ones you buy
are .344" OD , which is fine . The ones I made first are .348" because
that matches a drill bit that I have . But I think I want to go to
.375" and use an end mill to cut the pocket for the new bushing .
Shorter , more rigid , and most importantly more accurate hole size .
Or I could pop for the special reamer that costs 40 bucks and I'll
probably only use once ... No , I got all these tools might as well
use 'em .
Tangent alert!!!!!
I picked up a D-bit grinder a while back. I throw away empty end mill tubes, because the end mills go in a tool holder where they live out
their life. When they come out of a tool holder they go in a little
kitchen pot I have in the shop.
The pot is full of just scrap carbide. I though I might sell it some
day. Now I make things out of worn out and broken end mills.
I've used the D-bit grinder to make a fair number of things, but
recently I started making real tools with the D-Bit (Tool & Cutter) grinder. 10 degree dovetail cutter for making an insert blade holder. 7 degree taper mill for making insert lathe tooling, etc, etc.
I'm starting to get a small collection of these shop made carbide
cutters in the cart for my manual knee mill. So far I can still
remember the specs on most of them, but I know it won't be all that long before I pick up one of those shop made tools and have no clue what the
specs are much less what I made it for. Ever try to label carbide? LOL.
Now I'm really wishing I hadn't thrown all those end mill tubes away.
They hold labels or even just marker ink pretty well.
How I got there from here. Carbide D-bits make fair reamers if you can
get the cutting diameter right. Once you get that figured out you can
make any size you want. Maybe someday I'll be that good.
On 3/15/22 18:01, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 3/15/2022 1:57 PM, Snag wrote:
On 3/15/2022 1:58 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 3/15/2022 10:17 AM, Snag wrote:
. A couple of clamp dogs and Bob's yer Uncle .
I AM NOT!
R2 R2 R2 !
I have decided to make another set of bushings . The ones you buy
are .344" OD , which is fine . The ones I made first are .348"
because that matches a drill bit that I have . But I think I want to
go to .375" and use an end mill to cut the pocket for the new bushing
. Shorter , more rigid , and most importantly more accurate hole size .
Or I could pop for the special reamer that costs 40 bucks and I'll
probably only use once ... No , I got all these tools might as well
use 'em .
Tangent alert!!!!!
I picked up a D-bit grinder a while back. I throw away empty end mill
tubes, because the end mills go in a tool holder where they live out
their life. When they come out of a tool holder they go in a little
kitchen pot I have in the shop.
The pot is full of just scrap carbide. I though I might sell it some
day. Now I make things out of worn out and broken end mills.
I've used the D-bit grinder to make a fair number of things, but
recently I started making real tools with the D-Bit (Tool & Cutter)
grinder. 10 degree dovetail cutter for making an insert blade holder.
7 degree taper mill for making insert lathe tooling, etc, etc.
I'm starting to get a small collection of these shop made carbide
cutters in the cart for my manual knee mill. So far I can still
remember the specs on most of them, but I know it won't be all that
long before I pick up one of those shop made tools and have no clue
what the specs are much less what I made it for. Ever try to label
carbide? LOL.
Now I'm really wishing I hadn't thrown all those end mill tubes away.
They hold labels or even just marker ink pretty well.
How I got there from here. Carbide D-bits make fair reamers if you
can get the cutting diameter right. Once you get that figured out you
can make any size you want. Maybe someday I'll be that good.
Rabbit hole alert!!! :-)
I've never done this with tungsten carbide, but have you ever heard of labeling by electroetching? Basically you take something you want to
label and attach the positive lead from a low voltage DC power supply.
Stick on a stencil, then rub over the stencil with a negative electrode covered with a piece of cotton swab or felt and dripping with
electrolyte solution. With the correct electrolyte chemistry and
voltage you lightly etch the surface in seconds. Remove stencil and
wash off the electrolyte. If the contrast is good enough, you are done.
If not, the etched surface is rougher than the original surface and
will hold ink from a Sharpie.
I did some Googling and found a couple of hits worth a quick look. First
is a company that sells systems and electrolytes: https://www.trendmarking.com.au/metal-etching-systems.html They include
an electrolyte for "carbides" but don't say which ones and of course
give no ingredients for any of their stuff. They do have some good,
brief how-to info and videos. Second is a how-to video using salt and vinegar as the electrolyte, a 12V car jump start battery, and q-tips to
hold the electrolyte with stick-on stencils, marking sizes on
chrome-plated steel sockets: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILPQDXV_Rf0&ab_channel=TrendMarkingSystems
Years ago I played with marking mild steel and stainless with
basically this setup. It worked but I wanted some pretty small letters
and I'm much better at "functional" than "pretty" so I gave up working
with stencils pretty quickly :-).
I'd try following the setup in the second video on a piece of scrap
carbide, not bothering with a stencil. Just wet the q-tip and hold it
on the surface in one place and see if you get any reaction. If that doesn't work try a concentrated solution of baking soda and table salt,
but I think that is less likely to work. Maybe try some Oxyclean and
table salt dissolved in 3% hydrogen peroxide, with and without some
baking soda. Not sure what else around the house might work as an electrolyte.
Of course, if you had one of those 50-ish watt CO2 laser cutters you
should be able to laser mark it :-). Anyway, good luck.
No matter how large or small my shop space is always an issue. So what
big in the way things do you have that you only use occasionally, but
when you need them they are invaluable. For me there are a few. Cherry picker, welding table, engine stand, pallet jack... almost every farm implement in the yard. There are probably more, but these are always in
the way. I don't want to set stuff out by the canal, and some of it I
don't even want to leave outside. No point in having a hydraulic
anything if the ram is rusted and cuts your seals when you need it, but
its always in the way. I used both the pallet jack and the cherry picker
to set the new air compressor in place, but now they are in the way
again. FRACK!
Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
No matter how large or small my shop space is always an issue. So what
big in the way things do you have that you only use occasionally, but
when you need them they are invaluable. For me there are a few. Cherry
picker, welding table, engine stand, pallet jack... almost every farm
implement in the yard. There are probably more, but these are always in
the way. I don't want to set stuff out by the canal, and some of it I
don't even want to leave outside. No point in having a hydraulic
anything if the ram is rusted and cuts your seals when you need it, but
its always in the way. I used both the pallet jack and the cherry picker
to set the new air compressor in place, but now they are in the way
again. FRACK!
This may be your chance to buy a forklift! On the plus side, you
could stack stuff up to save floor space and could move equipment and
stock more easily. On the minus side, forklifts aren't free, and
there would be other costs in making the idea work, like shelving or a mezzanine, because of items that don't stack well without shelving.
While the forklift itself would take up floor space, it could park
under a mezzanine.
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:t11pnb$ikk$1@dont-email.me...
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t10p75$at1$1@dont-email.me...
I would love to have a fork lift. Yep, they are not free. ----------------------
I happened to stop at a couple of second-hand machinery dealers today. Compact manual lifts ran $2500 ~$3500 for electric pallet forklifts to
~$600 (half new price) for a hand truck with a hydraulic lift platform.
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message news:t11pnb$ikk$1@dont-email.me...
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t10p75$at1$1@dont-email.me...
I would love to have a fork lift. Yep, they are not free. ----------------------
I happened to stop at a couple of second-hand machinery dealers today. Compact manual lifts ran $2500 ~$3500 for electric pallet forklifts to
~$600 (half new price) for a hand truck with a hydraulic lift platform.
When the clerk asked how big and how high I guessed you wanted to lift a
mold on or off a milling machine table instead of a higher pallet rack. I
was looking for more 3" channel iron to extend my sawmill track and also inquired for you about the current street value of used manual and
electric lifts that can maneuver in tight spaces. I didn't mention that
you were in Arizona instead of local.
When the clerk asked how big and how high I guessed you wanted to lift a
mold on or off a milling machine table instead of a higher pallet rack. I
was looking for more 3" channel iron to extend my sawmill track and also inquired for you about the current street value of used manual and
electric lifts that can maneuver in tight spaces. I didn't mention that
you were in Arizona instead of local.
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