Paul I need to ask you a couple of questions.
Thanks,
Robert
The 8500 hung up again with loud buzzing.
I pressed the start button a couple of times and
it took forever to respond. It finally came back
up but it didn't seem right so I restarted it but it
just hung there and I was forced to power it off/on.
I selected normal startup and came back up with no
issues.
I had only 3 windows open in FF when it hung up. I
also I detected this maleware .
https://postimg.cc/mzFJ78V1
Isn't version 3.1 the update to FF ? That's the only
thing I've downloaded.
I would really like your assistance to put my bookmarks
and data on the 780 while we still can.
Thanks,
Robert
I ran mrimg backups in both the 780 and the 8500.
So how do I go about transferring my bookmarks
and data from the 8500 to the 780?
Once finished I'll order the 6TB external hd and
case. I'd appreciate it if you could help me set it
up.
Thanks,
Robert
l
The 8500 seems normaI at present with no issues.
I'm running another mrimg since the Iast one had
the maIeware on it. Do you think it's the RAMM that
was overIoaded? I'II teII you that buzzing sound
was unnerving.
I used Avast to remove the maIeware fiIe :
C:\Users\RB\Downloads\App_version 3.1.msi
FF is up to date, I'm running version 115.3.1esr (64 bit)
I wasn't auto-updating so I haven't seen any notifications.
I ran through the bookmark tab to find aII the functions
as you describe.
I'm not sure I understand the process I'm suppose to do?
Am I Exporting to htm and do I put it on a USB key then
import it to the 780?
It appears I'm copy/pasting the bookmarkbackups and
My Documents using the mrimg to the 780, correct?
Thanks,
Robert
I tried extracting again:
https://postimg.cc/HJxwXqwv
I must be doing something wrong.
Robert
I tried navigating to the folder to extract the zip file but I don't
know how to proceed? What am I suppose to do with this ISO file?
I thought it would download a memory test program to test the memory?
https://postimg.cc/yDSkrFv5
https://postimg.cc/grJcTV0D
Thanks,
Robert
I'll also need another 6TB HD and case.
https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st6000dm001-6tb/p/N82E16822178783
https://www.newegg.com/vantec-nst-387s3-bk-enclosure/p/N82E16817392118
Usually we make the hd drives bootable but if I
remember correctly I just created a folder for
the 8500 mrimgs and nothing else on the 6TB
external hd. So I think I should do the same for
the 780 but with no OS how is that possible?
I can't remember how we set up the 6TB hd.
Robert
I successfully exported my bookmarks to the 780.
I went into bookmarks>manage bookmarks>import and backup>export bookmarks to HTML
then on the 780 I went to bookmarks>manage bookmarks> import and backup> import bookmarks from HTML
It all seems to be there.
Wasn't there some other file you wanted me to move over? Oh the data file, what was that called? and where? Then I can mount the external hd and move
my entire My Documents with copy/paste correct? or is there another method you
recommend?
Thanks,
Robert
I already moved my email over to the 780 so it's OK.
We can make the 6TB bootable and maybe that's what
we did last time for the other 6TB?
I ran a Memtest on the 780 with 1 pass, no errors.
I also attached the 6TB external hd with the 8500 mrimgs
to the 780 and tried to change the drive letter.
https://postimg.cc/rdcy38rZ
https://postimg.cc/647Bnqkq
What am I doing wrong?
Even though I successfully exportd the bookmarks to the 780
I'm still not following what your saying here. I don't see these
files.
"Bookmarks, Downloads and Browsing History
places.sqlite
This file contains all your Firefox bookmarks and lists of files you have downloaded
and of websites you have previously visited. For more information, see Bookmarks in Firefox.
favicons.sqlite
This file stores website favicon images. It's best to also include this file when
recovering the places.sqlite file.
also this:
"Data", would be your Downloads folder, where ever you
placed your Bookmarks file, and perhaps if you wanted,
the profile for Firefox. Your email tool might have a
profile folder as well.
So your saying I should copy/paste my Downloads folder
to the 780? How could I place my 8500 profile on the 780
and what would be the advantages of doing that?
Thanks,
Robert
After thinking about it we must have made the 6TB hd a bootable drive because that's
what you would of recommended and what we have been doing all along. I just forgot the procedure for cloning it but the procedure has changed some and is very
automatic now with only a few steps for mrimg backups so I assume cloning has also
changed. I remember I have to put it inside the 780 and let it boot.
I don't have any favorite tools per se except the Dell Image Expert 2000,Word, Excel
and of course all the antivirus and maleware e.g., Avast, SuperAntiSpware, Malewarebytes, Spywareblaster but I worry about having up to date downloads for them. You know my history. Maybe you should review my links for each to see
if they are OK.
Avast- https://www.avast.com/installation-files#pc
Avast removal - https://www.avast.com/uninstall-utility#pc
Malewarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/
SuperAntispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/
SpywareBlaster - http://www.brightfort.com/
They are already installed on the 780 except Word and Excel. I have the original CD's
that came with the 8200 but apparently I could only use it (3) times which I've done
because they won't load on the 780. I really need Word and Excel on the 780 if I ever
loose the 8500. Is there some way of doing it?
Robert
I forgot,
HD-Tune - http://www.hdtune.com/download.html (click on the trial to download?)
AdwCleaner - https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/adwcleaner/
Imgeburn- http://www.oldversion.com/windows/imgburn-2-5-0-0
Agent Ransack - https://www.mythicsoft.com/agentransack/download/
GeForce Drivers - https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/drivers/
Microsoft - https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download
I'm missing a VLC player download, could you please provide one?
Thanks,
Robert
I meant I was able to install Word and Excel on the 780
of course.
Now all I need is to get the mrimg to work so I can move
'My Documents' to the 780. I have allot of data in there
including my Excel files. That's where I store everything.
When I try right clicking the mrimg drive or Mrimg itself it
doesn't give me the Explore option as in your instructions
it gives me Open. So I can't change the drive letter to K:
What am I doing wrong?
I was denied access.
Thoughts/suggestions,
Robert
I don't understand, I was in the Administrator Account
trying to access the User Account and it still denied me.
Could the problem be sharing? It says not shared.
https://postimg.cc/0KJQB0Kv
Robert
I've successfully transferred My Documents and the bookmarks
to the 780 with your good help but I still need to unmount K:
and L: drives from the 6TB external hd.
It's weird that the drop down box didn't have the 'Browse for image
or backup file to restore' option. However I found it lower on the screen
in a box on the right and that's how I gained access. but the K: and L: drives are still unmounted and I need to use another letter to dismount
them. I'll give it another try but so far it's not giving me the Macrium option when I right click the drives?
I'll try again and let you know how it goes.
Are there any other tests you want me to do with regard to the
humming from the 8500? It hasn't happened since but I was
just wondering.
I'll order the 6TB hd and case Wed and should be here in a week
or so.
Thanks,
Robert
I got the 780 out of the not responding state then
I tried dismounting the K: drive by right clicking but
when I do it says Open, Properties, Refresh
What's going on ? Why did mine change? I did all this
before and it was OK?
I successfully transferred 'My Documents' but they went
to the Administrator's Account so I'm copy/pasting it again
to the User Account. 3 hrs 30 mins,.. that's the same amount
of time it takes for the mrimgs for the 8500.
Should I try browsing again to see if I can dismount the K:
and L: drives? It's weird it doesn't say Macrium when I right click
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
I tried it again and again it didn't give me the option
but I see it in the middle of the page where the arrow is.
That's what I clicked on but when I got to the point of
changing drives to unmount K: and L: they were there !?
How could they be there if I didn't unmount them previously?
https://postimg.cc/5XGgfwbX
https://postimg.cc/JDQjHJVc
Also when I brought over 'My Documents this popped up
but I just closed it.
https://postimg.cc/KkQg82B0
Robert
I tried again with another Rescue CD but it gave me
the same thing.
https://postimg.cc/NL1jP09m
Why and how did it change? The first time I did it it
had the browse for image as you describe and all
went well but now it's gone?
I do see it in another part of the screen, center of the
page and another lower right but we can't use either?
So how do I fix this?
Thanks
Robert
There's also another problem per se on the 8500.
Sometimes it seems to lag loading programs. Like
a YouTube video. Sometimes it takes forever to
load a page and I'll have to reload it to get it to go.
Other times I get this page:
https://postimg.cc/SnGpBYdB
Sometimes this is probably caused by me leaving the
computer sitting for too long while I take a break but
once going it shouldn't have these problems should it?
Robert
I was using the Rescue CD to do this so I tried it
by just opening Macrium and there was the prompt.
This is how I must of done it before but for some
reason I started using the Rescue CD which changed it.
However the K: and L: were there? How could they
be there if I didn't un-mount them?
https://postimg.cc/w1yPwMmS
https://postimg.cc/DSXjqDVh
https://postimg.cc/Cdxcvdym
https://postimg.cc/kVCcWgFN
Robert
So if I want to copy/paste a file from the mrimgs
I do not use the Rescue CD. I use it only to create
clone, and restore, correct?
I ordered the 6TB hd and case and should be
here in a week or so.
Once I get the 6TB hd I clone it and then put it
inside the 780 to boot. Making it a boot-able hd,
correct?
By nodes do you mean the actual address of
interested sites e.g. www.example.com?
In passing, I noticed I have a Apple Software
Update on the 780 which I don't have on the
8500. There's also SequoiaView which if I
remember correctly you used it to find that
huge program that was eating up GB's when
the 780 should of been like 50GB it was like
350GB.
Should I remove these programs?
I got this screen again and I had just logged on.
https://postimg.cc/pmzZpCXy
Robert
nslookup righteouswarriors.com
ping 208.180.89.69
I removed the Apple programs from the 780 but kept
SequoiaView. You never know, I may need it again.
Hopefully, we can get the 6TB hd up and running before
Nov 1 for the mrimgs.
Robert
I have my 6 TB hd and now just waiting for the case.
Then I'll try cloning it.
Here's your instructions for cloning but as I say
they have automated the mrimg backups allot so I
think it may be the same with cloning.
https://postimg.cc/ft67JpfL
<some snipped for brevity>
https://postimg.cc/yDqzKygy
I typed somesite.com and this is what it showed:
https://postimg.cc/SXPKWz1T
It's interesting you looked up Righteous Warriors,
It was started by someone I use to know and I was
surprised it still was up. I tried contacting him but
never got a reply.
I barely am understanding you with the IPV4 and
IPV6 addresses. I'm trying to follow along.
Is there anything you want me to do? Run any
tests?
Thanks,
Robert
I have the set of instructions for cloning
when you initially gave them to me.
I accidentally clicked on the Syslinux
download on the 8500 but deleted it
afterwards.
I don't understand, we never went through
all of this with the other 6TB hd as I remember.
Maybe we didn't make it boot-able? They weren't
meant to be after all they are external drives.
Let me ask a question. As it is now, once I
get the case for it could I create a folder on
the 6TB hd for mrimgs without a OS? If
so, I think that's what I did with the other 6TB
because that's actually all I see on my other 6TB
hd. Just a folder that says 8500 mrimgs, nothing
else.
Here's the pics, I hope I did it right:
https://postimg.cc/PpDx6pj2
I typed run : diskmgmt.msc
https://postimg.cc/87Cz2nGF
https://postimg.cc/YjkGXRvF
Robert
And absolutely, if you want to make the 6TB into a single Data partition
6TB long, you can do that. Windows 7 supports GPT disks with 6TB partitions, no problem, as a place for the output from backup software.
I tried again and did diskmgmt.msc on the 780
to verify that the 780 could see the un-allocated
partition before I attempted to clone it.
https://postimg.cc/7CYScH0G
However, it did the same as before and did not see
it. How can I clone it if it doesn't see it? How did we
set up the other 6TB hd? I must be doing something
wrong.
https://postimg.cc/njMFN53G
https://postimg.cc/PNgXFSY1
https://postimg.cc/jLYThLYX
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Would it be possible to add RAMM to the 780?
Are the black slots at the top for RAMM ?
https://postimg.cc/gXBCMmbF
If so how much would they cost and what kind?
I would have to wait till the end of the month to do
this.
What do you think?
Robert
What did you mean by building new media?155075802957_20717494264&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=678789797442&wl4=pla-2234362938896&wl5=1014127&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113945645&wl11=online&wl12=22394341_5787&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjw7oeqBhBwEiwALyHLM5UDHynxvin3w7Lej-cSne9YcqQm_08Ajn_Z-UHatjfbr_
I thought maybe we could upgrade the 780 from 2.0 USB ports (black)
to 3.0 USB ports (Blue) but it doesn't seem like I would be able
because on the front with the USB ports it also has plug- ins for mic and headphones although I don't use either. Similar to this configuration:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Restored-Dell-780-Desktop-PC-with-Intel-Core-2-Duo-Processor-4GB-Memory-1TB-Hard-Drive-and-Windows-10-Pro-Monitor-Not-Included-Refurbished/22394341?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=5787&adid=2222222222722394341_5787_
Here's a shot inside the 780
https://postimg.cc/njvyX9xC
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
We've moved the bookmarks and 'My Documents'
to the 780 and installed Word and Excel, and created
a simple volume of the 6TB external HD so it's now
functional, all with your good help.
I'm not forgetting your elegant solution for the start
switch for the 8500 with no soldering! I hid the switch
behind a faux optical drive panel so it keeps it clean and
out of sight. Now it starts all the time.
Before we may get cut off, I want to say thank you for
all you've done. You've helped me allot over the years
and built my entire backup system and helped me select
the 780.
What do you think about upgrading the 780 RAMM and
USB ports from 2:0 to 3.0? Is it possible?
What do you recommend I do at this point?
Many Thanks for all your good help,
Robert
I went and ordered the PCI card and RAM
so that would give me 12GB of RAM in the
780. The same as the 8500.
Robert
You would use the PCI Express black slot at the bottom of the Optiplex 780
Are you talking about the card where the fan is?
I thought that was my video card? I seem to remember you selected that card for me.
I don't use any ipads or iphones,.. in fact my phone is the old fashion landline type.
I don't really have any projects in mind I just thinking of upgrading if you think
it would help or because I may not be able to later on because of scarcity of available
parts but as you say I won't see any real improvement. I always thought more RAMM
made browsing faster?
It is sad all of our jobs and manufacturing has been off-shored to China
and elsewhere and they've been stealing our intellectual property for decades.
What's even more shocking is we let them get away with it. We built China's military complex.
So should I just stay with just what I have on the 780? and not mess with it? It sounds like I shouldn't and should leave well enough alone. I don't want to be
messing around with the 780 Bios for 3.0.
The mrimg backups for the 8500 usually take about 3 1/2 hours because I have so
much data in My Documents.
One last problem, I have a 8GB Sandisk with a folder I want to cut/paste to get the
files off so I can re-use the disk but it doesn't let me where before it had? All it lets
me do now is copy/paste. So how can I delete the folder? I have a 32 GB Sandisk that
I can cut/paste with no problem.
Thanks,
Robert
I also wanted to let you know that recently
whenever I post a message I get a pop-up asking
if I'm a robot? So maybe I am being flagged
and that's why you can't see my posts?
https://postimg.cc/1gXB6MGk
This never happened before when I posted.
Robert
To be honest, I didn't think about the configuration when I ordered
the RAM from your link you gave. I just assumed everything
would be OK and there's only 2 PCI slots for RAM that I can use.
These are what I ordered:
https://www.newegg.com/crucial-8gb-240-pin-ddr3-sdram/p/N82E16820156050
Here's my 780 specs:
https://postimg.cc/XZz4JJgf
inside the 780
https://postimg.cc/njvyX9xC
Robert
Should I defrag the computer using system tools? I
haven't done it in quite awhile
I would appreciate it if you could briefly take a look
at the folders/files on my Patriot sticks to see if I
should keep any or delete them?
# 1 Patriot
seems to be my bookmarks and an ISO for creating Rescue CD's (2022)
https://postimg.cc/ykYkGwHD
#2 Patriot
780 Rescue Disk - another ISO, Autoruns., Boot, Drivers, EFI -
has the same boot screens as in Boot folder, (mrimg, backup, clone) are
your instructions you gave me previously. SequioaView, Sources - boot-wim, Autoruns, misc files,..
https://postimg.cc/k6m5vHsX
Inside Boot folder
https://postimg.cc/v4ZfW4BS
#3 Patriot
Agent Ransack and misc files, most seem related to SequioaView
https://postimg.cc/CZV03qqc
Also I can't seem to find my instructions for creating Rescue CD's.
Could you please provide them again for me? Also how do I create
a Rescue CD from an ISO?
Thanks,
Robert
Not my USB stick , my Sandisk 8GB SD card. Maybe I activated
some sort of read-only protection on the digital camera by accident?
I asked Google how to cut/paste on the right only Sandisk and this
is what it gave:
Disable write protection using command line (CMD)
1. Connect your write protected SD card to your computer.
2. Right Click on Start.- (right clicking only opens properties and Windows Explorer)
3. Type diskpart and hit Enter.
4. Type list disk and hit Enter. …
5. Type select disk . …
6. Type attributes disk clear readonly and press Enter.
Should I try this?
So is that the reason why you're not seeing my posts? Because of the Google groups spamming problem or is it more of a control problem like they had at Twitter and probably Facebook and the rest?
I'll install the PCI card and RAM when it arrives but I was asking since the 780
has no slots for SD cards could we provide one? or as an alternative do they make
adapters that plug into the USB ports with different sizes of slots for SD cards to
plug into?
Thanks,
Robert
p.s. where do I get the ISO file to create a Rescue CD?
and then the procedure to create one?
Thanks,
Robert
I thought I lost you ! whew!
I haven't got the RAM yet but I have the PCI 3.0 card
and will install both when I get the RAM. I thought it
would be here by now.
So the white slots are for the RAM? OK, got it.
Yes, I noticed the slot in the RAM when I bought it
and on the white slots. so it should be easy What are
the two large black slots at the top for? and just out of
curiosity what are the blue and red things on the right
side?
Inside 780:
https://postimg.cc/XXVDW6sz
I'll un-plug the 780 and remove all the connections
before I open it. I do have a strap, again thanks to you.
I'll run a memtest CD after I power it back up.
I think I'll skip the SD read only disk problem,.... I have enough
on my plate. I'll just buy another SD disk and I have others that
work fine.
It's true the 780 doesn't have a card reader on the front
but there are two empty face plates, one is normal size but
the other one is smaller. However, I like the card reader you picked
with the USB connection. So I'll get the Startech.
I deleted all the files off the Patriot #3 USB stick so it's all clean
I de-fragged both computers and the8500 seems quicker but there's
still a lag problem at times. Should I also do Disk-Clean-up and use
the defaults?
Most importantly, I still need your instructions on how to create
Rescue CD's and how to create Rescue CD from an ISO and how
to burn CD's on image burn. I really need these.
I think you already answered how to burn a CD from an ISO file
by right click it. but I don't seem to have instructions on how to
create a Rescue CD.
Hopefully, the RAM will arrive today and will let you know how it
goes after I install it and run the memtest CD.
Many Thanks,
Robert
OK, I followed the steps up to selecting PE10
but if I understand you correctly you want me
to do this after I install the PCI 3.0 card, correct?
Correct me if I'm wrong but is PE10 a ISO that
you want me to use on a 2.0 port to see if it boots
the 780 to check and verify the 3.0 port is working?
My question is will this make the previous Rescue
CD's obsolete because of the new drivers added by
doing this?
Robert
I'm confused as far as step 1,2,3 I open create Rescue media and then?
Do I select Advanced options then PE10, then OK, then build?
I'm not fully understanding putting Macrium on the Patriot USB stick?
How do I do it? Do you mean put the ISO file on the stick? It sounds if
I do this it will make all my other Rescue CD's useless. This is just for
the 780 right to verify that the 3.0 is working ?
I have a blank USB key I can use.
btw I had that Win 11 pop-up again. I forget while I was doing. I
just closed it again.
Robert
I was following you about putting Macrium (WinPE 10)
on the Patriot Drive but you lost me on how were going to
convince the 780 to boot from it?
Also should I do the same to the 8500 and be using
WinPE10? If so, then it would make all my current Rescue
CD's obsolete. That's what you meant about creating new
media, new Rescue CD's from the ISO.
Yes, I will try and create a Macrium media after the USB3
card is installed in the 780 and we can go from there. I'll keep
you posted and let you know how everything goes of course.
I think I do have a 2022 version of Macrium on one of the
Patriot keys. That's why I wanted you to look at them but
that isn't WinPE10. It seems to me that I'm going to have to
make a whole new batch of Rescue CD's for both computers
so they are both WinPE10.
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Here's a summary of upcoming procedures when the RAM arrives;
1. install RAM and PCI card with mini disk
2. run memtest CD
3. create macrium media (WinPE 10) - use 2.0 port to boot from
how will 780 see it?
4. create Rescue CD's from ISO - procedure?
This has nothing to do with the computers per se but was weird,
I have a Sony DSC-TX20 camera but when I tried to use it,
it says the SD card is locked but it's not locked. I tried another
SD card and it said the same thing but when I tried it in another
camera it was ok? I don't get it? It was fine yesterday.
What's weird is that when I put the read only SD card in it, it
worked fine although I still can't can't/paste to delete the folder/files
but then when I put the non- working SD card back in the camera it
worked as usual as if nothing happened! Talk about off the wall.
I picked up (2) more 32 GB Lexar SD cards as extra's at Staples today
they didn't have Sandisk's.
Robert
After I ran SuperAntiSyware scan the Explorer 11 popped up
up again.
https://postimg.cc/CRCn3jMX
https://postimg.cc/CdH1LFpn
I tried posting this on the 780 but it just hung there after I clicked
I'm not a robot but it didn't have a OK box and I tried several times
with the same result. So I ended up having to take pics and post this
on the 8500 instead.
Isn't there some way of stopping this? As I said, I have (2) bootable
hd's with Win 10 so I don't need or want this. I prefer Win 7 Pro.
Robert
I believe we did add a video card because
you selected the card with the fan on it and
I remember installing it.
We don't have to worry about Win 11 pop-up
I have (2) spare bootable Win 10 hd's that we
made when they still offered the free upgrade
and you advised I do it so I did for both computers.
You lost me, you said when I use the macrium cd
and do a bare metal restore. I thought by using macrium
were not metal to metal?
I still do not understand how I am going to boot from
the USB once the build for PE10 is finished?
If I understand you correctly I plug the external
hd in the 3.0 port for backups and the USB with
the PE10 in the 2.0 port and then ?
So I should make new Rescue CD's (PE10) for both
computers so they are both compatible. It seems so.
Robert
I have bootable replacement hd's with Win 7
and with Win 10 for both computers that you
helped me to set up. remember?
All I do now is use the Rescue CD for mrimg
backups.
Ok,, so press F2 to change the boot order and
F12 if I need to manually select it. I actually have
to do this on the 8500 because for some reason
it doesn't see the CD. I believe we tried to change
the boot order but it won't let us.
The 780 cannot see the 3.0 port because it's data only,
correct and the 2.0 port is for booting (USB)
I put the Macrium USB stick into the 780 and restarted
it and pressed F12 (it took forever!) but it didn't read it.
Here's pic's of the Patriot before, completed and after
I tried it. There's nothing on it. How can that be?
https://postimg.cc/wRtqZLqs - before
https://postimg.cc/5YXW2JZh - PE10 completed
https://postimg.cc/B8wRyyXM - after, nothing on Patriot
During the process it gave me the option of running tests
so I did. I'll send you pics when it's done.
Robert
I do not even want to try and click anything on IE11. I
don't want to go down that road and you know my history
better than anyone. Knowing my luck it would start IE11
and screw everything up.
It's easier to just close it but what I am to do then? So far
FF is OK but your saying at some point it may not be?
In passing I thought I would let you know I presently use
the USB 2.0 port on the 780 for my external hd but I guess
you assumed that.
It's when I add the 3.0 port that it changes,
Robert
I keep forgetting things to tell you,. but when working in Word I've
noticed recently that I also get a GDI window with the Word icon
as if two windows are open. Why is that happening? Same thing
as IE11?
This isn't where it normal is of course.
https://postimg.cc/hzP3XKwD
Robert
I just tried to send a test message with the 780
and it still will not post it. after checking I'm not
a robot it just hung there and the OK box did not
appear.
So what am I to do if I need to post from the 780?
Robert
After I made the PE120 Rescue CD I tried
the Patriot again but it says missing operating
system.
https://postimg.cc/w3NkZg6t
https://postimg.cc/zL3Cj1tG
https://postimg.cc/WdYrtHNL
https://postimg.cc/4KhKy42V
Robert
So are you saying next time the IE11 pops up to disconnect
the internet enable and then select the defaults for IE11 and
then what? I would need your step by step instructions to do
that. Do you recommend I do this? Of course, I always have
the mrimgs to restore it but I would hate to screw up the 8500
when its working OK and the 780 can't post to Google Groups
so I would be left in the dark on my own.
I would rather not mess with the booting order, that isn't the problem.
The problems as I see them are
1. the 780 can't post to Google groups
2. the Patriot completes the WinPE10 download successfully but
it won't boot macrium when I select USB device. It says it's missing operating sys. and I checked that it was active before I started.
3. install RAM and PCI card and run mini disk
4. run memtest 86
The only thing about using the F12 on the 780 it takes for ever,.. on
the 8500 it doesn't take much at all. So I much prefer using the Rescue
CD's than the Patriot.
So if the BIOS doesn't know about the PCI card does that mean my
previous mrimgs will still work? even with a different PE? I wouldn't
think so.
I found the FF folder in Programs as you describe. So it's 64 bit
I'm a bit iffy about loosing my bookmarks. I opened up the command
prompt and typed cd program files, but said it couldn't find specified files.
As I said I took a screen shot of my profile number and saved it in a folder.
Robert
I did select the Patriot icon in the background but it didn't work.
As I said I don't even wan to go down the IE11 path, even is I
disconnect the internet it's full of hazards and pitfalls and I don't
have your expertise to deal with it. I like FF but if at some point
it becomes a problem I have my Win 10 bootable HD's
https://postimg.cc/mtRLYFrD
I've said all along that I have spare Win 2 pro backup hd's but I
checked and I think I used them to create Win 10 hd's. So the one's highlighted in red are possible candidate for cloning. The WD is
a good drive but too noisy. I still may have to buy (2) new hd's for
this after were all done.
I would rather not change the boot order on the 780, it's working fine.
It's the 8500 that's messed up and we can't change it. More importantly
the 780 can't post to Google Groups.
I must be doing something wrong. Every time I type about: in the URL
it gives me the definition?
Yes, I'm using 64 bit version,
Here you lost me:
If, upon starting the new Firefox, you have no Bookmarks, don't panic.
The browser has more than one Profile folder.
In a Command Prompt window (un-elevated is fine), you could do:
c:
cd Program Files
cd Mozilla Firefox # cast a weather eye at this level, for the word "Firefox" firefox.exe -p
and that will start up the Firefox Profile Manager. It might show
its empty profile selected, whereas you want to change the selection
to whatever profile is used in the browser this moment.
I made a screen shot of the FF profile. So I have the number.
The GDI isn't always there but I just noticed it and was wondering about it. It's no big deal I just close it.
I never got to the macrium screen with the Patriot. The build completed successfully then I restarted the 780 and selected USB Device. At first it said the date and time were wrong so I corrected it in settings, then it gave me the Missing operating system.
I'm not playing around with exe files when I don't know what I'm doing. You know my history and we have enough on our plate as it is. I really don't think
it's worth our time and effort to get the patriot to work when the Rescue CD does.
It seems things are getting more complex and the about: didn't work but about:profiles does.
Thoughts, Suggestions?
Robert
I think until we get the 780 to post on Google Groups I'd rather not
mess with the 8500. We can mess with the 780 but if something
happened to the 8500 I'd loose contact. and I use the 8500 allot.
So I would really feel it's loss.
Robert
If your not seeing my previous posts then it's even
more important I don't touch the 8500 and the 780
still can't post even though FF is up to date. I believe
this part of the spam effect happening where you can't
see my previous posts so it's hit and miss now and the
780 can't post although it use to be able to.. and a.i.o.e
is down.
I'll install the RAM and the PCI card with mini disk
then I'll run a memtest86
I'll take pics and post them and hopefully you'll see them.
I still would like to create two backup Win 7 pro (2)TB hd'ds
for the 8500.
I was thinking of using one of the leftover hd's as a
storage hd not a mrimg per se where I would browse my
C: drive and cut/paste folders from the 8500 to make it
more lean but where I could still access them if needed.
That's much later,... though,..
Robert
There's no way I'm touching the 8500 unless I can post with the 780.
That was the whole purpose of the 780 in case the 8500 had problems.
That's why I bought it and I've used it several times as intended but
now it's useless as a backup computer if I can't post to Google.groups.
Yes about: should work because about:profiles does but that's what I
mean; things that should work don't. You tested it and saw for yourself.
• the 8500 should read cd's but doesn't and doesn't let us change the boot order either
• the 780 should read the Patriot after I created the PE10 but doesn't • the 780 can't post to Google.groups where before it could
• in the cmd prompt (cd) should work, and (cd program profiles) should work(without parenthesis) but they don't.
I think you showed me this before and is how I usually check if FF is up to date.
https://postimg.cc/JDYsRsLC
https://postimg.cc/BPqf7gyq
Understood, just look at all the OS's since XP ! I'm glad I got Win 7 Pro, it's been an excellent choice and the Dell computers. The spam is ruining it for everyone.
Your Mall story is exactly how I feel and I AM a boomer *L* I'm 69 years old. It's hard for me to even keep up with old technology let alone all the new stuff
and I can see AI being used for the wrong purposes. i.e. Terminator.
I did click your 115.4 0esr link and downloaded it to the 780, can't you see my post
on it with pics?
I have done the about:profiles and took a screen shot of the root values.
It seems your not seeing the previous posts for some reason. I did all of this.
Here's a pic of the 780 showing FF is up to date:
https://postimg.cc/sB8Q5BMf
I tried posting and again it failed.
I don't know what you mean by having backups to my profile? I made a folder for it and put it My Documents under computer.
You kind of lost me on the FF folder and using it with ESR on the 780?
Are you saying to open the Mozilla Firefox folder and click the Firefox.exe on the 780?
The 780 is up to date. Again, it seems your not seeing all my previous posts.
Robert
I tried the mrimg again but this time it didn't give me the browse option:
https://postimg.cc/47P5YH6k
however I managed to navigate to the mrimgs and change the drive letter to K: but it didn't give me the screen to enable access to restricted folders yet I was able to access them and copy/pasted 'My Documents' from the K drive
to the C: drive.
You know how it opens a dialog box and shows the files being transferred
from one folder to the next? It did that at first but now the 'files' are frozen
between folders and there's no apparent transfer happening. Also when the transfer completes it should close or tell me something, correct? I'm afraid to do anything since I've gotten this far with it but it seems like it's not responding.
It just says, File operation in progress, please wait but there's no movement.
It's been like this for about an hour now. What should I do?
Thoughts, suggestions?
Robert
OK, so I wait till I see the next pop-up for IE-11? Is it
a certainty that I'll loose my bookmarks? and MSN will
be my home page?
Lets say IE-11 pops up again, I then disconnect the
Internet connection, then select the defaults, the just
let it run ? If it makes MSN my home page I can type
FF then about:blank for my home page couldn't I?
I did a search for profiles.ini and it showed nothing.
https://postimg.cc/Jym95jJW
Here's my profile:
https://postimg.cc/gx788b79
I already have taken a screenshot and saved in a folder
in MyDocuments.
I am trying to follow your instructions but the cd and cd
program files do not work in the cmd prompt.
How do I backup my profile? Are you saying do mrimgs
first? You mean I may loose my access to sites because
my passwords won't work? Like eBay or my bank? How
do I recover from that!
The Patriot never booted, the problem isn't a progress bar
it's missing operating system.
The 780 still is unable to post where before it had.
Hopefully the RAM will arrive soon and I'll be able to install
it and the PCI card and run the mini disk that came with it.
Then I'll do a memteat86.
Robert
I just thought if I upgrade to IE11 successfully will I
get pop-ups to upgrade to Edge? Should I also do that?
Robert
In your first post it seems like an older posting
we did awhile back when I was trying to browse
the mrimgs and I was having problems. I have all
that documented on how to do it., I could never
remember*L*
I followed your instructions to the Internet Explorer
folder and file iexplore.exe.
https://postimg.cc/2bpxYsRD
Since I don't use Internet Explorer Can't I just
close it and use FF? The same way I can use
Internet Explorer now if I want? The whole
purpose of doing IE11 is to extend Win 7 but
not replace my FF.
So I would need to go into my about:profiles
and create a new profile with my old profile
number with bookmarks.
I did a Agent Ransack search of profiles.ini
https://postimg.cc/rz29PRLY
You kind of lost me on why were doing this,..
I do have a screenshot of my folder but I will
write it down, just in case.
Here's my Patriot on Admin Account because
that's the only way I can access disk management
https://postimg.cc/4nZhkz2q
what does crash dump mean? Do I have a bad hd?
I have it on both computers.
Well, if Win 7 should stop working for me I still
have my bootable Win 10 hd's,,, that we made.
Robert
Advanced>WIM = WinPE10 (WADK)>build>creating rescuemedia>successfully created> close, switch user> diskmgnt:
I'll try and remake the WinPE10 again on the Patriot and
we'll see if it works this time when I reboot. It should detect
it like a cd without changing the boot order. This time I clicked
enable multi boot (MBR/UEFI) and selected USB Flash drive
Advanced>WIM = WinPE10 (WADK)>build>creating rescuemedia>successfully created> close, switch user> diskmgnt:
https://postimg.cc/8fjJ5VJ5
It didn't work and is the same as before.
I still have my WinPE10 Rescue CD's that work. What should
I do about the Patriot? Should I reformat it or erase everything
on it or whatever? It said it was successful after the build.
How do I remove the crash dump's from the partitions? disk
cleaner in System Tools? I've already defragged both computes.
Is there anything you want me to do before we proceed and
click the iexplorer.exe?
Before doing that, I'll make a System Restore mark, write My
Profile numbers down btw which one do I use when creating
a new profile?
I'll also make mrimgs on both computers.
What else?
1.How do I make FF my homepage, then about:blank?
2.Will I still have FF or do I have to install it again?
3.what about all my anti virus and anti- maleware? Will they
stay intact?
4.You said I would loose my passwords so how do I get
those back? This is an awful lot of hassle.
I haven't used Explorer in a very long time so if
there's anything bookmarks there they would be
years old.
Here's my FF showing it's running the esr and is up to date.
https://postimg.cc/7b4vG58r
Robert
I think at this point its more important to get the 780 to post
to Google groups.
If Win7 dies on me what are the symtoms? I can always put
in the Win 10 hd's we made.
Thanks,
Robert
This is all I could find but it's made in the U.S.A.
and free shipping and cheaper. What do you think?
https://www.newegg.com/avarum-8gb/p/0RN-00UF-00212
Robert
I'm not sure what you mean by my bookmark list?
If you mean about:profiles both have them but I
haven't opened them to check what's inside.
The 780 has regular bookmarks and is fully populated
after I exported / imported bookmarks from the 8500.
Robert
The previous pic was of the 8500
here's the 780 FF.
https://postimg.cc/MMT6cg7M
What do you think of these? I'm just shooting in the dark here.
At least it shows (6) in stock so they don't have to ship them
from China
https://www.amazon.com/4GBx2-240-pin-DIMM-DDR3-PC3-12800/dp/B005NU49DG?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A2NDNAPHQ3UDKH&th=1
Can you suggest any other RAM made in the USA? After waiting
all that time for RAM only to find they couldn't deliver it then wanted additional shipping fees to re-ship it. Newegg said they would just
repeat the same mistake and get it wrong again. I don't want to
go through that again.
Thanks,
Robert
I have a problem...
I was trying to create a PE10 Rescue CD for the 8500
using an old CD-RW I had and during the process it had
to be cleaned. This time it required a download unlike the
others but it said it finished successfully, so I restarted
the computer but it never gave me the F12 prompt and
went straight to the MBR .
So how do I restore it? so it gives me my F12 prompt back?
Should I try System Restore? Would the SD card with PE10
I made for the 780 work on the 8500?
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
I just realized I forgot to disconnect the ethernet cable before
I clicked OK but since nothing happened, I assume I'm OK?
Robert
I had just run SuperAntispyware on the 780 and
that seems to trigger the pop-up display because
it did the same thing on the 8500 last time I ran it.
In fact, its running now on the 8500.
So here I go on the 780 and lets hope for the best.
I clicked OK but nothing happened afterward and
the dialog box closed.
https://postimg.cc/Czb5YhbF
I tried posting from the 780 afterwards but again it
failed.
Robert
Isn't there a set of CMD line instructions you can
give me to bring the 'F12 boot options' screen back?
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
I did my mrimg backup on the 780 with PE10.
Luckily, I had made a WinPE10 Rescue CD so I
used that. I had been using PE 5.0 for both computers.
Now the 780 has PE10 but the 8500 is still on PE 5.0
and it has 3.0 ports so could benefit from PE10.
However, until we can fix the 'F12 boot options' screen
problem I can't make a clean Rescue CD or mrimg on
the 8500 so I'm stuck. I mean I could but it would be
tainted like with a virus or malware. I only want clean
mrimgs not ones with issues.
So how do I get my F12 back? Did the F2 pics I provided
help?
If all else fails,, can a mrimg restore fix the F12 problem?
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Here's my F2 pics:
https://postimg.cc/Z0yN8YXh
https://postimg.cc/p5xP5Bgr
https://postimg.cc/K1djvtvk
https://postimg.cc/vcKH35nq
https://postimg.cc/1nWZ4ZcC
https://postimg.cc/YhWJBFVy
https://postimg.cc/w1zbKGD
Are you saying there's no way to fix this?
The problem isn't timing to click wehn the F12 appears
the problem is that the F12 boot option screen is gone.
I'm use to the F12 boot options screen and it's just as you
say It's only there for a second but I don;t ever remember
seeing an F2?
However, I can still access F2 and F12 when the screen
goes black but this isn't normal. I would like to get my F12
boot options screen back if possible.
Would a mrimg restore fix the problem and bring back the
F12 screen?
Thanks,
Robert
I hope you saw my last posts but just in case here's a
repeat of the summary:
Summary:
• We transferred My Bookmarks and My Documents
to the 780 and installed Word and Excel.
• we added 8GB of Corsair RAM giving it 12GB total the
same as the 8500. I also installed a PCI card with 3.0 ports
but it didn't have any place to plug in the molex cable so I
left it as is.
• I created a WinPE10 SD-card used with the USB adapter
you helped me pick out and also a PE10 Rescue CD for the 780
• We went through IE11 on both computers
• I created a WinPE10 CD on the 8500 which caused the F12
boot options screen to disappear and the second time with a
new CD-RW it messed up my keyboard. So I'm not using
PE10 on the 8500 anymore. It doesn't like it.
• I completed a PE 5.0, V7.2.3906, 64 bit mrimg on the 8500
In your last message it appears you hadn't seen my
previous posts which included the F2 pics because you
didn't mention them so I included them again in my
reply to you.
It's just as you said it would be awhile back where
the 780 can't post anymore where it use to be able to
and even when I post on the 8500 you can't see half
my posts and maybe I'm not seeing yours? So it's very
iffy now.
I'm kind of puzzled about the 8500's stripped down
APTIO BIOS. I bought it new although it was a custom
order with the 12GB of RAM but I would have thought
they would of put a Dell BIOS in and not a generic
stripped down BIOS?
Is there anything else I should do at this point or
anything you recommend?
Is there a Windows 10 reference book that you would
recommend?
Both computers are running well and I assure you I won't
mess with the 8500 or 780 from this point. They are both
humming along nicely. I will continue to make monthly
mrimgs and hopefully no problems will pop-up but if so,
I'll try contacting you.
Many thanks,
Robert
I was a bit leery of doing this because the last time I tried it, it
screwed up the 8500 but I have new CD-RW disks so I made
a WinPE10 Rescue CD on the 8500 and it completed successfully.
However when I tried to run it afterward, I pressed F12 to select
CD and all was fine but it wouldn't let me use my up/down arrows
to select the CD player. I tried the arrows on the number pad as well
and nothing.
So I switched the keyboard with the 780 and still nothing but when
I switched my 8500 keyboard back it worked?! what the hell ??? I
don't get it? Why didn't it work before? See what I mean?
I don't want to have to go through this every time I make a mrimg.
The 8500 definitely doesn't like PE10 and this was a new CD-RW I
used but then the problem moved to the keyboard when all was fine.
I may just stick with PE5.0 on the 8500. I didn't have these problems with it.
Robert
I remember we had keyboard problems before and I
used a standard non- eronomic keyboard that came with
the 8500 I believe that got us through the problem.
Unfortunately, I don't have that keyboard anymore which
is why I bought the standard Microsoft ergonomic keyboard
and now is on the 780. I usually use Microsoft 4000
ergonomic keyboards.
My eyes have glazed over many times *L* At any rate I
was able to get it to boot Macrium but the 8500 definitely
doesn't like PE10 for whatever reason. So I'm sticking with
the PE 5.0
So the APTIO BIOS is OK,... just a another customer BIOS
that Dell uses for it's customer base.
I just tried plugging in a Patriot stick to the 3.0 port on the
780 and nothing happened. Do I have to remove the molex
cable? I wouldn't think so since it's not connected to anything.
I used PE10 on the 780 because we wanted it for the 3.0 driver
but one thing I don't like about PE10 is it takes forever to load.
I'm thinking of going back to PE 5.0 on both computers because
I didn't have any problems with it.
Robert
I'm re-posting my last message in case you didn't see it
I forgot to run the mini disk on the 780 because I thought
I needed to connect the molex for it to work. So I put the
mini-disk in and this is what it gave me:
https://postimg.cc/PpRCZ4Tr
https://postimg.cc/Hr9j3HdN
I tried the Patriot stick afterwards and still nothing.
We done everything we can for the 8500 and the 780
but I have one last question.
Can I move My bookmarks and My Documents from
Win 7 to Win 10 when and if the time comes?
I'll leave everything as is and won't touch anything and
will continue making monthly mrimgs.
Robert
I forgot to run the mini disk on the 780 because I thought
I needed to connect the molex for it to work. So I put the
mini-disk in and this is what it gave me:
https://postimg.cc/PpRCZ4Tr
https://postimg.cc/Hr9j3HdN
I tried the Patriot stick afterwards and still nothing.
Robert
I don't mean install Win 10 over Win 7, I already have Win 10
hd's we made for the 780 and 8500 when they still offered Win
10 upgrade for free. I mean can I copy/paste my bookmarks
and My Documents from Win 7 to the Win 10 hd?
Robert
I can export my bookmarks via Patriot stick but I
don't know how to import them into Win 10 and its
laid out allot different than Win 7
For My Documents I would have to use browsing
mrimgs, then copy/paste to the C: partition on Win
10 hd.
What do you think?
Also, will Macrium and my anti-virus and anti-malware
still work in Win 10? Will the mrimgs still work?
Robert
For example; this is what I was thinking,.. could I export My Bookmarks
and copy My Documents from Win 7 using a Patriot? Then switch the hd's
in the 780 and put in my Win 10 hd we made and import My Bookmarks
and paste My Documents in the Windows 10 hd?
That's how I moved them from the 8500 to the 780 but Win 10 is laid
out differently so I don't know how to navigate to bookmarks.
I assume I would paste 'My Documents' in the C: drive but I would
have to find the bookmarks menu to import them.
I searched for importing bookmarks to Win 10 but it keeps giving me
importing to Chrome. I found this though: It says that FF has a bug?
https://www.tenforums.com/browsers-email/205777-how-do-i-import-bookmarks-saved-logons-into-firefox-win-10-a.html
I've watched Win 10 videos but it seems confusing to me.
I don't like the tiles system at all. It seems like they made it
more difficult not easier.
Robert
I was thinking, even if I make an iso file and put it in
downloads on the Win 10 hd and then run it, it will only
update Win 10 not the bookmarks or My Documents.
Is there no way of importing bookmarks to Win10?
I still think browsing the mrimg is the only solution.
and I need macrium to do that.
Also can we continue this on the new thread I started?
O.T. - Moving bookmarks and My Documents from Win 7 hd to Win 10 hd
The posts are getting pretty long.
Thanks.
Robert
I can export my bookmarks via Patriot stick but I
don't know how to import them into Win 10 and its
laid out allot different than Win 7
For My Documents I would have to use browsing
mrimgs, then copy/paste to the C: partition on Win
10 hd.
What do you think?
Also, will Macrium and my anti-virus and anti-malware
still work in Win 10? Will the mrimgs still work?
Robert
I re-read your instructions,.. you want me to
remove my Win 7 hd and replace it with my
Win 10 hd we already created and clone over
it with a newer version of Windows 10 using
an iso. ,correct?
I watched a YouTube video on how to do it
and I can follow it as I do the 780.
Since we created the Win 10 hd's from Win 7
most of my bookmarks and My Documents
should be there but they wouldn't be up to date.
The AV programs worry me because then I'll
have to set things up again all over and Win 10
layout is so different and confusing.
I agree with you about computers getting crazy.
I saw your instructions if FF would of let me download
Thunderbird,... wow,. there's quite a few just to reply.!
Thunderbird reminds me of the instructions for using the
toilet in the space lab.
They sure don't make it easy, do they? Computers
were suppose to make things easier and it seems they
are making it harder and harder and in my case as you
well know I get problems that crop up out of no where,
like with your Ethernet connection.
Robert
I checked about:config and it's false.
https://postimg.cc/GTxLnt18
I'm not following you here. You want me to sign on
to disk management? and find the fielimport and change
it? I did log onto disk management but couldn't see anything
to enable or disable.
signon.management.page.fileImport.enabled True # Do importations, then return to Defaults
# Double-clicking a Boolean preference, flips the value
# to the other state.
I have been able to export my bookmarks from the 780
to a Patriot with no problem.
It sounds like it's getting worst and worst, even if I do
switch to Win 10 from what you say they've stopped
upgrading that as well. Does that mean my screens will
someday just go black and not function ?
Are you saying the only way to preserve my bookmarks is
to install Win 10 over my Win 7hd ? Then I would loose Win
7 forever. I'm confused right now as to what you want to do?
So my Win 10 hd's we created when it was still a free upgrade
are obsolete and useless?
I can't remember which file I used to download programs that's
why I wanted you to review them.
Yes I saw the warning which explains why the 780 couldn't post
anymore and makes whatever we decide to do more urgent.
I tried using Thunderbird before but it didn't work. Still, I clicked
your link but it said file not downloaded potential security risk in red.
Robert
I finally figured out how to get out of email,... whew. operator error *L*
https://postimg.cc/23DP9ZxT
So what do I do now? I tried to follow your instructions but the step where
I click finish I missed where the file went and couldn't complete the process.
I've tried to repeat it but it doesn't let me because its all grayed out.
back to the
about:config
security.allow_eval_in_parent_process True # Should be False right now
I checked and it was false but why was I checking this again?
Looking at my available hd's I would first want to try this on the spare Win10 hd and it should have bookmarks and My documents on it as well
although dated.
Could I just copy/paste without using macrium?
Since you know my email, why couldn't you just send me a
'ping' email so we could stay in touch that way? It would
be allot easier than using Thunderbird and Yahoo isn't going
away anytime soon. What do you think? It allot better than on
here or Thunderbird and would only email you if I needed help.
I understand the process and steps to download and create an iso and
update Win 10 to a newer version. Will it update to Win 11 automatically
or do I have to go back and make an Update iso which they offered?
Hopefully I won't have any issues with the TPM since it didn't when
we upgraded from Win 7 Pro to Win 10 when they still offered it for free.
Robert
Somehow I managed to get Thunderbird completed but I
clicked on read email and I can't get out of it. How the hell do I
turn Thunderbird off or is it like Sea Monkey and activated
every time I open it.
I don't like having my email account attached to Thunderbird.
It's stuck in email and I can't seem to get out of it. , So what do
I do now?
Just one problem after another.
Robert
Here's my Thunderbird installation:
https://postimg.cc/SXnwS9rw
https://postimg.cc/VJVVV684 Using the limited_account to do a Program Install !!!
https://postimg.cc/vxbqVxr8
https://postimg.cc/SYdZ7Qd6
https://postimg.cc/DmcFYqYg
https://postimg.cc/WhWVssVq
https://postimg.cc/2b7pMDT6
https://postimg.cc/5jpdmf6K That is the tab that could have been dismissed and ignored.
Robert
I downloaded Thunderbird and selected the exe
and FF was OK with it. I haven't set it up yet.
When it asks for my email account and password
is it asking me to make up a password or the actual
password to the email account?
I guess another way of saying it is how do I update
my existing bookmarks and My Documents on the
Win 10 hd.
I can export bookmarks from Win 7 via the Patriot but
I haven't found where I can import them on Win 10?
Every time I try to do a search on how to do it it keeps
giving me Chrome. One video showed how he did it by
using the application menu to manage bookmarks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRuLTlHpMV8
It seems like he was in Win 7 the entire time not Win 10
because there was no change in the desktop layout.
He just moved bookmarks from Win 7 to Win 7 .
I understand about Win 7 not being supported
anymore and I want to get the latest version of
Win 10 of course.
I was also thinking of using the spare 780 Win 10 hd
for this as a test just in case something goes wrong.
Then if everything goes well I can do the master
780 Win 10 hd.
As far as the A/V programs they may survive the upgrade
with flying colors or I may just have to reinstall and I have
to 8500 to check for downloads. The 780 has the same A/V
programs. I didn't have to reinstall anything when I upgraded
from Win 7 to Win 10. I only use free A/V products. I don't
pay for any of it.
Robert
I found a video that shows how to
access bookmarks in Win 10 in FF
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1BTL97igaw
It seems pretty much like Win 7, can you
confirm this? If so, I can go ahead and export my
bookmarks to a Patriot and then import them to the
Win 10 HD in the 780.
Rob
I switched hd's in the 780 but since FF isn't installed
it doesn't give the menu bar when I right click.
I did find where to import/export by clicking the 3 dots
on the upper right top then clicking settings.
https://postimg.cc/9w4WsF82
https://postimg.cc/w7cPgYCY
https://postimg.cc/sMTNG9fn
https://postimg.cc/dkyHfb2X
https://postimg.cc/jCy34rdn
https://postimg.cc/Mn39p6tN
https://postimg.cc/dZFBxLtk
https://postimg.cc/SnPHtf0n
So I need a link to download FF
Also I couldn't find how to shut it down and I ended up
signing out of my account which apparently was the
Administrators Account and my usual password didn't
work so I have to reset it. The User Account had nothing.
I still think at present we need to focus on getting me a USENET
on SeaMonkey so I can post and then we can come back to Win
10 because there's time element to this and I don't want to loose
contact.
Robert
I switched the Win 7 hd back in the 780 but I
left the Win10 hd inside instead of taking it in
and out. The 780 has slots for (2) hd's.
Actually, the cable has two connections on it
as well but I don't know about connecting both
of them at the same time with two different OS's.
Robert
OIC, so the best we can hope for on the 780 is Win 10 Pro. Could
the TPM also be the reason why the PCI card doesn't work?
We won't know the TPM version on either the 780 or 8500 until I put
in the Win 10 hd's. How do I check my TPM on the 8500 or 780 in
Win 7 ?
Are you recommending that I use In Control and download the version
on the left in red or do I click the green download now? I wouldn't know
how to use it. I read through it and didn't realize Microsoft had made so many changes etc. They truly don't know when to leave well enough alone.
This would be for the 780 and 8500 Win 10 correct?
I already have Sea Monkey installed but I don't understand the steps involved for creating a USENET in Sea Monkey although I have tried to post with O.A.I.C. and failed and Thunderbird won't let me try again because its
grayed out when I do.
Robert
I'm on the 8500 but as you can see from my
previous post the 780 can post again.
I switched hd's with the 780 again and
found this site and clicked the FF.exe to install
it but then it asked for my PIN number.
with a address I do not recognize on Outlook
and I was going to close it but then the Mozilla
Firefox Setup dialog opened up and the previous
screen disappeared. I didn't click anything.
https://postimg.cc/4mspRzJ3 Win10 with MSEdge present
https://postimg.cc/1425pSd1 Should have done SaveAs, not execute EXE on receipt.
https://postimg.cc/sQ1shH92 Asking for a PIN, to elevate with an MSA as the account
https://postimg.cc/0zfsH1VQ Firefox install running...
https://postimg.cc/9wZ3d64c Firefox install running...
https://postimg.cc/8f89zZZ9 Firefox install running...
https://postimg.cc/m1NX2Bz1 Firefox up.
https://postimg.cc/SnKTk0yj
https://postimg.cc/bDf4z6CM Firefox showing GG
I skipped the pop-up, add-ons and in sync pages because
I didn't know anything about them. Could we maybe
go back later and see if I need to change things? I right
clicked and clicked menu bar. So we have our
import/export functions. I also noticed that I couldn't switch
between users but last time I could and also I didn't
have to enter a password whereas last time I had signed
off, so it should have asked for it.
Robert
I think were getting ahead of ourselves here and I already messed up
with installing FF.
I want to make sure I do things right from this point forward.
Do you want me to uninstall FF then run it again and save it but again
the 780 has no A/V .
If you want me to proceed do I double click the download to get Seamonkey
to install?
Thanks,
Robert
The 780 doesn't have any A/V scanners I thought I was
supposed to to run it?
Do you want me to uninstall FF?
I started to do Seamonkey but stopped after I read your
last post because I may be doing it wrong. I had clicked
your link to download it and it completed but do I double
click it or because FF is tainted now maybe I should uninstall
it. ?
The 780 again didn't ask for any password. I don't recall what
I used before but it should of been what I entered when it did ask
last time. If it asks again I'll reset it.
Thanks,
Robert
I clicked to download SeaMonkey and I had a Windows
Defender pop-up during the process.
After it finished downloading I went into File Explorer and
right clicked it to scan downloads with Windows Defender.
I would of never of known to do this before. Then I finished
with the installation.
https://postimg.cc/9rGwrBfw Downloading Seamonkey
https://postimg.cc/k60D5V3y windows Defender manual scan
https://postimg.cc/hQVvQSKR Protection history
https://postimg.cc/fJjkwTHx Setup starts...
https://postimg.cc/2q35FdCw License
https://postimg.cc/dDGVBVcz Standard install
https://postimg.cc/8jHk2X54 Path option
https://postimg.cc/68bW37CG Launch tick box
https://postimg.cc/jnhKrCs2 Done.
Robert
On 12/18/2023 4:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I clicked to download SeaMonkey and I had a Windows
Defender pop-up during the process.
After it finished downloading I went into File Explorer and
right clicked it to scan downloads with Windows Defender.
I would of never of known to do this before. Then I finished
with the installation.
https://postimg.cc/9rGwrBfw Downloading Seamonkey
https://postimg.cc/k60D5V3y windows Defender manual scan
https://postimg.cc/hQVvQSKR Protection history
https://postimg.cc/fJjkwTHx Setup starts...
https://postimg.cc/2q35FdCw License
https://postimg.cc/dDGVBVcz Standard install
https://postimg.cc/8jHk2X54 Path option
https://postimg.cc/68bW37CG Launch tick box
https://postimg.cc/jnhKrCs2 Done.
Robert
All looks in order.
Paul
I had the password issue come up again in
the User Account and the Admin account
which makes me think they are both Admin
Accounts because User Accounts don't have
passwords but the account it was connected
to wasn't mine. I don't recognize it at all.
So I ended up resetting it and but for some
reason it wouldn't open up afterwards so I
closed it and opened the Admin Account
and was confronted by another password
problem but I was able to reset it.
Hopefully that's the end of the password problem.
Now as I see it I have to install Seamonkey
on the 780 Win 7 and the 8500 Win 7 and
Win 10 so all versions have it so we stay connected.
We can go back and do the InControl and the
EICAR in string to test etc. after we establish
a USENET connection with Seamonkey. Do I
just click the link you gave for EICAR? or what?
I have to setup single click on Win 10
I just setup SeaMonkey and have trouble at the
end because I only selected 500 downloads but
I typed the current post in and created a message
but its not there. I didn't think to save the message.
https://postimg.cc/ZWf0DK7c
https://postimg.cc/dkNzzgMg Seamonkey main window
https://postimg.cc/w1K3CGgt Newsgroup Account box
https://postimg.cc/gwp9bvxq
https://postimg.cc/FYRdgLrp
https://postimg.cc/hz91Wd7x
https://postimg.cc/T5fqR3rs Congratulations dialog
https://postimg.cc/XXbTZKLR
https://postimg.cc/FY86h01n Server setup finished
https://postimg.cc/xcHJs2MJ Subscribe dialog
https://postimg.cc/HVsWM131 download 500 headers
I didn't think to take pics of the last steps, I
was so wrapped up in trying to get it to work,
but you can see I followed your instructions.
I just closed Seamonkey because you told me
I never needed to logoff because it's activated
as soon as you open it. However I got this
as if it hadn't finished. I was going to restart the
780 anyway because it had been on for awhile.
It's updating the 780 now and says the pc will
restart several times.
https://postimg.cc/5HxVFZwF This is 22H2 coming in. Incontrol ??? Too late ???
https://postimg.cc/cgCGFwkx Seamonkey setup wizard
Robert
I had the password issue come up again in
the User Account and the Admin account
which makes me think they are both Admin
Accounts because User Accounts don't have
passwords but the account it was connected
to wasn't mine. I don't recognize it at all.
So I ended up resetting it and but for some
reason it wouldn't open up afterwards so I
closed it and opened the Admin Account
and was confronted by another password
problem but I was able to reset it.
Hopefully that's the end of the password problem.
Now as I see it I have to install Seamonkey
on the 780 Win 7 and the 8500 Win 7 and
Win 10 so all versions have it so we stay connected.
We can go back and do the InControl and the
EICAR in string to test etc. after we establish
a USENET connection with Seamonkey. Do I
just click the link you gave for EICAR? or what?
I have to setup single click on Win 10
I just setup SeaMonkey and have trouble at the
end because I only selected 500 downloads but
I typed the current post in and created a message
but its not there. I didn't think to save the message.
https://postimg.cc/ZWf0DK7c
https://postimg.cc/dkNzzgMg
https://postimg.cc/w1K3CGgt
https://postimg.cc/gwp9bvxq
https://postimg.cc/FYRdgLrp
https://postimg.cc/hz91Wd7x
https://postimg.cc/T5fqR3rs
https://postimg.cc/XXbTZKLR
https://postimg.cc/FY86h01n
https://postimg.cc/xcHJs2MJ
https://postimg.cc/HVsWM131
I didn't think to take pics of the last steps, I
was so wrapped up in trying to get it to work,
but you can see I followed your instructions.
I just closed Seamonkey because you told me
I never needed to logoff because it's activated
as soon as you open it. However I got this
as if it hadn't finished. I was going to restart the
780 anyway because it had been on for awhile.
It's updating the 780 now and says the pc will
restart several times.
https://postimg.cc/5HxVFZwF
https://postimg.cc/cgCGFwkx
Robert
Robert in CA wrote:
I had the password issue come up again inIt worked !!!
the User Account and the Admin account
which makes me think they are both Admin
Accounts because User Accounts don't have
passwords but the account it was connected
to wasn't mine. I don't recognize it at all.
So I ended up resetting it and but for some
reason it wouldn't open up afterwards so I
closed it and opened the Admin Account
and was confronted by another password
problem but I was able to reset it.
Hopefully that's the end of the password problem.
Now as I see it I have to install Seamonkey
on the 780 Win 7 and the 8500 Win 7 and
Win 10 so all versions have it so we stay connected.
We can go back and do the InControl and the
EICAR in string to test etc. after we establish
a USENET connection with Seamonkey. Do I
just click the link you gave for EICAR? or what?
I have to setup single click on Win 10
I just setup SeaMonkey and have trouble at the
end because I only selected 500 downloads but
I typed the current post in and created a message
but its not there. I didn't think to save the message.
https://postimg.cc/ZWf0DK7c
https://postimg.cc/dkNzzgMg
https://postimg.cc/w1K3CGgt
https://postimg.cc/gwp9bvxq
https://postimg.cc/FYRdgLrp
https://postimg.cc/hz91Wd7x
https://postimg.cc/T5fqR3rs
https://postimg.cc/XXbTZKLR
https://postimg.cc/FY86h01n
https://postimg.cc/xcHJs2MJ
https://postimg.cc/HVsWM131
I didn't think to take pics of the last steps, I
was so wrapped up in trying to get it to work,
but you can see I followed your instructions.
I just closed Seamonkey because you told me
I never needed to logoff because it's activated
as soon as you open it. However I got this
as if it hadn't finished. I was going to restart the
780 anyway because it had been on for awhile.
It's updating the 780 now and says the pc will
restart several times.
https://postimg.cc/5HxVFZwF
https://postimg.cc/cgCGFwkx
Robert
Do I have to go through all the steps
each time I post?
OK, so the Win 10 Spymonkey is working.
We need to do the same for the Win 7.
Question, should I delete my current
Spymonkey before I install the new version?
so much to remember and do but at
least we made it this far. Did I tell you
that I had a Win 11 upgrade that covered
the entire screen. I just hit escape.
Were getting there but I have to admit its
scary at times.
Robert
On 2023-10-11 05:28, Robert in CA wrote:
I forgot,
HD-Tune - http://www.hdtune.com/download.html (click on the trial to
download?)
AdwCleaner - https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/adwcleaner/
Imgeburn- http://www.oldversion.com/windows/imgburn-2-5-0-0
Agent Ransack - https://www.mythicsoft.com/agentransack/download/
GeForce Drivers - https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/drivers/
Microsoft - https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download
I'm missing a VLC player download, could you please provide one?
Thanks,
Robert
There is a button on the main page, for a download.
https://www.videolan.org/
Paul
On 12/15/2023 8:44 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I was thinking, even if I make an iso file and put it in
downloads on the Win 10 hd and then run it, it will only
update Win 10 not the bookmarks or My Documents.
Is there no way of importing bookmarks to Win10?
I still think browsing the mrimg is the only solution.
and I need macrium to do that.
Also can we continue this on the new thread I started?
O.T. - Moving bookmarks and My Documents from Win 7 hd to Win 10 hd
The posts are getting pretty long.
Thanks.
Robert
Of course you can copy stuff to the new disk.
I was hoping to come up with a scheme, so that your
Win7 environment would be preserved.
You can export bookmarks, and bring them places with your
Patriot USB flash stick.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 2023-10-11 05:28, Robert in CA wrote:
I forgot,
HD-Tune - http://www.hdtune.com/download.html (click on the trial to
download?)
AdwCleaner - https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/adwcleaner/
Imgeburn- http://www.oldversion.com/windows/imgburn-2-5-0-0
Agent Ransack - https://www.mythicsoft.com/agentransack/download/
GeForce Drivers - https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/drivers/
Microsoft - https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download
I'm missing a VLC player download, could you please provide one?
Thanks,
Robert
There is a button on the main page, for a download.
https://www.videolan.org/
Paul
I unscribed to the newsgroup and re-scribed
to it with a limit of 7000 but it doesn't show
the current posts.This was the nearest I could
find. Was 7000 too high? At least with the 500
I could see the current posts. Maybe I should
change it back?
Robert
On 12/18/2023 11:31 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I had the password issue come up again in
the User Account and the Admin account
which makes me think they are both Admin
Accounts because User Accounts don't have
passwords but the account it was connected
to wasn't mine. I don't recognize it at all.
So I ended up resetting it and but for some
reason it wouldn't open up afterwards so I
closed it and opened the Admin Account
and was confronted by another password
problem but I was able to reset it.
Hopefully that's the end of the password problem.
Now as I see it I have to install Seamonkey
on the 780 Win 7 and the 8500 Win 7 and
Win 10 so all versions have it so we stay connected.
We can go back and do the InControl and the
EICAR in string to test etc. after we establish
a USENET connection with Seamonkey. Do I
just click the link you gave for EICAR? or what?
I have to setup single click on Win 10
I just setup SeaMonkey and have trouble at the
end because I only selected 500 downloads but
I typed the current post in and created a message
but its not there. I didn't think to save the message.
https://postimg.cc/ZWf0DK7c
https://postimg.cc/dkNzzgMg Seamonkey main window
https://postimg.cc/w1K3CGgt Newsgroup Account box
https://postimg.cc/gwp9bvxq
https://postimg.cc/FYRdgLrp
https://postimg.cc/hz91Wd7x
https://postimg.cc/T5fqR3rs Congratulations dialog
https://postimg.cc/XXbTZKLR
https://postimg.cc/FY86h01n Server setup finished
https://postimg.cc/xcHJs2MJ Subscribe dialog
https://postimg.cc/HVsWM131 download 500 headers
I didn't think to take pics of the last steps, I
was so wrapped up in trying to get it to work,
but you can see I followed your instructions.
I just closed Seamonkey because you told me
I never needed to logoff because it's activated
as soon as you open it. However I got this
as if it hadn't finished. I was going to restart the
780 anyway because it had been on for awhile.
It's updating the 780 now and says the pc will
restart several times.
https://postimg.cc/5HxVFZwF This is 22H2 coming in. Incontrol ??? Too late ???
https://postimg.cc/cgCGFwkx Seamonkey setup wizard
Robert
You can unsubscribe the group, which deletes the downloads,
and re-subscribe to the same group. Then, when it asks
how many to download, you can select 2000 or more.
Access to the server you are using, requires no account
and with no account comes no password to enter either.
I selected this server specifically to eliminate a few
of the steps needed for an account-based server.
Paul
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2023-10-11 05:28, Robert in CA wrote:
I forgot,
HD-Tune - http://www.hdtune.com/download.html (click on the trial to download?)
AdwCleaner - https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/adwcleaner/
Imgeburn- http://www.oldversion.com/windows/imgburn-2-5-0-0
Agent Ransack - https://www.mythicsoft.com/agentransack/download/
GeForce Drivers - https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/drivers/
Microsoft - https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download
I'm missing a VLC player download, could you please provide one?
Thanks,
Robert
There is a button on the main page, for a download.
https://www.videolan.org/
Paul
I unscribed to the newsgroup and re-scribed
to it with a limit of 7000 but it doesn't show
the current posts.This was the nearest I could
find. Was 7000 too high? At least with the 500
I could see the current posts. Maybe I should
change it back?
Robert
I set it to 2000 and still couldn't see
the current posts, so I unscribed for a
and re-scribed 3rd time and set it back to
500 but still can't see current posts.
Robert
The 780 has restarted and I had to enter the password again.
It's lucky I reset it because this time it took it with no
problem. I won't use the other account anymore but I would
like to create a User Account and delete this other one and get
off the Admin Account. Too much damage can happen there.
I don't like having to enter my password every time I use it.
Once we get SeaMonkey working on all the OS then we can
turn to the other projects you have in mind. I can also import
my bookmarks from the 8500 and import them to the 780
Win10. Could I copy over the existing bookmarks on Win 7
to update them as well as My Documents?
Well all that for later after we get the computers able to post via Seamonkey. That's the top priority now. My head is already
swimming with all I had to do and can hardly remember what I
did and what I have to do.
I'm confused,.. didn't I want to get 22H2? See what I mean?
Sometimes I don't know what to do like with the 500 downloads.
One thing, the 780 had the internal mic speaker on Win 7 and it
was OK but on Win 10 it shows no internal mic?
By the way,
Merry Christmas
Robert
yes, I can see this post from you,
You mean SeaMonkey not Thunderbird, don't
you?
I logged back into the 780 and it gave me this:
https://postimg.cc/cKLS1XTh
I tried to close it with Task Manager but it wouldn't
let me. So I clicked remind me in 3 days. Should I
click continue next time? See what I mean? All this
crap is getting in the way of finishing Sea Monkey
and more to do.
I'm all confused and Sea Monkey is messed up nothing
is working and I tried to create a new USENET with
paganini. bofh.team.rc but it didn't connect.
https://postimg.cc/tZ6m960D # Need to use Notepad for this
https://postimg.cc/64wzw1f5
https://postimg.cc/1f7TcsKG
https://postimg.cc/kV3Tf4Rb # account actions, remove that
https://postimg.cc/vg6HM0Hj
What do I do now?
Robert
What do I do now?
Robert
The 780 doesn't have Agent Ransack, I haven't moved
my bookmarks or my documents or downloaded anything
except FF.
So I grabbed the link to download it onto the 780 via Patriot
and the other account that's logged into everything wouldn't
let me install Agent Ransack without a Pin number. Should I go
ahead and reset the damn thing because its interfering with
everything I'm trying to do. I can't move forward because
of all these pop-ups and problems while time is running out.
https://postimg.cc/k611jDzP
https://postimg.cc/JDGSJ94q
https://postimg.cc/7fgdg1Dp
https://postimg.cc/Q99nV10Y
https://postimg.cc/rKLYFdWg
https://postimg.cc/bGdmF1cY
I also need to get off this Admin Account
when you say remove this are you saying not use it or are
you saying unsubscribe?
I'm trying to follow your instructions,....
Robert
Here is the post again
You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:
https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4
I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
see?
https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy
https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm
https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT
https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y
https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0
https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG
https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz
https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9
https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW
Robert
There's two Admin Accounts, there's mine and
another by the name of John. I have no idea
where it came from. That's the Admin Account that's
interfering with everything.
As I said, the guy who refurbished the 780 or who did
Win 10 upgrade put his account on all this I believe. I
guess they didn't expect anyone to do what were doing
and that's why all the pin numbers.
You lost me,...even after I re-read your instructions,..
all I got was you want me to go into safe mode. All
this sounds very tricky,...and I'm getting confused at
just what to do and where. I"m trying to follow along.
btw I have another 780 Win 10 hd that may not be screwed
up. We could put that in and see if it downloads the Agent
Ransack without doing anything else.
What do you think? What do you want me to do ?
Robert
The hack consists of using the Repair : Troubleshoot : Command Prompt on
a Win10 installer DVD, to carry out the replacement of "sethc.exe" with "cmd.exe".
This gives you permission to copy files in a sensitive area.
Then, by shift-restarting and selecting Safe Mode, that allows the computer to come up without Windows Defender running and ruining the hack. Pressing the shift key five times in quick succession, triggers sticky keys,
sethc.exe tries to run, but since it has been replaced with
a copy of cmd.exe, the cmd.exe runs, and it is running as administrator.
From the Command Prompt window, we can...
NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators
And that makes a new account belonging to the administrators group.
And it's all done without a PIN.
Later, you replace the fake "sethc.exe" with a copy of the real "sethc.exe". I had to do that from the Windows 10 installer and Command Prompt, as well. Doing it from the booted system, it likely would have needed TrustedInstaller.
I'm trying to follow along where I'm suppose to do the NET USER TEMP
and NET LOCAL GROUP,... I don't have a Win 10 installer DVD.
net user administrator /active:yes
Where do I find this out?
I tried to go in and view the user accounts
to see where we stand but there was no manage
accounts and then I tried the CMD prompt.
Does this help?
https://postimg.cc/yDBTSG7Z
https://postimg.cc/Q9pt5f8F
https://postimg.cc/K4D7hNPc
Robert
The other option is to change hd's and put the other 780 Win 10 hd in
and see if it has the same problems or is OK and we can use it and set
up a User Account on it. I would first have to download FF, then Agent Ransack, SeaMonkey and then we should be set to go.
But it should have Edge OS on it just like the current 780 did but
I wouldn't of signed off of it so there should be no passwords. It should
be like you say showing which Account you want to log into just like Win
7 and your link with Bullwinkle and yes I understand those accounts could each delete one another because they are both Admin but I'm just a User
on the 780.
The only way around the problem as I see it is to let me change the pin number. We can always try the other hd later.
Robert
If I signed out of my account on the
780 then I would probably see the
other accounts but that Admin utility
that it showed on the CMD prompt
was the first time I had seen it.
It shows me as just a User
The other user is the same one with all the pin
number pop-ups and I keep getting backup
pop-ups, and macrium updates all running off
his account because I tried to remove Macrium
but it required a pin number because I'm not a
Admin Account like I thought I was.
You want me to do this on the CMD prompt?
I agree, I do not want to be on Admin Account
which is why I wanted to create a User Account
but in effect that's what were doing.
I just tried to do a CMD prompt as Administrator
and it again asked for the pin number.
How about this. Why don't I try and reset the pin
number like I did the password otherwise we aren't
going to be able to do anything. Somehow everything
is tied up with this other user account and its pin
number. So let me reset it.
Once you say OK then I can should be able to do
everything you want me to do.
Robert
I was thinking, instead of spending more time on the
780 Win 10 hd, we should start fresh and switch back
to the 780 Win 7 hd and set it up. It has a Admin Account
and a User Account so there should be no problems. It
also has Agent Ransack and a older version of Seamonkey.
I'm worried about the time element and were spending
too much time on the 780 Win 10 in trying to get it to
work and time is running out.
Once we have the Win 7 OS's set up on the 780 and 8500
and able to post via Seamonkey then we can return to the
Win 10 OS's and spend more time and get them to work.
Our main priority is to get SeaMonkey to work so we
don't loose communication and the Win 7 OS is our best
chance of doing that.
What do you think?
Robert
I was thinking, instead of spending more time on the
780 Win 10 hd, we should start fresh and switch back
to the 780 Win 7 hd and set it up. It has a Admin Account
and a User Account so there should be no problems.
I'm worried about the time element and were spending
too much time on the 780 Win 10 in trying to get it to
work.
Once we have the Win 7 OS's set up on the 780 and 8500
and abe to post via Seamonkey then we can return to the
Win 10 OS and get them to work.
Our main priority is to get SeaMonkey to work so we
don't loose communication.
What do you think?
Robert
On 12/21/2023 4:39 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I was thinking, instead of spending more time on the
780 Win 10 hd, we should start fresh and switch back
to the 780 Win 7 hd and set it up. It has a Admin Account
and a User Account so there should be no problems.
I'm worried about the time element and were spending
too much time on the 780 Win 10 in trying to get it to
work.
Once we have the Win 7 OS's set up on the 780 and 8500
and abe to post via Seamonkey then we can return to the
Win 10 OS and get them to work.
Our main priority is to get SeaMonkey to work so we
don't loose communication.
What do you think?
Robert
They make software for brute-forcing the pin, but it
doesn't work if the TPM was used as part of the PIN setup.
When I set up a PIN on this machine, there is no evidence
the TPM was used for that. (A TPM has internal protected
storage for assets.)
https://www.passcape.com/windows_password_recovery_windows_hello_pin_recovery
I mean, it's a bit silly concept, but someone thinks they have
the code to do it. The last time I tried to crack a password with
free software, it said it would take 12 or 13 years to do it
(long password).
https://www.passcape.com/images/windows_hello_pin3.png
If you tried to force it through the normal login dialog...
"The TPM protects against a variety of known and potential attacks,
including PIN brute-force attacks. After too many incorrect guesses,
the device is locked."
But the machine probably does not have a TPM 2.0 so who knows
whether the OS used the older TPM at all, for anything on the 780.
These guys are good at it. On a 780, the PIN might well not be protected
by the TPM. If your Windows 10 machine has no functional TPM, then the
string needing cracking is in the SAM registry.
https://blog.elcomsoft.com/2022/08/windows-hello-no-tpm-no-security/
*******
While that's all amusing, let's get back to business.
You know how to set up Seamonkey now, and it won't take long to do
it on Windows 7. Your email should be on a separate piece of software,
and Seamonkey will just be for USENET News.
Paul
On 12/21/2023 4:39 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I was thinking, instead of spending more time on the
780 Win 10 hd, we should start fresh and switch back
to the 780 Win 7 hd and set it up. It has a Admin Account
and a User Account so there should be no problems.
I'm worried about the time element and were spending
too much time on the 780 Win 10 in trying to get it to
work.
Once we have the Win 7 OS's set up on the 780 and 8500
and abe to post via Seamonkey then we can return to the
Win 10 OS and get them to work.
Our main priority is to get SeaMonkey to work so we
don't loose communication.
What do you think?
Robert
They make software for brute-forcing the pin, but it
doesn't work if the TPM was used as part of the PIN setup.
When I set up a PIN on this machine, there is no evidence
the TPM was used for that. (A TPM has internal protected
storage for assets.)
https://www.passcape.com/windows_password_recovery_windows_hello_pin_recovery
I mean, it's a bit silly concept, but someone thinks they have
the code to do it. The last time I tried to crack a password with
free software, it said it would take 12 or 13 years to do it
(long password).
https://www.passcape.com/images/windows_hello_pin3.png
If you tried to force it through the normal login dialog...
"The TPM protects against a variety of known and potential attacks,
including PIN brute-force attacks. After too many incorrect guesses,
the device is locked."
But the machine probably does not have a TPM 2.0 so who knows
whether the OS used the older TPM at all, for anything on the 780.
These guys are good at it. On a 780, the PIN might well not be protected
by the TPM. If your Windows 10 machine has no functional TPM, then the
string needing cracking is in the SAM registry.
https://blog.elcomsoft.com/2022/08/windows-hello-no-tpm-no-security/
*******
While that's all amusing, let's get back to business.
You know how to set up Seamonkey now, and it won't take long to do
it on Windows 7. Your email should be on a separate piece of software,
and Seamonkey will just be for USENET News.
Paul
On 12/20/2023 7:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here is the post again
You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:
https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4
I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
see?
https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy
https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm
https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT
https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y
https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0
https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG
https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz
https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9
https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW
Robert
control /name Microsoft.UserAccounts
Then "Manage Another Account" to see the accounts that already exist [useful!] .
At the bottom of that page in light blue tiny letters, is "add a new user". But it vectors off to the new crap. [Not good]
*******
But you can already see what the solution is.
You need to open an administrators window.
Once you have hacked the machine, you will have such an account.
NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators
That makes an account TEMP which belongs to administrator group.
Paul
OK,.... I am able to post to you via
the 780 Seamonkey.
However if we do a clean install it
will wipe out everything we've done.
Please dont give me too much credit
for knowing how to do things. this
is all new for me and all technical
and I have a hard time trying to
remember. I'm trying to follow what you
what to do.
I'm still worried about the time element
but do you want me to do a clean install
since I can't hack the machine because it
asked for the pin number when I tried to open a
CMD prompt as Administrator.
Robert
I thought I shut down the 780 and took
a break but when I came back it had this
screen:
https://postimg.cc/9wVxpZ0Q
I read through the clean Windows install
and step 9 it asks for a product key to activate
Win 10. I don't have a product key. We just
upgraded from Win 7 when it was still free.
I says if I took advantage of the free offer use
the Windows 7 Product key I upgraded from.
Is that the number that's on the computer?
The process sure is lengthy and involved!
Holy crap this involves setting up drives and
partitions etc. network connections.. this is
literally from scratch and will take all our time
away when were on a time limit.
I still say for now, lets get the Win 7 Seamonkey
working or we can check out the other Win 10 hd
if you like and it might be in better shape than this
one but this would take allot of time to do and I
need the Win 7 operational the Win 10 hd's are not
that high of a priority right now. We can return to
this later but for right now I prefer to leave it as is.
At least I can post with it.
I suggest I switch hd's again and we set up Win 7
so it can post via Seamonkey.
Robert
On 12/20/2023 7:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here is the post again
You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:
https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4
I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
see?
https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy
https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm
https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT
https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y
https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0
https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG
https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz
https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9
https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW
Robert
control /name Microsoft.UserAccounts
Then "Manage Another Account" to see the accounts that already exist [useful!] .
At the bottom of that page in light blue tiny letters, is "add a new user". But it vectors off to the new crap. [Not good]
*******
But you can already see what the solution is.
You need to open an administrators window.
Once you have hacked the machine, you will have such an account.
NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators
That makes an account TEMP which belongs to administrator group.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 12/20/2023 7:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:This is to test if I can post to
Here is the post again
You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:
https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4
I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
see?
https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy
https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm
https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT
https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y
https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0
https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG
https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz
https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9
https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW
Robert
control /name Microsoft.UserAccounts
Then "Manage Another Account" to see the accounts that already exist [useful!] .
At the bottom of that page in light blue tiny letters, is "add a new user". >> But it vectors off to the new crap. [Not good]
*******
But you can already see what the solution is.
You need to open an administrators window.
Once you have hacked the machine, you will have such an account.
NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators
That makes an account TEMP which belongs to administrator group.
you on the 780 with Win 7.
Robert
Also after I download Seamonkey in Win 7 on both computer I
went into Windows Explorer couldn't find the downloads for
Windows Defender to scan it. I installed it anyway because the
same download had been scanned in Win 10.
but where do I scan downloads in Win 7 ?
I'm going to take a break for awhile,. Im tired.
Please let me know that you've seen my tests posts so I know
Seamonkey is working.
Many thanks,
Robert
On 12/21/2023 7:08 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I thought I shut down the 780 and took
a break but when I came back it had this
screen:
https://postimg.cc/9wVxpZ0Q
I read through the clean Windows install
and step 9 it asks for a product key to activate
Win 10. I don't have a product key. We just
upgraded from Win 7 when it was still free.
I says if I took advantage of the free offer use
the Windows 7 Product key I upgraded from.
Is that the number that's on the computer?
The process sure is lengthy and involved!
Holy crap this involves setting up drives and
partitions etc. network connections.. this is
literally from scratch and will take all our time
away when were on a time limit.
I still say for now, lets get the Win 7 Seamonkey
working or we can check out the other Win 10 hd
if you like and it might be in better shape than this
one but this would take allot of time to do and I
need the Win 7 operational the Win 10 hd's are not
that high of a priority right now. We can return to
this later but for right now I prefer to leave it as is.
At least I can post with it.
I suggest I switch hd's again and we set up Win 7
so it can post via Seamonkey.
Robert
This is not your first rodeo. You've already done the licensing
thing. For your install, you answer "I don't have a key" or "Skip".
Later in the procedure, the OS automatically takes care of all
of that. The idea is "don't sweat it when it asks for the key",
just hop past the key section and carry on. It's that simple :-)
At this point, if you want something to do, you could Google for
"download Windows 10" and get 22H2 via the "MediaCreationTool"
that is on the download page. If you have a DVD blank, you can
burn a DVD. Or, if you have a spare empty Patriot, you can put Windows 10
on that.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/software-download/windows10
Download tool now <+== MediaCreationTool
Using the tool to create installation media (USB flash drive, DVD,
or ISO file) to install Windows 10 on a different PC (click to show
more or less information)
You can also read my other post, and get me a picture of Disk Management.
I want to see what kind of a mess this job will be. Some of the installs
I've done, it has taken me half a day to move partitions around to
make the room for it.
Paul
Before we go further I need you to verify my posts from
Seamonkey. In fact, this post is from Seamonkey but I
sent several test posts earlier.
I need to know you're seeing this.
I clicked the other Rob to signon hoping it would be different
but it isn't. I don't understand why I should have two accounts
with the same name.?
I don't see how we can hack the 780 with a User account and the
Admin Account - WDA is a utility. Everything we try to do is
stopped by the other User's account's pin number. Even down
loading Agent Ransack or trying to delete Macrium.
https://postimg.cc/ZWFB3SSh
If I do a Clean Install I will be doing it blind,. of course I have the
8500 but this is going to take awhile and I know zero about setups, partitions etc
I just tried to create a MediaCreationTool and was stopped by the
pin number again because I'm on a User Account. The WDA is the
Admin Account. I don't see how we can do anything useful with this
780 Win 10 hd. I can't download anything on it without the pin coming
up. I'm surprised it let FF and SeaMonkey in.
We still have another 780 Win 10 that is the primary, what were working
on was a spare hd and maybe we should put the primary in and see what
it looks like? I also have the 8500 Win 10 but there's only (1) However,
I do have spare hd's so we could create another.
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
On 12/21/2023 8:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/20/2023 7:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here is the post again
You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:
https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4
I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
see?
https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy
https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm
https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT
https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y
https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0
https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG
https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz
https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9
https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW
Robert
control /name Microsoft.UserAccounts
Then "Manage Another Account" to see the accounts that already exist [useful!] .
At the bottom of that page in light blue tiny letters, is "add a new user". >>> But it vectors off to the new crap. [Not good]
*******
But you can already see what the solution is.
You need to open an administrators window.
Once you have hacked the machine, you will have such an account.
NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators
That makes an account TEMP which belongs to administrator group.
This is a test on the 8500 Win 7 to see if I
can post with Sea Monkey.
Robert
I can confirm that this arrived as well.
Paul
On 12/21/2023 8:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/20/2023 7:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here is the post again
You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:
https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4
I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
see?
https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy
https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm
https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT
https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y
https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0
https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG
https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz
https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9
https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW
Robert
control /name Microsoft.UserAccounts
Then "Manage Another Account" to see the accounts that already exist [useful!] .
At the bottom of that page in light blue tiny letters, is "add a new user". >>> But it vectors off to the new crap. [Not good]
*******
But you can already see what the solution is.
You need to open an administrators window.
Once you have hacked the machine, you will have such an account.
NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators
That makes an account TEMP which belongs to administrator group.
This is a test on the 8500 Win 7 to see if I
can post with Sea Monkey.
Robert
I can confirm that this arrived as well.
Paul
This is on the 8500 not Seamonkey.
I tried the hack:
https://postimg.cc/4HJf1b3B
https://postimg.cc/Mv36yBJm
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 12/21/2023 8:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/20/2023 7:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here is the post again
You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:
https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4
I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
see?
https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy
https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm
https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT
https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y
https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0
https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG
https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz
https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9
https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW
Robert
control /name Microsoft.UserAccounts
Then "Manage Another Account" to see the accounts that already exist [useful!] .
At the bottom of that page in light blue tiny letters, is "add a new user".
But it vectors off to the new crap. [Not good]
*******
But you can already see what the solution is.
You need to open an administrators window.
Once you have hacked the machine, you will have such an account.
NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators
That makes an account TEMP which belongs to administrator group.
This is a test on the 8500 Win 7 to see if I
can post with Sea Monkey.
Robert
I can confirm that this arrived as well.
Paul
This is the most current post I can find from you.
Let me switch the 780 Win 10 hd with the
master 780 Win 10 hd that we haven't put in
yet. It may be OK and we can do everything
you want without all this hassle.
We can always return to this Win 10 hd but
its not letting us do anything. It's a wonder we
got Spymonkey to work on it and maybe that
will be it's only function because it's not letting
us do anything else.
I could try and transfer my bookmarks and My
Documents etc to make it more usable and maybe
it will let me install Word and EXcell and Dell
Imagining but I wouldn't want to make mrimgs
for this hd.
The other Win 10 hd will probably have Edge
as well but I can put on FF after I scan it but
hopefully it won't have all these crazy accounts
and will be set up differently.
What do you think?
Robert
On 12/22/2023 1:01 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/21/2023 8:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/20/2023 7:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here is the post again
You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:
https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4
I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
see?
https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy
https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm
https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT
https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y
https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0
https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG
https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz
https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9
https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW
Robert
control /name Microsoft.UserAccounts
Then "Manage Another Account" to see the accounts that already exist [useful!] .
At the bottom of that page in light blue tiny letters, is "add a new user".
But it vectors off to the new crap. [Not good]
*******
But you can already see what the solution is.
You need to open an administrators window.
Once you have hacked the machine, you will have such an account.
NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators
That makes an account TEMP which belongs to administrator group.
This is a test on the 8500 Win 7 to see if I
can post with Sea Monkey.
Robert
I can confirm that this arrived as well.
Paul
This is the most current post I can find from you.
Let me switch the 780 Win 10 hd with the
master 780 Win 10 hd that we haven't put in
yet. It may be OK and we can do everything
you want without all this hassle.
We can always return to this Win 10 hd but
its not letting us do anything. It's a wonder we
got Spymonkey to work on it and maybe that
will be it's only function because it's not letting
us do anything else.
I could try and transfer my bookmarks and My
Documents etc to make it more usable and maybe
it will let me install Word and EXcell and Dell
Imagining but I wouldn't want to make mrimgs
for this hd.
The other Win 10 hd will probably have Edge
as well but I can put on FF after I scan it but
hopefully it won't have all these crazy accounts
and will be set up differently.
What do you think?
Robert
It will let us do things. You have to be patient.
If you don't see the post, use your browser and the post is here.
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cum3iid%24u5tk%241%40paganini.bofh.team%3E
It uses a Macrium CD for part of the hack.
Paul
Did you see this?
I clicked the other Rob to signon hoping it would be different
but it isn't. I don't understand why I should have two accounts
with the same name.?
I don't see how we can hack the 780 with a User account and the
Admin Account - WDA is a utility. Everything we try to do is
stopped by the other User's account's pin number. Even down
loading Agent Ransack or trying to delete Macrium.
https://postimg.cc/ZWFB3SSh
If I do a Clean Install I will be doing it blind,. of course I have the
8500 but this is going to take awhile and I know zero about setups, partitions etc
I just tried to create a MediaCreationTool and was stopped by the
pin number again because I'm on a User Account. The WDA is the
Admin Account. I don't see how we can do anything useful with this
780 Win 10 hd. I can't download anything on it without the pin coming
up. I'm surprised it let FF and SeaMonkey in.
We still have another 780 Win 10 that is the primary, what were working
on was a spare hd and maybe we should put the primary in and see what
it looks like? I also have the 8500 Win 10 but there's only (1) However,
I do have spare hd's so we could create another.
Since it wouldn't download the mediacreationtool in Win 10
I switched hd again and put in the 780 Win 7 hd. I'm not going
to mess with the 8500 doing this. It's still not letting me and finally
came up with two different error messages after I restarted it and tried
a 3rd time.
https://postimg.cc/q6h5XBqv
https://postimg.cc/8fMbz7sM
https://postimg.cc/HV02G8qC
https://postimg.cc/njQ43X4g
https://postimg.cc/ykKmTYkp
https://postimg.cc/QFYsbCxp
https://postimg.cc/tZBhR83d
I just read your instructions for hacking,.. allot to take in...
I'll have to re-read it a couple of times. You want me to use
my 780 Rescue CD to gain access to the cmd prompt to make
the changes then verify my account has been elevated and change
it back. correct?
I don't see from the instructions how to restart Windows boot
manager and I've never seen these safe modes before. Also where
it's asking for the password and the next I'm entering commands
in a command prompt. How did I get there?
Am I entering those same commands?
Thanks,..
Merry Christmas
Robert
I completed the MediaCreationTool download
but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
options for the Patriot.
https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP
https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn
https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH
https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8
Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.
I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
double sided DVD's.
Robert
On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I completed the MediaCreationTool download
but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
options for the Patriot.
https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP
https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn
https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH
https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8
Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.
I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
double sided DVD's.
Robert
The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.
DVD-R SL 4,707,319,808
DVD+R SL 4,700,372,992
DVD-R DL 8,543,666,176
DVD+R DL 8,547,991,552
The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie . Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.
You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media.
It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E
md F:\WORK # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK
# Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.
sources\
efi\
...
autorun.inf
# First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\
F:\WORK\sources\ # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.
# The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
# The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.
oscdimg ... F:\WORK F:\W190364.iso # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
# For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .
*******
For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.
# your boot error
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)
Paul
On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I completed the MediaCreationTool download
but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
options for the Patriot.
https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP
https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn
https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH
https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8
Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.
I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
double sided DVD's.
Robert
The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.
DVD-R SL 4,707,319,808
DVD+R SL 4,700,372,992
DVD-R DL 8,543,666,176
DVD+R DL 8,547,991,552
The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie . Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.
You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media.
It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E
md F:\WORK # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK
# Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.
sources\
efi\
...
autorun.inf
# First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\
F:\WORK\sources\ # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.
# The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
# The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.
oscdimg ... F:\WORK F:\W190364.iso # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
# For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .
*******
For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.
# your boot error
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I completed the MediaCreationTool download
but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
options for the Patriot.
https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP
https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn
https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH
https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8
Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.
I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
double sided DVD's.
Robert
The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.
DVD-R SL 4,707,319,808
DVD+R SL 4,700,372,992
DVD-R DL 8,543,666,176
DVD+R DL 8,547,991,552
The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie .
Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.
You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media. >>
It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E
md F:\WORK # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK
# Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.
sources\
efi\
...
autorun.inf
# First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\
F:\WORK\sources\ # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.
# The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
# The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.
oscdimg ... F:\WORK F:\W190364.iso # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
# For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .
*******
For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.
# your boot error
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)
Paul
Do I have this sequence right?want me to do?
• select settings
• select update/security
• select recovery - restart now
• select Troubleshoot
• select advanced options
• select start-up settings
• I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
• in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands
cd Windows\System32
ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
copy cmd.exe sethc .exe
• close CMD prompt
• re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4 (I've never seen those startup settings before)
There's is no shut down/restart command in macrium. When doing mrimgs I usually
remove the CD from the drive. Then close Macrium and wait for the screen to go black and then pull the USB connection then I get the WBM screen. So I would still close macrium and then when it restarts I could select Safe mode then. Is that what you
I see you have a new account Lowboy your using so will I also have a new account
that I will be using but can I still access the CMD prompt without logging in ?
• enter commands
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
• press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged in yet
• verify account has changed to Administrator
• re-boot with Rescue media
• select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack
C:
cd Windows\System 32
del sethc.exe
ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe
Robert
Paul wrote:want me to do?
On 12/23/2023 1:37 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I completed the MediaCreationTool download
but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
options for the Patriot.
https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP
https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn
https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH
https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8
Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.
I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
double sided DVD's.
Robert
The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.
DVD-R SL 4,707,319,808
DVD+R SL 4,700,372,992
DVD-R DL 8,543,666,176
DVD+R DL 8,547,991,552
The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie . >>>> Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.
You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media. >>>>
It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E
md F:\WORK # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK
# Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.
sources\
efi\
...
autorun.inf
# First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\ >>>>
F:\WORK\sources\ # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.
# The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
# The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.
oscdimg ... F:\WORK F:\W190364.iso # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
# For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .
*******
For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.
# your boot error
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)
Paul
Do I have this sequence right?
• select settings
• select update/security
• select recovery - restart now
• select Troubleshoot
• select advanced options
• select start-up settings
• I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
• in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands
cd Windows\System32
ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
copy cmd.exe sethc .exe
• close CMD prompt
• re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4 (I've never seen those startup settings before)
There's is no shut down/restart command in macrium. When doing mrimgs I usually
remove the CD from the drive. Then close Macrium and wait for the screen to go black and then pull the USB connection then I get the WBM screen. So I would still close macrium and then when it restarts I could select Safe mode then. Is that what you
I see you have a new account Lowboy your using so will I also have a new account
that I will be using but can I still access the CMD prompt without logging in ?
• enter commands
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
• press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged in yet
• verify account has changed to Administrator
• re-boot with Rescue media
• select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack
C:
cd Windows\System 32
del sethc.exe
ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe
Robert
This sequence, needs C: as the first line. You MUST switch to the
C: partition, before the other three commands. There are four lines of input.
The first line has the two characters in it.
C: # This changes to the C: partition
cd Windows\System32 # Current directory is C:\Windows\System32
ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak # This renames the original file, for safe keeping
copy cmd.exe sethc.exe # This places cmd.exe in place of sethc.exe file, as a "fake"
*******
Macrium does have a selector for shutdown/restart. It's in
newer versions of the Macrium Rescue CD. It is the red button
in the lower left corner. Clicking it, if there is a selector, it
will have as options "Reboot" or "Shutdown" showing in a tiny dialog box.
That's where you get to select it.
*******
When you have the Administrator level window to work in, you can
do anything you want. This sequence for example, adds a new account
that has administrator rights. This account is TEMP. And the
password is "qwerty1".
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD >>
You could do a third line at that time, like this. This would
add the account "Rob" to the Administrators group. This assumes
the "Rob" account already exists. That's why the command only
has the one line. "Rob" must exist and be a working account, for this
to be worth doing.
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD
See how easy this is ? And how much fun ?
Do not be distracted by the accounts showing in my diagram.
("Lowboy" is the unelevated account, I use to "test for handcuffs" in the OS.)
What happens to the computer during this procedure, does not "rely" on the account choices.
What matters, is entering those commands in the Administrator window.
That's why we're doing the hack, is to regain control of the computer
so we can do other important work.
Once the hack lines are entered, you can type "exit" into the
Administrator window, or you can click the "X" in the upper left
corner of that window. You can log into any account showing
for fun if you want (lower left corner choices). If everything
is working, when you reboot the computer, any changes should
now be working, and say, the Rob account could have new Administrator privileges.
That's what this is for. Getting away from entering some foreign-account PIN.
We need an account which you control, to have Administrators privileges.
Paul
Do I have this sequence right now?
• select settings
• select update/security
• select recovery - restart now
• select Troubleshoot
• select advanced options
• select start-up settings
• I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
• in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands
C:
cd Windows\System32
ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
copy cmd.exe sethc .exe
• close CMD prompt
• re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4
• at CMD prompt enter commands
C:
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
• press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged
in yet
• verify account has changed to Administrator
• re-boot with Rescue media
• select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack
C:
cd Windows\System 32
del sethc.exe
ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe
I can just leave the Rescue CD in when I reboot
and just not select it or do you think its better I take it
out before I reboot to the WBM?.
Once we have it working as Admin Account I can go into
the CMD prompt and do
C:
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD
could I make my own like this as a simple example? What would this do?
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user Robert abc123 /ADD
Robert
On 12/23/2023 1:37 PM, Robert in CA wrote:want me to do?
Paul wrote:
On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I completed the MediaCreationTool download
but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
options for the Patriot.
https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP
https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn
https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH
https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8
Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.
I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
double sided DVD's.
Robert
The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.
DVD-R SL 4,707,319,808
DVD+R SL 4,700,372,992
DVD-R DL 8,543,666,176
DVD+R DL 8,547,991,552
The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie .
Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.
You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media. >>>
It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E
md F:\WORK # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK
# Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.
sources\
efi\
...
autorun.inf
# First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\
F:\WORK\sources\ # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.
# The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
# The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.
oscdimg ... F:\WORK F:\W190364.iso # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
# For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .
*******
For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.
# your boot error
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)
Paul
Do I have this sequence right?
• select settings
• select update/security
• select recovery - restart now
• select Troubleshoot
• select advanced options
• select start-up settings
• I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
• in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands
cd Windows\System32
ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
copy cmd.exe sethc .exe
• close CMD prompt
• re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4 (I've never seen those startup settings before)
There's is no shut down/restart command in macrium. When doing mrimgs I usually
remove the CD from the drive. Then close Macrium and wait for the screen to go black and then pull the USB connection then I get the WBM screen. So I would still close macrium and then when it restarts I could select Safe mode then. Is that what you
I see you have a new account Lowboy your using so will I also have a new account
that I will be using but can I still access the CMD prompt without logging in ?
• enter commands
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
• press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged in yet
• verify account has changed to Administrator
• re-boot with Rescue media
• select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack
C:
cd Windows\System 32
del sethc.exe
ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe
Robert
This sequence, needs C: as the first line. You MUST switch to the
C: partition, before the other three commands. There are four lines of input. The first line has the two characters in it.
C: # This changes to the C: partition
cd Windows\System32 # Current directory is C:\Windows\System32
ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak # This renames the original file, for safe keeping
copy cmd.exe sethc.exe # This places cmd.exe in place of sethc.exe file, as a "fake"
*******
Macrium does have a selector for shutdown/restart. It's in
newer versions of the Macrium Rescue CD. It is the red button
in the lower left corner. Clicking it, if there is a selector, it
will have as options "Reboot" or "Shutdown" showing in a tiny dialog box. That's where you get to select it.
*******
When you have the Administrator level window to work in, you can
do anything you want. This sequence for example, adds a new account
that has administrator rights. This account is TEMP. And the
password is "qwerty1".
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
You could do a third line at that time, like this. This would
add the account "Rob" to the Administrators group. This assumes
the "Rob" account already exists. That's why the command only
has the one line. "Rob" must exist and be a working account, for this
to be worth doing.
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD
See how easy this is ? And how much fun ?
Do not be distracted by the accounts showing in my diagram.
("Lowboy" is the unelevated account, I use to "test for handcuffs" in the OS.)
What happens to the computer during this procedure, does not "rely" on the account choices.
What matters, is entering those commands in the Administrator window.
That's why we're doing the hack, is to regain control of the computer
so we can do other important work.
Once the hack lines are entered, you can type "exit" into the
Administrator window, or you can click the "X" in the upper left
corner of that window. You can log into any account showing
for fun if you want (lower left corner choices). If everything
is working, when you reboot the computer, any changes should
now be working, and say, the Rob account could have new Administrator privileges.
That's what this is for. Getting away from entering some foreign-account PIN. We need an account which you control, to have Administrators privileges.
Paul
On 12/24/2023 1:33 AM, Robert in CA wrote:want me to do?
Paul wrote:
On 12/23/2023 1:37 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I completed the MediaCreationTool download
but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
options for the Patriot.
https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP
https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn
https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH
https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8
Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.
I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
double sided DVD's.
Robert
The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.
DVD-R SL 4,707,319,808
DVD+R SL 4,700,372,992
DVD-R DL 8,543,666,176
DVD+R DL 8,547,991,552
The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie . >>>>> Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.
You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media.
It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E
md F:\WORK # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK
# Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.
sources\
efi\
...
autorun.inf
# First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\ >>>>>
F:\WORK\sources\ # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.
# The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
# The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.
oscdimg ... F:\WORK F:\W190364.iso # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
# For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .
*******
For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.
# your boot error
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)
Paul
Do I have this sequence right?
• select settings
• select update/security
• select recovery - restart now
• select Troubleshoot
• select advanced options
• select start-up settings
• I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
• in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands
cd Windows\System32
ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
copy cmd.exe sethc .exe
• close CMD prompt
• re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4 (I've never seen those startup settings before)
There's is no shut down/restart command in macrium. When doing mrimgs I usually
remove the CD from the drive. Then close Macrium and wait for the screen to go black and then pull the USB connection then I get the WBM screen. So I would still close macrium and then when it restarts I could select Safe mode then. Is that what you
I see you have a new account Lowboy your using so will I also have a new account
that I will be using but can I still access the CMD prompt without logging in ?
• enter commands
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
• press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged in yet
• verify account has changed to Administrator
• re-boot with Rescue media
• select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack
C:
cd Windows\System 32
del sethc.exe
ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe
Robert
This sequence, needs C: as the first line. You MUST switch to the
C: partition, before the other three commands. There are four lines of input.
The first line has the two characters in it.
C: # This changes to the C: partition
cd Windows\System32 # Current directory is C:\Windows\System32
ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak # This renames the original file, for safe keeping
copy cmd.exe sethc.exe # This places cmd.exe in place of sethc.exe file, as a "fake"
*******
Macrium does have a selector for shutdown/restart. It's in
newer versions of the Macrium Rescue CD. It is the red button
in the lower left corner. Clicking it, if there is a selector, it
will have as options "Reboot" or "Shutdown" showing in a tiny dialog box. >>> That's where you get to select it.
*******
When you have the Administrator level window to work in, you can
do anything you want. This sequence for example, adds a new account
that has administrator rights. This account is TEMP. And the
password is "qwerty1".
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
You could do a third line at that time, like this. This would
add the account "Rob" to the Administrators group. This assumes
the "Rob" account already exists. That's why the command only
has the one line. "Rob" must exist and be a working account, for this
to be worth doing.
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD
See how easy this is ? And how much fun ?
Do not be distracted by the accounts showing in my diagram.
("Lowboy" is the unelevated account, I use to "test for handcuffs" in the OS.)
What happens to the computer during this procedure, does not "rely" on the account choices.
What matters, is entering those commands in the Administrator window.
That's why we're doing the hack, is to regain control of the computer
so we can do other important work.
Once the hack lines are entered, you can type "exit" into the
Administrator window, or you can click the "X" in the upper left
corner of that window. You can log into any account showing
for fun if you want (lower left corner choices). If everything
is working, when you reboot the computer, any changes should
now be working, and say, the Rob account could have new Administrator privileges.
That's what this is for. Getting away from entering some foreign-account PIN.
We need an account which you control, to have Administrators privileges. >>>
Paul
Do I have this sequence right now?
• select settings
• select update/security
• select recovery - restart now
• select Troubleshoot
• select advanced options
• select start-up settings
• I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
• in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands
C:
cd Windows\System32
ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
copy cmd.exe sethc .exe
• close CMD prompt
• re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4
• at CMD prompt enter commands
C:
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
• press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged >> in yet
• verify account has changed to Administrator
• re-boot with Rescue media
• select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack
C:
cd Windows\System 32
del sethc.exe
ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe
I can just leave the Rescue CD in when I reboot
and just not select it or do you think its better I take it
out before I reboot to the WBM?.
Once we have it working as Admin Account I can go into
the CMD prompt and do
C:
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD
could I make my own like this as a simple example? What would this do?
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user Robert abc123 /ADD
Robert
That last command, makes an un-elevated user Robert.
You need a second line after it, so it is elevated.
net user Robert abc123 /ADD # Create Robert account with password abc123
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Robert /ADD # Add Robert to the Administrators group
And be careful of your syntax, OK ?
No more of those excess space characters.
This part of the command, is already on the screen.
It's the "prompt" and it shows the current working directory, then a greater-than symbol.
You don't type this part.
C:\WINDOWS\system32>
The letters you type, are this much.
net user Robert abc123 /ADD
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Robert /ADD
Those commands do not have any particular dependency on the working directory.
However, the Macrium file copy work, it *does* depend on the working directory
being done correctly. The Macrium environment boots to X: and then
we have to change the Macrium path to C: to get the commands carried
out on the C: drive. (The X: directory is transient, and it disappears
as soon as Macrium is shut down. Whereas C: is always with us.)
Paul
On 12/24/2023 1:33 AM, Robert in CA wrote:want me to do?
Paul wrote:
On 12/23/2023 1:37 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I completed the MediaCreationTool download
but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
options for the Patriot.
https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP
https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn
https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH
https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8
Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.
I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
double sided DVD's.
Robert
The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.
DVD-R SL 4,707,319,808
DVD+R SL 4,700,372,992
DVD-R DL 8,543,666,176
DVD+R DL 8,547,991,552
The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie . >>>>> Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.
You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media.
It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E
md F:\WORK # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK
# Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.
sources\
efi\
...
autorun.inf
# First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\ >>>>>
F:\WORK\sources\ # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.
# The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
# The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.
oscdimg ... F:\WORK F:\W190364.iso # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
# For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .
*******
For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.
# your boot error
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)
Paul
Do I have this sequence right?
• select settings
• select update/security
• select recovery - restart now
• select Troubleshoot
• select advanced options
• select start-up settings
• I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
• in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands
cd Windows\System32
ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
copy cmd.exe sethc .exe
• close CMD prompt
• re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4 (I've never seen those startup settings before)
There's is no shut down/restart command in macrium. When doing mrimgs I usually
remove the CD from the drive. Then close Macrium and wait for the screen to go black and then pull the USB connection then I get the WBM screen. So I would still close macrium and then when it restarts I could select Safe mode then. Is that what you
I see you have a new account Lowboy your using so will I also have a new account
that I will be using but can I still access the CMD prompt without logging in ?
• enter commands
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
• press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged in yet
• verify account has changed to Administrator
• re-boot with Rescue media
• select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack
C:
cd Windows\System 32
del sethc.exe
ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe
Robert
This sequence, needs C: as the first line. You MUST switch to the
C: partition, before the other three commands. There are four lines of input.
The first line has the two characters in it.
C: # This changes to the C: partition
cd Windows\System32 # Current directory is C:\Windows\System32
ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak # This renames the original file, for safe keeping
copy cmd.exe sethc.exe # This places cmd.exe in place of sethc.exe file, as a "fake"
*******
Macrium does have a selector for shutdown/restart. It's in
newer versions of the Macrium Rescue CD. It is the red button
in the lower left corner. Clicking it, if there is a selector, it
will have as options "Reboot" or "Shutdown" showing in a tiny dialog box. >>> That's where you get to select it.
*******
When you have the Administrator level window to work in, you can
do anything you want. This sequence for example, adds a new account
that has administrator rights. This account is TEMP. And the
password is "qwerty1".
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
You could do a third line at that time, like this. This would
add the account "Rob" to the Administrators group. This assumes
the "Rob" account already exists. That's why the command only
has the one line. "Rob" must exist and be a working account, for this
to be worth doing.
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD
See how easy this is ? And how much fun ?
Do not be distracted by the accounts showing in my diagram.
("Lowboy" is the unelevated account, I use to "test for handcuffs" in the OS.)
What happens to the computer during this procedure, does not "rely" on the account choices.
What matters, is entering those commands in the Administrator window.
That's why we're doing the hack, is to regain control of the computer
so we can do other important work.
Once the hack lines are entered, you can type "exit" into the
Administrator window, or you can click the "X" in the upper left
corner of that window. You can log into any account showing
for fun if you want (lower left corner choices). If everything
is working, when you reboot the computer, any changes should
now be working, and say, the Rob account could have new Administrator privileges.
That's what this is for. Getting away from entering some foreign-account PIN.
We need an account which you control, to have Administrators privileges. >>>
Paul
Do I have this sequence right now?
• select settings
• select update/security
• select recovery - restart now
• select Troubleshoot
• select advanced options
• select start-up settings
• I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
• in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands
C:
cd Windows\System32
ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
copy cmd.exe sethc .exe
• close CMD prompt
• re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4
• at CMD prompt enter commands
C:
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
• press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged >> in yet
• verify account has changed to Administrator
• re-boot with Rescue media
• select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack
C:
cd Windows\System 32
del sethc.exe
ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe
I can just leave the Rescue CD in when I reboot
and just not select it or do you think its better I take it
out before I reboot to the WBM?.
Once we have it working as Admin Account I can go into
the CMD prompt and do
C:
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD
could I make my own like this as a simple example? What would this do?
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user Robert abc123 /ADD
Robert
That last command, makes an un-elevated user Robert.
You need a second line after it, so it is elevated.
net user Robert abc123 /ADD # Create Robert account with password abc123
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Robert /ADD # Add Robert to the Administrators group
And be careful of your syntax, OK ?
No more of those excess space characters.
This part of the command, is already on the screen.
It's the "prompt" and it shows the current working directory, then a greater-than symbol.
You don't type this part.
C:\WINDOWS\system32>
The letters you type, are this much.
net user Robert abc123 /ADD
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Robert /ADD
Those commands do not have any particular dependency on the working directory.
However, the Macrium file copy work, it *does* depend on the working directory
being done correctly. The Macrium environment boots to X: and then
we have to change the Macrium path to C: to get the commands carried
out on the C: drive. (The X: directory is transient, and it disappears
as soon as Macrium is shut down. Whereas C: is always with us.)
Paul
I also got this error on the newsgroup.
I've gotten a couple like this.
https://postimg.cc/V5cbBR0n
Robert
I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
pressing:
re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4
It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
your instructions.
Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
prompt from macrium?
Robert
I tried it and everything went OK until the end where
I had to sign-in because it had no CMD prompt access
at that point.
https://postimg.cc/qh3gXfQ2
https://postimg.cc/MvWKXjk7
https://postimg.cc/hf5hXb9k
https://postimg.cc/XpG4zMCP
https://postimg.cc/HJ3qL3M5
https://postimg.cc/1VF7DK8v
https://postimg.cc/v4hq7Tmw
https://postimg.cc/zbs0DRxK
https://postimg.cc/z3hxt0fj
https://postimg.cc/KkPJz8wW
https://postimg.cc/RNk6PLNc
So what do I do now?
Robert
On 12/24/2023 2:51 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I also got this error on the newsgroup.
I've gotten a couple like this.
https://postimg.cc/V5cbBR0n
Robert
Paganini likely has defensive measures, and something your
client is doing may have triggered it. Or, another theory
would be, it is something related to the SeaMonkey code.
Modern INN servers, they use transient connections. The
client makes a connection, carries out a few commands, and the
server drops the connection.
This is unlike in the old days, where a news client would stay
connected for fifteen minutes perhaps, before a connection would
drop.
This method allows the server to support more connections, because
each connection has a short holding time.
If you violate one of the service rules (say, more than 1200
connections a day, more than so many posted messages), then one
of these free servers can block your IP for a whole day.
Some servers lack a web page, so you can hardly guess how
they work in that case.
I've never had a problem with that sort of thing, and it is
hard to debug a problem like that unless it is reproducible.
The news client should do a few things, before popping a 10060.
It should be verifying the connection is up or down, if the
connection is down, it repeats the authentication procedure and
brings the connection back up. Well, this server has no authentication procedure. But you do have to issue commands in a certain order
to make the server work. On the first access, the server may
return a 200 status. And then more commands can be issued, to
update the message lists. So rather than authentication, it
would at least have to do the preamble again, in order to honor
the command you're trying to run (which might be a POST attempt).
Since you're on Port 119 (Plaintext) on the server, you could use
Wireshark to watch the network protocol. That's how I learned what
the messages look like. Portions of them are in plain text and
you can figure out how it is going, by watching the text. I'm not
expecting you to do that, but that's just so you know what the
analysis would be like. It would be Wireshark. And that works on
Port 119. If it was another port number, like 563, then you couldn't
follow along.
Paul
On 12/24/2023 1:33 AM, Robert in CA wrote:want me to do?
Paul wrote:
On 12/23/2023 1:37 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I completed the MediaCreationTool download
but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
options for the Patriot.
https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP
https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn
https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH
https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8
Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.
I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
double sided DVD's.
Robert
The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.
DVD-R SL 4,707,319,808
DVD+R SL 4,700,372,992
DVD-R DL 8,543,666,176
DVD+R DL 8,547,991,552
The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie . >>>>> Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.
You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media.
It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E
md F:\WORK # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK
# Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.
sources\
efi\
...
autorun.inf
# First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\ >>>>>
F:\WORK\sources\ # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.
# The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
# The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.
oscdimg ... F:\WORK F:\W190364.iso # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
# For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .
*******
For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.
# your boot error
https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg
Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)
Paul
Do I have this sequence right?
• select settings
• select update/security
• select recovery - restart now
• select Troubleshoot
• select advanced options
• select start-up settings
• I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
• in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands
cd Windows\System32
ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
copy cmd.exe sethc .exe
• close CMD prompt
• re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4 (I've never seen those startup settings before)
There's is no shut down/restart command in macrium. When doing mrimgs I usually
remove the CD from the drive. Then close Macrium and wait for the screen to go black and then pull the USB connection then I get the WBM screen. So I would still close macrium and then when it restarts I could select Safe mode then. Is that what you
I see you have a new account Lowboy your using so will I also have a new account
that I will be using but can I still access the CMD prompt without logging in ?
• enter commands
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
• press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged in yet
• verify account has changed to Administrator
• re-boot with Rescue media
• select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack
C:
cd Windows\System 32
del sethc.exe
ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe
Robert
This sequence, needs C: as the first line. You MUST switch to the
C: partition, before the other three commands. There are four lines of input.
The first line has the two characters in it.
C: # This changes to the C: partition
cd Windows\System32 # Current directory is C:\Windows\System32
ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak # This renames the original file, for safe keeping
copy cmd.exe sethc.exe # This places cmd.exe in place of sethc.exe file, as a "fake"
*******
Macrium does have a selector for shutdown/restart. It's in
newer versions of the Macrium Rescue CD. It is the red button
in the lower left corner. Clicking it, if there is a selector, it
will have as options "Reboot" or "Shutdown" showing in a tiny dialog box. >>> That's where you get to select it.
*******
When you have the Administrator level window to work in, you can
do anything you want. This sequence for example, adds a new account
that has administrator rights. This account is TEMP. And the
password is "qwerty1".
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
You could do a third line at that time, like this. This would
add the account "Rob" to the Administrators group. This assumes
the "Rob" account already exists. That's why the command only
has the one line. "Rob" must exist and be a working account, for this
to be worth doing.
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD
See how easy this is ? And how much fun ?
Do not be distracted by the accounts showing in my diagram.
("Lowboy" is the unelevated account, I use to "test for handcuffs" in the OS.)
What happens to the computer during this procedure, does not "rely" on the account choices.
What matters, is entering those commands in the Administrator window.
That's why we're doing the hack, is to regain control of the computer
so we can do other important work.
Once the hack lines are entered, you can type "exit" into the
Administrator window, or you can click the "X" in the upper left
corner of that window. You can log into any account showing
for fun if you want (lower left corner choices). If everything
is working, when you reboot the computer, any changes should
now be working, and say, the Rob account could have new Administrator privileges.
That's what this is for. Getting away from entering some foreign-account PIN.
We need an account which you control, to have Administrators privileges. >>>
Paul
Do I have this sequence right now?
• select settings
• select update/security
• select recovery - restart now
• select Troubleshoot
• select advanced options
• select start-up settings
• I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
• in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands
C:
cd Windows\System32
ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
copy cmd.exe sethc .exe
• close CMD prompt
• re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4
• at CMD prompt enter commands
C:
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
• press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged >> in yet
• verify account has changed to Administrator
• re-boot with Rescue media
• select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack
C:
cd Windows\System 32
del sethc.exe
ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe
I can just leave the Rescue CD in when I reboot
and just not select it or do you think its better I take it
out before I reboot to the WBM?.
Once we have it working as Admin Account I can go into
the CMD prompt and do
C:
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD
could I make my own like this as a simple example? What would this do?
C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user Robert abc123 /ADD
Robert
That last command, makes an un-elevated user Robert.
You need a second line after it, so it is elevated.
net user Robert abc123 /ADD # Create Robert account with password abc123
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Robert /ADD # Add Robert to the Administrators group
And be careful of your syntax, OK ?
No more of those excess space characters.
This part of the command, is already on the screen.
It's the "prompt" and it shows the current working directory, then a greater-than symbol.
You don't type this part.
C:\WINDOWS\system32>
The letters you type, are this much.
net user Robert abc123 /ADD
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Robert /ADD
Those commands do not have any particular dependency on the working directory.
However, the Macrium file copy work, it *does* depend on the working directory
being done correctly. The Macrium environment boots to X: and then
we have to change the Macrium path to C: to get the commands carried
out on the C: drive. (The X: directory is transient, and it disappears
as soon as Macrium is shut down. Whereas C: is always with us.)
Paul
On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
pressing:
re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4
It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
your instructions.
Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
prompt from macrium?
Robert
When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear.
Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft
didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing.
Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
for machine control.
MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.
If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member.
You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password
is absolutely necessary.
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e
Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.
Paul
I tried to finish the procedure by using the Rescue media
to access the CMD prompt. I did the first command wrong but
the second time it also rejected it.
https://postimg.cc/7C5XrVqm
I also got one of the error messages again before I posted
this.
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
pressing:
re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4
It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
your instructions.
Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
prompt from macrium?
Robert
When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear.
Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft
didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing.
Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
for machine control.
MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.
If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member.
You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password
is absolutely necessary.
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e
Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.
Paul
I tried again but it said there was already a user by that name so I restarted it but it came up with the menu and I pressed safe mode 4 and this time I tapped 5 times and the CMD
prompt appeared. However it didn't like the commands.
It already had
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>
so I just added, net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
thus
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
It said DNS server not authoritative for zone
I tried it again and then is said
https://postimg.cc/jwbR3fk2
https://postimg.cc/jCRszz7k
The user name could not be found
so I exited, and rebooted the computer.
Were getting closer but still not there and because I tried
before the computer remembers it sees the other user name.
Robert
On 12/24/2023 4:52 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
pressing:
re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4
It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
your instructions.
Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
prompt from macrium?
Robert
When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear.
Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft
didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing.
Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
for machine control.
MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.
If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member.
You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password
is absolutely necessary.
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e
Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.
Paul
I tried again but it said there was already a user by that name so I restarted it but it came up with the menu and I pressed safe mode 4 and this time I tapped 5 times and the CMD
prompt appeared. However it didn't like the commands.
It already had
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>
so I just added, net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
thus
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
It said DNS server not authoritative for zone
I tried it again and then is said
https://postimg.cc/jwbR3fk2
https://postimg.cc/jCRszz7k
The user name could not be found
so I exited, and rebooted the computer.
Were getting closer but still not there and because I tried
before the computer remembers it sees the other user name.
Robert
There is a space between the password and the next command
net user TEMP qwerty1 /ADD
^
|
+--- Space goes there. I used three spaces for emphasis.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 12/24/2023 4:52 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
pressing:
re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4
It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
your instructions.
Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
prompt from macrium?
Robert
When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear.
Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft
didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing.
Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
for machine control.
MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.
If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member.
You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password
is absolutely necessary.
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e
Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.
Paul
I tried again but it said there was already a user by that name so I restarted it but it came up with the menu and I pressed safe mode 4 and this time I tapped 5 times and the CMD
prompt appeared. However it didn't like the commands.
It already had
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>
so I just added, net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
thus
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
It said DNS server not authoritative for zone
I tried it again and then is said
https://postimg.cc/jwbR3fk2
https://postimg.cc/jCRszz7k
The user name could not be found
so I exited, and rebooted the computer.
Were getting closer but still not there and because I tried
before the computer remembers it sees the other user name.
Robert
There is a space between the password and the next command
net user TEMP qwerty1 /ADD
^
|
+--- Space goes there. I used three spaces for emphasis.
Paul
I tried again but it still see's the first attempt account and says there's a duplicate account and doesn't let me proceed with the needed commands but when I restart it takes me to the menu to press 4 and so I entered the commands with spacing but itsays no user.
https://postimg.cc/xqXXCDLf
I need a new User name /password to work with for this to work;
like TEMP1 qwertym ? Can I do that?
Robert
On 12/24/2023 12:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:says no user.
Paul wrote:
On 12/24/2023 4:52 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
pressing:
re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4
It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
your instructions.
Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
prompt from macrium?
Robert
When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear. >>>>>
Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft
didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing. >>>>>
Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
for machine control.
MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.
If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member.
You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password
is absolutely necessary.
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e
Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.
Paul
I tried again but it said there was already a user by that name so I restarted it but it came up with the menu and I pressed safe mode 4 and this time I tapped 5 times and the CMD
prompt appeared. However it didn't like the commands.
It already had
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>
so I just added, net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
thus
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
It said DNS server not authoritative for zone
I tried it again and then is said
https://postimg.cc/jwbR3fk2
https://postimg.cc/jCRszz7k
The user name could not be found
so I exited, and rebooted the computer.
Were getting closer but still not there and because I tried
before the computer remembers it sees the other user name.
Robert
There is a space between the password and the next command
net user TEMP qwerty1 /ADD
^
|
+--- Space goes there. I used three spaces for emphasis.
Paul
I tried again but it still see's the first attempt account and says there's a duplicate account and doesn't let me proceed with the needed commands but when I restart it takes me to the menu to press 4 and so I entered the commands with spacing but it
https://postimg.cc/xqXXCDLf
I need a new User name /password to work with for this to work;
like TEMP1 qwertym ? Can I do that?
Robert
There is a space character between the password "querty1" and the /ADD command.
Paul
Paul wrote:it says no user.
On 12/24/2023 12:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/24/2023 4:52 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
pressing:
re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4
It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
your instructions.
Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
prompt from macrium?
Robert
When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear. >>>>>>
Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft
didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing. >>>>>>
Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
for machine control.
MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.
If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member. >>>>>> You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password
is absolutely necessary.
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e
Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.
Paul
I tried again but it said there was already a user by that name so I restarted it but it came up with the menu and I pressed safe mode 4 and this time I tapped 5 times and the CMD
prompt appeared. However it didn't like the commands.
It already had
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>
so I just added, net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
thus
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
It said DNS server not authoritative for zone
I tried it again and then is said
https://postimg.cc/jwbR3fk2
https://postimg.cc/jCRszz7k
The user name could not be found
so I exited, and rebooted the computer.
Were getting closer but still not there and because I tried
before the computer remembers it sees the other user name.
Robert
There is a space between the password and the next command
net user TEMP qwerty1 /ADD
^
|
+--- Space goes there. I used three spaces for emphasis.
Paul
I tried again but it still see's the first attempt account and says there's a duplicate account and doesn't let me proceed with the needed commands but when I restart it takes me to the menu to press 4 and so I entered the commands with spacing but
https://postimg.cc/xqXXCDLf
I need a new User name /password to work with for this to work;
like TEMP1 qwertym ? Can I do that?
Robert
There is a space character between the password "querty1" and the /ADD command.
Paul
I tried again,... I don't know if it worked or not
but it took the commands.
https://postimg.cc/VdtvVwzH
How do I verify it?
What now?
Robert
On 12/24/2023 10:17 PM, Robert in CA wrote:it says no user.
Paul wrote:
On 12/24/2023 12:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/24/2023 4:52 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
pressing:
re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4
It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
your instructions.
Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
prompt from macrium?
Robert
When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear. >>>>>>>
Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft >>>>>>> didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing. >>>>>>>
Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
for machine control.
MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.
If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member. >>>>>>> You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password >>>>>>> is absolutely necessary.
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e
Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.
Paul
I tried again but it said there was already a user by that name so I restarted it but it came up with the menu and I pressed safe mode 4 and this time I tapped 5 times and the CMD
prompt appeared. However it didn't like the commands.
It already had
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>
so I just added, net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
thus
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
It said DNS server not authoritative for zone
I tried it again and then is said
https://postimg.cc/jwbR3fk2
https://postimg.cc/jCRszz7k
The user name could not be found
so I exited, and rebooted the computer.
Were getting closer but still not there and because I tried
before the computer remembers it sees the other user name.
Robert
There is a space between the password and the next command
net user TEMP qwerty1 /ADD
^
|
+--- Space goes there. I used three spaces for emphasis.
Paul
I tried again but it still see's the first attempt account and says there's a duplicate account and doesn't let me proceed with the needed commands but when I restart it takes me to the menu to press 4 and so I entered the commands with spacing but
https://postimg.cc/xqXXCDLf
I need a new User name /password to work with for this to work;
like TEMP1 qwertym ? Can I do that?
Robert
There is a space character between the password "querty1" and the /ADD command.
Paul
I tried again,... I don't know if it worked or not
but it took the commands.
https://postimg.cc/VdtvVwzH
How do I verify it?
What now?
Robert
This is where we are now:
net user TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # You have successfully created account TEMP, with a password
# You should not need to enter this command again, as now
# TEMP is a login item (on next reboot, it will be listed.
net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD # The space between LOCAL and GROUP should be removed.
# LOCALGROUP is a reference to the setting of membership
# in a non-domain group.
Once you issue this last command to make the account belong to administrators, you should be done.
This is the only account preventing us from "owning" our own computer :-) This command, you do it in the administrators "hacker window".
net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
Then the TEMP account is ready to be used for a login.
If, after using the administrators window, you login to any
of the accounts on the left for which you have a password,
you should be able to review your handiwork. For example,
once the LOCALGROUP command has been entered, you can do this.
net user TEMP # review account exists, and belongs to Administrators
Even as Lowboy (my unelevated test account), I am able
to list the details of the accounts. I have removed extraneous lines
so only the relevant parts are listed.
*******
PS C:\Users\Lowboy> net user lowboy
User name Lowboy
Local Group Memberships *Users <=== Lowboy account, can check the accounts. No Administrators here.
Global Group memberships *None
The command completed successfully.
PS C:\Users\Lowboy> net user bullwinkle
User name bullwinkle
Local Group Memberships *Administrators <=== Bullwinkle is how I control the machine
Global Group memberships *None This will be the TEMP account, when you are done.
The command completed successfully. net user TEMP will dump the details.
*******
Paul
Success ! I went into disk management and
took a pic for you then shutdown the 780.
https://postimg.cc/JsZMWw46 # Successful LOCALGROUP command on account TEMP
https://postimg.cc/k23PsjFx
https://postimg.cc/94c55rk0 # In Safe Mode
https://postimg.cc/c62p1DzV # First partition SR/Active,589MB,0x27 Second Parititon C: 1862.45GB, 2TB drive, MSDOS part
Next we go into accounts and delete the other
account with the pin numbers correct?
After that I need to bring over my A?V suite
and we'll do the mediacreationtool as soon as
I get the DVD's. bookmarks,. my Documents
etc.
Robert
On 12/24/2023 10:17 PM, Robert in CA wrote:it says no user.
Paul wrote:
On 12/24/2023 12:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/24/2023 4:52 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
pressing:
re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4
It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
your instructions.
Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
prompt from macrium?
Robert
When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear. >>>>>>>
Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft >>>>>>> didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing. >>>>>>>
Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
for machine control.
MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.
If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member. >>>>>>> You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password >>>>>>> is absolutely necessary.
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e
Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.
Paul
I tried again but it said there was already a user by that name so I restarted it but it came up with the menu and I pressed safe mode 4 and this time I tapped 5 times and the CMD
prompt appeared. However it didn't like the commands.
It already had
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>
so I just added, net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
thus
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
It said DNS server not authoritative for zone
I tried it again and then is said
https://postimg.cc/jwbR3fk2
https://postimg.cc/jCRszz7k
The user name could not be found
so I exited, and rebooted the computer.
Were getting closer but still not there and because I tried
before the computer remembers it sees the other user name.
Robert
There is a space between the password and the next command
net user TEMP qwerty1 /ADD
^
|
+--- Space goes there. I used three spaces for emphasis.
Paul
I tried again but it still see's the first attempt account and says there's a duplicate account and doesn't let me proceed with the needed commands but when I restart it takes me to the menu to press 4 and so I entered the commands with spacing but
https://postimg.cc/xqXXCDLf
I need a new User name /password to work with for this to work;
like TEMP1 qwertym ? Can I do that?
Robert
There is a space character between the password "querty1" and the /ADD command.
Paul
I tried again,... I don't know if it worked or not
but it took the commands.
https://postimg.cc/VdtvVwzH
How do I verify it?
What now?
Robert
This is where we are now:
net user TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # You have successfully created account TEMP, with a password
# You should not need to enter this command again, as now
# TEMP is a login item (on next reboot, it will be listed.
net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD # The space between LOCAL and GROUP should be removed.
# LOCALGROUP is a reference to the setting of membership
# in a non-domain group.
Once you issue this last command to make the account belong to administrators, you should be done.
This is the only account preventing us from "owning" our own computer :-) This command, you do it in the administrators "hacker window".
net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
Then the TEMP account is ready to be used for a login.
If, after using the administrators window, you login to any
of the accounts on the left for which you have a password,
you should be able to review your handiwork. For example,
once the LOCALGROUP command has been entered, you can do this.
net user TEMP # review account exists, and belongs to Administrators
Even as Lowboy (my unelevated test account), I am able
to list the details of the accounts. I have removed extraneous lines
so only the relevant parts are listed.
*******
PS C:\Users\Lowboy> net user lowboy
User name Lowboy
Local Group Memberships *Users <=== Lowboy account, can check the accounts. No Administrators here.
Global Group memberships *None
The command completed successfully.
PS C:\Users\Lowboy> net user bullwinkle
User name bullwinkle
Local Group Memberships *Administrators <=== Bullwinkle is how I control the machine
Global Group memberships *None This will be the TEMP account, when you are done.
The command completed successfully. net user TEMP will dump the details.
*******
Paul
On 12/25/2023 2:06 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success ! I went into disk management and
took a pic for you then shutdown the 780.
https://postimg.cc/JsZMWw46 # Successful LOCALGROUP command on account TEMP
https://postimg.cc/k23PsjFx
https://postimg.cc/94c55rk0 # In Safe Mode
https://postimg.cc/c62p1DzV # First partition SR/Active,589MB,0x27 Second Parititon C: 1862.45GB, 2TB drive, MSDOS part
Next we go into accounts and delete the other
account with the pin numbers correct?
After that I need to bring over my A?V suite
and we'll do the mediacreationtool as soon as
I get the DVD's. bookmarks,. my Documents
etc.
Robert
So that means, you can now do maintenance, if you log in as TEMP.
You should be able to do
net user TEMP # Review details of TEMP account, verify administrators is present
If the TEMP account is looking good, you can turn the hack off
from the Macrium LiveCD Command Prompt window. Using the diagram
I posted with the instructions for the hack.
If you want to make Rob an Administrator now, you can do it.
In an Administrator Powershell, you can switch to cmd.exe like this, and do it.
Switching to cmd.exe , is necessary some times when you cannot trust the Powershell environment with the execution of one of these commands.
cmd.exe
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD
You can then do
net user Rob
and verify Rob is now an administrator.
And if Robs password is not working, you should be able to fix that too.
As TEMP, you should be able to override Robs local password, but not PIN or cloud MSA password.
net user Rob NewPasswordGoesHere # Pick a better password than that...
*******
+-----+------------------------------+------------------------------------+
| MBR | System Reserved 589MB Active | C: <Boot> 1862.45GB 1806 free | MSDOS partitioned, suited to Optiplex 780
+-----+------------------------------+------------------------------------+
Your C: drive could use a label. In File Explorer, do Properties on it.
The label allows you to assign a short text string like "OrigW10"
or "Refurb10", so at a later date, you will remember which OS that is.
There might be one backup sitting in the C: partition somewhere.
You can shrink C: from the Disk Management pane. Right click C: and
there should be a "Shrink Volume" option. You can, for example,
easily accept the defaults,
"Enter the amount of space to shrink" <=== the amount will only be half of 1862, or about 931 or so.
the field might read 931*1024= 953344 Megabytes
There is some metadata, which is half way out on the C: partition,
and the Microsoft software refuses to move it. Many third party
partition managers will agree to move it.
There are a couple ways you can achieve a more precise shrink (to about 76GB).
1) Paragon Partition Manager Free Edition (64-bit)
https://download.cnet.com/paragon-partition-manager-free-edition-64-bit/3000-2248_4-10904411.html
2) If you do a backup of that C: partition to an external disk, then do
a restore on top of C:, one of the options is to "resize the partition".
You can use the resize control during the restore procedure, to achieve a
76GB partition, with all the original files in place.
*******
I don't want to overwhelm you with work.
I'm just celebrating we might be in control.
There's no big rush to do things, and they can be done one at a time.
But at least now, if you need to do something as Administrator,
you have a few more options.
Paul
I removed the hack,..
https://postimg.cc/Y4zs3KQT # Looks good. Hack removed
then I went back and deleted the other account with the pin numbers. but
I got a screen I couldn't get around and so I said no to most of it. I wish they wouldn't do things like that. Then got a pop-up for my ergonomic keyboard and didn't know what to do with that either so I closed it.
https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3 # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account
https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.
https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"
https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG # Has deleted foreign account
https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY # Logging in as Rob
https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt # The logging-in-twice problem ???
Why can't I switch accounts in Win 10? It only shows # Fast user switching is gone
Sign out
Sleep
Shutdown
Restart
I had to restart the 780 to login the Admin Account to delete the other account but then had to restart it again to login in my User Account. I noticed that the 2 Rob's were still there then all of a sudden there was
only one with the TEMP account.
I should be able to switch between accounts without restarting the 780.
Robert
On 12/25/2023 2:06 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success ! I went into disk management and
took a pic for you then shutdown the 780.
https://postimg.cc/JsZMWw46 # Successful LOCALGROUP command on account TEMP
https://postimg.cc/k23PsjFx
https://postimg.cc/94c55rk0 # In Safe Mode
https://postimg.cc/c62p1DzV # First partition SR/Active,589MB,0x27 Second Parititon C: 1862.45GB, 2TB drive, MSDOS part
Next we go into accounts and delete the other
account with the pin numbers correct?
After that I need to bring over my A?V suite
and we'll do the mediacreationtool as soon as
I get the DVD's. bookmarks,. my Documents
etc.
Robert
So that means, you can now do maintenance, if you log in as TEMP.
You should be able to do
net user TEMP # Review details of TEMP account, verify administrators is present
If the TEMP account is looking good, you can turn the hack off
from the Macrium LiveCD Command Prompt window. Using the diagram
I posted with the instructions for the hack.
If you want to make Rob an Administrator now, you can do it.
In an Administrator Powershell, you can switch to cmd.exe like this, and do it.
Switching to cmd.exe , is necessary some times when you cannot trust the Powershell environment with the execution of one of these commands.
cmd.exe
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD
You can then do
net user Rob
and verify Rob is now an administrator.
And if Robs password is not working, you should be able to fix that too.
As TEMP, you should be able to override Robs local password, but not PIN or cloud MSA password.
net user Rob NewPasswordGoesHere # Pick a better password than that...
*******
+-----+------------------------------+------------------------------------+
| MBR | System Reserved 589MB Active | C: <Boot> 1862.45GB 1806 free | MSDOS partitioned, suited to Optiplex 780
+-----+------------------------------+------------------------------------+
Your C: drive could use a label. In File Explorer, do Properties on it.
The label allows you to assign a short text string like "OrigW10"
or "Refurb10", so at a later date, you will remember which OS that is.
There might be one backup sitting in the C: partition somewhere.
You can shrink C: from the Disk Management pane. Right click C: and
there should be a "Shrink Volume" option. You can, for example,
easily accept the defaults,
"Enter the amount of space to shrink" <=== the amount will only be half of 1862, or about 931 or so.
the field might read 931*1024= 953344 Megabytes
There is some metadata, which is half way out on the C: partition,
and the Microsoft software refuses to move it. Many third party
partition managers will agree to move it.
There are a couple ways you can achieve a more precise shrink (to about 76GB).
1) Paragon Partition Manager Free Edition (64-bit)
https://download.cnet.com/paragon-partition-manager-free-edition-64-bit/3000-2248_4-10904411.html
2) If you do a backup of that C: partition to an external disk, then do
a restore on top of C:, one of the options is to "resize the partition".
You can use the resize control during the restore procedure, to achieve a
76GB partition, with all the original files in place.
*******
I don't want to overwhelm you with work.
I'm just celebrating we might be in control.
There's no big rush to do things, and they can be done one at a time.
But at least now, if you need to do something as Administrator,
you have a few more options.
Paul
On 12/25/2023 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I removed the hack,..
https://postimg.cc/Y4zs3KQT # Looks good. Hack removed
then I went back and deleted the other account with the pin numbers. but
I got a screen I couldn't get around and so I said no to most of it. I wish >> they wouldn't do things like that. Then got a pop-up for my ergonomic
keyboard and didn't know what to do with that either so I closed it.
https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3 # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account
https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.
https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"
https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG # Has deleted foreign account
https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY # Logging in as Rob
https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt # The logging-in-twice problem ???
Why can't I switch accounts in Win 10? It only shows # Fast user switching is gone
Sign out
Sleep
Shutdown
Restart
I had to restart the 780 to login the Admin Account to delete the other
account but then had to restart it again to login in my User Account. I
noticed that the 2 Rob's were still there then all of a sudden there was
only one with the TEMP account.
I should be able to switch between accounts without restarting the 780.
Robert
Fast User Switching is gone from that menu. This did not work.
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System\
HideFastUserSwitching DWORD 0
But other menus have "Switch User".
Use control-alt-delete then "Switch User". I got the info from here.
https://www.majorgeeks.com/content/page/restart_windows_10_computer.html
Note that, later in Task Manager, Lowboy cannot view the tasks of Bullwinkle (administrator).
But Bullwinkle can see his own processes, as well as Lowboy. This proves that it is actual FastUserSwitching, and not a total logout for the other user. Bullwinkle collected this image as he is the Administrator.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/52SxnLBQ/Bullwinkle-and-Lowboy-in-Task-Manager.gif
So yes, you can move between sessions.
*******
Let's do your images
https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3 # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account. Set all to OFF.
https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.
https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"
# I prefer the easy visual review of accounts this way. Test using the TEMP account.
https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG # Has deleted foreign account
https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY # Logging in as Rob
https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt # The logging-in-twice problem ??? If so, could be related to netplwiz.
When you get a chance, test this and take a picture, blotting out
the details as you see fit.
control /name microsoft.useraccounts
click "Manage another account"
take a picture (snippingtool.exe)
Right-click the surface of the picture, Save As, save as a PNG, edit with your tools, postimage it.
Paul
I was reading through your post trying to absorb it all,...whew!
when I got to your part about not trying to overwhelm me just
celebrating were in control *L* I pretty pleased about it myself.
I just want to have a Admin Account and a User Account. I would
rather leave Rob as a User but is there a way to turn off having to
login every time? I only do that on my Admin Accounts. That's
why I thought Rob was an Admin account at first. If I make Rob
a Admin Account then I need to make a User Account to take it's
place.
Can I also change the name of the Admin Account from TEMP to
something else? I would also have to change Rob to something else
because I use that for me User Accounts.
Also, the two Rob's reappeared.
I was thinking of adding my A/V suite, bookmarks, My Documents,
installing Dell Imaging, Word, Excel.
Why are we doing the partitioning again and will my other mrimgs
work afterwards?
Also, could you remind me again of what were using the MediaCtreationTool for?
Is it to upgrade Win10 and/or create Win 10 hd's from Win 7 hd's?
So much to take in,.... but at least we got it elevated and working
thanks to all your good help.
Thanks,
Robert
I did a few more things
https://postimg.cc/grtbnkfx
https://postimg.cc/7CnpDx3Y
https://postimg.cc/Z0MXJsd3
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 12/25/2023 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I removed the hack,..
https://postimg.cc/Y4zs3KQT # Looks good. Hack removed
then I went back and deleted the other account with the pin numbers. but >>> I got a screen I couldn't get around and so I said no to most of it. I wish >>> they wouldn't do things like that. Then got a pop-up for my ergonomic
keyboard and didn't know what to do with that either so I closed it.
https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3 # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account
https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.
https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"
https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG # Has deleted foreign account
https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY # Logging in as Rob
https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt # The logging-in-twice problem ???
Why can't I switch accounts in Win 10? It only shows # Fast user switching is gone
Sign out
Sleep
Shutdown
Restart
I had to restart the 780 to login the Admin Account to delete the other
account but then had to restart it again to login in my User Account. I
noticed that the 2 Rob's were still there then all of a sudden there was >>> only one with the TEMP account.
I should be able to switch between accounts without restarting the 780.
Robert
Fast User Switching is gone from that menu. This did not work.
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System\
HideFastUserSwitching DWORD 0
But other menus have "Switch User".
Use control-alt-delete then "Switch User". I got the info from here.
https://www.majorgeeks.com/content/page/restart_windows_10_computer.html
Note that, later in Task Manager, Lowboy cannot view the tasks of Bullwinkle (administrator).
But Bullwinkle can see his own processes, as well as Lowboy. This proves that
it is actual FastUserSwitching, and not a total logout for the other user. >> Bullwinkle collected this image as he is the Administrator.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/52SxnLBQ/Bullwinkle-and-Lowboy-in-Task-Manager.gif
So yes, you can move between sessions.
*******
Let's do your images
https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3 # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account. Set all to OFF.
https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.
https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"
# I prefer the easy visual review of accounts this way. Test using the TEMP account.
https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG # Has deleted foreign account
https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY # Logging in as Rob
https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt # The logging-in-twice problem ??? If so, could be related to netplwiz.
When you get a chance, test this and take a picture, blotting out
the details as you see fit.
control /name microsoft.useraccounts
click "Manage another account"
take a picture (snippingtool.exe)
Right-click the surface of the picture, Save As, save as a PNG, edit with your tools, postimage it.
Paul
Oh OK, so I do ctrl--alt-delete to switch users on the 780.
I tried it, I could switch from Rob to the TEMP Admin
Account and back but I had to sign in again to Rob.
Isn't there some way of getting rid of me having to sign in to
Rob everytime? It's only a User Account.
I followed your instructions :
https://postimg.cc/K1Y0Z4Vz # Rob is local account
https://postimg.cc/4YMqqzdZ # (Needing to elevate to TEMP, to Manage Other Accounts)
https://postimg.cc/mhwqBxDm
https://postimg.cc/VSqggM0K # Logged in as TEMP the Administrator
https://postimg.cc/MvgY8tys # Only two accounts exist. TEMP the Administrator, Rob the User
https://postimg.cc/z3cCnpPJ
I tried it first on the Rob Account and then on the Temp
Admin Account.
Robert
On 12/25/2023 11:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/25/2023 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I removed the hack,..
https://postimg.cc/Y4zs3KQT # Looks good. Hack removed
then I went back and deleted the other account with the pin numbers. but >>>> I got a screen I couldn't get around and so I said no to most of it. I wish
they wouldn't do things like that. Then got a pop-up for my ergonomic
keyboard and didn't know what to do with that either so I closed it.
https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3 # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account
https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.
https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"
https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG # Has deleted foreign account
https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY # Logging in as Rob
https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt # The logging-in-twice problem ???
Why can't I switch accounts in Win 10? It only shows # Fast user switching is gone
Sign out
Sleep
Shutdown
Restart
I had to restart the 780 to login the Admin Account to delete the other >>>> account but then had to restart it again to login in my User Account. I >>>> noticed that the 2 Rob's were still there then all of a sudden there was >>>> only one with the TEMP account.
I should be able to switch between accounts without restarting the 780. >>>>
Robert
Fast User Switching is gone from that menu. This did not work.
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System\
HideFastUserSwitching DWORD 0
But other menus have "Switch User".
Use control-alt-delete then "Switch User". I got the info from here.
https://www.majorgeeks.com/content/page/restart_windows_10_computer.html
Note that, later in Task Manager, Lowboy cannot view the tasks of Bullwinkle (administrator).
But Bullwinkle can see his own processes, as well as Lowboy. This proves that
it is actual FastUserSwitching, and not a total logout for the other user. >>> Bullwinkle collected this image as he is the Administrator.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/52SxnLBQ/Bullwinkle-and-Lowboy-in-Task-Manager.gif
So yes, you can move between sessions.
*******
Let's do your images
https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3 # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account. Set all to OFF.
https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.
https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"
# I prefer the easy visual review of accounts this way. Test using the TEMP account.
https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG # Has deleted foreign account
https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY # Logging in as Rob
https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt # The logging-in-twice problem ??? If so, could be related to netplwiz.
When you get a chance, test this and take a picture, blotting out
the details as you see fit.
control /name microsoft.useraccounts
click "Manage another account"
take a picture (snippingtool.exe)
Right-click the surface of the picture, Save As, save as a PNG, edit with your tools, postimage it.
Paul
Oh OK, so I do ctrl--alt-delete to switch users on the 780.
I tried it, I could switch from Rob to the TEMP Admin
Account and back but I had to sign in again to Rob.
Isn't there some way of getting rid of me having to sign in to
Rob everytime? It's only a User Account.
I followed your instructions :
https://postimg.cc/K1Y0Z4Vz # Rob is local account
https://postimg.cc/4YMqqzdZ # (Needing to elevate to TEMP, to Manage Other Accounts)
https://postimg.cc/mhwqBxDm
https://postimg.cc/VSqggM0K # Logged in as TEMP the Administrator
https://postimg.cc/MvgY8tys # Only two accounts exist. TEMP the Administrator, Rob the User
https://postimg.cc/z3cCnpPJ
I tried it first on the Rob Account and then on the Temp
Admin Account.
Robert
You only have two accounts now. If you need to change an account name,
like change TEMP to LtCommander, then you would make a new account for that.
DO NOT delete TEMP, until the LTCommander account is made, if that's your plan.
Using "netplwiz", set up Rob again to use a password at Login, and
see, after a reboot, whether Rob behaves normally or not.
It seems, the thing you are experiencing, is caused by "netplwiz"
being done with the wrong password. Did you reset the password on Rob ?
The netplwiz password override now no longer matches the new Rob password.
https://techcommunity.microsoft.com/t5/windows-10/windows-10-showing-two-accounts-at-login/m-p/1658066
If so, you need to use netplwiz again, remove the lack of need to enter
a password, and verify the extra account disappeared (by rebooting).
Then enter netplwiz again, and enter the correct password for Rob.
And maybe this time, you will get Rob to start without entering a password,.
Paul
On 12/25/2023 11:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/25/2023 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I removed the hack,..
https://postimg.cc/Y4zs3KQT # Looks good. Hack removed
then I went back and deleted the other account with the pin numbers. but >>>> I got a screen I couldn't get around and so I said no to most of it. I wish
they wouldn't do things like that. Then got a pop-up for my ergonomic
keyboard and didn't know what to do with that either so I closed it.
https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3 # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account
https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.
https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"
https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG # Has deleted foreign account
https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY # Logging in as Rob
https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt # The logging-in-twice problem ???
Why can't I switch accounts in Win 10? It only shows # Fast user switching is gone
Sign out
Sleep
Shutdown
Restart
I had to restart the 780 to login the Admin Account to delete the other >>>> account but then had to restart it again to login in my User Account. I >>>> noticed that the 2 Rob's were still there then all of a sudden there was >>>> only one with the TEMP account.
I should be able to switch between accounts without restarting the 780. >>>>
Robert
Fast User Switching is gone from that menu. This did not work.
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System\
HideFastUserSwitching DWORD 0
But other menus have "Switch User".
Use control-alt-delete then "Switch User". I got the info from here.
https://www.majorgeeks.com/content/page/restart_windows_10_computer.html
Note that, later in Task Manager, Lowboy cannot view the tasks of Bullwinkle (administrator).
But Bullwinkle can see his own processes, as well as Lowboy. This proves that
it is actual FastUserSwitching, and not a total logout for the other user. >>> Bullwinkle collected this image as he is the Administrator.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/52SxnLBQ/Bullwinkle-and-Lowboy-in-Task-Manager.gif
So yes, you can move between sessions.
*******
Let's do your images
https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3 # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account. Set all to OFF.
https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.
https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"
# I prefer the easy visual review of accounts this way. Test using the TEMP account.
https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG # Has deleted foreign account
https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY # Logging in as Rob
https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt # The logging-in-twice problem ??? If so, could be related to netplwiz.
When you get a chance, test this and take a picture, blotting out
the details as you see fit.
control /name microsoft.useraccounts
click "Manage another account"
take a picture (snippingtool.exe)
Right-click the surface of the picture, Save As, save as a PNG, edit with your tools, postimage it.
Paul
Oh OK, so I do ctrl--alt-delete to switch users on the 780.
I tried it, I could switch from Rob to the TEMP Admin
Account and back but I had to sign in again to Rob.
Isn't there some way of getting rid of me having to sign in to
Rob everytime? It's only a User Account.
I followed your instructions :
https://postimg.cc/K1Y0Z4Vz # Rob is local account
https://postimg.cc/4YMqqzdZ # (Needing to elevate to TEMP, to Manage Other Accounts)
https://postimg.cc/mhwqBxDm
https://postimg.cc/VSqggM0K # Logged in as TEMP the Administrator
https://postimg.cc/MvgY8tys # Only two accounts exist. TEMP the Administrator, Rob the User
https://postimg.cc/z3cCnpPJ
I tried it first on the Rob Account and then on the Temp
Admin Account.
Robert
You only have two accounts now. If you need to change an account name,
like change TEMP to LtCommander, then you would make a new account for that.
DO NOT delete TEMP, until the LTCommander account is made, if that's your plan.
Using "netplwiz", set up Rob again to use a password at Login, and
see, after a reboot, whether Rob behaves normally or not.
It seems, the thing you are experiencing, is caused by "netplwiz"
being done with the wrong password. Did you reset the password on Rob ?
The netplwiz password override now no longer matches the new Rob password.
https://techcommunity.microsoft.com/t5/windows-10/windows-10-showing-two-accounts-at-login/m-p/1658066
If so, you need to use netplwiz again, remove the lack of need to enter
a password, and verify the extra account disappeared (by rebooting).
Then enter netplwiz again, and enter the correct password for Rob.
And maybe this time, you will get Rob to start without entering a password,.
Paul
I tried to add a Admin Account but it didn't have
C:\\WINDOWS\system32>
It had
C:\\Users\TEMP>
So the command failed.
https://postimg.cc/B8RHkb3y
I added Dell Image Expert 2000 to the Win 10 and had to
also install Quicktime with it. I also installed Word and Excel.
Robert
I'm not quite following you with the link you gave. IS this the mediacreationtool you want me to download? We have to wait for
the DVD-RDL's for that. Or is this something else you want me to download?
Can I use DVD-RW, or DVD's? I only have (1) Patriot with some
string you wanted me to use for SeaMonkey but I can delete it
since we have Sea Monkey working.
Robert
On 12/26/2023 3:20 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I'm not quite following you with the link you gave. IS this the
mediacreationtool you want me to download? We have to wait for
the DVD-RDL's for that. Or is this something else you want me to download? >>
Can I use DVD-RW, or DVD's? I only have (1) Patriot with some
string you wanted me to use for SeaMonkey but I can delete it
since we have Sea Monkey working.
Robert
I'm not proposing you use the Windows.iso that the mediacreationtool.exe makes.
The idea is, you download it, and put it some place you can find it for later.
If you ever need to REINSTALL Windows 10, this is when you access the ISO file.
You can burn a DVD with it (some day in the future is fine).
You can also transfer the ISO to the Patriot and make it bootable, with rufus.ie tool.
That's a website in Ireland.
Lots of people ask me where they can find old Windows ISO files, and a lot
of those have dried up. For example, there are very few sources of Windows 7 left.
The days of easily getting a Windows 7 are pretty well over. I'm talking about
reputable sites that are trustworthy. You can download it from practically anywhere... if you have a SHA256 checksum for it. That's so you could verify it is legitimate.
You only need to burn a DVD with that content, when you need it for some reason.
There is no reason now, to burn it in advance. But some day you might need it,
and keeping a copy now for yourself, is better than scrambling for a copy later.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 12/26/2023 3:20 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I'm not quite following you with the link you gave. IS this the
mediacreationtool you want me to download? We have to wait for
the DVD-RDL's for that. Or is this something else you want me to download? >>>
Can I use DVD-RW, or DVD's? I only have (1) Patriot with some
string you wanted me to use for SeaMonkey but I can delete it
since we have Sea Monkey working.
Robert
I'm not proposing you use the Windows.iso that the mediacreationtool.exe makes.
The idea is, you download it, and put it some place you can find it for later.
If you ever need to REINSTALL Windows 10, this is when you access the ISO file.
You can burn a DVD with it (some day in the future is fine).
You can also transfer the ISO to the Patriot and make it bootable, with rufus.ie tool.
That's a website in Ireland.
Lots of people ask me where they can find old Windows ISO files, and a lot >> of those have dried up. For example, there are very few sources of Windows 7 left.
The days of easily getting a Windows 7 are pretty well over. I'm talking about
reputable sites that are trustworthy. You can download it from practically >> anywhere... if you have a SHA256 checksum for it. That's so you could verify >> it is legitimate.
You only need to burn a DVD with that content, when you need it for some reason.
There is no reason now, to burn it in advance. But some day you might need it,
and keeping a copy now for yourself, is better than scrambling for a copy later.
Paul
I’m on the 780 Seamonkey,.. I had to set it up
I tried to download the medicacreationtool but it doesn’t
give an option to saving it elsewhere. I tried to copy paste
to a DVD but it didn’t work. Also don’t I need to order the
DVD+RDL’s for this because its so big?
https://postimg.cc/BjM6Ngfn
I tried again and entered Start: Run: cmd.exe
Then I tried shift-control-enter but it did not change.
It kept the C:\\Users\TEMP>
Robert
On 12/26/2023 7:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/26/2023 3:20 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I'm not quite following you with the link you gave. IS this the
mediacreationtool you want me to download? We have to wait for
the DVD-RDL's for that. Or is this something else you want me to download? >>>>
Can I use DVD-RW, or DVD's? I only have (1) Patriot with some
string you wanted me to use for SeaMonkey but I can delete it
since we have Sea Monkey working.
Robert
I'm not proposing you use the Windows.iso that the mediacreationtool.exe makes.
The idea is, you download it, and put it some place you can find it for later.
If you ever need to REINSTALL Windows 10, this is when you access the ISO file.
You can burn a DVD with it (some day in the future is fine).
You can also transfer the ISO to the Patriot and make it bootable, with rufus.ie tool.
That's a website in Ireland.
Lots of people ask me where they can find old Windows ISO files, and a lot >>> of those have dried up. For example, there are very few sources of Windows 7 left.
The days of easily getting a Windows 7 are pretty well over. I'm talking about
reputable sites that are trustworthy. You can download it from practically >>> anywhere... if you have a SHA256 checksum for it. That's so you could verify
it is legitimate.
You only need to burn a DVD with that content, when you need it for some reason.
There is no reason now, to burn it in advance. But some day you might need it,
and keeping a copy now for yourself, is better than scrambling for a copy later.
Paul
I’m on the 780 Seamonkey,.. I had to set it up
I tried to download the medicacreationtool but it doesn’t
give an option to saving it elsewhere. I tried to copy paste
to a DVD but it didn’t work. Also don’t I need to order the
DVD+RDL’s for this because its so big?
https://postimg.cc/BjM6Ngfn
I tried again and entered Start: Run: cmd.exe
Then I tried shift-control-enter but it did not change.
It kept the C:\\Users\TEMP>
Robert
The mediacreationtool22H2.exe is likely in your Downloads folder.
It is an executable. When you run it, you tell it you are
"preparing media for another user". That causes it to deposit
a Windows.iso , rather than burning something or making USB sticks
or whatever.
Find the executable.
Run it.
Tell it you're making media for another user.
It should make a x64 Windows.iso, as that's the one you are
most likely to use.
After an hour or so, maybe it will be downloaded. Then it should finish up.
Do not get confused when it finishes up. As long as the Windows.iso is
in the Downloads folder, do not get tricked into doing anything else,
such as getting tricked to use the DVD burner. None of that is needed
right now. Besides, you have to check the size and notice it is
slightly bigger than 4,700,000,000 but not by much. The MediaCreationTool version is smaller than the Linux version. But still not small enough :-/
*******
I don't understand why you Run box is not behaving like mine.
Here is mine. Review and see if you can spot something which
matters, which is different than yours. I'm using the TEMP acct now.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Znf71xhf/elevated-cmd-using-TEMP-acct.gif
Paul
I like the present Win 10 however I do agree with you that I shouldn't load anything until I get a new Admin Account working and remove the password connected User Account or at least replace it a new Account that doesn't require a password.I want to delete it and download my copy of macrium as well as the rest of my A/V suite, then bookmarks and My Documents.
I did install Dell Imaging, Word and Excel so that I could work from Win 10 as well but I won't add anymore. I'll leave the other User's version of macium for the present but once were satisfied everything is working and we do everything you want then
I found the file in the downloads folder but I'm a little confused, I thought you wanted me to order DVD+RDL's to put the MediaCcreationTool on them because it's too big for a Patriot. So if I start to run it won't the .iso be too big for the Patriot?Also I'm leery of using a used Patriot for this. My experience has shown me I need a new Patriot for it to work properly even though it's suppose to work after I delete a file.
I tried to run it but it asked for the Admin Account and password and I didn't know if I should proceed or if the options came after to run it as an .so for another or what. I did manage to move the file to my Patriot.then? I mean it should work now but it's not and that's the only thing I can think of.
https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR
https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ
https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH
I tried the cmd.exe and your screen is different than mine. I again tried the shift-control-enter several times but nothing happened. I'm wondering could it be the keyboard? If I switch keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 do you think it would work
https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX
Robert
On 12/26/2023 10:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:I want to delete it and download my copy of macrium as well as the rest of my A/V suite, then bookmarks and My Documents.
I like the present Win 10 however I do agree with you that I shouldn't load anything until I get a new Admin Account working and remove the password connected User Account or at least replace it a new Account that doesn't require a password.
I did install Dell Imaging, Word and Excel so that I could work from Win 10 as well but I won't add anymore. I'll leave the other User's version of macium for the present but once were satisfied everything is working and we do everything you want then
Also I'm leery of using a used Patriot for this. My experience has shown me I need a new Patriot for it to work properly even though it's suppose to work after I delete a file.
I found the file in the downloads folder but I'm a little confused, I thought you wanted me to order DVD+RDL's to put the MediaCcreationTool on them because it's too big for a Patriot. So if I start to run it won't the .iso be too big for the Patriot?
then? I mean it should work now but it's not and that's the only thing I can think of.
I tried to run it but it asked for the Admin Account and password and I didn't know if I should proceed or if the options came after to run it as an .so for another or what. I did manage to move the file to my Patriot.
https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR
https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ
https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH
I tried the cmd.exe and your screen is different than mine. I again tried the shift-control-enter several times but nothing happened. I'm wondering could it be the keyboard? If I switch keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 do you think it would work
https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX
Robert
MediaCcreationTool22H2.exe is a "download assistant". You
don't put it on a DVD.
MediaCcreationTool ==> Windows.iso ==> DVD perhaps
The Windows.iso is at least 4,700,000,000 in size and that is the
item that will not fit a DVD properly.
The MediaCreationTool is
Name: MediaCreationTool22H2-W10.exe
Size: 19,463,448 bytes (18 MiB)
fairly small by comparison.
If logged in with the TEMP account, that should work OK to
run MediaCreationTool22H2.exe, then copy the Windows.iso to
some place safer, as Win10-22H2.iso .
It can be burned to a DVD, some day, like when you get some DVDs
which are big enough.
This prompt makes sense, only as far as using the TEMP account for
its elevation. Perhaps you were signed in as Rob while trying this.
https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR
*******
In the picture here, your file extensions view is not turned on.
That's why you can't see EXE on the end of the filename.
https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ
You can run the MediaCreationTool on either machine, as long
as you have an Administrator account for the (unnecessary)
elevation it is using. You are only doing the download function
with the program, and for that, no elevation is really required
in order to download something. That's a fault of program design.
https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH
*******
In this picture, you are attempting to start Command Prompt from
the search box.
https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX
I was referring to starting it this way.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/pLTWLDqH/Elevate-Run-Box-Command-Ctrl-Shift-Enter.gif
Paul
Paul wrote:then I want to delete it and download my copy of macrium as well as the rest of my A/V suite, then bookmarks and My Documents.
On 12/26/2023 10:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I like the present Win 10 however I do agree with you that I shouldn't load anything until I get a new Admin Account working and remove the password connected User Account or at least replace it a new Account that doesn't require a password.
I did install Dell Imaging, Word and Excel so that I could work from Win 10 as well but I won't add anymore. I'll leave the other User's version of macium for the present but once were satisfied everything is working and we do everything you want
Also I'm leery of using a used Patriot for this. My experience has shown me I need a new Patriot for it to work properly even though it's suppose to work after I delete a file.
I found the file in the downloads folder but I'm a little confused, I thought you wanted me to order DVD+RDL's to put the MediaCcreationTool on them because it's too big for a Patriot. So if I start to run it won't the .iso be too big for the Patriot?
then? I mean it should work now but it's not and that's the only thing I can think of.
I tried to run it but it asked for the Admin Account and password and I didn't know if I should proceed or if the options came after to run it as an .so for another or what. I did manage to move the file to my Patriot.
https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR
https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ
https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH
I tried the cmd.exe and your screen is different than mine. I again tried the shift-control-enter several times but nothing happened. I'm wondering could it be the keyboard? If I switch keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 do you think it would work
https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX
Robert
MediaCcreationTool22H2.exe is a "download assistant". You
don't put it on a DVD.
MediaCcreationTool ==> Windows.iso ==> DVD perhaps
The Windows.iso is at least 4,700,000,000 in size and that is the
item that will not fit a DVD properly.
The MediaCreationTool is
Name: MediaCreationTool22H2-W10.exe
Size: 19,463,448 bytes (18 MiB)
fairly small by comparison.
If logged in with the TEMP account, that should work OK to
run MediaCreationTool22H2.exe, then copy the Windows.iso to
some place safer, as Win10-22H2.iso .
It can be burned to a DVD, some day, like when you get some DVDs
which are big enough.
This prompt makes sense, only as far as using the TEMP account for
its elevation. Perhaps you were signed in as Rob while trying this.
https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR
*******
In the picture here, your file extensions view is not turned on.
That's why you can't see EXE on the end of the filename.
https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ
You can run the MediaCreationTool on either machine, as long
as you have an Administrator account for the (unnecessary)
elevation it is using. You are only doing the download function
with the program, and for that, no elevation is really required
in order to download something. That's a fault of program design.
https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH
*******
In this picture, you are attempting to start Command Prompt from
the search box.
https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX
I was referring to starting it this way.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/pLTWLDqH/Elevate-Run-Box-Command-Ctrl-Shift-Enter.gif
Paul
I'm a leery of doing the MediaCreationTool on TEMP Account and possibly messing it up after all our work.did on the User Account to make this work.
Nevertheless, I went to the TEMP Account to try it but it's like a brand new account with nothing on it. I can't do anything on there and Edge started with their set-up. The account is totally bare and un-workable. We would have to repeat everything we
I have no clue as to how to start the MediaCreationTool from here because I don't know how to use Edge to gain the site to click the link.
I also clicked run and entered cmd.exe but it still came up with User TEMP and I tried the shift-ctrl-enter and nothing happened. Same as before.
Robert
On 12/27/2023 10:48 AM, Robert in CA wrote:then I want to delete it and download my copy of macrium as well as the rest of my A/V suite, then bookmarks and My Documents.
Paul wrote:
On 12/26/2023 10:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I like the present Win 10 however I do agree with you that I shouldn't load anything until I get a new Admin Account working and remove the password connected User Account or at least replace it a new Account that doesn't require a password.
I did install Dell Imaging, Word and Excel so that I could work from Win 10 as well but I won't add anymore. I'll leave the other User's version of macium for the present but once were satisfied everything is working and we do everything you want
Patriot? Also I'm leery of using a used Patriot for this. My experience has shown me I need a new Patriot for it to work properly even though it's suppose to work after I delete a file.
I found the file in the downloads folder but I'm a little confused, I thought you wanted me to order DVD+RDL's to put the MediaCcreationTool on them because it's too big for a Patriot. So if I start to run it won't the .iso be too big for the
then? I mean it should work now but it's not and that's the only thing I can think of.
I tried to run it but it asked for the Admin Account and password and I didn't know if I should proceed or if the options came after to run it as an .so for another or what. I did manage to move the file to my Patriot.
https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR
https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ
https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH
I tried the cmd.exe and your screen is different than mine. I again tried the shift-control-enter several times but nothing happened. I'm wondering could it be the keyboard? If I switch keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 do you think it would work
we did on the User Account to make this work.
https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX
Robert
MediaCcreationTool22H2.exe is a "download assistant". You
don't put it on a DVD.
MediaCcreationTool ==> Windows.iso ==> DVD perhaps
The Windows.iso is at least 4,700,000,000 in size and that is the
item that will not fit a DVD properly.
The MediaCreationTool is
Name: MediaCreationTool22H2-W10.exe
Size: 19,463,448 bytes (18 MiB)
fairly small by comparison.
If logged in with the TEMP account, that should work OK to
run MediaCreationTool22H2.exe, then copy the Windows.iso to
some place safer, as Win10-22H2.iso .
It can be burned to a DVD, some day, like when you get some DVDs
which are big enough.
This prompt makes sense, only as far as using the TEMP account for
its elevation. Perhaps you were signed in as Rob while trying this.
https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR
*******
In the picture here, your file extensions view is not turned on.
That's why you can't see EXE on the end of the filename.
https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ
You can run the MediaCreationTool on either machine, as long
as you have an Administrator account for the (unnecessary)
elevation it is using. You are only doing the download function
with the program, and for that, no elevation is really required
in order to download something. That's a fault of program design.
https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH
*******
In this picture, you are attempting to start Command Prompt from
the search box.
https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX
I was referring to starting it this way.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/pLTWLDqH/Elevate-Run-Box-Command-Ctrl-Shift-Enter.gif
Paul
I'm a leery of doing the MediaCreationTool on TEMP Account and possibly messing it up after all our work.
Nevertheless, I went to the TEMP Account to try it but it's like a brand new account with nothing on it. I can't do anything on there and Edge started with their set-up. The account is totally bare and un-workable. We would have to repeat everything
I have no clue as to how to start the MediaCreationTool from here because I don't know how to use Edge to gain the site to click the link.
I also clicked run and entered cmd.exe but it still came up with User TEMP and I tried the shift-ctrl-enter and nothing happened. Same as before.
Robert
Doing a quick Google, it appears holding down control and shift, then pressing Enter, isn't a "reliable" key sequence. Apparently some people
have software loaded, where only using the right side control-shift plus enter works (all three keys next to one another). I don't have Office loaded here, so my machine is pretty barren of silly behaviors.
There are two issues then. How the keyboard behaves. And whether the
keyboard is hooked and functions being used globally perhaps.
My cheap Cicero PS-2 keyboard on this machine, either side works for me.
This person is a book writer and a programmer, and in the Win95 era, he
made a little program to view key presses. It's not "osk.exe" by any means, but it presents the info a little differently.
http://www.charlespetzold.com/src/ProgWin5.zip
Name: ProgWin5.zip
Size: 10,352,979 bytes (10110 KiB)
SHA256: 70B860EEEAE77A0B9E37A75BE9CD0D5EE1380DAE57251EFA44C441586E5E60FB
Name: KeyView2.exe <=== keyboard viewer program inside the ZIP file
Size: 24576 bytes (24 KiB)
SHA256: A4C85DE4B88386CAF9B856567F16FFF45106AD6EAD895D7972D01A84E9324BCC
This is a demo, of pressing the individual keys on first the left side,
then the right side, then trying the non-numeric Enter key. You cannot hold down any key too long with this program, or the repeat function is triggered (only the program sees this, in regular usage, the modifier keys should not repeat
like that to the OS).
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/442DCQ5k/Using-Keyview2-EXE-keyboard-debug.gif
You can try keyview2.exe and see if your keyboard produces similar output to mine.
Or, if you cannot work the above sequence, try the TEMP account test again, only this time hold down right-shift and right-control, then press the Enter next to them. In the Run box for launching elevated cmd.exe .
*******
The MediaCreationTool22H2.exe is not going to hurt anything. The way you are going to use it "create Media for another machine", it is just going to make Windows.iso . Which you will rename to Windows10-22H2.iso so the version is evident.
Even if you were to trigger an OS installation sequence, it stops and
asks you what you want to do, so you can stop it.
*******
From the TEMP account (C:\users\TEMP\Downloads would be the normal work area)
you can navigate from the top of C: to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
copy the MediaCreationTool22H2.exe you put in there, into C:\users\TEMP\Downloads .
That is if you want a copy, without using MSEdge in the barren TEMP account.
The TEMP user, should be able to navigate to any user folder. Whereas
the un-elevated Rob account, might not be able to do an implicit Takeown
and access the contents of the TEMP downloads folder.
The TEMP account then, is ideally suited for the whole job. It can snarf
the needed file from Rob\Downloads when it needs access to MediaCreationTool22H2.exe .
*******
Remember now, you're Elevated, like a God, enjoy yourself :-)
You own the machine, nothing stands in your way.
If you left a copy of the Firefox installer in Rob\Downloads,
you can grab a copy from there and so on.
Paul
I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and itsits flat.
I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.
I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis
I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.
There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.
I did and then got this
There was a problem downloading some files.
We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
Seems like nothing is working,..
Robert
On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:sits flat.
I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.
I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis
I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.
There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.
I did and then got this
There was a problem downloading some files.
We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
Seems like nothing is working,..
Robert
I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt.
C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther # Perhaps some control happens here.
C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp # This BITS background transfer operation represents
# a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
# The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
# number will be different on your machine.
We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this. 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
The program still seems to have the same name as before.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool
https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe
Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A
PS D:\> .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0x80072EE2
# for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
WININET_E_TIMEOUT winerror.h # The operation timed out
# 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
PS D:\>
The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
is available about that.
*******
The best thing to do at this point, is take MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing this on the 780, do it on the 8500.
It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.
For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
It seems to be compiled with VS2017.
This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got some time ago.
Name: Windows.iso
Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658
Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.
Paul
On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:sits flat.
I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.
I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis
I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.
There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.
I did and then got this
There was a problem downloading some files.
We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
Seems like nothing is working,..
Robert
I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt.
C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther # Perhaps some control happens here.
C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp # This BITS background transfer operation represents
# a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
# The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
# number will be different on your machine.
We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this. 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
The program still seems to have the same name as before.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool
https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe
Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A
PS D:\> .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0x80072EE2
# for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
WININET_E_TIMEOUT winerror.h # The operation timed out
# 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
PS D:\>
The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
is available about that.
*******
The best thing to do at this point, is take MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing this on the 780, do it on the 8500.
It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.
For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
It seems to be compiled with VS2017.
This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got some time ago.
Name: Windows.iso
Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658
Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.
Paul
On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:sits flat.
I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.
I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis
I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.
There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.
I did and then got this
There was a problem downloading some files.
We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
Seems like nothing is working,..
Robert
I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt.
C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther # Perhaps some control happens here.
C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp # This BITS background transfer operation represents
# a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
# The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
# number will be different on your machine.
We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this. 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
The program still seems to have the same name as before.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool
https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe
Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A
PS D:\> .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0x80072EE2
# for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
WININET_E_TIMEOUT winerror.h # The operation timed out
# 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
PS D:\>
The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
is available about that.
*******
The best thing to do at this point, is take MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing this on the 780, do it on the 8500.
It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.
For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
It seems to be compiled with VS2017.
This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got some time ago.
Name: Windows.iso
Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658
Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.
Paul
I clicked on your first link and read through it all, whew,..with the 8200.It's a great speaker system. So I thought I would duplicate it on then 780.
then clicked on your second link without knowing it was a download.
I'm on the 8500 so I can't scan it. I'll do it on the 780 and see what happens.
I downloaded it and scanned it then clicked it and saw a screen flash on/off with data. Am I suppose to run it as Administrator?
I haven't made a MediaCreationTool yet because it won't let me proceed. I only have your link. I don't want to risk the 8500. I'll change the HD in the 780 back to Win 7 and try to put it on a Patriot again.
I ordered the DVD+RDL's and will get a Patriot also and some SD-cards.
I also ordered a Hardon Karden base module for speakers and I have (2)
sets of satellites from the time my circuits were blown I just had to replace the base module so I ended up with 2 extra sets of satellite speakers that plug into it that form a speaker system. It's the same one I have on the 8500. It originally came
Robert
Paul wrote:sits flat.
On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.
I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis
I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.
There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.
I did and then got this
There was a problem downloading some files.
We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
Seems like nothing is working,..
Robert
I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt. >>
C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther # Perhaps some control happens here.
C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp # This BITS background transfer operation represents
# a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
# The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
# number will be different on your machine.
We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this. 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000 >>
The program still seems to have the same name as before.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool
https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe
Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A
PS D:\> .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0x80072EE2
# for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
WININET_E_TIMEOUT winerror.h
# The operation timed out
# 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
PS D:\>
The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
is available about that.
*******
The best thing to do at this point, is take MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing
this on the 780, do it on the 8500.
It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.
For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
It seems to be compiled with VS2017.
This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. >> Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got
some time ago.
Name: Windows.iso
Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658
Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.
Paul
I had to post this to you,.... you'll understand in the last section.
I just had a thought, couldn't we use the Macrium Rescue CD to gain access to the C: prompt so I can enter the commands? That's how we did everything before. Not by the cmd.exe
I was just about to start the download procedure when the screen started scrolling on it own ! and I tried alt-tab and the screens were going crazy. So I closed everything down.
I opened Task Manager to see if there was another User logged on but it only showed me.
It sure acted like someone had hacked into my computer and was a bit frightening.
Robert
On 12/28/2023 8:58 AM, Robert in CA wrote:sits flat.
Paul wrote:
On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.
I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis
I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.
There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.
I did and then got this
There was a problem downloading some files.
We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
Seems like nothing is working,..
Robert
I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt. >>>
C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther # Perhaps some control happens here.
C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp # This BITS background transfer operation represents
# a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
# The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
# number will be different on your machine.
We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this. 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
The program still seems to have the same name as before.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool
https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe
Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A
PS D:\> .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0x80072EE2
# for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
WININET_E_TIMEOUT winerror.h
# The operation timed out
# 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
PS D:\>
The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
is available about that.
*******
The best thing to do at this point, is take MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing
this on the 780, do it on the 8500.
It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.
For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
It seems to be compiled with VS2017.
This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. >>> Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got >>> some time ago.
Name: Windows.iso
Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658 >>>
Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.
Paul
I had to post this to you,.... you'll understand in the last section.
I just had a thought, couldn't we use the Macrium Rescue CD to gain access to the C: prompt so I can enter the commands? That's how we did everything before. Not by the cmd.exe
I was just about to start the download procedure when the screen started scrolling on it own ! and I tried alt-tab and the screens were going crazy. So I closed everything down.
I opened Task Manager to see if there was another User logged on but it only showed me.
It sure acted like someone had hacked into my computer and was a bit frightening.
Robert
Do you think this was related to your visit to PostImage ?
The scrolling behavior.
To do an offline scan with Windows Defender, there are instructions here.
The machine will reboot, and the scan results are shown in the listed filenames
in the article. I've tried this, but wasn't particularly impressed. Offline scans can only work on signatures, and they cannot detect hooks that might
be used when the OS is actually running. Depending on the disk size,
this could take at least a couple hours.
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html
*******
As for Macrium, I tested it, and MediaCreationTool22H2.exe just
returns without doing anything. I don't think WinPE has a BITS subsystem (which is something Windows Update would use).
The only other way to do this, might be to set up a virtual machine
and do it from there.
*******
If you're running with the TEMP account, double clicking the MediaCreationTool22H2.exe
should just work. There should be a UAC prompt, and then it should carry on. You don't
need an elevated Command Prompt for it to work. The UAC should pop up when
it needs approval to elevate. Select the option to make media for another machine, and that should just be a download.
Paul
On 12/28/2023 8:58 AM, Robert in CA wrote:sits flat.
Paul wrote:
On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.
I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis
I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.
There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.
I did and then got this
There was a problem downloading some files.
We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
Seems like nothing is working,..
Robert
I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt. >>>
C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther # Perhaps some control happens here.
C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp # This BITS background transfer operation represents
# a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
# The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
# number will be different on your machine.
We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this. 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
The program still seems to have the same name as before.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool
https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe
Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A
PS D:\> .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0x80072EE2
# for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
WININET_E_TIMEOUT winerror.h
# The operation timed out
# 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
PS D:\>
The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
is available about that.
*******
The best thing to do at this point, is take MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing
this on the 780, do it on the 8500.
It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.
For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
It seems to be compiled with VS2017.
This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. >>> Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got >>> some time ago.
Name: Windows.iso
Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658 >>>
Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.
Paul
I had to post this to you,.... you'll understand in the last section.
I just had a thought, couldn't we use the Macrium Rescue CD to gain access to the C: prompt so I can enter the commands? That's how we did everything before. Not by the cmd.exe
I was just about to start the download procedure when the screen started scrolling on it own ! and I tried alt-tab and the screens were going crazy. So I closed everything down.
I opened Task Manager to see if there was another User logged on but it only showed me.
It sure acted like someone had hacked into my computer and was a bit frightening.
Robert
Do you think this was related to your visit to PostImage ?
The scrolling behavior.
To do an offline scan with Windows Defender, there are instructions here.
The machine will reboot, and the scan results are shown in the listed filenames
in the article. I've tried this, but wasn't particularly impressed. Offline scans can only work on signatures, and they cannot detect hooks that might
be used when the OS is actually running. Depending on the disk size,
this could take at least a couple hours.
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html
*******
As for Macrium, I tested it, and MediaCreationTool22H2.exe just
returns without doing anything. I don't think WinPE has a BITS subsystem (which is something Windows Update would use).
The only other way to do this, might be to set up a virtual machine
and do it from there.
*******
If you're running with the TEMP account, double clicking the MediaCreationTool22H2.exe
should just work. There should be a UAC prompt, and then it should carry on. You don't
need an elevated Command Prompt for it to work. The UAC should pop up when
it needs approval to elevate. Select the option to make media for another machine, and that should just be a download.
Paul
On 12/28/2023 8:58 AM, Robert in CA wrote:sits flat.
Paul wrote:
On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.
I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis
I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.
There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.
I did and then got this
There was a problem downloading some files.
We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
Seems like nothing is working,..
Robert
I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt. >>>
C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther # Perhaps some control happens here.
C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp # This BITS background transfer operation represents
# a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
# The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
# number will be different on your machine.
We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this. 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
The program still seems to have the same name as before.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool
https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe
Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A
PS D:\> .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0x80072EE2
# for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
WININET_E_TIMEOUT winerror.h
# The operation timed out
# 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
PS D:\>
The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
is available about that.
*******
The best thing to do at this point, is take MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing
this on the 780, do it on the 8500.
It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.
For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
It seems to be compiled with VS2017.
This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. >>> Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got >>> some time ago.
Name: Windows.iso
Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658 >>>
Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.
Paul
I had to post this to you,.... you'll understand in the last section.
I just had a thought, couldn't we use the Macrium Rescue CD to gain access to the C: prompt so I can enter the commands? That's how we did everything before. Not by the cmd.exe
I was just about to start the download procedure when the screen started scrolling on it own ! and I tried alt-tab and the screens were going crazy. So I closed everything down.
I opened Task Manager to see if there was another User logged on but it only showed me.
It sure acted like someone had hacked into my computer and was a bit frightening.
Robert
Do you think this was related to your visit to PostImage ?
The scrolling behavior.
To do an offline scan with Windows Defender, there are instructions here.
The machine will reboot, and the scan results are shown in the listed filenames
in the article. I've tried this, but wasn't particularly impressed. Offline scans can only work on signatures, and they cannot detect hooks that might
be used when the OS is actually running. Depending on the disk size,
this could take at least a couple hours.
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html
*******
As for Macrium, I tested it, and MediaCreationTool22H2.exe just
returns without doing anything. I don't think WinPE has a BITS subsystem (which is something Windows Update would use).
The only other way to do this, might be to set up a virtual machine
and do it from there.
*******
If you're running with the TEMP account, double clicking the MediaCreationTool22H2.exe
should just work. There should be a UAC prompt, and then it should carry on. You don't
need an elevated Command Prompt for it to work. The UAC should pop up when
it needs approval to elevate. Select the option to make media for another machine, and that should just be a download.
Paul
On 12/28/2023 8:58 AM, Robert in CA wrote:sits flat.
Paul wrote:
On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.
I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis
I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.
There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.
I did and then got this
There was a problem downloading some files.
We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
Seems like nothing is working,..
Robert
I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt. >>>
C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther # Perhaps some control happens here.
C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp # This BITS background transfer operation represents
# a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
# The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
# number will be different on your machine.
We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this. 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
The program still seems to have the same name as before.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool
https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe
Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A
PS D:\> .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0x80072EE2
# for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
WININET_E_TIMEOUT winerror.h
# The operation timed out
# 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
PS D:\>
The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
is available about that.
*******
The best thing to do at this point, is take MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing
this on the 780, do it on the 8500.
It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.
For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
It seems to be compiled with VS2017.
This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. >>> Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got >>> some time ago.
Name: Windows.iso
Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658 >>>
Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.
Paul
I had to post this to you,.... you'll understand in the last section.
I just had a thought, couldn't we use the Macrium Rescue CD to gain access to the C: prompt so I can enter the commands? That's how we did everything before. Not by the cmd.exe
I was just about to start the download procedure when the screen started scrolling on it own ! and I tried alt-tab and the screens were going crazy. So I closed everything down.
I opened Task Manager to see if there was another User logged on but it only showed me.
It sure acted like someone had hacked into my computer and was a bit frightening.
Robert
Do you think this was related to your visit to PostImage ?
The scrolling behavior.
To do an offline scan with Windows Defender, there are instructions here.
The machine will reboot, and the scan results are shown in the listed filenames
in the article. I've tried this, but wasn't particularly impressed. Offline scans can only work on signatures, and they cannot detect hooks that might
be used when the OS is actually running. Depending on the disk size,
this could take at least a couple hours.
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html
*******
As for Macrium, I tested it, and MediaCreationTool22H2.exe just
returns without doing anything. I don't think WinPE has a BITS subsystem (which is something Windows Update would use).
The only other way to do this, might be to set up a virtual machine
and do it from there.
*******
If you're running with the TEMP account, double clicking the MediaCreationTool22H2.exe
should just work. There should be a UAC prompt, and then it should carry on. You don't
need an elevated Command Prompt for it to work. The UAC should pop up when
it needs approval to elevate. Select the option to make media for another machine, and that should just be a download.
Paul
Paul wrote:it sits flat.
On 12/28/2023 8:58 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and
I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.
I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis
I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.
There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.
I did and then got this
There was a problem downloading some files.
We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
Seems like nothing is working,..
Robert
I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt. >>>>
C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther # Perhaps some control happens here.
C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp # This BITS background transfer operation represents
# a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
# The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
# number will be different on your machine.
We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this. 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000
The program still seems to have the same name as before.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool
https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe
Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A
PS D:\> .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0x80072EE2
# for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
WININET_E_TIMEOUT winerror.h
# The operation timed out
# 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
PS D:\>
The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
is available about that.
*******
The best thing to do at this point, is take MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing
this on the 780, do it on the 8500.
It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.
For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
It seems to be compiled with VS2017.
This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD.
Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got >>>> some time ago.
Name: Windows.iso
Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658 >>>>
Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.
Paul
I had to post this to you,.... you'll understand in the last section.
I just had a thought, couldn't we use the Macrium Rescue CD to gain access to the C: prompt so I can enter the commands? That's how we did everything before. Not by the cmd.exe
I was just about to start the download procedure when the screen started scrolling on it own ! and I tried alt-tab and the screens were going crazy. So I closed everything down.
I opened Task Manager to see if there was another User logged on but it only showed me.
It sure acted like someone had hacked into my computer and was a bit frightening.
Robert
Do you think this was related to your visit to PostImage ?
The scrolling behavior.
To do an offline scan with Windows Defender, there are instructions here.
The machine will reboot, and the scan results are shown in the listed filenames
in the article. I've tried this, but wasn't particularly impressed. Offline >> scans can only work on signatures, and they cannot detect hooks that might >> be used when the OS is actually running. Depending on the disk size,
this could take at least a couple hours.
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html
*******
As for Macrium, I tested it, and MediaCreationTool22H2.exe just
returns without doing anything. I don't think WinPE has a BITS subsystem
(which is something Windows Update would use).
The only other way to do this, might be to set up a virtual machine
and do it from there.
*******
If you're running with the TEMP account, double clicking the MediaCreationTool22H2.exe
should just work. There should be a UAC prompt, and then it should carry on. You don't
need an elevated Command Prompt for it to work. The UAC should pop up when >> it needs approval to elevate. Select the option to make media for another
machine, and that should just be a download.
Paul
I tried to do the Err_6.4.5.exe command tool on the 780 Win 7 but it also has the same problem of C:\\ UserRob and I can't get it to the C: prompt. I checked and the 8500 has the same problem.
We can't get either computer to the C: prompt unless we use the Macrium Rescue CD. That's how we hacked it but it's not letting us change the User.Rob Account's to the C:
prompt and both computers have this. I just checked the the 8500 Admin Account is the same way. All the computers are on un-elevated accounts and we can't elevate them
btw in Win 10 you had me right click then click run and enter cmd but how do I do it in Win 7 ? The only way I know of is to use the search box that's why I did it in Win 10.
Postimage is working again, here's the images I wanted to show you.
https://postimg.cc/62tqSjL9 UAC prompt from Rob account, to run MediaCreationTool
https://postimg.cc/7CmrHKrP File Explorer -- where MediaCreationTool is located
https://postimg.cc/SjY33SRx Problem downloading files 0x80072EE2-20000
https://postimg.cc/D8VHK94d
However, as I said, I was able to finally download the MedicaCreationTool and put it on the Patriot.
I don't know if the scrolling was related to it,..I had been scrolling down the page
looking for your link to download and had found it and was reading the screen and my hand was off the mouse when it started scrolling on its own! That was weird! and the screens going crazy all on their own I didn't touch anything.
Like I said I opened Task Manager to check but I was the only one logged on. After that everything was normal again. It's like I had a Close Encounter *L*
Did you want me to run the Windows Defender scan?
So your saying we don' need to do a command prompt etc for the MediaCreationTool that was only for the Err_6.4.5.exe command tool? Understood, but you don't actually want me to insert the Patriot and run it do you ? it would write over the OS.
Robert
Newegg cancelled my oder for the DVD+RDL's
https://postimg.cc/MvmVqVM9
What are we using the DVD+RDL's for again?
Robert
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html
I was reading through the Windows Denfender offline instructions
and it has to be used on a elevated Admin Account. So we can't do
it.
Robert
On 12/29/2023 2:35 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html
I was reading through the Windows Denfender offline instructions
and it has to be used on a elevated Admin Account. So we can't do
it.
Robert
You can log into the TEMP account and run it there.
Paul
On 12/29/2023 2:35 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html
I was reading through the Windows Denfender offline instructions
and it has to be used on a elevated Admin Account. So we can't do
it.
Robert
You can log into the TEMP account and run it there.
Paul
On 12/29/2023 2:35 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html
I was reading through the Windows Denfender offline instructions
and it has to be used on a elevated Admin Account. So we can't do
it.
Robert
You can log into the TEMP account and run it there.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 12/29/2023 2:35 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html
I was reading through the Windows Denfender offline instructions
and it has to be used on a elevated Admin Account. So we can't do
it.
Robert
You can log into the TEMP account and run it there.
Paul
I understand that if I run the MediaCreationTool that it has safeguards to prevent it from overwriting the current OS but are you asking me to run it and is that what you wanted me to do and put it on the DVD+RDL's ? If so, I need to re-order them.
I understand the Err_6.4.5.exe but we cannot get to the command prompt except via Macrium and the Rescue CD.
I still propose we use the Macrium Rescue CD to get to the command prompt and let me finish the Lieutentant Admin Account with a new password which it should accept.
C:
C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant TEMP /ADD
So I need to fix the error code in the MediaCreationTool first?
I watched most of the video,, whew!!!
OK, it's simplified and as you say I can do my MediaCreationTool on the Admin Account to elevate it but again if I run it where is it going to?
I also need to switch hd's again for all this.
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 12/29/2023 2:35 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html
I was reading through the Windows Denfender offline instructions
and it has to be used on a elevated Admin Account. So we can't do
it.
Robert
You can log into the TEMP account and run it there.
Paul
OK, so I do have it right,... then we need to wait
to do this because they cancelled my order.
I can't use Amazon because there's a snafu with my
account and the RAM I tried to buy through them. I
like jewel boxes, it keeps the disks clean.
I could try driving to Staples tomorrow see if they
have some Verbatim 8.5 GB DVD+RDL's and I'll get some
sd-cards.
In the meantime we can finish creating my Admin Account.
for Lieutenant.
Robert
On 12/29/2023 9:53 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/29/2023 2:35 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html
I was reading through the Windows Denfender offline instructions
and it has to be used on a elevated Admin Account. So we can't do
it.
Robert
You can log into the TEMP account and run it there.
Paul
OK, so I do have it right,... then we need to wait
to do this because they cancelled my order.
I can't use Amazon because there's a snafu with my
account and the RAM I tried to buy through them. I
like jewel boxes, it keeps the disks clean.
I could try driving to Staples tomorrow see if they
have some Verbatim 8.5 GB DVD+RDL's and I'll get some
sd-cards.
In the meantime we can finish creating my Admin Account.
for Lieutenant.
Robert
There's no rush for this.
Work on it as time permits.
Securing the file is one step.
If optical media was not available, you can put
boot materials on a USB flash stick. Which is a
more expensive method than the cost of a single DVD.
But if some day, optical media is less available out
there, a USB stick will still work.
Paul
I went to Staples, Target and Walmart looking
for the Verbatim 5.8 DVD+RDL's and none of them
had any. Only DVD-R's and damn few. They were
all very under stocked. So I ordered them through
eBay the same way I bought the RAM. I did
manage to get two 64 GB SD- Cards.
When you say to have a Windows 10 installer file
you mean on the DVD+RDL's correct? That's why you
want me to run the MediaCreationTool.
I have the MedicaCreationTool on the Patriot and
as soon as I get the DVD+RDL's we can start the
process of running it and downloading it to create
the Win 10 installer file on Win 7 Admin Account
so its elevated.
On the 8500 when I right click the Start button
it says Properties and Open Windows Explorer
I thought Powershell was cmd prompt based?
Is this Powershell?
C:
C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD
Of course I will replace the XXXXXX with a
more secure password so the program will
accept it this time.
Let me re-read the Windows Defender
instructions, and I'll do that.
Thoughts/suggestions
Robert
On 12/29/2023 3:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went to Staples, Target and Walmart looking
for the Verbatim 5.8 DVD+RDL's and none of them
had any. Only DVD-R's and damn few. They were
all very under stocked. So I ordered them through
eBay the same way I bought the RAM. I did
manage to get two 64 GB SD- Cards.
When you say to have a Windows 10 installer file
you mean on the DVD+RDL's correct? That's why you
want me to run the MediaCreationTool.
I have the MedicaCreationTool on the Patriot and
as soon as I get the DVD+RDL's we can start the
process of running it and downloading it to create
the Win 10 installer file on Win 7 Admin Account
so its elevated.
On the 8500 when I right click the Start button
it says Properties and Open Windows Explorer
I thought Powershell was cmd prompt based?
Is this Powershell?
C:
C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD
Of course I will replace the XXXXXX with a
more secure password so the program will
accept it this time.
Let me re-read the Windows Defender
instructions, and I'll do that.
Thoughts/suggestions
Robert
A shell, is an environment for running programs.
The Command Prompt shell, has a few convenience features
cd /d %userprofile% # Puts you in the Rob home directory
cd Downloads # Now we're near the error program we downloaded.
Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The current working directory, is a candidate for executables.
# The computer looks for Err_6.4.5 in Downloads. Very convenient.
# The %path% includes the current working directory
The Powershell shell, does not include the current working directory in the path.
I'm sure there is a tricksy way of getting to the right place, but
I don't know it at the moment.
C:
cd Users\Rob\Downloads
.\Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The .\ helps the computer to look in the current working directory
# In Powershell window, if you don't put the .\ then there will be gobs
# of red error text to read.
The syntax is different. And it's a matter of what you are familiar
with, as to which shell you might want as a default.
*******
You can modify the menu, so the Command Prompt is waiting for you.
The two flavors (one elevated) are on offer. Of course there
will be a UAC prompt, which either requires a password or does
not require a password, when you try to open the elevated one.
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/22882-show-command-prompt-windows-powershell-win-x-menu-windows-10-a.html
In Command Prompt, you can type this to get to Powershell
powershell.exe
In Powershell, you can type this to get to Command Prompt
cmd.exe # I put the EXE on some items, to emphasize these are programs.
They put them in weird places. You don't have to know this, because the path is already
wired to pick this up.
C:\Windows\system32\WindowsPowerShell\v1.0\powershell.exe
These commands might work in both shells. But occasionally, I try to do something
like this in Powershell, it silently fails, and I'm left to wonder what it was about the syntax that caused a malfunction. That's why I still have
a bit of a bias to using Command Prompt. Stuff usually works there.
These commands do not access the current working directory. We don't
need to CD anywhere, to run these. We could even be in the X: partition for example,
and these would still run.
net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD
*******
Just remember this part.
*Don't* drag-and-drop Windows.iso onto the DVD drive.
If you use an application like Imgburn, it "converts" the ISO
file into a bootable DVD.
MediaCreationTool22H2 has its own converter too. If you make it
handle the Windows.iso file for you, it can burn write-once
media. The built-in converter, works less well with re-writeable
media, and I don't know if Microsoft ever fixed that.
But I like saving the Windows.iso for later. For example, if you
are doing a Repair Install, you can right click the ISO and select
mount. Or, you can go into File Explorer, select an ISO and select "Open", and that causes the ISO to mount too. Once mounted, you can run Setup.exe
off the ISO, and that kicks off a Repair Install. In a Repair Install
then, you don't need your DVD media, as you can run the install right
off the ISO file itself.
It's for Clean Installs, or if you need to do some maintenance (CHKDSK
when computer is broken), that's when we need some boot media for the job.
At the current time, the signs are, your OS is not clean. It had the
foreign account in it, which tells me the OS started life on someone
elses computer. If you make backup copies of it, if you make emergency
boot OSes based on it, well, it's history is not clean. We don't really
know how much malware is on there, if any.
I'm trying to make sure you have materials on hand, for a *meltdown*. OK ?
I'm not claiming anything is melted right now. But like having boats to lower on a ship, I want emergency equipment which is ready to use :-)
I probably have around a terabyte of ISOs on the computers here.
There are lots of things I can boot or burn, when needed. Much of
it is junk, but I don't throw it away. by now, I probably have ten or fifteen Windows.iso files, each one with the version recorded in the name. If
someone says "what was the OS like in 2015", I have the media to check that.
I'm not making you collect media to be the Smithsonian. I want you
to have one disc as a "life raft".
Paul
On 12/29/2023 3:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went to Staples, Target and Walmart looking
for the Verbatim 5.8 DVD+RDL's and none of them
had any. Only DVD-R's and damn few. They were
all very under stocked. So I ordered them through
eBay the same way I bought the RAM. I did
manage to get two 64 GB SD- Cards.
When you say to have a Windows 10 installer file
you mean on the DVD+RDL's correct? That's why you
want me to run the MediaCreationTool.
I have the MedicaCreationTool on the Patriot and
as soon as I get the DVD+RDL's we can start the
process of running it and downloading it to create
the Win 10 installer file on Win 7 Admin Account
so its elevated.
On the 8500 when I right click the Start button
it says Properties and Open Windows Explorer
I thought Powershell was cmd prompt based?
Is this Powershell?
C:
C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD
Of course I will replace the XXXXXX with a
more secure password so the program will
accept it this time.
Let me re-read the Windows Defender
instructions, and I'll do that.
Thoughts/suggestions
Robert
A shell, is an environment for running programs.
The Command Prompt shell, has a few convenience features
cd /d %userprofile% # Puts you in the Rob home directory
cd Downloads # Now we're near the error program we downloaded.
Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The current working directory, is a candidate for executables.
# The computer looks for Err_6.4.5 in Downloads. Very convenient.
# The %path% includes the current working directory
The Powershell shell, does not include the current working directory in the path.
I'm sure there is a tricksy way of getting to the right place, but
I don't know it at the moment.
C:
cd Users\Rob\Downloads
.\Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The .\ helps the computer to look in the current working directory
# In Powershell window, if you don't put the .\ then there will be gobs
# of red error text to read.
The syntax is different. And it's a matter of what you are familiar
with, as to which shell you might want as a default.
*******
You can modify the menu, so the Command Prompt is waiting for you.
The two flavors (one elevated) are on offer. Of course there
will be a UAC prompt, which either requires a password or does
not require a password, when you try to open the elevated one.
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/22882-show-command-prompt-windows-powershell-win-x-menu-windows-10-a.html
In Command Prompt, you can type this to get to Powershell
powershell.exe
In Powershell, you can type this to get to Command Prompt
cmd.exe # I put the EXE on some items, to emphasize these are programs.
They put them in weird places. You don't have to know this, because the path is already
wired to pick this up.
C:\Windows\system32\WindowsPowerShell\v1.0\powershell.exe
These commands might work in both shells. But occasionally, I try to do something
like this in Powershell, it silently fails, and I'm left to wonder what it was about the syntax that caused a malfunction. That's why I still have
a bit of a bias to using Command Prompt. Stuff usually works there.
These commands do not access the current working directory. We don't
need to CD anywhere, to run these. We could even be in the X: partition for example,
and these would still run.
net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD
*******
Just remember this part.
*Don't* drag-and-drop Windows.iso onto the DVD drive.
If you use an application like Imgburn, it "converts" the ISO
file into a bootable DVD.
MediaCreationTool22H2 has its own converter too. If you make it
handle the Windows.iso file for you, it can burn write-once
media. The built-in converter, works less well with re-writeable
media, and I don't know if Microsoft ever fixed that.
But I like saving the Windows.iso for later. For example, if you
are doing a Repair Install, you can right click the ISO and select
mount. Or, you can go into File Explorer, select an ISO and select "Open", and that causes the ISO to mount too. Once mounted, you can run Setup.exe
off the ISO, and that kicks off a Repair Install. In a Repair Install
then, you don't need your DVD media, as you can run the install right
off the ISO file itself.
It's for Clean Installs, or if you need to do some maintenance (CHKDSK
when computer is broken), that's when we need some boot media for the job.
At the current time, the signs are, your OS is not clean. It had the
foreign account in it, which tells me the OS started life on someone
elses computer. If you make backup copies of it, if you make emergency
boot OSes based on it, well, it's history is not clean. We don't really
know how much malware is on there, if any.
I'm trying to make sure you have materials on hand, for a *meltdown*. OK ?
I'm not claiming anything is melted right now. But like having boats to lower on a ship, I want emergency equipment which is ready to use :-)
I probably have around a terabyte of ISOs on the computers here.
There are lots of things I can boot or burn, when needed. Much of
it is junk, but I don't throw it away. by now, I probably have ten or fifteen Windows.iso files, each one with the version recorded in the name. If
someone says "what was the OS like in 2015", I have the media to check that.
I'm not making you collect media to be the Smithsonian. I want you
to have one disc as a "life raft".
Paul
On 12/29/2023 3:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went to Staples, Target and Walmart looking
for the Verbatim 5.8 DVD+RDL's and none of them
had any. Only DVD-R's and damn few. They were
all very under stocked. So I ordered them through
eBay the same way I bought the RAM. I did
manage to get two 64 GB SD- Cards.
When you say to have a Windows 10 installer file
you mean on the DVD+RDL's correct? That's why you
want me to run the MediaCreationTool.
I have the MedicaCreationTool on the Patriot and
as soon as I get the DVD+RDL's we can start the
process of running it and downloading it to create
the Win 10 installer file on Win 7 Admin Account
so its elevated.
On the 8500 when I right click the Start button
it says Properties and Open Windows Explorer
I thought Powershell was cmd prompt based?
Is this Powershell?
C:
C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD
Of course I will replace the XXXXXX with a
more secure password so the program will
accept it this time.
Let me re-read the Windows Defender
instructions, and I'll do that.
Thoughts/suggestions
Robert
A shell, is an environment for running programs.
The Command Prompt shell, has a few convenience features
cd /d %userprofile% # Puts you in the Rob home directory
cd Downloads # Now we're near the error program we downloaded.
Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The current working directory, is a candidate for executables.
# The computer looks for Err_6.4.5 in Downloads. Very convenient.
# The %path% includes the current working directory
The Powershell shell, does not include the current working directory in the path.
I'm sure there is a tricksy way of getting to the right place, but
I don't know it at the moment.
C:
cd Users\Rob\Downloads
.\Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The .\ helps the computer to look in the current working directory
# In Powershell window, if you don't put the .\ then there will be gobs
# of red error text to read.
The syntax is different. And it's a matter of what you are familiar
with, as to which shell you might want as a default.
*******
You can modify the menu, so the Command Prompt is waiting for you.
The two flavors (one elevated) are on offer. Of course there
will be a UAC prompt, which either requires a password or does
not require a password, when you try to open the elevated one.
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/22882-show-command-prompt-windows-powershell-win-x-menu-windows-10-a.html
In Command Prompt, you can type this to get to Powershell
powershell.exe
In Powershell, you can type this to get to Command Prompt
cmd.exe # I put the EXE on some items, to emphasize these are programs.
They put them in weird places. You don't have to know this, because the path is already
wired to pick this up.
C:\Windows\system32\WindowsPowerShell\v1.0\powershell.exe
These commands might work in both shells. But occasionally, I try to do something
like this in Powershell, it silently fails, and I'm left to wonder what it was about the syntax that caused a malfunction. That's why I still have
a bit of a bias to using Command Prompt. Stuff usually works there.
These commands do not access the current working directory. We don't
need to CD anywhere, to run these. We could even be in the X: partition for example,
and these would still run.
net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD
*******
Just remember this part.
*Don't* drag-and-drop Windows.iso onto the DVD drive.
If you use an application like Imgburn, it "converts" the ISO
file into a bootable DVD.
MediaCreationTool22H2 has its own converter too. If you make it
handle the Windows.iso file for you, it can burn write-once
media. The built-in converter, works less well with re-writeable
media, and I don't know if Microsoft ever fixed that.
But I like saving the Windows.iso for later. For example, if you
are doing a Repair Install, you can right click the ISO and select
mount. Or, you can go into File Explorer, select an ISO and select "Open", and that causes the ISO to mount too. Once mounted, you can run Setup.exe
off the ISO, and that kicks off a Repair Install. In a Repair Install
then, you don't need your DVD media, as you can run the install right
off the ISO file itself.
It's for Clean Installs, or if you need to do some maintenance (CHKDSK
when computer is broken), that's when we need some boot media for the job.
At the current time, the signs are, your OS is not clean. It had the
foreign account in it, which tells me the OS started life on someone
elses computer. If you make backup copies of it, if you make emergency
boot OSes based on it, well, it's history is not clean. We don't really
know how much malware is on there, if any.
I'm trying to make sure you have materials on hand, for a *meltdown*. OK ?
I'm not claiming anything is melted right now. But like having boats to lower on a ship, I want emergency equipment which is ready to use :-)
I probably have around a terabyte of ISOs on the computers here.
There are lots of things I can boot or burn, when needed. Much of
it is junk, but I don't throw it away. by now, I probably have ten or fifteen Windows.iso files, each one with the version recorded in the name. If
someone says "what was the OS like in 2015", I have the media to check that.
I'm not making you collect media to be the Smithsonian. I want you
to have one disc as a "life raft".
Paul
On 12/29/2023 3:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went to Staples, Target and Walmart looking
for the Verbatim 5.8 DVD+RDL's and none of them
had any. Only DVD-R's and damn few. They were
all very under stocked. So I ordered them through
eBay the same way I bought the RAM. I did
manage to get two 64 GB SD- Cards.
When you say to have a Windows 10 installer file
you mean on the DVD+RDL's correct? That's why you
want me to run the MediaCreationTool.
I have the MedicaCreationTool on the Patriot and
as soon as I get the DVD+RDL's we can start the
process of running it and downloading it to create
the Win 10 installer file on Win 7 Admin Account
so its elevated.
On the 8500 when I right click the Start button
it says Properties and Open Windows Explorer
I thought Powershell was cmd prompt based?
Is this Powershell?
C:
C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD
Of course I will replace the XXXXXX with a
more secure password so the program will
accept it this time.
Let me re-read the Windows Defender
instructions, and I'll do that.
Thoughts/suggestions
Robert
A shell, is an environment for running programs.
The Command Prompt shell, has a few convenience features
cd /d %userprofile% # Puts you in the Rob home directory
cd Downloads # Now we're near the error program we downloaded.
Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The current working directory, is a candidate for executables.
# The computer looks for Err_6.4.5 in Downloads. Very convenient.
# The %path% includes the current working directory
The Powershell shell, does not include the current working directory in the path.
I'm sure there is a tricksy way of getting to the right place, but
I don't know it at the moment.
C:
cd Users\Rob\Downloads
.\Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The .\ helps the computer to look in the current working directory
# In Powershell window, if you don't put the .\ then there will be gobs
# of red error text to read.
The syntax is different. And it's a matter of what you are familiar
with, as to which shell you might want as a default.
*******
You can modify the menu, so the Command Prompt is waiting for you.
The two flavors (one elevated) are on offer. Of course there
will be a UAC prompt, which either requires a password or does
not require a password, when you try to open the elevated one.
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/22882-show-command-prompt-windows-powershell-win-x-menu-windows-10-a.html
In Command Prompt, you can type this to get to Powershell
powershell.exe
In Powershell, you can type this to get to Command Prompt
cmd.exe # I put the EXE on some items, to emphasize these are programs.
They put them in weird places. You don't have to know this, because the path is already
wired to pick this up.
C:\Windows\system32\WindowsPowerShell\v1.0\powershell.exe
These commands might work in both shells. But occasionally, I try to do something
like this in Powershell, it silently fails, and I'm left to wonder what it was about the syntax that caused a malfunction. That's why I still have
a bit of a bias to using Command Prompt. Stuff usually works there.
These commands do not access the current working directory. We don't
need to CD anywhere, to run these. We could even be in the X: partition for example,
and these would still run.
net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD
*******
Just remember this part.
*Don't* drag-and-drop Windows.iso onto the DVD drive.
If you use an application like Imgburn, it "converts" the ISO
file into a bootable DVD.
MediaCreationTool22H2 has its own converter too. If you make it
handle the Windows.iso file for you, it can burn write-once
media. The built-in converter, works less well with re-writeable
media, and I don't know if Microsoft ever fixed that.
But I like saving the Windows.iso for later. For example, if you
are doing a Repair Install, you can right click the ISO and select
mount. Or, you can go into File Explorer, select an ISO and select "Open", and that causes the ISO to mount too. Once mounted, you can run Setup.exe
off the ISO, and that kicks off a Repair Install. In a Repair Install
then, you don't need your DVD media, as you can run the install right
off the ISO file itself.
It's for Clean Installs, or if you need to do some maintenance (CHKDSK
when computer is broken), that's when we need some boot media for the job.
At the current time, the signs are, your OS is not clean. It had the
foreign account in it, which tells me the OS started life on someone
elses computer. If you make backup copies of it, if you make emergency
boot OSes based on it, well, it's history is not clean. We don't really
know how much malware is on there, if any.
I'm trying to make sure you have materials on hand, for a *meltdown*. OK ?
I'm not claiming anything is melted right now. But like having boats to lower on a ship, I want emergency equipment which is ready to use :-)
I probably have around a terabyte of ISOs on the computers here.
There are lots of things I can boot or burn, when needed. Much of
it is junk, but I don't throw it away. by now, I probably have ten or fifteen Windows.iso files, each one with the version recorded in the name. If
someone says "what was the OS like in 2015", I have the media to check that.
I'm not making you collect media to be the Smithsonian. I want you
to have one disc as a "life raft".
Paul
I switched hd's in the 780 and now Win 10 is back in. I used the macrium Rescue CD to enter the command:
C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant XXXXX /ADD
with the password replacing the XXXXX's and was successful. However it didn't show up after I restarted. Just the 2 Rob's and Temp Accounts.
https://postimg.cc/4KB2PnsN # Stored in X: , not in C: , command does not use the file path to complete itself
https://postimg.cc/K1b9ytY8 # Password must be corrected in the netplwiz entry, to reduce the two Robs to one Rob.
I noticed it was at C:\\Windows\system32> when I clicked the cmd prompt
not C:\\ so how do I get it back?
Can I run the Err_6.4.5.exe via macrium?
I followed your link and changed Win10 so I have the command prompt
options now instead of Windows Powershell. I'm still trying to wrap my head around it. So the command prompt and Windows Powershell are essentially the same thing but have different commands to execute programs?
I'm reading through your posts,... whew,.allot to comprehend,..I'm trying to follow
along.
If I remember correctly, the 780 was a computer supposedly used at a bank. and I do run all the scans constantly on both computers,...I do have Win 10 ISO on the SD-Card that I used with the USB Adaptor.
I understand where were going with all this and I appreciate it.
I'll switched the hd's again when I do the mrimgs.
I'll re-read your Windows Defender instructions,...
Robert
I just realized I should of entered both lines for it to work.
net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD
Is this correct?
I tried to do the troubleshooting on Win 10 but my
Control Panel looks allot different than yours and
there's no Troubleshooting.
https://postimg.cc/MM7Q83Ks
I started reading the offline Windows Defender(Microsoft Defender)
scan and it sure is involved. I tried to follow the file path to start it C:\Windows\MicrosoftAntimalware\Support but I don't have
a Antimalware folder/file that I can see.
https://postimg.cc/WDGJrfLM
I'm not following the instructions at all or the elevated Powershell.
I already am logged in the Admin Account. Also, I did not see a D:ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows Defender\Offline Scanner
at the top of the page on the example.
This is all very confusing and they are talking about an elevated
command prompt when we can't get the C: back from C:\\User Temp.
On 12/30/2023 3:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I just realized I should of entered both lines for it to work.
net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD
Is this correct?
If you do it from Macrium CD, the password change and the elevation change, are stored in the (transient) X: partition that Macrium uses as an OS.
This does not serve a useful purpose for us.
*******
*If* the commands had an "offline mode", we could have fixed this.
But, for commands that are only intended to be set while the
real OS is running, we cannot expect to bodge the thing when C:
is not running.
You could - go to the menu while the Win10 regular OS is running,
start the Administrator Command Prompt from there.
When prompted, enter the password for the TEMP account (because the
UAC will be asking you to use TEMP now). Which you have written down, so
as to not lose control of the machine. Now, we have an elevated Command Prompt,
and when these commands execute, they change the state of our C: partition.
net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD
If, for example, the information was stored in the Registry, we could
use an offline registry editor, to make the changes without using the command.
However, these commands are "powerful", and they can be doing a little work or a lot of work for us.
We could even use the hack on the Win10 partition, press the shift key five times, and if an administrator pops up there, issue the two commands. But that is unlikely to work, without Safe Mode. Or so I'm told. It used to
work without Safe Mode being one of the ingredients.
This is why I warn about attempts to change the account-name of an account. The reason you cannot do that, is only Microsoft has a list of all the
places where the name must change. It could be a hundred places. And
a human could never get every one of them. Some of them are disguised
with GUIDs and other crap. Once you start installing programs for example, it's possible your name is part of a path stored in the program installation section. Even the way your name is stored can vary, some places it is "Rob", other places it is "R o b ". This is why humans doing it manually, is
a non-starter. Too much work.
Paul
I went back and used the Macrium Rescue CD to
gain access to the cmd prompt and entered the
last string :
C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD
https://postimg.cc/CdCHWgJp
but when I rebooted the 780 it didn't show the
Lieutenant Admin Account. It's still the 2 Rob's
and TEMP Accounts.
https://postimg.cc/5XrwwN9L
Robert
On 12/30/2023 4:17 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I tried to do the troubleshooting on Win 10 but my
Control Panel looks allot different than yours and
there's no Troubleshooting.
https://postimg.cc/MM7Q83Ks
This could be a side-effect of using the un-elevated Rob account.
You might want to bookmark this one.
https://www.thewindowsclub.com/how-to-run-a-troubleshooter-from-the-command-line-in-windows-10
# Administrator (elevated) shell of some sort
msdt.exe /id WindowsUpdateDiagnostic # The article has the names in the list near the bottom.
I started reading the offline Windows Defender(Microsoft Defender)
scan and it sure is involved. I tried to follow the file path to start it
C:\Windows\MicrosoftAntimalware\Support but I don't have
a Antimalware folder/file that I can see.
Would that have been some Windows 7 era info ?
https://postimg.cc/WDGJrfLM
I'm not following the instructions at all or the elevated Powershell.
I already am logged in the Admin Account. Also, I did not see a
D:ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows Defender\Offline Scanner
at the top of the page on the example.
This is all very confusing and they are talking about an elevated
command prompt when we can't get the C: back from C:\\User Temp.
The curse of it is, back in Windows 7 era, you just downloaded an ISO
and made a scanner CD for the job. All this GUI-method has done is
made a nuisance for users.
This article, tells us which file(s) have our results, after the scan is finished.
That's why this article has value.
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html
# This is the procedure. It's in the blue-ball security interface, blue-ball hiding in the Caret on the Taskbar
https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/284639d1592839239-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a-microsoft_defender_offline_scan-3.png
The Microsoft article has the same picture and steps. if you view the page on a Windows 10 setup.
The instructions on finding the scan results are not all that easy.
(The instructions for Windows 7 are at the bottom of the page, in a drop-down menu)
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/help-protect-my-pc-with-microsoft-defender-offline-9306d528-64bf-4668-5b80-ff533f183d6c
https://support.content.office.net/en-us/media/ca22c8e5-7b8d-63c1-00cb-62ed2c80f51f.png # Not-colorful picture
The basic operation then, is pretty easy... once you get the blue-ball Security window open.
And the Microsoft recipe has you do that, starting from Settings.
It's where they hid it, that doesn't make it easy. The actual two-button-clicks are easy.
Paul
On 12/30/2023 4:17 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I tried to do the troubleshooting on Win 10 but my
Control Panel looks allot different than yours and
there's no Troubleshooting.
https://postimg.cc/MM7Q83Ks
This could be a side-effect of using the un-elevated Rob account.
You might want to bookmark this one.
https://www.thewindowsclub.com/how-to-run-a-troubleshooter-from-the-command-line-in-windows-10
# Administrator (elevated) shell of some sort
msdt.exe /id WindowsUpdateDiagnostic # The article has the names in the list near the bottom.
I started reading the offline Windows Defender(Microsoft Defender)
scan and it sure is involved. I tried to follow the file path to start it
C:\Windows\MicrosoftAntimalware\Support but I don't have
a Antimalware folder/file that I can see.
Would that have been some Windows 7 era info ?
https://postimg.cc/WDGJrfLM
I'm not following the instructions at all or the elevated Powershell.
I already am logged in the Admin Account. Also, I did not see a
D:ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows Defender\Offline Scanner
at the top of the page on the example.
This is all very confusing and they are talking about an elevated
command prompt when we can't get the C: back from C:\\User Temp.
The curse of it is, back in Windows 7 era, you just downloaded an ISO
and made a scanner CD for the job. All this GUI-method has done is
made a nuisance for users.
This article, tells us which file(s) have our results, after the scan is finished.
That's why this article has value.
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html
# This is the procedure. It's in the blue-ball security interface, blue-ball hiding in the Caret on the Taskbar
https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/284639d1592839239-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a-microsoft_defender_offline_scan-3.png
The Microsoft article has the same picture and steps. if you view the page on a Windows 10 setup.
The instructions on finding the scan results are not all that easy.
(The instructions for Windows 7 are at the bottom of the page, in a drop-down menu)
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/help-protect-my-pc-with-microsoft-defender-offline-9306d528-64bf-4668-5b80-ff533f183d6c
https://support.content.office.net/en-us/media/ca22c8e5-7b8d-63c1-00cb-62ed2c80f51f.png # Not-colorful picture
The basic operation then, is pretty easy... once you get the blue-ball Security window open.
And the Microsoft recipe has you do that, starting from Settings.
It's where they hid it, that doesn't make it easy. The actual two-button-clicks are easy.
Paul
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
I got it to switch from X to C:
https://postimg.cc/642pdwMb
then tried the commands
C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant aaaaaaa /ADD C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD
and got this:
https://postimg.cc/v10YkDjS # dotNet dependency
https://postimg.cc/5jhxZh71 # Looks like the shell isn't prime materials (could be an x64 CD)
DO I need to start the entire process over?
I also tried to run the Err
https://postimg.cc/S2whb9GV # This is definitely a missing SysWOW on x64 CD. Program works, on 32-bit Macrium CD
https://postimg.cc/Xp4PGxXd # This is definitely a missing SysWOW on x64 CD. Program works, on 32-bit Macrium CD
https://postimg.cc/342LWDTt # What's nice, is I cannot even tell the CDs apart from the command line.
# The 64-bit should have Program Files and Program Files (x86).
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
Admin Account and the Err command but still lots to do
and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
yesterday *L*
I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
Prompt while I was there.
I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
something like that to avoid conflicts.
We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
You're the wizard,.. I'm just trying to comprehend
and keep up with your good help.
I tried running the Err_6.4.5. exe
https://postimg.cc/BPvK78nN
https://postimg.cc/hXm7YRKF
Robert
On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
Admin Account and the Err command but still lots to do
and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
yesterday *L*
I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
Prompt while I was there.
I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
something like that to avoid conflicts.
We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.
Robert
If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.
I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
do the installation, later.
Paul
On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
Admin Account and the Err command but still lots to do
and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
yesterday *L*
I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
Prompt while I was there.
I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
something like that to avoid conflicts.
We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.
Robert
If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.
I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
do the installation, later.
Paul
On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
Admin Account and the Err command but still lots to do
and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
yesterday *L*
I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
Prompt while I was there.
I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
something like that to avoid conflicts.
We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.
Robert
If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.
I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
do the installation, later.
Paul
On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
Admin Account and the Err command but still lots to do
and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
yesterday *L*
I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
Prompt while I was there.
I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
something like that to avoid conflicts.
We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.
Robert
If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.
I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
do the installation, later.
Paul
This is a test from the LT Admin Account.
Please verify your seeing this post.
I downloaded FF and Sea Monkey after scanning
with Windows Defender.
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
Admin Account and the Err command but still lots to do
and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
yesterday *L*
I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
Prompt while I was there.
I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
something like that to avoid conflicts.
We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.
Robert
If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.
I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
do the installation, later.
Paul
There's now (2) Robs plus the Rob1, TEMP and the Lieutenant Accounts.
I'd like very much to download FF and Seamonkey to the Lieutenant and
Rob1 Accounts so I have more of a working computer followed by my A/V suite.
Avast
Spywareblaster
Malwarebytes
SuperAntiSpyware
Windows Defender
Windows firewall
Then I'd like to import my bookmarks and copy/paste My Documents.
However I know you may have things we still have to do.
Did you want me to install Agent Ransack?
Do you still want me to create a Win 10 iso?
What was that string you wanted me to run to see if Windows Defender would detect it.?
Do you still want to do that?
Do you still want to do the offline Windows Defender scan? That looks very involved
and I've re-read it several times.
I have defragged the computer but should I run Disk Cleanup under Accessories/System Tools and use the defaults?
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
Admin Account and the Err command but still lots to do
and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
yesterday *L*
I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
Prompt while I was there.
I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
something like that to avoid conflicts.
We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.
Robert
If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.
I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
do the installation, later.
Paul
I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..
How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
it doesn't have a home page icon.
Robert
On 12/31/2023 7:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
Admin Account and the Err command but still lots to do
and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
yesterday *L*
I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
Prompt while I was there.
I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
something like that to avoid conflicts.
We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.
Robert
If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.
I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
do the installation, later.
Paul
I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..
How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
it doesn't have a home page icon.
Robert
Tools : Settings : then Home on the left, then New Windows and Tabs on the right.
The interface has a specific option for Blank.
Paul
On 12/31/2023 7:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
Admin Account and the Err command but still lots to do
and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
yesterday *L*
I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
Prompt while I was there.
I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
something like that to avoid conflicts.
We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.
Robert
If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.
I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
do the installation, later.
Paul
I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..
How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
it doesn't have a home page icon.
Robert
Tools : Settings : then Home on the left, then New Windows and Tabs on the right.
The interface has a specific option for Blank.
Paul
On 12/31/2023 7:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
Admin Account and the Err command but still lots to do
and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
yesterday *L*
I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
Prompt while I was there.
I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
something like that to avoid conflicts.
We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.
Robert
If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.
I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
do the installation, later.
Paul
I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..
How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
it doesn't have a home page icon.
Robert
Tools : Settings : then Home on the left, then New Windows and Tabs on the right.
The interface has a specific option for Blank.
Paul
On 12/31/2023 7:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
Admin Account and the Err command but still lots to do
and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
yesterday *L*
I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
Prompt while I was there.
I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
something like that to avoid conflicts.
We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.
Robert
If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.
I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
do the installation, later.
Paul
I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..
How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
it doesn't have a home page icon.
Robert
Tools : Settings : then Home on the left, then New Windows and Tabs on the right.
The interface has a specific option for Blank.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 12/31/2023 7:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
Admin Account and the Err command but still lots to do
and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
yesterday *L*
I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
Prompt while I was there.
I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
something like that to avoid conflicts.
We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.
Robert
If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.
I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
do the installation, later.
Paul
I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..
How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
it doesn't have a home page icon.
Robert
Tools : Settings : then Home on the left, then New Windows and Tabs on the right.
The interface has a specific option for Blank.
Paul
Here's the last part of the MediaCreationTool
https://postimg.cc/8fDkH2cB # MCT prompt for open DVD drive tray
https://postimg.cc/BPgSwm1W # "Setup is cleaning up"> https://postimg.cc/5jM8TjFp # IMAPI2 burn prompt
https://postimg.cc/vc094z2S # Off and running.
After it finished it opened the optical drive.
How should I label it?
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 12/31/2023 7:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
Admin Account and the Err command but still lots to do
and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
yesterday *L*
I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
Prompt while I was there.
I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
something like that to avoid conflicts.
We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.
Robert
If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.
I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
do the installation, later.
Paul
I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..
How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
it doesn't have a home page icon.
Robert
Tools : Settings : then Home on the left, then New Windows and Tabs on the right.
The interface has a specific option for Blank.
Paul
Here's the MediaCreationTool:
https://postimg.cc/nCPZjfH9 # Queued for DVD
https://postimg.cc/pm5vKcTG # OK, UAC prompt from MediaCreationTool
https://postimg.cc/R3rBd1JM # "Getting a few things ready"
https://postimg.cc/wygd86kZ # T&C prompt
https://postimg.cc/V57PpP0Z
https://postimg.cc/hf6W48r9 # "Create installation media"
https://postimg.cc/YvFcv4nT # en-us , Win10 , x64
https://postimg.cc/kVNky0dc # "ISO file" as output
https://postimg.cc/S2yH1gSp # Saving ISO directly to DVD. Wrong. Should have saved to Downloads directory
https://postimg.cc/y3xtsW3Q # Progress of download...
Robert
On 12/31/2023 6:12 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/31/2023 7:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT
https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00
Robert
Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.
Hackers, look out.
Paul
I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
Admin Account and the Err command but still lots to do
and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
yesterday *L*
I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
Prompt while I was there.
I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something >>>>>> happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
something like that to avoid conflicts.
We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.
Robert
If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.
I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
do the installation, later.
Paul
I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..
How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
it doesn't have a home page icon.
Robert
Tools : Settings : then Home on the left, then New Windows and Tabs on the right.
The interface has a specific option for Blank.
Paul
Here's the last part of the MediaCreationTool
https://postimg.cc/8fDkH2cB # MCT prompt for open DVD drive tray
https://postimg.cc/BPgSwm1W # "Setup is cleaning up">
https://postimg.cc/5jM8TjFp # IMAPI2 burn prompt
https://postimg.cc/vc094z2S # Off and running.
After it finished it opened the optical drive.
How should I label it?
Robert
Copy the file from the directory recorded in your first picture.
C:\users\TEMP\AppData\Local\Microsoft\Windows\Burn\Burn\Windows.iso
You could copy it to
C:\users\Rob\Downloads\Win10-22H2-x64-Dec2023.iso
Win10-22H2-x64-Dec2023 is a good label for it.
As user TEMP, paste the string into File Explorer, to see the file.
The AppData folder is hidden, which is why step-by-step navigation is difficult.
C:\users\TEMP\AppData\Local\Microsoft\Windows\Burn\Burn\
Paul
I keep getting this,
https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN
I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh
I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.
https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb
https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ
https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK
https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g
https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR
https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL
https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg
https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N
https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC
https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP
https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG
I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:
https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7
So what do I do now?
I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
a Windows 10 Installer?
I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
and will also do so for the Lt Account.
I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I keep getting this,
https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN
I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh
I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.
https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb
https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ
https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK
https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g
https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR
https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL
https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg
https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N
https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC
https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP
https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG
I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:
https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7
So what do I do now?
I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
a Windows 10 Installer?
I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
and will also do so for the Lt Account.
I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
This does not use MediaCreationTool.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e
If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.
SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E
Paul
On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I keep getting this,
https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN
I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh
I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.
https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb
https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ
https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK
https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g
https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR
https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL
https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg
https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N
https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC
https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP
https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG
I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:
https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7
So what do I do now?
I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
a Windows 10 Installer?
I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
and will also do so for the Lt Account.
I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
This does not use MediaCreationTool.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e
If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.
SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E
Paul
On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I keep getting this,
https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN
I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh
I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.
https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb
https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ
https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK
https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g
https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR
https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL
https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg
https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N
https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC
https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP
https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG
I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:
https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7
So what do I do now?
I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
a Windows 10 Installer?
I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
and will also do so for the Lt Account.
I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
This does not use MediaCreationTool.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e
If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.
SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E
Paul
On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I keep getting this,
https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN
I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh
I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.
https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb
https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ
https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK
https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g
https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR
https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL
https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg
https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N
https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC
https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP
https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG
I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:
https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7
So what do I do now?
I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
a Windows 10 Installer?
I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
and will also do so for the Lt Account.
I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
This does not use MediaCreationTool.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e
If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.
SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I keep getting this,
https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN
I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh
I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.
https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb
https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ
https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK
https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g
https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR
https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL
https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg
https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N
https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC
https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP
https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG
I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:
https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7
So what do I do now?
I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
a Windows 10 Installer?
I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
and will also do so for the Lt Account.
I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
This does not use MediaCreationTool.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e
If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.
SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E
Paul
A/V Suite
spywareblaster - http://www.brightfort.com/
Which one do I click? the free download at the top next to
Buy Pro version or the free download with the blue Home
on the lower left?
malwarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/
I downloaded this to the 780 but it was the premium version,
in the process of uninstalling I switched it to the free version
but when I tried to update it, it took forever and never finished
so I uninstalled it. How can I download a clean free version?
Superantispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/
Do I click the red Download button ?
avast - https://www.avast.com/installation-files#
Do I check the Avast Antivirus free download - online installer?
Robert
I right clicked it and saved it in downloads,,.
https://postimg.cc/N5mSjSjB
what now?
I started to close FF and I got this pop-up
https://postimg.cc/Ff8VcFTq
So I didn't close it.
I opened Task Manager and maybe this has something to do
with the CTF that was checked ?
https://postimg.cc/wRcXSX98
or this ?
https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN
for some reason PostImage doesn't work on the TEMP Account.
Robert
On 1/1/2024 10:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I keep getting this,
https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN
I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh
I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.
https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb
https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ
https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK
https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g
https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR
https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL
https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg
https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N
https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC
https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP
https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG
I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:
https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7
So what do I do now?
I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
a Windows 10 Installer?
I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
and will also do so for the Lt Account.
I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
This does not use MediaCreationTool.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e
If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.
SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E
Paul
A/V Suite
spywareblaster - http://www.brightfort.com/
Which one do I click? the free download at the top next to
Buy Pro version or the free download with the blue Home
on the lower left?
malwarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/
I downloaded this to the 780 but it was the premium version,
in the process of uninstalling I switched it to the free version
but when I tried to update it, it took forever and never finished
so I uninstalled it. How can I download a clean free version?
Superantispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/
Do I click the red Download button ?
avast - https://www.avast.com/installation-files#
Do I check the Avast Antivirus free download - online installer?
Robert
https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/spywareblaster.html
Author: Brightfort
Date: 12/07/2020
Size: 4.23 MB
License: Freeware
Requires: 10|8|7
Downloads: 15683232 times
SpywareBlaster 6.0 Installer | Size: 4,329 KB | MD5: ed3c5976a98e3729add30767794fd15d
Upgrade Instructions Simply download the new installer and run it - it should upgrade
you to the latest version of SpywareBlaster.
Although you don't have to, you can also do a clean install with the instructions below:
Open SpywareBlaster and press the "Disable All Protection" link under "Quick Tasks".
Close SpywareBlaster.
Go to Add/Remove Programs and uninstall the entry named "SpywareBlaster 5.6"
Download the latest SpywareBlaster installer from the link above and run it.
Enjoy the new version of SpywareBlaster!
***********************
This has the stub installer. 4.6.0.352
https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360038479134-Install-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4
Name: MBSetup.exe
Size: 2,606,880 bytes (2545 KiB)
SHA256: 7C0B9BCEED390F7F28135431C09AC51469EE8E2B8095FB36A37315D811D9BA9C
There are instructions for moving from the Premium Trial, to the Free On-Demand behavior.
https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360040972954-Deactivate-Premium-Trial-in-Malwarebytes-for-Windows
The old link I have for the offline installer is here.
You can see this file is bigger. I expect the definitions
file will be yet another download after this.
https://downloads.malwarebytes.com/file/mb4_offline
Name: MBSetup.exe 4.6.0.352
Size: 292,680,840 bytes (279 MiB)
SHA256: 4763A0F50181FA9190B8872F84DF1147EF50AD7338488ADCABE277223C0DBF9C
*******
The button on the page, says it is a "FREE" item. You know more about
this one than I do. Free items aren't always really free.
https://www.superantispyware.com/downloadfile.html?productid=SUPERANTISPYWAREFREE
*******
https://www.avast.com/installation-files
The online one would be a small stub, then it is going to do 600MB of downloads, every time you install it.
The offline installer is a 600MB download, and every time you install
it, it will be out of date. The difference is, to bring itself back up-to-date, it will be loading components as needed. Maybe the definitions are 100MB, every time you install it.
The offline choice is the better value, to me, but I don't know
that for a fact. It's just a strategy.
Paul
On 1/1/2024 10:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I keep getting this,
https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN
I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh
I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.
https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb
https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ
https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK
https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g
https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR
https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL
https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg
https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N
https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC
https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP
https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG
I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:
https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7
So what do I do now?
I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
a Windows 10 Installer?
I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
and will also do so for the Lt Account.
I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
This does not use MediaCreationTool.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e
If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.
SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E
Paul
A/V Suite
spywareblaster - http://www.brightfort.com/
Which one do I click? the free download at the top next to
Buy Pro version or the free download with the blue Home
on the lower left?
malwarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/
I downloaded this to the 780 but it was the premium version,
in the process of uninstalling I switched it to the free version
but when I tried to update it, it took forever and never finished
so I uninstalled it. How can I download a clean free version?
Superantispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/
Do I click the red Download button ?
avast - https://www.avast.com/installation-files#
Do I check the Avast Antivirus free download - online installer?
Robert
https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/spywareblaster.html
Author: Brightfort
Date: 12/07/2020
Size: 4.23 MB
License: Freeware
Requires: 10|8|7
Downloads: 15683232 times
SpywareBlaster 6.0 Installer | Size: 4,329 KB | MD5: ed3c5976a98e3729add30767794fd15d
Upgrade Instructions Simply download the new installer and run it - it should upgrade
you to the latest version of SpywareBlaster.
Although you don't have to, you can also do a clean install with the instructions below:
Open SpywareBlaster and press the "Disable All Protection" link under "Quick Tasks".
Close SpywareBlaster.
Go to Add/Remove Programs and uninstall the entry named "SpywareBlaster 5.6"
Download the latest SpywareBlaster installer from the link above and run it.
Enjoy the new version of SpywareBlaster!
***********************
This has the stub installer. 4.6.0.352
https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360038479134-Install-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4
Name: MBSetup.exe
Size: 2,606,880 bytes (2545 KiB)
SHA256: 7C0B9BCEED390F7F28135431C09AC51469EE8E2B8095FB36A37315D811D9BA9C
There are instructions for moving from the Premium Trial, to the Free On-Demand behavior.
https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360040972954-Deactivate-Premium-Trial-in-Malwarebytes-for-Windows
The old link I have for the offline installer is here.
You can see this file is bigger. I expect the definitions
file will be yet another download after this.
https://downloads.malwarebytes.com/file/mb4_offline
Name: MBSetup.exe 4.6.0.352
Size: 292,680,840 bytes (279 MiB)
SHA256: 4763A0F50181FA9190B8872F84DF1147EF50AD7338488ADCABE277223C0DBF9C
*******
The button on the page, says it is a "FREE" item. You know more about
this one than I do. Free items aren't always really free.
https://www.superantispyware.com/downloadfile.html?productid=SUPERANTISPYWAREFREE
*******
https://www.avast.com/installation-files
The online one would be a small stub, then it is going to do 600MB of downloads, every time you install it.
The offline installer is a 600MB download, and every time you install
it, it will be out of date. The difference is, to bring itself back up-to-date, it will be loading components as needed. Maybe the definitions are 100MB, every time you install it.
The offline choice is the better value, to me, but I don't know
that for a fact. It's just a strategy.
Paul
On 1/1/2024 10:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I keep getting this,
https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN
I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh
I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.
https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb
https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ
https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK
https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g
https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR
https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL
https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg
https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N
https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC
https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP
https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG
I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:
https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7
So what do I do now?
I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
a Windows 10 Installer?
I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
and will also do so for the Lt Account.
I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
This does not use MediaCreationTool.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e
If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.
SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E
Paul
A/V Suite
spywareblaster - http://www.brightfort.com/
Which one do I click? the free download at the top next to
Buy Pro version or the free download with the blue Home
on the lower left?
malwarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/
I downloaded this to the 780 but it was the premium version,
in the process of uninstalling I switched it to the free version
but when I tried to update it, it took forever and never finished
so I uninstalled it. How can I download a clean free version?
Superantispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/
Do I click the red Download button ?
avast - https://www.avast.com/installation-files#
Do I check the Avast Antivirus free download - online installer?
Robert
https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/spywareblaster.html
Author: Brightfort
Date: 12/07/2020
Size: 4.23 MB
License: Freeware
Requires: 10|8|7
Downloads: 15683232 times
SpywareBlaster 6.0 Installer | Size: 4,329 KB | MD5: ed3c5976a98e3729add30767794fd15d
Upgrade Instructions Simply download the new installer and run it - it should upgrade
you to the latest version of SpywareBlaster.
Although you don't have to, you can also do a clean install with the instructions below:
Open SpywareBlaster and press the "Disable All Protection" link under "Quick Tasks".
Close SpywareBlaster.
Go to Add/Remove Programs and uninstall the entry named "SpywareBlaster 5.6"
Download the latest SpywareBlaster installer from the link above and run it.
Enjoy the new version of SpywareBlaster!
***********************
This has the stub installer. 4.6.0.352
https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360038479134-Install-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4
Name: MBSetup.exe
Size: 2,606,880 bytes (2545 KiB)
SHA256: 7C0B9BCEED390F7F28135431C09AC51469EE8E2B8095FB36A37315D811D9BA9C
There are instructions for moving from the Premium Trial, to the Free On-Demand behavior.
https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360040972954-Deactivate-Premium-Trial-in-Malwarebytes-for-Windows
The old link I have for the offline installer is here.
You can see this file is bigger. I expect the definitions
file will be yet another download after this.
https://downloads.malwarebytes.com/file/mb4_offline
Name: MBSetup.exe 4.6.0.352
Size: 292,680,840 bytes (279 MiB)
SHA256: 4763A0F50181FA9190B8872F84DF1147EF50AD7338488ADCABE277223C0DBF9C
*******
The button on the page, says it is a "FREE" item. You know more about
this one than I do. Free items aren't always really free.
https://www.superantispyware.com/downloadfile.html?productid=SUPERANTISPYWAREFREE
*******
https://www.avast.com/installation-files
The online one would be a small stub, then it is going to do 600MB of downloads, every time you install it.
The offline installer is a 600MB download, and every time you install
it, it will be out of date. The difference is, to bring itself back up-to-date, it will be loading components as needed. Maybe the definitions are 100MB, every time you install it.
The offline choice is the better value, to me, but I don't know
that for a fact. It's just a strategy.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/1/2024 10:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I keep getting this,
https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN
I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh
I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.
https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb
https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ
https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK
https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g
https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR
https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL
https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg
https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N
https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC
https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP
https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG
I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:
https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7
So what do I do now?
I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
a Windows 10 Installer?
I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
and will also do so for the Lt Account.
I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD. >>>> This does not use MediaCreationTool.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e
If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.
SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E >>>>
Paul
A/V Suite
spywareblaster - http://www.brightfort.com/
Which one do I click? the free download at the top next to
Buy Pro version or the free download with the blue Home
on the lower left?
malwarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/
I downloaded this to the 780 but it was the premium version,
in the process of uninstalling I switched it to the free version
but when I tried to update it, it took forever and never finished
so I uninstalled it. How can I download a clean free version?
Superantispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/
Do I click the red Download button ?
avast - https://www.avast.com/installation-files#
Do I check the Avast Antivirus free download - online installer?
Robert
https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/spywareblaster.html
Author: Brightfort
Date: 12/07/2020
Size: 4.23 MB
License: Freeware
Requires: 10|8|7
Downloads: 15683232 times
SpywareBlaster 6.0 Installer | Size: 4,329 KB | MD5: ed3c5976a98e3729add30767794fd15d
Upgrade Instructions Simply download the new installer and run it - it should upgrade
you to the latest version of SpywareBlaster.
Although you don't have to, you can also do a clean install with the instructions below:
Open SpywareBlaster and press the "Disable All Protection" link under "Quick Tasks".
Close SpywareBlaster.
Go to Add/Remove Programs and uninstall the entry named "SpywareBlaster 5.6"
Download the latest SpywareBlaster installer from the link above and run it.
Enjoy the new version of SpywareBlaster!
***********************
This has the stub installer. 4.6.0.352
https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360038479134-Install-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4
Name: MBSetup.exe
Size: 2,606,880 bytes (2545 KiB)
SHA256: 7C0B9BCEED390F7F28135431C09AC51469EE8E2B8095FB36A37315D811D9BA9C
There are instructions for moving from the Premium Trial, to the Free On-Demand behavior.
https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360040972954-Deactivate-Premium-Trial-in-Malwarebytes-for-Windows
The old link I have for the offline installer is here.
You can see this file is bigger. I expect the definitions
file will be yet another download after this.
https://downloads.malwarebytes.com/file/mb4_offline
Name: MBSetup.exe 4.6.0.352
Size: 292,680,840 bytes (279 MiB)
SHA256: 4763A0F50181FA9190B8872F84DF1147EF50AD7338488ADCABE277223C0DBF9C
*******
The button on the page, says it is a "FREE" item. You know more about
this one than I do. Free items aren't always really free.
https://www.superantispyware.com/downloadfile.html?productid=SUPERANTISPYWAREFREE
*******
https://www.avast.com/installation-files
The online one would be a small stub, then it is going to do 600MB of
downloads, every time you install it.
The offline installer is a 600MB download, and every time you install
it, it will be out of date. The difference is, to bring itself back
up-to-date, it will be loading components as needed. Maybe the definitions >> are 100MB, every time you install it.
The offline choice is the better value, to me, but I don't know
that for a fact. It's just a strategy.
Paul
Here's the 780 with all the A/V
https://postimg.cc/GTY1Y2fQ
I successfully completed the img burn of the ISO and started to verified it.
but then it got this.
https://postimg.cc/3k5sMYqM
https://postimg.cc/5YTPwmdc
https://postimg.cc/qzdw4qpG
So this DVD+RDL is also toast? I only have (3) left. Should I order
more ?
Robert
On 1/3/2024 3:34 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/1/2024 10:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I keep getting this,
https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN
I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh
I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.
https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb
https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ
https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK
https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g
https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR
https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL
https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg
https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N
https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC
https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP
https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG
I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:
https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7
So what do I do now?
I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
a Windows 10 Installer?
I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
and will also do so for the Lt Account.
I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD. >>>>> This does not use MediaCreationTool.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e
If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.
SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E >>>>>
Paul
A/V Suite
spywareblaster - http://www.brightfort.com/
Which one do I click? the free download at the top next to
Buy Pro version or the free download with the blue Home
on the lower left?
malwarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/
I downloaded this to the 780 but it was the premium version,
in the process of uninstalling I switched it to the free version
but when I tried to update it, it took forever and never finished
so I uninstalled it. How can I download a clean free version?
Superantispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/
Do I click the red Download button ?
avast - https://www.avast.com/installation-files#
Do I check the Avast Antivirus free download - online installer?
Robert
https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/spywareblaster.html
Author: Brightfort
Date: 12/07/2020
Size: 4.23 MB
License: Freeware
Requires: 10|8|7
Downloads: 15683232 times
SpywareBlaster 6.0 Installer | Size: 4,329 KB | MD5: ed3c5976a98e3729add30767794fd15d
Upgrade Instructions Simply download the new installer and run it - it should upgrade
you to the latest version of SpywareBlaster.
Although you don't have to, you can also do a clean install with the instructions below:
Open SpywareBlaster and press the "Disable All Protection" link under "Quick Tasks".
Close SpywareBlaster.
Go to Add/Remove Programs and uninstall the entry named "SpywareBlaster 5.6"
Download the latest SpywareBlaster installer from the link above and run it.
Enjoy the new version of SpywareBlaster!
***********************
This has the stub installer. 4.6.0.352
https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360038479134-Install-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4
Name: MBSetup.exe
Size: 2,606,880 bytes (2545 KiB)
SHA256: 7C0B9BCEED390F7F28135431C09AC51469EE8E2B8095FB36A37315D811D9BA9C
There are instructions for moving from the Premium Trial, to the Free On-Demand behavior.
https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360040972954-Deactivate-Premium-Trial-in-Malwarebytes-for-Windows
The old link I have for the offline installer is here.
You can see this file is bigger. I expect the definitions
file will be yet another download after this.
https://downloads.malwarebytes.com/file/mb4_offline
Name: MBSetup.exe 4.6.0.352
Size: 292,680,840 bytes (279 MiB)
SHA256: 4763A0F50181FA9190B8872F84DF1147EF50AD7338488ADCABE277223C0DBF9C
*******
The button on the page, says it is a "FREE" item. You know more about
this one than I do. Free items aren't always really free.
https://www.superantispyware.com/downloadfile.html?productid=SUPERANTISPYWAREFREE
*******
https://www.avast.com/installation-files
The online one would be a small stub, then it is going to do 600MB of
downloads, every time you install it.
The offline installer is a 600MB download, and every time you install
it, it will be out of date. The difference is, to bring itself back
up-to-date, it will be loading components as needed. Maybe the definitions >>> are 100MB, every time you install it.
The offline choice is the better value, to me, but I don't know
that for a fact. It's just a strategy.
Paul
Here's the 780 with all the A/V
https://postimg.cc/GTY1Y2fQ
I successfully completed the img burn of the ISO and started to verified it.
but then it got this.
https://postimg.cc/3k5sMYqM
https://postimg.cc/5YTPwmdc
https://postimg.cc/qzdw4qpG
So this DVD+RDL is also toast? I only have (3) left. Should I order
more ?
Robert
We're going to slow down a bit. No point wasting media.
https://alternativeto.net/software/nero-infotool/
I don't want any TrialWare. https://www.videohelp.com/software/DVDInfoPro/old-versions
I have included pictures of the DVDInfoPro for comparison to Nero Infotool.
(the LightScribe on the oldest drive, only burns labels on LightScribe-equipped blanks)
(The utility does not recognize M-Disc capability in the drive.)
*******************************************
We'll try the free Nero Infotool.
https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/nero_infotool.html
Name: nero11infotool-11.0.00500.exe
Size: 32,596,208 bytes (31 MiB)
SHA256: 8982963C675E39B37B921F5D917439E4A87C81E28CA9BEE88CFCEF521249424F
# Virustotal behavior section does not look all that good, behavior is mired in history.
# In other words, it is not malware, it installs a VS Runtime (that's OK), but the
# other behaviors don't look all that wonderful. It looks like it installs unnecessary patches.
https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/8982963c675e39b37b921f5d917439e4a87c81e28ca9bee88cfcef521249424f/behavior
That raises the question of how best to test it. I tried it in a VM,
and used a USB to IDE for passthru for one optical drive, and
USB to SATA for passthru of my brand new optical drive (which will
serve as a reference for what a modern drive looks like).
It turns out, the drive that is at least 10-12 years old, is as
compatible as the 1 year old drive.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/hjCpDv7L/check-your-DVD-drive.gif
Imgburn really should warn you, if the media label is not
being recognized and it was forced to go to "full power"
for the burn.
Maybe we'll get lucky and Nero will say a feature is missing
and we will have an answer.
There aren't a lot of DVD drive models to choose from. It
depends on the retailer as to how much choice is left.
Paul
Here's the 780 with all the A/V
https://postimg.cc/GTY1Y2fQ
I successfully completed the img burn of the ISO and started to verified it.
but then it got this.
https://postimg.cc/3k5sMYqM
https://postimg.cc/5YTPwmdc
https://postimg.cc/qzdw4qpG
So this DVD+RDL is also toast? I only have (3) left. Should I order
more ?
Robert
We're going to slow down a bit. No point wasting media.
https://alternativeto.net/software/nero-infotool/
I don't want any TrialWare.
https://www.videohelp.com/software/DVDInfoPro/old-versions
I have included pictures of the DVDInfoPro for comparison to Nero Infotool. >>
(the LightScribe on the oldest drive, only burns labels on LightScribe-equipped blanks)
(The utility does not recognize M-Disc capability in the drive.)
*******************************************
We'll try the free Nero Infotool.
https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/nero_infotool.html
Name: nero11infotool-11.0.00500.exe
Size: 32,596,208 bytes (31 MiB)
SHA256: 8982963C675E39B37B921F5D917439E4A87C81E28CA9BEE88CFCEF521249424F
# Virustotal behavior section does not look all that good, behavior is mired in history.
# In other words, it is not malware, it installs a VS Runtime (that's OK), but the
# other behaviors don't look all that wonderful. It looks like it installs unnecessary patches.
https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/8982963c675e39b37b921f5d917439e4a87c81e28ca9bee88cfcef521249424f/behavior
That raises the question of how best to test it. I tried it in a VM,
and used a USB to IDE for passthru for one optical drive, and
USB to SATA for passthru of my brand new optical drive (which will
serve as a reference for what a modern drive looks like).
It turns out, the drive that is at least 10-12 years old, is as
compatible as the 1 year old drive.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/hjCpDv7L/check-your-DVD-drive.gif
Imgburn really should warn you, if the media label is not
being recognized and it was forced to go to "full power"
for the burn.
Maybe we'll get lucky and Nero will say a feature is missing
and we will have an answer.
There aren't a lot of DVD drive models to choose from. It
depends on the retailer as to how much choice is left.
Paul
I remember using Nero a long time ago,...
I've never heard of TrialWare or know what it is?
I don't see your pics for comparison via Nero
I downloaded Nero to the 780, but it never finish's
completely and installs a icon on the desktop.
I clicked the virustotal link and it seems to show allot
of data relating to Nero but I have no idea what I'm
suppose to be looking for?
So you want me to test my DVD-RDL's to see if
they are bad? btw I ordered 5 more off of eBay.
At this point can I export/import my bookmarks and
copy/paste My Documents to the 780?
Robert
On 1/4/2024 1:48 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here's the 780 with all the A/V
https://postimg.cc/GTY1Y2fQ
I successfully completed the img burn of the ISO and started to verified it.
but then it got this.
https://postimg.cc/3k5sMYqM
https://postimg.cc/5YTPwmdc
https://postimg.cc/qzdw4qpG
So this DVD+RDL is also toast? I only have (3) left. Should I order
more ?
Robert
We're going to slow down a bit. No point wasting media.
https://alternativeto.net/software/nero-infotool/
I don't want any TrialWare.
https://www.videohelp.com/software/DVDInfoPro/old-versions
I have included pictures of the DVDInfoPro for comparison to Nero Infotool. >>>
(the LightScribe on the oldest drive, only burns labels on LightScribe-equipped blanks)
(The utility does not recognize M-Disc capability in the drive.)
*******************************************
We'll try the free Nero Infotool.
https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/nero_infotool.html
Name: nero11infotool-11.0.00500.exe
Size: 32,596,208 bytes (31 MiB)
SHA256: 8982963C675E39B37B921F5D917439E4A87C81E28CA9BEE88CFCEF521249424F
# Virustotal behavior section does not look all that good, behavior is mired in history.
# In other words, it is not malware, it installs a VS Runtime (that's OK), but the
# other behaviors don't look all that wonderful. It looks like it installs unnecessary patches.
https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/8982963c675e39b37b921f5d917439e4a87c81e28ca9bee88cfcef521249424f/behavior
That raises the question of how best to test it. I tried it in a VM,
and used a USB to IDE for passthru for one optical drive, and
USB to SATA for passthru of my brand new optical drive (which will
serve as a reference for what a modern drive looks like).
It turns out, the drive that is at least 10-12 years old, is as
compatible as the 1 year old drive.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/hjCpDv7L/check-your-DVD-drive.gif
Imgburn really should warn you, if the media label is not
being recognized and it was forced to go to "full power"
for the burn.
Maybe we'll get lucky and Nero will say a feature is missing
and we will have an answer.
There aren't a lot of DVD drive models to choose from. It
depends on the retailer as to how much choice is left.
Paul
I remember using Nero a long time ago,...
I've never heard of TrialWare or know what it is?
I don't see your pics for comparison via Nero
I downloaded Nero to the 780, but it never finish's
completely and installs a icon on the desktop.
I clicked the virustotal link and it seems to show allot
of data relating to Nero but I have no idea what I'm
suppose to be looking for?
So you want me to test my DVD-RDL's to see if
they are bad? btw I ordered 5 more off of eBay.
At this point can I export/import my bookmarks and
copy/paste My Documents to the 780?
Robert
TrialWare is software that runs for a limited period. If you
want to use it after seven days, you buy a license.
The DVDInfoPro used to have a free version, and all I wanted
was just the flags that say what the drive claims it can burn.
Nero offers a burning kit. That was a commercial software you buy.
But if also included a free utility from the cdspeed2000 site. This
is unlikely to be the former utility, and looks like a re-write.
It's still free. It is an Information Tool, so it does not burn
anything.
https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/nero_infotool.html
Name: nero11infotool-11.0.00500.exe
Size: 32,596,208 bytes (31 MiB)
SHA256: 8982963C675E39B37B921F5D917439E4A87C81E28CA9BEE88CFCEF521249424F
The program window at the bottom of this one, shows how it identifies a DVD drive.
These utilities also include flags only seen on drives like BluRay.
And a DVD drive won't have any BluRay flags ticked. BLuRay burns all three types (CD,DVD,BD).
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/hjCpDv7L/check-your-DVD-drive.gif
I also tried identifying the media in a test.
https://www.videohelp.com/download/dvd_identifier_520.zip
# The developer used this as a staging area. Version 520 is the last version. 900 ADIP labels in db.
https://dvdidentifier.cdfreaks.com/
# Program installs (not portable). Insert media in tray after the red text appears.
# Select the drive from the pulldown menu near the top.
# Click the "Identify" on the right.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/76zGCKBY/DVD-Identifier-example.gif
Mitsubishi Kagaku Media MKM 001
*******
But as it turns out, IMGBurn implicitly contains all this information anyway. It reports in the right pane, on the blank media in the tray, when you are using the upper left choice of the six icons.
If you use IMGBurn, look closely at the media report.
I have three sample drives here. Only the middle one, seems
to know what it is doing. The right most one comes in second
place. The left one (oldest) is "mostly clueless". The left one will
likely burn a little too fast.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/fR8hGF4t/IMGBurn-burn-advice.gif
Of the bunch of info collected in the example, given the media
failure, I would set the burn speed dropdown to 2.4x for my second try.
DVD writers have programmable laser strength. The ADIP contains
info on "recommended" burn conditions. Erasing, writing, and reading,
all use the appropriate laser color, but at different strengths.
The reading likely uses the weakest laser setting.
Paul
On 1/4/2024 1:48 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here's the 780 with all the A/V
https://postimg.cc/GTY1Y2fQ
I successfully completed the img burn of the ISO and started to verified it.
but then it got this.
https://postimg.cc/3k5sMYqM
https://postimg.cc/5YTPwmdc
https://postimg.cc/qzdw4qpG
So this DVD+RDL is also toast? I only have (3) left. Should I order
more ?
Robert
We're going to slow down a bit. No point wasting media.
https://alternativeto.net/software/nero-infotool/
I don't want any TrialWare.
https://www.videohelp.com/software/DVDInfoPro/old-versions
I have included pictures of the DVDInfoPro for comparison to Nero Infotool. >>>
(the LightScribe on the oldest drive, only burns labels on LightScribe-equipped blanks)
(The utility does not recognize M-Disc capability in the drive.)
*******************************************
We'll try the free Nero Infotool.
https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/nero_infotool.html
Name: nero11infotool-11.0.00500.exe
Size: 32,596,208 bytes (31 MiB)
SHA256: 8982963C675E39B37B921F5D917439E4A87C81E28CA9BEE88CFCEF521249424F
# Virustotal behavior section does not look all that good, behavior is mired in history.
# In other words, it is not malware, it installs a VS Runtime (that's OK), but the
# other behaviors don't look all that wonderful. It looks like it installs unnecessary patches.
https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/8982963c675e39b37b921f5d917439e4a87c81e28ca9bee88cfcef521249424f/behavior
That raises the question of how best to test it. I tried it in a VM,
and used a USB to IDE for passthru for one optical drive, and
USB to SATA for passthru of my brand new optical drive (which will
serve as a reference for what a modern drive looks like).
It turns out, the drive that is at least 10-12 years old, is as
compatible as the 1 year old drive.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/hjCpDv7L/check-your-DVD-drive.gif
Imgburn really should warn you, if the media label is not
being recognized and it was forced to go to "full power"
for the burn.
Maybe we'll get lucky and Nero will say a feature is missing
and we will have an answer.
There aren't a lot of DVD drive models to choose from. It
depends on the retailer as to how much choice is left.
Paul
I remember using Nero a long time ago,...
I've never heard of TrialWare or know what it is?
I don't see your pics for comparison via Nero
I downloaded Nero to the 780, but it never finish's
completely and installs a icon on the desktop.
I clicked the virustotal link and it seems to show allot
of data relating to Nero but I have no idea what I'm
suppose to be looking for?
So you want me to test my DVD-RDL's to see if
they are bad? btw I ordered 5 more off of eBay.
At this point can I export/import my bookmarks and
copy/paste My Documents to the 780?
Robert
TrialWare is software that runs for a limited period. If you
want to use it after seven days, you buy a license.
The DVDInfoPro used to have a free version, and all I wanted
was just the flags that say what the drive claims it can burn.
Nero offers a burning kit. That was a commercial software you buy.
But if also included a free utility from the cdspeed2000 site. This
is unlikely to be the former utility, and looks like a re-write.
It's still free. It is an Information Tool, so it does not burn
anything.
https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/nero_infotool.html
Name: nero11infotool-11.0.00500.exe
Size: 32,596,208 bytes (31 MiB)
SHA256: 8982963C675E39B37B921F5D917439E4A87C81E28CA9BEE88CFCEF521249424F
The program window at the bottom of this one, shows how it identifies a DVD drive.
These utilities also include flags only seen on drives like BluRay.
And a DVD drive won't have any BluRay flags ticked. BLuRay burns all three types (CD,DVD,BD).
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/hjCpDv7L/check-your-DVD-drive.gif
I also tried identifying the media in a test.
https://www.videohelp.com/download/dvd_identifier_520.zip
# The developer used this as a staging area. Version 520 is the last version. 900 ADIP labels in db.
https://dvdidentifier.cdfreaks.com/
# Program installs (not portable). Insert media in tray after the red text appears.
# Select the drive from the pulldown menu near the top.
# Click the "Identify" on the right.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/76zGCKBY/DVD-Identifier-example.gif
Mitsubishi Kagaku Media MKM 001
*******
But as it turns out, IMGBurn implicitly contains all this information anyway. It reports in the right pane, on the blank media in the tray, when you are using the upper left choice of the six icons.
If you use IMGBurn, look closely at the media report.
I have three sample drives here. Only the middle one, seems
to know what it is doing. The right most one comes in second
place. The left one (oldest) is "mostly clueless". The left one will
likely burn a little too fast.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/fR8hGF4t/IMGBurn-burn-advice.gif
Of the bunch of info collected in the example, given the media
failure, I would set the burn speed dropdown to 2.4x for my second try.
DVD writers have programmable laser strength. The ADIP contains
info on "recommended" burn conditions. Erasing, writing, and reading,
all use the appropriate laser color, but at different strengths.
The reading likely uses the weakest laser setting.
Paul
I downloaded Nero but again it didn't put a icon
on the desktop but I verified it was in the Apps.
After some back and forth I managed to get it to
run.
https://postimg.cc/Wt5znvvT # Nero Infotool install
https://postimg.cc/MfHW4nSx # W10 Apps & Features
https://postimg.cc/d79wV2Qw # W10 Apps & Features
https://postimg.cc/1nthRbYr # TSSTCorp TS-H653G DW10
https://postimg.cc/N9LSvm5N # TSSTCorp TS-H653G DW10
https://postimg.cc/R3ZbwKQM # Attempt at a drag-n-drop burn???
I then downloaded the DVDIdentifier App and it left
a desktop icon and ran it:
https://postimg.cc/21zHfht4 # DVD Identifier icon
https://postimg.cc/t7cZbjmD # Running, need to click Identify button
https://postimg.cc/SXmjdNJQ # MKM-003-00 media, newer than my MKM-001-00 media
Robert
On 1/4/2024 11:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I downloaded Nero but again it didn't put a icon
on the desktop but I verified it was in the Apps.
After some back and forth I managed to get it to
run.
https://postimg.cc/Wt5znvvT # Nero Infotool install
https://postimg.cc/MfHW4nSx # W10 Apps & Features
https://postimg.cc/d79wV2Qw # W10 Apps & Features
https://postimg.cc/1nthRbYr # TSSTCorp TS-H653G DW10
https://postimg.cc/N9LSvm5N # TSSTCorp TS-H653G DW10
https://postimg.cc/R3ZbwKQM # Attempt at a drag-n-drop burn???
I then downloaded the DVDIdentifier App and it left
a desktop icon and ran it:
https://postimg.cc/21zHfht4 # DVD Identifier icon
https://postimg.cc/t7cZbjmD # Running, need to click Identify button
https://postimg.cc/SXmjdNJQ # MKM-003-00 media, newer than my MKM-001-00 media
Robert
Your drive: TSSTCorp TS-H653G DW10
Your media: MKM-003-00 (Mine is MKM-001-00)
Once you have the media label, you can Google for info.
https://forum.imgburn.com/topic/23806-failing-on-verification-using-verbatim-mkm-003/
Now, that's the sort of feedback you'd get in the old days.
Not all drives have firmware updates. Some never got a second file.
https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=cnmp3
"This package provides the Firmware update for TSST TS-H653G 16X DVD+/-RW SATA
Version DW10, A02
Release date 05 Jun 2013
Download Type Firmware
"
https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r283463
"TSST TS-H653G 16X DVD+/-RW SATA HH, v.DW20, A03
Version DW20, A03
Release date 18 Oct 2010
Download Type Firmware
"
https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360 <=== Verify details
"This package provides the TSST TS-H653G 16X DVD+/-RW SATA HH Firmware Update
Version DW30, A04
Release date 12 Jul 2011
Download Type Firmware
"
This site lists available firmware, and the DW30 is the latest by their determination.
https://www.firmwarehq.com/Samsung/TS-H653G/files.html
"Version Date desc Filename
DW30 12th July, 2011 R306360.exe <=== Latest I can find
DW20 18th October, 2010 R283463.exe
SB00 31st July, 2009 TS-H653G_SB00.exe
DW10 12th July, 2009 R227071.exe <=== you are at this level
And a KProbe scan uses a Liteon drive, might have been
the requirement. There are a couple levels of error detection,
and Liteon made available a level of uncorrected errors or
something, and that is how the forum people (cdfreaks.com)
used to measure burn results.
This uses one of the other error indicators. I can't get this
to do a scan for error rate. It dims out the Start button if
you try to do an error scan. I'm pretty sure I don't have
the drive hardware features it wants.
https://www.afterdawn.com/software/cd_dvd/dvd_tools/nero_cd_speed.cfm
Name: NeroCDSpeed_47716.zip
Size: 1,071,735 bytes (1046 KiB)
SHA256: 2655F1468B9675C9EFC3CD0B720659F7059A5FE34345D120ED84065665721C2F
The thing about the info in the drive internal database, you can never
be sure how good of a job the firmware people do on them. I've
had drives before where the very first thing you did, was
flash upgrade them, because the drive was released before
the database was available for it.
I don't enjoy firmware updating any more than anyone else.
But at least the Dell flasher should be a bit more intelligent
than some of the ones I've used in the past (they will only
flash the optical drive, if it was on a certain ribbon cable
and connector).
Summary: Update drive firmware first, then burn a second disk at 2.4x .
It is unlikely a speed change alone during burn, will fix it.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/4/2024 11:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I downloaded Nero but again it didn't put a icon
on the desktop but I verified it was in the Apps.
After some back and forth I managed to get it to
run.
https://postimg.cc/Wt5znvvT # Nero Infotool install
https://postimg.cc/MfHW4nSx # W10 Apps & Features
https://postimg.cc/d79wV2Qw # W10 Apps & Features
https://postimg.cc/1nthRbYr # TSSTCorp TS-H653G DW10
https://postimg.cc/N9LSvm5N # TSSTCorp TS-H653G DW10
https://postimg.cc/R3ZbwKQM # Attempt at a drag-n-drop burn???
I then downloaded the DVDIdentifier App and it left
a desktop icon and ran it:
https://postimg.cc/21zHfht4 # DVD Identifier icon
https://postimg.cc/t7cZbjmD # Running, need to click Identify button
https://postimg.cc/SXmjdNJQ # MKM-003-00 media, newer than my MKM-001-00 media
Robert
Your drive: TSSTCorp TS-H653G DW10
Your media: MKM-003-00 (Mine is MKM-001-00)
Once you have the media label, you can Google for info.
https://forum.imgburn.com/topic/23806-failing-on-verification-using-verbatim-mkm-003/
Now, that's the sort of feedback you'd get in the old days.
Not all drives have firmware updates. Some never got a second file.
https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=cnmp3
"This package provides the Firmware update for TSST TS-H653G 16X DVD+/-RW SATA
Version DW10, A02
Release date 05 Jun 2013
Download Type Firmware
"
https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r283463
"TSST TS-H653G 16X DVD+/-RW SATA HH, v.DW20, A03
Version DW20, A03
Release date 18 Oct 2010
Download Type Firmware
"
https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360 <=== Verify details
"This package provides the TSST TS-H653G 16X DVD+/-RW SATA HH Firmware Update
Version DW30, A04
Release date 12 Jul 2011
Download Type Firmware
"
This site lists available firmware, and the DW30 is the latest by their determination.
https://www.firmwarehq.com/Samsung/TS-H653G/files.html
"Version Date desc Filename
DW30 12th July, 2011 R306360.exe <=== Latest I can find
DW20 18th October, 2010 R283463.exe
SB00 31st July, 2009 TS-H653G_SB00.exe
DW10 12th July, 2009 R227071.exe <=== you are at this level
And a KProbe scan uses a Liteon drive, might have been
the requirement. There are a couple levels of error detection,
and Liteon made available a level of uncorrected errors or
something, and that is how the forum people (cdfreaks.com)
used to measure burn results.
This uses one of the other error indicators. I can't get this
to do a scan for error rate. It dims out the Start button if
you try to do an error scan. I'm pretty sure I don't have
the drive hardware features it wants.
https://www.afterdawn.com/software/cd_dvd/dvd_tools/nero_cd_speed.cfm
Name: NeroCDSpeed_47716.zip
Size: 1,071,735 bytes (1046 KiB)
SHA256: 2655F1468B9675C9EFC3CD0B720659F7059A5FE34345D120ED84065665721C2F
The thing about the info in the drive internal database, you can never
be sure how good of a job the firmware people do on them. I've
had drives before where the very first thing you did, was
flash upgrade them, because the drive was released before
the database was available for it.
I don't enjoy firmware updating any more than anyone else.
But at least the Dell flasher should be a bit more intelligent
than some of the ones I've used in the past (they will only
flash the optical drive, if it was on a certain ribbon cable
and connector).
Summary: Update drive firmware first, then burn a second disk at 2.4x .
It is unlikely a speed change alone during burn, will fix it.
Paul
Did you see that not only will Google not allow any posting after 2-22-24
but Usenet content will not appear. Does that mean Seamonkey? If so, I
won't be able to see your posts and you won't be able to see mine?
I get this pop-up every time I logon to the 780 ; I select FF as my homepage and click don't show this message again but it always come back.
https://postimg.cc/Z09NT9Tv # Firefox default browser prompt
https://postimg.cc/xkcfKzpK # Default App interface; showing MSEdge as you would expect
https://postimg.cc/fJyM4XZ1 # Logged as TEMP, should not matter for browser selection, should have worked
Also I still don't have a home page icon in FF (about:blank) I followed your instructions.
I tried your first link but it wasn't compatible. I tried the second link and it worked but what is F/W file: ? where do I find it? I tried browsing for R227071 but it wouldn't let me enter it so I don't know how to proceed to run the download.
https://postimg.cc/wy1k80f7 # Search term should be a bit shorter TS-H653G
https://postimg.cc/bD49zkWL
https://postimg.cc/Z0yLwsvQ
https://postimg.cc/75X15pj5 # R227071 claimed latest, already loaded
https://postimg.cc/Fkj3Nqjs # loading R227071, replacing DW10 with DW10
https://postimg.cc/vDWV1JVG # Dell compatibility dialog, driver release info
https://postimg.cc/nXLjPMwL # Dell unpacks to C:\dell\drivers\R227071\
https://postimg.cc/0KfjtqYm # (create dir)
https://postimg.cc/nC9cj75B # All files unpacked
https://postimg.cc/1nzy9Nwg # Flasher running, does not seem to have FW file
The second and third link were not compatible and
I got a red download warning on the 780 not to download
the Nero application so I didn't.
Robert
https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360
Name: R306360-TS-H653G-DW30.exe
Size: 1910856 bytes (1866 KiB)
SHA256: 786F6FB27FB9AD631C0309EE595F440C82A531D43C7C1A0C59172E134B028D49
[Picture] Flashing it, I'm not sure that is helping (yet)
https://i.postimg.cc/gJGVrjTt/TS-H653G.gif
*******
Compare the profile you see for your MKM-003 versus the center picture here.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/vTSxLFr5/MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif
I have to download an ISO to test.
On 1/6/2024 3:36 PM, Paul wrote:
https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360
Name: R306360-TS-H653G-DW30.exe
Size: 1910856 bytes (1866 KiB)
SHA256: 786F6FB27FB9AD631C0309EE595F440C82A531D43C7C1A0C59172E134B028D49
[Picture] Flashing it, I'm not sure that is helping (yet)
https://i.postimg.cc/gJGVrjTt/TS-H653G.gif
*******
Compare the profile you see for your MKM-003 versus the center picture here. >>
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/vTSxLFr5/MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif
I have to download an ISO to test.
[Picture] Ran a burn at 4X and it seems to be fine.
https://i.postimg.cc/k4VQ4P26/4-X-Write-TS-H653-G-DW30-MKM-003-00.gif
I would try setting the burn to 4X and use a blank disc.
If your profile looks like the center of "MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif",
then you probably don't need to flash up the drive. Since I didn't do
the work in logical order (went up the road and got a sample qty of MKM-003 after burning DW30), I can't really compare how it would have worked
without a firmware update. It's possible the firmware updates were
for "stability of certain operations", rather than the more normal
addition of media labels to database.
According to an article I was reading, the drive can actually do
"calibration burns" in the middle of burning a dual layer disc,
and there is apparently an area of the disc intended for this purpose.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/6/2024 3:36 PM, Paul wrote:
https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360
Name: R306360-TS-H653G-DW30.exe
Size: 1910856 bytes (1866 KiB)
SHA256: 786F6FB27FB9AD631C0309EE595F440C82A531D43C7C1A0C59172E134B028D49 >>>
[Picture] Flashing it, I'm not sure that is helping (yet)
https://i.postimg.cc/gJGVrjTt/TS-H653G.gif
*******
Compare the profile you see for your MKM-003 versus the center picture here.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/vTSxLFr5/MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif
I have to download an ISO to test.
[Picture] Ran a burn at 4X and it seems to be fine.
https://i.postimg.cc/k4VQ4P26/4-X-Write-TS-H653-G-DW30-MKM-003-00.gif
I would try setting the burn to 4X and use a blank disc.
If your profile looks like the center of "MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif",
then you probably don't need to flash up the drive. Since I didn't do
the work in logical order (went up the road and got a sample qty of MKM-003 >> after burning DW30), I can't really compare how it would have worked
without a firmware update. It's possible the firmware updates were
for "stability of certain operations", rather than the more normal
addition of media labels to database.
According to an article I was reading, the drive can actually do
"calibration burns" in the middle of burning a dual layer disc,
and there is apparently an area of the disc intended for this purpose.
Paul
We got so involved with the 780 Win10 I forgot to switch
the hd's and do my mrimgs. So I did that on 1-5-24 then
switched them back.
btw, we have to set-up Win 10 for mrimgs and run one as a
test to make sure it works before were done.
I got my second batch of DVD+RDL's so we have (7) in total
now we can use.
What about Google banning Usernet posts? Are we going to be
affected? Let me know please,
I checked the DVD+RDL
https://postimg.cc/CdDqSL0C
I had to go back and find the H22 download,
Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
This does not use MediaCreationTool.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e
I right clicked it and put it in downloads and then tried to run it at 4X but got this
https://postimg.cc/grvn1SyN
then checked downloads and its only 1KB
https://postimg.cc/342x5NGd
Robert
On 1/7/2024 7:08 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/6/2024 3:36 PM, Paul wrote:
https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360
Name: R306360-TS-H653G-DW30.exe
Size: 1910856 bytes (1866 KiB)
SHA256: 786F6FB27FB9AD631C0309EE595F440C82A531D43C7C1A0C59172E134B028D49 >>>>
[Picture] Flashing it, I'm not sure that is helping (yet)
https://i.postimg.cc/gJGVrjTt/TS-H653G.gif
*******
Compare the profile you see for your MKM-003 versus the center picture here.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/vTSxLFr5/MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif
I have to download an ISO to test.
[Picture] Ran a burn at 4X and it seems to be fine.
https://i.postimg.cc/k4VQ4P26/4-X-Write-TS-H653-G-DW30-MKM-003-00.gif
I would try setting the burn to 4X and use a blank disc.
If your profile looks like the center of "MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif",
then you probably don't need to flash up the drive. Since I didn't do
the work in logical order (went up the road and got a sample qty of MKM-003 >>> after burning DW30), I can't really compare how it would have worked
without a firmware update. It's possible the firmware updates were
for "stability of certain operations", rather than the more normal
addition of media labels to database.
According to an article I was reading, the drive can actually do
"calibration burns" in the middle of burning a dual layer disc,
and there is apparently an area of the disc intended for this purpose.
Paul
We got so involved with the 780 Win10 I forgot to switch
the hd's and do my mrimgs. So I did that on 1-5-24 then
switched them back.
btw, we have to set-up Win 10 for mrimgs and run one as a
test to make sure it works before were done.
I got my second batch of DVD+RDL's so we have (7) in total
now we can use.
What about Google banning Usernet posts? Are we going to be
affected? Let me know please,
I checked the DVD+RDL
https://postimg.cc/CdDqSL0C
I had to go back and find the H22 download,
Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
This does not use MediaCreationTool.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e
I right clicked it and put it in downloads and then tried to run it at 4X but got this
https://postimg.cc/grvn1SyN
then checked downloads and its only 1KB
https://postimg.cc/342x5NGd
Robert
It should take a significant amount of time for a 6.5GB ISO to download.
If your browser is not tied up for an hour doing that, then something is wrong.
It should not take half a second for that, it's a much longer operation.
Here is another link. Microsoft says the link is valid for 24 hours from now. I don't make this stupid scheme of theirs, this is their idea of fun.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=73b5701c-f595-4bd0-a53f-fafbde537b88&e=1704737574&h=1be2b092d4edcbf85aa74e1ffcbc55164a8fab4321b79081101f76ba79571765
If you have a sha256 program, this is the value it should return
if you check the ISO with it. It appears the composition of the disc is
a constant, so there is no "session number" stored inside the ISO. Every
ISO for US-English has the same checksum.
SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E
*******
You should be checking your Seamonkey/Paganini setup and making
sure it works to your satisfaction. For that is what you'll be using
when the Google connection is broken, and Google works in isolation.
Paul
On 1/7/2024 7:08 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/6/2024 3:36 PM, Paul wrote:
https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360
Name: R306360-TS-H653G-DW30.exe
Size: 1910856 bytes (1866 KiB)
SHA256: 786F6FB27FB9AD631C0309EE595F440C82A531D43C7C1A0C59172E134B028D49 >>>>
[Picture] Flashing it, I'm not sure that is helping (yet)
https://i.postimg.cc/gJGVrjTt/TS-H653G.gif
*******
Compare the profile you see for your MKM-003 versus the center picture here.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/vTSxLFr5/MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif
I have to download an ISO to test.
[Picture] Ran a burn at 4X and it seems to be fine.
https://i.postimg.cc/k4VQ4P26/4-X-Write-TS-H653-G-DW30-MKM-003-00.gif
I would try setting the burn to 4X and use a blank disc.
If your profile looks like the center of "MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif",
then you probably don't need to flash up the drive. Since I didn't do
the work in logical order (went up the road and got a sample qty of MKM-003 >>> after burning DW30), I can't really compare how it would have worked
without a firmware update. It's possible the firmware updates were
for "stability of certain operations", rather than the more normal
addition of media labels to database.
According to an article I was reading, the drive can actually do
"calibration burns" in the middle of burning a dual layer disc,
and there is apparently an area of the disc intended for this purpose.
Paul
We got so involved with the 780 Win10 I forgot to switch
the hd's and do my mrimgs. So I did that on 1-5-24 then
switched them back.
btw, we have to set-up Win 10 for mrimgs and run one as a
test to make sure it works before were done.
I got my second batch of DVD+RDL's so we have (7) in total
now we can use.
What about Google banning Usernet posts? Are we going to be
affected? Let me know please,
I checked the DVD+RDL
https://postimg.cc/CdDqSL0C
I had to go back and find the H22 download,
Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
This does not use MediaCreationTool.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e
I right clicked it and put it in downloads and then tried to run it at 4X but got this
https://postimg.cc/grvn1SyN
then checked downloads and its only 1KB
https://postimg.cc/342x5NGd
Robert
It should take a significant amount of time for a 6.5GB ISO to download.
If your browser is not tied up for an hour doing that, then something is wrong.
It should not take half a second for that, it's a much longer operation.
Here is another link. Microsoft says the link is valid for 24 hours from now. I don't make this stupid scheme of theirs, this is their idea of fun.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=73b5701c-f595-4bd0-a53f-fafbde537b88&e=1704737574&h=1be2b092d4edcbf85aa74e1ffcbc55164a8fab4321b79081101f76ba79571765
If you have a sha256 program, this is the value it should return
if you check the ISO with it. It appears the composition of the disc is
a constant, so there is no "session number" stored inside the ISO. Every
ISO for US-English has the same checksum.
SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E
*******
You should be checking your Seamonkey/Paganini setup and making
sure it works to your satisfaction. For that is what you'll be using
when the Google connection is broken, and Google works in isolation.
Paul
On 1/7/2024 7:08 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/6/2024 3:36 PM, Paul wrote:
https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360
Name: R306360-TS-H653G-DW30.exe
Size: 1910856 bytes (1866 KiB)
SHA256: 786F6FB27FB9AD631C0309EE595F440C82A531D43C7C1A0C59172E134B028D49 >>>>
[Picture] Flashing it, I'm not sure that is helping (yet)
https://i.postimg.cc/gJGVrjTt/TS-H653G.gif
*******
Compare the profile you see for your MKM-003 versus the center picture here.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/vTSxLFr5/MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif
I have to download an ISO to test.
[Picture] Ran a burn at 4X and it seems to be fine.
https://i.postimg.cc/k4VQ4P26/4-X-Write-TS-H653-G-DW30-MKM-003-00.gif
I would try setting the burn to 4X and use a blank disc.
If your profile looks like the center of "MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif",
then you probably don't need to flash up the drive. Since I didn't do
the work in logical order (went up the road and got a sample qty of MKM-003 >>> after burning DW30), I can't really compare how it would have worked
without a firmware update. It's possible the firmware updates were
for "stability of certain operations", rather than the more normal
addition of media labels to database.
According to an article I was reading, the drive can actually do
"calibration burns" in the middle of burning a dual layer disc,
and there is apparently an area of the disc intended for this purpose.
Paul
We got so involved with the 780 Win10 I forgot to switch
the hd's and do my mrimgs. So I did that on 1-5-24 then
switched them back.
btw, we have to set-up Win 10 for mrimgs and run one as a
test to make sure it works before were done.
I got my second batch of DVD+RDL's so we have (7) in total
now we can use.
What about Google banning Usernet posts? Are we going to be
affected? Let me know please,
I checked the DVD+RDL
https://postimg.cc/CdDqSL0C
I had to go back and find the H22 download,
Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
This does not use MediaCreationTool.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e
I right clicked it and put it in downloads and then tried to run it at 4X but got this
https://postimg.cc/grvn1SyN
then checked downloads and its only 1KB
https://postimg.cc/342x5NGd
Robert
It should take a significant amount of time for a 6.5GB ISO to download.
If your browser is not tied up for an hour doing that, then something is wrong.
It should not take half a second for that, it's a much longer operation.
Here is another link. Microsoft says the link is valid for 24 hours from now. I don't make this stupid scheme of theirs, this is their idea of fun.
https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=73b5701c-f595-4bd0-a53f-fafbde537b88&e=1704737574&h=1be2b092d4edcbf85aa74e1ffcbc55164a8fab4321b79081101f76ba79571765
If you have a sha256 program, this is the value it should return
if you check the ISO with it. It appears the composition of the disc is
a constant, so there is no "session number" stored inside the ISO. Every
ISO for US-English has the same checksum.
SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E
*******
You should be checking your Seamonkey/Paganini setup and making
sure it works to your satisfaction. For that is what you'll be using
when the Google connection is broken, and Google works in isolation.
Paul
From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.
Thanks,
Robert
Success !!!!
I have been using the Seamonkey/Paganini setup
constantly now and its working as it should. In fact
this post is via Seamonkey. So your saying were OK
then,.. even though it says Usernet's will not be
seen?
I also saved your instructions for setting up Seamonkey
Paganani in case I have any problems.
While waiting I ran the disk cleaner but I didn't
know what to check so I only did temporary files.
It had downloaded program files checked so I
unchecked it as well as thumbnails. I then ran
de-frag.
https://postimg.cc/PLVHtq8t # 20GB in recycle bin
https://postimg.cc/mz0GH6wJ # 77.9GB temporary files %temp%
https://postimg.cc/v1NJJSpT # Defrag running
I tried again, this time it said the download would
take 1 hr 47 minutes apprx. Afterward, I scanned the
download for virus's and malware (hex8). Then used
ImageBurn for H22.
https://postimg.cc/R32Khyh2 # Download file present Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso
https://postimg.cc/5YvvCgFy # Verified burn completed.
I made (3) copies. How should I label them? Win10
installer with the date?
What should we do next?
Robert
On 1/7/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.
Thanks,
Robert
You're sending that with Seamonkey, so it looks like it is working.
*******
You could apply for an account here, but it does not have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
https://www.eternal-september.org/RegisterNewsAccount.php?language=en
*******
And news.mixmin.net on port 563, on a day-to-day basis is not
functional, so it's hard to predict whether it could ever be
used for any practical purpose.
It requires no account. In the server settings, it needs to be
changed from 119 to 563. And have the appropriate SSL/TLS flag flipped.
The admin set it up that way, so post contents could not be viewed
while messages are in transit on the Internet.
It was not allowing posting for a while.
The problem with mixmin seems to be related to disk space on the
server, and the machine never has any space to work and it's
cramped and slow as a result. The server has multiple functions,
and USENET News is not a particular priority item. The admin checks
his USENET server maybe once a month (that's just a rough guess
based on symptoms).
*******
When I tried to get an account on Solani, I did not get a response.
But if you want to try, go ahead. This could function as a
second server, for days when Paganini is down (if ever).
Paganini is available more often than Mixmin :-)
And it might have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general .
https://www.solani.org/
At least they have a web page and all.
It doesn't matter which server you send from, the message is
distributed to all servers (servers that have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general ).
But after Feb 24, 2024, the postings from USENET will not be on GoogleGroups. New posts won't be going there. Posts within GoogleGroups, will stay within GoogleGroups.
|
GoogleGroups | paganini ------- eternal-september Picture as of Feb25,2024
| \ /
| \ /
| mixmin --- Solani USENET
There are other USENET servers, in various states of dis-repair.
One of them for example, is read-only, and when I want to check
how bad the unfiltered spam level is out there, that's the server
I read to check. You can see thousands of spam posts that
the responsible server admins have filtered off.
For the servers requiring registration and an account setup,
those have an expiry time if you are not using the account.
For example, I've used eternal-september for a long time, and
by sending posts all the time, the account does not expire. But
the administrator "harvests" accounts that are not being used,
so the accounts will not be abused by hackers.
Paul
On 1/7/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.
Thanks,
Robert
You're sending that with Seamonkey, so it looks like it is working.
*******
You could apply for an account here, but it does not have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
https://www.eternal-september.org/RegisterNewsAccount.php?language=en
*******
And news.mixmin.net on port 563, on a day-to-day basis is not
functional, so it's hard to predict whether it could ever be
used for any practical purpose.
It requires no account. In the server settings, it needs to be
changed from 119 to 563. And have the appropriate SSL/TLS flag flipped.
The admin set it up that way, so post contents could not be viewed
while messages are in transit on the Internet.
It was not allowing posting for a while.
The problem with mixmin seems to be related to disk space on the
server, and the machine never has any space to work and it's
cramped and slow as a result. The server has multiple functions,
and USENET News is not a particular priority item. The admin checks
his USENET server maybe once a month (that's just a rough guess
based on symptoms).
*******
When I tried to get an account on Solani, I did not get a response.
But if you want to try, go ahead. This could function as a
second server, for days when Paganini is down (if ever).
Paganini is available more often than Mixmin :-)
And it might have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general .
https://www.solani.org/
At least they have a web page and all.
It doesn't matter which server you send from, the message is
distributed to all servers (servers that have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general ).
But after Feb 24, 2024, the postings from USENET will not be on GoogleGroups. New posts won't be going there. Posts within GoogleGroups, will stay within GoogleGroups.
|
GoogleGroups | paganini ------- eternal-september Picture as of Feb25,2024
| \ /
| \ /
| mixmin --- Solani USENET
There are other USENET servers, in various states of dis-repair.
One of them for example, is read-only, and when I want to check
how bad the unfiltered spam level is out there, that's the server
I read to check. You can see thousands of spam posts that
the responsible server admins have filtered off.
For the servers requiring registration and an account setup,
those have an expiry time if you are not using the account.
For example, I've used eternal-september for a long time, and
by sending posts all the time, the account does not expire. But
the administrator "harvests" accounts that are not being used,
so the accounts will not be abused by hackers.
Paul
On 1/7/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.
Thanks,
Robert
You're sending that with Seamonkey, so it looks like it is working.
*******
You could apply for an account here, but it does not have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
https://www.eternal-september.org/RegisterNewsAccount.php?language=en
*******
And news.mixmin.net on port 563, on a day-to-day basis is not
functional, so it's hard to predict whether it could ever be
used for any practical purpose.
It requires no account. In the server settings, it needs to be
changed from 119 to 563. And have the appropriate SSL/TLS flag flipped.
The admin set it up that way, so post contents could not be viewed
while messages are in transit on the Internet.
It was not allowing posting for a while.
The problem with mixmin seems to be related to disk space on the
server, and the machine never has any space to work and it's
cramped and slow as a result. The server has multiple functions,
and USENET News is not a particular priority item. The admin checks
his USENET server maybe once a month (that's just a rough guess
based on symptoms).
*******
When I tried to get an account on Solani, I did not get a response.
But if you want to try, go ahead. This could function as a
second server, for days when Paganini is down (if ever).
Paganini is available more often than Mixmin :-)
And it might have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general .
https://www.solani.org/
At least they have a web page and all.
It doesn't matter which server you send from, the message is
distributed to all servers (servers that have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general ).
But after Feb 24, 2024, the postings from USENET will not be on GoogleGroups. New posts won't be going there. Posts within GoogleGroups, will stay within GoogleGroups.
|
GoogleGroups | paganini ------- eternal-september Picture as of Feb25,2024
| \ /
| \ /
| mixmin --- Solani USENET
There are other USENET servers, in various states of dis-repair.
One of them for example, is read-only, and when I want to check
how bad the unfiltered spam level is out there, that's the server
I read to check. You can see thousands of spam posts that
the responsible server admins have filtered off.
For the servers requiring registration and an account setup,
those have an expiry time if you are not using the account.
For example, I've used eternal-september for a long time, and
by sending posts all the time, the account does not expire. But
the administrator "harvests" accounts that are not being used,
so the accounts will not be abused by hackers.
Paul
On 1/7/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.
Thanks,
Robert
You're sending that with Seamonkey, so it looks like it is working.
*******
You could apply for an account here, but it does not have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
https://www.eternal-september.org/RegisterNewsAccount.php?language=en
*******
And news.mixmin.net on port 563, on a day-to-day basis is not
functional, so it's hard to predict whether it could ever be
used for any practical purpose.
It requires no account. In the server settings, it needs to be
changed from 119 to 563. And have the appropriate SSL/TLS flag flipped.
The admin set it up that way, so post contents could not be viewed
while messages are in transit on the Internet.
It was not allowing posting for a while.
The problem with mixmin seems to be related to disk space on the
server, and the machine never has any space to work and it's
cramped and slow as a result. The server has multiple functions,
and USENET News is not a particular priority item. The admin checks
his USENET server maybe once a month (that's just a rough guess
based on symptoms).
*******
When I tried to get an account on Solani, I did not get a response.
But if you want to try, go ahead. This could function as a
second server, for days when Paganini is down (if ever).
Paganini is available more often than Mixmin :-)
And it might have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general .
https://www.solani.org/
At least they have a web page and all.
It doesn't matter which server you send from, the message is
distributed to all servers (servers that have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general ).
But after Feb 24, 2024, the postings from USENET will not be on GoogleGroups. New posts won't be going there. Posts within GoogleGroups, will stay within GoogleGroups.
|
GoogleGroups | paganini ------- eternal-september Picture as of Feb25,2024
| \ /
| \ /
| mixmin --- Solani USENET
There are other USENET servers, in various states of dis-repair.
One of them for example, is read-only, and when I want to check
how bad the unfiltered spam level is out there, that's the server
I read to check. You can see thousands of spam posts that
the responsible server admins have filtered off.
For the servers requiring registration and an account setup,
those have an expiry time if you are not using the account.
For example, I've used eternal-september for a long time, and
by sending posts all the time, the account does not expire. But
the administrator "harvests" accounts that are not being used,
so the accounts will not be abused by hackers.
Paul
On 1/7/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.
Thanks,
Robert
You're sending that with Seamonkey, so it looks like it is working.
*******
You could apply for an account here, but it does not have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
https://www.eternal-september.org/RegisterNewsAccount.php?language=en
*******
And news.mixmin.net on port 563, on a day-to-day basis is not
functional, so it's hard to predict whether it could ever be
used for any practical purpose.
It requires no account. In the server settings, it needs to be
changed from 119 to 563. And have the appropriate SSL/TLS flag flipped.
The admin set it up that way, so post contents could not be viewed
while messages are in transit on the Internet.
It was not allowing posting for a while.
The problem with mixmin seems to be related to disk space on the
server, and the machine never has any space to work and it's
cramped and slow as a result. The server has multiple functions,
and USENET News is not a particular priority item. The admin checks
his USENET server maybe once a month (that's just a rough guess
based on symptoms).
*******
When I tried to get an account on Solani, I did not get a response.
But if you want to try, go ahead. This could function as a
second server, for days when Paganini is down (if ever).
Paganini is available more often than Mixmin :-)
And it might have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general .
https://www.solani.org/
At least they have a web page and all.
It doesn't matter which server you send from, the message is
distributed to all servers (servers that have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general ).
But after Feb 24, 2024, the postings from USENET will not be on GoogleGroups. New posts won't be going there. Posts within GoogleGroups, will stay within GoogleGroups.
|
GoogleGroups | paganini ------- eternal-september Picture as of Feb25,2024
| \ /
| \ /
| mixmin --- Solani USENET
There are other USENET servers, in various states of dis-repair.
One of them for example, is read-only, and when I want to check
how bad the unfiltered spam level is out there, that's the server
I read to check. You can see thousands of spam posts that
the responsible server admins have filtered off.
For the servers requiring registration and an account setup,
those have an expiry time if you are not using the account.
For example, I've used eternal-september for a long time, and
by sending posts all the time, the account does not expire. But
the administrator "harvests" accounts that are not being used,
so the accounts will not be abused by hackers.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/7/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.
Thanks,
Robert
You're sending that with Seamonkey, so it looks like it is working.
*******
You could apply for an account here, but it does not have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
https://www.eternal-september.org/RegisterNewsAccount.php?language=en
*******
And news.mixmin.net on port 563, on a day-to-day basis is not
functional, so it's hard to predict whether it could ever be
used for any practical purpose.
It requires no account. In the server settings, it needs to be
changed from 119 to 563. And have the appropriate SSL/TLS flag flipped.
The admin set it up that way, so post contents could not be viewed
while messages are in transit on the Internet.
It was not allowing posting for a while.
The problem with mixmin seems to be related to disk space on the
server, and the machine never has any space to work and it's
cramped and slow as a result. The server has multiple functions,
and USENET News is not a particular priority item. The admin checks
his USENET server maybe once a month (that's just a rough guess
based on symptoms).
*******
When I tried to get an account on Solani, I did not get a response.
But if you want to try, go ahead. This could function as a
second server, for days when Paganini is down (if ever).
Paganini is available more often than Mixmin :-)
And it might have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general .
https://www.solani.org/
At least they have a web page and all.
It doesn't matter which server you send from, the message is
distributed to all servers (servers that have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general ).
But after Feb 24, 2024, the postings from USENET will not be on GoogleGroups.
New posts won't be going there. Posts within GoogleGroups, will stay within >> GoogleGroups.
|
GoogleGroups | paganini ------- eternal-september Picture as of Feb25,2024
| \ /
| \ /
| mixmin --- Solani USENET
There are other USENET servers, in various states of dis-repair.
One of them for example, is read-only, and when I want to check
how bad the unfiltered spam level is out there, that's the server
I read to check. You can see thousands of spam posts that
the responsible server admins have filtered off.
For the servers requiring registration and an account setup,
those have an expiry time if you are not using the account.
For example, I've used eternal-september for a long time, and
by sending posts all the time, the account does not expire. But
the administrator "harvests" accounts that are not being used,
so the accounts will not be abused by hackers.
Paul
I would like to delete macrium on the 780 because I keep
getting pop-up's to update it and install my version of macrium.
However I don't seem to have a download for macrium?
Could you please provide one?
Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 1/7/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.
Thanks,
Robert
You're sending that with Seamonkey, so it looks like it is working.
*******
You could apply for an account here, but it does not have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
https://www.eternal-september.org/RegisterNewsAccount.php?language=en
*******
And news.mixmin.net on port 563, on a day-to-day basis is not
functional, so it's hard to predict whether it could ever be
used for any practical purpose.
It requires no account. In the server settings, it needs to be
changed from 119 to 563. And have the appropriate SSL/TLS flag flipped.
The admin set it up that way, so post contents could not be viewed
while messages are in transit on the Internet.
It was not allowing posting for a while.
The problem with mixmin seems to be related to disk space on the
server, and the machine never has any space to work and it's
cramped and slow as a result. The server has multiple functions,
and USENET News is not a particular priority item. The admin checks
his USENET server maybe once a month (that's just a rough guess
based on symptoms).
*******
When I tried to get an account on Solani, I did not get a response.
But if you want to try, go ahead. This could function as a
second server, for days when Paganini is down (if ever).
Paganini is available more often than Mixmin :-)
And it might have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general .
https://www.solani.org/
At least they have a web page and all.
It doesn't matter which server you send from, the message is
distributed to all servers (servers that have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general ).
But after Feb 24, 2024, the postings from USENET will not be on GoogleGroups.
New posts won't be going there. Posts within GoogleGroups, will stay within >> GoogleGroups.
|
GoogleGroups | paganini ------- eternal-september Picture as of Feb25,2024
| \ /
| \ /
| mixmin --- Solani USENET
There are other USENET servers, in various states of dis-repair.
One of them for example, is read-only, and when I want to check
how bad the unfiltered spam level is out there, that's the server
I read to check. You can see thousands of spam posts that
the responsible server admins have filtered off.
For the servers requiring registration and an account setup,
those have an expiry time if you are not using the account.
For example, I've used eternal-september for a long time, and
by sending posts all the time, the account does not expire. But
the administrator "harvests" accounts that are not being used,
so the accounts will not be abused by hackers.
Paul
I applied to Solani so we'll see, but SeaMonkey is working
fine and so we shouldn't have any problems.
I successfully exported/imported my bookmarks to the 780
but I need to get a 1TB Patriot to move My Documents and
have to wait till the 24th before I can order one.
How do I get the default FF homepage to take and all the
pop-ups screens to stop popping up? Like the backup pop up.
I keep saying no thanks but it keeps coming back.
Robert
I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
used it and I had your instructions to go by.
Robert
I checked my email and Solani sent me this.
https://postimg.cc/D8LsdSN9
but I don't know how to use it?
Robert
On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
used it and I had your instructions to go by.
Robert
It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
(On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)
Paul
On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
used it and I had your instructions to go by.
Robert
It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
(On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)
Paul
On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
used it and I had your instructions to go by.
Robert
It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
(On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)
Paul
On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
used it and I had your instructions to go by.
Robert
It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
(On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
used it and I had your instructions to go by.
Robert
It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
(On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)
Paul
This is a test on the 780 Rob 1 User Account Seamonkey
to make sure it’s working. I had to set iot up on Rob1.
I’ve made FF my homepage on the 780 but I still get pop-ups
for Macrium and Windows backup. I want to delete macrium
and download my own version but I don’t seem to have a download
for it? Could you please provide me with one?
Also how do I get rid of the constant Windows backup pop-up?
I just got it again while writing this. We have the mrimgs and
don’t really need it. Btw, once were finished with the 780 we
should run a mrimg on Win 10 to make sure it works.
After that we need to do the 8500 and repeat everything except it
shouldn’t have a User Account with pin numbers unless the pin
number account went with the Win 10 upgrade.
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
used it and I had your instructions to go by.
Robert
It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
(On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)
Paul
I blotted out the password and my email address just to be
safe.
I went to news.solani.org but have no idea what to do.
I has Microsoft.public.Windowsxp.general listed in their
groups but I don't know how to access it? Its saying use my
usename and password with the news.solani.org so I entered
news.solani.org/RobnCApassword but it didn't work.
Yeah but I was working off of Seamonkey program where I
clicked Windows and created a new account. I don't see anything
like that for Solani to open. I'm not following your instructions
for Solani, how do to access Local folder?
Yes, the 780 has macrium but this wasn't on the 780 it was
on the 8500 that I was trying to browse with.
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
used it and I had your instructions to go by.
Robert
It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
(On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)
Paul
I managed to get FF as my default browser on the 780
but still haven't been able to make a homepage in Win10.
I read somewhere that they did away with the homepage
in Win 10, true? It sounds like I can't do about:blank in
Win 10 but it works in Win 7
I don't think I want to go down the sharing path, especially
when you say setting it up is a pain in the ass. I have enough
on my plate as is and the Patriot is simple and easy.
The 8500 has 3.0 USB ports(blue) and the 780 has 2.0 USB
(black)ports. We installed a PCI card with 3.0 USB ports (blue)
on the 780 but its non-functional.
I know there's room on the 780 because the hd is identical to
the 8500 except there's nothing on the 780 at the moment except
my bookmarks. It's empty except for the OS.
Robert
On 1/9/2024 4:30 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
used it and I had your instructions to go by.
Robert
It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
(On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)
Paul
I blotted out the password and my email address just to be
safe.
I went to news.solani.org but have no idea what to do.
I has Microsoft.public.Windowsxp.general listed in their
groups but I don't know how to access it? Its saying use my
usename and password with the news.solani.org so I entered
news.solani.org/RobnCApassword but it didn't work.
Yeah but I was working off of Seamonkey program where I
clicked Windows and created a new account. I don't see anything
like that for Solani to open. I'm not following your instructions
for Solani, how do to access Local folder?
Yes, the 780 has macrium but this wasn't on the 780 it was
on the 8500 that I was trying to browse with.
Robert
When we set up the Paganini account, we used the "Mail and Newsgroups" in Seamonkey.
NOT the web browser portion of Seamonkey. Solani is NOT a Google Groups.
Browsing is HTTP and done in the web browser.
USENET is NNTP done in "Mail and Newsgroups".
Regular email would be "Mail and Newsgroups" as POP3 or IMAP, as examples.
The Seamonkey web browser screen, is the control panel for Seamonkey.
From the Window menu in the web browser, is "Mail and Newsgroup" entry.
It is through that entry, you will be setting up Solani.
From Mail and Newsgroups window, File : New : Other Accounts and
a dialog should appear to enter your Solani details, in the
same way you did it for Paganini.
Seamonkey Web browser
| \
(Normal browsing) \
Window : Mail and Newsgroups (main window)
\
New : Other Accounts
Paul
On 1/10/2024 7:12 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
used it and I had your instructions to go by.
Robert
It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
(On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)
Paul
This is a test on the 780 Rob 1 User Account Seamonkey
to make sure it’s working. I had to set iot up on Rob1.
I’ve made FF my homepage on the 780 but I still get pop-ups
for Macrium and Windows backup. I want to delete macrium
and download my own version but I don’t seem to have a download
for it? Could you please provide me with one?
Also how do I get rid of the constant Windows backup pop-up?
I just got it again while writing this. We have the mrimgs and
don’t really need it. Btw, once were finished with the 780 we
should run a mrimg on Win 10 to make sure it works.
After that we need to do the 8500 and repeat everything except it
shouldn’t have a User Account with pin numbers unless the pin
number account went with the Win 10 upgrade.
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
This won't be available for that many more days. Test it and see.
Save the executable to your Downloads when the dialog pops up.
https://download.macrium.com/reflect/v7/v7.3.6391/reflect_setup_free_x64.exe
You have made Firefox your Default Browser in Windows 10.
Setting starting screens or tabs, would be done from inside Firefox settings. Or alternately, when it needs help, by Notepad hand-editing a setting in prefs.js .
*******
The Macrium and Windows Backup popups come through Notifications.
[Picture] Settings : System : Notifications for things like Backups
https://i.postimg.cc/RZf96X4C/W10-notifications-backup.gif
*******
PIN numbers only get used, if you pay attention to the "every three day" exhortation to "finish setup". I have read that someone had PIN usage
from the very beginning, but presumably they got the full screen dialog
to finish setup and paid attention to that.
You should not be able to get netplwiz capability back again.
It seems that once you start working with multiple accounts,
the interface option to select "no password", it disappears from netplwiz dialog.
Paul
On 1/10/2024 7:12 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
used it and I had your instructions to go by.
Robert
It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
(On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)
Paul
This is a test on the 780 Rob 1 User Account Seamonkey
to make sure it’s working. I had to set iot up on Rob1.
I’ve made FF my homepage on the 780 but I still get pop-ups
for Macrium and Windows backup. I want to delete macrium
and download my own version but I don’t seem to have a download
for it? Could you please provide me with one?
Also how do I get rid of the constant Windows backup pop-up?
I just got it again while writing this. We have the mrimgs and
don’t really need it. Btw, once were finished with the 780 we
should run a mrimg on Win 10 to make sure it works.
After that we need to do the 8500 and repeat everything except it
shouldn’t have a User Account with pin numbers unless the pin
number account went with the Win 10 upgrade.
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
This won't be available for that many more days. Test it and see.
Save the executable to your Downloads when the dialog pops up.
https://download.macrium.com/reflect/v7/v7.3.6391/reflect_setup_free_x64.exe
You have made Firefox your Default Browser in Windows 10.
Setting starting screens or tabs, would be done from inside Firefox settings. Or alternately, when it needs help, by Notepad hand-editing a setting in prefs.js .
*******
The Macrium and Windows Backup popups come through Notifications.
[Picture] Settings : System : Notifications for things like Backups
https://i.postimg.cc/RZf96X4C/W10-notifications-backup.gif
*******
PIN numbers only get used, if you pay attention to the "every three day" exhortation to "finish setup". I have read that someone had PIN usage
from the very beginning, but presumably they got the full screen dialog
to finish setup and paid attention to that.
You should not be able to get netplwiz capability back again.
It seems that once you start working with multiple accounts,
the interface option to select "no password", it disappears from netplwiz dialog.
Paul
On 1/10/2024 7:12 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
used it and I had your instructions to go by.
Robert
It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
(On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)
Paul
This is a test on the 780 Rob 1 User Account Seamonkey
to make sure it’s working. I had to set iot up on Rob1.
I’ve made FF my homepage on the 780 but I still get pop-ups
for Macrium and Windows backup. I want to delete macrium
and download my own version but I don’t seem to have a download
for it? Could you please provide me with one?
Also how do I get rid of the constant Windows backup pop-up?
I just got it again while writing this. We have the mrimgs and
don’t really need it. Btw, once were finished with the 780 we
should run a mrimg on Win 10 to make sure it works.
After that we need to do the 8500 and repeat everything except it
shouldn’t have a User Account with pin numbers unless the pin
number account went with the Win 10 upgrade.
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
This won't be available for that many more days. Test it and see.
Save the executable to your Downloads when the dialog pops up.
https://download.macrium.com/reflect/v7/v7.3.6391/reflect_setup_free_x64.exe
You have made Firefox your Default Browser in Windows 10.
Setting starting screens or tabs, would be done from inside Firefox settings. Or alternately, when it needs help, by Notepad hand-editing a setting in prefs.js .
*******
The Macrium and Windows Backup popups come through Notifications.
[Picture] Settings : System : Notifications for things like Backups
https://i.postimg.cc/RZf96X4C/W10-notifications-backup.gif
*******
PIN numbers only get used, if you pay attention to the "every three day" exhortation to "finish setup". I have read that someone had PIN usage
from the very beginning, but presumably they got the full screen dialog
to finish setup and paid attention to that.
You should not be able to get netplwiz capability back again.
It seems that once you start working with multiple accounts,
the interface option to select "no password", it disappears from netplwiz dialog.
Paul
This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.
Robert
Well I installed the PCI car with the 3.0 ports
but the molex cable had no place to plug into.
Still, once plugged in I expected to see some
drivers pop-up but none did.
So could you provide a driver for it?
I will try Solani again.....
Robert
On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:
This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.
Robert
I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
All with a Solani MID.
Seems to be working.
Paul
On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:
This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.
Robert
I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
All with a Solani MID.
Seems to be working.
Paul
On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:
This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.
Robert
I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
All with a Solani MID.
Seems to be working.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:
This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.
Robert
I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
All with a Solani MID.
Seems to be working.
Paul
I checked Device Manager but I couldn't see anything.
https://postimg.cc/pmKCtX7n
I switched the Win 10 hd with the Win 7 hd and checked to make sure the PCI card was firmly seated then ran the mini disc but it gave the same reply as before and the 3.0 port doesn't respond.
https://postimg.cc/6TThphgK
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:
This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.
Robert
I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
All with a Solani MID.
Seems to be working.
Paul
I deleted macrium so the pop-ups will stop.
Could you please provide a link for macrium
to download?
Thanks,
Robert
On 1/11/2024 12:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:
This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.
Robert
I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
All with a Solani MID.
Seems to be working.
Paul
I deleted macrium so the pop-ups will stop.
Could you please provide a link for macrium
to download?
Thanks,
Robert
I did send it.
Here is the evidence of transmission.
Copy the link out of here, and place in the URL bar.
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cunmbhd%241pnb9%241%40paganini.bofh.team%3E
Paul
On 1/11/2024 12:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:
This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.
Robert
I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
All with a Solani MID.
Seems to be working.
Paul
I deleted macrium so the pop-ups will stop.
Could you please provide a link for macrium
to download?
Thanks,
Robert
I did send it.
Here is the evidence of transmission.
Copy the link out of here, and place in the URL bar.
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cunmbhd%241pnb9%241%40paganini.bofh.team%3E
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/11/2024 12:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:
This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.
Robert
I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
All with a Solani MID.
Seems to be working.
Paul
I deleted macrium so the pop-ups will stop.
Could you please provide a link for macrium
to download?
Thanks,
Robert
I did send it.
Here is the evidence of transmission.
Copy the link out of here, and place in the URL bar.
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cunmbhd%241pnb9%241%40paganini.bofh.team%3E
Paul
I checked Disk Management again under USB and sure enough
it's there but the 3.0 port doesn't respond.
https://postimg.cc/BL0jmVdy # Renesas item is present
I followed your instructions but my results are allot different:
https://postimg.cc/F7c24CqG
https://postimg.cc/R3PYRk6C
https://postimg.cc/47mSFWV6
https://postimg.cc/PvDFdN6N
I download and ran the TreeView program
https://postimg.cc/RNrDXQFt
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 1/11/2024 12:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:
This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.
Robert
I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
All with a Solani MID.
Seems to be working.
Paul
I deleted macrium so the pop-ups will stop.
Could you please provide a link for macrium
to download?
Thanks,
Robert
I did send it.
Here is the evidence of transmission.
Copy the link out of here, and place in the URL bar.
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cunmbhd%241pnb9%241%40paganini.bofh.team%3E
Paul
Your right, you did send it and I remember reading that section but
my eyes must have been glazed over. I ran it and downloaded it and
scanned for malware and virus's (hex8) then installed macrium V 7.3
on the 780. After it installed it asked if I wanted to upgrade to V8.
I wasn't sure so I clicked later. Usually, that's a yes,.. but I just wanted to check with you first.
https://postimg.cc/p97wxN2G
Interesting about the PCI 3.0 ports on the 780 isn't it? It shows its there but doesn't work? I tried another USB with it to test it and nothing.
I put the same USB in the 8500 and it detected it.
Robert
On 1/12/2024 7:01 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/11/2024 12:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:
This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.
Robert
I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
All with a Solani MID.
Seems to be working.
Paul
I deleted macrium so the pop-ups will stop.
Could you please provide a link for macrium
to download?
Thanks,
Robert
I did send it.
Here is the evidence of transmission.
Copy the link out of here, and place in the URL bar.
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cunmbhd%241pnb9%241%40paganini.bofh.team%3E
Paul
Your right, you did send it and I remember reading that section but
my eyes must have been glazed over. I ran it and downloaded it and
scanned for malware and virus's (hex8) then installed macrium V 7.3
on the 780. After it installed it asked if I wanted to upgrade to V8.
I wasn't sure so I clicked later. Usually, that's a yes,.. but I just wanted >> to check with you first.
https://postimg.cc/p97wxN2G
Interesting about the PCI 3.0 ports on the 780 isn't it? It shows its there >> but doesn't work? I tried another USB with it to test it and nothing.
I put the same USB in the 8500 and it detected it.
Robert
Whether you use Macrium V8, would depend on whether you have a V8 Rescue CD. I'm pretty happy here, to use Version 7 for the free full backups it offers. I have the CD for that one.
*******
It still remains to be seen, whether the USB3 port on the Renesas is working. The TreeView program can be left running, while you plug in the powered drive.
If you are using things like 2.5" WD Passport drives, maybe there is not enough current coming from the card for that. But you have 3.5" drives
in a separately-powered external enclosure, and that should work without
any consideration for card power. Don't forget to connect the external
drive to its AC based power source.
Paul
Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to
use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?
However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk
or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0
That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.
Robert
On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to
use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?
However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk
or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0
That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.
Robert
Leave the TreeView running.
Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
(Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
will be evident.)
Plug in the Patriot.
It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.
This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died).
I can put that in this machine, for test.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif
If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it, is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs
GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be
MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.
You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to
use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?
However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk
or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0
That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.
Robert
Leave the TreeView running.
Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
(Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
will be evident.)
Plug in the Patriot.
It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.
This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died).
I can put that in this machine, for test.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif
If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it, >> is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs
GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be
MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.
You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.
Paul
I followed your instructions:
https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h
https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7
https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M
here's Disk Management
https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8
Robert
On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to
use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?
However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0
That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.
Robert
Leave the TreeView running.
Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
(Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
will be evident.)
Plug in the Patriot.
It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.
This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died).
I can put that in this machine, for test.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif >>>
If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs >>> GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be
MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.
You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.
Paul
I followed your instructions:
https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h
https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7
https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M
here's Disk Management
https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8
Robert
Hmmmm.
Have you tried all the ports ?
If they wanted to, they could definitely design
a card that needs the aux power connected to a
power cable. But that is not normal practice.
Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.
Paul
On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to
use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?
However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0
That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.
Robert
Leave the TreeView running.
Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
(Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
will be evident.)
Plug in the Patriot.
It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.
This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died).
I can put that in this machine, for test.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif >>>
If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs >>> GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be
MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.
You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.
Paul
I followed your instructions:
https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h
https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7
https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M
here's Disk Management
https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8
Robert
Hmmmm.
Have you tried all the ports ?
If they wanted to, they could definitely design
a card that needs the aux power connected to a
power cable. But that is not normal practice.
Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to >>>>> use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?
However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0
That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.
Robert
Leave the TreeView running.
Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
(Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
will be evident.)
Plug in the Patriot.
It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.
This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died).
I can put that in this machine, for test.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif >>>>
If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs >>>> GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be
MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.
You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.
Paul
I followed your instructions:
https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h
https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7
https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M
here's Disk Management
https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8
Robert
Hmmmm.
Have you tried all the ports ?
If they wanted to, they could definitely design
a card that needs the aux power connected to a
power cable. But that is not normal practice.
Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.
Paul
I noticed Windows Security had a yellow triangle under hidden icons.
Could you please tell me whether I should dismiss these items or
should I sign-in and or turn on?
https://postimg.cc/k27zDFVx
Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to >>>>> use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?
However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0
That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.
Robert
Leave the TreeView running.
Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
(Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
will be evident.)
Plug in the Patriot.
It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.
This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died).
I can put that in this machine, for test.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif >>>>
If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs >>>> GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be
MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.
You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.
Paul
I followed your instructions:
https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h
https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7
https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M
here's Disk Management
https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8
Robert
Hmmmm.
Have you tried all the ports ?
If they wanted to, they could definitely design
a card that needs the aux power connected to a
power cable. But that is not normal practice.
Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.
Paul
Yes, I've tried both 3.0 ports,.. nothing, so I put it in
a 2.0 port so you see the change; its Port 1. I was
using the USB Adaptor with Sandisk.
https://postimg.cc/KRpBgmjJ
I also saw this when I checked hidden icons:
https://postimg.cc/Yv4g6Tmk
I right clicked it - One drive isn't connected?
https://postimg.cc/XpPBYx1P
Robert
On 1/14/2024 8:19 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to >>>>>> use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?
However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0
That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.
Robert
Leave the TreeView running.
Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
(Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
will be evident.)
Plug in the Patriot.
It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.
This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died). >>>>> I can put that in this machine, for test.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif
If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs >>>>> GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be >>>>> MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.
You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.
Paul
I followed your instructions:
https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h
https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7
https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M
here's Disk Management
https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8
Robert
Hmmmm.
Have you tried all the ports ?
If they wanted to, they could definitely design
a card that needs the aux power connected to a
power cable. But that is not normal practice.
Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.
Paul
I noticed Windows Security had a yellow triangle under hidden icons.
Could you please tell me whether I should dismiss these items or
should I sign-in and or turn on?
https://postimg.cc/k27zDFVx
Thanks,
Robert
Adding an MSA, would cause the password to be stored in the Cloud.
There would be a recovery procedure, you could answer security
questions and "recover your password", perhaps via email.
But you already know how to hack your way into the computer,
so you hardly need this.
You might need an MSA some day, to get software from the Microsoft Store.
For example, there's some CODEC that costs $1.50 or so, which may help
with movie playback or something. But generally, there isn't a lot
of reasons to go there.
A yellow triangle could be a real security issue.
But just as easily, it could be a message from a marketing weasel.
*******
You get a small amount of free storage on OneDrive. It might be
great for distributing materials. Or as a kind of backup
for a few items in your Downloads folder. You can control the
distribution to make it private or public, and public is what
you'd use for your "cat photos" :-) Then you would give other
people a "link" to the cat photo. That's the sort of thing you
could do with OneDrive. But for basic backups, you have local
hard drives that are working just fine.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/14/2024 8:19 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to >>>>>>> use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?
However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>>>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0
That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.
Robert
Leave the TreeView running.
Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
(Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
will be evident.)
Plug in the Patriot.
It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.
This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died). >>>>>> I can put that in this machine, for test.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif
If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs
GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be >>>>>> MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.
You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.
Paul
I followed your instructions:
https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h
https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7
https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M
here's Disk Management
https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8
Robert
Hmmmm.
Have you tried all the ports ?
If they wanted to, they could definitely design
a card that needs the aux power connected to a
power cable. But that is not normal practice.
Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.
Paul
I noticed Windows Security had a yellow triangle under hidden icons.
Could you please tell me whether I should dismiss these items or
should I sign-in and or turn on?
https://postimg.cc/k27zDFVx
Thanks,
Robert
Adding an MSA, would cause the password to be stored in the Cloud.
There would be a recovery procedure, you could answer security
questions and "recover your password", perhaps via email.
But you already know how to hack your way into the computer,
so you hardly need this.
You might need an MSA some day, to get software from the Microsoft Store.
For example, there's some CODEC that costs $1.50 or so, which may help
with movie playback or something. But generally, there isn't a lot
of reasons to go there.
A yellow triangle could be a real security issue.
But just as easily, it could be a message from a marketing weasel.
*******
You get a small amount of free storage on OneDrive. It might be
great for distributing materials. Or as a kind of backup
for a few items in your Downloads folder. You can control the
distribution to make it private or public, and public is what
you'd use for your "cat photos" :-) Then you would give other
people a "link" to the cat photo. That's the sort of thing you
could do with OneDrive. But for basic backups, you have local
hard drives that are working just fine.
Paul
This is the card I bought:
https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019
I have to say its hard to find Treeview on
Win 10,.. it doesn't have the All Programs
that Win 7 Pro does.
What about the Account Protection and App
& Browser Control with yellow triangles?
dismiss them?
https://postlmg.cc/k27zDFVx
Things still to do...
1. make a homepage on Win 10 with about:blank
2. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
via 1TB Patriot(I'll order it on the 24th).
3. create a mrimg on Win 10 when your satisfied
were done.
4. do the 8500 Win 10, I checked and it only
will hold one hd at a time. So I'll have to
physically remove the Win 7 Pro hd and replace
it with Win 10 hd. It also has no hd harness
like the 780 but is screwed directly into the
frame with (4) screws.
I've done it before but you'd think they would
design it a bit more user friendly.
Thoughts/Suggestions?
Robert
On 1/15/2024 9:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/14/2024 8:19 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to >>>>>>>> use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?
However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>>>>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0
That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.
Robert
Leave the TreeView running.
Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
(Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
will be evident.)
Plug in the Patriot.
It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.
This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died). >>>>>>> I can put that in this machine, for test.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif
If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs
GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be >>>>>>> MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.
You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.
Paul
I followed your instructions:
https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h
https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7
https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M
here's Disk Management
https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8
Robert
Hmmmm.
Have you tried all the ports ?
If they wanted to, they could definitely design
a card that needs the aux power connected to a
power cable. But that is not normal practice.
Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.
Paul
I noticed Windows Security had a yellow triangle under hidden icons.
Could you please tell me whether I should dismiss these items or
should I sign-in and or turn on?
https://postimg.cc/k27zDFVx
Thanks,
Robert
Adding an MSA, would cause the password to be stored in the Cloud.
There would be a recovery procedure, you could answer security
questions and "recover your password", perhaps via email.
But you already know how to hack your way into the computer,
so you hardly need this.
You might need an MSA some day, to get software from the Microsoft Store. >>> For example, there's some CODEC that costs $1.50 or so, which may help
with movie playback or something. But generally, there isn't a lot
of reasons to go there.
A yellow triangle could be a real security issue.
But just as easily, it could be a message from a marketing weasel.
*******
You get a small amount of free storage on OneDrive. It might be
great for distributing materials. Or as a kind of backup
for a few items in your Downloads folder. You can control the
distribution to make it private or public, and public is what
you'd use for your "cat photos" :-) Then you would give other
people a "link" to the cat photo. That's the sort of thing you
could do with OneDrive. But for basic backups, you have local
hard drives that are working just fine.
Paul
This is the card I bought:
https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019
I have to say its hard to find Treeview on
Win 10,.. it doesn't have the All Programs
that Win 7 Pro does.
What about the Account Protection and App
& Browser Control with yellow triangles?
dismiss them?
https://postlmg.cc/k27zDFVx
Things still to do...
1. make a homepage on Win 10 with about:blank
2. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
via 1TB Patriot(I'll order it on the 24th).
3. create a mrimg on Win 10 when your satisfied
were done.
4. do the 8500 Win 10, I checked and it only
will hold one hd at a time. So I'll have to
physically remove the Win 7 Pro hd and replace
it with Win 10 hd. It also has no hd harness
like the 780 but is screwed directly into the
frame with (4) screws.
I've done it before but you'd think they would
design it a bit more user friendly.
Thoughts/Suggestions?
Robert
They do mention the power cable, but it only gets mentioned
in the "Windows says the USB device is not getting enough power"
section of the manual.
https://www.vantecusa.com/CKEdit/images/files/ugt-pc345_manual.pdf
Like my card, it does seem the design of yours has potentially
the right materials on board. There is a 2 ampere power
converter in the upper left corner. A converter for core power
for the chip. And what could be a schottky diode ORing scheme
for +5V summation with the onboard 5V2A converter.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/R0sjTmck/vantecusa-ugt-pc345-USB3-4port.jpg
The reviews on Newegg, have mixed some other product reviews in,
specifically the VIA chipset board that does not work as well
(some versions of driver are buggy for that one).
But a couple people mention they could not get external
device detection unless the "optional" power cable (Molex 1x4)
is connected to the ugt-pc345.
See if your card exactly matches the Newegg picture or see if
there are "more de-pops" on your physical card than the example
photos. It's unlikely they would test the card at the factory
(with optional connector disconnected) and not notice the
power converter was not working.
Since the device seems to show up, it's my wild guess the
Renesas 720201 is getting core power, the firmware is loading,
but perhaps there's no VBUS on the external USB3 connectors. And that would play a part if failing to detect.
*******
This is a LP4 Female to two LP4 males. A Y cable.
https://www.newegg.com/multi-color-startech-9-cable-connectors/p/N82E16812200042
Normally these are relatively short. A "good" one might be at best 9 inches on either side of the Y.
I have one Y cable, which is 18 inches on one leg and 9 inches on the
other leg. This cable came with an ATI video card, and presumably the
long cable, was to reach the end of the ATI 9800Pro, something like that.
You can place multiple Y cables in-line, to achieve a longer length on
one leg.
You could for example, take the Molex off one of your optical drives,
and insert a Y in there. The short side of the Y cables would go
to the optical drive. The extended path of multiple Y cables, would
reach all the way down to the USB card.
ATX Molex male --- female lp4lp4 --------- to optical drive
6 \
6 \
female lp4lp4 ---------X
\
6 \
female lp4lp4 ---------X
\
6 \
Renesas
AuxPower
ATX Molex male --- female lp4lp4 --------- to optical drive
9 \
9 \
\
female lp4lp4 ---------X
\
9 \
\
Renesas
AuxPower
Using my boundless supply of spare wire, I'd just cut one leg of the
Y in two pieces, and insert pieces of extension wire, to make a single asymmetric Y long enough for the job. But, you need flexible wire.
Lamp cord wire is heavy enough. You'd need a nice lamp cord wire
you could split, to maintain good flexibility. and you need an excellent supply of Marettes/WireNuts to make the connections. Soldering and using Polyolefin sleeves is too much work. As long as you use the right size
of WireNut, you can extend a Molex Y.
Anyway, that's an illustration of how you'd get power down there.
It's too bad the damn Y cables are so short, because for this job,
the longer the individual units are, the fewer (in-a-row) needed.
I'm guessing the distance is at least 20 inches, and you want a bit
of slack, as making it like a guitar string is not convenient
when working inside a PC.
The reason all these theatrics are required, is the PCIe connector
only has +3.3V and +12V in the power section of the edge connector,
and there's no incoming +5V. The onboard 2 amp converter is
supposed to convert +12V to +5V (buck converter) and do it relatively efficiently so the chip does not get too hot. Using the Aux Connector,
the +5V on the Y-cable can be used without conversion. Only
if they "forgot" to install the converter in the upper left
corner, should the card be devoid of VBUS on the external connector.
Paul
On 1/15/2024 9:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/14/2024 8:19 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to >>>>>>>> use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?
However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>>>>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0
That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.
Robert
Leave the TreeView running.
Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
(Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
will be evident.)
Plug in the Patriot.
It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.
This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died). >>>>>>> I can put that in this machine, for test.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif
If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs
GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be >>>>>>> MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.
You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.
Paul
I followed your instructions:
https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h
https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7
https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M
here's Disk Management
https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8
Robert
Hmmmm.
Have you tried all the ports ?
If they wanted to, they could definitely design
a card that needs the aux power connected to a
power cable. But that is not normal practice.
Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.
Paul
I noticed Windows Security had a yellow triangle under hidden icons.
Could you please tell me whether I should dismiss these items or
should I sign-in and or turn on?
https://postimg.cc/k27zDFVx
Thanks,
Robert
Adding an MSA, would cause the password to be stored in the Cloud.
There would be a recovery procedure, you could answer security
questions and "recover your password", perhaps via email.
But you already know how to hack your way into the computer,
so you hardly need this.
You might need an MSA some day, to get software from the Microsoft Store. >>> For example, there's some CODEC that costs $1.50 or so, which may help
with movie playback or something. But generally, there isn't a lot
of reasons to go there.
A yellow triangle could be a real security issue.
But just as easily, it could be a message from a marketing weasel.
*******
You get a small amount of free storage on OneDrive. It might be
great for distributing materials. Or as a kind of backup
for a few items in your Downloads folder. You can control the
distribution to make it private or public, and public is what
you'd use for your "cat photos" :-) Then you would give other
people a "link" to the cat photo. That's the sort of thing you
could do with OneDrive. But for basic backups, you have local
hard drives that are working just fine.
Paul
This is the card I bought:
https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019
I have to say its hard to find Treeview on
Win 10,.. it doesn't have the All Programs
that Win 7 Pro does.
What about the Account Protection and App
& Browser Control with yellow triangles?
dismiss them?
https://postlmg.cc/k27zDFVx
Things still to do...
1. make a homepage on Win 10 with about:blank
2. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
via 1TB Patriot(I'll order it on the 24th).
3. create a mrimg on Win 10 when your satisfied
were done.
4. do the 8500 Win 10, I checked and it only
will hold one hd at a time. So I'll have to
physically remove the Win 7 Pro hd and replace
it with Win 10 hd. It also has no hd harness
like the 780 but is screwed directly into the
frame with (4) screws.
I've done it before but you'd think they would
design it a bit more user friendly.
Thoughts/Suggestions?
Robert
They do mention the power cable, but it only gets mentioned
in the "Windows says the USB device is not getting enough power"
section of the manual.
https://www.vantecusa.com/CKEdit/images/files/ugt-pc345_manual.pdf
Like my card, it does seem the design of yours has potentially
the right materials on board. There is a 2 ampere power
converter in the upper left corner. A converter for core power
for the chip. And what could be a schottky diode ORing scheme
for +5V summation with the onboard 5V2A converter.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/R0sjTmck/vantecusa-ugt-pc345-USB3-4port.jpg
The reviews on Newegg, have mixed some other product reviews in,
specifically the VIA chipset board that does not work as well
(some versions of driver are buggy for that one).
But a couple people mention they could not get external
device detection unless the "optional" power cable (Molex 1x4)
is connected to the ugt-pc345.
See if your card exactly matches the Newegg picture or see if
there are "more de-pops" on your physical card than the example
photos. It's unlikely they would test the card at the factory
(with optional connector disconnected) and not notice the
power converter was not working.
Since the device seems to show up, it's my wild guess the
Renesas 720201 is getting core power, the firmware is loading,
but perhaps there's no VBUS on the external USB3 connectors. And that would play a part if failing to detect.
*******
This is a LP4 Female to two LP4 males. A Y cable.
https://www.newegg.com/multi-color-startech-9-cable-connectors/p/N82E16812200042
Normally these are relatively short. A "good" one might be at best 9 inches on either side of the Y.
I have one Y cable, which is 18 inches on one leg and 9 inches on the
other leg. This cable came with an ATI video card, and presumably the
long cable, was to reach the end of the ATI 9800Pro, something like that.
You can place multiple Y cables in-line, to achieve a longer length on
one leg.
You could for example, take the Molex off one of your optical drives,
and insert a Y in there. The short side of the Y cables would go
to the optical drive. The extended path of multiple Y cables, would
reach all the way down to the USB card.
ATX Molex male --- female lp4lp4 --------- to optical drive
6 \
6 \
female lp4lp4 ---------X
\
6 \
female lp4lp4 ---------X
\
6 \
Renesas
AuxPower
ATX Molex male --- female lp4lp4 --------- to optical drive
9 \
9 \
\
female lp4lp4 ---------X
\
9 \
\
Renesas
AuxPower
Using my boundless supply of spare wire, I'd just cut one leg of the
Y in two pieces, and insert pieces of extension wire, to make a single asymmetric Y long enough for the job. But, you need flexible wire.
Lamp cord wire is heavy enough. You'd need a nice lamp cord wire
you could split, to maintain good flexibility. and you need an excellent supply of Marettes/WireNuts to make the connections. Soldering and using Polyolefin sleeves is too much work. As long as you use the right size
of WireNut, you can extend a Molex Y.
Anyway, that's an illustration of how you'd get power down there.
It's too bad the damn Y cables are so short, because for this job,
the longer the individual units are, the fewer (in-a-row) needed.
I'm guessing the distance is at least 20 inches, and you want a bit
of slack, as making it like a guitar string is not convenient
when working inside a PC.
The reason all these theatrics are required, is the PCIe connector
only has +3.3V and +12V in the power section of the edge connector,
and there's no incoming +5V. The onboard 2 amp converter is
supposed to convert +12V to +5V (buck converter) and do it relatively efficiently so the chip does not get too hot. Using the Aux Connector,
the +5V on the Y-cable can be used without conversion. Only
if they "forgot" to install the converter in the upper left
corner, should the card be devoid of VBUS on the external connector.
Paul
Here's TreeViwer:
https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 1/15/2024 9:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/14/2024 8:19 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to >>>>>>>>> use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?
However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk
or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0
That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.
Robert
Leave the TreeView running.
Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
(Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
will be evident.)
Plug in the Patriot.
It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.
This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died). >>>>>>>> I can put that in this machine, for test.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif
If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs
GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be >>>>>>>> MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.
You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress. >>>>>>>>
Paul
I followed your instructions:
https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h
https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7
https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M
here's Disk Management
https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8
Robert
Hmmmm.
Have you tried all the ports ?
If they wanted to, they could definitely design
a card that needs the aux power connected to a
power cable. But that is not normal practice.
Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.
Paul
I noticed Windows Security had a yellow triangle under hidden icons. >>>>> Could you please tell me whether I should dismiss these items or
should I sign-in and or turn on?
https://postimg.cc/k27zDFVx
Thanks,
Robert
Adding an MSA, would cause the password to be stored in the Cloud.
There would be a recovery procedure, you could answer security
questions and "recover your password", perhaps via email.
But you already know how to hack your way into the computer,
so you hardly need this.
You might need an MSA some day, to get software from the Microsoft Store. >>>> For example, there's some CODEC that costs $1.50 or so, which may help >>>> with movie playback or something. But generally, there isn't a lot
of reasons to go there.
A yellow triangle could be a real security issue.
But just as easily, it could be a message from a marketing weasel.
*******
You get a small amount of free storage on OneDrive. It might be
great for distributing materials. Or as a kind of backup
for a few items in your Downloads folder. You can control the
distribution to make it private or public, and public is what
you'd use for your "cat photos" :-) Then you would give other
people a "link" to the cat photo. That's the sort of thing you
could do with OneDrive. But for basic backups, you have local
hard drives that are working just fine.
Paul
This is the card I bought:
https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019
I have to say its hard to find Treeview on
Win 10,.. it doesn't have the All Programs
that Win 7 Pro does.
What about the Account Protection and App
& Browser Control with yellow triangles?
dismiss them?
https://postlmg.cc/k27zDFVx
Things still to do...
1. make a homepage on Win 10 with about:blank
2. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
via 1TB Patriot(I'll order it on the 24th).
3. create a mrimg on Win 10 when your satisfied
were done.
4. do the 8500 Win 10, I checked and it only
will hold one hd at a time. So I'll have to
physically remove the Win 7 Pro hd and replace
it with Win 10 hd. It also has no hd harness
like the 780 but is screwed directly into the
frame with (4) screws.
I've done it before but you'd think they would
design it a bit more user friendly.
Thoughts/Suggestions?
Robert
They do mention the power cable, but it only gets mentioned
in the "Windows says the USB device is not getting enough power"
section of the manual.
https://www.vantecusa.com/CKEdit/images/files/ugt-pc345_manual.pdf
Like my card, it does seem the design of yours has potentially
the right materials on board. There is a 2 ampere power
converter in the upper left corner. A converter for core power
for the chip. And what could be a schottky diode ORing scheme
for +5V summation with the onboard 5V2A converter.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/R0sjTmck/vantecusa-ugt-pc345-USB3-4port.jpg
The reviews on Newegg, have mixed some other product reviews in,
specifically the VIA chipset board that does not work as well
(some versions of driver are buggy for that one).
But a couple people mention they could not get external
device detection unless the "optional" power cable (Molex 1x4)
is connected to the ugt-pc345.
See if your card exactly matches the Newegg picture or see if
there are "more de-pops" on your physical card than the example
photos. It's unlikely they would test the card at the factory
(with optional connector disconnected) and not notice the
power converter was not working.
Since the device seems to show up, it's my wild guess the
Renesas 720201 is getting core power, the firmware is loading,
but perhaps there's no VBUS on the external USB3 connectors. And that would >> play a part if failing to detect.
*******
This is a LP4 Female to two LP4 males. A Y cable.
https://www.newegg.com/multi-color-startech-9-cable-connectors/p/N82E16812200042
Normally these are relatively short. A "good" one might be at best 9 inches >> on either side of the Y.
I have one Y cable, which is 18 inches on one leg and 9 inches on the
other leg. This cable came with an ATI video card, and presumably the
long cable, was to reach the end of the ATI 9800Pro, something like that.
You can place multiple Y cables in-line, to achieve a longer length on
one leg.
You could for example, take the Molex off one of your optical drives,
and insert a Y in there. The short side of the Y cables would go
to the optical drive. The extended path of multiple Y cables, would
reach all the way down to the USB card.
ATX Molex male --- female lp4lp4 --------- to optical drive
6 \
6 \
female lp4lp4 ---------X
\
6 \
female lp4lp4 ---------X
\
6 \
Renesas >> AuxPower
ATX Molex male --- female lp4lp4 --------- to optical drive
9 \
9 \
\
female lp4lp4 ---------X
\
9 \
\
Renesas >> AuxPower >>
Using my boundless supply of spare wire, I'd just cut one leg of the
Y in two pieces, and insert pieces of extension wire, to make a single
asymmetric Y long enough for the job. But, you need flexible wire.
Lamp cord wire is heavy enough. You'd need a nice lamp cord wire
you could split, to maintain good flexibility. and you need an excellent
supply of Marettes/WireNuts to make the connections. Soldering and using
Polyolefin sleeves is too much work. As long as you use the right size
of WireNut, you can extend a Molex Y.
Anyway, that's an illustration of how you'd get power down there.
It's too bad the damn Y cables are so short, because for this job,
the longer the individual units are, the fewer (in-a-row) needed.
I'm guessing the distance is at least 20 inches, and you want a bit
of slack, as making it like a guitar string is not convenient
when working inside a PC.
The reason all these theatrics are required, is the PCIe connector
only has +3.3V and +12V in the power section of the edge connector,
and there's no incoming +5V. The onboard 2 amp converter is
supposed to convert +12V to +5V (buck converter) and do it relatively
efficiently so the chip does not get too hot. Using the Aux Connector,
the +5V on the Y-cable can be used without conversion. Only
if they "forgot" to install the converter in the upper left
corner, should the card be devoid of VBUS on the external connector.
Paul
Success!
You pointed me in the right direction. I used the
optical drive cable and connected it to the PCI
Molex cable.
https://postimg.cc/vgkctGCP # Can't disable optical drive, without informing BIOS SATA enables
https://postimg.cc/mzvgF8FJ # USB stick seen
https://postimg.cc/N2twcVXs # Properties, 8GB stick
https://postimg.cc/LJWKXhP0 # Safely remove icon
https://postimg.cc/3dR3Js6N # Has an eject, could be NTFS.
I'll have to put the optical cable back of course, but
I wanted to test it and see if it would work.
I'll have to order cables on the 24th,.. but I don't
know if the one you showed will be long enough?
I'll need male/female connections. one for the PCI
card and one for the optical cable connection.
What about the Windows Security yellow triangles?
Should I dismiss them or what?
https://postlmg.cc/k27zDFVx
Robert
On 1/15/2024 5:16 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here's TreeViwer:
https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S
Robert
Yup. Looks good.
Paul
On 1/15/2024 5:16 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here's TreeViwer:
https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S
Robert
Yup. Looks good.
Paul
On 1/15/2024 5:16 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here's TreeViwer:
https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S
Robert
Yup. Looks good.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/15/2024 5:16 PM, Robert in CA wrote:I need another source for the Y cable beside Amazon.
Here's TreeViwer:
https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S
Robert
Yup. Looks good.
Paul
Remember my account there has a snafu that they can't
resolve so I don't deal with them anymore.
I know what you mean about the lack of merchandize;
when I went looking for DVD+RDL's I went to 3 stores
and all of them had very little on the shelves and no
DVD-RDL's and ended up having to buy them eBay.
I'll leave the yellow triangles as is,...
How do I make FF my homepage in Win10? and then
make about:blank my homepage?.
Things still to do...
1. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
2. buy molex cables for PCI 3.0 ports and attach to optical cable
3. created mrimg on 780 Win 10 when your satisfied
were done.
4. do the 8500 Win 10
Robert
On 1/15/2024 11:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/15/2024 5:16 PM, Robert in CA wrote:I need another source for the Y cable beside Amazon.
Here's TreeViwer:
https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S
Robert
Yup. Looks good.
Paul
Remember my account there has a snafu that they can't
resolve so I don't deal with them anymore.
I know what you mean about the lack of merchandize;
when I went looking for DVD+RDL's I went to 3 stores
and all of them had very little on the shelves and no
DVD-RDL's and ended up having to buy them eBay.
I'll leave the yellow triangles as is,...
How do I make FF my homepage in Win10? and then
make about:blank my homepage?.
Things still to do...
1. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
2. buy molex cables for PCI 3.0 ports and attach to optical cable
3. created mrimg on 780 Win 10 when your satisfied
were done.
4. do the 8500 Win 10
Robert
You could get three or four of these. They're Molex Y but only 8".
Four would give a bit of slack. Per requirements, each USB port has
a 100uF electrolytic for VBus, and that's an anti-sag thing for
VBUS during inrush. Things like USB keys, are allowed 10uF of
capacitance for filtering, on their end. Intel, in its whitepaper
for designers, states that 100uF on the host end, helps provide
charge current to fill up a 10uF load on the peripheral. The
capacitors also help with things like your extension cable project.
Y-cable 8 inch legs, chain up to four to reach card and have slack $2.99 each
https://www.microcenter.com/product/322061/evercool-4-pin-molex-power-y-cable-8
These are too expensive for the length of wire provided. There's
more wire and materials in the previous item, so this is just gouging.
https://www.microcenter.com/product/618362/micro-connectors-4-pin-lp4-male-to-4-pin-lp4-female-power-extension-cable-10-in
*******
This is where you set the default browser.
Settings : Apps : Default Apps
*******
Setting the homepage is harder.
I didn't do a very good job on this one, it's not really coherent :-)
The purpose of adding the new preference, is to try to avoid the
homepage being overridden the next time the browser is updated
(which is quite often). Just because you add a preference, does not
mean the browser code uses the preference. It is a form of wishful
thinking.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/RF4VzzPp/firefox-fix-newpage.gif
Mozilla provides documentation, but it's guesswork as to what they really do.
https://kb.mozillazine.org/Browser.startup.homepage_override.mstone
https://kb.mozillazine.org/Startup.homepage_override_url
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/15/2024 11:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/15/2024 5:16 PM, Robert in CA wrote:I need another source for the Y cable beside Amazon.
Here's TreeViwer:
https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S
Robert
Yup. Looks good.
Paul
Remember my account there has a snafu that they can't
resolve so I don't deal with them anymore.
I know what you mean about the lack of merchandize;
when I went looking for DVD+RDL's I went to 3 stores
and all of them had very little on the shelves and no
DVD-RDL's and ended up having to buy them eBay.
I'll leave the yellow triangles as is,...
How do I make FF my homepage in Win10? and then
make about:blank my homepage?.
Things still to do...
1. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
2. buy molex cables for PCI 3.0 ports and attach to optical cable
3. created mrimg on 780 Win 10 when your satisfied
were done.
4. do the 8500 Win 10
Robert
You could get three or four of these. They're Molex Y but only 8".
Four would give a bit of slack. Per requirements, each USB port has
a 100uF electrolytic for VBus, and that's an anti-sag thing for
VBUS during inrush. Things like USB keys, are allowed 10uF of
capacitance for filtering, on their end. Intel, in its whitepaper
for designers, states that 100uF on the host end, helps provide
charge current to fill up a 10uF load on the peripheral. The
capacitors also help with things like your extension cable project.
Y-cable 8 inch legs, chain up to four to reach card and have slack $2.99 each
https://www.microcenter.com/product/322061/evercool-4-pin-molex-power-y-cable-8
These are too expensive for the length of wire provided. There's
more wire and materials in the previous item, so this is just gouging.
https://www.microcenter.com/product/618362/micro-connectors-4-pin-lp4-male-to-4-pin-lp4-female-power-extension-cable-10-in
*******
This is where you set the default browser.
Settings : Apps : Default Apps
*******
Setting the homepage is harder.
I didn't do a very good job on this one, it's not really coherent :-)
The purpose of adding the new preference, is to try to avoid the
homepage being overridden the next time the browser is updated
(which is quite often). Just because you add a preference, does not
mean the browser code uses the preference. It is a form of wishful
thinking.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/RF4VzzPp/firefox-fix-newpage.gif
Mozilla provides documentation, but it's guesswork as to what they really do.
https://kb.mozillazine.org/Browser.startup.homepage_override.mstone >>
https://kb.mozillazine.org/Startup.homepage_override_url
Paul
Here's the inside of the 780:
https://postimg.cc/3W1pcT5L
I disconnected the optical drive
so the second connection down
the cable would have enough length
to reach my molex cable. I then
connected my molex cable to it
and we had success.
I'll order the cables on the 24th and the
1TB Patriot to copy/paste My Documents
from the 8500 to the 780.
I already set the Apps and FF as my
default browser.
I remember reading somewhere that
Win 10 doesn't have a homepage
like Win 7. They did away with it.
I read your instructions for about:blank,
and the Start-up homepage overide. whew!@!!
Hmmmmm seems allot like hacking ,..
and I never liked going into about:config
that's too dangerous. It seems that they did
do away with the homepage/icon on Win 10
because I didn't have to do all this on Win 7.
I think I'll leave it as is. I don't want to mess
things up just to get about blank and I didn't
realize it was going to be this much work.
We have enough on our plate as it is.
I guess I'll just have to get use to not having
it on Win 10.
Once I move My Documents and connect the
PCI card with 3.0 ports with molex cables. We
should be done and can run a mrimg on the 780
Win 10.
What do you think?
Robert
On 1/16/2024 12:15 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/15/2024 11:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/15/2024 5:16 PM, Robert in CA wrote:I need another source for the Y cable beside Amazon.
Here's TreeViwer:
https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S
Robert
Yup. Looks good.
Paul
Remember my account there has a snafu that they can't
resolve so I don't deal with them anymore.
I know what you mean about the lack of merchandize;
when I went looking for DVD+RDL's I went to 3 stores
and all of them had very little on the shelves and no
DVD-RDL's and ended up having to buy them eBay.
I'll leave the yellow triangles as is,...
How do I make FF my homepage in Win10? and then
make about:blank my homepage?.
Things still to do...
1. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
2. buy molex cables for PCI 3.0 ports and attach to optical cable
3. created mrimg on 780 Win 10 when your satisfied
were done.
4. do the 8500 Win 10
Robert
You could get three or four of these. They're Molex Y but only 8".
Four would give a bit of slack. Per requirements, each USB port has
a 100uF electrolytic for VBus, and that's an anti-sag thing for
VBUS during inrush. Things like USB keys, are allowed 10uF of
capacitance for filtering, on their end. Intel, in its whitepaper
for designers, states that 100uF on the host end, helps provide
charge current to fill up a 10uF load on the peripheral. The
capacitors also help with things like your extension cable project.
Y-cable 8 inch legs, chain up to four to reach card and have slack $2.99 each
https://www.microcenter.com/product/322061/evercool-4-pin-molex-power-y-cable-8
These are too expensive for the length of wire provided. There's
more wire and materials in the previous item, so this is just gouging.
https://www.microcenter.com/product/618362/micro-connectors-4-pin-lp4-male-to-4-pin-lp4-female-power-extension-cable-10-in
*******
This is where you set the default browser.
Settings : Apps : Default Apps
*******
Setting the homepage is harder.
I didn't do a very good job on this one, it's not really coherent :-)
The purpose of adding the new preference, is to try to avoid the
homepage being overridden the next time the browser is updated
(which is quite often). Just because you add a preference, does not
mean the browser code uses the preference. It is a form of wishful
thinking.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/RF4VzzPp/firefox-fix-newpage.gif
Mozilla provides documentation, but it's guesswork as to what they really do.
https://kb.mozillazine.org/Browser.startup.homepage_override.mstone >>>
https://kb.mozillazine.org/Startup.homepage_override_url
Paul
Here's the inside of the 780:
https://postimg.cc/3W1pcT5L
I disconnected the optical drive
so the second connection down
the cable would have enough length
to reach my molex cable. I then
connected my molex cable to it
and we had success.
I'll order the cables on the 24th and the
1TB Patriot to copy/paste My Documents
from the 8500 to the 780.
I already set the Apps and FF as my
default browser.
I remember reading somewhere that
Win 10 doesn't have a homepage
like Win 7. They did away with it.
I read your instructions for about:blank,
and the Start-up homepage overide. whew!@!!
Hmmmmm seems allot like hacking ,..
and I never liked going into about:config
that's too dangerous. It seems that they did
do away with the homepage/icon on Win 10
because I didn't have to do all this on Win 7.
I think I'll leave it as is. I don't want to mess
things up just to get about blank and I didn't
realize it was going to be this much work.
We have enough on our plate as it is.
I guess I'll just have to get use to not having
it on Win 10.
Once I move My Documents and connect the
PCI card with 3.0 ports with molex cables. We
should be done and can run a mrimg on the 780
Win 10.
What do you think?
Robert
That sounds like a reasonable plan.
Paul
So for now we can take a break and I'll order the molex
cables from your links and the 1TB Patriot stick on the
24th and will let you know when I get them and we can
resume.
Thanks,
Robert
On 1/16/2024 7:17 PM, RobnCA wrote:
So for now we can take a break and I'll order the molex
cables from your links and the 1TB Patriot stick on the
24th and will let you know when I get them and we can
resume.
Thanks,
Robert
OK.
Paul
On 1/16/2024 7:17 PM, RobnCA wrote:
So for now we can take a break and I'll order the molex
cables from your links and the 1TB Patriot stick on the
24th and will let you know when I get them and we can
resume.
Thanks,
Robert
OK.
Paul
How do I turn off the Windows backup pop-up
that keeps popping up?
https://postimg.cc/ppSMfMcz
Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 1/16/2024 7:17 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I went back and reviewed the links for the molex cables.
It seems it will work with just (2) Startech molex cables
so where do I splice in the Y-molex cable?
Thanks,
Robert
On 1/19/2024 11:32 PM, RobnCA wrote:
How do I turn off the Windows backup pop-up
that keeps popping up?
https://postimg.cc/ppSMfMcz
Thanks,
Robert
Settings : System : Notifications & Actions
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/sXDmY2Xk/w10-notifications.gif
Those will get switched back on, during a Repair install
or a Clean install.
Paul
So were just covering all the bases with the Y- connector;
I've thought about it and I think just (2-3) Startech cables
will work. Just connect them in tandem and then my molex
cable with the connection at the end connects to the optical
cable.
There doesn't seem to be any other molex connections. The
only other connection is the extra hd connection(black).
https://postimg.cc/QBFGsMdn
I followed your instructions and turned off the notifications
and restarted the computer to install updates and all looks
good.
I'll order the Patriots 1 TB sticks and molex cables on the 24th,.....
Thanks,
Robert
On 1/20/2024 7:34 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
So were just covering all the bases with the Y- connector;
I've thought about it and I think just (2-3) Startech cables
will work. Just connect them in tandem and then my molex
cable with the connection at the end connects to the optical
cable.
There doesn't seem to be any other molex connections. The
only other connection is the extra hd connection(black).
https://postimg.cc/QBFGsMdn
I followed your instructions and turned off the notifications
and restarted the computer to install updates and all looks
good.
I'll order the Patriots 1 TB sticks and molex cables on the 24th,.....
Thanks,
Robert
One of the chains has two Molex on it, and the end Molex goes
to your optical drive. The other Molex is open and could be
used for an extension cable.
The two connectors in the drive bay area, those are SATA aren't they ?
One thing I notice about your USB3 card, is it has three rather large
green capacitors on the board, as if someone has modded the board ???
It does not match the Newegg picture perfectly.
https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/20/2024 7:34 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
So were just covering all the bases with the Y- connector;
I've thought about it and I think just (2-3) Startech cables
will work. Just connect them in tandem and then my molex
cable with the connection at the end connects to the optical
cable.
There doesn't seem to be any other molex connections. The
only other connection is the extra hd connection(black).
https://postimg.cc/QBFGsMdn
I followed your instructions and turned off the notifications
and restarted the computer to install updates and all looks
good.
I'll order the Patriots 1 TB sticks and molex cables on the 24th,.....
Thanks,
Robert
One of the chains has two Molex on it, and the end Molex goes
to your optical drive. The other Molex is open and could be
used for an extension cable.
The two connectors in the drive bay area, those are SATA aren't they ?
One thing I notice about your USB3 card, is it has three rather large
green capacitors on the board, as if someone has modded the board ???
It does not match the Newegg picture perfectly.
https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019
Paul
OIC, you want me to use the Y connection at the PCI card
and then attach the molex cables on one side leaving the other
open. Yes, those are SATA connections and where I connect to
the optical cable.
Hmmm interesting about the card,, I'll take pics of it for you
when I do the cables.
Were getting close to finishing,. then create a mrimg and were
done.
Then we turn to the 8500,......
Thanks,
Robert
On 1/21/2024 7:10 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/20/2024 7:34 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
So were just covering all the bases with the Y- connector;
I've thought about it and I think just (2-3) Startech cables
will work. Just connect them in tandem and then my molex
cable with the connection at the end connects to the optical
cable.
There doesn't seem to be any other molex connections. The
only other connection is the extra hd connection(black).
https://postimg.cc/QBFGsMdn
I followed your instructions and turned off the notifications
and restarted the computer to install updates and all looks
good.
I'll order the Patriots 1 TB sticks and molex cables on the 24th,..... >>>>
Thanks,
Robert
One of the chains has two Molex on it, and the end Molex goes
to your optical drive. The other Molex is open and could be
used for an extension cable.
The two connectors in the drive bay area, those are SATA aren't they ?
One thing I notice about your USB3 card, is it has three rather large
green capacitors on the board, as if someone has modded the board ???
It does not match the Newegg picture perfectly.
https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019
Paul
OIC, you want me to use the Y connection at the PCI card
and then attach the molex cables on one side leaving the other
open. Yes, those are SATA connections and where I connect to
the optical cable.
Hmmm interesting about the card,, I'll take pics of it for you
when I do the cables.
Were getting close to finishing,. then create a mrimg and were
done.
Then we turn to the 8500,......
Thanks,
Robert
Where the optical drive power was connected before,
you can fit a Y-cable between it and the drive, and
then end up with an extra power connection to use
elsewhere.
The other Y-cables, it would make more sense if they were
straight extension cables, but the price determines what
you buy, rather than the practicality. In the picture,
I just wrapped ties around them to tidy them up a bit.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/J7vCcDNb/Y-cables-for-power.jpg
Paul
On 1/21/2024 11:13 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I can't connect the Y cable to the optical cable because
its a SATA connection. Instead, I was thinking of connecting
it to the PCI card end and then attach the Startech cables
to it and finally the molex cable that came with the kit that
has the SATA connector to connect to the optical cable and
that would still leave one extra connection.
I'm a little apprehensive about the 8500 Win 10 and what
we'll find. If it is even Win 10 or Win 7 Pro? There shouldn't
be another User Account with pin number that I'll have to
hack around. If there is then it means it came with the Win 10
upgrade.
Robert
There used to be a free upgrade. The offer closed a couple months ago.
Install Win10
__/ Win7 SP1 ---------------------------- Win10 (license registers itself
| \ Win 8.1 ------------------ with a Microsoft server)
|
|____ Qualifying OS
OS has license
You would not have to use the OS at that point. Once the disk drive
has booted once or twice,
slmgr /dlv
would tell you the OS was "licensed". This is just to show you
what the dialog looks like that presents the info when you ask.
Then, if you installed the OS on that same computer two years
later, it would report itself "licensed", without any extra ceremonies.
That is why you would have wanted to install it two years ago.
Just to "generate" a license for the day you actually wanted the OS.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bJxHZmtw/win11-slmgr-dlv-window.gif
Paul
I can't connect the Y cable to the optical cable because
its a SATA connection. Instead, I was thinking of connecting
it to the PCI card end and then attach the Startech cables
to it and finally the molex cable that came with the kit that
has the SATA connector to connect to the optical cable and
that would still leave one extra connection.
I'm a little apprehensive about the 8500 Win 10 and what
we'll find. If it is even Win 10 or Win 7 Pro? There shouldn't
be another User Account with pin number that I'll have to
hack around. If there is then it means it came with the Win 10
upgrade.
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 1/21/2024 11:13 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I can't connect the Y cable to the optical cable because
its a SATA connection. Instead, I was thinking of connecting
it to the PCI card end and then attach the Startech cables
to it and finally the molex cable that came with the kit that
has the SATA connector to connect to the optical cable and
that would still leave one extra connection.
I'm a little apprehensive about the 8500 Win 10 and what
we'll find. If it is even Win 10 or Win 7 Pro? There shouldn't
be another User Account with pin number that I'll have to
hack around. If there is then it means it came with the Win 10
upgrade.
Robert
There used to be a free upgrade. The offer closed a couple months ago.
Install Win10
__/ Win7 SP1 ---------------------------- Win10 (license registers itself >> | \ Win 8.1 ------------------ with a Microsoft server)
|
|____ Qualifying OS
OS has license
You would not have to use the OS at that point. Once the disk drive
has booted once or twice,
slmgr /dlv
would tell you the OS was "licensed". This is just to show you
what the dialog looks like that presents the info when you ask.
Then, if you installed the OS on that same computer two years
later, it would report itself "licensed", without any extra ceremonies.
That is why you would have wanted to install it two years ago.
Just to "generate" a license for the day you actually wanted the OS.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bJxHZmtw/win11-slmgr-dlv-window.gif
Paul
I believe we did the free upgrade some time ago when
they offered it but we won't know for sure until I
switch hd's.
If the 8500 had more than one bay for hd's I would
install the Win 10 hd so we could see what we have
and do your commands. Unfortunately, it has only
the one bay. So we have to wait until we get the 780
completed because that's going to be my only means
of communication once I switch hd's on the 8500 and
put in the Win 10 hd.
Robert
On 1/22/2024 1:01 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/21/2024 11:13 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I can't connect the Y cable to the optical cable because
its a SATA connection. Instead, I was thinking of connecting
it to the PCI card end and then attach the Startech cables
to it and finally the molex cable that came with the kit that
has the SATA connector to connect to the optical cable and
that would still leave one extra connection.
I'm a little apprehensive about the 8500 Win 10 and what
we'll find. If it is even Win 10 or Win 7 Pro? There shouldn't
be another User Account with pin number that I'll have to
hack around. If there is then it means it came with the Win 10
upgrade.
Robert
There used to be a free upgrade. The offer closed a couple months ago.
Install Win10
__/ Win7 SP1 ---------------------------- Win10 (license registers itself
| \ Win 8.1 ------------------ with a Microsoft server)
|
|____ Qualifying OS
OS has license
You would not have to use the OS at that point. Once the disk drive
has booted once or twice,
slmgr /dlv
would tell you the OS was "licensed". This is just to show you
what the dialog looks like that presents the info when you ask.
Then, if you installed the OS on that same computer two years
later, it would report itself "licensed", without any extra ceremonies.
That is why you would have wanted to install it two years ago.
Just to "generate" a license for the day you actually wanted the OS.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bJxHZmtw/win11-slmgr-dlv-window.gif
Paul
I believe we did the free upgrade some time ago when
they offered it but we won't know for sure until I
switch hd's.
If the 8500 had more than one bay for hd's I would
install the Win 10 hd so we could see what we have
and do your commands. Unfortunately, it has only
the one bay. So we have to wait until we get the 780
completed because that's going to be my only means
of communication once I switch hd's on the 8500 and
put in the Win 10 hd.
Robert
The Owners Manual for the 8500, shows there is a "cage" that
bolts next to the primary drive, and that is where a secondary
drive might go.
But you can see this better than I can.
The optical drive bays (two of them), could hold hard drives.
The primary hard drive apparently bolts to a structure in the chassis.
And there is a cage very close to that, the cage bolts to the chassis,
and has fingers that slide into the chassis metal to secure it
while you are fitting the bolts.
It is not very convenient, that sort of thing. Bolting and unbolting
them takes time.
It's possible you may be able to fit a second drive... without
having to resort to a "rail-kit" to do it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xS9HaguwtsE
Paul
On 1/22/2024 1:01 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/21/2024 11:13 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I can't connect the Y cable to the optical cable because
its a SATA connection. Instead, I was thinking of connecting
it to the PCI card end and then attach the Startech cables
to it and finally the molex cable that came with the kit that
has the SATA connector to connect to the optical cable and
that would still leave one extra connection.
I'm a little apprehensive about the 8500 Win 10 and what
we'll find. If it is even Win 10 or Win 7 Pro? There shouldn't
be another User Account with pin number that I'll have to
hack around. If there is then it means it came with the Win 10
upgrade.
Robert
There used to be a free upgrade. The offer closed a couple months ago.
Install Win10
__/ Win7 SP1 ---------------------------- Win10 (license registers itself
| \ Win 8.1 ------------------ with a Microsoft server)
|
|____ Qualifying OS
OS has license
You would not have to use the OS at that point. Once the disk drive
has booted once or twice,
slmgr /dlv
would tell you the OS was "licensed". This is just to show you
what the dialog looks like that presents the info when you ask.
Then, if you installed the OS on that same computer two years
later, it would report itself "licensed", without any extra ceremonies.
That is why you would have wanted to install it two years ago.
Just to "generate" a license for the day you actually wanted the OS.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bJxHZmtw/win11-slmgr-dlv-window.gif
Paul
I believe we did the free upgrade some time ago when
they offered it but we won't know for sure until I
switch hd's.
If the 8500 had more than one bay for hd's I would
install the Win 10 hd so we could see what we have
and do your commands. Unfortunately, it has only
the one bay. So we have to wait until we get the 780
completed because that's going to be my only means
of communication once I switch hd's on the 8500 and
put in the Win 10 hd.
Robert
The Owners Manual for the 8500, shows there is a "cage" that
bolts next to the primary drive, and that is where a secondary
drive might go.
But you can see this better than I can.
The optical drive bays (two of them), could hold hard drives.
The primary hard drive apparently bolts to a structure in the chassis.
And there is a cage very close to that, the cage bolts to the chassis,
and has fingers that slide into the chassis metal to secure it
while you are fitting the bolts.
It is not very convenient, that sort of thing. Bolting and unbolting
them takes time.
It's possible you may be able to fit a second drive... without
having to resort to a "rail-kit" to do it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xS9HaguwtsE
Paul
On 1/22/2024 1:01 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/21/2024 11:13 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I can't connect the Y cable to the optical cable because
its a SATA connection. Instead, I was thinking of connecting
it to the PCI card end and then attach the Startech cables
to it and finally the molex cable that came with the kit that
has the SATA connector to connect to the optical cable and
that would still leave one extra connection.
I'm a little apprehensive about the 8500 Win 10 and what
we'll find. If it is even Win 10 or Win 7 Pro? There shouldn't
be another User Account with pin number that I'll have to
hack around. If there is then it means it came with the Win 10
upgrade.
Robert
There used to be a free upgrade. The offer closed a couple months ago.
Install Win10
__/ Win7 SP1 ---------------------------- Win10 (license registers itself
| \ Win 8.1 ------------------ with a Microsoft server)
|
|____ Qualifying OS
OS has license
You would not have to use the OS at that point. Once the disk drive
has booted once or twice,
slmgr /dlv
would tell you the OS was "licensed". This is just to show you
what the dialog looks like that presents the info when you ask.
Then, if you installed the OS on that same computer two years
later, it would report itself "licensed", without any extra ceremonies.
That is why you would have wanted to install it two years ago.
Just to "generate" a license for the day you actually wanted the OS.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bJxHZmtw/win11-slmgr-dlv-window.gif
Paul
I believe we did the free upgrade some time ago when
they offered it but we won't know for sure until I
switch hd's.
If the 8500 had more than one bay for hd's I would
install the Win 10 hd so we could see what we have
and do your commands. Unfortunately, it has only
the one bay. So we have to wait until we get the 780
completed because that's going to be my only means
of communication once I switch hd's on the 8500 and
put in the Win 10 hd.
Robert
The Owners Manual for the 8500, shows there is a "cage" that
bolts next to the primary drive, and that is where a secondary
drive might go.
But you can see this better than I can.
The optical drive bays (two of them), could hold hard drives.
The primary hard drive apparently bolts to a structure in the chassis.
And there is a cage very close to that, the cage bolts to the chassis,
and has fingers that slide into the chassis metal to secure it
while you are fitting the bolts.
It is not very convenient, that sort of thing. Bolting and unbolting
them takes time.
It's possible you may be able to fit a second drive... without
having to resort to a "rail-kit" to do it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xS9HaguwtsE
Paul
I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e
Robert
I switched the cables again,, here's the 8500 Win 10
https://postimg.cc/Mcb65HXR
https://postimg.cc/xkYYXQgd
https://postimg.cc/Mffgs3t4
I bought the 1TB Patriot sticks and I tried to buy the Startech
molex cables but there doesn't seem to be a way to pay for them?
I also tried to buy the Y cable but I had to have a cell phone number.
Could you please send me links so I can order and pay? Preferably
through PayPal.
Thanks,
Robert
On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e
Robert
That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
power connector to the card connector.
Paul
On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e
Robert
That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
power connector to the card connector.
Paul
On 1/25/2024 2:11 PM, RobnCA wrote:8500.
Paul wrote:
On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e
Robert
That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
power connector to the card connector.
Paul
1. I was reading through the instructions for a clean
install of Windows 10. I assume I have all the
requirements.
2. Create a bootable Win10 USB? I believe we did that and put the ISO on a >> ScanDisk with the USB Adaptor.
3. disconnect all other hd's
I have my 8500 product key is that the same thing?
Your instructions are easier to follow.
... on step 25 you start with a bogus phone number but it ends with having to enter an email address. OIC that's where I create a Admin Account. I think I'm getting a handle on it but as I say we need to finish the 780 first then we can turn to the
I think when the cables arrive I'm going to remove the PCI card and do the cabling
outside of the computer because its pretty restricted space inside the computer and
difficult to remove the cable.
Robert
Where it is marked in Yellow here, you want "Offline Account" and
no email addresses to be entered.
https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/220237d1547055736-clean-install-windows-10-a-local-1.png
Using the Yellow thing, you enter a local account of "Rob", your home directory
will be Rob. In other words, that Yellow thing is the path to work
as if it was Windows 7 when defining an account.
If you use the email address method, it fouls up your home directory name.
I generally turn off all the rest of the "features" when I go through
those screens.
The first account you create there, is an Administrator account, so pick a login name you like for Administrator operation. Again, you can create a non-Administrator account later, after all those "stupid questions" are completed.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e
Robert
That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
power connector to the card connector.
Paul
1. I was reading through the instructions for a clean8500.
install of Windows 10. I assume I have all the
requirements.
2. Create a bootable Win10 USB? I believe we did that and put the ISO on a ScanDisk with the USB Adaptor.
3. disconnect all other hd's
I have my 8500 product key is that the same thing?
Your instructions are easier to follow.
... on step 25 you start with a bogus phone number but it ends with having to enter an email address. OIC that's where I create a Admin Account. I think I'm getting a handle on it but as I say we need to finish the 780 first then we can turn to the
I think when the cables arrive I'm going to remove the PCI card and do the cabling
outside of the computer because its pretty restricted space inside the computer and
difficult to remove the cable.
Robert
On 1/25/2024 2:11 PM, RobnCA wrote:8500.
Paul wrote:
On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e
Robert
That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
power connector to the card connector.
Paul
1. I was reading through the instructions for a clean
install of Windows 10. I assume I have all the
requirements.
2. Create a bootable Win10 USB? I believe we did that and put the ISO on a >> ScanDisk with the USB Adaptor.
3. disconnect all other hd's
I have my 8500 product key is that the same thing?
Your instructions are easier to follow.
... on step 25 you start with a bogus phone number but it ends with having to enter an email address. OIC that's where I create a Admin Account. I think I'm getting a handle on it but as I say we need to finish the 780 first then we can turn to the
I think when the cables arrive I'm going to remove the PCI card and do the cabling
outside of the computer because its pretty restricted space inside the computer and
difficult to remove the cable.
Robert
Where it is marked in Yellow here, you want "Offline Account" and
no email addresses to be entered.
https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/220237d1547055736-clean-install-windows-10-a-local-1.png
Using the Yellow thing, you enter a local account of "Rob", your home directory
will be Rob. In other words, that Yellow thing is the path to work
as if it was Windows 7 when defining an account.
If you use the email address method, it fouls up your home directory name.
I generally turn off all the rest of the "features" when I go through
those screens.
The first account you create there, is an Administrator account, so pick a login name you like for Administrator operation. Again, you can create a non-Administrator account later, after all those "stupid questions" are completed.
Paul
On 1/25/2024 2:11 PM, RobnCA wrote:8500.
Paul wrote:
On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e
Robert
That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
power connector to the card connector.
Paul
1. I was reading through the instructions for a clean
install of Windows 10. I assume I have all the
requirements.
2. Create a bootable Win10 USB? I believe we did that and put the ISO on a >> ScanDisk with the USB Adaptor.
3. disconnect all other hd's
I have my 8500 product key is that the same thing?
Your instructions are easier to follow.
... on step 25 you start with a bogus phone number but it ends with having to enter an email address. OIC that's where I create a Admin Account. I think I'm getting a handle on it but as I say we need to finish the 780 first then we can turn to the
I think when the cables arrive I'm going to remove the PCI card and do the cabling
outside of the computer because its pretty restricted space inside the computer and
difficult to remove the cable.
Robert
Where it is marked in Yellow here, you want "Offline Account" and
no email addresses to be entered.
https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/220237d1547055736-clean-install-windows-10-a-local-1.png
Using the Yellow thing, you enter a local account of "Rob", your home directory
will be Rob. In other words, that Yellow thing is the path to work
as if it was Windows 7 when defining an account.
If you use the email address method, it fouls up your home directory name.
I generally turn off all the rest of the "features" when I go through
those screens.
The first account you create there, is an Administrator account, so pick a login name you like for Administrator operation. Again, you can create a non-Administrator account later, after all those "stupid questions" are completed.
Paul
Understood,..... but in your instructions... 25 the last instruction does want me
to enter an email account which you said to avoid but that's where I create the Admin Account correct?
I'll pick a similar name as my other Admin Accounts.
Robert
Paul wrote:8500.
On 1/25/2024 2:11 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e
Robert
That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
power connector to the card connector.
Paul
1. I was reading through the instructions for a clean
install of Windows 10. I assume I have all the
requirements.
2. Create a bootable Win10 USB? I believe we did that and put the ISO on a >>> ScanDisk with the USB Adaptor.
3. disconnect all other hd's
I have my 8500 product key is that the same thing?
Your instructions are easier to follow.
... on step 25 you start with a bogus phone number but it ends with having to enter an email address. OIC that's where I create a Admin Account. I think I'm getting a handle on it but as I say we need to finish the 780 first then we can turn to the
I think when the cables arrive I'm going to remove the PCI card and do the cabling
outside of the computer because its pretty restricted space inside the computer and
difficult to remove the cable.
Robert
Where it is marked in Yellow here, you want "Offline Account" and
no email addresses to be entered.
https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/220237d1547055736-clean-install-windows-10-a-local-1.png
Using the Yellow thing, you enter a local account of "Rob", your home directory
will be Rob. In other words, that Yellow thing is the path to work
as if it was Windows 7 when defining an account.
If you use the email address method, it fouls up your home directory name. >>
I generally turn off all the rest of the "features" when I go through
those screens.
The first account you create there, is an Administrator account, so pick a >> login name you like for Administrator operation. Again, you can create a
non-Administrator account later, after all those "stupid questions" are completed.
Paul
Let's just skip over making an mrimg for the 8500 Win10
since I can't access it anyway. There's nothing on it so
we can go straight to erasing it and the 22H2.
Robert
On 1/26/2024 6:57 AM, RobnCA wrote:8500.
Paul wrote:
On 1/25/2024 2:11 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e
Robert
That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
power connector to the card connector.
Paul
1. I was reading through the instructions for a clean
install of Windows 10. I assume I have all the
requirements.
2. Create a bootable Win10 USB? I believe we did that and put the ISO on a >>>> ScanDisk with the USB Adaptor.
3. disconnect all other hd's
I have my 8500 product key is that the same thing?
Your instructions are easier to follow.
... on step 25 you start with a bogus phone number but it ends with having to enter an email address. OIC that's where I create a Admin Account. I think I'm getting a handle on it but as I say we need to finish the 780 first then we can turn to the
I think when the cables arrive I'm going to remove the PCI card and do the cabling
outside of the computer because its pretty restricted space inside the computer and
difficult to remove the cable.
Robert
Where it is marked in Yellow here, you want "Offline Account" and
no email addresses to be entered.
https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/220237d1547055736-clean-install-windows-10-a-local-1.png
Using the Yellow thing, you enter a local account of "Rob", your home directory
will be Rob. In other words, that Yellow thing is the path to work
as if it was Windows 7 when defining an account.
If you use the email address method, it fouls up your home directory name. >>>
I generally turn off all the rest of the "features" when I go through
those screens.
The first account you create there, is an Administrator account, so pick a >>> login name you like for Administrator operation. Again, you can create a >>> non-Administrator account later, after all those "stupid questions" are completed.
Paul
Let's just skip over making an mrimg for the 8500 Win10
since I can't access it anyway. There's nothing on it so
we can go straight to erasing it and the 22H2.
Robert
You can randomly access the content. Macrium mounter has a
"remove restrictions" capability on an MRIMG, so any folder you
want can be opened for inspection.
You might also end up putting the MRIMG back at a later date.
Depending on how the clean install goes.
Paul
Understood,.... I will be clicking the lower left vs
giving them my email address that avoids me using
MSA.
OK, we'll do a mrimg on the 8500 and will re-read your
instructions so I have better idea of procedures.
Robert
On 1/26/2024 6:38 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Understood,.... I will be clicking the lower left vs
giving them my email address that avoids me using
MSA.
OK, we'll do a mrimg on the 8500 and will re-read your
instructions so I have better idea of procedures.
Robert
Unlike some of your other computing projects, doing
a clean install is a light hearted operation. If it
does not work the first time, you can always do it
again if you want. Just having the one blank drive
connected, is all you need for the install.
I didn't get it right on the first try, and with
practice, you'll know what the questions are, and
get used to the deceptive practice in the interface.
For example, I never tried Cortana, because I don't
leave a microphone connected to a computer. It's only
for Zoom conferences with a doctor. The doctor at the
hospital is fond of sitting in front of a large
Mac computer and discussing medicine. But on at least
one occasion, the conferencing software would not work
and we had to use... a telephone. Yikes. A telephone.
There's nothing wrong with using an MSA. What we're doing
is changing the order. Doing a local account first,
so there will be C:\users\Rob kind of thing, and the
home directory will have the proper name. An MSA can be
added later on, for usage with the Microsoft Store.
Or for usage of OneDrive.
Paul
On 1/26/2024 6:38 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Understood,.... I will be clicking the lower left vs
giving them my email address that avoids me using
MSA.
OK, we'll do a mrimg on the 8500 and will re-read your
instructions so I have better idea of procedures.
Robert
Unlike some of your other computing projects, doing
a clean install is a light hearted operation. If it
does not work the first time, you can always do it
again if you want. Just having the one blank drive
connected, is all you need for the install.
I didn't get it right on the first try, and with
practice, you'll know what the questions are, and
get used to the deceptive practice in the interface.
For example, I never tried Cortana, because I don't
leave a microphone connected to a computer. It's only
for Zoom conferences with a doctor. The doctor at the
hospital is fond of sitting in front of a large
Mac computer and discussing medicine. But on at least
one occasion, the conferencing software would not work
and we had to use... a telephone. Yikes. A telephone.
There's nothing wrong with using an MSA. What we're doing
is changing the order. Doing a local account first,
so there will be C:\users\Rob kind of thing, and the
home directory will have the proper name. An MSA can be
added later on, for usage with the Microsoft Store.
Or for usage of OneDrive.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/26/2024 6:38 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Understood,.... I will be clicking the lower left vs
giving them my email address that avoids me using
MSA.
OK, we'll do a mrimg on the 8500 and will re-read your
instructions so I have better idea of procedures.
Robert
Unlike some of your other computing projects, doing
a clean install is a light hearted operation. If it
does not work the first time, you can always do it
again if you want. Just having the one blank drive
connected, is all you need for the install.
I didn't get it right on the first try, and with
practice, you'll know what the questions are, and
get used to the deceptive practice in the interface.
For example, I never tried Cortana, because I don't
leave a microphone connected to a computer. It's only
for Zoom conferences with a doctor. The doctor at the
hospital is fond of sitting in front of a large
Mac computer and discussing medicine. But on at least
one occasion, the conferencing software would not work
and we had to use... a telephone. Yikes. A telephone.
There's nothing wrong with using an MSA. What we're doing
is changing the order. Doing a local account first,
so there will be C:\users\Rob kind of thing, and the
home directory will have the proper name. An MSA can be
added later on, for usage with the Microsoft Store.
Or for usage of OneDrive.
Paul
I re-read the instructions for installing Win10 on the 8500
It says before installing to disable secure boot and fast boot?
Step 1. create bootable ISO - done
Step 3 - I'm not understanding what I do here?
Step 4 - disconnect Internet before install
Step 5 - boot from flash drive? I thought we were using 22H2 ?
Step 9 - enter Win10 product key- 8500 Product Key ?
Step 14. Legacy BIOS
Step 16 install Win10
Step 21 check for Internet (when did we re-connect it after Step 4?)
Step 23> go to Step25
Step 25 bogus telephone number, click offline account lower left
a. privacy settings? I generally turn them all off except inking and typing.
Step 29 set time/date
Step 30 install FF, Seamonkey,Word, Excel, Dell Imagining, Set FF
as default and turn off notifications, import bookmarks, copy/past My Documents. A/V suite, macrium....
Step 31 create mrimg
On 1/27/2024 2:38 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/26/2024 6:38 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Understood,.... I will be clicking the lower left vs
giving them my email address that avoids me using
MSA.
OK, we'll do a mrimg on the 8500 and will re-read your
instructions so I have better idea of procedures.
Robert
Unlike some of your other computing projects, doing
a clean install is a light hearted operation. If it
does not work the first time, you can always do it
again if you want. Just having the one blank drive
connected, is all you need for the install.
I didn't get it right on the first try, and with
practice, you'll know what the questions are, and
get used to the deceptive practice in the interface.
For example, I never tried Cortana, because I don't
leave a microphone connected to a computer. It's only
for Zoom conferences with a doctor. The doctor at the
hospital is fond of sitting in front of a large
Mac computer and discussing medicine. But on at least
one occasion, the conferencing software would not work
and we had to use... a telephone. Yikes. A telephone.
There's nothing wrong with using an MSA. What we're doing
is changing the order. Doing a local account first,
so there will be C:\users\Rob kind of thing, and the
home directory will have the proper name. An MSA can be
added later on, for usage with the Microsoft Store.
Or for usage of OneDrive.
Paul
I re-read the instructions for installing Win10 on the 8500
It says before installing to disable secure boot and fast boot?
Step 1. create bootable ISO - done
Step 3 - I'm not understanding what I do here?
Step 4 - disconnect Internet before install
Step 5 - boot from flash drive? I thought we were using 22H2 ?
Step 9 - enter Win10 product key- 8500 Product Key ?
Step 14. Legacy BIOS
Step 16 install Win10
Step 21 check for Internet (when did we re-connect it after Step 4?)
Step 23> go to Step25
Step 25 bogus telephone number, click offline account lower left
a. privacy settings? I generally turn them all off except inking and typing. >>
Step 29 set time/date
Step 30 install FF, Seamonkey,Word, Excel, Dell Imagining, Set FF
as default and turn off notifications, import bookmarks, copy/past My
Documents. A/V suite, macrium....
Step 31 create mrimg
http://www.macbreaker.com/2013/06/xps-8500-best-prebuilt-hackintosh.html
"The motherboard of the XPS 8500 uses UEFI.
... enter the BIOS of your XPS 8500 and turn off "UEFI mode" and "Secure boot"
"
I would just leave the machine in the mode it is currently in.
That's so the Windows 7 disk drive continues to boot. The popup boot
only seems to support one mode at a time, making it... less than useful.
https://blog.plip.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/23/2020/08/dell.boot_.ptompt.jpg
Even without logging into the Win10 current OS, you can use
a Macrium Rescue CD, to see how the disk is set up right now.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif
You DONT have to enter a license key. Where it says license key,
you use "Skip" if you want. Remember, since you acquired the "Free Upgrade", your license key is stored on the Microsoft Server, and that key will
be populated from the server at the appropriate time later.
I can't really design a film strip for this, because I'm not
convinced I could cover every eventuality.
Paul
Paul wrote:
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif
I ran the Macrium Rescue CD with the 8500 Win10 hd:
https://postimg.cc/Q9GyYcSR
https://postimg.cc/jnRktKpc
https://postimg.cc/9zBn1R9n
https://postimg.cc/cKYD3rZT
https://postimg.cc/qhxjmSN3
Robert
On 1/28/2024 3:35 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif
I ran the Macrium Rescue CD with the 8500 Win10 hd:
https://postimg.cc/Q9GyYcSR
https://postimg.cc/jnRktKpc
https://postimg.cc/9zBn1R9n
https://postimg.cc/cKYD3rZT
https://postimg.cc/qhxjmSN3
Robert
Using the main window and selecting "Backup" mode on the upper left,
should give you a view of the partitions.
[Picture] Click to magnify and the image may be clearer (Backup button down below File menu)
https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif
Your drive letters look kinda like a backup hard drive. It seems to have a 14GB Recovery
partition (which is likely intended to reinstall Windows 7 or something).
And the C: partition seems to take up the rest of the drive.
From Macrium Rescue CD, using the File Explorer icon on the lower left,
you should be able to look inside C: and see what is taking up the space there.
It might be some backup image or something.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/28/2024 3:35 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif
I ran the Macrium Rescue CD with the 8500 Win10 hd:
https://postimg.cc/Q9GyYcSR
https://postimg.cc/jnRktKpc
https://postimg.cc/9zBn1R9n
https://postimg.cc/cKYD3rZT
https://postimg.cc/qhxjmSN3
Robert
Using the main window and selecting "Backup" mode on the upper left,
should give you a view of the partitions.
[Picture] Click to magnify and the image may be clearer (Backup button down below File menu)
https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif >>
Your drive letters look kinda like a backup hard drive. It seems to have a 14GB Recovery
partition (which is likely intended to reinstall Windows 7 or something).
And the C: partition seems to take up the rest of the drive.
From Macrium Rescue CD, using the File Explorer icon on the lower left,
you should be able to look inside C: and see what is taking up the space there.
It might be some backup image or something.
Paul
Is this better?
https://postimg.cc/QVxqgKYM
Robert
On 1/29/2024 12:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/28/2024 3:35 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif
I ran the Macrium Rescue CD with the 8500 Win10 hd:
https://postimg.cc/Q9GyYcSR
https://postimg.cc/jnRktKpc
https://postimg.cc/9zBn1R9n
https://postimg.cc/cKYD3rZT
https://postimg.cc/qhxjmSN3
Robert
Using the main window and selecting "Backup" mode on the upper left,
should give you a view of the partitions.
[Picture] Click to magnify and the image may be clearer (Backup button down below File menu)
https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif >>>
Your drive letters look kinda like a backup hard drive. It seems to have a 14GB Recovery
partition (which is likely intended to reinstall Windows 7 or something). >>> And the C: partition seems to take up the rest of the drive.
From Macrium Rescue CD, using the File Explorer icon on the lower left, >>> you should be able to look inside C: and see what is taking up the space there.
It might be some backup image or something.
Paul
Is this better?
https://postimg.cc/QVxqgKYM
Robert
That's excellent. Thanks.
Your disk is a puzzle. It is similar to #1 here. An XPS 8700 has done the same thing.
https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/651926/understanding-windows-10-partition-structures/
"#1 has a 1 TB disk with 3 partitions:
1 Dell Utility FAT (16 bit) 116 KB used out of 39.2 MB
2 Recovery NTFS 11.26 GB used out of 24.22 GB
3 OS (C:) NTFS 308.02 GB used out of 907.25 GB
Am I to understand from this that #1 has an MBR disk system, while the other two have GPT disks...
"
I would agree it's MBR. The reason I searched for a reference, is the Recovery is marked
in your picture as "NTFS Active", and that terminology should only be used on MBR disks.
And that's good, because it's easier to go from an MBR disk to GPT, than from GPT to MBR.
That means there is slightly less that can go wrong.
*******
Before you go erasing anything, I'd want to check C: for personal files.
It's about 1/4 full and it might have some backup file stored on there somewhere.
And you know your folder habits, in terms of where you store backups.
So you're best suited to hunt for that detail.
Paul
On 1/29/2024 12:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/28/2024 3:35 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif
I ran the Macrium Rescue CD with the 8500 Win10 hd:
https://postimg.cc/Q9GyYcSR
https://postimg.cc/jnRktKpc
https://postimg.cc/9zBn1R9n
https://postimg.cc/cKYD3rZT
https://postimg.cc/qhxjmSN3
Robert
Using the main window and selecting "Backup" mode on the upper left,
should give you a view of the partitions.
[Picture] Click to magnify and the image may be clearer (Backup button down below File menu)
https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif >>>
Your drive letters look kinda like a backup hard drive. It seems to have a 14GB Recovery
partition (which is likely intended to reinstall Windows 7 or something). >>> And the C: partition seems to take up the rest of the drive.
From Macrium Rescue CD, using the File Explorer icon on the lower left, >>> you should be able to look inside C: and see what is taking up the space there.
It might be some backup image or something.
Paul
Is this better?
https://postimg.cc/QVxqgKYM
Robert
That's excellent. Thanks.
Your disk is a puzzle. It is similar to #1 here. An XPS 8700 has done the same thing.
https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/651926/understanding-windows-10-partition-structures/
"#1 has a 1 TB disk with 3 partitions:
1 Dell Utility FAT (16 bit) 116 KB used out of 39.2 MB
2 Recovery NTFS 11.26 GB used out of 24.22 GB
3 OS (C:) NTFS 308.02 GB used out of 907.25 GB
Am I to understand from this that #1 has an MBR disk system, while the other two have GPT disks...
"
I would agree it's MBR. The reason I searched for a reference, is the Recovery is marked
in your picture as "NTFS Active", and that terminology should only be used on MBR disks.
And that's good, because it's easier to go from an MBR disk to GPT, than from GPT to MBR.
That means there is slightly less that can go wrong.
*******
Before you go erasing anything, I'd want to check C: for personal files.
It's about 1/4 full and it might have some backup file stored on there somewhere.
And you know your folder habits, in terms of where you store backups.
So you're best suited to hunt for that detail.
Paul
On 1/29/2024 12:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/28/2024 3:35 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif
I ran the Macrium Rescue CD with the 8500 Win10 hd:
https://postimg.cc/Q9GyYcSR
https://postimg.cc/jnRktKpc
https://postimg.cc/9zBn1R9n
https://postimg.cc/cKYD3rZT
https://postimg.cc/qhxjmSN3
Robert
Using the main window and selecting "Backup" mode on the upper left,
should give you a view of the partitions.
[Picture] Click to magnify and the image may be clearer (Backup button down below File menu)
https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif >>>
Your drive letters look kinda like a backup hard drive. It seems to have a 14GB Recovery
partition (which is likely intended to reinstall Windows 7 or something). >>> And the C: partition seems to take up the rest of the drive.
From Macrium Rescue CD, using the File Explorer icon on the lower left, >>> you should be able to look inside C: and see what is taking up the space there.
It might be some backup image or something.
Paul
Is this better?
https://postimg.cc/QVxqgKYM
Robert
That's excellent. Thanks.
Your disk is a puzzle. It is similar to #1 here. An XPS 8700 has done the same thing.
https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/651926/understanding-windows-10-partition-structures/
"#1 has a 1 TB disk with 3 partitions:
1 Dell Utility FAT (16 bit) 116 KB used out of 39.2 MB
2 Recovery NTFS 11.26 GB used out of 24.22 GB
3 OS (C:) NTFS 308.02 GB used out of 907.25 GB
Am I to understand from this that #1 has an MBR disk system, while the other two have GPT disks...
"
I would agree it's MBR. The reason I searched for a reference, is the Recovery is marked
in your picture as "NTFS Active", and that terminology should only be used on MBR disks.
And that's good, because it's easier to go from an MBR disk to GPT, than from GPT to MBR.
That means there is slightly less that can go wrong.
*******
Before you go erasing anything, I'd want to check C: for personal files.
It's about 1/4 full and it might have some backup file stored on there somewhere.
And you know your folder habits, in terms of where you store backups.
So you're best suited to hunt for that detail.
Paul
On 1/29/2024 12:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/28/2024 3:35 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif
I ran the Macrium Rescue CD with the 8500 Win10 hd:
https://postimg.cc/Q9GyYcSR
https://postimg.cc/jnRktKpc
https://postimg.cc/9zBn1R9n
https://postimg.cc/cKYD3rZT
https://postimg.cc/qhxjmSN3
Robert
Using the main window and selecting "Backup" mode on the upper left,
should give you a view of the partitions.
[Picture] Click to magnify and the image may be clearer (Backup button down below File menu)
https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif >>>
Your drive letters look kinda like a backup hard drive. It seems to have a 14GB Recovery
partition (which is likely intended to reinstall Windows 7 or something). >>> And the C: partition seems to take up the rest of the drive.
From Macrium Rescue CD, using the File Explorer icon on the lower left, >>> you should be able to look inside C: and see what is taking up the space there.
It might be some backup image or something.
Paul
Is this better?
https://postimg.cc/QVxqgKYM
Robert
That's excellent. Thanks.
Your disk is a puzzle. It is similar to #1 here. An XPS 8700 has done the same thing.
https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/651926/understanding-windows-10-partition-structures/
"#1 has a 1 TB disk with 3 partitions:
1 Dell Utility FAT (16 bit) 116 KB used out of 39.2 MB
2 Recovery NTFS 11.26 GB used out of 24.22 GB
3 OS (C:) NTFS 308.02 GB used out of 907.25 GB
Am I to understand from this that #1 has an MBR disk system, while the other two have GPT disks...
"
I would agree it's MBR. The reason I searched for a reference, is the Recovery is marked
in your picture as "NTFS Active", and that terminology should only be used on MBR disks.
And that's good, because it's easier to go from an MBR disk to GPT, than from GPT to MBR.
That means there is slightly less that can go wrong.
*******
Before you go erasing anything, I'd want to check C: for personal files.
It's about 1/4 full and it might have some backup file stored on there somewhere.
And you know your folder habits, in terms of where you store backups.
So you're best suited to hunt for that detail.
Paul
One thing, I noticed when I attached the SATA cable that
one of the black wires came loose on the other connection
end. Probably from all the connecting and disconnecting to
the PCI card. I was able to push the pin back in but do you
think I should epoxy it in? I'm afraid when I try to connect
the Startech cable that that pin will move backwards and not
connect.
Robert
I connected the Y cable to the SATA cable and tested it
so we have the 3.0 port working. However, when I try to
eject the Patriot safely it doesn't give me a message its OK
to remove and the USB icon disappears.
https://postimg.cc/MvQytf16
Robert
On 1/29/2024 8:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I connected the Y cable to the SATA cable and tested it
so we have the 3.0 port working. However, when I try to
eject the Patriot safely it doesn't give me a message its OK
to remove and the USB icon disappears.
https://postimg.cc/MvQytf16
Robert
It's possible the Patriot is formatted ExFAT or it could
even be formatted FAT32 (FAT32 works up to 2TB with the
right formatter).
The "Safely Remove" thing has been modified, and to work
properly, formatting your new storage as NTFS, should give
the normal Safely Remove behaviors.
No, I don't like the changes they've made. They should have
left that stuff alone. It was working fine.
If you have a FAT32 stick now, you might as well just
remove it when the LED stops flashing. It really requires
the sticks have LEDs, so you have some idea the computer
is not using it. And that's not a good way to run this
stuff, making it LED dependent.
Some USB flash sticks, if you buy two items off the rack
at the store, one can have a LED and the other not have a LED,
and it depends on which foreign factory the stick was made in.
You would think the items on a single rack pin would be
from the same factory, but I checked when I got home, and they
were from different countries. The UPC code on the two products
is the same, but one has a LED, the other does not have a LED.
Paul
On 1/29/2024 8:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I connected the Y cable to the SATA cable and tested it
so we have the 3.0 port working. However, when I try to
eject the Patriot safely it doesn't give me a message its OK
to remove and the USB icon disappears.
https://postimg.cc/MvQytf16
Robert
It's possible the Patriot is formatted ExFAT or it could
even be formatted FAT32 (FAT32 works up to 2TB with the
right formatter).
The "Safely Remove" thing has been modified, and to work
properly, formatting your new storage as NTFS, should give
the normal Safely Remove behaviors.
No, I don't like the changes they've made. They should have
left that stuff alone. It was working fine.
If you have a FAT32 stick now, you might as well just
remove it when the LED stops flashing. It really requires
the sticks have LEDs, so you have some idea the computer
is not using it. And that's not a good way to run this
stuff, making it LED dependent.
Some USB flash sticks, if you buy two items off the rack
at the store, one can have a LED and the other not have a LED,
and it depends on which foreign factory the stick was made in.
You would think the items on a single rack pin would be
from the same factory, but I checked when I got home, and they
were from different countries. The UPC code on the two products
is the same, but one has a LED, the other does not have a LED.
Paul
On 1/29/2024 8:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I connected the Y cable to the SATA cable and tested it
so we have the 3.0 port working. However, when I try to
eject the Patriot safely it doesn't give me a message its OK
to remove and the USB icon disappears.
https://postimg.cc/MvQytf16
Robert
It's possible the Patriot is formatted ExFAT or it could
even be formatted FAT32 (FAT32 works up to 2TB with the
right formatter).
The "Safely Remove" thing has been modified, and to work
properly, formatting your new storage as NTFS, should give
the normal Safely Remove behaviors.
No, I don't like the changes they've made. They should have
left that stuff alone. It was working fine.
If you have a FAT32 stick now, you might as well just
remove it when the LED stops flashing. It really requires
the sticks have LEDs, so you have some idea the computer
is not using it. And that's not a good way to run this
stuff, making it LED dependent.
Some USB flash sticks, if you buy two items off the rack
at the store, one can have a LED and the other not have a LED,
and it depends on which foreign factory the stick was made in.
You would think the items on a single rack pin would be
from the same factory, but I checked when I got home, and they
were from different countries. The UPC code on the two products
is the same, but one has a LED, the other does not have a LED.
Paul
On 1/29/2024 8:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I connected the Y cable to the SATA cable and tested it
so we have the 3.0 port working. However, when I try to
eject the Patriot safely it doesn't give me a message its OK
to remove and the USB icon disappears.
https://postimg.cc/MvQytf16
Robert
It's possible the Patriot is formatted ExFAT or it could
even be formatted FAT32 (FAT32 works up to 2TB with the
right formatter).
The "Safely Remove" thing has been modified, and to work
properly, formatting your new storage as NTFS, should give
the normal Safely Remove behaviors.
No, I don't like the changes they've made. They should have
left that stuff alone. It was working fine.
If you have a FAT32 stick now, you might as well just
remove it when the LED stops flashing. It really requires
the sticks have LEDs, so you have some idea the computer
is not using it. And that's not a good way to run this
stuff, making it LED dependent.
Some USB flash sticks, if you buy two items off the rack
at the store, one can have a LED and the other not have a LED,
and it depends on which foreign factory the stick was made in.
You would think the items on a single rack pin would be
from the same factory, but I checked when I got home, and they
were from different countries. The UPC code on the two products
is the same, but one has a LED, the other does not have a LED.
Paul
Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.
Robert
On 1/30/2024 11:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.
Robert
Is your phone tied to Internet (VOIP) or is it
a cellphone ?
Paul
On 1/30/2024 11:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.
Robert
Is your phone tied to Internet (VOIP) or is it
a cellphone ?
Paul
On 1/30/2024 11:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.
Robert
Is your phone tied to Internet (VOIP) or is it
a cellphone ?
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/30/2024 11:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.
Robert
Is your phone tied to Internet (VOIP) or is it
a cellphone ?
Paul
I think I may be a bit confused,... maybe it was the 780 that had the safely remove issue and not the 8500 because I didn't attach a Patriot to the 8500.
I'll check it again later and make sure,..
Robert
On 1/31/2024 2:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/30/2024 11:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.
Robert
Is your phone tied to Internet (VOIP) or is it
a cellphone ?
Paul
I think I may be a bit confused,... maybe it was the 780 that had the safely remove issue and not the 8500 because I didn't attach a Patriot to the 8500.
I'll check it again later and make sure,..
Robert
The policy on individual devices can be changed, but
I think this has to do with whether caching is enabled or not.
I did not really get the impression that caching was
disabled. Even on the ones that don't have Safely Remove.
On one of my USB sticks, the performance is very uneven. And again,
I don't know if there is caching there or not. There should be,
but I'll have to check. And fiddling with that, isn't going to
make the stick work any better.
Whatever they're doing, I'm confused too, because I don't plan on
"checking anything" for my USB sticks :-) Not using the Windows dialogs at least.
*******
https://www.uwe-sieber.de/usbstick_e.html
Update Feb 2011
I was pointed to the fact that by means of the registry value WriteCacheEnableOverride
a write cache can be forced for any USB drive, even FAT formatted removeable drives.
And it indeed works! I have made a litte tool: USB-WriteCache
https://www.uwe-sieber.de/drivetools_e.html#USB-WriteCache
https://www.uwe-sieber.de/files/usb-writecache.zip <=== tick boxes for enabling write cache
Paul
On 1/31/2024 2:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/30/2024 11:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.
Robert
Is your phone tied to Internet (VOIP) or is it
a cellphone ?
Paul
I think I may be a bit confused,... maybe it was the 780 that had the safely remove issue and not the 8500 because I didn't attach a Patriot to the 8500.
I'll check it again later and make sure,..
Robert
The policy on individual devices can be changed, but
I think this has to do with whether caching is enabled or not.
I did not really get the impression that caching was
disabled. Even on the ones that don't have Safely Remove.
On one of my USB sticks, the performance is very uneven. And again,
I don't know if there is caching there or not. There should be,
but I'll have to check. And fiddling with that, isn't going to
make the stick work any better.
Whatever they're doing, I'm confused too, because I don't plan on
"checking anything" for my USB sticks :-) Not using the Windows dialogs at least.
*******
https://www.uwe-sieber.de/usbstick_e.html
Update Feb 2011
I was pointed to the fact that by means of the registry value WriteCacheEnableOverride
a write cache can be forced for any USB drive, even FAT formatted removeable drives.
And it indeed works! I have made a litte tool: USB-WriteCache
https://www.uwe-sieber.de/drivetools_e.html#USB-WriteCache
https://www.uwe-sieber.de/files/usb-writecache.zip <=== tick boxes for enabling write cache
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/30/2024 11:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.
Robert
Is your phone tied to Internet (VOIP) or is it
a cellphone ?
Paul
I think I may be a bit confused,... maybe it was the 780 that had the safely remove issue and not the 8500 because I didn't attach a Patriot to the 8500.
I'll check it again later and make sure,..
Robert
The policy on individual devices can be changed, but
I think this has to do with whether caching is enabled or not.
I did not really get the impression that caching was
disabled. Even on the ones that don't have Safely Remove.
On one of my USB sticks, the performance is very uneven. And again,
I don't know if there is caching there or not. There should be,
but I'll have to check. And fiddling with that, isn't going to
make the stick work any better.
Whatever they're doing, I'm confused too, because I don't plan on
"checking anything" for my USB sticks :-) Not using the Windows dialogs at least.
*******
https://www.uwe-sieber.de/usbstick_e.html
Update Feb 2011
I was pointed to the fact that by means of the registry value WriteCacheEnableOverride
a write cache can be forced for any USB drive, even FAT formatted removeable drives.
And it indeed works! I have made a litte tool: USB-WriteCache
https://www.uwe-sieber.de/drivetools_e.html#USB-WriteCache
https://www.uwe-sieber.de/files/usb-writecache.zip <=== tick boxes for enabling write cache
Paul
I downloaded your zip file and extracted it and tried to run it but Windows Defender stopped it. I’m having a hard time trying to get this to run and don’t even know what I’m doing.
https://postimg.cc/F7VY75Jm
Robert
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it).
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it).
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it).
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?
Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.
Paul
On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?
Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.
Paul
On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?
Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.
Paul
On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?
Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.
Paul
On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?
Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.
Paul
On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?
Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.
Paul
On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?
Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.
Paul
On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?
Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.
Paul
On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?
Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator. >>>>
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>>
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?
Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, >> maybe Notepad opens instead.
Paul
I was going to shut it down and start over but I got this,..
https://postimg.cc/gwYKj5sp
How long is this going to take? Its already run 1 hour and
the green bar hasn't moved at all.
Since it won't let me shut it down the only other way is to
power off the 780 manually. Or power off the modem but am afraid
of damaging the external hd's if I do.
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator. >>>>
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>>
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?
Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, >> maybe Notepad opens instead.
Paul
The 8500 mrimg is hung up. This time I didn’t mess up
with the external hd yet the 8500 mrimg is doing the same
type of thing as the 780 mrimg when I forgot to turn off
the external hd between mrimgs.
https://postimg.cc/ct6NdPfD
It’s been like this for hours and it won’t let me turn
it off either.
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator. >>>>
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>>
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?
Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, >> maybe Notepad opens instead.
Paul
The 8500 is still hung up and its been like this
all day. When I try to shut down it says macrium
is performing a task. All day?
It still says 1 hour and 41 minutes left and hasn't
budged.
How do I get out of this?
Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator. >>>>
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>>
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?
Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, >> maybe Notepad opens instead.
Paul
I finally had to powered off the modem, everything is OK,....
The 780 Win7 doesn't have Solani so I tried to put it on but
I could never get it to subscribe? I tried several times. I've
done this before but for some reason it just wouldn't do it.
Then I got this error.
https://postimg.cc/3yKZjsCL
https://postimg.cc/TL1qFnsg
I'll try running the 8500 mrimg again and hopefully I won't
have any problems.
Robert
On 2/2/2024 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator. >>>>>
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>>>
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif >>>>>
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ? >>>
Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, >>> maybe Notepad opens instead.
Paul
I finally had to powered off the modem, everything is OK,....
The 780 Win7 doesn't have Solani so I tried to put it on but
I could never get it to subscribe? I tried several times. I've
done this before but for some reason it just wouldn't do it.
Then I got this error.
https://postimg.cc/3yKZjsCL
https://postimg.cc/TL1qFnsg
I'll try running the 8500 mrimg again and hopefully I won't
have any problems.
Robert
PS C:> nslookup 65.108.165.7
Name: reader6.news.weretis.net
Address: 65.108.165.7
PS C:> nslookup news.solani.org
Non-authoritative answer:
Name: news.solani.org
Addresses: 2a01:4f8:c010:63b5::1
2a01:4f8:1c17:f346::1
157.90.249.56
65.108.165.7
The documentation for that server, said it was virtualized, and
it is running as a VM on a Xeon machine of some sort.
Yet, the nslookup suggests is is aliased to another piece of
equipment.
The IP address maps here. That's a Hetzner COLO in Finland.
IP address: 65.108.165.7
hostname: reader6.news.weretis.net
ISP: Hetzner Online GmbH
ASN: AS24940
City: Helsinki
Country: Finland (FI) flag
Postal code: 00131
latitude: 60.1797
longitude: 24.9344
I would treat this as some sort of configuration error on
their end. Maybe they were in the middle of a server move
or something. Perhaps they engineered a fallback behavior,
when the VM wasn't working or had crashed.
The documentation says "reader5" and "reader6" here, so that
part is consistent with their intentions. But the reverse
lookup above wasn't what I was expecting.
https://www.solani.org/technical/
Try again a day from now, give them time to fix it.
the absolute worst administrators, only visit their server
once a month :-) Which means a service outage can go a long
time without a fix. You can imagine how much usage such a
server gets.
Paul
On 2/2/2024 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
anyways.
https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv
https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81
I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
when connected.
I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.
Robert
The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator. >>>>>
But it still does not help. The settings do not help.
I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.
In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
(because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>>>
And it merited a Safely Remove entry.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif >>>>>
But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.
I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
always full of pit traps :-)
Paul
I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
un-readable.
This is what's on the Patriot:
https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6
So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?
Thanks,
Robert
Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ? >>>
Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, >>> maybe Notepad opens instead.
Paul
I finally had to powered off the modem, everything is OK,....
The 780 Win7 doesn't have Solani so I tried to put it on but
I could never get it to subscribe? I tried several times. I've
done this before but for some reason it just wouldn't do it.
Then I got this error.
https://postimg.cc/3yKZjsCL
https://postimg.cc/TL1qFnsg
I'll try running the 8500 mrimg again and hopefully I won't
have any problems.
Robert
PS C:> nslookup 65.108.165.7
Name: reader6.news.weretis.net
Address: 65.108.165.7
PS C:> nslookup news.solani.org
Non-authoritative answer:
Name: news.solani.org
Addresses: 2a01:4f8:c010:63b5::1
2a01:4f8:1c17:f346::1
157.90.249.56
65.108.165.7
The documentation for that server, said it was virtualized, and
it is running as a VM on a Xeon machine of some sort.
Yet, the nslookup suggests is is aliased to another piece of
equipment.
The IP address maps here. That's a Hetzner COLO in Finland.
IP address: 65.108.165.7
hostname: reader6.news.weretis.net
ISP: Hetzner Online GmbH
ASN: AS24940
City: Helsinki
Country: Finland (FI) flag
Postal code: 00131
latitude: 60.1797
longitude: 24.9344
I would treat this as some sort of configuration error on
their end. Maybe they were in the middle of a server move
or something. Perhaps they engineered a fallback behavior,
when the VM wasn't working or had crashed.
The documentation says "reader5" and "reader6" here, so that
part is consistent with their intentions. But the reverse
lookup above wasn't what I was expecting.
https://www.solani.org/technical/
Try again a day from now, give them time to fix it.
the absolute worst administrators, only visit their server
once a month :-) Which means a service outage can go a long
time without a fix. You can imagine how much usage such a
server gets.
Paul
Yes, the test only takes 10 seconds because I watched it
on the 8500 mrimg backup.
The target for the backups is the 6TB external hd's.
Yes, I used the new PCI card with3.0 ports. It's a bit
cumbersome though having to plug it in the rear and
on the bottom because it's on a board on the floor.
I couldn't get any of the buttons to react when it was
hung up. I tried hitting cancel and pause and I try
clicking cancel and pause but there was no reaction.
So you want me to use the newer macrium Rescue CD
for the 8500 ? I made a V7.3.6391, 64 bit on 12-5-23
so use that instead?
Robert
On 2/3/2024 12:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Yes, the test only takes 10 seconds because I watched it
on the 8500 mrimg backup.
The target for the backups is the 6TB external hd's.
Yes, I used the new PCI card with3.0 ports. It's a bit
cumbersome though having to plug it in the rear and
on the bottom because it's on a board on the floor.
I couldn't get any of the buttons to react when it was
hung up. I tried hitting cancel and pause and I try
clicking cancel and pause but there was no reaction.
So you want me to use the newer macrium Rescue CD
for the 8500 ? I made a V7.3.6391, 64 bit on 12-5-23
so use that instead?
Robert
You can test the 6TB manually, using that interface in the picture.
You can do that from the running copy of Windows, just to verify
the disk is OK.
The CD images could use a different driver, and yes, trying
another one of your CDs might be a quick way to check.
Paul
On 2/3/2024 12:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Yes, the test only takes 10 seconds because I watched it
on the 8500 mrimg backup.
The target for the backups is the 6TB external hd's.
Yes, I used the new PCI card with3.0 ports. It's a bit
cumbersome though having to plug it in the rear and
on the bottom because it's on a board on the floor.
I couldn't get any of the buttons to react when it was
hung up. I tried hitting cancel and pause and I try
clicking cancel and pause but there was no reaction.
So you want me to use the newer macrium Rescue CD
for the 8500 ? I made a V7.3.6391, 64 bit on 12-5-23
so use that instead?
Robert
You can test the 6TB manually, using that interface in the picture.
You can do that from the running copy of Windows, just to verify
the disk is OK.
The CD images could use a different driver, and yes, trying
another one of your CDs might be a quick way to check.
Paul
After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usuallyhave to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.
We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.
Robert
On 2/4/2024 8:50 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Clean install of Win 10
I've tried to think this through,....while re-reading instructions
create mrimg for 8500 Win10 hd before erasing it, <=== good idea
#2 disconnect the Win 7 external hd
#4 disconnect Ethernet
remove external hd
restart macrium and erase hd following your instructions with command prompt <=== Yes, you can select it, then do "clean"
remove macrium Rescue CD and replace with 22H2 DVD+DRL and leave tray open, close macrium and reboot
#3 - I choose Legacy Bios, correct? Am I booting to the BIOS at this point, F2 ?
How do I enable Legacy vs UEFI and how do I enable Secure Boot? <=== use the BIOS mode as currently set
you want W7 and W10 disks to boot the same way
#5 - were not booting from a flash drive but a DVD, I assume the tray will close
automatically at this point and load 22H2?
#6 - 64 bit installation <=== fixed by the DVD you made
#9 - skip product key
#10 - select Win 10 Pro edition to install <=== Yes
#14 - I'm unclear what to do here,... since the hd drive will be erased it shouldn't have
any partitions. Do I just click on the drive letter it gives me? <=== The big partition is C:
#23 - > go to step 25
#25 - bogus phone number, <=== Mainly, you want offline account in the left corner
click lower left offline account <=== You don't need to tease the thing.
do I enter bogus phone number again? <=== No, keep looking for the Limited Experience option
Windows 10 Enterprise - click lower left; Domain join instead <=== You're doing Pro, not Enterprise.
click lower left - Limited Experience
enter User name - Administrator's name? <=== Yes, this will be your administrator
enter password -
confirm password
security questions
privacy settings - I usually turn all of these off except inking & typing skip forums
skip Cortana <=== Yes, generally skip all the silly stuff.
#27 - Network Discovery - no <=== Might be used for File Sharing or Printing issues
<=== Your network is a Private one.
#28 - Welcome to Windows -
#29 - set time zone/date and time <=== Set time zone at least. Eyeball time correctness.
#30 - install drivers e.g. FF, SeaMonkey, A/V Suite, bookmarks, My Documents <=== It will do a lot of drivers for you
What do you think?
Robert
*******
Your list looks pretty good. I put comments by the side.
Paul
On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.
After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.
Robert
Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?
The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
As is the SATA port for the hard drive.
The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.
Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
so they require a key press at that point. Will a
key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.
I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.
Paul
On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.
After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.
Robert
Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?
The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
As is the SATA port for the hard drive.
The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.
Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
so they require a key press at that point. Will a
key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.
I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.
Paul
On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.
After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.
Robert
Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?
The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
As is the SATA port for the hard drive.
The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.
Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
so they require a key press at that point. Will a
key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.
I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.
Paul
Paul wrote:have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.
On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.
Robert
Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?
The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
As is the SATA port for the hard drive.
The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.
Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
so they require a key press at that point. Will a
key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.
I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.
Paul
I tried to subscribe to Solani again on the 780 Win7 but
found I had a older version of Seamonkey which offered
a download for a newer stable version. So I downloaded
it (hex8) and then installed it but still same thing nothing.
https://postimg.cc/k6WJqmhd
Robert
Paul wrote:have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.
On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.
Robert
Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?
The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
As is the SATA port for the hard drive.
The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.
Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
so they require a key press at that point. Will a
key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.
I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.
Paul
I checked the BIOS and boot order, then the hard disk drives,
then the CD/DVD ROM Drives. Then the 4th boot device.
How do I change the boot order ?
https://postimg.cc/5XszhZX0
https://postimg.cc/DJXbb0BJ
https://postimg.cc/T5jLCS8T
https://postimg.cc/YvD4nYPL
Thanks,
Robert
On 2/5/2024 11:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.
Paul wrote:
On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.
Robert
Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?
The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
As is the SATA port for the hard drive.
The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.
Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
so they require a key press at that point. Will a
key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.
I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.
Paul
I checked the BIOS and boot order, then the hard disk drives,
then the CD/DVD ROM Drives. Then the 4th boot device.
How do I change the boot order ?
https://postimg.cc/5XszhZX0
https://postimg.cc/DJXbb0BJ
https://postimg.cc/T5jLCS8T
https://postimg.cc/YvD4nYPL
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, you would click on the third row (say, the Optical drive
you want to promote to the top), and on the right hand pane where
it provides help, it tells you what keys to use for elevation. It
might be the plus key and the minus key, to make it go up and down.
The arrow keys would allow you to focus on a different row, then use
the + and - keys to move the item around.
It should usually be some sort of combination of keys like that.
For my Retail UEFI BIOS here, I've never tried to move the
boot icons around with a mouse :-) I've got enough broken stuff
without starting into that. I just prefer to use the popup boot
key if I have a special thing that needs doing. On this machine,
F11 is popup boot and <Delete> key gets me into the BIOS. On
the Asus machine, F8 is popup boot and <Delete> key gets me into the
BIOS. Another machine, I think F2 gets me into the BIOS.
*******
OK, from some manual
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/417162/Dell-Xps-8500.html?page=127#manual
Changing Boot Sequence for Future Boots
1) Enter system setup. See "Entering System Setup" on page 119. [That's your "BIOS key"]
2) Use the arrow keys to highlight the Boot menu option
and press <Enter> to access the menu.
NOTE:
3) Press the up-arrow and down-arrow keys to move through the list of devices
[this navigates to the row you want to act on]
4) Press plus (+) or minus (–) to change the boot priority of the device
[push device up the screen].
Paul
On 2/5/2024 11:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.
Paul wrote:
On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.
Robert
Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?
The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
As is the SATA port for the hard drive.
The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.
Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
so they require a key press at that point. Will a
key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.
I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.
Paul
I checked the BIOS and boot order, then the hard disk drives,
then the CD/DVD ROM Drives. Then the 4th boot device.
How do I change the boot order ?
https://postimg.cc/5XszhZX0
https://postimg.cc/DJXbb0BJ
https://postimg.cc/T5jLCS8T
https://postimg.cc/YvD4nYPL
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, you would click on the third row (say, the Optical drive
you want to promote to the top), and on the right hand pane where
it provides help, it tells you what keys to use for elevation. It
might be the plus key and the minus key, to make it go up and down.
The arrow keys would allow you to focus on a different row, then use
the + and - keys to move the item around.
It should usually be some sort of combination of keys like that.
For my Retail UEFI BIOS here, I've never tried to move the
boot icons around with a mouse :-) I've got enough broken stuff
without starting into that. I just prefer to use the popup boot
key if I have a special thing that needs doing. On this machine,
F11 is popup boot and <Delete> key gets me into the BIOS. On
the Asus machine, F8 is popup boot and <Delete> key gets me into the
BIOS. Another machine, I think F2 gets me into the BIOS.
*******
OK, from some manual
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/417162/Dell-Xps-8500.html?page=127#manual
Changing Boot Sequence for Future Boots
1) Enter system setup. See "Entering System Setup" on page 119. [That's your "BIOS key"]
2) Use the arrow keys to highlight the Boot menu option
and press <Enter> to access the menu.
NOTE:
3) Press the up-arrow and down-arrow keys to move through the list of devices
[this navigates to the row you want to act on]
4) Press plus (+) or minus (–) to change the boot priority of the device
[push device up the screen].
Paul
On 2/5/2024 11:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.
Paul wrote:
On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.
Robert
Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?
The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
As is the SATA port for the hard drive.
The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.
Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
so they require a key press at that point. Will a
key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.
I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.
Paul
I checked the BIOS and boot order, then the hard disk drives,
then the CD/DVD ROM Drives. Then the 4th boot device.
How do I change the boot order ?
https://postimg.cc/5XszhZX0
https://postimg.cc/DJXbb0BJ
https://postimg.cc/T5jLCS8T
https://postimg.cc/YvD4nYPL
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, you would click on the third row (say, the Optical drive
you want to promote to the top), and on the right hand pane where
it provides help, it tells you what keys to use for elevation. It
might be the plus key and the minus key, to make it go up and down.
The arrow keys would allow you to focus on a different row, then use
the + and - keys to move the item around.
It should usually be some sort of combination of keys like that.
For my Retail UEFI BIOS here, I've never tried to move the
boot icons around with a mouse :-) I've got enough broken stuff
without starting into that. I just prefer to use the popup boot
key if I have a special thing that needs doing. On this machine,
F11 is popup boot and <Delete> key gets me into the BIOS. On
the Asus machine, F8 is popup boot and <Delete> key gets me into the
BIOS. Another machine, I think F2 gets me into the BIOS.
*******
OK, from some manual
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/417162/Dell-Xps-8500.html?page=127#manual
Changing Boot Sequence for Future Boots
1) Enter system setup. See "Entering System Setup" on page 119. [That's your "BIOS key"]
2) Use the arrow keys to highlight the Boot menu option
and press <Enter> to access the menu.
NOTE:
3) Press the up-arrow and down-arrow keys to move through the list of devices
[this navigates to the row you want to act on]
4) Press plus (+) or minus (–) to change the boot priority of the device
[push device up the screen].
Paul
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
I’m on the 780; I started the chkdsk C: /r
https://postimg.cc/nXJnRdqm
https://postimg.cc/K1vH8B2V
It’s weird its X: not C: after I did the cd/
At present; Stage is at 56% and Total is 8%
Also SeaMonkey prompted me for my
Username and password.
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
I started to run the mrimg then I got this:
https://postimg.cc/XGH6Hkrn
https://postimg.cc/zbWTp0tg
https://postimg.cc/w3Qwpj2s
https://postimg.cc/d70Y8f05
Ok now what? Should I run chkdsk from
the command prompt?
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
I ran the chkdsk C: /r then ran the mrimg.
The 3rd picture shows a Recycle bin folder
and System Volume Information folder. I did
not create those. I usually only see the
8500 Mrimgs folder. The fourth picture shows
the mrimg I created at the top.
https://postimg.cc/5Q8Z8S8L
https://postimg.cc/4HR04Hjd
https://postimg.cc/zb7dN2wd
https://postimg.cc/7G5CPf0p
Tomorrow I'll erase the hd and then install
Win10. I'll let you know how it goes.
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
I’m on the 780; I started the chkdsk C: /r
https://postimg.cc/nXJnRdqm
https://postimg.cc/K1vH8B2V
It’s weird its X: not C: after I did the cd/
At present; Stage is at 56% and Total is 8%
Also SeaMonkey prompted me for my
Username and password.
Robert
I started the procedure to erase the hd but it doesn’t
appear to be doing anything? It’s been 30 minutes
now and I don’t see any files or folders being erased.
Is it supposed to run like this?
https://postimg.cc/gnHXrMNf
In passing, Solani again prompted me for my User
name and password even after I clicked the box to
remember it. This is getting tiring. So I used Paganini
instead.
Robert
I completed erasing the hd and exited from the command prompt.
I disconnected the Ethernet connection and removed the Macrium
Rescue CD and put in the 22H2 DVD and left the tray open as instructed.
then restarted the 8500.
The tray closed automatically and started Win 10 installation, It restarted (11) times and I clicked that I don’t have a Product Key number because you said not to enter the product key but will it
ask for it later?
Each time it had me enter the same information as before and it seemed like was in a loop. It installs Windows then restarts then starts the same thing all over.
It finally moved forward and I was able to install Win 10 but it didn’t ask for any email or phone number or show any anything in the lower left corner. Once I selected Win10 Pro it just went from one screen to another.
I switched hd's back to Win 7 Pro for the time being.
I'll start adding things and change the settings so FF is my browser, turn off notifications and install SeaMonkey, Word/Excel and Dell Imaging. Then my A/V suite,bookmarks and finally My Documents.
Also next time I do mrimgs, delete the Rogue User mrimg.
Robert
Here's pics of the install:
https://postimg.cc/3dX0yY3r
https://postimg.cc/5H0XkzLj
https://postimg.cc/hfvPnnh3
https://postimg.cc/3kD8yZXX
https://postimg.cc/D4ZF7Qfb
https://postimg.cc/68RK6pKz
https://postimg.cc/5YPdKH59
https://postimg.cc/qN8fVDc5
https://postimg.cc/9w4SxLF1
https://postimg.cc/FfDBNMYD
this was taken after a restart to compare the changes
in the primary partition.
https://postimg.cc/jWF48tw0
https://postimg.cc/mty3vQzS
https://postimg.cc/5HT8BgTf
https://postimg.cc/Thrnbr9X
https://postimg.cc/Wd4ZxxP2
https://postimg.cc/9DN921Wy
https://postimg.cc/dkGZ8YG9
https://postimg.cc/fSK3rf2t
https://postimg.cc/yWzv26ps
https://postimg.cc/Czc7ZGhx
https://postimg.cc/zHJwvB4h
Robert
This is a test on the 8500 Win 10 User Account.
I’ve downloaded all my A/V suite, and installed
Word, Excel, Dell Imaging. I still have to import
my bookmarks and copy/paste My Documents.
I looked and I don’t seem to have a link to download
and install Macrium. Could you please provide one?
It looks like were pretty much done unless you want
to try to fix the bad hd or we can clone other hd’s?
Thoughts/suggestions?
Many Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version). The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif
Paul
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version). The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif
Paul
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version). The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif
Paul
I believe I bought the hd from Newegg and was a Win7 hd
in the computer until we upgraded to Win 10 and I put them
away. So it was a new hd that went bad but it seems OK now
though. I haven't encountered any problems with it.
I'll check the hd with HD-tune and show you the results.
Thanks for the Macrium download link, I appreciate it
I actually used the search box to get allot of things done. I'd
rather keep it there. It helps me navigate Win10. I try and not
open up news and interests and all the tile crap.
I don't understand how you can run HD-Tune with Macrium?
I have almost everything done on the 8500 Win10, after
I download Macrium I'll nearly be done.
However, I hit a snag. for some weird reason I can't install my
Dell Image Expert 2000 on Win10 even though I have the
original CD it keeps giving me an error and won't complete.
I do have good copies of it on Win 7 so I copy/ pasted the folder
to a Patriot and then to the Win10 User Account Programs(x86)
in hopes you can figure a way to get it to run from there?
https://postimg.cc/kBfrKzmQ
https://postimg.cc/XBLPKGTj
Once complete I'll create a mrimg,...
Then we can do anything you would like me to do.
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
The free version is 2.55.
https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe
Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).
*******
To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:
1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD
2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.
3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
it in Macrium.
The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button,
and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after
you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
the picture over to the other machine.
It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
Unlike Windows 10.
If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
to tricks to do checks like this.
Paul
On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
The free version is 2.55.
https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe
Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).
*******
To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:
1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD
2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.
3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
it in Macrium.
The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button,
and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after
you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
the picture over to the other machine.
It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
Unlike Windows 10.
If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
to tricks to do checks like this.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:I understand what you mean about using Macrium
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
The free version is 2.55.
https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe
Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).
*******
To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:
1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD
2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.
3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
it in Macrium.
The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button,
and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after
you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
the picture over to the other machine.
It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
Unlike Windows 10.
If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
to tricks to do checks like this.
and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
it had no issues.
My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
So it was installed recently and it worked fine.
Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
should be very straightforward and I've done this before
and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?
Robert
On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:I understand what you mean about using Macrium
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
The free version is 2.55.
https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe
Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so, >>> the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).
*******
To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:
1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD
2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.
3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
it in Macrium.
The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button,
and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after
you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped >>> the picture over to the other machine.
It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
Unlike Windows 10.
If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
to tricks to do checks like this.
and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
it had no issues.
My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
So it was installed recently and it worked fine.
Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
should be very straightforward and I've done this before
and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?
Robert
The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
Click the "Compatibility" tab.
You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
Tick the box to turn on the mode.
In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.
Click Apply in the lower-right corner.
Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
apply a compatibility layer, making things
"look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.
This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
That's why an application still might not work right.
Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
have tried to install that one in Windows 10.
*******
After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
"main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
that later, once the install problem is overcome.
Paul
On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:I understand what you mean about using Macrium
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
The free version is 2.55.
https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe
Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so, >>> the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).
*******
To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:
1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD
2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.
3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
it in Macrium.
The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button,
and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after
you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped >>> the picture over to the other machine.
It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
Unlike Windows 10.
If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
to tricks to do checks like this.
and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
it had no issues.
My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
So it was installed recently and it worked fine.
Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
should be very straightforward and I've done this before
and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?
Robert
The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
Click the "Compatibility" tab.
You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
Tick the box to turn on the mode.
In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.
Click Apply in the lower-right corner.
Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
apply a compatibility layer, making things
"look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.
This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
That's why an application still might not work right.
Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
have tried to install that one in Windows 10.
*******
After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
"main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
that later, once the install problem is overcome.
Paul
I went into Properties and changed the settings
https://postimg.cc/7CstpQpJ
but it failed again. Then I tried to repair it and uninstalled it
and then tried again and seemed like it was working but it failed
again.
https://postimg.cc/8jQXQvn4
https://postimg.cc/0Kpf2tHf
https://postimg.cc/wt7QsxG3
https://postimg.cc/ctZ3TdXR
https://postimg.cc/Dmdph0kK
https://postimg.cc/mPq8jFM7
https://postimg.cc/R61dvsYT
https://postimg.cc/BPqgb59f
https://postimg.cc/KR8fy5Dn
https://postimg.cc/yJcXTp7z
The Dell Image Expert 2000 icon looks different in Programs
Win 7 and Win 10. They both are the same size though?
https://postimg.cc/HjsXJk8m - Win 7
https://postimg.cc/w1JmKtZX - Win 10
I found this link with people having the same problem but dated 2008.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/windows-general/dell-image-expert/647e684cf4ccf8a8def59c91
I was thinking maybe I can download on of these?
https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-us/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r55365
https://dell-picture-studio-dell-image-expert.updatestar.com/en
What do you think?
Robert
Paul wrote:
On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:I understand what you mean about using Macrium
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
The free version is 2.55.
https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe
Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so, >>>> the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10). >>>>
*******
To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:
1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD
2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.
3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
it in Macrium.
The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button,
and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after
you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped >>>> the picture over to the other machine.
It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
Unlike Windows 10.
If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
to tricks to do checks like this.
and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
it had no issues.
My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
So it was installed recently and it worked fine.
Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
should be very straightforward and I've done this before
and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?
Robert
The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
Click the "Compatibility" tab.
You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
Tick the box to turn on the mode.
In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.
Click Apply in the lower-right corner.
Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
apply a compatibility layer, making things
"look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.
This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
That's why an application still might not work right.
Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
have tried to install that one in Windows 10.
*******
After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
"main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
that later, once the install problem is overcome.
Paul
Success @!the 8500 Win 10.
You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User Account on
https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK
https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC
The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,.......
If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like
maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you
want me to do something else?
Many thanks for all your good help,
Robert
On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:the 8500 Win 10.
Paul wrote:
On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:I understand what you mean about using Macrium
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>> I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif >>>>>>>
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
The free version is 2.55.
https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe
Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so, >>>>> the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10). >>>>>
*******
To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:
1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD
2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.
3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
it in Macrium.
The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped >>>>> the picture over to the other machine.
It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
Unlike Windows 10.
If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
to tricks to do checks like this.
and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
it had no issues.
My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
So it was installed recently and it worked fine.
Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
should be very straightforward and I've done this before
and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?
Robert
The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
Click the "Compatibility" tab.
You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
Tick the box to turn on the mode.
In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.
Click Apply in the lower-right corner.
Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
apply a compatibility layer, making things
"look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.
This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
That's why an application still might not work right.
Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
have tried to install that one in Windows 10.
*******
After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
"main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
that later, once the install problem is overcome.
Paul
Success @!
You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User Account on
https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK
https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC
The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,.......
If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like
maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you
want me to do something else?
Many thanks for all your good help,
Robert
At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
partition with the problem is C:
If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
text as it runs.
If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
(like five hours) and see what the scan shows.
Paul
On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:the 8500 Win 10.
Paul wrote:
On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:I understand what you mean about using Macrium
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>> I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif >>>>>>>
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
The free version is 2.55.
https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe
Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so, >>>>> the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10). >>>>>
*******
To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:
1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD
2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.
3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
it in Macrium.
The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped >>>>> the picture over to the other machine.
It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
Unlike Windows 10.
If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
to tricks to do checks like this.
and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
it had no issues.
My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
So it was installed recently and it worked fine.
Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
should be very straightforward and I've done this before
and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?
Robert
The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
Click the "Compatibility" tab.
You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
Tick the box to turn on the mode.
In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.
Click Apply in the lower-right corner.
Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
apply a compatibility layer, making things
"look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.
This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
That's why an application still might not work right.
Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
have tried to install that one in Windows 10.
*******
After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
"main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
that later, once the install problem is overcome.
Paul
Success @!
You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User Account on
https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK
https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC
The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,.......
If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like
maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you
want me to do something else?
Many thanks for all your good help,
Robert
At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
partition with the problem is C:
If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
text as it runs.
If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
(like five hours) and see what the scan shows.
Paul
On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:the 8500 Win 10.
Paul wrote:
On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:I understand what you mean about using Macrium
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>> I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif >>>>>>>
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
The free version is 2.55.
https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe
Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so, >>>>> the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10). >>>>>
*******
To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:
1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD
2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.
3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
it in Macrium.
The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped >>>>> the picture over to the other machine.
It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
Unlike Windows 10.
If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
to tricks to do checks like this.
and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
it had no issues.
My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
So it was installed recently and it worked fine.
Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
should be very straightforward and I've done this before
and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?
Robert
The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
Click the "Compatibility" tab.
You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
Tick the box to turn on the mode.
In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.
Click Apply in the lower-right corner.
Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
apply a compatibility layer, making things
"look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.
This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
That's why an application still might not work right.
Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
have tried to install that one in Windows 10.
*******
After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
"main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
that later, once the install problem is overcome.
Paul
Success @!
You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User Account on
https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK
https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC
The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,.......
If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like
maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you
want me to do something else?
Many thanks for all your good help,
Robert
At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
partition with the problem is C:
If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
text as it runs.
If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
(like five hours) and see what the scan shows.
Paul
Paul wrote:on the 8500 Win 10.
On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:I understand what you mean about using Macrium
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>>> I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif >>>>>>>>
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
The free version is 2.55.
https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe
Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10). >>>>>>
*******
To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:
1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD
2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86). >>>>>> You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.
3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running. >>>>>> So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use >>>>>> it in Macrium.
The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or >>>>>> place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped >>>>>> the picture over to the other machine.
It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
Unlike Windows 10.
If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
to tricks to do checks like this.
and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
it had no issues.
My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
So it was installed recently and it worked fine.
Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
should be very straightforward and I've done this before
and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?
Robert
The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
Click the "Compatibility" tab.
You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
Tick the box to turn on the mode.
In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.
Click Apply in the lower-right corner.
Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
apply a compatibility layer, making things
"look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.
This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
That's why an application still might not work right.
Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
have tried to install that one in Windows 10.
*******
After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
"main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
that later, once the install problem is overcome.
Paul
Success @!
You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User Account
https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK
https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC
The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,.......
If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like
maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you
want me to do something else?
Many thanks for all your good help,
Robert
At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
partition with the problem is C:
If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
text as it runs.
If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
(like five hours) and see what the scan shows.
Paul
Here's the HD-Tune scan:
https://postimg.cc/0MKFYgy0
then I ran the chkdsk /f C: with the Macrium Rescue CD
https://postimg.cc/VSdVwynP
In passing, when I use Solani on the 8500 it doesn't ask
for the User name and password but the 780 does. Why
the difference?
Robert
On 2/15/2024 11:10 AM, RobnCA wrote:on the 8500 Win 10.
Paul wrote:
On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:I understand what you mean about using Macrium
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>>>> I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off >>>>>>>>> News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these >>>>>>>>> things bother you, as to whether you would care about details >>>>>>>>> like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif >>>>>>>>>
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
The free version is 2.55.
https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe
Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10). >>>>>>>
*******
To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:
1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD
2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86). >>>>>>> You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.
3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running. >>>>>>> So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use >>>>>>> it in Macrium.
The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or >>>>>>> place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
the picture over to the other machine.
It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
Unlike Windows 10.
If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
to tricks to do checks like this.
and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
it had no issues.
My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
So it was installed recently and it worked fine.
Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
should be very straightforward and I've done this before
and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?
Robert
The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
Click the "Compatibility" tab.
You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
Tick the box to turn on the mode.
In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.
Click Apply in the lower-right corner.
Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
apply a compatibility layer, making things
"look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.
This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
That's why an application still might not work right.
Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
have tried to install that one in Windows 10.
*******
After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
"main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
that later, once the install problem is overcome.
Paul
Success @!
You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User Account
https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK
https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC
The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,.......
If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like
maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you
want me to do something else?
Many thanks for all your good help,
Robert
At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
partition with the problem is C:
If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
text as it runs.
If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
(like five hours) and see what the scan shows.
Paul
Here's the HD-Tune scan:
https://postimg.cc/0MKFYgy0
then I ran the chkdsk /f C: with the Macrium Rescue CD
https://postimg.cc/VSdVwynP
In passing, when I use Solani on the 8500 it doesn't ask
for the User name and password but the 780 does. Why
the difference?
Robert
"44C"
Is that drive inside the PC or in the enclosure ?
That's a bit warm.
The Dell boxes don't necessarily move a lot of air for cooling.
Your CHKDSK was clean.
Paul
Paul wrote:on the 8500 Win 10.
On 2/15/2024 11:10 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:I understand what you mean about using Macrium
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>>>>> I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the >>>>>>>>>> menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off >>>>>>>>>> News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these >>>>>>>>>> things bother you, as to whether you would care about details >>>>>>>>>> like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif >>>>>>>>>>
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
The free version is 2.55.
https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe
Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive. >>>>>>>> Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).
*******
To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:
1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD
2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86). >>>>>>>> You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.
3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running. >>>>>>>> So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use >>>>>>>> it in Macrium.
The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or >>>>>>>> place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
the picture over to the other machine.
It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
Unlike Windows 10.
If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
to tricks to do checks like this.
and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
it had no issues.
My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
So it was installed recently and it worked fine.
Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
should be very straightforward and I've done this before
and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?
Robert
The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it. >>>>>> Click the "Compatibility" tab.
You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
Tick the box to turn on the mode.
In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.
Click Apply in the lower-right corner.
Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
apply a compatibility layer, making things
"look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.
This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
That's why an application still might not work right.
Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
have tried to install that one in Windows 10.
*******
After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
"main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
that later, once the install problem is overcome.
Paul
Success @!
You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User Account
https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK
https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC
The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,....... >>>>>
If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like
maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you
want me to do something else?
Many thanks for all your good help,
Robert
At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
partition with the problem is C:
If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
text as it runs.
If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
(like five hours) and see what the scan shows.
Paul
Here's the HD-Tune scan:
https://postimg.cc/0MKFYgy0
then I ran the chkdsk /f C: with the Macrium Rescue CD
https://postimg.cc/VSdVwynP
In passing, when I use Solani on the 8500 it doesn't ask
for the User name and password but the 780 does. Why
the difference?
Robert
"44C"
Is that drive inside the PC or in the enclosure ?
That's a bit warm.
The Dell boxes don't necessarily move a lot of air for cooling.
Your CHKDSK was clean.
Paul
The drive is inside the computer. I cleaned it
the first time I opened it but maybe I need to
clean it again. The problem is all the perforated
holes and they are hard to get clean even with
the mini vac. They should make an attachment
for those.
That said, the computer is very quiet and runs
smooth and has lasted all these years with your
good help.
I switched hd's again and deleted the rogue user
mrimg before starting. Then completed a mrimg
on the 8500 Win 10.
https://postimg.cc/TyrRsX9g
Everything is looking good. and looks like we've
got everything done.
Unless you want me to do anything I guess were
finished.
In passing, do you think we'll still be able to message
after Google pulls the plug? I think I'm going to send
you a test message then just to check and make sure,
Many, many thanks for all your good help,
Robert
On 2/15/2024 9:23 PM, RobnCA wrote:Account on the 8500 Win 10.
Paul wrote:
On 2/15/2024 11:10 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:I understand what you mean about using Macrium
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>>>>>> I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked! >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the >>>>>>>>>>> menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the >>>>>>>>>>> search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off >>>>>>>>>>> News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these >>>>>>>>>>> things bother you, as to whether you would care about details >>>>>>>>>>> like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune, >>>>>>>>>>> the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a >>>>>>>>>> HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
The free version is 2.55.
https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe
Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive. >>>>>>>>> Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).
*******
To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:
1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD
2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86). >>>>>>>>> You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.
3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use >>>>>>>>> it in Macrium.
The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>>>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>>>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or >>>>>>>>> place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
the picture over to the other machine.
It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD >>>>>>>>> and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do. >>>>>>>>> Unlike Windows 10.
If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
to tricks to do checks like this.
and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
it had no issues.
My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
So it was installed recently and it worked fine.
Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
should be very straightforward and I've done this before
and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?
Robert
The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it. >>>>>>> Click the "Compatibility" tab.
You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
Tick the box to turn on the mode.
In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.
Click Apply in the lower-right corner.
Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
apply a compatibility layer, making things
"look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.
This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
That's why an application still might not work right.
Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
have tried to install that one in Windows 10.
*******
After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
"main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
that later, once the install problem is overcome.
Paul
Success @!
You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User
https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK
https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC
The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,....... >>>>>>
If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like >>>>>> maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you >>>>>> want me to do something else?
Many thanks for all your good help,
Robert
At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
partition with the problem is C:
If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
text as it runs.
If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
(like five hours) and see what the scan shows.
Paul
Here's the HD-Tune scan:
https://postimg.cc/0MKFYgy0
then I ran the chkdsk /f C: with the Macrium Rescue CD
https://postimg.cc/VSdVwynP
In passing, when I use Solani on the 8500 it doesn't ask
for the User name and password but the 780 does. Why
the difference?
Robert
"44C"
Is that drive inside the PC or in the enclosure ?
That's a bit warm.
The Dell boxes don't necessarily move a lot of air for cooling.
Your CHKDSK was clean.
Paul
The drive is inside the computer. I cleaned it
the first time I opened it but maybe I need to
clean it again. The problem is all the perforated
holes and they are hard to get clean even with
the mini vac. They should make an attachment
for those.
That said, the computer is very quiet and runs
smooth and has lasted all these years with your
good help.
I switched hd's again and deleted the rogue user
mrimg before starting. Then completed a mrimg
on the 8500 Win 10.
https://postimg.cc/TyrRsX9g
Everything is looking good. and looks like we've
got everything done.
Unless you want me to do anything I guess were
finished.
In passing, do you think we'll still be able to message
after Google pulls the plug? I think I'm going to send
you a test message then just to check and make sure,
Many, many thanks for all your good help,
Robert
You're welcome.
Enjoy your new OS :-)
Paul
On 2/15/2024 9:23 PM, RobnCA wrote:Account on the 8500 Win 10.
Paul wrote:
On 2/15/2024 11:10 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:I understand what you mean about using Macrium
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>>>>>> I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked! >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the >>>>>>>>>>> menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the >>>>>>>>>>> search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off >>>>>>>>>>> News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these >>>>>>>>>>> things bother you, as to whether you would care about details >>>>>>>>>>> like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune, >>>>>>>>>>> the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a >>>>>>>>>> HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
The free version is 2.55.
https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe
Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive. >>>>>>>>> Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).
*******
To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:
1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD
2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86). >>>>>>>>> You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.
3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use >>>>>>>>> it in Macrium.
The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>>>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>>>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or >>>>>>>>> place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
the picture over to the other machine.
It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD >>>>>>>>> and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do. >>>>>>>>> Unlike Windows 10.
If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
to tricks to do checks like this.
and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
it had no issues.
My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
So it was installed recently and it worked fine.
Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
should be very straightforward and I've done this before
and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?
Robert
The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it. >>>>>>> Click the "Compatibility" tab.
You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
Tick the box to turn on the mode.
In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.
Click Apply in the lower-right corner.
Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
apply a compatibility layer, making things
"look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.
This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
That's why an application still might not work right.
Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
have tried to install that one in Windows 10.
*******
After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
"main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
that later, once the install problem is overcome.
Paul
Success @!
You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User
https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK
https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC
The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,....... >>>>>>
If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like >>>>>> maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you >>>>>> want me to do something else?
Many thanks for all your good help,
Robert
At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
partition with the problem is C:
If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
text as it runs.
If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
(like five hours) and see what the scan shows.
Paul
Here's the HD-Tune scan:
https://postimg.cc/0MKFYgy0
then I ran the chkdsk /f C: with the Macrium Rescue CD
https://postimg.cc/VSdVwynP
In passing, when I use Solani on the 8500 it doesn't ask
for the User name and password but the 780 does. Why
the difference?
Robert
"44C"
Is that drive inside the PC or in the enclosure ?
That's a bit warm.
The Dell boxes don't necessarily move a lot of air for cooling.
Your CHKDSK was clean.
Paul
The drive is inside the computer. I cleaned it
the first time I opened it but maybe I need to
clean it again. The problem is all the perforated
holes and they are hard to get clean even with
the mini vac. They should make an attachment
for those.
That said, the computer is very quiet and runs
smooth and has lasted all these years with your
good help.
I switched hd's again and deleted the rogue user
mrimg before starting. Then completed a mrimg
on the 8500 Win 10.
https://postimg.cc/TyrRsX9g
Everything is looking good. and looks like we've
got everything done.
Unless you want me to do anything I guess were
finished.
In passing, do you think we'll still be able to message
after Google pulls the plug? I think I'm going to send
you a test message then just to check and make sure,
Many, many thanks for all your good help,
Robert
You're welcome.
Enjoy your new OS :-)
Paul
On 2/15/2024 9:23 PM, RobnCA wrote:Account on the 8500 Win 10.
Paul wrote:
On 2/15/2024 11:10 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:I understand what you mean about using Macrium
Paul wrote:
On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success !
https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90
However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>>>>>> I see the results.
I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked! >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Robert
Good, that ought to help a bit.
Paul
Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:
https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk
https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH
https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC
Robert
If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the >>>>>>>>>>> menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the >>>>>>>>>>> search box on the taskbar will be gone.
News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off >>>>>>>>>>> News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these >>>>>>>>>>> things bother you, as to whether you would care about details >>>>>>>>>>> like that.
*******
When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune, >>>>>>>>>>> the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
The other OSes don't work as well.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif
Paul
I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:
https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh
https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b
https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK
https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP
https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk
I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a >>>>>>>>>> HD-Tune link that's free?
https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx
then checked disk management
https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX
then downloaded macrium
https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6
here's the desktop
https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5
Robert
The free version is 2.55.
https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe
Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive. >>>>>>>>> Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).
*******
To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:
1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD
2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86). >>>>>>>>> You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.
3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use >>>>>>>>> it in Macrium.
The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>>>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>>>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or >>>>>>>>> place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
the picture over to the other machine.
It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD >>>>>>>>> and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do. >>>>>>>>> Unlike Windows 10.
If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
to tricks to do checks like this.
and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
it had no issues.
My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
So it was installed recently and it worked fine.
Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
should be very straightforward and I've done this before
and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?
Robert
The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it. >>>>>>> Click the "Compatibility" tab.
You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
Tick the box to turn on the mode.
In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.
Click Apply in the lower-right corner.
Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
apply a compatibility layer, making things
"look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.
This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
That's why an application still might not work right.
Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
have tried to install that one in Windows 10.
*******
After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
"main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
that later, once the install problem is overcome.
Paul
Success @!
You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User
https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK
https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC
The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,....... >>>>>>
If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like >>>>>> maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you >>>>>> want me to do something else?
Many thanks for all your good help,
Robert
At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
partition with the problem is C:
If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
text as it runs.
If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
(like five hours) and see what the scan shows.
Paul
Here's the HD-Tune scan:
https://postimg.cc/0MKFYgy0
then I ran the chkdsk /f C: with the Macrium Rescue CD
https://postimg.cc/VSdVwynP
In passing, when I use Solani on the 8500 it doesn't ask
for the User name and password but the 780 does. Why
the difference?
Robert
"44C"
Is that drive inside the PC or in the enclosure ?
That's a bit warm.
The Dell boxes don't necessarily move a lot of air for cooling.
Your CHKDSK was clean.
Paul
The drive is inside the computer. I cleaned it
the first time I opened it but maybe I need to
clean it again. The problem is all the perforated
holes and they are hard to get clean even with
the mini vac. They should make an attachment
for those.
That said, the computer is very quiet and runs
smooth and has lasted all these years with your
good help.
I switched hd's again and deleted the rogue user
mrimg before starting. Then completed a mrimg
on the 8500 Win 10.
https://postimg.cc/TyrRsX9g
Everything is looking good. and looks like we've
got everything done.
Unless you want me to do anything I guess were
finished.
In passing, do you think we'll still be able to message
after Google pulls the plug? I think I'm going to send
you a test message then just to check and make sure,
Many, many thanks for all your good help,
Robert
You're welcome.
Enjoy your new OS :-)
Paul
I don't know if you can see this post or not because Google isn't showing them.
It's as I feared,.... it's still 635 and it should be
637 and 638 after I post this.
Please let me know if you can see this.
Robert
It looks like we've lost our connection...
Robert
I'm just testing to see if we can still connect via SeaMonkey
after Google has pulled the plug. Please respond if you can
see this post.
You won't believe what happened,.. right after we had just
finished all our work on the computers,... my phone went out
and then the Internet, just as I was about to use it. Thankfully,
I got the Internet connection back in an hour, whew! It sure
gave me a scare after all our hard work. You can imagine how
I felt.
The phone is still out though with no dial tone. I had already
placed a online ticket for it before I lost the Internet and they
said it would be about a week before they could get someone
out here. This was the second time I've had phone problems.
The last time, whenever I tried to call out I got a busy signal.
I finally got my phone connection back today a week later,..
no one came out to check anything or called to say it was OK.
Same as before. It was on their end.
The only problem I've noticed on the computers is there's a lag
sometimes when opening pages and I have to reload it. I try to
keep only what I'm working on open.
I'll continue to update/run the scans and of course I'll continue
with the monthly mrimgs.
If I have any problems I'll let you know.
In passing, you mentioned there were allot of version's of chkdsk,
I thought chkdsk was a DOS command?
Thanks again for all your good help,
Robert
On 2/23/2024 4:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:
It looks like we've lost our connection...
Robert
Not really.
Paul
On 2/23/2024 4:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I don't know if you can see this post or not because Google isn't showing them.
It's as I feared,.... it's still 635 and it should be
637 and 638 after I post this.
Please let me know if you can see this.
Robert
The USENET side of things should be working.
Paul
On 2/23/2024 4:08 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I'm just testing to see if we can still connect via SeaMonkey
after Google has pulled the plug. Please respond if you can
see this post.
You won't believe what happened,.. right after we had just
finished all our work on the computers,... my phone went out
and then the Internet, just as I was about to use it. Thankfully,
I got the Internet connection back in an hour, whew! It sure
gave me a scare after all our hard work. You can imagine how
I felt.
The phone is still out though with no dial tone. I had already
placed a online ticket for it before I lost the Internet and they
said it would be about a week before they could get someone
out here. This was the second time I've had phone problems.
The last time, whenever I tried to call out I got a busy signal.
I finally got my phone connection back today a week later,..
no one came out to check anything or called to say it was OK.
Same as before. It was on their end.
The only problem I've noticed on the computers is there's a lag
sometimes when opening pages and I have to reload it. I try to
keep only what I'm working on open.
I'll continue to update/run the scans and of course I'll continue
with the monthly mrimgs.
If I have any problems I'll let you know.
In passing, you mentioned there were allot of version's of chkdsk,
I thought chkdsk was a DOS command?
Thanks again for all your good help,
Robert
Yes, USENET still works.
Sometimes, the slowness in web page rendering, can be caused by the
rate that DNS queries are being answered by the ISP. Since nobody
contacted you, it's pretty hard to get an idea what they fixed.
You would use Task Manager, to see if the CPU is all used up
by the browser.
There are a number of things that need to be "cleaned" on browsers.
I locate the "+++" DOM storage and clear the commercial ones.
I remove cookies.sqlite and webappsstore.sqlite (I can do that
because my browsers have no passwords stored in them). If the "webappsstore.sqlite" is over 10MB in size, that tends to slow down
a session and can make the interaction "laggy" when using the browser.
CHKDSK is a command line thing. Some of the commands have options,
that I haven't determined whether they do something useful or not.
Usually selecting the "fix" option is enough by itself. Except
in cases where, after a "fix", a re-scan indicates there is still
trouble present. That's when the additional options may be
necessary.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 2/23/2024 4:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:
It looks like we've lost our connection...
Robert
Not really.
Paul
I just happened to check to see if there were any new messages on SeaMonkey,.....
So is this is how we do it via SeaMOnkey and not Google?
Robert
On 2/23/2024 11:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/23/2024 4:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:
It looks like we've lost our connection...
Robert
Not really.
Paul
I just happened to check to see if there were any new messages on SeaMonkey,.....
So is this is how we do it via SeaMOnkey and not Google?
Robert
As long as you have a server (and an account for ones with an account),
you can connect.
Paul
On 2/23/2024 11:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/23/2024 4:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:
It looks like we've lost our connection...
Robert
Not really.
Paul
I just happened to check to see if there were any new messages on SeaMonkey,.....
So is this is how we do it via SeaMOnkey and not Google?
Robert
As long as you have a server (and an account for ones with an account),
you can connect.
Paul
On 2/23/2024 11:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/23/2024 4:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:
It looks like we've lost our connection...
Robert
Not really.
Paul
I just happened to check to see if there were any new messages on SeaMonkey,.....
So is this is how we do it via SeaMOnkey and not Google?
Robert
As long as you have a server (and an account for ones with an account),
you can connect.
Paul
On 2/23/2024 11:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 2/23/2024 4:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:
It looks like we've lost our connection...
Robert
Not really.
Paul
I just happened to check to see if there were any new messages on SeaMonkey,.....
So is this is how we do it via SeaMOnkey and not Google?
Robert
As long as you have a server (and an account for ones with an account),
you can connect.
Paul
Here's the 780 mrimg:
https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB
Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
before I remembered to take a pic.
https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm
Robert
On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here's the 780 mrimg:
https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB
Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
before I remembered to take a pic.
https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm
Robert
The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
better than USB2 rates.
Paul
On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here's the 780 mrimg:
https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB
Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
before I remembered to take a pic.
https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm
Robert
The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
better than USB2 rates.
Paul
On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here's the 780 mrimg:
https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB
Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
before I remembered to take a pic.
https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm
Robert
The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
better than USB2 rates.
Paul
On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here's the 780 mrimg:
https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB
Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
before I remembered to take a pic.
https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm
Robert
The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
better than USB2 rates.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here's the 780 mrimg:
https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB
Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
before I remembered to take a pic.
https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm
Robert
The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
better than USB2 rates.
Paul
Although the computers seem fine and as I say they've
lasted all these years is there anything we can do
to lower the temp?
I think you're right Dell cases weren't well designed
for airflow.
Aside from the difference in HD-Tune on both computers
all seems fine. I checked and they both had the same
version 2.55
Robert
On 3/3/2024 3:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here's the 780 mrimg:
https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB
Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
before I remembered to take a pic.
https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm
Robert
The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
better than USB2 rates.
Paul
Although the computers seem fine and as I say they've
lasted all these years is there anything we can do
to lower the temp?
I think you're right Dell cases weren't well designed
for airflow.
Aside from the difference in HD-Tune on both computers
all seems fine. I checked and they both had the same
version 2.55
Robert
USB does not necessarily have passthru for SMART data.
This causes the temperature and the health table to go missing.
And getting a 200MB/sec transfer rate, in one of your pictures,
is very good. I have very few hard drives that do that well.
The drives in my disk pile, getting 150MB/sec is doing well.
You can get higher rates, but the cost of the hard drive is
prohibitive. At one time, only a 15K RPM drive could do 300MB/sec.
But there are a few 7200RPM ones now, getting pretty close to 300MB/sec.
And really, you just want the backup to run, it doesn't have to be
fancy. Macrium will only do around 350MB/sec or so, anyway. Presumably
the checksum it calculates, slows it down. Even if you had two
NVMe at 14000MB/sec, the Macrium would still only run at 350.
It's not clear if the other backup programs, will run faster
(AOMEI or Easeus).
Maybe the Windows Backup would beat them, as I don't think the
Windows Backup has a checksum protection.
Paul
On 3/3/2024 3:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here's the 780 mrimg:
https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB
Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
before I remembered to take a pic.
https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm
Robert
The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
better than USB2 rates.
Paul
Although the computers seem fine and as I say they've
lasted all these years is there anything we can do
to lower the temp?
I think you're right Dell cases weren't well designed
for airflow.
Aside from the difference in HD-Tune on both computers
all seems fine. I checked and they both had the same
version 2.55
Robert
USB does not necessarily have passthru for SMART data.
This causes the temperature and the health table to go missing.
And getting a 200MB/sec transfer rate, in one of your pictures,
is very good. I have very few hard drives that do that well.
The drives in my disk pile, getting 150MB/sec is doing well.
You can get higher rates, but the cost of the hard drive is
prohibitive. At one time, only a 15K RPM drive could do 300MB/sec.
But there are a few 7200RPM ones now, getting pretty close to 300MB/sec.
And really, you just want the backup to run, it doesn't have to be
fancy. Macrium will only do around 350MB/sec or so, anyway. Presumably
the checksum it calculates, slows it down. Even if you had two
NVMe at 14000MB/sec, the Macrium would still only run at 350.
It's not clear if the other backup programs, will run faster
(AOMEI or Easeus).
Maybe the Windows Backup would beat them, as I don't think the
Windows Backup has a checksum protection.
Paul
On 3/3/2024 3:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here's the 780 mrimg:
https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB
Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
before I remembered to take a pic.
https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm
Robert
The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
better than USB2 rates.
Paul
Although the computers seem fine and as I say they've
lasted all these years is there anything we can do
to lower the temp?
I think you're right Dell cases weren't well designed
for airflow.
Aside from the difference in HD-Tune on both computers
all seems fine. I checked and they both had the same
version 2.55
Robert
USB does not necessarily have passthru for SMART data.
This causes the temperature and the health table to go missing.
And getting a 200MB/sec transfer rate, in one of your pictures,
is very good. I have very few hard drives that do that well.
The drives in my disk pile, getting 150MB/sec is doing well.
You can get higher rates, but the cost of the hard drive is
prohibitive. At one time, only a 15K RPM drive could do 300MB/sec.
But there are a few 7200RPM ones now, getting pretty close to 300MB/sec.
And really, you just want the backup to run, it doesn't have to be
fancy. Macrium will only do around 350MB/sec or so, anyway. Presumably
the checksum it calculates, slows it down. Even if you had two
NVMe at 14000MB/sec, the Macrium would still only run at 350.
It's not clear if the other backup programs, will run faster
(AOMEI or Easeus).
Maybe the Windows Backup would beat them, as I don't think the
Windows Backup has a checksum protection.
Paul
On 3/3/2024 3:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Here's the 780 mrimg:
https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB
Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
before I remembered to take a pic.
https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm
Robert
The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
better than USB2 rates.
Paul
Although the computers seem fine and as I say they've
lasted all these years is there anything we can do
to lower the temp?
I think you're right Dell cases weren't well designed
for airflow.
Aside from the difference in HD-Tune on both computers
all seems fine. I checked and they both had the same
version 2.55
Robert
USB does not necessarily have passthru for SMART data.
This causes the temperature and the health table to go missing.
And getting a 200MB/sec transfer rate, in one of your pictures,
is very good. I have very few hard drives that do that well.
The drives in my disk pile, getting 150MB/sec is doing well.
You can get higher rates, but the cost of the hard drive is
prohibitive. At one time, only a 15K RPM drive could do 300MB/sec.
But there are a few 7200RPM ones now, getting pretty close to 300MB/sec.
And really, you just want the backup to run, it doesn't have to be
fancy. Macrium will only do around 350MB/sec or so, anyway. Presumably
the checksum it calculates, slows it down. Even if you had two
NVMe at 14000MB/sec, the Macrium would still only run at 350.
It's not clear if the other backup programs, will run faster
(AOMEI or Easeus).
Maybe the Windows Backup would beat them, as I don't think the
Windows Backup has a checksum protection.
Paul
Paul, are you there?
I just want to be assured in case I have a problem.
All things are working OK but I need to keep posting
on Solani in order to keep it active otherwise I'll loose
it.
So once a month after I do my mrimgs I'll post on
here with both servers. Usually, the 1st of the month.
If I have a problem I'll alert you.
Robert
On 4/9/2024 5:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul, are you there?
I just want to be assured in case I have a problem.
All things are working OK but I need to keep posting
on Solani in order to keep it active otherwise I'll loose
it.
So once a month after I do my mrimgs I'll post on
here with both servers. Usually, the 1st of the month.
If I have a problem I'll alert you.
Robert
Yes, I check the server occasionally.
Paul
On 4/9/2024 5:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul, are you there?
I just want to be assured in case I have a problem.
All things are working OK but I need to keep posting
on Solani in order to keep it active otherwise I'll loose
it.
So once a month after I do my mrimgs I'll post on
here with both servers. Usually, the 1st of the month.
If I have a problem I'll alert you.
Robert
Yes, I check the server occasionally.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 4/9/2024 5:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul, are you there?
I just want to be assured in case I have a problem.
All things are working OK but I need to keep posting
on Solani in order to keep it active otherwise I'll loose
it.
So once a month after I do my mrimgs I'll post on
here with both servers. Usually, the 1st of the month.
If I have a problem I'll alert you.
Robert
Yes, I check the server occasionally.
Paul
I don't know if you've noticed but recently
YouTube has changed its layout where the
comments are on the right where videos use
to be and the videos are below where the
comments use to be.
I don't have a YouTube Account but is there
some way of getting my old YouTube layout
back?
I wish they would leave things alone.
Thanks,
Robert
On 4/11/2024 4:59 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 4/9/2024 5:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul, are you there?
I just want to be assured in case I have a problem.
All things are working OK but I need to keep posting
on Solani in order to keep it active otherwise I'll loose
it.
So once a month after I do my mrimgs I'll post on
here with both servers. Usually, the 1st of the month.
If I have a problem I'll alert you.
Robert
Yes, I check the server occasionally.
Paul
I don't know if you've noticed but recently
YouTube has changed its layout where the
comments are on the right where videos use
to be and the videos are below where the
comments use to be.
I don't have a YouTube Account but is there
some way of getting my old YouTube layout
back?
I wish they would leave things alone.
Thanks,
Robert
The layout I see, is video at the top left,
alternative videos on the right sidebar, and
comments are on the left below the feature video.
As seen on Firefox.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/kMpLt9BB/fryer.gif
That's shot on Linux, because I can make the
screen a bit larger, and then the webpage may
adjust the layout a bit. The print to PDF is
limited to Tabloid sized pages. The screen dump
I can do there, can be larger. I can make it so
large, it can't be posted on postimage (10000x10000 limit).
The layout could be related to the CSS the
web page uses (a downloaded piece of info), or
it can be based on HTML or Javascript.
Tampermonkey, Greasemonkey, Greasy Fork, these
are sites or tools that allow providing programmatic
edits to web pages. You can change the appearance
of web pages. I believe I got a small change to work
once, but it took me a while. Don't look at this
expecting to get something to work, basically look
at the titles and see how ambitious people are.
https://greasyfork.org/en/scripts/by-site/youtube.com?page=7
There is no reason for any of those to be maintained,
and since the Youtube web pages downloaded can be altered
on a daily basis, it's like expecting Youtube Downloader
to work all the time.
Paul
On 4/11/2024 4:59 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 4/9/2024 5:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul, are you there?
I just want to be assured in case I have a problem.
All things are working OK but I need to keep posting
on Solani in order to keep it active otherwise I'll loose
it.
So once a month after I do my mrimgs I'll post on
here with both servers. Usually, the 1st of the month.
If I have a problem I'll alert you.
Robert
Yes, I check the server occasionally.
Paul
I don't know if you've noticed but recently
YouTube has changed its layout where the
comments are on the right where videos use
to be and the videos are below where the
comments use to be.
I don't have a YouTube Account but is there
some way of getting my old YouTube layout
back?
I wish they would leave things alone.
Thanks,
Robert
The layout I see, is video at the top left,
alternative videos on the right sidebar, and
comments are on the left below the feature video.
As seen on Firefox.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/kMpLt9BB/fryer.gif
That's shot on Linux, because I can make the
screen a bit larger, and then the webpage may
adjust the layout a bit. The print to PDF is
limited to Tabloid sized pages. The screen dump
I can do there, can be larger. I can make it so
large, it can't be posted on postimage (10000x10000 limit).
The layout could be related to the CSS the
web page uses (a downloaded piece of info), or
it can be based on HTML or Javascript.
Tampermonkey, Greasemonkey, Greasy Fork, these
are sites or tools that allow providing programmatic
edits to web pages. You can change the appearance
of web pages. I believe I got a small change to work
once, but it took me a while. Don't look at this
expecting to get something to work, basically look
at the titles and see how ambitious people are.
https://greasyfork.org/en/scripts/by-site/youtube.com?page=7
There is no reason for any of those to be maintained,
and since the Youtube web pages downloaded can be altered
on a daily basis, it's like expecting Youtube Downloader
to work all the time.
Paul
On 4/11/2024 4:59 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 4/9/2024 5:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul, are you there?
I just want to be assured in case I have a problem.
All things are working OK but I need to keep posting
on Solani in order to keep it active otherwise I'll loose
it.
So once a month after I do my mrimgs I'll post on
here with both servers. Usually, the 1st of the month.
If I have a problem I'll alert you.
Robert
Yes, I check the server occasionally.
Paul
I don't know if you've noticed but recently
YouTube has changed its layout where the
comments are on the right where videos use
to be and the videos are below where the
comments use to be.
I don't have a YouTube Account but is there
some way of getting my old YouTube layout
back?
I wish they would leave things alone.
Thanks,
Robert
The layout I see, is video at the top left,
alternative videos on the right sidebar, and
comments are on the left below the feature video.
As seen on Firefox.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/kMpLt9BB/fryer.gif
That's shot on Linux, because I can make the
screen a bit larger, and then the webpage may
adjust the layout a bit. The print to PDF is
limited to Tabloid sized pages. The screen dump
I can do there, can be larger. I can make it so
large, it can't be posted on postimage (10000x10000 limit).
The layout could be related to the CSS the
web page uses (a downloaded piece of info), or
it can be based on HTML or Javascript.
Tampermonkey, Greasemonkey, Greasy Fork, these
are sites or tools that allow providing programmatic
edits to web pages. You can change the appearance
of web pages. I believe I got a small change to work
once, but it took me a while. Don't look at this
expecting to get something to work, basically look
at the titles and see how ambitious people are.
https://greasyfork.org/en/scripts/by-site/youtube.com?page=7
There is no reason for any of those to be maintained,
and since the Youtube web pages downloaded can be altered
on a daily basis, it's like expecting Youtube Downloader
to work all the time.
Paul
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
I have a question regarding my SD cards.
I move the right protect tab up so that
I can cut/ paste files to the computer
but it doesn't take and only shows copy.
I have to move the tab down then back up
several times before I get it to work after
inserting it into the computer and the
cut option appears. This was happening with
one card so I switched cards but with the
same result.
I don't move it back down afterwards yet
each time I have to go through this and
these are fairly new cards.
I have more SD cards but I'm just wondering
why won't the tab when moved up remove
the write protect and stay that way?
I was thinking maybe when I slide it in the
slot it's pushing the tab downward?
Thanks,
Robert
_
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
I have a question regarding my SD cards.
I move the right protect tab up so that
I can cut/ paste files to the computer
but it doesn't take and only shows copy.
I have to move the tab down then back up
several times before I get it to work after
inserting it into the computer and the
cut option appears. This was happening with
one card so I switched cards but with the
same result.
I don't move it back down afterwards yet
each time I have to go through this and
these are fairly new cards.
I have more SD cards but I'm just wondering
why won't the tab when moved up remove
the write protect and stay that way?
I was thinking maybe when I slide it in the
slot it's pushing the tab downward?
Thanks,
Robert
_
I used the Startech adaptor and was able to
cut/paste the files. Maybe I'll use that from
now on but still doesn't explain why I couldn't
do it in the first place with the 8500 SD port.
Robert
-
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
Please respond if you're OK.
Robert
On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
Please respond if you're OK.
Robert
I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
and catch up.
Paul
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
I have a question regarding my SD cards.
I move the right protect tab up so that
I can cut/ paste files to the computer
but it doesn't take and only shows copy.
I have to move the tab down then back up
several times before I get it to work after
inserting it into the computer and the
cut option appears. This was happening with
one card so I switched cards but with the
same result.
I don't move it back down afterwards yet
each time I have to go through this and
these are fairly new cards.
I have more SD cards but I'm just wondering
why won't the tab when moved up remove
the write protect and stay that way?
I was thinking maybe when I slide it in the
slot it's pushing the tab downward?
Thanks,
Robert
I used the Startech adaptor and was able to
cut/paste the files. Maybe I'll use that from
now on but still doesn't explain why I couldn't
do it in the first place with the 8500 SD port.
Robert
I see that YouTube has switched it's layout again
in favor of the comments on the right side margin
https://postimg.cc/RqRDBscy
I don't think this is a test, so is there some way to
change it back so the comments are below?
Thanks,
Robert
This concerns the 8500,.... I think I had too many screens open
and the computer hung up,.. then it started to generate a low hum.
I ended up having to power it off and then waited 30 seconds before
powering it back on and came up with the usual screen that it did not
power off correctly and I selected normal start- up but then it gave me
a screen that said one of my disk's wasn't in sync and it wanted to do a chkdsk so I let it. I have pics if you want to see but the computer came
back up and all seems OK.
Robert
On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
Please respond if you're OK.
Robert
I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
and catch up.
Paul
On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
Please respond if you're OK.
Robert
I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
and catch up.
Paul
I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".
Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.
Paul
On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
Please respond if you're OK.
Robert
I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
and catch up.
Paul
I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".
Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
Please respond if you're OK.
Robert
I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
and catch up.
Paul
I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".
Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.
Paul
I ran the mrimgs and HD-Tune on both computers,. the only thing of note
is the SD port no longer shows the cut/copy option so I switched to
using the adapter. Also YouTube switched their comments back again to underneath the videos.
The computers seem fine and just humming along.....
780 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/1gG3m41g
780 HD-Tune
https://postimg.cc/yWY8KVQd
8500 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/sMSVm1Xn
8500 HD-Tune
https://postimg.cc/kRBCbgzv
Robert
_
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
Please respond if you're OK.
Robert
I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
and catch up.
Paul
I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".
Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.
Paul
I ran the mrimgs and HD-Tune on both computers,. the only thing of note is the SD port no longer shows the cut/copy option so I switched to using the adapter. Also YouTube switched their comments back again to underneath the videos.
The computers seem fine and just humming along.....
780 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/1gG3m41g
780 HD-Tune
https://postimg.cc/yWY8KVQd
8500 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/sMSVm1Xn
8500 HD-Tune
https://postimg.cc/kRBCbgzv
Robert
_
I also noticed that Malwarebytes recently changed
their screen/format so that now it updates during
the scan.
Also, I meant the cut/paste option regarding the
SD port.
Robert
On 7/3/2024 1:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
Please respond if you're OK.
Robert
I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
and catch up.
Paul
I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".
Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.
Paul
I ran the mrimgs and HD-Tune on both computers,. the only thing of note is the SD port no longer shows the cut/copy option so I switched to using the adapter. Also YouTube switched their comments back again to underneath the videos.
The computers seem fine and just humming along.....
780 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/1gG3m41g
780 HD-Tune
https://postimg.cc/yWY8KVQd
8500 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/sMSVm1Xn
8500 HD-Tune
https://postimg.cc/kRBCbgzv
Robert
_
I also noticed that Malwarebytes recently changed
their screen/format so that now it updates during
the scan.
Also, I meant the cut/paste option regarding the
SD port.
Robert
There appears to be more than one way for an Secure Digital card
to be write protected.
https://recoverit.wondershare.com/partition-tips/remove-write-protection-on-sd-cards.html
Now, I don't believe all of those.
The one involving the Registry, is "too generic" to be believable.
The Registry setting would have to be specific for one device to be effective.
You cannot run Windows for very long, if all storage devices go
read-only. Windows must be able to write to C: to survive.
It will not tolerate being unable to write anywhere.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 7/3/2024 1:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
Please respond if you're OK.
Robert
I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
and catch up.
Paul
I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".
Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.
Paul
I ran the mrimgs and HD-Tune on both computers,. the only thing of note is the SD port no longer shows the cut/copy option so I switched to using the adapter. Also YouTube switched their comments back again to underneath the videos.
The computers seem fine and just humming along.....
780 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/1gG3m41g
780 HD-Tune
https://postimg.cc/yWY8KVQd
8500 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/sMSVm1Xn
8500 HD-Tune
https://postimg.cc/kRBCbgzv
Robert
I also noticed that Malwarebytes recently changed
their screen/format so that now it updates during
the scan.
Also, I meant the cut/paste option regarding the
SD port.
Robert
There appears to be more than one way for an Secure Digital card
to be write protected.
https://recoverit.wondershare.com/partition-tips/remove-write-protection-on-sd-cards.html
Now, I don't believe all of those.
The one involving the Registry, is "too generic" to be believable.
The Registry setting would have to be specific for one device to be effective.
You cannot run Windows for very long, if all storage devices go
read-only. Windows must be able to write to C: to survive.
It will not tolerate being unable to write anywhere.
Paul
Agreed, but allot to read through. It seems its not uncommon for
SD's to become corrupted? I also noticed that when I use the SD
card only the computer sometimes doesn't see it but with the adaptor
it always does. Maybe because it's using a USB port instead?
Here's my SD card options; the first is with the SD card only,
you can see if only offers the copy option
https://postimg.cc/SXKBzdRY
the second picture is using the SD card with adapter and shows cut
and copy options. The SD port use to have both options but for some
reason the cut option no longer appears.
https://postimg.cc/5jG8c2Lh
Robert
On 7/7/2024 7:38 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 7/3/2024 1:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
Please respond if you're OK.
Robert
I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
and catch up.
Paul
I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".
Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.
Paul
I ran the mrimgs and HD-Tune on both computers,. the only thing of note is the SD port no longer shows the cut/copy option so I switched to using the adapter. Also YouTube switched their comments back again to underneath the videos.
The computers seem fine and just humming along.....
780 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/1gG3m41g
780 HD-Tune
https://postimg.cc/yWY8KVQd
8500 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/sMSVm1Xn
8500 HD-Tune
https://postimg.cc/kRBCbgzv
Robert
I also noticed that Malwarebytes recently changed
their screen/format so that now it updates during
the scan.
Also, I meant the cut/paste option regarding the
SD port.
Robert
There appears to be more than one way for an Secure Digital card
to be write protected.
https://recoverit.wondershare.com/partition-tips/remove-write-protection-on-sd-cards.html
Now, I don't believe all of those.
The one involving the Registry, is "too generic" to be believable.
The Registry setting would have to be specific for one device to be effective.
You cannot run Windows for very long, if all storage devices go
read-only. Windows must be able to write to C: to survive.
It will not tolerate being unable to write anywhere.
Paul
Agreed, but allot to read through. It seems its not uncommon for
SD's to become corrupted? I also noticed that when I use the SD
card only the computer sometimes doesn't see it but with the adaptor
it always does. Maybe because it's using a USB port instead?
Here's my SD card options; the first is with the SD card only,
you can see if only offers the copy option
https://postimg.cc/SXKBzdRY
the second picture is using the SD card with adapter and shows cut
and copy options. The SD port use to have both options but for some
reason the cut option no longer appears.
https://postimg.cc/5jG8c2Lh
Robert
And they both say removable disk.
It could be some sort of registry issue, or, it could
be a pin not making contact somewhere. But for it to be
registry, there would need to be a Read-only bit for
a specific device instance in ENUM or something.
Paul
On 7/7/2024 7:38 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 7/3/2024 1:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
got too many complaints with the comments on
the side.
Robert
Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.
Paul
Yes, they said they were testing.
This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
the right turn signal started blinking fast
which I understand means I need to change
the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
blinks fast,.. what do you think?
Robert
The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
other bulb which is no longer blinking.
The fast blinking bulb is the good one.
The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
that the other bulb in the circuit (at
the other end of the car) has stopped
functioning.
You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
verify both ends of the car. It should be
apparent at that point (as long as only one
bulb has burned out), that something isn't
right in one corner of the car. And that's where
your spare bulb will be going.
Paul
Please respond if you're OK.
Robert
I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
and catch up.
Paul
I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".
Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.
Paul
I ran the mrimgs and HD-Tune on both computers,. the only thing of note is the SD port no longer shows the cut/copy option so I switched to using the adapter. Also YouTube switched their comments back again to underneath the videos.
The computers seem fine and just humming along.....
780 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/1gG3m41g
780 HD-Tune
https://postimg.cc/yWY8KVQd
8500 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/sMSVm1Xn
8500 HD-Tune
https://postimg.cc/kRBCbgzv
Robert
I also noticed that Malwarebytes recently changed
their screen/format so that now it updates during
the scan.
Also, I meant the cut/paste option regarding the
SD port.
Robert
There appears to be more than one way for an Secure Digital card
to be write protected.
https://recoverit.wondershare.com/partition-tips/remove-write-protection-on-sd-cards.html
Now, I don't believe all of those.
The one involving the Registry, is "too generic" to be believable.
The Registry setting would have to be specific for one device to be effective.
You cannot run Windows for very long, if all storage devices go
read-only. Windows must be able to write to C: to survive.
It will not tolerate being unable to write anywhere.
Paul
Agreed, but allot to read through. It seems its not uncommon for
SD's to become corrupted? I also noticed that when I use the SD
card only the computer sometimes doesn't see it but with the adaptor
it always does. Maybe because it's using a USB port instead?
Here's my SD card options; the first is with the SD card only,
you can see if only offers the copy option
https://postimg.cc/SXKBzdRY
the second picture is using the SD card with adapter and shows cut
and copy options. The SD port use to have both options but for some
reason the cut option no longer appears.
https://postimg.cc/5jG8c2Lh
Robert
And they both say removable disk.
It could be some sort of registry issue, or, it could
be a pin not making contact somewhere. But for it to be
registry, there would need to be a Read-only bit for
a specific device instance in ENUM or something.
Paul
I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?
https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj
Thanks,
Robert
On 7/10/2024 1:27 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?
https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj
Thanks,
Robert
Aren't those subscription features ?
Do you have a paid version, or are you just
using on-demand scanning ?
Perhaps ticking one of those boxes, will start a
"how about paying for a subscription" window ???
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 7/10/2024 1:27 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?
https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj
Thanks,
Robert
Aren't those subscription features ?
Do you have a paid version, or are you just
using on-demand scanning ?
Perhaps ticking one of those boxes, will start a
"how about paying for a subscription" window ???
I'm using the free version.
So forget about them?
Robert
On 7/15/2024 5:39 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 7/10/2024 1:27 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?
https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj
Thanks,
Robert
Aren't those subscription features ?
Do you have a paid version, or are you just
using on-demand scanning ?
Perhaps ticking one of those boxes, will start a
"how about paying for a subscription" window ???
I'm using the free version.
So forget about them?
Robert
I'm suspicious by nature.
Such an offering looks like "advertising" :-)
Paul
On 7/15/2024 5:39 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 7/10/2024 1:27 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?
https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj
Thanks,
Robert
Aren't those subscription features ?
Do you have a paid version, or are you just
using on-demand scanning ?
Perhaps ticking one of those boxes, will start a
"how about paying for a subscription" window ???
I'm using the free version.
So forget about them?
Robert
I'm suspicious by nature.
Such an offering looks like "advertising" :-)
Paul
On 7/15/2024 5:39 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 7/10/2024 1:27 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?
https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj
Thanks,
Robert
Aren't those subscription features ?
Do you have a paid version, or are you just
using on-demand scanning ?
Perhaps ticking one of those boxes, will start a
"how about paying for a subscription" window ???
I'm using the free version.
So forget about them?
Robert
I'm suspicious by nature.
Such an offering looks like "advertising" :-)
Paul
Paul wrote:
On 7/15/2024 5:39 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 7/10/2024 1:27 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?
https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj
Thanks,
Robert
Aren't those subscription features ?
Do you have a paid version, or are you just
using on-demand scanning ?
Perhaps ticking one of those boxes, will start a
"how about paying for a subscription" window ???
I'm using the free version.
So forget about them?
Robert
I'm suspicious by nature.
Such an offering looks like "advertising" :-)
Paul
I wanted to tell you about something that happened
today because I thought you might be interested.
I had opened Microsoft Word and started typing but
no letters appeared. This had happened once before
so I restarted the computer but the same thing happened.
So I unplugged the keyboard and put it in a new port
and it worked. So that one port went bad all on its own ?
Robert
On Sat, 7/20/2024 2:06 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 7/15/2024 5:39 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On 7/10/2024 1:27 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?
https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj
Thanks,
Robert
Aren't those subscription features ?
Do you have a paid version, or are you just
using on-demand scanning ?
Perhaps ticking one of those boxes, will start a
"how about paying for a subscription" window ???
I'm using the free version.
So forget about them?
Robert
I'm suspicious by nature.
Such an offering looks like "advertising" :-)
Paul
I wanted to tell you about something that happened
today because I thought you might be interested.
I had opened Microsoft Word and started typing but
no letters appeared. This had happened once before
so I restarted the computer but the same thing happened.
So I unplugged the keyboard and put it in a new port
and it worked. So that one port went bad all on its own ?
Robert
This could be a problem with the operating system.
Normally, USB items have serial numbers, and when you
move the USB keyboard from one port to another, it uses
the same data collection in the Registry to control it.
When items don't have serial numbers, every port has
a separate enumeration when the device is plugged in.
This allows the device to "work" on another port.
It could be there is some problem with the fuse on the port.
Some hardware faults, really need the power to be turned off.
This happens when a port goes into latchup.
USB doesn't have a discrete RESET signal. Neither does
SATA for that matter, and SATA has its share of problems.
When a SATA hard drive goes crazy, it may stop responding.
It can take power removal to guarantee it recovers. Doing
a reboot is not enough (like if the crazy drive was your backup drive).
And USB ports do outright die on occasion. Some NEC USB2 cards
had that problem, and a port or two could be blown.
Intel USB ports, some of them have been rated for 5kV of ESD.
Which is pretty good. A chip where nobody particularly cared,
the rating is 1kV.
Continue with your testing and see whether the new port
behaves the same (keyboard dozes off on you). It might even
be the keyboard that has an electronics problem.
Paul
I actually was more concerned about you than the port
because you usually comment on something like that.
I actually haven't done any testing or to see if I plugged
it back in if it would work. I just tried it (with the power on)
and it works. I know I should have turned off the power first
and then do it. Sorry, won't happen again.
I have noticed a certain lag on websites sometimes where it takes
forever to load a news program or YouTube video and I have
to refresh it to get it to load. Also to even login sometimes I have
to click retry several times. I attribute that to the websites.
Otherwise the computer are OK.
I still do daily scans and monthly mrimgs.
Robert
On Thu, 8/1/2024 4:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I actually was more concerned about you than the port
because you usually comment on something like that.
I actually haven't done any testing or to see if I plugged
it back in if it would work. I just tried it (with the power on)
and it works. I know I should have turned off the power first
and then do it. Sorry, won't happen again.
I have noticed a certain lag on websites sometimes where it takes
forever to load a news program or YouTube video and I have
to refresh it to get it to load. Also to even login sometimes I have
to click retry several times. I attribute that to the websites.
Otherwise the computer are OK.
I still do daily scans and monthly mrimgs.
Robert
USB is "power-safe". You can plug and unplug with
power applied.
PS/2 is different in this regard.
PS/2 isn't used as much now (on new computers).
For USB, you want storage operations to be complete,
which is why "Safely Remove" exists. A keyboard is
not a storage device, which is why it should
not need "Safely Remove".
*******
Firefox has multiple processes. When you open extra
tabs in a window, the tabs can be sharing one Firefox process.
If you open a new window, that may start yet-more Firefox processes.
Try opening a new window in Firefox, then open a URL in it.
Maybe via process isolation, the new process will not be
influenced by activities in other Firefox windows.
But with Windows OS, even if you have a ton of CPU cores,
there is no scaling effect. It can still be slow. It
is because the machine is not making good usage of
what you've given it. And it has been like this for a
while, so I don't expect it will ever change.
Maybe Firefox uses pthreads. Is pthreads good ? Dunno.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 8/1/2024 4:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I actually was more concerned about you than the port
because you usually comment on something like that.
I actually haven't done any testing or to see if I plugged
it back in if it would work. I just tried it (with the power on)
and it works. I know I should have turned off the power first
and then do it. Sorry, won't happen again.
I have noticed a certain lag on websites sometimes where it takes
forever to load a news program or YouTube video and I have
to refresh it to get it to load. Also to even login sometimes I have
to click retry several times. I attribute that to the websites.
Otherwise the computer are OK.
I still do daily scans and monthly mrimgs.
Robert
USB is "power-safe". You can plug and unplug with
power applied.
PS/2 is different in this regard.
PS/2 isn't used as much now (on new computers).
For USB, you want storage operations to be complete,
which is why "Safely Remove" exists. A keyboard is
not a storage device, which is why it should
not need "Safely Remove".
*******
Firefox has multiple processes. When you open extra
tabs in a window, the tabs can be sharing one Firefox process.
If you open a new window, that may start yet-more Firefox processes.
Try opening a new window in Firefox, then open a URL in it.
Maybe via process isolation, the new process will not be
influenced by activities in other Firefox windows.
But with Windows OS, even if you have a ton of CPU cores,
there is no scaling effect. It can still be slow. It
is because the machine is not making good usage of
what you've given it. And it has been like this for a
while, so I don't expect it will ever change.
Maybe Firefox uses pthreads. Is pthreads good ? Dunno.
Paul
I try to open only what I'm using vs multiple
applications. I use to leave Word, Paintbrush
and Dell Imaging all open but not anymore.
I've been going through allot lately; as an example,
I've spent an entire week trying to create a new VA
Account with ID.me as per the VA recommendation
because the old login is going to be discontinued
but they still can't verify me because they require
a cell phone with text and photo capability which I
don't have.
btw the VA is one of the worst where I constantly loose
my connection and have to click retry/resend 2 or 3 times
just to login. However, whenever I try to login it starts
the process all over and is asking for information I've
already given.
So now I can't login to my account to view appointments,
order medication and I know I have a message waiting
because Yahoo notified me.
Robert
On Sat, 8/3/2024 1:22 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 8/1/2024 4:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I actually was more concerned about you than the port
because you usually comment on something like that.
I actually haven't done any testing or to see if I plugged
it back in if it would work. I just tried it (with the power on)
and it works. I know I should have turned off the power first
and then do it. Sorry, won't happen again.
I have noticed a certain lag on websites sometimes where it takes
forever to load a news program or YouTube video and I have
to refresh it to get it to load. Also to even login sometimes I have
to click retry several times. I attribute that to the websites.
Otherwise the computer are OK.
I still do daily scans and monthly mrimgs.
Robert
USB is "power-safe". You can plug and unplug with
power applied.
PS/2 is different in this regard.
PS/2 isn't used as much now (on new computers).
For USB, you want storage operations to be complete,
which is why "Safely Remove" exists. A keyboard is
not a storage device, which is why it should
not need "Safely Remove".
*******
Firefox has multiple processes. When you open extra
tabs in a window, the tabs can be sharing one Firefox process.
If you open a new window, that may start yet-more Firefox processes.
Try opening a new window in Firefox, then open a URL in it.
Maybe via process isolation, the new process will not be
influenced by activities in other Firefox windows.
But with Windows OS, even if you have a ton of CPU cores,
there is no scaling effect. It can still be slow. It
is because the machine is not making good usage of
what you've given it. And it has been like this for a
while, so I don't expect it will ever change.
Maybe Firefox uses pthreads. Is pthreads good ? Dunno.
Paul
I try to open only what I'm using vs multiple
applications. I use to leave Word, Paintbrush
and Dell Imaging all open but not anymore.
I've been going through allot lately; as an example,
I've spent an entire week trying to create a new VA
Account with ID.me as per the VA recommendation
because the old login is going to be discontinued
but they still can't verify me because they require
a cell phone with text and photo capability which I
don't have.
btw the VA is one of the worst where I constantly loose
my connection and have to click retry/resend 2 or 3 times
just to login. However, whenever I try to login it starts
the process all over and is asking for information I've
already given.
So now I can't login to my account to view appointments,
order medication and I know I have a message waiting
because Yahoo notified me.
Robert
There is another kind of MFA.
This is an advertisement for it, from the people who make the
plugin FIDO2 keys. With the VA, I don't know how easy it will be,
to get the details necessary to configure that.
https://fidoalliance.org/u-s-general-services-administrations-rollout-of-fido2-on-login-gov/
"They are prompted to either insert a hardware security key into their computer
and touch it or, if their device has a supported built-in authenticator, be prompted
to use it by looking into the camera or touching a biometric sensor (for two examples)."
What OS you use, may determine how difficult it is to set up.
Windows 10 has Windows Hello, which may provide the second
feature the thing needs.
It's up to the VA to decide what hardware they want you to use.
While I located one FIDO2 key with a fingerprint reader built
in (you touch the fingerprint area, to cause the device to
send authentication to the VA), that one is out of stock.
Maybe it is actually an older device. I can't find any more info.
With FIDO2 keys:
1) The ones with the cheesy plastic connector, you could fit a
short extension cable to it. The connector on the short extension
is intended to take the wear and tear.
2) You use two FIDO2 keys, and register both of them. You lock up
the second one. The second one, is for when the first one wears out.
The various authenticator methods are not all that good, so it's up
to the VA to decide what the authenticator shall be (Windows Hello facial recognition camera, or a fingerprint button). While you can also use
a PIN (doesn't have to be digits, can be text), that's not really
all that good either.
You can lock up both your FIDO2 devices, just not in the same safe.
Paul
On Sat, 8/3/2024 1:22 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 8/1/2024 4:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I actually was more concerned about you than the port
because you usually comment on something like that.
I actually haven't done any testing or to see if I plugged
it back in if it would work. I just tried it (with the power on)
and it works. I know I should have turned off the power first
and then do it. Sorry, won't happen again.
I have noticed a certain lag on websites sometimes where it takes
forever to load a news program or YouTube video and I have
to refresh it to get it to load. Also to even login sometimes I have
to click retry several times. I attribute that to the websites.
Otherwise the computer are OK.
I still do daily scans and monthly mrimgs.
Robert
USB is "power-safe". You can plug and unplug with
power applied.
PS/2 is different in this regard.
PS/2 isn't used as much now (on new computers).
For USB, you want storage operations to be complete,
which is why "Safely Remove" exists. A keyboard is
not a storage device, which is why it should
not need "Safely Remove".
*******
Firefox has multiple processes. When you open extra
tabs in a window, the tabs can be sharing one Firefox process.
If you open a new window, that may start yet-more Firefox processes.
Try opening a new window in Firefox, then open a URL in it.
Maybe via process isolation, the new process will not be
influenced by activities in other Firefox windows.
But with Windows OS, even if you have a ton of CPU cores,
there is no scaling effect. It can still be slow. It
is because the machine is not making good usage of
what you've given it. And it has been like this for a
while, so I don't expect it will ever change.
Maybe Firefox uses pthreads. Is pthreads good ? Dunno.
Paul
I try to open only what I'm using vs multiple
applications. I use to leave Word, Paintbrush
and Dell Imaging all open but not anymore.
I've been going through allot lately; as an example,
I've spent an entire week trying to create a new VA
Account with ID.me as per the VA recommendation
because the old login is going to be discontinued
but they still can't verify me because they require
a cell phone with text and photo capability which I
don't have.
btw the VA is one of the worst where I constantly loose
my connection and have to click retry/resend 2 or 3 times
just to login. However, whenever I try to login it starts
the process all over and is asking for information I've
already given.
So now I can't login to my account to view appointments,
order medication and I know I have a message waiting
because Yahoo notified me.
Robert
There is another kind of MFA.
This is an advertisement for it, from the people who make the
plugin FIDO2 keys. With the VA, I don't know how easy it will be,
to get the details necessary to configure that.
https://fidoalliance.org/u-s-general-services-administrations-rollout-of-fido2-on-login-gov/
"They are prompted to either insert a hardware security key into their computer
and touch it or, if their device has a supported built-in authenticator, be prompted
to use it by looking into the camera or touching a biometric sensor (for two examples)."
What OS you use, may determine how difficult it is to set up.
Windows 10 has Windows Hello, which may provide the second
feature the thing needs.
It's up to the VA to decide what hardware they want you to use.
While I located one FIDO2 key with a fingerprint reader built
in (you touch the fingerprint area, to cause the device to
send authentication to the VA), that one is out of stock.
Maybe it is actually an older device. I can't find any more info.
With FIDO2 keys:
1) The ones with the cheesy plastic connector, you could fit a
short extension cable to it. The connector on the short extension
is intended to take the wear and tear.
2) You use two FIDO2 keys, and register both of them. You lock up
the second one. The second one, is for when the first one wears out.
The various authenticator methods are not all that good, so it's up
to the VA to decide what the authenticator shall be (Windows Hello facial recognition camera, or a fingerprint button). While you can also use
a PIN (doesn't have to be digits, can be text), that's not really
all that good either.
You can lock up both your FIDO2 devices, just not in the same safe.
Paul
On Sat, 8/3/2024 1:22 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 8/1/2024 4:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I actually was more concerned about you than the port
because you usually comment on something like that.
I actually haven't done any testing or to see if I plugged
it back in if it would work. I just tried it (with the power on)
and it works. I know I should have turned off the power first
and then do it. Sorry, won't happen again.
I have noticed a certain lag on websites sometimes where it takes
forever to load a news program or YouTube video and I have
to refresh it to get it to load. Also to even login sometimes I have
to click retry several times. I attribute that to the websites.
Otherwise the computer are OK.
I still do daily scans and monthly mrimgs.
Robert
USB is "power-safe". You can plug and unplug with
power applied.
PS/2 is different in this regard.
PS/2 isn't used as much now (on new computers).
For USB, you want storage operations to be complete,
which is why "Safely Remove" exists. A keyboard is
not a storage device, which is why it should
not need "Safely Remove".
*******
Firefox has multiple processes. When you open extra
tabs in a window, the tabs can be sharing one Firefox process.
If you open a new window, that may start yet-more Firefox processes.
Try opening a new window in Firefox, then open a URL in it.
Maybe via process isolation, the new process will not be
influenced by activities in other Firefox windows.
But with Windows OS, even if you have a ton of CPU cores,
there is no scaling effect. It can still be slow. It
is because the machine is not making good usage of
what you've given it. And it has been like this for a
while, so I don't expect it will ever change.
Maybe Firefox uses pthreads. Is pthreads good ? Dunno.
Paul
I try to open only what I'm using vs multiple
applications. I use to leave Word, Paintbrush
and Dell Imaging all open but not anymore.
I've been going through allot lately; as an example,
I've spent an entire week trying to create a new VA
Account with ID.me as per the VA recommendation
because the old login is going to be discontinued
but they still can't verify me because they require
a cell phone with text and photo capability which I
don't have.
btw the VA is one of the worst where I constantly loose
my connection and have to click retry/resend 2 or 3 times
just to login. However, whenever I try to login it starts
the process all over and is asking for information I've
already given.
So now I can't login to my account to view appointments,
order medication and I know I have a message waiting
because Yahoo notified me.
Robert
There is another kind of MFA.
This is an advertisement for it, from the people who make the
plugin FIDO2 keys. With the VA, I don't know how easy it will be,
to get the details necessary to configure that.
https://fidoalliance.org/u-s-general-services-administrations-rollout-of-fido2-on-login-gov/
"They are prompted to either insert a hardware security key into their computer
and touch it or, if their device has a supported built-in authenticator, be prompted
to use it by looking into the camera or touching a biometric sensor (for two examples)."
What OS you use, may determine how difficult it is to set up.
Windows 10 has Windows Hello, which may provide the second
feature the thing needs.
It's up to the VA to decide what hardware they want you to use.
While I located one FIDO2 key with a fingerprint reader built
in (you touch the fingerprint area, to cause the device to
send authentication to the VA), that one is out of stock.
Maybe it is actually an older device. I can't find any more info.
With FIDO2 keys:
1) The ones with the cheesy plastic connector, you could fit a
short extension cable to it. The connector on the short extension
is intended to take the wear and tear.
2) You use two FIDO2 keys, and register both of them. You lock up
the second one. The second one, is for when the first one wears out.
The various authenticator methods are not all that good, so it's up
to the VA to decide what the authenticator shall be (Windows Hello facial recognition camera, or a fingerprint button). While you can also use
a PIN (doesn't have to be digits, can be text), that's not really
all that good either.
You can lock up both your FIDO2 devices, just not in the same safe.
Paul
I went back and looked at the options they gave... I should of selected Security Key ,. then would probably have to download some application
from them. Would I still be able to check it with scans?
https://postimg.cc/BL4nGZVT
Anyways, I'm going to suggest it to the ID.me guy I'm in contact with.
Robert
On Sun, 8/4/2024 6:46 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went back and looked at the options they gave... I should of selected
Security Key ,. then would probably have to download some application
from them. Would I still be able to check it with scans?
https://postimg.cc/BL4nGZVT
Anyways, I'm going to suggest it to the ID.me guy I'm in contact with.
Robert
Anything that involves computers, is going to be like this.
You've likely figured this out by now. A self-perpetuating
loop. It's just the size of the loop that varies :-/
I have a vague sense of some of it, but the analysis of "actual security", like how much better is it than a phish-able phone setup, that I don't
know. The security key can be stolen from you, but the authentication
method should be harder to steal.
And the articles Microsoft writes on this are not that helpful.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/device-experiences/windows-hello-face-authentication
The cameras seven or eight years ago, were "structured light" cameras.
One of the facial recognition features, was illuminating your face
with infrared light, which is a bit more independent of ambient
light conditions. But if I Google the topic, there are people who
have problems with their hardware and the drivers for it. Stuff
that used to work, that stopped working.
Fingerprint readers have been around for a longer time, but
unless the OS has a framework for them, there could still be
reasons they don't work.
That's why you want someone to help you, who knows of "approved"
or even "tested" setups that work.
But the FIDO2 key, that part is simpler. The recognition there,
part of it is at the VA end, actually accepting input from
a FIDO2 key. It's less likely to be a USB hub failure on the
local computer end.
Fingerprint readers apparently vary in some anti-spoofing
features they have added.
It's the authentication bit that leaves a lot to be desired.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 8/4/2024 6:46 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went back and looked at the options they gave... I should of selected
Security Key ,. then would probably have to download some application
from them. Would I still be able to check it with scans?
https://postimg.cc/BL4nGZVT
Anyways, I'm going to suggest it to the ID.me guy I'm in contact with.
Robert
Anything that involves computers, is going to be like this.
You've likely figured this out by now. A self-perpetuating
loop. It's just the size of the loop that varies :-/
I have a vague sense of some of it, but the analysis of "actual security", >> like how much better is it than a phish-able phone setup, that I don't
know. The security key can be stolen from you, but the authentication
method should be harder to steal.
And the articles Microsoft writes on this are not that helpful.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/device-experiences/windows-hello-face-authentication
The cameras seven or eight years ago, were "structured light" cameras.
One of the facial recognition features, was illuminating your face
with infrared light, which is a bit more independent of ambient
light conditions. But if I Google the topic, there are people who
have problems with their hardware and the drivers for it. Stuff
that used to work, that stopped working.
Fingerprint readers have been around for a longer time, but
unless the OS has a framework for them, there could still be
reasons they don't work.
That's why you want someone to help you, who knows of "approved"
or even "tested" setups that work.
But the FIDO2 key, that part is simpler. The recognition there,
part of it is at the VA end, actually accepting input from
a FIDO2 key. It's less likely to be a USB hub failure on the
local computer end.
Fingerprint readers apparently vary in some anti-spoofing
features they have added.
It's the authentication bit that leaves a lot to be desired.
Paul
Agreed , its their end that has the problems... this was supposed to be simplerphoto of my drivers license front and back and it was accepted.
but has messed everything up and I've lost my online connection to the VA.
I'm not sure about the FIDO2 is that something I download from them? I had suggested using the Security Key as my MFA and the rep responded I could add another MFA option if I wanted but they still do not have a photo of me. I told him I had given a
I've tried an entire week to get verified by ID.me and their rep just referred me to a VA site. I called the VA and said they could do nothing and referred me back to ID.mehelp at all. I suggested we delete the account and start over and its like he didn't see it.
See what I mean?
Whenever I try and login it asks for the same information I've already given. I tried calling the VA HeatheVet rep but they are never there and their mailbox is full. I tried calling the VA Patients Advocate and the same thing. The ID.me rep is of no
So once I get my car repaired... I'll go to the VA and try and straighten this out.
Thanks
R:)
On Tue, 8/6/2024 2:36 PM, Robert in CA wrote:photo of my drivers license front and back and it was accepted.
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 8/4/2024 6:46 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went back and looked at the options they gave... I should of selected >>>> Security Key ,. then would probably have to download some application
from them. Would I still be able to check it with scans?
https://postimg.cc/BL4nGZVT
Anyways, I'm going to suggest it to the ID.me guy I'm in contact with. >>>>
Robert
Anything that involves computers, is going to be like this.
You've likely figured this out by now. A self-perpetuating
loop. It's just the size of the loop that varies :-/
I have a vague sense of some of it, but the analysis of "actual security", >>> like how much better is it than a phish-able phone setup, that I don't
know. The security key can be stolen from you, but the authentication
method should be harder to steal.
And the articles Microsoft writes on this are not that helpful.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/device-experiences/windows-hello-face-authentication
The cameras seven or eight years ago, were "structured light" cameras.
One of the facial recognition features, was illuminating your face
with infrared light, which is a bit more independent of ambient
light conditions. But if I Google the topic, there are people who
have problems with their hardware and the drivers for it. Stuff
that used to work, that stopped working.
Fingerprint readers have been around for a longer time, but
unless the OS has a framework for them, there could still be
reasons they don't work.
That's why you want someone to help you, who knows of "approved"
or even "tested" setups that work.
But the FIDO2 key, that part is simpler. The recognition there,
part of it is at the VA end, actually accepting input from
a FIDO2 key. It's less likely to be a USB hub failure on the
local computer end.
Fingerprint readers apparently vary in some anti-spoofing
features they have added.
It's the authentication bit that leaves a lot to be desired.
Paul
Agreed , its their end that has the problems... this was supposed to be simpler
but has messed everything up and I've lost my online connection to the VA. >>
I'm not sure about the FIDO2 is that something I download from them? I had suggested using the Security Key as my MFA and the rep responded I could add another MFA option if I wanted but they still do not have a photo of me. I told him I had given a
help at all. I suggested we delete the account and start over and its like he didn't see it.
I've tried an entire week to get verified by ID.me and their rep just referred me to a VA site. I called the VA and said they could do nothing and referred me back to ID.me
See what I mean?
Whenever I try and login it asks for the same information I've already given. I tried calling the VA HeatheVet rep but they are never there and their mailbox is full. I tried calling the VA Patients Advocate and the same thing. The ID.me rep is of no
So once I get my car repaired... I'll go to the VA and try and straighten this out.
Thanks
R:)
Just for the record, this one, the button on it is the "Transmit" button.
The button is effectively a "clicker". There are different brands of these, implementing the FIDO2 standard. Similar to how TPM chips on computers, implement a standard, even though there are different brands, and those secure the boot process. This can be used for any number of things.
It's possible Gmail can be set up with one of these.
https://www.amazon.ca/FIDO-Security-TrustKey-FIDO2-Fingerprint/dp/B086QTS5YM
The fingerprint ones, are generally a more uniform surface of some sort
of material. One I saw, even looked "optical" and had a transparent section. It's about double the price of the other one.
https://www.amazon.com/Fingerprint-Thetis-Authentication-Protection-SalesForce/dp/B0821TDLP4
And the device manufacturers recommend two of those, so if one stops working, you still have the second working one, until you can get yet another
device enrolled.
I had a device for work a long time ago, and it's a nuisance because
of the "quirks" these devices have. You could go to use one, and
it could stop working. Whereas, your keyboard is pretty reliable
and you can tell when the keys are worn out and take precautions in
time. The security devices can have more than one failure mode
(such as the VA server getting wiped out, and not being ready and
able to accept authentication packets). And then you don't know
where to start. The device I used, needed to be resynchronized
several times, which is painless, but you have to visit the correct
person at work to get it done. These FIDO2 devices are not temporal,
so that kind of quirk is not present. The device I had, was
constantly powered. And, no battery bay either. I think I was
using that in the dialup era, before ADSL.
In my case then, I was "fully supported". There was an IT department.
The password person in my building, could handle the security device.
Whereas in your situation, it's the modern shitty "self-serve" model,
which is fine for things that work, not so fine for high tech things.
Keeping a GMail account working, is an example of the shitty "self-serve" model.
It's great for the smartphone people, who can SMS from dawn till dusk.
Paul
On Tue, 8/6/2024 2:36 PM, Robert in CA wrote:photo of my drivers license front and back and it was accepted.
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 8/4/2024 6:46 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went back and looked at the options they gave... I should of selected >>>> Security Key ,. then would probably have to download some application
from them. Would I still be able to check it with scans?
https://postimg.cc/BL4nGZVT
Anyways, I'm going to suggest it to the ID.me guy I'm in contact with. >>>>
Robert
Anything that involves computers, is going to be like this.
You've likely figured this out by now. A self-perpetuating
loop. It's just the size of the loop that varies :-/
I have a vague sense of some of it, but the analysis of "actual security", >>> like how much better is it than a phish-able phone setup, that I don't
know. The security key can be stolen from you, but the authentication
method should be harder to steal.
And the articles Microsoft writes on this are not that helpful.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/device-experiences/windows-hello-face-authentication
The cameras seven or eight years ago, were "structured light" cameras.
One of the facial recognition features, was illuminating your face
with infrared light, which is a bit more independent of ambient
light conditions. But if I Google the topic, there are people who
have problems with their hardware and the drivers for it. Stuff
that used to work, that stopped working.
Fingerprint readers have been around for a longer time, but
unless the OS has a framework for them, there could still be
reasons they don't work.
That's why you want someone to help you, who knows of "approved"
or even "tested" setups that work.
But the FIDO2 key, that part is simpler. The recognition there,
part of it is at the VA end, actually accepting input from
a FIDO2 key. It's less likely to be a USB hub failure on the
local computer end.
Fingerprint readers apparently vary in some anti-spoofing
features they have added.
It's the authentication bit that leaves a lot to be desired.
Paul
Agreed , its their end that has the problems... this was supposed to be simpler
but has messed everything up and I've lost my online connection to the VA. >>
I'm not sure about the FIDO2 is that something I download from them? I had suggested using the Security Key as my MFA and the rep responded I could add another MFA option if I wanted but they still do not have a photo of me. I told him I had given a
help at all. I suggested we delete the account and start over and its like he didn't see it.
I've tried an entire week to get verified by ID.me and their rep just referred me to a VA site. I called the VA and said they could do nothing and referred me back to ID.me
See what I mean?
Whenever I try and login it asks for the same information I've already given. I tried calling the VA HeatheVet rep but they are never there and their mailbox is full. I tried calling the VA Patients Advocate and the same thing. The ID.me rep is of no
So once I get my car repaired... I'll go to the VA and try and straighten this out.
Thanks
R:)
Just for the record, this one, the button on it is the "Transmit" button.
The button is effectively a "clicker". There are different brands of these, implementing the FIDO2 standard. Similar to how TPM chips on computers, implement a standard, even though there are different brands, and those secure the boot process. This can be used for any number of things.
It's possible Gmail can be set up with one of these.
https://www.amazon.ca/FIDO-Security-TrustKey-FIDO2-Fingerprint/dp/B086QTS5YM
The fingerprint ones, are generally a more uniform surface of some sort
of material. One I saw, even looked "optical" and had a transparent section. It's about double the price of the other one.
https://www.amazon.com/Fingerprint-Thetis-Authentication-Protection-SalesForce/dp/B0821TDLP4
And the device manufacturers recommend two of those, so if one stops working, you still have the second working one, until you can get yet another
device enrolled.
I had a device for work a long time ago, and it's a nuisance because
of the "quirks" these devices have. You could go to use one, and
it could stop working. Whereas, your keyboard is pretty reliable
and you can tell when the keys are worn out and take precautions in
time. The security devices can have more than one failure mode
(such as the VA server getting wiped out, and not being ready and
able to accept authentication packets). And then you don't know
where to start. The device I used, needed to be resynchronized
several times, which is painless, but you have to visit the correct
person at work to get it done. These FIDO2 devices are not temporal,
so that kind of quirk is not present. The device I had, was
constantly powered. And, no battery bay either. I think I was
using that in the dialup era, before ADSL.
In my case then, I was "fully supported". There was an IT department.
The password person in my building, could handle the security device.
Whereas in your situation, it's the modern shitty "self-serve" model,
which is fine for things that work, not so fine for high tech things.
Keeping a GMail account working, is an example of the shitty "self-serve" model.
It's great for the smartphone people, who can SMS from dawn till dusk.
Paul
On Tue, 8/6/2024 2:36 PM, Robert in CA wrote:photo of my drivers license front and back and it was accepted.
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 8/4/2024 6:46 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went back and looked at the options they gave... I should of selected >>>> Security Key ,. then would probably have to download some application
from them. Would I still be able to check it with scans?
https://postimg.cc/BL4nGZVT
Anyways, I'm going to suggest it to the ID.me guy I'm in contact with. >>>>
Robert
Anything that involves computers, is going to be like this.
You've likely figured this out by now. A self-perpetuating
loop. It's just the size of the loop that varies :-/
I have a vague sense of some of it, but the analysis of "actual security", >>> like how much better is it than a phish-able phone setup, that I don't
know. The security key can be stolen from you, but the authentication
method should be harder to steal.
And the articles Microsoft writes on this are not that helpful.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/device-experiences/windows-hello-face-authentication
The cameras seven or eight years ago, were "structured light" cameras.
One of the facial recognition features, was illuminating your face
with infrared light, which is a bit more independent of ambient
light conditions. But if I Google the topic, there are people who
have problems with their hardware and the drivers for it. Stuff
that used to work, that stopped working.
Fingerprint readers have been around for a longer time, but
unless the OS has a framework for them, there could still be
reasons they don't work.
That's why you want someone to help you, who knows of "approved"
or even "tested" setups that work.
But the FIDO2 key, that part is simpler. The recognition there,
part of it is at the VA end, actually accepting input from
a FIDO2 key. It's less likely to be a USB hub failure on the
local computer end.
Fingerprint readers apparently vary in some anti-spoofing
features they have added.
It's the authentication bit that leaves a lot to be desired.
Paul
Agreed , its their end that has the problems... this was supposed to be simpler
but has messed everything up and I've lost my online connection to the VA. >>
I'm not sure about the FIDO2 is that something I download from them? I had suggested using the Security Key as my MFA and the rep responded I could add another MFA option if I wanted but they still do not have a photo of me. I told him I had given a
help at all. I suggested we delete the account and start over and its like he didn't see it.
I've tried an entire week to get verified by ID.me and their rep just referred me to a VA site. I called the VA and said they could do nothing and referred me back to ID.me
See what I mean?
Whenever I try and login it asks for the same information I've already given. I tried calling the VA HeatheVet rep but they are never there and their mailbox is full. I tried calling the VA Patients Advocate and the same thing. The ID.me rep is of no
So once I get my car repaired... I'll go to the VA and try and straighten this out.
Thanks
R:)
Just for the record, this one, the button on it is the "Transmit" button.
The button is effectively a "clicker". There are different brands of these, implementing the FIDO2 standard. Similar to how TPM chips on computers, implement a standard, even though there are different brands, and those secure the boot process. This can be used for any number of things.
It's possible Gmail can be set up with one of these.
https://www.amazon.ca/FIDO-Security-TrustKey-FIDO2-Fingerprint/dp/B086QTS5YM
The fingerprint ones, are generally a more uniform surface of some sort
of material. One I saw, even looked "optical" and had a transparent section. It's about double the price of the other one.
https://www.amazon.com/Fingerprint-Thetis-Authentication-Protection-SalesForce/dp/B0821TDLP4
And the device manufacturers recommend two of those, so if one stops working, you still have the second working one, until you can get yet another
device enrolled.
I had a device for work a long time ago, and it's a nuisance because
of the "quirks" these devices have. You could go to use one, and
it could stop working. Whereas, your keyboard is pretty reliable
and you can tell when the keys are worn out and take precautions in
time. The security devices can have more than one failure mode
(such as the VA server getting wiped out, and not being ready and
able to accept authentication packets). And then you don't know
where to start. The device I used, needed to be resynchronized
several times, which is painless, but you have to visit the correct
person at work to get it done. These FIDO2 devices are not temporal,
so that kind of quirk is not present. The device I had, was
constantly powered. And, no battery bay either. I think I was
using that in the dialup era, before ADSL.
In my case then, I was "fully supported". There was an IT department.
The password person in my building, could handle the security device.
Whereas in your situation, it's the modern shitty "self-serve" model,
which is fine for things that work, not so fine for high tech things.
Keeping a GMail account working, is an example of the shitty "self-serve" model.
It's great for the smartphone people, who can SMS from dawn till dusk.
Paul
On Tue, 8/6/2024 2:36 PM, Robert in CA wrote:photo of my drivers license front and back and it was accepted.
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 8/4/2024 6:46 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I went back and looked at the options they gave... I should of selected >>>> Security Key ,. then would probably have to download some application
from them. Would I still be able to check it with scans?
https://postimg.cc/BL4nGZVT
Anyways, I'm going to suggest it to the ID.me guy I'm in contact with. >>>>
Robert
Anything that involves computers, is going to be like this.
You've likely figured this out by now. A self-perpetuating
loop. It's just the size of the loop that varies :-/
I have a vague sense of some of it, but the analysis of "actual security", >>> like how much better is it than a phish-able phone setup, that I don't
know. The security key can be stolen from you, but the authentication
method should be harder to steal.
And the articles Microsoft writes on this are not that helpful.
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/device-experiences/windows-hello-face-authentication
The cameras seven or eight years ago, were "structured light" cameras.
One of the facial recognition features, was illuminating your face
with infrared light, which is a bit more independent of ambient
light conditions. But if I Google the topic, there are people who
have problems with their hardware and the drivers for it. Stuff
that used to work, that stopped working.
Fingerprint readers have been around for a longer time, but
unless the OS has a framework for them, there could still be
reasons they don't work.
That's why you want someone to help you, who knows of "approved"
or even "tested" setups that work.
But the FIDO2 key, that part is simpler. The recognition there,
part of it is at the VA end, actually accepting input from
a FIDO2 key. It's less likely to be a USB hub failure on the
local computer end.
Fingerprint readers apparently vary in some anti-spoofing
features they have added.
It's the authentication bit that leaves a lot to be desired.
Paul
Agreed , its their end that has the problems... this was supposed to be simpler
but has messed everything up and I've lost my online connection to the VA. >>
I'm not sure about the FIDO2 is that something I download from them? I had suggested using the Security Key as my MFA and the rep responded I could add another MFA option if I wanted but they still do not have a photo of me. I told him I had given a
help at all. I suggested we delete the account and start over and its like he didn't see it.
I've tried an entire week to get verified by ID.me and their rep just referred me to a VA site. I called the VA and said they could do nothing and referred me back to ID.me
See what I mean?
Whenever I try and login it asks for the same information I've already given. I tried calling the VA HeatheVet rep but they are never there and their mailbox is full. I tried calling the VA Patients Advocate and the same thing. The ID.me rep is of no
So once I get my car repaired... I'll go to the VA and try and straighten this out.
Thanks
R:)
Just for the record, this one, the button on it is the "Transmit" button.
The button is effectively a "clicker". There are different brands of these, implementing the FIDO2 standard. Similar to how TPM chips on computers, implement a standard, even though there are different brands, and those secure the boot process. This can be used for any number of things.
It's possible Gmail can be set up with one of these.
https://www.amazon.ca/FIDO-Security-TrustKey-FIDO2-Fingerprint/dp/B086QTS5YM
The fingerprint ones, are generally a more uniform surface of some sort
of material. One I saw, even looked "optical" and had a transparent section. It's about double the price of the other one.
https://www.amazon.com/Fingerprint-Thetis-Authentication-Protection-SalesForce/dp/B0821TDLP4
And the device manufacturers recommend two of those, so if one stops working, you still have the second working one, until you can get yet another
device enrolled.
I had a device for work a long time ago, and it's a nuisance because
of the "quirks" these devices have. You could go to use one, and
it could stop working. Whereas, your keyboard is pretty reliable
and you can tell when the keys are worn out and take precautions in
time. The security devices can have more than one failure mode
(such as the VA server getting wiped out, and not being ready and
able to accept authentication packets). And then you don't know
where to start. The device I used, needed to be resynchronized
several times, which is painless, but you have to visit the correct
person at work to get it done. These FIDO2 devices are not temporal,
so that kind of quirk is not present. The device I had, was
constantly powered. And, no battery bay either. I think I was
using that in the dialup era, before ADSL.
In my case then, I was "fully supported". There was an IT department.
The password person in my building, could handle the security device.
Whereas in your situation, it's the modern shitty "self-serve" model,
which is fine for things that work, not so fine for high tech things.
Keeping a GMail account working, is an example of the shitty "self-serve" model.
It's great for the smartphone people, who can SMS from dawn till dusk.
Paul
I was able to login
Robert
On Thu, 8/8/2024 11:47 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I was able to login
Robert
That must count as a miracle :-)
Paul
Yes, but I still have to create a new
account with ID.me or login.Gov by Jan.
Also, my car has some serious trouble,..
the thermostat stuck so I have to have
the radiator replaced, water pump, hoses
etc but no one will take it because its a
1990 Toyota.
Its been down for 2 weeks now; the park
manager's husband is a mechanic and
hopefully he'll fix it for me. We'll see
and hope for the best.
Robert
On Sat, 8/17/2024 3:02 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Yes, but I still have to create a new
account with ID.me or login.Gov by Jan.
Also, my car has some serious trouble,..
the thermostat stuck so I have to have
the radiator replaced, water pump, hoses
etc but no one will take it because its a
1990 Toyota.
Its been down for 2 weeks now; the park
manager's husband is a mechanic and
hopefully he'll fix it for me. We'll see
and hope for the best.
Robert
At that vintage, certain after-market parts
won't be readily available.
On my car, it was off to the junk yard to find parts.
The transmission in my car, the replacement, came
from a junk yard, and it wasn't in "primo" condition.
But it did last until the end of the life of the car.
There are also parts networks, which I gather is
a kind of forum, a mechanic can ask if anyone
has a #12345678 sitting around, and other people have
a look. For my previous car, the tech was using
that to track down parts that were no long
available as official after-market stuff. That
might stretch your parts from 18 years to 20 years.
Dealerships don't necessarily stock in depth. Like
when I needed exhaust hangers (the rubber donut
that suspends the exhaust), I had to go all over town
to find a couple.
Just to give you some idea, some parts start
disappearing before the "end of the era". If they
promise to have parts for 18 years, some of the
parts can disappear years earlier than that.
And that matters when you've been in a smash-up,
and items that would not normally wear out, are needed.
Again, it's time for a hunt in the junk yard and so on.
And some things are just a bad idea. It might have
been my first car. A neighbor knocked the bumper off it.
The shop acquires a new bumper (plastic). It's the wrong
color, and so they say "no problem, we'll paint it".
And for the rest of the life of that car, the bumper
was a "festering peeling mess" :-) Such classic good looks.
It's not really a good idea to paint plastic bumps.
I mean, who knew ?
It's one thing to get hoses, at a hose place. But
some hoses are "shaped" and have sharp features in
them (bends you cannot do properly with your hands,
because the hose would collapse if you bent it that way).
The hoses seem to be molded into the require shape.
While under normal circumstances, you'd only need
a hose of 2" diameter and so many feet long, when
they're shaped like that, you need the correct part instead.
These are hoses that fit into tight spots.
As an example, I was lucky on my Integra, the power steering cooler
(it doesn't need one of those!) rusted out, I did a bypass.
I got a length of generic hose, some stainless hose
clamps, and just replaced the cooler with... nothing.
And that worked fine. Since the run was a straight line,
the hose just had to be compatible with power steering fluid.
The last thing that blew on that car, was a rebuilt alternator,
and since the frame was getting soft (no way to lift car
any more to work on it), that means it is time to
donate the car to the junk yard.
Sometimes a mechanical will tell you that. "If I lift
your car, it could fall off the lift." That's when you
know you're close to the limit. I don't like lifting
cars via the pinch welds, and I use my floor jack and
lift them by the beam in the center. It's floor jack,
jack stands, and chocks for the wheels.
Paul
On Sat, 8/17/2024 3:02 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Yes, but I still have to create a new
account with ID.me or login.Gov by Jan.
Also, my car has some serious trouble,..
the thermostat stuck so I have to have
the radiator replaced, water pump, hoses
etc but no one will take it because its a
1990 Toyota.
Its been down for 2 weeks now; the park
manager's husband is a mechanic and
hopefully he'll fix it for me. We'll see
and hope for the best.
Robert
At that vintage, certain after-market parts
won't be readily available.
On my car, it was off to the junk yard to find parts.
The transmission in my car, the replacement, came
from a junk yard, and it wasn't in "primo" condition.
But it did last until the end of the life of the car.
There are also parts networks, which I gather is
a kind of forum, a mechanic can ask if anyone
has a #12345678 sitting around, and other people have
a look. For my previous car, the tech was using
that to track down parts that were no long
available as official after-market stuff. That
might stretch your parts from 18 years to 20 years.
Dealerships don't necessarily stock in depth. Like
when I needed exhaust hangers (the rubber donut
that suspends the exhaust), I had to go all over town
to find a couple.
Just to give you some idea, some parts start
disappearing before the "end of the era". If they
promise to have parts for 18 years, some of the
parts can disappear years earlier than that.
And that matters when you've been in a smash-up,
and items that would not normally wear out, are needed.
Again, it's time for a hunt in the junk yard and so on.
And some things are just a bad idea. It might have
been my first car. A neighbor knocked the bumper off it.
The shop acquires a new bumper (plastic). It's the wrong
color, and so they say "no problem, we'll paint it".
And for the rest of the life of that car, the bumper
was a "festering peeling mess" :-) Such classic good looks.
It's not really a good idea to paint plastic bumps.
I mean, who knew ?
It's one thing to get hoses, at a hose place. But
some hoses are "shaped" and have sharp features in
them (bends you cannot do properly with your hands,
because the hose would collapse if you bent it that way).
The hoses seem to be molded into the require shape.
While under normal circumstances, you'd only need
a hose of 2" diameter and so many feet long, when
they're shaped like that, you need the correct part instead.
These are hoses that fit into tight spots.
As an example, I was lucky on my Integra, the power steering cooler
(it doesn't need one of those!) rusted out, I did a bypass.
I got a length of generic hose, some stainless hose
clamps, and just replaced the cooler with... nothing.
And that worked fine. Since the run was a straight line,
the hose just had to be compatible with power steering fluid.
The last thing that blew on that car, was a rebuilt alternator,
and since the frame was getting soft (no way to lift car
any more to work on it), that means it is time to
donate the car to the junk yard.
Sometimes a mechanical will tell you that. "If I lift
your car, it could fall off the lift." That's when you
know you're close to the limit. I don't like lifting
cars via the pinch welds, and I use my floor jack and
lift them by the beam in the center. It's floor jack,
jack stands, and chocks for the wheels.
Paul
I think I remember you saying that the lag problem
I'm experiencing may be an indication of my power
supply going.
Is there a test like HD-Tune that we can test the power
supply to see if it's OK ?
Thanks,
Robert
On Mon, 8/19/2024 12:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I think I remember you saying that the lag problem
I'm experiencing may be an indication of my power
supply going.
Is there a test like HD-Tune that we can test the power
supply to see if it's OK ?
Thanks,
Robert
Static testing of an ATX PSU, means using a multimeter
to measure the voltages. When you apply a computing
load, you expect the voltage to only vary by a tiny
amount, not by a large amount. The terms for this
are "line regulation" and "load regulation". As the mains
voltage goes up and down, the DC output does not change.
When the CPU draws more current, the +12V does not drop too much.
Instead of using the CPU as an electrical load, you
can use ceramic power resistors. I have a 100W load
for a PSU, that consists of a series of ceramic resistors.
I might measure the ATX voltage while the load is applied.
This load is used for evaluating a new PSU, and it is
not a strenuous test. It's a test that the thing is
"functional" and "meets baseline performance". It
does not evaluate the transient response, the ability to
handle a large capacitive load and so on. More than 5000uF
of capacitance, may cause an ATX supply to oscillate
(no remaining phase margin in control loop).
There are rack mount PSU testers you can get. I think
perhaps a site like Anandtech might have had one of those.
Those can evaluate just about every spec a PSU might meet.
It's a lot harder though, to do realistic or precise testing
via adhoc means. Testing with a multimeter isn't all that
meaningful.
*******
When a PSU does not measure up, one possible outcome is a CPU crash.
A second outcome (if the 12V runs at 11V), is the hard drive spins down
and spins back up. You might even hear "clicking", which is a seek-to-zero operation. But the drive isn't really doing that for good reason, that's
the firmware it is forced to run when the power monitor chip decides
to reset the controller printed circuit board. When a disk clicks,
there are two possibilities - bad PSU, or bad disk.
The PSU can be quite sick, before the machine manifests with any
symptoms at all. It was the hard drive noise, that told me the
previous supply needed to be changed out. I checked the voltages
with the multimeter, and only the +12V was low. I got a Seasonic S12 600W
to replace it. The previous supply was around 500W or so, an Enermax
I've had for a long time.
Generally, Dell PSUs are OK. They're not a Powmax or anything :-)
https://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/ProductImage/17-163-018-06.JPG
"Lag" in a browser, can come from the CPU being pinned on one core,
by a Javascript script in any open tab. It does not take much to
cause that to happen. For some reason, browsers run a bit better
under Linux. There's something about the scheduling or the thread
model which is different. I have not seen a technical description
of this difference, or I'd tell you what it was.
Paul
On Mon, 8/19/2024 12:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I think I remember you saying that the lag problem
I'm experiencing may be an indication of my power
supply going.
Is there a test like HD-Tune that we can test the power
supply to see if it's OK ?
Thanks,
Robert
Static testing of an ATX PSU, means using a multimeter
to measure the voltages. When you apply a computing
load, you expect the voltage to only vary by a tiny
amount, not by a large amount. The terms for this
are "line regulation" and "load regulation". As the mains
voltage goes up and down, the DC output does not change.
When the CPU draws more current, the +12V does not drop too much.
Instead of using the CPU as an electrical load, you
can use ceramic power resistors. I have a 100W load
for a PSU, that consists of a series of ceramic resistors.
I might measure the ATX voltage while the load is applied.
This load is used for evaluating a new PSU, and it is
not a strenuous test. It's a test that the thing is
"functional" and "meets baseline performance". It
does not evaluate the transient response, the ability to
handle a large capacitive load and so on. More than 5000uF
of capacitance, may cause an ATX supply to oscillate
(no remaining phase margin in control loop).
There are rack mount PSU testers you can get. I think
perhaps a site like Anandtech might have had one of those.
Those can evaluate just about every spec a PSU might meet.
It's a lot harder though, to do realistic or precise testing
via adhoc means. Testing with a multimeter isn't all that
meaningful.
*******
When a PSU does not measure up, one possible outcome is a CPU crash.
A second outcome (if the 12V runs at 11V), is the hard drive spins down
and spins back up. You might even hear "clicking", which is a seek-to-zero operation. But the drive isn't really doing that for good reason, that's
the firmware it is forced to run when the power monitor chip decides
to reset the controller printed circuit board. When a disk clicks,
there are two possibilities - bad PSU, or bad disk.
The PSU can be quite sick, before the machine manifests with any
symptoms at all. It was the hard drive noise, that told me the
previous supply needed to be changed out. I checked the voltages
with the multimeter, and only the +12V was low. I got a Seasonic S12 600W
to replace it. The previous supply was around 500W or so, an Enermax
I've had for a long time.
Generally, Dell PSUs are OK. They're not a Powmax or anything :-)
https://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/ProductImage/17-163-018-06.JPG
"Lag" in a browser, can come from the CPU being pinned on one core,
by a Javascript script in any open tab. It does not take much to
cause that to happen. For some reason, browsers run a bit better
under Linux. There's something about the scheduling or the thread
model which is different. I have not seen a technical description
of this difference, or I'd tell you what it was.
Paul
Just curious,.. on the 8500 Malwarebytes has changed with the
updates but doesn't show a version number while the 780 has
changed and is V4.6.17 but they look different. I'm just wondering
why the difference? I check for updates for both so they should
be the same.
8500 Malwarebytes:
https://postimg.cc/ykbdsVmf
780 Malwarebytes:
https://postimg.cc/3WG9gRRG
Thanks,
Robert
On Wed, 8/28/2024 2:22 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Just curious,.. on the 8500 Malwarebytes has changed with the
updates but doesn't show a version number while the 780 has
changed and is V4.6.17 but they look different. I'm just wondering
why the difference? I check for updates for both so they should
be the same.
8500 Malwarebytes:
https://postimg.cc/ykbdsVmf
780 Malwarebytes:
https://postimg.cc/3WG9gRRG
Thanks,
Robert
I would guess these are different versions.
You might be able to go to their Program Files area,
and do Properties on the main EXE file in there, and
see if the version is mentioned.
They both look like they're in Free mode (on-demand scan only),
but only one indicates the Free status in the GUI (by using
the word "Free").
I tried looking at some Google images of Malwarebytes screens,
and it's just a horrible mass of advertising, rather than
presenting program information in a useful way.
I suspect you're a few versions behind, but for signature scanning,
that may not be that important (altering it, may make the
situation worse). Their real time features would
work better if they were kept up to date, but that would be
a subscription, and it might also conflict with AVG or whatever
else you've got as a real time AV. (Running two real-time AVs
could slow a machine down.)
As I understand it, the Malwarebytes on-demand signature scan,
should not interact with an Avast or AVG subscription (with
real time AV protection).
I only resort to attempting to "test" mine, if it appears
to be "dead". Malwarebytes, I think they said before, they
don't respond to EICAR (as a test), and I can understand
their reasons for saying that (not a good test), but in
many situations, it's the easiest thing I can try. But
that would not work on Malwarebytes. And your other AV,
may intercept the attempt to install it, before Malwarebytes
can be asked to do an on-demand scan. In summary, it's hard
to design test cases for a well-armored battleship. And even when
products have switches to "disable" them, they're not really
disabled. Just about anything could happen to invalidate your
test case :-)
I have tested AV products before, which appeared to be non-functional,
and they were so bad, you didn't even need to feed them "bait" to tell
they were dead. In other cases, all the dialog boxes work, but
they're not really working. I've had failures on the Microsoft one,
where it doesn't seem to be loaded (I get a white screen instead
of the dialog). It's been OK for the last year or
so, at a guess. But the Microsoft one had some bad stretches,
where it wasn't always home when you checked on it.
Paul
On Wed, 8/28/2024 2:22 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Just curious,.. on the 8500 Malwarebytes has changed with the
updates but doesn't show a version number while the 780 has
changed and is V4.6.17 but they look different. I'm just wondering
why the difference? I check for updates for both so they should
be the same.
8500 Malwarebytes:
https://postimg.cc/ykbdsVmf
780 Malwarebytes:
https://postimg.cc/3WG9gRRG
Thanks,
Robert
I would guess these are different versions.
You might be able to go to their Program Files area,
and do Properties on the main EXE file in there, and
see if the version is mentioned.
They both look like they're in Free mode (on-demand scan only),
but only one indicates the Free status in the GUI (by using
the word "Free").
I tried looking at some Google images of Malwarebytes screens,
and it's just a horrible mass of advertising, rather than
presenting program information in a useful way.
I suspect you're a few versions behind, but for signature scanning,
that may not be that important (altering it, may make the
situation worse). Their real time features would
work better if they were kept up to date, but that would be
a subscription, and it might also conflict with AVG or whatever
else you've got as a real time AV. (Running two real-time AVs
could slow a machine down.)
As I understand it, the Malwarebytes on-demand signature scan,
should not interact with an Avast or AVG subscription (with
real time AV protection).
I only resort to attempting to "test" mine, if it appears
to be "dead". Malwarebytes, I think they said before, they
don't respond to EICAR (as a test), and I can understand
their reasons for saying that (not a good test), but in
many situations, it's the easiest thing I can try. But
that would not work on Malwarebytes. And your other AV,
may intercept the attempt to install it, before Malwarebytes
can be asked to do an on-demand scan. In summary, it's hard
to design test cases for a well-armored battleship. And even when
products have switches to "disable" them, they're not really
disabled. Just about anything could happen to invalidate your
test case :-)
I have tested AV products before, which appeared to be non-functional,
and they were so bad, you didn't even need to feed them "bait" to tell
they were dead. In other cases, all the dialog boxes work, but
they're not really working. I've had failures on the Microsoft one,
where it doesn't seem to be loaded (I get a white screen instead
of the dialog). It's been OK for the last year or
so, at a guess. But the Microsoft one had some bad stretches,
where it wasn't always home when you checked on it.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 8/28/2024 2:22 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Just curious,.. on the 8500 Malwarebytes has changed with the
updates but doesn't show a version number while the 780 has
changed and is V4.6.17 but they look different. I'm just wondering
why the difference? I check for updates for both so they should
be the same.
8500 Malwarebytes:
https://postimg.cc/ykbdsVmf
780 Malwarebytes:
https://postimg.cc/3WG9gRRG
Thanks,
Robert
I would guess these are different versions.
You might be able to go to their Program Files area,
and do Properties on the main EXE file in there, and
see if the version is mentioned.
They both look like they're in Free mode (on-demand scan only),
but only one indicates the Free status in the GUI (by using
the word "Free").
I tried looking at some Google images of Malwarebytes screens,
and it's just a horrible mass of advertising, rather than
presenting program information in a useful way.
I suspect you're a few versions behind, but for signature scanning,
that may not be that important (altering it, may make the
situation worse). Their real time features would
work better if they were kept up to date, but that would be
a subscription, and it might also conflict with AVG or whatever
else you've got as a real time AV. (Running two real-time AVs
could slow a machine down.)
As I understand it, the Malwarebytes on-demand signature scan,
should not interact with an Avast or AVG subscription (with
real time AV protection).
I only resort to attempting to "test" mine, if it appears
to be "dead". Malwarebytes, I think they said before, they
don't respond to EICAR (as a test), and I can understand
their reasons for saying that (not a good test), but in
many situations, it's the easiest thing I can try. But
that would not work on Malwarebytes. And your other AV,
may intercept the attempt to install it, before Malwarebytes
can be asked to do an on-demand scan. In summary, it's hard
to design test cases for a well-armored battleship. And even when
products have switches to "disable" them, they're not really
disabled. Just about anything could happen to invalidate your
test case :-)
I have tested AV products before, which appeared to be non-functional,
and they were so bad, you didn't even need to feed them "bait" to tell
they were dead. In other cases, all the dialog boxes work, but
they're not really working. I've had failures on the Microsoft one,
where it doesn't seem to be loaded (I get a white screen instead
of the dialog). It's been OK for the last year or
so, at a guess. But the Microsoft one had some bad stretches,
where it wasn't always home when you checked on it.
Paul
I was just curious,..
I just finished doing the mrimg's ; the 780 took
about 1 hour but the 8500 took about 30 minutes!
I would have thought the 8500 would take longer
because there's more on it?
780 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/hz8YYN7y
8500 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/BXnzhYZp
Why the difference in time?
Thanks,
Robert
_
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 8/28/2024 2:22 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Just curious,.. on the 8500 Malwarebytes has changed with the
updates but doesn't show a version number while the 780 has
changed and is V4.6.17 but they look different. I'm just wondering
why the difference? I check for updates for both so they should
be the same.
8500 Malwarebytes:
https://postimg.cc/ykbdsVmf
780 Malwarebytes:
https://postimg.cc/3WG9gRRG
Thanks,
Robert
I would guess these are different versions.
You might be able to go to their Program Files area,
and do Properties on the main EXE file in there, and
see if the version is mentioned.
They both look like they're in Free mode (on-demand scan only),
but only one indicates the Free status in the GUI (by using
the word "Free").
I tried looking at some Google images of Malwarebytes screens,
and it's just a horrible mass of advertising, rather than
presenting program information in a useful way.
I suspect you're a few versions behind, but for signature scanning,
that may not be that important (altering it, may make the
situation worse). Their real time features would
work better if they were kept up to date, but that would be
a subscription, and it might also conflict with AVG or whatever
else you've got as a real time AV. (Running two real-time AVs
could slow a machine down.)
As I understand it, the Malwarebytes on-demand signature scan,
should not interact with an Avast or AVG subscription (with
real time AV protection).
I only resort to attempting to "test" mine, if it appears
to be "dead". Malwarebytes, I think they said before, they
don't respond to EICAR (as a test), and I can understand
their reasons for saying that (not a good test), but in
many situations, it's the easiest thing I can try. But
that would not work on Malwarebytes. And your other AV,
may intercept the attempt to install it, before Malwarebytes
can be asked to do an on-demand scan. In summary, it's hard
to design test cases for a well-armored battleship. And even when
products have switches to "disable" them, they're not really
disabled. Just about anything could happen to invalidate your
test case :-)
I have tested AV products before, which appeared to be non-functional,
and they were so bad, you didn't even need to feed them "bait" to tell
they were dead. In other cases, all the dialog boxes work, but
they're not really working. I've had failures on the Microsoft one,
where it doesn't seem to be loaded (I get a white screen instead
of the dialog). It's been OK for the last year or
so, at a guess. But the Microsoft one had some bad stretches,
where it wasn't always home when you checked on it.
Paul
I was just curious,..
I just finished doing the mrimg's ; the 780 took
about 1 hour but the 8500 took about 30 minutes!
I would have thought the 8500 would take longer
because there's more on it?
780 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/hz8YYN7y
8500 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/BXnzhYZp
Why the difference in time?
Thanks,
Robert
Oh I think I know,..
the 8500 I/O speed is much faster,..
Robert
On Sun, 9/1/2024 12:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 8/28/2024 2:22 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Just curious,.. on the 8500 Malwarebytes has changed with the
updates but doesn't show a version number while the 780 has
changed and is V4.6.17 but they look different. I'm just wondering
why the difference? I check for updates for both so they should
be the same.
8500 Malwarebytes:
https://postimg.cc/ykbdsVmf
780 Malwarebytes:
https://postimg.cc/3WG9gRRG
Thanks,
Robert
I would guess these are different versions.
You might be able to go to their Program Files area,
and do Properties on the main EXE file in there, and
see if the version is mentioned.
They both look like they're in Free mode (on-demand scan only),
but only one indicates the Free status in the GUI (by using
the word "Free").
I tried looking at some Google images of Malwarebytes screens,
and it's just a horrible mass of advertising, rather than
presenting program information in a useful way.
I suspect you're a few versions behind, but for signature scanning,
that may not be that important (altering it, may make the
situation worse). Their real time features would
work better if they were kept up to date, but that would be
a subscription, and it might also conflict with AVG or whatever
else you've got as a real time AV. (Running two real-time AVs
could slow a machine down.)
As I understand it, the Malwarebytes on-demand signature scan,
should not interact with an Avast or AVG subscription (with
real time AV protection).
I only resort to attempting to "test" mine, if it appears
to be "dead". Malwarebytes, I think they said before, they
don't respond to EICAR (as a test), and I can understand
their reasons for saying that (not a good test), but in
many situations, it's the easiest thing I can try. But
that would not work on Malwarebytes. And your other AV,
may intercept the attempt to install it, before Malwarebytes
can be asked to do an on-demand scan. In summary, it's hard
to design test cases for a well-armored battleship. And even when
products have switches to "disable" them, they're not really
disabled. Just about anything could happen to invalidate your
test case :-)
I have tested AV products before, which appeared to be non-functional,
and they were so bad, you didn't even need to feed them "bait" to tell
they were dead. In other cases, all the dialog boxes work, but
they're not really working. I've had failures on the Microsoft one,
where it doesn't seem to be loaded (I get a white screen instead
of the dialog). It's been OK for the last year or
so, at a guess. But the Microsoft one had some bad stretches,
where it wasn't always home when you checked on it.
Paul
I was just curious,..
I just finished doing the mrimg's ; the 780 took
about 1 hour but the 8500 took about 30 minutes!
I would have thought the 8500 would take longer
because there's more on it?
780 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/hz8YYN7y
8500 mrimg
https://postimg.cc/BXnzhYZp
Why the difference in time?
Thanks,
Robert
The 780 is writing at 1.1Gbit/sec or 138MB/sec.
The 8500 is writing at 1.6Gbit/sec or 200MB/sec.
Both speeds are possible with USB3, with the 8500 having a
"native" port, and the 780 if you used USB3 could have the
limitation of the PCIe x1 slot bandwidth (250MB/sec max).
Another aspect of the problem, is whether the CPU has been
asked to compress the output. There is an option control in
the lower left corner, and you can turn off compression to
get more speed.
Macrium creates checksums for the MRIMG as it writes, and
that is an aspect which provides an overall limit. You cannot
go faster than the checksum process goes. The upper limit
on some boxes would be about 300MB/sec or 2.4Gbit/sec.
Hard drives are faster on the outer diameter, than they are
near the hub. The hard drive that does maybe 290MB/sec
on the outer diameter, only does 145MB/sec near the hub.
Whereas flash based storage devices are more consistent from
end to end.
I would say, overall, the 780 did pretty good for a machine
of that era. I have likely seen specimens here in the same
ballpark as the 780. The thing is, Macrium doesn't pull every
hardware trick in the book -- they want the backup to be
accurate first, as an overall concern. The compressor they use,
is a rather lightweight one, and it's a miracle it does not
slow down the process all that much, compared to some of the
compression choices. The best compressor you can get, even
on my most powerful machine, can only do 50MB/sec :-) It is
possible the Macrium one, runs on just the one core.
If you happen to have included an MRIMG as part of a new backup
operation, the file is already compressed, so the compressor
will run slower on that portion of the backup.
Paul
Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?
Thanks,
Robert
On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?
Thanks,
Robert
The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore.
When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.
That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
And it will indicate that it passed or failed.
I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.
*******
You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
"Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work.
Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
is a disadvantage of this workaround.
You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.
Paul
On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?
Thanks,
Robert
The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore.
When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.
That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
And it will indicate that it passed or failed.
I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.
*******
You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
"Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work.
Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
is a disadvantage of this workaround.
You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?
Thanks,
Robert
The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore.
When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions >> off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.
That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
And it will indicate that it passed or failed.
I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.
*******
You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
"Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work.
Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
is a disadvantage of this workaround.
You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.
Paul
I checked the Bios on the 780 and the 8500 for Quick Boot.
780:
https://postimg.cc/qh63TCyx
https://postimg.cc/JyDnDC01
https://postimg.cc/F1gjs3wT
8500:
https://postimg.cc/qt3Kf38X
https://postimg.cc/c6mnNZ8j
So are you recommending I attach my external hd's and verify all the
mrimgs via macrium? Also after each mrimg do I need to verify?
Thanks,
Robert
On Sat, 9/14/2024 10:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?
Thanks,
Robert
The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore.
When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions >>> off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.
That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
And it will indicate that it passed or failed.
I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.
*******
You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
"Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work.
Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
is a disadvantage of this workaround.
You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.
Paul
I checked the Bios on the 780 and the 8500 for Quick Boot.
780:
https://postimg.cc/qh63TCyx
https://postimg.cc/JyDnDC01
https://postimg.cc/F1gjs3wT
8500:
https://postimg.cc/qt3Kf38X
https://postimg.cc/c6mnNZ8j
So are you recommending I attach my external hd's and verify all the
mrimgs via macrium? Also after each mrimg do I need to verify?
Thanks,
Robert
It's called "Fast BIOS mode" on this APTIO setup.
https://i0.wp.com/blog.radwell.codes/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/PXL_20210515_114252926.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1
Basically, it skips some steps. And in some cases (apparently), this
included ignoring the BIOS key presses. For some reason, some keyboards working, some not working. The web page this item was on, the person
had trouble changing the boot order while "Fast BIOS mode" was enabled.
The thing is, so far, this is the first thing that ever made a difference. There isn't a guarantee it is the problem, but at least on some BIOS
years ago, it's a problem.
*******
As for the Macrium Verify, the Verify function is not perfect. It does not identify every possible defect. It worked out in my case, because the checksum process, and the data writing process, were out of step, and
the RAM corruption was upsetting the checksum. There may be other cases, where the data being backed up, is corrupted "early", like right after
the read is done from the source disk. The Verify cannot see a problem
in that case.
You can use statistical sampling. Check a couple MRIMG files with the
Verify function per year. Chances are, you will never see a problem.
That's why I don't particular recommend making a hobby out of it.
Still, it doesn't hurt to check an MRIMG on the odd occasion.
We had some backup incidents at work, which illustrate the same thing.
One of my fellow employees was quite proud of the pile of 8mm backup tapes he'd made. I asked him to stick a tape in the drive, and let's ask
the software for the name of the backup. The tape spins, nothing happens.
We try another tape. The tape spins, nothing happens. Well, none
of the tapes have data on them. The "use cleaning tape" light is
lit on the front panel of the 8mm drive (you are supposed to use
the cleaning tape, every 30 hours). I have a box of cleaning
tapes at my desk, for that model of drive. We put a bit of alcohol
on the cleaning cart, clean the drive, do a small backup -- tape
has data on it, the ID works properly.
It is those occasions, when you have that smile on your face,
and the backup has no data in it... that's when you run the Verify :-)
On several occasions, utility software in my group, was released
without proper testing, and... of course bad things happened.
Software people are a lot more aware of this, than in the old
days. One of the examples, is the usual thing. A backup software,
that when you go to do a restore, it just doesn't work. It was
apparently simple enough to fix, but I didn't stand around
waiting for them to finish. That might have been reel-to-reel
nine track tape, at the time.
Paul
On Sat, 9/14/2024 10:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?
Thanks,
Robert
The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore.
When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions >>> off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.
That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
And it will indicate that it passed or failed.
I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.
*******
You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
"Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work.
Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
is a disadvantage of this workaround.
You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.
Paul
I checked the Bios on the 780 and the 8500 for Quick Boot.
780:
https://postimg.cc/qh63TCyx
https://postimg.cc/JyDnDC01
https://postimg.cc/F1gjs3wT
8500:
https://postimg.cc/qt3Kf38X
https://postimg.cc/c6mnNZ8j
So are you recommending I attach my external hd's and verify all the
mrimgs via macrium? Also after each mrimg do I need to verify?
Thanks,
Robert
It's called "Fast BIOS mode" on this APTIO setup.
https://i0.wp.com/blog.radwell.codes/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/PXL_20210515_114252926.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1
Basically, it skips some steps. And in some cases (apparently), this
included ignoring the BIOS key presses. For some reason, some keyboards working, some not working. The web page this item was on, the person
had trouble changing the boot order while "Fast BIOS mode" was enabled.
The thing is, so far, this is the first thing that ever made a difference. There isn't a guarantee it is the problem, but at least on some BIOS
years ago, it's a problem.
*******
As for the Macrium Verify, the Verify function is not perfect. It does not identify every possible defect. It worked out in my case, because the checksum process, and the data writing process, were out of step, and
the RAM corruption was upsetting the checksum. There may be other cases, where the data being backed up, is corrupted "early", like right after
the read is done from the source disk. The Verify cannot see a problem
in that case.
You can use statistical sampling. Check a couple MRIMG files with the
Verify function per year. Chances are, you will never see a problem.
That's why I don't particular recommend making a hobby out of it.
Still, it doesn't hurt to check an MRIMG on the odd occasion.
We had some backup incidents at work, which illustrate the same thing.
One of my fellow employees was quite proud of the pile of 8mm backup tapes he'd made. I asked him to stick a tape in the drive, and let's ask
the software for the name of the backup. The tape spins, nothing happens.
We try another tape. The tape spins, nothing happens. Well, none
of the tapes have data on them. The "use cleaning tape" light is
lit on the front panel of the 8mm drive (you are supposed to use
the cleaning tape, every 30 hours). I have a box of cleaning
tapes at my desk, for that model of drive. We put a bit of alcohol
on the cleaning cart, clean the drive, do a small backup -- tape
has data on it, the ID works properly.
It is those occasions, when you have that smile on your face,
and the backup has no data in it... that's when you run the Verify :-)
On several occasions, utility software in my group, was released
without proper testing, and... of course bad things happened.
Software people are a lot more aware of this, than in the old
days. One of the examples, is the usual thing. A backup software,
that when you go to do a restore, it just doesn't work. It was
apparently simple enough to fix, but I didn't stand around
waiting for them to finish. That might have been reel-to-reel
nine track tape, at the time.
Paul
I went back to check the BIOS for Fast Bios Mode but it
wasn't there.
https://postimg.cc/w1WGSQds
As I understand it, verifying is like browsing the mrimgs.
I went back to my previous images but I do not see a verify
option to the left or does that appear after I select the mrimg?
https://postimg.cc/t14NGKzX
https://postimg.cc/p5fFFCBG
Question: Do I change the drive letter for verifying? and
then back again the same in browsing?
Also, I believe I do not use the Rescue Disk for this, correct?
I use it only to create mrimgs.
Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 9/14/2024 10:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?
Thanks,
Robert
The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore.
When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions >>>> off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.
That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
And it will indicate that it passed or failed.
I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.
*******
You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
"Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work. >>>>
Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
is a disadvantage of this workaround.
You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.
Paul
I checked the Bios on the 780 and the 8500 for Quick Boot.
780:
https://postimg.cc/qh63TCyx
https://postimg.cc/JyDnDC01
https://postimg.cc/F1gjs3wT
8500:
https://postimg.cc/qt3Kf38X
https://postimg.cc/c6mnNZ8j
So are you recommending I attach my external hd's and verify all the
mrimgs via macrium? Also after each mrimg do I need to verify?
Thanks,
Robert
It's called "Fast BIOS mode" on this APTIO setup.
https://i0.wp.com/blog.radwell.codes/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/PXL_20210515_114252926.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1
Basically, it skips some steps. And in some cases (apparently), this
included ignoring the BIOS key presses. For some reason, some keyboards
working, some not working. The web page this item was on, the person
had trouble changing the boot order while "Fast BIOS mode" was enabled.
The thing is, so far, this is the first thing that ever made a difference. >> There isn't a guarantee it is the problem, but at least on some BIOS
years ago, it's a problem.
*******
As for the Macrium Verify, the Verify function is not perfect. It does not >> identify every possible defect. It worked out in my case, because the
checksum process, and the data writing process, were out of step, and
the RAM corruption was upsetting the checksum. There may be other cases,
where the data being backed up, is corrupted "early", like right after
the read is done from the source disk. The Verify cannot see a problem
in that case.
You can use statistical sampling. Check a couple MRIMG files with the
Verify function per year. Chances are, you will never see a problem.
That's why I don't particular recommend making a hobby out of it.
Still, it doesn't hurt to check an MRIMG on the odd occasion.
We had some backup incidents at work, which illustrate the same thing.
One of my fellow employees was quite proud of the pile of 8mm backup tapes >> he'd made. I asked him to stick a tape in the drive, and let's ask
the software for the name of the backup. The tape spins, nothing happens.
We try another tape. The tape spins, nothing happens. Well, none
of the tapes have data on them. The "use cleaning tape" light is
lit on the front panel of the 8mm drive (you are supposed to use
the cleaning tape, every 30 hours). I have a box of cleaning
tapes at my desk, for that model of drive. We put a bit of alcohol
on the cleaning cart, clean the drive, do a small backup -- tape
has data on it, the ID works properly.
It is those occasions, when you have that smile on your face,
and the backup has no data in it... that's when you run the Verify :-)
On several occasions, utility software in my group, was released
without proper testing, and... of course bad things happened.
Software people are a lot more aware of this, than in the old
days. One of the examples, is the usual thing. A backup software,
that when you go to do a restore, it just doesn't work. It was
apparently simple enough to fix, but I didn't stand around
waiting for them to finish. That might have been reel-to-reel
nine track tape, at the time.
Paul
I ran verify as a test using an older mrimg.
https://postimg.cc/ZW8mKLWs
https://postimg.cc/WDsvDJrN
Robert
On Thu, 9/19/2024 7:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 9/14/2024 10:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?
Thanks,
Robert
The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore. >>>>> When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions
off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.
That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
And it will indicate that it passed or failed.
I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.
*******
You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
"Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work. >>>>>
Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
is a disadvantage of this workaround.
You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.
Paul
I checked the Bios on the 780 and the 8500 for Quick Boot.
780:
https://postimg.cc/qh63TCyx
https://postimg.cc/JyDnDC01
https://postimg.cc/F1gjs3wT
8500:
https://postimg.cc/qt3Kf38X
https://postimg.cc/c6mnNZ8j
So are you recommending I attach my external hd's and verify all the
mrimgs via macrium? Also after each mrimg do I need to verify?
Thanks,
Robert
It's called "Fast BIOS mode" on this APTIO setup.
https://i0.wp.com/blog.radwell.codes/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/PXL_20210515_114252926.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1
Basically, it skips some steps. And in some cases (apparently), this
included ignoring the BIOS key presses. For some reason, some keyboards
working, some not working. The web page this item was on, the person
had trouble changing the boot order while "Fast BIOS mode" was enabled.
The thing is, so far, this is the first thing that ever made a difference. >>> There isn't a guarantee it is the problem, but at least on some BIOS
years ago, it's a problem.
*******
As for the Macrium Verify, the Verify function is not perfect. It does not >>> identify every possible defect. It worked out in my case, because the
checksum process, and the data writing process, were out of step, and
the RAM corruption was upsetting the checksum. There may be other cases, >>> where the data being backed up, is corrupted "early", like right after
the read is done from the source disk. The Verify cannot see a problem
in that case.
You can use statistical sampling. Check a couple MRIMG files with the
Verify function per year. Chances are, you will never see a problem.
That's why I don't particular recommend making a hobby out of it.
Still, it doesn't hurt to check an MRIMG on the odd occasion.
We had some backup incidents at work, which illustrate the same thing.
One of my fellow employees was quite proud of the pile of 8mm backup tapes >>> he'd made. I asked him to stick a tape in the drive, and let's ask
the software for the name of the backup. The tape spins, nothing happens. >>> We try another tape. The tape spins, nothing happens. Well, none
of the tapes have data on them. The "use cleaning tape" light is
lit on the front panel of the 8mm drive (you are supposed to use
the cleaning tape, every 30 hours). I have a box of cleaning
tapes at my desk, for that model of drive. We put a bit of alcohol
on the cleaning cart, clean the drive, do a small backup -- tape
has data on it, the ID works properly.
It is those occasions, when you have that smile on your face,
and the backup has no data in it... that's when you run the Verify :-)
On several occasions, utility software in my group, was released
without proper testing, and... of course bad things happened.
Software people are a lot more aware of this, than in the old
days. One of the examples, is the usual thing. A backup software,
that when you go to do a restore, it just doesn't work. It was
apparently simple enough to fix, but I didn't stand around
waiting for them to finish. That might have been reel-to-reel
nine track tape, at the time.
Paul
I ran verify as a test using an older mrimg.
https://postimg.cc/ZW8mKLWs
https://postimg.cc/WDsvDJrN
Robert
And that proves the checksum hasn't changed, since the backup MRIMG was made.
Paul
On Thu, 9/19/2024 7:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 9/14/2024 10:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?
Thanks,
Robert
The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore. >>>>> When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions
off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.
That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
And it will indicate that it passed or failed.
I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.
*******
You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
"Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work. >>>>>
Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
is a disadvantage of this workaround.
You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.
Paul
I checked the Bios on the 780 and the 8500 for Quick Boot.
780:
https://postimg.cc/qh63TCyx
https://postimg.cc/JyDnDC01
https://postimg.cc/F1gjs3wT
8500:
https://postimg.cc/qt3Kf38X
https://postimg.cc/c6mnNZ8j
So are you recommending I attach my external hd's and verify all the
mrimgs via macrium? Also after each mrimg do I need to verify?
Thanks,
Robert
It's called "Fast BIOS mode" on this APTIO setup.
https://i0.wp.com/blog.radwell.codes/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/PXL_20210515_114252926.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1
Basically, it skips some steps. And in some cases (apparently), this
included ignoring the BIOS key presses. For some reason, some keyboards
working, some not working. The web page this item was on, the person
had trouble changing the boot order while "Fast BIOS mode" was enabled.
The thing is, so far, this is the first thing that ever made a difference. >>> There isn't a guarantee it is the problem, but at least on some BIOS
years ago, it's a problem.
*******
As for the Macrium Verify, the Verify function is not perfect. It does not >>> identify every possible defect. It worked out in my case, because the
checksum process, and the data writing process, were out of step, and
the RAM corruption was upsetting the checksum. There may be other cases, >>> where the data being backed up, is corrupted "early", like right after
the read is done from the source disk. The Verify cannot see a problem
in that case.
You can use statistical sampling. Check a couple MRIMG files with the
Verify function per year. Chances are, you will never see a problem.
That's why I don't particular recommend making a hobby out of it.
Still, it doesn't hurt to check an MRIMG on the odd occasion.
We had some backup incidents at work, which illustrate the same thing.
One of my fellow employees was quite proud of the pile of 8mm backup tapes >>> he'd made. I asked him to stick a tape in the drive, and let's ask
the software for the name of the backup. The tape spins, nothing happens. >>> We try another tape. The tape spins, nothing happens. Well, none
of the tapes have data on them. The "use cleaning tape" light is
lit on the front panel of the 8mm drive (you are supposed to use
the cleaning tape, every 30 hours). I have a box of cleaning
tapes at my desk, for that model of drive. We put a bit of alcohol
on the cleaning cart, clean the drive, do a small backup -- tape
has data on it, the ID works properly.
It is those occasions, when you have that smile on your face,
and the backup has no data in it... that's when you run the Verify :-)
On several occasions, utility software in my group, was released
without proper testing, and... of course bad things happened.
Software people are a lot more aware of this, than in the old
days. One of the examples, is the usual thing. A backup software,
that when you go to do a restore, it just doesn't work. It was
apparently simple enough to fix, but I didn't stand around
waiting for them to finish. That might have been reel-to-reel
nine track tape, at the time.
Paul
I ran verify as a test using an older mrimg.
https://postimg.cc/ZW8mKLWs
https://postimg.cc/WDsvDJrN
Robert
And that proves the checksum hasn't changed, since the backup MRIMG was made.
Paul
On Fri, 11/1/2024 10:09 AM, RobnCA wrote:my hands and feet swelled up and had pins and needles pain, and itchy hives. I also had a reaction to the shingles and all my joints are screaming in pain,... I'm on medication but will run out soon. I've been to the ER (4) times since the ICU and have a
Completed mrimgs , computers are running well
780
https://postimg.cc/ThK2qGCB
8500
https://postimg.cc/DST2TGnK
I had a heart attack and spent 3 days in ICU at the VA from the 8-10th of this month and then a week later I saw my primary doctor for my annual checkup and got my flu and shingles shots. Unfortunately, I had a allergic reaction to the flu shot and
So lots of pain,......
Robert
I could have warned you about the shingles.
That shingles, the second shot made the top section of my
arm swell up. I didn't have any more vaccines in that
arm for a while, because I didn't know if it was safe or not.
If you had a chance to pass on the info, I would have recommended
against it. The doctor should also known the shingles pair is
not a joke, and should not be administered to people who have
already been through a lot. That's the kind of shot, you wait
until you're good and healthy before trying it.
The flu shot can cause a histamine reaction, because the flu shot
is based on eggs. People with an allergy or reaction to eggs, have
to be on the lookout for that. If you have had many flu shots,
and no throat swelling issues ten minutes later, it's likely "safe".
I don't see why the current flu shot would cause a problem. Only
if it was based on an entirely new method (MRNA?), would I be concerned.
The joint pain, sounds like an autoimmune reaction.
And it's not this one, because this one is numbness, rather than pain.
https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/guillain-barre-syndrome/symptoms-causes/syc-20362793
And I suppose you know that these days, it's hard for doctors
to write scripts for pain killers. That then, becomes an issue
when you have a legit pain problem. The doctors see so many
people faking it, and just about all the doctors at my
clinic, have lost the ability to write pain killer scripts.
There seems to be zero tolerance for abuse of such scripts
now, for the doctors here. I couldn't tell you what the
rules are, what it takes to lose your script privileges.
With the heart attack, did they do any work-up as to how occluded you are ? Three days is hardly any time to do anything. I think they have two CTs
at my hospital, one for scheduled scans, and one for emergencies. The queue for
the scheduled scans is five months long. I've seen a short video of my
heart beating, it looks terrible :-)
The problem with these machines, is the scans take a while, so they can't
do too many per day.
It sounds like you could really do with a diagnosis first. If it is
an autoimmune reaction, then they should work on that, to try and
correct your pain problem. My brother has an autoimmune problem
and he is immune suppressed. And it took several tries, to find a
treatment that he could tolerate. He likes the stuff he has now,
which is good. (Likes it, in the sense that it works.)
There are different kinds of immune suppression, and some are
more serious than others (like bubble-boy bad).
Paul
Paul wrote:my hands and feet swelled up and had pins and needles pain, and itchy hives. I also had a reaction to the shingles and all my joints are screaming in pain,... I'm on medication but will run out soon. I've been to the ER (4) times since the ICU and have a
On Fri, 11/1/2024 10:09 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Completed mrimgs , computers are running well
780
https://postimg.cc/ThK2qGCB
8500
https://postimg.cc/DST2TGnK
I had a heart attack and spent 3 days in ICU at the VA from the 8-10th of this month and then a week later I saw my primary doctor for my annual checkup and got my flu and shingles shots. Unfortunately, I had a allergic reaction to the flu shot and
So lots of pain,......
Robert
I could have warned you about the shingles.
That shingles, the second shot made the top section of my
arm swell up. I didn't have any more vaccines in that
arm for a while, because I didn't know if it was safe or not.
If you had a chance to pass on the info, I would have recommended
against it. The doctor should also known the shingles pair is
not a joke, and should not be administered to people who have
already been through a lot. That's the kind of shot, you wait
until you're good and healthy before trying it.
The flu shot can cause a histamine reaction, because the flu shot
is based on eggs. People with an allergy or reaction to eggs, have
to be on the lookout for that. If you have had many flu shots,
and no throat swelling issues ten minutes later, it's likely "safe".
I don't see why the current flu shot would cause a problem. Only
if it was based on an entirely new method (MRNA?), would I be concerned.
The joint pain, sounds like an autoimmune reaction.
And it's not this one, because this one is numbness, rather than pain.
https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/guillain-barre-syndrome/symptoms-causes/syc-20362793
And I suppose you know that these days, it's hard for doctors
to write scripts for pain killers. That then, becomes an issue
when you have a legit pain problem. The doctors see so many
people faking it, and just about all the doctors at my
clinic, have lost the ability to write pain killer scripts.
There seems to be zero tolerance for abuse of such scripts
now, for the doctors here. I couldn't tell you what the
rules are, what it takes to lose your script privileges.
With the heart attack, did they do any work-up as to how occluded you are ? >> Three days is hardly any time to do anything. I think they have two CTs
at my hospital, one for scheduled scans, and one for emergencies. The queue for
the scheduled scans is five months long. I've seen a short video of my
heart beating, it looks terrible :-)
The problem with these machines, is the scans take a while, so they can't
do too many per day.
It sounds like you could really do with a diagnosis first. If it is
an autoimmune reaction, then they should work on that, to try and
correct your pain problem. My brother has an autoimmune problem
and he is immune suppressed. And it took several tries, to find a
treatment that he could tolerate. He likes the stuff he has now,
which is good. (Likes it, in the sense that it works.)
There are different kinds of immune suppression, and some are
more serious than others (like bubble-boy bad).
Paul
I'm still in extreme pain all over,.. at first my hands and feet swelled
up and were very painful with pins and needles and hives.
Now my entire body is in pain and all joints,.. I went to ER (4) times
and they ran all the tests and EKG's but did nothing and all they would
give me was Tylenol except the last time a doctor gave me morphine but
even that didn't help. I have a appointment with the pain clinic the 15th
but am in agony till then and hope they'll help. They caused this.
They did do all the scans and I saw my heart beating etc and it all looked fine. I was doing OK until I got the damn shots.
I don't know what I have,. I hope it isn't Gullain-Barre-Syndrome. the doctor said its associated with my immune system building antibodies which could take a month. In the meantime I'm going through living hell here...
Yeah doctors are very leery about writing pain killers but I'm in real pain and suffering here and hope they do something to help. They didn't seem
to care all that much in the ER.
Robert
Neurologist. A doctor who treats nerve problems, such as multiple sclerosis and myasthenia gravis.
On Sat, 11/9/2024 8:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:and my hands and feet swelled up and had pins and needles pain, and itchy hives. I also had a reaction to the shingles and all my joints are screaming in pain,... I'm on medication but will run out soon. I've been to the ER (4) times since the ICU and
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 11/1/2024 10:09 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Completed mrimgs , computers are running well
780
https://postimg.cc/ThK2qGCB
8500
https://postimg.cc/DST2TGnK
I had a heart attack and spent 3 days in ICU at the VA from the 8-10th of this month and then a week later I saw my primary doctor for my annual checkup and got my flu and shingles shots. Unfortunately, I had a allergic reaction to the flu shot
So lots of pain,......
Robert
I could have warned you about the shingles.
That shingles, the second shot made the top section of my
arm swell up. I didn't have any more vaccines in that
arm for a while, because I didn't know if it was safe or not.
If you had a chance to pass on the info, I would have recommended
against it. The doctor should also known the shingles pair is
not a joke, and should not be administered to people who have
already been through a lot. That's the kind of shot, you wait
until you're good and healthy before trying it.
The flu shot can cause a histamine reaction, because the flu shot
is based on eggs. People with an allergy or reaction to eggs, have
to be on the lookout for that. If you have had many flu shots,
and no throat swelling issues ten minutes later, it's likely "safe".
I don't see why the current flu shot would cause a problem. Only
if it was based on an entirely new method (MRNA?), would I be concerned. >>>
The joint pain, sounds like an autoimmune reaction.
And it's not this one, because this one is numbness, rather than pain.
https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/guillain-barre-syndrome/symptoms-causes/syc-20362793
And I suppose you know that these days, it's hard for doctors
to write scripts for pain killers. That then, becomes an issue
when you have a legit pain problem. The doctors see so many
people faking it, and just about all the doctors at my
clinic, have lost the ability to write pain killer scripts.
There seems to be zero tolerance for abuse of such scripts
now, for the doctors here. I couldn't tell you what the
rules are, what it takes to lose your script privileges.
With the heart attack, did they do any work-up as to how occluded you are ? >>> Three days is hardly any time to do anything. I think they have two CTs
at my hospital, one for scheduled scans, and one for emergencies. The queue for
the scheduled scans is five months long. I've seen a short video of my
heart beating, it looks terrible :-)
The problem with these machines, is the scans take a while, so they can't >>> do too many per day.
It sounds like you could really do with a diagnosis first. If it is
an autoimmune reaction, then they should work on that, to try and
correct your pain problem. My brother has an autoimmune problem
and he is immune suppressed. And it took several tries, to find a
treatment that he could tolerate. He likes the stuff he has now,
which is good. (Likes it, in the sense that it works.)
There are different kinds of immune suppression, and some are
more serious than others (like bubble-boy bad).
Paul
I'm still in extreme pain all over,.. at first my hands and feet swelled
up and were very painful with pins and needles and hives.
Now my entire body is in pain and all joints,.. I went to ER (4) times
and they ran all the tests and EKG's but did nothing and all they would
give me was Tylenol except the last time a doctor gave me morphine but
even that didn't help. I have a appointment with the pain clinic the 15th
but am in agony till then and hope they'll help. They caused this.
They did do all the scans and I saw my heart beating etc and it all looked >> fine. I was doing OK until I got the damn shots.
I don't know what I have,. I hope it isn't Gullain-Barre-Syndrome. the doctor
said its associated with my immune system building antibodies which could
take a month. In the meantime I'm going through living hell here...
Yeah doctors are very leery about writing pain killers but I'm in real pain >> and suffering here and hope they do something to help. They didn't seem
to care all that much in the ER.
Robert
https://shingrixhcp.com/
"In a postmarketing observational study, an increased risk of Guillain-Barré
syndrome was observed during the 42 days following vaccination with SHINGRIX"
That is part of why I picked that one out of the air for a check, since
there is more than one vaccine associated with increased chance of GB.
But GB can also happen out of the blue (not related to vaccine), and it's probably just as much to do with your recent medical history ("sick with a virus")
as it is with the vaccine itself. It's more of a correlation than a cause.
And your symptoms are wrong for that (GB is numbness). It was just an example that I remembered,
nothing more.
But an autoimmune response is not a normal immune response. it is an over-response.
It's possible to suppress it, but back in the COVID era, it took quite a while
before they figured out what treatment was in the right ballpark for such a situation.
You may remember, the original COVID filled the lungs with fluid, and I think that's
partially the body attacking its own lung tissue. At the time, someone wanted to
suppress the response (stop the lungs filling with fluid), and there were
a few theories as to which of several compounds might work. But that was a research topic, and by the time they had sorted through the information,
the COVID had mutated to a different set of symptoms. You might notice today, there are no longer descriptions of the old treatment practices anywhere in the news.
But in any case, there is more than one compound to suppress the response. There are drugs that are a general suppression of immunity, where there
is an increased risk of you picking up diseases while out in public.
There are also compounds, that don't have quite the same broad spectrum response. My brother is immune suppressed (I think it might be a triangular shaped compound), yet he doesn't have the same risk of picking up stuff in public. His treatment is for rheumatoid arthritis.
Your symptoms on the other hand, seem almost similar to shingles. But that
is not joint pain. I think Shingles is a skin-level pain.
"Most people with shingles experience a localised band of pain in the
affected area. The pain may be a constant, dull or burning sensation
and its intensity can vary from mild to severe. You may have sharp
stabbing pains from time to time, and the affected area of skin will
usually be tender."
The second Shingrex of course, is the one that is a rat bastard. It
was in my case (arm did not swell on first one, arm definitely ballooned up on the second one).
And we know this isn't it, because this is a description way lower on
the pain scale. This isn't a nerve sheath pain. Just pressure from imflammation on a joint.
https://www.healthline.com/health/shingrix-side-effects-second-dose#muscle-pain
"Joint pain
Joint pain, also called arthralgia, is a potential side effect of Shingrix
that commonly occurs with muscle pain. This type of pain after a vaccine is
generally due to a temporary increase in inflammation, which can affect the
fluid around the joints.
Like muscle pain, taking an OTC pain reliever can help reduce joint pain
from the vaccine."
I tried the same kind of searches on flu vaccine, and they mention the stirring up of arthritis. But again, that's not the description of yours.
You are on fire, and I'm not getting a good match for that.
I hope for your sake, a "pain clinic" has the right kind of specialist
for this. You need an internal medicine specialist who knows about
autoimmune responses.
"Here are some specialists who treat autoimmune diseases:
Nephrologist. A doctor who treats kidney problems, such as inflamed kidneys caused by lupus.
Rheumatologist. A doctor who treats arthritis and other rheumatic diseases, such as scleroderma and lupus.
Endocrinologist. A doctor who treats gland and hormone problems, such as diabetes and thyroid disease.
Neurologist. A doctor who treats nerve problems, such as multiple sclerosis and myasthenia gravis.
Hematologist. A doctor who treats diseases that affect blood, such as some forms of anemia.
Gastroenterologist. A doctor who treats problems with the digestive system, such as inflammatory bowel disease.
Dermatologist. A doctor who treats diseases that affect the skin, hair, and nails, such as psoriasis and lupus.
Physical therapist. A health care worker who uses proper types of physical activity to help patients
with stiffness, weakness, and restricted body movement.
"
So maybe that is who you will be seeing, is a neurologist ?
Paul
On Sat, 11/9/2024 8:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:and my hands and feet swelled up and had pins and needles pain, and itchy hives. I also had a reaction to the shingles and all my joints are screaming in pain,... I'm on medication but will run out soon. I've been to the ER (4) times since the ICU and
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 11/1/2024 10:09 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Completed mrimgs , computers are running well
780
https://postimg.cc/ThK2qGCB
8500
https://postimg.cc/DST2TGnK
I had a heart attack and spent 3 days in ICU at the VA from the 8-10th of this month and then a week later I saw my primary doctor for my annual checkup and got my flu and shingles shots. Unfortunately, I had a allergic reaction to the flu shot
So lots of pain,......
Robert
I could have warned you about the shingles.
That shingles, the second shot made the top section of my
arm swell up. I didn't have any more vaccines in that
arm for a while, because I didn't know if it was safe or not.
If you had a chance to pass on the info, I would have recommended
against it. The doctor should also known the shingles pair is
not a joke, and should not be administered to people who have
already been through a lot. That's the kind of shot, you wait
until you're good and healthy before trying it.
The flu shot can cause a histamine reaction, because the flu shot
is based on eggs. People with an allergy or reaction to eggs, have
to be on the lookout for that. If you have had many flu shots,
and no throat swelling issues ten minutes later, it's likely "safe".
I don't see why the current flu shot would cause a problem. Only
if it was based on an entirely new method (MRNA?), would I be concerned. >>>
The joint pain, sounds like an autoimmune reaction.
And it's not this one, because this one is numbness, rather than pain.
https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/guillain-barre-syndrome/symptoms-causes/syc-20362793
And I suppose you know that these days, it's hard for doctors
to write scripts for pain killers. That then, becomes an issue
when you have a legit pain problem. The doctors see so many
people faking it, and just about all the doctors at my
clinic, have lost the ability to write pain killer scripts.
There seems to be zero tolerance for abuse of such scripts
now, for the doctors here. I couldn't tell you what the
rules are, what it takes to lose your script privileges.
With the heart attack, did they do any work-up as to how occluded you are ? >>> Three days is hardly any time to do anything. I think they have two CTs
at my hospital, one for scheduled scans, and one for emergencies. The queue for
the scheduled scans is five months long. I've seen a short video of my
heart beating, it looks terrible :-)
The problem with these machines, is the scans take a while, so they can't >>> do too many per day.
It sounds like you could really do with a diagnosis first. If it is
an autoimmune reaction, then they should work on that, to try and
correct your pain problem. My brother has an autoimmune problem
and he is immune suppressed. And it took several tries, to find a
treatment that he could tolerate. He likes the stuff he has now,
which is good. (Likes it, in the sense that it works.)
There are different kinds of immune suppression, and some are
more serious than others (like bubble-boy bad).
Paul
I'm still in extreme pain all over,.. at first my hands and feet swelled
up and were very painful with pins and needles and hives.
Now my entire body is in pain and all joints,.. I went to ER (4) times
and they ran all the tests and EKG's but did nothing and all they would
give me was Tylenol except the last time a doctor gave me morphine but
even that didn't help. I have a appointment with the pain clinic the 15th
but am in agony till then and hope they'll help. They caused this.
They did do all the scans and I saw my heart beating etc and it all looked >> fine. I was doing OK until I got the damn shots.
I don't know what I have,. I hope it isn't Gullain-Barre-Syndrome. the doctor
said its associated with my immune system building antibodies which could
take a month. In the meantime I'm going through living hell here...
Yeah doctors are very leery about writing pain killers but I'm in real pain >> and suffering here and hope they do something to help. They didn't seem
to care all that much in the ER.
Robert
https://shingrixhcp.com/
"In a postmarketing observational study, an increased risk of Guillain-Barré
syndrome was observed during the 42 days following vaccination with SHINGRIX"
That is part of why I picked that one out of the air for a check, since
there is more than one vaccine associated with increased chance of GB.
But GB can also happen out of the blue (not related to vaccine), and it's probably just as much to do with your recent medical history ("sick with a virus")
as it is with the vaccine itself. It's more of a correlation than a cause.
And your symptoms are wrong for that (GB is numbness). It was just an example that I remembered,
nothing more.
But an autoimmune response is not a normal immune response. it is an over-response.
It's possible to suppress it, but back in the COVID era, it took quite a while
before they figured out what treatment was in the right ballpark for such a situation.
You may remember, the original COVID filled the lungs with fluid, and I think that's
partially the body attacking its own lung tissue. At the time, someone wanted to
suppress the response (stop the lungs filling with fluid), and there were
a few theories as to which of several compounds might work. But that was a research topic, and by the time they had sorted through the information,
the COVID had mutated to a different set of symptoms. You might notice today, there are no longer descriptions of the old treatment practices anywhere in the news.
But in any case, there is more than one compound to suppress the response. There are drugs that are a general suppression of immunity, where there
is an increased risk of you picking up diseases while out in public.
There are also compounds, that don't have quite the same broad spectrum response. My brother is immune suppressed (I think it might be a triangular shaped compound), yet he doesn't have the same risk of picking up stuff in public. His treatment is for rheumatoid arthritis.
Your symptoms on the other hand, seem almost similar to shingles. But that
is not joint pain. I think Shingles is a skin-level pain.
"Most people with shingles experience a localised band of pain in the
affected area. The pain may be a constant, dull or burning sensation
and its intensity can vary from mild to severe. You may have sharp
stabbing pains from time to time, and the affected area of skin will
usually be tender."
The second Shingrex of course, is the one that is a rat bastard. It
was in my case (arm did not swell on first one, arm definitely ballooned up on the second one).
And we know this isn't it, because this is a description way lower on
the pain scale. This isn't a nerve sheath pain. Just pressure from imflammation on a joint.
https://www.healthline.com/health/shingrix-side-effects-second-dose#muscle-pain
"Joint pain
Joint pain, also called arthralgia, is a potential side effect of Shingrix
that commonly occurs with muscle pain. This type of pain after a vaccine is
generally due to a temporary increase in inflammation, which can affect the
fluid around the joints.
Like muscle pain, taking an OTC pain reliever can help reduce joint pain
from the vaccine."
I tried the same kind of searches on flu vaccine, and they mention the stirring up of arthritis. But again, that's not the description of yours.
You are on fire, and I'm not getting a good match for that.
I hope for your sake, a "pain clinic" has the right kind of specialist
for this. You need an internal medicine specialist who knows about
autoimmune responses.
"Here are some specialists who treat autoimmune diseases:
Nephrologist. A doctor who treats kidney problems, such as inflamed kidneys caused by lupus.
Rheumatologist. A doctor who treats arthritis and other rheumatic diseases, such as scleroderma and lupus.
Endocrinologist. A doctor who treats gland and hormone problems, such as diabetes and thyroid disease.
Neurologist. A doctor who treats nerve problems, such as multiple sclerosis and myasthenia gravis.
Hematologist. A doctor who treats diseases that affect blood, such as some forms of anemia.
Gastroenterologist. A doctor who treats problems with the digestive system, such as inflammatory bowel disease.
Dermatologist. A doctor who treats diseases that affect the skin, hair, and nails, such as psoriasis and lupus.
Physical therapist. A health care worker who uses proper types of physical activity to help patients
with stiffness, weakness, and restricted body movement.
"
So maybe that is who you will be seeing, is a neurologist ?
Paul
I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,..
it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning
to see if it will help.
Robert
Completed mrimgs , computers are running well
780
https://postimg.cc/ThK2qGCB
8500
https://postimg.cc/DST2TGnK
I had a heart attack and spent 3 days in ICU at the VA from the 8-10th of this month and then a week later I saw my primary doctor for my annual checkup and got my flu and shingles shots. Unfortunately, I had a allergic reaction to the flu shot andmy hands and feet swelled up and had pins and needles pain, and itchy hives. I also had a reaction to the shingles and all my joints are screaming in pain,... I'm on medication but will run out soon. I've been to the ER (4) times since the ICU and have a
So lots of pain,......
Robert
On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,..
it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning
to see if it will help.
Robert
But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.
It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.
Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms.
I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,..
it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning
to see if it will help.
Robert
But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.
It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.
Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms.
I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.
Paul
Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
the pain,.
I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
who can help. The ER was a joke,..
Robert
On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,..
it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning
to see if it will help.
Robert
But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.
It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.
Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms.
I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.
Paul
Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
the pain,.
I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
who can help. The ER was a joke,..
Robert
I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.
In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
disease they had before.
A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral
and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve,
and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.
In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was indirectly affecting your immune system.
Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system. Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.
Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence.
A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might
be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.
Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
or someone passing away.
The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage" when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing.
It will take time for (natural) recovery.
A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your
second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles, it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a
robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.
It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you
only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
and would still leave you vulnerable.
I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus
of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets,
that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't
go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before.
Paul
On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,..
it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning
to see if it will help.
Robert
But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.
It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.
Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms.
I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.
Paul
Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
the pain,.
I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
who can help. The ER was a joke,..
Robert
I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.
In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
disease they had before.
A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral
and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve,
and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.
In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was indirectly affecting your immune system.
Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system. Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.
Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence.
A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might
be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.
Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
or someone passing away.
The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage" when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing.
It will take time for (natural) recovery.
A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your
second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles, it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a
robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.
It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you
only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
and would still leave you vulnerable.
I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus
of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets,
that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't
go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>> to see if it will help.
Robert
But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.
It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.
Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms.
I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.
Paul
Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
the pain,.
I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
who can help. The ER was a joke,..
Robert
I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.
In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
disease they had before.
A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral
and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff.
Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve,
and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.
In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack
which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was
indirectly affecting your immune system.
Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system. >> Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping >> point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point.
Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.
Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence.
A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might
be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.
Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
or someone passing away.
The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage" >> when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing.
It will take time for (natural) recovery.
A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your
second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles, >> it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a
robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.
It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you
only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
and would still leave you vulnerable.
I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus
of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets,
that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not
communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't
go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before.
Paul
I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
it.
The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
at the same time.
I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.
I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
medication will work.
Robert
On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>> to see if it will help.
Robert
But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.
It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.
Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>
I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.
Paul
Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
the pain,.
I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
who can help. The ER was a joke,..
Robert
I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.
In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
disease they had before.
A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral
and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.
In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was
indirectly affecting your immune system.
Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.
Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence.
A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might
be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.
Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
or someone passing away.
The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.
A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your
second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles, >>> it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a
robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.
It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you
only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
and would still leave you vulnerable.
I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus
of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets,
that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not
communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't
go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before.
Paul
I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
it.
The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
at the same time.
I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.
I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
medication will work.
Robert
allergist
Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
(any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
year or not.
An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
to understand that, because it may indicate something about
my immune system.
There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
*catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
of being eradicated.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>>> to see if it will help.
Robert
But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.
It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.
Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>>
I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.
Paul
Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
the pain,.
I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
who can help. The ER was a joke,..
Robert
I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.
In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
disease they had before.
A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral
and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.
In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was
indirectly affecting your immune system.
Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.
Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence. >>>> A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might >>>> be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.
Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
or someone passing away.
The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.
A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your >>>> second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles, >>>> it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a
robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.
It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you >>>> only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
and would still leave you vulnerable.
I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus
of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets,
that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not
communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't >>>> go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before.
Paul
I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
it.
The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
at the same time.
I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.
I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
medication will work.
Robert
allergist
Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
(any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
year or not.
An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
to understand that, because it may indicate something about
my immune system.
There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
*catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
of being eradicated.
Paul
Well at this point I am just taking the first steps,.. they never start
you on what really works but instead start with Tylenol and baby
aspirin and the like then work their way up. The allergist was suggested
by the doctor because he wasn't sure what I'm reacting to either the
flu shot or the shingle shot and I suppose that helps determine the treatment/ medication. He also saw that my primary put both down
on my chart that I'm allergic to because I told him I never want to go through this again. No appointment has been made yet though.
I'm doubling my dosage starting tomorrow according to the prescription
and have a phone appointment next Wednesday to see if its working or
they need to try something else. I'm using ice packs to help numb the pain and I go back to the VA today for a CT scan and again next week for a vascular test.
Also I may get an ipad out of the deal for free paid by the VA so its not
all bad although I don't know how to use them.
btw on SeaMonkey page it says were using an older version 2.53.1.2 and
a newer version is available 2.53.19 however I'm very leery of changing things because we might loose our connection. Also since you haven't
mention it I assume were OK as is, correct?
Robert
On Sun, 11/17/2024 6:19 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>>>> to see if it will help.
Robert
But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.
It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.
Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>>>
I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.
Paul
Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
the pain,.
I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
who can help. The ER was a joke,..
Robert
I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.
In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
disease they had before.
A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral >>>>> and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>>>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>>>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.
In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>>>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was >>>>> indirectly affecting your immune system.
Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>>>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.
Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence. >>>>> A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might >>>>> be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.
Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
or someone passing away.
The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>>>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.
A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your >>>>> second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles,
it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a >>>>> robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.
It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you >>>>> only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
and would still leave you vulnerable.
I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus >>>>> of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets, >>>>> that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not >>>>> communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't >>>>> go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before. >>>>>
Paul
I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
it.
The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
at the same time.
I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.
I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
medication will work.
Robert
allergist
Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
(any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
year or not.
An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
to understand that, because it may indicate something about
my immune system.
There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
*catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
of being eradicated.
Paul
Well at this point I am just taking the first steps,.. they never start
you on what really works but instead start with Tylenol and baby
aspirin and the like then work their way up. The allergist was suggested
by the doctor because he wasn't sure what I'm reacting to either the
flu shot or the shingle shot and I suppose that helps determine the
treatment/ medication. He also saw that my primary put both down
on my chart that I'm allergic to because I told him I never want to go
through this again. No appointment has been made yet though.
I'm doubling my dosage starting tomorrow according to the prescription
and have a phone appointment next Wednesday to see if its working or
they need to try something else. I'm using ice packs to help numb the pain >> and I go back to the VA today for a CT scan and again next week for a
vascular test.
Also I may get an ipad out of the deal for free paid by the VA so its not
all bad although I don't know how to use them.
btw on SeaMonkey page it says were using an older version 2.53.1.2 and
a newer version is available 2.53.19 however I'm very leery of changing
things because we might loose our connection. Also since you haven't
mention it I assume were OK as is, correct?
Robert
I'm currently using Seamonkey 2.53.19 . I use the browser a lot during the day.
The iPad will be loads of fun. I wonder what Apple software they
badly want to run, to give you one of those ? Does it have a camera
for video conferencing ? You might need a router having Wifi,
to get a network connection. I don't know if an iPad has Ethernet.
I'm just surprised with your history and symptoms, they don't have
a "prime candidate" for your medical condition. My doctors have
always been quick to jump to conclusions without evidence :-)
Paul
On Sun, 11/17/2024 6:19 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>>>> to see if it will help.
Robert
But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.
It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.
Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>>>
I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.
Paul
Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
the pain,.
I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
who can help. The ER was a joke,..
Robert
I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.
In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
disease they had before.
A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral >>>>> and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>>>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>>>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.
In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>>>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was >>>>> indirectly affecting your immune system.
Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>>>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.
Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence. >>>>> A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might >>>>> be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.
Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
or someone passing away.
The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>>>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.
A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your >>>>> second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles,
it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a >>>>> robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.
It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you >>>>> only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
and would still leave you vulnerable.
I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus >>>>> of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets, >>>>> that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not >>>>> communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't >>>>> go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before. >>>>>
Paul
I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
it.
The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
at the same time.
I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.
I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
medication will work.
Robert
allergist
Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
(any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
year or not.
An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
to understand that, because it may indicate something about
my immune system.
There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
*catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
of being eradicated.
Paul
Well at this point I am just taking the first steps,.. they never start
you on what really works but instead start with Tylenol and baby
aspirin and the like then work their way up. The allergist was suggested
by the doctor because he wasn't sure what I'm reacting to either the
flu shot or the shingle shot and I suppose that helps determine the
treatment/ medication. He also saw that my primary put both down
on my chart that I'm allergic to because I told him I never want to go
through this again. No appointment has been made yet though.
I'm doubling my dosage starting tomorrow according to the prescription
and have a phone appointment next Wednesday to see if its working or
they need to try something else. I'm using ice packs to help numb the pain >> and I go back to the VA today for a CT scan and again next week for a
vascular test.
Also I may get an ipad out of the deal for free paid by the VA so its not
all bad although I don't know how to use them.
btw on SeaMonkey page it says were using an older version 2.53.1.2 and
a newer version is available 2.53.19 however I'm very leery of changing
things because we might loose our connection. Also since you haven't
mention it I assume were OK as is, correct?
Robert
I'm currently using Seamonkey 2.53.19 . I use the browser a lot during the day.
The iPad will be loads of fun. I wonder what Apple software they
badly want to run, to give you one of those ? Does it have a camera
for video conferencing ? You might need a router having Wifi,
to get a network connection. I don't know if an iPad has Ethernet.
I'm just surprised with your history and symptoms, they don't have
a "prime candidate" for your medical condition. My doctors have
always been quick to jump to conclusions without evidence :-)
Paul
On Sun, 11/17/2024 6:19 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>>>> to see if it will help.
Robert
But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.
It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.
Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>>>
I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.
Paul
Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
the pain,.
I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
who can help. The ER was a joke,..
Robert
I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.
In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
disease they had before.
A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral >>>>> and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>>>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>>>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.
In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>>>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was >>>>> indirectly affecting your immune system.
Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>>>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.
Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence. >>>>> A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might >>>>> be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.
Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
or someone passing away.
The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>>>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.
A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your >>>>> second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles,
it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a >>>>> robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.
It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you >>>>> only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
and would still leave you vulnerable.
I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus >>>>> of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets, >>>>> that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not >>>>> communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't >>>>> go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before. >>>>>
Paul
I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
it.
The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
at the same time.
I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.
I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
medication will work.
Robert
allergist
Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
(any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
year or not.
An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
to understand that, because it may indicate something about
my immune system.
There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
*catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
of being eradicated.
Paul
Well at this point I am just taking the first steps,.. they never start
you on what really works but instead start with Tylenol and baby
aspirin and the like then work their way up. The allergist was suggested
by the doctor because he wasn't sure what I'm reacting to either the
flu shot or the shingle shot and I suppose that helps determine the
treatment/ medication. He also saw that my primary put both down
on my chart that I'm allergic to because I told him I never want to go
through this again. No appointment has been made yet though.
I'm doubling my dosage starting tomorrow according to the prescription
and have a phone appointment next Wednesday to see if its working or
they need to try something else. I'm using ice packs to help numb the pain >> and I go back to the VA today for a CT scan and again next week for a
vascular test.
Also I may get an ipad out of the deal for free paid by the VA so its not
all bad although I don't know how to use them.
btw on SeaMonkey page it says were using an older version 2.53.1.2 and
a newer version is available 2.53.19 however I'm very leery of changing
things because we might loose our connection. Also since you haven't
mention it I assume were OK as is, correct?
Robert
I'm currently using Seamonkey 2.53.19 . I use the browser a lot during the day.
The iPad will be loads of fun. I wonder what Apple software they
badly want to run, to give you one of those ? Does it have a camera
for video conferencing ? You might need a router having Wifi,
to get a network connection. I don't know if an iPad has Ethernet.
I'm just surprised with your history and symptoms, they don't have
a "prime candidate" for your medical condition. My doctors have
always been quick to jump to conclusions without evidence :-)
Paul
On Sun, 11/17/2024 6:19 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>>>> to see if it will help.
Robert
But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.
It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.
Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>>>
I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.
Paul
Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
the pain,.
I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
who can help. The ER was a joke,..
Robert
I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.
In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
disease they had before.
A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral >>>>> and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>>>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>>>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.
In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>>>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was >>>>> indirectly affecting your immune system.
Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>>>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.
Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence. >>>>> A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might >>>>> be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.
Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
or someone passing away.
The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>>>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.
A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your >>>>> second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles,
it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a >>>>> robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.
It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you >>>>> only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
and would still leave you vulnerable.
I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus >>>>> of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets, >>>>> that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not >>>>> communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't >>>>> go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before. >>>>>
Paul
I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
it.
The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
at the same time.
I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.
I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
medication will work.
Robert
allergist
Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
(any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
year or not.
An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
to understand that, because it may indicate something about
my immune system.
There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
*catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
of being eradicated.
Paul
Well at this point I am just taking the first steps,.. they never start
you on what really works but instead start with Tylenol and baby
aspirin and the like then work their way up. The allergist was suggested
by the doctor because he wasn't sure what I'm reacting to either the
flu shot or the shingle shot and I suppose that helps determine the
treatment/ medication. He also saw that my primary put both down
on my chart that I'm allergic to because I told him I never want to go
through this again. No appointment has been made yet though.
I'm doubling my dosage starting tomorrow according to the prescription
and have a phone appointment next Wednesday to see if its working or
they need to try something else. I'm using ice packs to help numb the pain >> and I go back to the VA today for a CT scan and again next week for a
vascular test.
Also I may get an ipad out of the deal for free paid by the VA so its not
all bad although I don't know how to use them.
btw on SeaMonkey page it says were using an older version 2.53.1.2 and
a newer version is available 2.53.19 however I'm very leery of changing
things because we might loose our connection. Also since you haven't
mention it I assume were OK as is, correct?
Robert
I'm currently using Seamonkey 2.53.19 . I use the browser a lot during the day.
The iPad will be loads of fun. I wonder what Apple software they
badly want to run, to give you one of those ? Does it have a camera
for video conferencing ? You might need a router having Wifi,
to get a network connection. I don't know if an iPad has Ethernet.
I'm just surprised with your history and symptoms, they don't have
a "prime candidate" for your medical condition. My doctors have
always been quick to jump to conclusions without evidence :-)
Paul
On Sun, 11/17/2024 6:19 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>>>> to see if it will help.
Robert
But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.
It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.
Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>>>
I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.
Paul
Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
the pain,.
I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
who can help. The ER was a joke,..
Robert
I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.
In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
disease they had before.
A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral >>>>> and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>>>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>>>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.
In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>>>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was >>>>> indirectly affecting your immune system.
Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>>>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.
Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence. >>>>> A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might >>>>> be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.
Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
or someone passing away.
The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>>>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.
A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your >>>>> second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles,
it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a >>>>> robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.
It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you >>>>> only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
and would still leave you vulnerable.
I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus >>>>> of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets, >>>>> that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not >>>>> communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't >>>>> go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before. >>>>>
Paul
I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
it.
The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
at the same time.
I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.
I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
medication will work.
Robert
allergist
Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
(any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
year or not.
An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
to understand that, because it may indicate something about
my immune system.
There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
*catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
of being eradicated.
Paul
Well at this point I am just taking the first steps,.. they never start
you on what really works but instead start with Tylenol and baby
aspirin and the like then work their way up. The allergist was suggested
by the doctor because he wasn't sure what I'm reacting to either the
flu shot or the shingle shot and I suppose that helps determine the
treatment/ medication. He also saw that my primary put both down
on my chart that I'm allergic to because I told him I never want to go
through this again. No appointment has been made yet though.
I'm doubling my dosage starting tomorrow according to the prescription
and have a phone appointment next Wednesday to see if its working or
they need to try something else. I'm using ice packs to help numb the pain >> and I go back to the VA today for a CT scan and again next week for a
vascular test.
Also I may get an ipad out of the deal for free paid by the VA so its not
all bad although I don't know how to use them.
btw on SeaMonkey page it says were using an older version 2.53.1.2 and
a newer version is available 2.53.19 however I'm very leery of changing
things because we might loose our connection. Also since you haven't
mention it I assume were OK as is, correct?
Robert
I'm currently using Seamonkey 2.53.19 . I use the browser a lot during the day.
The iPad will be loads of fun. I wonder what Apple software they
badly want to run, to give you one of those ? Does it have a camera
for video conferencing ? You might need a router having Wifi,
to get a network connection. I don't know if an iPad has Ethernet.
I'm just surprised with your history and symptoms, they don't have
a "prime candidate" for your medical condition. My doctors have
always been quick to jump to conclusions without evidence :-)
Paul
On Sun, 11/17/2024 6:19 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>>>> to see if it will help.
Robert
But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.
It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.
Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>>>
I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.
Paul
Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
the pain,.
I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
who can help. The ER was a joke,..
Robert
I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.
In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
disease they had before.
A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral >>>>> and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>>>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>>>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.
In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>>>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was >>>>> indirectly affecting your immune system.
Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>>>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.
Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence. >>>>> A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might >>>>> be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.
Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
or someone passing away.
The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>>>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.
A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your >>>>> second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles,
it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a >>>>> robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.
It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you >>>>> only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
and would still leave you vulnerable.
I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus >>>>> of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets, >>>>> that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not >>>>> communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't >>>>> go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before. >>>>>
Paul
I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
it.
The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
at the same time.
I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.
I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
medication will work.
Robert
allergist
Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
(any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
year or not.
An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
to understand that, because it may indicate something about
my immune system.
There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
*catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
of being eradicated.
Paul
Well at this point I am just taking the first steps,.. they never start
you on what really works but instead start with Tylenol and baby
aspirin and the like then work their way up. The allergist was suggested
by the doctor because he wasn't sure what I'm reacting to either the
flu shot or the shingle shot and I suppose that helps determine the
treatment/ medication. He also saw that my primary put both down
on my chart that I'm allergic to because I told him I never want to go
through this again. No appointment has been made yet though.
I'm doubling my dosage starting tomorrow according to the prescription
and have a phone appointment next Wednesday to see if its working or
they need to try something else. I'm using ice packs to help numb the pain >> and I go back to the VA today for a CT scan and again next week for a
vascular test.
Also I may get an ipad out of the deal for free paid by the VA so its not
all bad although I don't know how to use them.
btw on SeaMonkey page it says were using an older version 2.53.1.2 and
a newer version is available 2.53.19 however I'm very leery of changing
things because we might loose our connection. Also since you haven't
mention it I assume were OK as is, correct?
Robert
I'm currently using Seamonkey 2.53.19 . I use the browser a lot during the day.
The iPad will be loads of fun. I wonder what Apple software they
badly want to run, to give you one of those ? Does it have a camera
for video conferencing ? You might need a router having Wifi,
to get a network connection. I don't know if an iPad has Ethernet.
I'm just surprised with your history and symptoms, they don't have
a "prime candidate" for your medical condition. My doctors have
always been quick to jump to conclusions without evidence :-)
Paul
This is a test on the 780 to see if the 2.53.19 works,..
I tried to get the solani account working but it hangs up
in managaing accounts. I type in microsoft.public.windowsxp.g
and nothing happens. What am I doing wrong? This is just what
I feared would happen.
Robert
I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?
At any rate it seems to have worked.
Robert
This is a test, for Solani
apparently it works but I have to enter
a name and password for it on the 780.
'
Robert
I clicked the download for 2.53.19 on the 780 and I was able to download
the newer version of Seamonkey but I lost Solani in the process.
I had forgotten all I had to do to create a new account,.. very stressful, but I
had saved your links on how to do it but when I entered micosroft.public.windowsxp.g it gave me nothing. I must be doing something wrong.
It does show Solani but it's all wrong and only goes to 1055 and did not
give me a chance to increase it to 2000. I right clicked it to see if it would
give me any options to managing the account.
https://postimg.cc/yDLLMVrz
https://postimg.cc/hzDTcxJy
So for the present I'm not going to change the 8500 because this is just what I feared would happen. I also noticed I have another Seamonkey account on the 8500 that I don't remember installing nntp.aioe.general very strange,...
https://postimg.cc/8s34BKfT
Robert
On Sat, 11/23/2024 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?
At any rate it seems to have worked.
Robert
I have not noticed that happening. The zoom via scroll wheel
has worked on the machines here when I've tested it.
Paul
On Sat, 11/23/2024 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?
At any rate it seems to have worked.
Robert
I have not noticed that happening. The zoom via scroll wheel
has worked on the machines here when I've tested it.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 11/23/2024 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?
At any rate it seems to have worked.
Robert
I have not noticed that happening. The zoom via scroll wheel
has worked on the machines here when I've tested it.
Paul
Happy Thanksgiving
I bought a cell phone a Straight Talk HMD from Walmart
I still have to activate it with pin numbers and hope
this will suffice for the VA and that I will still be
able to use my landline phone as my primary.
Robert
On Thu, 11/28/2024 6:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 11/23/2024 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?
At any rate it seems to have worked.
Robert
I have not noticed that happening. The zoom via scroll wheel
has worked on the machines here when I've tested it.
Paul
Happy Thanksgiving
I bought a cell phone a Straight Talk HMD from Walmart
I still have to activate it with pin numbers and hope
this will suffice for the VA and that I will still be
able to use my landline phone as my primary.
Robert
It lists LTE, so it'll probably work. Sometimes with bargains,
the item is a bargain because it's no longer compatible with
the cell towers or something.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/186153566057
Operating System Android
RAM 3 GB
I guess that's a smartphone and not a flip phone,
judging by the icons. I think one of the icons is Chrome.
Paul
On Thu, 11/28/2024 6:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 11/23/2024 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?
At any rate it seems to have worked.
Robert
I have not noticed that happening. The zoom via scroll wheel
has worked on the machines here when I've tested it.
Paul
Happy Thanksgiving
I bought a cell phone a Straight Talk HMD from Walmart
I still have to activate it with pin numbers and hope
this will suffice for the VA and that I will still be
able to use my landline phone as my primary.
Robert
It lists LTE, so it'll probably work. Sometimes with bargains,
the item is a bargain because it's no longer compatible with
the cell towers or something.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/186153566057
Operating System Android
RAM 3 GB
I guess that's a smartphone and not a flip phone,
judging by the icons. I think one of the icons is Chrome.
Paul
On Thu, 11/28/2024 6:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 11/23/2024 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?
At any rate it seems to have worked.
Robert
I have not noticed that happening. The zoom via scroll wheel
has worked on the machines here when I've tested it.
Paul
Happy Thanksgiving
I bought a cell phone a Straight Talk HMD from Walmart
I still have to activate it with pin numbers and hope
this will suffice for the VA and that I will still be
able to use my landline phone as my primary.
Robert
It lists LTE, so it'll probably work. Sometimes with bargains,
the item is a bargain because it's no longer compatible with
the cell towers or something.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/186153566057
Operating System Android
RAM 3 GB
I guess that's a smartphone and not a flip phone,
judging by the icons. I think one of the icons is Chrome.
Paul
On Thu, 11/28/2024 6:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 11/23/2024 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?
At any rate it seems to have worked.
Robert
I have not noticed that happening. The zoom via scroll wheel
has worked on the machines here when I've tested it.
Paul
Happy Thanksgiving
I bought a cell phone a Straight Talk HMD from Walmart
I still have to activate it with pin numbers and hope
this will suffice for the VA and that I will still be
able to use my landline phone as my primary.
Robert
It lists LTE, so it'll probably work. Sometimes with bargains,
the item is a bargain because it's no longer compatible with
the cell towers or something.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/186153566057
Operating System Android
RAM 3 GB
I guess that's a smartphone and not a flip phone,
judging by the icons. I think one of the icons is Chrome.
Paul
I got the cell phone working and can call and text
but what a pain in the ass!
Anyways,.. I have the basic cell phone application
for the VA phone and texting,.. I don't care about
the rest.
Robert
On Mon, 12/2/2024 1:51 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I got the cell phone working and can call and text
but what a pain in the ass!
Anyways,.. I have the basic cell phone application
for the VA phone and texting,.. I don't care about
the rest.
Robert
That's some good work there.
That's better than I could do.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 12/2/2024 1:51 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I got the cell phone working and can call and text
but what a pain in the ass!
Anyways,.. I have the basic cell phone application
for the VA phone and texting,.. I don't care about
the rest.
Robert
That's some good work there.
That's better than I could do.
Paul
My cell phone I bought wasn't charging,. so I had to replace it and it was a nightmare setting it up again and I still don't know if the damn thing is charging. I mean there's no indicators or anything. I mean how long does it take 1 hr ? 24 hrs? there's no way to tell? I have to remove the phone to check it but I did that with the other phone and it said it was 100% but it wasn't. I have battery chargers that have light indicators that turn green when its charged yet these phones do not have that.
I have the call and text working but man,..I spent over an hour and had to go through 2 people to get it to work.
Robert
On Tue, 12/3/2024 9:01 PM, RobnCA wrote:there's no way to tell? I have to remove the phone to check it but I did that with the other phone and it said it was 100% but it wasn't. I have battery chargers that have light indicators that turn green when its charged yet these phones do not have
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 12/2/2024 1:51 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I got the cell phone working and can call and text
but what a pain in the ass!
Anyways,.. I have the basic cell phone application
for the VA phone and texting,.. I don't care about
the rest.
Robert
That's some good work there.
That's better than I could do.
Paul
My cell phone I bought wasn't charging,. so I had to replace it and it was a nightmare setting it up again and I still don't know if the damn thing is charging. I mean there's no indicators or anything. I mean how long does it take 1 hr ? 24 hrs?
I have the call and text working but man,..I spent over an hour and had to go through 2 people to get it to work.
Robert
https://s7d1.scene7.com/is/image/tracfone/Ph_Front_318x400_N159Vpng?scl=1&fmt=webp-alpha&qlt=80,0&resMode=sharp2&op_usm=1.75,0.3,2,0
Check the upper right corner, for a battery icon.
The picture resolution isn't so good, so I can't tell you how
many bars the battery indicator has. The screen would need
to be on for the battery icon to be visible on the main screen.
The electronics know the percent charge, and showing you "bars"
is not the total accuracy of the fuel gauge system.
Anyway, poke at the icon there, and see if a better popup display
is offered.
Paul
Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left
of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see
if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing.
and typing on it is a nightmare.
My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check
the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.
Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account
with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.
Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any
effect.
Robert
On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:on it is a nightmare.
Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and typing
light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.
My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
charged.
Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.
Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.
Robert
Robert:
A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine whileconnected to the charger.
The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.
I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.
Good Luck.
And so it goes...
John
On Thu, 12/5/2024 8:31 PM, John Dulak wrote:on it is a nightmare.
On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and typing
light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.
My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
charged.
Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.
Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.
Robert
Robert:
A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
connected to the charger.
As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while
The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.
I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.
Good Luck.
And so it goes...
John
Empty 25 50 75 100%
+---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ The materials can be
| | | | | | | | |---| different colors, to
| | | | | | |---| |---| improve the contrast.
| | | | |---| |---| |---|
| | |---| |---| |---| |---| Time, from 25% bar appears
+---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ until 50% appears, as an estimate of "what a bar is worth"
The charge time from 75 to 100, takes
about as long as the time from 0-75.
Which is why you may not be waiting for
it to hit 100 each time.
The measurement circuit has much higher
accuracy than that. Using the bars scheme
is for simplicity. A lot of devices
with Lithium cells, they present a figure
like "89%" instead of using bars.
Paul
On Thu, 12/5/2024 8:31 PM, John Dulak wrote:on it is a nightmare.
On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and typing
light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.
My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
charged.
Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.
Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.
Robert
Robert:
A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
connected to the charger.
As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while
The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.
I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.
Good Luck.
And so it goes...
John
Empty 25 50 75 100%
+---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ The materials can be
| | | | | | | | |---| different colors, to
| | | | | | |---| |---| improve the contrast.
| | | | |---| |---| |---|
| | |---| |---| |---| |---| Time, from 25% bar appears
+---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ until 50% appears, as an estimate of "what a bar is worth"
The charge time from 75 to 100, takes
about as long as the time from 0-75.
Which is why you may not be waiting for
it to hit 100 each time.
The measurement circuit has much higher
accuracy than that. Using the bars scheme
is for simplicity. A lot of devices
with Lithium cells, they present a figure
like "89%" instead of using bars.
Paul
On Thu, 12/5/2024 8:31 PM, John Dulak wrote:on it is a nightmare.
On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and typing
light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.
My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
charged.
Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.
Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.
Robert
Robert:
A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
connected to the charger.
As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while
The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.
I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.
Good Luck.
And so it goes...
John
Empty 25 50 75 100%
+---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ The materials can be
| | | | | | | | |---| different colors, to
| | | | | | |---| |---| improve the contrast.
| | | | |---| |---| |---|
| | |---| |---| |---| |---| Time, from 25% bar appears
+---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ until 50% appears, as an estimate of "what a bar is worth"
The charge time from 75 to 100, takes
about as long as the time from 0-75.
Which is why you may not be waiting for
it to hit 100 each time.
The measurement circuit has much higher
accuracy than that. Using the bars scheme
is for simplicity. A lot of devices
with Lithium cells, they present a figure
like "89%" instead of using bars.
Paul
Paul wrote:on it is a nightmare.
On Thu, 12/5/2024 8:31 PM, John Dulak wrote:
On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and typing
light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.
My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
charged.
Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.
Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.
Robert
Robert:
A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
connected to the charger.
As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while
The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.
I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.
Good Luck.
And so it goes...
John
Empty 25 50 75 100%
+---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ The materials can be
| | | | | | | | |---| different colors, to
| | | | | | |---| |---| improve the contrast.
| | | | |---| |---| |---|
| | |---| |---| |---| |---| Time, from 25% bar appears
+---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ until 50% appears, as an estimate of "what a bar is worth"
The charge time from 75 to 100, takes
about as long as the time from 0-75.
Which is why you may not be waiting for
it to hit 100 each time.
The measurement circuit has much higher
accuracy than that. Using the bars scheme
is for simplicity. A lot of devices
with Lithium cells, they present a figure
like "89%" instead of using bars.
Paul
I successfully installed my email account on
the cell phone and also will be getting a ipad
strictly for VA tell conf purposes and if not
used in 6 months I'm supposed to give it back.
https://postimg.cc/FdjM1Yqj
https://postimg.cc/GTK6JZbt
Should I make my account in sync? Using a cell
phone takes some getting use to and they provide
no instruction booklet for all the icons and how
to use them. It shows how far out of touch
I am.
Thanks,
Robert
On Tue, 12/10/2024 2:44 PM, Robert in CA wrote:typing on it is a nightmare.
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 12/5/2024 8:31 PM, John Dulak wrote:
On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and
light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.
My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
charged.
Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.
Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.
Robert
Robert:
A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
connected to the charger.
As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while
The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.
I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.
Good Luck.
And so it goes...
John
Empty 25 50 75 100%
+---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ The materials can be
| | | | | | | | |---| different colors, to >>> | | | | | | |---| |---| improve the contrast.
| | | | |---| |---| |---|
| | |---| |---| |---| |---| Time, from 25% bar appears >>> +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ until 50% appears, as an estimate of "what a bar is worth"
The charge time from 75 to 100, takes
about as long as the time from 0-75.
Which is why you may not be waiting for
it to hit 100 each time.
The measurement circuit has much higher
accuracy than that. Using the bars scheme
is for simplicity. A lot of devices
with Lithium cells, they present a figure
like "89%" instead of using bars.
Paul
I successfully installed my email account on
the cell phone and also will be getting a ipad
strictly for VA tell conf purposes and if not
used in 6 months I'm supposed to give it back.
https://postimg.cc/FdjM1Yqj
https://postimg.cc/GTK6JZbt
Should I make my account in sync? Using a cell
phone takes some getting use to and they provide
no instruction booklet for all the icons and how
to use them. It shows how far out of touch
I am.
Thanks,
Robert
They don't really explain here, why you need Account Sync.
This is only a guess. Maybe a part of it, is so the
settings don't get lost. Like if the phone is lost,
and you acquire another phone, some of the materials
you used to use, would still be available.
https://support.google.com/pixelphone/answer/2840875
And a teleconference with a phone, while that's technically
possible, not all the phones will have a good camera. A thousand
dollar phone with five cameras... likely one of those cameras
works.
I have done a few teleconferences with my desktop, but
I used the Windows 7 desktop for that, and my webcam
that I use (a USB one), is a lot better than the camera
in my laptop. Some of these cameras are little better
than a "thing to fill the hole" in the device. The one in
the laptop is dark.
That's why, for teleconference usage, you need to
test (somehow) that the hardware gives good results.
It wasn't that easy, the few times I had to test, to get
any sort of idea it was OK.
My webcam has a pan and zoom in Windows 7, so for a
teleconference I can sit in my chair, put the camera in
one spot, then crop off the parts of the image I don't
want, so I'm "centered" in the window the doctor sees.
If I had done the session in Windows 10, the software
doesn't work, so I have to squirm around in the chair
to get centered :-) That's one reason for using Windows 7,
as the software still works properly there.
Phones are generally a lot better at this stuff, so I don't
think you will have too much to worry about.
******
Hope your pain condition is subsiding, even if the doctors
don't really know what to do about it.
Paul
On Tue, 12/10/2024 2:44 PM, Robert in CA wrote:typing on it is a nightmare.
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 12/5/2024 8:31 PM, John Dulak wrote:
On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and
light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.
My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
charged.
Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.
Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.
Robert
Robert:
A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
connected to the charger.
As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while
The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.
I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.
Good Luck.
And so it goes...
John
Empty 25 50 75 100%
+---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ The materials can be
| | | | | | | | |---| different colors, to >>> | | | | | | |---| |---| improve the contrast.
| | | | |---| |---| |---|
| | |---| |---| |---| |---| Time, from 25% bar appears >>> +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ until 50% appears, as an estimate of "what a bar is worth"
The charge time from 75 to 100, takes
about as long as the time from 0-75.
Which is why you may not be waiting for
it to hit 100 each time.
The measurement circuit has much higher
accuracy than that. Using the bars scheme
is for simplicity. A lot of devices
with Lithium cells, they present a figure
like "89%" instead of using bars.
Paul
I successfully installed my email account on
the cell phone and also will be getting a ipad
strictly for VA tell conf purposes and if not
used in 6 months I'm supposed to give it back.
https://postimg.cc/FdjM1Yqj
https://postimg.cc/GTK6JZbt
Should I make my account in sync? Using a cell
phone takes some getting use to and they provide
no instruction booklet for all the icons and how
to use them. It shows how far out of touch
I am.
Thanks,
Robert
They don't really explain here, why you need Account Sync.
This is only a guess. Maybe a part of it, is so the
settings don't get lost. Like if the phone is lost,
and you acquire another phone, some of the materials
you used to use, would still be available.
https://support.google.com/pixelphone/answer/2840875
And a teleconference with a phone, while that's technically
possible, not all the phones will have a good camera. A thousand
dollar phone with five cameras... likely one of those cameras
works.
I have done a few teleconferences with my desktop, but
I used the Windows 7 desktop for that, and my webcam
that I use (a USB one), is a lot better than the camera
in my laptop. Some of these cameras are little better
than a "thing to fill the hole" in the device. The one in
the laptop is dark.
That's why, for teleconference usage, you need to
test (somehow) that the hardware gives good results.
It wasn't that easy, the few times I had to test, to get
any sort of idea it was OK.
My webcam has a pan and zoom in Windows 7, so for a
teleconference I can sit in my chair, put the camera in
one spot, then crop off the parts of the image I don't
want, so I'm "centered" in the window the doctor sees.
If I had done the session in Windows 10, the software
doesn't work, so I have to squirm around in the chair
to get centered :-) That's one reason for using Windows 7,
as the software still works properly there.
Phones are generally a lot better at this stuff, so I don't
think you will have too much to worry about.
******
Hope your pain condition is subsiding, even if the doctors
don't really know what to do about it.
Paul
I went to the VA (4th) time and finally got the cell phone
working with a verified account. When I got home I had a
message waiting from the VA via Yahoo. So I tried
logging into the VA account but much to my surprise and
annoyance it asked for my password and then would text/phone
a 6 digit code to allow entry. It worked OK the first time.
I clicked the remember me box so I wouldn't have to go
through all that again.
Just to check it I logged on later but it didn't remember me
and I text the 6 digit code but it kept coming back as unrecognizable
until I was finally locked out and it wouldn't even accept my
password as being correct. So now I'm locked out of
MyHealthyVet thanks to ID.me. So will have to call their
customer support etc,.. what a hassle this has been just to stay
connected online. Whoever thought up this one!@
Robert
Paul wrote:typing on it is a nightmare.
On Tue, 12/10/2024 2:44 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 12/5/2024 8:31 PM, John Dulak wrote:
On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and
light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.
My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
charged.
Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.
Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.
Robert
Robert:
A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
connected to the charger.
As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while
The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.
I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.
Good Luck.
And so it goes...
John
Empty 25 50 75 100%
+---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ The materials can be
| | | | | | | | |---| different colors, to >>>> | | | | | | |---| |---| improve the contrast. >>>> | | | | |---| |---| |---|
| | |---| |---| |---| |---| Time, from 25% bar appears >>>> +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ until 50% appears, as an estimate of "what a bar is worth"
The charge time from 75 to 100, takes
about as long as the time from 0-75.
Which is why you may not be waiting for
it to hit 100 each time.
The measurement circuit has much higher
accuracy than that. Using the bars scheme
is for simplicity. A lot of devices
with Lithium cells, they present a figure
like "89%" instead of using bars.
Paul
I successfully installed my email account on
the cell phone and also will be getting a ipad
strictly for VA tell conf purposes and if not
used in 6 months I'm supposed to give it back.
https://postimg.cc/FdjM1Yqj
https://postimg.cc/GTK6JZbt
Should I make my account in sync? Using a cell
phone takes some getting use to and they provide
no instruction booklet for all the icons and how
to use them. It shows how far out of touch
I am.
Thanks,
Robert
They don't really explain here, why you need Account Sync.
This is only a guess. Maybe a part of it, is so the
settings don't get lost. Like if the phone is lost,
and you acquire another phone, some of the materials
you used to use, would still be available.
https://support.google.com/pixelphone/answer/2840875
And a teleconference with a phone, while that's technically
possible, not all the phones will have a good camera. A thousand
dollar phone with five cameras... likely one of those cameras
works.
I have done a few teleconferences with my desktop, but
I used the Windows 7 desktop for that, and my webcam
that I use (a USB one), is a lot better than the camera
in my laptop. Some of these cameras are little better
than a "thing to fill the hole" in the device. The one in
the laptop is dark.
That's why, for teleconference usage, you need to
test (somehow) that the hardware gives good results.
It wasn't that easy, the few times I had to test, to get
any sort of idea it was OK.
My webcam has a pan and zoom in Windows 7, so for a
teleconference I can sit in my chair, put the camera in
one spot, then crop off the parts of the image I don't
want, so I'm "centered" in the window the doctor sees.
If I had done the session in Windows 10, the software
doesn't work, so I have to squirm around in the chair
to get centered :-) That's one reason for using Windows 7,
as the software still works properly there.
Phones are generally a lot better at this stuff, so I don't
think you will have too much to worry about.
******
Hope your pain condition is subsiding, even if the doctors
don't really know what to do about it.
Paul
Should I go wi-f-i with my cell phone for the in synch to work?
I'm not really worried about the quality of the ipad. My only
reason for getting it is so I can stay connected online with the VA.
The same is true for the cell phone. I don't plan to use it and only
got it for (1) month. That's where the ipad comes in. It's all being
forced on me by the VA just so I can stay active online. Jeez
I went back for my 3rd time to get my cell phone to work and we
were nearly through it when it asked for verification numbers which
I didn't have. So we had to delete it and we start from scratch next Thurs
The ipad is supposed to have directions on how to use it. I also did find
a manual for the cell phone on how it works but allot to delve into.
I've just been poking around with it but I'm not touching it until I go back to the VA.
The burning nerves finally ended for the most part,. there's still some tingling,. whew! I never want to go through that again.
Thanks,
Robert
On Fri, 12/20/2024 1:53 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I went to the VA (4th) time and finally got the cell phone
working with a verified account. When I got home I had a
message waiting from the VA via Yahoo. So I tried
logging into the VA account but much to my surprise and
annoyance it asked for my password and then would text/phone
a 6 digit code to allow entry. It worked OK the first time.
I clicked the remember me box so I wouldn't have to go
through all that again.
Just to check it I logged on later but it didn't remember me
and I text the 6 digit code but it kept coming back as unrecognizable
until I was finally locked out and it wouldn't even accept my
password as being correct. So now I'm locked out of
MyHealthyVet thanks to ID.me. So will have to call their
customer support etc,.. what a hassle this has been just to stay
connected online. Whoever thought up this one!@
Robert
If it uses 2FA, then you would expect it to use 2FA each time.
You cannot reuse a code from a previous 2FA session. The whole
purpose of generating a new code, is only you could be the
recipient of the code, and by re-doing the procedure, it
proves you are the recipient of the code each time.
Paul
On Fri, 12/20/2024 1:53 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I went to the VA (4th) time and finally got the cell phone
working with a verified account. When I got home I had a
message waiting from the VA via Yahoo. So I tried
logging into the VA account but much to my surprise and
annoyance it asked for my password and then would text/phone
a 6 digit code to allow entry. It worked OK the first time.
I clicked the remember me box so I wouldn't have to go
through all that again.
Just to check it I logged on later but it didn't remember me
and I text the 6 digit code but it kept coming back as unrecognizable
until I was finally locked out and it wouldn't even accept my
password as being correct. So now I'm locked out of
MyHealthyVet thanks to ID.me. So will have to call their
customer support etc,.. what a hassle this has been just to stay
connected online. Whoever thought up this one!@
Robert
If it uses 2FA, then you would expect it to use 2FA each time.
You cannot reuse a code from a previous 2FA session. The whole
purpose of generating a new code, is only you could be the
recipient of the code, and by re-doing the procedure, it
proves you are the recipient of the code each time.
Paul
On Fri, 12/20/2024 1:53 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I went to the VA (4th) time and finally got the cell phone
working with a verified account. When I got home I had a
message waiting from the VA via Yahoo. So I tried
logging into the VA account but much to my surprise and
annoyance it asked for my password and then would text/phone
a 6 digit code to allow entry. It worked OK the first time.
I clicked the remember me box so I wouldn't have to go
through all that again.
Just to check it I logged on later but it didn't remember me
and I text the 6 digit code but it kept coming back as unrecognizable
until I was finally locked out and it wouldn't even accept my
password as being correct. So now I'm locked out of
MyHealthyVet thanks to ID.me. So will have to call their
customer support etc,.. what a hassle this has been just to stay
connected online. Whoever thought up this one!@
Robert
If it uses 2FA, then you would expect it to use 2FA each time.
You cannot reuse a code from a previous 2FA session. The whole
purpose of generating a new code, is only you could be the
recipient of the code, and by re-doing the procedure, it
proves you are the recipient of the code each time.
Paul
On Fri, 12/20/2024 1:53 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I went to the VA (4th) time and finally got the cell phone
working with a verified account. When I got home I had a
message waiting from the VA via Yahoo. So I tried
logging into the VA account but much to my surprise and
annoyance it asked for my password and then would text/phone
a 6 digit code to allow entry. It worked OK the first time.
I clicked the remember me box so I wouldn't have to go
through all that again.
Just to check it I logged on later but it didn't remember me
and I text the 6 digit code but it kept coming back as unrecognizable
until I was finally locked out and it wouldn't even accept my
password as being correct. So now I'm locked out of
MyHealthyVet thanks to ID.me. So will have to call their
customer support etc,.. what a hassle this has been just to stay
connected online. Whoever thought up this one!@
Robert
If it uses 2FA, then you would expect it to use 2FA each time.
You cannot reuse a code from a previous 2FA session. The whole
purpose of generating a new code, is only you could be the
recipient of the code, and by re-doing the procedure, it
proves you are the recipient of the code each time.
Paul
On Fri, 12/20/2024 1:53 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I went to the VA (4th) time and finally got the cell phone
working with a verified account. When I got home I had a
message waiting from the VA via Yahoo. So I tried
logging into the VA account but much to my surprise and
annoyance it asked for my password and then would text/phone
a 6 digit code to allow entry. It worked OK the first time.
I clicked the remember me box so I wouldn't have to go
through all that again.
Just to check it I logged on later but it didn't remember me
and I text the 6 digit code but it kept coming back as unrecognizable
until I was finally locked out and it wouldn't even accept my
password as being correct. So now I'm locked out of
MyHealthyVet thanks to ID.me. So will have to call their
customer support etc,.. what a hassle this has been just to stay
connected online. Whoever thought up this one!@
Robert
If it uses 2FA, then you would expect it to use 2FA each time.
You cannot reuse a code from a previous 2FA session. The whole
purpose of generating a new code, is only you could be the
recipient of the code, and by re-doing the procedure, it
proves you are the recipient of the code each time.
Paul
p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
don't have to use the cell phone anymore.
I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
up.
Robert
On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
don't have to use the cell phone anymore.
I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
up.
Robert
That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
is on an iPad. I assume it has one.
Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
cloud.
For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.
The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.
Paul
On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
don't have to use the cell phone anymore.
I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
up.
Robert
That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
is on an iPad. I assume it has one.
Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
cloud.
For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.
The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.
Paul
On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
don't have to use the cell phone anymore.
I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
up.
Robert
That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
is on an iPad. I assume it has one.
Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
cloud.
For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.
The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
don't have to use the cell phone anymore.
I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
up.
Robert
That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
is on an iPad. I assume it has one.
Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
cloud.
For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.
The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.
Paul
I got a phone call from out of the blue by someone
saying they wanted to help me setup my ipad. I told
him I planned to return the ipad to the VA. He said don't
do that we'll mail you a package to return it to who
sent it.
So will wait for their package in the mail.
I thought you'd be interested.
Robert
On Tue, 12/31/2024 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
don't have to use the cell phone anymore.
I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
up.
Robert
That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
is on an iPad. I assume it has one.
Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
cloud.
For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.
The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.
Paul
I got a phone call from out of the blue by someone
saying they wanted to help me setup my ipad. I told
him I planned to return the ipad to the VA. He said don't
do that we'll mail you a package to return it to who
sent it.
So will wait for their package in the mail.
I thought you'd be interested.
Robert
That's very nice of them to help out like that.
Especially as the label could eliminate the need
to figure out who should receive it. With large organizations
you never know which "shed" to send an item to.
Paul
On Tue, 12/31/2024 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
don't have to use the cell phone anymore.
I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
up.
Robert
That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
is on an iPad. I assume it has one.
Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
cloud.
For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.
The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.
Paul
I got a phone call from out of the blue by someone
saying they wanted to help me setup my ipad. I told
him I planned to return the ipad to the VA. He said don't
do that we'll mail you a package to return it to who
sent it.
So will wait for their package in the mail.
I thought you'd be interested.
Robert
That's very nice of them to help out like that.
Especially as the label could eliminate the need
to figure out who should receive it. With large organizations
you never know which "shed" to send an item to.
Paul
On Tue, 12/31/2024 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
don't have to use the cell phone anymore.
I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
up.
Robert
That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
is on an iPad. I assume it has one.
Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
cloud.
For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.
The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.
Paul
I got a phone call from out of the blue by someone
saying they wanted to help me setup my ipad. I told
him I planned to return the ipad to the VA. He said don't
do that we'll mail you a package to return it to who
sent it.
So will wait for their package in the mail.
I thought you'd be interested.
Robert
That's very nice of them to help out like that.
Especially as the label could eliminate the need
to figure out who should receive it. With large organizations
you never know which "shed" to send an item to.
Paul
On Tue, 12/31/2024 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
don't have to use the cell phone anymore.
I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
up.
Robert
That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
is on an iPad. I assume it has one.
Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
cloud.
For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.
The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.
Paul
I got a phone call from out of the blue by someone
saying they wanted to help me setup my ipad. I told
him I planned to return the ipad to the VA. He said don't
do that we'll mail you a package to return it to who
sent it.
So will wait for their package in the mail.
I thought you'd be interested.
Robert
That's very nice of them to help out like that.
Especially as the label could eliminate the need
to figure out who should receive it. With large organizations
you never know which "shed" to send an item to.
Paul
On Tue, 12/31/2024 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
don't have to use the cell phone anymore.
I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
up.
Robert
That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
is on an iPad. I assume it has one.
Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
cloud.
For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.
The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.
Paul
I got a phone call from out of the blue by someone
saying they wanted to help me setup my ipad. I told
him I planned to return the ipad to the VA. He said don't
do that we'll mail you a package to return it to who
sent it.
So will wait for their package in the mail.
I thought you'd be interested.
Robert
That's very nice of them to help out like that.
Especially as the label could eliminate the need
to figure out who should receive it. With large organizations
you never know which "shed" to send an item to.
Paul
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK
Robert
On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK
Robert
The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
with the write calibration.
If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK
Robert
The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
with the write calibration.
If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.
Paul
Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
Win 10 hd already installed.
Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?
I did however run HD Tune on the 780:
https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq
https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN
https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf
Robert
On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK
Robert
The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
with the write calibration.
If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.
Paul
Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
Win 10 hd already installed.
Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?
I did however run HD Tune on the 780:
https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq
https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN
https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf
Robert
Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.
There are some downward spikes. They're not always
conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
so the backups would not be falling onto the first
four spikes downwards.
The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
above the main line. But maybe that was also present
when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.
HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
with the SMART table there, is it does not include
the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
it's just additional information. For example, one
of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
of the short test, must have been plowing through there.
It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
Pretty low odds.
I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
run here without an issue.
Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
"Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
after an end-to-end disk write.
If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK
Robert
The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
with the write calibration.
If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.
Paul
Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
Win 10 hd already installed.
Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?
I did however run HD Tune on the 780:
https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq
https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN
https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf
Robert
Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.
There are some downward spikes. They're not always
conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
so the backups would not be falling onto the first
four spikes downwards.
The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
above the main line. But maybe that was also present
when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.
HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
with the SMART table there, is it does not include
the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
it's just additional information. For example, one
of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
of the short test, must have been plowing through there.
It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
Pretty low odds.
I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
run here without an issue.
Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
"Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
after an end-to-end disk write.
If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.
Paul
I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
That crop out of nowhere.
The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.
https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5
https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM
https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF
Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?
Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK
Robert
The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
with the write calibration.
If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.
Paul
Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
Win 10 hd already installed.
Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?
I did however run HD Tune on the 780:
https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq
https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN
https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf
Robert
Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.
There are some downward spikes. They're not always
conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
so the backups would not be falling onto the first
four spikes downwards.
The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
above the main line. But maybe that was also present
when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.
HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
with the SMART table there, is it does not include
the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
it's just additional information. For example, one
of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
of the short test, must have been plowing through there.
It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
Pretty low odds.
I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
run here without an issue.
Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
"Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
after an end-to-end disk write.
If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.
Paul
I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
That crop out of nowhere.
The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.
https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5
https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM
https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF
Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?
Thanks,
Robert
On Sat, 1/11/2025 8:50 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK
Robert
The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
with the write calibration.
If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.
Paul
Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
Win 10 hd already installed.
Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?
I did however run HD Tune on the 780:
https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq
https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN
https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf
Robert
Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.
There are some downward spikes. They're not always
conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
so the backups would not be falling onto the first
four spikes downwards.
The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
above the main line. But maybe that was also present
when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.
HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
with the SMART table there, is it does not include
the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
it's just additional information. For example, one
of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
of the short test, must have been plowing through there.
It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
Pretty low odds.
I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
run here without an issue.
Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
"Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
after an end-to-end disk write.
If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.
Paul
I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
That crop out of nowhere.
The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.
https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5
https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM
https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF
Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?
Thanks,
Robert
OK, there's a wide spike down near the end.
That is probably for real. If your backups fell in
that area, you might have noticed the backup took longer
than normal.
To benchmark the drive like that, and get those speeds, you
must have been on a USB3 port.
*******
But your third picture is a true puzzle.
The thing is, the temperature is a SMART table entry.
To list the drive temperature, you have to be able to read SMART.
Yet at the bottom of the third picture, two items say "N/A" as if
they're not available.
Now, I can't explain that one. Maybe it's getting stuck
transferring the SMART table, but that table isn't likely
to be all that large.
Perhaps the temperature transfer is done as a different
sequence first, then the whole SMART table is dumped
slightly later.
It could have something to do with the enclosure, and the
USB conversion chip. But if that was the case, how could
the benchmark curve have run ? Benchmarking moves lots of data.
I have setups here, where there is no SMART passthru, and
the top of that display shows a "minus" temperature indicating
there is no data to drive the display with. Whereas yours definitely
has a temperature, and it is probably the correct temperature too
(a real reading).
I don't know how to advise you on this one. The wide spike doesn't
look good, and it probably wouldn't be that wide if the OS was
interfering with the benchmark.
I can't imagine you had thousands of service hours on those drives.
It is hard to say, how the light service of doing backups, would
wear out a drive that fast. If the drive was left running, that
might contribute to it.
My drive with no landing ramp, it only lasted for 7000 power-on-hours.
I expect not having a landing ramp, did make a difference for that
drive.
Paul
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK
Robert
The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
with the write calibration.
If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.
Paul
Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
Win 10 hd already installed.
Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?
I did however run HD Tune on the 780:
https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq
https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN
https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf
Robert
Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.
There are some downward spikes. They're not always
conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
so the backups would not be falling onto the first
four spikes downwards.
The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
above the main line. But maybe that was also present
when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.
HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
with the SMART table there, is it does not include
the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
it's just additional information. For example, one
of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
of the short test, must have been plowing through there.
It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
Pretty low odds.
I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
run here without an issue.
Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
"Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
after an end-to-end disk write.
If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.
Paul
I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
That crop out of nowhere.
The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.
https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5
https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM
https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF
Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?
Thanks,
Robert
Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
780.
As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
it doesn't have the SMART table.
How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.
I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
probably already formatted but I would need to bring
Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
my bookmarks over.
I'll let you know if I have problems.
Thanks,
Robert
On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK
Robert
The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
with the write calibration.
If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.
Paul
Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
Win 10 hd already installed.
Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?
I did however run HD Tune on the 780:
https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq
https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN
https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf
Robert
Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.
There are some downward spikes. They're not always
conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
so the backups would not be falling onto the first
four spikes downwards.
The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
above the main line. But maybe that was also present
when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.
HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
with the SMART table there, is it does not include
the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
it's just additional information. For example, one
of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
of the short test, must have been plowing through there.
It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
Pretty low odds.
I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
run here without an issue.
Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
"Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
after an end-to-end disk write.
If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.
Paul
I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
That crop out of nowhere.
The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.
https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5
https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM
https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF
Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?
Thanks,
Robert
Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
780.
As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
it doesn't have the SMART table.
How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.
I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
probably already formatted but I would need to bring
Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
my bookmarks over.
I'll let you know if I have problems.
Thanks,
Robert
It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
would equate to a lot of backups :-)
Paul
On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK
Robert
The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
with the write calibration.
If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.
Paul
Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
Win 10 hd already installed.
Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?
I did however run HD Tune on the 780:
https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq
https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN
https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf
Robert
Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.
There are some downward spikes. They're not always
conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
so the backups would not be falling onto the first
four spikes downwards.
The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
above the main line. But maybe that was also present
when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.
HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
with the SMART table there, is it does not include
the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
it's just additional information. For example, one
of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
of the short test, must have been plowing through there.
It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
Pretty low odds.
I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
run here without an issue.
Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
"Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
after an end-to-end disk write.
If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.
Paul
I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
That crop out of nowhere.
The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.
https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5
https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM
https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF
Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?
Thanks,
Robert
Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
780.
As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
it doesn't have the SMART table.
How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.
I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
probably already formatted but I would need to bring
Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
my bookmarks over.
I'll let you know if I have problems.
Thanks,
Robert
It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
would equate to a lot of backups :-)
Paul
On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK
Robert
The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
with the write calibration.
If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.
Paul
Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
Win 10 hd already installed.
Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?
I did however run HD Tune on the 780:
https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq
https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN
https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf
Robert
Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.
There are some downward spikes. They're not always
conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
so the backups would not be falling onto the first
four spikes downwards.
The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
above the main line. But maybe that was also present
when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.
HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
with the SMART table there, is it does not include
the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
it's just additional information. For example, one
of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
of the short test, must have been plowing through there.
It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
Pretty low odds.
I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
run here without an issue.
Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
"Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
after an end-to-end disk write.
If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.
Paul
I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
That crop out of nowhere.
The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.
https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5
https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM
https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF
Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?
Thanks,
Robert
Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
780.
As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
it doesn't have the SMART table.
How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.
I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
probably already formatted but I would need to bring
Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
my bookmarks over.
I'll let you know if I have problems.
Thanks,
Robert
It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
would equate to a lot of backups :-)
Paul
On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK
Robert
The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
with the write calibration.
If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.
Paul
Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
Win 10 hd already installed.
Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?
I did however run HD Tune on the 780:
https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq
https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN
https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf
Robert
Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.
There are some downward spikes. They're not always
conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
so the backups would not be falling onto the first
four spikes downwards.
The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
above the main line. But maybe that was also present
when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.
HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
with the SMART table there, is it does not include
the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
it's just additional information. For example, one
of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
of the short test, must have been plowing through there.
It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
Pretty low odds.
I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
run here without an issue.
Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
"Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
after an end-to-end disk write.
If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.
Paul
I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
That crop out of nowhere.
The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.
https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5
https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM
https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF
Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?
Thanks,
Robert
Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
780.
As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
it doesn't have the SMART table.
How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.
I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
probably already formatted but I would need to bring
Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
my bookmarks over.
I'll let you know if I have problems.
Thanks,
Robert
It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
would equate to a lot of backups :-)
Paul
Not a problem per see but I've noticed when I go to eBay
and I click on an item (smoking pipes) the additional pictures
don't show when you select them but if I click it several times
they do or sometimes they stay closed. Other items don't have
this problem and I'm just wondering why it is?
Why can't I see the pictures all the time without having to close
and open it again? It didn't use to be that way. I guess when they
updated eBay they screwed things up.
Hmmmmm my Seamonkey says Warning I'm using a old version
V 2.53.19 and there's a download for V2.53.20 I thought we already
did this? Should I click the download?
Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK
Robert
The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
with the write calibration.
If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark, >>>>>>> helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.
Paul
Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
Win 10 hd already installed.
Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?
I did however run HD Tune on the 780:
https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq
https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN
https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf
Robert
Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.
There are some downward spikes. They're not always
conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
so the backups would not be falling onto the first
four spikes downwards.
The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
above the main line. But maybe that was also present
when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.
HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
with the SMART table there, is it does not include
the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
it's just additional information. For example, one
of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
of the short test, must have been plowing through there.
It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
Pretty low odds.
I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
run here without an issue.
Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
"Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
after an end-to-end disk write.
If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.
Paul
I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
That crop out of nowhere.
The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.
https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5
https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM
https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF
Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?
Thanks,
Robert
Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
780.
As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
it doesn't have the SMART table.
How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.
I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
probably already formatted but I would need to bring
Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
my bookmarks over.
I'll let you know if I have problems.
Thanks,
Robert
It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
would equate to a lot of backups :-)
Paul
I ran mrimgs on the 780 and 8500 and no issues this time.
780
https://postimg.cc/HcThCs7J
8500
https://postimg.cc/F1sBWz48
Robert
On Sun, 2/2/2025 12:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK
Robert
The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
with the write calibration.
If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark, >>>>>>>> helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.
Paul
Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
Win 10 hd already installed.
Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?
I did however run HD Tune on the 780:
https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq
https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN
https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf
Robert
Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.
There are some downward spikes. They're not always
conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
so the backups would not be falling onto the first
four spikes downwards.
The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
above the main line. But maybe that was also present
when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.
HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
with the SMART table there, is it does not include
the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
it's just additional information. For example, one
of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
of the short test, must have been plowing through there.
It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
Pretty low odds.
I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
run here without an issue.
Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
"Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
after an end-to-end disk write.
If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.
Paul
I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
That crop out of nowhere.
The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.
https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5
https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM
https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF
Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?
Thanks,
Robert
Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
780.
As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
it doesn't have the SMART table.
How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.
I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
probably already formatted but I would need to bring
Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
my bookmarks over.
I'll let you know if I have problems.
Thanks,
Robert
It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
would equate to a lot of backups :-)
Paul
I ran mrimgs on the 780 and 8500 and no issues this time.
780
https://postimg.cc/HcThCs7J
8500
https://postimg.cc/F1sBWz48
Robert
That's about 100 and 140MB/sec. That's sorta my average
for hard drive backups. None of them go all that fast.
Paul
On Sun, 2/2/2025 12:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK
Robert
The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
with the write calibration.
If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark, >>>>>>>> helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.
Paul
Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
Win 10 hd already installed.
Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?
I did however run HD Tune on the 780:
https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq
https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN
https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf
Robert
Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.
There are some downward spikes. They're not always
conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
so the backups would not be falling onto the first
four spikes downwards.
The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
above the main line. But maybe that was also present
when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.
HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
with the SMART table there, is it does not include
the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
it's just additional information. For example, one
of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
of the short test, must have been plowing through there.
It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
Pretty low odds.
I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
run here without an issue.
Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
"Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
after an end-to-end disk write.
If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.
Paul
I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
That crop out of nowhere.
The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.
https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5
https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM
https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF
Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?
Thanks,
Robert
Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
780.
As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
it doesn't have the SMART table.
How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.
I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
probably already formatted but I would need to bring
Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
my bookmarks over.
I'll let you know if I have problems.
Thanks,
Robert
It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
would equate to a lot of backups :-)
Paul
I ran mrimgs on the 780 and 8500 and no issues this time.
780
https://postimg.cc/HcThCs7J
8500
https://postimg.cc/F1sBWz48
Robert
That's about 100 and 140MB/sec. That's sorta my average
for hard drive backups. None of them go all that fast.
Paul
I thought I had sent this to you but I guess not. On my side I have a warning on Seamonkey saying I'm using an older Version V2.53.19 and they have a download for V2.53.20 and was wondering if I should click it or not? I thought we already did this?
There's a message on the bottom saying if you've already installed the newer version to try resetting my user agent string to the default. I don't even know what that means or how to do it?
https://postimg.cc/HjKpC1j3
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 2/2/2025 12:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
You won't believe it but right after they restored power
after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK >>>>>>>>>>
Robert
The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying >>>>>>>>> to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
with the write calibration.
If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark, >>>>>>>>> helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened. >>>>>>>>>
Paul
Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
Win 10 hd already installed.
Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?
I did however run HD Tune on the 780:
https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq
https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN
https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf
Robert
Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.
There are some downward spikes. They're not always
conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
so the backups would not be falling onto the first
four spikes downwards.
The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
above the main line. But maybe that was also present
when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.
HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
with the SMART table there, is it does not include
the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
it's just additional information. For example, one
of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
of the short test, must have been plowing through there.
It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
Pretty low odds.
I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
run here without an issue.
Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
"Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
after an end-to-end disk write.
If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter, >>>>>>> with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.
Paul
I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
That crop out of nowhere.
The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.
https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5
https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM
https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF
Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?
Thanks,
Robert
Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
780.
As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
it doesn't have the SMART table.
How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.
I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
probably already formatted but I would need to bring
Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
my bookmarks over.
I'll let you know if I have problems.
Thanks,
Robert
It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
would equate to a lot of backups :-)
Paul
I ran mrimgs on the 780 and 8500 and no issues this time.
780
https://postimg.cc/HcThCs7J
8500
https://postimg.cc/F1sBWz48
Robert
That's about 100 and 140MB/sec. That's sorta my average
for hard drive backups. None of them go all that fast.
Paul
I ran HD-Tune again,.
780 - the first two pics are at different times,..
https://postimg.cc/LYbvbXyt 2TB, thin spikes, 200..100MB/sec
https://postimg.cc/jCBZ6DnK Spikes moved a bit, seek dot extremes also moved
https://postimg.cc/WhrS5s0Z Info table for drive (all boxes are ticked, as they could not be read...)
https://postimg.cc/nXJ25N1P No health table, no SMART Passthru on USB ?
8500 - this time it shows the SMART table.
https://postimg.cc/3yrBrpVj 2TB, thin spikes, 200..100MB/sec, seek dots look excellent
https://postimg.cc/xX5vZ88X Info table for drive, notes no AAM which is correct
https://postimg.cc/k60KSt1p Health table OK (passthru working), zero reallocated
https://postimg.cc/PPzYLJmS Health table zero for Current Pending
Robert
On Mon, 2/10/2025 7:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I thought I had sent this to you but I guess not. On my side I have a warning on Seamonkey saying I'm using an older Version V2.53.19 and they have a download for V2.53.20 and was wondering if I should click it or not? I thought we already did this?
There's a message on the bottom saying if you've already installed the newer version to try resetting my user agent string to the default. I don't even know what that means or how to do it?
https://postimg.cc/HjKpC1j3
Robert
You can add the setting manually, at this URL.
The general.useragent.override isn't in the about:config
at the moment.
about:config
general.useragent.override STRING <useragent string goes here>
*******
This shows what it would normally say. You don't need the override if it reports this.
https://www.whatismybrowser.com/detect/what-is-my-user-agent/
Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20
None of this should really be necessary, but you can check
and see what yours is doing right now.
Paul
Hmmm I don't like going into about:config
I used the link you provided and this is
what it gave me:
https://postimg.cc/ThfP9f0w
Was I suppose to download this?
Robert
On Tue, 2/11/2025 6:55 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Hmmm I don't like going into about:config
I used the link you provided and this is
what it gave me:
https://postimg.cc/ThfP9f0w
Was I suppose to download this?
Robert
That's so you can see what the web sites see, when you connect
to a web site.
That looks like the browser running on a Windows 7 computer...
The Windows 7 browser at some point, the ESR version is pretty close to
the end of its updates (the updates are all versions of 115ESR). That is pretty
well the last browser that receives updates and runs on Windows 7.
Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; Win64; x64; rv:109.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/115.0
You can override that string, and put some other string in its place.
This is the Seamonkey string by default without an override, for 2.53.20 .
Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20
Web sites do not entirely rely on that string. But some web sites
dismiss you out of hand, when you present an older browser, and that
is likely how they detect what you are using. The other method
is "capability" based, and they do a test to see if your Javascript
engine understands the newest concepts, then they reject you :-)
That's why, playing with the UserAgent string (via the Config Editor),
does not guarantee you can fool everyone.
Paul
So should I replace the string and if so how do I do it?
In about:config? As I said, I don't like going in there
or should I download the newer version? That means
setting up Seamonkey all over again or do I just leave it
as is ?
Also in eBay I find when I click an item(smoking pipes)the
other pictures do not open up but if I open/close the item
several times it then it does but not always. This doesn't happen
on all items but allot of them. I attribute this to the changes
they've made over time to eBay. In my opinion they've made
it worst.
Thanks,
Robert
On Thu, 2/13/2025 3:59 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
So should I replace the string and if so how do I do it?
In about:config? As I said, I don't like going in there
or should I download the newer version? That means
setting up Seamonkey all over again or do I just leave it
as is ?
Also in eBay I find when I click an item(smoking pipes)the
other pictures do not open up but if I open/close the item
several times it then it does but not always. This doesn't happen
on all items but allot of them. I attribute this to the changes
they've made over time to eBay. In my opinion they've made
it worst.
Thanks,
Robert
Most times I would be advising you to take the latest and greatest browser.
However, in this case, one of the .18 browsers is better than the .20 browser.
More web sites seem to be "abusing" the .20 browser, I'm seeming
more glitches and so on -- the activity makes me "nervous" :-)
What have they done, to make web sites abuse it ? I don't know. But it implies one
of the standard addition files (like a Google file) could be doing it.
about:config
general.useragent.override STRING Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20
*******
That is stored in the prefs.js file.
You can make a backup copy of the profile folder which has
data files (cookies.sqlite) with todays date on them.
After installing one of those Config Editor lines, you should find the lines in the prefs.js
mostly in alphabetical order, and you'd see something like this line added to the file.
I used a shortened example of a string, so it doesn't go too far off the side of the screen.
user_pref("general.useragent.override", "Your fake Useragent goes here");
If the data-type was some other type, then it would be unlikely to have double-quotes (for a string) around the second part like that. For example, an integer value is just , 17); and doesn't have double quotes around it.
Now, we're discussing what it looks like inside the prefs.js in the last
few lines. The Configuration Editor likely mentions the newly created item
is a STRING. But when the value is stored in the file, the string indication is done with the existence of double-quotes around the data value.
If you want the default Useragent string to come back, just delete that line. The line does not exist in the file, so you will be adding a "New String" to the file.
And later if you did not want it, you could search for useragent, then delete the line
that exactly matches your intent, in the Configuration Editor.
Paul
general.useragent.override STRING Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0;Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20
On Thu, 2/13/2025 3:59 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
So should I replace the string and if so how do I do it?
In about:config? As I said, I don't like going in there
or should I download the newer version? That means
setting up Seamonkey all over again or do I just leave it
as is ?
Also in eBay I find when I click an item(smoking pipes)the
other pictures do not open up but if I open/close the item
several times it then it does but not always. This doesn't happen
on all items but allot of them. I attribute this to the changes
they've made over time to eBay. In my opinion they've made
it worst.
Thanks,
Robert
Most times I would be advising you to take the latest and greatest browser.
However, in this case, one of the .18 browsers is better than the .20 browser.
More web sites seem to be "abusing" the .20 browser, I'm seeming
more glitches and so on -- the activity makes me "nervous" :-)
What have they done, to make web sites abuse it ? I don't know. But it implies one
of the standard addition files (like a Google file) could be doing it.
about:config
general.useragent.override STRING Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20
*******
That is stored in the prefs.js file.
You can make a backup copy of the profile folder which has
data files (cookies.sqlite) with todays date on them.
After installing one of those Config Editor lines, you should find the lines in the prefs.js
mostly in alphabetical order, and you'd see something like this line added to the file.
I used a shortened example of a string, so it doesn't go too far off the side of the screen.
user_pref("general.useragent.override", "Your fake Useragent goes here");
If the data-type was some other type, then it would be unlikely to have double-quotes (for a string) around the second part like that. For example, an integer value is just , 17); and doesn't have double quotes around it.
Now, we're discussing what it looks like inside the prefs.js in the last
few lines. The Configuration Editor likely mentions the newly created item
is a STRING. But when the value is stored in the file, the string indication is done with the existence of double-quotes around the data value.
If you want the default Useragent string to come back, just delete that line. The line does not exist in the file, so you will be adding a "New String" to the file.
And later if you did not want it, you could search for useragent, then delete the line
that exactly matches your intent, in the Configuration Editor.
Paul
How do I make a backup of my profiles folder?
Thanks,
Robert
Just so I understand, given my history, you want me to go into about:config and enter this:
about:config
general.useragent.override STRING Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20
correct?
Robert
On Sat, 2/15/2025 6:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:
How do I make a backup of my profiles folder?
Thanks,
Robert
C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\122k63cr.default
^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^
1) start Seamonkey
2) Make sure Menu Bar is enabled
Upper pane area, right click, select Menu so it is ticked.
(you can see File,Edit,View,Options,Tools,Help now near the top)
3) Select Edit:Preferences from the Menu bar.
4) Advanced:Cache
Look for an absolute path line on that page of the Preferences:
122k63cr.default
^^^^^^^^
The string on the end, tells you the identifier of the profile folder.
Now, take the string above, and add that short bit above, to the end.
C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\ <=== WhatEverYoursSays.default
The "122k63cr.default" (or similar with different random alphanumeric)
is the folder you want to back up. This has the prefs.js file. It actually
has two of those files, but the one at the top level is for the entire browser.
That folder also has "cookies.sqlite" and "webappsstore.sqlite" in it.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 2/15/2025 6:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:
How do I make a backup of my profiles folder?
Thanks,
Robert
C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\122k63cr.default
^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^
1) start Seamonkey
2) Make sure Menu Bar is enabled
Upper pane area, right click, select Menu so it is ticked.
(you can see File,Edit,View,Options,Tools,Help now near the top)
3) Select Edit:Preferences from the Menu bar.
4) Advanced:Cache
Look for an absolute path line on that page of the Preferences:
122k63cr.default
^^^^^^^^
The string on the end, tells you the identifier of the profile folder.
Now, take the string above, and add that short bit above, to the end. >>
C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\ <=== WhatEverYoursSays.default
The "122k63cr.default" (or similar with different random alphanumeric)
is the folder you want to back up. This has the prefs.js file. It actually
has two of those files, but the one at the top level is for the entire browser.
That folder also has "cookies.sqlite" and "webappsstore.sqlite" in it.
Paul
I followed your instructions but when in Advanced
I saw nothing with Cache or the default.
https://postimg.cc/9RnMRmWX
https://postimg.cc/BtjtWKgj
Robert
On Sat, 2/15/2025 9:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 2/15/2025 6:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:
How do I make a backup of my profiles folder?
Thanks,
Robert
C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\122k63cr.default
^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^
1) start Seamonkey
2) Make sure Menu Bar is enabled
Upper pane area, right click, select Menu so it is ticked.
(you can see File,Edit,View,Options,Tools,Help now near the top) >>> 3) Select Edit:Preferences from the Menu bar.
4) Advanced:Cache
Look for an absolute path line on that page of the Preferences:
122k63cr.default
^^^^^^^^
The string on the end, tells you the identifier of the profile folder.
Now, take the string above, and add that short bit above, to the end.
C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\ <=== WhatEverYoursSays.default
The "122k63cr.default" (or similar with different random alphanumeric)
is the folder you want to back up. This has the prefs.js file. It actually
has two of those files, but the one at the top level is for the entire browser.
That folder also has "cookies.sqlite" and "webappsstore.sqlite" in it.
Paul
I followed your instructions but when in Advanced
I saw nothing with Cache or the default.
https://postimg.cc/9RnMRmWX
https://postimg.cc/BtjtWKgj
Robert
Looks like I screwed that up.
Let's try that again:
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/zBVFwV3Z/seamonkey-profile-folder.gif
The folder should have Mail and News, as items.
That helps you tell it's the correct folder, of the two of them.
The other one, has the cache2, but it isn't important and is
derived from daily activity. I clean that out occasionally, as
an example it is not important, the cache2 content. That's
the browser cache that keeps browser pages for faster loading
a second time. if the web server signals "you should take a new
copy", then the cache content is ignored and a fresh copy is
downloaded. That is what the other folder does for you, but
it doesn't need to be backed up, that cache2 folder.
But the one with Mail and News in it, could have the Inbox of
mail or the newsgroups of USENET News.
Paul
On Mon, 2/24/2025 3:58 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 2/15/2025 9:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 2/15/2025 6:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:
How do I make a backup of my profiles folder?
Thanks,
Robert
C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\122k63cr.default
^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^
1) start Seamonkey
2) Make sure Menu Bar is enabled
Upper pane area, right click, select Menu so it is ticked. >>>>> (you can see File,Edit,View,Options,Tools,Help now near the top)
3) Select Edit:Preferences from the Menu bar.
4) Advanced:Cache
Look for an absolute path line on that page of the Preferences: >>>>>
122k63cr.default
^^^^^^^^
The string on the end, tells you the identifier of the profile folder.
Now, take the string above, and add that short bit above, to the end.
C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\ <=== WhatEverYoursSays.default
The "122k63cr.default" (or similar with different random alphanumeric)
is the folder you want to back up. This has the prefs.js file. It actually
has two of those files, but the one at the top level is for the entire browser.
That folder also has "cookies.sqlite" and "webappsstore.sqlite" in it.
Paul
I followed your instructions but when in Advanced
I saw nothing with Cache or the default.
https://postimg.cc/9RnMRmWX
https://postimg.cc/BtjtWKgj
Robert
Looks like I screwed that up.
Let's try that again:
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/zBVFwV3Z/seamonkey-profile-folder.gif
The folder should have Mail and News, as items.
That helps you tell it's the correct folder, of the two of them.
The other one, has the cache2, but it isn't important and is
derived from daily activity. I clean that out occasionally, as
an example it is not important, the cache2 content. That's
the browser cache that keeps browser pages for faster loading
a second time. if the web server signals "you should take a new
copy", then the cache content is ignored and a fresh copy is
downloaded. That is what the other folder does for you, but
it doesn't need to be backed up, that cache2 folder.
But the one with Mail and News in it, could have the Inbox of
mail or the newsgroups of USENET News.
Paul
I hope I did it correctly,...
https://postimg.cc/nsss5vy5
https://postimg.cc/tsk8scg0
https://postimg.cc/r0Zfc6gj
now ,.. enter the commands,.. is that 2
spaces between override and STRING
and 3 spaces after?
about:config
general.useragent.override STRING Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20
Thanks,
Robert
In your first picture, I'm using Agent Ransack to do a search for the folder. Really, editing the path and putting the word "Roaming" in the path, would have worked as well. I don't know if you have Agent Ransack installed or not, but it is a search tool. I thought it might be easier to locate the two instances,
and find the one that has Mail and News folders in it, as that is the valuable one
worth backing up.
https://postimg.cc/nsss5vy5 <=== your picture
*******
In your second picture, you seem to have located the correct folder,
because Mail and News are in that folder.
https://postimg.cc/tsk8scg0 <=== your picture
*******
In About:Config (the Configuration Editor for Firefox),..
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/XJRYJT7b/Firefox-General-User-Agent-Override.gif
That should show you what it looks like.
Paul
Here's another off topic question,.. I went to buy another
1TB Patriot stick but it doesn't have the buy option ? It
only tells about the product.
This is the same link I used to buy them before, so where
do I buy Patriot sticks now? There seems lots of places but
I'd prefer to buy it directly from Patriot.
https://www.patriotmemory.com/patriot-gaming-usb-flash-drives
Thanks,
Robert
I have Agent Ransack installed but I just followed the file path.
Hmmmm I typed about:config and right clicked it but it doesn't
have the modify option.
https://postimg.cc/BtLh2M8t
Robert
On Fri, 2/28/2025 1:31 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Here's another off topic question,.. I went to buy another
1TB Patriot stick but it doesn't have the buy option ? It
only tells about the product.
This is the same link I used to buy them before, so where
do I buy Patriot sticks now? There seems lots of places but
I'd prefer to buy it directly from Patriot.
https://www.patriotmemory.com/patriot-gaming-usb-flash-drives
Thanks,
Robert
They have some where-to-buy info here.
https://www.patriotmemory.com/distributors/north-america
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1654861-REG/patriot_pef1tbrpmw32u_rage_prime_usb_3_2.html # $72.99 1TB
In the upper right corner, it says "authorized dealer".
which doesn't mean much, in an online scenario :-)
For USB sticks in the 500GB, 1TB, 2TB region, there is
a lot of fraud, so you are right to be cautious.
Especially if a source of 1TB and 2TB sticks sells them for $10 and $15 :-) That's what scammers used to charge for the imaginary sticks, once
upon a time. The people who bought them, were quite insistent
they hadn't been scammed too. Which just adds to the comedy.
A high price does not guarantee anything is legit, but at least
the price is not at "warning level" of $10.
Paul
On Mon, 2/24/2025 3:58 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 2/15/2025 9:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 2/15/2025 6:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:
How do I make a backup of my profiles folder?
Thanks,
Robert
C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\122k63cr.default
^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^
1) start Seamonkey
2) Make sure Menu Bar is enabled
Upper pane area, right click, select Menu so it is ticked. >>>>> (you can see File,Edit,View,Options,Tools,Help now near the top)
3) Select Edit:Preferences from the Menu bar.
4) Advanced:Cache
Look for an absolute path line on that page of the Preferences: >>>>>
122k63cr.default
^^^^^^^^
The string on the end, tells you the identifier of the profile folder.
Now, take the string above, and add that short bit above, to the end.
C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\ <=== WhatEverYoursSays.default
The "122k63cr.default" (or similar with different random alphanumeric)
is the folder you want to back up. This has the prefs.js file. It actually
has two of those files, but the one at the top level is for the entire browser.
That folder also has "cookies.sqlite" and "webappsstore.sqlite" in it.
Paul
I followed your instructions but when in Advanced
I saw nothing with Cache or the default.
https://postimg.cc/9RnMRmWX
https://postimg.cc/BtjtWKgj
Robert
Looks like I screwed that up.
Let's try that again:
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/zBVFwV3Z/seamonkey-profile-folder.gif
The folder should have Mail and News, as items.
That helps you tell it's the correct folder, of the two of them.
The other one, has the cache2, but it isn't important and is
derived from daily activity. I clean that out occasionally, as
an example it is not important, the cache2 content. That's
the browser cache that keeps browser pages for faster loading
a second time. if the web server signals "you should take a new
copy", then the cache content is ignored and a fresh copy is
downloaded. That is what the other folder does for you, but
it doesn't need to be backed up, that cache2 folder.
But the one with Mail and News in it, could have the Inbox of
mail or the newsgroups of USENET News.
Paul
I hope I did it correctly,...
https://postimg.cc/nsss5vy5
https://postimg.cc/tsk8scg0
https://postimg.cc/r0Zfc6gj
now ,.. enter the commands,.. is that 2
spaces between override and STRING
and 3 spaces after?
about:config
general.useragent.override STRING Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20
Thanks,
Robert
In your first picture, I'm using Agent Ransack to do a search for the folder. Really, editing the path and putting the word "Roaming" in the path, would have worked as well. I don't know if you have Agent Ransack installed or not, but it is a search tool. I thought it might be easier to locate the two instances,
and find the one that has Mail and News folders in it, as that is the valuable one
worth backing up.
https://postimg.cc/nsss5vy5 <=== your picture
*******
In your second picture, you seem to have located the correct folder,
because Mail and News are in that folder.
https://postimg.cc/tsk8scg0 <=== your picture
*******
In About:Config (the Configuration Editor for Firefox),..
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/XJRYJT7b/Firefox-General-User-Agent-Override.gif
That should show you what it looks like.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 2/15/2025 9:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 2/15/2025 6:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:
How do I make a backup of my profiles folder?
Thanks,
Robert
C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\122k63cr.default
^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^
1) start Seamonkey
2) Make sure Menu Bar is enabled
Upper pane area, right click, select Menu so it is ticked.
(you can see File,Edit,View,Options,Tools,Help now near the top) >>>> 3) Select Edit:Preferences from the Menu bar.
4) Advanced:Cache
Look for an absolute path line on that page of the Preferences: >>>>
122k63cr.default
^^^^^^^^
The string on the end, tells you the identifier of the profile folder.
Now, take the string above, and add that short bit above, to the end.
C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\ <=== WhatEverYoursSays.default
The "122k63cr.default" (or similar with different random alphanumeric)
is the folder you want to back up. This has the prefs.js file. It actually
has two of those files, but the one at the top level is for the entire browser.
That folder also has "cookies.sqlite" and "webappsstore.sqlite" in it.
Paul
I followed your instructions but when in Advanced
I saw nothing with Cache or the default.
https://postimg.cc/9RnMRmWX
https://postimg.cc/BtjtWKgj
Robert
Looks like I screwed that up.
Let's try that again:
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/zBVFwV3Z/seamonkey-profile-folder.gif
The folder should have Mail and News, as items.
That helps you tell it's the correct folder, of the two of them.
The other one, has the cache2, but it isn't important and is
derived from daily activity. I clean that out occasionally, as
an example it is not important, the cache2 content. That's
the browser cache that keeps browser pages for faster loading
a second time. if the web server signals "you should take a new
copy", then the cache content is ignored and a fresh copy is
downloaded. That is what the other folder does for you, but
it doesn't need to be backed up, that cache2 folder.
But the one with Mail and News in it, could have the Inbox of
mail or the newsgroups of USENET News.
Paul
I hope I did it correctly,...
https://postimg.cc/nsss5vy5
https://postimg.cc/tsk8scg0
https://postimg.cc/r0Zfc6gj
now ,.. enter the commands,.. is that 2
spaces between override and STRING
and 3 spaces after?
about:config
general.useragent.override STRING Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20
Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 2/28/2025 1:31 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Here's another off topic question,.. I went to buy another
1TB Patriot stick but it doesn't have the buy option ? It
only tells about the product.
This is the same link I used to buy them before, so where
do I buy Patriot sticks now? There seems lots of places but
I'd prefer to buy it directly from Patriot.
https://www.patriotmemory.com/patriot-gaming-usb-flash-drives
Thanks,
Robert
They have some where-to-buy info here.
https://www.patriotmemory.com/distributors/north-america
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1654861-REG/patriot_pef1tbrpmw32u_rage_prime_usb_3_2.html # $72.99 1TB
In the upper right corner, it says "authorized dealer".
which doesn't mean much, in an online scenario :-)
For USB sticks in the 500GB, 1TB, 2TB region, there is
a lot of fraud, so you are right to be cautious.
Especially if a source of 1TB and 2TB sticks sells them for $10 and $15 :-) >> That's what scammers used to charge for the imaginary sticks, once
upon a time. The people who bought them, were quite insistent
they hadn't been scammed too. Which just adds to the comedy.
A high price does not guarantee anything is legit, but at least
the price is not at "warning level" of $10.
Paul
Thanks for the links,... you'd think Patriot would have its own
website to sell their products.
What about the about:config and not finding the modify option?
I'm almost forgetting what were doing,... to make the Seamonkey
warning of an older version to go away so I don't have to download
and set it all back up again.
I've backed it up with the mail/ news in the same folder. So what
do I do now?
Thanks,
Robert
On Sat, 3/1/2025 7:14 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 2/28/2025 1:31 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Here's another off topic question,.. I went to buy another
1TB Patriot stick but it doesn't have the buy option ? It
only tells about the product.
This is the same link I used to buy them before, so where
do I buy Patriot sticks now? There seems lots of places but
I'd prefer to buy it directly from Patriot.
https://www.patriotmemory.com/patriot-gaming-usb-flash-drives
Thanks,
Robert
They have some where-to-buy info here.
https://www.patriotmemory.com/distributors/north-america
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1654861-REG/patriot_pef1tbrpmw32u_rage_prime_usb_3_2.html # $72.99 1TB
In the upper right corner, it says "authorized dealer".
which doesn't mean much, in an online scenario :-)
For USB sticks in the 500GB, 1TB, 2TB region, there is
a lot of fraud, so you are right to be cautious.
Especially if a source of 1TB and 2TB sticks sells them for $10 and $15 :-) >>> That's what scammers used to charge for the imaginary sticks, once
upon a time. The people who bought them, were quite insistent
they hadn't been scammed too. Which just adds to the comedy.
A high price does not guarantee anything is legit, but at least
the price is not at "warning level" of $10.
Paul
Thanks for the links,... you'd think Patriot would have its own
website to sell their products.
What about the about:config and not finding the modify option?
I'm almost forgetting what were doing,... to make the Seamonkey
warning of an older version to go away so I don't have to download
and set it all back up again.
I've backed it up with the mail/ news in the same folder. So what
do I do now?
Thanks,
Robert
I explained that "User Agent spoofing is for fooling external web sites
into thinking your browser is a modern one". Doing this does not
fool the Seamonkey logic that wants to install 2.53.20 .
Maybe the objective would be to fool Ebay into thinking you were
using the latest Firefox when you were not using that. You can
set the UserAgent string to "Firefox" details, and if the site only
checks that aspect of your browser, then your browser would work.
However, if a web site checks your browser for "capabilities", then
it might fail such a test. They could test to see if your Javascript
engine understands "the latest tweak". And the only reason they
keep adding garbage to Javascript, is so they can tell when you're using
an old browser.
I don't sue UserAgent Spoofing myself, because I just switch browsers
and platforms if I want to do business. This helps me up to a point,
until a business website wants to do 2FA and a credit card number
is not sufficient for them. For the site that does that, it means
less business for them.
I hope you can see the pluses and minuses of doing this. For dumb
web design, it might work. With the availability of standard plugins
for web pages that measure and sniff everything under the Sun,
it's hard to imagine the dumber web designers would miss details
like this, since the plugin does all the work for them. All it takes
is one smart person to "weaponize" the web, and all the dumb designers
to copy it, to ruin things.
Paul
Well I checked and FF is up to date so do you recommend doing nothing
and just ignore the Seamonkey message? Everything seems to be working
fine on this end.
I went ahead and ordered a 1TB Patriot Key from the links you gave. I
also completed this months mrimgs with no problems.
Thanks,
Robert
On Mon, 3/3/2025 2:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Well I checked and FF is up to date so do you recommend doing nothing
and just ignore the Seamonkey message? Everything seems to be working
fine on this end.
I went ahead and ordered a 1TB Patriot Key from the links you gave. I
also completed this months mrimgs with no problems.
Thanks,
Robert
I would ignore the update message for now, and perhaps 2.53.21
will be better.
I just noticed that .20 wasn't working as well here as I
would have liked and I don't know what the problem is. There
are the usual complaints by sites that have a Google plugin
to check the browser version. And whatever the new Google
tracking scheme is, Seamonkey likely doesn't support it
in an outright manner.
The Firefox, on your Win10 setup, that should continue
to get updated. Should be good until the end of 2025.
The Firefox version right now, is up around 135 or so.
It would be 115ESR for Windows 7.
Paul
On Mon, 3/3/2025 2:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Well I checked and FF is up to date so do you recommend doing nothing
and just ignore the Seamonkey message? Everything seems to be working
fine on this end.
I went ahead and ordered a 1TB Patriot Key from the links you gave. I
also completed this months mrimgs with no problems.
Thanks,
Robert
I would ignore the update message for now, and perhaps 2.53.21
will be better.
I just noticed that .20 wasn't working as well here as I
would have liked and I don't know what the problem is. There
are the usual complaints by sites that have a Google plugin
to check the browser version. And whatever the new Google
tracking scheme is, Seamonkey likely doesn't support it
in an outright manner.
The Firefox, on your Win10 setup, that should continue
to get updated. Should be good until the end of 2025.
The Firefox version right now, is up around 135 or so.
It would be 115ESR for Windows 7.
Paul
On Mon, 3/3/2025 2:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Well I checked and FF is up to date so do you recommend doing nothing
and just ignore the Seamonkey message? Everything seems to be working
fine on this end.
I went ahead and ordered a 1TB Patriot Key from the links you gave. I
also completed this months mrimgs with no problems.
Thanks,
Robert
I would ignore the update message for now, and perhaps 2.53.21
will be better.
I just noticed that .20 wasn't working as well here as I
would have liked and I don't know what the problem is. There
are the usual complaints by sites that have a Google plugin
to check the browser version. And whatever the new Google
tracking scheme is, Seamonkey likely doesn't support it
in an outright manner.
The Firefox, on your Win10 setup, that should continue
to get updated. Should be good until the end of 2025.
The Firefox version right now, is up around 135 or so.
It would be 115ESR for Windows 7.
Paul
On Mon, 3/3/2025 2:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Well I checked and FF is up to date so do you recommend doing nothing
and just ignore the Seamonkey message? Everything seems to be working
fine on this end.
I went ahead and ordered a 1TB Patriot Key from the links you gave. I
also completed this months mrimgs with no problems.
Thanks,
Robert
I would ignore the update message for now, and perhaps 2.53.21
will be better.
I just noticed that .20 wasn't working as well here as I
would have liked and I don't know what the problem is. There
are the usual complaints by sites that have a Google plugin
to check the browser version. And whatever the new Google
tracking scheme is, Seamonkey likely doesn't support it
in an outright manner.
The Firefox, on your Win10 setup, that should continue
to get updated. Should be good until the end of 2025.
The Firefox version right now, is up around 135 or so.
It would be 115ESR for Windows 7.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 3/3/2025 2:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Well I checked and FF is up to date so do you recommend doing nothing
and just ignore the Seamonkey message? Everything seems to be working
fine on this end.
I went ahead and ordered a 1TB Patriot Key from the links you gave. I
also completed this months mrimgs with no problems.
Thanks,
Robert
I would ignore the update message for now, and perhaps 2.53.21
will be better.
I just noticed that .20 wasn't working as well here as I
would have liked and I don't know what the problem is. There
are the usual complaints by sites that have a Google plugin
to check the browser version. And whatever the new Google
tracking scheme is, Seamonkey likely doesn't support it
in an outright manner.
The Firefox, on your Win10 setup, that should continue
to get updated. Should be good until the end of 2025.
The Firefox version right now, is up around 135 or so.
It would be 115ESR for Windows 7.
Paul
I managed to import my bookmarks back to Win10 on the 780.
However there's no Homepage icon? I want to make about:blank
as my homepage so how do I do that in Win10 ?
Next I'll update the 8500 Win10 and hope nothing goes wrong.
I'll do the Admin Account and User Account like I did on the
780 to be thorough.
Thanks,
Robert
On Tue, 3/4/2025 3:28 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 3/3/2025 2:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Well I checked and FF is up to date so do you recommend doing nothing
and just ignore the Seamonkey message? Everything seems to be working
fine on this end.
I went ahead and ordered a 1TB Patriot Key from the links you gave. I
also completed this months mrimgs with no problems.
Thanks,
Robert
I would ignore the update message for now, and perhaps 2.53.21
will be better.
I just noticed that .20 wasn't working as well here as I
would have liked and I don't know what the problem is. There
are the usual complaints by sites that have a Google plugin
to check the browser version. And whatever the new Google
tracking scheme is, Seamonkey likely doesn't support it
in an outright manner.
The Firefox, on your Win10 setup, that should continue
to get updated. Should be good until the end of 2025.
The Firefox version right now, is up around 135 or so.
It would be 115ESR for Windows 7.
Paul
I managed to import my bookmarks back to Win10 on the 780.
However there's no Homepage icon? I want to make about:blank
as my homepage so how do I do that in Win10 ?
Next I'll update the 8500 Win10 and hope nothing goes wrong.
I'll do the Admin Account and User Account like I did on the
780 to be thorough.
Thanks,
Robert
browser.startup.homepage about:blank
startup.homepage_override_url ignore <=== it is supposed to be a URL, but this stops it from overriding
*******
There are also entries such as
browser.startup.homepage-override.buildID 20250127191809 browser.startup.homepage_override.mstone 128.7.0 (browser was 128.7.0ESR when this was checked)
doh-rollout.home-region CA
which appear to be set by the update process, and may be
attempts to override the normal startup, after the software
is updated.
*******
So far, nothing has leaked through.
Paul
Mine still seems to be using about:blank .
Paul
I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same thing. So what am I doing wrong?
browser.startup.homepage about:blank
startup.homepage_override_url ignore
Thanks,
Robert
On Wed, 3/5/2025 3:00 PM, Rob in CA wrote:
I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between
homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same
thing. So what am I doing wrong?
browser.startup.homepage about:blank
startup.homepage_override_url ignore
Thanks,
Robert
These are entries in the Configuration Editor.
We've been discussing that, off and on. It has the
scary reminder just before you open it.
http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config
And the lines are stored, when the browser is not
running, in the Prefs.js file . In the UserAgent
discussion, I showed an example of what a new entry
in the Prefs.js would look like.
That's the kind of place the two items above will go.
We're talking about Firefox, then the Firefox Configuration Editor
is where you would be modifying the values that are there by default.
Browser startup homepage, is a STRING which is a URL. And
we're using "about:blank", for a "clean look" when the browser starts.
The "homepage_override_url" is being set to a value that won't load,
so you can tell when that override is being used by the browser.
Paul
On Wed, 3/5/2025 3:00 PM, Rob in CA wrote:
I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between
homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same
thing. So what am I doing wrong?
browser.startup.homepage about:blank
startup.homepage_override_url ignore
Thanks,
Robert
These are entries in the Configuration Editor.
We've been discussing that, off and on. It has the
scary reminder just before you open it.
http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config
And the lines are stored, when the browser is not
running, in the Prefs.js file . In the UserAgent
discussion, I showed an example of what a new entry
in the Prefs.js would look like.
That's the kind of place the two items above will go.
We're talking about Firefox, then the Firefox Configuration Editor
is where you would be modifying the values that are there by default.
Browser startup homepage, is a STRING which is a URL. And
we're using "about:blank", for a "clean look" when the browser starts.
The "homepage_override_url" is being set to a value that won't load,
so you can tell when that override is being used by the browser.
Paul
On Wed, 3/5/2025 3:00 PM, Rob in CA wrote:
I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between
homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same
thing. So what am I doing wrong?
browser.startup.homepage about:blank
startup.homepage_override_url ignore
Thanks,
Robert
These are entries in the Configuration Editor.
We've been discussing that, off and on. It has the
scary reminder just before you open it.
http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config
And the lines are stored, when the browser is not
running, in the Prefs.js file . In the UserAgent
discussion, I showed an example of what a new entry
in the Prefs.js would look like.
That's the kind of place the two items above will go.
We're talking about Firefox, then the Firefox Configuration Editor
is where you would be modifying the values that are there by default.
Browser startup homepage, is a STRING which is a URL. And
we're using "about:blank", for a "clean look" when the browser starts.
The "homepage_override_url" is being set to a value that won't load,
so you can tell when that override is being used by the browser.
Paul
On Wed, 3/5/2025 3:00 PM, Rob in CA wrote:
I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between
homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same
thing. So what am I doing wrong?
browser.startup.homepage about:blank
startup.homepage_override_url ignore
Thanks,
Robert
These are entries in the Configuration Editor.
We've been discussing that, off and on. It has the
scary reminder just before you open it.
http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config
And the lines are stored, when the browser is not
running, in the Prefs.js file . In the UserAgent
discussion, I showed an example of what a new entry
in the Prefs.js would look like.
That's the kind of place the two items above will go.
We're talking about Firefox, then the Firefox Configuration Editor
is where you would be modifying the values that are there by default.
Browser startup homepage, is a STRING which is a URL. And
we're using "about:blank", for a "clean look" when the browser starts.
The "homepage_override_url" is being set to a value that won't load,
so you can tell when that override is being used by the browser.
Paul
On Wed, 3/5/2025 3:00 PM, Rob in CA wrote:
I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between
homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same
thing. So what am I doing wrong?
browser.startup.homepage about:blank
startup.homepage_override_url ignore
Thanks,
Robert
These are entries in the Configuration Editor.
We've been discussing that, off and on. It has the
scary reminder just before you open it.
http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config
And the lines are stored, when the browser is not
running, in the Prefs.js file . In the UserAgent
discussion, I showed an example of what a new entry
in the Prefs.js would look like.
That's the kind of place the two items above will go.
We're talking about Firefox, then the Firefox Configuration Editor
is where you would be modifying the values that are there by default.
Browser startup homepage, is a STRING which is a URL. And
we're using "about:blank", for a "clean look" when the browser starts.
The "homepage_override_url" is being set to a value that won't load,
so you can tell when that override is being used by the browser.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/5/2025 3:00 PM, Rob in CA wrote:
I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between
homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same
thing. So what am I doing wrong?
browser.startup.homepage about:blank
startup.homepage_override_url ignore
Thanks,
Robert
These are entries in the Configuration Editor.
We've been discussing that, off and on. It has the
scary reminder just before you open it.
http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config
And the lines are stored, when the browser is not
running, in the Prefs.js file . In the UserAgent
discussion, I showed an example of what a new entry
in the Prefs.js would look like.
That's the kind of place the two items above will go.
We're talking about Firefox, then the Firefox Configuration Editor
is where you would be modifying the values that are there by default.
Browser startup homepage, is a STRING which is a URL. And
we're using "about:blank", for a "clean look" when the browser starts.
The "homepage_override_url" is being set to a value that won't load,
so you can tell when that override is being used by the browser.
Paul
After thinking about it,.. couldn't I just use the
8500 Rescue CD and restore it using the mrimg ?
Also when I clicked the
paganini.bofh.team
m.p.w general - it gave me the error message.
https://postimg.cc/tsNMf5tL
Thanks,
Robert
On Sat, 3/8/2025 5:46 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/5/2025 3:00 PM, Rob in CA wrote:
I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between
homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same >>>> thing. So what am I doing wrong?
browser.startup.homepage about:blank
startup.homepage_override_url ignore
Thanks,
Robert
These are entries in the Configuration Editor.
We've been discussing that, off and on. It has the
scary reminder just before you open it.
http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config
And the lines are stored, when the browser is not
running, in the Prefs.js file . In the UserAgent
discussion, I showed an example of what a new entry
in the Prefs.js would look like.
That's the kind of place the two items above will go.
We're talking about Firefox, then the Firefox Configuration Editor
is where you would be modifying the values that are there by default.
Browser startup homepage, is a STRING which is a URL. And
we're using "about:blank", for a "clean look" when the browser starts.
The "homepage_override_url" is being set to a value that won't load,
so you can tell when that override is being used by the browser.
Paul
After thinking about it,.. couldn't I just use the
8500 Rescue CD and restore it using the mrimg ?
Also when I clicked the
paganini.bofh.team
m.p.w general - it gave me the error message.
https://postimg.cc/tsNMf5tL
Thanks,
Robert
The SMStore on Paganini has been fixed. We reported it a couple
days ago. It was preventing posting.
Regarding your OS problem, the very first step would be determining
what indicator said you had updates. I hope this was the Microsoft
reboot indicator
Round circle with arrow heads, a tinge of red color...
That means a Windows Update is coming in.
*******
A "Missing OS" message comes from the MBR (Sector 0 on the disk drive).
That is the bootstrap code that runs on Legacy BIOS machines, as
part of booting.
If there was an Active Partition on the disk drive, that would be
what the MBR assembler code searches for. It tries to find the
Active Partition.
If you were on a UEFI computer, the boot on that is different. The
UEFI in the BIOS, is a bit more intelligent, and it looks for certain
storage locations for evidence of UEFI-boot operating systems. I presume the XPS 8500 does not do that. You know your machine better than I do.
It could be, if the boot menu was being updated, and the boot menu
sees some second disk drive, the booting process could be pointed to
the wrong disk drive.
*******
Remember that your Macrium Rescue CD, has an interesting function. It has
a "Boot Repair" menu item.
It will ask you a couple questions. It will guess at which partition is which.
It will ask you to confirm which C: partition(s) are the ones you want included in the menu.
A second question, will be to confirm which is the Active partition.
That question is harder to answer. On a setup I was working with the other day, the setup looked like this.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/KzhXLRYB/Win10-legacy-boot-Active-Partition.gif
But nevertheless, you the computer operator, know the two partitions
you want Macrium to use, are on that same single hard drive. It it
pretty hard to go wrong.
It's unlikely something Windows did, erased a partition. When you use
the Macrium CD *Backup menu*, it will show you a view of the disk drive, before you attempt a Boot Repair from the pull down menu. Seeing that
can help you determine how to answer when using the Boot Repair later.
A "Missing OS" message could even come from a brand new disk
you've been playing with on the computer, and you have selected
the wrong drive in the popup boot :-) I've had that happen before.
Paul
You won’t believe it, but I switched over to Win10 on the 8500 and
loaded the Rescue CD just in case,.. well as soon as it started it started to load updates and then finished by cleaning and it came up
as normal ! Whew!!!!!!!!!!
https://postimg.cc/t7DQRCLN
I checked and apparently I clicked the notifications icon on the lower right.
Thanks,
Robert
On Wed, 3/12/2025 9:12 AM, RobnCA wrote:
You won’t believe it, but I switched over to Win10 on the 8500 and
loaded the Rescue CD just in case,.. well as soon as it started it started to load updates and then finished by cleaning and it came up
as normal ! Whew!!!!!!!!!!
https://postimg.cc/t7DQRCLN
I checked and apparently I clicked the notifications icon on the lower right.
Thanks,
Robert
You must have unplugged some drive, or made some
change to a boot order, and the item-that-was-not-an-OS
stopped trying to boot :-)
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/12/2025 9:12 AM, RobnCA wrote:I don't remember doing anything,.. but you
You won’t believe it, but I switched over to Win10 on the 8500 and
loaded the Rescue CD just in case,.. well as soon as it started it started to load updates and then finished by cleaning and it came up
as normal ! Whew!!!!!!!!!!
https://postimg.cc/t7DQRCLN
I checked and apparently I clicked the notifications icon on the lower right.
Thanks,
Robert
You must have unplugged some drive, or made some
change to a boot order, and the item-that-was-not-an-OS
stopped trying to boot :-)
Paul
know my history better than anyone.
I thought since the 8500 Win 10 updated and came back
normally that it might not be a bad idea to create a mrimg.
So that's what I did but while switching cables I noticed
a burn mark on the inside lid. The computer seems OK
and there's no sign of a burnout but that's weird.
I remember it got very loud once humming and I thought it
was going to explode and maybe that's what happened?
https://postimg.cc/MnFfcq2N
https://postimg.cc/D4nSVzLJ
https://postimg.cc/Fkp7hQVP
p.s. I tried to send the message through paganini but I got this
error msg. This has happened more than once.
https://postimg.cc/ZBZNmjh5
https://postimg.cc/nXy7RpR7
Robert
On Thu, 3/13/2025 11:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/12/2025 9:12 AM, RobnCA wrote:I don't remember doing anything,.. but you
You won’t believe it, but I switched over to Win10 on the 8500 and
loaded the Rescue CD just in case,.. well as soon as it started it started to load updates and then finished by cleaning and it came up
as normal ! Whew!!!!!!!!!!
https://postimg.cc/t7DQRCLN
I checked and apparently I clicked the notifications icon on the lower right.
Thanks,
Robert
You must have unplugged some drive, or made some
change to a boot order, and the item-that-was-not-an-OS
stopped trying to boot :-)
Paul
know my history better than anyone.
I thought since the 8500 Win 10 updated and came back
normally that it might not be a bad idea to create a mrimg.
So that's what I did but while switching cables I noticed
a burn mark on the inside lid. The computer seems OK
and there's no sign of a burnout but that's weird.
I remember it got very loud once humming and I thought it
was going to explode and maybe that's what happened?
https://postimg.cc/MnFfcq2N
https://postimg.cc/D4nSVzLJ
https://postimg.cc/Fkp7hQVP
p.s. I tried to send the message through paganini but I got this
error msg. This has happened more than once.
https://postimg.cc/ZBZNmjh5
https://postimg.cc/nXy7RpR7
Robert
Check your Daylight Saving Time to see if the hour is correct.
NNTP (USENET) servers, can be set to reject attempts to modify
the date. For example, if you set the date on a computer, well
into the future, a posting can be permanently at the head end of
a group. Which is what the attacker seeks to do. The server then,
compares the date of the posting computer, to the server date
(perhaps converted to UTC in each case, for comparison). On intolerant servers (setting is too tight), only a max of a one hour difference
is allowed. Check your date and time, verify DST or whatever
is giving a correct local time.
*******
See if the burn mark, lines up with the main fan.
It's possible the fan jammed and stopped spinning. The Dell with
the five wire fan, the machine can send quite a bit of power
to the fan, when "vacuum cleaner speed" is called for. The
machine moderates the spinning of the fan, according to temperature.
When the machine first starts up, the BIOS is not booted, the
fan spools up to max speed. As long as the BIOS starts in a short
time, the fan spins down to a more normal speed. The speed is "Max"
until the BIOS programs the correct value -- this is on purpose.
You can clean the blade of the fan, with a paper towel and
a bit of isopropyl alcohol, or even just water if you want.
It depends on what kind of crud lands on the fan blades, as
to what kind of fluid cleaner works best. Something like
acetone might attack the plastic blade, and you don't
want to imbalance the fan.
I few computer fans have metal blades, but that isn't too common.
If the bearing is a sleeve bearing, those fit rather loosely,
and sometimes the fan will rattle on its bearing instead of
spinning smoothly. The fan will spin slower than normal.
The noise will draw your attention to the problem.
For the sleeve bearing fan then, it's time to look for a
new one.
The Dell fans with the five wire interface, aren't too common.
I haven't looked for one of those for at least ten years,
and I have no idea how hard they are to purchase a replacement.
A "typical" high power fan, lasts for around 50,000 hours.
The best of the most recent fans (not a good replacement for
your fan), last for 150,000 hours (which is unusual as a value).
Bearing types are sleeve (cheap), ball bearing (a bit noisy)
and FDB (Fluid Dynamic Bearing, frictionless) or SSO.
It is hard to say, whether the "vacuum cleaner mode" of the
Dell main fan, is really necessary. The fan normally, runs
a lot lower than max, and it is better for the fan to run in
the middle of its range, than to be dawdling at the low end
of the range.
In any case, when cleaning the fan, do not tug on the bearing
while cleaning the blades. I ruined a CPU cooler fan once, by
being a bit too energetic when cleaning the blade.
Fans are even sensitive to being dropped. If you order fans
by post, and you have just opened the box and a fan falls
on the table, a small drop like that can ruin the bearing
(it makes the fan noisier than it should be, but it still spins).
For best results then, the item should be in bubble wrap, to
protect it.
1) Give the blade a clean.
2) Check for free play in the blade. Is
the blade loose on the bearing, wobbles a bit ?
It may need to be replaced.
Fans have one orientation they don't like. I had an Antec
here which was blowing air upwards in the computer case, and
that is hard on the bearing. Some fans have a coil spring to
counter that gravity loading a bit, and such a fan may hold up
better. In the opposite direction, blowing downward, the fan
is unlikely to feel stress in that orientation.
Paul
Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of
other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
boot order? etc.
Thanks,
Robert
On Fri, 3/14/2025 4:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of
other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
boot order? etc.
Thanks,
Robert
You can browse through the settings, and make note of
the things you have changed.
a few machines, have the ability to "record a profile",
which can be stored on a USB stick. But for many others,
corrections to the settings are done manually, after
the battery is changed.
The X79 here, it stored the CMOS settings profile
in the BIOS chip. If I change the battery on that machine,
I do a "Load Profile #1" in the BIOS screen, and all the
settings come back (custom memory timing settings).
Custom memory settings are only required, when the
machine makes poor choices. Most of the time (like on
a Dell), the settings are conservative and "standard"
settings should work just fine. It took me a week
of testing, for the custom settings. That's why they
are recorded in a Profile, so I won't lose them :-)
Paul
On Fri, 3/14/2025 4:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of
other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
boot order? etc.
Thanks,
Robert
You can browse through the settings, and make note of
the things you have changed.
a few machines, have the ability to "record a profile",
which can be stored on a USB stick. But for many others,
corrections to the settings are done manually, after
the battery is changed.
The X79 here, it stored the CMOS settings profile
in the BIOS chip. If I change the battery on that machine,
I do a "Load Profile #1" in the BIOS screen, and all the
settings come back (custom memory timing settings).
Custom memory settings are only required, when the
machine makes poor choices. Most of the time (like on
a Dell), the settings are conservative and "standard"
settings should work just fine. It took me a week
of testing, for the custom settings. That's why they
are recorded in a Profile, so I won't lose them :-)
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 3/14/2025 4:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of
other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
boot order? etc.
Thanks,
Robert
You can browse through the settings, and make note of
the things you have changed.
a few machines, have the ability to "record a profile",
which can be stored on a USB stick. But for many others,
corrections to the settings are done manually, after
the battery is changed.
The X79 here, it stored the CMOS settings profile
in the BIOS chip. If I change the battery on that machine,
I do a "Load Profile #1" in the BIOS screen, and all the
settings come back (custom memory timing settings).
Custom memory settings are only required, when the
machine makes poor choices. Most of the time (like on
a Dell), the settings are conservative and "standard"
settings should work just fine. It took me a week
of testing, for the custom settings. That's why they
are recorded in a Profile, so I won't lose them :-)
Paul
I ran a HD-Tune on the 8500,..
https://postimg.cc/cgwMkXm8
https://postimg.cc/ZvLP4nXb
https://postimg.cc/NL8Z54cM
https://postimg.cc/6y9gRvWh
The fan seems OK and as I said the computer is
totally silent however I still would like to get a
fan just in case.
If I cannot get a new 5 pin fan for the 8500
could I get a similar fan and a 5 pin adaptor?
Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 3/14/2025 4:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of
other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
boot order? etc.
Thanks,
Robert
You can browse through the settings, and make note of
the things you have changed.
a few machines, have the ability to "record a profile",
which can be stored on a USB stick. But for many others,
corrections to the settings are done manually, after
the battery is changed.
The X79 here, it stored the CMOS settings profile
in the BIOS chip. If I change the battery on that machine,
I do a "Load Profile #1" in the BIOS screen, and all the
settings come back (custom memory timing settings).
Custom memory settings are only required, when the
machine makes poor choices. Most of the time (like on
a Dell), the settings are conservative and "standard"
settings should work just fine. It took me a week
of testing, for the custom settings. That's why they
are recorded in a Profile, so I won't lose them :-)
Paul
I ran a HD-Tune on the 8500,..
https://postimg.cc/cgwMkXm8 ST2000DM001 ~37C seek dots look better than blue line
https://postimg.cc/ZvLP4nXb Info Tab (normal)
https://postimg.cc/NL8Z54cM Reallocated = 0
https://postimg.cc/6y9gRvWh Current Pending Sector = 0 [only goes non-zero near end-of-life]
The fan seems OK and as I said the computer is
totally silent however I still would like to get a
fan just in case.
If I cannot get a new 5 pin fan for the 8500
could I get a similar fan and a 5 pin adaptor?
Thanks,
Robert
On Sat, 3/15/2025 7:48 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 3/14/2025 4:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of
other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
boot order? etc.
Thanks,
Robert
You can browse through the settings, and make note of
the things you have changed.
a few machines, have the ability to "record a profile",
which can be stored on a USB stick. But for many others,
corrections to the settings are done manually, after
the battery is changed.
The X79 here, it stored the CMOS settings profile
in the BIOS chip. If I change the battery on that machine,
I do a "Load Profile #1" in the BIOS screen, and all the
settings come back (custom memory timing settings).
Custom memory settings are only required, when the
machine makes poor choices. Most of the time (like on
a Dell), the settings are conservative and "standard"
settings should work just fine. It took me a week
of testing, for the custom settings. That's why they
are recorded in a Profile, so I won't lose them :-)
Paul
I ran a HD-Tune on the 8500,..
https://postimg.cc/cgwMkXm8
https://postimg.cc/ZvLP4nXb
https://postimg.cc/NL8Z54cM
https://postimg.cc/6y9gRvWh
The fan seems OK and as I said the computer is
totally silent however I still would like to get a
fan just in case.
If I cannot get a new 5 pin fan for the 8500
could I get a similar fan and a 5 pin adaptor?
Thanks,
Robert
The HDTune results, still look to me like some interference
with the test, rather than a bad drive. The spacing of the spikes
is a bit too regular. The other thing to look at, is the yellow
seek dots are in a nice tight band, with no dots resting outside
the band. That is inconsistent with the spikes in the blue line,
and if the spikes in the blue line were "real", there would
be a sprinkling of yellow dots outside the band.
I ran off some scans, for a post I made earlier today, and
the seek dots between the first and second scan look different
from one another. There seemed to be a bit of interference
with the first scan (down near the end), and whatever the interference
was, also made the first bit of seek dots worse.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/MKC7PQpt/benchmark-as-HDD-health-check.gif
And really, nothing should be interfering with the non-OS drive.
If you have a separate data drive, it should be possible to
benchmark that, without interference happening.
The two drives in my example, I consider them to be perfectly
healthy, and I have no reason to be buying replacements,
based on the scan results. If there were funny sounds coming from
the drive, then I might consider it. It depends on what the sound is.
In the old days, the anti-static spring that touches the
spindle hub, used to make a noise, but that wasn't a reason to
replace a drive. They no longer use that scheme to ground
the spindle. The spindle may have been grounded, to prevent
electrostatic charge buildup. You can tell from some of the
things they did in the past, they were pretty worried about
internal ESD on the drives. ESD could easily blow a head
on the drive, if it happened. The amplifier chip would be unlikely
to handle ESD all that well. Today there are fewer obvious
artifacts indicating a great concern about static charge.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 3/15/2025 7:48 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 3/14/2025 4:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of
other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
boot order? etc.
Thanks,
Robert
You can browse through the settings, and make note of
the things you have changed.
a few machines, have the ability to "record a profile",
which can be stored on a USB stick. But for many others,
corrections to the settings are done manually, after
the battery is changed.
The X79 here, it stored the CMOS settings profile
in the BIOS chip. If I change the battery on that machine,
I do a "Load Profile #1" in the BIOS screen, and all the
settings come back (custom memory timing settings).
Custom memory settings are only required, when the
machine makes poor choices. Most of the time (like on
a Dell), the settings are conservative and "standard"
settings should work just fine. It took me a week
of testing, for the custom settings. That's why they
are recorded in a Profile, so I won't lose them :-)
Paul
I ran a HD-Tune on the 8500,..
https://postimg.cc/cgwMkXm8
https://postimg.cc/ZvLP4nXb
https://postimg.cc/NL8Z54cM
https://postimg.cc/6y9gRvWh
The fan seems OK and as I said the computer is
totally silent however I still would like to get a
fan just in case.
If I cannot get a new 5 pin fan for the 8500
could I get a similar fan and a 5 pin adaptor?
Thanks,
Robert
The HDTune results, still look to me like some interference
with the test, rather than a bad drive. The spacing of the spikes
is a bit too regular. The other thing to look at, is the yellow
seek dots are in a nice tight band, with no dots resting outside
the band. That is inconsistent with the spikes in the blue line,
and if the spikes in the blue line were "real", there would
be a sprinkling of yellow dots outside the band.
I ran off some scans, for a post I made earlier today, and
the seek dots between the first and second scan look different
from one another. There seemed to be a bit of interference
with the first scan (down near the end), and whatever the interference
was, also made the first bit of seek dots worse.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/MKC7PQpt/benchmark-as-HDD-health-check.gif >>
And really, nothing should be interfering with the non-OS drive.
If you have a separate data drive, it should be possible to
benchmark that, without interference happening.
The two drives in my example, I consider them to be perfectly
healthy, and I have no reason to be buying replacements,
based on the scan results. If there were funny sounds coming from
the drive, then I might consider it. It depends on what the sound is.
In the old days, the anti-static spring that touches the
spindle hub, used to make a noise, but that wasn't a reason to
replace a drive. They no longer use that scheme to ground
the spindle. The spindle may have been grounded, to prevent
electrostatic charge buildup. You can tell from some of the
things they did in the past, they were pretty worried about
internal ESD on the drives. ESD could easily blow a head
on the drive, if it happened. The amplifier chip would be unlikely
to handle ESD all that well. Today there are fewer obvious
artifacts indicating a great concern about static charge.
Paul
Should I change the battery in the 780?
The fan is fine at present in the 8500, this is for the future.
I did not realize computer fans were so involved. I thought
they were all the same. I searched and I did find a fan but its
Made in China
https://www.newegg.com/p/0VE-05FM-001V3
I can open up the 8500 and remove the fan and take a picture
of its label if that helps?
I did three more HD-Tunes,.
https://postimg.cc/WqVjfBtZ
https://postimg.cc/XXKnyYDk
https://postimg.cc/MvWq0JC2
Robert
On Sun, 3/16/2025 9:40 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 3/15/2025 7:48 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 3/14/2025 4:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of >>>>>> other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
boot order? etc.
Thanks,
Robert
You can browse through the settings, and make note of
the things you have changed.
a few machines, have the ability to "record a profile",
which can be stored on a USB stick. But for many others,
corrections to the settings are done manually, after
the battery is changed.
The X79 here, it stored the CMOS settings profile
in the BIOS chip. If I change the battery on that machine,
I do a "Load Profile #1" in the BIOS screen, and all the
settings come back (custom memory timing settings).
Custom memory settings are only required, when the
machine makes poor choices. Most of the time (like on
a Dell), the settings are conservative and "standard"
settings should work just fine. It took me a week
of testing, for the custom settings. That's why they
are recorded in a Profile, so I won't lose them :-)
Paul
I ran a HD-Tune on the 8500,..
https://postimg.cc/cgwMkXm8
https://postimg.cc/ZvLP4nXb
https://postimg.cc/NL8Z54cM
https://postimg.cc/6y9gRvWh
The fan seems OK and as I said the computer is
totally silent however I still would like to get a
fan just in case.
If I cannot get a new 5 pin fan for the 8500
could I get a similar fan and a 5 pin adaptor?
Thanks,
Robert
The HDTune results, still look to me like some interference
with the test, rather than a bad drive. The spacing of the spikes
is a bit too regular. The other thing to look at, is the yellow
seek dots are in a nice tight band, with no dots resting outside
the band. That is inconsistent with the spikes in the blue line,
and if the spikes in the blue line were "real", there would
be a sprinkling of yellow dots outside the band.
I ran off some scans, for a post I made earlier today, and
the seek dots between the first and second scan look different
from one another. There seemed to be a bit of interference
with the first scan (down near the end), and whatever the interference
was, also made the first bit of seek dots worse.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/MKC7PQpt/benchmark-as-HDD-health-check.gif >>>
And really, nothing should be interfering with the non-OS drive.
If you have a separate data drive, it should be possible to
benchmark that, without interference happening.
The two drives in my example, I consider them to be perfectly
healthy, and I have no reason to be buying replacements,
based on the scan results. If there were funny sounds coming from
the drive, then I might consider it. It depends on what the sound is.
In the old days, the anti-static spring that touches the
spindle hub, used to make a noise, but that wasn't a reason to
replace a drive. They no longer use that scheme to ground
the spindle. The spindle may have been grounded, to prevent
electrostatic charge buildup. You can tell from some of the
things they did in the past, they were pretty worried about
internal ESD on the drives. ESD could easily blow a head
on the drive, if it happened. The amplifier chip would be unlikely
to handle ESD all that well. Today there are fewer obvious
artifacts indicating a great concern about static charge.
Paul
Should I change the battery in the 780?
The fan is fine at present in the 8500, this is for the future.
I did not realize computer fans were so involved. I thought
they were all the same. I searched and I did find a fan but its
Made in China
https://www.newegg.com/p/0VE-05FM-001V3
I can open up the 8500 and remove the fan and take a picture
of its label if that helps?
I did three more HD-Tunes,.
https://postimg.cc/WqVjfBtZ
https://postimg.cc/XXKnyYDk
https://postimg.cc/MvWq0JC2
Robert
But you are seeing the same sort of thing I see.
The spikes are moving around.
If a disk drive has an issue, the "bad" areas, the spikes
don't move. Each and every run, a "bad spike" should be reproduced.
The spikes would be caused by the drive having to look for
a reallocated sector which is not local to the track. Normally the
spares would be local to the area, and the processing time to handle
a remapped sector causes a minor change in speed.
It could be, that AVG is sampling data on the disk. Just a guess.
I don't use AVG here, so I don't know what the AVG dining
habits are.
Your last scan looks reasonably clean. The shape of the curve is
not wonky.
Paul
I opened up the 8500 and took a picture of the fan label.
https://postimg.cc/NyRXkNQc
Here's a picture of the correct fan mounting(arrow out). I
wish there was a way to remove the fan from the power
housing so I could clean it.
https://postimg.cc/fJvgBKTY
Robert
On Sun, 3/16/2025 7:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 and took a picture of the fan label.
https://postimg.cc/NyRXkNQc
Here's a picture of the correct fan mounting(arrow out). I
wish there was a way to remove the fan from the power
housing so I could clean it.
https://postimg.cc/fJvgBKTY
Robert
This could be an XPS 8500. There are black screws loaded
into the bottom holes of the standards-compliant fan that
line up with "stand holes" on the side of the heatsink.
Undoing the four black screws, should allow the fan to be
lifted off the aluminum heatsink. When unscrewing the four
screws, remember these are steel screws cutting into
aluminum, and these can churn up tiny flecks of metal.
When screwing the screws back in, don't overdo it on screw
force and cut any more aluminum metal flecks off than necessary,
because they might fall into something electrical.
https://nattokude.gozaru.jp/image/xps8500/xps8500_073.jpg
The heatsink, I think that may have been a boxed Intel heatsink
shipped at one time. It doesn't have a copper slug for conduction
in the center, and is typically good for 65W CPUs. Yours
is a 3770K. That is listed as 77W, so pretty close.
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/65523/intel-core-i73770k-processor-8m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz/specifications.html
Some people have fastened replacement heatsinks to the
3770K (presumably as a vanity item). You can get much
more fancy coolers, for no particular reason. You would
consider an alternate cooling design, if some other part
of the motherboard needed cooling.
On my X48 motherboard, I used a blow-down cooler from Coolermaster,
as that helps cool the odd thing on the motherboard surface too.
The blow-down cooler in my current PC, doesn't work worth a damn,
in the sense that almost no airflow hits the motherboard surface,
so this purchase was not all that exceptional. I only have it
in the PC at the current time, so it won't be "wasted" by
sitting on the shelf. The current PC does not draw that much
power -- my other machine is more power hungry and got a bigger cooler.
You should keep the openings in the heatsink clean, but the
Intel design does not exactly make this easy. It doesn't look
like a Q-tip is going to work.
In any case, I think you can figure out some sort of way
to clean that up a bit. While you could take it all apart,
you'd need thermal paste to butter it up (bottom of heatsink)
before reassembly, which is not much of a problem, but the other
part is removing the phase change material already printed on
the heatsink, and that involves scraping followed by
a cleanup with isopropyl. Not my favorite job to do,
as the isopropyl is likely not the best material for
the job. Still, it's what I use for cleanup, as that's
all I've got. There is a "cleaner/purifier" you can buy
as a liquid, but it's for a specific kind of paste removal.
The custom cleaners can work really well (but are intended
for one specific kind of cleaning job).
There are a total of eight screws. Four screws (a bit hidden)
hold the fan. Four screws (into the motherboard), hold the
heatsink to the motherboard. The heatsink screws typically
have springs on them, to control the tension.
To clean the fan, only the fan screws need to be removed.
Paul
On Sun, 3/16/2025 7:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 and took a picture of the fan label.
https://postimg.cc/NyRXkNQc
Here's a picture of the correct fan mounting(arrow out). I
wish there was a way to remove the fan from the power
housing so I could clean it.
https://postimg.cc/fJvgBKTY
Robert
This could be an XPS 8500. There are black screws loaded
into the bottom holes of the standards-compliant fan that
line up with "stand holes" on the side of the heatsink.
Undoing the four black screws, should allow the fan to be
lifted off the aluminum heatsink. When unscrewing the four
screws, remember these are steel screws cutting into
aluminum, and these can churn up tiny flecks of metal.
When screwing the screws back in, don't overdo it on screw
force and cut any more aluminum metal flecks off than necessary,
because they might fall into something electrical.
https://nattokude.gozaru.jp/image/xps8500/xps8500_073.jpg
The heatsink, I think that may have been a boxed Intel heatsink
shipped at one time. It doesn't have a copper slug for conduction
in the center, and is typically good for 65W CPUs. Yours
is a 3770K. That is listed as 77W, so pretty close.
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/65523/intel-core-i73770k-processor-8m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz/specifications.html
Some people have fastened replacement heatsinks to the
3770K (presumably as a vanity item). You can get much
more fancy coolers, for no particular reason. You would
consider an alternate cooling design, if some other part
of the motherboard needed cooling.
On my X48 motherboard, I used a blow-down cooler from Coolermaster,
as that helps cool the odd thing on the motherboard surface too.
The blow-down cooler in my current PC, doesn't work worth a damn,
in the sense that almost no airflow hits the motherboard surface,
so this purchase was not all that exceptional. I only have it
in the PC at the current time, so it won't be "wasted" by
sitting on the shelf. The current PC does not draw that much
power -- my other machine is more power hungry and got a bigger cooler.
You should keep the openings in the heatsink clean, but the
Intel design does not exactly make this easy. It doesn't look
like a Q-tip is going to work.
In any case, I think you can figure out some sort of way
to clean that up a bit. While you could take it all apart,
you'd need thermal paste to butter it up (bottom of heatsink)
before reassembly, which is not much of a problem, but the other
part is removing the phase change material already printed on
the heatsink, and that involves scraping followed by
a cleanup with isopropyl. Not my favorite job to do,
as the isopropyl is likely not the best material for
the job. Still, it's what I use for cleanup, as that's
all I've got. There is a "cleaner/purifier" you can buy
as a liquid, but it's for a specific kind of paste removal.
The custom cleaners can work really well (but are intended
for one specific kind of cleaning job).
There are a total of eight screws. Four screws (a bit hidden)
hold the fan. Four screws (into the motherboard), hold the
heatsink to the motherboard. The heatsink screws typically
have springs on them, to control the tension.
To clean the fan, only the fan screws need to be removed.
Paul
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 3/16/2025 7:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 and took a picture of the fan label.
https://postimg.cc/NyRXkNQc
Here's a picture of the correct fan mounting(arrow out). I
wish there was a way to remove the fan from the power
housing so I could clean it.
https://postimg.cc/fJvgBKTY
Robert
This could be an XPS 8500. There are black screws loaded
into the bottom holes of the standards-compliant fan that
line up with "stand holes" on the side of the heatsink.
Undoing the four black screws, should allow the fan to be
lifted off the aluminum heatsink. When unscrewing the four
screws, remember these are steel screws cutting into
aluminum, and these can churn up tiny flecks of metal.
When screwing the screws back in, don't overdo it on screw
force and cut any more aluminum metal flecks off than necessary,
because they might fall into something electrical.
https://nattokude.gozaru.jp/image/xps8500/xps8500_073.jpg
The heatsink, I think that may have been a boxed Intel heatsink
shipped at one time. It doesn't have a copper slug for conduction
in the center, and is typically good for 65W CPUs. Yours
is a 3770K. That is listed as 77W, so pretty close.
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/65523/intel-core-i73770k-processor-8m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz/specifications.html
Some people have fastened replacement heatsinks to the
3770K (presumably as a vanity item). You can get much
more fancy coolers, for no particular reason. You would
consider an alternate cooling design, if some other part
of the motherboard needed cooling.
On my X48 motherboard, I used a blow-down cooler from Coolermaster,
as that helps cool the odd thing on the motherboard surface too.
The blow-down cooler in my current PC, doesn't work worth a damn,
in the sense that almost no airflow hits the motherboard surface,
so this purchase was not all that exceptional. I only have it
in the PC at the current time, so it won't be "wasted" by
sitting on the shelf. The current PC does not draw that much
power -- my other machine is more power hungry and got a bigger cooler.
You should keep the openings in the heatsink clean, but the
Intel design does not exactly make this easy. It doesn't look
like a Q-tip is going to work.
In any case, I think you can figure out some sort of way
to clean that up a bit. While you could take it all apart,
you'd need thermal paste to butter it up (bottom of heatsink)
before reassembly, which is not much of a problem, but the other
part is removing the phase change material already printed on
the heatsink, and that involves scraping followed by
a cleanup with isopropyl. Not my favorite job to do,
as the isopropyl is likely not the best material for
the job. Still, it's what I use for cleanup, as that's
all I've got. There is a "cleaner/purifier" you can buy
as a liquid, but it's for a specific kind of paste removal.
The custom cleaners can work really well (but are intended
for one specific kind of cleaning job).
There are a total of eight screws. Four screws (a bit hidden)
hold the fan. Four screws (into the motherboard), hold the
heatsink to the motherboard. The heatsink screws typically
have springs on them, to control the tension.
To clean the fan, only the fan screws need to be removed.
Paul
I didn't actually mean the fan on the heat sink,.. I meant the fan behind
the grill with holes of the power supply.
I don't know if I want to disassemble the heat sink to clean it. I honestly thought I had cleaned it pretty good from before. Of course if I removed
it I could do a better job but man that's just asking for trouble with my history and I don't have your expertise. Were talking about the 8500
remember and I don't want to screw that up. I thought I also cleaned the
fan pretty good.
Maybe I can remove the fan to gain access to the heat sink and clean it
more thoroughly?
In passing,.. should I change the battery in the 780?
Thanks,
Robert
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).
When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.
*******
The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
and one location on the connector is a key.
The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.
Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.
15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
The 37.5 one can move more air.
40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The
XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.
The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.
For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
(cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
whether it's a replacement or not.
You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
on it, and you can Google that for replacements.
*******
The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81
*******
Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.
Paul
On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).
When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.
*******
The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
and one location on the connector is a key.
The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.
Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.
15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
The 37.5 one can move more air.
40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The
XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.
The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.
For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
(cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
whether it's a replacement or not.
You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
on it, and you can Google that for replacements.
*******
The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81
*******
Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.
Paul
On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).
When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.
*******
The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
and one location on the connector is a key.
The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.
Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.
15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
The 37.5 one can move more air.
40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The
XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.
The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.
For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
(cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
whether it's a replacement or not.
You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
on it, and you can Google that for replacements.
*******
The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81
*******
Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.
Paul
On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).
When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.
*******
The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
and one location on the connector is a key.
The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.
Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.
15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
The 37.5 one can move more air.
40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The
XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.
The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.
For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
(cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
whether it's a replacement or not.
You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
on it, and you can Google that for replacements.
*******
The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81
*******
Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).
When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.
*******
The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
and one location on the connector is a key.
The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.
Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.
15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
The 37.5 one can move more air.
40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The >> XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.
The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.
For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
(cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
whether it's a replacement or not.
You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
on it, and you can Google that for replacements.
*******
The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81
*******
Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.
Paul
I did some searches for the 8500 rear fan and
I found this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/113091985003
I also did searches for the heat sink fan
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186382890448
What do you think?
Robert
On Thu, 3/20/2025 3:24 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).
When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.
*******
The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
and one location on the connector is a key.
The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.
Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.
15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
The 37.5 one can move more air.
40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The >>> XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.
The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.
For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
(cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
whether it's a replacement or not.
You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
on it, and you can Google that for replacements.
*******
The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81
*******
Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.
Paul
I did some searches for the 8500 rear fan and
I found this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/113091985003
I also did searches for the heat sink fan
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186382890448
What do you think?
Robert
As long as they match the Dell part number, they should be fine.
The Dell part number on the fans at least, should be on the
hub sticker.
I don't know how you get the five pin (four wires plus keying pin)
off the Dell Optiplex 780. There's a tab on the side
of it, but it is not clear what you do with the tab,
to make the connector release.
That's one of the problems with messing around with
this stuff. The undocumented proprietary stuff (like
putting the wires in the wrong order), that's the kind
of stuff I don't enjoy.
And before you take the Intel heatsink off your processor,
it would help to at least have a tube of AS5 or similar.
And maybe some "cleaner/purifier", anything that makes
cleanup of the heatsink surface easier. Ordinary thermal paste
cleans off easily, compared to the phase change stuff that
has to be scraped off. The phase change becomes "plastic"
and "flows" when it is heated up.
At my computer store, there is an ashtray next to the cash,
and it has the small-size tubes of AS5 in it.
My first tube of thermal paste (AS3?), lasted around 15 years :-)
I guess I'm just not adventurous enough. I now have the
big tube of AS5.
Some of my heatsinks here, are more of a challenge than the Dell.
For those, you get both hands underneath them, and feel
the screw and mount point with a finger, in an attempt
to line them up. You muscles will be aching after ten
minutes of the damn screw thread not picking up, after
repeated attempts to start it. That's the fun of
messing with heatsinks. Or when I re-greased a video card,
having the thing slide around while I'm trying to get the
screws into it. This stuff is loads of fun, no matter
how many times you practice assembly with the heatsink
dry (no paste on it, while you practice).
Paul
On Thu, 3/20/2025 3:24 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).
When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.
*******
The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
and one location on the connector is a key.
The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.
Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.
15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
The 37.5 one can move more air.
40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The >>> XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.
The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.
For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
(cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
whether it's a replacement or not.
You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
on it, and you can Google that for replacements.
*******
The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81
*******
Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.
Paul
I did some searches for the 8500 rear fan and
I found this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/113091985003
I also did searches for the heat sink fan
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186382890448
What do you think?
Robert
As long as they match the Dell part number, they should be fine.
The Dell part number on the fans at least, should be on the
hub sticker.
I don't know how you get the five pin (four wires plus keying pin)
off the Dell Optiplex 780. There's a tab on the side
of it, but it is not clear what you do with the tab,
to make the connector release.
That's one of the problems with messing around with
this stuff. The undocumented proprietary stuff (like
putting the wires in the wrong order), that's the kind
of stuff I don't enjoy.
And before you take the Intel heatsink off your processor,
it would help to at least have a tube of AS5 or similar.
And maybe some "cleaner/purifier", anything that makes
cleanup of the heatsink surface easier. Ordinary thermal paste
cleans off easily, compared to the phase change stuff that
has to be scraped off. The phase change becomes "plastic"
and "flows" when it is heated up.
At my computer store, there is an ashtray next to the cash,
and it has the small-size tubes of AS5 in it.
My first tube of thermal paste (AS3?), lasted around 15 years :-)
I guess I'm just not adventurous enough. I now have the
big tube of AS5.
Some of my heatsinks here, are more of a challenge than the Dell.
For those, you get both hands underneath them, and feel
the screw and mount point with a finger, in an attempt
to line them up. You muscles will be aching after ten
minutes of the damn screw thread not picking up, after
repeated attempts to start it. That's the fun of
messing with heatsinks. Or when I re-greased a video card,
having the thing slide around while I'm trying to get the
screws into it. This stuff is loads of fun, no matter
how many times you practice assembly with the heatsink
dry (no paste on it, while you practice).
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).
When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.
*******
The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
and one location on the connector is a key.
The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.
Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.
15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
The 37.5 one can move more air.
40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The >> XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.
The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.
For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
(cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
whether it's a replacement or not.
You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
on it, and you can Google that for replacements.
*******
The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81
*******
Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.
Paul
I guess I missed your post on checking the temp of the CPU.
https://postimg.cc/18mnvhhB
I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to remove
the fan.
I still have to buy the battery for the 780 and install it. I'll
let you know.
Robert
On Fri, 3/21/2025 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).
When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.
*******
The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
and one location on the connector is a key.
The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.
Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.
15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
The 37.5 one can move more air.
40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The >>> XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.
The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.
For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
(cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
whether it's a replacement or not.
You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
on it, and you can Google that for replacements.
*******
The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81
*******
Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.
Paul
I guess I missed your post on checking the temp of the CPU.
https://postimg.cc/18mnvhhB
I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to remove
the fan.
I still have to buy the battery for the 780 and install it. I'll
let you know.
Robert
Your Hardware Monitor might look like this. Use the scroll bar.
The "snippingtool.exe" can take pictures. If you are not
running this with your Administrator account, that will hamper
what the readout can do. That's why yours does not have the
same rows this one has.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/6p85d9xG/hwmonitor-dell-optiplex-780.gif
*******
The two screws that hold the shroud over the CPU, also
undo the heatsink! The shroud and heatsink are one and the same.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/J0RdL456/Dell-Optiplex-780-Heatsink-Removal.jpg
After cleaning the AS5 off that, I put some dots of AS5 before
screwing the shroud back on. May have to wiggle the plastic part
a little bit, so the two spring-loaded shroud screws, go into
the screw holes.
Arctic Silver 5 (listed prices are getting silly now)
https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb1280/35-100-007-04.jpg
*******
To do the battery, you need to move the video card out of there.
Flip the "tool-less" holder on the outside of the case, so the
video card can rise up.
Get your fingers down near the heel guard, depress the heel
guard so the card can rise up, while rocking the card back to front
and ease it upward, all the while keeping the heel guard depressed
so it does not snag as the card comes up. You can grip the card by
the faceplate to establish the grounding (for ESD purposes while handling). (Power should be disconnected while doing this.)
Now that you have the video card out of the way, the CR2032 socket should
be visible.
----
/____\ <=== battery tucks in at the top
low point here ==> <=== low point here (could pry up with jewelers screwdriver)
\-- --/ <=== annoying two snaps won't allow cell to rise
With a little tension at the low point, "flick"
your finger nail, pushing the snap downwards.
It may take a few tries before the cell pops upward
at the "snaps" end. Really, one snap would have been
sufficient. Two snaps is "customer abuse".
So that's how you change the coin cell. Looks like CR2032.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Rh0Qd3RB/Dell-Optiplex-780-CR2032-cell.jpg
Paul
On Fri, 3/21/2025 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).
When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.
*******
The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
and one location on the connector is a key.
The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.
Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.
15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
The 37.5 one can move more air.
40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The >>> XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.
The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.
For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
(cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
whether it's a replacement or not.
You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
on it, and you can Google that for replacements.
*******
The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81
*******
Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.
Paul
I guess I missed your post on checking the temp of the CPU.
https://postimg.cc/18mnvhhB
I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to remove
the fan.
I still have to buy the battery for the 780 and install it. I'll
let you know.
Robert
Your Hardware Monitor might look like this. Use the scroll bar.
The "snippingtool.exe" can take pictures. If you are not
running this with your Administrator account, that will hamper
what the readout can do. That's why yours does not have the
same rows this one has.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/6p85d9xG/hwmonitor-dell-optiplex-780.gif
*******
The two screws that hold the shroud over the CPU, also
undo the heatsink! The shroud and heatsink are one and the same.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/J0RdL456/Dell-Optiplex-780-Heatsink-Removal.jpg
After cleaning the AS5 off that, I put some dots of AS5 before
screwing the shroud back on. May have to wiggle the plastic part
a little bit, so the two spring-loaded shroud screws, go into
the screw holes.
Arctic Silver 5 (listed prices are getting silly now)
https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb1280/35-100-007-04.jpg
*******
To do the battery, you need to move the video card out of there.
Flip the "tool-less" holder on the outside of the case, so the
video card can rise up.
Get your fingers down near the heel guard, depress the heel
guard so the card can rise up, while rocking the card back to front
and ease it upward, all the while keeping the heel guard depressed
so it does not snag as the card comes up. You can grip the card by
the faceplate to establish the grounding (for ESD purposes while handling). (Power should be disconnected while doing this.)
Now that you have the video card out of the way, the CR2032 socket should
be visible.
----
/____\ <=== battery tucks in at the top
low point here ==> <=== low point here (could pry up with jewelers screwdriver)
\-- --/ <=== annoying two snaps won't allow cell to rise
With a little tension at the low point, "flick"
your finger nail, pushing the snap downwards.
It may take a few tries before the cell pops upward
at the "snaps" end. Really, one snap would have been
sufficient. Two snaps is "customer abuse".
So that's how you change the coin cell. Looks like CR2032.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Rh0Qd3RB/Dell-Optiplex-780-CR2032-cell.jpg
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 3/21/2025 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).
When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.
*******
The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
and one location on the connector is a key.
The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.
Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.
15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical >>>> The 37.5 one can move more air.
40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The
XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.
The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.
For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
(cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
whether it's a replacement or not.
You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
on it, and you can Google that for replacements.
*******
The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81
*******
Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards >>>> you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.
Paul
I guess I missed your post on checking the temp of the CPU.
https://postimg.cc/18mnvhhB
I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to remove
the fan.
I still have to buy the battery for the 780 and install it. I'll
let you know.
Robert
Your Hardware Monitor might look like this. Use the scroll bar.
The "snippingtool.exe" can take pictures. If you are not
running this with your Administrator account, that will hamper
what the readout can do. That's why yours does not have the
same rows this one has.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/6p85d9xG/hwmonitor-dell-optiplex-780.gif
*******
The two screws that hold the shroud over the CPU, also
undo the heatsink! The shroud and heatsink are one and the same.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/J0RdL456/Dell-Optiplex-780-Heatsink-Removal.jpg
After cleaning the AS5 off that, I put some dots of AS5 before
screwing the shroud back on. May have to wiggle the plastic part
a little bit, so the two spring-loaded shroud screws, go into
the screw holes.
Arctic Silver 5 (listed prices are getting silly now)
https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb1280/35-100-007-04.jpg
*******
To do the battery, you need to move the video card out of there.
Flip the "tool-less" holder on the outside of the case, so the
video card can rise up.
Get your fingers down near the heel guard, depress the heel
guard so the card can rise up, while rocking the card back to front
and ease it upward, all the while keeping the heel guard depressed
so it does not snag as the card comes up. You can grip the card by
the faceplate to establish the grounding (for ESD purposes while handling). >> (Power should be disconnected while doing this.)
Now that you have the video card out of the way, the CR2032 socket should
be visible.
----
/____\ <=== battery tucks in at the top
low point here ==> <=== low point here (could pry up with jewelers screwdriver)
\-- --/ <=== annoying two snaps won't allow cell to rise
With a little tension at the low point, "flick"
your finger nail, pushing the snap downwards.
It may take a few tries before the cell pops upward
at the "snaps" end. Really, one snap would have been
sufficient. Two snaps is "customer abuse".
So that's how you change the coin cell. Looks like CR2032.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Rh0Qd3RB/Dell-Optiplex-780-CR2032-cell.jpg
Paul
Understood; I bought the rear fan and high sink fan for the 8500 but am still looking for one for the 780. I found this but I don't even know its the right one.pla-2276391439863&abcId=9451617&merchantid=108350748&geoid=1014127&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgM2c99acjAMV3SBECB2HRzzAEAYYASABEgJ6JPD_BwE
https://notebookparts.com/products/dell-optiplex-330-360-740-760-780-120mm-fan-0rr527-rr527?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk4Ck1K-djAMVsRFECB3fZAiwEAQYCCABEgJgAfD_BwE
In re- reading one of your replies I'm now wondering whether we
should get a new video card/fan as well for both the 8500 and 780?
but I don't know the part number without removing the card.
I found one for the 8500 but it's only a heat sink, no fan
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334666143077?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=334666143077&targetid=2276391439863&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1014127&poi=&campaignid=21413503890&mkgroupid=165595389564&rlsatarget=
I found only one for the 780.3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cpoywNcFhyKtyBFUukrwkiGhE5i58FoB4Bm0oWVPZT4Py5VxXnCkMcQPE8u8aGf9Sw2IdK9KJETkClfKgSVJoG1HMA%2FXVcSi5kGc6BbJ9xYA4VW2G0JCOVwA%2FMYaogLLdZIPTIDjN3Fxn38rA8fNqhl5PT%2BBf%2BhmMRId%2FplQr%2FCB6vlhTs%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/126154401071?_skw=DELL+OPTIPLEX+780+Video+Card&itmmeta=01JPXVTB02SCX0ZQN1XA3KZR8G&hash=item1d5f63652f%3Ag%3A5lMAAOSwAAZlOWvb&itmprp=enc%
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
On Sat, 3/22/2025 6:05 AM, RobnCA wrote:pla-2276391439863&abcId=9451617&merchantid=108350748&geoid=1014127&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgM2c99acjAMV3SBECB2HRzzAEAYYASABEgJ6JPD_BwE
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 3/21/2025 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems >>>>>> since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).
When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.
*******
The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
and one location on the connector is a key.
The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.
Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.
15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical >>>>> The 37.5 one can move more air.
40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The
XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.
The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.
For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
(cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
whether it's a replacement or not.
You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
on it, and you can Google that for replacements.
*******
The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81
*******
Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section. >>>>> The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards >>>>> you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.
Paul
I guess I missed your post on checking the temp of the CPU.
https://postimg.cc/18mnvhhB
I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to remove
the fan.
I still have to buy the battery for the 780 and install it. I'll
let you know.
Robert
Your Hardware Monitor might look like this. Use the scroll bar.
The "snippingtool.exe" can take pictures. If you are not
running this with your Administrator account, that will hamper
what the readout can do. That's why yours does not have the
same rows this one has.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/6p85d9xG/hwmonitor-dell-optiplex-780.gif
*******
The two screws that hold the shroud over the CPU, also
undo the heatsink! The shroud and heatsink are one and the same.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/J0RdL456/Dell-Optiplex-780-Heatsink-Removal.jpg
After cleaning the AS5 off that, I put some dots of AS5 before
screwing the shroud back on. May have to wiggle the plastic part
a little bit, so the two spring-loaded shroud screws, go into
the screw holes.
Arctic Silver 5 (listed prices are getting silly now)
https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb1280/35-100-007-04.jpg >>>
*******
To do the battery, you need to move the video card out of there.
Flip the "tool-less" holder on the outside of the case, so the
video card can rise up.
Get your fingers down near the heel guard, depress the heel
guard so the card can rise up, while rocking the card back to front
and ease it upward, all the while keeping the heel guard depressed
so it does not snag as the card comes up. You can grip the card by
the faceplate to establish the grounding (for ESD purposes while handling). >>> (Power should be disconnected while doing this.)
Now that you have the video card out of the way, the CR2032 socket should >>> be visible.
----
/____\ <=== battery tucks in at the top
low point here ==> <=== low point here (could pry up with jewelers screwdriver)
\-- --/ <=== annoying two snaps won't allow cell to rise
With a little tension at the low point, "flick"
your finger nail, pushing the snap downwards.
It may take a few tries before the cell pops upward
at the "snaps" end. Really, one snap would have been
sufficient. Two snaps is "customer abuse".
So that's how you change the coin cell. Looks like CR2032.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Rh0Qd3RB/Dell-Optiplex-780-CR2032-cell.jpg >>>
Paul
Understood; I bought the rear fan and high sink fan for the 8500 but am still looking for one for the 780. I found this but I don't even know its the right one.
https://notebookparts.com/products/dell-optiplex-330-360-740-760-780-120mm-fan-0rr527-rr527?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk4Ck1K-djAMVsRFECB3fZAiwEAQYCCABEgJgAfD_BwE
In re- reading one of your replies I'm now wondering whether we
should get a new video card/fan as well for both the 8500 and 780?
but I don't know the part number without removing the card.
I found one for the 8500 but it's only a heat sink, no fan
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334666143077?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=334666143077&targetid=2276391439863&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1014127&poi=&campaignid=21413503890&mkgroupid=165595389564&rlsatarget=
3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cpoywNcFhyKtyBFUukrwkiGhE5i58FoB4Bm0oWVPZT4Py5VxXnCkMcQPE8u8aGf9Sw2IdK9KJETkClfKgSVJoG1HMA%2FXVcSi5kGc6BbJ9xYA4VW2G0JCOVwA%2FMYaogLLdZIPTIDjN3Fxn38rA8fNqhl5PT%2BBf%2BhmMRId%2FplQr%2FCB6vlhTs%
I found only one for the 780.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/126154401071?_skw=DELL+OPTIPLEX+780+Video+Card&itmmeta=01JPXVTB02SCX0ZQN1XA3KZR8G&hash=item1d5f63652f%3Ag%3A5lMAAOSwAAZlOWvb&itmprp=enc%
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
The Optiplex 780 CPU cooler might be this one. RR527 for a 780 MT. $15.
https://www.parts-people.com/index.php?action=item&id=22320&srsltid=AfmBOoogqZT6IM-O_Cfntta4S5fS6ovwyHcsVAynGdCYrnX9Q-6bX28q
Foxconn
DC Brushless Fan
Model:PV123812DSPF 01
DCI2V 0.90 A
150CFM
That's a pretty powerful fan, when flat out.
*******
With regard to video cards, it's probably easier to track down
the entire video card, rather than just the fan.
Arctic Cooling, used to make replacement/aftermarket coolers
for video cards, when the cards have standard footprints
(holes placed in the correct places). But they may be out of
business now, so no longer a source of good options like that.
That's a problem, when it amounts to your business activity
is "specialty items". With very low volumes, you can hardly
make payroll on an average week. It's not a surprise the
companies disappear.
Paul
On Sat, 3/22/2025 6:05 AM, RobnCA wrote:pla-2276391439863&abcId=9451617&merchantid=108350748&geoid=1014127&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgM2c99acjAMV3SBECB2HRzzAEAYYASABEgJ6JPD_BwE
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 3/21/2025 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems >>>>>> since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).
When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.
*******
The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
and one location on the connector is a key.
The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.
Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.
15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical >>>>> The 37.5 one can move more air.
40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The
XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.
The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.
For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
(cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
whether it's a replacement or not.
You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
on it, and you can Google that for replacements.
*******
The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81
*******
Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section. >>>>> The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards >>>>> you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.
Paul
I guess I missed your post on checking the temp of the CPU.
https://postimg.cc/18mnvhhB
I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to remove
the fan.
I still have to buy the battery for the 780 and install it. I'll
let you know.
Robert
Your Hardware Monitor might look like this. Use the scroll bar.
The "snippingtool.exe" can take pictures. If you are not
running this with your Administrator account, that will hamper
what the readout can do. That's why yours does not have the
same rows this one has.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/6p85d9xG/hwmonitor-dell-optiplex-780.gif
*******
The two screws that hold the shroud over the CPU, also
undo the heatsink! The shroud and heatsink are one and the same.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/J0RdL456/Dell-Optiplex-780-Heatsink-Removal.jpg
After cleaning the AS5 off that, I put some dots of AS5 before
screwing the shroud back on. May have to wiggle the plastic part
a little bit, so the two spring-loaded shroud screws, go into
the screw holes.
Arctic Silver 5 (listed prices are getting silly now)
https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb1280/35-100-007-04.jpg >>>
*******
To do the battery, you need to move the video card out of there.
Flip the "tool-less" holder on the outside of the case, so the
video card can rise up.
Get your fingers down near the heel guard, depress the heel
guard so the card can rise up, while rocking the card back to front
and ease it upward, all the while keeping the heel guard depressed
so it does not snag as the card comes up. You can grip the card by
the faceplate to establish the grounding (for ESD purposes while handling). >>> (Power should be disconnected while doing this.)
Now that you have the video card out of the way, the CR2032 socket should >>> be visible.
----
/____\ <=== battery tucks in at the top
low point here ==> <=== low point here (could pry up with jewelers screwdriver)
\-- --/ <=== annoying two snaps won't allow cell to rise
With a little tension at the low point, "flick"
your finger nail, pushing the snap downwards.
It may take a few tries before the cell pops upward
at the "snaps" end. Really, one snap would have been
sufficient. Two snaps is "customer abuse".
So that's how you change the coin cell. Looks like CR2032.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Rh0Qd3RB/Dell-Optiplex-780-CR2032-cell.jpg >>>
Paul
Understood; I bought the rear fan and high sink fan for the 8500 but am still looking for one for the 780. I found this but I don't even know its the right one.
https://notebookparts.com/products/dell-optiplex-330-360-740-760-780-120mm-fan-0rr527-rr527?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk4Ck1K-djAMVsRFECB3fZAiwEAQYCCABEgJgAfD_BwE
In re- reading one of your replies I'm now wondering whether we
should get a new video card/fan as well for both the 8500 and 780?
but I don't know the part number without removing the card.
I found one for the 8500 but it's only a heat sink, no fan
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334666143077?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=334666143077&targetid=2276391439863&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1014127&poi=&campaignid=21413503890&mkgroupid=165595389564&rlsatarget=
3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cpoywNcFhyKtyBFUukrwkiGhE5i58FoB4Bm0oWVPZT4Py5VxXnCkMcQPE8u8aGf9Sw2IdK9KJETkClfKgSVJoG1HMA%2FXVcSi5kGc6BbJ9xYA4VW2G0JCOVwA%2FMYaogLLdZIPTIDjN3Fxn38rA8fNqhl5PT%2BBf%2BhmMRId%2FplQr%2FCB6vlhTs%
I found only one for the 780.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/126154401071?_skw=DELL+OPTIPLEX+780+Video+Card&itmmeta=01JPXVTB02SCX0ZQN1XA3KZR8G&hash=item1d5f63652f%3Ag%3A5lMAAOSwAAZlOWvb&itmprp=enc%
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
The Optiplex 780 CPU cooler might be this one. RR527 for a 780 MT. $15.
https://www.parts-people.com/index.php?action=item&id=22320&srsltid=AfmBOoogqZT6IM-O_Cfntta4S5fS6ovwyHcsVAynGdCYrnX9Q-6bX28q
Foxconn
DC Brushless Fan
Model:PV123812DSPF 01
DCI2V 0.90 A
150CFM
That's a pretty powerful fan, when flat out.
*******
With regard to video cards, it's probably easier to track down
the entire video card, rather than just the fan.
Arctic Cooling, used to make replacement/aftermarket coolers
for video cards, when the cards have standard footprints
(holes placed in the correct places). But they may be out of
business now, so no longer a source of good options like that.
That's a problem, when it amounts to your business activity
is "specialty items". With very low volumes, you can hardly
make payroll on an average week. It's not a surprise the
companies disappear.
Paul
On Sat, 3/22/2025 6:05 AM, RobnCA wrote:pla-2276391439863&abcId=9451617&merchantid=108350748&geoid=1014127&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgM2c99acjAMV3SBECB2HRzzAEAYYASABEgJ6JPD_BwE
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 3/21/2025 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems >>>>>> since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).
When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.
*******
The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
and one location on the connector is a key.
The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.
Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.
15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical >>>>> The 37.5 one can move more air.
40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The
XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.
The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.
For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
(cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
whether it's a replacement or not.
You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
on it, and you can Google that for replacements.
*******
The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81
*******
Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section. >>>>> The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards >>>>> you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.
Paul
I guess I missed your post on checking the temp of the CPU.
https://postimg.cc/18mnvhhB
I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to remove
the fan.
I still have to buy the battery for the 780 and install it. I'll
let you know.
Robert
Your Hardware Monitor might look like this. Use the scroll bar.
The "snippingtool.exe" can take pictures. If you are not
running this with your Administrator account, that will hamper
what the readout can do. That's why yours does not have the
same rows this one has.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/6p85d9xG/hwmonitor-dell-optiplex-780.gif
*******
The two screws that hold the shroud over the CPU, also
undo the heatsink! The shroud and heatsink are one and the same.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/J0RdL456/Dell-Optiplex-780-Heatsink-Removal.jpg
After cleaning the AS5 off that, I put some dots of AS5 before
screwing the shroud back on. May have to wiggle the plastic part
a little bit, so the two spring-loaded shroud screws, go into
the screw holes.
Arctic Silver 5 (listed prices are getting silly now)
https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb1280/35-100-007-04.jpg >>>
*******
To do the battery, you need to move the video card out of there.
Flip the "tool-less" holder on the outside of the case, so the
video card can rise up.
Get your fingers down near the heel guard, depress the heel
guard so the card can rise up, while rocking the card back to front
and ease it upward, all the while keeping the heel guard depressed
so it does not snag as the card comes up. You can grip the card by
the faceplate to establish the grounding (for ESD purposes while handling). >>> (Power should be disconnected while doing this.)
Now that you have the video card out of the way, the CR2032 socket should >>> be visible.
----
/____\ <=== battery tucks in at the top
low point here ==> <=== low point here (could pry up with jewelers screwdriver)
\-- --/ <=== annoying two snaps won't allow cell to rise
With a little tension at the low point, "flick"
your finger nail, pushing the snap downwards.
It may take a few tries before the cell pops upward
at the "snaps" end. Really, one snap would have been
sufficient. Two snaps is "customer abuse".
So that's how you change the coin cell. Looks like CR2032.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/Rh0Qd3RB/Dell-Optiplex-780-CR2032-cell.jpg >>>
Paul
Understood; I bought the rear fan and high sink fan for the 8500 but am still looking for one for the 780. I found this but I don't even know its the right one.
https://notebookparts.com/products/dell-optiplex-330-360-740-760-780-120mm-fan-0rr527-rr527?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk4Ck1K-djAMVsRFECB3fZAiwEAQYCCABEgJgAfD_BwE
In re- reading one of your replies I'm now wondering whether we
should get a new video card/fan as well for both the 8500 and 780?
but I don't know the part number without removing the card.
I found one for the 8500 but it's only a heat sink, no fan
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334666143077?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=334666143077&targetid=2276391439863&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1014127&poi=&campaignid=21413503890&mkgroupid=165595389564&rlsatarget=
3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cpoywNcFhyKtyBFUukrwkiGhE5i58FoB4Bm0oWVPZT4Py5VxXnCkMcQPE8u8aGf9Sw2IdK9KJETkClfKgSVJoG1HMA%2FXVcSi5kGc6BbJ9xYA4VW2G0JCOVwA%2FMYaogLLdZIPTIDjN3Fxn38rA8fNqhl5PT%2BBf%2BhmMRId%2FplQr%2FCB6vlhTs%
I found only one for the 780.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/126154401071?_skw=DELL+OPTIPLEX+780+Video+Card&itmmeta=01JPXVTB02SCX0ZQN1XA3KZR8G&hash=item1d5f63652f%3Ag%3A5lMAAOSwAAZlOWvb&itmprp=enc%
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
The Optiplex 780 CPU cooler might be this one. RR527 for a 780 MT. $15.
https://www.parts-people.com/index.php?action=item&id=22320&srsltid=AfmBOoogqZT6IM-O_Cfntta4S5fS6ovwyHcsVAynGdCYrnX9Q-6bX28q
Foxconn
DC Brushless Fan
Model:PV123812DSPF 01
DCI2V 0.90 A
150CFM
That's a pretty powerful fan, when flat out.
*******
With regard to video cards, it's probably easier to track down
the entire video card, rather than just the fan.
Arctic Cooling, used to make replacement/aftermarket coolers
for video cards, when the cards have standard footprints
(holes placed in the correct places). But they may be out of
business now, so no longer a source of good options like that.
That's a problem, when it amounts to your business activity
is "specialty items". With very low volumes, you can hardly
make payroll on an average week. It's not a surprise the
companies disappear.
Paul
I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to access
and remove the fan. I found instructions on how to remove the fan on page 58 but it doesn't show the cover piece except at the beginning inset.
https://dl.dell.com/manuals/all-products/esuprt_desktop/esuprt_optiplex_desktop/optiplex-780_service%20manual2_en-us.pdf
I searched found some AS5 thermal paste.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/396222721010
and I can use simple green or isopropyl alcohol to clean it.
I know what you mean about getting things off/on....
Robert
Thanks for finding a fan for the 780 for me. I appreciate it.
I agree, I meant getting new video cards with fans. for both
computers but they are damn hard to find.
I did order some SP5 thermal paste:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/396222721010
I put the battery in the 780 without taking the video card
out using tweezers but the year/date is all messed up. Oddly,
the 8500 came up with the Admin Account when I booted.
I checked the 780 BIOS before replacing the battery.
https://postimg.cc/q68ccnhg
However after I changed the battery, during the startup I received
this message on the 780 saying the battery is low. It looks like I need
to get a new CR2032. So I won't change the date/time yet.
https://postimg.cc/CzsHzGpQ
I hit F1 to continue but I should of run F2 next time to go into
the BIOS and change the year/date.
While I had the 780 open, I checked out the fan and it appears its
separate from the black heatsink cover, not one piece but it's butted
up next to it. It seems it may be held there with slotted hinges?
https://postimg.cc/GHgPFc9F
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
I bought a new CR2032 battery and installed it in the 780 and changed
the year/date and checked that the boot sequence hadn't changed. So all
is good. I checked the 780 fan again and it seems like I need to remove
the cover and heat sink to access the fan.
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 3/20/2025 3:24 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.
https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD
https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy
https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1
Robert
I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)
That should help a bit.
Paul
Thanks, I appreciate it,..
Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
5 pins anymore?
Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?
I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.
Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
since that message.
Thanks,
Robert
Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).
When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.
*******
The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
and one location on the connector is a key.
The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.
Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.
15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical >>>> The 37.5 one can move more air.
40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The
XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.
The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.
For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
(cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
whether it's a replacement or not.
You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
on it, and you can Google that for replacements.
*******
The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81
*******
Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards >>>> you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.
Paul
I did some searches for the 8500 rear fan and
I found this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/113091985003
I also did searches for the heat sink fan
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186382890448
What do you think?
Robert
As long as they match the Dell part number, they should be fine.
The Dell part number on the fans at least, should be on the
hub sticker.
I don't know how you get the five pin (four wires plus keying pin)
off the Dell Optiplex 780. There's a tab on the side
of it, but it is not clear what you do with the tab,
to make the connector release.
That's one of the problems with messing around with
this stuff. The undocumented proprietary stuff (like
putting the wires in the wrong order), that's the kind
of stuff I don't enjoy.
And before you take the Intel heatsink off your processor,
it would help to at least have a tube of AS5 or similar.
And maybe some "cleaner/purifier", anything that makes
cleanup of the heatsink surface easier. Ordinary thermal paste
cleans off easily, compared to the phase change stuff that
has to be scraped off. The phase change becomes "plastic"
and "flows" when it is heated up.
At my computer store, there is an ashtray next to the cash,
and it has the small-size tubes of AS5 in it.
My first tube of thermal paste (AS3?), lasted around 15 years :-)
I guess I'm just not adventurous enough. I now have the
big tube of AS5.
Some of my heatsinks here, are more of a challenge than the Dell.
For those, you get both hands underneath them, and feel
the screw and mount point with a finger, in an attempt
to line them up. You muscles will be aching after ten
minutes of the damn screw thread not picking up, after
repeated attempts to start it. That's the fun of
messing with heatsinks. Or when I re-greased a video card,
having the thing slide around while I'm trying to get the
screws into it. This stuff is loads of fun, no matter
how many times you practice assembly with the heatsink
dry (no paste on it, while you practice).
Paul
I checked the CPU temp on the 8500:
https://postimg.cc/zHgjJLJq
https://postimg.cc/CBZCNZnb
Robert
On Sun, 3/23/2025 3:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I bought a new CR2032 battery and installed it in the 780 and changed
the year/date and checked that the boot sequence hadn't changed. So all
is good. I checked the 780 fan again and it seems like I need to remove
the cover and heat sink to access the fan.
Robert
In Windows 10, if you go
Start : Run : "control"
the control.exe executable provides the old "Control Panels".
You can pin that to the Task Bar if you like, for next time.
In the Control Panels, is the "Date and Time" item. click that and run it.
The third tab over, is "Internet Time".
There is a "Change Settings" button. Use that.
The tick box for "Synchronize with an Internet time server" should be ticked. The server address can be set to "time.windows.com". There is an "Update Now" button. This will correct the time you have entered, to around 1 second accuracy.
The time must be set accurately, for things like Windows Update
to work properly.
Paul
On Sun, 3/23/2025 3:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I bought a new CR2032 battery and installed it in the 780 and changed
the year/date and checked that the boot sequence hadn't changed. So all
is good. I checked the 780 fan again and it seems like I need to remove
the cover and heat sink to access the fan.
Robert
In Windows 10, if you go
Start : Run : "control"
the control.exe executable provides the old "Control Panels".
You can pin that to the Task Bar if you like, for next time.
In the Control Panels, is the "Date and Time" item. click that and run it.
The third tab over, is "Internet Time".
There is a "Change Settings" button. Use that.
The tick box for "Synchronize with an Internet time server" should be ticked. The server address can be set to "time.windows.com". There is an "Update Now" button. This will correct the time you have entered, to around 1 second accuracy.
The time must be set accurately, for things like Windows Update
to work properly.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 3/23/2025 3:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I bought a new CR2032 battery and installed it in the 780 and changed
the year/date and checked that the boot sequence hadn't changed. So all
is good. I checked the 780 fan again and it seems like I need to remove
the cover and heat sink to access the fan.
Robert
In Windows 10, if you go
Start : Run : "control"
the control.exe executable provides the old "Control Panels".
You can pin that to the Task Bar if you like, for next time.
In the Control Panels, is the "Date and Time" item. click that and run it. >>
The third tab over, is "Internet Time".
There is a "Change Settings" button. Use that.
The tick box for "Synchronize with an Internet time server" should be ticked.
The server address can be set to "time.windows.com". There is an "Update Now"
button. This will correct the time you have entered, to around 1 second
accuracy.
The time must be set accurately, for things like Windows Update
to work properly.
Paul
I noticed my malwarebytes score had dropped I went into settings but
all the settings are for premium. Is there anything I can do to improve it short of paying?
https://postimg.cc/BtPYMmRP
https://postimg.cc/B8vNDpx6
https://postimg.cc/14KHWbJt
Thanks,
Robert
On Mon, 3/24/2025 7:07 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 3/23/2025 3:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I bought a new CR2032 battery and installed it in the 780 and changed
the year/date and checked that the boot sequence hadn't changed. So all >>>> is good. I checked the 780 fan again and it seems like I need to remove >>>> the cover and heat sink to access the fan.
Robert
In Windows 10, if you go
Start : Run : "control"
the control.exe executable provides the old "Control Panels".
You can pin that to the Task Bar if you like, for next time.
In the Control Panels, is the "Date and Time" item. click that and run it. >>>
The third tab over, is "Internet Time".
There is a "Change Settings" button. Use that.
The tick box for "Synchronize with an Internet time server" should be ticked.
The server address can be set to "time.windows.com". There is an "Update Now"
button. This will correct the time you have entered, to around 1 second
accuracy.
The time must be set accurately, for things like Windows Update
to work properly.
Paul
I noticed my malwarebytes score had dropped I went into settings but
all the settings are for premium. Is there anything I can do to improve it short of paying?
https://postimg.cc/BtPYMmRP
https://postimg.cc/B8vNDpx6
https://postimg.cc/14KHWbJt
Thanks,
Robert
In the first picture, what does that score mean ?
I see the background is the Windows 7 background image.
Windows 7 may or may not have a real time protection
running on it at the moment.
The free version of Malwarebytes, is an on-demand scanner, it
is not a real-time scanner.
How would the program be measuring your machine ? What is the
measurement process ? (Looking at the "items" to the left, I don't
see how that yields a 72% score.)
*******
Windows 10 has Windows Defender, which will work until at least October 2025. That's about it for machines that don't have sufficient materials for
Windows 11.
I tested a Windows 11 Upgrade on the 780, and it refuses because the
780 does not have the Population Count (POPCNT) instruction. So that won't work.
That would give another way to get Windows Defender for a period of time.
Windows 11 might install on the XPS 8500, but that's a pretty old processor (no MBEC support), so it might be a bit slow.
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/65523/intel-core-i73770k-processor-8m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz/specifications.html
This machine is about the same vintage as the XPS 8500,
and it has a GPT disk layout. That made putting windows 11 on
here a bit easier. This machine has no TPM and no MBEC.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/d07kBs9T/W11-Home-on-4930-K-X79.gif
*******
If you pay for Malwarebytes, you won't be using all the features,
and it would be mainly for real-time protection.
You would have to find some information on how long Malwarebytes
would protect Windows 7, in its realtime protection mode.
https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360039021313-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4-support-for-Windows-7
"Malwarebytes for Windows v4 -- support for Windows 7
Malwarebytes for Windows version 4 is committed to continue support for Windows 7
for as long as Microsoft allows us to. This stand means that we'll continue
offering our core anti-malware protection to the best of our ability, given
technical limitations. For more information surrounding these limitations,
please refer to the following Malwarebytes Frequently Asked Questions.
"
Paul
On Mon, 3/24/2025 7:07 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 3/23/2025 3:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I bought a new CR2032 battery and installed it in the 780 and changed
the year/date and checked that the boot sequence hadn't changed. So all >>>> is good. I checked the 780 fan again and it seems like I need to remove >>>> the cover and heat sink to access the fan.
Robert
In Windows 10, if you go
Start : Run : "control"
the control.exe executable provides the old "Control Panels".
You can pin that to the Task Bar if you like, for next time.
In the Control Panels, is the "Date and Time" item. click that and run it. >>>
The third tab over, is "Internet Time".
There is a "Change Settings" button. Use that.
The tick box for "Synchronize with an Internet time server" should be ticked.
The server address can be set to "time.windows.com". There is an "Update Now"
button. This will correct the time you have entered, to around 1 second
accuracy.
The time must be set accurately, for things like Windows Update
to work properly.
Paul
I noticed my malwarebytes score had dropped I went into settings but
all the settings are for premium. Is there anything I can do to improve it short of paying?
https://postimg.cc/BtPYMmRP
https://postimg.cc/B8vNDpx6
https://postimg.cc/14KHWbJt
Thanks,
Robert
In the first picture, what does that score mean ?
I see the background is the Windows 7 background image.
Windows 7 may or may not have a real time protection
running on it at the moment.
The free version of Malwarebytes, is an on-demand scanner, it
is not a real-time scanner.
How would the program be measuring your machine ? What is the
measurement process ? (Looking at the "items" to the left, I don't
see how that yields a 72% score.)
*******
Windows 10 has Windows Defender, which will work until at least October 2025. That's about it for machines that don't have sufficient materials for
Windows 11.
I tested a Windows 11 Upgrade on the 780, and it refuses because the
780 does not have the Population Count (POPCNT) instruction. So that won't work.
That would give another way to get Windows Defender for a period of time.
Windows 11 might install on the XPS 8500, but that's a pretty old processor (no MBEC support), so it might be a bit slow.
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/65523/intel-core-i73770k-processor-8m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz/specifications.html
This machine is about the same vintage as the XPS 8500,
and it has a GPT disk layout. That made putting windows 11 on
here a bit easier. This machine has no TPM and no MBEC.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/d07kBs9T/W11-Home-on-4930-K-X79.gif
*******
If you pay for Malwarebytes, you won't be using all the features,
and it would be mainly for real-time protection.
You would have to find some information on how long Malwarebytes
would protect Windows 7, in its realtime protection mode.
https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360039021313-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4-support-for-Windows-7
"Malwarebytes for Windows v4 -- support for Windows 7
Malwarebytes for Windows version 4 is committed to continue support for Windows 7
for as long as Microsoft allows us to. This stand means that we'll continue
offering our core anti-malware protection to the best of our ability, given
technical limitations. For more information surrounding these limitations,
please refer to the following Malwarebytes Frequently Asked Questions.
"
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 3/24/2025 7:07 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 3/23/2025 3:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I bought a new CR2032 battery and installed it in the 780 and changed >>>>> the year/date and checked that the boot sequence hadn't changed. So all >>>>> is good. I checked the 780 fan again and it seems like I need to remove >>>>> the cover and heat sink to access the fan.
Robert
In Windows 10, if you go
Start : Run : "control"
the control.exe executable provides the old "Control Panels".
You can pin that to the Task Bar if you like, for next time.
In the Control Panels, is the "Date and Time" item. click that and run it. >>>>
The third tab over, is "Internet Time".
There is a "Change Settings" button. Use that.
The tick box for "Synchronize with an Internet time server" should be ticked.
The server address can be set to "time.windows.com". There is an "Update Now"
button. This will correct the time you have entered, to around 1 second >>>> accuracy.
The time must be set accurately, for things like Windows Update
to work properly.
Paul
I noticed my malwarebytes score had dropped I went into settings but
all the settings are for premium. Is there anything I can do to improve it short of paying?
https://postimg.cc/BtPYMmRP
https://postimg.cc/B8vNDpx6
https://postimg.cc/14KHWbJt
Thanks,
Robert
In the first picture, what does that score mean ?
I see the background is the Windows 7 background image.
Windows 7 may or may not have a real time protection
running on it at the moment.
The free version of Malwarebytes, is an on-demand scanner, it
is not a real-time scanner.
How would the program be measuring your machine ? What is the
measurement process ? (Looking at the "items" to the left, I don't
see how that yields a 72% score.)
*******
Windows 10 has Windows Defender, which will work until at least October 2025.
That's about it for machines that don't have sufficient materials for
Windows 11.
I tested a Windows 11 Upgrade on the 780, and it refuses because the
780 does not have the Population Count (POPCNT) instruction. So that won't work.
That would give another way to get Windows Defender for a period of time.
Windows 11 might install on the XPS 8500, but that's a pretty old processor >> (no MBEC support), so it might be a bit slow.
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/65523/intel-core-i73770k-processor-8m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz/specifications.html
This machine is about the same vintage as the XPS 8500,
and it has a GPT disk layout. That made putting windows 11 on
here a bit easier. This machine has no TPM and no MBEC.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/d07kBs9T/W11-Home-on-4930-K-X79.gif
*******
If you pay for Malwarebytes, you won't be using all the features,
and it would be mainly for real-time protection.
You would have to find some information on how long Malwarebytes
would protect Windows 7, in its realtime protection mode.
https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360039021313-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4-support-for-Windows-7
"Malwarebytes for Windows v4 -- support for Windows 7
Malwarebytes for Windows version 4 is committed to continue support for Windows 7
for as long as Microsoft allows us to. This stand means that we'll continue
offering our core anti-malware protection to the best of our ability, given
technical limitations. For more information surrounding these limitations,
please refer to the following Malwarebytes Frequently Asked Questions.
"
Paul
Exactly,.. what does that score mean? It use to be 90%. on the 780 and the 8500 was 82
but all of a sudden they dropped to 72. Do you think this is a marketing ploy ?
780 present
https://postimg.cc/bG7j2LNb
780 before
https://postimg.cc/vg5w79cK
8500 present
https://postimg.cc/4H5Cqgvb
8500 before
https://postimg.cc/vDLcbx3X
I thought I had Windows Defender on the computer but I checked the Control Panel
for installed programs and it's not there. I also checked my downloads folder and I don't have it. Could you please give me a link for Windows Defender?
Hmmmm I'm trying to understand. You mean the only real time protection I have for the computers is Windows Defender and your suggestion I change the OS from Win 7 to Win 11?
Is there no other way for real time protection in Win 7 Pro? So I guess my only option is to buy malwarewarebytes but why the change in scores?
I went into the Action Center to check my Security:
https://postimg.cc/BPqZXNMp
Thanks,
Robert
I found this download for Windows Defender,..
should I install it?
https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender
Thanks,
Robert
On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I found this download for Windows Defender,..
should I install it?
https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender
Thanks,
Robert
It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
what happened.
The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.
System Requirements
Available on: PC
OS: Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher
It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7.
You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on your machine.
*******
I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
and that it was "KB2902907".
It is not in: https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com
And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0
https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.
That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe
Name: MSEInstall.exe
Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A
That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.
That should work.
I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke. Here goes.
OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".
Paul
On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I found this download for Windows Defender,..
should I install it?
https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender
Thanks,
Robert
It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
what happened.
The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.
System Requirements
Available on: PC
OS: Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher
It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7.
You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on your machine.
*******
I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
and that it was "KB2902907".
It is not in: https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com
And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0
https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.
That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe
Name: MSEInstall.exe
Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A
That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.
That should work.
I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke. Here goes.
OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I found this download for Windows Defender,..
should I install it?
https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender
Thanks,
Robert
It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
what happened.
The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.
System Requirements
Available on: PC
OS: Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher
It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7.
You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on
your machine.
*******
I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
and that it was "KB2902907".
It is not in: https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com
And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0
https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.
That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe
Name: MSEInstall.exe
Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A
That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.
That should work.
I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke. >> Here goes.
OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".
Paul
The update catalog link didn't show anything, just the page but no updates. I guess you have to search for them? The second link took me to a way back page,.. is that correct?Superantispyware. Can I and should I retain all of these after I remove them for installation?
I ran the MSEInstall.exe however during the process it said I need to remove all my A/V programs before installing. It also said too many A/V may result in a conflict. So in addition to Windows firewall, I have Avast, Spywareblaster, and
https://postimg.cc/w1hSVZcq
I'll do this first on the 780 and then the 8500,.just to play it safe.
Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I found this download for Windows Defender,..
should I install it?
https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender
Thanks,
Robert
It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
what happened.
The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.
System Requirements
Available on: PC
OS: Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher
It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7.
You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on
your machine.
*******
I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
and that it was "KB2902907".
It is not in: https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com
And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0
https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.
That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe
Name: MSEInstall.exe
Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A
That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.
That should work.
I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke. >> Here goes.
OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".
Paul
p.s. also malwarebytes of course.
Robert
On Wed, 3/26/2025 6:37 AM, RobnCA wrote:Superantispyware. Can I and should I retain all of these after I remove them for installation?
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I found this download for Windows Defender,..
should I install it?
https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender
Thanks,
Robert
It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
what happened.
The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.
System Requirements
Available on: PC
OS: Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher
It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7.
You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on >>> your machine.
*******
I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
and that it was "KB2902907".
It is not in: https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com
And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0
https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.
That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe
Name: MSEInstall.exe
Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A
That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.
That should work.
I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke.
Here goes.
OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".
Paul
The update catalog link didn't show anything, just the page but no updates. I guess you have to search for them? The second link took me to a way back page,.. is that correct?
I ran the MSEInstall.exe however during the process it said I need to remove all my A/V programs before installing. It also said too many A/V may result in a conflict. So in addition to Windows firewall, I have Avast, Spywareblaster, and
https://postimg.cc/w1hSVZcq
I'll do this first on the 780 and then the 8500,.just to play it safe.
Thanks,
Robert
From a management tasks perspective, you are only juggling the
RealTime AV portion of MalwareBytes Paid, versus the
RealTime AV portion of MSE (Microsoft Security Essentials).
The main concern on Windows 7, is when *any* of your potential
realTime AV, stop being updated and you have no protection.
This is why you are watching watching watching who is in
control of your RealTime AV.
Avast also contains a RealTime AV. Has it stopped working ?
It could be in the same class as the two in the first paragraph.
Perhaps the AVast has stopped working and that's why it is 72% ?
I can't keep track of all these gubbins :-) Too many gubbins.
The "Spywareblaster, and Superantispyware" are in a separate class,
and they have different scan activity (On Demand, I would guess).
Paul
Paul wrote:Superantispyware. Can I and should I retain all of these after I remove them for installation?
On Wed, 3/26/2025 6:37 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I found this download for Windows Defender,..
should I install it?
https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender
Thanks,
Robert
It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
what happened.
The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.
System Requirements
Available on: PC
OS: Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher
It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7. >>>> You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on >>>> your machine.
*******
I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
and that it was "KB2902907".
It is not in: https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com
And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0
https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.
That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe
Name: MSEInstall.exe
Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A
That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.
That should work.
I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke.
Here goes.
OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".
Paul
The update catalog link didn't show anything, just the page but no updates. I guess you have to search for them? The second link took me to a way back page,.. is that correct?
I ran the MSEInstall.exe however during the process it said I need to remove all my A/V programs before installing. It also said too many A/V may result in a conflict. So in addition to Windows firewall, I have Avast, Spywareblaster, and
https://postimg.cc/w1hSVZcq
I'll do this first on the 780 and then the 8500,.just to play it safe.
Thanks,
Robert
From a management tasks perspective, you are only juggling the
RealTime AV portion of MalwareBytes Paid, versus the
RealTime AV portion of MSE (Microsoft Security Essentials).
The main concern on Windows 7, is when *any* of your potential
realTime AV, stop being updated and you have no protection.
This is why you are watching watching watching who is in
control of your RealTime AV.
Avast also contains a RealTime AV. Has it stopped working ?
It could be in the same class as the two in the first paragraph.
Perhaps the AVast has stopped working and that's why it is 72% ?
I can't keep track of all these gubbins :-) Too many gubbins.
The "Spywareblaster, and Superantispyware" are in a separate class,
and they have different scan activity (On Demand, I would guess).
Paul
I'd rather not pay for malwarebytes as I live on a fixed income. I'd
rather go with MSE and use the free malewarebytes.
Avast seems to continue to function normally.
I'll remove all the A/V programs on the 780 and run MSE.exe then install them again. I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks,
Robert
On Wed, 3/26/2025 10:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I found this download for Windows Defender,..
should I install it?
https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender
Thanks,
Robert
It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
what happened.
The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.
System Requirements
Available on: PC
OS: Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher
It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7.
You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on >>> your machine.
*******
I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
and that it was "KB2902907".
It is not in: https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com
And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0
https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.
That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe
Name: MSEInstall.exe
Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A
That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.
That should work.
I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke.
Here goes.
OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".
Paul
p.s. also malwarebytes of course.
Robert
If you install this one:
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe
Name: MSEInstall.exe
Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A
that gives you a RealTime AV protection. There should be a new tray item
in the overflow triangle on the task bar.
If you *pay* for MalwareBytes, you would change the status of MSE to OFF. There should be an icon in the tray area in the lower right (taskbar level). Paying for Malwarebytes gives you a RealTime AV.
It's generally not advised to run two RealTime AV at the same time. For one thing, it is confusing for the operator, as notifications could be flying onto the screen for both of them, quarantined materials could end up
in two different folders and so on.
And in principle, if the MalwareBytes "percentage" indicator is any good
at all, it should read "100%", if the AV Definition file for MSEInstall
is present and up-to-date and the thing is running. This is normally coordinated by a registry entry, where the active RealTime scanner writes into the Registry entry that it is the boss. MalwareBytes Free should be
able to "see" things like the MsMpEng.exe executable running in Task Manager all the time.
The MSE does this:
1) Every time you open a file in some tool, it scans the executable
program.
2) At boot up, MsMpEng scans the System32 folder and the Program Files.
You will notice more disk activity at startup. It would be the same
as Windows 10 and its copy of MsMpEng.
3) While the system is running, it should be doing a scan in the
background, of some files on C: . A notification will pop up every
couple days "MSE: I have scanned your files 3 times and no threats found".
From a performance point of view, if you run HashDeep (a checksum utility that generates a checksum for every file on the computer), it takes
eight times longer to run when MSE is operational. And that's because
MSE scans every file before HashDeep can work out the checksum. In other words,
when you have this kind of protection, there is a performance penalty.
It's not too noticeable if you open a single MSWord document and start typing, or if you are web browsing. But anything which is "data-full"
can be slowed. It would be the same if MalwareBytes Paid was running the show.
Each RealTime AV has a different performance level, and needs to do
more (or less) scanning. Some take 50 milliseconds to process a file.
Others take a whole second.
Paul
On Wed, 3/26/2025 10:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I found this download for Windows Defender,..
should I install it?
https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender
Thanks,
Robert
It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
what happened.
The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.
System Requirements
Available on: PC
OS: Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher
It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7.
You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on >>> your machine.
*******
I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
and that it was "KB2902907".
It is not in: https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com
And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0
https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.
That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe
Name: MSEInstall.exe
Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A
That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.
That should work.
I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke.
Here goes.
OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".
Paul
p.s. also malwarebytes of course.
Robert
If you install this one:
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe
Name: MSEInstall.exe
Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A
that gives you a RealTime AV protection. There should be a new tray item
in the overflow triangle on the task bar.
If you *pay* for MalwareBytes, you would change the status of MSE to OFF. There should be an icon in the tray area in the lower right (taskbar level). Paying for Malwarebytes gives you a RealTime AV.
It's generally not advised to run two RealTime AV at the same time. For one thing, it is confusing for the operator, as notifications could be flying onto the screen for both of them, quarantined materials could end up
in two different folders and so on.
And in principle, if the MalwareBytes "percentage" indicator is any good
at all, it should read "100%", if the AV Definition file for MSEInstall
is present and up-to-date and the thing is running. This is normally coordinated by a registry entry, where the active RealTime scanner writes into the Registry entry that it is the boss. MalwareBytes Free should be
able to "see" things like the MsMpEng.exe executable running in Task Manager all the time.
The MSE does this:
1) Every time you open a file in some tool, it scans the executable
program.
2) At boot up, MsMpEng scans the System32 folder and the Program Files.
You will notice more disk activity at startup. It would be the same
as Windows 10 and its copy of MsMpEng.
3) While the system is running, it should be doing a scan in the
background, of some files on C: . A notification will pop up every
couple days "MSE: I have scanned your files 3 times and no threats found".
From a performance point of view, if you run HashDeep (a checksum utility that generates a checksum for every file on the computer), it takes
eight times longer to run when MSE is operational. And that's because
MSE scans every file before HashDeep can work out the checksum. In other words,
when you have this kind of protection, there is a performance penalty.
It's not too noticeable if you open a single MSWord document and start typing, or if you are web browsing. But anything which is "data-full"
can be slowed. It would be the same if MalwareBytes Paid was running the show.
Each RealTime AV has a different performance level, and needs to do
more (or less) scanning. Some take 50 milliseconds to process a file.
Others take a whole second.
Paul
Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.
https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw
I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?
Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 3/26/2025 10:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I found this download for Windows Defender,..
should I install it?
https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender
Thanks,
Robert
It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
what happened.
The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.
System Requirements
Available on: PC
OS: Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher
It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7. >>>> You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on >>>> your machine.
*******
I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
and that it was "KB2902907".
It is not in: https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com
And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0
https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201
Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.
That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe
Name: MSEInstall.exe
Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A
That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.
That should work.
I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke.
Here goes.
OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".
Paul
p.s. also malwarebytes of course.
Robert
If you install this one:
https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe
Name: MSEInstall.exe
Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A
that gives you a RealTime AV protection. There should be a new tray item
in the overflow triangle on the task bar.
If you *pay* for MalwareBytes, you would change the status of MSE to OFF.
There should be an icon in the tray area in the lower right (taskbar level). >> Paying for Malwarebytes gives you a RealTime AV.
It's generally not advised to run two RealTime AV at the same time. For one >> thing, it is confusing for the operator, as notifications could be flying
onto the screen for both of them, quarantined materials could end up
in two different folders and so on.
And in principle, if the MalwareBytes "percentage" indicator is any good
at all, it should read "100%", if the AV Definition file for MSEInstall
is present and up-to-date and the thing is running. This is normally
coordinated by a registry entry, where the active RealTime scanner writes
into the Registry entry that it is the boss. MalwareBytes Free should be
able to "see" things like the MsMpEng.exe executable running in Task Manager >> all the time.
The MSE does this:
1) Every time you open a file in some tool, it scans the executable
program.
2) At boot up, MsMpEng scans the System32 folder and the Program Files.
You will notice more disk activity at startup. It would be the same >> as Windows 10 and its copy of MsMpEng.
3) While the system is running, it should be doing a scan in the
background, of some files on C: . A notification will pop up every
couple days "MSE: I have scanned your files 3 times and no threats found".
From a performance point of view, if you run HashDeep (a checksum utility >> that generates a checksum for every file on the computer), it takes
eight times longer to run when MSE is operational. And that's because
MSE scans every file before HashDeep can work out the checksum. In other words,
when you have this kind of protection, there is a performance penalty.
It's not too noticeable if you open a single MSWord document and start
typing, or if you are web browsing. But anything which is "data-full"
can be slowed. It would be the same if MalwareBytes Paid was running the show.
Each RealTime AV has a different performance level, and needs to do
more (or less) scanning. Some take 50 milliseconds to process a file.
Others take a whole second.
Paul
I removed all the A/V suite on the 780 and ran the MSE.exe and installed Window Defender,. then I loaded the free malewarebytes (expires in 14 days). and my score went up to 87.hangs up at 99% after an hour,. but will let run. It seems long to me though maybe because of MSE?
https://postimg.cc/Whrx8KjW
I installed Avast and then ran a full scan on the 780 but it seem to hang up at 99% I let it go for 2+ hrs and still did not finish so I ended it. I then loaded the rest of the programs and went back to Avast and am running a full scan again. It still
When I installed Superantispyware I got a pop-up warning message:
https://postimg.cc/dkb4Ts7q
I just closed it and I updated Superantispyware and seems to be OK
I'll do the 8500 tomorrow.
Robert
On Thu, 3/27/2025 11:03 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.
https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw
I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?
Thanks,
Robert
No.
MSE (the equivalent of it) is already running.
In Task Manager, sort by name, and see that "MsMpEng.exe"
is running. That is your RealTime AV scanner.
Paul
On Thu, 3/27/2025 11:03 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.
https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw
I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?
Thanks,
Robert
No.
MSE (the equivalent of it) is already running.
In Task Manager, sort by name, and see that "MsMpEng.exe"
is running. That is your RealTime AV scanner.
Paul
On Thu, 3/27/2025 11:03 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.
https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw
I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?
Thanks,
Robert
No.
MSE (the equivalent of it) is already running.
In Task Manager, sort by name, and see that "MsMpEng.exe"
is running. That is your RealTime AV scanner.
Paul
On Thu, 3/27/2025 11:03 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.
https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw
I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?
Thanks,
Robert
No.
MSE (the equivalent of it) is already running.
In Task Manager, sort by name, and see that "MsMpEng.exe"
is running. That is your RealTime AV scanner.
Paul
Ok,.. whew ,.. that's a relief.
The 8500 heat sink fan arrived and also I get a new heat
sink out of the deal and looks like it already has some
thermal paste applied under a plastic cover. Of course,
I'm not taking the heat sink off the 8500 and hopefully
not the 780 if I can figure out how to remove the fan
without doing so.
The 780 fan also arrived and has hinges where it connects
so it will make it easier to figure out how to remove it. I
don't quite understand the long flange it has that slides
under the heat sink cover. It serves no useful purpose that
I can see?
https://postimg.cc/yJ4VgzV7
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 3/27/2025 11:03 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.
https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw
I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?
Thanks,
Robert
No.
MSE (the equivalent of it) is already running.
In Task Manager, sort by name, and see that "MsMpEng.exe"
is running. That is your RealTime AV scanner.
Paul
I opened the 780 again and turn the fan sideways
with the flange in the rear and then it fit. I tried to
see how the fan is attached and it seems I'll have
to remove the heatsink cover after all because the
fan slides into two metal tabs.
https://postimg.cc/qzPqvNjg
I'll have to do a bit more cleaning as well. When I
get the thermal paste do I cover the entire surface after
I clean the old paste with alcohol ?
Thanks,
Robert
Also, on reflection, the 780 isn't used all that much, its a
backup computer. So it stays off most of the time so the
fan isn't being used.
I run it on average about once a week for updates and scans
and I do mrimgs on the 1st of the month
I still have the fan just in case ,... and I will clean it.
Robert
On Sat, 3/29/2025 8:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Also, on reflection, the 780 isn't used all that much, its a
backup computer. So it stays off most of the time so the
fan isn't being used.
I run it on average about once a week for updates and scans
and I do mrimgs on the 1st of the month
I still have the fan just in case ,... and I will clean it.
Robert
I try to provide some background information,
so you have some feeling for the procedure.
Few people are so ham-fisted, to make a real mess of it
(get the paste down into the socket pin area).
As long as you limit yourself to "rice-grain or half-rice-grain"
applications of material, there is little chance of damage.
But if you're going to undo those two screws on the CPU section,
I want you to be prepared, and have the materials on hand,
to do the reassembly. Even if you didn't replace the fan,
and just cleaned it, there would still be the issue of
buttering the CPU again before reassembly.
Because the 65W E7500 in the 780 is actually a 36W processor,
it's unlikely to overheat. Part of the reason the
case needs airflow, is for the rest of the components
in the computer. Like if your video card does not have
a fan, a little air passing by could help it.
Paul
On Fri, 3/28/2025 12:30 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 3/27/2025 11:03 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.
https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw
I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?
Thanks,
Robert
No.
MSE (the equivalent of it) is already running.
In Task Manager, sort by name, and see that "MsMpEng.exe"
is running. That is your RealTime AV scanner.
Paul
I opened the 780 again and turn the fan sideways
with the flange in the rear and then it fit. I tried to
see how the fan is attached and it seems I'll have
to remove the heatsink cover after all because the
fan slides into two metal tabs.
https://postimg.cc/qzPqvNjg
I'll have to do a bit more cleaning as well. When I
get the thermal paste do I cover the entire surface after
I clean the old paste with alcohol ?
Thanks,
Robert
This page has PDF files.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/intel_application_method.html
The 780 is a "Core 2 Duo".
http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/int/vl/intel_app_method_vertical_line_v1.1.pdf
Part of the reason there are different suggestions,
has to do with the curvature of the CPU cap. CPUs
which have soldered lids (the cap is soldered to the
silicon die with low-temperature solder), those are
curved (for pre-stress). CPUs which have a thermal interface
material (TIM) inside the CPU, those are flat on top,
and the heatsink is flat.
The quantities of paste involved are not large. A half
a grain of plump rice, can cover quite a lot of surface.
when they say to draw a line like that, the line is not
very thick.
The purpose of using a line or a dot of paste, is
so the paste "pushes outwards" as compression is
applied to the heatsink (the two screws). This prevents
air from getting entrained in the paste.
I stopped using the "credit card method" some time ago.
They used to encourage users to spread the paste with
a credit card, and use only a thin layer. It should
never look like putting jam on toast. The layer should
be thin, as a thin path conducts better than a thick path.
The particulate embedded in the grease, is what makes
it conduct heat. The grease is there to help it spread
as pressure is applied to the joint.
I have been using the compression method since then. Apply
a localized (dot or line), then squash the heatsink into it.
On the AMD processors I have here, I've been using the
"five dot method", which is a slightly larger central
dot and four dots part way towards the corner. Taking
it apart, and examining the resulting pattern, it seems
to be applying OK. You can do a test fitting, and check
that there was enough.
What you don't want, is you NEVER WANT TO GET THE
PASTE INTO THE SOCKET ELECTRICAL CONTACTS. It would
be quite hard to remove, if it runs that much. The
last time I did an E7500, I used a little bit too much.
But it still was not so much that it went down the sides.
When you use the AS5 tube, and remove the cap (compression fit),
two things can happen. A clear liquid can come out (product
has separated a bit). The clear liquid is the grease portion.
If the grey material comes out, that is grease mixed with
boron nitride (ceramic) particles plus the silver particles
that make the grey color. You want to apply "grey dots" or
"grey line". The clear fluid is not useful for cooling,
and should be avoided in the application process. It might
flow outside of the gap, that clear stuff.
AS5 does not normally separate. It's usually pretty good
at being grey as soon as you withdraw some from the applicator.
I would guess these items (heatsink and CPU) are pretty flat,
and it should not take a very large "half grain of rice" to cover
a square inch of surface.
The "tinting phase" can be your calibration install of
the heatsink. You can "under-apply" the line, make
it thinner. Then Squash it down. Tighten the two screws.
Then take it apart and examine the result. Then, clean off
the paste (no alcohol this time), and some tiny amount of
paste fills the cracks in the aluminum ("tinting").
Then apply your "final line", adjusting the size of the
line for how well it spread during the test fitting.
Spreading the material around while cleaning it up,
counts as "tinting" :-) You will find that wiping it
off, takes some amount of effort.
But the previous TIM, it should be cleaned off so
the surface metals show through. That's mainly so
there is no "rubbish" on the surface, and so when
pressure is applied, the final film thickness
will not be over-thick.
On the 780, the CPU draws either 36W or 43W flat out.
This is not a hot processor by any means. It might
even successfully run with no paste at all. It's when
you are working with 250W processors, you want good
workmanship :-) Even your 3770K is not a high power
processor, at 77W.
The best processor I've got, draws 212W flat out.
They suggested water cooling for it. I didn't believe
them. The first cooler wasn't good enough. But I got
a 250W air cooler for the thing, and that finally
brought the temperature down into the reasonable zone
(60C or so). On modern computers, the cooling uses
closed loop feedback, and not only do you work
on the mechanical details of good cooling, the cooling
also has to be good enough to keep the *control loop*
happy. The control readout "spikes", if the cooler
isn't cooling enough. Which is irritating. With the
250W air cooler, it no longer spikes.
Absolutely nothing like this happens on the Dell Optiplex 780.
It's well behaved, and, it is relatively low power.
No reason for this to be a pestilent install. Should
be clear sailing.
Paul
On Fri, 3/28/2025 12:30 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 3/27/2025 11:03 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.
https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw
I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?
Thanks,
Robert
No.
MSE (the equivalent of it) is already running.
In Task Manager, sort by name, and see that "MsMpEng.exe"
is running. That is your RealTime AV scanner.
Paul
I opened the 780 again and turn the fan sideways
with the flange in the rear and then it fit. I tried to
see how the fan is attached and it seems I'll have
to remove the heatsink cover after all because the
fan slides into two metal tabs.
https://postimg.cc/qzPqvNjg
I'll have to do a bit more cleaning as well. When I
get the thermal paste do I cover the entire surface after
I clean the old paste with alcohol ?
Thanks,
Robert
This page has PDF files.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/intel_application_method.html
The 780 is a "Core 2 Duo".
http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/int/vl/intel_app_method_vertical_line_v1.1.pdf
Part of the reason there are different suggestions,
has to do with the curvature of the CPU cap. CPUs
which have soldered lids (the cap is soldered to the
silicon die with low-temperature solder), those are
curved (for pre-stress). CPUs which have a thermal interface
material (TIM) inside the CPU, those are flat on top,
and the heatsink is flat.
The quantities of paste involved are not large. A half
a grain of plump rice, can cover quite a lot of surface.
when they say to draw a line like that, the line is not
very thick.
The purpose of using a line or a dot of paste, is
so the paste "pushes outwards" as compression is
applied to the heatsink (the two screws). This prevents
air from getting entrained in the paste.
I stopped using the "credit card method" some time ago.
They used to encourage users to spread the paste with
a credit card, and use only a thin layer. It should
never look like putting jam on toast. The layer should
be thin, as a thin path conducts better than a thick path.
The particulate embedded in the grease, is what makes
it conduct heat. The grease is there to help it spread
as pressure is applied to the joint.
I have been using the compression method since then. Apply
a localized (dot or line), then squash the heatsink into it.
On the AMD processors I have here, I've been using the
"five dot method", which is a slightly larger central
dot and four dots part way towards the corner. Taking
it apart, and examining the resulting pattern, it seems
to be applying OK. You can do a test fitting, and check
that there was enough.
What you don't want, is you NEVER WANT TO GET THE
PASTE INTO THE SOCKET ELECTRICAL CONTACTS. It would
be quite hard to remove, if it runs that much. The
last time I did an E7500, I used a little bit too much.
But it still was not so much that it went down the sides.
When you use the AS5 tube, and remove the cap (compression fit),
two things can happen. A clear liquid can come out (product
has separated a bit). The clear liquid is the grease portion.
If the grey material comes out, that is grease mixed with
boron nitride (ceramic) particles plus the silver particles
that make the grey color. You want to apply "grey dots" or
"grey line". The clear fluid is not useful for cooling,
and should be avoided in the application process. It might
flow outside of the gap, that clear stuff.
AS5 does not normally separate. It's usually pretty good
at being grey as soon as you withdraw some from the applicator.
I would guess these items (heatsink and CPU) are pretty flat,
and it should not take a very large "half grain of rice" to cover
a square inch of surface.
The "tinting phase" can be your calibration install of
the heatsink. You can "under-apply" the line, make
it thinner. Then Squash it down. Tighten the two screws.
Then take it apart and examine the result. Then, clean off
the paste (no alcohol this time), and some tiny amount of
paste fills the cracks in the aluminum ("tinting").
Then apply your "final line", adjusting the size of the
line for how well it spread during the test fitting.
Spreading the material around while cleaning it up,
counts as "tinting" :-) You will find that wiping it
off, takes some amount of effort.
But the previous TIM, it should be cleaned off so
the surface metals show through. That's mainly so
there is no "rubbish" on the surface, and so when
pressure is applied, the final film thickness
will not be over-thick.
On the 780, the CPU draws either 36W or 43W flat out.
This is not a hot processor by any means. It might
even successfully run with no paste at all. It's when
you are working with 250W processors, you want good
workmanship :-) Even your 3770K is not a high power
processor, at 77W.
The best processor I've got, draws 212W flat out.
They suggested water cooling for it. I didn't believe
them. The first cooler wasn't good enough. But I got
a 250W air cooler for the thing, and that finally
brought the temperature down into the reasonable zone
(60C or so). On modern computers, the cooling uses
closed loop feedback, and not only do you work
on the mechanical details of good cooling, the cooling
also has to be good enough to keep the *control loop*
happy. The control readout "spikes", if the cooler
isn't cooling enough. Which is irritating. With the
250W air cooler, it no longer spikes.
Absolutely nothing like this happens on the Dell Optiplex 780.
It's well behaved, and, it is relatively low power.
No reason for this to be a pestilent install. Should
be clear sailing.
Paul
On Sat, 3/29/2025 8:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Also, on reflection, the 780 isn't used all that much, its a
backup computer. So it stays off most of the time so the
fan isn't being used.
I run it on average about once a week for updates and scans
and I do mrimgs on the 1st of the month
I still have the fan just in case ,... and I will clean it.
Robert
I try to provide some background information,
so you have some feeling for the procedure.
Few people are so ham-fisted, to make a real mess of it
(get the paste down into the socket pin area).
As long as you limit yourself to "rice-grain or half-rice-grain"
applications of material, there is little chance of damage.
But if you're going to undo those two screws on the CPU section,
I want you to be prepared, and have the materials on hand,
to do the reassembly. Even if you didn't replace the fan,
and just cleaned it, there would still be the issue of
buttering the CPU again before reassembly.
Because the 65W E7500 in the 780 is actually a 36W processor,
it's unlikely to overheat. Part of the reason the
case needs airflow, is for the rest of the components
in the computer. Like if your video card does not have
a fan, a little air passing by could help it.
Paul
I understand,.. I'm just a bit afraid of frying the 780 maybe if I took
it step by step and sent you pictures of how I applied the paste and
the test fit etc. and then you can OK it then maybe I could do it that
way.
Could I leave the final thermal paste on until you OK it. It won't harden
or anything? It would mean leaving the 780 open for awhile. What type
of pattern do you suggest? If it's a compression fit then nothing should
be near the edges correct?
https://postimg.cc/y3YbFgf1
https://postimg.cc/gx6BqPKZ
https://postimg.cc/sGXTBFX1
https://postimg.cc/gxRNLHYy
I still need to get isopropyl alcohol and do I use coffee filters to clean ?
On top of everything else I have car problems.
I had replaced nearly everything there was to replace just because I
wanted to so it would last longer like with the computers and yet
when drove it to Walgreen's it stalled on me. I had to leave it and walk home.
It spent the night there and we got it back home the next day. It
apparently needed a new distributor which I bought and my mechanic
(who lives across from me) installed. However the car doesn't run
right afterwards,.. it lurches forward and the check light comes on/off. I could never get it into high gear and I barely made it to the store and
back. I could only drive in lurching in the low gears. So he's going to
look at it again tomorrow and hopefully find what's wrong. So I need to
get the car running to get the alcohol or next time I go to the store.
Actually, we replaced the video card and it does have a fan on it.
https://postimg.cc/gn91rjpZ
I have to say the design of the 780 has something to be desired where you have to remove the heatsink to change a fan. It would of been better to make separate screws for each.
Robert
On Sun, 3/30/2025 4:02 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Thankfully my mechanic managed to get the car running
normally again. However, I still need to replace the
distributor. So,I've ordered a new one.
I'll get the alcohol tomorrow and install the fan in the
780 and you can guide me to the place of the thermal paste.
btw can I squeeze some thermal paste onto a piece of
plastic and use a toothpick to apply it?
Robert
It should be applied directly, to not waste it.
Enough of the stuff gets wasted on false starts.
If you want to "practice", then flip up the heatsink
portion and try and apply a half grain. Wipe off, if you
are happy with the result. The surfaces don't have
to be entirely clean, when you are tinting a surface,
the stuff is damn hard to remove, and you can end up
using some isopropyl anyway. It's easier to clean up
the heatsink, if you're just practicing your "Make a
half-grain" test dot. Cleaning the CPU is more complicated,
by comparison.
The paste goes on the CPU top, and the heatsink
is then lowered onto the result, to spread it around.
The pressure of screwing the heatsink down,
spreads it, and hopefully, without air gaps.
That's why this has any "ceremony" to it, it is an
attempt to avoid trapping air into the paste. This
is why we no longer spread the paste around with
a credit card, because the credit card method trapped
air underneath during the fitting of the heatsink.
Using dots, the dots spread. Using more than one
dot, the "circles" of material join, and the flow
"tends" to push air outwards.
Your processors (just like my E8400) are low power.
The E7500 on the Dell 780, is one of the lowest
power desktop processors of that era. Only 36 watts.
(I measured them, that's how I know that number.)
Only if you forgot the paste entirely, is there any
chance at all of it overheating. Just one dot of
paste would be enough to cool it. But worrying about
details is "the acquiring of a skill". Some day,
you could own a 200 watt processor, and then you
really need to do the job properly. And you've already
practiced doing it the right way, on your 36 watt processor.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 3/30/2025 4:02 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Thankfully my mechanic managed to get the car running
normally again. However, I still need to replace the
distributor. So,I've ordered a new one.
I'll get the alcohol tomorrow and install the fan in the
780 and you can guide me to the place of the thermal paste.
btw can I squeeze some thermal paste onto a piece of
plastic and use a toothpick to apply it?
Robert
It should be applied directly, to not waste it.
Enough of the stuff gets wasted on false starts.
If you want to "practice", then flip up the heatsink
portion and try and apply a half grain. Wipe off, if you
are happy with the result. The surfaces don't have
to be entirely clean, when you are tinting a surface,
the stuff is damn hard to remove, and you can end up
using some isopropyl anyway. It's easier to clean up
the heatsink, if you're just practicing your "Make a
half-grain" test dot. Cleaning the CPU is more complicated,
by comparison.
The paste goes on the CPU top, and the heatsink
is then lowered onto the result, to spread it around.
The pressure of screwing the heatsink down,
spreads it, and hopefully, without air gaps.
That's why this has any "ceremony" to it, it is an
attempt to avoid trapping air into the paste. This
is why we no longer spread the paste around with
a credit card, because the credit card method trapped
air underneath during the fitting of the heatsink.
Using dots, the dots spread. Using more than one
dot, the "circles" of material join, and the flow
"tends" to push air outwards.
Your processors (just like my E8400) are low power.
The E7500 on the Dell 780, is one of the lowest
power desktop processors of that era. Only 36 watts.
(I measured them, that's how I know that number.)
Only if you forgot the paste entirely, is there any
chance at all of it overheating. Just one dot of
paste would be enough to cool it. But worrying about
details is "the acquiring of a skill". Some day,
you could own a 200 watt processor, and then you
really need to do the job properly. And you've already
practiced doing it the right way, on your 36 watt processor.
Paul
OIC ,.. so my pics of different application dots is all wrong,,
I just put a dot in the middle? or maybe 3? I'm trying to figure
out how much to use.
So I do my tests on the underside of the heat sink and if satisfied
wipe it off. Then clean the CPU and heatsink and apply the thermal
paste and screw it down (with or without the top cover?)Then I remove
it again to see the results (if it spread). If your satisfied with it, then I'll clean and repeat it for the final time. (do I really use coffee filter to clean with?)
If I don't have to screw down the cover could I just screw down
the CPU and leave the cover loose so if I have to change the fan
again I don't have to go through this?
On reflection, I think I'll wait until after I do the mrimgs before I
change the fan on the 780.
Thanks,
Robert
Thankfully my mechanic managed to get the car running
normally again. However, I still need to replace the
distributor. So,I've ordered a new one.
I'll get the alcohol tomorrow and install the fan in the
780 and you can guide me to the place of the thermal paste.
btw can I squeeze some thermal paste onto a piece of
plastic and use a toothpick to apply it?
Robert
On Mon, 3/31/2025 2:00 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 3/30/2025 4:02 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Thankfully my mechanic managed to get the car running
normally again. However, I still need to replace the
distributor. So,I've ordered a new one.
I'll get the alcohol tomorrow and install the fan in the
780 and you can guide me to the place of the thermal paste.
btw can I squeeze some thermal paste onto a piece of
plastic and use a toothpick to apply it?
Robert
It should be applied directly, to not waste it.
Enough of the stuff gets wasted on false starts.
If you want to "practice", then flip up the heatsink
portion and try and apply a half grain. Wipe off, if you
are happy with the result. The surfaces don't have
to be entirely clean, when you are tinting a surface,
the stuff is damn hard to remove, and you can end up
using some isopropyl anyway. It's easier to clean up
the heatsink, if you're just practicing your "Make a
half-grain" test dot. Cleaning the CPU is more complicated,
by comparison.
The paste goes on the CPU top, and the heatsink
is then lowered onto the result, to spread it around.
The pressure of screwing the heatsink down,
spreads it, and hopefully, without air gaps.
That's why this has any "ceremony" to it, it is an
attempt to avoid trapping air into the paste. This
is why we no longer spread the paste around with
a credit card, because the credit card method trapped
air underneath during the fitting of the heatsink.
Using dots, the dots spread. Using more than one
dot, the "circles" of material join, and the flow
"tends" to push air outwards.
Your processors (just like my E8400) are low power.
The E7500 on the Dell 780, is one of the lowest
power desktop processors of that era. Only 36 watts.
(I measured them, that's how I know that number.)
Only if you forgot the paste entirely, is there any
chance at all of it overheating. Just one dot of
paste would be enough to cool it. But worrying about
details is "the acquiring of a skill". Some day,
you could own a 200 watt processor, and then you
really need to do the job properly. And you've already
practiced doing it the right way, on your 36 watt processor.
Paul
OIC ,.. so my pics of different application dots is all wrong,,
I just put a dot in the middle? or maybe 3? I'm trying to figure
out how much to use.
So I do my tests on the underside of the heat sink and if satisfied
wipe it off. Then clean the CPU and heatsink and apply the thermal
paste and screw it down (with or without the top cover?)Then I remove
it again to see the results (if it spread). If your satisfied with it, then I'll clean and repeat it for the final time. (do I really use coffee filter to clean with?)
If I don't have to screw down the cover could I just screw down
the CPU and leave the cover loose so if I have to change the fan
again I don't have to go through this?
On reflection, I think I'll wait until after I do the mrimgs before I
change the fan on the 780.
Thanks,
Robert
The cover routes the air through the cooler fins.
When you are putting it together for the last time,
all parts of it have to be present. Even though it's
a bunch of parts, it is an integrated assembly that
does not work right, without all the parts. The
fan frame holds the fan. The CPU frame holds the
CPU heatsink and fins. And the CPU frame provides
the compression force, to keep the heatsink pressed
against the CPU.
The CPU lever arm, keeps the CPU pressed against the
spring contacts.
You can empirically learn how to fit it. The test fittings
are to help calibrate your technique, so you don't
apply too much paste. I think the odds of you making
buttered toast in there, are pretty low. But I've dealt
with people who insist on overdoing it.
The purpose of the paste, is to displace the air in the gap.
Paste is a better conductor of heat, than air is.
Only enough paste need populate the gap, to keep the air out.
That's why you apply a half-grain, do a test fitting, tighten
the two CPU screws, undo it, and check. If it looks like
it took up 75% of the space (as a "circle of paste"),
then you know you need 33% more (4/3) to bring the circle to full
size.
If the paste does not form a circle when squished down
by the screwed-on heatsink, then you know there is a convex
part in there, a mis-shapen detail, and you only need
a slight bit more paste in the unfilled
direction to finish the job. The Arctic Silver PDF
document, tells you why the shape they selected is being
used. But in my opinion, applying in a line is a mistake,
because it is very hard for the operator to make a thin
enough line. It's a dosing issue, some of those patterns.
Just as i indicated, making a million small dots is hard
to do, because it is difficult to control the making of
very small dots.
You can clean it off with a paper towel. It's a 36W CPU.
the details don't matter that much. It might even survive
without paste at all, but that's not worth the risk.
It is a lot easier to clean AS5, if the paper towel has
a bit of isopropyl on it.
Bottom line, just keep debris out of the socket area.
Paul
On Mon, 3/31/2025 2:00 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 3/30/2025 4:02 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Thankfully my mechanic managed to get the car running
normally again. However, I still need to replace the
distributor. So,I've ordered a new one.
I'll get the alcohol tomorrow and install the fan in the
780 and you can guide me to the place of the thermal paste.
btw can I squeeze some thermal paste onto a piece of
plastic and use a toothpick to apply it?
Robert
It should be applied directly, to not waste it.
Enough of the stuff gets wasted on false starts.
If you want to "practice", then flip up the heatsink
portion and try and apply a half grain. Wipe off, if you
are happy with the result. The surfaces don't have
to be entirely clean, when you are tinting a surface,
the stuff is damn hard to remove, and you can end up
using some isopropyl anyway. It's easier to clean up
the heatsink, if you're just practicing your "Make a
half-grain" test dot. Cleaning the CPU is more complicated,
by comparison.
The paste goes on the CPU top, and the heatsink
is then lowered onto the result, to spread it around.
The pressure of screwing the heatsink down,
spreads it, and hopefully, without air gaps.
That's why this has any "ceremony" to it, it is an
attempt to avoid trapping air into the paste. This
is why we no longer spread the paste around with
a credit card, because the credit card method trapped
air underneath during the fitting of the heatsink.
Using dots, the dots spread. Using more than one
dot, the "circles" of material join, and the flow
"tends" to push air outwards.
Your processors (just like my E8400) are low power.
The E7500 on the Dell 780, is one of the lowest
power desktop processors of that era. Only 36 watts.
(I measured them, that's how I know that number.)
Only if you forgot the paste entirely, is there any
chance at all of it overheating. Just one dot of
paste would be enough to cool it. But worrying about
details is "the acquiring of a skill". Some day,
you could own a 200 watt processor, and then you
really need to do the job properly. And you've already
practiced doing it the right way, on your 36 watt processor.
Paul
OIC ,.. so my pics of different application dots is all wrong,,
I just put a dot in the middle? or maybe 3? I'm trying to figure
out how much to use.
So I do my tests on the underside of the heat sink and if satisfied
wipe it off. Then clean the CPU and heatsink and apply the thermal
paste and screw it down (with or without the top cover?)Then I remove
it again to see the results (if it spread). If your satisfied with it, then I'll clean and repeat it for the final time. (do I really use coffee filter to clean with?)
If I don't have to screw down the cover could I just screw down
the CPU and leave the cover loose so if I have to change the fan
again I don't have to go through this?
On reflection, I think I'll wait until after I do the mrimgs before I
change the fan on the 780.
Thanks,
Robert
The cover routes the air through the cooler fins.
When you are putting it together for the last time,
all parts of it have to be present. Even though it's
a bunch of parts, it is an integrated assembly that
does not work right, without all the parts. The
fan frame holds the fan. The CPU frame holds the
CPU heatsink and fins. And the CPU frame provides
the compression force, to keep the heatsink pressed
against the CPU.
The CPU lever arm, keeps the CPU pressed against the
spring contacts.
You can empirically learn how to fit it. The test fittings
are to help calibrate your technique, so you don't
apply too much paste. I think the odds of you making
buttered toast in there, are pretty low. But I've dealt
with people who insist on overdoing it.
The purpose of the paste, is to displace the air in the gap.
Paste is a better conductor of heat, than air is.
Only enough paste need populate the gap, to keep the air out.
That's why you apply a half-grain, do a test fitting, tighten
the two CPU screws, undo it, and check. If it looks like
it took up 75% of the space (as a "circle of paste"),
then you know you need 33% more (4/3) to bring the circle to full
size.
If the paste does not form a circle when squished down
by the screwed-on heatsink, then you know there is a convex
part in there, a mis-shapen detail, and you only need
a slight bit more paste in the unfilled
direction to finish the job. The Arctic Silver PDF
document, tells you why the shape they selected is being
used. But in my opinion, applying in a line is a mistake,
because it is very hard for the operator to make a thin
enough line. It's a dosing issue, some of those patterns.
Just as i indicated, making a million small dots is hard
to do, because it is difficult to control the making of
very small dots.
You can clean it off with a paper towel. It's a 36W CPU.
the details don't matter that much. It might even survive
without paste at all, but that's not worth the risk.
It is a lot easier to clean AS5, if the paper towel has
a bit of isopropyl on it.
Bottom line, just keep debris out of the socket area.
Paul
Just curious,. could you tell me what this is ?
https://postimg.cc/0MN0W44p
I'm wondering if the heatsink has a similar clip? How to remove it?
It seems I need to slide the cover away from the fan once unscrewed
to release the fan from the tabs.
Robert
On Mon, 3/31/2025 2:00 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 3/30/2025 4:02 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Thankfully my mechanic managed to get the car running
normally again. However, I still need to replace the
distributor. So,I've ordered a new one.
I'll get the alcohol tomorrow and install the fan in the
780 and you can guide me to the place of the thermal paste.
btw can I squeeze some thermal paste onto a piece of
plastic and use a toothpick to apply it?
Robert
It should be applied directly, to not waste it.
Enough of the stuff gets wasted on false starts.
If you want to "practice", then flip up the heatsink
portion and try and apply a half grain. Wipe off, if you
are happy with the result. The surfaces don't have
to be entirely clean, when you are tinting a surface,
the stuff is damn hard to remove, and you can end up
using some isopropyl anyway. It's easier to clean up
the heatsink, if you're just practicing your "Make a
half-grain" test dot. Cleaning the CPU is more complicated,
by comparison.
The paste goes on the CPU top, and the heatsink
is then lowered onto the result, to spread it around.
The pressure of screwing the heatsink down,
spreads it, and hopefully, without air gaps.
That's why this has any "ceremony" to it, it is an
attempt to avoid trapping air into the paste. This
is why we no longer spread the paste around with
a credit card, because the credit card method trapped
air underneath during the fitting of the heatsink.
Using dots, the dots spread. Using more than one
dot, the "circles" of material join, and the flow
"tends" to push air outwards.
Your processors (just like my E8400) are low power.
The E7500 on the Dell 780, is one of the lowest
power desktop processors of that era. Only 36 watts.
(I measured them, that's how I know that number.)
Only if you forgot the paste entirely, is there any
chance at all of it overheating. Just one dot of
paste would be enough to cool it. But worrying about
details is "the acquiring of a skill". Some day,
you could own a 200 watt processor, and then you
really need to do the job properly. And you've already
practiced doing it the right way, on your 36 watt processor.
Paul
OIC ,.. so my pics of different application dots is all wrong,,
I just put a dot in the middle? or maybe 3? I'm trying to figure
out how much to use.
So I do my tests on the underside of the heat sink and if satisfied
wipe it off. Then clean the CPU and heatsink and apply the thermal
paste and screw it down (with or without the top cover?)Then I remove
it again to see the results (if it spread). If your satisfied with it, then I'll clean and repeat it for the final time. (do I really use coffee filter to clean with?)
If I don't have to screw down the cover could I just screw down
the CPU and leave the cover loose so if I have to change the fan
again I don't have to go through this?
On reflection, I think I'll wait until after I do the mrimgs before I
change the fan on the 780.
Thanks,
Robert
The cover routes the air through the cooler fins.
When you are putting it together for the last time,
all parts of it have to be present. Even though it's
a bunch of parts, it is an integrated assembly that
does not work right, without all the parts. The
fan frame holds the fan. The CPU frame holds the
CPU heatsink and fins. And the CPU frame provides
the compression force, to keep the heatsink pressed
against the CPU.
The CPU lever arm, keeps the CPU pressed against the
spring contacts.
You can empirically learn how to fit it. The test fittings
are to help calibrate your technique, so you don't
apply too much paste. I think the odds of you making
buttered toast in there, are pretty low. But I've dealt
with people who insist on overdoing it.
The purpose of the paste, is to displace the air in the gap.
Paste is a better conductor of heat, than air is.
Only enough paste need populate the gap, to keep the air out.
That's why you apply a half-grain, do a test fitting, tighten
the two CPU screws, undo it, and check. If it looks like
it took up 75% of the space (as a "circle of paste"),
then you know you need 33% more (4/3) to bring the circle to full
size.
If the paste does not form a circle when squished down
by the screwed-on heatsink, then you know there is a convex
part in there, a mis-shapen detail, and you only need
a slight bit more paste in the unfilled
direction to finish the job. The Arctic Silver PDF
document, tells you why the shape they selected is being
used. But in my opinion, applying in a line is a mistake,
because it is very hard for the operator to make a thin
enough line. It's a dosing issue, some of those patterns.
Just as i indicated, making a million small dots is hard
to do, because it is difficult to control the making of
very small dots.
You can clean it off with a paper towel. It's a 36W CPU.
the details don't matter that much. It might even survive
without paste at all, but that's not worth the risk.
It is a lot easier to clean AS5, if the paper towel has
a bit of isopropyl on it.
Bottom line, just keep debris out of the socket area.
Paul
Actually, after thinking about it the cover and fan
should come off as one piece because the fan is held
on with the tabs.
Robert
On Mon, 3/31/2025 7:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Just curious,. could you tell me what this is ?
https://postimg.cc/0MN0W44p
I'm wondering if the heatsink has a similar clip? How to remove it?
It seems I need to slide the cover away from the fan once unscrewed
to release the fan from the tabs.
Robert
That's a spring to hold on the Northbridge heatsink.
On some computers of that era, if the spring falls off,
it breaks an electrical circuit between the two inverted-U
retainers, and the computer stops. That could be one reason
the U-shaped retainers are made of the wrong metal -- the
metal was selected to make the electrical checking circuit
to work, and less so for the solder to stick to it and
hold the spring into place.
I think I've seen the secondary side of one motherboard
from that era, where the U-shaped retainers had their legs
bent, so the U-shaped part could not escape. And that is
the proper way to do those. But many other boards, the U-retainer
is poked in, and it will fall off if the solder fails. The legs
are not formed, for retention.
It's really all too funny, that stupid design. Intel
made the design, and recommended it to the manufacturers.
If you look today, you should not be seeing that any more.
On 40mm heatsinks, they use plastic push pins on two corners
and the push pins have a coil spring to set the
level of Normal Force.
Paul
On Mon, 3/31/2025 7:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Just curious,. could you tell me what this is ?
https://postimg.cc/0MN0W44p
I'm wondering if the heatsink has a similar clip? How to remove it?
It seems I need to slide the cover away from the fan once unscrewed
to release the fan from the tabs.
Robert
That's a spring to hold on the Northbridge heatsink.
On some computers of that era, if the spring falls off,
it breaks an electrical circuit between the two inverted-U
retainers, and the computer stops. That could be one reason
the U-shaped retainers are made of the wrong metal -- the
metal was selected to make the electrical checking circuit
to work, and less so for the solder to stick to it and
hold the spring into place.
I think I've seen the secondary side of one motherboard
from that era, where the U-shaped retainers had their legs
bent, so the U-shaped part could not escape. And that is
the proper way to do those. But many other boards, the U-retainer
is poked in, and it will fall off if the solder fails. The legs
are not formed, for retention.
It's really all too funny, that stupid design. Intel
made the design, and recommended it to the manufacturers.
If you look today, you should not be seeing that any more.
On 40mm heatsinks, they use plastic push pins on two corners
and the push pins have a coil spring to set the
level of Normal Force.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 3/31/2025 7:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Just curious,. could you tell me what this is ?
https://postimg.cc/0MN0W44p
I'm wondering if the heatsink has a similar clip? How to remove it?
It seems I need to slide the cover away from the fan once unscrewed
to release the fan from the tabs.
Robert
That's a spring to hold on the Northbridge heatsink.
On some computers of that era, if the spring falls off,
it breaks an electrical circuit between the two inverted-U
retainers, and the computer stops. That could be one reason
the U-shaped retainers are made of the wrong metal -- the
metal was selected to make the electrical checking circuit
to work, and less so for the solder to stick to it and
hold the spring into place.
I think I've seen the secondary side of one motherboard
from that era, where the U-shaped retainers had their legs
bent, so the U-shaped part could not escape. And that is
the proper way to do those. But many other boards, the U-retainer
is poked in, and it will fall off if the solder fails. The legs
are not formed, for retention.
It's really all too funny, that stupid design. Intel
made the design, and recommended it to the manufacturers.
If you look today, you should not be seeing that any more.
On 40mm heatsinks, they use plastic push pins on two corners
and the push pins have a coil spring to set the
level of Normal Force.
Paul
I opened up the 780 and unscrewed the heatsink cover but it
didn't come off but pivoted forward. It was pretty dirty so I
used the mini-vac and alcohol to clean as best I could.
However, I couldn't remove the fan. I tried for 30 minutes
trying to get it off but couldn't. It seems like it was made not to
come off.
Then I cleaned the heatsink and CPU and it looked like there wasn't
much there. I applied the thermal paste then screwed it down
and here's the pattern:
https://postimg.cc/BtJFG154
I cleaned it again and added a little bit more thermal paste and
screwed it down and put everything back together.
I haven't started the 780 since,. I'm waiting for your OK to see if it's alright to start it up and see if it works. I hope it does but I'm bummed that I could not get the fan out and believe me I tried.
In passing, every time I boot the 780 recently I've been getting this screen popping up before the desktop:
https://postimg.cc/R3cWkMNW
Robert
I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.
I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.
Robert
On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.
I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.
Robert
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE
Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif
The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.
Paul
On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.
I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.
Robert
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE
Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif
The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.
Paul
On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.
I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.
Robert
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE
Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif
The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.
Paul
On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.
I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.
Robert
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE
Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif
The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.
Paul
On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.
I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.
Robert
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE
Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif
The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.
Paul
On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.
I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.
Robert
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE
Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif
The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.
Paul
Paul wrote:my main computer.
On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.
I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.
Robert
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE
Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the
assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif
The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.
Paul
Once I had the fan out I cleaned the area before installing the new fan
on the 780.
Regarding the 8500,.. I'm wondering whether I should install a new heat
and fan. You see it came all together as one unit. I was going to just remove the fan part but since I've done thermal pasting now I think you would recommend replacing the heat sink and fan as its one unit. I'm just nervous about doing it on the 8500,
However it should be allot easier than the 780 since there's no cover but what worries me is that it has (4) screws and I'm concerned about getting a proper fit with the thermal paste. The rear fan is no problem, just (4) screws into the grill.
What do you think ?
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.
I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.
Robert
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE
Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the
assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif
The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.
Paul
He had considerably more room to work than I did and my heatsink
pivoted forward, it did not come off like his did. He was working in a
bare frame where I had damn little room. I tried pressing down on the clip on the other side with a screwdriver but it didn't slide out. I got the one side loose with the tab but not the other.
You want me to try again ?
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.
I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.
Robert
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE
Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the
assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif
The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.
Paul
Believe me, I did pull on it radically, it should have come free but didn't and like I said I tried for 30 minutes to get it off. If I was going to unscrew
the heatsink you can bet I tried getting it off to put the new fan on but it wouldn't budge. At least I was able to vacuum and clean it and did the thermal paste.
I powered up the 780 and all looks normal and it's totally silent. I ran a full
Avast scan on it.
I checked the setting's on Avast but silence notifications is already checked.
https://postimg.cc/N9K7yQwG
I also had this message under notifications which I think is their way of wanting me to sign up for premium.
https://postimg.cc/N5q7MhCY
I decided to run a HD-Tune
https://postimg.cc/fVWgLkMn
https://postimg.cc/QBH4QPBf
https://postimg.cc/5QMsM2sr
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.
I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.
Robert
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE
Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the
assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif
The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.
Paul
Here's the 8500 heatsink/fan assembly
https://postimg.cc/Kkchb46z
https://postimg.cc/xJsD1nQP
Robert
On Wed, 4/2/2025 12:45 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.
I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.
Robert
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE
Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the
assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif
The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.
Paul
Here's the 8500 heatsink/fan assembly
https://postimg.cc/Kkchb46z
https://postimg.cc/xJsD1nQP
Robert
That plastic is likely intended to be removed, before installation.
That green plastic could be covering the real paste. Some of the
covers like that, have text telling you to remove it.
The screened-on material, in many cases is phase change TIM. It
softens when it is really hot, and then it will flow over the
top surface, and the heatsink will move closer to the CPU. That's
a bit different than your grease-based AS5 and how it works.
When material is screen-printed on a item like that, at least when
I do them, when I first put the thing in place, I invariably make
a mistake and have to take it apart. the paste gets scratched. In
some cases, I end up removing the material (which is harder to remove
than AS5) and putting the grease-based TIM on instead.
In your case, you can take apart the old cooler, clean it off,
and practice sitting it on top of the CPU, and checking how
hard it is to tighten up, without the heatsink skating all over the
place.
One you are comfortable fitting the old one, you can take the green
cover off the new cooler, fit it, and screw it down. The amount of
paste should be precisely calibrated for proper coverage, so no
"dot" activity or calibrating is required. You don't then want
to take it apart again, if you can avoid it. That's why I would
want you to rehearse with the old sink - I don't think much
rehearsal is required, but I want you to be aware that a lot
of the things i've reassembled (like video cards), I find that
I mis-judged how easy it was, and I end up wasting quite a bit
of paste fighting with the stupid thing. Rehearsing with an old
dry heatsink, is cheaper.
When fitting the fan, you might benefit from taking a picture
of the assembly before you begin. The fan can be rotated, but
one position may put less stress on the fan cable, or get in
the way less, than other orientations. (Sometimes a fan cable
gets pinched under the heatsink!) The cooling works better
if the fan is blowing down on the cooler, than if it is pulling
air upwards. The new fan should be fitted with the hub in the
same orientation as the old one. (If the old label was upwards,
the new label should be upwards.)
In the past, I've taken fans and tested them with a 12V supply,
felt the air movement (which side the air comes out), then take
a Sharpie and put an arrow on the side of the fan frame, to mark
airflow direction. That helps me verify, before power up,
that I put the fan back on my machine, in the correct direction.
But for yours, as long as you take a picture of the assembly,
you'll have a reference for later if there are any questions.
Paul
On Wed, 4/2/2025 12:45 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.
I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.
Robert
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE
Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the
assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif
The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.
Paul
Here's the 8500 heatsink/fan assembly
https://postimg.cc/Kkchb46z
https://postimg.cc/xJsD1nQP
Robert
That plastic is likely intended to be removed, before installation.
That green plastic could be covering the real paste. Some of the
covers like that, have text telling you to remove it.
The screened-on material, in many cases is phase change TIM. It
softens when it is really hot, and then it will flow over the
top surface, and the heatsink will move closer to the CPU. That's
a bit different than your grease-based AS5 and how it works.
When material is screen-printed on a item like that, at least when
I do them, when I first put the thing in place, I invariably make
a mistake and have to take it apart. the paste gets scratched. In
some cases, I end up removing the material (which is harder to remove
than AS5) and putting the grease-based TIM on instead.
In your case, you can take apart the old cooler, clean it off,
and practice sitting it on top of the CPU, and checking how
hard it is to tighten up, without the heatsink skating all over the
place.
One you are comfortable fitting the old one, you can take the green
cover off the new cooler, fit it, and screw it down. The amount of
paste should be precisely calibrated for proper coverage, so no
"dot" activity or calibrating is required. You don't then want
to take it apart again, if you can avoid it. That's why I would
want you to rehearse with the old sink - I don't think much
rehearsal is required, but I want you to be aware that a lot
of the things i've reassembled (like video cards), I find that
I mis-judged how easy it was, and I end up wasting quite a bit
of paste fighting with the stupid thing. Rehearsing with an old
dry heatsink, is cheaper.
When fitting the fan, you might benefit from taking a picture
of the assembly before you begin. The fan can be rotated, but
one position may put less stress on the fan cable, or get in
the way less, than other orientations. (Sometimes a fan cable
gets pinched under the heatsink!) The cooling works better
if the fan is blowing down on the cooler, than if it is pulling
air upwards. The new fan should be fitted with the hub in the
same orientation as the old one. (If the old label was upwards,
the new label should be upwards.)
In the past, I've taken fans and tested them with a 12V supply,
felt the air movement (which side the air comes out), then take
a Sharpie and put an arrow on the side of the fan frame, to mark
airflow direction. That helps me verify, before power up,
that I put the fan back on my machine, in the correct direction.
But for yours, as long as you take a picture of the assembly,
you'll have a reference for later if there are any questions.
Paul
On Wed, 4/2/2025 12:45 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.
I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.
Robert
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE
Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the
assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif
The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.
Paul
Here's the 8500 heatsink/fan assembly
https://postimg.cc/Kkchb46z
https://postimg.cc/xJsD1nQP
Robert
That plastic is likely intended to be removed, before installation.
That green plastic could be covering the real paste. Some of the
covers like that, have text telling you to remove it.
The screened-on material, in many cases is phase change TIM. It
softens when it is really hot, and then it will flow over the
top surface, and the heatsink will move closer to the CPU. That's
a bit different than your grease-based AS5 and how it works.
When material is screen-printed on a item like that, at least when
I do them, when I first put the thing in place, I invariably make
a mistake and have to take it apart. the paste gets scratched. In
some cases, I end up removing the material (which is harder to remove
than AS5) and putting the grease-based TIM on instead.
In your case, you can take apart the old cooler, clean it off,
and practice sitting it on top of the CPU, and checking how
hard it is to tighten up, without the heatsink skating all over the
place.
One you are comfortable fitting the old one, you can take the green
cover off the new cooler, fit it, and screw it down. The amount of
paste should be precisely calibrated for proper coverage, so no
"dot" activity or calibrating is required. You don't then want
to take it apart again, if you can avoid it. That's why I would
want you to rehearse with the old sink - I don't think much
rehearsal is required, but I want you to be aware that a lot
of the things i've reassembled (like video cards), I find that
I mis-judged how easy it was, and I end up wasting quite a bit
of paste fighting with the stupid thing. Rehearsing with an old
dry heatsink, is cheaper.
When fitting the fan, you might benefit from taking a picture
of the assembly before you begin. The fan can be rotated, but
one position may put less stress on the fan cable, or get in
the way less, than other orientations. (Sometimes a fan cable
gets pinched under the heatsink!) The cooling works better
if the fan is blowing down on the cooler, than if it is pulling
air upwards. The new fan should be fitted with the hub in the
same orientation as the old one. (If the old label was upwards,
the new label should be upwards.)
In the past, I've taken fans and tested them with a 12V supply,
felt the air movement (which side the air comes out), then take
a Sharpie and put an arrow on the side of the fan frame, to mark
airflow direction. That helps me verify, before power up,
that I put the fan back on my machine, in the correct direction.
But for yours, as long as you take a picture of the assembly,
you'll have a reference for later if there are any questions.
Paul
Success ! I followed your advise and cleaned the CPU
and Heatsink and then test fitted the old heatsink/fan (3)
times,.. then removed the green plastic and fitted the new
heatsink/fan and screwed it down.
here's the old heatsink after I cleaned it:
https://postimg.cc/QFZ8XR06
the CPU
https://postimg.cc/Ff9hS0t3
the new heatsink/fan installed
https://postimg.cc/7GhDsDZL
Everything seems fine,. and its totally silent. Now I just have
to do the rear fan when it arrives and were done.
btw since the Avast pop-up was already checked in settings but
I kept getting the page on startup. I decided to go to programs
and sure enough, there it was Avast Browser. So I uninstalled it
and everything is back to normal
https://postimg.cc/675NqwRh
Somehow, someway, I must of accidentally downloaded it but I
don't remember doing so..
Many Thanks,
Robert
On Fri, 4/4/2025 2:59 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success ! I followed your advise and cleaned the CPU
and Heatsink and then test fitted the old heatsink/fan (3)
times,.. then removed the green plastic and fitted the new
heatsink/fan and screwed it down.
here's the old heatsink after I cleaned it:
https://postimg.cc/QFZ8XR06
the CPU
https://postimg.cc/Ff9hS0t3
the new heatsink/fan installed
https://postimg.cc/7GhDsDZL
Everything seems fine,. and its totally silent. Now I just have
to do the rear fan when it arrives and were done.
btw since the Avast pop-up was already checked in settings but
I kept getting the page on startup. I decided to go to programs
and sure enough, there it was Avast Browser. So I uninstalled it
and everything is back to normal
https://postimg.cc/675NqwRh
Somehow, someway, I must of accidentally downloaded it but I
don't remember doing so..
Many Thanks,
Robert
The AVast browser likely invited itself in. It's a part
of the AVast package at some point. When I tested that here,
I ended up with that browser. I would not blame yourself
for it getting there. I'm kinda curious what version they
use for that, as Chrome development for win7 stopped some
time ago.
Paul
On Fri, 4/4/2025 2:59 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Success ! I followed your advise and cleaned the CPU
and Heatsink and then test fitted the old heatsink/fan (3)
times,.. then removed the green plastic and fitted the new
heatsink/fan and screwed it down.
here's the old heatsink after I cleaned it:
https://postimg.cc/QFZ8XR06
the CPU
https://postimg.cc/Ff9hS0t3
the new heatsink/fan installed
https://postimg.cc/7GhDsDZL
Everything seems fine,. and its totally silent. Now I just have
to do the rear fan when it arrives and were done.
btw since the Avast pop-up was already checked in settings but
I kept getting the page on startup. I decided to go to programs
and sure enough, there it was Avast Browser. So I uninstalled it
and everything is back to normal
https://postimg.cc/675NqwRh
Somehow, someway, I must of accidentally downloaded it but I
don't remember doing so..
Many Thanks,
Robert
The AVast browser likely invited itself in. It's a part
of the AVast package at some point. When I tested that here,
I ended up with that browser. I would not blame yourself
for it getting there. I'm kinda curious what version they
use for that, as Chrome development for win7 stopped some
time ago.
Paul
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer)
|
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer)
|
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer)
|
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer)
|
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer)
|
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer)
|
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer) >> |
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
I saved the links you gave for the fan controllers but I wouldn't
know how to connect them or how to use them.
I'd prefer to add another fan...
Is there no other way to fix this? Am I going to fry my computers?
Could I mount a fan on the grill behind the other fan in the 780 so
they are blowing in the same direction?
https://postimg.cc/CzzMDNJn
Is it possible to mount a fan on a PCI card for the 8500?
https://postimg.cc/7b7v3zDZ
In any case the computers 'seem' OK,.. both are dead silent and
just hummming along but now I'm worried.
Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer) >> |
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
I assume the 8500 is similar.
https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3
https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R
https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j
https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf
https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV
https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj
https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV
https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL
https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx
https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh
https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer) >> |
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
bad news,.. I did another HD-Tune and it went up to 107!!
Am I going to end up frying my computers? I hope not after
all the money and work we put into them.
I'm really worried,....
Robert
On Wed, 4/9/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer)
|
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
I assume the 8500 is similar.
https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3
https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R
https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j
https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf
https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV
https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj
https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV
https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL
https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx
https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh
https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR
Robert
On the 780, in power management, there is a "fan control override".
That just makes the blower on the 780, go to full power,
which is hardly useful. You would assert "fan control override"...
if you had Windows software to control the fan.
You should visit the XPS 8500 BIOS and see if there
are any signs of intelligent life in there. I agree with
your guess that there isn't anything in there.
I did find one Windows fancontrol.exe program, but the
author of it does not list which SuperIO it works with,
and he claims he hasn't added any controllers to the list
and the program is mainly a GUI for setting up a fan. With
the SMSC that other programs cannot control, I can't see
this even being worth testing. Unless someone makes a brash
claim they have discovered a way to control a lot more of
them, the SMSC is going to remain off limits. The hardware
to control a fan, is undoubtedly in there, just no driver
to get to it.
Dell offers fan control software for their laptops, but
not for desktops. BIOS control would have worked... if Dell
had put a "hardware monitor" page in the BIOS. My desktops
here, all have BIOS level control of the automatic fan
speed adjustments.
Paul
On Wed, 4/9/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer)
|
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
I assume the 8500 is similar.
https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3
https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R
https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j
https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf
https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV
https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj
https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV
https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL
https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx
https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh
https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR
Robert
On the 780, in power management, there is a "fan control override".
That just makes the blower on the 780, go to full power,
which is hardly useful. You would assert "fan control override"...
if you had Windows software to control the fan.
You should visit the XPS 8500 BIOS and see if there
are any signs of intelligent life in there. I agree with
your guess that there isn't anything in there.
I did find one Windows fancontrol.exe program, but the
author of it does not list which SuperIO it works with,
and he claims he hasn't added any controllers to the list
and the program is mainly a GUI for setting up a fan. With
the SMSC that other programs cannot control, I can't see
this even being worth testing. Unless someone makes a brash
claim they have discovered a way to control a lot more of
them, the SMSC is going to remain off limits. The hardware
to control a fan, is undoubtedly in there, just no driver
to get to it.
Dell offers fan control software for their laptops, but
not for desktops. BIOS control would have worked... if Dell
had put a "hardware monitor" page in the BIOS. My desktops
here, all have BIOS level control of the automatic fan
speed adjustments.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer) >> |
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
I did more HD-Tune's and the temp wet back down to 96 then
98. So it seems it fluctuating between 96-107 degrees. It seems
high to me but the computers seem to be OK. Still, I'm worried.
Yet there's nothing I can do. I thought changing all the fans would
be a good thing and the computers would run cooler but its had the
opposite effect. Weird.
https://postimg.cc/SJBhsFj9
https://postimg.cc/WDjcGGGb
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 4/9/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer)
|
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
I assume the 8500 is similar.
https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3
https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R
https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j
https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf
https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV
https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj
https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV
https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL
https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx
https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh
https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR
Robert
On the 780, in power management, there is a "fan control override".
That just makes the blower on the 780, go to full power,
which is hardly useful. You would assert "fan control override"...
if you had Windows software to control the fan.
You should visit the XPS 8500 BIOS and see if there
are any signs of intelligent life in there. I agree with
your guess that there isn't anything in there.
I did find one Windows fancontrol.exe program, but the
author of it does not list which SuperIO it works with,
and he claims he hasn't added any controllers to the list
and the program is mainly a GUI for setting up a fan. With
the SMSC that other programs cannot control, I can't see
this even being worth testing. Unless someone makes a brash
claim they have discovered a way to control a lot more of
them, the SMSC is going to remain off limits. The hardware
to control a fan, is undoubtedly in there, just no driver
to get to it.
Dell offers fan control software for their laptops, but
not for desktops. BIOS control would have worked... if Dell
had put a "hardware monitor" page in the BIOS. My desktops
here, all have BIOS level control of the automatic fan
speed adjustments.
Paul
Couldn't we use something like this for
the 8500 and 780 to cool them?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162860535920
Robert
On Wed, 4/9/2025 8:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 4/9/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed, >>>>> and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer)
|
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
I assume the 8500 is similar.
https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3
https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R
https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j
https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf
https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV
https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj
https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV
https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL
https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx
https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh
https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR
Robert
On the 780, in power management, there is a "fan control override".
That just makes the blower on the 780, go to full power,
which is hardly useful. You would assert "fan control override"...
if you had Windows software to control the fan.
You should visit the XPS 8500 BIOS and see if there
are any signs of intelligent life in there. I agree with
your guess that there isn't anything in there.
I did find one Windows fancontrol.exe program, but the
author of it does not list which SuperIO it works with,
and he claims he hasn't added any controllers to the list
and the program is mainly a GUI for setting up a fan. With
the SMSC that other programs cannot control, I can't see
this even being worth testing. Unless someone makes a brash
claim they have discovered a way to control a lot more of
them, the SMSC is going to remain off limits. The hardware
to control a fan, is undoubtedly in there, just no driver
to get to it.
Dell offers fan control software for their laptops, but
not for desktops. BIOS control would have worked... if Dell
had put a "hardware monitor" page in the BIOS. My desktops
here, all have BIOS level control of the automatic fan
speed adjustments.
Paul
Couldn't we use something like this for
the 8500 and 780 to cool them?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162860535920
Robert
I would agree that moves air around, but the
hard drive would have to be mounted next to
that thing, for that to work really well.
The hard drive has to be, at least somewhat
securely mounted. And it has to be removable,
when you want to remove it.
It could be put in the spare optical drive bay
for example, but there is no air movement
in there either. You have to take
the (breakaway) metal plate off the bay, to get
air movement. And exactly how much air pressure
will there be, when the other vents on the PC,
steal all the air pressure ? Still, not a lot of
air movement.
*******
On the 780, I have a *suspicion*, that if you
move the tray down to the lower slot, and use the
bottom SATA connector on the two connector power
cable, the drive will be a tiny bit cooler
in that spot. This assumes only one of the two
bays is in usage, and currently the top bay is
being used. The bottom bay (that is facing you
when the side panel comes off), has two slots,
and the bottom slot, by itself, should be a tiny bit cooler.
On the next restart, you will need to enter the BIOS and
switch on whatever SATA data cable the thing is using
at that point. If you have two SATA cables for that
bay, one aligns better than the other, and that is
the cable that needs to be switched on in the BIOS
so it boots.
Paul
On Wed, 4/9/2025 8:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 4/9/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed, >>>>> and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer)
|
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
I assume the 8500 is similar.
https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3
https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R
https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j
https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf
https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV
https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj
https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV
https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL
https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx
https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh
https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR
Robert
On the 780, in power management, there is a "fan control override".
That just makes the blower on the 780, go to full power,
which is hardly useful. You would assert "fan control override"...
if you had Windows software to control the fan.
You should visit the XPS 8500 BIOS and see if there
are any signs of intelligent life in there. I agree with
your guess that there isn't anything in there.
I did find one Windows fancontrol.exe program, but the
author of it does not list which SuperIO it works with,
and he claims he hasn't added any controllers to the list
and the program is mainly a GUI for setting up a fan. With
the SMSC that other programs cannot control, I can't see
this even being worth testing. Unless someone makes a brash
claim they have discovered a way to control a lot more of
them, the SMSC is going to remain off limits. The hardware
to control a fan, is undoubtedly in there, just no driver
to get to it.
Dell offers fan control software for their laptops, but
not for desktops. BIOS control would have worked... if Dell
had put a "hardware monitor" page in the BIOS. My desktops
here, all have BIOS level control of the automatic fan
speed adjustments.
Paul
Couldn't we use something like this for
the 8500 and 780 to cool them?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162860535920
Robert
I would agree that moves air around, but the
hard drive would have to be mounted next to
that thing, for that to work really well.
The hard drive has to be, at least somewhat
securely mounted. And it has to be removable,
when you want to remove it.
It could be put in the spare optical drive bay
for example, but there is no air movement
in there either. You have to take
the (breakaway) metal plate off the bay, to get
air movement. And exactly how much air pressure
will there be, when the other vents on the PC,
steal all the air pressure ? Still, not a lot of
air movement.
*******
On the 780, I have a *suspicion*, that if you
move the tray down to the lower slot, and use the
bottom SATA connector on the two connector power
cable, the drive will be a tiny bit cooler
in that spot. This assumes only one of the two
bays is in usage, and currently the top bay is
being used. The bottom bay (that is facing you
when the side panel comes off), has two slots,
and the bottom slot, by itself, should be a tiny bit cooler.
On the next restart, you will need to enter the BIOS and
switch on whatever SATA data cable the thing is using
at that point. If you have two SATA cables for that
bay, one aligns better than the other, and that is
the cable that needs to be switched on in the BIOS
so it boots.
Paul
On Wed, 4/9/2025 8:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 4/9/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed, >>>>> and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer)
|
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
I assume the 8500 is similar.
https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3
https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R
https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j
https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf
https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV
https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj
https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV
https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL
https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx
https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh
https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR
Robert
On the 780, in power management, there is a "fan control override".
That just makes the blower on the 780, go to full power,
which is hardly useful. You would assert "fan control override"...
if you had Windows software to control the fan.
You should visit the XPS 8500 BIOS and see if there
are any signs of intelligent life in there. I agree with
your guess that there isn't anything in there.
I did find one Windows fancontrol.exe program, but the
author of it does not list which SuperIO it works with,
and he claims he hasn't added any controllers to the list
and the program is mainly a GUI for setting up a fan. With
the SMSC that other programs cannot control, I can't see
this even being worth testing. Unless someone makes a brash
claim they have discovered a way to control a lot more of
them, the SMSC is going to remain off limits. The hardware
to control a fan, is undoubtedly in there, just no driver
to get to it.
Dell offers fan control software for their laptops, but
not for desktops. BIOS control would have worked... if Dell
had put a "hardware monitor" page in the BIOS. My desktops
here, all have BIOS level control of the automatic fan
speed adjustments.
Paul
Couldn't we use something like this for
the 8500 and 780 to cool them?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162860535920
Robert
I would agree that moves air around, but the
hard drive would have to be mounted next to
that thing, for that to work really well.
The hard drive has to be, at least somewhat
securely mounted. And it has to be removable,
when you want to remove it.
It could be put in the spare optical drive bay
for example, but there is no air movement
in there either. You have to take
the (breakaway) metal plate off the bay, to get
air movement. And exactly how much air pressure
will there be, when the other vents on the PC,
steal all the air pressure ? Still, not a lot of
air movement.
*******
On the 780, I have a *suspicion*, that if you
move the tray down to the lower slot, and use the
bottom SATA connector on the two connector power
cable, the drive will be a tiny bit cooler
in that spot. This assumes only one of the two
bays is in usage, and currently the top bay is
being used. The bottom bay (that is facing you
when the side panel comes off), has two slots,
and the bottom slot, by itself, should be a tiny bit cooler.
On the next restart, you will need to enter the BIOS and
switch on whatever SATA data cable the thing is using
at that point. If you have two SATA cables for that
bay, one aligns better than the other, and that is
the cable that needs to be switched on in the BIOS
so it boots.
Paul
On Wed, 4/9/2025 8:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 4/9/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Version 109.0.25993.120
Robert
April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42
The AVast one is a bit behind.
Paul
The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
with no problem at all.
https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T
However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
don't understand? I did (3 passes).
https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B
https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw
https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5
https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v
https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC
https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc
https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35
I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?
Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent
Thanks,
Robert
That is automatic fan control for you.
The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed, >>>>> and the hard drive temperature has risen.
The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.
The Dell 780 BIOS has:
1) No monitored conditions listed.
2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.
Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/
I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
any info on it.
For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
(like the 8500 situation).
(RPM)
Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
(potentiometer)
|
|
+----> one wire RPM connector goes to
the fan header on the motherboard
See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
equivalent, to fix the 8500.
https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0
*******
The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".
This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
function.
https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH
This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
the correct voltage was on the output.
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K
The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.
Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
enough air moving through the PSU.
Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.
Paul
I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
I assume the 8500 is similar.
https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3
https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R
https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j
https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf
https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV
https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj
https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV
https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL
https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx
https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh
https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR
Robert
On the 780, in power management, there is a "fan control override".
That just makes the blower on the 780, go to full power,
which is hardly useful. You would assert "fan control override"...
if you had Windows software to control the fan.
You should visit the XPS 8500 BIOS and see if there
are any signs of intelligent life in there. I agree with
your guess that there isn't anything in there.
I did find one Windows fancontrol.exe program, but the
author of it does not list which SuperIO it works with,
and he claims he hasn't added any controllers to the list
and the program is mainly a GUI for setting up a fan. With
the SMSC that other programs cannot control, I can't see
this even being worth testing. Unless someone makes a brash
claim they have discovered a way to control a lot more of
them, the SMSC is going to remain off limits. The hardware
to control a fan, is undoubtedly in there, just no driver
to get to it.
Dell offers fan control software for their laptops, but
not for desktops. BIOS control would have worked... if Dell
had put a "hardware monitor" page in the BIOS. My desktops
here, all have BIOS level control of the automatic fan
speed adjustments.
Paul
Couldn't we use something like this for
the 8500 and 780 to cool them?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162860535920
Robert
I would agree that moves air around, but the
hard drive would have to be mounted next to
that thing, for that to work really well.
The hard drive has to be, at least somewhat
securely mounted. And it has to be removable,
when you want to remove it.
It could be put in the spare optical drive bay
for example, but there is no air movement
in there either. You have to take
the (breakaway) metal plate off the bay, to get
air movement. And exactly how much air pressure
will there be, when the other vents on the PC,
steal all the air pressure ? Still, not a lot of
air movement.
*******
On the 780, I have a *suspicion*, that if you
move the tray down to the lower slot, and use the
bottom SATA connector on the two connector power
cable, the drive will be a tiny bit cooler
in that spot. This assumes only one of the two
bays is in usage, and currently the top bay is
being used. The bottom bay (that is facing you
when the side panel comes off), has two slots,
and the bottom slot, by itself, should be a tiny bit cooler.
On the next restart, you will need to enter the BIOS and
switch on whatever SATA data cable the thing is using
at that point. If you have two SATA cables for that
bay, one aligns better than the other, and that is
the cable that needs to be switched on in the BIOS
so it boots.
Paul
I removed the Win10 hd from both computers.
I then did a HD-Tune for the 8500 and the temp
dropped to 89! then rose to 91 then 93 but still
better than before.
https://postimg.cc/7fqgggSK
https://postimg.cc/GTKTM5vq
https://postimg.cc/MnvtQ78h
Robert
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
On Thu, 4/10/2025 9:40 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I removed the Win10 hd from both computers.
I then did a HD-Tune for the 8500 and the temp
dropped to 89! then rose to 91 then 93 but still
better than before.
https://postimg.cc/7fqgggSK
https://postimg.cc/GTKTM5vq
https://postimg.cc/MnvtQ78h
Robert
There is a possibility of a little air movement
through the 780 drive cage, with only one drive present.
I think the lower bay, is the better of the two bays
when only one drive is present.
The thing is, the 780 does have holes in the drive cage
area, but the holes are mostly "decorative". There isn't
a continuous airflow path through the thing. That's part
of the problem. When both trays are present, the plastic
blocks various stuff.
I've purchased disk enclosures before, where the enclosure
comes with a 40mm (noisy) fan. The fan has a vent hole for
the fan itself. But the casing has no exhaust vent! This
means the fan can spin all it wants, and there is no path
for the air to go. Only something close to the swirling of
the fan, might get a tiny bit of cooling effect. Otherwise...
perfectly useless.
The 8500, you can mess around with the case fan a bit. run it
off a PWM controller for example.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
About $30 or so (Noctua are always expensive like that), and
it uses a SATA power cable (to run the chip making the PWM signal).
While the device claims to have a "3 amp limit", that's a reference
to the SATA power connector +12V rating. That thing isn't actually
a power control device, it just makes a control signal (digital)
to feed a four pin "PWM" fan. I don't know if the 8500 uses a
four pin cable for the case fan. If the Dell XPS 8500 case fan
is a three pin, you could replace it with the fan below which is
a four pin, and would work with the Noctua four pin controller.
I have at least $500 worth of Noctua merch in the house, they're
a curse on price :-)
You would check the 8500 and see if the fan is 120mm or not.
This fan, for $11.98, is a 56.3 CFM fan, and using the Noctua
controller you would set it to about half speed.
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
But for the 780, controlling the main fan with the Noctua is technically feasible, but the connector situation is a mess. You can't interfere with
the RPM signal, as the 780 would likely shut off the PC if the
fan appeared to be stalled (because the RPM signal was disconnected).
If the PWM becomes disconnected, the fan goes to full speed. If the
Noctua PWM signal is connected to the PWM wire, then the thing
is under control and can be dialed to a more useful level.
Since the 780 is so half baked, the discussions about it may refer to
the RPM signal, but it might be the alternate design type, which is
the RPM signal is a "stall" signal, and the logic level (0 or 1 level) indicates whether fan is "stalled" or "turning". Computers don't
usually do their fans that way, but it is one of the options
available from the fan companies. Considering how that fan works,
the low low rotational speed most of the time, the stall type signal
would be more practical for Dell to use.
Paul
On Thu, 4/10/2025 9:40 AM, RobnCA wrote:
I removed the Win10 hd from both computers.
I then did a HD-Tune for the 8500 and the temp
dropped to 89! then rose to 91 then 93 but still
better than before.
https://postimg.cc/7fqgggSK
https://postimg.cc/GTKTM5vq
https://postimg.cc/MnvtQ78h
Robert
There is a possibility of a little air movement
through the 780 drive cage, with only one drive present.
I think the lower bay, is the better of the two bays
when only one drive is present.
The thing is, the 780 does have holes in the drive cage
area, but the holes are mostly "decorative". There isn't
a continuous airflow path through the thing. That's part
of the problem. When both trays are present, the plastic
blocks various stuff.
I've purchased disk enclosures before, where the enclosure
comes with a 40mm (noisy) fan. The fan has a vent hole for
the fan itself. But the casing has no exhaust vent! This
means the fan can spin all it wants, and there is no path
for the air to go. Only something close to the swirling of
the fan, might get a tiny bit of cooling effect. Otherwise...
perfectly useless.
The 8500, you can mess around with the case fan a bit. run it
off a PWM controller for example.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
About $30 or so (Noctua are always expensive like that), and
it uses a SATA power cable (to run the chip making the PWM signal).
While the device claims to have a "3 amp limit", that's a reference
to the SATA power connector +12V rating. That thing isn't actually
a power control device, it just makes a control signal (digital)
to feed a four pin "PWM" fan. I don't know if the 8500 uses a
four pin cable for the case fan. If the Dell XPS 8500 case fan
is a three pin, you could replace it with the fan below which is
a four pin, and would work with the Noctua four pin controller.
I have at least $500 worth of Noctua merch in the house, they're
a curse on price :-)
You would check the 8500 and see if the fan is 120mm or not.
This fan, for $11.98, is a 56.3 CFM fan, and using the Noctua
controller you would set it to about half speed.
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
But for the 780, controlling the main fan with the Noctua is technically feasible, but the connector situation is a mess. You can't interfere with
the RPM signal, as the 780 would likely shut off the PC if the
fan appeared to be stalled (because the RPM signal was disconnected).
If the PWM becomes disconnected, the fan goes to full speed. If the
Noctua PWM signal is connected to the PWM wire, then the thing
is under control and can be dialed to a more useful level.
Since the 780 is so half baked, the discussions about it may refer to
the RPM signal, but it might be the alternate design type, which is
the RPM signal is a "stall" signal, and the logic level (0 or 1 level) indicates whether fan is "stalled" or "turning". Computers don't
usually do their fans that way, but it is one of the options
available from the fan companies. Considering how that fan works,
the low low rotational speed most of the time, the stall type signal
would be more practical for Dell to use.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type
fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color
1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green
2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua,
then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type
fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color
1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green >> 2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua,
then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type
fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color >>> 1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green >>> 2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua,
then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
The Noctua is this bit.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
as a purchase).
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.
You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA,
or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).
Paul
On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type
fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color >>> 1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green >>> 2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua,
then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
The Noctua is this bit.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
as a purchase).
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.
You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA,
or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).
Paul
On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type
fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color >>> 1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green >>> 2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua,
then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
The Noctua is this bit.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
as a purchase).
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.
You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA,
or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).
Paul
On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type
fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color >>> 1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green >>> 2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua,
then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
The Noctua is this bit.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
as a purchase).
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.
You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA,
or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type
fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color >>>> 1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green
2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua,
then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
The Noctua is this bit.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
as a purchase).
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works
with Noctua thing)
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215 >>
Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.
You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA,
or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work
with).
Paul
The 8500 hung up and I had to press the start button
again to turn it off/on but this time when it came back
up after the unexpected shutdown and offering me all
the options to reboot and I let it boot normally it went
into chkdsk on it's own so I let it.
https://postimg.cc/PpHMygb3
Afterwards the 8500 came up normally. The 8500 is 96
degrees,. I'm wondering if I'm loosing a hard drive or
could it be the monitor that's going?
I can't believe this is happening,.
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type
fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color >>>> 1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green
2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua,
then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
The Noctua is this bit.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
as a purchase).
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.
You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA,
or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with). >>
Paul
I bought a 3 way molex cable,.. I hope I picked the right one.
https://postimg.cc/jW4xwfMW
Is the controller supposed to be mounted inside or outside of
the computer?
Thanks,.
Robert
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type
fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color >>>>> 1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green
2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua,
then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
The Noctua is this bit.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
as a purchase).
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.
You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).
Paul
The 8500 hung up and I had to press the start button
again to turn it off/on but this time when it came back
up after the unexpected shutdown and offering me all
the options to reboot and I let it boot normally it went
into chkdsk on it's own so I let it.
https://postimg.cc/PpHMygb3
Afterwards the 8500 came up normally. The 8500 is 96
degrees,. I'm wondering if I'm loosing a hard drive or
could it be the monitor that's going?
I can't believe this is happening,.
Robert
A couple of non related things,...
Seamonkey no longer shows a warning I'm using a older
version
https://postimg.cc/sB34p2BN
Also, lately when I use my USB adaptor the 8500 doesn't
recognize it on either port. Not always, but it does occur.
Should I get a new adaptor?
This concerns me because I use it allot.
Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type
fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color >>>> 1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green
2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua,
then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
The Noctua is this bit.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
as a purchase).
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.
You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA,
or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with). >>
Paul
I ordered the controller and fan from Newegg ...
Here's the inside of the 8500
https://postimg.cc/30Wwmwqg
and some connectors
https://postimg.cc/QVMCR6MH
I think I have some molex connectors from the
last time we did this on the 780 for the PCI
card. Yep,.. I checked and I do have (3) molex
cables but no Y connectors.
Robert
On Mon, 4/14/2025 5:56 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type
fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color >>>>> 1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green
2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua,
then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
The Noctua is this bit.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
as a purchase).
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.
You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).
Paul
I bought a 3 way molex cable,.. I hope I picked the right one.
https://postimg.cc/jW4xwfMW
Is the controller supposed to be mounted inside or outside of
the computer?
Thanks,.
Robert
Those are handy to have, even if it does not work out.
I have a ton of those.
It's up to you, where you put the controller.
To place it outside the case, will take more cable
length than the goods you have ordered.
If you could get a SATA power connection to lay outside
the case, then using the Noctua (SATA power) and just
the four pin fan male on the Noctua body, you could test the
new fan outside the case. The existing cooling fan could be
left inside the 8500 while you did the test. That's a way of
using the 8500 as a power supply. The SATA power would be passed
through one of the blank PCI slot covers.
By testing outside the case, and with some source of +12V and GND,
you can dial the knob for a representative value (about the same airflow
as the 8500 uses right now).
That's not very scientific, but it's the best I can do unless
the project suddenly sprouts gobs of wire length :-) It could
be placed outside the case, with sufficient wire spliced in.
Or, extenders used. (They don't make really long extenders,
these merchants are cheap bastards.) One of the reasons I end
up making the occasional cable, is I get the length I want.
You could extend the rotary knob, using a shaft extension, and
put a hole in the side of the 8500, but that's silly and not
practical. Various shaft extension methods have been used in
stereo equipment in the past.
*******
I do not know, what your Youtube event means. Normally, screens
turn black, on a driver failure. The OS can do a driver reset,
if the OS has a watchdog timer for command execution. It should
take roughly a second for the screen to recover, if it's a driver
issue.
The humming could be the sound of a video card fan, running at
the wrong speed. On older fans, the driver controls the fan.
On more modern cards with closed loop feedback, the fan speed
might be defined by the video card itself, which makes accidental
"zero speed" commands to a fan, a thing of the past.
Your symptoms do not match anything in my experience. You could look
in Eventvwr.msc, but I don't know exactly which area that would be
in as a log event.
The screen could also go black, if the GPU just died, but that's
not in evidence in your description. That means it could be
a driver issue, but it really should have recovered on its own.
I've had flaky stuff here, that repeatedly did black screens
for 1 second outages. It happens.
And while the machine could have run out of RAM, what are
the odds of that happening ? Maybe leave a Task Manager
open on the side of the screen, and see if memory consumption
is increasing radically during a Youtube session. I could understand
such a symptom on Windows 10, but Windows 7 should not do that.
During a session, you can use alt-tab if you want to switch views.
Keep pressing the tab key, until the selector comes back to the
original position.
Paul
On Tue, 4/15/2025 4:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type >>>>>> fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right. >>>>>> The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color >>>>>> 1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green
2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua, >>>>>> then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
The Noctua is this bit.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
as a purchase).
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.
You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).
Paul
The 8500 hung up and I had to press the start button
again to turn it off/on but this time when it came back
up after the unexpected shutdown and offering me all
the options to reboot and I let it boot normally it went
into chkdsk on it's own so I let it.
https://postimg.cc/PpHMygb3
Afterwards the 8500 came up normally. The 8500 is 96
degrees,. I'm wondering if I'm loosing a hard drive or
could it be the monitor that's going?
I can't believe this is happening,.
Robert
A couple of non related things,...
Seamonkey no longer shows a warning I'm using a older
version
https://postimg.cc/sB34p2BN
Also, lately when I use my USB adaptor the 8500 doesn't
recognize it on either port. Not always, but it does occur.
Should I get a new adaptor?
This concerns me because I use it allot.
Thanks,
Robert
The Seamonkey "help" should have version info. I would guess
that the version -20 is in there now.
Does the power supply fan make a funny noise ? Might it
be a power supply issue ?
There is a limit to how much +5VSB you can draw, so if you're
charging an iPhone off the 8500 ports, that might be too much
electrical load for it.
Overloading +5VSB, will make the machine shut off, not hang.
Make sure the torsion springs on the Northbridge heatsink
are still attached to the motherboard. That's just to verify
the Northbridge is getting cooled.
And this was going on, before the latest maintenance, so this
is not a brand new problem, it's just getting worse.
Paul
On Mon, 4/14/2025 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:I see a couple free SATA connectors.
On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type
fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color >>>>> 1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green
2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua,
then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
The Noctua is this bit.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
as a purchase).
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.
You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).
Paul
I ordered the controller and fan from Newegg ...
Here's the inside of the 8500
https://postimg.cc/30Wwmwqg
and some connectors
https://postimg.cc/QVMCR6MH
I think I have some molex connectors from the
last time we did this on the 780 for the PCI
card. Yep,.. I checked and I do have (3) molex
cables but no Y connectors.
Robert
The Noctus could plug into one of those.
The SATA have five wires, the yellow is +12V, the
orange is +3.3V .
From where the Noctua would plug into one of those, to
the fan location on the 8500 back panel, might be nine inches of
wire or so. You would check that the fan has minimum nine
inches of wire. As I learned at my computer store,
extenders for fan wire, aren't necessarily a stock item.
A product that would have worked, was marked as out of stock
and can't reorder. The product which replaced it, had
a wiring error. I drove back to the store and pointed out
what was wrong with the product, without that ruining
anything on my system. That doesn't happen very often,
because usually the people who make cables, know what the
signals are for.
The only other detail to check, is whether the cooling
fan is the right size to replace the 8500 one. You would check
the square side of the fan, and see which standard dimension
it is, and double check that's the right one.
There is really no standard, as to where on a motherboard,
a fan header will show up. Some of them are positioned,
such that the fan needs a pretty long cable to work. Others
are closer to where they are supposed to be. (The one for
the cooling fan on the back of the computer, the exhaust fan,
usually the header for that is right next to the CPU socket,
and on the side nearest the cooling fan.
The Noctua may have a scheme for getting the RPM signal,
to go back to the original fan header.
https://noctua.at/pub/media/blfa_files/manual/noctua_na_fc1_manual_en.pdf
[Item 8] NA-AC4
The bottom item is the SATA power, which is picking off +12V and GND,
and those are (eventually) forwarded to the male fan connector (which is
not shown in that particular Noctua PDF diagram)
The middle item, plugs into the Noctua body.
The top item, plugs into the male fan header on the 8500.
The purpose is to return the RPM signal from the fan, back
to the motherboard. I have some other kit like this sort of thing,
and normally they can achieve what is necessary, with just one wire
plus the fan connector for the header. The ground reference isn't needed, because the ground was established by the SATA power connector.
8500FanHeader -
(RPM signal) \ [1] [2]
\_____ Noctua --- male4 ---------------- 4pinFan-with-RPM-PWM-pins
/
/
Power ----- (I rotated the middle connector towards the Noctua in this diagram)
(The Noctua controller has two ends, one connector on each end)
The 8500FanHeader could be three pin or four pin (the 8500 fan is plugged into it right now).
The Noctua four pin connector can mate with either type. The alignment tab is a standard width, pin 1 lines up with pin 1 and the tab slides into its mate. If the 8500FanHeader is a three pin male, then one of the positions on the Noctua 4 pin female,
will hang off the side of the motherboard header. This is not usually a problem
(they shouldn't be putting electrolytic cans next to those connectors).
In the diagram, I put [1] and [2}. These represent cable measurement estimates
you need to make, with respect to the "spare" SATA you use for power. The RPM signal has to reach the fan header, so the BIOS won't trip out on "fan speed too low". And the Noctua has to be placed close enough to the new case
fan, so the cable length will be sufficient.
If [2] is too short, the Noctua kit has [Item 9], NA-SC1 cable. While it has three ends on it, you would use only one of those and connect the new rear fan
to it. But you would only use that cable, if the fan cable was too short. That
functions as an extender for the kit. Now, if you do use NA-SC1 cable, note that the three heads are not the same. One head should have four connections, the other two heads have three connections. The head with the four connections is the one to use with your new rear fan. The four connections include RPM and PWM. The other two connectors, the RPM connections must
be missing (RPM signals cannot be combined). Normally that cable is used
for three fans on a radiator cooler hardware, and only one of the three
fans is monitored to "prove it is spinning". The other two fans cannot
be monitored. And you won't be using the un-monitored two heads for your project.
I have a "hub board" on the big computer, and like the three pin extender cable,
the hub board sends the PWM signal to *five* fans at the same time. And only one of the fans can be monitored, and the others are "good luck and safe journey"
items :-) We don't know whether they are running or not.
So while your three-headed cable is cool and all, it's not always the very best design choice. For that, you'd need three, separate, fan extender cables. And those are like hens-teeth. I normally make those myself,
fan cables, but the electronics store closed, and there goes my
easy source of fan shrouds and gold plated pins. And it doesn't
make sense to spend $20 on courier fees, for three dollars worth
of fan goodies. A lot of the etailers, do not accept postal delivery
as an option.
Paul
On Tue, 4/15/2025 4:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type >>>>>> fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right. >>>>>> The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color >>>>>> 1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green
2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua, >>>>>> then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
The Noctua is this bit.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
as a purchase).
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.
You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).
Paul
The 8500 hung up and I had to press the start button
again to turn it off/on but this time when it came back
up after the unexpected shutdown and offering me all
the options to reboot and I let it boot normally it went
into chkdsk on it's own so I let it.
https://postimg.cc/PpHMygb3
Afterwards the 8500 came up normally. The 8500 is 96
degrees,. I'm wondering if I'm loosing a hard drive or
could it be the monitor that's going?
I can't believe this is happening,.
Robert
A couple of non related things,...
Seamonkey no longer shows a warning I'm using a older
version
https://postimg.cc/sB34p2BN
Also, lately when I use my USB adaptor the 8500 doesn't
recognize it on either port. Not always, but it does occur.
Should I get a new adaptor?
This concerns me because I use it allot.
Thanks,
Robert
The Seamonkey "help" should have version info. I would guess
that the version -20 is in there now.
Does the power supply fan make a funny noise ? Might it
be a power supply issue ?
There is a limit to how much +5VSB you can draw, so if you're
charging an iPhone off the 8500 ports, that might be too much
electrical load for it.
Overloading +5VSB, will make the machine shut off, not hang.
Make sure the torsion springs on the Northbridge heatsink
are still attached to the motherboard. That's just to verify
the Northbridge is getting cooled.
And this was going on, before the latest maintenance, so this
is not a brand new problem, it's just getting worse.
Paul
On Tue, 4/15/2025 4:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type >>>>>> fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right. >>>>>> The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color >>>>>> 1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green
2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua, >>>>>> then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
The Noctua is this bit.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
as a purchase).
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.
You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).
Paul
The 8500 hung up and I had to press the start button
again to turn it off/on but this time when it came back
up after the unexpected shutdown and offering me all
the options to reboot and I let it boot normally it went
into chkdsk on it's own so I let it.
https://postimg.cc/PpHMygb3
Afterwards the 8500 came up normally. The 8500 is 96
degrees,. I'm wondering if I'm loosing a hard drive or
could it be the monitor that's going?
I can't believe this is happening,.
Robert
A couple of non related things,...
Seamonkey no longer shows a warning I'm using a older
version
https://postimg.cc/sB34p2BN
Also, lately when I use my USB adaptor the 8500 doesn't
recognize it on either port. Not always, but it does occur.
Should I get a new adaptor?
This concerns me because I use it allot.
Thanks,
Robert
The Seamonkey "help" should have version info. I would guess
that the version -20 is in there now.
Does the power supply fan make a funny noise ? Might it
be a power supply issue ?
There is a limit to how much +5VSB you can draw, so if you're
charging an iPhone off the 8500 ports, that might be too much
electrical load for it.
Overloading +5VSB, will make the machine shut off, not hang.
Make sure the torsion springs on the Northbridge heatsink
are still attached to the motherboard. That's just to verify
the Northbridge is getting cooled.
And this was going on, before the latest maintenance, so this
is not a brand new problem, it's just getting worse.
Paul
On Tue, 4/15/2025 4:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type >>>>>> fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right. >>>>>> The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color >>>>>> 1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green
2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua, >>>>>> then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
The Noctua is this bit.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
as a purchase).
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.
You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).
Paul
The 8500 hung up and I had to press the start button
again to turn it off/on but this time when it came back
up after the unexpected shutdown and offering me all
the options to reboot and I let it boot normally it went
into chkdsk on it's own so I let it.
https://postimg.cc/PpHMygb3
Afterwards the 8500 came up normally. The 8500 is 96
degrees,. I'm wondering if I'm loosing a hard drive or
could it be the monitor that's going?
I can't believe this is happening,.
Robert
A couple of non related things,...
Seamonkey no longer shows a warning I'm using a older
version
https://postimg.cc/sB34p2BN
Also, lately when I use my USB adaptor the 8500 doesn't
recognize it on either port. Not always, but it does occur.
Should I get a new adaptor?
This concerns me because I use it allot.
Thanks,
Robert
The Seamonkey "help" should have version info. I would guess
that the version -20 is in there now.
Does the power supply fan make a funny noise ? Might it
be a power supply issue ?
There is a limit to how much +5VSB you can draw, so if you're
charging an iPhone off the 8500 ports, that might be too much
electrical load for it.
Overloading +5VSB, will make the machine shut off, not hang.
Make sure the torsion springs on the Northbridge heatsink
are still attached to the motherboard. That's just to verify
the Northbridge is getting cooled.
And this was going on, before the latest maintenance, so this
is not a brand new problem, it's just getting worse.
Paul
I checked the 8500 computer
https://postimg.cc/G8Ht9zTz
https://postimg.cc/gXQJhRvp
https://postimg.cc/qzfqMsJX
these connectors are weird looking? I've never
seen any like these before?
https://postimg.cc/mPjgwKQ8
Also the Northridge heatsink on the 780
https://postimg.cc/tsB9PWjc
https://postimg.cc/QFd3XCTJ
https://postimg.cc/wtS8ckbw
Although I did ask if there was a way of cooling
the computers further I had no idea it would be
so involved. I'm just wondering if it's all worth
it and I don't want to mess up the 8500. Maybe
its better we leave it as is?
I think you'll agree that with cleaning with the
mini-vac, installing new fans and heatsink with
thermal paste and removing the Win 10 hd's that
the computers should be running better, cooler.
Perhaps they are,..they are dead silent,. and just
humming along. Maybe they usually run at high
temps? They've lasted me all these years with the
old fans and I've both hd's inside for some time.
Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/14/2025 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:I see a couple free SATA connectors.
On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
I had a problem on the 8500,..
for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
would open up,..nothing,..
Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
on the 8500 to load.
I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
still the same, nothing.
Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..
Robert
but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.
And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
storage space.
Paul
Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.
understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.
What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
removed the Win 10 hd's ?
Robert
I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
is missing.
But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
If the structural parts of it are removed (to
let air to pass), it will fall over.
And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.
If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.
And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type >>>>>> fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
to use a connector no one else uses.
The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right. >>>>>> The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.
https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d
Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color >>>>>> 1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green
2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
3 GND Black 1 Black
4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
5 Key (N/C/)
And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
housing does not get hot.
But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
any air movement going.
The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua, >>>>>> then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.
Paul
I have to say that the computer cases have allot
to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
into consideration when designing them? They should
mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.
We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
so its not being used much.
As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.
Robert
The Noctua is this bit.
https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014
This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
as a purchase).
Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)
https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215
Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.
You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).
Paul
I ordered the controller and fan from Newegg ...
Here's the inside of the 8500
https://postimg.cc/30Wwmwqg
and some connectors
https://postimg.cc/QVMCR6MH
I think I have some molex connectors from the
last time we did this on the 780 for the PCI
card. Yep,.. I checked and I do have (3) molex
cables but no Y connectors.
Robert
The Noctus could plug into one of those.
The SATA have five wires, the yellow is +12V, the
orange is +3.3V .
From where the Noctua would plug into one of those, to
the fan location on the 8500 back panel, might be nine inches of
wire or so. You would check that the fan has minimum nine
inches of wire. As I learned at my computer store,
extenders for fan wire, aren't necessarily a stock item.
A product that would have worked, was marked as out of stock
and can't reorder. The product which replaced it, had
a wiring error. I drove back to the store and pointed out
what was wrong with the product, without that ruining
anything on my system. That doesn't happen very often,
because usually the people who make cables, know what the
signals are for.
The only other detail to check, is whether the cooling
fan is the right size to replace the 8500 one. You would check
the square side of the fan, and see which standard dimension
it is, and double check that's the right one.
There is really no standard, as to where on a motherboard,
a fan header will show up. Some of them are positioned,
such that the fan needs a pretty long cable to work. Others
are closer to where they are supposed to be. (The one for
the cooling fan on the back of the computer, the exhaust fan,
usually the header for that is right next to the CPU socket,
and on the side nearest the cooling fan.
The Noctua may have a scheme for getting the RPM signal,
to go back to the original fan header.
https://noctua.at/pub/media/blfa_files/manual/noctua_na_fc1_manual_en.pdf
[Item 8] NA-AC4
The bottom item is the SATA power, which is picking off +12V and GND,
and those are (eventually) forwarded to the male fan connector (which is
not shown in that particular Noctua PDF diagram)
The middle item, plugs into the Noctua body.
The top item, plugs into the male fan header on the 8500.
The purpose is to return the RPM signal from the fan, back
to the motherboard. I have some other kit like this sort of thing,
and normally they can achieve what is necessary, with just one wire
plus the fan connector for the header. The ground reference isn't needed,
because the ground was established by the SATA power connector.
8500FanHeader -
(RPM signal) \ [1] [2]
\_____ Noctua --- male4 ---------------- 4pinFan-with-RPM-PWM-pins
/
/
Power ----- (I rotated the middle connector towards the Noctua in this diagram)
(The Noctua controller has two ends, one connector on each end)
The 8500FanHeader could be three pin or four pin (the 8500 fan is plugged
into it right now).
The Noctua four pin connector can mate with either type. The alignment tab is
a standard width, pin 1 lines up with pin 1 and the tab slides into its mate.
If the 8500FanHeader is a three pin male, then one of the positions on the Noctua 4 pin female,
will hang off the side of the motherboard header. This is not usually a problem
(they shouldn't be putting electrolytic cans next to those connectors).
In the diagram, I put [1] and [2}. These represent cable measurement estimates
you need to make, with respect to the "spare" SATA you use for power. The RPM
signal has to reach the fan header, so the BIOS won't trip out on "fan speed >> too low". And the Noctua has to be placed close enough to the new case
fan, so the cable length will be sufficient.
If [2] is too short, the Noctua kit has [Item 9], NA-SC1 cable. While it has >> three ends on it, you would use only one of those and connect the new rear fan
to it. But you would only use that cable, if the fan cable was too short. That
functions as an extender for the kit. Now, if you do use NA-SC1 cable, note >> that the three heads are not the same. One head should have four connections,
the other two heads have three connections. The head with the four
connections is the one to use with your new rear fan. The four connections >> include RPM and PWM. The other two connectors, the RPM connections must
be missing (RPM signals cannot be combined). Normally that cable is used
for three fans on a radiator cooler hardware, and only one of the three
fans is monitored to "prove it is spinning". The other two fans cannot
be monitored. And you won't be using the un-monitored two heads for your project.
I have a "hub board" on the big computer, and like the three pin extender cable,
the hub board sends the PWM signal to *five* fans at the same time. And only >> one of the fans can be monitored, and the others are "good luck and safe journey"
items :-) We don't know whether they are running or not.
So while your three-headed cable is cool and all, it's not always the very >> best design choice. For that, you'd need three, separate, fan extender
cables. And those are like hens-teeth. I normally make those myself,
fan cables, but the electronics store closed, and there goes my
easy source of fan shrouds and gold plated pins. And it doesn't
make sense to spend $20 on courier fees, for three dollars worth
of fan goodies. A lot of the etailers, do not accept postal delivery
as an option.
Paul
I'll check the wire length for 9 inches,.. and check the fan size.
I read the Noctura instructions, do you recommend setting it halfway (50%) and pressing the no stop?
I need to re-read your instructions,. I'm totally confused and looks
to be way more involved than I thought.
Robert
Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc. and
then store it in case I need it.
Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.
Of course, I don't have to buy one now...
I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
also.
I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
knock on wood.
Robert
I was just puttering online and did a search for 8500 XPS
computers on eBay,... there's quite a few. However I wouldn't
know what to look for ? Maybe we could get one as a backup for
the 8500? What do you think?
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=dell+8500+xps+computer&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2510209.m570.l1313
Robert
On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc. and
then store it in case I need it.
Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.
Of course, I don't have to buy one now...
I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
also.
I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
knock on wood.
Robert
It there is a functional 3-way catalytic converter,
it should pass. The engine has to be in pretty bad
shape, for a fail.
It's when you put in a straight pipe, remove the cat,
and race around town, if you go in for a smog then,
you're screwed. The cat makes a big difference.
You're more likely on a safety, to get dinged for
a poorly fitting gas cap (VOC, organic fumes). And
that check is easy, since it blows a code on the
dash if the cap is loose. I bought a brand new
gas cap at the dealer... and it didn't fit properly,
and it was purchased by the part number for the
VIN and everything. It wasn't like they "guessed"
at which cap to fit.
But our safety/smog program here has been cut back,
and the only way to get an actual smog printout, is
to go to a "speed shop". Regular mechanics no longer
have the machine for it, the smog check.
Paul
On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc. and
then store it in case I need it.
Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.
Of course, I don't have to buy one now...
I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
also.
I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
knock on wood.
Robert
It there is a functional 3-way catalytic converter,
it should pass. The engine has to be in pretty bad
shape, for a fail.
It's when you put in a straight pipe, remove the cat,
and race around town, if you go in for a smog then,
you're screwed. The cat makes a big difference.
You're more likely on a safety, to get dinged for
a poorly fitting gas cap (VOC, organic fumes). And
that check is easy, since it blows a code on the
dash if the cap is loose. I bought a brand new
gas cap at the dealer... and it didn't fit properly,
and it was purchased by the part number for the
VIN and everything. It wasn't like they "guessed"
at which cap to fit.
But our safety/smog program here has been cut back,
and the only way to get an actual smog printout, is
to go to a "speed shop". Regular mechanics no longer
have the machine for it, the smog check.
Paul
On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc. and
then store it in case I need it.
Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.
Of course, I don't have to buy one now...
I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
also.
I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
knock on wood.
Robert
It there is a functional 3-way catalytic converter,
it should pass. The engine has to be in pretty bad
shape, for a fail.
It's when you put in a straight pipe, remove the cat,
and race around town, if you go in for a smog then,
you're screwed. The cat makes a big difference.
You're more likely on a safety, to get dinged for
a poorly fitting gas cap (VOC, organic fumes). And
that check is easy, since it blows a code on the
dash if the cap is loose. I bought a brand new
gas cap at the dealer... and it didn't fit properly,
and it was purchased by the part number for the
VIN and everything. It wasn't like they "guessed"
at which cap to fit.
But our safety/smog program here has been cut back,
and the only way to get an actual smog printout, is
to go to a "speed shop". Regular mechanics no longer
have the machine for it, the smog check.
Paul
On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc. and
then store it in case I need it.
Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.
Of course, I don't have to buy one now...
I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
also.
I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
knock on wood.
Robert
It there is a functional 3-way catalytic converter,
it should pass. The engine has to be in pretty bad
shape, for a fail.
It's when you put in a straight pipe, remove the cat,
and race around town, if you go in for a smog then,
you're screwed. The cat makes a big difference.
You're more likely on a safety, to get dinged for
a poorly fitting gas cap (VOC, organic fumes). And
that check is easy, since it blows a code on the
dash if the cap is loose. I bought a brand new
gas cap at the dealer... and it didn't fit properly,
and it was purchased by the part number for the
VIN and everything. It wasn't like they "guessed"
at which cap to fit.
But our safety/smog program here has been cut back,
and the only way to get an actual smog printout, is
to go to a "speed shop". Regular mechanics no longer
have the machine for it, the smog check.
Paul
On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc. and
then store it in case I need it.
Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.
Of course, I don't have to buy one now...
I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
also.
I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
knock on wood.
Robert
It there is a functional 3-way catalytic converter,
it should pass. The engine has to be in pretty bad
shape, for a fail.
It's when you put in a straight pipe, remove the cat,
and race around town, if you go in for a smog then,
you're screwed. The cat makes a big difference.
You're more likely on a safety, to get dinged for
a poorly fitting gas cap (VOC, organic fumes). And
that check is easy, since it blows a code on the
dash if the cap is loose. I bought a brand new
gas cap at the dealer... and it didn't fit properly,
and it was purchased by the part number for the
VIN and everything. It wasn't like they "guessed"
at which cap to fit.
But our safety/smog program here has been cut back,
and the only way to get an actual smog printout, is
to go to a "speed shop". Regular mechanics no longer
have the machine for it, the smog check.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc. and
then store it in case I need it.
Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.
Of course, I don't have to buy one now...
I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
also.
I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
knock on wood.
Robert
It there is a functional 3-way catalytic converter,
it should pass. The engine has to be in pretty bad
shape, for a fail.
It's when you put in a straight pipe, remove the cat,
and race around town, if you go in for a smog then,
you're screwed. The cat makes a big difference.
You're more likely on a safety, to get dinged for
a poorly fitting gas cap (VOC, organic fumes). And
that check is easy, since it blows a code on the
dash if the cap is loose. I bought a brand new
gas cap at the dealer... and it didn't fit properly,
and it was purchased by the part number for the
VIN and everything. It wasn't like they "guessed"
at which cap to fit.
But our safety/smog program here has been cut back,
and the only way to get an actual smog printout, is
to go to a "speed shop". Regular mechanics no longer
have the machine for it, the smog check.
Paul
The same thing happened again,.. I was watching a program
on YouTube and the screen went black into power saving mode
but I could still hear the audio. There wasn't any humming
or anything. So I pressed the start button to turn it off.
After waiting 30 seconds I turned it back on.
All seems normal but this is getting weird and I'm wondering
if I'm loosing the 8500. I hope not after all our work and
effort.
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc. and
then store it in case I need it.
Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.
Of course, I don't have to buy one now...
I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
also.
I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
knock on wood.
Robert
It there is a functional 3-way catalytic converter,
it should pass. The engine has to be in pretty bad
shape, for a fail.
It's when you put in a straight pipe, remove the cat,
and race around town, if you go in for a smog then,
you're screwed. The cat makes a big difference.
You're more likely on a safety, to get dinged for
a poorly fitting gas cap (VOC, organic fumes). And
that check is easy, since it blows a code on the
dash if the cap is loose. I bought a brand new
gas cap at the dealer... and it didn't fit properly,
and it was purchased by the part number for the
VIN and everything. It wasn't like they "guessed"
at which cap to fit.
But our safety/smog program here has been cut back,
and the only way to get an actual smog printout, is
to go to a "speed shop". Regular mechanics no longer
have the machine for it, the smog check.
Paul
When I was cleaning the 8500 with the mini-vac
there was a good amount of dust in the 'snout' area
but I was able to clean it out. Each time I've worked
on it I try and clean it.
The Molex Y cables arrived today and also the fan.
It has two connections on it. One I suppose goes to
the header on the motherboard and the other connects
to the controller? Except the header connection isn't
the right type. In any case, I opened the 8500 and
checked the fit and the fan is too large.
https://postimg.cc/hfMwVmjH # The power rating seems low, for a "High" fan. The power is similar to a Medium or Low fan.
https://postimg.cc/yDbbbz0j # Four pin cable, don't know why it has extra wire.
https://postimg.cc/4KHSCF5g # OK, this wire has the RPM pin missing, so that is for daisy chaining fans, and sharing the PWM signal
https://postimg.cc/p5RGFVtW # Gee, is the 8500 even using a standard fan size ? That might be a 92mm, can't be sure.
In passing, the car passed the smog test with flying colors.
Here's the car,.. 1990 Toyota Corolla SR5, I bought it new
https://postimg.cc/zHGQQD2d
Robert
I hope I don't loose the 8500, it's a great computer,..
However, if I do, I'll switch over to the 780 and switch
monitors.
I'm also thinking if that happens of buying another 8500 on
eBay to replace it. I know I could get a more up to date
computer but that also means Win 10 or 11 and you said
yourself that Win 11 isn't all that great. Also, I have the Win 10
hard drives if needed and could put them back in the computers.
In addition, my entire backup system is built around the 8500
including the spare power supplies we bought for the 8500
and 780.
I realize that support has ended Win 7 and will end for Win10
but the computers seem to be OK for what I do and the pages
seem to load OK and I have my A/V suite. It's just this recent
screen blacking out and the humming. Maybe I shouldn't of
replaced the fans? It's opposite of what it should be doing. I
shouldn't be having any problems at this point.
Thoughts/suggestions?
Robert
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176298436870?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1TMRHJFZZTMBWWCGG&hash=item290c34a906:g:U9YAAOSwWdNl~Fpw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f0K8XNIhdthQYKTFES%2FSrYbvFR4%2FM%2B0liDapktlLkPhhPFwHdR0eUwUX0yELU6zduYWtiWE8FAntmEsq8nYtsfVN6KY7tM5DgUbI6CnFGR2jDbWKL8Yh%2FBo9%2FRHisFkOSWx7AgCItohUGbXa2J8Urv7DzDyX9qjZNXJm%2FBCisC%2BWl8LHUab1X8wxFNsAY%2Fd0K%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256890078593?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D284133%2C284158%26meid%3D3d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D176298436870%26itm%3D256890078593%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimRXIVIWithPreRankerShufflingAspectRecall%26brand%3DDell&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A2568900785933d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%7Cenc%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1BAB3C07102GWGZ67&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eiBeYfeFCt576dfldR1cvbR9Qd6vc6Mcg8TLgnGhhZEeYoaGmxKI6SgOjm%2Fj6RNQ3oGhTI1PejxNaWKaACfN3OLWElKqVYrPWwa8wCfRM1IELtaS6snPt5lBGykQkxIABndMj1%2FTme1%2FdQZUcOayQv3%2Fm6%2FmDrwpxSB0f%2BwlrS9X98nzA1yj%2FyLOQb8%2BfZQkqFOLmhSePCbz%2BqnGgSS%2FBFQHDhBk3tri%2FmMajjdhx8jwF6Y%2BBbLWT8BAc%2F7T%2BRPJA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Sc2abJZQ
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186744334910?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S24ZBA64YCK3HN2890&hash=item2b7ad46a3e:g:Am0AAOSwHE9nGUzK&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ezhni%2BdFFO5SELDf6ijBhPrCYW4nEiXC68bm4vxTGMMBHshluihx0Wbs71R2mdhZ1pmwoG5j2675i8zKryi%2B3HuRNfwRNqAF%2FVwAvg9sceQWpzo4BPoGVQBFs9hA2qqoM5Zpxs67%2FF88asqtFPEHVX2uU6yFHdyKziHclFFCOEUg0OvfDw7IjRz7G5YyN3qKBgqikNw5la4Ot7Bu1sAT%2FO5Yn0xKng4xNl0maYBv1raOG1Nr1TqUn%
On Fri, 4/18/2025 5:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:2B0liDapktlLkPhhPFwHdR0eUwUX0yELU6zduYWtiWE8FAntmEsq8nYtsfVN6KY7tM5DgUbI6CnFGR2jDbWKL8Yh%2FBo9%2FRHisFkOSWx7AgCItohUGbXa2J8Urv7DzDyX9qjZNXJm%2FBCisC%2BWl8LHUab1X8wxFNsAY%2Fd0K%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176298436870?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1TMRHJFZZTMBWWCGG&hash=item290c34a906:g:U9YAAOSwWdNl~Fpw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f0K8XNIhdthQYKTFES%2FSrYbvFR4%2FM%
3D256890078593%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimRXIVIWithPreRankerShufflingAspectRecall%26brand%3DDell&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A2568900785933d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%7Cenc%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256890078593?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D284133%2C284158%26meid%3D3d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D176298436870%26itm%
2Fj6RNQ3oGhTI1PejxNaWKaACfN3OLWElKqVYrPWwa8wCfRM1IELtaS6snPt5lBGykQkxIABndMj1%2FTme1%2FdQZUcOayQv3%2Fm6%2FmDrwpxSB0f%2BwlrS9X98nzA1yj%2FyLOQb8%2BfZQkqFOLmhSePCbz%2BqnGgSS%2FBFQHDhBk3tri%2FmMajjdhx8jwF6Y%2BBbLWT8BAc%2F7T%2BRPJA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Sc2abJZQ
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1BAB3C07102GWGZ67&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eiBeYfeFCt576dfldR1cvbR9Qd6vc6Mcg8TLgnGhhZEeYoaGmxKI6SgOjm%
2BdFFO5SELDf6ijBhPrCYW4nEiXC68bm4vxTGMMBHshluihx0Wbs71R2mdhZ1pmwoG5j2675i8zKryi%2B3HuRNfwRNqAF%2FVwAvg9sceQWpzo4BPoGVQBFs9hA2qqoM5Zpxs67%2FF88asqtFPEHVX2uU6yFHdyKziHclFFCOEUg0OvfDw7IjRz7G5YyN3qKBgqikNw5la4Ot7Bu1sAT%2FO5Yn0xKng4xNl0maYBv1raOG1Nr1TqUn%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186744334910?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S24ZBA64YCK3HN2890&hash=item2b7ad46a3e:g:Am0AAOSwHE9nGUzK&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ezhni%
The ones with the missing hard drive, they're not trying to "refurbish" the PC.
The refurbisher kit they're allowed to use, would only be for Win11.
And the CPU version is pretty well too old for Windows 11.
The CPUs in the examples, are third generation, when Windows 11
officially supports 8th generation or higher. The Microsoft original
rules, might have been for the CPU to be a 10th generation, but it
was relaxed a bit to 8th generation so more machines could be
refurbished and sold.
There are "official rules" (which a refurbisher must follow) and
there are "practical rules". I have Win 11 running on a fourth generation machine, and while the features aren't a particularly good match, it does run.
The computer case could be in good shape, or it could be scuffed.
Even if the case condition was mentioned in the advert,
they will call a case "Grade A", when it really isn't.
Mine was "Grade A", and the card cage area was bent,
and that's definitely a no-no. Scuffs don't matter.
Bent metal... does matter, because cards won't fit if
the metal is bent.
The ones with a video card, you could swap a video card.
But the cards look like AMD video cards,
and some of those could have been used to mine Ethereum bitcoins.
That's the only issue I can think of, with regard to used
cards. The cards might not have been with the machine
originally, and were slapped in to give the machine a card.
With a Dell, it helps if the power supply has enough
output power, to run a high-power video card.
Keep looking and see if one shows up in better shape than that.
Those machines should only be on ebay, so the refurbisher
issue is not policed quite as closely.
I don't know a good method, to predict success on an Ebay purchase.
One reason for not putting a hard drive in a machine, is so
there is "no need to guarantee it works". It would be harder,
to prove to the seller, it was the sellers fault.
There are slight differences in the CPU performance on those.
They're using different processors than your 3770K. If you find 3770K here, you can find socket-compatible items in the same table, which would
represent the other processors in your list.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_processors
You could also play Youtube content in windows 10 and see
if the same thing happens or not.
*******
Since you now have an extra fan, you can always point the
extra fan at the video card (assuming the video card
is passively cooled and does not have a fan of its own).
The ease of fitting a fan, depends on whether the XPS 8500
plug-in card section is tool-less like the 780. If there are
conventional metal slot covers with screws, then the screw hole can be
used for mounting your own hardware to the machine. On an ATX case,
the fan blows upwards (while the case is upright) and the bracket
goes below the vid card (requiring a slot cover to be removed so the
bracket can be mounted).
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/tCZpjWDb/pci-bracket-fan-cooler-passive-vid-card.jpg
The fan you bought, is daisy-chain ready, and any extra fan you buy,
the four pin fan of the new purchase, can plug into the end of the
fan you just got. The two of them, then run off the same controller,
but only one of the fans RPM signal is monitored.
*******
I recommend running GPUZ while you watch the Youtube video.
Allow the video to run long enough, so you get some idea
in the GPUZ output, as to whether the temperature is shooting up.
Use the rectangular download button, then select any server
on the next page for the file.
https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-gpu-z/
When I tested here, the results were pretty strange. The readout claimed
the GPU was running "30% load", which is what I might guess if estimating
the impact, but the temperature moved hardly at all. And the CPU wasn't loaded either, so it did not appear to be software-decoded video. The percentage
of TDP only moved an extra 3% or so. I couldn't really tell where the
video decoding was happening.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/9M0g3tVH/youtube-GPU-test-monitoring.jpg
You might not even need to play a video to test. To start with,
just check the Sensors tab of the GPUZ screen, and see if the
GPU is already over 60C temperature.
As I may have explained in the past, I bought two passive video cards.
One behaved itself and could run without adding a fan next to the card.
The other used to crash on load. And once a fan+bracket was fitted, it was fine.
But, those crashes were not to a black screen. Your symptoms are different, as if a VPU recover was being done, and it did not recover. On a VPU recover (watchdog timeout), the screen should be black, but only for one second.
I still can't match your symptoms, to things I've seen.
Make sure it isn't the monitor doing this. Toggle the power on the
monitor and see if it comes back. There is *no reason* for the
monitor to be sensitive to the displayed material, which is why
I rate this possiblity particularly low down on the list.
Paul
On Fri, 4/18/2025 5:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:2B0liDapktlLkPhhPFwHdR0eUwUX0yELU6zduYWtiWE8FAntmEsq8nYtsfVN6KY7tM5DgUbI6CnFGR2jDbWKL8Yh%2FBo9%2FRHisFkOSWx7AgCItohUGbXa2J8Urv7DzDyX9qjZNXJm%2FBCisC%2BWl8LHUab1X8wxFNsAY%2Fd0K%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176298436870?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1TMRHJFZZTMBWWCGG&hash=item290c34a906:g:U9YAAOSwWdNl~Fpw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f0K8XNIhdthQYKTFES%2FSrYbvFR4%2FM%
3D256890078593%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimRXIVIWithPreRankerShufflingAspectRecall%26brand%3DDell&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A2568900785933d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%7Cenc%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256890078593?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D284133%2C284158%26meid%3D3d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D176298436870%26itm%
2Fj6RNQ3oGhTI1PejxNaWKaACfN3OLWElKqVYrPWwa8wCfRM1IELtaS6snPt5lBGykQkxIABndMj1%2FTme1%2FdQZUcOayQv3%2Fm6%2FmDrwpxSB0f%2BwlrS9X98nzA1yj%2FyLOQb8%2BfZQkqFOLmhSePCbz%2BqnGgSS%2FBFQHDhBk3tri%2FmMajjdhx8jwF6Y%2BBbLWT8BAc%2F7T%2BRPJA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Sc2abJZQ
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1BAB3C07102GWGZ67&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eiBeYfeFCt576dfldR1cvbR9Qd6vc6Mcg8TLgnGhhZEeYoaGmxKI6SgOjm%
2BdFFO5SELDf6ijBhPrCYW4nEiXC68bm4vxTGMMBHshluihx0Wbs71R2mdhZ1pmwoG5j2675i8zKryi%2B3HuRNfwRNqAF%2FVwAvg9sceQWpzo4BPoGVQBFs9hA2qqoM5Zpxs67%2FF88asqtFPEHVX2uU6yFHdyKziHclFFCOEUg0OvfDw7IjRz7G5YyN3qKBgqikNw5la4Ot7Bu1sAT%2FO5Yn0xKng4xNl0maYBv1raOG1Nr1TqUn%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186744334910?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S24ZBA64YCK3HN2890&hash=item2b7ad46a3e:g:Am0AAOSwHE9nGUzK&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ezhni%
The ones with the missing hard drive, they're not trying to "refurbish" the PC.
The refurbisher kit they're allowed to use, would only be for Win11.
And the CPU version is pretty well too old for Windows 11.
The CPUs in the examples, are third generation, when Windows 11
officially supports 8th generation or higher. The Microsoft original
rules, might have been for the CPU to be a 10th generation, but it
was relaxed a bit to 8th generation so more machines could be
refurbished and sold.
There are "official rules" (which a refurbisher must follow) and
there are "practical rules". I have Win 11 running on a fourth generation machine, and while the features aren't a particularly good match, it does run.
The computer case could be in good shape, or it could be scuffed.
Even if the case condition was mentioned in the advert,
they will call a case "Grade A", when it really isn't.
Mine was "Grade A", and the card cage area was bent,
and that's definitely a no-no. Scuffs don't matter.
Bent metal... does matter, because cards won't fit if
the metal is bent.
The ones with a video card, you could swap a video card.
But the cards look like AMD video cards,
and some of those could have been used to mine Ethereum bitcoins.
That's the only issue I can think of, with regard to used
cards. The cards might not have been with the machine
originally, and were slapped in to give the machine a card.
With a Dell, it helps if the power supply has enough
output power, to run a high-power video card.
Keep looking and see if one shows up in better shape than that.
Those machines should only be on ebay, so the refurbisher
issue is not policed quite as closely.
I don't know a good method, to predict success on an Ebay purchase.
One reason for not putting a hard drive in a machine, is so
there is "no need to guarantee it works". It would be harder,
to prove to the seller, it was the sellers fault.
There are slight differences in the CPU performance on those.
They're using different processors than your 3770K. If you find 3770K here, you can find socket-compatible items in the same table, which would
represent the other processors in your list.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_processors
You could also play Youtube content in windows 10 and see
if the same thing happens or not.
*******
Since you now have an extra fan, you can always point the
extra fan at the video card (assuming the video card
is passively cooled and does not have a fan of its own).
The ease of fitting a fan, depends on whether the XPS 8500
plug-in card section is tool-less like the 780. If there are
conventional metal slot covers with screws, then the screw hole can be
used for mounting your own hardware to the machine. On an ATX case,
the fan blows upwards (while the case is upright) and the bracket
goes below the vid card (requiring a slot cover to be removed so the
bracket can be mounted).
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/tCZpjWDb/pci-bracket-fan-cooler-passive-vid-card.jpg
The fan you bought, is daisy-chain ready, and any extra fan you buy,
the four pin fan of the new purchase, can plug into the end of the
fan you just got. The two of them, then run off the same controller,
but only one of the fans RPM signal is monitored.
*******
I recommend running GPUZ while you watch the Youtube video.
Allow the video to run long enough, so you get some idea
in the GPUZ output, as to whether the temperature is shooting up.
Use the rectangular download button, then select any server
on the next page for the file.
https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-gpu-z/
When I tested here, the results were pretty strange. The readout claimed
the GPU was running "30% load", which is what I might guess if estimating
the impact, but the temperature moved hardly at all. And the CPU wasn't loaded either, so it did not appear to be software-decoded video. The percentage
of TDP only moved an extra 3% or so. I couldn't really tell where the
video decoding was happening.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/9M0g3tVH/youtube-GPU-test-monitoring.jpg
You might not even need to play a video to test. To start with,
just check the Sensors tab of the GPUZ screen, and see if the
GPU is already over 60C temperature.
As I may have explained in the past, I bought two passive video cards.
One behaved itself and could run without adding a fan next to the card.
The other used to crash on load. And once a fan+bracket was fitted, it was fine.
But, those crashes were not to a black screen. Your symptoms are different, as if a VPU recover was being done, and it did not recover. On a VPU recover (watchdog timeout), the screen should be black, but only for one second.
I still can't match your symptoms, to things I've seen.
Make sure it isn't the monitor doing this. Toggle the power on the
monitor and see if it comes back. There is *no reason* for the
monitor to be sensitive to the displayed material, which is why
I rate this possiblity particularly low down on the list.
Paul
On Fri, 4/18/2025 5:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:2B0liDapktlLkPhhPFwHdR0eUwUX0yELU6zduYWtiWE8FAntmEsq8nYtsfVN6KY7tM5DgUbI6CnFGR2jDbWKL8Yh%2FBo9%2FRHisFkOSWx7AgCItohUGbXa2J8Urv7DzDyX9qjZNXJm%2FBCisC%2BWl8LHUab1X8wxFNsAY%2Fd0K%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176298436870?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1TMRHJFZZTMBWWCGG&hash=item290c34a906:g:U9YAAOSwWdNl~Fpw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f0K8XNIhdthQYKTFES%2FSrYbvFR4%2FM%
3D256890078593%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimRXIVIWithPreRankerShufflingAspectRecall%26brand%3DDell&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A2568900785933d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%7Cenc%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256890078593?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D284133%2C284158%26meid%3D3d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D176298436870%26itm%
2Fj6RNQ3oGhTI1PejxNaWKaACfN3OLWElKqVYrPWwa8wCfRM1IELtaS6snPt5lBGykQkxIABndMj1%2FTme1%2FdQZUcOayQv3%2Fm6%2FmDrwpxSB0f%2BwlrS9X98nzA1yj%2FyLOQb8%2BfZQkqFOLmhSePCbz%2BqnGgSS%2FBFQHDhBk3tri%2FmMajjdhx8jwF6Y%2BBbLWT8BAc%2F7T%2BRPJA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Sc2abJZQ
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1BAB3C07102GWGZ67&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eiBeYfeFCt576dfldR1cvbR9Qd6vc6Mcg8TLgnGhhZEeYoaGmxKI6SgOjm%
2BdFFO5SELDf6ijBhPrCYW4nEiXC68bm4vxTGMMBHshluihx0Wbs71R2mdhZ1pmwoG5j2675i8zKryi%2B3HuRNfwRNqAF%2FVwAvg9sceQWpzo4BPoGVQBFs9hA2qqoM5Zpxs67%2FF88asqtFPEHVX2uU6yFHdyKziHclFFCOEUg0OvfDw7IjRz7G5YyN3qKBgqikNw5la4Ot7Bu1sAT%2FO5Yn0xKng4xNl0maYBv1raOG1Nr1TqUn%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186744334910?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S24ZBA64YCK3HN2890&hash=item2b7ad46a3e:g:Am0AAOSwHE9nGUzK&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ezhni%
The ones with the missing hard drive, they're not trying to "refurbish" the PC.
The refurbisher kit they're allowed to use, would only be for Win11.
And the CPU version is pretty well too old for Windows 11.
The CPUs in the examples, are third generation, when Windows 11
officially supports 8th generation or higher. The Microsoft original
rules, might have been for the CPU to be a 10th generation, but it
was relaxed a bit to 8th generation so more machines could be
refurbished and sold.
There are "official rules" (which a refurbisher must follow) and
there are "practical rules". I have Win 11 running on a fourth generation machine, and while the features aren't a particularly good match, it does run.
The computer case could be in good shape, or it could be scuffed.
Even if the case condition was mentioned in the advert,
they will call a case "Grade A", when it really isn't.
Mine was "Grade A", and the card cage area was bent,
and that's definitely a no-no. Scuffs don't matter.
Bent metal... does matter, because cards won't fit if
the metal is bent.
The ones with a video card, you could swap a video card.
But the cards look like AMD video cards,
and some of those could have been used to mine Ethereum bitcoins.
That's the only issue I can think of, with regard to used
cards. The cards might not have been with the machine
originally, and were slapped in to give the machine a card.
With a Dell, it helps if the power supply has enough
output power, to run a high-power video card.
Keep looking and see if one shows up in better shape than that.
Those machines should only be on ebay, so the refurbisher
issue is not policed quite as closely.
I don't know a good method, to predict success on an Ebay purchase.
One reason for not putting a hard drive in a machine, is so
there is "no need to guarantee it works". It would be harder,
to prove to the seller, it was the sellers fault.
There are slight differences in the CPU performance on those.
They're using different processors than your 3770K. If you find 3770K here, you can find socket-compatible items in the same table, which would
represent the other processors in your list.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_processors
You could also play Youtube content in windows 10 and see
if the same thing happens or not.
*******
Since you now have an extra fan, you can always point the
extra fan at the video card (assuming the video card
is passively cooled and does not have a fan of its own).
The ease of fitting a fan, depends on whether the XPS 8500
plug-in card section is tool-less like the 780. If there are
conventional metal slot covers with screws, then the screw hole can be
used for mounting your own hardware to the machine. On an ATX case,
the fan blows upwards (while the case is upright) and the bracket
goes below the vid card (requiring a slot cover to be removed so the
bracket can be mounted).
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/tCZpjWDb/pci-bracket-fan-cooler-passive-vid-card.jpg
The fan you bought, is daisy-chain ready, and any extra fan you buy,
the four pin fan of the new purchase, can plug into the end of the
fan you just got. The two of them, then run off the same controller,
but only one of the fans RPM signal is monitored.
*******
I recommend running GPUZ while you watch the Youtube video.
Allow the video to run long enough, so you get some idea
in the GPUZ output, as to whether the temperature is shooting up.
Use the rectangular download button, then select any server
on the next page for the file.
https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-gpu-z/
When I tested here, the results were pretty strange. The readout claimed
the GPU was running "30% load", which is what I might guess if estimating
the impact, but the temperature moved hardly at all. And the CPU wasn't loaded either, so it did not appear to be software-decoded video. The percentage
of TDP only moved an extra 3% or so. I couldn't really tell where the
video decoding was happening.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/9M0g3tVH/youtube-GPU-test-monitoring.jpg
You might not even need to play a video to test. To start with,
just check the Sensors tab of the GPUZ screen, and see if the
GPU is already over 60C temperature.
As I may have explained in the past, I bought two passive video cards.
One behaved itself and could run without adding a fan next to the card.
The other used to crash on load. And once a fan+bracket was fitted, it was fine.
But, those crashes were not to a black screen. Your symptoms are different, as if a VPU recover was being done, and it did not recover. On a VPU recover (watchdog timeout), the screen should be black, but only for one second.
I still can't match your symptoms, to things I've seen.
Make sure it isn't the monitor doing this. Toggle the power on the
monitor and see if it comes back. There is *no reason* for the
monitor to be sensitive to the displayed material, which is why
I rate this possiblity particularly low down on the list.
Paul
On Fri, 4/18/2025 5:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:2B0liDapktlLkPhhPFwHdR0eUwUX0yELU6zduYWtiWE8FAntmEsq8nYtsfVN6KY7tM5DgUbI6CnFGR2jDbWKL8Yh%2FBo9%2FRHisFkOSWx7AgCItohUGbXa2J8Urv7DzDyX9qjZNXJm%2FBCisC%2BWl8LHUab1X8wxFNsAY%2Fd0K%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176298436870?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1TMRHJFZZTMBWWCGG&hash=item290c34a906:g:U9YAAOSwWdNl~Fpw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f0K8XNIhdthQYKTFES%2FSrYbvFR4%2FM%
3D256890078593%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimRXIVIWithPreRankerShufflingAspectRecall%26brand%3DDell&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A2568900785933d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%7Cenc%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256890078593?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D284133%2C284158%26meid%3D3d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D176298436870%26itm%
2Fj6RNQ3oGhTI1PejxNaWKaACfN3OLWElKqVYrPWwa8wCfRM1IELtaS6snPt5lBGykQkxIABndMj1%2FTme1%2FdQZUcOayQv3%2Fm6%2FmDrwpxSB0f%2BwlrS9X98nzA1yj%2FyLOQb8%2BfZQkqFOLmhSePCbz%2BqnGgSS%2FBFQHDhBk3tri%2FmMajjdhx8jwF6Y%2BBbLWT8BAc%2F7T%2BRPJA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Sc2abJZQ
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1BAB3C07102GWGZ67&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eiBeYfeFCt576dfldR1cvbR9Qd6vc6Mcg8TLgnGhhZEeYoaGmxKI6SgOjm%
2BdFFO5SELDf6ijBhPrCYW4nEiXC68bm4vxTGMMBHshluihx0Wbs71R2mdhZ1pmwoG5j2675i8zKryi%2B3HuRNfwRNqAF%2FVwAvg9sceQWpzo4BPoGVQBFs9hA2qqoM5Zpxs67%2FF88asqtFPEHVX2uU6yFHdyKziHclFFCOEUg0OvfDw7IjRz7G5YyN3qKBgqikNw5la4Ot7Bu1sAT%2FO5Yn0xKng4xNl0maYBv1raOG1Nr1TqUn%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186744334910?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S24ZBA64YCK3HN2890&hash=item2b7ad46a3e:g:Am0AAOSwHE9nGUzK&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ezhni%
The ones with the missing hard drive, they're not trying to "refurbish" the PC.
The refurbisher kit they're allowed to use, would only be for Win11.
And the CPU version is pretty well too old for Windows 11.
The CPUs in the examples, are third generation, when Windows 11
officially supports 8th generation or higher. The Microsoft original
rules, might have been for the CPU to be a 10th generation, but it
was relaxed a bit to 8th generation so more machines could be
refurbished and sold.
There are "official rules" (which a refurbisher must follow) and
there are "practical rules". I have Win 11 running on a fourth generation machine, and while the features aren't a particularly good match, it does run.
The computer case could be in good shape, or it could be scuffed.
Even if the case condition was mentioned in the advert,
they will call a case "Grade A", when it really isn't.
Mine was "Grade A", and the card cage area was bent,
and that's definitely a no-no. Scuffs don't matter.
Bent metal... does matter, because cards won't fit if
the metal is bent.
The ones with a video card, you could swap a video card.
But the cards look like AMD video cards,
and some of those could have been used to mine Ethereum bitcoins.
That's the only issue I can think of, with regard to used
cards. The cards might not have been with the machine
originally, and were slapped in to give the machine a card.
With a Dell, it helps if the power supply has enough
output power, to run a high-power video card.
Keep looking and see if one shows up in better shape than that.
Those machines should only be on ebay, so the refurbisher
issue is not policed quite as closely.
I don't know a good method, to predict success on an Ebay purchase.
One reason for not putting a hard drive in a machine, is so
there is "no need to guarantee it works". It would be harder,
to prove to the seller, it was the sellers fault.
There are slight differences in the CPU performance on those.
They're using different processors than your 3770K. If you find 3770K here, you can find socket-compatible items in the same table, which would
represent the other processors in your list.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_processors
You could also play Youtube content in windows 10 and see
if the same thing happens or not.
*******
Since you now have an extra fan, you can always point the
extra fan at the video card (assuming the video card
is passively cooled and does not have a fan of its own).
The ease of fitting a fan, depends on whether the XPS 8500
plug-in card section is tool-less like the 780. If there are
conventional metal slot covers with screws, then the screw hole can be
used for mounting your own hardware to the machine. On an ATX case,
the fan blows upwards (while the case is upright) and the bracket
goes below the vid card (requiring a slot cover to be removed so the
bracket can be mounted).
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/tCZpjWDb/pci-bracket-fan-cooler-passive-vid-card.jpg
The fan you bought, is daisy-chain ready, and any extra fan you buy,
the four pin fan of the new purchase, can plug into the end of the
fan you just got. The two of them, then run off the same controller,
but only one of the fans RPM signal is monitored.
*******
I recommend running GPUZ while you watch the Youtube video.
Allow the video to run long enough, so you get some idea
in the GPUZ output, as to whether the temperature is shooting up.
Use the rectangular download button, then select any server
on the next page for the file.
https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-gpu-z/
When I tested here, the results were pretty strange. The readout claimed
the GPU was running "30% load", which is what I might guess if estimating
the impact, but the temperature moved hardly at all. And the CPU wasn't loaded either, so it did not appear to be software-decoded video. The percentage
of TDP only moved an extra 3% or so. I couldn't really tell where the
video decoding was happening.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/9M0g3tVH/youtube-GPU-test-monitoring.jpg
You might not even need to play a video to test. To start with,
just check the Sensors tab of the GPUZ screen, and see if the
GPU is already over 60C temperature.
As I may have explained in the past, I bought two passive video cards.
One behaved itself and could run without adding a fan next to the card.
The other used to crash on load. And once a fan+bracket was fitted, it was fine.
But, those crashes were not to a black screen. Your symptoms are different, as if a VPU recover was being done, and it did not recover. On a VPU recover (watchdog timeout), the screen should be black, but only for one second.
I still can't match your symptoms, to things I've seen.
Make sure it isn't the monitor doing this. Toggle the power on the
monitor and see if it comes back. There is *no reason* for the
monitor to be sensitive to the displayed material, which is why
I rate this possiblity particularly low down on the list.
Paul
Here's a few more I found,.. they say it has Win 10 installed2F0Ts8NPzVMQxheu%2B6SxzMwDxUp7wQp5ITltokuXgSUfPAnQ0zEt9R8GXMXMG3RTaLpsWT1jVHm3zzRqpEA%2BqQqNrxUN4538nQ0lAUMC9N0DIi1FesGPaxi8l7KkSlsVEewDkRuaFkStVmuajicMxCXkkRVHFAr%2Fgb%2FUW%2BwoNxiDKsz531IvgpHyQW%
but I have to go through the setup. Is possible that a Win 7
hard drive would work on these? One says there was only 1
owner.
What do you think?
Robert
This one is pretty pricy but I included it to show you.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186866397246?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCKVQCT6F9MD5MGWSF&hash=item2b821af03e:g:3NoAAOSw3P9nc6Bd&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cjQQT4A%2FbkxTa0cWPf9MjBF%2BYgMVu5nCvmZMUlHcZF0NHcJE%2Ftj%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCK3KWFPMC68P0MN1E&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZJlWHIavwrW1%2BV085MNCNKkZhgrVZO%2FfA0e50KzTTTm9jfepVjia8ANIRCFdkjiyNi44lGJ751S4hzvWJwRTF2oAIplnhlQiFZtONzp9oaoIXIJIFt2FwdJZoZkxizmusX41FAFclZ5m0PUAszg1JWu7Mlt%2B5Rr188Rmu9%2F9JVXSfI%2FuRN99zGSFhWr7eGPyABNV7dJ4vqjKa%2FBggAIWOc35Q1IH7ulNgjeVmjMY21hk0e7cVck18WjKjTKi6rHFoK3Enr%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/205406720622?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XC19243VP459HHE6H6&hash=item2fd331d26e:g:RRQAAeSw5gFn9Cdr&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eJvC7lfGY32%2Fm4Ml5QCTpsA%2FN3qOowJih8QQal4f04RNFGjEf0OrHZSvakzwjt5pPvqmBj07uSWRJpfkQR%2B3Vc3EqNoANO8AOBRQ1S0ClUYCFcjAp61BBVPVcqeNkEe%2BuyaYDXNAETSlXqAA8Y9DplwFkrrYAdweQpqZPmYAhQooqbShS6Zmwgn2oHwtSimAb0vRsgTNK7OMi%2BQyMQ3GDKBpcxM9PZWT2seQtRMHNEVk%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/167449827914?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XDX9A1RF6AK1H1Y2KQ&hash=item26fcc99a4a:g:k-oAAOSwCXBnziW2&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f%2F8Ql4PRQjYtZPoP4OIaMc3PUjtAqSRXDjijNYEhUc7f2HG9Hy9AHsKq4GwcHK47n9MXr7SlJY5Wmjs9AgZVtvkfWqCUFUMaroeTW1FGSa8G3dU%2FsV6HzNiJOJ%2BnF7ULibFzuE%2BTh1ZwxWkzUL2HD2C3PooEF%2B63PWjBDsjicrNzZhuznopziM5ct4WE8%2BYsmZNn8Nxi8jI9e82WvfEVTGi11F9%2BDs53DxQwoDU%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/296645413999?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XD8G7CDF4YQSWVJ5DZ&hash=item451171cc6f:g:jOkAAOSw7zJmxqjg&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1d57VSuZp0JKggAzOdLkiK1bYwoY6SnfQn3XmlhHzMwez3wQX7oazXz%2BKh0Z4hldCvga2TQQXPU0Xgncq2bnkPowdjq3FFtWmsFVvWfGedma55OJXZE8fATyIIcqYquhFSXn7auwasBbDotVVtOCD3S%2F13GzNBf2LnLHpE0C5Wwae5%2FuyhqRBxaFg2y8B8Q7VQIMhcJ994r3jRqu6uHHHT5euK0d2fcGTGd%2BrzbO46hG9bNcWysls49cGFgntOsR5awZx2P0crx0%
Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?
Thanks
Robert
Paul wrote:2B0liDapktlLkPhhPFwHdR0eUwUX0yELU6zduYWtiWE8FAntmEsq8nYtsfVN6KY7tM5DgUbI6CnFGR2jDbWKL8Yh%2FBo9%2FRHisFkOSWx7AgCItohUGbXa2J8Urv7DzDyX9qjZNXJm%2FBCisC%2BWl8LHUab1X8wxFNsAY%2Fd0K%
On Fri, 4/18/2025 5:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176298436870?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1TMRHJFZZTMBWWCGG&hash=item290c34a906:g:U9YAAOSwWdNl~Fpw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f0K8XNIhdthQYKTFES%2FSrYbvFR4%2FM%
3D256890078593%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimRXIVIWithPreRankerShufflingAspectRecall%26brand%3DDell&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A2568900785933d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%7Cenc%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256890078593?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D284133%2C284158%26meid%3D3d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D176298436870%26itm%
2Fj6RNQ3oGhTI1PejxNaWKaACfN3OLWElKqVYrPWwa8wCfRM1IELtaS6snPt5lBGykQkxIABndMj1%2FTme1%2FdQZUcOayQv3%2Fm6%2FmDrwpxSB0f%2BwlrS9X98nzA1yj%2FyLOQb8%2BfZQkqFOLmhSePCbz%2BqnGgSS%2FBFQHDhBk3tri%2FmMajjdhx8jwF6Y%2BBbLWT8BAc%2F7T%2BRPJA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Sc2abJZQ
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1BAB3C07102GWGZ67&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eiBeYfeFCt576dfldR1cvbR9Qd6vc6Mcg8TLgnGhhZEeYoaGmxKI6SgOjm%
2BdFFO5SELDf6ijBhPrCYW4nEiXC68bm4vxTGMMBHshluihx0Wbs71R2mdhZ1pmwoG5j2675i8zKryi%2B3HuRNfwRNqAF%2FVwAvg9sceQWpzo4BPoGVQBFs9hA2qqoM5Zpxs67%2FF88asqtFPEHVX2uU6yFHdyKziHclFFCOEUg0OvfDw7IjRz7G5YyN3qKBgqikNw5la4Ot7Bu1sAT%2FO5Yn0xKng4xNl0maYBv1raOG1Nr1TqUn%
https://www.ebay.com/itm/186744334910?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S24ZBA64YCK3HN2890&hash=item2b7ad46a3e:g:Am0AAOSwHE9nGUzK&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ezhni%
The ones with the missing hard drive, they're not trying to "refurbish" the PC.
The refurbisher kit they're allowed to use, would only be for Win11.
And the CPU version is pretty well too old for Windows 11.
The CPUs in the examples, are third generation, when Windows 11
officially supports 8th generation or higher. The Microsoft original
rules, might have been for the CPU to be a 10th generation, but it
was relaxed a bit to 8th generation so more machines could be
refurbished and sold.
There are "official rules" (which a refurbisher must follow) and
there are "practical rules". I have Win 11 running on a fourth generation
machine, and while the features aren't a particularly good match, it does run.
The computer case could be in good shape, or it could be scuffed.
Even if the case condition was mentioned in the advert,
they will call a case "Grade A", when it really isn't.
Mine was "Grade A", and the card cage area was bent,
and that's definitely a no-no. Scuffs don't matter.
Bent metal... does matter, because cards won't fit if
the metal is bent.
The ones with a video card, you could swap a video card.
But the cards look like AMD video cards,
and some of those could have been used to mine Ethereum bitcoins.
That's the only issue I can think of, with regard to used
cards. The cards might not have been with the machine
originally, and were slapped in to give the machine a card.
With a Dell, it helps if the power supply has enough
output power, to run a high-power video card.
Keep looking and see if one shows up in better shape than that.
Those machines should only be on ebay, so the refurbisher
issue is not policed quite as closely.
I don't know a good method, to predict success on an Ebay purchase.
One reason for not putting a hard drive in a machine, is so
there is "no need to guarantee it works". It would be harder,
to prove to the seller, it was the sellers fault.
There are slight differences in the CPU performance on those.
They're using different processors than your 3770K. If you find 3770K here, >> you can find socket-compatible items in the same table, which would
represent the other processors in your list.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_processors
You could also play Youtube content in windows 10 and see
if the same thing happens or not.
*******
Since you now have an extra fan, you can always point the
extra fan at the video card (assuming the video card
is passively cooled and does not have a fan of its own).
The ease of fitting a fan, depends on whether the XPS 8500
plug-in card section is tool-less like the 780. If there are
conventional metal slot covers with screws, then the screw hole can be
used for mounting your own hardware to the machine. On an ATX case,
the fan blows upwards (while the case is upright) and the bracket
goes below the vid card (requiring a slot cover to be removed so the
bracket can be mounted).
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/tCZpjWDb/pci-bracket-fan-cooler-passive-vid-card.jpg
The fan you bought, is daisy-chain ready, and any extra fan you buy,
the four pin fan of the new purchase, can plug into the end of the
fan you just got. The two of them, then run off the same controller,
but only one of the fans RPM signal is monitored.
*******
I recommend running GPUZ while you watch the Youtube video.
Allow the video to run long enough, so you get some idea
in the GPUZ output, as to whether the temperature is shooting up.
Use the rectangular download button, then select any server
on the next page for the file.
https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-gpu-z/
When I tested here, the results were pretty strange. The readout claimed
the GPU was running "30% load", which is what I might guess if estimating
the impact, but the temperature moved hardly at all. And the CPU wasn't
loaded either, so it did not appear to be software-decoded video. The percentage
of TDP only moved an extra 3% or so. I couldn't really tell where the
video decoding was happening.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/9M0g3tVH/youtube-GPU-test-monitoring.jpg
You might not even need to play a video to test. To start with,
just check the Sensors tab of the GPUZ screen, and see if the
GPU is already over 60C temperature.
As I may have explained in the past, I bought two passive video cards.
One behaved itself and could run without adding a fan next to the card.
The other used to crash on load. And once a fan+bracket was fitted, it was fine.
But, those crashes were not to a black screen. Your symptoms are different, >> as if a VPU recover was being done, and it did not recover. On a VPU recover >> (watchdog timeout), the screen should be black, but only for one second.
I still can't match your symptoms, to things I've seen.
Make sure it isn't the monitor doing this. Toggle the power on the
monitor and see if it comes back. There is *no reason* for the
monitor to be sensitive to the displayed material, which is why
I rate this possiblity particularly low down on the list.
Paul
Sorry about that, somehow you got the wrong images,...
Here's the right ones,,...
https://postimg.cc/3kDb8P3p
https://postimg.cc/Wq73B9HJ
https://postimg.cc/YhvdRJGV
https://postimg.cc/RN2XDXw0
Robert
On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?
Thanks
Robert
the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.
The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10.
If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.
The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.
The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
the card you currently own.
Paul
On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?
Thanks
Robert
the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.
The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10.
If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.
The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.
The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
the card you currently own.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?
Thanks
Robert
the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.
The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10. >>
If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.
The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.
The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
the card you currently own.
Paul
I opened up the 8500 but I didn't know how to remove
the video card at the time but I do now (I watched a
YouTube video). I could go back and do it if you want.
The video card seemed firmly seated with no gold showing.
but I'm wondering if its the monitor cable itself ?
What do you think about using compressed air to clean the
inside of the computers further?
https://postimg.cc/xqPZ7725
https://postimg.cc/gLcgmzWD
https://postimg.cc/K1hgM9KX
https://postimg.cc/f3j7LG5g
https://postimg.cc/DWBWRnxF
I can ask the eBay seller to remove the HD and Video card
and package them separate. I'll just ask him to pack everything carefully and I'll use regular USPS and hope for the best. It's
fairly close to me so that helps.
The $199 Nvidia kind of looks like the one we put in the 780 awhile back.
I didn't realize video cards with Win 7 and Win10 are hard to find.
We'll go with what you recommend, the GT730.
Thanks,
Robert
Paul wrote:2FfA0e50KzTTTm9jfepVjia8ANIRCFdkjiyNi44lGJ751S4hzvWJwRTF2oAIplnhlQiFZtONzp9oaoIXIJIFt2FwdJZoZkxizmusX41FAFclZ5m0PUAszg1JWu7Mlt%2B5Rr188Rmu9%2F9JVXSfI%2FuRN99zGSFhWr7eGPyABNV7dJ4vqjKa%2FBggAIWOc35Q1IH7ulNgjeVmjMY21hk0e7cVck18WjKjTKi6rHFoK3Enr%
On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?
Thanks
Robert
the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.
The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10. >>
If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.
The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.
The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
the card you currently own.
Paul
Just to be clear,... this is the computer your recommending,.. this is the one with Win 10 installed but I have to do the setup and install my A/V suite, Word, Excel Dell Imaging, SeaMonkey, etc. So there's no way a Win 7 Pro hd would run on this ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCK3KWFPMC68P0MN1E&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZJlWHIavwrW1%2BV085MNCNKkZhgrVZO%
I'll ask him to remove the hard drive and video card and pack them
separately and to pack the computer carefully.
I ordered the GT730 video card.
Robert
On Sun, 4/20/2025 3:43 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?
Thanks
Robert
the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.
The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10. >>>
If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.
The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.
The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
the card you currently own.
Paul
I opened up the 8500 but I didn't know how to remove
the video card at the time but I do now (I watched a
YouTube video). I could go back and do it if you want.
The video card seemed firmly seated with no gold showing.
but I'm wondering if its the monitor cable itself ?
What do you think about using compressed air to clean the
inside of the computers further?
https://postimg.cc/xqPZ7725
https://postimg.cc/gLcgmzWD
https://postimg.cc/K1hgM9KX
https://postimg.cc/f3j7LG5g
https://postimg.cc/DWBWRnxF
I can ask the eBay seller to remove the HD and Video card
and package them separate. I'll just ask him to pack everything carefully and I'll use regular USPS and hope for the best. It's
fairly close to me so that helps.
The $199 Nvidia kind of looks like the one we put in the 780 awhile back.
I didn't realize video cards with Win 7 and Win10 are hard to find.
We'll go with what you recommend, the GT730.
Thanks,
Robert
I'm not a big authority on video cards, I try to notice trends
in terms of what is making the rounds. Part of the shopping would
need for the person buying to check for video card driver updates, to see
if anything is available for each OS version.
I just noticed on my GTX1080, that there was only one Windows 7 driver,
and I came this close to not being able to use it on Win7. The FX5200
cards which I used a lot previously, they span from WinXP to Win8 or so,
but Win10 had no driver for it. The FX5200 had a good run for its money,
but it isn't a candidate for W10/W11 use.
There were a bunch of cards during the Bitcoin/Ethereum era. Mostly
the cards were used for things like Ethereum (used video card memory
and needed 4GB of VRAM) and Monero (resource type unknown). Bitcoin
was easier to generate with dedicated "boxes" for the task, that costs thousands per box. Once the mining craze had a bit of a lull,
a lot of cards were "retired" and showed up on the used market (like EBay). But those weren't always a good deal, as the card could be "cooked"
from constant high temperature operation, or, the previous owner did not
undo the firmware change done to the card. This is why we have to be
a bit skeptical of cards from that era. And I could see cards like
that showing up in a "refurb" one way or another. But the refurbisher
would likely recondition the video card and undo any mods done to it.
You might easily search for cards and find something I missed. Before
COVID, there used to be a pretty healthy market in weird video cards.
Stuff that was decades old, you could still find some. But after COVID,
the old stock looks to have got trashed. And when it comes to cheap
cards, some of them were only showing up in "batches", which means
supply of an item might only last two or three weeks. Two of my
cards here are from batches, and you can't get those cards now.
The newer cards have more than one potential issue, for an older
computer user (GOP-only VBIOS video card versus non-UEFI computer).
Some of the cards were backward compatible, but the very latest cards
are apparently not compatible (based on one report). For example,
if I took an RTX 5090 and put it in the Optiplex 780, the screen
would remain black, because the config space ROM couldn't be loaded
and understood by the BIOS (and that is ignoring the powering issue
with a hungry card like that one).
Finding a GT730 for $50, in the year 2025, that's some kind of miracle
when the cheapest current cards run $200-$250. No gamer would be
looking for a GT730 now, but any card with a driver will do as a
way to display the desktop.
Paul
On Sun, 4/20/2025 6:15 PM, RobnCA wrote:2FfA0e50KzTTTm9jfepVjia8ANIRCFdkjiyNi44lGJ751S4hzvWJwRTF2oAIplnhlQiFZtONzp9oaoIXIJIFt2FwdJZoZkxizmusX41FAFclZ5m0PUAszg1JWu7Mlt%2B5Rr188Rmu9%2F9JVXSfI%2FuRN99zGSFhWr7eGPyABNV7dJ4vqjKa%2FBggAIWOc35Q1IH7ulNgjeVmjMY21hk0e7cVck18WjKjTKi6rHFoK3Enr%
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?
Thanks
Robert
the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.
The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10. >>>
If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.
The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.
The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
the card you currently own.
Paul
Just to be clear,... this is the computer your recommending,.. this is the one with Win 10 installed but I have to do the setup and install my A/V suite, Word, Excel Dell Imaging, SeaMonkey, etc. So there's no way a Win 7 Pro hd would run on this ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCK3KWFPMC68P0MN1E&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZJlWHIavwrW1%2BV085MNCNKkZhgrVZO%
I'll ask him to remove the hard drive and video card and pack them
separately and to pack the computer carefully.
I ordered the GT730 video card.
Robert
I think your Win7 is originally the OS from Dell, and that's a Royalty OEM Windows
which activates any time it runs on a Dell. It uses the Dell SLIC table from the
BIOS, to detect it is on a Dell.
This would allow you to move your Win7 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell.
If you moved the Win10 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell, that OS
is a Retail (downloaded) installation as far as I know. In the Free Upgrade era, you could have installed Win10 over top, and the license key from the Dell would be used to authorize the Dell for Win10. And that would be
a way of ensuring, that later, if you moved the original Win10 drive from
the old Dell to the new Dell, it would even activate. But since we're outside the Free Upgrade era now, that's not going to work. It *might* work, *if*
the previous owner of the new Dell, happened to test install Win10 some years ago. Then, when your old Win10 drive moved over to the new Dell, it would activate.
It's a good thing this stuff is simple to understand :-)
That's why for Enterprise, they have Licensing Experts, people
who do nothing but answer questions of that nature, identify
what combination of Snakes and Ladders gets you from A to B.
I think the Dell in your
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426
link, uses an SSD, so the hard drive is NAND flash based and quite
resistant to shock and vibration. Only a heavy video card would need
to be wrapped separately, if anything.
OK, that video card isn't that heavy. But the max power is 60W,
which is at the slot limit (the slot is 75W, but the engineers
usually de-rate a bit and run the vid card design around 60W or so
as a max). There does not seem to be a 2x3 connector on that card,
that I can see.
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393
The card has 1GB of VRAM, which means it couldn't be used for Ethereum.
The previous owner would have played older games on it, if anything.
At the bottom of the Techpowerup page, it says:
Windows 7 / 8.1 / 10:
Catalyst Software Suite 15.7.1 / 16.2.1 Beta
which means there is a potential for drivers.
Paul
Paul wrote:2FfA0e50KzTTTm9jfepVjia8ANIRCFdkjiyNi44lGJ751S4hzvWJwRTF2oAIplnhlQiFZtONzp9oaoIXIJIFt2FwdJZoZkxizmusX41FAFclZ5m0PUAszg1JWu7Mlt%2B5Rr188Rmu9%2F9JVXSfI%2FuRN99zGSFhWr7eGPyABNV7dJ4vqjKa%2FBggAIWOc35Q1IH7ulNgjeVmjMY21hk0e7cVck18WjKjTKi6rHFoK3Enr%
On Sun, 4/20/2025 6:15 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?
Thanks
Robert
the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.
The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10.
If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.
The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.
The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
the card you currently own.
Paul
Just to be clear,... this is the computer your recommending,.. this is the one with Win 10 installed but I have to do the setup and install my A/V suite, Word, Excel Dell Imaging, SeaMonkey, etc. So there's no way a Win 7 Pro hd would run on this ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCK3KWFPMC68P0MN1E&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZJlWHIavwrW1%2BV085MNCNKkZhgrVZO%
I'll ask him to remove the hard drive and video card and pack them
separately and to pack the computer carefully.
I ordered the GT730 video card.
Robert
I think your Win7 is originally the OS from Dell, and that's a Royalty OEM Windows
which activates any time it runs on a Dell. It uses the Dell SLIC table from the
BIOS, to detect it is on a Dell.
This would allow you to move your Win7 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell.
If you moved the Win10 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell, that OS
is a Retail (downloaded) installation as far as I know. In the Free Upgrade >> era, you could have installed Win10 over top, and the license key from the >> Dell would be used to authorize the Dell for Win10. And that would be
a way of ensuring, that later, if you moved the original Win10 drive from
the old Dell to the new Dell, it would even activate. But since we're outside
the Free Upgrade era now, that's not going to work. It *might* work, *if*
the previous owner of the new Dell, happened to test install Win10 some years
ago. Then, when your old Win10 drive moved over to the new Dell, it would
activate.
It's a good thing this stuff is simple to understand :-)
That's why for Enterprise, they have Licensing Experts, people
who do nothing but answer questions of that nature, identify
what combination of Snakes and Ladders gets you from A to B.
I think the Dell in your
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426
link, uses an SSD, so the hard drive is NAND flash based and quite
resistant to shock and vibration. Only a heavy video card would need
to be wrapped separately, if anything.
OK, that video card isn't that heavy. But the max power is 60W,
which is at the slot limit (the slot is 75W, but the engineers
usually de-rate a bit and run the vid card design around 60W or so
as a max). There does not seem to be a 2x3 connector on that card,
that I can see.
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393
The card has 1GB of VRAM, which means it couldn't be used for Ethereum.
The previous owner would have played older games on it, if anything.
At the bottom of the Techpowerup page, it says:
Windows 7 / 8.1 / 10:
Catalyst Software Suite 15.7.1 / 16.2.1 Beta
which means there is a potential for drivers.
Paul
I believe your correct with Win7 Pro and we did create the Win 10 Pro
from the free offer and the 22H2 CD's. So the Win 7 clones should work
also correct? The Win 10 hd I took out of the 8500 should work then.
OIC,. it depends if the other computer upgraded with the free Win 10 offerfor it to work.
I bought the computer. So we'll see when it arrives,.. I'll switch it with the 780 and we can play with it. Maybe I should put my Win10 hd in it to start off? or should I finish setting up the existing hd that's in it?
Robert
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:2FfA0e50KzTTTm9jfepVjia8ANIRCFdkjiyNi44lGJ751S4hzvWJwRTF2oAIplnhlQiFZtONzp9oaoIXIJIFt2FwdJZoZkxizmusX41FAFclZ5m0PUAszg1JWu7Mlt%2B5Rr188Rmu9%2F9JVXSfI%2FuRN99zGSFhWr7eGPyABNV7dJ4vqjKa%2FBggAIWOc35Q1IH7ulNgjeVmjMY21hk0e7cVck18WjKjTKi6rHFoK3Enr%
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/20/2025 6:15 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?
Thanks
Robert
the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.
The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10.
If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.
The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.
The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
the card you currently own.
Paul
Just to be clear,... this is the computer your recommending,.. this is the one with Win 10 installed but I have to do the setup and install my A/V suite, Word, Excel Dell Imaging, SeaMonkey, etc. So there's no way a Win 7 Pro hd would run on this ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCK3KWFPMC68P0MN1E&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZJlWHIavwrW1%2BV085MNCNKkZhgrVZO%
I'll ask him to remove the hard drive and video card and pack them
separately and to pack the computer carefully.
I ordered the GT730 video card.
Robert
I think your Win7 is originally the OS from Dell, and that's a Royalty OEM Windows
which activates any time it runs on a Dell. It uses the Dell SLIC table from the
BIOS, to detect it is on a Dell.
This would allow you to move your Win7 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell.
If you moved the Win10 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell, that OS
is a Retail (downloaded) installation as far as I know. In the Free Upgrade >>> era, you could have installed Win10 over top, and the license key from the >>> Dell would be used to authorize the Dell for Win10. And that would be
a way of ensuring, that later, if you moved the original Win10 drive from >>> the old Dell to the new Dell, it would even activate. But since we're outside
the Free Upgrade era now, that's not going to work. It *might* work, *if* >>> the previous owner of the new Dell, happened to test install Win10 some years
ago. Then, when your old Win10 drive moved over to the new Dell, it would >>> activate.
It's a good thing this stuff is simple to understand :-)
That's why for Enterprise, they have Licensing Experts, people
who do nothing but answer questions of that nature, identify
what combination of Snakes and Ladders gets you from A to B.
I think the Dell in your
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426
link, uses an SSD, so the hard drive is NAND flash based and quite
resistant to shock and vibration. Only a heavy video card would need
to be wrapped separately, if anything.
OK, that video card isn't that heavy. But the max power is 60W,
which is at the slot limit (the slot is 75W, but the engineers
usually de-rate a bit and run the vid card design around 60W or so
as a max). There does not seem to be a 2x3 connector on that card,
that I can see.
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393
The card has 1GB of VRAM, which means it couldn't be used for Ethereum.
The previous owner would have played older games on it, if anything.
At the bottom of the Techpowerup page, it says:
Windows 7 / 8.1 / 10:
Catalyst Software Suite 15.7.1 / 16.2.1 Beta
which means there is a potential for drivers.
Paul
I believe your correct with Win7 Pro and we did create the Win 10 Pro
from the free offer and the 22H2 CD's. So the Win 7 clones should work
also correct? The Win 10 hd I took out of the 8500 should work then.
OIC,. it depends if the other computer upgraded with the free Win 10 offerfor it to work.
I bought the computer. So we'll see when it arrives,.. I'll switch it with the 780 and we can play with it. Maybe I should put my Win10 hd in it to start off? or should I finish setting up the existing hd that's in it?
Robert
If it sold with W10 or W11, then there is a good chance your
transplanted Win10 drive would work. If it is transplanted
from the existing 8500, then the drivers should match too.
Only the video driver would be radically different.
If I was doing that (conservative approach to avoid "damage"), my steps would be.
1) Clone old 8500 W10 drive to a temp drive.
2) Boot the temp drive. Go to Programs and Features and
remove the existing video card driver. Now, it is
prepared to run using the Microsoft Basic Display Adapter (VESA driver).
That's the driver that runs on everything, suited to bring-up.
3) Move the clone drive to the new 8500. Boot. It should
show it is Activated, after a couple reboots, and it should
download a 500MB driver for the new video card at some point.
It might take a reboot or two, before the video driver download
starts. In Device Manager, you would note at some point, the
Microsoft Basic Display is replaced by the proprietary driver update.
Once you've waited long enough,
[Admin]
slmgr /dlv
will display whether the W10 clone is still activated.
For the movement of a Win7 disk, there would be
the video card driver issue as well. But, it would be
the user responsibility to load the driver when sitting
in front of the new 8500. You would have
to use the identifying information of the new 8500 video card,
so that you have the latest driver in hand for loading
the new driver. (Windows 7 does not go out and fetch the
video driver automatically like Windows 10 does.) And if the Win7
being moved is a Royalty OEM OS Win7 (Dell), then it should activate
on its own. And it should then pass the same
slmgr /dlv
test.
Paul
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?
For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
or "new old stock" cards.
I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".
Paul
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?
For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
or "new old stock" cards.
I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".
Paul
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?
For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
or "new old stock" cards.
I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".
Paul
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?
For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
or "new old stock" cards.
I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".
Paul
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:2FfA0e50KzTTTm9jfepVjia8ANIRCFdkjiyNi44lGJ751S4hzvWJwRTF2oAIplnhlQiFZtONzp9oaoIXIJIFt2FwdJZoZkxizmusX41FAFclZ5m0PUAszg1JWu7Mlt%2B5Rr188Rmu9%2F9JVXSfI%2FuRN99zGSFhWr7eGPyABNV7dJ4vqjKa%2FBggAIWOc35Q1IH7ulNgjeVmjMY21hk0e7cVck18WjKjTKi6rHFoK3Enr%
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/20/2025 6:15 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:
Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?
Thanks
Robert
the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.
The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10.
If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.
The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.
The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
the card you currently own.
Paul
Just to be clear,... this is the computer your recommending,.. this is the one with Win 10 installed but I have to do the setup and install my A/V suite, Word, Excel Dell Imaging, SeaMonkey, etc. So there's no way a Win 7 Pro hd would run on this ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCK3KWFPMC68P0MN1E&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZJlWHIavwrW1%2BV085MNCNKkZhgrVZO%
I'll ask him to remove the hard drive and video card and pack them
separately and to pack the computer carefully.
I ordered the GT730 video card.
Robert
I think your Win7 is originally the OS from Dell, and that's a Royalty OEM Windows
which activates any time it runs on a Dell. It uses the Dell SLIC table from the
BIOS, to detect it is on a Dell.
This would allow you to move your Win7 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell.
If you moved the Win10 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell, that OS
is a Retail (downloaded) installation as far as I know. In the Free Upgrade >>> era, you could have installed Win10 over top, and the license key from the >>> Dell would be used to authorize the Dell for Win10. And that would be
a way of ensuring, that later, if you moved the original Win10 drive from >>> the old Dell to the new Dell, it would even activate. But since we're outside
the Free Upgrade era now, that's not going to work. It *might* work, *if* >>> the previous owner of the new Dell, happened to test install Win10 some years
ago. Then, when your old Win10 drive moved over to the new Dell, it would >>> activate.
It's a good thing this stuff is simple to understand :-)
That's why for Enterprise, they have Licensing Experts, people
who do nothing but answer questions of that nature, identify
what combination of Snakes and Ladders gets you from A to B.
I think the Dell in your
https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426
link, uses an SSD, so the hard drive is NAND flash based and quite
resistant to shock and vibration. Only a heavy video card would need
to be wrapped separately, if anything.
OK, that video card isn't that heavy. But the max power is 60W,
which is at the slot limit (the slot is 75W, but the engineers
usually de-rate a bit and run the vid card design around 60W or so
as a max). There does not seem to be a 2x3 connector on that card,
that I can see.
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393
The card has 1GB of VRAM, which means it couldn't be used for Ethereum.
The previous owner would have played older games on it, if anything.
At the bottom of the Techpowerup page, it says:
Windows 7 / 8.1 / 10:
Catalyst Software Suite 15.7.1 / 16.2.1 Beta
which means there is a potential for drivers.
Paul
I believe your correct with Win7 Pro and we did create the Win 10 Pro
from the free offer and the 22H2 CD's. So the Win 7 clones should work
also correct? The Win 10 hd I took out of the 8500 should work then.
OIC,. it depends if the other computer upgraded with the free Win 10 offerfor it to work.
I bought the computer. So we'll see when it arrives,.. I'll switch it with the 780 and we can play with it. Maybe I should put my Win10 hd in it to start off? or should I finish setting up the existing hd that's in it?
Robert
If it sold with W10 or W11, then there is a good chance your
transplanted Win10 drive would work. If it is transplanted
from the existing 8500, then the drivers should match too.
Only the video driver would be radically different.
If I was doing that (conservative approach to avoid "damage"), my steps would be.
1) Clone old 8500 W10 drive to a temp drive.
2) Boot the temp drive. Go to Programs and Features and
remove the existing video card driver. Now, it is
prepared to run using the Microsoft Basic Display Adapter (VESA driver).
That's the driver that runs on everything, suited to bring-up.
3) Move the clone drive to the new 8500. Boot. It should
show it is Activated, after a couple reboots, and it should
download a 500MB driver for the new video card at some point.
It might take a reboot or two, before the video driver download
starts. In Device Manager, you would note at some point, the
Microsoft Basic Display is replaced by the proprietary driver update.
Once you've waited long enough,
[Admin]
slmgr /dlv
will display whether the W10 clone is still activated.
For the movement of a Win7 disk, there would be
the video card driver issue as well. But, it would be
the user responsibility to load the driver when sitting
in front of the new 8500. You would have
to use the identifying information of the new 8500 video card,
so that you have the latest driver in hand for loading
the new driver. (Windows 7 does not go out and fetch the
video driver automatically like Windows 10 does.) And if the Win7
being moved is a Royalty OEM OS Win7 (Dell), then it should activate
on its own. And it should then pass the same
slmgr /dlv
test.
Paul
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?
For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
or "new old stock" cards.
I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".
Paul
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?
For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
or "new old stock" cards.
I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?
For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
or "new old stock" cards.
I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".
Paul
I'm having trouble wrapping my head around
what were suppose to do. ,..
I should put my Win10hd back in the 8500
and create a clone using Macrium. Since the
drive has data on it will Macrium ask if I want
to erase it?
Then I'm supposed to put the cloned Win 10 hd
in the new 8500 and let it boot. Am I suppose to
remove it at this point or do I leave it in? Then
you said to go and delete the video card in Programs
and Features and then boot(re-start?) the computer and it
should 'see' the video card.
What I don't understand is the Win10 hd is incapable
with the video card in the new computer so how can
I get into Programs and Features or anything,.. It doesn't
seem that the monitor would work.
I picked up another VT730 card for the new 8500.
So both will have the same video cards.
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?
For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
or "new old stock" cards.
I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".
Paul
I just realized that with the new video cards
I'll have to reconfigure the 8500 Win7 and
Win10 as well. Correct?
Then I should create an mrimg for both.
Hmmmmm so how do I do this? delete the
present video card in Programs and Features
then install the new GT730 video card and
let it boot several times until it recognizes
the card ?
Then on the new 8500 remove the hd and
replace it with the cloned Win10 hd and
delete the video card in Programs and Features
then replace it with the GT730 and reboot
until it recognizes the new video card.
Is that correct?
Then do mrimgs for the new 8500.
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?
For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
or "new old stock" cards.
I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".
Paul
I got the one of the GT730 video cards today and so
I took out the DVI video card in the new 8500 and
put in the GT730 although I had to cut the tabs at
the bottom for it to fit in the two slots.
It powered up rather noisy I thought probably due to
the flimsy hd not even screwed down. It worked but
all I got was this screen:
https://postimg.cc/ZBBbGTVR
The F-keys and mouse didn't seem to respond and there
was a beeping sound at intervals then the screen went
black and I couldn't get it back with my mouse. I had
tried pressing the F12 and F2 keys but nothing happened?
I got no pop-ups regarding the new video card and I kind
of thought I would that the computer recognizes the new
video card.
Once we install a Win 7 or Win 10 hd with the same video
card after we replace the video card in the present 8500 and
create a cloned hard drive then they should work in the new
8500, correct? and of course make mrimgs along the way.
I was also thinking if we can get the 8500 up and running
then I'll need to get another 6TB external hd for it and make
it a simple drive like the others.
Thoughts/suggestions,...
Robert
On Tue, 4/22/2025 2:59 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?
For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
or "new old stock" cards.
I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".
Paul
I'm having trouble wrapping my head around
what were suppose to do. ,..
I should put my Win10hd back in the 8500
and create a clone using Macrium. Since the
drive has data on it will Macrium ask if I want
to erase it?
Then I'm supposed to put the cloned Win 10 hd
in the new 8500 and let it boot. Am I suppose to
remove it at this point or do I leave it in? Then
you said to go and delete the video card in Programs
and Features and then boot(re-start?) the computer and it
should 'see' the video card.
What I don't understand is the Win10 hd is incapable
with the video card in the new computer so how can
I get into Programs and Features or anything,.. It doesn't
seem that the monitor would work.
I picked up another VT730 card for the new 8500.
So both will have the same video cards.
Robert
The two 8500 machines are "almost equal".
When the Win10 boots, it will install drivers for the
differences between the machines. This would include a
new video driver.
When you clone a hard drive, this is for "safety". In case
the move does not go well, the original drive is unharmed.
When you clone a drive, all he original data is erased.
It is erased in a second, by removing the partition table.
While some of the files could be recovered with Photorec,
not all of the files would be recoverable from the "old"
information on the disk. Cloning a drive, does not do a
thorough forensic cleaning.
*******
As a straw man, I will imagine an 8500 has entered the
house right now. The Fedex truck just drove away. My
refurbished 8500 is sitting on the porch.
what do I do first ?
1) Record the license key. That could be with ProduKey
or Magical Jelly Bean. This would be the refurbisher key
that comes with the Microsoft kit the refurbisher uses.
https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/product_cd_key_viewer.html # Download at bottom. Note comments about "AV software interference".
https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/magical_jelly_bean_keyfinder.html # Download links at top
2) Make a backup image of the hard drive that is found inside the new 8500.
This is only for future reference, if any aspect of the machine
needs to be analyzed later. You can make the backup using your
Macrium Rescue CD, version greater than 6.3.1865 . Plug in your
USB external drive and make the backup. Switch off the USB drive after
shutdown, and disconnect it from the machine.
3) Now, You can clone your original Win10 disk, to the disk inside the
new 8500. The original disk could have a data partition full of backups.
You don't need to copy partitions that aren't relevant at the moment.
You can select what partitions should be cloned.
The cloning will erase the "new 8500" disk and put your image on it.
4) Now, boot the "new 8500", with your cloned OS on it. After a couple
reboots, and allowing time for the video driver to install, check
"slmgr /dlv" and see if the license status is "Notification (not licensed)"
or it is licensed.
*******
When the OS does not have a driver for a video card, what does it do ?
1) It installs the Microsoft Basic Display driver. This is a VESA driver,
where just the frame buffer has to work.
2) It starts to download the proper driver, if available.
It will switch to the proper driver, after the download finishes.
However, for brand changes, I prefer to uninstall the original
driver from Programs and Features control panel. There have been occasional problems, when three different brands of video driver are installed,
and a couple of the drivers are no longer in use.
control.exe then "Programs and Features" control panel
Paul
On Fri, 4/25/2025 9:04 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?
For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
or "new old stock" cards.
I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".
Paul
I got the one of the GT730 video cards today and so
I took out the DVI video card in the new 8500 and
put in the GT730 although I had to cut the tabs at
the bottom for it to fit in the two slots.
It powered up rather noisy I thought probably due to
the flimsy hd not even screwed down. It worked but
all I got was this screen:
https://postimg.cc/ZBBbGTVR
The F-keys and mouse didn't seem to respond and there
was a beeping sound at intervals then the screen went
black and I couldn't get it back with my mouse. I had
tried pressing the F12 and F2 keys but nothing happened?
I got no pop-ups regarding the new video card and I kind
of thought I would that the computer recognizes the new
video card.
Once we install a Win 7 or Win 10 hd with the same video
card after we replace the video card in the present 8500 and
create a cloned hard drive then they should work in the new
8500, correct? and of course make mrimgs along the way.
I was also thinking if we can get the 8500 up and running
then I'll need to get another 6TB external hd for it and make
it a simple drive like the others.
Thoughts/suggestions,...
Robert
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393
The HD 7570 is shown in the database, as a full height faceplate
with three connectors. DVI would be one of them, VGA at the top,
and a digital connector in the middle (could be HDMI).
But there are entries for actual cards, showing
different connector configurations are possible.
Dell HD 7570 650 MHz 800 MHz 1x DVI 1x DisplayPort
It's important, when entering info like that in a database, to
either state "DVI-D" or "DVI-I". the first item is digital only no VGA,
the second type, you can use a passive DVI to VGA adapter to get at
the VGA signals. Generally, for VGA to work from the DVI, you will
see the gleam of metal contacts in the cross-shaped portion of the
DVI-I connector.
We know that the Dell has some strange behaviors regarding what is
plugged into the main slot. I think it only allows video cards.
Whether it has attempted to boot and got that far, or it is stopping
and not performing, I can't tell from here. I would think, if it
wanted to complain about the replacement video card, it would do it
earlier before putting up that particular screen.
If you ever purchased a video card before, check the box and see
if there is an adapter for DVI to VGA. But don't plug it in, unless
you have verified the cross-shaped area on the DVI, and the gleam
of metal in the cross, would be VGA is present and it is DVI-I. The
DVI-I is the one that can use a passive adapter.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg
The DisplayPort, if that's what it is, there are DisplayPort to VGA
adapters, that use the +5V power on the DisplayPort to power the
conversion chip.
For adapters, I have
1) DisplayPort to HDMI (active adapter, somewhat obscure)
2) DisplayPort++ to VGA (active adapter, pretty common)
3) HDMI to VGA (active adapter, pretty common)
4) Passive DVI-I to VGA adapter (got a couple in video card boxes)
The DisplayPort++ standard, a cheap passive adapter can convert
that to HDMI. the "++" means that a second protocol hides in it.
For the DisplayPort on the 780, that is not ++ flavored, and
as a consequence, you need the active adapter to make HDMI.
I could even connect (1) to (3) and go from DP to VGA that way.
You could be charged $20 for some of these, or overcharged $100,
so don't be in too much of a rush buying the very first one
you find. The passive items could be on the order of $10.
I would try to get the HD 7570 working, to prove that what
the seller shipped "really works". Take a picture of the faceplate,
so I can guess at what you've got there.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/25/2025 9:04 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?
For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
or "new old stock" cards.
I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet". >>>>
Paul
I got the one of the GT730 video cards today and so
I took out the DVI video card in the new 8500 and
put in the GT730 although I had to cut the tabs at
the bottom for it to fit in the two slots.
It powered up rather noisy I thought probably due to
the flimsy hd not even screwed down. It worked but
all I got was this screen:
https://postimg.cc/ZBBbGTVR
The F-keys and mouse didn't seem to respond and there
was a beeping sound at intervals then the screen went
black and I couldn't get it back with my mouse. I had
tried pressing the F12 and F2 keys but nothing happened?
I got no pop-ups regarding the new video card and I kind
of thought I would that the computer recognizes the new
video card.
Once we install a Win 7 or Win 10 hd with the same video
card after we replace the video card in the present 8500 and
create a cloned hard drive then they should work in the new
8500, correct? and of course make mrimgs along the way.
I was also thinking if we can get the 8500 up and running
then I'll need to get another 6TB external hd for it and make
it a simple drive like the others.
Thoughts/suggestions,...
Robert
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393
The HD 7570 is shown in the database, as a full height faceplate
with three connectors. DVI would be one of them, VGA at the top,
and a digital connector in the middle (could be HDMI).
But there are entries for actual cards, showing
different connector configurations are possible.
Dell HD 7570 650 MHz 800 MHz 1x DVI 1x DisplayPort
It's important, when entering info like that in a database, to
either state "DVI-D" or "DVI-I". the first item is digital only no VGA,
the second type, you can use a passive DVI to VGA adapter to get at
the VGA signals. Generally, for VGA to work from the DVI, you will
see the gleam of metal contacts in the cross-shaped portion of the
DVI-I connector.
We know that the Dell has some strange behaviors regarding what is
plugged into the main slot. I think it only allows video cards.
Whether it has attempted to boot and got that far, or it is stopping
and not performing, I can't tell from here. I would think, if it
wanted to complain about the replacement video card, it would do it
earlier before putting up that particular screen.
If you ever purchased a video card before, check the box and see
if there is an adapter for DVI to VGA. But don't plug it in, unless
you have verified the cross-shaped area on the DVI, and the gleam
of metal in the cross, would be VGA is present and it is DVI-I. The
DVI-I is the one that can use a passive adapter.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg
The DisplayPort, if that's what it is, there are DisplayPort to VGA
adapters, that use the +5V power on the DisplayPort to power the
conversion chip.
For adapters, I have
1) DisplayPort to HDMI (active adapter, somewhat obscure)
2) DisplayPort++ to VGA (active adapter, pretty common)
3) HDMI to VGA (active adapter, pretty common)
4) Passive DVI-I to VGA adapter (got a couple in video card boxes)
The DisplayPort++ standard, a cheap passive adapter can convert
that to HDMI. the "++" means that a second protocol hides in it.
For the DisplayPort on the 780, that is not ++ flavored, and
as a consequence, you need the active adapter to make HDMI.
I could even connect (1) to (3) and go from DP to VGA that way.
You could be charged $20 for some of these, or overcharged $100,
so don't be in too much of a rush buying the very first one
you find. The passive items could be on the order of $10.
I would try to get the HD 7570 working, to prove that what
the seller shipped "really works". Take a picture of the faceplate,
so I can guess at what you've got there.
Paul
The video card came with no adaptors.
So I need to put the old video card back in and buy a adaptor for
the DVI port for VGA monitor?
I found this :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/395079513563
What do you think?
Here's a picture of the hard drive
https://postimg.cc/z3cgDbkG
Thanks,
Robert
On Sat, 4/26/2025 3:05 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/25/2025 9:04 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ? >>>>>
For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
or "new old stock" cards.
I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet". >>>>>
Paul
I got the one of the GT730 video cards today and so
I took out the DVI video card in the new 8500 and
put in the GT730 although I had to cut the tabs at
the bottom for it to fit in the two slots.
It powered up rather noisy I thought probably due to
the flimsy hd not even screwed down. It worked but
all I got was this screen:
https://postimg.cc/ZBBbGTVR
The F-keys and mouse didn't seem to respond and there
was a beeping sound at intervals then the screen went
black and I couldn't get it back with my mouse. I had
tried pressing the F12 and F2 keys but nothing happened?
I got no pop-ups regarding the new video card and I kind
of thought I would that the computer recognizes the new
video card.
Once we install a Win 7 or Win 10 hd with the same video
card after we replace the video card in the present 8500 and
create a cloned hard drive then they should work in the new
8500, correct? and of course make mrimgs along the way.
I was also thinking if we can get the 8500 up and running
then I'll need to get another 6TB external hd for it and make
it a simple drive like the others.
Thoughts/suggestions,...
Robert
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393
The HD 7570 is shown in the database, as a full height faceplate
with three connectors. DVI would be one of them, VGA at the top,
and a digital connector in the middle (could be HDMI).
But there are entries for actual cards, showing
different connector configurations are possible.
Dell HD 7570 650 MHz 800 MHz 1x DVI 1x DisplayPort
It's important, when entering info like that in a database, to
either state "DVI-D" or "DVI-I". the first item is digital only no VGA,
the second type, you can use a passive DVI to VGA adapter to get at
the VGA signals. Generally, for VGA to work from the DVI, you will
see the gleam of metal contacts in the cross-shaped portion of the
DVI-I connector.
We know that the Dell has some strange behaviors regarding what is
plugged into the main slot. I think it only allows video cards.
Whether it has attempted to boot and got that far, or it is stopping
and not performing, I can't tell from here. I would think, if it
wanted to complain about the replacement video card, it would do it
earlier before putting up that particular screen.
If you ever purchased a video card before, check the box and see
if there is an adapter for DVI to VGA. But don't plug it in, unless
you have verified the cross-shaped area on the DVI, and the gleam
of metal in the cross, would be VGA is present and it is DVI-I. The
DVI-I is the one that can use a passive adapter.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg
The DisplayPort, if that's what it is, there are DisplayPort to VGA
adapters, that use the +5V power on the DisplayPort to power the
conversion chip.
For adapters, I have
1) DisplayPort to HDMI (active adapter, somewhat obscure)
2) DisplayPort++ to VGA (active adapter, pretty common)
3) HDMI to VGA (active adapter, pretty common)
4) Passive DVI-I to VGA adapter (got a couple in video card boxes)
The DisplayPort++ standard, a cheap passive adapter can convert
that to HDMI. the "++" means that a second protocol hides in it.
For the DisplayPort on the 780, that is not ++ flavored, and
as a consequence, you need the active adapter to make HDMI.
I could even connect (1) to (3) and go from DP to VGA that way.
You could be charged $20 for some of these, or overcharged $100,
so don't be in too much of a rush buying the very first one
you find. The passive items could be on the order of $10.
I would try to get the HD 7570 working, to prove that what
the seller shipped "really works". Take a picture of the faceplate,
so I can guess at what you've got there.
Paul
The video card came with no adaptors.
So I need to put the old video card back in and buy a adaptor for
the DVI port for VGA monitor?
I found this :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/395079513563
What do you think?
Here's a picture of the hard drive
https://postimg.cc/z3cgDbkG
Thanks,
Robert
First, you have to *compare* the connectors, to my picture,
and tell me whether the DVI connector is DVI-D ("no cross")
or is DVI-I (has the metal cross on one end == VGA). That's
why I took pictures, and arranged the adaptable DVI-I one, to be
right next to the adapter for the passive adaptation (no chip
inside the two connectors). There has to be a hole for the cross,
for the passive adapter with the cross on it, to plug in.
https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg
You cannot buy an adapter, if the male cross on the adapter,
has no place to plug on the ("blocked off") cross section of a
DVI-D. The adapter only works with a DVI-I connector.
To adapt any other connector on the card, would take
an "active " HDMI to VGA or an "active" DisplayPort to VGA.
VGA resolution does not go all that high, and 2048x2048
is about as big as it gets on VGA. It's not even close to 4K
resolution on VGA. VGA might do 2048x2048, but usually less
than that, and it works all the way down to 640x480 (what
the computer used to use). I have "a slight preference" for
the usage of HDMI to VGA adapters with NVidia cards, but the
HD7570 is an AMD card.
*******
The Mushkin doesn't have a toolbox software and instead, we
would use CrystalDiskInfo from the guy in Japan. It has
a "Percent Good" in the upper left corner, which shows how much
life is left in the SSD.
https://sourceforge.net/projects/crystaldiskinfo/files/9.5.0/CrystalDiskInfo9_5_0.zip/download
Name: CrystalDiskInfo9_5_0.zip
Size: 7,754,380 bytes (7572 KiB)
SHA256: 63490DEAF5F3E0BFD33E3C421A481858D9A7E11CC286A761AC63C61DFA03EE34
You unpack the ZIP in your downloads folder, and then go into the folder
and run the DiskInfo64.exe file. The percent good is in the upper left corner.
That percentage is related to wear life. 100% is no wear. 0% means any
writes at that point, could be corrupted. There is no guarantee of accurate storage, when it hits 0% remaining.
Name: DiskInfo64.exe
Size: 2,826,784 bytes (2760 KiB)
SHA256: F2E3B31B83CC4BA2D787C2DE0BE42B0A5A3701DE0F4C78ABE56090EE377714CF
Paul
On Sat, 4/26/2025 3:05 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/25/2025 9:04 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ? >>>>>
For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
or "new old stock" cards.
I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet". >>>>>
Paul
I got the one of the GT730 video cards today and so
I took out the DVI video card in the new 8500 and
put in the GT730 although I had to cut the tabs at
the bottom for it to fit in the two slots.
It powered up rather noisy I thought probably due to
the flimsy hd not even screwed down. It worked but
all I got was this screen:
https://postimg.cc/ZBBbGTVR
The F-keys and mouse didn't seem to respond and there
was a beeping sound at intervals then the screen went
black and I couldn't get it back with my mouse. I had
tried pressing the F12 and F2 keys but nothing happened?
I got no pop-ups regarding the new video card and I kind
of thought I would that the computer recognizes the new
video card.
Once we install a Win 7 or Win 10 hd with the same video
card after we replace the video card in the present 8500 and
create a cloned hard drive then they should work in the new
8500, correct? and of course make mrimgs along the way.
I was also thinking if we can get the 8500 up and running
then I'll need to get another 6TB external hd for it and make
it a simple drive like the others.
Thoughts/suggestions,...
Robert
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393
The HD 7570 is shown in the database, as a full height faceplate
with three connectors. DVI would be one of them, VGA at the top,
and a digital connector in the middle (could be HDMI).
But there are entries for actual cards, showing
different connector configurations are possible.
Dell HD 7570 650 MHz 800 MHz 1x DVI 1x DisplayPort
It's important, when entering info like that in a database, to
either state "DVI-D" or "DVI-I". the first item is digital only no VGA,
the second type, you can use a passive DVI to VGA adapter to get at
the VGA signals. Generally, for VGA to work from the DVI, you will
see the gleam of metal contacts in the cross-shaped portion of the
DVI-I connector.
We know that the Dell has some strange behaviors regarding what is
plugged into the main slot. I think it only allows video cards.
Whether it has attempted to boot and got that far, or it is stopping
and not performing, I can't tell from here. I would think, if it
wanted to complain about the replacement video card, it would do it
earlier before putting up that particular screen.
If you ever purchased a video card before, check the box and see
if there is an adapter for DVI to VGA. But don't plug it in, unless
you have verified the cross-shaped area on the DVI, and the gleam
of metal in the cross, would be VGA is present and it is DVI-I. The
DVI-I is the one that can use a passive adapter.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg
The DisplayPort, if that's what it is, there are DisplayPort to VGA
adapters, that use the +5V power on the DisplayPort to power the
conversion chip.
For adapters, I have
1) DisplayPort to HDMI (active adapter, somewhat obscure)
2) DisplayPort++ to VGA (active adapter, pretty common)
3) HDMI to VGA (active adapter, pretty common)
4) Passive DVI-I to VGA adapter (got a couple in video card boxes)
The DisplayPort++ standard, a cheap passive adapter can convert
that to HDMI. the "++" means that a second protocol hides in it.
For the DisplayPort on the 780, that is not ++ flavored, and
as a consequence, you need the active adapter to make HDMI.
I could even connect (1) to (3) and go from DP to VGA that way.
You could be charged $20 for some of these, or overcharged $100,
so don't be in too much of a rush buying the very first one
you find. The passive items could be on the order of $10.
I would try to get the HD 7570 working, to prove that what
the seller shipped "really works". Take a picture of the faceplate,
so I can guess at what you've got there.
Paul
The video card came with no adaptors.
So I need to put the old video card back in and buy a adaptor for
the DVI port for VGA monitor?
I found this :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/395079513563
What do you think?
Here's a picture of the hard drive
https://postimg.cc/z3cgDbkG
Thanks,
Robert
First, you have to *compare* the connectors, to my picture,
and tell me whether the DVI connector is DVI-D ("no cross")
or is DVI-I (has the metal cross on one end == VGA). That's
why I took pictures, and arranged the adaptable DVI-I one, to be
right next to the adapter for the passive adaptation (no chip
inside the two connectors). There has to be a hole for the cross,
for the passive adapter with the cross on it, to plug in.
https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg
You cannot buy an adapter, if the male cross on the adapter,
has no place to plug on the ("blocked off") cross section of a
DVI-D. The adapter only works with a DVI-I connector.
To adapt any other connector on the card, would take
an "active " HDMI to VGA or an "active" DisplayPort to VGA.
VGA resolution does not go all that high, and 2048x2048
is about as big as it gets on VGA. It's not even close to 4K
resolution on VGA. VGA might do 2048x2048, but usually less
than that, and it works all the way down to 640x480 (what
the computer used to use). I have "a slight preference" for
the usage of HDMI to VGA adapters with NVidia cards, but the
HD7570 is an AMD card.
*******
The Mushkin doesn't have a toolbox software and instead, we
would use CrystalDiskInfo from the guy in Japan. It has
a "Percent Good" in the upper left corner, which shows how much
life is left in the SSD.
https://sourceforge.net/projects/crystaldiskinfo/files/9.5.0/CrystalDiskInfo9_5_0.zip/download
Name: CrystalDiskInfo9_5_0.zip
Size: 7,754,380 bytes (7572 KiB)
SHA256: 63490DEAF5F3E0BFD33E3C421A481858D9A7E11CC286A761AC63C61DFA03EE34
You unpack the ZIP in your downloads folder, and then go into the folder
and run the DiskInfo64.exe file. The percent good is in the upper left corner.
That percentage is related to wear life. 100% is no wear. 0% means any
writes at that point, could be corrupted. There is no guarantee of accurate storage, when it hits 0% remaining.
Name: DiskInfo64.exe
Size: 2,826,784 bytes (2760 KiB)
SHA256: F2E3B31B83CC4BA2D787C2DE0BE42B0A5A3701DE0F4C78ABE56090EE377714CF
Paul
On Sat, 4/26/2025 3:05 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Fri, 4/25/2025 9:04 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.
I have a
1TB Win 7 Pro hd
Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
old 8500 2TB external hd
old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
guessing they are 2TB.
We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
I don't use them anymore.
Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?
Thanks,
Robert
What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ? >>>>>
For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
or "new old stock" cards.
I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet". >>>>>
Paul
I got the one of the GT730 video cards today and so
I took out the DVI video card in the new 8500 and
put in the GT730 although I had to cut the tabs at
the bottom for it to fit in the two slots.
It powered up rather noisy I thought probably due to
the flimsy hd not even screwed down. It worked but
all I got was this screen:
https://postimg.cc/ZBBbGTVR
The F-keys and mouse didn't seem to respond and there
was a beeping sound at intervals then the screen went
black and I couldn't get it back with my mouse. I had
tried pressing the F12 and F2 keys but nothing happened?
I got no pop-ups regarding the new video card and I kind
of thought I would that the computer recognizes the new
video card.
Once we install a Win 7 or Win 10 hd with the same video
card after we replace the video card in the present 8500 and
create a cloned hard drive then they should work in the new
8500, correct? and of course make mrimgs along the way.
I was also thinking if we can get the 8500 up and running
then I'll need to get another 6TB external hd for it and make
it a simple drive like the others.
Thoughts/suggestions,...
Robert
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393
The HD 7570 is shown in the database, as a full height faceplate
with three connectors. DVI would be one of them, VGA at the top,
and a digital connector in the middle (could be HDMI).
But there are entries for actual cards, showing
different connector configurations are possible.
Dell HD 7570 650 MHz 800 MHz 1x DVI 1x DisplayPort
It's important, when entering info like that in a database, to
either state "DVI-D" or "DVI-I". the first item is digital only no VGA,
the second type, you can use a passive DVI to VGA adapter to get at
the VGA signals. Generally, for VGA to work from the DVI, you will
see the gleam of metal contacts in the cross-shaped portion of the
DVI-I connector.
We know that the Dell has some strange behaviors regarding what is
plugged into the main slot. I think it only allows video cards.
Whether it has attempted to boot and got that far, or it is stopping
and not performing, I can't tell from here. I would think, if it
wanted to complain about the replacement video card, it would do it
earlier before putting up that particular screen.
If you ever purchased a video card before, check the box and see
if there is an adapter for DVI to VGA. But don't plug it in, unless
you have verified the cross-shaped area on the DVI, and the gleam
of metal in the cross, would be VGA is present and it is DVI-I. The
DVI-I is the one that can use a passive adapter.
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg
The DisplayPort, if that's what it is, there are DisplayPort to VGA
adapters, that use the +5V power on the DisplayPort to power the
conversion chip.
For adapters, I have
1) DisplayPort to HDMI (active adapter, somewhat obscure)
2) DisplayPort++ to VGA (active adapter, pretty common)
3) HDMI to VGA (active adapter, pretty common)
4) Passive DVI-I to VGA adapter (got a couple in video card boxes)
The DisplayPort++ standard, a cheap passive adapter can convert
that to HDMI. the "++" means that a second protocol hides in it.
For the DisplayPort on the 780, that is not ++ flavored, and
as a consequence, you need the active adapter to make HDMI.
I could even connect (1) to (3) and go from DP to VGA that way.
You could be charged $20 for some of these, or overcharged $100,
so don't be in too much of a rush buying the very first one
you find. The passive items could be on the order of $10.
I would try to get the HD 7570 working, to prove that what
the seller shipped "really works". Take a picture of the faceplate,
so I can guess at what you've got there.
Paul
The video card came with no adaptors.
So I need to put the old video card back in and buy a adaptor for
the DVI port for VGA monitor?
I found this :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/395079513563
What do you think?
Here's a picture of the hard drive
https://postimg.cc/z3cgDbkG
Thanks,
Robert
First, you have to *compare* the connectors, to my picture,
and tell me whether the DVI connector is DVI-D ("no cross")
or is DVI-I (has the metal cross on one end == VGA). That's
why I took pictures, and arranged the adaptable DVI-I one, to be
right next to the adapter for the passive adaptation (no chip
inside the two connectors). There has to be a hole for the cross,
for the passive adapter with the cross on it, to plug in.
https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg
You cannot buy an adapter, if the male cross on the adapter,
has no place to plug on the ("blocked off") cross section of a
DVI-D. The adapter only works with a DVI-I connector.
To adapt any other connector on the card, would take
an "active " HDMI to VGA or an "active" DisplayPort to VGA.
VGA resolution does not go all that high, and 2048x2048
is about as big as it gets on VGA. It's not even close to 4K
resolution on VGA. VGA might do 2048x2048, but usually less
than that, and it works all the way down to 640x480 (what
the computer used to use). I have "a slight preference" for
the usage of HDMI to VGA adapters with NVidia cards, but the
HD7570 is an AMD card.
*******
The Mushkin doesn't have a toolbox software and instead, we
would use CrystalDiskInfo from the guy in Japan. It has
a "Percent Good" in the upper left corner, which shows how much
life is left in the SSD.
https://sourceforge.net/projects/crystaldiskinfo/files/9.5.0/CrystalDiskInfo9_5_0.zip/download
Name: CrystalDiskInfo9_5_0.zip
Size: 7,754,380 bytes (7572 KiB)
SHA256: 63490DEAF5F3E0BFD33E3C421A481858D9A7E11CC286A761AC63C61DFA03EE34
You unpack the ZIP in your downloads folder, and then go into the folder
and run the DiskInfo64.exe file. The percent good is in the upper left corner.
That percentage is related to wear life. 100% is no wear. 0% means any
writes at that point, could be corrupted. There is no guarantee of accurate storage, when it hits 0% remaining.
Name: DiskInfo64.exe
Size: 2,826,784 bytes (2760 KiB)
SHA256: F2E3B31B83CC4BA2D787C2DE0BE42B0A5A3701DE0F4C78ABE56090EE377714CF
Paul
The other GT730 came today but this one had all
the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.
Robert
On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
The other GT730 came today but this one had all
the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.
Robert
When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector.
Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
is the "not-compatible" case.
Paul
On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
The other GT730 came today but this one had all
the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.
Robert
When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector.
Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
is the "not-compatible" case.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
The other GT730 came today but this one had all
the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.
Robert
When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector.
Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
is the "not-compatible" case.
Paul
The adapter was supposed to have arrived on Monday and I've
waited all week and it still isn't here. I notified the seller and
they said its on it way but I'm tired of waiting. I just ordered
another.
I also checked into external hard drives for the new 8500
they don't offer a 6TB anymore, only 4TB and 8TB so I would
have to get the 8TB but for now I'll use the old 2TB WD external.
https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st2000dm001-2tb/p/N82E16822148834#
Robert
RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
The other GT730 came today but this one had all
the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.
Robert
When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector. >>>
Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
is the "not-compatible" case.
Paul
The adapter was supposed to have arrived on Monday and I've
waited all week and it still isn't here. I notified the seller and
they said its on it way but I'm tired of waiting. I just ordered
another.
I also checked into external hard drives for the new 8500
they don't offer a 6TB anymore, only 4TB and 8TB so I would
have to get the 8TB but for now I'll use the old 2TB WD external.
https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st2000dm001-2tb/p/N82E16822148834#
Robert
In passing, I was apparently using a trial base
premium malewarebytes because I got a message
saying my coverage was ending. When it ended I
selected the free option and my score went from 90
to 72 instantly. So I wonder how much is just marketing
Robert
On Thu, 5/8/2025 5:30 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
The other GT730 came today but this one had all
the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.
Robert
When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector. >>>>
Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
is the "not-compatible" case.
Paul
The adapter was supposed to have arrived on Monday and I've
waited all week and it still isn't here. I notified the seller and
they said its on it way but I'm tired of waiting. I just ordered
another.
I also checked into external hard drives for the new 8500
they don't offer a 6TB anymore, only 4TB and 8TB so I would
have to get the 8TB but for now I'll use the old 2TB WD external.
https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st2000dm001-2tb/p/N82E16822148834#
Robert
In passing, I was apparently using a trial base
premium malewarebytes because I got a message
saying my coverage was ending. When it ended I
selected the free option and my score went from 90
to 72 instantly. So I wonder how much is just marketing
Robert
On your AV, that sounds like marketing to me :-)
*******
As for the hard drive selection, even the Newegg selection
is looking pretty thin, on actual quality drives. The idea
is not to buy shingled (SMR) drives, because the write speed
is a fraction of the read speed. If the read was at 100,
the write would be at 66. Whereas PMR (CMR), which
stands for Perpendicular Magnetic Storage its real name,
or Conventional Magnetic storage to try to confuse people,
if that type reads at 100, it writes at 100 as well.
PMR (CMR) is the "no-tricks" drive type.
WD Red Pro 6TB (holes in wrong place) WD6005FFBX $210
https://www.newegg.com/red-pro-wd6005ffbx-6tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822234561
WD Black 6TB (holes OK for tray mount) WD6004FZBX $170
https://www.newegg.com/black-wd6004fzbx-6tb/p/N82E16822234559
Seagate BarraCuda NE-ST8000DM004 8TB 5400 RPM 256MB Cache $110 SMR [datasheet] (unsteady write rate)
https://www.newegg.com/seagate-barracuda-ne-st8000dm004-8tb-hard-drive-for-daily-computing-5400-rpm/p/N82E16822183793
Seagate IronWolf Pro ST8000NT001 8TB 7200 RPM 256MB Cache $220 CMR (hole location hard to verify, is likely OK, a bit warm)
https://www.newegg.com/seagate-ironwolf-pro-st8000nt001-8tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822185077
The Seagate for $110, would still work for backups. It would
not make a particularly good boot drive.
There's just no way to predict which one of these things will thump.
The 18TB helium drive thumps. A 4TB Seagate thumps. The 6TB Black was reasonably quiet. The thump may be part of self test. but it is
annoying when you're doing a backup, the write should be sequential
and quiet, and there is a thump once a second. I've had drives that
did it and drives that did not do it, and it is hard to detect
a "theme" suitable for predicting model noise level on an unknown
drive model.
Paul
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 5/8/2025 5:30 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
The other GT730 came today but this one had all
the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.
Robert
When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector. >>>>>
Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
is the "not-compatible" case.
Paul
The adapter was supposed to have arrived on Monday and I've
waited all week and it still isn't here. I notified the seller and
they said its on it way but I'm tired of waiting. I just ordered
another.
I also checked into external hard drives for the new 8500
they don't offer a 6TB anymore, only 4TB and 8TB so I would
have to get the 8TB but for now I'll use the old 2TB WD external.
https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st2000dm001-2tb/p/N82E16822148834#
Robert
In passing, I was apparently using a trial base
premium malewarebytes because I got a message
saying my coverage was ending. When it ended I
selected the free option and my score went from 90
to 72 instantly. So I wonder how much is just marketing
Robert
On your AV, that sounds like marketing to me :-)
*******
As for the hard drive selection, even the Newegg selection
is looking pretty thin, on actual quality drives. The idea
is not to buy shingled (SMR) drives, because the write speed
is a fraction of the read speed. If the read was at 100,
the write would be at 66. Whereas PMR (CMR), which
stands for Perpendicular Magnetic Storage its real name,
or Conventional Magnetic storage to try to confuse people,
if that type reads at 100, it writes at 100 as well.
PMR (CMR) is the "no-tricks" drive type.
WD Red Pro 6TB (holes in wrong place) WD6005FFBX $210
https://www.newegg.com/red-pro-wd6005ffbx-6tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822234561
WD Black 6TB (holes OK for tray mount) WD6004FZBX $170
https://www.newegg.com/black-wd6004fzbx-6tb/p/N82E16822234559
Seagate BarraCuda NE-ST8000DM004 8TB 5400 RPM 256MB Cache $110 SMR [datasheet] (unsteady write rate)
https://www.newegg.com/seagate-barracuda-ne-st8000dm004-8tb-hard-drive-for-daily-computing-5400-rpm/p/N82E16822183793
Seagate IronWolf Pro ST8000NT001 8TB 7200 RPM 256MB Cache $220 CMR (hole location hard to verify, is likely OK, a bit warm)
https://www.newegg.com/seagate-ironwolf-pro-st8000nt001-8tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822185077
The Seagate for $110, would still work for backups. It would
not make a particularly good boot drive.
There's just no way to predict which one of these things will thump.
The 18TB helium drive thumps. A 4TB Seagate thumps. The 6TB Black was
reasonably quiet. The thump may be part of self test. but it is
annoying when you're doing a backup, the write should be sequential
and quiet, and there is a thump once a second. I've had drives that
did it and drives that did not do it, and it is hard to detect
a "theme" suitable for predicting model noise level on an unknown
drive model.
Paul
Yeah I thought it strange the A/V going from 90 to 72 instantly...
I think the Seagate Barracuda sounds like a good choice for the
external hd for the new 8500. I've used all Seagate drives throughout
because they are all quiet and reliable.
Can I still use the same external case?
https://www.newegg.com/vantec-nst-387s3-bk-enclosure/p/N82E16817392118
In passing, I checked the WD external hd but I when I clicked
restore there was no browse option. It was below and to the left,..
so I clicked it and changed the drive letter to Z but I couldn't
remember how to dismount it. So I restarted the computer
and now it's a X? Did I screw it up?
https://postimg.cc/Xr025zz8
https://postimg.cc/4n9b11tF
https://postimg.cc/D4kGNtsp
Robert
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 5/8/2025 5:30 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
The other GT730 came today but this one had all
the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.
Robert
When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector. >>>>>
Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
is the "not-compatible" case.
Paul
The adapter was supposed to have arrived on Monday and I've
waited all week and it still isn't here. I notified the seller and
they said its on it way but I'm tired of waiting. I just ordered
another.
I also checked into external hard drives for the new 8500
they don't offer a 6TB anymore, only 4TB and 8TB so I would
have to get the 8TB but for now I'll use the old 2TB WD external.
https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st2000dm001-2tb/p/N82E16822148834#
Robert
In passing, I was apparently using a trial base
premium malewarebytes because I got a message
saying my coverage was ending. When it ended I
selected the free option and my score went from 90
to 72 instantly. So I wonder how much is just marketing
Robert
On your AV, that sounds like marketing to me :-)
*******
As for the hard drive selection, even the Newegg selection
is looking pretty thin, on actual quality drives. The idea
is not to buy shingled (SMR) drives, because the write speed
is a fraction of the read speed. If the read was at 100,
the write would be at 66. Whereas PMR (CMR), which
stands for Perpendicular Magnetic Storage its real name,
or Conventional Magnetic storage to try to confuse people,
if that type reads at 100, it writes at 100 as well.
PMR (CMR) is the "no-tricks" drive type.
WD Red Pro 6TB (holes in wrong place) WD6005FFBX $210
https://www.newegg.com/red-pro-wd6005ffbx-6tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822234561
WD Black 6TB (holes OK for tray mount) WD6004FZBX $170
https://www.newegg.com/black-wd6004fzbx-6tb/p/N82E16822234559
Seagate BarraCuda NE-ST8000DM004 8TB 5400 RPM 256MB Cache $110 SMR [datasheet] (unsteady write rate)
https://www.newegg.com/seagate-barracuda-ne-st8000dm004-8tb-hard-drive-for-daily-computing-5400-rpm/p/N82E16822183793
Seagate IronWolf Pro ST8000NT001 8TB 7200 RPM 256MB Cache $220 CMR (hole location hard to verify, is likely OK, a bit warm)
https://www.newegg.com/seagate-ironwolf-pro-st8000nt001-8tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822185077
The Seagate for $110, would still work for backups. It would
not make a particularly good boot drive.
There's just no way to predict which one of these things will thump.
The 18TB helium drive thumps. A 4TB Seagate thumps. The 6TB Black was
reasonably quiet. The thump may be part of self test. but it is
annoying when you're doing a backup, the write should be sequential
and quiet, and there is a thump once a second. I've had drives that
did it and drives that did not do it, and it is hard to detect
a "theme" suitable for predicting model noise level on an unknown
drive model.
Paul
Yeah I thought it strange the A/V going from 90 to 72 instantly...
I think the Seagate Barracuda sounds like a good choice for the
external hd for the new 8500. I've used all Seagate drives throughout
because they are all quiet and reliable.
Can I still use the same external case?
https://www.newegg.com/vantec-nst-387s3-bk-enclosure/p/N82E16817392118
In passing, I checked the WD external hd but I when I clicked
restore there was no browse option. It was below and to the left,..
so I clicked it and changed the drive letter to Z but I couldn't
remember how to dismount it. So I restarted the computer
and now it's a X? Did I screw it up?
https://postimg.cc/Xr025zz8
https://postimg.cc/4n9b11tF
https://postimg.cc/D4kGNtsp
Robert
mountvol
On Fri, 5/9/2025 6:50 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Thu, 5/8/2025 5:30 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
RobnCA wrote:
Paul wrote:
On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
The other GT730 came today but this one had all
the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.
Robert
When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector. >>>>>>
Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
is the "not-compatible" case.
Paul
The adapter was supposed to have arrived on Monday and I've
waited all week and it still isn't here. I notified the seller and
they said its on it way but I'm tired of waiting. I just ordered
another.
I also checked into external hard drives for the new 8500
they don't offer a 6TB anymore, only 4TB and 8TB so I would
have to get the 8TB but for now I'll use the old 2TB WD external.
https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st2000dm001-2tb/p/N82E16822148834#
Robert
In passing, I was apparently using a trial base
premium malewarebytes because I got a message
saying my coverage was ending. When it ended I
selected the free option and my score went from 90
to 72 instantly. So I wonder how much is just marketing
Robert
On your AV, that sounds like marketing to me :-)
*******
As for the hard drive selection, even the Newegg selection
is looking pretty thin, on actual quality drives. The idea
is not to buy shingled (SMR) drives, because the write speed
is a fraction of the read speed. If the read was at 100,
the write would be at 66. Whereas PMR (CMR), which
stands for Perpendicular Magnetic Storage its real name,
or Conventional Magnetic storage to try to confuse people,
if that type reads at 100, it writes at 100 as well.
PMR (CMR) is the "no-tricks" drive type.
WD Red Pro 6TB (holes in wrong place) WD6005FFBX $210
https://www.newegg.com/red-pro-wd6005ffbx-6tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822234561
WD Black 6TB (holes OK for tray mount) WD6004FZBX $170
https://www.newegg.com/black-wd6004fzbx-6tb/p/N82E16822234559
Seagate BarraCuda NE-ST8000DM004 8TB 5400 RPM 256MB Cache $110 SMR [datasheet] (unsteady write rate)
https://www.newegg.com/seagate-barracuda-ne-st8000dm004-8tb-hard-drive-for-daily-computing-5400-rpm/p/N82E16822183793
Seagate IronWolf Pro ST8000NT001 8TB 7200 RPM 256MB Cache $220 CMR (hole location hard to verify, is likely OK, a bit warm)
https://www.newegg.com/seagate-ironwolf-pro-st8000nt001-8tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822185077
The Seagate for $110, would still work for backups. It would
not make a particularly good boot drive.
There's just no way to predict which one of these things will thump.
The 18TB helium drive thumps. A 4TB Seagate thumps. The 6TB Black was
reasonably quiet. The thump may be part of self test. but it is
annoying when you're doing a backup, the write should be sequential
and quiet, and there is a thump once a second. I've had drives that
did it and drives that did not do it, and it is hard to detect
a "theme" suitable for predicting model noise level on an unknown
drive model.
Paul
Yeah I thought it strange the A/V going from 90 to 72 instantly...
I think the Seagate Barracuda sounds like a good choice for the
external hd for the new 8500. I've used all Seagate drives throughout
because they are all quiet and reliable.
Can I still use the same external case?
https://www.newegg.com/vantec-nst-387s3-bk-enclosure/p/N82E16817392118
In passing, I checked the WD external hd but I when I clicked
restore there was no browse option. It was below and to the left,..
so I clicked it and changed the drive letter to Z but I couldn't
remember how to dismount it. So I restarted the computer
and now it's a X? Did I screw it up?
https://postimg.cc/Xr025zz8
https://postimg.cc/4n9b11tF
https://postimg.cc/D4kGNtsp
Robert
Sorry, I was a bit distracted yesterday. Was running around a bit.
This is info on your enclosure.
https://www.newegg.com/vantec-nst-387s3-bk-enclosure/p/N82E16817392118
"HDD Capacity: Up to 16TB" <=== that means they've tested with that large of a drive
*******
Drive letter assignments made while in the Macrium Rescue environment,
are not persistent. And X: happens to be the Macrium Rescue CD OS partition, for as long as the CD is booted, so the machine is unlikely to "donate X"
to you, while the CD is booted.
Drive letters are stored in the running OS registry. They are not even
stored on the individual partition headers.
mountvol
Possible values for VolumeName along with current mount points are:
\\?\Volume{0bd6166a-0836-4041-891c-792df2c72abd}\
C:\ <=== Win11 OS
\\?\Volume{c3bc5ab1-c5f0-4dae-838c-751ef868e237}\ <=== Hidden recovery partition
*** NO MOUNT POINTS ***
\\?\Volume{bd4d69bc-6fbb-4f12-b804-f32c6b9e828c}\ <=== Win10 OS
H:\
\\?\Volume{af386bcf-16c0-483f-a84b-b310cc27c8e8}\ <=== Hidden recovery partition
*** NO MOUNT POINTS ***
\\?\Volume{4f8397da-61df-4a97-b913-9bd526c13c9a}\ <=== Data partition "SHARED", never defragmented, on SSD
S:\
\\?\Volume{8d5a14be-87fc-459b-afb1-8959cb4d727a}\ <=== ??? not sure where this is coming from...
*** NO MOUNT POINTS ***
The individual partition header lists the file system type, but the
volume name is stored in the $MFT (master file table) or so,
in the $VOLUME entry. I found an article the other day,
that claimed the NTFS volume name could be roughly dead reckoned
just from initial address assigned for the master file table
(it's about 3GB down, but only on "huge" NTFS partitions).
And the guy was right. I scrolled down that far, and there it was.
The name of my data partition. But this does not imply that
finding the partition name in an emergency situation, would
be that easy. You would have to do a couple steps to work out
where it was on, say, a hard drive that had been defragmented.
I thought it humorous though, that his guess was spot on,
for where the $MFT would be (assuming it never got moved of course).
[Picture]
https://i.postimg.cc/L4JvkGnx/Finding-VOLUME-name-like-lottery-win.gif
This scheme has just too many of those stupid numbers...
They could have taken lessons from Apple, on a few things.
It's not the complexity that matters, it's that ordinary
users have to "bob for apples" in this stuff, to get their
data back. I have a case in another group, of a guy whose
external disk had gone ka-flooy, and haven't heard back
what a scan shows for the contents yet. I'm sure his data
is all there, it's just a matter of gluing it back together :-)
Paul
Wow,.. I feel sorry for the guy with the bad external hd.
What do you think happened? That's why I bought the 8500 and
soon another external hd,, redundancy never hurts. :)
Robert
On Sat, 5/10/2025 2:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:
Wow,.. I feel sorry for the guy with the bad external hd.
What do you think happened? That's why I bought the 8500 and
soon another external hd,, redundancy never hurts. :)
Robert
It looks like damage from a third-party partition management utility.
Disk Management did not do that.
But until he comes back, and indicates what a TestDisk scan
shows, it's hard to say what will happen next.
Normally, partition management utilities do not make mistakes
like that. That is the part that is puzzling. Potentially,
it is two errors in a row, an improperly prepared GPT initialization, followed by a bug in the partition management software. It would
take two errors to get that far into the soup.
Paul
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