after 4-5 hours of using it, i've decided the blades are worn beyond >serviceability and need replaced. looking for replacement blades is
quite likely pointless so i'm not going to even bother trying.
this things has a stack of 3 what look like small lawn mower blades.
picked up a 50 year old Sears Shredder and Bagger. 3.5 HP. Little fucker
is in great shape. Ran some Seafoam in ethanol free fuel trough it
which cleared up carburation issues and runs great for an engine i
thought would need at least a carb rebuild when i bought it.
after 4-5 hours of using it, i've decided the blades are worn beyond serviceability and need replaced. looking for replacement blades is
quite likely pointless so i'm not going to even bother trying.
this things has a stack of 3 what look like small lawn mower blades.
what steel would you make the blades from? i could go with A2 or D2 tool steel heat treated to somewhere in the RC 50-60 hardness range. or even
M2 steel if i wanted to mulch metal fence posts, though the housing
around the blades may not be quite up to the task.
would pre hard 4140 be a decent choice? or would just some 1018 crs be suffice for chopping up small yard brush and leaves?
--
f...@sdf.org
SDF Public Access UNIX System - https://sdf.org
On Sunday, April 17, 2022 at 4:35:28 PM UTC-5, f...@sdf.org wrote:
picked up a 50 year old Sears Shredder and Bagger. 3.5 HP. Little fucker
is in great shape. Ran some Seafoam in ethanol free fuel trough it
which cleared up carburation issues and runs great for an engine i
thought would need at least a carb rebuild when i bought it.
after 4-5 hours of using it, i've decided the blades are worn beyond
serviceability and need replaced. looking for replacement blades is
quite likely pointless so i'm not going to even bother trying.
this things has a stack of 3 what look like small lawn mower blades.
what steel would you make the blades from? i could go with A2 or D2 tool
steel heat treated to somewhere in the RC 50-60 hardness range. or even
M2 steel if i wanted to mulch metal fence posts, though the housing
around the blades may not be quite up to the task.
would pre hard 4140 be a decent choice? or would just some 1018 crs be
suffice for chopping up small yard brush and leaves?
How about a quick hardface and 40 degree sharpening?
On 2022-04-19, wws <wsti...@gmail.com> wrote:You're welcome.
On Sunday, April 17, 2022 at 4:35:28 PM UTC-5, f...@sdf.org wrote:
picked up a 50 year old Sears Shredder and Bagger. 3.5 HP. Little fucker >> is in great shape. Ran some Seafoam in ethanol free fuel trough it
which cleared up carburation issues and runs great for an engine i
thought would need at least a carb rebuild when i bought it.
after 4-5 hours of using it, i've decided the blades are worn beyond
serviceability and need replaced. looking for replacement blades is
quite likely pointless so i'm not going to even bother trying.
this things has a stack of 3 what look like small lawn mower blades.
what steel would you make the blades from? i could go with A2 or D2 tool >> steel heat treated to somewhere in the RC 50-60 hardness range. or even
M2 steel if i wanted to mulch metal fence posts, though the housing
around the blades may not be quite up to the task.
it's been decades since i've had access to spray welding equipment andwould pre hard 4140 be a decent choice? or would just some 1018 crs beHow about a quick hardface and 40 degree sharpening?
suffice for chopping up small yard brush and leaves?
i've sold my stick welder since then too. completely slipped my mind. i
know a great fabrication shop that can do hardfacing for me. thanks for jogging my memory. this is the way to go. especially since the manual
calls the stack of blades a weldment which implies it's quite a bit of
work to replace the blades. if it's even possible. may have to build a
whole new assembly. thanks again.
--
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