My front porch light, motion activated, developed
a 'fault' long ago - one I *liked*.

The motion sensor did NOT cut off entirely.
This left the bulb running at like 25%
power all the time. IF motion, then it'd
go to 100%

This was actually GOOD.

Alas this fixture is OLD - and has now
trended towards "blinking" if the temp
goes below 50F.

Bought a new 2-bulb fixture. It's "dumb"
but I want to smarten it up.

My PLAN is to add a motion sensor, but
to ONLY one bulb. A rather low-watt
yellowish "bug bulb" will run ALL the
time. A bright 18-20 watt LED bulb will
be attached to the (added) motion
sensor.

Doesn't seem TOO hard.

I'm not adverse to weird wiring or
drilling holes in things.

BUT - any advice/notes ?

The choice of the add-on motion sensor
especially. Need nearly a 180-degree
sensitivity and a great service-life
profile.

Um, sorry, this doesn't need Linux or
micro-controllers or anything - just
real-world simple stuff. LONG life
is the goal.

--
033-33

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On 26/01/2025 13:21, Rich wrote:

186282@ud0s4.net <186283@ud0s4.net> wrote:

Alas this fixture is OLD - and has now trended towards "blinking" if
the temp goes below 50F.

Likely one bad capacitor on the board that loses its ability to store
charge in low temps. Given the 'blinking' it is most likely the
bootstrap cap. which allows the main supply regulator chip to start up
to power the "motion sensing" parts.

I had a TV once that needed a good slap to get the colour working.

I opened it up and found they had used EYELETS to form vias. None of
them were soldered.

I soldered a few and the colour came half back, Then the penny dropped,
and I soldered every single one on both sides of the boards.

The TV was flawless until it got a direct lightning strike.

It's the same with electrolytics of a certain age, and RIFA mains filter
caps. Justreplace the fucking lot.

Probably that fixes about half of all 'dead' electronics these days




--
Religion is regarded by the common people as true, by the wise as
foolish, and by the rulers as useful.

(Seneca the Younger, 65 AD)

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186282@ud0s4.net <186283@ud0s4.net> wrote:

Alas this fixture is OLD - and has now trended towards "blinking" if
the temp goes below 50F.

Likely one bad capacitor on the board that loses its ability to store
charge in low temps. Given the 'blinking' it is most likely the
bootstrap cap. which allows the main supply regulator chip to start up
to power the "motion sensing" parts.

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On Sun, 26 Jan 2025 04:07:10 -0500, 186282@ud0s4.net wrote:

The choice of the add-on motion sensor especially. Need nearly a
180-degree sensitivity and a great service-life profile.

I've been using these:

amazon.com/gp/product/B0CCF3HYT9

The sensing angle is about 100 degrees but you do get six of them along
with mounting brackets. Also the output is digital not analog. There are a number of other options but I think the all use the same sensor. It's adjustable for range and sensitivity.

https://learn.adafruit.com/pir-passive-infrared-proximity-motion-sensor/ overview

has information on how they work and some of the adjustments. The ones I
have are very close to Adafruit's new design. Follow the pages and there
is a simple diagram with batteries, the module, and a LED, no Arduino. You could do something like that but drive a FET to control the main LED.

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On 1/26/25 4:36 PM, rbowman wrote:

On Sun, 26 Jan 2025 04:07:10 -0500, 186282@ud0s4.net wrote:

The choice of the add-on motion sensor especially. Need nearly a
180-degree sensitivity and a great service-life profile.

I've been using these:

amazon.com/gp/product/B0CCF3HYT9

The sensing angle is about 100 degrees but you do get six of them along
with mounting brackets. Also the output is digital not analog. There are a number of other options but I think the all use the same sensor. It's adjustable for range and sensitivity.

https://learn.adafruit.com/pir-passive-infrared-proximity-motion-sensor/ overview

has information on how they work and some of the adjustments. The ones I
have are very close to Adafruit's new design. Follow the pages and there
is a simple diagram with batteries, the module, and a LED, no Arduino. You could do something like that but drive a FET to control the main LED.

Look nice - but this app is 120vac all the way.

Alas all the little ones are rated for 40w max, which
is fine if you stick to LED bulbs, but SOMEBODY might
stick a filament bulb in there someday.

About the physically smallest I came upon early is a
RAB Lighting SMS500W ... but it still uses a 1/2" hole
and would hang out under the light unit. We'll see.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VTRAQM?ref=emc_s_m_5_i_atc

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On Sun, 26 Jan 2025 18:52:18 -0500, 186282@ud0s4.net wrote:

Alas all the little ones are rated for 40w max, which is fine if you
stick to LED bulbs, but SOMEBODY might stick a filament bulb in there
someday.

https://www.amazon.com/ONEVER-Infrared-Activated-Replacement-Detector/dp/ B0C7Q4GK3M

That one claims 50W. If you're really paranoid you it to drive

amazon.com/Migro-Contactor-Replaces-Virtually-Residential/dp/B07YVMYBL8/

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On 1/26/25 7:56 PM, rbowman wrote:

On Sun, 26 Jan 2025 18:52:18 -0500, 186282@ud0s4.net wrote:

Alas all the little ones are rated for 40w max, which is fine if you
stick to LED bulbs, but SOMEBODY might stick a filament bulb in there
someday.

https://www.amazon.com/ONEVER-Infrared-Activated-Replacement-Detector/dp/ B0C7Q4GK3M

That one claims 50W. If you're really paranoid you it to drive

amazon.com/Migro-Contactor-Replaces-Virtually-Residential/dp/B07YVMYBL8/

There's only SO much room in the enclosure.

Some solid-state 'relays' are fairly small,
though still need to be heat-sunk.

For safety, I'll have to go with like a 300w capacity
minimum. You can still buy 200w A-series bulbs. They're
bright and very nice, but DO suck up the power and
get hot as Mex tamale shit.

There's tons of stuff for the electronics hobby market,
but for real-world line-connected there's not as much.

Gonna look around a bit more. Mouser ? Newark ?

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On 1/26/25 7:56 PM, rbowman wrote:

On Sun, 26 Jan 2025 18:52:18 -0500, 186282@ud0s4.net wrote:

Alas all the little ones are rated for 40w max, which is fine if you
stick to LED bulbs, but SOMEBODY might stick a filament bulb in there
someday.

https://www.amazon.com/ONEVER-Infrared-Activated-Replacement-Detector/dp/ B0C7Q4GK3M

That one claims 50W. If you're really paranoid you it to drive

amazon.com/Migro-Contactor-Replaces-Virtually-Residential/dp/B07YVMYBL8/

Due to forger probs elsewhere, I may need to
add "WokieSux" to my name/address ... so don't
be surprised :-)

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On Sun, 26 Jan 2025 22:56:08 -0500, 186283@ud0s4.net wrote:

There's tons of stuff for the electronics hobby market,
but for real-world line-connected there's not as much.

I'm lazy.

amazon.com/gp/product/B01JIYYNWY

It takes 3 D cells and they last a long time it the raccoons don't hold a square dance on the deck. I first bought one to try to dissuade the coons
but they like to see what they're eating and thanked me for the improved ambiance. Then as the days got shorter I realize it was a lot handier than fumbling with the lock like I'd been doing for 30 years. The cat has
worked out the coverage and seldom triggers it.

When the batteries are getting weak it triggers repeatedly which is as
good as an additional low battery indicator. I had one of those on a LED flashlight and it earned its keep by draining the battery so it could show
how well it was doing its job. later iterations of the flashlight skipped
that 'feature'.

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On 1/27/25 1:04 AM, rbowman wrote:

On Sun, 26 Jan 2025 22:56:08 -0500, 186283@ud0s4.net wrote:

There's tons of stuff for the electronics hobby market,
but for real-world line-connected there's not as much.

I'm lazy.

amazon.com/gp/product/B01JIYYNWY

It takes 3 D cells and they last a long time it the raccoons don't hold a square dance on the deck. I first bought one to try to dissuade the coons
but they like to see what they're eating and thanked me for the improved ambiance. Then as the days got shorter I realize it was a lot handier than fumbling with the lock like I'd been doing for 30 years. The cat has
worked out the coverage and seldom triggers it.

When the batteries are getting weak it triggers repeatedly which is as
good as an additional low battery indicator. I had one of those on a LED flashlight and it earned its keep by draining the battery so it could show how well it was doing its job. later iterations of the flashlight skipped that 'feature'.

That product number brings up a LED flashlight
in the USA :-)

Yea, I could BUILD something out of parts, but
not sure my insurance company would be very
understanding. They expect certified components
dedicated to the exact task at hand. Fascism.
Strictly, my whole lighting unit AS A WHOLE is
UL Certified - but not any mods.

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WokieSux282@ud0s4.net <WokieSux283@ud0s4.net> wrote:

On 1/27/25 1:04 AM, rbowman wrote:

On Sun, 26 Jan 2025 22:56:08 -0500, 186283@ud0s4.net wrote:

There's tons of stuff for the electronics hobby market,
but for real-world line-connected there's not as much.

I'm lazy.

amazon.com/gp/product/B01JIYYNWY

That product number brings up a LED flashlight
in the USA :-)

If you paste the url fragment above into the url bar, you are taken to
the amazon page for "Beams MB360XT 200 Lumen Wireless Battery Operated
Powered Motion Sensing LED Spotlight, 2-Pack, Brown" lights in the US.
Which is not a "flashlight" -- as in not portable/handheld.

Yea, I could BUILD something out of parts, but not sure my
insurance company would be very understanding. They expect
certified components dedicated to the exact task at hand.

Common misconception propagated by internet trolls who don't know
better (or do, and want to propagate it anyway). Read your detailed
legalise packet, you likely won't find anything of the sort.

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On Mon, 27 Jan 2025 01:36:10 -0500, WokieSux282@ud0s4.net wrote:

That product number brings up a LED flashlight in the USA

Interesting. I get

"Beams MB360XT 200 Lumen Wireless Battery Operated Powered Motion Sensing
LED Spotlight, 2-Pack, Brown"

along with the information that I purchased them in January 2023. I bought
the first one at the local Ace Hardware but they were out of stock when I
went back.

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