• O.T. - Atten Paul - Firefox not responding

    From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Sep 7 22:01:25 2023
    I have a Dell XPS 8500, with Windows 7 Professional, SP1,
    with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender
    and Windows firewall.

    (2) TB HD
    Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB
    Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5"
    Internal Hard Drive

    I also have

    I have a Dell Optiplex 780 Tower, with Windows 7 Professional,
    SP1, with Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast , Windows Defender
    and Windows firewall.

    Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB
    Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5"
    System type : 64-bit operating system

    and (external hard drives)

    (8500)

    Seagate Desktop HDD ST6000DM001 6TB 128MB
    Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5"
    System type : 64-bit operating system

    (780)
    Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 2TB 64MB
    Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5"
    Internal Hard Drive

    This concerns the 8500, for some reason it just stopped responding
    in Firefox. I ended the process and thought it had recovered but it
    continued to have problems. I restarted it and the problem continues.
    I shut down the computer in hopes that would clear it. Word, Paintbrush,
    and Dell imaging came up fine but Firefox took a long time for the drivers
    to load and at first it seemed ok but it again it stopped responding. I had
    to press the start button to power it off because Task Manager would not function.

    Again it seems fine so far but I'm concerned Firefox will stop responding again. What's causing this?

    I had no issues prior to this and haven't downloaded anything.

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Sep 7 22:37:34 2023
    I think I may have found the answer. I leave Fire fox unused
    for long periods because I take breaks and it doesn't like that.
    So that may be my answer but I would appreciate your thoughts.

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Sep 8 16:45:08 2023
    It happened again ,, aII I had open was FF and Word
    and it stopped responding. Again the bIue circIe was
    preset and I couIdn't access Task Manager. I seIected
    to power off again. ShouId I try a System Restore or
    Mrimg Restore?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Sep 8 16:19:40 2023
    The 8500 did it again and this time I just went to heat
    my coffee in the microwave and when I came back the
    screen was not responding. I tried closing the pages but
    it didn't work and the round blue busy light was on. I
    tried Task Manager but it didn't come up.

    I clicked the start button to try and restart it and it came up
    with a message about it unable to do a Ctrl-Alt-Del. I
    opted to shut it down. It came back up with no issues so far.

    What's causing FF/computer to not to respond and lock up?

    Thoughts/Suggestions?
    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Sep 8 23:43:49 2023
    It happened again and this time there was a buzzing sound.
    I forgot to mention it did that it did that before as weII.
    After pushing ESC the screen went back and gave me the ctr-aIt-deI
    message again. I have to keep pressing Esc to access the Start button
    to try and restart it or shut it off but its not responding.

    What's causing this? It was fine yesterday. Am I Ioosing the 8500?

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Sep 9 00:36:20 2023
    The 8500 starts normally with no issues, and I
    can load Word, Paintbrush and Dell imaging
    with no problems and it works just fine.

    The problems start when I open FF, it seems OK
    at first then while halfway through a news story
    or video it will stop responding.

    Why should it all of a sudden have a problem with
    FF? I checked for updates and I'm up to date. All the
    scans show nothing at all and I haven't done anything
    to cause this. It just came out of no where like most of
    my computer problems.


    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Sep 9 00:34:29 2023
    The 8500 starts normally with no issues, and I
    can load Word, Paintbrush and Dell imaging
    with no problems and ti works just fine.

    The problems start when I open FF, it seems OK
    at first then while halfway through a news story
    or video it will stop responding.

    Why should it all of a sudden have a problem with
    FF? I checked for updates and I'm up to date. All the
    scans show nothing at all and I haven't done anything
    to cause this. It just came out of no where like most of
    my computer problems.


    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

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  • From Newyana2@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Sep 9 08:10:48 2023
    "Robert in CA" <magineer02@yahoo.com> wrote

    | Thoughts/suggestions?

    If you expect to have tech support people on call then
    you should be paying someone to do it, not exploiting
    Paul's generosity.

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Sep 11 19:54:13 2023
    I believe I know what's causing the problem. I
    overextended my use of the computer with too
    many windows/programs open. That would also
    explain the buzzing sound.

    I had noticed previously that Avast scanning stopped
    responding when I opened FF. That should of told
    me something.

    I was about to do a System Restore when it all seemed
    OK? I was able to regain control of the computer and
    all seems fine now. I made a System Restore point just
    in case.

    I run the scans by themselves with nothing else running now.
    Also, I only open what I need to use and I haven't have
    any problems since.

    I still would appreciate your thoughts and insight and I
    have a couple of questions.

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Sep 21 14:14:31 2023
    Paul I need to ask you a couple of questions.

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Sep 29 09:55:40 2023
    On 9/21/2023 5:14 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul I need to ask you a couple of questions.

    Thanks,
    Robert


    It sounds like Firefox is using up RAM on the
    computer, to the point it starved other parts
    of the software of RAM they need.

    That could be why it is behaving like that.

    The combination of an older version of Firefox, plus
    the issues with leaving tabs open on those older versions,
    lead to excessive RAM consumption.

    Check your version of Firefox. This is Windows 7
    so there is a limit to the Firefox version number now.

    Installing the ESR version, should put you on the ESR stream
    and remove the old version. The profile folder should migrate forward.
    Make a backup of your bookmarks, at least, before bumping the version.

    https://blog.mozilla.org/futurereleases/2023/07/06/firefox-support-for-windows-7-8-and-8-1/

    The listing here is a little hard to read, as the 115 releases are
    broken into two groups by the alphabetical ordering. ESRs receive updates,
    and for this one, the stream stops Sept 2024.

    http://releases.mozilla.org/pub/firefox/releases/

    http://releases.mozilla.org/pub/firefox/releases/115.3.1esr/win64/en-US/Firefox%20Setup%20115.3.1esr.exe # 64 bit
    http://releases.mozilla.org/pub/firefox/releases/115.3.1esr/win32/en-US/Firefox%20Setup%20115.3.1esr.exe # 32 bit

    You can tell from which Program Files folder Firefox is in,
    whether it is 32 bit or 64 bit.

    C:\Program Files <=== 64 bit
    C:\Program Files (x86) <=== 32 bit

    *******

    (Posting from paganini, Mixmin seems closed to posting, E-S is down at the moment.)

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Sep 30 05:40:38 2023
    Hi Paul,


    I thought I had lost you! whew!

    The problem is as you described so now I only open
    what's needed then close it and the problem has gone
    away.

    I checked FF and this is what is says:

    https://postimg.cc/8JQwb2Yh

    I backed up my bookmarks and put it on a Patriot key

    Should I click on this one after backing up my bookmarks?

    http://releases.mozilla.org/pub/firefox/releases/115.3.1esr/win64/en-US/Firefox%20Setup%20115.3.1esr.exe # 64 bit

    This is the kind of thing I need you for.

    I think while we still have contact, I'd like to move my
    bookmarks and all my folders/files from the 8500 to
    the 780 just in case I should loose the 8500 at some
    point. Is that possible?

    Right now we've left the 780 with just what it needs as a backup
    computer to keep it as clean as possible so it has no folders or files
    and a minimum of bookmarks but I'm afraid if we don't do it now
    and we loose contact I won't be able to.

    Should I configure the 780 the same way as were doing to
    FF on the 8500? but how could I keep the 780 updated?
    I couldn't use the 8500 mrimgs with the 780, correct?

    I think if we could configure the 780 the same as the 8500 I would need
    another Seagate 6TB external HD and enclosure. What do you think?

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st6000dm001-6tb/p/N82E16822178783

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-nst-387s3-bk-enclosure/p/N82E16817392118

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Sep 30 15:43:48 2023
    I clicked on

    http://releases.mozilla.org/pub/firefox/releases/115.3.1esr/win64/en-US/Firefox%20Setup%20115.3.1esr.exe # 64 bit

    and it shows it completed:

    https://postimg.cc/cKZmGYQV

    I'll do the same thing to the 780.

    In passing, remember the cd player where the door
    wouldn't open? I bought some contact cleaner and
    sprayed it around the open button and now it's
    operational again.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Oct 2 00:25:44 2023
    I ran mrimg backups in both the 780 and the 8500.

    So how do I go about transferring my bookmarks
    and data from the 8500 to the 780?

    Once finished I'll order the 6TB external hd and
    case. I'd appreciate it if you could help me set it
    up.

    Thanks,
    Robert
    l

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Oct 6 05:36:10 2023
    The 8500 hung up again with loud buzzing.
    I pressed the start button a couple of times and
    it took forever to respond. It finally came back
    up but it didn't seem right so I restarted it but it
    just hung there and I was forced to power it off/on.
    I selected normal startup and came back up with no
    issues.

    I had only 3 windows open in FF when it hung up. I
    also I detected this maleware .

    https://postimg.cc/mzFJ78V1

    Isn't version 3.1 the update to FF ? That's the only
    thing I've downloaded.

    I would really like your assistance to put my bookmarks
    and data on the 780 while we still can.

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Oct 7 01:44:13 2023
    On 10/6/2023 8:36 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    The 8500 hung up again with loud buzzing.
    I pressed the start button a couple of times and
    it took forever to respond. It finally came back
    up but it didn't seem right so I restarted it but it
    just hung there and I was forced to power it off/on.
    I selected normal startup and came back up with no
    issues.

    I had only 3 windows open in FF when it hung up. I
    also I detected this maleware .

    https://postimg.cc/mzFJ78V1

    Isn't version 3.1 the update to FF ? That's the only
    thing I've downloaded.

    I would really like your assistance to put my bookmarks
    and data on the 780 while we still can.

    Thanks,
    Robert



    Time for a restore from one of your backups ?

    Use a Macrium CD to do the restore ?

    I cannot find a reference to that item. The search engines
    seem to shy away from the name, giving all sorts of irrelevant
    results.

    C:\Users\RB\Downloads\App_version 3.1.msi

    You can upload the file to virustotal.com using a web browser,
    but if that does not work, that probably means the machine is
    compromised. Don't open that file, on any other
    machine.

    *******

    For making bookmarks.html , I don't know if I can be
    a good source of current information.

    I don't know what version you're running. windows 7 SP1 support for
    Firefox has ended, which means, if you were auto-updating, there might
    be a nuisance notification telling you that Firefox is no longer
    supported (Firefox puts up a notice to that effect).

    This advice will probably work. Enter in the URL box:

    about:profiles

    and that will show the path to the profile folder.

    Now, we used to have discussions about this folder,

    bookmarkbackups

    yet, in the end, we never seemed to get much traction from
    there. In the latest Firefox, I find out that -

    1) Automatic bookmark backup has stopped.
    2) There is a setting in about:config, which claims to control
    bookmarkbackups, and it *might* be dumping an actual
    "bookmarks.html" file in the profile folder.

    Therefore, you might check in the Profile folder from the
    "about:profiles" step and see if a file with a very recent
    date is in there.

    The only file in the bookmarkbackups folder, is 1.4KB, and
    that cannot possibly hold my backup files.

    But don't despair, as the raw materials for making bookmarks
    are here.

    "Bookmarks, Downloads and Browsing History

    places.sqlite

    This file contains all your Firefox bookmarks and lists of files you have downloaded
    and of websites you have previously visited. For more information, see Bookmarks in Firefox.

    favicons.sqlite

    This file stores website favicon images. It's best to also include this file when
    recovering the places.sqlite file.
    "

    If you have those files (and you will), then the bookmarks are in there.

    So nothing is lost.

    But at this point, I don't want you running around with
    your hair on fire, just yet :-)

    *******

    Of course, the Bookmarks tab in the middle of the browser has:

    Bookmarks :
    Manage Bookmarks :
    Import and Backup :
    Export bookmarks to HTML

    And when I selected a place to save that, the file size of mine
    was 815,349 and was the same size as the "bookmarks.html" in
    my Profile folder. So you can make one that way, but in your
    machines sick condition, can you do that right now ???

    I cannot tell you from this distance, whether the bookmark making
    process is working properly or not.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Oct 7 17:07:30 2023
    On 10/2/2023 3:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I ran mrimg backups in both the 780 and the 8500.

    So how do I go about transferring my bookmarks
    and data from the 8500 to the 780?

    Once finished I'll order the 6TB external hd and
    case. I'd appreciate it if you could help me set it
    up.

    Thanks,
    Robert
    l


    "Data", would be your Downloads folder, where ever you
    placed your Bookmarks file, and perhaps if you wanted,
    the profile for Firefox. Your email tool might have a
    profile folder as well.

    Your backup image of the 8500, has all your user files in it.
    It does not need to be restored, to be useful. The following
    picture, shows how to scoop random files out of a Macrium backup.

    If you place a copy of the 8500 MRIMG on the 780,
    you can mount the OS partition with a separate drive
    letter.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/7Zs0Yjk0/scoop-files-from-Macrium-MRIMG-file.gif

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Oct 7 16:33:44 2023
    Hi Paul,

    Good to hear from you again,,

    I did about:profiles, I see the Profile Default with Root Directory
    and Local Directory and is repeated for Profile default-release.
    I went into the Root Directory and there was a bookmarkbackup
    folder that was updated for today. Then I went into the Local
    Directory and there was a Cache2 and jumpList cache that was
    updated for today. The Profile default -release showed no
    recent activity. In fact, bookmarkbackups was 2019.

    You lost me after that... I cannot seem to access places.sqlite or favicons.sqlite with about:profile. How do I access them?

    I have my Downloads under C:/User name but I have allot of
    information in My Documents as well I would want to carry over.

    So I would be right clicking to copy/ paste the bookmarksbackup
    and my Documents? Is it possible to just do a restore of the 780
    with the 8500 Mrimg?


    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 8 00:24:25 2023
    The 8500 seems normaI at present with no issues.
    I'm running another mrimg since the Iast one had
    the maIeware on it. Do you think it's the RAMM that
    was overIoaded? I'II teII you that buzzing sound
    was unnerving.

    I used Avast to remove the maIeware fiIe :
    C:\Users\RB\Downloads\App_version 3.1.msi

    FF is up to date, I'm running version 115.3.1esr (64 bit)
    I wasn't auto-updating so I haven't seen any notifications.
    I ran through the bookmark tab to find aII the functions
    as you describe.

    I'm not sure I understand the process I'm suppose to do?
    Am I Exporting to htm and do I put it on a USB key then
    import it to the 780?
    It appears I'm copy/pasting the bookmarkbackups and
    My Documents using the mrimg to the 780, correct?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Oct 8 21:32:49 2023
    On 10/8/2023 3:24 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    The 8500 seems normaI at present with no issues.
    I'm running another mrimg since the Iast one had
    the maIeware on it. Do you think it's the RAMM that
    was overIoaded? I'II teII you that buzzing sound
    was unnerving.

    I used Avast to remove the maIeware fiIe :
    C:\Users\RB\Downloads\App_version 3.1.msi

    FF is up to date, I'm running version 115.3.1esr (64 bit)
    I wasn't auto-updating so I haven't seen any notifications.
    I ran through the bookmark tab to find aII the functions
    as you describe.

    I'm not sure I understand the process I'm suppose to do?
    Am I Exporting to htm and do I put it on a USB key then
    import it to the 780?
    It appears I'm copy/pasting the bookmarkbackups and
    My Documents using the mrimg to the 780, correct?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It is unlikely to be the RAM.

    https://web.archive.org/web/20220107171652/http://www.memtest.org/

    https://web.archive.org/web/20220308174549if_/http://memtest.org/download/5.31b/memtest86+-5.31b.iso.zip

    The second link is the download for memtest 5.31b . It is zipped, so
    you would right click and Extract.

    The memtest86+-5.31b.iso is an ISO9660 and can be burned onto a CD
    with Imgburn. It's a waste of media for a tiny thing like this, but
    the floppy diskette version stopped with the previous version. The floppy version is interesting, in that there is no file system on the floppy,
    and the loader is a binary bitstream loader. Even though both my machines
    no longer have floppy drives, the memtest floppy boots using a USB floppy drive, so I haven't lost that function.

    Some of my tools, I used a CD-RW disc so the disc can be reused.
    Currently I have a USB stick dedicated to memtest 6.0 beta, and
    that's what I test the Zen3 with. The 4930K can use one of the
    older versions, like the 5.31b.

    *******

    Windows also has a memory tester. It has the usual Windows bad habit,
    that if you leave the room, you might never know the results. All I want,
    is for the tool to STOP and show the result on the screen. Is that too
    hard for them ?

    In any case, you can find a memory tester, if you need one. The memtest
    one, you press <esc> key and it reboots. Seeing the pass counter equal to one (one complete test pass), that's sufficient for stuck-ats.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 8 21:04:24 2023
    I tried extracting again:

    https://postimg.cc/HJxwXqwv

    I must be doing something wrong.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 8 20:51:51 2023
    The second link doesn't extract:

    https://postimg.cc/kVjJD0GM

    Before we analyze the 8500 memory I
    would like to move the bookmarks and
    data to the 780 while we still can.

    I'm still not sure about the procedure of
    moving bookmarks.

    Here's my profile; I blocked out portions
    for safety but this is what I see on my profiles.

    https://postimg.cc/D8sYZ108

    I did a HD-Tune scan:

    https://postimg.cc/PPpCjttM

    https://postimg.cc/T5y3f9XP

    I was concerned about these yellow bars.

    https://postimg.cc/MXhW11Sy


    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Oct 9 23:31:30 2023
    On 10/9/2023 12:04 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I tried extracting again:

    https://postimg.cc/HJxwXqwv

    I must be doing something wrong.

    Robert


    You can try navigating to the Downloads folder.

    The convenience function "Show in Folder" in the menu
    you show in that picture, should get you there with
    no effort.

    Once the folder is open and it scrolled to where the file is,
    you should be able to extract a ZIP with the Windows7 automatic
    treatment of ZIP files. And perhaps that will work better for
    you, as when you're using File Explorer, it can immediately see
    it is a ZIP and ready to be extracted.

    This shows I see a valid file there, ready to be processed.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/FKcns3MM/memtest531-being-extracted.gif

    *******

    You can carry out the Bookmarks Export function, then collect
    it from the Downloads folder or where-ever, and copy it to a USB
    stick if you want. The suggestion of tapping into an .MRIMG
    you make after that point in time, is the file would also be
    inside the .MRIMG on a hard drive. The important thing, is to
    at least carry out the Export function now, for your later
    convenience (using one or the other transfer method).

    My only point of explaining about the .MRIMG being mount-able,
    is you haven't lost anything. There might be several copies of
    your goods in the room with you.

    Just use whatever method seems easiest to you. A USB stick would
    be pretty easy. You probably have a working AV running on the
    other machine, ready to scan the USB stick when it arrives. A bookmarks
    is not particularly "executable content", not like an EXE file
    would be.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Oct 9 21:39:40 2023
    I tried navigating to the folder to extract the zip file but I don't
    know how to proceed? What am I suppose to do with this ISO file?

    I thought it would download a memory test program to test the memory?

    https://postimg.cc/yDSkrFv5

    https://postimg.cc/grJcTV0D

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Oct 9 21:41:13 2023
    btw did those yellow bars in the HD-Tune Heath tab mean anything?

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Oct 9 23:05:24 2023
    I'll also need another 6TB HD and case.

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st6000dm001-6tb/p/N82E16822178783

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-nst-387s3-bk-enclosure/p/N82E16817392118

    Usually we make the hd drives bootable but if I
    remember correctly I just created a folder for
    the 8500 mrimgs and nothing else on the 6TB
    external hd. So I think I should do the same for
    the 780 but with no OS how is that possible?

    I can't remember how we set up the 6TB hd.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Oct 9 22:57:17 2023
    I successfully exported my bookmarks to the 780.

    I went into bookmarks>manage bookmarks>import and backup>export bookmarks to HTML
    then on the 780 I went to bookmarks>manage bookmarks> import and backup> import bookmarks from HTML

    It all seems to be there.

    Wasn't there some other file you wanted me to move over? Oh the data file,
    what was that called? and where? Then I can mount the external hd and move
    my entire My Documents with copy/paste correct? or is there another method you recommend?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Oct 10 02:48:30 2023
    On 10/10/2023 12:39 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I tried navigating to the folder to extract the zip file but I don't
    know how to proceed? What am I suppose to do with this ISO file?

    I thought it would download a memory test program to test the memory?

    https://postimg.cc/yDSkrFv5

    https://postimg.cc/grJcTV0D

    Thanks,
    Robert


    I have a burner program set up on my PC, called Imgburn,
    and it puts entries in the right-click menu. I can right-click
    the extracted ISO file in my Downloads, and start the Imgburn program
    from there.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/SxkgpdC3/burn-iso-win7-to-CD.gif

    If you were starting the Imgburn program from the Program menu,
    the upper-left-corner "Write image file to disc", unpacks
    the ISO and uses it to fill the CD with the info. The ISO
    file in this case, is only 1.8MB and it is just a bit
    bigger than a floppy. It uses very little of a CD, and the burn
    time should be minimal. I have mine set to burn and then Verify.

    Imgburn can be set to make rude noises when the command completes,
    so you want to turn down the PC audio volume in the taskbar.

    Once the CD is burned, you can leave in the tray, do a Restart
    of the OS, and since your CD is in the boot order before the
    hard drive (in the Dell BIOS), the CD should start. Once memtest
    is started, you can pop the CD out of the tray at any time.

    *******

    The Yellow Bars in the HDTune SMART are "nothing". This is an issue
    where the HDTune developer (ten years ago), didn't decode the
    Seagate branded drive stuff there properly, and yellow bars is the result.
    Your Reallocated raw data is zero in SMART, and that's a good start.

    Getting a valid HDTune benchmark curve is tricky. Sometimes the OS
    reads the disk, while the HDTune runs, and that is what causes the
    downward spikes. The very best OS for running an HDTune, is Windows 2000,
    but you are hardly likely to switch to that to test :-) That was a very
    quiet OS, and did not tend to interfere with the test results.

    I don't have any particular techniques for improving the results
    (making them more realistic). In the following picture, I have two disks,
    the second one is a "data disk" and does not have the OS on it, and I test
    that in the picture. The OS drive, you have to leave it for a while,
    to settle down. You can see my spikes mostly went away.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/fTc6XBsT/Win7-HDTune-Benchmark-two-drives.gif

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Oct 10 02:48:10 2023
    btw how Iong does this test take? It's
    been going for an hour now.

    On the bottom of the screen it says:
    Pass compIete, no errors, press Esc to exit

    yet it stiII seems Iike it's running. How do
    I know when it's finished?

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Oct 10 02:39:08 2023
    I'm on the 780;
    I created a Memtest86 CD with ImageBurn and
    restarted the 8500 but I have to press F12 to
    access the opticaI CD drive. I beIieve we tried to fix
    that previousIy but we couIdn't. The 780 however
    detects CD's.

    The Memtest is stiII running and it's on test#10 right
    now. [ModuIo 20, Random pattern] hmmmm it just
    switched to test#5 [moving inversions, 8 bit pattern]
    then switched again to #6[moving inversions, Random pattern]

    I'II Iet you know the resuts when it finish's.
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Oct 10 02:50:13 2023
    It compIeted 1 pass with no errors.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Oct 10 06:02:27 2023
    You're right about HD-Tune. I powered off the 8500 then
    powered it back on and waited for 1 hour. I didn't open any
    programs then ran HD-Tune.

    https://postimg.cc/qtrPbpDP

    It looks just like the other one.

    Is there anything else besides My Documents I should
    move to the 780? In passing, I made a System Restore
    point on the 780.

    Thanks
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Oct 10 06:48:45 2023
    Here's a picture of the Memtest in progress.

    https://postimg.cc/0b0NNPXc

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Oct 10 19:55:07 2023
    On 10/10/2023 2:05 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I'll also need another 6TB HD and case.

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st6000dm001-6tb/p/N82E16822178783

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-nst-387s3-bk-enclosure/p/N82E16817392118

    Usually we make the hd drives bootable but if I
    remember correctly I just created a folder for
    the 8500 mrimgs and nothing else on the 6TB
    external hd. So I think I should do the same for
    the 780 but with no OS how is that possible?

    I can't remember how we set up the 6TB hd.

    Robert


    The purpose of the boot-able drives, is so you'd have
    something for emergencies.

    You don't have to set up every drive that way, if you don't want to.

    But there is certain comfort, in knowing you have a drive
    that will work, when the regular drive is ruined.

    When you get a new drive, you can use Macrium Reflect,
    to clone only the OS partition(s) that make the
    previous backup drive bootable. And avoid copying the
    Data partition with all the MRIMG files in it (which would take hours).

    The boot partition, is best suited to the machine the disk
    is paired with. The license would remain activated, for the
    780 drive paired with the 780, perhaps. I don't like to take
    chances with moving older OSes around in the room, because
    that might break something.

    If however, you have sufficient control of your machine so it
    won't attempt to boot off the wrong drive, you can always move
    a data drive to the opposite machine so you can access the
    Data partition.

    Using diskmgmt.msc , is the best way to "review" what is on
    each drive. If you have applied text labels to the partitions, that
    helps jog your memory in later years, as to what is what. For example,
    if I label the partition "Win10AMD" or "Win10Intel", then I will
    know which machine that is for. I can check the labels using my
    Linux maintenance media, before attempting to boot them and
    ruin something :-) The drives also have stuff written on the
    metal surfaces that are large enough to write on. The Helium drive,
    nothing is written on that one. That's because it will be the
    only Helium drive in the room. There is no way to know how long the
    Helium drive will last. The warranty says "five years". It has no OS
    and only holds data.

    The cheapest hard drives here right now, are WD Black 1TB boot drives,
    and the lowest price on those was around $66 or so. The price has gone
    back up now, so they're not quite as attractive. Those are the drive(s)
    with OSes on them. Typically three OSes per drive, and a large data
    partition for scratch. The Helium drive doesn't need an OS, because
    I will be using the Macrium CD any time the Helium drive is plugged in.
    The helium drive doesn't fit in the tray, and the holes for mounting
    are in the wrong place. The drive is a damn nuisance.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Oct 10 19:41:32 2023
    On 10/10/2023 1:57 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I successfully exported my bookmarks to the 780.

    I went into bookmarks>manage bookmarks>import and backup>export bookmarks to HTML
    then on the 780 I went to bookmarks>manage bookmarks> import and backup> import bookmarks from HTML

    It all seems to be there.

    Wasn't there some other file you wanted me to move over? Oh the data file, what was that called? and where? Then I can mount the external hd and move
    my entire My Documents with copy/paste correct? or is there another method you
    recommend?

    Thanks,
    Robert



    The bookmarks is the important one for Firefox.

    For your email tool, whatever it is, you'd want to keep
    a copy of the folder where the emails are kept. Some
    tools use a .pst file, some tools use an MBOX (no file
    extension on the end, making them hard to find). Individual
    mails can be stored as .eml files, and only a few tools
    will maintain the actual local storage that way. An MBOX
    is just so much more convenient (it holds all the emails in
    the Inbox, or all the emails in the Sent, and so on).

    If you have favorite tools, you might want to transport
    the installers for those, to the other platform.

    I try not to "reorganize stuff", because that is work :-)

    I bring a "bucket" over next to a "bucket", and pick from
    one of the buckets, according to my knowledge of what is
    in each bucket.

    local_folder

    imported_folder <=== visit here, if I think lost material is in here.

    Like, when it comes to photos, they're not stored in a labeled tree.
    And yes, that makes it hard to find stuff. I can always tag stuff, such as

    picture-house-123-Main-Street.jpg

    and then if I remember the street number, I could search on "123" perhaps.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Oct 10 17:15:21 2023
    I already moved my email over to the 780 so it's OK.

    We can make the 6TB bootable and maybe that's what
    we did last time for the other 6TB?

    I ran a Memtest on the 780 with 1 pass, no errors.

    I also attached the 6TB external hd with the 8500 mrimgs
    to the 780 and tried to change the drive letter.

    https://postimg.cc/rdcy38rZ

    https://postimg.cc/647Bnqkq

    What am I doing wrong?

    Even though I successfully exportd the bookmarks to the 780
    I'm still not following what your saying here. I don't see these
    files.


    "Bookmarks, Downloads and Browsing History

    places.sqlite

    This file contains all your Firefox bookmarks and lists of files you have downloaded
    and of websites you have previously visited. For more information, see Bookmarks in Firefox.

    favicons.sqlite

    This file stores website favicon images. It's best to also include this file when
    recovering the places.sqlite file.

    also this:

    "Data", would be your Downloads folder, where ever you
    placed your Bookmarks file, and perhaps if you wanted,
    the profile for Firefox. Your email tool might have a
    profile folder as well.

    So your saying I should copy/paste my Downloads folder
    to the 780? How could I place my 8500 profile on the 780
    and what would be the advantages of doing that?


    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Oct 11 02:15:17 2023
    After thinking about it we must have made the 6TB hd a bootable drive because that's
    what you would of recommended and what we have been doing all along. I just forgot the procedure for cloning it but the procedure has changed some and is very
    automatic now with only a few steps for mrimg backups so I assume cloning has also
    changed. I remember I have to put it inside the 780 and let it boot.

    I don't have any favorite tools per se except the Dell Image Expert 2000,Word, Excel
    and of course all the antivirus and maleware e.g., Avast, SuperAntiSpware, Malewarebytes, Spywareblaster but I worry about having up to date downloads
    for them. You know my history. Maybe you should review my links for each to see if they are OK.

    Avast- https://www.avast.com/installation-files#pc

    Avast removal - https://www.avast.com/uninstall-utility#pc

    Malewarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/

    SuperAntispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/

    SpywareBlaster - http://www.brightfort.com/


    They are already installed on the 780 except Word and Excel. I have the original CD's
    that came with the 8200 but apparently I could only use it (3) times which I've done
    because they won't load on the 780. I really need Word and Excel on the 780 if I ever
    loose the 8500. Is there some way of doing it?

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Oct 11 02:28:51 2023
    I forgot,

    HD-Tune - http://www.hdtune.com/download.html (click on the trial to download?)

    AdwCleaner - https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/adwcleaner/

    Imgeburn- http://www.oldversion.com/windows/imgburn-2-5-0-0

    Agent Ransack - https://www.mythicsoft.com/agentransack/download/

    GeForce Drivers - https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/drivers/

    Microsoft - https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download

    I'm missing a VLC player download, could you please provide one?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Oct 11 07:57:40 2023
    If the computer problem isn't RAMM or the memory because we
    did the Memtest86 or the hd because I did the HD-Tune what could
    it be that caused the humming? Is it possible my power supply is going?

    I do have (2) spare power supply's that you helped me purchase awhile
    back but I sure would hate to change power supply's. That would be tricky
    and I don't know if I'm up to it.

    Right now the 8500 is running normally with no issues.

    Thoughts, suggestions?
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Oct 12 23:30:01 2023
    I tried again but still getting it wrong:

    https://postimg.cc/HcdHhktt

    https://postimg.cc/mh6fQwKj

    https://postimg.cc/2L1tHsgw

    https://postimg.cc/K4CpGsd6

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Oct 14 01:01:30 2023
    On 2023-10-10 20:15, Robert in CA wrote:
    I already moved my email over to the 780 so it's OK.

    We can make the 6TB bootable and maybe that's what
    we did last time for the other 6TB?

    I ran a Memtest on the 780 with 1 pass, no errors.

    I also attached the 6TB external hd with the 8500 mrimgs
    to the 780 and tried to change the drive letter.

    https://postimg.cc/rdcy38rZ

    https://postimg.cc/647Bnqkq

    What am I doing wrong?

    Even though I successfully exportd the bookmarks to the 780
    I'm still not following what your saying here. I don't see these
    files.

    When using the Windows OS in the normal way, the drive letter capability
    is in Disk Management ("diskmgmt.msc").

    *******

    You are in Macrium Reflect, and appear to have taken a screenshot in there. Macrium Reflect CD has a "fake File Explorer", but I'm not aware of a
    "fake Disk Management" to make this easy.

    Open the Macrium Reflect terminal (... Command Prompt).

    diskpart.exe

    list disk
    select disk 0
    list volume
    select volume 2 # You do this for devices that have drive letters, but you want to change it
    assign letter=k # I changed my S: drive to K: drive.
    exit

    Now, close the fake File Explorer, and open it again, and
    see if the letter has changed.




    "Bookmarks, Downloads and Browsing History

    places.sqlite

    This file contains all your Firefox bookmarks and lists of files you have downloaded
    and of websites you have previously visited. For more information, see Bookmarks in Firefox.

    favicons.sqlite

    This file stores website favicon images. It's best to also include this file when
    recovering the places.sqlite file.

    also this:

    "Data", would be your Downloads folder, where ever you
    placed your Bookmarks file, and perhaps if you wanted,
    the profile for Firefox. Your email tool might have a
    profile folder as well.

    So your saying I should copy/paste my Downloads folder
    to the 780? How could I place my 8500 profile on the 780
    and what would be the advantages of doing that?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    For this previous section, I was describing which files inside the
    Firefox profile folder, have your Bookmark information. If you had
    a broken computer and could no longer use the Export function, those
    two SQLITE files contain the information used for Bookmarks.

    Your home directory has data. But, it has a lot of it. Copying
    the entire Home directory might be 20GB. Similarly, the Downloads
    folder might have a large quantity of material. Whether you want or
    need this material, is up to you.

    Lots of stuff also hides in AppData, a hidden folder, and it has
    "local" and "roaming". Some of the data copy procedures, for saving
    browser Profile folders or email Profile folders, will tell you how
    to locate them in AppData.

    This is why I tried to encourage making a Macrium Backup, and
    in some Windows, mounting the backup MRIMG file using the right
    click menu, and then you can copy an materials or portion of
    materials, according to a recipe you can find for doing it. Because
    when you do it that way, you have some assurance "you haven't lost anything".

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Oct 14 01:26:56 2023
    On 2023-10-11 05:15, Robert in CA wrote:

    After thinking about it we must have made the 6TB hd a bootable drive because that's
    what you would of recommended and what we have been doing all along. I just forgot the procedure for cloning it but the procedure has changed some and is very
    automatic now with only a few steps for mrimg backups so I assume cloning has also
    changed. I remember I have to put it inside the 780 and let it boot.

    I don't have any favorite tools per se except the Dell Image Expert 2000,Word, Excel
    and of course all the antivirus and maleware e.g., Avast, SuperAntiSpware, Malewarebytes, Spywareblaster but I worry about having up to date downloads for them. You know my history. Maybe you should review my links for each to see
    if they are OK.

    Avast- https://www.avast.com/installation-files#pc

    Avast removal - https://www.avast.com/uninstall-utility#pc

    Malewarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/

    SuperAntispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/

    SpywareBlaster - http://www.brightfort.com/


    They are already installed on the 780 except Word and Excel. I have the original CD's
    that came with the 8200 but apparently I could only use it (3) times which I've done
    because they won't load on the 780. I really need Word and Excel on the 780 if I ever
    loose the 8500. Is there some way of doing it?

    Robert

    I'm sure your links will work out for you.

    For Word and Excel, the question would be:

    1) Ability to just print them off.

    2) Ability to do authentic changes to the documents,
    for sending to the government or whatever.

    LibreOffice is free. I only recommend installing this, if you cannot
    get the Windows one to work.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LibreOffice

    https://www.libreoffice.org/download/download-libreoffice/

    I do not know enough about Office installs, to know what will happen.
    If a license is installed too many times, you may have to use an
    automated phone system, to exchange 56 digit codes. (You send a code,
    they send one back.) Some products, like FPP, may include transfer
    rights, such that when you install on a new machine, the old machine
    copy is disabled, or, you have to carry out a "disable" operation
    then an uninstall, on the old machine, to free up a license. I don't
    know what's going to work in your case. And Microsoft does not want
    their tools giving useful information -- that makes the job too easy.
    You cannot ask questions such as "is this key valid", because
    that's what a hacker would do -- make a random key, phone up, see
    if they won the lottery.

    When a license is locked out, you can talk to a human operator.
    They can fix it the first time. The second time you're locked out,
    you may not get it fixed.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Oct 14 01:30:06 2023
    On 2023-10-11 05:28, Robert in CA wrote:
    I forgot,

    HD-Tune - http://www.hdtune.com/download.html (click on the trial to download?)

    AdwCleaner - https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/adwcleaner/

    Imgeburn- http://www.oldversion.com/windows/imgburn-2-5-0-0

    Agent Ransack - https://www.mythicsoft.com/agentransack/download/

    GeForce Drivers - https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/drivers/

    Microsoft - https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download

    I'm missing a VLC player download, could you please provide one?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    There is a button on the main page, for a download.

    https://www.videolan.org/

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Oct 13 23:40:46 2023
    For this previous section, I was describing which files inside the
    Firefox profile folder, have your Bookmark information. If you had
    a broken computer and could no longer use the Export function, those
    two SQLITE files contain the information used for Bookmarks.

    I finally found the files you're talking about in Profiles. So should I copy/paste
    places.sqlite and favincons to the 780? or the entire Profile? How would
    I move my Profile to the 780?

    Your home directory has data. But, it has a lot of it. Copying
    the entire Home directory might be 20GB. Similarly, the Downloads
    folder might have a large quantity of material. Whether you want or
    need this material, is up to you.

    By home data you mean my Profile? I think the only thing I need is the
    links to the downloads not the downloads themselves and 'My Documents'
    where I have allot of information.

    Lots of stuff also hides in AppData, a hidden folder, and it has
    "local" and "roaming". Some of the data copy procedures, for saving
    browser Profile folders or email Profile folders, will tell you how
    to locate them in AppData.


    If App data is hidden how do I transfer App data from the 8500 to the 780?
    I'll do whatever you recommend best.

    This is why I tried to encourage making a Macrium Backup, and
    in some Windows, mounting the backup MRIMG file using the right
    click menu, and then you can copy an materials or portion of
    materials, according to a recipe you can find for doing it. Because
    when you do it that way, you have some assurance "you haven't lost anything".

    I've been trying but I'm doing something wrong because when I right click
    it, it doesn't give me the Explore option. I can't proceed if I can't change the drive letter.

    When a license is locked out, you can talk to a human operator.
    They can fix it the first time. The second time you're locked out,
    you may not get it fixed.

    I'll work on that and try calling Microsft and see if they can release the
    the key but I don't understand making up a random key? How could
    that help?

    Thanks for the downloads of the VLC player and LibreOffice which I think
    I'll put on the 780 if I can't get the Word/Excel CD's to work. I'll try it again.
    I would hate to loose Excel because I keep allot of information there. However, I
    see LibreOffice has many similar programs.

    Right now, we need to focus on the mrimgs and copy/pasting 'My Documents'
    and any other files you recommend.

    At the end of the month I'll order the 6TB hd and case and then we can set that up as a bootable hd for 780 mrimgs

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Oct 14 00:06:32 2023
    I just tried the Word/Excel CD that came with the 8200
    and I was able to download them successfully to the 780.
    So now it has Word and Excel on it. I still may add the LibreOffice.

    Were making progress

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Oct 14 01:21:19 2023
    I meant I was able to install Word and Excel on the 780
    of course.

    Now all I need is to get the mrimg to work so I can move
    'My Documents' to the 780. I have allot of data in there
    including my Excel files. That's where I store everything.

    When I try right clicking the mrimg drive or Mrimg itself it
    doesn't give me the Explore option as in your instructions
    it gives me Open. So I can't change the drive letter to K:

    What am I doing wrong?

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Oct 15 06:30:36 2023
    On 10/14/2023 4:21 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I meant I was able to install Word and Excel on the 780
    of course.

    Now all I need is to get the mrimg to work so I can move
    'My Documents' to the 780. I have allot of data in there
    including my Excel files. That's where I store everything.

    When I try right clicking the mrimg drive or Mrimg itself it
    doesn't give me the Explore option as in your instructions
    it gives me Open. So I can't change the drive letter to K:

    What am I doing wrong?

    1) Start Macrium
    2) Menu bar "Restore" : "Browse for an Image"
    From the resulting file dialog, select the MRIMG you want to mount.
    3) (Of the Backup/Restore/Log tabs, the Restore should be highlighted)
    Over on the right, the name of the MRIMG should now be displayed.
    The options are Browse Image, Restore Image, Other Actions.

    4) Select Browse Image.

    The selector box you were not able to reach,
    with the place to select letter K: , should now be on the screen.

    5) When you want to remove K: again (unmount), then go to File Explorer,
    find K: on the left hand side, right-click it and select the
    "Macrium Reflect" item in the context menu that appears. The
    side scroll item, there is only one item, and that's what you use
    to unmount the K: virtual drive. There will be a UAC prompt (if Macrium isn't
    running its normal main screen), and then the operation will happen.
    If the K: File Explorer window was open, it will close and disappear.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 15 08:54:16 2023
    I followed your instructions and I was able to change the letter of the drive but it
    wouldn't let me access 'My Documents'. I don't understand it because I had
    to sign in as Administrator to my User Account when I shouldn't have to yet
    I was denied. Should I try this on the Administrator's Account?

    I was also able to unmount K: as you instructed.

    I blocked out account names for safety.

    https://postimg.cc/JyhbWTcj

    https://postimg.cc/HJPbWQBR

    https://postimg.cc/JygBCRhW

    https://postimg.cc/crmg4RJh

    https://postimg.cc/wyL3KJPh

    https://postimg.cc/K1WYRJhP

    https://postimg.cc/QHHkBNFv

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 15 23:52:10 2023
    I went into the 780 under the Administrator Account this time.
    It gave me the same response as on the User Account, denied.
    How could I be denied from the Administrator's Account?
    I blocked out portions for safety.

    https://postimg.cc/TyNvVsRh
    https://postimg.cc/4K7B026Y
    https://postimg.cc/MXVKwW6D
    https://postimg.cc/CzZK2jZR
    https://postimg.cc/3Wq82dLY
    https://postimg.cc/64fhJDbh
    https://postimg.cc/30xZhLM5
    https://postimg.cc/758TMBBH
    https://postimg.cc/ZBdScLsm
    https://postimg.cc/8swSbstj
    https://postimg.cc/XX1PJ5sc
    https://postimg.cc/5XSqHdxd
    https://postimg.cc/zyTqZNnh
    https://postimg.cc/sB06TQv4

    I blocked out the numbers of the Account Unknown
    for safety but I have them if you need them.

    https://postimg.cc/tZQS00Ns
    https://postimg.cc/ct68XCtw
    https://postimg.cc/LqC9vTtQ
    https://postimg.cc/DS77TD5Y
    https://postimg.cc/TKkvXPKp
    https://postimg.cc/9rV6R9TD
    I then tried to go into my Administrators Account. same thing https://postimg.cc/YL7sFcv5

    Thoughts/Suggestions?
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Oct 17 17:41:01 2023
    I was denied access.

    Thoughts/suggestions,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Oct 17 22:38:12 2023
    On 10/17/2023 8:41 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I was denied access.

    Thoughts/suggestions,
    Robert

    At which step were you denied access ?

    You need to be using an account belonging to Administrator Group,
    for a lot of computer activities. For example, if you plug in
    an external hard drive in a USB enclosure, the ownership could be a
    name from the other machine, which "means nothing" to the current
    computer. Using your Administrator capabilities, a green bar will
    go across the screen in the File Explorer input box and this may
    indicate that File Explorer is doing an implicit "Take Own" of the
    folder on the drive you're trying to get into.

    See if belonging to the Administrator group helps.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Oct 19 04:32:28 2023
    I took screenshots of all the steps in my previous post
    and I was on the Administrators Account when I tried this.
    I was trying to access the User Account and was denied:

    https://postimg.cc/Xp2PBQh3

    https://postimg.cc/fSRKwhMd

    https://postimg.cc/1nJG7YD3

    https://postimg.cc/cg4Y3MPy

    I checked the security tabs:

    https://postimg.cc/r0kTZfM3

    I blocked out the numbers of the Account Unknown
    for safety but I have them if you need them.

    https://postimg.cc/dhZKqb0g

    https://postimg.cc/qgvSJPbQ

    https://postimg.cc/zyKP28vD

    https://postimg.cc/CBPvnKP7

    https://postimg.cc/Mct5gTSw

    https://postimg.cc/K1DDgz4T

    I then tried the Administrators Account

    https://postimg.cc/nCZs91md

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Oct 21 14:42:19 2023
    I don't understand, I was in the Administrator Account
    trying to access the User Account and it still denied me.

    Could the problem be sharing? It says not shared.

    https://postimg.cc/0KJQB0Kv

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Oct 21 22:16:03 2023
    On 10/21/2023 5:42 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I don't understand, I was in the Administrator Account
    trying to access the User Account and it still denied me.

    Could the problem be sharing? It says not shared.

    https://postimg.cc/0KJQB0Kv

    Robert


    There is a tick box in the Macrium mounter dialog, to remove permissions
    and make your files easier to access as K: .

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/RZHmJb4b/macrium-remove-permissions.gif

    *******

    The recent spam attacks originating from Google, have caused
    the USENET Admins to build spam filters.

    While ordinary messages from Google Groups make it through,
    some messages are getting dropped. This is termed a "false positive",
    as a perfectly ordinary message can be falsely accused of being spam.

    This means comms, my ability to see your questions,
    is potentially hampered now. I don't think yours are being
    dropped, but this is just a warning that if I don't reply,
    maybe I can't see it.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 22 03:12:39 2023
    Oh man,.... that's not good news. It's bad enough with all the servers
    going but now as you say you may not be able to even see my posts
    at some point!? I hope this isn't going to happen.

    If it does do you have any advice now? I do my mrimgs every month,
    but is there anything else you want me to do should you stop seeing my messages? I couldn't replace the PSU alone should that fail even though
    I have two spares.

    I'll try the mrimg again and let you know how it goes.

    I'll order the 6TB hd and external case next week and I'd appreciate it if
    you could help me set it up.

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 22 06:07:39 2023
    I tried the mrimg again but this time it didn't give me the browse option:

    https://postimg.cc/47P5YH6k

    however I managed to navigate to the mrimgs and change the drive letter to K: but it didn't give me the screen to enable access to restricted folders yet I was able to access them and copy/pasted 'My Documents' from the K drive
    to the C: drive.

    You know how it opens a dialog box and shows the files being transferred
    from one folder to the next? It did that at first but now the 'files' are frozen
    between folders and there's no apparent transfer happening. Also when the transfer completes it should close or tell me something, correct? I'm afraid
    to do anything since I've gotten this far with it but it seems like it's not responding.
    It just says, File operation in progress, please wait but there's no movement. It's been like this for about an hour now. What should I do?

    Thoughts, suggestions?
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 22 07:28:30 2023
    I got the 780 out of the not responding state then
    I tried dismounting the K: drive by right clicking but
    when I do it says Open, Properties, Refresh

    What's going on ? Why did mine change? I did all this
    before and it was OK?

    I successfully transferred 'My Documents' but they went
    to the Administrator's Account so I'm copy/pasting it again
    to the User Account. 3 hrs 30 mins,.. that's the same amount
    of time it takes for the mrimgs for the 8500.

    Should I try browsing again to see if I can dismount the K:
    and L: drives? It's weird it doesn't say Macrium when I right click

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Oct 23 02:04:24 2023
    I tried it again and again it didn't give me the option
    but I see it in the middle of the page where the arrow is.
    That's what I clicked on but when I got to the point of
    changing drives to unmount K: and L: they were there !?
    How could they be there if I didn't unmount them previously?

    https://postimg.cc/5XGgfwbX

    https://postimg.cc/JDQjHJVc

    Also when I brought over 'My Documents this popped up
    but I just closed it.

    https://postimg.cc/KkQg82B0

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Oct 23 01:37:30 2023
    I've successfully transferred My Documents and the bookmarks
    to the 780 with your good help but I still need to unmount K:
    and L: drives from the 6TB external hd.

    It's weird that the drop down box didn't have the 'Browse for image
    or backup file to restore' option. However I found it lower on the screen
    in a box on the right and that's how I gained access. but the K: and L:
    drives are still unmounted and I need to use another letter to dismount
    them. I'll give it another try but so far it's not giving me the Macrium
    option when I right click the drives?

    I'll try again and let you know how it goes.

    Are there any other tests you want me to do with regard to the
    humming from the 8500? It hasn't happened since but I was
    just wondering.

    I'll order the 6TB hd and case Wed and should be here in a week
    or so.

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Oct 23 07:38:54 2023
    On 10/23/2023 4:37 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I've successfully transferred My Documents and the bookmarks
    to the 780 with your good help but I still need to unmount K:
    and L: drives from the 6TB external hd.

    It's weird that the drop down box didn't have the 'Browse for image
    or backup file to restore' option. However I found it lower on the screen
    in a box on the right and that's how I gained access. but the K: and L: drives are still unmounted and I need to use another letter to dismount
    them. I'll give it another try but so far it's not giving me the Macrium option when I right click the drives?

    I'll try again and let you know how it goes.

    Are there any other tests you want me to do with regard to the
    humming from the 8500? It hasn't happened since but I was
    just wondering.

    I'll order the 6TB hd and case Wed and should be here in a week
    or so.

    Thanks,
    Robert



    The K: and L: should be dismount-able from File Explorer.
    Right-click on the drives, in the left-hand pane.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/FH8fh4Qs/Unmount-Macrium-K.gif

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Oct 23 07:28:07 2023
    On 10/22/2023 10:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I got the 780 out of the not responding state then
    I tried dismounting the K: drive by right clicking but
    when I do it says Open, Properties, Refresh

    What's going on ? Why did mine change? I did all this
    before and it was OK?

    I successfully transferred 'My Documents' but they went
    to the Administrator's Account so I'm copy/pasting it again
    to the User Account. 3 hrs 30 mins,.. that's the same amount
    of time it takes for the mrimgs for the 8500.

    Should I try browsing again to see if I can dismount the K:
    and L: drives? It's weird it doesn't say Macrium when I right click

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert


    When you run Macrium, the Restore button needs to be clicked,
    so the Restore menu items will be there. Then, you should
    be able to browse for something.

    The K: can be dismounted from File Explorer. Right click on K:
    and look for the Macrium item. The Macrium item should be
    present, if you are clicking on a Macrium item (such as K: ).

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Oct 23 07:41:09 2023
    On 10/23/2023 5:04 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I tried it again and again it didn't give me the option
    but I see it in the middle of the page where the arrow is.
    That's what I clicked on but when I got to the point of
    changing drives to unmount K: and L: they were there !?
    How could they be there if I didn't unmount them previously?

    https://postimg.cc/5XGgfwbX

    https://postimg.cc/JDQjHJVc

    Also when I brought over 'My Documents this popped up
    but I just closed it.

    https://postimg.cc/KkQg82B0

    Robert


    I don't know what would trigger that.
    If you were just copying some files and not executing something.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Oct 23 07:19:11 2023
    I tried again, and did as you instructed. The first picture I clicked
    the Restore Tab and it's the same as before. The second picture I
    clicked the Backup Tab

    https://postimg.cc/NL1jP09m

    https://postimg.cc/ZvZ4hrB3

    What am I doing wrong? I did this the first time and was exactly as
    you say but the browse option disappeared.

    Also in passing I noticed I have a Apple Software Update on the 780
    which I don't have on the 8500. There's also SequoiaView which if I
    remember correctly you used it to find that huge program that was eating
    up GB's when the 780 should of been like 50GB it was like 350GB.

    Should I remove these programs?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Oct 23 22:00:29 2023
    There's also another problem per se on the 8500.
    Sometimes it seems to lag loading programs. Like
    a YouTube video. Sometimes it takes forever to
    load a page and I'll have to reload it to get it to go.
    Other times I get this page:

    https://postimg.cc/SnGpBYdB

    Sometimes this is probably caused by me leaving the
    computer sitting for too long while I take a break but
    once going it shouldn't have these problems should it?

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Oct 24 05:07:05 2023
    I tried again with another Rescue CD but it gave me
    the same thing.

    https://postimg.cc/NL1jP09m

    Why and how did it change? The first time I did it it
    had the browse for image as you describe and all
    went well but now it's gone?

    I do see it in another part of the screen, center of the
    page and another lower right but we can't use either?

    So how do I fix this?

    Thanks
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Oct 25 02:07:55 2023
    I did the ipconfig command and this is what it shows:

    https://postimg.cc/XXDt8Cvk

    I did the whatismyip.net and it showed the exact location
    and my IP address.

    As far as IP address I don't have any control over mine
    which is all numbers. I'm not following you with the nodes
    to access and write down. Do you mean programs? Sites?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Oct 25 01:45:33 2023
    I was using the Rescue CD to do this so I tried it
    by just opening Macrium and there was the prompt.

    This is how I must of done it before but for some
    reason I started using the Rescue CD which changed it.

    However the K: and L: were there? How could they
    be there if I didn't un-mount them?


    https://postimg.cc/w1yPwMmS

    https://postimg.cc/DSXjqDVh

    https://postimg.cc/Cdxcvdym

    https://postimg.cc/kVCcWgFN


    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Oct 25 01:48:15 2023
    On 10/24/2023 8:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I tried again with another Rescue CD but it gave me
    the same thing.

    https://postimg.cc/NL1jP09m

    Why and how did it change? The first time I did it it
    had the browse for image as you describe and all
    went well but now it's gone?

    I do see it in another part of the screen, center of the
    page and another lower right but we can't use either?

    So how do I fix this?

    Thanks
    Robert


    The menus can be slightly different, in the OS screen
    versus the CD-provided screen. This is me running the CD.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/mrzbj3Nr/Macrium-Rescue-CD-browse.gif

    Copying a few files from K: to C: is best done while C: is booted.

    Restoring an entire hard drive image, over top of C: , that
    is when you use the Rescue CD.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Oct 25 02:15:59 2023
    On 10/24/2023 1:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    There's also another problem per se on the 8500.
    Sometimes it seems to lag loading programs. Like
    a YouTube video. Sometimes it takes forever to
    load a page and I'll have to reload it to get it to go.
    Other times I get this page:

    https://postimg.cc/SnGpBYdB

    Sometimes this is probably caused by me leaving the
    computer sitting for too long while I take a break but
    once going it shouldn't have these problems should it?

    Robert


    This can be a networking problem.

    In a Command Prompt or Powershell terminal window (doesn't have to be elevated)

    ipconfig <=== this shows your IPV4 and IPV6 addresses
    if the hardware has them. My setup for example,
    only has IPV4. I have the usual normal equipment
    to switch to doing both -- if I wanted that.
    These are local LAN addresses, typically non-routable.

    nslookup www.example.com <=== This is how you check the addresses of Internet servers
    Now, we're on the other side of your router, sniffing the Internet.

    You can do this in your browser if you want,
    so this is basically pseudocode in a sense.
    It means "do it in your browser".

    firefox https://www.whatismyip.net/ <=== This tests "how you are connecting to the web"

    Your Information
    IP Address: 105.200.150.175 <=== I connected via IPV4
    "DO NOT" pay attention to any scary red text on the page :-)
    We just want to see whether it tried IPV4 or IPV6 first.
    Most other info is irrelevant to our purpose. Some of
    the info on that web site, is just wrong.

    For example, when I tried to use this site, it was slow.

    PS C:\Users > nslookup news.eternal-september.org

    Non-authoritative answer:
    Name: news.eternal-september.org
    Addresses: 2a01:4f9:4b:44c2::2 <=== was only making IPV6 available at the time I checked

    Later when I checked, it was doing this, and I connected via IPV4
    and the time to become connected was reduced. Presumably it is the
    time for the DNS lookup which is taking longer, it prefers IPV4
    over IPV6 and tries that first.

    PS C:\Users > nslookup news.eternal-september.org

    Non-authoritative answer:
    Name: news.eternal-september.org
    Addresses: 2a01:4f9:4b:44c2::2 \___ The server supports both now.
    135.181.20.170 / Your machine may try one type, before the other type.
    if one of those is not available, it could be slower.

    DNS is also subject to a lot of shenanigans, which
    is why they are experimenting with other DNS servers
    with features such as DNS-over-TLS (secure in-flight lookups).
    But that doesn't make it faster. That's just noting
    that if there were ever a war, DNS would likely get
    broken right away. And you probably would not be
    watching Youtube then. If you had collected addresses
    using "nslookup" and had written them down, you
    could still attempt connect to specific servers.

    firefox http://135.181.20.170 # Now, it doesn't need DNS to work
    # Without a symbolic name, the certificate to make
    # a https: would not work, so try http: access first.

    It's delightfully messy, but it does pay to "prepare your go-bag"
    for times when the Internet is not working. For example, my
    ISP has a "status page", and you definitely want the IP address
    of the status page, so you can check for known network anomalies.

    IP addresses can be reassigned at any time, which is
    why we prefer symbolic addresses "news.eternal-september.org"
    instead of "135.181.20.170". Maybe tomorrow, that machine won't
    be at 135.181.20.170 . But, in the event of an emergency condition,
    think carefully about what nodes you might want to access, and
    write those down in your Notes file.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Oct 25 08:37:55 2023
    On 10/25/2023 4:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I was using the Rescue CD to do this so I tried it
    by just opening Macrium and there was the prompt.

    This is how I must of done it before but for some
    reason I started using the Rescue CD which changed it.

    However the K: and L: were there? How could they
    be there if I didn't un-mount them?


    https://postimg.cc/w1yPwMmS

    https://postimg.cc/DSXjqDVh

    https://postimg.cc/Cdxcvdym

    https://postimg.cc/kVCcWgFN


    Robert


    Postimage isn't working right now, but I can tell
    you the K: and L: , they can be unmounted from
    File Explorer, but they can also be unmounted any
    time you reboot.

    If you need to copy files from K: the next time
    you boot, you would have to mount the MRING file
    again to do that. And the K: "letter" should be
    available to do it.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Oct 25 09:35:38 2023
    Postimage seems fine on my end.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Oct 25 09:33:47 2023
    Since I've rebooted several times since then they've been
    unmounted so it's OK and I can use the K: or L: drives if I
    need to copy/paste?

    I don't know if this has anything to do with with the lag
    problem but earlier today I bid on an item on eBay and
    clicked the bid button but the dialog box opened only
    partially and was all grayed out so I wasn't able to bid
    and lost the item. It never did open up completely.

    That's the first time that's ever happened.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Oct 25 17:40:29 2023
    So if I want to copy/paste a file from the mrimgs
    I do not use the Rescue CD. I use it only to create
    clone, and restore, correct?

    I ordered the 6TB hd and case and should be
    here in a week or so.

    Once I get the 6TB hd I clone it and then put it
    inside the 780 to boot. Making it a boot-able hd,
    correct?

    By nodes do you mean the actual address of
    interested sites e.g. www.example.com?

    In passing, I noticed I have a Apple Software
    Update on the 780 which I don't have on the
    8500. There's also SequoiaView which if I
    remember correctly you used it to find that
    huge program that was eating up GB's when
    the 780 should of been like 50GB it was like
    350GB.

    Should I remove these programs?

    I got this screen again and I had just logged on.

    https://postimg.cc/pmzZpCXy

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Oct 27 00:37:05 2023
    On 10/25/2023 8:40 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    So if I want to copy/paste a file from the mrimgs
    I do not use the Rescue CD. I use it only to create
    clone, and restore, correct?

    I ordered the 6TB hd and case and should be
    here in a week or so.

    Once I get the 6TB hd I clone it and then put it
    inside the 780 to boot. Making it a boot-able hd,
    correct?

    By nodes do you mean the actual address of
    interested sites e.g. www.example.com?

    In passing, I noticed I have a Apple Software
    Update on the 780 which I don't have on the
    8500. There's also SequoiaView which if I
    remember correctly you used it to find that
    huge program that was eating up GB's when
    the 780 should of been like 50GB it was like
    350GB.

    Should I remove these programs?

    I got this screen again and I had just logged on.

    https://postimg.cc/pmzZpCXy

    Robert


    You can enter "somesite.com" style into this web page,
    and it may be able to tell you how often the site is down.

    https://www.isitdownrightnow.com/

    Sometimes the Windows firewall is not loading, but if that
    was the case, the browser likely wouldn't run, rather
    than the window opening and pretending to be ready for usage.

    The site in question, only has an IPV4 address and no IPV6 address.
    This isn't particularly important.

    OK, now this is interesting.

    nslookup righteouswarriors.com

    Non-authoritative answer:
    Name: righteouswarriors.com
    Address: 208.180.89.69 <=== an IPV4 address

    ping 208.180.89.69

    Pinging 208.180.89.69 with 32 bytes of data:
    Request timed out.
    Request timed out.
    Request timed out.
    Request timed out.

    Yet the entry web page paints in a web browser.
    And the transaction seems to use TLS 1.2 .

    I would rate the site, "not 100% normal". Due to the ping failing to work.

    isitdownrightnow says it is working, and the web browser says it is working.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Oct 27 02:37:09 2023
    I have my 6 TB hd and now just waiting for the case.
    Then I'll try cloning it.

    Here's your instructions for cloning but as I say
    they have automated the mrimg backups allot so I
    think it may be the same with cloning.

    https://postimg.cc/ft67JpfL

    https://postimg.cc/8sZJKq6r

    https://postimg.cc/wtnFm16g

    https://postimg.cc/xNV2tjPS

    https://postimg.cc/TKgHJj4h

    https://postimg.cc/qg2h0zSy

    https://postimg.cc/RNQPD1BY

    https://postimg.cc/JtdJ4GQh

    https://postimg.cc/3dcPBCFH

    https://postimg.cc/FY2z2SmM

    https://postimg.cc/CZgYGswx

    https://postimg.cc/yDqzKygy

    I typed somesite.com and this is what it showed:

    https://postimg.cc/SXPKWz1T

    It's interesting you looked up Righteous Warriors,
    It was started by someone I use to know and I was
    surprised it still was up. I tried contacting him but
    never got a reply.

    I barely am understanding you with the IPV4 and
    IPV6 addresses. I'm trying to follow along.

    Is there anything you want me to do? Run any
    tests?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Oct 27 04:18:02 2023
    I removed the Apple programs from the 780 but kept
    SequoiaView. You never know, I may need it again.

    Hopefully, we can get the 6TB hd up and running before
    Nov 1 for the mrimgs.

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Oct 28 06:26:41 2023
    On 10/27/2023 7:18 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I removed the Apple programs from the 780 but kept
    SequoiaView. You never know, I may need it again.

    Hopefully, we can get the 6TB hd up and running before
    Nov 1 for the mrimgs.

    Robert


    If we don't make it bootable, it can be ready in about
    30 seconds.

    See my other post, for how to boot the 6TB drive :-)
    It's not as easy as I thought.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Oct 28 06:24:58 2023
    On 10/27/2023 5:37 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I have my 6 TB hd and now just waiting for the case.
    Then I'll try cloning it.

    Here's your instructions for cloning but as I say
    they have automated the mrimg backups allot so I
    think it may be the same with cloning.

    https://postimg.cc/ft67JpfL

    <some snipped for brevity>

    https://postimg.cc/yDqzKygy

    I typed somesite.com and this is what it showed:

    https://postimg.cc/SXPKWz1T

    It's interesting you looked up Righteous Warriors,
    It was started by someone I use to know and I was
    surprised it still was up. I tried contacting him but
    never got a reply.

    I barely am understanding you with the IPV4 and
    IPV6 addresses. I'm trying to follow along.

    Is there anything you want me to do? Run any
    tests?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The reference to "somesite.com" was similar to "example.com",
    just to show you the format.

    Not to actually go there.

    I wanted you to type a domain name, "example.com" or
    whatever domain you're trying to use.

    *******

    These links may point at the Macrium cloning disk instructions.
    One of these links should work.

    Clicking the "Download Original" <===

    allows you to keep a copy of the single file with all the pictures in it.

    https://s22.postimg.cc/487zw4g1d/Clone_Disk.gif
    https://postimg.cc/Zv6vZckT

    *******

    As it turns out, your request to "just clone the 2TB bootable backup drive
    to the 6TB drive", this is a bit more complicated than expected :-)

    You see, your previous backup drives (with their boot OS on them),
    they were 2TB drives. That wasn't by accident, by the way. I am
    a schemer. A schemer who hates surprises.

    You can take the new 6TB drive, make it GPT
    (GUID Partition Table, instead of MSDOS MBR partition table type),
    and then in Disk Management, you can define the entire
    6TB drive, as one partition.

    That works fine.

    The money is not wasted, because, you can use the *entire* drive
    for backups. No problemo. When it asks what flavor of partitioning
    you want, a 6TB drive works best with "GPT".

    The problem comes, when you try to fit the older OS image you've
    got, onto the 6TB drive. Remember that MSDOS MBR partitioned disks,
    they work up to 2.2TB, so a 2.0TB disk was a "perfect fit for the job".

    The MBR only has enough address space for the 2TB drive. It cannot
    access storage above that point. There are two "hacks" for turning the
    space above 2TB, into separate virtual drives (Acronis Capacity Manager
    is one of the methods), but these are not practical. I used to run that,
    but I got rid of it, because it was making me crazy.

    If the disk is made GPT, and we want to boot the OS, we have:

    UEFI GPT <=== most users do this. The OS installer does this
    It is unlikely the Optiplex 780 has UEFI. I am
    unable to confirm whether A15 BIOS update for the 780,
    actually has UEFI option in it.

    CSM GPT <=== this can be done with a Syslinux replacement MBR,
    plus setting a GPT attribute bit, to support legacy
    "boot flag" or Active flag, but in GPT-land.

    https://superuser.com/questions/1750366/boot-a-legacy-bios-os-on-a-gpt-mass-memory

    https://mirrors.edge.kernel.org/pub/linux/utils/boot/syslinux/Testing/6.04/syslinux-6.04-pre1.tar.xz

    "You can install the Syslinux MBR boot code (gptmbr.bin), which behaves very much
    like traditional MBRs that jump to an active partition's PBR, but understands GPT
    partition tables and looks for a similarly named GPT attribute flag. (Specifically,
    it checks bit 2 which gdisk calls "Legacy BIOS bootable.") The rest of Syslinux
    is not needed."

    You will notice this article,

    https://wiki.syslinux.org/wiki/index.php?title=Mbr

    does not address setting the GPT Attribute
    in order to make gptmbr.bin to jump to the correct partition. You can set
    some GPT things in Linux, which is what the previous paragraph proposes.
    But "diskpart.exe" utility in Windows can also do that, and I've already had
    to repair one GPT Attribute in the past using that.

    You can help, by taking a screenshot of Disk Management (diskmgmt.msc)
    of the 780 2TB bootable backup drive, to help me verify I'm preparing
    my new recipe properly.

    I hope by doing it this strange way, I will *AVOID* asking you to:

    1) Flash update the Optiplex 780 BIOS. I don't want to do that.
    It is unlikely to help, and I can't verify it would help.

    2) Use the Microsoft MBR2GPT.exe utility. If you have your Win10 you installed
    to get the Win10 license, there might be a copy of MBR2GPT.exe on there.
    I don't really want to do that.

    Instead, the steps will likely involve.

    1) Macrium Reflect clone of Win7 C: and System Reserved, to the 6TB disk.
    2) dd.exe transfer of 440 byte "gptmbr.bin" binary file, to the MBR sector.
    This leaves the 0xEE protective partition single entry in the partition table, alone.
    3) A diskpart session, selecting the currently active partition, and
    making it active by setting GPT attribute to 0x4 or so. It'll be
    something like that.
    4) Test boot of the new setup, to see it vectors based on the GPT attribute it finds.
    The reason the GPT attribute must be set, is the traditional 0x80 boot flag
    has no equivalent in GPT-land directly (the same way as before).

    Anyway, post a screenshot of the 2TB backup drive in Disk Management
    (not file explorer), so I can have a look at it. In Windows 7,
    Start : Run : diskmgmt.msc will give a nice clean picture.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Oct 28 05:05:21 2023
    I have the set of instructions for cloning
    when you initially gave them to me.

    I accidentally clicked on the Syslinux
    download on the 8500 but deleted it
    afterwards.

    I don't understand, we never went through
    all of this with the other 6TB hd as I remember.
    Maybe we didn't make it boot-able? They weren't
    meant to be after all they are external drives.

    Let me ask a question. As it is now, once I
    get the case for it could I create a folder on
    the 6TB hd for mrimgs without a OS? If
    so, I think that's what I did with the other 6TB
    because that's actually all I see on my other 6TB
    hd. Just a folder that says 8500 mrimgs, nothing
    else.

    Here's the pics, I hope I did it right:

    https://postimg.cc/PpDx6pj2

    I typed run : diskmgmt.msc

    https://postimg.cc/87Cz2nGF

    https://postimg.cc/YjkGXRvF

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Oct 28 08:48:10 2023
    On 10/28/2023 8:05 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I have the set of instructions for cloning
    when you initially gave them to me.

    I accidentally clicked on the Syslinux
    download on the 8500 but deleted it
    afterwards.

    I don't understand, we never went through
    all of this with the other 6TB hd as I remember.
    Maybe we didn't make it boot-able? They weren't
    meant to be after all they are external drives.

    Let me ask a question. As it is now, once I
    get the case for it could I create a folder on
    the 6TB hd for mrimgs without a OS? If
    so, I think that's what I did with the other 6TB
    because that's actually all I see on my other 6TB
    hd. Just a folder that says 8500 mrimgs, nothing
    else.

    Here's the pics, I hope I did it right:

    https://postimg.cc/PpDx6pj2

    I typed run : diskmgmt.msc

    https://postimg.cc/87Cz2nGF

    https://postimg.cc/YjkGXRvF

    Robert


    The string to be entered in the Run box is just

    diskmgmt.msc

    That should do it.

    *******

    Your first post is interesting. That looks like the
    regular OS boot drive. Where you've made C: take up
    all the space. You can certainly do that.

    For the backup drives, I think we made the C: in that
    case, a lot smaller. Macrium has a "resize" thing so
    you can reduce the size of a partition while working
    on it.

    Your OS drive is like this:

    +-----+--------------+--------------------------------------------+
    | MBR | 4GB recovery | Huge C: drive | +-----+--------------+--------------------------------------------|

    Whereas for the backup drives which double as emergency OSes, they
    were supposed to look like this. Sometimes, there are advantages
    to separating the OS (that might not get used very much), from
    the partition with the backups in it. Then, if you ever need to
    "overwrite" the Small C: with a clean OS image, you can do it.

    +-----+--------------+----------+---------------------------------+
    | MBR | 4GB recovery | Small C: | Huge Data D: for backups | +-----+--------------+----------+---------------------------------+

    *******

    And absolutely, if you want to make the 6TB into a single Data partition
    6TB long, you can do that. Windows 7 supports GPT disks with 6TB partitions,
    no problem, as a place for the output from backup software.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Oct 28 07:48:26 2023
    Here's dickmgmt.msc

    https://postimg.cc/v4gK3BtS

    https://postimg.cc/DmxYhsCM

    Can we leave the 6TB hd un-bootable and just a stand alone hd for
    mrimgs and nothing else? I already have two backup 2TB hd's, plus
    the 2TB hd with mrimgs being retired and I have the old WD hd and
    two other spare 2TB hd's with Win 10 on them. All bootable

    I prefer we use the new 6TB hd as a dedicated external hd for 780
    mrimgs only. I checked and there's nothing else on the 6TB hd for the 8500 except the mrimgs folder. Is it possible to do the same for the new 6TB
    hd for the 780 with just a folder for Mrimgs and no OS?


    https://postimg.cc/HVwhcK3V

    https://postimg.cc/5Qxnw9sy

    https://postimg.cc/YvcLVDwf

    https://postimg.cc/4mpxKJrV

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Oct 28 11:52:09 2023
    I have the case, so am going to try to put the hd inside it.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Oct 28 12:29:55 2023
    I have the 6TB hd in the case but haven't tested it as yet.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Oct 28 13:48:57 2023
    I tested the 6TB hd on the 780 I opened Macrium
    but I couldn't see how I could create a folder for
    mrimgs.

    It didn't seem to see the 6TB hd to give me access
    to the drive but it recognized it. When I did
    diskmgmt.msc it showed up unallocated. I then
    right clicked it for properties because I thought
    you may want to see it.

    So how do I created a folder for mrimgs?

    https://postimg.cc/ZBQ9RRBp

    https://postimg.cc/XBwVb7wV

    https://postimg.cc/Pvkj2s00

    https://postimg.cc/qzwTXFwZ

    https://postimg.cc/QHfMxC2t

    https://postimg.cc/V5RfD5LR

    https://postimg.cc/Q9DDqZ2w

    https://postimg.cc/21BfR5mg

    https://postimg.cc/m1r0dL8X

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Oct 29 11:50:34 2023
    On 10/28/2023 8:48 AM, Paul wrote:


    And absolutely, if you want to make the 6TB into a single Data partition
    6TB long, you can do that. Windows 7 supports GPT disks with 6TB partitions, no problem, as a place for the output from backup software.

    I tried to get the syslinux thing to work, but it's a no-go so far.

    It is reading "something" and it finds an error, but it
    won't give details on the error, so I have nothing to go on.

    Just use the thing as a 6TB backup partition. When you receive
    the drive, it may already have been initialized GPT (since that
    exposes the whole 6TB, whereas an MBR partition only
    exposes 2.2TB).

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 29 09:13:47 2023
    I have the 6TB hd and case and I've put the drive in the case.

    I'm not following you. Are you saying to proceed and clone
    the 6TB hd and edit the partition as in your instructions?

    https://postimg.cc/67v7mXT0

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 29 17:08:08 2023
    Here are your instructions for editing the
    partition during cloning.

    https://postimg.cc/qhDfm1Ds

    https://postimg.cc/CBQtCzdJ

    https://postimg.cc/Bj0zCWQW

    https://postimg.cc/6761DdvY

    https://postimg.cc/zbV2f8ph

    Should I proceed?
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 29 17:11:03 2023
    I haven't done anything as yet other than put the
    6TB hd in the case.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Oct 30 04:14:52 2023
    I tried to clone the 6TB hd but it couldn't see it
    or I did something wrong? Is Boot X the 6TB hd?
    I'm just guessing at this point.

    https://postimg.cc/6TWtSXxC

    https://postimg.cc/wt5YfWWW

    https://postimg.cc/d7Yzy2qG

    https://postimg.cc/q6zYTQLH

    https://postimg.cc/QFLz2QKv

    Please advise,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Oct 30 04:18:10 2023
    I just realized it can't be BootX so where is the 6TB hd?
    Why doesn't it see it even if un-allocated.

    Thoughts/suggestions,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Oct 30 13:05:22 2023
    I tried again and did diskmgmt.msc on the 780
    to verify that the 780 could see the un-allocated
    partition before I attempted to clone it.

    https://postimg.cc/7CYScH0G

    However, it did the same as before and did not see
    it. How can I clone it if it doesn't see it? How did we
    set up the other 6TB hd? I must be doing something
    wrong.

    https://postimg.cc/njMFN53G

    https://postimg.cc/PNgXFSY1

    https://postimg.cc/jLYThLYX

    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Oct 31 05:17:11 2023
    On 10/30/2023 4:05 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I tried again and did diskmgmt.msc on the 780
    to verify that the 780 could see the un-allocated
    partition before I attempted to clone it.

    https://postimg.cc/7CYScH0G

    However, it did the same as before and did not see
    it. How can I clone it if it doesn't see it? How did we
    set up the other 6TB hd? I must be doing something
    wrong.

    https://postimg.cc/njMFN53G

    https://postimg.cc/PNgXFSY1

    https://postimg.cc/jLYThLYX

    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert


    OK, the first picture at the top, is GOOD. [ https://postimg.cc/7CYScH0G ]

    In the picture, I see an OS that is GPT-aware and it recognizes the disk
    as a 6TB drive.

    In Disk Management, while the regular OS is running, you can click the 6TB area,
    and use New Simple Volume. I don't see a reason to be cloning at the moment,
    at least for usage on the Optiplex 780, since the Optiplex 780 won't boot
    a GPT disk (even when using a Syslinux boot thingy). That's what I tested.

    If the disk was not initialized, you would select the left-most box
    with the Disk Number, and initialize as GPT. Then, a New Simple Volume
    on the right-hand chunk, should allow you to allocate the entire 6TB
    as s single NTFS partition.

    Doing Properties on the left-most box on a Disk Management row, and
    looking in Volumes tab, the word "GPT" should be there if the disk is
    now initialized properly. The 6TB disk row, should be a GPT one.

    It is OK for the original Windows 7 boot drive, to be a 2TB MBR or MSDOS
    hard drive, as MSDOS partitioning is good up to 2.2TB and the disk is
    just 2.0TB in size.

    This is just for interest sake. When the newer GPT scheme is used, there
    is the traditional partition table on the left. The MBR is a mere 512 bytes
    and it has room for 4 partitions (like Primary ones). In the same way an
    Apple computer does it, when GPT initialize is done, the MBR is marked
    in a way, to advise older OSes to not mess with anything. The 0xEE partition
    is defined as 2.2TB, leaving no room for an older OS (WinXP) to make any more partitions. This helps keep the other three entries as 0x00. The actual functioning
    partitions are in the GPT table. The secondary table at the end of the disk,
    is a copy of the primary table on the left, in case the left one is corrupted. These have very little impact on your usage of the disk, as the
    storage cluster section is still 6TB. In the storage cluster section
    is where you will be defining your New Simple Volume 6TB NTFS. The GPT partition table is ~64KB and has room for 128 partition definitions.

    +---------------------+-------------------------+----------------------------+--------------------------------+
    | | | | |
    MBR 4 entry table GPT Partition Table <=== storage clusters ===> Secondary GPT Partition Table
    0xEE #1 Microsoft Basic Data + + #1 Microsoft Basic Data
    0x00
    0x00
    0x00

    *******

    We're doing good so far. Since the normal OS sees the disk and
    we are initializing it and we are defining a 6TB NTFS volume on it.

    The problem is, your Macrium Rescue CD was made with a particular version
    of WinPE. With a missing 6TB USB disk drive, the USB driver is likely
    missing. The Optiplex 780 does not have USB3 ports - it is hard to explain
    why the driver is missing on an Optiplex 780 (anything plugged into
    a USB2 port, should be visible). If you are doing
    this experiment on the XPS 8500, it has a USB3 port, and a really
    old Macrium CD will not have the USB3 driver. The disk being invisible
    using Macrium CD on the 8500 is easier to explain.

    That might take WinPE 5 or WinPE 10 when making a new CD with
    the recent Macrium versions. WinPE 10 has been around since about
    2015 or 2016 or so.

    Summary:

    Optiplex 780 - hard to explain the disk not being visible.
    - if it was visible, the size info could be wrong.

    XPS 8500 - with old enough Macrium Rescue CD, the drive might be missing entirely.
    This can happen if the USB3 driver is not available to the CD OS.

    The WinPE version, can have a USB3 driver in it. While
    Macrium offers to bind in a USB3 driver separately, usually
    that's an advanced topic (finding the right driver format,
    finding a driver, maybe they offer a driver in the kit, etc).

    With a more modern WinPE choice, the driver is already there.
    (Because it is part of the integrated OS booting kit.)

    I tested with a WinPE 3.1 version and the 6TB USB disk was missing.
    (I have a few 6TB drives for testing.)

    While it is possible an enclosure might not be 6TB compatible,
    we have the nice result in your GOOD picture, proving the USB enclosure
    works. That's a relief.

    Try building some new media.

    If the Optiplex had a USB3 plugin card added to the slots,
    then that would benefit from the modern WinPE versions as well.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Oct 31 05:07:53 2023
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Oct 31 05:28:43 2023
    I'll try dismounting the external hd's by safely removing them
    when I do the mrimgs tonight and let you know how it goes.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Oct 31 06:09:46 2023
    I checked and I made spare Rescue Cd's for the
    8500 in 2022 and spare Rescue CD's for the 780
    in 2023. Should I be using these or make new ones?

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Oct 31 05:20:09 2023
    It's true, on the 8500 it doesn't see the 3.0(blue)USB port when running macrium so I have to wait till the screen goes black before I pull the
    plug. I haven't tested it without the macrium running to see if I can safely remove the plug.

    The 780 see's the 2.0 connection(black) and lets me disconnect it safely
    when not running macrium but it's the same way, it doesn't see the ports
    during macrium but they are obviously working. They just don't let me disconnect safely.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Nov 1 06:33:48 2023
    I checked to see if macrium detected the external 6TB hd
    before starting the mrimg and to identify the drive letter.

    https://postimg.cc/DJcysrMH

    The mrimg completed successfully

    https://postimg.cc/kRB34W3x

    https://postimg.cc/JymfXfC7

    https://postimg.cc/9DHK36MP

    Then I checked to see if I could safely disconnect
    by clicking the lower right icon

    https://postimg.cc/1g9dXDDf

    I also checked the 8500 after it's mrimg to see if I could
    safely disconnect by clicking the lower right icon.

    https://postimg.cc/KRPQTRGL

    I used the 2023 Rescue CD with the 780 and the 2022
    Rescue CD with the 8500.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Nov 1 14:57:05 2023
    What did you mean by building new media?

    I thought maybe we could upgrade the 780 from 2.0 USB ports (black)
    to 3.0 USB ports (Blue) but it doesn't seem like I would be able
    because on the front with the USB ports it also has plug- ins for mic and headphones although I don't use either. Similar to this configuration:

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Restored-Dell-780-Desktop-PC-with-Intel-Core-2-Duo-Processor-4GB-Memory-1TB-Hard-Drive-and-Windows-10-Pro-Monitor-Not-Included-Refurbished/22394341?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=5787&adid=2222222222722394341_5787_
    155075802957_20717494264&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=678789797442&wl4=pla-2234362938896&wl5=1014127&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113945645&wl11=online&wl12=22394341_5787&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjw7oeqBhBwEiwALyHLM5UDHynxvin3w7Lej-cSne9YcqQm_08Ajn_Z-UHatjfbr_
    rAYMGCZhoC840QAvD_BwE

    Here's a shot inside the 780

    https://postimg.cc/njvyX9xC

    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 2 05:53:19 2023
    Would it be possible to add RAMM to the 780?
    Are the black slots at the top for RAMM ?

    https://postimg.cc/gXBCMmbF

    If so how much would they cost and what kind?
    I would have to wait till the end of the month to do
    this.

    What do you think?
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 2 18:20:29 2023
    We've moved the bookmarks and 'My Documents'
    to the 780 and installed Word and Excel, and created
    a simple volume of the 6TB external HD so it's now
    functional, all with your good help.

    I'm not forgetting your elegant solution for the start
    switch for the 8500 with no soldering! I hid the switch
    behind a faux optical drive panel so it keeps it clean and
    out of sight. Now it starts all the time.

    Before we may get cut off, I want to say thank you for
    all you've done. You've helped me allot over the years
    and built my entire backup system and helped me select
    the 780.

    What do you think about upgrading the 780 RAMM and
    USB ports from 2:0 to 3.0? Is it possible?

    What do you recommend I do at this point?

    Many Thanks for all your good help,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Nov 4 22:04:59 2023
    Paul can you see my messages I've sent?

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Nov 5 06:12:47 2023
    On 11/2/2023 8:53 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Would it be possible to add RAMM to the 780?
    Are the black slots at the top for RAMM ?

    https://postimg.cc/gXBCMmbF

    If so how much would they cost and what kind?
    I would have to wait till the end of the month to do
    this.

    What do you think?
    Robert


    If you have 8GB in there, I don't know if more
    is going to help. It all depends what whizzy
    project you have in mind.

    The machine takes up to 4x4GB sticks of DDR3.
    When you install 16GB, the address space in the
    chipset isn't big enough for it all. It registers
    around 14.9GB or less. The video card VRAM comes
    out of the same address space, so the amount
    of DRAM that registers with Windows, is 16GB - vidcard
    minus a little bit.

    DDR3 is now out of production. DDR4 and DDR5 are
    still being made, but I expect DDR4 will fade out
    before too long. The industry is on a belt-tightening
    spree, and no stupidities are off the table when it
    comes to the stopping of manufacturing.

    You don't have to buy at Crucial and there is nothing
    special about the RAM. The thing to note here, is
    the "Crucial 4GB DDR3L-1600 UDIMM" part. These are slightly
    lower voltage DIMMs, which are backward compatible with the
    Optiplex. The DIMMs are CL=11 at 1600. The Optiplex runs
    at 1066. 11*1066/1600 ==> CL=7 so they will run at CAS 7.

    https://www.crucial.com/compatible-upgrade-for/dell/optiplex-780-desktop

    Isn't it sad, when the only stock of an American product,
    is in China ??? This is what shutting down DDR3 production
    has done.

    https://www.newegg.com/crucial-8gb-240-pin-ddr3-sdram/p/N82E16820156050

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Nov 5 05:59:09 2023
    On 11/1/2023 5:57 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    What did you mean by building new media?

    I thought maybe we could upgrade the 780 from 2.0 USB ports (black)
    to 3.0 USB ports (Blue) but it doesn't seem like I would be able
    because on the front with the USB ports it also has plug- ins for mic and headphones although I don't use either. Similar to this configuration:

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Restored-Dell-780-Desktop-PC-with-Intel-Core-2-Duo-Processor-4GB-Memory-1TB-Hard-Drive-and-Windows-10-Pro-Monitor-Not-Included-Refurbished/22394341?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=5787&adid=2222222222722394341_5787_
    155075802957_20717494264&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=678789797442&wl4=pla-2234362938896&wl5=1014127&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113945645&wl11=online&wl12=22394341_5787&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjw7oeqBhBwEiwALyHLM5UDHynxvin3w7Lej-cSne9YcqQm_08Ajn_Z-UHatjfbr_
    rAYMGCZhoC840QAvD_BwE

    Here's a shot inside the 780

    https://postimg.cc/njvyX9xC

    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert


    I did not see your posts, so they may not have been
    showing on this server immediately.

    *******

    You would use the PCI Express black slot at the bottom of the Optiplex 780.

    It would likely be a black x1 slot.

    This card uses a Renesas (NEC) USB3.0 chip.

    Drivers for this go back to Windows XP. Whereas
    Asmedia USB3 cards might start at Windows 7 and have MCCI drivers
    (contract drivers, nothing wrong with them). It all depends
    on what is available, and at what price. There were some other
    brands I would not recommend, and the eTron USB3 offering, I
    don't know if they make cards with that or not any more. You have to be
    careful to not get a USB3 card with an x4 connector (a wider connector
    than the gold pins on this one), as it won't fit in your x1 available
    slot. The x4 cards would only fit in your x16 graphics card slot, and
    the Optiplex is also snotty about only putting vid cards in
    the x16 slot.

    https://www.newegg.com/syba-model-sd-pex20139-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815124120

    That card-clamp (screwless) on the 780 is the hardest part of the exercise. Should work fine, as long as the card-clamp is not damaged. The
    retention with screws, works so much better...

    You would unplug the 780 from the wall, so that there's no
    power in the slots. Then insert the card. Put the faceplate
    clamp back in place. Power up machine, if there is a mini-CD
    in the box that came with the card, install the drivers
    from there. For Windows 10 or Windows 11, the OS can fetch
    its own driver. For Windows 7, you use the CD in the box.

    If the card is properly seated, you won't be able to see
    the gold, shining off the pins on the edgecard.

    If you use WinPE 5 or WinPE 10 when making Macrium Rescue media,
    there should be drivers for the USB3 in there, and no
    need to add drivers manually to the Macrium Rescue build.

    You can make new media, and there's a good chance it will
    work on the 780 and the 8500, as they would both likely
    support legacy (MSDOS) boot.

    As far as boot processes, the 780 does not normally look
    at cards like that. You could not boot a Linux Live USB
    stick from the new card. But once any OS is running (including
    Macrium), the card should then work. In a sense, it is a
    "data card", which works once any kind of OS is booted.
    Even Linux will recognize those cards, once Linux is running.

    The four pin Molex power on the card, is "optional". For
    high power loads, such as charging your iPad while the Optiplex
    is running, then you might connect a power cable to it. But
    if running the data cable from a self contained (wall powered)
    disk enclosure like you are using, the converter on the card
    will make some +5V for USB VBUS, from +12V on the PCI Express
    edgecard. When using these sorts of cards here (I have a couple),
    I've never connected any 4 pin Molex optional or 15 pin SATA power
    optional inputs and it works fine. Mind you, I don't charge iPads
    or iPhones either :-) They might be on the order of 2 amps or so,
    as an electrical load. I don't know whether the iPad is clever
    enough to not overload a USB2 port (which would not have enough
    charging current for heavy loads anyway).

    I don't know if I've ever seen a transfer rate that matches
    any baloney written on the cardboard box. The Optiplex 780 might
    be PCI Express Rev 1.1 (250MB/sec) in the small black slot.
    With your enclosure, it should do on the order of 200MB/sec.
    Versus the 30-35MB/sec of a USB2 port. You can see in my picture
    here, the two OSes don't give exactly the same result, and I believe
    the transfer rate is actually identical and the math is wrong.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/9FrNY7kx/Benchmarking-Renesas-USB3-PCIe11.gif

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Nov 5 06:24:42 2023
    On 11/2/2023 9:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    We've moved the bookmarks and 'My Documents'
    to the 780 and installed Word and Excel, and created
    a simple volume of the 6TB external HD so it's now
    functional, all with your good help.

    I'm not forgetting your elegant solution for the start
    switch for the 8500 with no soldering! I hid the switch
    behind a faux optical drive panel so it keeps it clean and
    out of sight. Now it starts all the time.

    Before we may get cut off, I want to say thank you for
    all you've done. You've helped me allot over the years
    and built my entire backup system and helped me select
    the 780.

    What do you think about upgrading the 780 RAMM and
    USB ports from 2:0 to 3.0? Is it possible?

    What do you recommend I do at this point?

    Many Thanks for all your good help,
    Robert

    Past a certain point, RAM is only useful for certain kinds
    of projects.

    When your browser "goes nuts", it can use 3GB of RAM. This
    means, that maybe 4GB would be a minimum amount of RAM for
    the Optiplex. Even though this is not a good usage of the
    RAM particularly (it's a bug, not a feature), that would be
    an example of a planning exercise.

    Windows Update, when new updates were available, a minimum
    amount of RAM might have helped that. Some uses by the OS,
    would benefit from 2GB to 3GB, even though the amount
    written on the box is 1GB minimum. It needs a bit more
    than that, to work well.

    But when it comes to RAM amounts between 4GB and 16GB.
    adding more RAM is "planning for an uncertain future",
    but in terms of "feeling some benefit right away",
    there is a very good chance you would not get "$38 of fun"
    from it :-) I do not want to set your expectations too high
    on this. You put in the extra RAM (I have done this), and
    the feeling is... no change. Not a bit of change.

    And the Optiplex 780 is clever, and it won't switch up to
    DDR3-1333 rates when there is an opportunity to do it either.
    This is part of the reason there is no "fun factor" involved
    here.

    The USB3 card, the benefit of that is tangible, in that
    your backups should run faster. Note that some modern
    drives, do run pretty fast. For example, the monster-sized
    drives for sale (the ones that are too expensive for mere
    humans to own), those transfer at 291MB/sec. I have a number
    of fairly rubbish drives here, that do 150MB/sec on the
    outer edge of the platter. The new USB3 card, at an actual
    rate of 200MB/sec, is in the ballpark, but if you had
    a $700 hard drive, that still would not be fast enough.
    (Nothing bad happens, but the drive could have gone faster still.)
    Only by placing the USB3 card in the video slot, could
    the Optiplex do better, and I'm not sure the Dell will
    even allow that. The Dell BIOS is funky (a 1970s term),
    to say the least :-)

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Nov 5 06:31:32 2023
    You would use the PCI Express black slot at the bottom of the Optiplex 780

    Are you talking about the card where the fan is?

    I thought that was my video card? I seem to remember you selected that card
    for me.

    I don't use any ipads or iphones,.. in fact my phone is the old fashion landline type.

    I don't really have any projects in mind I just thinking of upgrading if you think
    it would help or because I may not be able to later on because of scarcity of available
    parts but as you say I won't see any real improvement. I always thought more RAMM
    made browsing faster?

    It is sad all of our jobs and manufacturing has been off-shored to China
    and elsewhere and they've been stealing our intellectual property for decades. What's even more shocking is we let them get away with it. We built China's military complex.

    So should I just stay with just what I have on the 780? and not mess with it? It sounds like I shouldn't and should leave well enough alone. I don't want to be
    messing around with the 780 Bios for 3.0.

    The mrimg backups for the 8500 usually take about 3 1/2 hours because I have so
    much data in My Documents.

    One last problem, I have a 8GB Sandisk with a folder I want to cut/paste to get the
    files off so I can re-use the disk but it doesn't let me where before it had? All it lets
    me do now is copy/paste. So how can I delete the folder? I have a 32 GB Sandisk that
    I can cut/paste with no problem.

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Nov 5 08:39:00 2023
    I went and ordered the PCI card and RAM
    so that would give me 12GB of RAM in the
    780. The same as the 8500.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Nov 5 08:24:15 2023
    I checked and the folder is read only so how do I change it so I
    can cut/paste it or delete it so I can free up space on the Sandisk?

    I also checked the 780 and it only has 4GB of RAM, so maybe adding
    more wouldn't hurt? I can also do the 3.0. but which PCI connector is
    it again? I don't see a back PCI at the bottom except for the small one
    below the two white ones. Is that the one you mean?

    At the top are two black slots for RAM correct?

    https://postimg.cc/njvyX9xC


    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Nov 5 15:26:09 2023
    While I was relating my problem with the Sandisk
    I realized I had no way of reading them on the 780.
    Is there a PCI card I can get or a device that will plug
    in to the USB port with Sandisk slots that I can use?

    https://postimg.cc/gXBCMmbF

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Nov 5 17:51:26 2023
    I also wanted to let you know that recently
    whenever I post a message I get a pop-up asking
    if I'm a robot? So maybe I am being flagged
    and that's why you can't see my posts?

    https://postimg.cc/1gXB6MGk

    This never happened before when I posted.

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Nov 6 06:11:15 2023
    On 11/5/2023 11:39 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I went and ordered the PCI card and RAM
    so that would give me 12GB of RAM in the
    780. The same as the 8500.

    Robert


    You want the RAM to be dual channel configured,
    for best performance.

    I presume your proposed upgrade, looks like this.

    CH0 CH1

    2GB 2GB <=== DIMMS in same-colored slots
    4GB 4GB

    If so, that should be a good configuration. That
    should do well on any dual channel motherboard with
    four slots like that.

    Intel has Flex Memory support, on some of its hardware,
    and the Optiplex might have that. When a box has
    Flex Memory, you can do this for dual channel

    CH0 CH1

    2GB 4GB Flex Memory works with balanced channel totals...
    2GB ---

    The confirmation the Q45 can do this (Optiplex 780),
    is on page 527 here, in the "13.2 System Memory Controller" section.

    You don't have to stare at all those blasted tables :-) Section
    13.2.1.2.2 has the keyword that it is there.

    https://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/datasheets/4-chipset-family-datasheet.pdf

    The absolute best mode, is to use identical sticks with
    as many pages open as possible in the RAM. The sticks to
    do this, haven't been for sale for a long time. The higher
    capacity DIMMs you can buy today, mean you can't get
    absolutely the max number of ranks and banks and so on.
    But even with single sided RAM, this is pretty good.
    The memory controller alternates between banks, as
    it rises through the address map. If you were a comp.sci
    guy, you would write a C program and test the "stride" to figure
    out which address bit is the "pivot" for the bank alternation.

    CH0 CH1

    4GB 4GB <=== DIMMS in same-colored slots
    4GB 4GB

    This one might be 0.5% lower performance (a definite "Who Cares").

    CH0 CH1

    2GB 2GB <=== DIMMS in same-colored slots
    4GB 4GB

    I couldn't guess whether the following has an impact on page policy.
    I'd need to run memory tests to try and spot a difference.

    CH0 CH1

    2GB 4GB Flex Memory works with balanced channel totals...
    2GB ---

    What really would have helped, is if the machine supported 1333
    operation. I think the chipset actually can do that, but the
    BIOS isn't set up for that. The machine has a series of
    FSB:RAM ratios and companies like Asus and Gigabyte do researches
    in the lab to find "missing modes" not in the documents and they
    enable them (as long as they're stable). That is how some
    of these things were discovered. When using 1333 mode, the
    build-in graphics (which you aren't using), would feel "snappy".
    On machines with integrated graphics, that's how we seek to
    convince a customer their graphics upgrade was "worth it". It's
    hard to convince them, otherwise.

    That's a little background info.

    If you saw an 8GB stick for sale, that might be two 4GB Ranks (2R)
    and consequently not a "high density" issue. The 4GB sticks
    could be single sided (1R) or double sided (2R), and while
    the 2R would give you more open pages, at this point in time,
    with the poor availability of stock, is not the time to be
    sorting through the pile, for stuff that no longer exists.

    I noticed on benches, that if you have the fully symmetric setup,
    and you compare your platform to someone elses, you might get 1% more
    without overclocking. But 1% isn't something you can feel, so
    we are strongly in "dont care" country, when it comes to fussing
    over it. The 1333 would have been a "care" case, but the BIOS
    just doesn't have the mode for that. I googled, and people make
    claims they've done it, but there is absolutely no confirmation
    info (a CPU-Z screenshot) to prove any such thing. Any one who was
    clever enough to have done it, would have screen shots :-)

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Nov 6 06:54:48 2023
    On 11/5/2023 9:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    You would use the PCI Express black slot at the bottom of the Optiplex 780

    Are you talking about the card where the fan is?

    I thought that was my video card? I seem to remember you selected that card for me.

    I don't use any ipads or iphones,.. in fact my phone is the old fashion landline type.

    I don't really have any projects in mind I just thinking of upgrading if you think
    it would help or because I may not be able to later on because of scarcity of available
    parts but as you say I won't see any real improvement. I always thought more RAMM
    made browsing faster?

    It is sad all of our jobs and manufacturing has been off-shored to China
    and elsewhere and they've been stealing our intellectual property for decades.
    What's even more shocking is we let them get away with it. We built China's military complex.

    So should I just stay with just what I have on the 780? and not mess with it? It sounds like I shouldn't and should leave well enough alone. I don't want to be
    messing around with the 780 Bios for 3.0.

    The mrimg backups for the 8500 usually take about 3 1/2 hours because I have so
    much data in My Documents.

    One last problem, I have a 8GB Sandisk with a folder I want to cut/paste to get the
    files off so I can re-use the disk but it doesn't let me where before it had? All it lets
    me do now is copy/paste. So how can I delete the folder? I have a 32 GB Sandisk that
    I can cut/paste with no problem.

    Thanks,
    Robert


    Your slot layout should be like this.

    Black PCIE x16 <=== video card, top slot, very fastest slot in the machine.
    PCI 33MHz 32bit white
    PCI 33MHz 32bit white
    Black PCIE x1 Rev1.1 <=== PCI Express x1 USB3 card goes here (200MB/sec).
    This slot is all the way down at the bottom, on a Desktop 780.
    This slot is faster than a white slot.

    It's a worthwhile upgrade.

    And if you can get the RAM, pop it in. One reason I have
    useless RAM in a machine, is I think up ways to use it :-)
    Excuses, if you will :-) I use RAM for a RAMDisk and put
    temporary files in it, while I work. If the power goes off ?
    Boom. I will have regrets. You don't store long-term stuff
    in there. But it's great if you're unpacking a Firefox source
    tarball, and don't want to beat up a regular storage device
    doing it.

    With 12GB of RAM in the machine, a browser would only use all
    of it, if some bug was at play in the code. You will remember the
    Yahoo News page, it was a pig, and it used 1GB for a single tab.
    Many other pages don't use that much.

    *******

    Your USB stick may have gone Read-only ?

    Are you able to store fresh folders of content on it ?

    Here, I am checking for a USB stick that is Read-only.
    No, I don't know how to fix it :-) Mine is still write-able
    at the device level.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/RhvdcVd7/checking-for-read-only-on-USB.gif

    It could be a permissions issue, if you are using your *non* administrator account. For accounts that belong to the administrator group (UAC, elevation), they will do an implicit TakeOwn to solve permissions problems.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Nov 6 05:03:17 2023
    To be honest, I didn't think about the configuration when I ordered
    the RAM from your link you gave. I just assumed everything
    would be OK and there's only 2 PCI slots for RAM that I can use.

    These are what I ordered:

    https://www.newegg.com/crucial-8gb-240-pin-ddr3-sdram/p/N82E16820156050

    Here's my 780 specs:

    https://postimg.cc/XZz4JJgf

    inside the 780

    https://postimg.cc/njvyX9xC

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Nov 6 07:31:37 2023
    On 11/5/2023 8:51 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I also wanted to let you know that recently
    whenever I post a message I get a pop-up asking
    if I'm a robot? So maybe I am being flagged
    and that's why you can't see my posts?

    https://postimg.cc/1gXB6MGk

    This never happened before when I posted.

    Robert


    Google. The gift that keeps on giving.

    Sometimes I wonder what the Google staff do for a living :-/

    Google groups has quite a spamming problem, so I suppose most
    of their posts are spam now (by volume). They should get their
    AI ("Bard") on the case, to sort it out for them.

    *******

    I got lucky, and found a hint about your problem, here.

    http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cui8tcr%244epd%241%40dont-email.me%3E

    "and, in addition, now Google Groups is requiring a CAPTCHA <===
    to post to any other group."

    That's why you're seeing the robot box. It is a policy to attempt
    to control the flood.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Nov 6 05:31:06 2023
    Yes, I understand the black PCI slot now and the the 3.0 port
    will actually be in the rear not the front because you mention the
    card clamp.

    I don't know if you remember that time with the 8200 and I had a
    maleware problem and you advised me go to this certain maleware
    group dealing with it. Well anyways, the guy there who helped me
    suggested I max out the RAM. So that's the reason I maxed the 8500
    out on RAM when I bought it and ironically the only way I could get the
    12 GB of RAM was with Win 7 Professional. Otherwise I would of gotten
    Win 8 instead.

    I don't understand how my SanDisk could go read-only? My other one
    is fine and I can cut/paste it.

    I can use it but I haven't been since I can't cut/paste anymore with it.
    I've done this allot on the User account, it just went weird on me.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Nov 6 07:29:13 2023
    Not my USB stick , my Sandisk 8GB SD card. Maybe I activated
    some sort of read-only protection on the digital camera by accident?

    I asked Google how to cut/paste on the right only Sandisk and this
    is what it gave:

    Disable write protection using command line (CMD)
    1. Connect your write protected SD card to your computer.
    2. Right Click on Start.- (right clicking only opens properties and Windows Explorer)
    3. Type diskpart and hit Enter.
    4. Type list disk and hit Enter. …
    5. Type select disk . …
    6. Type attributes disk clear readonly and press Enter.

    Should I try this?

    So is that the reason why you're not seeing my posts? Because of the Google groups spamming problem or is it more of a control problem like they had at Twitter and probably Facebook and the rest?

    I'll install the PCI card and RAM when it arrives but I was asking since the 780
    has no slots for SD cards could we provide one? or as an alternative do they make
    adapters that plug into the USB ports with different sizes of slots for SD cards to
    plug into?

    Thanks,
    Robert




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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Nov 6 17:23:16 2023
    I see there's lots of SD card readers with USB connection
    but is there any you would recommend?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 7 07:31:23 2023
    Should I defrag the computer using system tools? I
    haven't done it in quite awhile

    I would appreciate it if you could briefly take a look
    at the folders/files on my Patriot sticks to see if I
    should keep any or delete them?

    # 1 Patriot
    seems to be my bookmarks and an ISO for creating Rescue CD's (2022)

    https://postimg.cc/ykYkGwHD

    #2 Patriot

    780 Rescue Disk - another ISO, Autoruns., Boot, Drivers, EFI -
    has the same boot screens as in Boot folder, (mrimg, backup, clone) are
    your instructions you gave me previously. SequioaView, Sources - boot-wim, Autoruns, misc files,..

    https://postimg.cc/k6m5vHsX

    Inside Boot folder

    https://postimg.cc/v4ZfW4BS

    #3 Patriot
    Agent Ransack and misc files, most seem related to SequioaView

    https://postimg.cc/CZV03qqc


    Also I can't seem to find my instructions for creating Rescue CD's.
    Could you please provide them again for me? Also how do I create
    a Rescue CD from an ISO?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Nov 10 14:29:32 2023
    On 11/6/2023 8:03 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    To be honest, I didn't think about the configuration when I ordered
    the RAM from your link you gave. I just assumed everything
    would be OK and there's only 2 PCI slots for RAM that I can use.

    These are what I ordered:

    https://www.newegg.com/crucial-8gb-240-pin-ddr3-sdram/p/N82E16820156050

    Here's my 780 specs:

    https://postimg.cc/XZz4JJgf

    inside the 780

    https://postimg.cc/njvyX9xC

    Robert

    You have two white slots, and you've purchased two DIMMs.
    The DIMMs are DDR3. Looks good.

    Make sure the alignment slot is turned the right way, to
    match the key in the slot. That's how you tell whether the
    front and the back are pointed in the right direction.

    PC power should be off while doing the RAM install. If you have
    a power strip, and switch off the power with the switch, normally
    the safety ground would be left connected. Otherwise, don't worry about
    the details, just bring yourself to the same electrostatic potential
    as the chassis, when inserting the RAM. You can also do that with an
    ESD strap (a wrist strap with a 1 megohm series resistance to the
    other end of the strap). One end of the ESD strap can go to "chassis",
    any metal will do, the strap goes around your wrist, and now you're
    at the same ESD potential as the machine.

    Seating the DIMM is sometimes problematic, and requires some fiddling
    to get it to seat. As long as the slot in the middle of the DIMM,
    aligns with the key in the slot, such that the key fits into the slot, eventually it will be seated (thumb pressure downwards). The latch
    on the end, should end up in the upright position. The way the bottom
    edge is finished, determines the seating pressure required. A well ground
    edge on the DIMM, makes it easy to seat. I've had some with a very
    stupid edge profile, they were "blunt" and they took tremendous
    pressure to seat. I used a piece of wood (carefully), to get enough
    downward force for it to snap into place. That should normally
    not be required, that much force.

    No gold should be seen peeking over the socket. If it is properly
    seated, the gold will be below the plastic socket.

    Put the machine back together, remove your clip, restore power,
    and ideally your first test would be memtest CD. Normally, you
    want to verify the RAM is good, so it does not cause a corruption
    of Windows (if you boot Windows as your first test). You can verify
    your Memtest skills, before the new RAM arrives, and your ability
    to get the CD booted and so on.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Nov 10 15:37:58 2023
    On 11/7/2023 10:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Should I defrag the computer using system tools? I
    haven't done it in quite awhile

    I would appreciate it if you could briefly take a look
    at the folders/files on my Patriot sticks to see if I
    should keep any or delete them?

    # 1 Patriot
    seems to be my bookmarks and an ISO for creating Rescue CD's (2022)

    https://postimg.cc/ykYkGwHD

    The rescue.iso is only of value, if you need to burn some sort of media.
    If you've already made a CD from that, that would normally be enough
    to get the job done, with no additional fuss. I keep some of those
    files around, for running in a virtual machine, for test, but that's about
    it for those.


    #2 Patriot

    780 Rescue Disk - another ISO, Autoruns., Boot, Drivers, EFI -
    has the same boot screens as in Boot folder, (mrimg, backup, clone) are
    your instructions you gave me previously. SequioaView, Sources - boot-wim, Autoruns, misc files,..

    https://postimg.cc/k6m5vHsX

    Inside Boot folder

    https://postimg.cc/v4ZfW4BS

    You might boot some computer with this, when you want Macrium to run,
    as if it was a Macrium CD.


    #3 Patriot
    Agent Ransack and misc files, most seem related to SequioaView

    https://postimg.cc/CZV03qqc


    That's an "application stick", rather than a boot stick. You could
    probably recycle that and use it for something else.


    Also I can't seem to find my instructions for creating Rescue CD's.
    Could you please provide them again for me? Also how do I create
    a Rescue CD from an ISO?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    This shows the usage of "Imgburn" to burn a CD.

    The idea is, you right-click the ISO file you want
    placed on a CD, and Imgburn makes itself a default choice.

    https://i.postimg.cc/2rBMhX6k/burn-iso-win7-to-CD.gif

    Once Imgburn opens, it should open in the mode to burn an ISO.
    (That's why you used the right-click method of starting it,
    to get the mode selected.)

    You can tick Verify, so it writes the CD, then reads it
    back and verifies a good burn. This is more important for
    rewriteable media.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Nov 10 15:29:10 2023
    On 11/6/2023 10:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Not my USB stick , my Sandisk 8GB SD card. Maybe I activated
    some sort of read-only protection on the digital camera by accident?

    I asked Google how to cut/paste on the right only Sandisk and this
    is what it gave:

    Disable write protection using command line (CMD)
    1. Connect your write protected SD card to your computer.
    2. Right Click on Start.- (right clicking only opens properties and Windows Explorer)
    3. Type diskpart and hit Enter.
    4. Type list disk and hit Enter. …
    5. Type select disk . …
    6. Type attributes disk clear readonly and press Enter.

    Should I try this?

    So is that the reason why you're not seeing my posts? Because of the Google groups spamming problem or is it more of a control problem like they had at Twitter and probably Facebook and the rest?

    I'll install the PCI card and RAM when it arrives but I was asking since the 780
    has no slots for SD cards could we provide one? or as an alternative do they make
    adapters that plug into the USB ports with different sizes of slots for SD cards to
    plug into?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    I've been out working in the driveway this week.

    To the recipe above, I would select disk, list partitions,
    select partition x , detail partition and see if the
    Readonly is Yes or not.

    There's no point adjusting an attribute, unless the
    attribute is Readonly yes. If it is Readonly no,
    then clearing readonly isn't going to do anything.

    You first need to check the partition(s), by selecting
    them, numerically, and reading out their stuff. For
    example, you list partitions, you notice one partition
    is bigger than the rest, and that's the one you've been
    using. You want to "select partition x", where x=big partition number.
    Then when you "detail partition", you can see what attributes it has got.

    *******

    The 780 doesn't have a card reader in the floppy slot in the front.
    A card reader is a box with a faceplate, that fits in a 3.5" opening
    in the case. It has a USB cable that goes to a motherboard header.

    There is a 2x5 header, just below the door-closure-switch cable position.
    The door closure switch has a couple wires, red/black twist, and it sits
    on the 2xn header there. Just below that header, is an unused header that
    might be a USB header. However there is no legend next to it, to confirm
    what it is.

    https://dl.dell.com/manuals/all-products/esuprt_desktop/esuprt_optiplex_desktop/optiplex-780_service%20manual_en-us.pdf

    There is a 2x5 female on the end of this example, but they don't show
    it plugged into the motherboard. This might have been for sale at
    Dell ten years ago.

    https://prod-care-community-cdn.sprinklr.com/community/687062f5-603c-4f5f-ab9d-31aa7cacb376/communityasset-4cc91f2c-85f6-4b92-ad5f-f639aaa55334-843465895

    ( https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/optiplex-780-cable-for-the-internal-card-reader/647fa1e6f4ccf8a8de73f1b7 )

    It doesn't have to be a "special" card reader. Any card reader intended
    to fit a floppy bay would work. I don't like these to be too fancy, because when they're fancy, a given slot may accept three different devices, and
    then there is a danger of "lunching" the connector while inserting. I
    like single function slots for this. Extreme examples of this form of card reader, are "52-in-1", but the one in the Dell example is a "19-in-1".

    This is just to illustrate, this one comes with the tail on it. Neither
    a manual, nor a picture of the back of the unit, are available. Mystery meat.

    https://www.newegg.com/bytecc-u2cr-318-all-in-one/p/N82E16820192038

    Whereas this one, plugs into the front or the back of the machine.
    It is USB3, but the connector will fit a USB2 slot. This has fewer slots
    and they're more of a fixed function.

    StarTech SDMSDRWU3AC

    https://www.newegg.com/startech-com-sdmsdrwu3ac/p/N82E16820130026

    https://www.startech.com/en-us/hdd/sdmsdrwu3ac

    That might handle an SD at 95MB/sec (if plugged into a USB3 port,
    like the new USB3 port on the back of your 780). It would handle
    a 10MB/sec SD if plugged into a USB2 slot, just to give some idea
    how the slot type might affect the speed you get out of it.

    Mine is that style, but is an older one which only runs at USB2 rates
    and does my digital camera 10MB/sec SD.

    Because that one looks like a USB key, there's no wiring to do inside
    the 780 to make it work. And, it can be plugged into the 8500 as well.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Nov 10 21:20:59 2023
    I thought I lost you ! whew!

    I haven't got the RAM yet but I have the PCI 3.0 card
    and will install both when I get the RAM. I thought it
    would be here by now.

    So the white slots are for the RAM? OK, got it.
    Yes, I noticed the slot in the RAM when I bought it
    and on the white slots. so it should be easy What are
    the two large black slots at the top for? and just out of
    curiosity what are the blue and red things on the right
    side?

    Inside 780:

    https://postimg.cc/XXVDW6sz

    I'll un-plug the 780 and remove all the connections
    before I open it. I do have a strap, again thanks to you.
    I'll run a memtest CD after I power it back up.

    I think I'll skip the SD read only disk problem,.... I have enough
    on my plate. I'll just buy another SD disk and I have others that
    work fine.

    It's true the 780 doesn't have a card reader on the front
    but there are two empty face plates, one is normal size but
    the other one is smaller. However, I like the card reader you picked
    with the USB connection. So I'll get the Startech.

    I deleted all the files off the Patriot #3 USB stick so it's all clean

    I de-fragged both computers and the8500 seems quicker but there's
    still a lag problem at times. Should I also do Disk-Clean-up and use
    the defaults?

    Most importantly, I still need your instructions on how to create
    Rescue CD's and how to create Rescue CD from an ISO and how
    to burn CD's on image burn. I really need these.

    I think you already answered how to burn a CD from an ISO file
    by right click it. but I don't seem to have instructions on how to
    create a Rescue CD.

    Hopefully, the RAM will arrive today and will let you know how it
    goes after I install it and run the memtest CD.

    Many Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Nov 10 23:42:12 2023
    p.s. where do I get the ISO file to create a Rescue CD?
    and then the procedure to create one?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Nov 10 23:37:35 2023
    I just tracked the RAM order and it
    says it will be delivered between
    Nov 20-30. Yet I placed the order
    before the PCI card and I already
    have it.

    We just have to wait for it,.....

    In passing, what were you doing in
    the driveway? repaving, border?

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Nov 11 04:12:04 2023
    On 11/11/2023 2:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    p.s. where do I get the ISO file to create a Rescue CD?
    and then the procedure to create one?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    It's in the "Other tasks" menu.

    If you don't have a blank USB key inserted in the machine
    when you do it, then only the ISO is offered as an option.

    https://i.postimg.cc/MKb9T6Yy/create-rescue-media.gif

    You can see some useful options such as

    "Check for devices missing drivers on boot"

    That would be good for when the new USB3 card is installed.
    Macrium will then be watching for a driver. In the regular OS,
    you will be reading the instructions for the new card, and using
    the driver CD in the box.

    The Windows PE 10 choice, should have a USB3 card driver for
    the Macrium environment, for your rescue media.

    Since your USB key can be used multiple times, you can
    put a new version on one of those. You have I think, at
    least one key with Macrium on it already. And you could
    put your practice versions on the USB key.

    If you want to use the USB key, and the files already on it
    have been dumped somewhere, you can plug the USb key in
    before using the "Other Tasks" menu and "Create Rescue Media"
    and the USB key should be a choice in "Select Device".

    But this is all in aid, of getting the USB3 card on the 780
    working in the Macrium environment. When it all seems to work,
    then you could make an ISO and burn a CD. I don't want to
    waste your media on experiments.

    Getting the USB3 card to work in the regular OS, is one thing.

    Getting the USb3 card to work in Macrium, is relatively easy
    (by making new media), but by testing with a USB key first,
    you can ensure you are satisfied it is working, before making
    a CD. Then the USB key, you can do whatever you want with it
    after the experiment stage is over.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Nov 11 04:01:16 2023
    On 11/11/2023 12:20 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I thought I lost you ! whew!

    I haven't got the RAM yet but I have the PCI 3.0 card
    and will install both when I get the RAM. I thought it
    would be here by now.

    So the white slots are for the RAM? OK, got it.
    Yes, I noticed the slot in the RAM when I bought it
    and on the white slots. so it should be easy What are
    the two large black slots at the top for? and just out of
    curiosity what are the blue and red things on the right
    side?

    Inside 780:

    https://postimg.cc/XXVDW6sz

    I'll un-plug the 780 and remove all the connections
    before I open it. I do have a strap, again thanks to you.
    I'll run a memtest CD after I power it back up.

    I think I'll skip the SD read only disk problem,.... I have enough
    on my plate. I'll just buy another SD disk and I have others that
    work fine.

    It's true the 780 doesn't have a card reader on the front
    but there are two empty face plates, one is normal size but
    the other one is smaller. However, I like the card reader you picked
    with the USB connection. So I'll get the Startech.

    I deleted all the files off the Patriot #3 USB stick so it's all clean

    I de-fragged both computers and the8500 seems quicker but there's
    still a lag problem at times. Should I also do Disk-Clean-up and use
    the defaults?

    Most importantly, I still need your instructions on how to create
    Rescue CD's and how to create Rescue CD from an ISO and how
    to burn CD's on image burn. I really need these.

    I think you already answered how to burn a CD from an ISO file
    by right click it. but I don't seem to have instructions on how to
    create a Rescue CD.

    Hopefully, the RAM will arrive today and will let you know how it
    goes after I install it and run the memtest CD.

    Many Thanks,
    Robert

    The DIMM slots, the lock latches are colored like that, to
    allow the user to install stuff in "dual channel" mode. Putting
    a matched pair in the two white is "dual channel". Putting
    a matched pair in the two black slots is "dual channel". That
    is where the notion came from , when memory changed from
    single channel to dual channel.

    In single channel days, there would be three memory slots and
    the slots all had latches of the same color. Dual channel
    is "twice as fast".

    *******

    The blue and red things on the right side, could be the
    DB9 serial port and the red thing is a DB25 parallel port,
    at a guess. They don't put parallel ports on PCs any more,
    that I know of. Serial ports exist, but they put them in
    computers as pin headers on the surface of the motherboard,
    expecting the user to go shopping for an adapter to use it.

    Parallel ports were used for printers at one time. That's
    why there could be a printer icon next to it. But Parallel Ports
    have four modes, so there were other hardware things you could
    do with it. There were eight TTL level signals, and they could
    be changed in software at around 500KHz or so. Pretty slow compared
    to other hardware signals in the PC. There have been storage
    devices that used to run off that 25 pin connector (slow).

    *******

    As for the lag problem, it would depend what activity is lagging,
    as to whether certain things would help. Defragmenting the disk
    might help with general activity such a program loading times.

    On a browser, sometimes the amount of temporary files the thing
    has stored, slow down the browser. And also, the files that the
    web sites abuse, those can grow with time. The cookie.sqlite file as an example, can get pretty full, but on the other hand, it is not
    accessed that often. I think they may try to do stuff to
    a file called "webappsstore.sqlite". That seems to grow, and
    my browser gets slow when that is over 10 megabytes.

    The "cache2" folder for the browser, has an "entries" folder and
    that can have a lot of stuff in it. The browser, in "about:config"
    has a control that defines the maximum size of the folder, and
    that should not be set too high, as it allows too many files
    to be stored in "entries". That would not normally be a problem,
    unless the user had been fiddling with the value and made it way
    too large.

    *******

    We had a bit of fun with this, on this date.

    Sat, 17 Aug 2019 14:19:45 -0400

    https://i.postimg.cc/yN96d68h/rescue-media.gif

    This is an example of making an ISO file, and then you can use
    Imgburn later with it. You should pick a name for the file,
    that has the release and the intended computer perhaps, because the
    ISO files are relatively indistinguishable later.

    https://i.postimg.cc/MKb9T6Yy/create-rescue-media.gif

    If you insert a USB key, you can place Macrium on the USB key...
    That would save on making a rescue CD, but then you have to
    convince the Optiplex to boot from it. The USB key can go in
    a USB2 slot (one of the six slots on the back of the machine
    or one on the front perhaps). The new USB3 card, is not for booting.

    https://i.postimg.cc/vBgStzJV/macrium-sees-USB-key.gif

    By using WinPE 10, there will be a driver to make the new USB3 card work.
    One of your older CDs, may not have the USB3 driver. You will know,
    if Macrium warns you about "some driver is missing". Or, if plugging
    a USB3 enclosure into the USB3 card, is not working. For the regular OS,
    the USB3 card will only work, if you use the CD that comes in the USB3
    card box.

    Could you make the Macrium media *after* the USB3 card is in the 780 ?
    That way, while Macrium is making the media, it may complain if it
    knows the driver for the USB3 is not present. I'm just trying to
    avoid too many surprises, at the current time.

    If you make Macrium media, on one of your freed up Patriot sticks,
    that could tide you over until your hardware situation is stable.
    And then, if you want to make a CD, the CD is more likely to be
    ready for the new stable situation. Putting Macrium on a USB key,
    is good when "experimenting" with your builds, and getting everything
    done right. Once you are confident the USB key version is "good",
    you can then go back to Macrium and use the ISO choice, to make an ISO.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Nov 11 06:19:28 2023
    I'm confused as far as step 1,2,3 I open create Rescue media and then?
    Do I select Advanced options then PE10, then OK, then build?

    I'm not fully understanding putting Macrium on the Patriot USB stick?
    How do I do it? Do you mean put the ISO file on the stick? It sounds if
    I do this it will make all my other Rescue CD's useless. This is just for
    the 780 right to verify that the 3.0 is working ?

    I have a blank USB key I can use.

    btw I had that Win 11 pop-up again. I forget while I was doing. I
    just closed it again.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Nov 11 11:32:41 2023
    OK, I followed the steps up to selecting PE10
    but if I understand you correctly you want me
    to do this after I install the PCI 3.0 card, correct?

    Correct me if I'm wrong but is PE10 a ISO that
    you want me to use on a 2.0 port to see if it boots
    the 780 to check and verify the 3.0 port is working?

    My question is will this make the previous Rescue
    CD's obsolete because of the new drivers added by
    doing this?

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Nov 11 17:27:22 2023
    I was following you about putting Macrium (WinPE 10)
    on the Patriot Drive but you lost me on how were going to
    convince the 780 to boot from it?

    Also should I do the same to the 8500 and be using
    WinPE10? If so, then it would make all my current Rescue
    CD's obsolete. That's what you meant about creating new
    media, new Rescue CD's from the ISO.

    Yes, I will try and create a Macrium media after the USB3
    card is installed in the 780 and we can go from there. I'll keep
    you posted and let you know how everything goes of course.

    I think I do have a 2022 version of Macrium on one of the
    Patriot keys. That's why I wanted you to look at them but
    that isn't WinPE10. It seems to me that I'm going to have to
    make a whole new batch of Rescue CD's for both computers
    so they are both WinPE10.


    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Nov 12 11:51:49 2023
    Here's a summary of upcoming procedures when the RAM arrives;

    1. install RAM and PCI card with mini disk
    2. run memtest CD
    3. create macrium media (WinPE 10) - use 2.0 port to boot from
    how will 780 see it?
    4. create Rescue CD's from ISO - procedure?

    This has nothing to do with the computers per se but was weird,
    I have a Sony DSC-TX20 camera but when I tried to use it,
    it says the SD card is locked but it's not locked. I tried another
    SD card and it said the same thing but when I tried it in another
    camera it was ok? I don't get it? It was fine yesterday.

    What's weird is that when I put the read only SD card in it, it
    worked fine although I still can't can't/paste to delete the folder/files
    but then when I put the non- working SD card back in the camera it
    worked as usual as if nothing happened! Talk about off the wall.

    I picked up (2) more 32 GB Lexar SD cards as extra's at Staples today
    they didn't have Sandisk's.

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Nov 12 18:07:32 2023
    On 11/11/2023 2:32 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    OK, I followed the steps up to selecting PE10
    but if I understand you correctly you want me
    to do this after I install the PCI 3.0 card, correct?

    Correct me if I'm wrong but is PE10 a ISO that
    you want me to use on a 2.0 port to see if it boots
    the 780 to check and verify the 3.0 port is working?

    My question is will this make the previous Rescue
    CD's obsolete because of the new drivers added by
    doing this?

    Robert


    I would not say your previous rescue CDs are "obsolete".

    What you're doing, is you are adding a USB3 card to the
    Optiplex. You will install a driver from the CD that
    came in the box with the USB3 card.

    Now, when you are running the Macrium CD and doing a
    bare metal restore, the USB3 card is not going to work
    with the old Rescue CD. You could *still* plug the external
    hard drive enclosure into a USB2 port, and do a backup
    or a restore at reduced speed.

    Making new media, is so you can make a 780 backup or a restore,
    at 150MB/sec for a typical drive. The Patriot key plugged
    in, before you start the rescue media step, it's going to
    acquire a USB3 driver from PE10. You don't absolutely need to have the
    USB3 card in the computer, if you're itching to go. But, if
    you have the USB3 card in the PC, as soon as the build onto
    the Patriot key is finished, you can immediately boot the
    Patriot key, and see in the Macrium File Manager, that the
    drive letter for that drive-on-USB3-port, has appeared.
    What you should notice, is if making a backup of the 780,
    using your new WinPE 10 version of software, things run
    a lot faster. At least 4x faster. It's possible the internal
    drive you're backing up, is the slowest part in the transfer then.

    USB2 (boot) port <=== Patriot key

    USB3 port <=== External USB3 hard drive enclosure (or a USB2 enclosure even)

    When you're running Macrium on the computer and making this media,
    the Macrium software has a version number like 7.3.1234 kind of thing.
    It's that version, that helps determine whether the old versions
    of CDs will work with that backup or not. So if the existing Rescue CDs
    you made were 7.3.1234 and the Patriot was also made by version
    7.3.1234, then the two medias are "equally compatible". The difference
    between them, is the Patriot stick allows you to use your new USB3
    card on the 780. The WinPE 10 would also work on the 8500, so that
    a USB3 port (blue tab) would work while booting the Patriot key.

    The WinPE 10 driver should work with any USB3 chip. (There aren't too many
    USB3 chips which are new enough to defeat WinPE 10. Some day,
    we might need an even newer WinPE, but I don't know if one has been
    issued or not. The drivers normally work, because new USB3 chips
    would have the same register definitions as those that came before.)

    Your two machines are new enough, to be Win10 compatible. A Core2
    processor is Win10 compatible. But when it comes to Win11, I think
    like most of the computers in the room here, the CPU isn't new enough
    for Windows 11. At least, the installer Microsoft uses, will tell you
    a story like that. Why they pester people who can't run the software,
    I'll never know.

    You can use Rufus, to build an installer stick, that will install W11
    on both your computers. The problem with the method is, any time a
    major upgrade comes in, the upgrade is guaranteed to fail. This potentially means, that the Rufus method is extra work and research for people to do.
    I think I tested a Rufus, but it rolled back when I tried to put w11 22h2 over it.

    As far as I can remember, W11 21H2 was the first, W11 22H2 was the second,
    and W11 23H2 has just come out. I haven't installed 23H2 by the looks of it. I'm 22621 and the new one is 22631. Articles like this in Wikipedia,
    have the digit strings so I can check.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_11_version_history

    21H2 22000
    22H2 22621 <=== One machine runs this
    23H2 22631 <=== Haven't installed this yet (release is 12 days old or so)
    I have to deal with this before November 14 (Patch Tuesday).
    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Nov 12 17:31:02 2023
    On 11/11/2023 9:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I'm confused as far as step 1,2,3 I open create Rescue media and then?
    Do I select Advanced options then PE10, then OK, then build?

    That sounds like the basic idea.

    "Building" means to assemble all the moving parts from the
    WADK, to make a tiny OS that boots.


    I'm not fully understanding putting Macrium on the Patriot USB stick?
    How do I do it? Do you mean put the ISO file on the stick? It sounds if
    I do this it will make all my other Rescue CD's useless. This is just for
    the 780 right to verify that the 3.0 is working ?

    I have a blank USB key I can use.

    You insert the USB key, before selecting "Create Rescue media".
    The software interface for "selecting a device to use", will
    then include the USB stick. You click the USB stick to highlight
    it, as the device that will be accepting the build. Then, go to Advanced
    and select your WinPE flavor. And so on.


    btw I had that Win 11 pop-up again. I forget while I was doing. I
    just closed it again.

    Robert

    Normally, I would not expect a Win11 popup, unless I was running Win10.

    Your machines aren't likely a good match for Win11, because the CPU
    can only be 3-5 years old or so. My Test Machine, it's not Win11 ready.

    Your Optiplex has a TPM, but it probably is not TPM 2.0 . That can be
    used for Secure Boot. The Optiplex doesn't really have a UEFI BIOS,
    as near as I can tell.

    The XPS 8500 is closer.

    If they did attempt to install Windows 11, chances are it would
    roll back because of a compatibility issue. Even video cards,
    they might not do a proper check when the installation of Win11
    starts, but it could roll back on video card. The Optiplex 780 for
    example, the built-in graphics aren't good enough for W10 22H2
    (which is the current and last release of W10). If you try to upgrade
    an Optiplex 780 from 21H2 to 22H2 (and you didn't add a video card),
    it would roll back. Your picture shows a video card in the video
    slot, so chances are your Optiplex could run W10 22H2. But W11 on
    the Optiplex 780, isn't even close. The checker should tell you,
    without wasting your time on an install attempt, that the CPU is too
    old (does not have MEBX).

    They tried to lard up W11 with security features, and when I'm running
    W11, most all of that is switched off. They will undoubtedly try that
    with W12 as well, make some security feature mandatory, that I don't have.
    I have only one machine that can run W11. W11 has some sort of sandbox I've never used, as an example.

    *******

    This guy makes utilities for setting some registry entries that
    control upgrading. If you were running W10 or W11, the program
    can stop the version from changing. Where it says 21H2, you could
    set that to 22H2, and then no upgrade could go past 22H2.

    Entering W10 in the box, prevents W11 from coming in. But that
    isn't for a machine running Win7, because Win7 doesn't understand
    those labels. The "Never 10" utility, is for an earlier point in
    time, where they were pushing Windows 10. Right now, you cannot
    use W7 or W8.1 to advance to W10 any more, as the "free upgrade"
    has stopped. If you did try the free upgrade previously, then
    erased Win10 (Macrium restore to W7), you would still have the license key
    for Win10, and you could then install Win10 today. It's the handing
    out of license keys that has stopped -- you can still re-install W10.

    I might have mentioned that being a reason for installing Win10,
    then rolling back with Macrium, as that way you could "claim"
    your license, before the free offer is finished.

    https://www.grc.com/incontrol.htm

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Nov 12 18:24:28 2023
    On 11/11/2023 8:27 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I was following you about putting Macrium (WinPE 10)
    on the Patriot Drive but you lost me on how were going to
    convince the 780 to boot from it?

    You press F12 while the Dell animation is on the 780 screen.
    As that progress bar advances, you press F12.


    Also should I do the same to the 8500 and be using
    WinPE10? If so, then it would make all my current Rescue
    CD's obsolete. That's what you meant about creating new
    media, new Rescue CD's from the ISO.

    You can try the 780 USB key on the 8500 if you want.


    Yes, I will try and create a Macrium media after the USB3
    card is installed in the 780 and we can go from there. I'll keep
    you posted and let you know how everything goes of course.

    I think I do have a 2022 version of Macrium on one of the
    Patriot keys. That's why I wanted you to look at them but
    that isn't WinPE10. It seems to me that I'm going to have to
    make a whole new batch of Rescue CD's for both computers
    so they are both WinPE10.


    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    You could test your existing Patriot with the USB3 enclosure,
    but it might end up running at USB2 speed, and that wouldn't
    be so nice. It's pretty hard to determine what speed the interface
    is running at, as the Macrium interface does not always have a
    speed indicator while it runs. Some operation are devoid of that
    speed thing.

    If you want to make CDs, you can. Initially, I just want to make
    sure at least one build works properly on the USB stick, so you know
    it is going to work, and you won't be wasting a CD for nothing.
    You could make a CD for the 780, a CD for the 8500 on the 8500
    version, and then the Patriot key would be free for some other purpose.
    It's up to you as to which method has the best economics. I've wasted
    a few CD-R here for nothing, making software versions that went out of
    date. I use more -RW ones as they can be erased. I also temporarily
    put installers on USB sticks. At least, until the USB stick wears out.

    But first of all, I want to test that the Patriot key makes the USB3 card deliver.
    And that your backup finished 4x faster. You'll be a Build expert at that point, and can go off and make the CDs you want. *Always* label the
    CD with the Windows installed version of Macrium and its release number.
    The 7.3.1234 kind of thing. You might even be running a Version 8
    for all I know.

    My optical media for Macrium, always has the release number on it. I don't restore a Macrium 7 backup with a Macrium 5 CD. At least, I try not to.
    For "full" backups, there is a good chance that will even work! but
    don't quote me on that. I try to match the releases if I can.

    My MRIMG names look like

    W11HOME-quick-image-736391-00-00.mrimg.7z

    That's a 7.3.6391 backup, which has been compressed so it takes less space. Compressing takes a long time, and makes the fan spin faster.

    I label ones that are known to be temporary, like this

    W11HOME-quick-image-736391-ERASEME-00-00.mrimg.7z

    I can do a search on "ERASEME" and all the ones I can toss out,
    show up in the window. That's what tagged labeling is for.
    On ambiguous ones, the machine identifier needs to be included.
    One machine being Intel, one machine being AMD. W11 only runs on the
    AMD machine, so I don't need a tag for that. W10 runs everywhere here,
    so it needs a more careful label.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Nov 12 18:37:38 2023
    On 11/12/2023 2:51 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Here's a summary of upcoming procedures when the RAM arrives;

    1. install RAM and PCI card with mini disk
    2. run memtest CD
    3. create macrium media (WinPE 10) - use 2.0 port to boot from
    how will 780 see it?
    4. create Rescue CD's from ISO - procedure?

    This has nothing to do with the computers per se but was weird,
    I have a Sony DSC-TX20 camera but when I tried to use it,
    it says the SD card is locked but it's not locked. I tried another
    SD card and it said the same thing but when I tried it in another
    camera it was ok? I don't get it? It was fine yesterday.

    What's weird is that when I put the read only SD card in it, it
    worked fine although I still can't can't/paste to delete the folder/files
    but then when I put the non- working SD card back in the camera it
    worked as usual as if nothing happened! Talk about off the wall.

    I picked up (2) more 32 GB Lexar SD cards as extra's at Staples today
    they didn't have Sandisk's.

    Robert



    On the 780, your USB2 ports are the boot ports. Press F12,
    let it see one boot stick plugged into USB2, and it'll work.

    The new USB3 card is only for your USB3 enclosure and for doing backup/restore.

    The problem is, the BIOS won't boot from the USB3 card.
    However, once any OS is running, they are allowed to use
    the USB3 card as a "data card". It's just booting that does not
    work. The port on the USB3 card is still useful and general
    purpose. But, booting is out. If the card had a "config EEPROM" on it,
    then it could boot. And there are a bunch of add-in card types,
    that they never wrote code for them.

    Someone made a dual NVMe card, and we never thought those would ever
    boot. They made a config EEPROM for it, and it boots. And... they
    charge $500.00 per card :-/ You see, that's what happens when these
    things are a technical challenge. If no one else can make one, the card
    is extremely expensive, just to get boot.

    If you have BIOS-building software, you can include a module to
    boot from a USB3 card. I haven't seen anyone mention BIOS-hacking
    around here, for a number of years. My Nforce2 motherboard, was
    the last one where people were hacking them on USENET. They needed to
    patch the SIL3112 SATA controller, and the manufacturer didn't patch it,
    so the users had to.

    My Asrock 4coreduo motherboard, a guy in Germany hacked a BIOS for us,
    turning on EIST (Intel SpeedStep). That allows the processor to run at 2GHz when idle, and 3GHz when busy. The Intel lawyers made Asrock turn that off,
    the hacker helped us turn it back on again :-) There is nothing complicated about the hack, it's just a flag that "makes the setting appear on the screen". The code was always in there, it was just "invisible" and the hack makes
    it "visible" again so you can use it.

    Just a lot of silly crap, so you can use a computer.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Nov 12 23:51:23 2023
    I believe we did add a video card because
    you selected the card with the fan on it and
    I remember installing it.

    We don't have to worry about Win 11 pop-up
    I have (2) spare bootable Win 10 hd's that we
    made when they still offered the free upgrade
    and you advised I do it so I did for both computers.

    You lost me, you said when I use the macrium cd
    and do a bare metal restore. I thought by using macrium
    were not metal to metal?

    I still do not understand how I am going to boot from
    the USB once the build for PE10 is finished?

    If I understand you correctly I plug the external
    hd in the 3.0 port for backups and the USB with
    the PE10 in the 2.0 port and then ?

    So I should make new Rescue CD's (PE10) for both
    computers so they are both compatible. It seems so.


    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Nov 13 00:18:57 2023
    Oh, so I press F12 to get the USB with PE10 to boot

    I wasn't thinking of using the 780 USB on the 8500.
    Rather I was thinking of creating one for the 8500
    because they wouldn't be compatible would they?
    Just as the Rescue CD's aren't compatible.

    I don't have the PCI card installed yet so I can't
    test it with my older 2022 ISO on the Patriot. I want
    to install the RAM first because otherwise the PCI card
    will be in the way and I also don't want to open up the
    780 twice. So we just have to wait for the RAM. I
    didn't think it would take this long.

    I think I will make some new Rescue CD's after all
    this is done and yes I label all my CD's like the following

    8500 Rescue CD

    12-5-2022

    V7.2, 64bit

    but I think I'll add PE10 to it. I see that I used to include
    that in the beginning with PE 3.1 and I have done
    V8, PE 3.1, 64 bit . I think I showed you my mrimgs log I
    keep.

    https://postimg.cc/jLw3FrRJ

    I'll re-read your instructions and hopefully everything will
    go as planned.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Nov 13 09:08:58 2023
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Nov 13 09:10:50 2023
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Nov 13 14:26:08 2023
    After I ran SuperAntiSyware scan the Explorer 11 popped up
    up again.

    https://postimg.cc/CRCn3jMX

    https://postimg.cc/CdH1LFpn

    I tried posting this on the 780 but it just hung there after I clicked
    I'm not a robot but it didn't have a OK box and I tried several times
    with the same result. So I ended up having to take pics and post this
    on the 8500 instead.

    Isn't there some way of stopping this? As I said, I have (2) bootable
    hd's with Win 10 so I don't need or want this. I prefer Win 7 Pro.

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Nov 14 01:11:33 2023
    On 11/13/2023 5:26 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    After I ran SuperAntiSyware scan the Explorer 11 popped up
    up again.

    https://postimg.cc/CRCn3jMX

    https://postimg.cc/CdH1LFpn

    I tried posting this on the 780 but it just hung there after I clicked
    I'm not a robot but it didn't have a OK box and I tried several times
    with the same result. So I ended up having to take pics and post this
    on the 8500 instead.

    Isn't there some way of stopping this? As I said, I have (2) bootable
    hd's with Win 10 so I don't need or want this. I prefer Win 7 Pro.

    Robert


    OK, that's Internet Explorer 11 showing up.

    When IE11 is installed and has not been used yet, it
    "asks what settings to use". You can select the defaults if
    you want, as a means to stop the dialog from showing up.

    Note that, when Internet Explorer starts, the home page is
    set to a Microsoft web site. At the current time, they have
    loaded something on that web site, that "breaks" Internet Explorer
    (even IE11) and the browser then no longer works.

    As a result, I do not recommend starting Internet Explorer. You can
    tick the box to select the default choices. But if IE11 browser
    actually opens, there will be trouble.

    If you think Internet Explorer is about to start, you can unplug
    the network cable, until you define a new value for the IE11 home page.
    That way, Microsoft cannot break it.

    Breaking the browser, is to keep people from using it. But, since
    you regularly use Firefox, there is little chance IE11 will start.
    Except if some Microsoft tool insists on opening it.

    *******

    You are using a web browser to access groups.google.com .

    At the current time, there is a spam flood. And the Robot dialog is
    showing up, because Google thinks that is a barrier to the flooding
    going on.

    If the browser on a machine freezes, after clicking the "I'm not a robot"
    tick box, then it could be that the browser is getting too old. Note
    that they have stopped making new versions of Firefox for Windows 7,
    so at some point, yours will stop updating to the next release.
    Then, if a "feature" is missing from the browser, perhaps some
    web page code won't work right. And that could account for your
    symptoms.

    They aren't making new browser versions for either Firefox or for Chrome,
    on Windows 7. The companies are trying to treat Windows 7 like it was WinXP.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Nov 14 00:59:52 2023
    On 11/13/2023 2:51 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I believe we did add a video card because
    you selected the card with the fan on it and
    I remember installing it.

    We don't have to worry about Win 11 pop-up
    I have (2) spare bootable Win 10 hd's that we
    made when they still offered the free upgrade
    and you advised I do it so I did for both computers.

    You lost me, you said when I use the macrium cd
    and do a bare metal restore. I thought by using macrium
    were not metal to metal?

    I still do not understand how I am going to boot from
    the USB once the build for PE10 is finished?

    If I understand you correctly I plug the external
    hd in the 3.0 port for backups and the USB with
    the PE10 in the 2.0 port and then ?

    So I should make new Rescue CD's (PE10) for both
    computers so they are both compatible. It seems so.


    Robert


    Whether you make a Macrium CD or a Macrium USB stick,
    they are at a minimum, for emergency restorations where
    the normal C: hard drive may have malfunctioned.

    When you buy a replacement drive for a failed drive,
    the new drive has nothing on it.

    To put the software back, you have to boot something.
    And that's the Macrium CD. It can do a "bare metal"
    (new hard drive) restore, putting the content back
    that you captured in an ordinary backup operation.

    At a minimum then, the Macrium CD has to support restore.

    But it also happens to do backup, so if you want to do
    a backup from the CD/USBStick, you can. You can back up
    the internal drive, to the external drive, using the CD.

    *******

    The Optiplex 780 has two BIOS entry keys at startup.

    The F2 key enters the BIOS. One of the BIOS settings,
    is to set the boot order. You can put USB stick ahead
    of CD drive ahead of hard drive. Then, if either USB
    stick is present, or there is a CD in the optical drive
    tray, the Optiplex 780 will select those, instead of the
    hard drive.

    Sometimes, a situation may arise, where the normal boot
    order does not seem to be working. The F12 key pressed
    during the Dell animation when the BIOS starts, causes
    the "popup boot" to appear. In there, you can cursor down
    and select the USB device. You can only plug one USB device
    in at a time.

    Since the external disk enclosure is connected
    to the new USB3 card, the BIOS "cannot see it" and the BIOS
    cannot be confused by whatever is on the USB3 port. Whatever
    is plugged into the USB2 ports, can be considered. I don't
    think the Optiplex likes having two USB sticks for example,
    as there is no "enumeration" of both of them, and which
    stick will boot, you don't know. That is why you only can
    select "some" USB device, because the BIOS does not identify
    the USB stick model number.

    When the build of the Macrium USB key is complete (it's plugged
    into a USB2 port), you can restart the machine, then press F12
    when the Dell animation appears, and select the USB stick
    from that menu. If you get the "Press any key..." prompt,
    then you press a key on the keyboard, to accept the USB
    as the boot device.

    *******

    I don't know about the XPS 8500, whether it enumerates all USB
    items and allowed you to select a specific one or not.

    But on the Optiplex 780, you will do this:

    USB2 port (six ports on the back for example) <=== Patriot stick (or your CD in CD tray)

    USB3 card gets USB3 external hard drive <=== BIOS cannot see this, at boot time

    *******

    You can make media as you see fit. For example, here, I have one USB key
    with Macrium 7 on it, and that boots either of my machines.

    If you want to make a CD for each machine, you can. But I don't want
    to force you to make media, you don't want to make.

    Your USB key can be temporary or permanent. It will boot faster.
    But, it ties up the stick. If you make a CD afterwards, then
    you don't have to keep the USB key in Macrium mode, and can use
    the USB key for other purposes.

    I don't think I've run into a problem yet, where the media I made
    wasn't good enough for the job. I always seemed to manage to gain
    access to the backup storage. Sometimes, for example, I use a file share
    on the other machine, as a place to store the backup .mrimg I am making.
    That's limited to 112MB/sec of the Ethernet interface. Usually the
    storage device is faster than that, so the Ethernet interface is
    the bottleneck if I do a backup to a file share.

    A WinPE 10 Macrium OS, might not have booted on the RAMBUS machine.
    That is because the processor is before Core2 generation. But your
    Optiplex 780 and the XPS 8500, are modern enough that the Macrium Key
    you're making, might well work equally on the two machines.

    To back up a Windows 10 OS drive, you'd need a version of Macrium
    greater than 6.3.1865. A version 7 or a version 8 install would work.
    This helps handle the non-standard changes to NTFS file system. But
    since you're not regularly running Windows 10 at the moment, you
    don't have to worry too much about that. I use my Macrium 7.3 or so USB
    stick, and that's good enough for W10 OS and W11 OS backups. I think I
    have Macrium 8 installed on one of my OSes here, but I cannot remember
    which one.

    If you do make the CD for each machine, you can make it on the machine
    it is associated with. And store the CD in a jewel box with labeling
    indicating machine it is intended for, and what version of Macrium
    was used.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 14 04:40:49 2023
    I have bootable replacement hd's with Win 7
    and with Win 10 for both computers that you
    helped me to set up. remember?

    All I do now is use the Rescue CD for mrimg
    backups.

    Ok,, so press F2 to change the boot order and
    F12 if I need to manually select it. I actually have
    to do this on the 8500 because for some reason
    it doesn't see the CD. I believe we tried to change
    the boot order but it won't let us.

    The 780 cannot see the 3.0 port because it's data only,
    correct and the 2.0 port is for booting (USB)

    I put the Macrium USB stick into the 780 and restarted
    it and pressed F12 (it took forever!) but it didn't read it.

    Here's pic's of the Patriot before, completed and after
    I tried it. There's nothing on it. How can that be?

    https://postimg.cc/wRtqZLqs - before

    https://postimg.cc/5YXW2JZh - PE10 completed

    https://postimg.cc/B8wRyyXM - after, nothing on Patriot

    During the process it gave me the option of running tests
    so I did. I'll send you pics when it's done.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 14 05:44:33 2023
    I selected the USB device first but it didn't work so then I
    tried the Onboard or USB CD -Rom Drive and it gave me
    the same result.

    https://postimg.cc/2LZJh4Nz

    https://postimg.cc/Cdwpf2zt

    https://postimg.cc/SXwNhfd4

    https://postimg.cc/qggdp5gd

    Test pics, it just said to restart the computer when it finished.

    https://postimg.cc/G8dGkD8k

    https://postimg.cc/jwP3jyVP

    https://postimg.cc/w7jKwb8r

    Should I try building the PE10 again? The Patriot is empty.
    I don't understand it. I have pics of every step and it completed.

    I think I prefer the CD's and have labeled them and they are all
    in jewel cases exactly as you suggest but I think when were all
    done I'll make some new ones.

    So I don't need to do anything to the 8500? Or should I also
    make it PE10? I don;t want to move away from my present setup
    until I'm sure about things. So far, the Patriot isn't working.

    Also why didn't the 780 let me post yesterday? and the Capcha
    didn't have the OK box?

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 14 14:44:11 2023
    I do not even want to try and click anything on IE11. I
    don't want to go down that road and you know my history
    better than anyone. Knowing my luck it would start IE11
    and screw everything up.

    It's easier to just close it but what I am to do then? So far
    FF is OK but your saying at some point it may not be?

    In passing I thought I would let you know I presently use
    the USB 2.0 port on the 780 for my external hd but I guess
    you assumed that.

    It's when I add the 3.0 port that it changes,

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 14 15:43:26 2023
    I just tried to send a test message with the 780
    and it still will not post it. after checking I'm not
    a robot it just hung there and the OK box did not
    appear.

    So what am I to do if I need to post from the 780?

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 14 15:20:42 2023
    I got the SD card adapter with USB connection today and
    took some test pics and then tried it. It loaded the drivers
    and works great.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 14 15:57:46 2023
    I keep forgetting things to tell you,. but when working in Word I've
    noticed recently that I also get a GDI window with the Word icon
    as if two windows are open. Why is that happening? Same thing
    as IE11?

    This isn't where it normal is of course.

    https://postimg.cc/hzP3XKwD


    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 14 18:13:21 2023
    I just tried to do a test by responding to you since it
    won't let me post myself and that also failed. Is it
    because I haven't used the 780 much? Is there some
    way of getting around this?

    I wish we had the servers that closed down so we could
    avoid this.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Nov 15 07:47:56 2023
    My top priority now is to get the 780 to be able to post to Google
    Groups. If the 8500 had a problem I would be screwed and unable
    to contact you.

    Here's a couple of info pics from the test it did I thought you might
    want to see.

    https://postimg.cc/zL9KwzdS

    https://postimg.cc/23NXrrzZ

    I'll install the RAM but I want to make sure the PE10 is working
    before I install the PCI card which will make all my other Rescue CD's
    and mrimgs obsolete because they won't have the card and drivers.

    Since the Patriot didn't work and isn't normally how I use macrium
    I made a Rescue CD with WinPE10 and it worked but it took awhile
    to load. At first the screen was all black but then macrium finally
    appeared. I labeled it and has the Win PE 10 on it and has a jewel
    case (Verbatim CD-RW).

    https://postimg.cc/5673YVMp

    https://postimg.cc/CZDHQnn6

    https://postimg.cc/K4Q7w24F

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Nov 15 17:48:26 2023
    After I made the PE10 Rescue CD I tried
    the Patriot again but it says missing operating
    system.

    https://postimg.cc/w3NkZg6t

    https://postimg.cc/zL3Cj1tG

    https://postimg.cc/WdYrtHNL

    https://postimg.cc/4KhKy42V

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Nov 15 17:46:55 2023
    After I made the PE120 Rescue CD I tried
    the Patriot again but it says missing operating
    system.

    https://postimg.cc/w3NkZg6t

    https://postimg.cc/zL3Cj1tG

    https://postimg.cc/WdYrtHNL

    https://postimg.cc/4KhKy42V

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Nov 16 19:07:00 2023
    On 11/14/2023 7:40 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I have bootable replacement hd's with Win 7
    and with Win 10 for both computers that you
    helped me to set up. remember?

    All I do now is use the Rescue CD for mrimg
    backups.

    Ok,, so press F2 to change the boot order and
    F12 if I need to manually select it. I actually have
    to do this on the 8500 because for some reason
    it doesn't see the CD. I believe we tried to change
    the boot order but it won't let us.

    The 780 cannot see the 3.0 port because it's data only,
    correct and the 2.0 port is for booting (USB)

    I put the Macrium USB stick into the 780 and restarted
    it and pressed F12 (it took forever!) but it didn't read it.

    Here's pic's of the Patriot before, completed and after
    I tried it. There's nothing on it. How can that be?

    https://postimg.cc/wRtqZLqs - before

    https://postimg.cc/5YXW2JZh - PE10 completed

    https://postimg.cc/B8wRyyXM - after, nothing on Patriot

    During the process it gave me the option of running tests
    so I did. I'll send you pics when it's done.

    Robert


    The second picture tells the story.

    You can see the two words "Select Device" in the background of the second picture.
    Just below "Select Device", you can see what I would guess it eh icon of
    the Patriot. Click that item. Go through the usual Build steps.

    The text below will no longer say "ISO Media Options", because now
    we're making a USB stick. It will say something about USB stick options or so.

    That does not mean you're out of the woods, since USB flash sticks are notorious for software problems (it is the fault of the software, and
    the software has poor tolerance for the state it finds a USB stick in).
    Any time I use a USB stick for output in situations like this,
    I always expect the software to "throw a curve ball" at me and
    annoy me. These things never go smoothly the first time. It
    goes with the territory. What it's supposed to do, is reformat E:
    and make a fresh clean partition, before copying over the WinPE.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Nov 16 19:18:40 2023
    On 11/14/2023 5:44 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I do not even want to try and click anything on IE11. I
    don't want to go down that road and you know my history
    better than anyone. Knowing my luck it would start IE11
    and screw everything up.

    It's easier to just close it but what I am to do then? So far
    FF is OK but your saying at some point it may not be?

    In passing I thought I would let you know I presently use
    the USB 2.0 port on the 780 for my external hd but I guess
    you assumed that.

    It's when I add the 3.0 port that it changes,

    Robert


    You can unplug the network cable, and do anything you want to IE11
    under those conditions.

    I'm just warning you, that I started Win7 a couple months ago,
    and I didn't start IE11 for fun or anything. There was some reason
    I started, there was a quick response and then it was dead. I couldn't
    get anything useful out of it after that.

    They can't do that, if the network cable is disconnected, which makes
    it useless for surfing. But, at least with the network cable disconnected,
    you can set the defaults, you can edit the home page preference (to something other than MSN.com), or whatever else comes to mind.

    *******

    Yes, at the current time, you are using the USB2 port (30-35MB/sec)
    on the 780, until the USB3 card is installed and better things await.

    You can use F2, to make attempts at permanent boot ordering. Like
    putting the CD before the HDD for example, as a boot order. I might
    put something like.

    The F12 option (while the progress animation is playing), will list
    USB, CD, HDD and you can select one of those and boot from it. If
    two USB sticks were to be plugged in though (into two USB2 ports),
    there would be no way for the Dell interface to pick one. This is why
    you only put the one USB stick in a USb2 port, when planning a USB2 boot.
    The backup drive (with its OS or not onboard), will not cause a problem
    when plugged to the USB3 card, as the USB3 card is "data only" and does
    not enter into any boot choices. The BIOS simply doesn't know about that card.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Nov 16 20:09:53 2023
    On 11/14/2023 6:57 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I keep forgetting things to tell you,. but when working in Word I've
    noticed recently that I also get a GDI window with the Word icon
    as if two windows are open. Why is that happening? Same thing
    as IE11?

    This isn't where it normal is of course.

    https://postimg.cc/hzP3XKwD


    Robert


    I've no idea why it is there. The claim here, is the presence of that
    is "indeterminate", and it won't do the same thing every time.

    https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/why-gdi-window-visible.1983509/

    "sometimes, it's to refresh the records in the
    ListView control, sometimes, it's to print the report, or so on."

    I seem to remember a window like that, perhaps in Win98 ? A little
    drummer-boy animation ?

    Sorry, a swing and a miss on this one.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Nov 16 19:50:04 2023
    On 11/14/2023 6:43 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I just tried to send a test message with the 780
    and it still will not post it. after checking I'm not
    a robot it just hung there and the OK box did not
    appear.

    So what am I to do if I need to post from the 780?

    Robert


    If you enter

    about:

    in the URL box of Firefox, it will show the version number.

    *******

    We can upgrade Firefox, and then you can try again.

    *******

    https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/firefox-users-windows-7-8-and-81-moving-extended-support

    "Mozilla is providing critical security updates through the Firefox
    ESR channel up until the end of ESR version 115, September 2024."

    You could, for example, use something like this. The EXE should work.
    Where the digit "4" is, they will release new ones, which will auto-update,
    but the 115 field will not advance any further. When Sept 2024, updates
    will stop.

    http://releases.mozilla.org/pub/firefox/releases/115.4.0esr/win64/en-US/

    I assume you're using the 64-bit version of Firefox, and if
    you were, it would be in C:\Program Files on a 64-bit OS machine.

    A 64-bit OS has two Program File folders. That's one way to tell what flavor OS.

    C:\Program Files <=== a Firefox in here, would be 64-bit
    C:\Program File (x86)

    A 32-bit OS only has one folder like that

    C:\Program Files <=== a Firefox in here, would be 32-bit, as a 32-bit OS
    tends to have 32-bit stuff here. Firefox does not come
    in a 16-bit version :-)

    If, upon starting the new Firefox, you have no Bookmarks, don't panic.
    The browser has more than one Profile folder.

    In a Command Prompt window (un-elevated is fine), you could do:

    c:
    cd Program Files
    cd Mozilla Firefox # cast a weather eye at this level, for the word "Firefox"
    firefox.exe -p

    and that will start up the Firefox Profile Manager. It might show
    its empty profile selected, whereas you want to change the selection
    to whatever profile is used in the browser this moment.

    You can check in your existing copy of Firefox, what the profile is, that it is using.

    about:profiles # in the URL box

    and the Root Directory it lists, is likely where the Bookmarks material hides. But it's the string of characters, the ABCD1234.default folder name it shows, which you want to write down. Then, when you use the firefox.exe -p
    command later with the new Firefox installed, you can select that
    same string of characters from the list of profiles, and that will become
    your current working profile. And your bookmarks should then be present.

    The reason I'm predicting this is necessary, is you're likely on the
    Regular stream right now, and installing the ESR stream gives you
    "support until 2024", but at the same time, it's a different stream
    so it will likely mess up the profile selection. And as a result, I'm
    showing you above, how you select your old profile for usage.

    Write down the active profile Firefox is showing right now, for later
    when you can't remember what it was :-)

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Nov 16 20:41:14 2023
    On 11/15/2023 8:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    After I made the PE120 Rescue CD I tried
    the Patriot again but it says missing operating
    system.

    https://postimg.cc/w3NkZg6t

    https://postimg.cc/zL3Cj1tG

    https://postimg.cc/WdYrtHNL

    https://postimg.cc/4KhKy42V

    Robert


    Generally, that is a message in the MBR sector (sector 0).
    You can see "Missing Operating System", with a hex editor.

    It is searching for the "active" partition, and it is
    using legacy BIOS boot mode when doing that, at a guess.

    If you are looking at the Patriot while the regular OS
    is booted, the OS partition on the Patriot should be
    marked "Active". That's the boot flag, 0x80.

    This is not the best example, as I may have used devious means
    to make this. This was not a "clean sample for demo purposes".
    It's just a stick I use for backups. I can't remember whether
    I made it, the way you just made yours, or not.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/8cW23SGF/Macrium-Rescue-stick-setup.gif

    But at least it shows how an OS partition can be marked "active"
    with a 0x80 "boot flag". That stick should not get a "Missing Operating System",
    since at least one partition is marked with 0x80 like that.

    If it is directed to that partition, and that partition is empty,
    it would still be valid for it to whine like that. But a typical
    flaw, is for some software "forgetting" to make the 0x80 thing.

    You can fix that with the Microsoft "diskpart.exe" utility.

    A better question would be, what button press in Macrium
    would have "made a better stick". As you don't really want
    to be cleaning up after these things with diskpart.exe .
    That's not much fun.

    But never the less, there is an Active
    command in diskpart.exe to fix it. Traditionally, I have
    been using PTEDIT32.exe to fix that, as I like writing in
    the partition table by hand like that :-) When you edit with PTEDIT32.exe,
    the text turns red, so you know what fields you have edited,
    and what fields have yet to receive attention. Then, you "write"
    with the tool, to put the modified values back. That utility
    is "free" and is not protected by a license. For around ten years,
    you could download it from the Symantec site, but now, only one
    downloader site has it. It's an "ancient curiosity" with its own quirks
    (it's filled with CHS cylinder head sector voodoo :-) ). You run it
    as Administrator, as otherwise, it would not have the rights
    to be messing with the MBR like that.

    Anyway, use your Disk Management, and you'll likely see the word
    "Active" is missing. Take a picture of whatever you get.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Nov 17 10:56:58 2023
    I did select the Patriot icon in the background but it didn't work.

    As I said I don't even wan to go down the IE11 path, even is I
    disconnect the internet it's full of hazards and pitfalls and I don't
    have your expertise to deal with it. I like FF but if at some point
    it becomes a problem I have my Win 10 bootable HD's

    https://postimg.cc/mtRLYFrD

    I've said all along that I have spare Win 2 pro backup hd's but I
    checked and I think I used them to create Win 10 hd's. So the one's
    highlighted in red are possible candidate for cloning. The WD is
    a good drive but too noisy. I still may have to buy (2) new hd's for
    this after were all done.

    I would rather not change the boot order on the 780, it's working fine.
    It's the 8500 that's messed up and we can't change it. More importantly
    the 780 can't post to Google Groups.

    I must be doing something wrong. Every time I type about: in the URL
    it gives me the definition?

    Yes, I'm using 64 bit version,

    Here you lost me:

    If, upon starting the new Firefox, you have no Bookmarks, don't panic.
    The browser has more than one Profile folder.

    In a Command Prompt window (un-elevated is fine), you could do:

    c:
    cd Program Files
    cd Mozilla Firefox # cast a weather eye at this level, for the word "Firefox" firefox.exe -p

    and that will start up the Firefox Profile Manager. It might show
    its empty profile selected, whereas you want to change the selection
    to whatever profile is used in the browser this moment.

    I made a screen shot of the FF profile. So I have the number.

    The GDI isn't always there but I just noticed it and was wondering about it. It's no big deal I just close it.

    I never got to the macrium screen with the Patriot. The build completed successfully then I restarted the 780 and selected USB Device. At first it
    said the date and time were wrong so I corrected it in settings, then it gave me the Missing operating system.

    I'm not playing around with exe files when I don't know what I'm doing. You know my history and we have enough on our plate as it is. I really don't think it's worth our time and effort to get the patriot to work when the Rescue CD does.

    It seems things are getting more complex and the about: didn't work but about:profiles does.

    Thoughts, Suggestions?
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Nov 17 11:31:17 2023
    I checked to make sure the Patriot was active first, then tried the
    Patriot again but it gave the same response.

    https://postimg.cc/PPXJDrT1

    https://postimg.cc/gXGF7jMD

    https://postimg.cc/1451cgVR

    https://postimg.cc/VJtxLnpg

    https://postimg.cc/7JCBtyy9

    https://postimg.cc/Hr1SzKv0

    https://postimg.cc/WFy8kfJk

    https://postimg.cc/LhZBWD1x

    https://postimg.cc/Y4sYnLqc

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Nov 17 13:08:32 2023
    When I type about: in the URL I get the Google search for about
    but when I type about:profiles it works.

    https://postimg.cc/xcdYd8V7

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Nov 17 13:57:20 2023
    I think until we get the 780 to post on Google Groups I'd rather not
    mess with the 8500. We can mess with the 780 but if something
    happened to the 8500 I'd loose contact. and I use the 8500 allot.

    So I would really feel it's loss.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Nov 17 13:43:53 2023
    So are you saying next time the IE11 pops up to disconnect
    the internet enable and then select the defaults for IE11 and
    then what? I would need your step by step instructions to do
    that. Do you recommend I do this? Of course, I always have
    the mrimgs to restore it but I would hate to screw up the 8500
    when its working OK and the 780 can't post to Google Groups
    so I would be left in the dark on my own.

    I would rather not mess with the booting order, that isn't the problem.
    The problems as I see them are

    1. the 780 can't post to Google groups
    2. the Patriot completes the WinPE10 download successfully but
    it won't boot macrium when I select USB device. It says it's missing
    operating sys. and I checked that it was active before I started.
    3. install RAM and PCI card and run mini disk
    4. run memtest 86

    The only thing about using the F12 on the 780 it takes for ever,.. on
    the 8500 it doesn't take much at all. So I much prefer using the Rescue
    CD's than the Patriot.

    So if the BIOS doesn't know about the PCI card does that mean my
    previous mrimgs will still work? even with a different PE? I wouldn't
    think so.

    I found the FF folder in Programs as you describe. So it's 64 bit
    I'm a bit iffy about loosing my bookmarks. I opened up the command
    prompt and typed cd program files, but said it couldn't find specified files.

    As I said I took a screen shot of my profile number and saved it in a folder.



    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Nov 18 15:10:25 2023
    On 11/17/2023 4:43 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    So are you saying next time the IE11 pops up to disconnect
    the internet enable and then select the defaults for IE11 and
    then what? I would need your step by step instructions to do
    that. Do you recommend I do this? Of course, I always have
    the mrimgs to restore it but I would hate to screw up the 8500
    when its working OK and the 780 can't post to Google Groups
    so I would be left in the dark on my own.

    I'm saying they can't break IE11 if the network cable is
    disconnected while you service it. But, unless we can figure
    out the attack mechanism they are using, there's a good chance
    it will stop working anyway, if IE11 has the home page set to MSN.com
    or similar. I don't know the answer to this, and I'm not
    spending any time rolling stuff back and trying to fix it.

    Pulling the network cable, is if you wanted to technically keep it
    running, even if IE11 is now useless for any practical purpose.
    On some OSes, Windows Update relied on Internet Explorer, in order
    to work. That would be a reason to *not* be breaking Internet Explorer.

    I would rather not mess with the booting order, that isn't the problem.
    The problems as I see them are

    1. the 780 can't post to Google groups

    Install the ESR version of Firefox, using the link I provided.
    This receives support until September 2024 on Windows 7.

    It was 115.4.0ESR or so. Something like that.

    You may need to use Profile Manager, to select the original profile.
    Or, you could make a copy of the Profile folder. Or, you could
    use the Import function.

    For the Profile Manager (keep a backup of the profile folder handy)

    c:
    cd "Program Files"
    cd "Mozilla Firefox"
    firefox.exe -p # The reason I always put the EXE on the end, is to show
    # people my example code is NOT Linux stuff :-) It's a
    # hint to people, the commands are for Windows.
    # This option starts the Profile Manager.
    # The display will be confusing, so I expect further
    # discussion will result.

    2. the Patriot completes the WinPE10 download successfully but
    it won't boot macrium when I select USB device. It says it's missing operating sys. and I checked that it was active before I started.

    Well, unticking the hybrid box, seems to make no difference here.
    It's still hybrid. Hybrid *should* work on a legacy boot machine.
    I made a real USB stick, and tested both modes on the X79 test machine
    (roughly similar to the 8500 in terms of age), and as usual, both
    boot modes worked. (More testing in the house here, will have to wait
    for Tuesday.)

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/mgG7XcLW/macrium-PE10-test-hybrid-pass-on-X79.gif

    3. install RAM and PCI card and run mini disk
    4. run memtest 86

    The only thing about using the F12 on the 780 it takes for ever,.. on
    the 8500 it doesn't take much at all. So I much prefer using the Rescue
    CD's than the Patriot.

    It could be part of the RAID-ready behavior of the 780. Dunno.
    The 780 BIOS is not entirely honest about the modes it is using.
    You can get a 780 out of RAID-ready mode, but it might be switching
    to Compatibility mode when the BIOS label says AHCI mode. It's
    a discouraging thing to have to deal with for a user. Like pulling
    teeth when you want to get something done.


    So if the BIOS doesn't know about the PCI card does that mean my
    previous mrimgs will still work? even with a different PE? I wouldn't
    think so.

    Of course they will work.

    What it means (conveniently), is the external USB hard drive cannot
    interfere with booting. Whatever "boot symptoms" you had before, they
    will not change after the PCI Express USB3 card is added to the 780,
    and an external drive is plugged into the USB3 cards.

    Depending on what media you boot with ("old" media versus "new" media),
    either the external drive plugged into the USB3 card will be detected, or
    it will not be detected. If not detected, simply move the external hard
    drive to a USB2 port (after the machine is booted and USB3 did not work).
    You can still back up at 30MB/sec, via USB2, and the USB2 will always
    work. I don't think there is an old enough WinPE available to break USB2 :-)

    If you are restoring, you use "new" media to do the restore, you use
    the USB3 port for the external, then the restore could go as fast as
    150MB/sec. Assuming the external enclosure has the blue tab and is USB3.


    I found the FF folder in Programs as you describe. So it's 64 bit
    I'm a bit iffy about loosing my bookmarks. I opened up the command
    prompt and typed cd program files, but said it couldn't find specified files.

    As I said I took a screen shot of my profile number and saved it in a folder.



    Robert

    Powershell and cmd.exe are slightly different.

    In Powershell, it is

    c:

    cd "Program Files"

    whereas using cmd.exe, it is

    c:

    cd Program Files

    The difference is, in Command Prompt, a limited set of commands have
    "relaxed" syntax.

    In Command Prompt,

    Program Files
    "Program Files"

    might well do the same thing (for cd command). Whereas Powershell

    "Program Files"

    is the only thing that works. Syntax checking is more
    strict in Powershell. Powershell is designed to annoy and
    I'm all the time getting red text and having to re-enter stuff.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Nov 18 14:01:44 2023
    I understand what your saying about IE11,
    but as you said, it has a problem. So I don't
    understand why I would do it and loose my
    bookmarks and especially because the 780
    can't post to Google Groups.

    As far about it making MSN the homepage
    couldn't I just do about:blank again as my
    homepage? That's what I have it set to now.

    I see, so your suggesting to do it just for continuity
    for Internet Explorer even if it doesn't work? won't
    that make FF worst? It could really screw everything
    up though. It's very risky, even if I disconnect the cable.
    I will have to reconnect it and I may not be able
    to contact you if something goes wrong.

    Ok, lets say I get the IE11 pop-up again and I
    disconnect the internet cable, then do I select
    the defaults? If I loose my bookmarks and I
    have a screenshot of them with that also go
    away or will it still be there? I suppose as a
    backup I should write them down somewhere.

    Lets say I have my numbers. How do I recover
    my bookmarks if they are missing?

    I installed the 115.4 0ESR on the 780, but it still
    was unable to post to Google Groups. See what
    I mean. I have a case of 'Murphy's law and you
    know my history better than anyone. That's why
    I'm leery of messing with the 8500.

    https://postimg.cc/SXtSy99f

    https://postimg.cc/t76qjY4F

    https://postimg.cc/BP5f1Pjy

    https://postimg.cc/kDQ0s85Y

    https://postimg.cc/5HQGCQG3

    https://postimg.cc/4nGfXX7M

    https://postimg.cc/bZ4PWPfm

    https://postimg.cc/PpQkC8p7

    You lost me here......

    You may need to use Profile Manager, to select the original profile.
    Or, you could make a copy of the Profile folder. Or, you could
    use the Import function.

    For the Profile Manager (keep a backup of the profile folder handy)

    c:
    cd "Program Files"
    cd "Mozilla Firefox"
    firefox.exe -p # The reason I always put the EXE on the end, is to show
    # people my example code is NOT Linux stuff :-) It's a
    # hint to people, the commands are for Windows.
    # This option starts the Profile Manager.
    # The display will be confusing, so I expect further
    # discussion will result.

    I opened up a cmd prompt and tried the cd "program files"

    https://postimg.cc/2bCrCxcJ

    https://postimg.cc/njzX2Z40


    I also tried cd program files and it gave the same response.
    I must be doing something wrong.

    Good to know my previous mrimgs will still work with the new
    PCI card and drivers.

    It would be a pain to put in the PI card and run the mini disc
    only to find that it's not detected when I plug the external hd
    in ? Lets hope for the best and it works. It's true I could still
    use the 2.0 USb port as always.

    To tell the truth I'm rather excited about adding the RAM. I know
    I won't see any real difference in performance but just having it.

    Well lets hope I don't have to restore anything although I have
    done it a couple of times. However, as I said, I do want to clone
    a couple of 2TB backup hd's for the 8500.


    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Nov 19 02:45:53 2023
    On 11/17/2023 1:56 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I did select the Patriot icon in the background but it didn't work.

    As I said I don't even wan to go down the IE11 path, even is I
    disconnect the internet it's full of hazards and pitfalls and I don't
    have your expertise to deal with it. I like FF but if at some point
    it becomes a problem I have my Win 10 bootable HD's

    https://postimg.cc/mtRLYFrD

    I've said all along that I have spare Win 2 pro backup hd's but I
    checked and I think I used them to create Win 10 hd's. So the one's highlighted in red are possible candidate for cloning. The WD is
    a good drive but too noisy. I still may have to buy (2) new hd's for
    this after were all done.

    I would rather not change the boot order on the 780, it's working fine.
    It's the 8500 that's messed up and we can't change it. More importantly
    the 780 can't post to Google Groups.

    I must be doing something wrong. Every time I type about: in the URL
    it gives me the definition?

    Yes, I'm using 64 bit version,

    Here you lost me:

    If, upon starting the new Firefox, you have no Bookmarks, don't panic.
    The browser has more than one Profile folder.

    In a Command Prompt window (un-elevated is fine), you could do:

    c:
    cd Program Files
    cd Mozilla Firefox # cast a weather eye at this level, for the word "Firefox" firefox.exe -p

    and that will start up the Firefox Profile Manager. It might show
    its empty profile selected, whereas you want to change the selection
    to whatever profile is used in the browser this moment.

    I made a screen shot of the FF profile. So I have the number.

    The GDI isn't always there but I just noticed it and was wondering about it. It's no big deal I just close it.

    I never got to the macrium screen with the Patriot. The build completed successfully then I restarted the 780 and selected USB Device. At first it said the date and time were wrong so I corrected it in settings, then it gave me the Missing operating system.

    I'm not playing around with exe files when I don't know what I'm doing. You know my history and we have enough on our plate as it is. I really don't think
    it's worth our time and effort to get the patriot to work when the Rescue CD does.

    It seems things are getting more complex and the about: didn't work but about:profiles does.

    Thoughts, Suggestions?
    Robert

    about:

    should work as a URL in Firefox. Perhaps not in Chrome.
    OK, I tested in Firefox 119.0.1 and that is no longer working!
    You can get about-info from the Help menu -- assuming your Menu
    bar is turned on. The three-bar Hamburger menu on the upper
    right, also has Help and About.

    about:about

    should tell you about the other Firefox flag values. And that
    is how you learn which other things work.

    Things are getting more complex, because they keep screwing around
    with stuff. That's why.

    At the mall yesterday, I tried to use the "store search" on one
    of the touch-sensitive panels. One info box was covering the other
    info boxes. I was required to... remember how a smartphone works
    (which I don't own), use a squeeze gesture with two fingers
    (did not know the touch panels at the mall are actually multi-touch),
    rotate my two fingers about 30 degrees, causing the search result
    to finally align with the cartesian coordinate system and the
    screen to clear up. WTF is this ? Life on Mars ??? :-) I did eventually
    figure out where the store moved. One of the touch panels had
    crashed... but I didn't try to reinstall the OS or anything.

    I feel like such a Boomer.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Nov 19 02:53:11 2023
    On 11/17/2023 4:57 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I think until we get the 780 to post on Google Groups I'd rather not
    mess with the 8500. We can mess with the 780 but if something
    happened to the 8500 I'd loose contact. and I use the 8500 allot.

    So I would really feel it's loss.

    Robert




    http://releases.mozilla.org/pub/firefox/releases/115.4.0esr/win64/en-US/

    # About 56MB or so.

    http://releases.mozilla.org/pub/firefox/releases/115.4.0esr/win64/en-US/Firefox%20Setup%20115.4.0esr.exe

    That will put the 780 on the Firefox ESR stream.

    If you've done "about:profiles", then you should have a root profile
    value, and it might have a bookmarks file or your bookmarks in it.

    You undoubtedly have backups of that. I would make a backup copy,
    even if you only copy and paste that into your Downloads folder,
    that would be good enough.

    By using

    firefox.exe -p

    from the Mozilla Firefox folder, you can select a profile of your
    choice, while running the new ESR Firefox. The Firefox program
    will see "compatibility.ini" in the profile, and migrate the
    profile to Firefox 115 version. Mainly that's things like
    trying to move your passwords forward, if you have passwords
    stored in Firefox.

    Once you've selected your profile, and the bookmarks menu demonstrates
    a full bookmarks list (as proof you've selected the correct profile),
    now you can try posting into groups.google.com as a test.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Nov 19 08:42:03 2023
    There's no way I'm touching the 8500 unless I can post with the 780.
    That was the whole purpose of the 780 in case the 8500 had problems.
    That's why I bought it and I've used it several times as intended but
    now it's useless as a backup computer if I can't post to Google.groups.

    Yes about: should work because about:profiles does but that's what I
    mean; things that should work don't. You tested it and saw for yourself.

    • the 8500 should read cd's but doesn't and doesn't let us change the boot order either
    • the 780 should read the Patriot after I created the PE10 but doesn't • the 780 can't post to Google.groups where before it could
    • in the cmd prompt (cd) should work, and (cd program profiles) should work(without parenthesis) but they don't.

    I think you showed me this before and is how I usually check if FF is up to date.

    https://postimg.cc/JDYsRsLC

    https://postimg.cc/BPqf7gyq

    Understood, just look at all the OS's since XP ! I'm glad I got Win 7 Pro, it's been an excellent choice and the Dell computers. The spam is ruining it for everyone.

    Your Mall story is exactly how I feel and I AM a boomer *L* I'm 69 years old. It's hard for me to even keep up with old technology let alone all the new stuff
    and I can see AI being used for the wrong purposes. i.e. Terminator.

    I did click your 115.4 0esr link and downloaded it to the 780, can't you see my post
    on it with pics?

    I have done the about:profiles and took a screen shot of the root values.

    It seems your not seeing the previous posts for some reason. I did all of this.

    Here's a pic of the 780 showing FF is up to date:

    https://postimg.cc/sB8Q5BMf

    I tried posting and again it failed.

    I don't know what you mean by having backups to my profile? I made a folder for it and put it My Documents under computer.

    You kind of lost me on the FF folder and using it with ESR on the 780?

    Are you saying to open the Mozilla Firefox folder and click the Firefox.exe on the 780?

    The 780 is up to date. Again, it seems your not seeing all my previous posts.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Nov 19 11:06:47 2023
    If your not seeing my previous posts then it's even
    more important I don't touch the 8500 and the 780
    still can't post even though FF is up to date. I believe
    this part of the spam effect happening where you can't
    see my previous posts so it's hit and miss now and the
    780 can't post although it use to be able to.. and a.i.o.e
    is down.

    I'll install the RAM and the PCI card with mini disk

    then I'll run a memtest86

    I'll take pics and post them and hopefully you'll see them.

    I still would like to create two backup Win 7 pro (2)TB hd'ds
    for the 8500.

    I was thinking of using one of the leftover hd's as a
    storage hd not a mrimg per se where I would browse my
    C: drive and cut/paste folders from the 8500 to make it
    more lean but where I could still access them if needed.
    That's much later,... though,..


    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Nov 19 23:02:15 2023
    I installed the 115.4 0ESR on the 780, but it still
    was unable to post to Google Groups. See what
    I mean. I have a case of 'Murphy's law and you
    know my history better than anyone.

    https://postimg.cc/SXtSy99f

    https://postimg.cc/t76qjY4F

    https://postimg.cc/BP5f1Pjy

    https://postimg.cc/kDQ0s85Y

    https://postimg.cc/5HQGCQG3

    https://postimg.cc/4nGfXX7M

    https://postimg.cc/bZ4PWPfm

    https://postimg.cc/PpQkC8p7

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Nov 21 03:58:57 2023
    On 11/19/2023 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    If your not seeing my previous posts then it's even
    more important I don't touch the 8500 and the 780
    still can't post even though FF is up to date. I believe
    this part of the spam effect happening where you can't
    see my previous posts so it's hit and miss now and the
    780 can't post although it use to be able to.. and a.i.o.e
    is down.

    I'll install the RAM and the PCI card with mini disk

    then I'll run a memtest86

    I'll take pics and post them and hopefully you'll see them.

    I still would like to create two backup Win 7 pro (2)TB hd'ds
    for the 8500.

    I was thinking of using one of the leftover hd's as a
    storage hd not a mrimg per se where I would browse my
    C: drive and cut/paste folders from the 8500 to make it
    more lean but where I could still access them if needed.
    That's much later,... though,..


    Robert


    It turns out, the WinPE 10 Macrium USB flash stick, was booting.

    (Now that some floor space was freed up today, I was able to set up
    another computer to test with.)

    My USB flash stick doesn't have a LED, so I cannot see anything flashing while it loads.

    *******

    After Macrium finishes making a USB flash stick, you can do this.

    https://msfn.org/board/topic/157576-winpe-4-load-screen-no-progress-indicator/

    "Is there a way to show progress bars while WinPE 4 is loading?

    Use legacy boot menu.

    bcdedit.exe /store F:\Boot\bcd /set {default} bootmenupolicy legacy
    "

    I used the letter F: there, because that was the letter my Macrium
    stick was using at the time. The previous value of the bootmenupolicy
    was "Standard", and I changed it to "legacy".

    What that does, is it shows a progress bar while the USB stick is
    loaded into RAM.

    It showed me that, yes, the USB stick was booting, and yes,
    it was doing the loading of the USB stick, pretty damn slow!

    Now, if you don't make that mod, the stick still works, but
    you have to be patient if it takes 30 seconds to 60 seconds
    for the Optiplex 780 to do it. The benefit of the progress bar,
    is you know it's working, and so you can be less patient :-)

    I tested WinPE 4 and WinPE 10 and none of the symptoms changed.
    It was slow in both cases, and booting did not really change
    between those two versions.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Nov 21 03:50:09 2023
    On 11/19/2023 11:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    There's no way I'm touching the 8500 unless I can post with the 780.
    That was the whole purpose of the 780 in case the 8500 had problems.
    That's why I bought it and I've used it several times as intended but
    now it's useless as a backup computer if I can't post to Google.groups.

    Yes about: should work because about:profiles does but that's what I
    mean; things that should work don't. You tested it and saw for yourself.

    • the 8500 should read cd's but doesn't and doesn't let us change the boot order either
    • the 780 should read the Patriot after I created the PE10 but doesn't • the 780 can't post to Google.groups where before it could
    • in the cmd prompt (cd) should work, and (cd program profiles) should work(without parenthesis) but they don't.

    I think you showed me this before and is how I usually check if FF is up to date.

    https://postimg.cc/JDYsRsLC

    https://postimg.cc/BPqf7gyq

    Understood, just look at all the OS's since XP ! I'm glad I got Win 7 Pro, it's been an excellent choice and the Dell computers. The spam is ruining it for everyone.

    Your Mall story is exactly how I feel and I AM a boomer *L* I'm 69 years old. It's hard for me to even keep up with old technology let alone all the new stuff
    and I can see AI being used for the wrong purposes. i.e. Terminator.

    I did click your 115.4 0esr link and downloaded it to the 780, can't you see my post
    on it with pics?

    I have done the about:profiles and took a screen shot of the root values.

    It seems your not seeing the previous posts for some reason. I did all of this.

    Here's a pic of the 780 showing FF is up to date:

    https://postimg.cc/sB8Q5BMf

    I tried posting and again it failed.

    I don't know what you mean by having backups to my profile? I made a folder for it and put it My Documents under computer.

    You kind of lost me on the FF folder and using it with ESR on the 780?

    Are you saying to open the Mozilla Firefox folder and click the Firefox.exe on the 780?

    The 780 is up to date. Again, it seems your not seeing all my previous posts.

    Robert


    If you do a search for "profiles.ini", the Firefox profile folders are
    at the same level as that file.

    C:\users\Bullwinkle\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\Firefox\
    profiles.ini
    Profiles\
    5pi451dl.default\ (small)
    vfoi5r0q.default-release\ ~50MB <=== my bookmarks are in here

    If I do about:profiles

    "This is the profile in use and it cannot be deleted"

    Root Directory
    C:\users\Bullwinkle\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\Firefox\Profiles\vfoi5r0q.default-release <=== copy this folder for later
    my bookmarks are in here, but
    I could also Export a set.
    That's to show you the relative position of the folders.

    If I were to install Firefox (ESR), then what it should do, is
    install more profile folders.

    C:\users\Bullwinkle\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\Firefox\
    profiles.ini
    Profiles\
    5pi451dl.default\ (small)
    vfoi5r0q.default-release\ ~50MB <=== this has my bookmarks
    q5e08poh.default-esr ~44MB <=== the new one doesn't have my bookmarks

    about:profiles # (scroll down a bit to see it)

    "This is the profile in use and it cannot be deleted"

    Root Directory
    C:\users\Bullwinkle\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\Firefox\Profiles\q5e08poh.default-esr <=== naturally, it's using the empty profile

    I mentioned using the -p option and running Firefox from a
    user Command Prompt window, allowing selection of the previous
    browser folder.

    I went from Firefox 119 back to Firefox 115.5.0ESR and
    that is a "downgrade of version". That's why the command that
    worked here, was

    firefox.exe --allow-downgrade -p

    and that starts the Profile Manager and allows selecting the old profile
    with the bookmarks in it. Before I started, I backed up the profile
    I'm selecting, so if there is trouble, I can roll back. Now, in your
    case, maybe your version is moving forward, so --allow-downgrade isn't needed.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/FRNjycBz/profile-manager-firefox-select-old-profile.gif

    I can't guarantee everything will work there (like passwords to sites you use frequently), but it should be OK.

    You're using the ESR version in this case, because it is supported until September 2024. This isn't for fun, it's what Win7 users need to do to
    have a supported browser.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 21 09:01:16 2023
    OK, so I wait till I see the next pop-up for IE-11? Is it
    a certainty that I'll loose my bookmarks? and MSN will
    be my home page?

    Lets say IE-11 pops up again, I then disconnect the
    Internet connection, then select the defaults, the just
    let it run ? If it makes MSN my home page I can type
    FF then about:blank for my home page couldn't I?

    I did a search for profiles.ini and it showed nothing.

    https://postimg.cc/Jym95jJW

    Here's my profile:

    https://postimg.cc/D4SfL0YL

    I already have taken a screenshot and saved in a folder
    in MyDocuments.

    I am trying to follow your instructions but the cd and cd
    program files do not work in the cmd prompt.

    How do I backup my profile? Are you saying do mrimgs
    first? You mean I may loose my access to sites because
    my passwords won't work? Like eBay or my bank? How
    do I recover from that!

    The Patriot never booted, the problem isn't a progress bar
    it's missing operating system.

    The 780 still is unable to post where before it had.

    Hopefully the RAM will arrive soon and I'll be able to install
    it and the PCI card and run the mini disk that came with it.
    Then I'll do a memteat86.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 21 08:51:56 2023
    OK, so I wait till I see the next pop-up for IE-11? Is it
    a certainty that I'll loose my bookmarks? and MSN will
    be my home page?

    Lets say IE-11 pops up again, I then disconnect the
    Internet connection, then select the defaults, the just
    let it run ? If it makes MSN my home page I can type
    FF then about:blank for my home page couldn't I?

    I did a search for profiles.ini and it showed nothing.

    https://postimg.cc/Jym95jJW

    Here's my profile:

    https://postimg.cc/gx788b79

    I already have taken a screenshot and saved in a folder
    in MyDocuments.

    I am trying to follow your instructions but the cd and cd
    program files do not work in the cmd prompt.

    How do I backup my profile? Are you saying do mrimgs
    first? You mean I may loose my access to sites because
    my passwords won't work? Like eBay or my bank? How
    do I recover from that!

    The Patriot never booted, the problem isn't a progress bar
    it's missing operating system.

    The 780 still is unable to post where before it had.

    Hopefully the RAM will arrive soon and I'll be able to install
    it and the PCI card and run the mini disk that came with it.
    Then I'll do a memteat86.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 21 10:36:27 2023
    I just thought if I upgrade to IE11 successfully will I
    get pop-ups to upgrade to Edge? Should I also do that?

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 21 10:27:58 2023
    You're saying I'm moving forward because I'm
    getting the IE11 pop-ups correct? So that's why
    I don't need to do all the other stuff i.e. Firefox.exe
    but I don't know when it will pop-up again? It's
    very infrequent. It's only popped up like 3 times
    now.

    So how should I proceed? The cmd prompt commands
    do not work for me for some reason? Usually they do
    when you give me some instructions to do something
    otherwise I don't use it.
    That's what I mean, things aren't behaving as normal.
    Like with the Patriot and the 780 can't post. That's as
    important or more so than IE11 at this point.

    I don't want to waste time on the Patriot because I made
    (2) WinPE10 Rescue CD's which will do what we want, we
    can return to it at a later date on why it's not doing what its
    suppose to do. All I get is 'missing operating system and
    you say that's part of the MBR,.. yet it shows it completed
    WinPE10 successfully.

    I checked and should receive the RAM today and if so
    will install it in the 780 along with the pci card and mini disk
    then will run memtest86 and let you know how it all goes.

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Nov 21 13:45:12 2023
    On 10/22/2023 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I tried the mrimg again but this time it didn't give me the browse option:

    https://postimg.cc/47P5YH6k

    however I managed to navigate to the mrimgs and change the drive letter to K: but it didn't give me the screen to enable access to restricted folders yet I was able to access them and copy/pasted 'My Documents' from the K drive
    to the C: drive.

    You know how it opens a dialog box and shows the files being transferred
    from one folder to the next? It did that at first but now the 'files' are frozen
    between folders and there's no apparent transfer happening. Also when the transfer completes it should close or tell me something, correct? I'm afraid to do anything since I've gotten this far with it but it seems like it's not responding.
    It just says, File operation in progress, please wait but there's no movement.
    It's been like this for about an hour now. What should I do?

    Thoughts, suggestions?
    Robert

    You have "Backup" and "Restore" buttons, to put the program
    in a basic mode of operation. I suspect in the picture, the
    "Backup" is selected. If "Restore" was selected, perhaps it would
    be easier to find a "Browse" on there somewhere.

    I agree the program can be confusing. And I've fallen for
    all the same traps. For example, for several years, I didn't
    know there was an option to back up an entire computer in
    one go of it. Like, stuff all the partitions of three hard
    drives, into one MRIMG.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Nov 21 14:28:32 2023
    On 11/21/2023 11:51 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    OK, so I wait till I see the next pop-up for IE-11? Is it
    a certainty that I'll loose my bookmarks? and MSN will
    be my home page?

    Lets say IE-11 pops up again, I then disconnect the
    Internet connection, then select the defaults, the just
    let it run ? If it makes MSN my home page I can type
    FF then about:blank for my home page couldn't I?

    1) Disconnect network cable.

    2) In File Explorer, navigate to the C:\Program Files where Internet Explorer lives.
    Double-click the iexplore.exe. C:\Program Files\Internet Explorer
    is a likely location for it.

    3) At that point, you may see the dialog appear, asking for your Preferences.
    It doesn't much matter what you select there, as long as you can get the
    main Internet Explorer window to appear right after that dialog is done.

    If Internet Explorer actually has "Favorites" (bookmarks) you added, the
    only suggestion I can make there, is to import them into Firefox. In Firefox, from Menu bar

    Manage Bookmarks : Import and Backup : Import Data From Another Browser

    If Firefox understands your browser fleet, it should then list browsers
    you can import bookmarks from. Otherwise, select Cancel, and move on ...


    I did a search for profiles.ini and it showed nothing.

    https://postimg.cc/Jym95jJW

    I personally prefer third-party search tools for Windows. They're not "fast" particularly, but they can be a little more thorough. Back when Vista was the OS at the time, the Search in there, you could select "Try Harder" and that option would actually find stuff.

    If you have File Explorer open, in the upper right hand corner, you can enter:

    filename:profiles ext:ini

    and that is a complete specification that does not "trigger" off any file contents. It won't be looking inside of any files, for those two terms,
    if you state the search that way. In Windows 11, they've done away with
    the green progress bar, so when you do a search like that, you don't
    know which week you'll be getting results :-/

    If you entered a search like this, this produces "too much garbage results", and this is why we use "search syntax" because the search tool is so dumb. Typing filename: and ext: all the time, is a pain in the ass, but it's
    the right tool for the job. There is an implicit AND when you use the above syntax.

    profiles


    Here's my profile:

    https://postimg.cc/gx788b79

    I already have taken a screenshot and saved in a folder
    in MyDocuments.

    I am trying to follow your instructions but the cd and cd
    program files do not work in the cmd prompt.

    How do I backup my profile? Are you saying do mrimgs
    first? You mean I may loose my access to sites because
    my passwords won't work? Like eBay or my bank? How
    do I recover from that!

    In your picture, I see "o654pbn5.default".

    I would copy that folder to a safe place, like "in-case-ESR-experiment-fails" folder.

    If you needed to restore it at a later date, you remove the o654pbn5.default folder
    from roaming, toss in the garbage, then restore the folder you have in "in-case-ESR-experiment-fails" folder in its place. That rolls back the profile to the point it was, before ESR modified it.

    All I'm trying to do, is keep your bookmarks around, in case
    I hear "my bookmarks are gone" at some later date.


    The Patriot never booted, the problem isn't a progress bar
    it's missing operating system.

    The 780 still is unable to post where before it had.

    Well, you tell me the Patriot stick is "Active", and not having "Active"
    is a primary reason for a "Missing OS" kind of error. Having "Active" is
    also an indicator the partition type is MBR and not GPT.

    This is my WinPE 10 Macrium 7 USB key, that worked when I tested it.
    On the X79 (my test machine), the popup boot showed both a UEFI entry
    and a legacy boot entry (that means the stick is hybrid). When I tested WinPE 4,
    it worked basically the same way (I tested that, because at first I didn't think the stick was booting, when it was). Then, I went back to WinPE 10 before taking this picture.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/zX1Zt0pj/macrium7-winpe10-stick-details.gif


    Hopefully the RAM will arrive soon and I'll be able to install
    it and the PCI card and run the mini disk that came with it.
    Then I'll do a memteat86.

    Robert


    Yup.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Nov 21 14:37:23 2023
    On 11/21/2023 1:36 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I just thought if I upgrade to IE11 successfully will I
    get pop-ups to upgrade to Edge? Should I also do that?

    Robert


    I don't know if MSEdge is available for Windows 7 any more.

    They stopped making a Windows 7 version of Chrome, so I
    presume MSEdge may be at the end of its path too.

    You can trudge through the sludge here, for evidence.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/deployedge/microsoft-edge-supported-operating-systems

    "With Windows 7 end of support on January 10th, 2023, Microsoft Edge version 109
    will be the last browser version to support this operating system."

    "Linux

    Microsoft Edge is supported on Linux." <=== Hah!

    Of course they could keep it running, if they wanted to.
    This isn't rocket science. A thing that used to work, hasn't
    been re-architected, it's a doddle to keep it running.

    *******

    Firefox ESR is good until September next year. That is all. That is all there is.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 21 12:47:40 2023
    The mail came and went but no RAM. I had just checked
    earlier and it said out for delivery. I checked again after I
    checked the mail and it said it couldn't find the address
    and was being shipped back! Yet the PCI card had no
    problem getting here.
    So I sent them a message with an alternate address. I
    live on a county line where I have a route address and a
    street address and hopefully they will get it right this time.
    See what I mean? So we have to wait a bit longer.

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Nov 21 17:13:46 2023
    On 11/21/2023 4:48 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    In your first post it seems like an older posting
    we did awhile back when I was trying to browse
    the mrimgs and I was having problems. I have all
    that documented on how to do it., I could never
    remember*L*

    I followed your instructions to the Internet Explorer
    folder and file iexplore.exe.

    https://postimg.cc/2bpxYsRD

    Since I don't use Internet Explorer Can't I just
    close it and use FF? The same way I can use
    Internet Explorer now if I want? The whole
    purpose of doing IE11 is to extend Win 7 but
    not replace my FF.

    So I would need to go into my about:profiles
    and create a new profile with my old profile
    number with bookmarks.

    I did a Agent Ransack search of profiles.ini

    https://postimg.cc/rz29PRLY

    You kind of lost me on why were doing this,..

    I do have a screenshot of my folder but I will
    write it down, just in case.

    Here's my Patriot on Admin Account because
    that's the only way I can access disk management

    https://postimg.cc/4nZhkz2q

    what does crash dump mean? Do I have a bad hd?
    I have it on both computers.

    Well, if Win 7 should stop working for me I still
    have my bootable Win 10 hd's,,, that we made.

    Robert


    There are various sizes of "Dump" when something crashes.

    A lot of applications produce mini-dump, which might be 64KB
    and give a stack trace. The file extension might be .dmp for
    those.

    The largest kind of dump, dumps the entire computer memory
    to a file. If the hiberfil.sys is large enough (the user was
    careful to resize it in advance), then an entire machine state
    could be dumped in that case. Such a dump could have passwords
    or other personal information in it. A complete memory dump,
    might be opened with WinDbg and farmed for information. WinDbg
    would be something associated with Visual Studio.

    *******

    The only weirdness I see in your Patriot image, is Macrium made
    a partition as big as the entire drive. In my picture, for some
    reason mine made a 1GB partition. The boot.wim might be 300MB,
    or about a third of the 1GB partition. You do not particularly
    need a 14GB partition for a Rescue CD. That's big enough
    for an OS installer disc.

    Since the partition label is different too, my guess is that this
    stick is NOT a boot stick (even though it is active). Or, perhaps
    Macrium didn't even try to write it. As I might have mentioned
    in a previous post, USB stick operations frequently fail, for
    reasons of their own. It's very hard to get a good result on
    the first try.

    If Macrium failed, I would hope there would be a descriptive error
    message on the screen at the time.

    This is the content of my USB stick 1GB active partition. I only included
    one file size, since most of the other files are small ones. This is using
    tree /F

    Folder PATH listing for volume MACRIUM_PE
    Volume serial number is AED6-434E
    E:.
    │ bootmgfw.efi
    │ bootmgr
    │ bootmgr.efi
    │ PEVersion
    │ RMBuilder.xml
    │ Version
    │ x64

    ├───Boot
    │ │ BCD
    │ │ bcdedit.exe
    │ │ boot.sdi
    │ │ bootfix.bin
    │ │ efisys_noprompt.bin
    │ │ efisys_prompt.bin
    │ │ etfsboot.com
    │ │ memtest.exe
    │ │
    │ └───Fonts
    │ wgl4_boot.ttf

    ├───Drivers
    │ │ Macrium.oem
    │ │ SearchPaths.txt
    │ │
    │ └───USB
    │ ├───VEN_1B21_DEV_1142
    │ │ usbxhci.inf
    │ │ USBXHCI.SYS
    │ │ UsbXhciCompanion.dll
    │ │
    │ ├───VEN_8086_DEV_1D26
    │ │ usbd.sys
    │ │ usbehci.inf
    │ │ usbehci.sys
    │ │ usbhub.sys
    │ │ usbohci.sys
    │ │ usbport.inf
    │ │ usbport.sys
    │ │ usbuhci.sys
    │ │
    │ └───VEN_8086_DEV_1D2D
    │ usbd.sys
    │ usbehci.inf
    │ usbehci.sys
    │ usbhub.sys
    │ usbohci.sys
    │ usbport.inf
    │ usbport.sys
    │ usbuhci.sys

    ├───EFI
    │ ├───Boot
    │ │ │ bootx64.efi
    │ │ │
    │ │ └───en-us
    │ │ bootx64.efi.mui
    │ │
    │ └───Microsoft
    │ └───Boot
    │ │ BCD
    │ │ memtest.efi
    │ │
    │ ├───en-us
    │ │ memtest.efi.mui
    │ │
    │ └───Fonts
    │ wgl4_boot.ttf

    ├───en-us
    │ bootmgr.efi.mui

    └───sources
    boot.wim 277,329,218 bytes

    There's nothing in that list, that smacks of "hybrid indicator".
    That's why I haven't been reviewing file content with you, since
    I don't know if there is anything in that list that is peculiar
    to the legacy boot the 780 uses. I got my info about hybrid support,
    from my X79 popup boot menu, which shows two entries for the stick.
    Two entries means "hybrid".

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 21 13:48:05 2023
    In your first post it seems like an older posting
    we did awhile back when I was trying to browse
    the mrimgs and I was having problems. I have all
    that documented on how to do it., I could never
    remember*L*

    I followed your instructions to the Internet Explorer
    folder and file iexplore.exe.

    https://postimg.cc/2bpxYsRD

    Since I don't use Internet Explorer Can't I just
    close it and use FF? The same way I can use
    Internet Explorer now if I want? The whole
    purpose of doing IE11 is to extend Win 7 but
    not replace my FF.

    So I would need to go into my about:profiles
    and create a new profile with my old profile
    number with bookmarks.

    I did a Agent Ransack search of profiles.ini

    https://postimg.cc/rz29PRLY

    You kind of lost me on why were doing this,..

    I do have a screenshot of my folder but I will
    write it down, just in case.

    Here's my Patriot on Admin Account because
    that's the only way I can access disk management

    https://postimg.cc/4nZhkz2q

    what does crash dump mean? Do I have a bad hd?
    I have it on both computers.

    Well, if Win 7 should stop working for me I still
    have my bootable Win 10 hd's,,, that we made.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 21 15:29:14 2023
    I'll try and remake the WinPE10 again on the Patriot and
    we'll see if it works this time when I reboot. It should detect
    it like a cd without changing the boot order. This time I clicked
    enable multi boot (MBR/UEFI) and selected USB Flash drive
    Advanced>WIM = WinPE10 (WADK)>build>creating rescue
    media>successfully created> close, switch user> diskmgnt:

    https://postimg.cc/8fjJ5VJ5

    It didn't work and is the same as before.

    I still have my WinPE10 Rescue CD's that work. What should
    I do about the Patriot? Should I reformat it or erase everything
    on it or whatever? It said it was successful after the build.

    How do I remove the crash dump's from the partitions? disk
    cleaner in System Tools? I've already defragged both computes.

    Is there anything you want me to do before we proceed and
    click the iexplorer.exe?

    Before doing that, I'll make a System Restore mark, write My
    Profile numbers down btw which one do I use when creating
    a new profile?

    I'll also make mrimgs on both computers.

    What else?

    1.How do I make FF my homepage, then about:blank?
    2.Will I still have FF or do I have to install it again?
    3.what about all my anti virus and anti- maleware? Will they
    stay intact?
    4.You said I would loose my passwords so how do I get
    those back? This is an awful lot of hassle.

    I haven't used Explorer in a very long time so if
    there's anything bookmarks there they would be
    years old.


    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Nov 21 20:35:16 2023
    On 11/21/2023 6:29 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I'll try and remake the WinPE10 again on the Patriot and
    we'll see if it works this time when I reboot. It should detect
    it like a cd without changing the boot order. This time I clicked
    enable multi boot (MBR/UEFI) and selected USB Flash drive
    Advanced>WIM = WinPE10 (WADK)>build>creating rescue
    media>successfully created> close, switch user> diskmgnt:

    https://postimg.cc/8fjJ5VJ5

    It didn't work and is the same as before.

    In an Administrator window

    diskpart # This is like Disk Management.
    # You can run Disk Management at the same time, to verify what diskpart shows

    list disk
    select disk 1 # The Patriot is likely to be disk 1...
    clean # Be careful with this command. Make sure you selected the right thing,
    # before issuing the command.
    exit

    That should leave the Patriot stick empty. That is what I use,
    as part of cleaning USB sticks.

    Now, start Macrium, and make your stick again.

    Now, if anything is written on the stick, Macrium did it...


    I still have my WinPE10 Rescue CD's that work. What should
    I do about the Patriot? Should I reformat it or erase everything
    on it or whatever? It said it was successful after the build.

    Clean it, as in the previous paragraph and try again. I want
    to see proof Macrium is actually making a mess.

    You can also look at your file content later, and see if it
    matches what mine showed in the "tree" listing I posted.


    How do I remove the crash dump's from the partitions? disk
    cleaner in System Tools? I've already defragged both computes.

    Is there a physical thing, a file you are concerned about ?
    What is that file ? What is its size ? Give a path,
    like C:\something\something\... so I know where you're
    seeing this.

    The crash dump descriptor in Disk Management, is just a label
    declaring if there was a crash dump, it might go there. But the
    OS may not be configured for crash dumps in the first place,
    so the label is worry about nothing.


    Is there anything you want me to do before we proceed and
    click the iexplorer.exe?

    You expressed a concern that Internet Explorer had bookmarks,
    as if you had been using Internet Explorer at some time. Using
    Firefox, and Bookmark Management, you can import the bookmarks ("favorites")
    of Internet Explorer into Firefox, so those bookmarks do not get lost.

    If the bookmarks in Internet Explorer are of no interest to you,
    then you don't need to do anything.

    Microsoft doesn't want you to use Internet Explorer. All the
    care I'm expressing here, doesn't have any practical use, as
    sooner or later, they're going to kill yours the way they
    killed mine. I'm not going to reinstall IE11 because they'll just
    find a way to kill it again.

    The only reason for dealing with the dialog right now, is so
    the dialog stops appearing. Disconnecting the network cable
    is so there are no surprises.


    Before doing that, I'll make a System Restore mark, write My
    Profile numbers down btw which one do I use when creating
    a new profile?

    I'll also make mrimgs on both computers.

    What else?

    Well, I was proposing you switch from Firefox <regular release number>
    to Firefox ESR, as the ESR gets updates until September 2024. You don't
    have to do a thing if you don't want to. You can continue to use
    regular Firefox if you want.

    When you install Firefox ESR, it won't be "pointed" to your
    regular profile right away. That's why I was showing you the
    Profile Manager command and so on. So you could see how to
    select your regular profile, the profile with the bookmarks in it.


    1.How do I make FF my homepage, then about:blank?

    You would use about:config, and look for these two entries.

    https://stackoverflow.com/questions/33937067/firefox-webdriver-opens-first-run-page-all-the-time

    browser.startup.homepage_override.mstone ignore
    startup.homepage_welcome_url.additional about:blank

    The convoluted controls are for the joy of the Mozilla staff,
    not to help users. I don't really know if this will
    be sufficient to get them to "knock it off" or not.

    2.Will I still have FF or do I have to install it again?

    You have Firefox now. It's not supported, so no more updates will come in.

    If you switch to the ESR stream, you get support, but only for a short time.
    Is it worth screwing around, or just leave it alone ?

    If you don't like my instructions, don't do anything :-) OK ?

    3.what about all my anti virus and anti- maleware? Will they
    stay intact?

    We have not been discussing them, and they are not affected in
    any way by recent discussions.

    4.You said I would loose my passwords so how do I get
    those back? This is an awful lot of hassle.

    A profile stores things. To understand the value of a profile folder to you, you know what "automatic things" it has been doing for you. You keep backups, even full backups on your external drive, so you have "copies" of stuff for later. If the profile the browser is currently using, is say, attacked by malware for some reason, having a backup copy is convenient. My example
    in the past, might have been your Bookmarks content. Which could be considered to be stored in there.

    I haven't used Explorer in a very long time so if
    there's anything bookmarks there they would be
    years old.

    That would be my guess as well. If you were anywhere even close to
    an Internet Explorer user, the browser would have died on you weeks ago,
    just like Microsoft killed mine on Windows 7.

    You can click any old thing in that stupid prompt you are getting.
    If you do it with the network cable disconnected, that's my assurance
    that nothing will get changed on the computer on you. Once the dialog is dismissed and Internet Explorer did not open or anything, you are done
    with the issue, and can plug the network cable in again, using Firefox and
    so on.

    So if right now, you unplugged the network cable, then started iexplore.exe , then it should really present the dialog to get your preference choice,
    and that should be it. If iexplore.exe then opens its main window, because
    the network cable is disconnected, it cannot "ingest any Microsoft poison". Dismiss iexplore.exe , it stops running, plug in network cable, then carry
    on with life.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 21 23:03:58 2023
    I did it, I disconnected the ethernet cable first, then I the clicked iexplorer.exe and this is what it gave

    https://postimg.cc/QBVXdK3Q


    I would rather not use diskpart # command to
    clean the Patriot. I have enough problems to
    deal with without accidentally messing up the
    computers and erasing the wrong drive. Isn't
    there another safer way?

    The Patriot is the least of my problem right now.
    As I said, I already created (2) Rescue CD's with
    WinPE10 on them and tested them.

    My main concern is that the 780 can't post to
    Google.groups

    As far as the crash dumps, I'm just concerned they
    are there and taking up space but from what you say,
    not to worry. The system's have crashed a few times
    like when the 8500 was buzzing. I had to power it off.
    It was very unnerving, I thought it was going to explode.

    I don't remember expressing any concerns about IE
    bookmarks only about loosing my FF bookmarks.
    So I don't need to do anything as you say.

    I have FF 115.50esr 64 bit on the 8500 and it says it's
    up to date.

    This is getting so complex now I have to do about:config
    I'm not following you at all,......

    I think at this point its more important to get the 780 to post
    to Google groups.

    If Win7 dies on me what are the symtoms? I can always put
    in the Win 10 hd's we made.


    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 21 23:22:50 2023
    To add insult to injury, Newegg sent me a message saying if I wanted the
    RAM I would have to pay new shipping charges if I wanted them. The two address's were on the invoice when I bought it and just verified it with a screenshot I took at the time of purchase. So they couldn't see that one
    was shipping and one was my home address? Jeeeez

    Also it doesn't explain how I got my pci card and USB adaptor with the same address.

    I'll call Newegg tomorrow and hopefully can straighten this out. I'm rather surprised at Newegg screwing up like this and it shouldn't of taken this long to deliver and then get it wrong.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Nov 22 03:58:43 2023
    Here's my FF showing it's running the esr and is up to date.

    https://postimg.cc/7b4vG58r

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Nov 22 03:18:06 2023
    I decided to try it with another Patriot stick and
    see if it would work. I cut/pasted all the files from
    it and then checked with diskmgmt before I started
    and it looked the same as my other Patriot. Yet it
    was empty.

    https://postimg.cc/k6kBsn7b

    https://postimg.cc/LgK8fNVk

    Even so, I created a successful PE10 and then restarted
    it but it didn't detect it. So I did a F12 and selected USB
    Device and gave the same reply, missing operating system.
    now that's weird, both Patriots giving the same response.

    https://postimg.cc/SJZj17Q4

    https://postimg.cc/XG0vBsLf

    https://postimg.cc/tZyX4YRD

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Nov 22 10:38:32 2023
    I called Newegg about the RAM and they said
    my shipping address was correct but the RAM
    came from China and I'll get the same result if
    I ask them to re-ship. So I asked for a refund.

    They said all the RAM is made in China now. I
    asked if there was any RAM made in here in the U.S.
    and they said there's a company called Memory
    Masters in Calif who make the same RAM for
    $59.00 so could we get that instead?
    I tried looking for it but couldn't find it.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Nov 22 10:43:50 2023
    Newegg said they had RAM from Memory
    Masters but I just couldn't find it.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Nov 22 12:04:45 2023
    This is all I could find but it's made in the U.S.A.
    and free shipping and cheaper. What do you think?

    https://www.newegg.com/avarum-8gb/p/0RN-00UF-00212

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Nov 22 19:35:47 2023
    On 11/22/2023 6:58 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Here's my FF showing it's running the esr and is up to date.

    https://postimg.cc/7b4vG58r

    Robert


    Is this on XPS 8500 or Optiplex 780 ?

    Have you checked the Bookmarks list ?
    Is the list fully populated ?

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Nov 22 19:34:33 2023
    On 11/22/2023 2:03 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I think at this point its more important to get the 780 to post
    to Google groups.

    If Win7 dies on me what are the symtoms? I can always put
    in the Win 10 hd's we made.


    Thanks,
    Robert


    "get the 780 to post to Google groups"

    That would be this.

    FF 115.50esr 64 bit

    Please tell me, what the version of the current Optiplex 780 Firefox is.
    Help, About, or whatever method works for you.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Nov 22 19:59:37 2023
    On 11/22/2023 3:04 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    This is all I could find but it's made in the U.S.A.
    and free shipping and cheaper. What do you think?

    https://www.newegg.com/avarum-8gb/p/0RN-00UF-00212

    Robert


    The chips are Micron, and D9PFJ are from 11 years ago.

    That makes me suspect the pictures of the product are
    that old. It is unlikely the DIMMs will be exactly as
    shown when they arrive. There's a good chance those
    are x8 chips at least, so the part number did not
    suggest a nibble-wide x4 chip scam.

    Manufacturing these days is JIT. And you don't make
    so many of a modules that they sit on a shelf for eleven years.
    You could buy a huge batch of chips, and then your chips
    are 11 years old and the PCB is one year old. That's
    a possibility.

    My main concern when I vet product, is that the product
    is tested, and the RAM is not "fall-outs", or out-of-spec
    chips. When the Micron part number is printed on top, as
    long as Micron printed the number, that's a tested part.
    "Blanks" are untested. If the lid has nothing printed on it,
    it's UTT RAM. Which is fine, if the company owns a tester.

    To give you an example of a nightmare product, I bought
    eight 512MB sticks once for about half price. Five of them
    died, and the evidence suggested that there was a chemical
    impurity problem, and the DIMMs just sitting in a computer
    in storage, would kill them. Takes about three years and
    them the DIMMs throw errors like crazy. And when I got the
    RAM, of course the chips were made by a company I'd never
    heard of before. The chips were not from a "major" company
    like Hynix, Micron, or Samsung.

    I've had a lot of trouble with off-brand memory, which
    is why I don't buy it any more. Off-brand memory on average,
    lasts about a year and a half. The chemical problem, that
    wasn't even "in-service" wear -- those spent most of their
    time in storage. If they sit in an antistatic bag, they'll
    live forever. If the PC power is off, and the DIMMs sit in
    the gold sockets, that's what kills them. The three that are
    left, will eventually die. Some day. It's guaranteed, as it were.
    When I put that PC in the junk room, I take the DIMMs out
    and sit them in antistatic bags.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 23 00:05:54 2023
    I'm not sure what you mean by my bookmark list?

    If you mean about:profiles both have them but I
    haven't opened them to check what's inside.

    The 780 has regular bookmarks and is fully populated
    after I exported / imported bookmarks from the 8500.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Nov 22 23:54:04 2023
    The previous pic was of the 8500
    here's the 780 FF.

    https://postimg.cc/MMT6cg7M

    What do you think of these? I'm just shooting in the dark here.
    At least it shows (6) in stock so they don't have to ship them
    from China

    https://www.amazon.com/4GBx2-240-pin-DIMM-DDR3-PC3-12800/dp/B005NU49DG?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A2NDNAPHQ3UDKH&th=1

    Can you suggest any other RAM made in the USA? After waiting
    all that time for RAM only to find they couldn't deliver it then wanted additional shipping fees to re-ship it. Newegg said they would just
    repeat the same mistake and get it wrong again. I don't want to
    go through that again.

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Nov 23 05:11:33 2023
    On 11/23/2023 3:05 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I'm not sure what you mean by my bookmark list?

    If you mean about:profiles both have them but I
    haven't opened them to check what's inside.

    The 780 has regular bookmarks and is fully populated
    after I exported / imported bookmarks from the 8500.

    Robert


    What I was trying to explain, is if you install 115ESR, it
    makes a new profile. And the content from the old browser
    doesn't get there automatically.

    profiles.ini
    Profiles\
    5pi451dl.default\ (small)
    vfoi5r0q.default-release\ ~50MB <=== this has my bookmarks
    q5e08poh.default-esr ~44MB <=== the new one doesn't have my bookmarks

    It sounds like it must have done the right thing, if you have
    no complaints about what you see in it.

    To get my bookmarks for example, I could use the Profile Manager
    to select vfoi5r0q.default-release as the profile. The Profile
    Manager shows that choice as "default-release".

    I'm hoping you will be able to post to Google Groups
    from the 780, once 115ESR is running there. As it is
    pretty close to the latest.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Nov 23 05:25:39 2023
    On 11/23/2023 2:54 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    The previous pic was of the 8500
    here's the 780 FF.

    https://postimg.cc/MMT6cg7M

    What do you think of these? I'm just shooting in the dark here.
    At least it shows (6) in stock so they don't have to ship them
    from China

    https://www.amazon.com/4GBx2-240-pin-DIMM-DDR3-PC3-12800/dp/B005NU49DG?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A2NDNAPHQ3UDKH&th=1

    Can you suggest any other RAM made in the USA? After waiting
    all that time for RAM only to find they couldn't deliver it then wanted additional shipping fees to re-ship it. Newegg said they would just
    repeat the same mistake and get it wrong again. I don't want to
    go through that again.

    Thanks,
    Robert


    As far as I know, the end of production of the raw chips was in March.

    I'm a little surprised that Crucial did not stockpile some chips
    and continue making a module you could buy. They did that before with
    SDRAM in the old days. Perhaps five years after production stopped,
    you could still get "nice" 256MB modules. Some of the other sizes were
    missing, but they had the right ones, that fit in several old junk
    PCs here.

    I do not know if the small fabs, have the aggressive equipment to make
    2Gbit chips. In the old days, more companies could make stuff. It
    costs a fortune (2 billion to 10 billion) to build a fab now, so this
    is not the territory for a company with a couple thousand employees.

    I wanted to get some DDR3 for my laptop, but I've given up on
    the project. The modules I wanted, are all gone.

    If there had been any pre-announcement of what was happening,
    I could have reviewed my "stock" at the time, and not missed the boat.

    You could try at Best Buy or Staples and see what they've got. But
    from March to November is a long time, and if there was anything left
    it's long gone by now. Like, my computer store just doesn't stock
    anything now. They only have the "most popular items", like some new motherboards, CPUs to go in them, and RAM to go with them. No reason
    to have any stockpile of DDR3. I can't even get a USB3 card in there now.
    But I can have a $500 router if I want :-/ Staples has more computer
    monitors, than my computer store!

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 23 13:55:45 2023
    I tried something different, I put a new unused SD card in the USB adaptor
    and created a WinPE10 and then restarted the 780 an hit F12 and selected
    USB Device and it worked!!

    https://postimg.cc/56ppXWzL

    https://postimg.cc/dkMjbsMP

    https://postimg.cc/ThNJxJvJ

    https://postimg.cc/SXGcvWG8

    https://postimg.cc/pyrKs55h

    https://postimg.cc/tYVWj059

    https://postimg.cc/ygbgMn3J

    https://postimg.cc/rdyDz7S0

    https://postimg.cc/FkSR2vQq

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 23 13:23:15 2023
    Where would I type profiles.ini ?

    I have no complaints,. everything looks OK

    The only problem is the 780 can't post. Also
    on the 780 Keyboard the L doesn't function
    or the number pad because I spilled coffee
    on it awhile back. Luckily I have a number
    of keyboards so replaced it with one of those
    but that one the colon : doesn't work so I used
    the 8500 keyboard to do the about:profiles on
    the 780 then switched them back.

    I checked into buying another Keyboard and
    I found a few under $100 but the prices have
    really gone up on some of these Microsoft 4000
    keyboards.

    Since were talking about bookmarks, can I move
    my bookmarks from Win 7 to Win 10? Can I also
    move My Documents from Win 7 to Win 10?
    Basically, the same thing we just did to the 780.

    I have tried repeatedly to post from the 780 and it
    still fails with missing operating system.

    As a matter Of fact I had some spare RAM but it
    was from the 8200:

    https://postimg.cc/pm9Nd4zq

    Here's my hd's

    https://postimg.cc/fk51fDv8

    https://postimg.cc/kBpZLsz8

    https://postimg.cc/cghkhBfv

    https://postimg.cc/qNKmST8V

    https://postimg.cc/14TrQdR9

    https://postimg.cc/DWB1YjY3

    external hd's

    https://postimg.cc/qty2pBR0

    and here's my PSU's

    https://postimg.cc/vgXgm4dR

    I tried to buy the RAM on Amazon and you
    wouldn't believe the hassle I went through
    just to log in. I had to call them twice because
    the first guy hung up on me. They said there's
    a problem with my account and that they need
    to resolve it and will contact me. In the meantime
    I have the RAM hanging in the cart that I can't access.

    See what I mean, ?

    I'm thinking of looking on eBay for it.

    Computers are like cars, they come out with a new
    model or OS every year whether good or not, some
    are classics. I like to feel I have classics with the Win 7
    Pro and the Dell's have been very reliable with Seagate
    hd's.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 23 14:20:17 2023
    I have tried repeatedly to post from the 780 and it
    still fails with missing operating system.

    Of course, I meant whenever I try to point I get the
    Capcha and check it but I don't get the cancel/ continue
    option. I try every day with the same result.

    The 780 has posted before so its not like a new computer
    but for some reason it can't post to google groups anymore.
    That's why its so important because if I have a problem
    with the 8500 I wont be able to contact you.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 23 14:28:01 2023
    I have tried repeatedly to post from the 780 and it
    still fails with missing operating system.

    Of course, I meant whenever I try to post I get the
    Capcha and check it but I don't get the cancel/ continue
    option. I try every day with the same result.

    The 780 has posted before so its not like a new computer
    but for some reason it can't post to google groups anymore.
    That's why its so important because if I have a problem
    with the 8500 I wont be able to contact you.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 23 15:51:39 2023
    Since as you say DDR3 RAM is so hard to find.I'll
    wait and hope that Amazon can sort my account out
    so that I can purchase the RAM. It's already in the
    cart.
    In the meantime, just to be sure I checked out some
    RAM on ebay:

    What do you think of these?

    Corsair Vengeance :

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/204496570723?epid=132878746&hash=item2f9cf20963%3Ag%3AXCoAAOSwDjxlJuU6&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8OuVmekIhr96yLmC5tUojH69SoMEZELu98ReT9kGL5e2yFfGId%2Fz2dHoVydWzh68eMWYq8KKdk5QmwNaIVOpo%2FqBvZf9LkH6jXPCdb2QAHQIQsjuPjewIoFYF5SNTijXZUh%
    2FdmVh3RTEqta1bL7jQ28nVjJlgfoDBiunuVJWyLsSqUaDVzc3AQrn2r2JRvE%2F4JfdTlToPBejPjyo5BvMa13XmvUcJzF9GVegrWTzdJD%2Bz%2BOuUvWMMWxIEkw1phwMLYN4RM%2BjyHixz0PQHyjNOt3FfjUXMNg4m2EdXfzmwUMMgYllpAtWvF1jhpDaO4n4aw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6qNuOj_Yg&LH_ItemCondition=3


    Crucial:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/204490032373?hash=item2f9c8e44f5:g:Th8AAOSwEGFlIakl&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8PSeGEWNyswSSGZY1Zdz2h8QpaWzD4Z7ncWR38lZde2xH6LyR2dNP3IPDU6NDwbcy2Ko%2BQ3spDhrElioqab4evQtWp22YEANhCfRgcu1UWMRpnYIdjSfRear%2F%
    2FExxsrtMcPTV7cQzoIYayHKwhD1CMUM6CQ0NgWJg6TkMVThRiBL0keGvMsqUXVYPIzksxzQQp8nkr7PtL%2BJr6gvxwZg6W5zFE1aI%2B1L8yvLIQF9IPKXXM2Ur9i8h3mfOUm0ArlFUHs2Hd3ZyArBmAdwsIYJyFsKMV8GLXkJk1XgGofzYDkWweGWn%2BuQQPvNpSeHitxmZQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7LN1uj_Yg

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/386290610640?hash=item59f0b6f1d0:g:9BAAAOSwpB5lP2kM&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAH7sJtNKwndx9AuvFHHoS3nPN%2BIiFijZMLnPPc5QgXpUIBBXciXPEmgA%2BRYrOZv5o1aR1xS2E25OovUQLlDtcmcSvxF9fWoj8ehViaGV3pPo0IzpAGxUSe%2FVkjRP0CE9ExJY39wn6yaXMwg%
    2BVZRPjRbeiCDv1o6wBK7M5RofcFDHIcLasLy2%2BIx3f86%2BJ5lo36ADKuyoQyScUOGlvAf39Ir6DfvuXFxZubf2MsmEbIZxgyZPfDxILtJtsfPMUDzkRUwf6hh8PoqG0hYej2UKKLPhAuAh2iy28GWsWU3Ku73KSu%2Byhsgi3870wqgmC0ox5nJitDMJxU8NrQJHZLGVOHo%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMsM3W6P9i




    This has nothing to do with the 8500 or 780 but I was
    just curious about someday of maybe hooking the 8200
    back up and see if it would run? I boxed it still running
    after all the upgrades we made to it.

    Although it doesn't have mrimg capability. I have all the
    original cd's that came with it.

    In fact, that's how the mrimgs came about because I
    remember having to rebuild the entire system a few times
    with your good help and had hundreds of updates we had
    to do through. I didn't want to go through that again so
    now I have the mrimgs.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 23 19:14:33 2023
    OK, this is scary,,... I just got an IE pop-up display window for IE11
    on the 780.

    From what we've discussed and since the 8500 didn't respond when I
    clicked the iexplorer.exe I assume everything is OK but I'm going to
    disconnect the ethernet cable and then use the recommended settings
    then I'll click OK and hope for the best. I'' take pics as I go.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 23 19:39:22 2023
    I just realized I forgot to disconnect the ethernet cable before
    I clicked OK but since nothing happened, I assume I'm OK?

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 23 19:35:41 2023
    I had just run SuperAntispyware on the 780 and
    that seems to trigger the pop-up display because
    it did the same thing on the 8500 last time I ran it.

    In fact, its running now on the 8500.

    So here I go on the 780 and lets hope for the best.
    I clicked OK but nothing happened afterward and
    the dialog box closed.

    https://postimg.cc/Czb5YhbF

    I tried posting from the 780 afterwards but again it
    failed.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Nov 24 17:14:26 2023
    This is just a test to make sure the 8500
    is OK.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Nov 24 21:18:51 2023
    I think instead of waiting or dealing with Amazon
    I would just rather order through ebay. After waiting
    all that time and Newegg not delivering and not being
    able to login to Amazon. It's not worth it.

    So far Amazon hasn't sent me any emails but if I
    finally do gain access I'll just delete the RAM in
    the cart and not deal with them anymore.

    I'd like your opinion on which one you'd recommend?

    Corsair Vengeance: new in the box

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/204496570723?epid=132878746&hash=item2f9cf20963%3Ag%3AXCoAAOSwDjxlJuU6&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABEEPluTrDAAnLpbkzWSTRY1GfJ1axRsAdLNVoZgP1yT82otYITXK7O1%2FzOgtZfFgS7TXbmPYITUyHxmzjFBdrALK%
    2F8zmx2u9hjd1i82gZuWb2W0t75j0QpDadxPgXoMu6055a7GCAOvsMLOa4Nlp2HrxOlb9DkJ187iceOTr5WNl46g%2BfRiPlspPcD8LZnfGxHXZ50tS%2F6UNyIiRAnc6%
    2FpZxYwDm9Jk5CZ4ZXKJBUmetLvQAMI7vJMIKagLp53hJ2RPjSrkG7umPrCzdNlhNHKZhNS16O7N3FDCK4QOZ0kd46o0GSy0WwJ9RVPLmyy0gtgUoblZrGzd3Ue4jIJdvtWanyWaPab9yIwGVgI1V%2FHPhF%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_Dz0ceAYw&LH_ItemCondition=3

    Crucial: this is is little higher priced but it a sealed package.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/166362438304?epid=215888583&hash=item26bbf95aa0%3Ag%3A72MAAOSwiWhghOuB&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8Fj6qWeJb1Gu%2F%2BtIGqOl7anjSsx%2FuXB0s2iHKL2FmDsltqxqexer6Vf1UFEzlTmRG7fOeR43kaHtvpNQJaarXfDkyCpLBG0dyEZ%2FC4%
    2FYz2oJuArHAwyreQ7UFTP0jUC5KVBzsAGX3JSwEvGzncbraQz7DScICAFSXsJQansfjsiO80KlUjz%2BIgVzji2JO5Vi1z41qLsmibsgpaBztojtQP1Aw5VGiWQ3iJYwsDzj31K1NN6PJ%2F%2B%2BfcwYP0JM8Tj60T1o7vmu%2BO3EsXcnxfw3C%2FwKBaSjfOYrnvec4fgIfVb%2BUFHyRIFiI08t0gU%2B5OcomQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%
    3ABk9SR9rH-ceAYw&LH_ItemCondition=3


    I also switched to a third keyboard I had on and 780 where
    everything works.

    Once we get the RAM I can install it and the PCI card and run
    the mini disk that came with it, then the memtest86.

    Robert
    Thanks,
    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Nov 25 16:25:41 2023
    I went ahead and bought the Corsair Vengeance RAM.
    I checked and they are suppose to be very fast and good
    and have the same warranty as Crucial and was allot cheaper.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/204496570723?epid=132878746&hash=item2f9cf20963%3Ag%3AXCoAAOSwDjxlJuU6&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABEEPluTrDAAnLpbkzWSTRY1GfJ1axRsAdLNVoZgP1yT82otYITXK7O1%2FzOgtZfFgS7TXbmPYITUyHxmzjFBdrALK%
    2F8zmx2u9hjd1i82gZuWb2W0t75j0QpDadxPgXoMu6055a7GCAOvsMLOa4Nlp2HrxOlb9DkJ187iceOTr5WNl46g%2BfRiPlspPcD8LZnfGxHXZ50tS%2F6UNyIiRAnc6%
    2FpZxYwDm9Jk5CZ4ZXKJBUmetLvQAMI7vJMIKagLp53hJ2RPjSrkG7umPrCzdNlhNHKZhNS16O7N3FDCK4QOZ0kd46o0GSy0WwJ9RVPLmyy0gtgUoblZrGzd3Ue4jIJdvtWanyWaPab9yIwGVgI1V%2FHPhF%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_Dz0ceAYw&LH_ItemCondition=3

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Nov 26 16:31:14 2023
    I have a problem...

    I was trying to create a PE10 Rescue CD for the 8500
    using an old CD-RW I had and during the process it had
    to be cleaned. This time it required a download unlike the
    others but it said it finished successfully, so I restarted
    the computer but it never gave me the F12 prompt and
    went straight to the MBR .

    So how do I restore it? so it gives me my F12 prompt back?
    Should I try System Restore? Would the SD card with PE10
    I made for the 780 work on the 8500?

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Nov 26 22:23:16 2023
    Here's where we are:

    The 780 is still waiting for the RAM,
    this is my 3rd attempt in trying to buy it
    after Newegg couldn't find my address
    and I couldn't and still can't logon to
    Amazon.

    I have the PCI card with 3.0 port and
    will install both once I receive the RAM.
    Hopefully there won't be any hitch's this
    time and the RAM will be OK. Then I'll
    run the mini disk and then the memtest
    and of course take pics and keep you posted
    to my progress.

    With regards to the 8500 I thought creating
    the PE10 was a bit unusual than the other Rescue
    CD's I've made because it had to clean the CD and
    it couldn't find the WIM file so it had to search
    then download it. However it said it finished
    successfully. It was when I restarted it that I
    noticed it was missing the F12 prompt screen
    and went directly to the Windows Boot Manager
    screen.

    I restarted it again to verify it was gone and sure
    enough it skips right to the WBM screen.
    Somehow in creating the PE10 for the 8500 it
    screwed it up so my F12 screen disappeared.
    Can we get it back?

    I haven't done anything because I didn't want to
    make things worst. I did manage to access the F12
    option by pressing F12 as soon as the screen went
    black so we should be able to do a mrimg restore but
    I thought you might have another solution?

    I thought of System Restore but it probably wouldn't
    be enough to correct the problem but a mrimg restore
    should be able to if all else fails. I mean that's the whole
    point in having them.

    I ordered new Verbatim CD-RW's so I don't have any
    more problems like this. I'll also order more SD card
    and some Patriot sticks. How you seen their new models?
    They even have some with 1TB now!

    Now even my TV remote is going out on me, *L* so will go
    looking for a universal remote tomorrow at Walmart.



    thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Nov 28 20:57:25 2023
    On 11/26/2023 7:31 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I have a problem...

    I was trying to create a PE10 Rescue CD for the 8500
    using an old CD-RW I had and during the process it had
    to be cleaned. This time it required a download unlike the
    others but it said it finished successfully, so I restarted
    the computer but it never gave me the F12 prompt and
    went straight to the MBR .

    So how do I restore it? so it gives me my F12 prompt back?
    Should I try System Restore? Would the SD card with PE10
    I made for the 780 work on the 8500?

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert


    If the XPS 8500 has a UEFI BIOS, it is possible for an OS application
    to adjust it, without the user entering the BIOS to do it.

    On Linux, this is called "efibootmgr" and I think it can make adjustments.

    As far as I know, there is more than one model-year of the XPS 8500.

    Around PDF page 120, is "System Setup Options"

    https://dl.dell.com/manuals/all-products/esuprt_desktop/esuprt_xps_desktop/xps-8500_owner%27s%20manual_en-us.pdf

    Boot Mode Legacy or UEFI (Legacy by default) # This should not normally need adjustment
    # If a device is hybrid, either setting would work.
    # I don't even know of a utility to identify the config (boot type)

    1st Boot Device USB Storage \
    2nd Boot Device ODD Device (CDROM) \___ This is a sample ordering
    3rd Boot Device Internal HDD /
    4th Boot Device (Disabled)
    5th Boot Device (Disabled) <=== network boot (PXE) would be useless for most people

    Windows 7 does not have Fast Start, so the OS cannot steal away
    control from your BIOS choices.

    The machine will appear out of control, if the keyboard is not working.
    We have been through this exercise before.

    I do not know of a good way to prove the keyboard really works.
    The shift lock may cause a shift-lock LED to light, as a toggle test.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Nov 28 21:32:51 2023
    On 11/23/2023 10:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I just realized I forgot to disconnect the ethernet cable before
    I clicked OK but since nothing happened, I assume I'm OK?

    Robert


    If nothing happened, no browser window opened, then you're OK.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Nov 28 21:36:03 2023
    On 11/23/2023 10:35 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I had just run SuperAntispyware on the 780 and
    that seems to trigger the pop-up display because
    it did the same thing on the 8500 last time I ran it.

    In fact, its running now on the 8500.

    So here I go on the 780 and lets hope for the best.
    I clicked OK but nothing happened afterward and
    the dialog box closed.

    https://postimg.cc/Czb5YhbF

    I tried posting from the 780 afterwards but again it
    failed.

    Robert


    As long as you're using a modern version of Firefox,
    there is not much else I can suggest. 115ESR is all
    that's left for Windows 7.

    And the thing is, when you go to post, you're already
    "logged into Google", which means their cookie is set
    and everything. There isn't any other authentication
    I can think of for that which would help.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 28 23:44:40 2023
    I went to page 120 but when it says look for the F2
    prompt don't they mean F12 because I don't get a F2?
    I'm not seeing the F12 boot options screen on the 8500.
    and page 120 just shows what I should have not instructions.

    I don't even know if the 8500 has UEFI to use vs BIOS?
    It seems your suggesting I change the boot order?
    but how does that fix the 8500 F12 not showing
    problem? I'm not following you here,...

    Are you trying to fix the boot order on the 8500 so I
    don't have to press F12? We tried before and it wouldn't
    accept the changes we made and doing F12 on the 8500
    isn't a big deal. It's the 780 that's a pain in the ass to use
    the F12 option and detects the cd-d's normally so I don't
    like using the F12 option on it.

    However to test the new 3.0 port I will use it the next time I
    do mrimgs.

    I don't have a good memory so when you say we've
    been through this before I don't remember it honesty.
    If I'm not doing something everyday I forget it and this
    is all technical which I have a hard time remembering.
    and I never was good at math.

    I remember I had to switch keyboards awhile back
    which is why I bought a new generic one which is what
    the 780 is now using but I don't remember the circumstances.
    Is that what you're referring to? Anyway the problem isn't
    the keyboards.

    You've lost me ,.. I'm trying to understand. All I want
    is to get the 8500 back to normal where the F12 boot
    options screen shows again. Then I can make a WinPE10
    Rescue disk using the new Verbatim CD-RW's. Isn't there
    some way of bringing back the F12 boot options screen?

    I was going to try a System Restore first, and if that
    didn't work then I was going to try a mrimg restore.

    The RAM should be here Friday and then I'll install it
    and the PCI card with the mini disk and do the memtest.

    I found out later that the Corsair once sold for $90 and
    when I checked again it was $65 on eBay. I bought mine
    for $30 new in the box. I just hope this time everything is
    OK.

    I checked the height also but it shouldn't be a problem
    the slots are away from everything else and more than
    enough clearance. I was more concerned about if I had
    enough clearance for the flaring but it should be OK.

    So the 780 is screwed as far as posting to Google? Do
    you think at some point it might change?

    In passing,.. my TV remote stopped working so I went
    and bought a universal remote. I tried all the codes they
    gave and none worked. So then I tried the auto mode and
    it found one that turned it off but wouldn't turn it back on.
    I managed to get the TV turned back on with the old remote
    then just unplugged it.
    You'd think they would make tv's with a on/off button.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Nov 29 02:06:13 2023
    Isn't there a set of CMD line instructions you can
    give me to bring the 'F12 boot options' screen back?

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Nov 29 21:35:49 2023
    The RAM came today and I installed it but not at the
    white slots at the bottom but the black slots at the top.
    I also installed the PCI card but couldn't find anywhere
    to plug in the molex cable for power?

    https://postimg.cc/GTBRdbXr

    https://postimg.cc/TyWYTYS0

    https://postimg.cc/jCwh2DBY

    The 780 detected the additional RAM but I just hit f1
    to continue and all is well. I noticed immediately that
    the 780 is much faster and responsive than before. It's
    more like the 8500 with the same amount of RAM.

    I started to run the mini disk but it gave me this so I cancelled
    it especially since it isn't connected to a power source.

    https://postimg.cc/D8JtPfDq

    I ran the memtest86

    https://postimg.cc/XGx0m2cd

    I tried posting but again it failed.

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Nov 30 03:17:31 2023
    On 11/29/2023 5:06 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Isn't there a set of CMD line instructions you can
    give me to bring the 'F12 boot options' screen back?

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert


    That would be a BIOS function.

    It might be possible, from within the BIOS setup screen (F2),
    to disable the F12 function. You might have a look around
    in there, and see if such a thing exists.

    I don't think my machines, have a control like that.

    What should not get disabled, is the button to access the BIOS.
    F2 in this case. F2 can still be protected via a password prompt,
    and you can lock down F2 that way (you can press the key if you
    want, but the machine can have a password set to prevent anything
    good from happening).

    It's because of the security features of business class machines,
    you don't want them in a public area, unless all the security features
    are enabled. It's because people can play jokes, such as set a
    password on a machine where the password was not set, and then
    the user has no clue what the password is.

    But your machine and my machine, don't have those set, and so
    whatever our "entry" key is (like F2), we can still use that
    and then check the settings for evidence the other key is
    turned off.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 30 02:52:24 2023
    I restarted the 8500 and when the screen
    went black I hit F2 and was able to access
    the BIOS :

    https://postimg.cc/Z0yN8YXh

    https://postimg.cc/p5xP5Bgr

    https://postimg.cc/K1djvtvk

    https://postimg.cc/vcKH35nq

    https://postimg.cc/1nWZ4ZcC

    https://postimg.cc/YhWJBFVy

    https://postimg.cc/w1zbKGD

    How would I leave if I made changes if any
    and save them?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 30 03:19:41 2023
    OIC, picture 6 answered my question.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 30 15:45:04 2023
    Here's a better pic of the installed RAM and PCI card:

    https://postimg.cc/xcvwspd1

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Dec 2 14:50:01 2023
    I did my mrimg backup on the 780 with PE10.
    Luckily, I had made a WinPE10 Rescue CD so I
    used that. I had been using PE 5.0 for both computers.
    Now the 780 has PE10 but the 8500 is still on PE 5.0
    and it has 3.0 ports so could benefit from PE10.

    However, until we can fix the 'F12 boot options' screen
    problem I can't make a clean Rescue CD or mrimg on
    the 8500 so I'm stuck. I mean I could but it would be
    tainted like with a virus or malware. I only want clean
    mrimgs not ones with issues.

    So how do I get my F12 back? Did the F2 pics I provided
    help?

    If all else fails,, can a mrimg restore fix the F12 problem?

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Dec 4 18:09:22 2023
    Here's my F2 pics:

    https://postimg.cc/Z0yN8YXh

    https://postimg.cc/p5xP5Bgr

    https://postimg.cc/K1djvtvk

    https://postimg.cc/vcKH35nq

    https://postimg.cc/1nWZ4ZcC

    https://postimg.cc/YhWJBFVy

    https://postimg.cc/w1zbKGD


    Are you saying there's no way to fix this?

    The problem isn't timing to click wehn the F12 appears
    the problem is that the F12 boot option screen is gone.

    I'm use to the F12 boot options screen and it's just as you
    say It's only there for a second but I don;t ever remember
    seeing an F2?

    However, I can still access F2 and F12 when the screen
    goes black but this isn't normal. I would like to get my F12
    boot options screen back if possible.

    Would a mrimg restore fix the problem and bring back the
    F12 screen?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Dec 4 20:31:43 2023
    On 12/2/2023 5:50 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I did my mrimg backup on the 780 with PE10.
    Luckily, I had made a WinPE10 Rescue CD so I
    used that. I had been using PE 5.0 for both computers.
    Now the 780 has PE10 but the 8500 is still on PE 5.0
    and it has 3.0 ports so could benefit from PE10.

    However, until we can fix the 'F12 boot options' screen
    problem I can't make a clean Rescue CD or mrimg on
    the 8500 so I'm stuck. I mean I could but it would be
    tainted like with a virus or malware. I only want clean
    mrimgs not ones with issues.

    So how do I get my F12 back? Did the F2 pics I provided
    help?

    If all else fails,, can a mrimg restore fix the F12 problem?

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    When you enter the BIOS with F2, there *may* be a setting
    in there which switches off F12. I can't find any video with
    a review of BIOS screens, sufficient for the job.

    But generally, if I look through Google, there are a lot of
    cases where "something" is not working on their XPS 8500.

    For some people, it's the same problem you've seen. There is a
    brand dependency on the keyboard. While it may be an Fn key
    that needs to be pressed before pressing F2 (Enter BIOS) or
    F12 (popup boot menu), in a lot of cases, the BIOS does not even
    show the usual animation at POST. Then, the progress bar is not
    seen, and you can't really "time" when you press the keyboard,
    because it all happens so fast.

    On my laptop, the window to press F2 is only *one second wide*.
    It takes me a multitude of attempts, before I get the
    timing... just right. Dell is not usually that tight, and
    the timing allows maybe 5 seconds or so.

    But as for fixing it, nobody seems to be able to root-cause,
    what a shortened BIOS POST means. Why does the animation disappear ?
    While some BIOS have "Fast Boot" (not to be confused with "Fast Start"
    from within Windows 10), I don't think such a thing totally locks
    the user out of BIOS interaction.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Dec 5 00:24:20 2023
    On 12/4/2023 9:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Here's my F2 pics:

    https://postimg.cc/Z0yN8YXh

    https://postimg.cc/p5xP5Bgr

    https://postimg.cc/K1djvtvk

    https://postimg.cc/vcKH35nq

    https://postimg.cc/1nWZ4ZcC

    https://postimg.cc/YhWJBFVy

    https://postimg.cc/w1zbKGD


    Are you saying there's no way to fix this?

    The problem isn't timing to click wehn the F12 appears
    the problem is that the F12 boot option screen is gone.

    I'm use to the F12 boot options screen and it's just as you
    say It's only there for a second but I don;t ever remember
    seeing an F2?

    However, I can still access F2 and F12 when the screen
    goes black but this isn't normal. I would like to get my F12
    boot options screen back if possible.

    Would a mrimg restore fix the problem and bring back the
    F12 screen?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    On the Optiplex 780, the control for F12 is in

    Post behavior : Post Hotkeys

    in the F2 BIOS screen. I cannot find info for the XPS 8500.

    *******

    Looking at your pictures, the BIOS designs are quite different.

    The Optiplex is a "Dell" BIOS.

    The XPS 8500 is an APTIO BIOS (commercial BIOS for consumer desktops).

    On the Optiplex, the purpose of turning off F12, is to prevent
    subversion of the OS by a "visitor to the server room". Entry into
    the 780 BIOS, can be password protected. Press F2, you would be
    greeted by a request for a password. Without a password, you cannot
    modify the BIOS. If the operator turns off F12, and F2 is password protected, then the "visitor to the server room", cannot make the machine boot
    from his CD. Not until, at a minimum, entering some password.

    The XPS 8500, your pictures hint that no control like that is present.
    Not only is it an APTIO BIOs, it is a "stripped down" APTIO BIOS.

    Of your first six pictures (one per main menu item), I don't see anything
    that looks like F12 is hiding in there.

    I could not see your seventh link, because the URL looks like a character
    fell off the end of it. It is missing a character.

    *******

    Normally, when a BIOS starts, it prints on the screen, the value of the
    two keys. The F2 and F12 for example. You can try pressing the "Break" key
    when you see that graphic, and pressing "Break" is normally supposed to
    stop BIOS IO while you think. Pressing "Break" a second time, allows the
    BIOS to continue what it was doing.

    I can find lots of references to people having trouble with BIOS interface,
    but nobody has a "guaranteed" solution. One of the sources of problems,
    is Microsoft keyboards. But in other cases, it seemed to be a corrupted
    BIOS setting somewhere. And that was about it, for root causes.

    It must have worked at one time.

    I hesitate to tell you to reset the BIOS ("clear CMOS"), because
    then with a machine like that, we're taking a risk it will go off
    on an adventure.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Dec 5 03:19:02 2023
    I couldn't see anything about F12 either when I checked the BIOS
    I tried to checking online also but couldn't find anything related to
    my problem.

    The seventh picture was just a exit from F2

    https://postimg.cc/s13Ddqn0

    When you say a stripped down APTIO does that mean lack of options?

    Well the problem now is there is no F12 to even try pressing the pause/brake key.

    What about doing a mrimg restore? Would that fix it? or do you feel we
    should leave well enough alone. Like you said, we don't want to go on any adventures with the 8500 and it does work and I can access F2 and F12
    if need be. I don't want to make things worst, especially since the 780
    can't post but I just would like to know if a mrimg could do it or not.

    Should I make a WinPE10 Rescue CD for the 8500? and then proceed with a
    mrimg?

    Aside from the F12 problem and the 780 not being able to post both computers work quite well and the 780 really benefited from the increase RAM and I assume the 8500 would benefit from the PE10 with the 3.0 driver.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Dec 5 15:02:00 2023
    I was a bit leery of doing this because the last time I tried it, it
    screwed up the 8500 but I have new CD-RW disks so I made
    a WinPE10 Rescue CD on the 8500 and it completed successfully.

    However when I tried to run it afterward, I pressed F12 to select
    CD and all was fine but it wouldn't let me use my up/down arrows
    to select the CD player. I tried the arrows on the number pad as well
    and nothing.

    So I switched the keyboard with the 780 and still nothing but when
    I switched my 8500 keyboard back it worked?! what the hell ??? I
    don't get it? Why didn't it work before? See what I mean?

    I don't want to have to go through this every time I make a mrimg.
    The 8500 definitely doesn't like PE10 and this was a new CD-RW I
    used but then the problem moved to the keyboard when all was fine.
    I may just stick with PE5.0 on the 8500. I didn't have these problems with it.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Dec 6 02:05:03 2023
    Summary:

    • We transferred My Bookmarks and My Documents
    to the 780 and installed Word and Excel.
    • we added 8GB of Corsair RAM giving it 12GB total the same as the 8500 • I created a WinPE10 SD-card used with USB adapter and also a PE10
    Rescue CD for the 780
    • We went through IE11 on both computers
    • I created a WinPE10 CD on the 8500 which caused the F12 boot options
    screen to disappear and the second time it messed up my keyboard.
    So I'm not using PE10 on the 8500 anymore. It doesn't like it.
    • I completed a PE 5.0, V7.2.3906, 64 bit mrimg on the 8500


    It looks like we may be done,.. I'll leave the 8500 as is and won't mess
    with it and continue to do the mrimgs. I still have the Win 10 hd's we
    made.

    However, I still would like to know if I needed to use the mrimg restore
    would it fix my problems?. I'd just like to know in case we loose contact
    and my situation changes.

    I hope this isn't the last time we talk

    Many thanks for all your good help,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Dec 6 22:06:36 2023



    I hope you saw my last posts but just in case here's a
    repeat of the summary:

    Summary:

    • We transferred My Bookmarks and My Documents
    to the 780 and installed Word and Excel.
    • we added 8GB of Corsair RAM giving it 12GB total the
    same as the 8500. I also installed a PCI card with 3.0 ports
    but it didn't have any place to plug in the molex cable so I
    left it as is.
    • I created a WinPE10 SD-card used with the USB adapter
    you helped me pick out and also a PE10 Rescue CD for the 780
    • We went through IE11 on both computers
    • I created a WinPE10 CD on the 8500 which caused the F12
    boot options screen to disappear and the second time with a
    new CD-RW it messed up my keyboard. So I'm not using
    PE10 on the 8500 anymore. It doesn't like it.
    • I completed a PE 5.0, V7.2.3906, 64 bit mrimg on the 8500

    In your last message it appears you hadn't seen my
    previous posts which included the F2 pics because you
    didn't mention them so I included them again in my
    reply to you.

    It's just as you said it would be awhile back where
    the 780 can't post anymore where it use to be able to
    and even when I post on the 8500 you can't see half
    my posts and maybe I'm not seeing yours? So it's very
    iffy now.

    I'm kind of puzzled about the 8500's stripped down
    APTIO BIOS. I bought it new although it was a custom
    order with the 12GB of RAM but I would have thought
    they would of put a Dell BIOS in and not a generic
    stripped down BIOS?

    Is there anything else I should do at this point or
    anything you recommend?

    Is there a Windows 10 reference book that you would
    recommend?

    Both computers are running well and I assure you I won't
    mess with the 8500 or 780 from this point. They are both
    humming along nicely. I will continue to make monthly
    mrimgs and hopefully no problems will pop-up but if so,
    I'll try contacting you.

    Many thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Dec 7 03:50:51 2023
    On 12/7/2023 1:06 AM, Robert in CA wrote:



    I hope you saw my last posts but just in case here's a
    repeat of the summary:

    Summary:

    • We transferred My Bookmarks and My Documents
    to the 780 and installed Word and Excel.
    • we added 8GB of Corsair RAM giving it 12GB total the
    same as the 8500. I also installed a PCI card with 3.0 ports
    but it didn't have any place to plug in the molex cable so I
    left it as is.
    • I created a WinPE10 SD-card used with the USB adapter
    you helped me pick out and also a PE10 Rescue CD for the 780
    • We went through IE11 on both computers
    • I created a WinPE10 CD on the 8500 which caused the F12
    boot options screen to disappear and the second time with a
    new CD-RW it messed up my keyboard. So I'm not using
    PE10 on the 8500 anymore. It doesn't like it.
    • I completed a PE 5.0, V7.2.3906, 64 bit mrimg on the 8500

    In your last message it appears you hadn't seen my
    previous posts which included the F2 pics because you
    didn't mention them so I included them again in my
    reply to you.

    It's just as you said it would be awhile back where
    the 780 can't post anymore where it use to be able to
    and even when I post on the 8500 you can't see half
    my posts and maybe I'm not seeing yours? So it's very
    iffy now.

    I'm kind of puzzled about the 8500's stripped down
    APTIO BIOS. I bought it new although it was a custom
    order with the 12GB of RAM but I would have thought
    they would of put a Dell BIOS in and not a generic
    stripped down BIOS?

    Is there anything else I should do at this point or
    anything you recommend?

    Is there a Windows 10 reference book that you would
    recommend?

    Both computers are running well and I assure you I won't
    mess with the 8500 or 780 from this point. They are both
    humming along nicely. I will continue to make monthly
    mrimgs and hopefully no problems will pop-up but if so,
    I'll try contacting you.

    Many thanks,
    Robert


    Yesterday, I was out for part of the day, and didn't have
    a chance to read posts until later.

    It sounds like you've got things squared away OK. I don't
    know why the 8500 doesn't like the media. Maybe it has something
    to do with the UEFI it understands, but that's only a guess. I
    don't have trouble really, with any of the Macrium media here.

    It's OK for manufacturers to use a third-party platform. That's
    why there are maybe four or five companies that make BIOS for the
    rest of the industry. And "turning on" more or less settings,
    is what the BIOS developers at places like Dell do, when they use
    a product like APTIO.

    Dell uses their own BIOS for the server side of the business, for
    uniformity and for security design. For the consumer side, like
    a lot of other companies, they are happy to use a framework (like
    an APTIO) and the provided bring-up code, to speed up the
    development process.

    My Acer laptop for example, uses an Insyde BIOS, which at the time
    I'd never heard of, but it's been used elsewhere so isn't entirely
    obscure.

    Your USB card, you shouldn't need the Molex auxiliary power, unless
    the USB loading is large. The slot connector on the card, the PCI Express,
    it has 3.3V and 12V power. Whereas the USB uses 5V. That means the
    card design needs a small switching regulator, to convert 12V to 5V.
    The switcher cannot produce an infinite amount of power, and
    presumably on an overload, it would switch off.

    The Molex plug on the other hand, has +5V and +12V. and the +5V
    can have up to 20 amperes. But I don't know how the card power
    architecture, switches between onboard SMPS and current from the
    Molex 5V rail.

    All I can tell you, is I've never needed to use the aux power cable
    on mine. But I also don't have a very large set of test peripherals,
    and for example, something like a USB to NVMe tray could draw a lot
    of power. There were initially some of those on Aliexpress, but
    I haven't run into any USENETters who have a sample, to ask them
    any questions about it.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Dec 7 03:49:26 2023
    On 12/5/2023 6:02 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I was a bit leery of doing this because the last time I tried it, it
    screwed up the 8500 but I have new CD-RW disks so I made
    a WinPE10 Rescue CD on the 8500 and it completed successfully.

    However when I tried to run it afterward, I pressed F12 to select
    CD and all was fine but it wouldn't let me use my up/down arrows
    to select the CD player. I tried the arrows on the number pad as well
    and nothing.

    So I switched the keyboard with the 780 and still nothing but when
    I switched my 8500 keyboard back it worked?! what the hell ??? I
    don't get it? Why didn't it work before? See what I mean?

    I don't want to have to go through this every time I make a mrimg.
    The 8500 definitely doesn't like PE10 and this was a new CD-RW I
    used but then the problem moved to the keyboard when all was fine.
    I may just stick with PE5.0 on the 8500. I didn't have these problems with it.

    Robert

    Every subsystem that tries to parse keyboards, only has a limited
    set of "models" for keyboard design. Windows for example, understands
    three keycounts of keyboards. Likely a full sized keyboard, a compact
    (without numpad perhaps). I don't know what the third one is.

    Presumably a BIOS has some models for keyboard types as well.

    I don't really know anything about the "keyboard path". At one time,
    there was some sort of auxiliary processor model, for interfacing to
    a keyboard, but whether that is used or needed for USB keyboards,
    I don't know the details. The info here

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_MCS-48

    The original IBM PC keyboard used an 8048 as its internal microcontroller.[7]

    https://wiki.osdev.org/%228042%22_PS/2_Controller

    There is mention on that second link, of USB Legacy support, which
    I think could push single characters into the PS/2 controller
    registers or something, making the rest of the machine think
    your USB keyboard, was "talking via the PS/2 port".

    "The original IBM-PC keyboards (using the old XT interface) used "scan code set 1""

    And it's at that point, my eyes start to glaze over :-)

    I don't know why it would ignore arrow keys, unless somehow the keycodes produced are foreign in some way. And no keyboard maker can afford
    to be "non-compliant". Or you would be seeing issues at OS level,
    with the keyboard. That stuff in the BIOS, is basically 40 years old.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Dec 7 12:38:50 2023
    I remember we had keyboard problems before and I
    used a standard non- eronomic keyboard that came with
    the 8500 I believe that got us through the problem.
    Unfortunately, I don't have that keyboard anymore which
    is why I bought the standard Microsoft ergonomic keyboard
    and now is on the 780. I usually use Microsoft 4000
    ergonomic keyboards.

    My eyes have glazed over many times *L* At any rate I
    was able to get it to boot Macrium but the 8500 definitely
    doesn't like PE10 for whatever reason. So I'm sticking with
    the PE 5.0

    So the APTIO BIOS is OK,... just a another customer BIOS
    that Dell uses for it's customer base.

    I just tried plugging in a Patriot stick to the 3.0 port on the
    780 and nothing happened. Do I have to remove the molex
    cable? I wouldn't think so since it's not connected to anything.

    I used PE10 on the 780 because we wanted it for the 3.0 driver
    but one thing I don't like about PE10 is it takes forever to load.
    I'm thinking of going back to PE 5.0 on both computers because
    I didn't have any problems with it.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Dec 7 16:11:30 2023
    I forgot to run the mini disk on the 780 because I thought
    I needed to connect the molex for it to work. So I put the
    mini-disk in and this is what it gave me:

    https://postimg.cc/PpRCZ4Tr

    https://postimg.cc/Hr9j3HdN

    I tried the Patriot stick afterwards and still nothing.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Dec 9 17:38:38 2023
    I'm re-posting my last message in case you didn't see it

    I forgot to run the mini disk on the 780 because I thought
    I needed to connect the molex for it to work. So I put the
    mini-disk in and this is what it gave me:

    https://postimg.cc/PpRCZ4Tr

    https://postimg.cc/Hr9j3HdN

    I tried the Patriot stick afterwards and still nothing.

    We done everything we can for the 8500 and the 780
    but I have one last question.

    Can I move My bookmarks and My Documents from
    Win 7 to Win 10 when and if the time comes?

    I'll leave everything as is and won't touch anything and
    will continue making monthly mrimgs.

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 10 00:12:02 2023
    On 12/7/2023 3:38 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I remember we had keyboard problems before and I
    used a standard non- eronomic keyboard that came with
    the 8500 I believe that got us through the problem.
    Unfortunately, I don't have that keyboard anymore which
    is why I bought the standard Microsoft ergonomic keyboard
    and now is on the 780. I usually use Microsoft 4000
    ergonomic keyboards.

    My eyes have glazed over many times *L* At any rate I
    was able to get it to boot Macrium but the 8500 definitely
    doesn't like PE10 for whatever reason. So I'm sticking with
    the PE 5.0

    So the APTIO BIOS is OK,... just a another customer BIOS
    that Dell uses for it's customer base.

    I just tried plugging in a Patriot stick to the 3.0 port on the
    780 and nothing happened. Do I have to remove the molex
    cable? I wouldn't think so since it's not connected to anything.

    I used PE10 on the 780 because we wanted it for the 3.0 driver
    but one thing I don't like about PE10 is it takes forever to load.
    I'm thinking of going back to PE 5.0 on both computers because
    I didn't have any problems with it.

    Robert


    To "load" a macrium, the boot.wim is loaded into a RAMdisk
    created in memory. If you use an optical drive and a CD,
    then the CD may load at 5MB/sec and the boot.wim is 300MB.
    That means it would take 60 seconds, to load the boot.wim.
    If you burn a small CD image, to a larger DVD blank,
    the DVD I/O rate is a bit better than the CD case.

    If the Macrium Rescue is on a Patriot stick and plugged
    into the (bootable) USB2 port, the USB2 port works at
    30MB/sec. Now, loading takes ten seconds.

    If the Patriot stick was plugged into the 8500 (bootable) USB3
    port, then the 300MB file loads faster still, than the
    previous two examples. This assumes the Patriot stick
    is a USB3 stick (blue tab). The slowest USB sticks
    are 100:10 , and reading is at 100MB/sec. If the setup
    achieves that rate, the boot.wim loads in 3 seconds.

    The largest WinPE ever made, was created by someone on the
    Internet, and it loads a very large file, which takes... forever.
    Just be glad you're using a Macrium, with one of the smaller
    WIM files.

    If you do the math, and the I/O rate seems abnormally low,
    then maybe there is some issue with the equipment. But I don't
    know what would account for it.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Dec 9 22:13:44 2023
    I don't mean install Win 10 over Win 7, I already have Win 10
    hd's we made for the 780 and 8500 when they still offered Win
    10 upgrade for free. I mean can I copy/paste my bookmarks
    and My Documents from Win 7 to the Win 10 hd?


    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 10 00:52:24 2023
    On 12/9/2023 8:38 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I'm re-posting my last message in case you didn't see it

    I forgot to run the mini disk on the 780 because I thought
    I needed to connect the molex for it to work. So I put the
    mini-disk in and this is what it gave me:

    https://postimg.cc/PpRCZ4Tr

    https://postimg.cc/Hr9j3HdN

    I tried the Patriot stick afterwards and still nothing.

    We done everything we can for the 8500 and the 780
    but I have one last question.

    Can I move My bookmarks and My Documents from
    Win 7 to Win 10 when and if the time comes?

    I'll leave everything as is and won't touch anything and
    will continue making monthly mrimgs.

    Robert


    You could install Windows 10 "over-top" of Window7 SP1,
    preserving user data and programs.

    What does not work at this time, is Free Upgrade license
    generation. If you previously installed Windows 10 at least
    once on the machine, then chances are you verified your
    license issue at that time. The license is stored on
    the Microsoft server.

    When you install Windows 10 over-top of Windows7 SP1,
    and you already had the Free license generated, then
    today not only does it install, it also activates.

    However, if you had a licensed copy of Windows 7 today,
    where WIndows 10 had never been installed on the machine,
    then chances are, you would have missed out on the Free Upgrade
    license offer. The Windows 10 OS would still run, but it
    would be unlicensed.

    *******

    To install over top:

    1) Back up the Windows 7 machine.

    2) Boot up Windows 7. You'll be using File Explorer.

    3) Load the Windows 10 DVD into the tray, or alternately,
    right-click the windows.iso file you downloaded and select Mount.
    If you have Imgburn installed, instead click the windows.iso file
    and select "open with File Explorer" or similar, to mount it.

    The DVD drive that you see in File Explorer, will have
    a Setup.exe . Run that, and the install will kick off.

    https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/240831d1547071385-upgrade-windows-10-a-windows_10_repair_install-1.png

    # This is where you give permission for it to go ahead...

    https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/26314d1485953169-upgrade-windows-10-a-windows_10_upgrade-6.png

    https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/23443d1485952416-upgrade-windows-10-a-windows_10_upgrade-7.png

    # You are installing Win10 over Win7, so you will not see Win7 any more.
    # Win7 is inside C:\Windows.old , but, it won't stay there forever.

    3) It'll take a while and a few reboots, to finish the install.
    Expect to waste two to three hours on the project.

    There are web articles with pictures. This one has
    quite a few examples, but no article will look exactly
    like a certain users situation. Expect a bit of poetic license.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/2267-upgrade-windows-10-a.html

    *******

    You can also install Windows OSes side-by-side and multiboot. But
    if you do that, the Win10 would be a clean install, and you boot
    the DVD disc to do such an install. And your user documents would
    not get transferred. "Installing-over-top" is how you preserve as much
    of the useful bits as possible, when putting the new OS on the machine.
    And "Installing-Over-Top" is done while the old OS is running, and
    you use Setup.exe on the Win10 DVD image.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Dec 9 22:06:55 2023
    I have two 3.0 ports on the PCI card

    I checked the 780 Device Manager but
    there was no Unknown device. I did click
    the top folder and did properties etc. just to
    see the contents.

    https://postimg.cc/cgzFG6Rx

    https://postimg.cc/p5nqWxCD

    https://postimg.cc/Jt9pTD7K

    https://postimg.cc/XpdQtjpW

    https://postimg.cc/68hz5Mr1

    https://postimg.cc/94Fb4y1X


    but there were no drivers from the mini disk.

    I prefer not to use Patriot's for loading the WIM files
    although faster it seems a bit iffy to me. I have made a
    PE10 SD-card with USB adapter for the 780 and a PE10
    Rescue CD but haven't done anything for the 8500 except
    I have created (2) PE10 Rescue CD's but each had problems
    afterwards.

    At this point I'd rather not mess with the 8500 anymore to
    create a USB WIM file and I still have to press F12 because
    it doesn't detect the optical drive. The 780 does.

    So I think it's best to leave well enough alone.

    I did want to ask, can I move My Bookmarks and My
    Documents from Win 7 to Win 10?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 10 00:35:04 2023
    On 12/7/2023 7:11 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I forgot to run the mini disk on the 780 because I thought
    I needed to connect the molex for it to work. So I put the
    mini-disk in and this is what it gave me:

    https://postimg.cc/PpRCZ4Tr

    https://postimg.cc/Hr9j3HdN

    I tried the Patriot stick afterwards and still nothing.

    Robert


    I see your message now.

    The mini-disc in this case, is a "generic" intended
    for several add-on cards. You would look at the
    chip on the card, to verify it is a 720202 or whatever.

    Yours might be a NEC/Renesas. And the part number begins
    with 72xxxx. NEC made a couple chips, one of the chips
    has more ports on it than the other.

    Once the driver is installed, you should see
    an entry in Device Manager. If you don't know how
    to find the Device Manager, try this

    Start : Run : devmgmt.msc

    D720101
    D720200
    D720201
    D720202

    The NEC company, changed the chip company name it uses
    to Renesas. This was happening, right around the time
    the first USB3 chip was released. This is why the 720200
    was a NEC chip -- it was too late to rebadge the chip to
    Renesas at that point.

    1033 NEC Corporation
    00e0 uPD72010x USB 2.0 Controller <=== the earlier PCI bus USB2 add-on chip ("old")
    1033 NEC Corporation
    0194 uPD720200 USB 3.0 Host Controller <=== first chip PCIe Gen2 Two USB3 ports
    1912 Renesas Technology Corp.
    0014 uPD720201 USB 3.0 Host Controller PCIe Gen2 Fur USB3 ports
    0015 uPD720202 USB 3.0 Host Controller PCIe Gen2 Two USB3 ports

    If in Windows 7 and there was no driver present, then an
    Unknown device would appear in Device Manager. Once the
    driver is installed, the new USB3 hub should be in
    the USB section of Device Manager. Highlighting the
    newly acquired item and doing

    Properties : Details : Hardware IDs

    should give numbers like 1912:0015 . That electronic ID should
    correlate with some number printed on the plastic chip (the uPD number).

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Dec 9 22:25:13 2023
    Here's a list of my available hd's.

    https://postimg.cc/7GLTMVTh

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Dec 10 15:32:25 2023
    For example; this is what I was thinking,.. could I export My Bookmarks
    and copy My Documents from Win 7 using a Patriot? Then switch the hd's
    in the 780 and put in my Win 10 hd we made and import My Bookmarks
    and paste My Documents in the Windows 10 hd?

    That's how I moved them from the 8500 to the 780 but Win 10 is laid
    out differently so I don't know how to navigate to bookmarks.

    I assume I would paste 'My Documents' in the C: drive but I would
    have to find the bookmarks menu to import them.

    I searched for importing bookmarks to Win 10 but it keeps giving me
    importing to Chrome. I found this though: It says that FF has a bug?

    https://www.tenforums.com/browsers-email/205777-how-do-i-import-bookmarks-saved-logons-into-firefox-win-10-a.html

    I've watched Win 10 videos but it seems confusing to me.
    I don't like the tiles system at all. It seems like they made it
    more difficult not easier.

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Dec 14 22:12:28 2023
    On 12/10/2023 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I don't mean install Win 10 over Win 7, I already have Win 10
    hd's we made for the 780 and 8500 when they still offered Win
    10 upgrade for free. I mean can I copy/paste my bookmarks
    and My Documents from Win 7 to the Win 10 hd?


    Robert


    With some care, of course you can.

    The accounts on the disks, even if two C: drives have "Rob" on
    them, they're not really the same account. But as long as
    the account belongs to the Administrator group, there will be
    the green bar "implicit Takeown" to allow files to be pasted from
    one to the other.

    Only if using a limiter user account, would you have issues
    with the pasting.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Dec 14 19:57:23 2023
    That's the problem. I checked on exporting/importing
    bookmarks to Win 10. Exporting is no problem because
    I did it before on the 780 but Win 10 doesn't seem to provide
    for importing bookmarks and only offers Edge and Chrome.

    As I said, I assume I can just copy/paste My Documents
    into the C: partition but I have to locate that as well because
    Win 10 is laid out differently.

    So before I start to do any of this I want to make sure I
    understand what to do and have a plan to do this. I don't
    want to open up the 780 and change the hd's without not
    knowing what I'm doing.

    Also while we still have time before Google ends posting in
    Feb then we'll loose contact. I wish there was some way we
    could stay in contact.

    I'm leery of opening the 8500 and changing hd's and also export
    /import bookmarks and My Documents to its Win 10 hd. I would
    hate to have something go wrong with the 8500 and since
    I can't post on the 780 I would be stuck with no help. However we
    can do the 780 and go from there and if no problems do the 8500.

    It looks like this is going to be our last project together.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Dec 14 19:58:38 2023
    I had started another post for this because I thought this one
    was getting too long but if you prefer we'll keep it here.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Dec 14 21:07:32 2023
    I can export my bookmarks via Patriot stick but I
    don't know how to import them into Win 10 and its
    laid out allot different than Win 7

    For My Documents I would have to use browsing
    mrimgs, then copy/paste to the C: partition on Win
    10 hd.

    What do you think?

    Also, will Macrium and my anti-virus and anti-malware
    still work in Win 10? Will the mrimgs still work?

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 15 00:27:43 2023
    On 12/15/2023 12:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I can export my bookmarks via Patriot stick but I
    don't know how to import them into Win 10 and its
    laid out allot different than Win 7

    For My Documents I would have to use browsing
    mrimgs, then copy/paste to the C: partition on Win
    10 hd.

    What do you think?

    Also, will Macrium and my anti-virus and anti-malware
    still work in Win 10? Will the mrimgs still work?

    Robert

    I'm working on an answer.

    The Firefox has Bookmarks. It has Import and Export (backup) options.
    The backup is .json . The export is .html . Both are text file formats,
    so can be examined in Notepad.

    An Anti-Virus program, if you install one in place of Windows Defender,
    will take the place of Windows Defender. A spyware program means
    nothing to Windows particularly, and should function like any other
    program. If you have a licensed Avira or AVG or the like, they will
    place an entry in the Registry, telling Windows that they are in control
    and Windows Defender is not needed.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 15 02:27:09 2023
    On 12/10/2023 6:32 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    For example; this is what I was thinking,.. could I export My Bookmarks
    and copy My Documents from Win 7 using a Patriot? Then switch the hd's
    in the 780 and put in my Win 10 hd we made and import My Bookmarks
    and paste My Documents in the Windows 10 hd?

    That's how I moved them from the 8500 to the 780 but Win 10 is laid
    out differently so I don't know how to navigate to bookmarks.

    I assume I would paste 'My Documents' in the C: drive but I would
    have to find the bookmarks menu to import them.

    I searched for importing bookmarks to Win 10 but it keeps giving me
    importing to Chrome. I found this though: It says that FF has a bug?

    https://www.tenforums.com/browsers-email/205777-how-do-i-import-bookmarks-saved-logons-into-firefox-win-10-a.html

    I've watched Win 10 videos but it seems confusing to me.
    I don't like the tiles system at all. It seems like they made it
    more difficult not easier.

    Robert

    This is for passwords and logins. Maybe automatically logging into GoogleGroups would work with a transfer done this way. I haven't tested this, but I found
    a few details.

    https://stackoverflow.com/questions/72938885/how-to-import-passwords-and-logins-data-to-firefox

    about:config

    security.allow_eval_in_parent_process True # Should be False right now

    signon.management.page.fileImport.enabled True # Do importations, then return to Defaults
    # Double-clicking a Boolean preference, flips the value
    # to the other state.

    Exporting and Importing of Bookmarks, should work
    "before the fact", from the old Firefox, in preparation
    for the new Firefox on a different disk drive.

    I don't think that I've *ever* has passwords or logins handled
    transparently via copying the entire profile folder ABCD1234
    to the other machine. But much of what is copied in a profile
    folder that way, works.

    The "compatibility.ini" file in the Profile folder, is how the
    Mozilla tools tell whether you're moving in the forward direction.

    Moving in the forward direction on version, works "as long as the
    architecture has not changed too much". Thunderbird changing
    from the old version to SuperNova, likely has the odd issue with
    such a transfer. Seamonkey has also had warnings in its release
    notes, about large changes affecting its ability to move forward.

    Using flags like "allow_downgrade" also allows Mozilla tools
    to move backwards, but then there are still chances of things
    going wrong. And definitely no reason for passwords or login
    credentials to survive the transfer.

    *******

    Computers are ascending to a bloody ridiculous level of complexity,
    for the joy they give. To give you an example of just how much
    this stuff sucks, my regular Ethernet interface (RealTek, common
    to a *lot* of computers) has started acting up in Windows. I tested
    in Linux and it works just fine. It is not a hardware failure. It's
    some sort of software issue. I have subjected it to ProcMon analysis
    and still am not sure exactly what is going on. It does not respond to
    NIC Preferences at all. At the current time, I'm running the network
    connection on my emergency Ethernet chip, and I just placed an order
    for two more NIC cards of different brand than the two I've got.
    This represents an unnecessary expense.

    Your version of Windows 10 (sitting quietly on the disk drive),
    is going to be slightly older than Win10 22H2 (19045.3086 or so).
    I've noticed that Win10 21H2 (the last two versions are supposed
    to receive support), it has stopped receiving new Windows Updates
    Patch Tuesday since June 2023. Microsoft now delivers Windows Updates
    to just Win10 22H2. The winver.exe utility in the OS, lists the version
    number.

    Rather than your plan of action, I propose this:

    +-----+-------------------+------------------+ - - - - - - - - +
    | MBR | Win10 C: | System Reserved | <unallocated> | Back up your "I got License" Win10.
    +-----+-------------------+------------------+ - - - - - - - - +
    This is the "newer disk drive". This would
    be a slightly older Windows 10, perhaps 21H2.
    Your Optiplex 780 will work with 22H2, because
    you have an NVidia video card installed in it.
    The Optiplex 780 will roll back to 21H2, if running
    with just the integrated graphics.

    *******

    +-----+------------------+------------------+ - - - - - - - - - +
    | MBR | Win7 C: | System Reserved | <unallocated> | Back up your win7 with bookmarks (select a descriptive filename)
    +-----+------------------+------------------+ - - - - - - - - - + This is the "old disk drive". Remove drive. Keep enclosure connected.

    +-----+------------------+------------------+ - - - - - - - - - +
    | MBR | Win7 C: | System Reserved | <unallocated> | Restore over top of the Win10 content. Erasing it.
    +-----+------------------+------------------+ - - - - - - - - - + This is the "newer disk drive"

    Insert a recent Windows.iso from a Windows 10 download, onto
    the Windows 7 Downloads folder. (You can do this download right in
    Windows 7, using MediaCreationTool offered on the MS site .)
    Right-click and mount the Windows.iso that MediaCreationTool creates.
    An install-over-top of "Windows 7 clone" we are working with, all
    we need is Windows.iso and mounting the ISO to do the install. You
    can also make a DVD of the Windows.iso if you want, and pop that in the
    tray if regular Mounting from the right-click menu is not working or
    is missing. You can also tell Windows to "open with Explorer" of the
    Windows.iso and that should mount it too.

    Select the Setup.exe and run it. This starts an install of 19045 Win10 22H2.
    If the original was Win7Pro, you end up with Win10Pro.
    All your personal files (bookmarks) and programs are preserved.
    There can be programs which will not be moved forward, but it will
    warn you before the install starts, so you know what it plans to do.

    This is the easiest way to maintain continuity of materials. By doing it
    this way, *no* profile transfer is required, and *no* icky trouble-prone procedures are involved.

    It is the combination of "backups" and "OS installs", which can reduce
    the complexity. Notice we're not copying things with a Patriot stick now.

    The AV program may not copy over. The Spyware will likely transfer fine.
    You can always look in your Downloads folder, for the installer you used
    for the AV the last time.

    *******

    WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!

    Google is removing the path between GoogleGroups and USENET.

    https://support.google.com/groups/answer/11036538 # end of USENET peering

    "Starting on February 22, 2024, you can
    no longer post content to Usenet groups"

    paganini.bofh.team

    Start by downloading some kind of USENET News Client.

    Thunderbird from Mozilla, does both Email and USENET News.

    http://releases.mozilla.org/pub/thunderbird/releases/115.5.2/win64/en-US/Thunderbird%20Setup%20115.5.2.exe

    After you install that on one of your C: drives, there is a setup to do.

    You can select "Download Original" at the top of the PostImage window,
    to get a higher resolution version of the image.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/dtR5RR4W/TBird115setup-USENET.gif

    That's a more recent version than I use. I had to poke around
    a bit to get the three pane view going.

    When you prepare a Followup message, it should say "Newsgroup"
    as the destination. It should not say "Email address" like
    my fake email address "nospam@needed.invalid" , as then the post
    would be lost in space. Thunderbird has an annoying habit of
    randomly sending messages to Email, instead of to USENET,
    and just watch the header format is correct before hitting "Send" button.

    Thunderbird is like flying a 747. You practically need a manual.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Dec 15 02:05:32 2023
    I checked about:config and it's false.

    https://postimg.cc/GTxLnt18

    I'm not following you here. You want me to sign on
    to disk management? and find the fielimport and change
    it? I did log onto disk management but couldn't see anything
    to enable or disable.

    signon.management.page.fileImport.enabled True # Do importations, then return to Defaults
    # Double-clicking a Boolean preference, flips the value
    # to the other state.

    I have been able to export my bookmarks from the 780
    to a Patriot with no problem.

    It sounds like it's getting worst and worst, even if I do
    switch to Win 10 from what you say they've stopped
    upgrading that as well. Does that mean my screens will
    someday just go black and not function ?

    Are you saying the only way to preserve my bookmarks is
    to install Win 10 over my Win 7hd ? Then I would loose Win
    7 forever. I'm confused right now as to what you want to do?
    So my Win 10 hd's we created when it was still a free upgrade
    are obsolete and useless?

    I can't remember which file I used to download programs that's
    why I wanted you to review them.

    Yes I saw the warning which explains why the 780 couldn't post
    anymore and makes whatever we decide to do more urgent.

    I tried using Thunderbird before but it didn't work. Still, I clicked
    your link but it said file not downloaded potential security risk in red.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Dec 15 01:24:10 2023
    I thought about this and I would need to import my
    bookmarks before I could browse for My Documents.
    At the very least I would need a link to download
    macrium to Win 10 to access the browse option.

    At present I have Spywareblaster, Malwarebytes, Avast ,
    Windows Defender and Windows firewall. How do I set
    up Win 10? I saw a video on Win 10 where the guy was
    going through all the settings and it seems there's allot
    of them. and didn't understand all what he was doing.
    I wouldn't want to mess something up in settings.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Dec 15 02:29:39 2023
    Here's my list of hd's

    https://postimg.cc/v1hvqFTQ

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Dec 15 04:08:48 2023
    I re-read your instructions,.. you want me to
    remove my Win 7 hd and replace it with my
    Win 10 hd we already created and clone over
    it with a newer version of Windows 10 using
    an iso. ,correct?

    I watched a YouTube video on how to do it
    and I can follow it as I do the 780.

    Since we created the Win 10 hd's from Win 7
    most of my bookmarks and My Documents
    should be there but they wouldn't be up to date.

    The AV programs worry me because then I'll
    have to set things up again all over and Win 10
    layout is so different and confusing.

    I agree with you about computers getting crazy.

    I saw your instructions if FF would of let me download
    Thunderbird,... wow,. there's quite a few just to reply.!
    Thunderbird reminds me of the instructions for using the
    toilet in the space lab.

    They sure don't make it easy, do they? Computers
    were suppose to make things easier and it seems they
    are making it harder and harder and in my case as you
    well know I get problems that crop up out of no where,
    like with your Ethernet connection.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Dec 15 05:44:25 2023
    I was thinking, even if I make an iso file and put it in
    downloads on the Win 10 hd and then run it, it will only
    update Win 10 not the bookmarks or My Documents.

    Is there no way of importing bookmarks to Win10?
    I still think browsing the mrimg is the only solution.
    and I need macrium to do that.

    Also can we continue this on the new thread I started?
    O.T. - Moving bookmarks and My Documents from Win 7 hd to Win 10 hd
    The posts are getting pretty long.

    Thanks.
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 15 11:48:12 2023
    On 12/15/2023 8:44 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I was thinking, even if I make an iso file and put it in
    downloads on the Win 10 hd and then run it, it will only
    update Win 10 not the bookmarks or My Documents.

    Is there no way of importing bookmarks to Win10?
    I still think browsing the mrimg is the only solution.
    and I need macrium to do that.

    Also can we continue this on the new thread I started?
    O.T. - Moving bookmarks and My Documents from Win 7 hd to Win 10 hd
    The posts are getting pretty long.

    Thanks.
    Robert

    Of course you can copy stuff to the new disk.

    I was hoping to come up with a scheme, so that your
    Win7 environment would be preserved.

    You can export bookmarks, and bring them places with your
    Patriot USB flash stick.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 15 11:53:12 2023
    On 12/15/2023 12:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I can export my bookmarks via Patriot stick but I
    don't know how to import them into Win 10 and its
    laid out allot different than Win 7

    For My Documents I would have to use browsing
    mrimgs, then copy/paste to the C: partition on Win
    10 hd.

    What do you think?

    Also, will Macrium and my anti-virus and anti-malware
    still work in Win 10? Will the mrimgs still work?

    Robert

    Only your "true AV programs" may present a problem, on
    an Upgrade or Repair install. Avast/Avira/AVG kind of thing.

    Their installations tend to touch things ordinary programs
    do not use.

    In any case, when the Windows Setup.exe runs from the ISO file,
    it will do a compatibility check, and anything blacklisted
    will be shown to you, as an "issue", before the installation
    attempt is made. If they say "you'll need to remove Avast/Avira/AVG",
    then you deal with the issue at that time. You can stop the
    setup and defer to later, once you have a "new plan" for your
    install sequence.

    In any case, for a paid AV product, don't lose the license key
    for it.

    I don't have any experience of migrating true (paid) AV products,
    so I really don't know what to expect. On one install here,
    the installer told me "Virtualbox 5 is a blocker" and I removed
    that and the install went fine.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 15 11:46:18 2023
    On 12/15/2023 7:08 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I re-read your instructions,.. you want me to
    remove my Win 7 hd and replace it with my
    Win 10 hd we already created and clone over
    it with a newer version of Windows 10 using
    an iso. ,correct?

    I watched a YouTube video on how to do it
    and I can follow it as I do the 780.

    Since we created the Win 10 hd's from Win 7
    most of my bookmarks and My Documents
    should be there but they wouldn't be up to date.

    The AV programs worry me because then I'll
    have to set things up again all over and Win 10
    layout is so different and confusing.

    I agree with you about computers getting crazy.

    I saw your instructions if FF would of let me download
    Thunderbird,... wow,. there's quite a few just to reply.!
    Thunderbird reminds me of the instructions for using the
    toilet in the space lab.

    They sure don't make it easy, do they? Computers
    were suppose to make things easier and it seems they
    are making it harder and harder and in my case as you
    well know I get problems that crop up out of no where,
    like with your Ethernet connection.

    Robert

    You can see the two links for Thunderbird, on this web page.
    The EXE one would be the one I would normally get. You can also
    install an MSI, if that makes your AV happy.

    http://releases.mozilla.org/pub/thunderbird/releases/115.5.2/win64/en-US/

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 15 12:16:47 2023
    On 12/15/2023 5:05 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I checked about:config and it's false.

    https://postimg.cc/GTxLnt18

    I'm not following you here. You want me to sign on
    to disk management? and find the fielimport and change
    it? I did log onto disk management but couldn't see anything
    to enable or disable.

    signon.management.page.fileImport.enabled True # Do importations, then return to Defaults
    # Double-clicking a Boolean preference, flips the value
    # to the other state.

    I have been able to export my bookmarks from the 780
    to a Patriot with no problem.

    It sounds like it's getting worst and worst, even if I do
    switch to Win 10 from what you say they've stopped
    upgrading that as well. Does that mean my screens will
    someday just go black and not function ?

    Are you saying the only way to preserve my bookmarks is
    to install Win 10 over my Win 7hd ? Then I would loose Win
    7 forever. I'm confused right now as to what you want to do?
    So my Win 10 hd's we created when it was still a free upgrade
    are obsolete and useless?

    I can't remember which file I used to download programs that's
    why I wanted you to review them.

    Yes I saw the warning which explains why the 780 couldn't post
    anymore and makes whatever we decide to do more urgent.

    I tried using Thunderbird before but it didn't work. Still, I clicked
    your link but it said file not downloaded potential security risk in red.

    Robert


    Windows 10 last version upgrade, was 22H2.

    It continues to receive security patches on Patch Tuesday.
    It continues to receive Windows Defender AV definitions.

    It is supported until some time in 2025.

    ( Windows 7 is out of support. Firefox ESR is supported until some time in 2024. )

    The event horizon is still a bit on the short side.

    *******

    Windows 11 would be a free upgrade from Windows 10.
    But it requires a TPM be present, for a trouble-free install.
    A TPM 2.0 is the preferred version.

    Windows 10 may show your TPM information. Note that a TPM is
    not an "iron fortress" and just about every security feature
    on a computer can be defeated. Making this a requirement for
    Windows 11 is a bit silly. And especially as in my case,
    the TPM hasn't been used at all, ever :-) A hood ornament.
    But I have one, a little module that plugs into the
    motherboard header. You can't even buy the one I've
    got any more! And it's only two years old.

    That's all part of the "crazy" of computers now.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/cC0H8nK6/TPM-Device-Security-Readout-Windows10.gif

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Dec 15 16:08:32 2023
    I downloaded Thunderbird and selected the exe
    and FF was OK with it. I haven't set it up yet.
    When it asks for my email account and password
    is it asking me to make up a password or the actual
    password to the email account?

    I guess another way of saying it is how do I update
    my existing bookmarks and My Documents on the
    Win 10 hd.

    I can export bookmarks from Win 7 via the Patriot but
    I haven't found where I can import them on Win 10?
    Every time I try to do a search on how to do it it keeps
    giving me Chrome. One video showed how he did it by
    using the application menu to manage bookmarks.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRuLTlHpMV8

    It seems like he was in Win 7 the entire time not Win 10
    because there was no change in the desktop layout.
    He just moved bookmarks from Win 7 to Win 7 .

    I understand about Win 7 not being supported
    anymore and I want to get the latest version of
    Win 10 of course.

    I was also thinking of using the spare 780 Win 10 hd
    for this as a test just in case something goes wrong.
    Then if everything goes well I can do the master
    780 Win 10 hd.

    As far as the A/V programs they may survive the upgrade
    with flying colors or I may just have to reinstall and I have
    to 8500 to check for downloads. The 780 has the same A/V
    programs. I didn't have to reinstall anything when I upgraded
    from Win 7 to Win 10. I only use free A/V products. I don't
    pay for any of it.

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Dec 15 16:38:58 2023
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Dec 15 17:34:06 2023
    Somehow I managed to get Thunderbird completed but I
    clicked on read email and I can't get out of it. How the hell do I
    turn Thunderbird off or is it like Sea Monkey and activated
    every time I open it.

    I don't like having my email account attached to Thunderbird.
    It's stuck in email and I can't seem to get out of it. , So what do
    I do now?

    Just one problem after another.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Dec 15 20:34:17 2023
    I finally figured out how to get out of email,... whew. operator error *L*

    https://postimg.cc/23DP9ZxT

    So what do I do now? I tried to follow your instructions but the step where
    I click finish I missed where the file went and couldn't complete the process. I've tried to repeat it but it doesn't let me because its all grayed out.

    back to the

    about:config

    security.allow_eval_in_parent_process True # Should be False right now

    I checked and it was false but why was I checking this again?

    Looking at my available hd's I would first want to try this on the spare
    Win10 hd and it should have bookmarks and My documents on it as well
    although dated.

    Could I just copy/paste without using macrium?

    Since you know my email, why couldn't you just send me a
    'ping' email so we could stay in touch that way? It would
    be allot easier than using Thunderbird and Yahoo isn't going
    away anytime soon. What do you think? It allot better than on
    here or Thunderbird and would only email you if I needed help.

    I understand the process and steps to download and create an iso and
    update Win 10 to a newer version. Will it update to Win 11 automatically
    or do I have to go back and make an Update iso which they offered?

    Hopefully I won't have any issues with the TPM since it didn't when
    we upgraded from Win 7 Pro to Win 10 when they still offered it for free.


    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Dec 15 23:17:16 2023
    never mind about my email suggestion; with over
    150+ posts here it wouldn't be feasible.

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Dec 16 02:16:34 2023
    On 12/15/2023 11:34 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I finally figured out how to get out of email,... whew. operator error *L*

    https://postimg.cc/23DP9ZxT

    So what do I do now? I tried to follow your instructions but the step where
    I click finish I missed where the file went and couldn't complete the process.
    I've tried to repeat it but it doesn't let me because its all grayed out.

    back to the

    about:config

    security.allow_eval_in_parent_process True # Should be False right now

    I checked and it was false but why was I checking this again?

    Looking at my available hd's I would first want to try this on the spare Win10 hd and it should have bookmarks and My documents on it as well
    although dated.

    Could I just copy/paste without using macrium?

    Since you know my email, why couldn't you just send me a
    'ping' email so we could stay in touch that way? It would
    be allot easier than using Thunderbird and Yahoo isn't going
    away anytime soon. What do you think? It allot better than on
    here or Thunderbird and would only email you if I needed help.

    I understand the process and steps to download and create an iso and
    update Win 10 to a newer version. Will it update to Win 11 automatically
    or do I have to go back and make an Update iso which they offered?

    Hopefully I won't have any issues with the TPM since it didn't when
    we upgraded from Win 7 Pro to Win 10 when they still offered it for free.


    Robert

    My email isn't even on this computer. It, and the address book, are
    kept on a separate computer.

    Win10 won't upgrade to Win11, if the TPM module it wants isn't present.
    This means, on the Optiplex 780 at least, it is probably a bit
    too crusty for Windows 11 to be a candidate. If it did try to install,
    it would just roll back to Windows 10 again.

    On the XPS8500, you'll have to check your hardware details, like
    what kind of TPM is present, as to whether Windows 11 finds the machine "inviting". At least the 8500 has enough horsepower for a Windows 11.

    The "InControl" utility from this site, can set an upper limit
    on the release. In the example, it is set to Win10 21H2, which
    prevents 22H2 from coming in, and also prevents any Windows 11 version
    from coming in. But if you were to use it, as shown in the picture,
    you would also have not received the November Patch Tuesday for
    Windows 10 21H2 (seems to be out of support, so upgrading to
    22H2 is mandatory for continued patching).

    https://www.grc.com/incontrol.htm

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Dec 16 04:22:20 2023
    On 12/15/2023 8:34 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Somehow I managed to get Thunderbird completed but I
    clicked on read email and I can't get out of it. How the hell do I
    turn Thunderbird off or is it like Sea Monkey and activated
    every time I open it.

    I don't like having my email account attached to Thunderbird.
    It's stuck in email and I can't seem to get out of it. , So what do
    I do now?

    Just one problem after another.

    Robert


    [Picture] Accounts are on the left

    https://i.postimg.cc/W4xGLzx3/thunderbird-accounts-pane-on-left.gif

    The top of the accounts list, is the Email in that Thunderbird. The
    "Inbox" below bullwinkle@mail.local is an Email Inbox only for that account.

    The Drafts on the other hand, I think that's unified. If I saved either
    a USENET answer as a Draft, or a half-finished email reply as a Draft,
    they are likely to go into the same folder. Similarly, the Sent may
    be unified.

    *******

    If you want to separate them, do the setup again in Seamonkey.
    Seamonkey is a suite, and a USENET news client (it looks like
    an old Thunderbird) is in there. This would allow keeping a completely
    separate profile, away from your existing Thunderbird.

    https://www.seamonkey-project.org/releases/

    The purpose of selecting paganini, is it does not require applying
    for an account. A second benefit it has, is it has microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
    in it. That's something that Eternal-September removed.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Dec 16 05:27:23 2023
    On 12/15/2023 7:38 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Here's my Thunderbird installation:

    https://postimg.cc/SXnwS9rw

    https://postimg.cc/VJVVV684 Using the limited_account to do a Program Install !!!

    https://postimg.cc/vxbqVxr8

    https://postimg.cc/SYdZ7Qd6

    https://postimg.cc/DmcFYqYg

    https://postimg.cc/WhWVssVq

    https://postimg.cc/2b7pMDT6

    https://postimg.cc/5jpdmf6K That is the tab that could have been dismissed and ignored.

    Robert


    That looks pretty good.

    In your last picture, that's the "bad advertising" they do for a
    promoted email provider. It's unnecessary when first acquiring Thunderbird,
    to be setting up an email account. You should just be able to enjoy the
    icons in the silly program, with no accounts in place.

    The purpose of pushing the user in this way, is to make them set up
    an email, as if email is all the program does.

    if they instead, made the program "passive", a good percentage of the
    potential users would just click the "X" and close the program :-/

    Using that "Bozo Tab" in the way they do, if I was the designer,
    this would NOT be my first choice. A program is your servant.
    It WAITS for a command. The action controls should be on the
    upper left, to be more predictable. The user should use the menu bar,
    find the "New email account" or "New USENET account", and so on.

    Designing programs is not exactly rocket science. You don't
    need a psychiatrist at your elbow to design one.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Dec 16 05:17:28 2023
    On 12/15/2023 7:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I downloaded Thunderbird and selected the exe
    and FF was OK with it. I haven't set it up yet.
    When it asks for my email account and password
    is it asking me to make up a password or the actual
    password to the email account?

    I guess another way of saying it is how do I update
    my existing bookmarks and My Documents on the
    Win 10 hd.

    I can export bookmarks from Win 7 via the Patriot but
    I haven't found where I can import them on Win 10?
    Every time I try to do a search on how to do it it keeps
    giving me Chrome. One video showed how he did it by
    using the application menu to manage bookmarks.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRuLTlHpMV8

    It seems like he was in Win 7 the entire time not Win 10
    because there was no change in the desktop layout.
    He just moved bookmarks from Win 7 to Win 7 .

    I understand about Win 7 not being supported
    anymore and I want to get the latest version of
    Win 10 of course.

    I was also thinking of using the spare 780 Win 10 hd
    for this as a test just in case something goes wrong.
    Then if everything goes well I can do the master
    780 Win 10 hd.

    As far as the A/V programs they may survive the upgrade
    with flying colors or I may just have to reinstall and I have
    to 8500 to check for downloads. The 780 has the same A/V
    programs. I didn't have to reinstall anything when I upgraded
    from Win 7 to Win 10. I only use free A/V products. I don't
    pay for any of it.

    Robert

    In my slideshow picture, we weren't even using the prompt
    to set up an email account. That tab can be dismissed.

    That's not part of getting a USENET account to work.

    The USENET account could have been installed, with no email
    account at all involved.

    *******

    Bookmarks : Manage Bookmarks

    The bookmarks have Import and Export. This is the logic.

    Backup ===> .JSON file ===> Restore : Choose File

    Export Bookmarks to HTML ===> .HTML file ===> Import Bookmarks

    The difference between the two file formats, is the JSON
    stores the favicon as a URL pointing at a website. If the icon on
    the website ever changes its name, then the bookmark loses its icon.

    The HTML file on the other hand, carries the favicon as a BASE64 chunk,
    so the icon is inside the file and cannot get lost quite as easily.
    (I have had cases, where I *did* lose all the icons, so go figure :-) )

    In any case, when the browser inhales the file, some of the content
    is stored in one of the SQLITE files. It makes backup copies as JSON
    files as well, and in an emergency (computer dies), you could
    do a "Restore : Choose File" on one of the JSON files from the old disk,
    when setting up a new computer.

    Historically, the number of days between making automated
    backup files of the JSON variety has varied. It used to do a backup
    every day. Now, it makes fewer of them, and I'm not sure exactly
    why, or whether the backup is "adaptive". If it was adaptive, it
    would not create a new backup file, until some bookmarks were added.
    The old method, the daily backup, was simple minded and "predictable".
    That's what we like in computers, predictable behavior.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Dec 16 05:24:03 2023
    OIC, so the best we can hope for on the 780 is Win 10 Pro. Could
    the TPM also be the reason why the PCI card doesn't work?

    We won't know the TPM version on either the 780 or 8500 until I put
    in the Win 10 hd's. How do I check my TPM on the 8500 or 780 in
    Win 7 ?

    Are you recommending that I use In Control and download the version
    on the left in red or do I click the green download now? I wouldn't know
    how to use it. I read through it and didn't realize Microsoft had made so
    many changes etc. They truly don't know when to leave well enough alone.
    This would be for the 780 and 8500 Win 10 correct?

    I already have Sea Monkey installed but I don't understand the steps involved for creating a USENET in Sea Monkey although I have tried to post with
    O.A.I.C. and failed and Thunderbird won't let me try again because its
    grayed out when I do.

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Dec 16 05:51:03 2023
    I understand the import/export of bookmarks and we have
    done it between the 8500 and 780 with Win 7 but this is
    going from Win 7 to Win 10 and I still haven't found
    any import function to Win 10. That's the problem.
    Win 10 may well have export/import capability but I
    can't seem to find it. In Win 7 it's simple but Win 10 its
    laid out differently but if we can find how to import then
    it should be easy.

    As far as My Documents, when we copy/pasted it from the
    8500 to the 780 I used the browse method with Win 7 mrimgs.
    So I thought I would do the same going from Win 7 to Win 10.
    In that way it would bring them up to date since they already
    should have bookmarks and My Documents and even if they
    don't they will afterwards. Just as we did for the 780.

    I agree, I like predictable behavior,..

    Yes, I used the User Account to install Thunderbird. Unless it
    asks for me to login as Administrator. Should I uninstall and
    re-install Thunderbird without the email account?

    I totally agree with you about the design of the page and I'm
    not even a programmer or engineer but jeez,... if I had the
    ability I would design it as you say.

    So how do we proceed ?
    How do we get the bookmarks to import?
    Can I use the browse option for My documents?
    I need to set up a Usenet with either Thunderbird or SeaMonkey
    with instructions on how to do it
    Install InControl on the 780 and 8500

    What else?

    Thanks
    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Dec 16 19:47:33 2023
    I found a video that shows how to
    access bookmarks in Win 10 in FF

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1BTL97igaw

    It seems pretty much like Win 7, can you
    confirm this? If so, I can go ahead and export my
    bookmarks to a Patriot and then import them to the
    Win 10 HD in the 780.

    Rob

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 17 05:05:55 2023
    On 12/16/2023 10:47 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I found a video that shows how to
    access bookmarks in Win 10 in FF

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1BTL97igaw

    It seems pretty much like Win 7, can you
    confirm this? If so, I can go ahead and export my
    bookmarks to a Patriot and then import them to the
    Win 10 HD in the 780.

    Rob


    What's missing from the Youtube video, is the Menu bar.

    Right click in the upper region of Firefox, and one of the
    options in the context menu, is the Menu Bar.

    There will be a section just for Bookmarks, and it
    will cause the same dialog to appear. But without
    using any Hamburger menu as an intermediary.

    You should be able to go ahead and test this. You have
    the skillz.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Dec 17 03:32:37 2023
    I just tested it on the 8500 but all it says about bookmarks
    is 'always show' etc nothing about importing or exporting.
    but are you suggesting I change hd's in the 780 and try to
    do this to see if it has a menu bar? and then that's how I
    access import/export?

    I was thinking,. right now our highest priority should
    be getting me a usenet account via SeaMonkey so
    we don't loose contact. We can tackle the other problems
    after that.

    Please give me instructions for creating and using
    SeaMonkey usenet so I can post with it. I already
    have a older version of SeaMonkey installed on both
    computers.

    If I can create a Usenet on SeaMonkey to post then
    I should be able to post with the 780 again as well.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Dec 17 04:34:57 2023
    I switched hd's in the 780 but since FF isn't installed
    it doesn't give the menu bar when I right click.

    I did find where to import/export by clicking the 3 dots
    on the upper right top then clicking settings.

    https://postimg.cc/9w4WsF82

    https://postimg.cc/w7cPgYCY

    https://postimg.cc/sMTNG9fn

    https://postimg.cc/dkyHfb2X

    https://postimg.cc/jCy34rdn

    https://postimg.cc/Mn39p6tN

    https://postimg.cc/dZFBxLtk

    https://postimg.cc/SnPHtf0n

    So I need a link to download FF

    Also I couldn't find how to shut it down and I ended up
    signing out of my account which apparently was the
    Administrators Account and my usual password didn't
    work so I have to reset it. The User Account had nothing.

    I still think at present we need to focus on getting me a USENET
    on SeaMonkey so I can post and then we can come back to Win
    10 because there's time element to this and I don't want to loose
    contact.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Dec 17 04:40:13 2023
    I switched the Win 7 hd back in the 780 but I
    left the Win10 hd inside instead of taking it in
    and out. The 780 has slots for (2) hd's.

    Actually, the cable has two connections on it
    as well but I don't know about connecting both
    of them at the same time with two different OS's.

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Dec 17 04:50:13 2023
    I just realized that the import is in Internet
    Explorer not FF so I couldn't use the one
    shown.

    I would need to download FF and use its
    import function for my bookmarks to work,
    correct?

    but again, lets tackle all this after I establish
    a USENET and can post with it.

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Dec 18 01:10:34 2023
    On 12/17/2023 7:34 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I switched hd's in the 780 but since FF isn't installed
    it doesn't give the menu bar when I right click.

    I did find where to import/export by clicking the 3 dots
    on the upper right top then clicking settings.

    https://postimg.cc/9w4WsF82

    https://postimg.cc/w7cPgYCY

    https://postimg.cc/sMTNG9fn

    https://postimg.cc/dkyHfb2X

    https://postimg.cc/jCy34rdn

    https://postimg.cc/Mn39p6tN

    https://postimg.cc/dZFBxLtk

    https://postimg.cc/SnPHtf0n

    So I need a link to download FF

    Also I couldn't find how to shut it down and I ended up
    signing out of my account which apparently was the
    Administrators Account and my usual password didn't
    work so I have to reset it. The User Account had nothing.

    I still think at present we need to focus on getting me a USENET
    on SeaMonkey so I can post and then we can come back to Win
    10 because there's time element to this and I don't want to loose
    contact.

    Robert

    OK, so you're using the MSEdge browser, which is currently
    constructed from Chromium code with some Microsoft additions to it.
    Naturally, some of the details will differ. It's still a browser
    though, just a very different one.

    *******

    Since you are on Windows 10, the Firefox browser is supported. We
    can choose the most advanced one, rather than an ESR.

    This is the starting page for browsing for a Firefox.

    http://releases.mozilla.org/pub/firefox/releases/

    The current version is 120.0.1 . You can grab an EXE installer from the page. The Menu Bar trick at the top will work, once you get set up.

    http://releases.mozilla.org/pub/firefox/releases/120.0.1/win64/en-US/

    *******

    For Seamonkey, the area inside the green color, is where you work.

    https://www.seamonkey-project.org/releases/

    Windows x64

    Download Now English (US)
    ------------

    This is the file that should result. Notice it is arranged on the website,
    with the same sort of structure as a copy of Firefox would be. It's hosted
    on Mozilla.

    https://archive.mozilla.org/pub/seamonkey/releases/2.53.18/win64/en-US/seamonkey-2.53.18.en-US.win64.installer.exe

    *******

    Using Seamonkey for USENET NEWS isn't much different. It is, after
    all, a copy of Thunderbird, just a slightly different code base.

    Real Thunderbird is SuperNova based (Javascript rewrite of sections),
    while Seamonkey is closer to older Netscape code.

    Seamonkey has the Menu Bar, right away, no fooling around.

    Seamonkey is a suite, and the tools in the tool-suite, are under "Window".

    Select Window : Mail&Newsgroups to get the Thunderbird-like thing to open.

    Then, this is the rest of the procedure for setup.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/mhWHnVLV/Seamonkey-Window-Newsgroups.gif

    I screwed up part way through and had to backtrack. That's why
    one of the images is split in half (a splice) where the pieces
    don't match. And that's because I had to erase the account and
    start again. But, lesson learned.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Dec 18 01:46:09 2023
    On 12/17/2023 7:40 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I switched the Win 7 hd back in the 780 but I
    left the Win10 hd inside instead of taking it in
    and out. The 780 has slots for (2) hd's.

    Actually, the cable has two connections on it
    as well but I don't know about connecting both
    of them at the same time with two different OS's.

    Robert


    The 780 compares its BIOS table of enabled
    SATA ports, to the number of drives. To make
    the second cable work, you'd have to switch
    that port on in the BIOS setup screen.

    You might need the popup boot later, to steer it to one
    of the two SATA cables.

    The machine doesn't have USB options. Only one USB
    should be connected if you want to boot from USB
    in the popup boot (if two USB sticks were connected,
    the 780 has no way to select one of them). As far as I know,
    the SATA drives should be dispatch-able from popup boot,
    and should work better than USB does.

    My machine here, if you have two identical drives,
    it can become "confused" and when you select
    one "Windows Boot Manager" in the menu, it ends up
    booting the wrong drive. It does not make the mistake
    with any other flavor of declaration in UEFI. But
    if two discs register a "Windows Boot Manager", it
    kinda loses its mind.

    There won't generally be harm, if the wrong drive
    booted. Not with a W7 and W10. That's likely safe (I
    have those two on the primary drive on the Test Machine).
    Mixing a WinXP with a modern OS, there could be some
    side effects (System Protection perhaps, in the
    System Volume Information folder where you can't see it).

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Dec 17 23:10:59 2023
    l'm posting this from the 780,, I installed FF

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Dec 17 23:36:17 2023
    I'm on the 8500 but as you can see from my
    previous post the 780 can post again.

    I switched hd's with the 780 again and
    found this site and clicked the FF.exe to install
    it but then it asked for my PIN number.
    with a address I do not recognize on Outlook
    and I was going to close it but then the Mozilla
    Firefox Setup dialog opened up and the previous
    screen disappeared. I didn't click anything.

    https://postimg.cc/4mspRzJ3

    https://postimg.cc/1425pSd1

    https://postimg.cc/sQ1shH92

    https://postimg.cc/0zfsH1VQ

    https://postimg.cc/9wZ3d64c

    https://postimg.cc/8f89zZZ9

    https://postimg.cc/m1NX2Bz1

    https://postimg.cc/SnKTk0yj

    https://postimg.cc/bDf4z6CM

    I skipped the pop-up, add-ons and in sync pages because
    I didn't know anything about them. Could we maybe
    go back later and see if I need to change things? I right
    clicked and clicked menu bar. So we have our
    import/export functions. I also noticed that I couldn't switch
    between users but last time I could and also I didn't
    have to enter a password whereas last time I had signed
    off, so it should have asked for it.

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Dec 18 03:33:21 2023
    On 12/16/2023 8:24 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    OIC, so the best we can hope for on the 780 is Win 10 Pro. Could
    the TPM also be the reason why the PCI card doesn't work?

    We won't know the TPM version on either the 780 or 8500 until I put
    in the Win 10 hd's. How do I check my TPM on the 8500 or 780 in
    Win 7 ?

    Are you recommending that I use In Control and download the version
    on the left in red or do I click the green download now? I wouldn't know
    how to use it. I read through it and didn't realize Microsoft had made so many changes etc. They truly don't know when to leave well enough alone.
    This would be for the 780 and 8500 Win 10 correct?

    I already have Sea Monkey installed but I don't understand the steps involved for creating a USENET in Sea Monkey although I have tried to post with O.A.I.C. and failed and Thunderbird won't let me try again because its
    grayed out when I do.

    Robert


    There is no TPM check in Windows 7. The device may show up in Device Manager, but I doubt the info in there will help. It will record an Infineon chip
    is present, but the firmware loaded into the Infineon could be TPM 2.0 or
    it could be TPM 1.0. The one chip, actually supports more than one "mode".

    When Windows 10 talks to the chip, it will query it regarding its
    interface offerings. And then you'll know how it is set up. Older
    TPM chips, would only be running a 1.0 style, as that's all they knew.
    But I was reading somewhere, the current generation, can be made to
    go backwards, if you wanted to do that.

    There's no rush for TPMs. It's merely a curiosity for Windows 11.

    A TPM can be used for Secure Boot in Windows 10. A TPM can be used
    for BitLocker. If the TPM is reset, then the services it was
    providing may end up broken. For Bitlocker, you'd likely need
    the recovery key at that point (you make a recovery key when
    setting it up, so the data won't be lost).

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Dec 18 00:46:24 2023
    I think were getting ahead of ourselves here and I already messed up
    with installing FF.

    I want to make sure I do things right from this point forward.

    Do you want me to uninstall FF then run it again and save it but again
    the 780 has no A/V .

    If you want me to proceed do I double click the download to get Seamonkey
    to install?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Dec 18 00:39:52 2023
    The 780 doesn't have any A/V scanners I thought I was
    supposed to to run it?

    Do you want me to uninstall FF?

    I started to do Seamonkey but stopped after I read your
    last post because I may be doing it wrong. I had clicked
    your link to download it and it completed but do I double
    click it or because FF is tainted now maybe I should uninstall
    it. ?

    The 780 again didn't ask for any password. I don't recall what
    I used before but it should of been what I entered when it did ask
    last time. If it asks again I'll reset it.

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Dec 18 03:24:17 2023
    On 12/18/2023 2:36 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I'm on the 8500 but as you can see from my
    previous post the 780 can post again.

    I switched hd's with the 780 again and
    found this site and clicked the FF.exe to install
    it but then it asked for my PIN number.
    with a address I do not recognize on Outlook
    and I was going to close it but then the Mozilla
    Firefox Setup dialog opened up and the previous
    screen disappeared. I didn't click anything.

    https://postimg.cc/4mspRzJ3 Win10 with MSEdge present

    https://postimg.cc/1425pSd1 Should have done SaveAs, not execute EXE on receipt.

    https://postimg.cc/sQ1shH92 Asking for a PIN, to elevate with an MSA as the account

    https://postimg.cc/0zfsH1VQ Firefox install running...

    https://postimg.cc/9wZ3d64c Firefox install running...

    https://postimg.cc/8f89zZZ9 Firefox install running...

    https://postimg.cc/m1NX2Bz1 Firefox up.

    https://postimg.cc/SnKTk0yj

    https://postimg.cc/bDf4z6CM Firefox showing GG

    I skipped the pop-up, add-ons and in sync pages because
    I didn't know anything about them. Could we maybe
    go back later and see if I need to change things? I right
    clicked and clicked menu bar. So we have our
    import/export functions. I also noticed that I couldn't switch
    between users but last time I could and also I didn't
    have to enter a password whereas last time I had signed
    off, so it should have asked for it.

    Robert


    You installed straight from the download, having MSEdge run
    the downloaded EXE. This is a bad habit to get into.

    You right-click a link on the screen and "Save As", so the
    only thing that happens in the browser, is just the downloading
    part.

    Once the file is onboard, you can run your AV scanner on it.

    When you're satisfied an item is clean, *then* you install it.
    If the account belongs to the administrator group, there would be
    a UAC dialog to click, but no passwords or pins to enter.

    When you installed the Windows 10, you must have followed the
    exhortations of Microsoft to enter an email address. I hope there
    is a *strong* password on that account, when you made that
    account with Microsoft. You don't use a "12345" password with an MSA.

    joe.bloggs@gmail.com aAbBcCdD12345*&^%$ <=== strong password for gmail as email (internet facing)

    joe.bloggs@gmail.com 1a2A3b4B$%^&zzzxyw <=== strong password on MSA for Microsoft (Win10 login)

    joe.bloggs@gmail.com 1234abcdWXYZ <=== PIN for MSA for Microsoft (Win10 login)

    That's what the PIN is for, is a local password which is easier
    to type. A PIN for an MSA, does not have to be a bank-style pin.
    It can have numbers and letters, it can have way more characters
    than a four digit bank pin.

    You're supposed to be practicing your safe hex. Running EXEs
    straight from a browser, is not safe hex.

    In the long run, Safe Hex won't save you. But at least you should try.

    When my machine got tipped over here, years ago, all I was doing was
    using a web browser, when it all went to hell. And that can happen
    at any time, to anyone. AV programs don't catch everything.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Dec 18 03:02:50 2023
    One good thing is that the Win 10 hd on the 780 is a spare Win 10 hd
    I had. I used it just in case I had problems but I still have fresh Win 10
    hd's for both computers that I haven't done anything to.

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Dec 18 08:40:12 2023
    On 12/18/2023 3:46 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I think were getting ahead of ourselves here and I already messed up
    with installing FF.

    I want to make sure I do things right from this point forward.

    Do you want me to uninstall FF then run it again and save it but again
    the 780 has no A/V .

    If you want me to proceed do I double click the download to get Seamonkey
    to install?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    You can double click the Seamonkey and install it.

    If this is Windows 10, when you booted that up for the
    first time in a long time, the network LED will flash
    while it downloads fresh Windows Defender AV definitions.

    Then, later, when you're downloading the Seamonkey EXE,
    it will be scanned.

    But, you can also manually scan an EXE file from the
    File Explorer right-click menu. Doing so, you are checking
    to "see if Windows Defender is awake". Since it just
    installed an AV update itself, it may not be fully operational,
    and doing the manual scan, is as much about checking
    the status of your defenses, as scanning the EXE itself.

    You may not think this is necessary, but I've caught
    WD asleep multiple times. It hasn't been bad lately, but
    it's had incidents in the past. That's why I do the occasional
    manual scan, just to be sure it's awake.

    *******

    One other thing to remember, is right after Patch Tuesday,
    the Windows 10 OS can "behave a bit flaky". Sometimes,
    even when a reboot is not requested, it can help clear
    up issues by doing a reboot. You don't have to turn this
    into a sporting event -- but just remember, if
    things are not behaving "normally", it's worth a try.

    Some Patch Tuesday installs, will reboot twice. The
    first operation in such a case, can be the usage of
    a temporary profile, the second reboot is the cleanup.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Dec 18 08:19:51 2023
    On 12/18/2023 3:39 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    The 780 doesn't have any A/V scanners I thought I was
    supposed to to run it?

    Do you want me to uninstall FF?

    I started to do Seamonkey but stopped after I read your
    last post because I may be doing it wrong. I had clicked
    your link to download it and it completed but do I double
    click it or because FF is tainted now maybe I should uninstall
    it. ?

    The 780 again didn't ask for any password. I don't recall what
    I used before but it should of been what I entered when it did ask
    last time. If it asks again I'll reset it.

    Thanks,
    Robert


    I just want you to be careful. There may be times you
    download from an untrusted site. And in cases like that,
    the content should be scanned.

    Windows 10 has Windows Defender in it, right after you
    install it. Windows Defender protects you, until you install
    another AV. Operating systems like Windows 7, were not
    protected in quite the same way. That's likely why you
    have an army of products on the W7 machine :-)

    In the right-click context menu in Windows 10, there would
    be a menu item to "Scan with Microsoft Defender". You can manually
    request a scan, just to be sure the product is actually running.
    I've had cases before, where I'm not sure the thing is working.
    And I've even had Windows Defender throw up a white screen
    indicating it really wasn't ready to scan.

    1) "Save as" download it.
    2) Manually scan with an AV, if you do not particularly trust the site.
    3) Double click the EXE to install.
    It will present a UAC prompt (or ask for a password),
    when it needs elevation. I prefer the UAC prompt slightly.

    I presume your question is about your Windows 10 setup on the 780.
    Yes, it does have an AV. Microsoft calls it "Microsoft Defender" this
    week, but I'll continue to call it "Windows Defender", which was
    the name last week.

    *******

    Put the EICAR string in a text file and save it.

    What happened on the Windows 10 machine when you did that ?

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EICAR_test_file

    It should register that as a malware. And quarantine the file.

    You don't have to do that right now, but you should practice
    so you know the stuff is working at some point. I find the
    response of Windows Defender annoying, but it is free...

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Dec 18 13:21:35 2023
    I clicked to download SeaMonkey and I had a Windows
    Defender pop-up during the process.

    After it finished downloading I went into File Explorer and
    right clicked it to scan downloads with Windows Defender.
    I would of never of known to do this before. Then I finished
    with the installation.

    https://postimg.cc/9rGwrBfw

    https://postimg.cc/k60D5V3y

    https://postimg.cc/hQVvQSKR

    https://postimg.cc/fJjkwTHx

    https://postimg.cc/2q35FdCw

    https://postimg.cc/dDGVBVcz

    https://postimg.cc/8jHk2X54

    https://postimg.cc/68bW37CG

    https://postimg.cc/jnhKrCs2

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Dec 18 19:49:27 2023
    On 12/18/2023 4:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I clicked to download SeaMonkey and I had a Windows
    Defender pop-up during the process.

    After it finished downloading I went into File Explorer and
    right clicked it to scan downloads with Windows Defender.
    I would of never of known to do this before. Then I finished
    with the installation.

    https://postimg.cc/9rGwrBfw Downloading Seamonkey

    https://postimg.cc/k60D5V3y windows Defender manual scan

    https://postimg.cc/hQVvQSKR Protection history

    https://postimg.cc/fJjkwTHx Setup starts...

    https://postimg.cc/2q35FdCw License

    https://postimg.cc/dDGVBVcz Standard install

    https://postimg.cc/8jHk2X54 Path option

    https://postimg.cc/68bW37CG Launch tick box

    https://postimg.cc/jnhKrCs2 Done.

    Robert


    All looks in order.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Dec 18 20:31:02 2023
    I had the password issue come up again in
    the User Account and the Admin account
    which makes me think they are both Admin
    Accounts because User Accounts don't have
    passwords but the account it was connected
    to wasn't mine. I don't recognize it at all.
    So I ended up resetting it and but for some
    reason it wouldn't open up afterwards so I
    closed it and opened the Admin Account
    and was confronted by another password
    problem but I was able to reset it.

    Hopefully that's the end of the password problem.

    Now as I see it I have to install Seamonkey
    on the 780 Win 7 and the 8500 Win 7 and
    Win 10 so all versions have it so we stay connected.

    We can go back and do the InControl and the
    EICAR in string to test etc. after we establish
    a USENET connection with Seamonkey. Do I
    just click the link you gave for EICAR? or what?

    I have to setup single click on Win 10

    I just setup SeaMonkey and have trouble at the
    end because I only selected 500 downloads but
    I typed the current post in and created a message
    but its not there. I didn't think to save the message.

    https://postimg.cc/ZWf0DK7c

    https://postimg.cc/dkNzzgMg

    https://postimg.cc/w1K3CGgt

    https://postimg.cc/gwp9bvxq

    https://postimg.cc/FYRdgLrp

    https://postimg.cc/hz91Wd7x

    https://postimg.cc/T5fqR3rs

    https://postimg.cc/XXbTZKLR

    https://postimg.cc/FY86h01n

    https://postimg.cc/xcHJs2MJ

    https://postimg.cc/HVsWM131

    I didn't think to take pics of the last steps, I
    was so wrapped up in trying to get it to work,
    but you can see I followed your instructions.

    I just closed Seamonkey because you told me
    I never needed to logoff because it's activated
    as soon as you open it. However I got this
    as if it hadn't finished. I was going to restart the
    780 anyway because it had been on for awhile.
    It's updating the 780 now and says the pc will
    restart several times.

    https://postimg.cc/5HxVFZwF

    https://postimg.cc/cgCGFwkx

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Dec 18 22:10:09 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/18/2023 4:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I clicked to download SeaMonkey and I had a Windows
    Defender pop-up during the process.

    After it finished downloading I went into File Explorer and
    right clicked it to scan downloads with Windows Defender.
    I would of never of known to do this before. Then I finished
    with the installation.

    https://postimg.cc/9rGwrBfw Downloading Seamonkey

    https://postimg.cc/k60D5V3y windows Defender manual scan

    https://postimg.cc/hQVvQSKR Protection history

    https://postimg.cc/fJjkwTHx Setup starts...

    https://postimg.cc/2q35FdCw License

    https://postimg.cc/dDGVBVcz Standard install

    https://postimg.cc/8jHk2X54 Path option

    https://postimg.cc/68bW37CG Launch tick box

    https://postimg.cc/jnhKrCs2 Done.

    Robert


    All looks in order.

    Paul



    This is a test to see if the 780
    can post.

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Dec 19 01:24:05 2023
    On 12/18/2023 11:31 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I had the password issue come up again in
    the User Account and the Admin account
    which makes me think they are both Admin
    Accounts because User Accounts don't have
    passwords but the account it was connected
    to wasn't mine. I don't recognize it at all.
    So I ended up resetting it and but for some
    reason it wouldn't open up afterwards so I
    closed it and opened the Admin Account
    and was confronted by another password
    problem but I was able to reset it.

    Hopefully that's the end of the password problem.

    Now as I see it I have to install Seamonkey
    on the 780 Win 7 and the 8500 Win 7 and
    Win 10 so all versions have it so we stay connected.

    We can go back and do the InControl and the
    EICAR in string to test etc. after we establish
    a USENET connection with Seamonkey. Do I
    just click the link you gave for EICAR? or what?

    I have to setup single click on Win 10

    I just setup SeaMonkey and have trouble at the
    end because I only selected 500 downloads but
    I typed the current post in and created a message
    but its not there. I didn't think to save the message.

    https://postimg.cc/ZWf0DK7c

    https://postimg.cc/dkNzzgMg Seamonkey main window

    https://postimg.cc/w1K3CGgt Newsgroup Account box

    https://postimg.cc/gwp9bvxq

    https://postimg.cc/FYRdgLrp

    https://postimg.cc/hz91Wd7x

    https://postimg.cc/T5fqR3rs Congratulations dialog

    https://postimg.cc/XXbTZKLR

    https://postimg.cc/FY86h01n Server setup finished

    https://postimg.cc/xcHJs2MJ Subscribe dialog

    https://postimg.cc/HVsWM131 download 500 headers

    I didn't think to take pics of the last steps, I
    was so wrapped up in trying to get it to work,
    but you can see I followed your instructions.

    I just closed Seamonkey because you told me
    I never needed to logoff because it's activated
    as soon as you open it. However I got this
    as if it hadn't finished. I was going to restart the
    780 anyway because it had been on for awhile.
    It's updating the 780 now and says the pc will
    restart several times.

    https://postimg.cc/5HxVFZwF This is 22H2 coming in. Incontrol ??? Too late ???

    https://postimg.cc/cgCGFwkx Seamonkey setup wizard

    Robert

    You can unsubscribe the group, which deletes the downloads,
    and re-subscribe to the same group. Then, when it asks
    how many to download, you can select 2000 or more.

    Access to the server you are using, requires no account
    and with no account comes no password to enter either.
    I selected this server specifically to eliminate a few
    of the steps needed for an account-based server.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Mon Dec 18 22:44:34 2023
    The 780 has restarted and I had to enter the password again.
    It's lucky I reset it because this time it took it with no
    problem. I won't use the other account anymore but I would
    like to create a User Account and delete this other one and get
    off the Admin Account. Too much damage can happen there.
    I don't like having to enter my password every time I use it.

    Once we get SeaMonkey working on all the OS then we can
    turn to the other projects you have in mind. I can also import
    my bookmarks from the 8500 and import them to the 780
    Win10. Could I copy over the existing bookmarks on Win 7
    to update them as well as My Documents?

    Well all that for later after we get the computers able to post via
    Seamonkey. That's the top priority now. My head is already
    swimming with all I had to do and can hardly remember what I
    did and what I have to do.

    I'm confused,.. didn't I want to get 22H2? See what I mean?
    Sometimes I don't know what to do like with the 500 downloads.

    One thing, the 780 had the internal mic speaker on Win 7 and it
    was OK but on Win 10 it shows no internal mic?


    By the way,
    Merry Christmas
    Robert










    _

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Dec 18 22:18:46 2023
    Robert in CA wrote:

    I had the password issue come up again in
    the User Account and the Admin account
    which makes me think they are both Admin
    Accounts because User Accounts don't have
    passwords but the account it was connected
    to wasn't mine. I don't recognize it at all.
    So I ended up resetting it and but for some
    reason it wouldn't open up afterwards so I
    closed it and opened the Admin Account
    and was confronted by another password
    problem but I was able to reset it.

    Hopefully that's the end of the password problem.

    Now as I see it I have to install Seamonkey
    on the 780 Win 7 and the 8500 Win 7 and
    Win 10 so all versions have it so we stay connected.

    We can go back and do the InControl and the
    EICAR in string to test etc. after we establish
    a USENET connection with Seamonkey. Do I
    just click the link you gave for EICAR? or what?

    I have to setup single click on Win 10

    I just setup SeaMonkey and have trouble at the
    end because I only selected 500 downloads but
    I typed the current post in and created a message
    but its not there. I didn't think to save the message.

    https://postimg.cc/ZWf0DK7c

    https://postimg.cc/dkNzzgMg

    https://postimg.cc/w1K3CGgt

    https://postimg.cc/gwp9bvxq

    https://postimg.cc/FYRdgLrp

    https://postimg.cc/hz91Wd7x

    https://postimg.cc/T5fqR3rs

    https://postimg.cc/XXbTZKLR

    https://postimg.cc/FY86h01n

    https://postimg.cc/xcHJs2MJ

    https://postimg.cc/HVsWM131

    I didn't think to take pics of the last steps, I
    was so wrapped up in trying to get it to work,
    but you can see I followed your instructions.

    I just closed Seamonkey because you told me
    I never needed to logoff because it's activated
    as soon as you open it. However I got this
    as if it hadn't finished. I was going to restart the
    780 anyway because it had been on for awhile.
    It's updating the 780 now and says the pc will
    restart several times.

    https://postimg.cc/5HxVFZwF

    https://postimg.cc/cgCGFwkx

    Robert



    It worked !!!

    Do I have to go through all the steps
    each time I post?


    OK, so the Win 10 Spymonkey is working.
    We need to do the same for the Win 7.
    Question, should I delete my current
    Spymonkey before I install the new version?

    so much to remember and do but at
    least we made it this far. Did I tell you
    that I had a Win 11 upgrade that covered
    the entire screen. I just hit escape.

    Were getting there but I have to admit its
    scary at times.

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Dec 19 01:32:52 2023
    On 12/19/2023 1:18 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
      I had the password issue come up again in
    the User Account and the Admin account
    which makes me think they are both Admin
    Accounts because User Accounts don't have
    passwords but the account it was connected
    to wasn't mine. I don't recognize it at all.
    So I ended up resetting it and but for some
    reason it wouldn't open up afterwards so I
    closed it and opened the Admin Account
    and was confronted by another password
    problem but I was able to reset it.

    Hopefully that's the end of the password problem.

    Now as I see it I have to install Seamonkey
    on the 780 Win 7  and the 8500 Win 7 and
    Win 10 so all versions have it so we stay connected.

    We can go back and do the InControl and the
    EICAR in string to test etc. after we establish
    a USENET connection with Seamonkey. Do I
    just click the link you gave for EICAR? or what?

    I have to setup single click on Win 10

    I just setup SeaMonkey and have trouble at the
    end because I only selected 500 downloads but
    I typed the current post in and created a message
    but its not there. I didn't think to save the message.

    https://postimg.cc/ZWf0DK7c

    https://postimg.cc/dkNzzgMg

    https://postimg.cc/w1K3CGgt

    https://postimg.cc/gwp9bvxq

    https://postimg.cc/FYRdgLrp

    https://postimg.cc/hz91Wd7x

    https://postimg.cc/T5fqR3rs

    https://postimg.cc/XXbTZKLR

    https://postimg.cc/FY86h01n

    https://postimg.cc/xcHJs2MJ

    https://postimg.cc/HVsWM131

    I didn't think to take pics of the last steps, I
    was so wrapped up in trying to get it to work,
    but you can see I followed your instructions.

    I just closed Seamonkey because you told me
    I never needed to logoff because it's activated
    as soon as you open it. However I got this
    as if it hadn't finished. I was going to restart the
    780 anyway because it had been on for awhile.
    It's updating the 780 now and says the pc will
    restart several times.

      https://postimg.cc/5HxVFZwF

    https://postimg.cc/cgCGFwkx

    Robert

      
    It worked !!!

    Do I have to go through all the steps
    each time I post?


    OK, so the Win 10 Spymonkey is working.
    We need to do the same for the Win 7.
    Question, should I delete my current
    Spymonkey before I install the new version?

    so much to remember and do but at
    least we made it this far. Did I tell you
    that I had a Win 11 upgrade that covered
    the entire screen. I just hit escape.

    Were getting there but I have to admit its
    scary at times.

    Robert

    You can bring your copy of Seamonkey 18 installer over
    on the Patriot stick, and use it to install. If there
    is a Seamonkey already on C: , the installer causes the
    Seamonkey to uninstall, then it installs version 18 in its
    place.

    The only reason for you to be doing manual removal, is if
    you had a 32-bit version of Seamonkey and were trying to
    install a 64-bit version in its place. You can tell by whether
    the program is in Program Files or Program Files (x86), whether
    it is 64-bit or 32-bit already.

    *******

    As for the EICAR, you attempt to "save as" the link and download
    it, and Windows Defender should pop up an alert saying it quarantined
    the file.

    The same response would happen, if you viewed the Wikipedia page about
    EICAR, and you copied the string and pasted it into a new Notepad
    session. As soon as Notepad is used to save out the string as a text file, Windows Defender scans the file as it is being saved, and it will alert
    that a malware came in. It will quarantine it, and it will not be present
    in the folder you selected for the save.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Dec 19 01:47:36 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 2023-10-11 05:28, Robert in CA wrote:
    I forgot,

    HD-Tune - http://www.hdtune.com/download.html  (click on the trial to
    download?)

    AdwCleaner - https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/adwcleaner/

    Imgeburn- http://www.oldversion.com/windows/imgburn-2-5-0-0

    Agent Ransack - https://www.mythicsoft.com/agentransack/download/

    GeForce Drivers - https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/drivers/

    Microsoft - https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download

    I'm missing a VLC player download, could you please provide one?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    There is a button on the main page, for a download.

    https://www.videolan.org/

       Paul



    I unscribed to the newsgroup and re-scribed
    to it with a limit of 7000 but it doesn't show
    the current posts.This was the nearest I could
    find. Was 7000 too high? At least with the 500
    I could see the current posts. Maybe I should
    change it back?

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Dec 19 02:11:02 2023
    You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:

    https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4

    I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
    there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
    see?

    https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy

    https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm

    https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT

    https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y

    https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0

    https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG

    https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz

    https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9

    https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW

    I also get a Macrium pop-up but its the same
    unknown account as the the other Admin Account.
    Since the 780 was a refurbished computer, I think that's
    the person's account that's on the computer now because
    I don't recognize it. That's why I didn't know the password
    and the computer didn't accept mine until I reset it.

    https://postimg.cc/N5L9Gkvt

    I should just delete Macrium and download a fresh copy
    instead of dealing with all these password/pin issues.

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Dec 19 02:26:12 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/15/2023 8:44 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I was thinking, even if I make an iso file and put it in
    downloads on the Win 10 hd and then run it, it will only
    update Win 10 not the bookmarks or My Documents.

    Is there no way of importing bookmarks to Win10?
    I still think browsing the mrimg is the only solution.
    and I need macrium to do that.

    Also can we continue this on the new thread I started?
    O.T. - Moving bookmarks and My Documents from Win 7 hd to Win 10 hd
    The posts are getting pretty long.

    Thanks.
    Robert

    Of course you can copy stuff to the new disk.

    I was hoping to come up with a scheme, so that your
    Win7 environment would be preserved.

    You can export bookmarks, and bring them places with your
    Patriot USB flash stick.

    Paul




    I keep messing up and sending to myself
    because I can't see any current posts.

    I set Seamonkey to 2000 and still couldn't
    see current posts so I unhscribed and re-scribed
    a 3rd time and set it back to 500 but the
    current posts were gone and I can't find them
    anymore. I must be doing something wrong.

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Dec 19 02:21:25 2023
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2023-10-11 05:28, Robert in CA wrote:
    I forgot,

    HD-Tune - http://www.hdtune.com/download.html  (click on the trial to
    download?)

    AdwCleaner - https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/adwcleaner/

    Imgeburn- http://www.oldversion.com/windows/imgburn-2-5-0-0

    Agent Ransack - https://www.mythicsoft.com/agentransack/download/

    GeForce Drivers - https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/drivers/

    Microsoft - https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download

    I'm missing a VLC player download, could you please provide one?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    There is a button on the main page, for a download.

    https://www.videolan.org/

        Paul



    I unscribed to the newsgroup and re-scribed
    to it with a limit of 7000 but it doesn't show
    the current posts.This was the nearest I could
    find. Was 7000 too high? At least with the 500
    I could see the current posts. Maybe I should
    change it back?

    Robert



    I set it to 2000 and still couldn't see
    the current posts, so I unscribed for a
    and re-scribed 3rd time and set it back to
    500 but still can't see current posts.


    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Dec 19 17:33:37 2023
    Are you seeing my posts from the 780?

    The problem I have now is that I cannot see
    any current posts on Seamonkey.

    Also I need to create user account but there
    doesn't seem to be a way to do so?

    Robert


    _

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Dec 19 17:43:21 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/18/2023 11:31 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I had the password issue come up again in
    the User Account and the Admin account
    which makes me think they are both Admin
    Accounts because User Accounts don't have
    passwords but the account it was connected
    to wasn't mine. I don't recognize it at all.
    So I ended up resetting it and but for some
    reason it wouldn't open up afterwards so I
    closed it and opened the Admin Account
    and was confronted by another password
    problem but I was able to reset it.

    Hopefully that's the end of the password problem.

    Now as I see it I have to install Seamonkey
    on the 780 Win 7 and the 8500 Win 7 and
    Win 10 so all versions have it so we stay connected.

    We can go back and do the InControl and the
    EICAR in string to test etc. after we establish
    a USENET connection with Seamonkey. Do I
    just click the link you gave for EICAR? or what?

    I have to setup single click on Win 10

    I just setup SeaMonkey and have trouble at the
    end because I only selected 500 downloads but
    I typed the current post in and created a message
    but its not there. I didn't think to save the message.

    https://postimg.cc/ZWf0DK7c

    https://postimg.cc/dkNzzgMg Seamonkey main window

    https://postimg.cc/w1K3CGgt Newsgroup Account box

    https://postimg.cc/gwp9bvxq

    https://postimg.cc/FYRdgLrp

    https://postimg.cc/hz91Wd7x

    https://postimg.cc/T5fqR3rs Congratulations dialog

    https://postimg.cc/XXbTZKLR

    https://postimg.cc/FY86h01n Server setup finished

    https://postimg.cc/xcHJs2MJ Subscribe dialog

    https://postimg.cc/HVsWM131 download 500 headers

    I didn't think to take pics of the last steps, I
    was so wrapped up in trying to get it to work,
    but you can see I followed your instructions.

    I just closed Seamonkey because you told me
    I never needed to logoff because it's activated
    as soon as you open it. However I got this
    as if it hadn't finished. I was going to restart the
    780 anyway because it had been on for awhile.
    It's updating the 780 now and says the pc will
    restart several times.

    https://postimg.cc/5HxVFZwF This is 22H2 coming in. Incontrol ??? Too late ???

    https://postimg.cc/cgCGFwkx Seamonkey setup wizard

    Robert

    You can unsubscribe the group, which deletes the downloads,
    and re-subscribe to the same group. Then, when it asks
    how many to download, you can select 2000 or more.

    Access to the server you are using, requires no account
    and with no account comes no password to enter either.
    I selected this server specifically to eliminate a few
    of the steps needed for an account-based server.

    Paul



    I'm trying again on Sea Monkey and this is the
    most current I could find. Also when I opened
    Seamokey this time I remembered your previous
    instructions and clicked the envelope bottom
    left to open it. Much faster and easier.


    but it still doesn't show your posts in hours/minutes,
    only mine.

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Dec 19 20:14:51 2023
    I was messing around on the 780 trying to delete macrium
    because it keeps popping up for updates on the bogus
    account that I didn't set up but it requires a pin number.
    It says I can change it but I didn't want to mess things up
    after we got this far and I would need your guidance.

    Then I wanted to check the Firewall

    https://postimg.cc/YjYtLxsM

    When I did I got pop-ups for backups and Edge and I didn't
    touch a thing and I didn't click on anything of the pop-ups.
    I just closed them until I heard from you. I had to use the
    Task Manager to close Edge.

    https://postimg.cc/0bt59y4w

    https://postimg.cc/y31BzMXj

    https://postimg.cc/SXcpYSgV

    https://postimg.cc/mthfNNdP

    I definitely want this version of macrium off the 780 and
    we can install a fresh copy.

    Also, I have to get off the Admin Account on the 780. Did you
    see my post with pics on my attempt to do so?

    As I see it once we have the 780 Win10 Sea monkey running
    then we'll do the 780 Win 7 and then the 8500 Win 7 and then the
    8500 Win 10.

    After that we should concentrate on downloading all the A/V
    suite to Win 10 on both computers,

    We can do all your tests once we get done with SeaMonkey
    and have it up and running and we can check the systems out.



    What do you think?
    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Dec 20 00:26:22 2023
    On 12/19/2023 5:21 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2023-10-11 05:28, Robert in CA wrote:
    I forgot,

    HD-Tune - http://www.hdtune.com/download.html  (click on the trial to download?)

    AdwCleaner - https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/adwcleaner/

    Imgeburn- http://www.oldversion.com/windows/imgburn-2-5-0-0

    Agent Ransack - https://www.mythicsoft.com/agentransack/download/

    GeForce Drivers - https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/drivers/

    Microsoft - https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download

    I'm missing a VLC player download, could you please provide one?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    There is a button on the main page, for a download.

    https://www.videolan.org/

        Paul



    I unscribed to the newsgroup and re-scribed
    to it with a limit of 7000 but it doesn't show
    the current posts.This was the nearest I could
    find. Was 7000 too high? At least with the 500
    I could see the current posts. Maybe I should
    change it back?

    Robert



    I set it to 2000 and still couldn't see
    the current posts, so I unscribed for a
    and re-scribed 3rd time and set it back to
    500 but still can't see current posts.


    Robert

    Can you see this new post ?

    Look for the file "paganini.bofh.team.rc"

    That is the subscription file. A subscription
    file can have multiple lines, one per newsgroup.

    Here, I made a sample file, to demonstrate with.

    Exit Thunderbird, and open that file "paganini.bofh.team.rc"

    Before

    microsoft.public.windowsxp.general: 1-24903,25319,25320
    alt.os.linux.ubuntu: 7383,7402

    After

    microsoft.public.windowsxp.general: 1-1 <=== reset the record
    alt.os.linux.ubuntu: 7383,7402 <=== I didn't change this one

    Save and start up Thunderbird again.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Tue Dec 19 23:01:31 2023
    yes, I can see this post from you,


    You mean SeaMonkey not Thunderbird, don't
    you?

    I logged back into the 780 and it gave me this:

    https://postimg.cc/cKLS1XTh

    I tried to close it with Task Manager but it wouldn't
    let me. So I clicked remind me in 3 days. Should I
    click continue next time? See what I mean? All this
    crap is getting in the way of finishing Sea Monkey
    and more to do.

    I'm all confused and Sea Monkey is messed up nothing
    is working and I tried to create a new USENET with
    paganini. bofh.team.rc but it didn't connect.

    https://postimg.cc/tZ6m960D

    https://postimg.cc/64wzw1f5

    https://postimg.cc/1f7TcsKG

    https://postimg.cc/kV3Tf4Rb

    https://postimg.cc/vg6HM0Hj


    What do I do now?

    Robert






    _

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Dec 20 02:24:38 2023
    On 12/19/2023 1:44 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    The 780 has restarted and I had to enter the password again.
    It's lucky I reset it because this time it took it with no
    problem. I won't use the other account anymore but I would
    like to create a User Account and delete this other one and get
    off the Admin Account. Too much damage can happen there.
    I don't like having to enter my password every time I use it.

    Once we get SeaMonkey working on all the OS then we can
    turn to the other projects you have in mind. I can also import
    my bookmarks from the 8500 and import them to the 780
    Win10. Could I copy over the existing bookmarks on Win 7
    to update them as well as My Documents?

    Well all that for later after we get the computers able to post via Seamonkey. That's the top priority now. My head is already
    swimming with all I had to do and can hardly remember what I
    did and what I have to do.

    I'm confused,.. didn't I want to get 22H2? See what I mean?
    Sometimes I don't know what to do like with the 500 downloads.

    One thing, the 780 had the internal mic speaker on Win 7 and it
    was OK but on Win 10 it shows no internal mic?

    By the way,
    Merry Christmas
    Robert

    If you cannot find the Control Panels in Windows 10, right-click the
    Start icon, and in the Run box enter "control". When the control panel
    starts running, go to its icon on the Taskbar and right click and
    select "pin to taskbar". That will make it easier to find later.

    while the Settings wheel likely has the user accounts, the Control Panel
    has User Accounts too. Select "Manage another account" to see what
    accounts are on the machine.

    If a refurb was refurbished by JoySystems, there would be no foreign user accounts on it. You would be defining the first and only account,
    on booting the machine the first time.

    If you're buying the machine from a smaller operation (like the computer
    store downtown that does refurbs right in the shop), then those are likely
    to have a shop owner account or similar.

    Since I got a Win7 Refurbisher DVD with mine, I could reinstall with it.
    But as near as I could determine by studying it, the media is very similar
    to a Retail DVD. At least in the case of Windows 7, I could reinstall
    and remove the shop version of OS and start from scratch.

    The difference on Win10, is the license is stored in the cloud. If you got
    a Win7 machine, there would be a license key. Microsoft does not provide a
    COA sticker in the refurbisher kit, but you can use MAgical Jelly Bean
    or Nirsoft Produkey, to obtain the license key. Now that the Free Upgrade is over with, the Win7 license key doesn't have as much long-term value as it
    once did. Once the Win10 disk has been prepared once, the Win7 key is unlikely to be used again on the machine. (Except if you were installing Win7 clean
    o the machine for some reason.)

    If you had "prepared a Win10 disk" using a brand new disk drive, a couple years ago, how did that MSA account get on that disk ??? Did you install Win10-over-Win7
    and pick up that account from the original Win7 Refurbisher hard drive ?

    I could understand if you bought the machine and it came with Win10, then
    a foreign account could be in there.

    You have to keep at least one administrator or administrator-group account
    on there, in order to not lose control. As long as one of your accounts
    has administrator, then you should be able to remove the foreign account.

    *******

    At one time, you could have a password defined, and set up the machine so
    that entering the password was not necessary at startup. But the latest versions of Windows 10 removed that, and either a password or a PIN is required.
    There is a prompt that comes up every three days, and among the "few things to setup"
    in the dialog, will be a request to set up a PIN.

    It used to be " control userpasswords2 " that provided the dialog for passwordless login.
    But any subsequent attempts to use the account for authentication, would still require
    a password. Only an "empty" password allows easier operation, and the "empty" password
    idea may not work with File Sharing.

    As a general principle, once the OS removes an "easy" option, it isn't coming back.

    *******

    You know how to work the Bookmark interface now, and if you want to copy over your
    Documents, I don't see why that would fail to work. If the machine is dirty, then
    you would not want to copy the materials into the foreign account home directory
    (which you may soon be removing).

    Just don't lose the administrator capability. The hacks now for hacking into the
    W10 setup, are more limited than in the past. If Microsoft wanted to make a concerted
    effort, they could close all of them. When a password is in the Cloud, the chances of
    cracking it are very low. Local accounts, where the password string is on the disk,
    Kali can attempt to crack those. The only problem I had with that, is I could not
    get the video card to assist in cracking. The dialog said it would take 12 years or so,
    to crack the password (I wasn't using a dictionary attack, because my dictionary
    wasn't good enough, it was only 8 GB). Replacing a password, is easier than cracking
    a password. you can replace a user password, as administrator, but what replaces
    an administrator password ?

    *******

    It could be a driver problem that is causing the microphone issue. I don't
    know anything about the hardware. Some OEM machines, have a 2 watt analog power amp
    for the speakers, but are otherwise more or less bog standard. And the powered output
    on those machines, did not require a custom driver.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Dec 20 03:20:11 2023
    On 12/20/2023 2:01 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    yes, I can see this post from you,


    You mean SeaMonkey not Thunderbird, don't
    you?

    I logged back into the 780 and it gave me this:

    https://postimg.cc/cKLS1XTh

    I tried to close it with Task Manager but it wouldn't
    let me. So I clicked remind me in 3 days. Should I
    click continue next time? See what I mean? All this
    crap is getting in the way of finishing Sea Monkey
    and more to do.

    I'm all confused and Sea Monkey is messed up nothing
    is working and I tried to create a new USENET with
    paganini. bofh.team.rc but it didn't connect.

    https://postimg.cc/tZ6m960D # Need to use Notepad for this

    https://postimg.cc/64wzw1f5

    https://postimg.cc/1f7TcsKG

    https://postimg.cc/kV3Tf4Rb # account actions, remove that

    https://postimg.cc/vg6HM0Hj

    What do I do now?

    Robert

    https://postimg.cc/cKLS1XTh # "Remind me in three days"

    You can try dismissing by pressing alt-f4, but you can
    also just click the "remind me in three days" to make it go away
    temporarily.

    The longer term fix is a Notification setting, seen here.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/HLvDvVjB/remind-me-in-3-days.gif

    *******

    https://postimg.cc/tZ6m960D # You were supposed to use Notepad

    In Agent Ransack, you can scan the C: drive for paganini.bofh.team.rc
    which is a text file.

    It's in the Seamonkey profile, in News folder.
    The reason I wanted you to find it with Agent Ransack, is to avoid
    having to enter the path. The thing is, Seamonkey, in the "server" settings
    for that server, has a path string in the "server settings" for the
    "location of the newsrc file". That string points right at it.
    Your user account name, the profile folder random string, need to be
    modified to make mine work.

    # (Seamonkey exited...)

    notepad C:\Users\Rob\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\ABCD1234.default\News\paganini.bofh.team.rc

    *******

    https://postimg.cc/kV3Tf4Rb # remove this

    Highlight the string ending in .rc there, as it's not an account.

    Use "View Settings for this account", then "Remove Account" to remove
    the bogus entry.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Dec 20 04:49:43 2023
    On 12/20/2023 2:01 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    What do I do now?

    Robert

    You mentioned having trouble with User Accounts ?

    I looked through the list of posts and I don't
    see a post like that here.

    I compared the thread count on GG versus Paganini
    and GG was 295 and Paganini was 278. It looks like
    some might have been missed. I copied all the text from
    GG for later.

    This one for example, inability to access the second drive,
    while booted from the first drive. If the user account
    on the boot drive is the ordinary user, then you'll be denied.
    If the user account on the boot drive being used is a
    member of the administrator group, you'll be able to get
    into the users folders on the second drive.

    https://postimg.cc/YL7sFcv5

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Dec 20 04:45:38 2023
    Here is the post again




    You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:

    https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4

    I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
    there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
    see?

    https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy

    https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm

    https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT

    https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y

    https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0

    https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG

    https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz

    https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9

    https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Dec 20 04:42:41 2023
    The 780 doesn't have Agent Ransack, I haven't moved
    my bookmarks or my documents or downloaded anything
    except FF.

    So I grabbed the link to download it onto the 780 via Patriot
    and the other account that's logged into everything wouldn't
    let me install Agent Ransack without a Pin number. Should I go
    ahead and reset the damn thing because its interfering with
    everything I'm trying to do. I can't move forward because
    of all these pop-ups and problems while time is running out.

    https://postimg.cc/k611jDzP

    https://postimg.cc/JDGSJ94q

    https://postimg.cc/7fgdg1Dp

    https://postimg.cc/Q99nV10Y

    https://postimg.cc/rKLYFdWg

    https://postimg.cc/bGdmF1cY

    I also need to get off this Admin Account

    when you say remove this are you saying not use it or are
    you saying unsubscribe?

    I'm trying to follow your instructions,....

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Dec 20 04:59:57 2023
    I moved the string to a .txt file and saved it in notebook on the 780.

    Robert




    _

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Dec 20 09:21:49 2023
    On 12/20/2023 7:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    The 780 doesn't have Agent Ransack, I haven't moved
    my bookmarks or my documents or downloaded anything
    except FF.

    So I grabbed the link to download it onto the 780 via Patriot
    and the other account that's logged into everything wouldn't
    let me install Agent Ransack without a Pin number. Should I go
    ahead and reset the damn thing because its interfering with
    everything I'm trying to do. I can't move forward because
    of all these pop-ups and problems while time is running out.

    https://postimg.cc/k611jDzP

    https://postimg.cc/JDGSJ94q

    https://postimg.cc/7fgdg1Dp

    https://postimg.cc/Q99nV10Y

    https://postimg.cc/rKLYFdWg

    https://postimg.cc/bGdmF1cY

    I also need to get off this Admin Account

    when you say remove this are you saying not use it or are
    you saying unsubscribe?

    I'm trying to follow your instructions,....

    Robert


    I have a feeling, based on your comment, that you don't have
    an administrator account that you control.

    If the only administrator account is PIN protected, you'll never
    be able to do stuff like this. You have to possess a working
    administrator, to spin up more administrator group accounts.
    Trying this, will just end up with the PIN request, one way or another.

    net user administrator /active:yes

    If this is the case, then you'd need to hack your way into the thing.

    *******

    [Picture] I tested a method. Here, adding TEMP acct, without needing the foreigner PIN

    https://i.postimg.cc/cCvkCVtd/added-temp-administrators-account.gif

    This is the web site I used for the hack.

    https://4sysops.com/archives/reset-windows-10-password-by-disabling-windows-defender/

    The hack consists of using the Repair : Troubleshoot : Command Prompt on
    a Win10 installer DVD, to carry out the replacement of "sethc.exe" with "cmd.exe".
    This gives you permission to copy files in a sensitive area.

    Then, by shift-restarting and selecting Safe Mode, that allows the computer
    to come up without Windows Defender running and ruining the hack. Pressing
    the shift key five times in quick succession, triggers sticky keys,
    sethc.exe tries to run, but since it has been replaced with
    a copy of cmd.exe, the cmd.exe runs, and it is running as administrator.
    From the Command Prompt window, we can...

    NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
    NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators

    And that makes a new account belonging to the administrators group.
    And it's all done without a PIN.

    Later, you replace the fake "sethc.exe" with a copy of the real "sethc.exe".
    I had to do that from the Windows 10 installer and Command Prompt, as well. Doing it from the booted system, it likely would have needed TrustedInstaller.

    As long as you are physically present in front of a computer,
    you can get in. If you take a hacking course (like one of the
    guys at my work), you can get in. Not only did the course
    teach hacking. You sit in a room with other hackers, and
    *speed* is tested. The idea is, you try to tip over your opponents
    computer, before he tips over yours (remotely, on the same subnet).
    There's a bunch of computers and tables in a row, so you can look at
    the face of your opponent, when his computer is tipped over :-)
    Our guy wasn't a delinquent, so I didn't have to worry about
    "jokes to be played" and so on. We had to take at least one course
    per year from the company list, and that's the one Mike selected.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Dec 20 10:01:58 2023
    On 12/20/2023 7:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Here is the post again




    You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:

    https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4

    I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
    there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
    see?

    https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy

    https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm

    https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT

    https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y

    https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0

    https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG

    https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz

    https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9

    https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW

    Robert

    control /name Microsoft.UserAccounts

    Then "Manage Another Account" to see the accounts that already exist [useful!] .

    At the bottom of that page in light blue tiny letters, is "add a new user".
    But it vectors off to the new crap. [Not good]

    *******

    But you can already see what the solution is.

    You need to open an administrators window.
    Once you have hacked the machine, you will have such an account.

    NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
    NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators

    That makes an account TEMP which belongs to administrator group.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Dec 20 11:05:42 2023
    There's two Admin Accounts, there's mine and
    another by the name of John. I have no idea
    where it came from. That's the Admin Account that's
    interfering with everything.

    As I said, the guy who refurbished the 780 or who did
    Win 10 upgrade put his account on all this I believe. I
    guess they didn't expect anyone to do what were doing
    and that's why all the pin numbers.

    You lost me,...even after I re-read your instructions,..
    all I got was you want me to go into safe mode. All
    this sounds very tricky,...and I'm getting confused at
    just what to do and where. I"m trying to follow along.

    btw I have another 780 Win 10 hd that may not be screwed
    up. We could put that in and see if it downloads the Agent
    Ransack without doing anything else.

    What do you think? What do you want me to do ?

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Dec 20 11:52:13 2023
    Here's my available hd's again

    List of hard drives

    8500

    • 8500 original 1TB hd Win 7 Pro
    • spare WD 2 TB, 64 bit hd - 8500 external hd (replaced with 6 TB hd)
    • spare bootable Seagate 2TB, 64 bit hd for 8500 with Win 7
    • Seagate 6 TB external hd - (simple volume with just mrimgs folder)


    780

    • 780 Win 7 Pro#2 (2TB hd)
    • spare Seagate 2TB, 64 bit hd - 780 external hd (replaced with 6 TB hd) • spare bootable Seagate 2TB , 64 bit hd for 780 with Win 7
    • Seagate 6 TB external hd (simple volume with just mrimgs folder)



    Win 10

    • bootable Seagate 2TB, 64 bit hd for 8500 with Win 10
    • bootable Seagate 2TB, 64 bit hd for 780 with Win 10
    • spare 780 Win 10 (bootable?) <--------- were working on this hd

    misc

    • System X 300 GB hd - 780 original hd?
    • Seagate 2TB hd - bad

    At present, we on the spare spare 780 Win 10 hd but I have another
    780 Win 10 hd that we could try if you want. I would have to
    download FF and scan it with Windows Defender then install it
    then repeat the process with Agent Ransack. If all goes well then
    we can move forward. Otherwise it will have the same problems
    as the present hd.

    I just realized it didn't have a problem when we downloaded and
    installed FF so why should it have a problem with Agent Ransack?

    I also have spare 780 Win 7 hd's

    Robert




    _

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Dec 20 19:03:10 2023
    On 12/20/2023 2:05 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    There's two Admin Accounts, there's mine and
    another by the name of John. I have no idea
    where it came from. That's the Admin Account that's
    interfering with everything.

    As I said, the guy who refurbished the 780 or who did
    Win 10 upgrade put his account on all this I believe. I
    guess they didn't expect anyone to do what were doing
    and that's why all the pin numbers.

    You lost me,...even after I re-read your instructions,..
    all I got was you want me to go into safe mode. All
    this sounds very tricky,...and I'm getting confused at
    just what to do and where. I"m trying to follow along.

    btw I have another 780 Win 10 hd that may not be screwed
    up. We could put that in and see if it downloads the Agent
    Ransack without doing anything else.

    What do you think? What do you want me to do ?

    Robert


    I was addressing a situation, where you had no Administrator
    account, except the PIN-protected one (where you did not have the PIN).

    If you have a Rob account belonging to administrators, none of
    that is necessary.

    You can remove the other account, using your administrator powers.

    You can see in my example in that post, that I could log in as TEMP
    and erase Bullwinkle account, or I could log in as Bullwinkle and
    erase the TEMP account.

    https://i.postimg.cc/cCvkCVtd/added-temp-administrators-account.gif

    When you see the login screen, the accounts suitable for login,
    should be on the left of the screen (when there are multiple of them).
    You can select an account, and then enter the password or PIN
    (whatever it says to enter, on the screen).

    It's just that you were showing repeated lacks of an administrator
    account, so I assumed you were locked out of administrator.

    As long as you know where to select the Rob account at login time,
    there should not be any more "PIN to elevate" messes.

    And logging in as Rob the Administrator, you should be able to make
    a Rob2 account which is un-elevated. That's if you want to run that way.
    There would be three accounts on the side of the screen at login,
    if this was your account setup. if you cannot get the stupid GUI to offer
    the option, you can make a Rob2 from command line.

    foreign-account Rob Rob2
    Administrators administrators

    NET USER Rob2 Rob2PasswordGoesHere /ADD # Make a Rob2, without using GUI

    And without the second line to make Rob2 a member of the Administrators
    group, it will remain un-elevated.

    The recipe for adding an elevated user like the Rob account (the center one), goes like this.

    NET USER Rob RobPasswordGoesHere /ADD

    NET LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /add # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators

    For removal, it's better to use a GUI for that. They use a legacy
    interface "lusrmgr.msc" here, as one example. Using the GUI, you can
    clean up the profile folder of that account at the same time (delete it).

    https://www.technig.com/remove-user-profile-correctly/

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Dec 20 20:49:28 2023
    When I logon it doesn't show the other accounts
    but I have seen them during this process when I
    inadvertently signed out of the original account
    when I couldn't figure out to logoff . It only asks
    for my password now on the 780 and I had to reset
    it because I had signed out.

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Dec 20 20:41:13 2023
    The hack consists of using the Repair : Troubleshoot : Command Prompt on
    a Win10 installer DVD, to carry out the replacement of "sethc.exe" with "cmd.exe".
    This gives you permission to copy files in a sensitive area.

    Then, by shift-restarting and selecting Safe Mode, that allows the computer
    to come up without Windows Defender running and ruining the hack. Pressing
    the shift key five times in quick succession, triggers sticky keys,
    sethc.exe tries to run, but since it has been replaced with
    a copy of cmd.exe, the cmd.exe runs, and it is running as administrator.
    From the Command Prompt window, we can...

    NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
    NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators

    And that makes a new account belonging to the administrators group.
    And it's all done without a PIN.

    Later, you replace the fake "sethc.exe" with a copy of the real "sethc.exe".
    I had to do that from the Windows 10 installer and Command Prompt, as well. Doing it from the booted system, it likely would have needed TrustedInstaller.


    I'm trying to follow along where I'm suppose to do the NET USER TEMP
    and NET LOCAL GROUP,... I don't have a Win 10 installer DVD.

    net user administrator /active:yes

    Where do I find this out?

    I tried to go in and view the user accounts
    to see where we stand but there was no manage
    accounts and then I tried the CMD prompt.
    Does this help?


    https://postimg.cc/yDBTSG7Z

    https://postimg.cc/Q9pt5f8F

    https://postimg.cc/K4D7hNPc

    Robert


    _

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Dec 20 23:00:18 2023
    If I signed out of my account on the
    780 then I would probably see the
    other accounts but that Admin utility
    that it showed on the CMD prompt
    was the first time I had seen it.

    It shows me as just a User

    The other user is the same one with all the pin
    number pop-ups and I keep getting backup
    pop-ups, and macrium updates all running off
    his account because I tried to remove Macrium
    but it required a pin number because I'm not a
    Admin Account like I thought I was.

    You want me to do this on the CMD prompt?

    I agree, I do not want to be on Admin Account
    which is why I wanted to create a User Account
    but in effect that's what were doing.

    I just tried to do a CMD prompt as Administrator
    and it again asked for the pin number.

    How about this. Why don't I try and reset the pin
    number like I did the password otherwise we aren't
    going to be able to do anything. Somehow everything
    is tied up with this other user account and its pin
    number. So let me reset it.

    Once you say OK then I can should be able to do
    everything you want me to do.

    Robert




    _

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Dec 20 23:10:43 2023
    The other option is to change hd's and put the other 780 Win 10 hd in
    and see if it has the same problems or is OK and we can use it and set
    up a User Account on it. I would first have to download FF, then Agent Ransack, SeaMonkey and then we should be set to go.

    But it should have Edge OS on it just like the current 780 did but
    I wouldn't of signed off of it so there should be no passwords. It should
    be like you say showing which Account you want to log into just like Win
    7 and your link with Bullwinkle and yes I understand those accounts could
    each delete one another because they are both Admin but I'm just a User
    on the 780.

    The only way around the problem as I see it is to let me change the pin
    number. We can always try the other hd later.

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Dec 21 01:38:58 2023
    On 12/20/2023 11:41 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    The hack consists of using the Repair : Troubleshoot : Command Prompt on
    a Win10 installer DVD, to carry out the replacement of "sethc.exe" with "cmd.exe".
    This gives you permission to copy files in a sensitive area.

    Then, by shift-restarting and selecting Safe Mode, that allows the computer to come up without Windows Defender running and ruining the hack. Pressing the shift key five times in quick succession, triggers sticky keys,
    sethc.exe tries to run, but since it has been replaced with
    a copy of cmd.exe, the cmd.exe runs, and it is running as administrator.
    From the Command Prompt window, we can...

    NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
    NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators

    And that makes a new account belonging to the administrators group.
    And it's all done without a PIN.

    Later, you replace the fake "sethc.exe" with a copy of the real "sethc.exe". I had to do that from the Windows 10 installer and Command Prompt, as well. Doing it from the booted system, it likely would have needed TrustedInstaller.


    I'm trying to follow along where I'm suppose to do the NET USER TEMP
    and NET LOCAL GROUP,... I don't have a Win 10 installer DVD.

    net user administrator /active:yes

    Where do I find this out?

    I tried to go in and view the user accounts
    to see where we stand but there was no manage
    accounts and then I tried the CMD prompt.
    Does this help?


    https://postimg.cc/yDBTSG7Z

    https://postimg.cc/Q9pt5f8F

    https://postimg.cc/K4D7hNPc

    Robert

    You can list the details of each account.

    net user administrator

    Account active No # The account exists, but it is not turned on

    net user bullwinkle # Used for file sharing.

    Account active Yes
    Local Group Memberships *Users

    net user myLoginName # How the machine is administered.

    Account active Yes
    Local Group Memberships *Administrators *Users

    Yes, you can learn things about the accounts that way.
    For the last one, it makes no mention the account is
    an MSA (cloud account). But the user is a member of the
    administrators.

    *******

    This command (likely to need administrator terminal window)...

    net user administrator /active:yes # Turns on the account, which is normally off.
    net user administrator * # This prompts for a new password twice. Write this down!
    # If using this account some time, you will need the password.
    # The login menu will have a new "administrator"
    # on the left of the screen, as a login option, if you do this.

    That would change the status of the (real) administrator account to active. There would be a home directory. It should have a password set.
    There is no particular need to turn on that account. The machine
    is perfectly in control with myLoginName.

    That's to show that, yes, the machine has a real administrator,
    but it isn't needed.

    If you were to login as the "real administrator", you would be
    elevated at all times, and this is bad for security. If you
    were to run Firefox, Firefox would be running as administrator.

    So while some people like this idea, it's not a good idea.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Dec 21 01:39:41 2023
    I was thinking, instead of spending more time on the
    780 Win 10 hd, we should start fresh and switch back
    to the 780 Win 7 hd and set it up. It has a Admin Account
    and a User Account so there should be no problems.

    I'm worried about the time element and were spending
    too much time on the 780 Win 10 in trying to get it to
    work.

    Once we have the Win 7 OS's set up on the 780 and 8500
    and abe to post via Seamonkey then we can return to the
    Win 10 OS and get them to work.

    Our main priority is to get SeaMonkey to work so we
    don't loose communication.

    What do you think?
    Robert




    _

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Dec 21 01:36:54 2023
    I was thinking, instead of spending more time on the
    780 Win 10 hd, we should start fresh and switch back
    to the 780 Win 7 hd and set it up. It has a Admin Account
    and a User Account so there should be no problems. It
    also has Agent Ransack and a older version of Seamonkey.

    I'm worried about the time element and were spending
    too much time on the 780 Win 10 in trying to get it to
    work and time is running out.

    Once we have the Win 7 OS's set up on the 780 and 8500
    and able to post via Seamonkey then we can return to the
    Win 10 OS's and spend more time and get them to work.

    Our main priority is to get SeaMonkey to work so we
    don't loose communication and the Win 7 OS is our best
    chance of doing that.

    What do you think?
    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Dec 21 05:02:36 2023
    On 12/21/2023 2:10 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    The other option is to change hd's and put the other 780 Win 10 hd in
    and see if it has the same problems or is OK and we can use it and set
    up a User Account on it. I would first have to download FF, then Agent Ransack, SeaMonkey and then we should be set to go.

    But it should have Edge OS on it just like the current 780 did but
    I wouldn't of signed off of it so there should be no passwords. It should
    be like you say showing which Account you want to log into just like Win
    7 and your link with Bullwinkle and yes I understand those accounts could each delete one another because they are both Admin but I'm just a User
    on the 780.

    The only way around the problem as I see it is to let me change the pin number. We can always try the other hd later.

    Robert


    "see it is to let me change the pin"

    He will likely get an email, indicating someone is changing that password.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Dec 21 05:01:11 2023
    On 12/21/2023 2:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    If I signed out of my account on the
    780 then I would probably see the
    other accounts but that Admin utility
    that it showed on the CMD prompt
    was the first time I had seen it.

    It shows me as just a User

    The other user is the same one with all the pin
    number pop-ups and I keep getting backup
    pop-ups, and macrium updates all running off
    his account because I tried to remove Macrium
    but it required a pin number because I'm not a
    Admin Account like I thought I was.

    You want me to do this on the CMD prompt?

    I agree, I do not want to be on Admin Account
    which is why I wanted to create a User Account
    but in effect that's what were doing.

    I just tried to do a CMD prompt as Administrator
    and it again asked for the pin number.

    How about this. Why don't I try and reset the pin
    number like I did the password otherwise we aren't
    going to be able to do anything. Somehow everything
    is tied up with this other user account and its pin
    number. So let me reset it.

    Once you say OK then I can should be able to do
    everything you want me to do.

    Robert

    The reset for the foreign MSA account, is going to go to
    his email address. The recovery won't be delivered to you.

    You still need to review your accounts carefully, to see
    if *any* Rob account belongs to the administrators group.

    I'm still not convinced you're in control of this OS.
    You can't reset his PIN, unless you have access to his
    email account.

    *******

    You can do a clean install of Windows 10 and start all over again.
    The OS will license itself. and you will go through the
    account process again. The first account made, will belong
    to the administrators account.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/1950-clean-install-windows-10-a.html

    Microsoft is full of tricks. For example:

    https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/220242d1547055749-clean-install-windows-10-a-msa-1.jpg

    https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/254328d1573398880-clean-install-windows-10-a-local_2c.png

    You want "Offline account" in the lower-left corner.

    In this one, it's the reverse sense, the lower-left corner is the
    one to avoid, as the dialog is actually making a local account.

    *******

    The idea is, you make a local account first. If you want to add an MSA
    to the machine, you can do that as a later signup step. When you do that,
    the home directory name (in my case C:\user\bullwinkle) is defined by the
    local account, and the MSA cannot then "steer" the name to something
    stupid, like five letters extracted from your MSA email address.

    That's why there is all the fuss about making the local account. So you
    get your choice of name, and not Microsofts force-constructed name.

    *******

    If you don't want to do a Clean Install, then you can hack the machine,
    using the article I showed you.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Dec 21 05:05:04 2023
    On 12/21/2023 4:36 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I was thinking, instead of spending more time on the
    780 Win 10 hd, we should start fresh and switch back
    to the 780 Win 7 hd and set it up. It has a Admin Account
    and a User Account so there should be no problems. It
    also has Agent Ransack and a older version of Seamonkey.

    I'm worried about the time element and were spending
    too much time on the 780 Win 10 in trying to get it to
    work and time is running out.

    Once we have the Win 7 OS's set up on the 780 and 8500
    and able to post via Seamonkey then we can return to the
    Win 10 OS's and spend more time and get them to work.

    Our main priority is to get SeaMonkey to work so we
    don't loose communication and the Win 7 OS is our best
    chance of doing that.

    What do you think?
    Robert


    But you have a working setup from that perspective. Put
    a label on the drive "working communications" and that's
    what the drive is for. If you can post properly on it,
    then that's your non-GG communication solution.

    You had a Seamonkey working at one point. Is it still working ?

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Dec 21 05:28:36 2023
    On 12/21/2023 4:39 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I was thinking, instead of spending more time on the
    780 Win 10 hd, we should start fresh and switch back
    to the 780 Win 7 hd and set it up. It has a Admin Account
    and a User Account so there should be no problems.

    I'm worried about the time element and were spending
    too much time on the 780 Win 10 in trying to get it to
    work.

    Once we have the Win 7 OS's set up on the 780 and 8500
    and abe to post via Seamonkey then we can return to the
    Win 10 OS and get them to work.

    Our main priority is to get SeaMonkey to work so we
    don't loose communication.

    What do you think?
    Robert

    They make software for brute-forcing the pin, but it
    doesn't work if the TPM was used as part of the PIN setup.
    When I set up a PIN on this machine, there is no evidence
    the TPM was used for that. (A TPM has internal protected
    storage for assets.)

    https://www.passcape.com/windows_password_recovery_windows_hello_pin_recovery

    I mean, it's a bit silly concept, but someone thinks they have
    the code to do it. The last time I tried to crack a password with
    free software, it said it would take 12 or 13 years to do it
    (long password).

    https://www.passcape.com/images/windows_hello_pin3.png

    If you tried to force it through the normal login dialog...

    "The TPM protects against a variety of known and potential attacks,
    including PIN brute-force attacks. After too many incorrect guesses,
    the device is locked."

    But the machine probably does not have a TPM 2.0 so who knows
    whether the OS used the older TPM at all, for anything on the 780.

    These guys are good at it. On a 780, the PIN might well not be protected
    by the TPM. If your Windows 10 machine has no functional TPM, then the
    string needing cracking is in the SAM registry.

    https://blog.elcomsoft.com/2022/08/windows-hello-no-tpm-no-security/

    *******

    While that's all amusing, let's get back to business.

    You know how to set up Seamonkey now, and it won't take long to do
    it on Windows 7. Your email should be on a separate piece of software,
    and Seamonkey will just be for USENET News.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 21 02:52:54 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/21/2023 4:39 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I was thinking, instead of spending more time on the
    780 Win 10 hd, we should start fresh and switch back
    to the 780 Win 7 hd and set it up. It has a Admin Account
    and a User Account so there should be no problems.

    I'm worried about the time element and were spending
    too much time on the 780 Win 10 in trying to get it to
    work.

    Once we have the Win 7 OS's set up on the 780 and 8500
    and abe to post via Seamonkey then we can return to the
    Win 10 OS and get them to work.

    Our main priority is to get SeaMonkey to work so we
    don't loose communication.

    What do you think?
    Robert

    They make software for brute-forcing the pin, but it
    doesn't work if the TPM was used as part of the PIN setup.
    When I set up a PIN on this machine, there is no evidence
    the TPM was used for that. (A TPM has internal protected
    storage for assets.)

    https://www.passcape.com/windows_password_recovery_windows_hello_pin_recovery

    I mean, it's a bit silly concept, but someone thinks they have
    the code to do it. The last time I tried to crack a password with
    free software, it said it would take 12 or 13 years to do it
    (long password).

    https://www.passcape.com/images/windows_hello_pin3.png

    If you tried to force it through the normal login dialog...

    "The TPM protects against a variety of known and potential attacks,
    including PIN brute-force attacks. After too many incorrect guesses,
    the device is locked."

    But the machine probably does not have a TPM 2.0 so who knows
    whether the OS used the older TPM at all, for anything on the 780.

    These guys are good at it. On a 780, the PIN might well not be protected
    by the TPM. If your Windows 10 machine has no functional TPM, then the
    string needing cracking is in the SAM registry.

    https://blog.elcomsoft.com/2022/08/windows-hello-no-tpm-no-security/

    *******

    While that's all amusing, let's get back to business.

    You know how to set up Seamonkey now, and it won't take long to do
    it on Windows 7. Your email should be on a separate piece of software,
    and Seamonkey will just be for USENET News.

    Paul

    OK,.... I am able to post to you via
    the 780 Seamonkey.

    However if we do a clean install it
    will wipe out everything we've done.

    Please dont give me too much credit
    for knowing how to do things. this
    is all new for me and all technical
    and I have a hard time trying to
    remember. I'm trying to follow what you
    what to do.

    I'm still worried about the time element
    but do you want me to do a clean install
    since I can't hack the machine because it
    asked for the pin number when I tried to open a
    CMD prompt as Administrator.


    Robert



    _

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 21 02:42:45 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/21/2023 4:39 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I was thinking, instead of spending more time on the
    780 Win 10 hd, we should start fresh and switch back
    to the 780 Win 7 hd and set it up. It has a Admin Account
    and a User Account so there should be no problems.

    I'm worried about the time element and were spending
    too much time on the 780 Win 10 in trying to get it to
    work.

    Once we have the Win 7 OS's set up on the 780 and 8500
    and abe to post via Seamonkey then we can return to the
    Win 10 OS and get them to work.

    Our main priority is to get SeaMonkey to work so we
    don't loose communication.

    What do you think?
    Robert

    They make software for brute-forcing the pin, but it
    doesn't work if the TPM was used as part of the PIN setup.
    When I set up a PIN on this machine, there is no evidence
    the TPM was used for that. (A TPM has internal protected
    storage for assets.)

    https://www.passcape.com/windows_password_recovery_windows_hello_pin_recovery

    I mean, it's a bit silly concept, but someone thinks they have
    the code to do it. The last time I tried to crack a password with
    free software, it said it would take 12 or 13 years to do it
    (long password).

    https://www.passcape.com/images/windows_hello_pin3.png

    If you tried to force it through the normal login dialog...

    "The TPM protects against a variety of known and potential attacks,
    including PIN brute-force attacks. After too many incorrect guesses,
    the device is locked."

    But the machine probably does not have a TPM 2.0 so who knows
    whether the OS used the older TPM at all, for anything on the 780.

    These guys are good at it. On a 780, the PIN might well not be protected
    by the TPM. If your Windows 10 machine has no functional TPM, then the
    string needing cracking is in the SAM registry.

    https://blog.elcomsoft.com/2022/08/windows-hello-no-tpm-no-security/

    *******

    While that's all amusing, let's get back to business.

    You know how to set up Seamonkey now, and it won't take long to do
    it on Windows 7. Your email should be on a separate piece of software,
    and Seamonkey will just be for USENET News.

    Paul

    this is a test.

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Dec 21 04:08:59 2023
    I thought I shut down the 780 and took
    a break but when I came back it had this
    screen:

    https://postimg.cc/9wVxpZ0Q

    I read through the clean Windows install
    and step 9 it asks for a product key to activate
    Win 10. I don't have a product key. We just
    upgraded from Win 7 when it was still free.

    I says if I took advantage of the free offer use
    the Windows 7 Product key I upgraded from.
    Is that the number that's on the computer?

    The process sure is lengthy and involved!
    Holy crap this involves setting up drives and
    partitions etc. network connections.. this is
    literally from scratch and will take all our time
    away when were on a time limit.

    I still say for now, lets get the Win 7 Seamonkey
    working or we can check out the other Win 10 hd
    if you like and it might be in better shape than this
    one but this would take allot of time to do and I
    need the Win 7 operational the Win 10 hd's are not
    that high of a priority right now. We can return to
    this later but for right now I prefer to leave it as is.
    At least I can post with it.

    I suggest I switch hd's again and we set up Win 7
    so it can post via Seamonkey.

    Robert





    _

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 21 04:59:24 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/20/2023 7:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Here is the post again




    You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:

    https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4

    I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
    there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
    see?

    https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy

    https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm

    https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT

    https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y

    https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0

    https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG

    https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz

    https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9

    https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW

    Robert

    control /name Microsoft.UserAccounts

    Then "Manage Another Account" to see the accounts that already exist [useful!] .

    At the bottom of that page in light blue tiny letters, is "add a new user". But it vectors off to the new crap. [Not good]

    *******

    But you can already see what the solution is.

    You need to open an administrators window.
    Once you have hacked the machine, you will have such an account.

    NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
    NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators

    That makes an account TEMP which belongs to administrator group.

    Paul






    This is to test if I can post to
    you on the 780 with Win 7.


    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Dec 21 08:43:25 2023
    On 12/21/2023 5:52 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    OK,.... I am able to post to you via
    the 780 Seamonkey.

    However if we do a clean install it
    will wipe out everything we've done.

    Please dont give me too much credit
    for knowing how to do things. this
    is all new for me and all technical
    and I have a hard time trying to
    remember. I'm trying to follow what you
    what to do.

    I'm still worried about the time element
    but do you want me to do a clean install
    since I can't hack the machine because it
    asked for the pin number when I tried to open a
    CMD prompt as Administrator.

    Robert

    To hack the machine, does not require the PIN :-)
    that's why it is a hack.

    The disk drive with the foreign MSA, can you use
    snippingtool.exe to take a picture of "diskmgmt.msc" (Disk Management)
    Just to see what space is available on the disk.

    You can put OSes side by side. Each OS uses the
    Clean Install method (boot the Windows DVD and install).
    But you make partitions for the work, next to the existing
    partitions. I can boot either of the two OSes,
    from the GUI that Microsoft provides for the purpose.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/Hx361h19/disk-management.gif

    So you could do it that way, which isn't as scary.
    I can boot either OS, just by selecting one of them.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Dec 21 05:47:38 2023
    Can you see my recent test posts using Seamonkey? Can
    you see my O.T. Test post? I put Seamonkey on the 780 Win 7
    and on the 8500 Win 7 and try them both out. You should be
    able to see them.

    I used paganini.bofh.team
    micorsoft.public.windowsxp.g

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Dec 21 08:56:26 2023
    On 12/21/2023 7:08 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I thought I shut down the 780 and took
    a break but when I came back it had this
    screen:

    https://postimg.cc/9wVxpZ0Q

    I read through the clean Windows install
    and step 9 it asks for a product key to activate
    Win 10. I don't have a product key. We just
    upgraded from Win 7 when it was still free.

    I says if I took advantage of the free offer use
    the Windows 7 Product key I upgraded from.
    Is that the number that's on the computer?

    The process sure is lengthy and involved!
    Holy crap this involves setting up drives and
    partitions etc. network connections.. this is
    literally from scratch and will take all our time
    away when were on a time limit.

    I still say for now, lets get the Win 7 Seamonkey
    working or we can check out the other Win 10 hd
    if you like and it might be in better shape than this
    one but this would take allot of time to do and I
    need the Win 7 operational the Win 10 hd's are not
    that high of a priority right now. We can return to
    this later but for right now I prefer to leave it as is.
    At least I can post with it.

    I suggest I switch hd's again and we set up Win 7
    so it can post via Seamonkey.

    Robert

    This is not your first rodeo. You've already done the licensing
    thing. For your install, you answer "I don't have a key" or "Skip".
    Later in the procedure, the OS automatically takes care of all
    of that. The idea is "don't sweat it when it asks for the key",
    just hop past the key section and carry on. It's that simple :-)

    At this point, if you want something to do, you could Google for
    "download Windows 10" and get 22H2 via the "MediaCreationTool"
    that is on the download page. If you have a DVD blank, you can
    burn a DVD. Or, if you have a spare empty Patriot, you can put Windows 10
    on that.

    https://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/software-download/windows10

    Download tool now <+== MediaCreationTool

    Using the tool to create installation media (USB flash drive, DVD,
    or ISO file) to install Windows 10 on a different PC (click to show
    more or less information)

    You can also read my other post, and get me a picture of Disk Management.
    I want to see what kind of a mess this job will be. Some of the installs
    I've done, it has taken me half a day to move partitions around to
    make the room for it.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 21 05:16:59 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/20/2023 7:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Here is the post again




    You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:

    https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4

    I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
    there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
    see?

    https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy

    https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm

    https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT

    https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y

    https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0

    https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG

    https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz

    https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9

    https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW

    Robert

    control /name Microsoft.UserAccounts

    Then "Manage Another Account" to see the accounts that already exist [useful!] .

    At the bottom of that page in light blue tiny letters, is "add a new user". But it vectors off to the new crap. [Not good]

    *******

    But you can already see what the solution is.

    You need to open an administrators window.
    Once you have hacked the machine, you will have such an account.

    NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
    NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators

    That makes an account TEMP which belongs to administrator group.

    Paul




    This is a test on the 8500 Win 7 to see if I
    can post with Sea Monkey.


    Robert


    _

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Dec 21 07:23:46 2023
    Also after I download Seamonkey in Win 7 on both computer I
    went into Windows Explorer couldn't find the downloads for
    Windows Defender to scan it. I installed it anyway because the
    same download had been scanned in Win 10.

    but where do I scan downloads in Win 7 ?

    I'm going to take a break for awhile,. Im tired.

    Please let me know that you've seen my tests posts so I know
    Seamonkey is working.


    Many thanks,
    Robert

    _

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Dec 21 07:16:12 2023
    Can you confirm that you see my test replies from Seamonkey?
    I've sent you several and made a new O.T. Test post.

    I switched the Win10 back and got this screen showing 3 accounts.
    I wonder if I should try to log into the other Rob? I tried to get you a picture of Disk Management but wasn't allowed.

    https://postimg.cc/hfDXzfjK

    https://postimg.cc/yghNWHCJ

    I went back and now understand you want to put the OS side by side but
    won't that take allot of work of arranging the partitons?

    I have new CD-RW disks but I can't use them for the media creation
    tool? I have a Patriot stick but it's been used before. My experience is
    that for something like this you want it brand new.

    I don't have any new SD cards either. If you want we could try the used Patriot.

    Robert



    _

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Dec 21 22:36:11 2023
    On 12/21/2023 7:59 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/20/2023 7:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Here is the post again




    You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:

    https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4

    I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
    there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
    see?

    https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy

    https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm

    https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT

    https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y

    https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0

    https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG

    https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz

    https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9

    https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW

      Robert

    control /name Microsoft.UserAccounts

    Then "Manage Another Account" to see the accounts that already exist  [useful!] .

    At the bottom of that page in light blue tiny letters, is "add a new user". >> But it vectors off to the new crap. [Not good]

    *******

    But you can already see what the solution is.

    You need to open an administrators window.
    Once you have hacked the machine, you will have such an account.

        NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD                   # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
        NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add      # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators

    That makes an account TEMP which belongs to administrator group.

    This is to test if I can post to
    you on the 780 with Win 7.


    Robert


    Yes, I can see this.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Dec 21 22:38:30 2023
    On 12/21/2023 10:23 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Also after I download Seamonkey in Win 7 on both computer I
    went into Windows Explorer couldn't find the downloads for
    Windows Defender to scan it. I installed it anyway because the
    same download had been scanned in Win 10.

    but where do I scan downloads in Win 7 ?

    I'm going to take a break for awhile,. Im tired.

    Please let me know that you've seen my tests posts so I know
    Seamonkey is working.


    Many thanks,
    Robert

    The built-in for Windows 7 is different, and does not
    offer the same protection.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 21 19:27:02 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/21/2023 7:08 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I thought I shut down the 780 and took
    a break but when I came back it had this
    screen:

    https://postimg.cc/9wVxpZ0Q

    I read through the clean Windows install
    and step 9 it asks for a product key to activate
    Win 10. I don't have a product key. We just
    upgraded from Win 7 when it was still free.

    I says if I took advantage of the free offer use
    the Windows 7 Product key I upgraded from.
    Is that the number that's on the computer?

    The process sure is lengthy and involved!
    Holy crap this involves setting up drives and
    partitions etc. network connections.. this is
    literally from scratch and will take all our time
    away when were on a time limit.

    I still say for now, lets get the Win 7 Seamonkey
    working or we can check out the other Win 10 hd
    if you like and it might be in better shape than this
    one but this would take allot of time to do and I
    need the Win 7 operational the Win 10 hd's are not
    that high of a priority right now. We can return to
    this later but for right now I prefer to leave it as is.
    At least I can post with it.

    I suggest I switch hd's again and we set up Win 7
    so it can post via Seamonkey.

    Robert

    This is not your first rodeo. You've already done the licensing
    thing. For your install, you answer "I don't have a key" or "Skip".
    Later in the procedure, the OS automatically takes care of all
    of that. The idea is "don't sweat it when it asks for the key",
    just hop past the key section and carry on. It's that simple :-)

    At this point, if you want something to do, you could Google for
    "download Windows 10" and get 22H2 via the "MediaCreationTool"
    that is on the download page. If you have a DVD blank, you can
    burn a DVD. Or, if you have a spare empty Patriot, you can put Windows 10
    on that.

    https://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/software-download/windows10

    Download tool now <+== MediaCreationTool

    Using the tool to create installation media (USB flash drive, DVD,
    or ISO file) to install Windows 10 on a different PC (click to show
    more or less information)

    You can also read my other post, and get me a picture of Disk Management.
    I want to see what kind of a mess this job will be. Some of the installs
    I've done, it has taken me half a day to move partitions around to
    make the room for it.

    Paul





    Before we go further I need you to verify my posts from
    Seamonkey. In fact, this post is from Seamonkey but I
    sent several test posts earlier.

    I need to know you're seeing this.

    I clicked the other Rob to signon hoping it would be different
    but it isn't. I don't understand why I should have two accounts
    with the same name.?

    I don't see how we can hack the 780 with a User account and the
    Admin Account - WDA is a utility. Everything we try to do is
    stopped by the other User's account's pin number. Even down
    loading Agent Ransack or trying to delete Macrium.

    https://postimg.cc/ZWFB3SSh

    If I do a Clean Install I will be doing it blind,. of course I have the
    8500 but this is going to take awhile and I know zero about setups,
    partitions etc

    I just tried to create a MediaCreationTool and was stopped by the
    pin number again because I'm on a User Account. The WDA is the
    Admin Account. I don't see how we can do anything useful with this
    780 Win 10 hd. I can't download anything on it without the pin coming
    up. I'm surprised it let FF and SeaMonkey in.

    We still have another 780 Win 10 that is the primary, what were working
    on was a spare hd and maybe we should put the primary in and see what
    it looks like? I also have the 8500 Win 10 but there's only (1) However,
    I do have spare hd's so we could create another.


    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert


    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 22 00:47:48 2023
    On 12/21/2023 10:27 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Before we go further I need you to verify my posts from
    Seamonkey. In fact, this post is from Seamonkey but I
    sent several test posts earlier.

    I need to know you're seeing this.

    I clicked the other Rob to signon hoping it would be different
    but it isn't. I don't understand why I should have two accounts
    with the same name.?

    I don't see how we can hack the 780 with a User account and the
    Admin Account - WDA is a utility. Everything we try to do is
    stopped by the other User's account's pin number. Even down
    loading Agent Ransack or trying to delete Macrium.

    https://postimg.cc/ZWFB3SSh

    If I do a Clean Install I will be doing it blind,. of course I have the
    8500 but this is going to take awhile and I know zero about setups, partitions etc

    I just tried to create a MediaCreationTool and was stopped by the
    pin number again because I'm on a User Account. The WDA is the
    Admin Account. I don't see how we can do anything useful with this
    780 Win 10 hd. I can't download anything on it without the pin coming
    up. I'm surprised it let FF and SeaMonkey in.

    We still have another 780 Win 10 that is the primary, what were working
    on was a spare hd and maybe we should put the primary in and see what
    it looks like? I also have the 8500 Win 10 but there's only (1) However,
    I do have spare hd's  so we could create another.


    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert

    I don't understand your two accounts at login either. Very puzzling.

    I saw that in one of your previous picture-posts.

    It appears to be related to using netplwiz to cause auto-login. Of course,
    it does not do that for everyone, as I've used netplwiz before without
    any side effects.

    https://www.isumsoft.com/windows-10/two-duplicate-user-names-on-windows-10-login-screen.html

    Once multiple user accounts exist, I don't know if the netplwiz auto-login
    will work any more.

    *******

    You can copy the materials off the Patriot, then reuse the Patriot
    for installing an OS.

    *******

    Macrium shows your disk drive layout. That's if you belong to the Backup Group so macrium can do its thing.

    The Macrium CD also has a screenshot icon in the lower left. That might be
    on one of the newer CDs you made, if it exists.

    But if you can't get diskmgmt.msc (Disk Management) open, it's going to be a lot harder
    to tell what is going on.

    *******

    I tried a couple more things from the web, and it looks
    pretty hopeless expecting "Safe Mode" to offer a way to do anything.

    Only that hack can save us now, in the sense that it puts you back
    in control.

    I would guess that when you got the machine, it was in OOBE state (Out Of the Box state),
    and the foreign account owner had sysprepped it or something. Strange
    that such a procedure would leave his account and only allow you
    to make an un-elevated account.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 21 21:38:28 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/21/2023 8:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/20/2023 7:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Here is the post again




    You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:

    https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4

    I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
    there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
    see?

    https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy

    https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm

    https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT

    https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y

    https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0

    https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG

    https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz

    https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9

    https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW

      Robert

    control /name Microsoft.UserAccounts

    Then "Manage Another Account" to see the accounts that already exist  [useful!] .

    At the bottom of that page in light blue tiny letters, is "add a new user". >>> But it vectors off to the new crap. [Not good]

    *******

    But you can already see what the solution is.

    You need to open an administrators window.
    Once you have hacked the machine, you will have such an account.

        NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD                   # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
        NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add      # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators

    That makes an account TEMP which belongs to administrator group.


    This is a test on the 8500 Win 7 to see if I
    can post with Sea Monkey.


    Robert

    I can confirm that this arrived as well.

    Paul




    Did you see this?

    I clicked the other Rob to signon hoping it would be different
    but it isn't. I don't understand why I should have two accounts
    with the same name.?

    I don't see how we can hack the 780 with a User account and the
    Admin Account - WDA is a utility. Everything we try to do is
    stopped by the other User's account's pin number. Even down
    loading Agent Ransack or trying to delete Macrium.

    https://postimg.cc/ZWFB3SSh

    If I do a Clean Install I will be doing it blind,. of course I have the
    8500 but this is going to take awhile and I know zero about setups,
    partitions etc

    I just tried to create a MediaCreationTool and was stopped by the
    pin number again because I'm on a User Account. The WDA is the
    Admin Account. I don't see how we can do anything useful with this
    780 Win 10 hd. I can't download anything on it without the pin coming
    up. I'm surprised it let FF and SeaMonkey in.

    We still have another 780 Win 10 that is the primary, what were working
    on was a spare hd and maybe we should put the primary in and see what
    it looks like? I also have the 8500 Win 10 but there's only (1) However,
    I do have spare hd's so we could create another.


    Since it wouldn't download the mediacreationtool in Win 10
    I switched hd again and put in the 780 Win 7 hd. I'm not going
    to mess with the 8500 doing this. It's still not letting me and finally
    came up with two different error messages after I restarted it and tried
    a 3rd time.

    https://postimg.cc/q6h5XBqv

    https://postimg.cc/8fMbz7sM

    https://postimg.cc/HV02G8qC

    https://postimg.cc/njQ43X4g

    https://postimg.cc/ykKmTYkp

    https://postimg.cc/QFYsbCxp

    https://postimg.cc/tZBhR83d


    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert


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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Thu Dec 21 22:13:23 2023
    This is on the 8500 not Seamonkey.

    I tried the hack:

    https://postimg.cc/4HJf1b3B

    https://postimg.cc/Mv36yBJm


    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 21 22:01:03 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/21/2023 8:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/20/2023 7:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Here is the post again




    You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:

    https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4

    I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
    there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
    see?

    https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy

    https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm

    https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT

    https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y

    https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0

    https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG

    https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz

    https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9

    https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW

      Robert

    control /name Microsoft.UserAccounts

    Then "Manage Another Account" to see the accounts that already exist  [useful!] .

    At the bottom of that page in light blue tiny letters, is "add a new user". >>> But it vectors off to the new crap. [Not good]

    *******

    But you can already see what the solution is.

    You need to open an administrators window.
    Once you have hacked the machine, you will have such an account.

        NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD                   # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
        NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add      # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators

    That makes an account TEMP which belongs to administrator group.


    This is a test on the 8500 Win 7 to see if I
    can post with Sea Monkey.


    Robert

    I can confirm that this arrived as well.

    Paul




    This is the most current post I can find from you.

    Let me switch the 780 Win 10 hd with the
    master 780 Win 10 hd that we haven't put in
    yet. It may be OK and we can do everything
    you want without all this hassle.

    We can always return to this Win 10 hd but
    its not letting us do anything. It's a wonder we
    got Spymonkey to work on it and maybe that
    will be it's only function because it's not letting
    us do anything else.

    I could try and transfer my bookmarks and My
    Documents etc to make it more usable and maybe
    it will let me install Word and EXcell and Dell
    Imagining but I wouldn't want to make mrimgs
    for this hd.

    The other Win 10 hd will probably have Edge
    as well but I can put on FF after I scan it but
    hopefully it won't have all these crazy accounts
    and will be set up differently.

    What do you think?

    Robert


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 22 03:49:16 2023
    On 12/22/2023 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    This is on the 8500 not Seamonkey.

    I tried the hack:

    https://postimg.cc/4HJf1b3B

    https://postimg.cc/Mv36yBJm


    Robert


    OK. This is what I presented originally.

    [Picture] I tested a method. Here, adding TEMP acct, without needing the foreigner PIN

    https://i.postimg.cc/cCvkCVtd/added-temp-administrators-account.gif

    This is the web site I used for the hack.

    https://4sysops.com/archives/reset-windows-10-password-by-disabling-windows-defender/

    You can do the first part of the hack this way.
    The purpose of this step, is we're entering Safe Mode.
    But, it's on the next reboot of Windows. If we happen
    to sneak in another OS before that, and makes some
    changes, nobody will know. We use the Popup Boot on
    the computer to do this. It turns out, the Macrium CD
    is very handy for the file modification step.

    [Picture] The hack that uses safe mode, and offers an
    Administrator window for adding yourself to an Administrators group

    https://i.postimg.cc/tRvT58Bt/safe-mode.jpg

    *******

    As examples of things that can be done in the Administrator window in the example.

    net user TEMP querty1 /add # Add account TEMP:querty1 to the accounts (write down the password)

    net localgroup Administrators TEMP /add # Make the user TEMP, an Administrator

    Similarly, we could take the Rob account, and elevate it.

    net localgroup Administrators Rob /add # Make the user Rob, an Administrator

    And Merry Christmas.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Dec 22 00:16:38 2023
    I'm on the 8500 ,, not on Seamonkey,..

    It was nagging at me so I put in the other 780 Win 10 hd
    and big surprise! It's a Win 7 Pro!

    Malwarebytes was really out of date so I'm installing a
    newer version. I tried to scan before I install it but Win 7
    has nothing.

    There's lots of updates and things to do to this Win 7 version
    but I don't want to waste our time doing that. At least it has
    my Admin Account and my User Account.

    Anyways, I wanted you to know I checked and what I found.


    Robert


    _

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 22 03:52:49 2023
    On 12/22/2023 1:01 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/21/2023 8:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/20/2023 7:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Here is the post again




    You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:

    https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4

    I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
    there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
    see?

    https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy

    https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm

    https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT

    https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y

    https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0

    https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG

    https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz

    https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9

    https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW

       Robert

    control /name Microsoft.UserAccounts

    Then "Manage Another Account" to see the accounts that already exist  [useful!] .

    At the bottom of that page in light blue tiny letters, is "add a new user".
    But it vectors off to the new crap. [Not good]

    *******

    But you can already see what the solution is.

    You need to open an administrators window.
    Once you have hacked the machine, you will have such an account.

         NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD                   # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
         NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add      # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators

    That makes an account TEMP which belongs to administrator group.


    This is a test on the 8500 Win 7 to see if I
    can post with Sea Monkey.


    Robert

    I can confirm that this arrived as well.

        Paul




    This is the most current post I can find from you.

    Let me switch the 780 Win 10 hd with the
    master 780 Win 10 hd that we haven't put in
    yet. It may be OK and we can do everything
    you want without all this hassle.

    We can always return to this Win 10 hd but
    its not letting us do anything. It's a wonder we
    got Spymonkey to work on it and maybe that
    will be it's only function because it's not letting
    us do anything else.

    I could try and  transfer my bookmarks and My
    Documents etc to make it more usable and maybe
    it will let me install Word and EXcell and Dell
    Imagining but I wouldn't want to make mrimgs
    for this hd.

    The other Win 10 hd will probably have Edge
    as well but I can put on FF after I scan it but
    hopefully it won't have all these crazy accounts
    and will be set up differently.

    What do you think?

    Robert

    It will let us do things. You have to be patient.

    If you don't see the post, use your browser and the post is here.

    http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cum3iid%24u5tk%241%40paganini.bofh.team%3E

    It uses a Macrium CD for part of the hack.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Dec 22 01:03:07 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/22/2023 1:01 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/21/2023 8:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/20/2023 7:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Here is the post again




    You can see with the old account I saw the current posts:

    https://postimg.cc/FYZZtxy4

    I tried to create a User Account in Win 10 but
    there doesn't seem to be anyway That I could
    see?

    https://postimg.cc/sMXBX9Fy

    https://postimg.cc/cgNwrgMm

    https://postimg.cc/d7GTPQPT

    https://postimg.cc/D8W03f1y

    https://postimg.cc/t1rGgWj0

    https://postimg.cc/T5DzQsWG

    https://postimg.cc/1gd7THSz

    https://postimg.cc/ygJtYGj9

    https://postimg.cc/LJnbVwdW

       Robert

    control /name Microsoft.UserAccounts

    Then "Manage Another Account" to see the accounts that already exist  [useful!] .

    At the bottom of that page in light blue tiny letters, is "add a new user".
    But it vectors off to the new crap. [Not good]

    *******

    But you can already see what the solution is.

    You need to open an administrators window.
    Once you have hacked the machine, you will have such an account.

         NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD                   # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
         NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add      # Don't forget the "s" on the end of Administrators

    That makes an account TEMP which belongs to administrator group.


    This is a test on the 8500 Win 7 to see if I
    can post with Sea Monkey.


    Robert

    I can confirm that this arrived as well.

        Paul




    This is the most current post I can find from you.

    Let me switch the 780 Win 10 hd with the
    master 780 Win 10 hd that we haven't put in
    yet. It may be OK and we can do everything
    you want without all this hassle.

    We can always return to this Win 10 hd but
    its not letting us do anything. It's a wonder we
    got Spymonkey to work on it and maybe that
    will be it's only function because it's not letting
    us do anything else.

    I could try and  transfer my bookmarks and My
    Documents etc to make it more usable and maybe
    it will let me install Word and EXcell and Dell
    Imagining but I wouldn't want to make mrimgs
    for this hd.

    The other Win 10 hd will probably have Edge
    as well but I can put on FF after I scan it but
    hopefully it won't have all these crazy accounts
    and will be set up differently.

    What do you think?

    Robert

    It will let us do things. You have to be patient.

    If you don't see the post, use your browser and the post is here.

    http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cum3iid%24u5tk%241%40paganini.bofh.team%3E

    It uses a Macrium CD for part of the hack.

    Paul



    This post is on the 8500 using Seamonkey


    Here's what was on what I thought was the
    780 Win 10 hd

    https://postimg.cc/75jxK2sg

    https://postimg.cc/943hdj0b

    https://postimg.cc/18GWdxMJ

    Robert



    _

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Dec 22 01:33:18 2023
    I just read your instructions for hacking,.. allot to take in...
    I'll have to re-read it a couple of times. You want me to use
    my 780 Rescue CD to gain access to the cmd prompt to make
    the changes then verify my account has been elevated and change
    it back. correct?

    I don't see from the instructions how to restart Windows boot
    manager and I've never seen these safe modes before. Also where
    it's asking for the password and the next I'm entering commands
    in a command prompt. How did I get there?

    Am I entering those same commands?

    Thanks,..
    Merry Christmas
    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Dec 22 01:50:12 2023
    I'll be more patient and especially this time of year
    everyone is busy...

    I'm downloading the mediacreationtool and will put it
    on the Patriot. It turns out I do have DVD-R's but would
    not be big enough as you pointed out with the special
    double layer DVD + R-DL's

    Thanks,
    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 22 04:24:30 2023
    On 12/22/2023 12:38 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Did you see this?

    I clicked the other Rob to signon hoping it would be different
    but it isn't. I don't understand why I should have two accounts
    with the same name.?

    I don't see how we can hack the 780 with a User account and the
    Admin Account - WDA is a utility. Everything we try to do is
    stopped by the other User's account's pin number. Even down
    loading Agent Ransack or trying to delete Macrium.

    https://postimg.cc/ZWFB3SSh

    If I do a Clean Install I will be doing it blind,. of course I have the
    8500 but this is going to take awhile and I know zero about setups, partitions etc

    I just tried to create a MediaCreationTool and was stopped by the
    pin number again because I'm on a User Account. The WDA is the
    Admin Account. I don't see how we can do anything useful with this
    780 Win 10 hd. I can't download anything on it without the pin coming
    up. I'm surprised it let FF and SeaMonkey in.

    We still have another 780 Win 10 that is the primary, what were working
    on was a spare hd and maybe we should put the primary in and see what
    it looks like? I also have the 8500 Win 10 but there's only (1) However,
    I do have spare hd's so we could create another.


    Since it wouldn't download the mediacreationtool in Win 10
    I switched hd again and put in the 780 Win 7 hd. I'm not going
    to mess with the 8500 doing this. It's still not letting me and finally
    came up with two different error messages after I restarted it and tried
    a 3rd time.

    https://postimg.cc/q6h5XBqv

    https://postimg.cc/8fMbz7sM

    https://postimg.cc/HV02G8qC

    https://postimg.cc/njQ43X4g

    https://postimg.cc/ykKmTYkp

    https://postimg.cc/QFYsbCxp

    https://postimg.cc/tZBhR83d

    Remember, when I'm quiet for a couple hours, I'm making
    a film strip. That's why I can't read all these posts in
    parallel while I'm working. I was off hacking the Test Machine,
    and making my Administrator account for myself :-)

    *******

    MediaCreationTool22H2 has more than one purpose.

    If it upgraded a machine directly, then it would be
    running something as an administrator.

    Of course, downloading content does not need elevation, but,
    we can't tell MediaCreationTool22H2 in advance, that is what
    we're doing.

    I can spin you up a URL from Linux (and, without even leaving
    my seat), so one second here, and I'll give a URL. The URL
    is only valid for 24 hours.

    This is the x64 one that you would use. It's quite large, and
    will fit the Patriot, with the right preparation tool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=77232304-db69-4e65-911f-85eab6da8c0a&e=1703322246&h=f74da33d398f4dbda803413f25a5f764c0fb875573a5157f21d97f4be1e699b7

    [ This is the 32-bit one which you don't need.
    Included for completeness, like if you were wondering if a second version was there.
    32-bit Windows 10 22H2 would not use all of your RAM. That's why it isn't a candidate. ]

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x32v1.iso?t=77232304-db69-4e65-911f-85eab6da8c0a&e=1703322246&h=33ca42f4dbdab5745c70b517b145812543a526c367ae372630f0031d27e0224c

    The tool for moving the ISO to the Patriot, is rufus.ie .
    None of the tick boxes are needed, at the very end of the rufus procedure.
    With my luck, the Rufus will need administrator, because after
    all, it is formatting the USB stick :-/

    https://github.com/pbatard/rufus/releases/download/v4.3/rufus-4.3p.exe # Portable program, no Install Procedure

    The other option, is to burn a DVD.

    The 64-bit 22H2 would be large enough, you'd need a dual-layer DVD (9GB capacity),
    and sometimes those are available in a five-pak. They are more expensive
    than ordinary DVDs, because of the "tax for artists" placed upon their existence.
    Even though they are blanks, the assumption is you are "stealing music or videos"
    when you buy this media. I have only ever bought one small package of dual-layer
    media. You can always shop for something else if you want. I'm a noob at media selection.

    DVD+R DL 8.5GB 8X with Branded Surface - 5pk Jewel Case Box 95311

    https://www.verbatim.com/prod/optical-media/dvd/dvd-r-dl/dvd-plus-r-dl-sku-95311/

    https://www.newegg.com/verbatim-8x-8-5gb-dvd-r-dl/p/N82E16817130007 $15 + shipping

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 22 05:50:39 2023
    On 12/22/2023 4:33 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I just read your instructions for hacking,.. allot to take in...
    I'll have to re-read it a couple of times. You want me to use
    my 780 Rescue CD to gain access to the cmd prompt to make
    the changes then verify my account has been elevated and change
    it back. correct?

    I don't see from the instructions how to restart Windows boot
    manager and I've never seen these safe modes before. Also where
    it's asking for the password and the next I'm entering commands
    in a command prompt. How did I get there?

    Am I entering those same commands?

    Thanks,..
    Merry Christmas
    Robert


    The only password, is the assignment of "qwerty1" to the
    account I was making. None of the other procedures require
    entering a password for the "hard work".

    The hack, uses Sticky Keys (pressing shift key five times
    in succession) as a trigger. The window that opens, is
    already an administrator. Using that window, you can do any
    administrator tasks that need doing. Any other logging in
    after the work is done, is only for an un-elevated look around
    at the scenery.

    Macrium seems to be running as Administrator, when you boot up
    its CD. That's how the files succumb to the charms of Macrium.

    When you boot Macrium, there's no logging in.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Fri Dec 22 05:00:56 2023
    I completed the MediaCreationTool download
    but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
    options for the Patriot.

    https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP

    https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn

    https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH

    https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8

    Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:

    https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.

    I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
    double sided DVD's.


    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 22 22:31:32 2023
    On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I completed the MediaCreationTool download
    but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
    options for the Patriot.

    https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP

    https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn

    https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH

    https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8

    Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:

    https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.

    I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
    double sided DVD's.


    Robert


    The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
    for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
    bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.

    DVD-R SL 4,707,319,808
    DVD+R SL 4,700,372,992
    DVD-R DL 8,543,666,176
    DVD+R DL 8,547,991,552

    The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
    Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
    Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie . Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.

    You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
    how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media.

    It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
    it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
    Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
    A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.

    http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E

    md F:\WORK # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK

    # Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.

    sources\
    efi\
    ...
    autorun.inf

    # First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\

    F:\WORK\sources\ # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.

    # The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
    # The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.

    oscdimg ... F:\WORK F:\W190364.iso # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
    # For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .

    *******

    For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
    to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
    on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
    the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
    attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
    disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
    with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.

    # your boot error

    https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
    at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
    work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
    it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)

    Paul

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Dec 22 22:08:41 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I completed the MediaCreationTool download
    but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
    options for the Patriot.

    https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP

    https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn

    https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH

    https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8

    Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:

    https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.

    I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
    double sided DVD's.


    Robert


    The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
    for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
    bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.

    DVD-R SL 4,707,319,808
    DVD+R SL 4,700,372,992
    DVD-R DL 8,543,666,176
    DVD+R DL 8,547,991,552

    The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
    Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
    Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie . Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.

    You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
    how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media.

    It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
    it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
    Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
    A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.

    http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E

    md F:\WORK # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK

    # Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.

    sources\
    efi\
    ...
    autorun.inf

    # First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\

    F:\WORK\sources\ # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.

    # The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
    # The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.

    oscdimg ... F:\WORK F:\W190364.iso # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
    # For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .

    *******

    For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
    to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
    on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
    the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
    attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
    disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
    with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.

    # your boot error

    https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
    at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
    work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
    it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)

    Paul


    This on the 8500 Sea Monkey and from now on all my posts
    will be on Seamonkey unless I say other wise.

    Let me make sure I understand what you want me to do.
    You want me to use the macrium Rescue CD to go into a
    'Safe Mode' becaue were not metal to metal there and then
    access the cmd prompt from there.

    Then enter the commands to elevate my account to a
    Administrators account where I could delete the other
    account with the pin number, correct?

    I'm suppose to enter this?

    NET USER TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # Adding Account TEMP, Password qwerty1
    NET LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /add # Don't forget the "s" on the
    end of Administrators

    Also it seems in your instructions after I do the commands above
    it shows where I haven't logged in yet and it shows the password
    but then it jumps to the CMD prompt again? You lost me at that point.

    I do have to switch hd's again to do my monthly mrimgs but
    I'll switch them back afterwards.

    I'll order the DVD's on the 27th,...it sucks we have to waste time
    because the program won't accept the Patriot. Question, since it
    only will accept DVD's will it accept the double layer DVD_RDL's?

    What else?

    At first I thought you were talking about Win 10 but then I realized
    you were talking about the bad hd I put in to see if it was indeed bad.
    Whew!
    We could try to repair it after we get the 780 Win 10 finished if you like.

    I'm a bit worried about the 8500 Win 10 hd now because it also many
    be a Win 7 Pro. At present, we only have the 780 Win 10 hd were working
    on. Can we use the MediaCreationTool on a Win7hd to make it a Win 10 hd?


    Thanks,
    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Dec 23 10:37:00 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I completed the MediaCreationTool download
    but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
    options for the Patriot.

    https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP

    https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn

    https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH

    https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8

    Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:

    https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.

    I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
    double sided DVD's.


    Robert


    The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
    for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
    bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.

    DVD-R SL 4,707,319,808
    DVD+R SL 4,700,372,992
    DVD-R DL 8,543,666,176
    DVD+R DL 8,547,991,552

    The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
    Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
    Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie . Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.

    You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
    how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media.

    It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
    it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
    Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
    A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.

    http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E

    md F:\WORK # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK

    # Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.

    sources\
    efi\
    ...
    autorun.inf

    # First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\

    F:\WORK\sources\ # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.

    # The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
    # The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.

    oscdimg ... F:\WORK F:\W190364.iso # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
    # For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .

    *******

    For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
    to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
    on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
    the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
    attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
    disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
    with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.

    # your boot error

    https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
    at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
    work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
    it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)

    Paul



    Do I have this sequence right?

    • select settings
    • select update/security
    • select recovery - restart now
    • select Troubleshoot
    • select advanced options
    • select start-up settings
    • I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
    • in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands

    cd Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
    copy cmd.exe sethc .exe

    • close CMD prompt
    • re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4 (I've never seen those startup settings before)

    There's is no shut down/restart command in macrium. When doing mrimgs I
    usually
    remove the CD from the drive. Then close Macrium and wait for the screen
    to go black and then pull the USB connection then I get the WBM screen.
    So I would still close macrium and then when it restarts I could select
    Safe mode then. Is that what you want me to do?

    I see you have a new account Lowboy your using so will I also have a new account
    that I will be using but can I still access the CMD prompt without
    logging in ?

    • enter commands

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD

    • press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged in yet
    • verify account has changed to Administrator
    • re-boot with Rescue media
    • select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack

    C:
    cd Windows\System 32
    del sethc.exe
    ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe




    Robert



    _


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Dec 23 20:08:40 2023
    On 12/23/2023 1:37 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I completed the MediaCreationTool download
    but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
    options for the Patriot.

    https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP

    https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn

    https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH

    https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8

    Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:

    https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.

    I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
    double sided DVD's.


    Robert


    The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
    for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
    bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.

    DVD-R SL   4,707,319,808
    DVD+R SL   4,700,372,992
    DVD-R DL   8,543,666,176
    DVD+R DL   8,547,991,552

    The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
    Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
    Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie .
    Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.

    You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
    how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media. >>
    It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
    it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
    Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
    A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.

        http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E

        md F:\WORK        # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK

        # Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.

         sources\
         efi\
         ...
         autorun.inf

        # First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\

         F:\WORK\sources\        # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.

        # The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
        # The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.

         oscdimg ...  F:\WORK   F:\W190364.iso   # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
                                                 # For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .

    *******

    For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
    to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
    on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
    the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
    attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
    disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
    with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.

        # your boot error

        https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
    at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
    work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
    it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)

       Paul



    Do I have this sequence right?

    •    select settings
    •    select update/security
    •    select recovery - restart now
    •    select Troubleshoot
    •    select advanced options
    •    select start-up settings
    •    I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
    •    in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands

    cd Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
    copy cmd.exe sethc .exe

    •    close CMD prompt
    •    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4 (I've never seen those startup settings before)

    There's is no shut down/restart command in macrium. When doing mrimgs I usually
    remove the CD from the drive. Then close Macrium and wait for the screen to go black and then pull the USB connection then I get the WBM screen. So I would still close macrium and then when it restarts I could select Safe mode then. Is that what you
    want me to do?

    I see you have a new account Lowboy your using so will I also have a new account
    that I will be using but can I still access the CMD prompt without logging in ?

    •    enter commands

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl  /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP  /ADD

    •    press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged in yet
    •    verify account has changed to Administrator
    •    re-boot with Rescue media
    •    select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack

    C:
    cd Windows\System 32
    del sethc.exe
    ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe




    Robert

    This sequence, needs C: as the first line. You MUST switch to the
    C: partition, before the other three commands. There are four lines of input. The first line has the two characters in it.

    C: # This changes to the C: partition
    cd Windows\System32 # Current directory is C:\Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak # This renames the original file, for safe keeping
    copy cmd.exe sethc.exe # This places cmd.exe in place of sethc.exe file, as a "fake"

    *******

    Macrium does have a selector for shutdown/restart. It's in
    newer versions of the Macrium Rescue CD. It is the red button
    in the lower left corner. Clicking it, if there is a selector, it
    will have as options "Reboot" or "Shutdown" showing in a tiny dialog box. That's where you get to select it.

    *******

    When you have the Administrator level window to work in, you can
    do anything you want. This sequence for example, adds a new account
    that has administrator rights. This account is TEMP. And the
    password is "qwerty1".

    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD

    You could do a third line at that time, like this. This would
    add the account "Rob" to the Administrators group. This assumes
    the "Rob" account already exists. That's why the command only
    has the one line. "Rob" must exist and be a working account, for this
    to be worth doing.

    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD

    See how easy this is ? And how much fun ?

    Do not be distracted by the accounts showing in my diagram.
    ("Lowboy" is the unelevated account, I use to "test for handcuffs" in the OS.)

    What happens to the computer during this procedure, does not "rely" on the account choices.
    What matters, is entering those commands in the Administrator window.

    That's why we're doing the hack, is to regain control of the computer
    so we can do other important work.

    Once the hack lines are entered, you can type "exit" into the
    Administrator window, or you can click the "X" in the upper left
    corner of that window. You can log into any account showing
    for fun if you want (lower left corner choices). If everything
    is working, when you reboot the computer, any changes should
    now be working, and say, the Rob account could have new Administrator privileges.
    That's what this is for. Getting away from entering some foreign-account PIN. We need an account which you control, to have Administrators privileges.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 24 01:54:40 2023
    On 12/24/2023 1:33 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/23/2023 1:37 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I completed the MediaCreationTool download
    but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
    options for the Patriot.

    https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP

    https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn

    https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH

    https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8

    Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:

    https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.

    I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
    double sided DVD's.


    Robert


    The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
    for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
    bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.

    DVD-R SL   4,707,319,808
    DVD+R SL   4,700,372,992
    DVD-R DL   8,543,666,176
    DVD+R DL   8,547,991,552

    The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
    Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
    Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie . >>>> Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.

    You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
    how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media. >>>>
    It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
    it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
    Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
    A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.

         http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E

         md F:\WORK        # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK

         # Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.

          sources\
          efi\
          ...
          autorun.inf

         # First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\ >>>>
          F:\WORK\sources\        # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.

         # The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
         # The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.

          oscdimg ...  F:\WORK   F:\W190364.iso   # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
                                                  # For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .

    *******

    For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
    to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
    on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
    the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
    attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
    disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
    with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.

         # your boot error

         https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
    at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
    work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
    it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)

        Paul



    Do I have this sequence right?

    •    select settings
    •    select update/security
    •    select recovery - restart now
    •    select Troubleshoot
    •    select advanced options
    •    select start-up settings
    •    I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
    •    in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands

    cd Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
    copy cmd.exe sethc .exe

    •    close CMD prompt
    •    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4 (I've never seen those startup settings before)

    There's is no shut down/restart command in macrium. When doing mrimgs I usually
    remove the CD from the drive. Then close Macrium and wait for the screen to go black and then pull the USB connection then I get the WBM screen. So I would still close macrium and then when it restarts I could select Safe mode then. Is that what you
    want me to do?

    I see you have a new account Lowboy your using so will I also have a new account
    that I will be using but can I still access the CMD prompt without logging in ?

    •    enter commands

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl  /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP  /ADD

    •    press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged in yet
    •    verify account has changed to Administrator
    •    re-boot with Rescue media
    •    select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack

    C:
    cd Windows\System 32
    del sethc.exe
    ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe




    Robert

    This sequence, needs C: as the first line. You MUST switch to the
    C: partition, before the other three commands. There are four lines of input.
    The first line has the two characters in it.

    C:                                     # This changes to the C: partition
    cd Windows\System32                    # Current directory is C:\Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak            # This renames the original file, for safe keeping
    copy cmd.exe sethc.exe                 # This places cmd.exe in place of sethc.exe file, as a "fake"

    *******

    Macrium does have a selector for shutdown/restart. It's in
    newer versions of the Macrium Rescue CD. It is the red button
    in the lower left corner. Clicking it, if there is a selector, it
    will have as options "Reboot" or "Shutdown" showing in a tiny dialog box.
    That's where you get to select it.

    *******

    When you have the Administrator level window to work in, you can
    do anything you want. This sequence for example, adds a new account
    that has administrator rights. This account is TEMP. And the
    password is "qwerty1".

        C:\WINDOWS\system32>    net user TEMP qwertyl  /ADD
        C:\WINDOWS\system32>    net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP  /ADD >>
    You could do a third line at that time, like this. This would
    add the account "Rob" to the Administrators group. This assumes
    the "Rob" account already exists. That's why the command only
    has the one line. "Rob" must exist and be a working account, for this
    to be worth doing.

                                net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD

    See how easy this is ? And how much fun ?

    Do not be distracted by the accounts showing in my diagram.
    ("Lowboy" is the unelevated account, I use to "test for handcuffs" in the OS.)

    What happens to the computer during this procedure, does not "rely" on the account choices.
    What matters, is entering those commands in the Administrator window.

    That's why we're doing the hack, is to regain control of the computer
    so we can do other important work.

    Once the hack lines are entered, you can type "exit" into the
    Administrator window, or you can click the "X" in the upper left
    corner of that window. You can log into any account showing
    for fun if you want (lower left corner choices). If everything
    is working, when you reboot the computer, any changes should
    now be working, and say, the Rob account could have new Administrator privileges.
    That's what this is for. Getting away from entering some foreign-account PIN.
    We need an account which you control, to have Administrators privileges.

        Paul



    Do I have this sequence right now?

    • select settings
    • select update/security
    • select recovery - restart now
    • select Troubleshoot
    • select advanced options
    • select start-up settings
    • I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
    • in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands

    C:
    cd Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
    copy cmd.exe sethc .exe

    • close CMD prompt
    • re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4

    • at CMD prompt enter commands

    C:
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD

    • press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged
    in yet
    • verify account has changed to Administrator
    • re-boot with Rescue media
    • select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack

    C:
    cd Windows\System 32
    del sethc.exe
    ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe


     I can just leave the Rescue CD in when I reboot
    and just not select it or do you think its better I take it
    out before I reboot to the WBM?.


    Once we have it working as Admin Account I can go into
    the CMD prompt and do

    C:
    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD

    could I make my own like this as a simple example? What would this do?

    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user Robert abc123 /ADD

    Robert

    That last command, makes an un-elevated user Robert.
    You need a second line after it, so it is elevated.

    net user Robert abc123 /ADD # Create Robert account with password abc123

    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Robert /ADD # Add Robert to the Administrators group

    And be careful of your syntax, OK ?
    No more of those excess space characters.

    This part of the command, is already on the screen.
    It's the "prompt" and it shows the current working directory, then a greater-than symbol.
    You don't type this part.

    C:\WINDOWS\system32>

    The letters you type, are this much.

    net user Robert abc123 /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Robert /ADD

    Those commands do not have any particular dependency on the working directory.

    However, the Macrium file copy work, it *does* depend on the working directory being done correctly. The Macrium environment boots to X: and then
    we have to change the Macrium path to C: to get the commands carried
    out on the C: drive. (The X: directory is transient, and it disappears
    as soon as Macrium is shut down. Whereas C: is always with us.)

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Dec 23 22:33:58 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/23/2023 1:37 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I completed the MediaCreationTool download
    but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
    options for the Patriot.

    https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP

    https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn

    https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH

    https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8

    Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:

    https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.

    I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
    double sided DVD's.


    Robert


    The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
    for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
    bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.

    DVD-R SL   4,707,319,808
    DVD+R SL   4,700,372,992
    DVD-R DL   8,543,666,176
    DVD+R DL   8,547,991,552

    The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
    Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
    Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie .
    Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.

    You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
    how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media. >>>
    It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
    it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
    Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
    A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.

        http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E

        md F:\WORK        # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK

        # Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.

         sources\
         efi\
         ...
         autorun.inf

        # First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\

         F:\WORK\sources\        # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.

        # The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
        # The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.

         oscdimg ...  F:\WORK   F:\W190364.iso   # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
                                                 # For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .

    *******

    For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
    to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
    on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
    the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
    attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
    disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
    with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.

        # your boot error

        https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
    at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
    work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
    it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)

       Paul



    Do I have this sequence right?

    •    select settings
    •    select update/security
    •    select recovery - restart now
    •    select Troubleshoot
    •    select advanced options
    •    select start-up settings
    •    I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
    •    in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands

    cd Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
    copy cmd.exe sethc .exe

    •    close CMD prompt
    •    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4 (I've never seen those startup settings before)

    There's is no shut down/restart command in macrium. When doing mrimgs I usually
    remove the CD from the drive. Then close Macrium and wait for the screen to go black and then pull the USB connection then I get the WBM screen. So I would still close macrium and then when it restarts I could select Safe mode then. Is that what you
    want me to do?

    I see you have a new account Lowboy your using so will I also have a new account
    that I will be using but can I still access the CMD prompt without logging in ?

    •    enter commands

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl  /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP  /ADD

    •    press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged in yet
    •    verify account has changed to Administrator
    •    re-boot with Rescue media
    •    select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack

    C:
    cd Windows\System 32
    del sethc.exe
    ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe




    Robert

    This sequence, needs C: as the first line. You MUST switch to the
    C: partition, before the other three commands. There are four lines of input. The first line has the two characters in it.

    C: # This changes to the C: partition
    cd Windows\System32 # Current directory is C:\Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak # This renames the original file, for safe keeping
    copy cmd.exe sethc.exe # This places cmd.exe in place of sethc.exe file, as a "fake"

    *******

    Macrium does have a selector for shutdown/restart. It's in
    newer versions of the Macrium Rescue CD. It is the red button
    in the lower left corner. Clicking it, if there is a selector, it
    will have as options "Reboot" or "Shutdown" showing in a tiny dialog box. That's where you get to select it.

    *******

    When you have the Administrator level window to work in, you can
    do anything you want. This sequence for example, adds a new account
    that has administrator rights. This account is TEMP. And the
    password is "qwerty1".

    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD

    You could do a third line at that time, like this. This would
    add the account "Rob" to the Administrators group. This assumes
    the "Rob" account already exists. That's why the command only
    has the one line. "Rob" must exist and be a working account, for this
    to be worth doing.

    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD

    See how easy this is ? And how much fun ?

    Do not be distracted by the accounts showing in my diagram.
    ("Lowboy" is the unelevated account, I use to "test for handcuffs" in the OS.)

    What happens to the computer during this procedure, does not "rely" on the account choices.
    What matters, is entering those commands in the Administrator window.

    That's why we're doing the hack, is to regain control of the computer
    so we can do other important work.

    Once the hack lines are entered, you can type "exit" into the
    Administrator window, or you can click the "X" in the upper left
    corner of that window. You can log into any account showing
    for fun if you want (lower left corner choices). If everything
    is working, when you reboot the computer, any changes should
    now be working, and say, the Rob account could have new Administrator privileges.
    That's what this is for. Getting away from entering some foreign-account PIN. We need an account which you control, to have Administrators privileges.

    Paul



    Do I have this sequence right now?

    • select settings
    • select update/security
    • select recovery - restart now
    • select Troubleshoot
    • select advanced options
    • select start-up settings
    • I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
    • in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands

    C:
    cd Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
    copy cmd.exe sethc .exe

    • close CMD prompt
    • re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4

    • at CMD prompt enter commands

    C:
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD

    • press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged
    in yet
    • verify account has changed to Administrator
    • re-boot with Rescue media
    • select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack

    C:
    cd Windows\System 32
    del sethc.exe
    ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe


    I can just leave the Rescue CD in when I reboot
    and just not select it or do you think its better I take it
    out before I reboot to the WBM?.


    Once we have it working as Admin Account I can go into
    the CMD prompt and do

    C:
    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD

    could I make my own like this as a simple example? What would this do?

    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user Robert abc123 /ADD



    Robert



    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Dec 23 23:51:24 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 1:33 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/23/2023 1:37 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I completed the MediaCreationTool download
    but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
    options for the Patriot.

    https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP

    https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn

    https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH

    https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8

    Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:

    https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.

    I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
    double sided DVD's.


    Robert


    The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
    for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
    bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.

    DVD-R SL   4,707,319,808
    DVD+R SL   4,700,372,992
    DVD-R DL   8,543,666,176
    DVD+R DL   8,547,991,552

    The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
    Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
    Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie . >>>>> Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.

    You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
    how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media.

    It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
    it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
    Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
    A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.

         http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E

         md F:\WORK        # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK

         # Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.

          sources\
          efi\
          ...
          autorun.inf

         # First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\ >>>>>
          F:\WORK\sources\        # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.

         # The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
         # The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.

          oscdimg ...  F:\WORK   F:\W190364.iso   # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
                                                  # For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .

    *******

    For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
    to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
    on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
    the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
    attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
    disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
    with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.

         # your boot error

         https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
    at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
    work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
    it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)

        Paul



    Do I have this sequence right?

    •    select settings
    •    select update/security
    •    select recovery - restart now
    •    select Troubleshoot
    •    select advanced options
    •    select start-up settings
    •    I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
    •    in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands

    cd Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
    copy cmd.exe sethc .exe

    •    close CMD prompt
    •    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4 (I've never seen those startup settings before)

    There's is no shut down/restart command in macrium. When doing mrimgs I usually
    remove the CD from the drive. Then close Macrium and wait for the screen to go black and then pull the USB connection then I get the WBM screen. So I would still close macrium and then when it restarts I could select Safe mode then. Is that what you
    want me to do?

    I see you have a new account Lowboy your using so will I also have a new account
    that I will be using but can I still access the CMD prompt without logging in ?

    •    enter commands

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl  /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP  /ADD

    •    press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged in yet
    •    verify account has changed to Administrator
    •    re-boot with Rescue media
    •    select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack

    C:
    cd Windows\System 32
    del sethc.exe
    ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe




    Robert

    This sequence, needs C: as the first line. You MUST switch to the
    C: partition, before the other three commands. There are four lines of input.
    The first line has the two characters in it.

    C:                                     # This changes to the C: partition
    cd Windows\System32                    # Current directory is C:\Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak            # This renames the original file, for safe keeping
    copy cmd.exe sethc.exe                 # This places cmd.exe in place of sethc.exe file, as a "fake"

    *******

    Macrium does have a selector for shutdown/restart. It's in
    newer versions of the Macrium Rescue CD. It is the red button
    in the lower left corner. Clicking it, if there is a selector, it
    will have as options "Reboot" or "Shutdown" showing in a tiny dialog box. >>> That's where you get to select it.

    *******

    When you have the Administrator level window to work in, you can
    do anything you want. This sequence for example, adds a new account
    that has administrator rights. This account is TEMP. And the
    password is "qwerty1".

        C:\WINDOWS\system32>    net user TEMP qwertyl  /ADD
        C:\WINDOWS\system32>    net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP  /ADD

    You could do a third line at that time, like this. This would
    add the account "Rob" to the Administrators group. This assumes
    the "Rob" account already exists. That's why the command only
    has the one line. "Rob" must exist and be a working account, for this
    to be worth doing.

                                net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD

    See how easy this is ? And how much fun ?

    Do not be distracted by the accounts showing in my diagram.
    ("Lowboy" is the unelevated account, I use to "test for handcuffs" in the OS.)

    What happens to the computer during this procedure, does not "rely" on the account choices.
    What matters, is entering those commands in the Administrator window.

    That's why we're doing the hack, is to regain control of the computer
    so we can do other important work.

    Once the hack lines are entered, you can type "exit" into the
    Administrator window, or you can click the "X" in the upper left
    corner of that window. You can log into any account showing
    for fun if you want (lower left corner choices). If everything
    is working, when you reboot the computer, any changes should
    now be working, and say, the Rob account could have new Administrator privileges.
    That's what this is for. Getting away from entering some foreign-account PIN.
    We need an account which you control, to have Administrators privileges. >>>
        Paul



    Do I have this sequence right now?

    • select settings
    • select update/security
    • select recovery - restart now
    • select Troubleshoot
    • select advanced options
    • select start-up settings
    • I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
    • in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands

    C:
    cd Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
    copy cmd.exe sethc .exe

    • close CMD prompt
    • re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4

    • at CMD prompt enter commands

    C:
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD

    • press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged >> in yet
    • verify account has changed to Administrator
    • re-boot with Rescue media
    • select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack

    C:
    cd Windows\System 32
    del sethc.exe
    ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe


     I can just leave the Rescue CD in when I reboot
    and just not select it or do you think its better I take it
    out before I reboot to the WBM?.


    Once we have it working as Admin Account I can go into
    the CMD prompt and do

    C:
    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD

    could I make my own like this as a simple example? What would this do?

    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user Robert abc123 /ADD

    Robert

    That last command, makes an un-elevated user Robert.
    You need a second line after it, so it is elevated.

    net user Robert abc123 /ADD # Create Robert account with password abc123

    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Robert /ADD # Add Robert to the Administrators group

    And be careful of your syntax, OK ?
    No more of those excess space characters.

    This part of the command, is already on the screen.
    It's the "prompt" and it shows the current working directory, then a greater-than symbol.
    You don't type this part.

    C:\WINDOWS\system32>

    The letters you type, are this much.

    net user Robert abc123 /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Robert /ADD

    Those commands do not have any particular dependency on the working directory.

    However, the Macrium file copy work, it *does* depend on the working directory
    being done correctly. The Macrium environment boots to X: and then
    we have to change the Macrium path to C: to get the commands carried
    out on the C: drive. (The X: directory is transient, and it disappears
    as soon as Macrium is shut down. Whereas C: is always with us.)

    Paul



    I also got this error on the newsgroup.
    I've gotten a couple like this.


    https://postimg.cc/V5cbBR0n

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Dec 23 23:48:55 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 1:33 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/23/2023 1:37 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I completed the MediaCreationTool download
    but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
    options for the Patriot.

    https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP

    https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn

    https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH

    https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8

    Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:

    https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.

    I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
    double sided DVD's.


    Robert


    The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
    for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
    bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.

    DVD-R SL   4,707,319,808
    DVD+R SL   4,700,372,992
    DVD-R DL   8,543,666,176
    DVD+R DL   8,547,991,552

    The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
    Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
    Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie . >>>>> Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.

    You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
    how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media.

    It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
    it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
    Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
    A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.

         http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E

         md F:\WORK        # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK

         # Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.

          sources\
          efi\
          ...
          autorun.inf

         # First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\ >>>>>
          F:\WORK\sources\        # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.

         # The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
         # The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.

          oscdimg ...  F:\WORK   F:\W190364.iso   # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
                                                  # For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .

    *******

    For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
    to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
    on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
    the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
    attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
    disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
    with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.

         # your boot error

         https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
    at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
    work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
    it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)

        Paul



    Do I have this sequence right?

    •    select settings
    •    select update/security
    •    select recovery - restart now
    •    select Troubleshoot
    •    select advanced options
    •    select start-up settings
    •    I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
    •    in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands

    cd Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
    copy cmd.exe sethc .exe

    •    close CMD prompt
    •    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4 (I've never seen those startup settings before)

    There's is no shut down/restart command in macrium. When doing mrimgs I usually
    remove the CD from the drive. Then close Macrium and wait for the screen to go black and then pull the USB connection then I get the WBM screen. So I would still close macrium and then when it restarts I could select Safe mode then. Is that what you
    want me to do?

    I see you have a new account Lowboy your using so will I also have a new account
    that I will be using but can I still access the CMD prompt without logging in ?

    •    enter commands

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl  /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP  /ADD

    •    press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged in yet
    •    verify account has changed to Administrator
    •    re-boot with Rescue media
    •    select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack

    C:
    cd Windows\System 32
    del sethc.exe
    ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe




    Robert

    This sequence, needs C: as the first line. You MUST switch to the
    C: partition, before the other three commands. There are four lines of input.
    The first line has the two characters in it.

    C:                                     # This changes to the C: partition
    cd Windows\System32                    # Current directory is C:\Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak            # This renames the original file, for safe keeping
    copy cmd.exe sethc.exe                 # This places cmd.exe in place of sethc.exe file, as a "fake"

    *******

    Macrium does have a selector for shutdown/restart. It's in
    newer versions of the Macrium Rescue CD. It is the red button
    in the lower left corner. Clicking it, if there is a selector, it
    will have as options "Reboot" or "Shutdown" showing in a tiny dialog box. >>> That's where you get to select it.

    *******

    When you have the Administrator level window to work in, you can
    do anything you want. This sequence for example, adds a new account
    that has administrator rights. This account is TEMP. And the
    password is "qwerty1".

        C:\WINDOWS\system32>    net user TEMP qwertyl  /ADD
        C:\WINDOWS\system32>    net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP  /ADD

    You could do a third line at that time, like this. This would
    add the account "Rob" to the Administrators group. This assumes
    the "Rob" account already exists. That's why the command only
    has the one line. "Rob" must exist and be a working account, for this
    to be worth doing.

                                net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD

    See how easy this is ? And how much fun ?

    Do not be distracted by the accounts showing in my diagram.
    ("Lowboy" is the unelevated account, I use to "test for handcuffs" in the OS.)

    What happens to the computer during this procedure, does not "rely" on the account choices.
    What matters, is entering those commands in the Administrator window.

    That's why we're doing the hack, is to regain control of the computer
    so we can do other important work.

    Once the hack lines are entered, you can type "exit" into the
    Administrator window, or you can click the "X" in the upper left
    corner of that window. You can log into any account showing
    for fun if you want (lower left corner choices). If everything
    is working, when you reboot the computer, any changes should
    now be working, and say, the Rob account could have new Administrator privileges.
    That's what this is for. Getting away from entering some foreign-account PIN.
    We need an account which you control, to have Administrators privileges. >>>
        Paul



    Do I have this sequence right now?

    • select settings
    • select update/security
    • select recovery - restart now
    • select Troubleshoot
    • select advanced options
    • select start-up settings
    • I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
    • in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands

    C:
    cd Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
    copy cmd.exe sethc .exe

    • close CMD prompt
    • re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4

    • at CMD prompt enter commands

    C:
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD

    • press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged >> in yet
    • verify account has changed to Administrator
    • re-boot with Rescue media
    • select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack

    C:
    cd Windows\System 32
    del sethc.exe
    ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe


     I can just leave the Rescue CD in when I reboot
    and just not select it or do you think its better I take it
    out before I reboot to the WBM?.


    Once we have it working as Admin Account I can go into
    the CMD prompt and do

    C:
    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD

    could I make my own like this as a simple example? What would this do?

    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user Robert abc123 /ADD

    Robert

    That last command, makes an un-elevated user Robert.
    You need a second line after it, so it is elevated.

    net user Robert abc123 /ADD # Create Robert account with password abc123

    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Robert /ADD # Add Robert to the Administrators group

    And be careful of your syntax, OK ?
    No more of those excess space characters.

    This part of the command, is already on the screen.
    It's the "prompt" and it shows the current working directory, then a greater-than symbol.
    You don't type this part.

    C:\WINDOWS\system32>

    The letters you type, are this much.

    net user Robert abc123 /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Robert /ADD

    Those commands do not have any particular dependency on the working directory.

    However, the Macrium file copy work, it *does* depend on the working directory
    being done correctly. The Macrium environment boots to X: and then
    we have to change the Macrium path to C: to get the commands carried
    out on the C: drive. (The X: directory is transient, and it disappears
    as soon as Macrium is shut down. Whereas C: is always with us.)

    Paul



    I tried it and everything went OK until the end where
    I had to sign-in because it had no CMD prompt access
    at that point.

    https://postimg.cc/qh3gXfQ2

    https://postimg.cc/MvWKXjk7

    https://postimg.cc/hf5hXb9k

    https://postimg.cc/XpG4zMCP

    https://postimg.cc/HJ3qL3M5

    https://postimg.cc/1VF7DK8v

    https://postimg.cc/v4hq7Tmw

    https://postimg.cc/zbs0DRxK

    https://postimg.cc/z3hxt0fj

    https://postimg.cc/KkPJz8wW

    https://postimg.cc/RNk6PLNc


    So what do I do now?

    Robert


    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 24 03:43:00 2023
    On 12/24/2023 2:51 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I also got this error on the newsgroup.
    I've gotten a couple like this.


    https://postimg.cc/V5cbBR0n

    Robert

    Paganini likely has defensive measures, and something your
    client is doing may have triggered it. Or, another theory
    would be, it is something related to the SeaMonkey code.

    Modern INN servers, they use transient connections. The
    client makes a connection, carries out a few commands, and the
    server drops the connection.

    This is unlike in the old days, where a news client would stay
    connected for fifteen minutes perhaps, before a connection would
    drop.

    This method allows the server to support more connections, because
    each connection has a short holding time.

    If you violate one of the service rules (say, more than 1200
    connections a day, more than so many posted messages), then one
    of these free servers can block your IP for a whole day.

    Some servers lack a web page, so you can hardly guess how
    they work in that case.

    I've never had a problem with that sort of thing, and it is
    hard to debug a problem like that unless it is reproducible.

    The news client should do a few things, before popping a 10060.
    It should be verifying the connection is up or down, if the
    connection is down, it repeats the authentication procedure and
    brings the connection back up. Well, this server has no authentication procedure. But you do have to issue commands in a certain order
    to make the server work. On the first access, the server may
    return a 200 status. And then more commands can be issued, to
    update the message lists. So rather than authentication, it
    would at least have to do the preamble again, in order to honor
    the command you're trying to run (which might be a POST attempt).

    Since you're on Port 119 (Plaintext) on the server, you could use
    Wireshark to watch the network protocol. That's how I learned what
    the messages look like. Portions of them are in plain text and
    you can figure out how it is going, by watching the text. I'm not
    expecting you to do that, but that's just so you know what the
    analysis would be like. It would be Wireshark. And that works on
    Port 119. If it was another port number, like 563, then you couldn't
    follow along.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 24 04:04:12 2023
    On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
    pressing:

    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4

    It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
    prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
    your instructions.

    Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
    and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
    prompt from macrium?

    Robert

    When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
    Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear.

    Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft
    didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
    administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing.

    Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
    for machine control.

    MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.

    If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
    reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
    the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
    daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
    can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member.
    You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password
    is absolutely necessary.

    https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e

    Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
    mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
    machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
    cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
    SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 24 03:58:15 2023
    On 12/24/2023 2:48 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I tried it and everything went OK until the end where
    I had to sign-in because it had no CMD prompt access
    at that point.

    https://postimg.cc/qh3gXfQ2

    https://postimg.cc/MvWKXjk7

    https://postimg.cc/hf5hXb9k

    https://postimg.cc/XpG4zMCP

    https://postimg.cc/HJ3qL3M5

    https://postimg.cc/1VF7DK8v

    https://postimg.cc/v4hq7Tmw

    https://postimg.cc/zbs0DRxK

    https://postimg.cc/z3hxt0fj

    https://postimg.cc/KkPJz8wW

    https://postimg.cc/RNk6PLNc


    So what do I do now?

    Robert

    https://postimg.cc/RNk6PLNc

    In big red letters in the diagram, it said to
    hit the shift key five times in succession, which would
    cause the Sticky Keys to trigger, opening the "fake"
    sethc.exe we made, which is actually cmd.exe .

    Did you undo the modifications to sethc ?
    Did you rename sethc.exe.bak to sethc.exe ?

    If you haven't undone the settings, you can do the
    Safe Mode procedure again, bring yourself back to this point

    https://postimg.cc/RNk6PLNc

    and hit the shift key five times WITHOUT logging in first.
    When the login screen appears, it is ready to be attacked
    with the five hits on the shift key.

    Once the administrator account opens, you can define
    whatever administrator account you want.

    Remember, the important parts of this procedure, require
    no authentication at all. Once you're in the administrator
    window, you can do whatever work needs to be done. If you need
    to reset the password on the Rob account, you could undoubtedly do it there.

    new user Rob thisismynewpassword

    You can see a user here, gets a bit confused about what
    account he changed the password on. He changed the
    password of the "Real Administrator" account, instead of
    the password on his personal account. The helper showed
    him at the end of the thread, he should have modded his personal
    account if he was locked out.

    https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e

    I don't know if your Rob password is working right now. If
    the password on Rob account is working, then there is no need
    to change it right away.

    Remember, our mission is to make "ONE FULLY WORKING ACCOUNT
    BELONGING TO ADMINISTRATORS GROUP". We need to get a foot into
    the door. Any other maintenance can be done from the jacked account.

    For example, with the TEMP account I made as my example, I could
    delete the Lowboy and Earnest accounts, and clean up the machine.
    Once I'm in, and I'm the boss :-)

    Making the Rob account a member of Administrators is nice, but
    if the password is not working, our mission is a failure. We
    need to make at least one, fully working account. Even if the
    account has a password of qwerty1 or 123456, write the password
    down so you won't forget it.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 24 01:05:03 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 2:51 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I also got this error on the newsgroup.
    I've gotten a couple like this.


    https://postimg.cc/V5cbBR0n

    Robert

    Paganini likely has defensive measures, and something your
    client is doing may have triggered it. Or, another theory
    would be, it is something related to the SeaMonkey code.

    Modern INN servers, they use transient connections. The
    client makes a connection, carries out a few commands, and the
    server drops the connection.

    This is unlike in the old days, where a news client would stay
    connected for fifteen minutes perhaps, before a connection would
    drop.

    This method allows the server to support more connections, because
    each connection has a short holding time.

    If you violate one of the service rules (say, more than 1200
    connections a day, more than so many posted messages), then one
    of these free servers can block your IP for a whole day.

    Some servers lack a web page, so you can hardly guess how
    they work in that case.

    I've never had a problem with that sort of thing, and it is
    hard to debug a problem like that unless it is reproducible.

    The news client should do a few things, before popping a 10060.
    It should be verifying the connection is up or down, if the
    connection is down, it repeats the authentication procedure and
    brings the connection back up. Well, this server has no authentication procedure. But you do have to issue commands in a certain order
    to make the server work. On the first access, the server may
    return a 200 status. And then more commands can be issued, to
    update the message lists. So rather than authentication, it
    would at least have to do the preamble again, in order to honor
    the command you're trying to run (which might be a POST attempt).

    Since you're on Port 119 (Plaintext) on the server, you could use
    Wireshark to watch the network protocol. That's how I learned what
    the messages look like. Portions of them are in plain text and
    you can figure out how it is going, by watching the text. I'm not
    expecting you to do that, but that's just so you know what the
    analysis would be like. It would be Wireshark. And that works on
    Port 119. If it was another port number, like 563, then you couldn't
    follow along.

    Paul





    I tried to finish the procedure by using the Rescue media
    to access the CMD prompt. I did the first command wrong but
    the second time it also rejected it.

    https://postimg.cc/7C5XrVqm

    I also got one of the error messages again before I posted
    this.

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert



    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 24 00:29:29 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 1:33 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/23/2023 1:37 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/22/2023 8:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    I completed the MediaCreationTool download
    but it would only burn DVD's. there were no
    options for the Patriot.

    https://postimg.cc/tZHsJXTP

    https://postimg.cc/sv2vvHVn

    https://postimg.cc/5Q2NQjMH

    https://postimg.cc/5jstd5w8

    Then I switched hd again and tried the one labeled bad:

    https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    I put the 780 Win 10 hd back in.

    I'm broke until the 27th and then I can buy the
    double sided DVD's.


    Robert


    The first four postimg images, yes, the IMAPI2 (or any other burner
    for that matter), can't put more than about 4,700,000,000
    bytes or so on a single-layer DVD. The numbers are in Wikipedia.

    DVD-R SL   4,707,319,808
    DVD+R SL   4,700,372,992
    DVD-R DL   8,543,666,176
    DVD+R DL   8,547,991,552

    The Linux version might be well above 4,700 while the
    Windows MediaCreationTool version is just a bit too big.
    Both of them would fit on a Patriot stick of 8GB size using rufus.ie . >>>>> Dual-layer DVD would also work for both.

    You don't have to do the following. It's just an illustration of
    how you deal with the too-big DVD, when all you own is single layer media.

    It's possible to artificially trim the DVD size down, to make
    it fit. You need a copy of "oscdimg.exe", and when you got the
    Macrium download, it's possible that file would be in there.
    A WADK kit (a long download) would also have it.

         http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cqcf19p%242ej%241%40dont-email.me%3E

         md F:\WORK        # make a temporary directory for the work, 20GB slack should be OK

         # Copy the original mounted ISO contents into WORK. This will take a while.

          sources\
          efi\
          ...
          autorun.inf

         # First part of process, works on a specific file in sources\ >>>>>
          F:\WORK\sources\        # The Export-Image stuff, this makes a smaller WIM file, key to the procedure.

         # The oscdimg part, it uses the contents of F:\WORK to make F:\new.iso kind of thing.
         # The three lines of command go onto one command line, with a space between line contents.

          oscdimg ...  F:\WORK   F:\W190364.iso   # A new, smaller DVD W190364.iso, with only Windows 10 Pro in it.
                                                  # For your work, you'd pick a descriptive name for your new.iso .

    *******

    For the boot problem, you'd need to do Disk Management analysis
    to see if the partitions are intact. The Macrium "Boot Repair"
    on the CD may work, but only if there isn't severe damage to
    the content on the drive. This could also happen, if you
    attempt to rebuild the boot details, when too many unrelated
    disks are also in the computer. Boot repair should be done
    with just the affected hard drive being the only storage.

         # your boot error

         https://postimg.cc/G9f1xXFg

    Note that boot repair does not always work. I've tried and tried
    at various times to fix hard drives, and the repair just does not
    work. So if it does not work, it's not exactly unexpected. But
    it is pleasant when it does decide to work :-)

        Paul



    Do I have this sequence right?

    •    select settings
    •    select update/security
    •    select recovery - restart now
    •    select Troubleshoot
    •    select advanced options
    •    select start-up settings
    •    I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
    •    in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands

    cd Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
    copy cmd.exe sethc .exe

    •    close CMD prompt
    •    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4 (I've never seen those startup settings before)

    There's is no shut down/restart command in macrium. When doing mrimgs I usually
    remove the CD from the drive. Then close Macrium and wait for the screen to go black and then pull the USB connection then I get the WBM screen. So I would still close macrium and then when it restarts I could select Safe mode then. Is that what you
    want me to do?

    I see you have a new account Lowboy your using so will I also have a new account
    that I will be using but can I still access the CMD prompt without logging in ?

    •    enter commands

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl  /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP  /ADD

    •    press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged in yet
    •    verify account has changed to Administrator
    •    re-boot with Rescue media
    •    select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack

    C:
    cd Windows\System 32
    del sethc.exe
    ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe




    Robert

    This sequence, needs C: as the first line. You MUST switch to the
    C: partition, before the other three commands. There are four lines of input.
    The first line has the two characters in it.

    C:                                     # This changes to the C: partition
    cd Windows\System32                    # Current directory is C:\Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak            # This renames the original file, for safe keeping
    copy cmd.exe sethc.exe                 # This places cmd.exe in place of sethc.exe file, as a "fake"

    *******

    Macrium does have a selector for shutdown/restart. It's in
    newer versions of the Macrium Rescue CD. It is the red button
    in the lower left corner. Clicking it, if there is a selector, it
    will have as options "Reboot" or "Shutdown" showing in a tiny dialog box. >>> That's where you get to select it.

    *******

    When you have the Administrator level window to work in, you can
    do anything you want. This sequence for example, adds a new account
    that has administrator rights. This account is TEMP. And the
    password is "qwerty1".

        C:\WINDOWS\system32>    net user TEMP qwertyl  /ADD
        C:\WINDOWS\system32>    net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP  /ADD

    You could do a third line at that time, like this. This would
    add the account "Rob" to the Administrators group. This assumes
    the "Rob" account already exists. That's why the command only
    has the one line. "Rob" must exist and be a working account, for this
    to be worth doing.

                                net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD

    See how easy this is ? And how much fun ?

    Do not be distracted by the accounts showing in my diagram.
    ("Lowboy" is the unelevated account, I use to "test for handcuffs" in the OS.)

    What happens to the computer during this procedure, does not "rely" on the account choices.
    What matters, is entering those commands in the Administrator window.

    That's why we're doing the hack, is to regain control of the computer
    so we can do other important work.

    Once the hack lines are entered, you can type "exit" into the
    Administrator window, or you can click the "X" in the upper left
    corner of that window. You can log into any account showing
    for fun if you want (lower left corner choices). If everything
    is working, when you reboot the computer, any changes should
    now be working, and say, the Rob account could have new Administrator privileges.
    That's what this is for. Getting away from entering some foreign-account PIN.
    We need an account which you control, to have Administrators privileges. >>>
        Paul



    Do I have this sequence right now?

    • select settings
    • select update/security
    • select recovery - restart now
    • select Troubleshoot
    • select advanced options
    • select start-up settings
    • I load the 780 Win10 Rescue CD
    • in macirum, use CMD prompt to enter commands

    C:
    cd Windows\System32
    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak
    copy cmd.exe sethc .exe

    • close CMD prompt
    • re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4

    • at CMD prompt enter commands

    C:
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD

    • press shift key 5 times (sticky keys) - opens Admin window, not logged >> in yet
    • verify account has changed to Administrator
    • re-boot with Rescue media
    • select CMD prompt and enter commands to remove the hack

    C:
    cd Windows\System 32
    del sethc.exe
    ren sethc.exe.bak sethc.exe


     I can just leave the Rescue CD in when I reboot
    and just not select it or do you think its better I take it
    out before I reboot to the WBM?.


    Once we have it working as Admin Account I can go into
    the CMD prompt and do

    C:
    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD
    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD

    could I make my own like this as a simple example? What would this do?

    C:\WINDOWS\system32> net user Robert abc123 /ADD

    Robert

    That last command, makes an un-elevated user Robert.
    You need a second line after it, so it is elevated.

    net user Robert abc123 /ADD # Create Robert account with password abc123

    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Robert /ADD # Add Robert to the Administrators group

    And be careful of your syntax, OK ?
    No more of those excess space characters.

    This part of the command, is already on the screen.
    It's the "prompt" and it shows the current working directory, then a greater-than symbol.
    You don't type this part.

    C:\WINDOWS\system32>

    The letters you type, are this much.

    net user Robert abc123 /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Robert /ADD

    Those commands do not have any particular dependency on the working directory.

    However, the Macrium file copy work, it *does* depend on the working directory
    being done correctly. The Macrium environment boots to X: and then
    we have to change the Macrium path to C: to get the commands carried
    out on the C: drive. (The X: directory is transient, and it disappears
    as soon as Macrium is shut down. Whereas C: is always with us.)

    Paul




    I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
    pressing:

    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4

    It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
    prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
    your instructions.

    Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
    and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
    prompt from macrium?

    Robert



    _







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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 24 01:52:35 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
    pressing:

    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4

    It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
    prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
    your instructions.

    Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
    and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
    prompt from macrium?

    Robert

    When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
    Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear.

    Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft
    didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
    administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing.

    Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
    for machine control.

    MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.

    If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
    reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
    the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
    daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
    can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member.
    You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password
    is absolutely necessary.

    https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e

    Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
    mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
    machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
    cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
    SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.

    Paul


    I tried again but it said there was already a user by that name so I
    restarted it but it came up with the menu and I pressed safe mode 4 and
    this time I tapped 5 times and the CMD
    prompt appeared. However it didn't like the commands.

    It already had

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>

    so I just added, net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    thus

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    It said DNS server not authoritative for zone

    I tried it again and then is said

    https://postimg.cc/jwbR3fk2

    https://postimg.cc/jCRszz7k

    The user name could not be found

    so I exited, and rebooted the computer.

    Were getting closer but still not there and because I tried
    before the computer remembers it sees the other user name.

    Robert



    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 24 05:34:10 2023
    On 12/24/2023 4:05 AM, Robert in CA wrote:





    I tried to finish the procedure by using the Rescue media
    to access the CMD prompt. I did the first command wrong but
    the second time it also rejected it.

    https://postimg.cc/7C5XrVqm

    I also got one of the error messages again before I posted
    this.

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    You weren't supposed to be typing in the prompt

    prompt> command goes here

    The prompt is presented by the shell. For example,
    when you do this much

    C:
    cd Windows\system32

    the prompt shows you what the current working directory is.
    Those two lines of input, they changed the current working directory,
    and the prompt allows you to eyeball what the CWD is while you are
    working. You were supposed to be working in C:\Windows\system32.

    When you type the rest of the commands, like say

    ren sethc.exe sethc.exe.bak

    you played no part in making the prompt. Just enter the command.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 24 05:39:29 2023
    On 12/24/2023 4:52 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
    pressing:

    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4

    It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
    prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
    your instructions.

    Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
    and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
    prompt from macrium?

    Robert

    When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
    Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear.

    Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft
    didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
    administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing.

    Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
    for machine control.

         MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.

    If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
    reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
    the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
    daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
    can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member.
    You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password
    is absolutely necessary.

    https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e

    Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
    mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
    machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
    cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
    SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.

        Paul


    I tried again but it said there was already a user by that name so I restarted it  but it came up with the menu and I pressed safe mode 4 and this time I tapped 5 times and the CMD
    prompt appeared. However it didn't like the commands.

    It already had

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>

    so I just added, net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    thus

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    It said DNS server not authoritative for zone

    I tried it again and then is said

    https://postimg.cc/jwbR3fk2

    https://postimg.cc/jCRszz7k

    The user name could not be found

    so I exited, and rebooted the computer.

    Were getting closer but still not there and because I tried
    before the computer remembers it sees the other user name.

    Robert

    There is a space between the password and the next command

    net user TEMP qwerty1 /ADD

    ^
    |
    +--- Space goes there. I used three spaces for emphasis.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 24 09:54:51 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 4:52 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
    pressing:

    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4

    It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
    prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
    your instructions.

    Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
    and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
    prompt from macrium?

    Robert

    When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
    Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear.

    Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft
    didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
    administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing.

    Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
    for machine control.

         MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.

    If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
    reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
    the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
    daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
    can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member.
    You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password
    is absolutely necessary.

    https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e

    Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
    mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
    machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
    cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
    SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.

        Paul


    I tried again but it said there was already a user by that name so I restarted it  but it came up with the menu and I pressed safe mode 4 and this time I tapped 5 times and the CMD
    prompt appeared. However it didn't like the commands.

    It already had

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>

    so I just added, net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    thus

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    It said DNS server not authoritative for zone

    I tried it again and then is said

    https://postimg.cc/jwbR3fk2

    https://postimg.cc/jCRszz7k

    The user name could not be found

    so I exited, and rebooted the computer.

    Were getting closer but still not there and because I tried
    before the computer remembers it sees the other user name.

    Robert

    There is a space between the password and the next command

    net user TEMP qwerty1 /ADD

    ^
    |
    +--- Space goes there. I used three spaces for emphasis.

    Paul






    I tried again but it still see's the first attempt account and says
    there's a duplicate account and doesn't let me proceed with the needed
    commands but when I restart it takes me to the menu to press 4 and so I
    entered the commands with spacing but it says no user.

    https://postimg.cc/xqXXCDLf

    I need a new User name /password to work with for this to work;
    like TEMP1 qwertym ? Can I do that?

    Robert



    _




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 24 18:01:35 2023
    On 12/24/2023 12:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 4:52 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
    pressing:

    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4

    It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
    prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
    your instructions.

    Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
    and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
    prompt from macrium?

    Robert

    When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
    Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear.

    Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft
    didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
    administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing.

    Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
    for machine control.

          MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.

    If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
    reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
    the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
    daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
    can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member.
    You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password
    is absolutely necessary.

    https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e

    Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
    mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
    machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
    cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
    SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.

         Paul


    I tried again but it said there was already a user by that name so I restarted it  but it came up with the menu and I pressed safe mode 4 and this time I tapped 5 times and the CMD
    prompt appeared. However it didn't like the commands.

    It already had

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>

    so I just added, net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    thus

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    It said DNS server not authoritative for zone

    I tried it again and then is said

    https://postimg.cc/jwbR3fk2

    https://postimg.cc/jCRszz7k

    The user name could not be found

    so I exited, and rebooted the computer.

    Were getting closer but still not there and because I tried
    before the computer remembers it sees the other user name.

    Robert

    There is a space between the password and the next command

        net user TEMP qwerty1   /ADD

                              ^
                              |
                              +--- Space goes there. I used three spaces for emphasis.

        Paul






    I tried again but it still see's the first attempt account and says there's a duplicate account and doesn't let me proceed with the needed commands but when I restart it takes me to the menu to press 4 and so I entered the commands with spacing but it
    says no user.

    https://postimg.cc/xqXXCDLf

    I need a new User name /password to work with for this to work;
    like TEMP1 qwertym ? Can I do that?

    Robert


    There is a space character between the password "querty1" and the /ADD command.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 24 19:17:36 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 12:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 4:52 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
    pressing:

    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4

    It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
    prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
    your instructions.

    Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
    and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
    prompt from macrium?

    Robert

    When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
    Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear. >>>>>
    Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft
    didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
    administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing. >>>>>
    Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
    for machine control.

          MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.

    If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
    reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
    the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
    daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
    can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member.
    You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password
    is absolutely necessary.

    https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e

    Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
    mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
    machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
    cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
    SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.

         Paul


    I tried again but it said there was already a user by that name so I restarted it  but it came up with the menu and I pressed safe mode 4 and this time I tapped 5 times and the CMD
    prompt appeared. However it didn't like the commands.

    It already had

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>

    so I just added, net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    thus

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    It said DNS server not authoritative for zone

    I tried it again and then is said

    https://postimg.cc/jwbR3fk2

    https://postimg.cc/jCRszz7k

    The user name could not be found

    so I exited, and rebooted the computer.

    Were getting closer but still not there and because I tried
    before the computer remembers it sees the other user name.

    Robert

    There is a space between the password and the next command

        net user TEMP qwerty1   /ADD

                              ^
                              |
                              +--- Space goes there. I used three spaces for emphasis.

        Paul






    I tried again but it still see's the first attempt account and says there's a duplicate account and doesn't let me proceed with the needed commands but when I restart it takes me to the menu to press 4 and so I entered the commands with spacing but it
    says no user.

    https://postimg.cc/xqXXCDLf

    I need a new User name /password to work with for this to work;
    like TEMP1 qwertym ? Can I do that?

    Robert


    There is a space character between the password "querty1" and the /ADD command.

    Paul



    I tried again,... I don't know if it worked or not
    but it took the commands.

    https://postimg.cc/VdtvVwzH


    How do I verify it?

    What now?

    Robert


    _



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 24 23:27:07 2023
    On 12/24/2023 10:17 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 12:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 4:52 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
    pressing:

    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4

    It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
    prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
    your instructions.

    Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
    and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
    prompt from macrium?

    Robert

    When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
    Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear. >>>>>>
    Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft
    didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
    administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing. >>>>>>
    Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
    for machine control.

           MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.

    If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
    reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
    the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
    daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
    can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member. >>>>>> You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password
    is absolutely necessary.

    https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e

    Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
    mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
    machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
    cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
    SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.

          Paul


    I tried again but it said there was already a user by that name so I restarted it  but it came up with the menu and I pressed safe mode 4 and this time I tapped 5 times and the CMD
    prompt appeared. However it didn't like the commands.

    It already had

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>

    so I just added, net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    thus

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    It said DNS server not authoritative for zone

    I tried it again and then is said

    https://postimg.cc/jwbR3fk2

    https://postimg.cc/jCRszz7k

    The user name could not be found

    so I exited, and rebooted the computer.

    Were getting closer but still not there and because I tried
    before the computer remembers it sees the other user name.

    Robert

    There is a space between the password and the next command

         net user TEMP qwerty1   /ADD

                               ^
                               |
                               +--- Space goes there. I used three spaces for emphasis.

         Paul






    I tried again but it still see's the first attempt account and says there's a duplicate account and doesn't let me proceed with the needed commands but when I restart it takes me to the menu to press 4 and so I entered the commands with spacing but
    it says no user.

    https://postimg.cc/xqXXCDLf

    I need a new User name /password to work with for this to work;
    like TEMP1 qwertym ? Can I do that?

    Robert


    There is a space character between the password "querty1" and the /ADD command.

        Paul


    I tried again,... I don't know if it worked or not
    but it took the commands.

    https://postimg.cc/VdtvVwzH


    How do I verify it?

    What now?

    Robert

    This is where we are now:

    net user TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # You have successfully created account TEMP, with a password
    # You should not need to enter this command again, as now
    # TEMP is a login item (on next reboot, it will be listed.

    net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD # The space between LOCAL and GROUP should be removed.
    # LOCALGROUP is a reference to the setting of membership
    # in a non-domain group.

    Once you issue this last command to make the account belong to administrators, you should be done.
    This is the only account preventing us from "owning" our own computer :-)
    This command, you do it in the administrators "hacker window".

    net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD

    Then the TEMP account is ready to be used for a login.

    If, after using the administrators window, you login to any
    of the accounts on the left for which you have a password,
    you should be able to review your handiwork. For example,
    once the LOCALGROUP command has been entered, you can do this.

    net user TEMP # review account exists, and belongs to Administrators

    Even as Lowboy (my unelevated test account), I am able
    to list the details of the accounts. I have removed extraneous lines
    so only the relevant parts are listed.

    *******
    PS C:\Users\Lowboy> net user lowboy
    User name Lowboy

    Local Group Memberships *Users <=== Lowboy account, can check the accounts. No Administrators here.
    Global Group memberships *None
    The command completed successfully.

    PS C:\Users\Lowboy> net user bullwinkle
    User name bullwinkle

    Local Group Memberships *Administrators <=== Bullwinkle is how I control the machine
    Global Group memberships *None This will be the TEMP account, when you are done.
    The command completed successfully. net user TEMP will dump the details.
    *******

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 24 23:06:17 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 10:17 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 12:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 4:52 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
    pressing:

    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4

    It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
    prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
    your instructions.

    Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
    and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
    prompt from macrium?

    Robert

    When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
    Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear. >>>>>>>
    Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft >>>>>>> didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
    administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing. >>>>>>>
    Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
    for machine control.

           MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.

    If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
    reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
    the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
    daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
    can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member. >>>>>>> You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password >>>>>>> is absolutely necessary.

    https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e

    Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
    mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
    machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
    cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
    SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.

          Paul


    I tried again but it said there was already a user by that name so I restarted it  but it came up with the menu and I pressed safe mode 4 and this time I tapped 5 times and the CMD
    prompt appeared. However it didn't like the commands.

    It already had

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>

    so I just added, net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    thus

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    It said DNS server not authoritative for zone

    I tried it again and then is said

    https://postimg.cc/jwbR3fk2

    https://postimg.cc/jCRszz7k

    The user name could not be found

    so I exited, and rebooted the computer.

    Were getting closer but still not there and because I tried
    before the computer remembers it sees the other user name.

    Robert

    There is a space between the password and the next command

         net user TEMP qwerty1   /ADD

                               ^
                               |
                               +--- Space goes there. I used three spaces for emphasis.

         Paul






    I tried again but it still see's the first attempt account and says there's a duplicate account and doesn't let me proceed with the needed commands but when I restart it takes me to the menu to press 4 and so I entered the commands with spacing but
    it says no user.

    https://postimg.cc/xqXXCDLf

    I need a new User name /password to work with for this to work;
    like TEMP1 qwertym ? Can I do that?

    Robert


    There is a space character between the password "querty1" and the /ADD command.

        Paul


    I tried again,... I don't know if it worked or not
    but it took the commands.

    https://postimg.cc/VdtvVwzH


    How do I verify it?

    What now?

    Robert

    This is where we are now:

    net user TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # You have successfully created account TEMP, with a password
    # You should not need to enter this command again, as now
    # TEMP is a login item (on next reboot, it will be listed.

    net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD # The space between LOCAL and GROUP should be removed.
    # LOCALGROUP is a reference to the setting of membership
    # in a non-domain group.

    Once you issue this last command to make the account belong to administrators, you should be done.
    This is the only account preventing us from "owning" our own computer :-) This command, you do it in the administrators "hacker window".

    net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD

    Then the TEMP account is ready to be used for a login.

    If, after using the administrators window, you login to any
    of the accounts on the left for which you have a password,
    you should be able to review your handiwork. For example,
    once the LOCALGROUP command has been entered, you can do this.

    net user TEMP # review account exists, and belongs to Administrators

    Even as Lowboy (my unelevated test account), I am able
    to list the details of the accounts. I have removed extraneous lines
    so only the relevant parts are listed.

    *******
    PS C:\Users\Lowboy> net user lowboy
    User name Lowboy

    Local Group Memberships *Users <=== Lowboy account, can check the accounts. No Administrators here.
    Global Group memberships *None
    The command completed successfully.

    PS C:\Users\Lowboy> net user bullwinkle
    User name bullwinkle

    Local Group Memberships *Administrators <=== Bullwinkle is how I control the machine
    Global Group memberships *None This will be the TEMP account, when you are done.
    The command completed successfully. net user TEMP will dump the details.
    *******

    Paul



    Success ! I went into disk management and
    took a pic for you then shutdown the 780.

    https://postimg.cc/JsZMWw46

    https://postimg.cc/k23PsjFx

    https://postimg.cc/94c55rk0

    https://postimg.cc/c62p1DzV

    Next we go into accounts and delete the other
    account with the pin numbers correct?

    After that I need to bring over my A?V suite
    and we'll do the mediacreationtool as soon as
    I get the DVD's. bookmarks,. my Documents
    etc.


    Robert




    _






    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Dec 25 03:53:31 2023
    On 12/25/2023 2:06 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Success !  I went into disk management and
    took a pic for you then shutdown the 780.

    https://postimg.cc/JsZMWw46 # Successful LOCALGROUP command on account TEMP

    https://postimg.cc/k23PsjFx

    https://postimg.cc/94c55rk0 # In Safe Mode

    https://postimg.cc/c62p1DzV # First partition SR/Active,589MB,0x27 Second Parititon C: 1862.45GB, 2TB drive, MSDOS part

    Next we go into accounts and  delete the other
    account with the pin numbers correct?

    After that I need to bring over my A?V suite
    and we'll do the mediacreationtool as soon as
    I get the DVD's. bookmarks,. my Documents
    etc.

    Robert

    So that means, you can now do maintenance, if you log in as TEMP.

    You should be able to do

    net user TEMP # Review details of TEMP account, verify administrators is present

    If the TEMP account is looking good, you can turn the hack off
    from the Macrium LiveCD Command Prompt window. Using the diagram
    I posted with the instructions for the hack.

    If you want to make Rob an Administrator now, you can do it.
    In an Administrator Powershell, you can switch to cmd.exe like this, and do it. Switching to cmd.exe , is necessary some times when you cannot trust the Powershell environment with the execution of one of these commands.

    cmd.exe
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD

    You can then do

    net user Rob

    and verify Rob is now an administrator.

    And if Robs password is not working, you should be able to fix that too.
    As TEMP, you should be able to override Robs local password, but not PIN or cloud MSA password.

    net user Rob NewPasswordGoesHere # Pick a better password than that...

    *******

    +-----+------------------------------+------------------------------------+
    | MBR | System Reserved 589MB Active | C: <Boot> 1862.45GB 1806 free | MSDOS partitioned, suited to Optiplex 780
    +-----+------------------------------+------------------------------------+

    Your C: drive could use a label. In File Explorer, do Properties on it.
    The label allows you to assign a short text string like "OrigW10"
    or "Refurb10", so at a later date, you will remember which OS that is.

    There might be one backup sitting in the C: partition somewhere.

    You can shrink C: from the Disk Management pane. Right click C: and
    there should be a "Shrink Volume" option. You can, for example,
    easily accept the defaults,

    "Enter the amount of space to shrink" <=== the amount will only be half of 1862, or about 931 or so.
    the field might read 931*1024= 953344 Megabytes

    There is some metadata, which is half way out on the C: partition,
    and the Microsoft software refuses to move it. Many third party
    partition managers will agree to move it.

    There are a couple ways you can achieve a more precise shrink (to about 76GB).

    1) Paragon Partition Manager Free Edition (64-bit)

    https://download.cnet.com/paragon-partition-manager-free-edition-64-bit/3000-2248_4-10904411.html

    2) If you do a backup of that C: partition to an external disk, then do
    a restore on top of C:, one of the options is to "resize the partition".
    You can use the resize control during the restore procedure, to achieve a
    76GB partition, with all the original files in place.

    *******

    I don't want to overwhelm you with work.
    I'm just celebrating we might be in control.
    There's no big rush to do things, and they can be done one at a time.

    But at least now, if you need to do something as Administrator,
    you have a few more options.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Dec 25 00:28:42 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 10:17 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 12:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 4:52 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/24/2023 3:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I don't understand where I get the CMD prompt after
    pressing:

    re- restart to WBM with safe mode 4

    It just restarted normally but didn't give me any CMD
    prompt options. Up till that point it worked according to
    your instructions.

    Was I suppose to put in the Rescue media before pressing 4
    and then select it when it restarted? Then select the CMD
    prompt from macrium?

    Robert

    When the Safe Mode login screen appears, you press the
    Shift key five times. A Command Prompt window will magically appear. >>>>>>>
    Remember, this is the "hack step" :-) This is the thing Microsoft >>>>>>> didn't want to happen. You press the Shift key five times, the
    administrator window opens, no login procedure, no password, nothing. >>>>>>>
    Then you get to work, and carry out your devious hacker plan
    for machine control.

           MAKE ONE COMPLETELY WORKING ACCOUNT, PLEASE.

    If the password for Rob is working, then you won't need to
    reset the Rob password, while you are there. The very last line
    the helper used at the bottom of this, demonstrates how the
    daily driver account, has its password reset. So not only
    can you use LOCALGROUP to make Rob an Administrators group member. >>>>>>> You can also reset the password there, if resetting the password >>>>>>> is absolutely necessary.

    https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/cant-reset-forgotten-password-using-net-user/a8b44a62-3903-4023-9bf8-62b2eb237d2e

    Plan your mission, collect the set of commands needed for the
    mission, then it's back to the Safe Mode procedure, to get the
    machine ready for the attack. In Safe Mode, Windows Defender
    cannot stop you. When the Safe Mode login appears, hit the
    SHift key five times. Shazam. You're the administrator.

          Paul


    I tried again but it said there was already a user by that name so I restarted it  but it came up with the menu and I pressed safe mode 4 and this time I tapped 5 times and the CMD
    prompt appeared. However it didn't like the commands.

    It already had

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>

    so I just added, net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    thus

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>net user TEMP qwertyl /ADD

    It said DNS server not authoritative for zone

    I tried it again and then is said

    https://postimg.cc/jwbR3fk2

    https://postimg.cc/jCRszz7k

    The user name could not be found

    so I exited, and rebooted the computer.

    Were getting closer but still not there and because I tried
    before the computer remembers it sees the other user name.

    Robert

    There is a space between the password and the next command

         net user TEMP qwerty1   /ADD

                               ^
                               |
                               +--- Space goes there. I used three spaces for emphasis.

         Paul






    I tried again but it still see's the first attempt account and says there's a duplicate account and doesn't let me proceed with the needed commands but when I restart it takes me to the menu to press 4 and so I entered the commands with spacing but
    it says no user.

    https://postimg.cc/xqXXCDLf

    I need a new User name /password to work with for this to work;
    like TEMP1 qwertym ? Can I do that?

    Robert


    There is a space character between the password "querty1" and the /ADD command.

        Paul


    I tried again,... I don't know if it worked or not
    but it took the commands.

    https://postimg.cc/VdtvVwzH


    How do I verify it?

    What now?

    Robert

    This is where we are now:

    net user TEMP qwerty1 /ADD # You have successfully created account TEMP, with a password
    # You should not need to enter this command again, as now
    # TEMP is a login item (on next reboot, it will be listed.

    net LOCAL GROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD # The space between LOCAL and GROUP should be removed.
    # LOCALGROUP is a reference to the setting of membership
    # in a non-domain group.

    Once you issue this last command to make the account belong to administrators, you should be done.
    This is the only account preventing us from "owning" our own computer :-) This command, you do it in the administrators "hacker window".

    net LOCALGROUP Administrators TEMP /ADD

    Then the TEMP account is ready to be used for a login.

    If, after using the administrators window, you login to any
    of the accounts on the left for which you have a password,
    you should be able to review your handiwork. For example,
    once the LOCALGROUP command has been entered, you can do this.

    net user TEMP # review account exists, and belongs to Administrators

    Even as Lowboy (my unelevated test account), I am able
    to list the details of the accounts. I have removed extraneous lines
    so only the relevant parts are listed.

    *******
    PS C:\Users\Lowboy> net user lowboy
    User name Lowboy

    Local Group Memberships *Users <=== Lowboy account, can check the accounts. No Administrators here.
    Global Group memberships *None
    The command completed successfully.

    PS C:\Users\Lowboy> net user bullwinkle
    User name bullwinkle

    Local Group Memberships *Administrators <=== Bullwinkle is how I control the machine
    Global Group memberships *None This will be the TEMP account, when you are done.
    The command completed successfully. net user TEMP will dump the details.
    *******

    Paul






    I removed the hack,..

    https://postimg.cc/Y4zs3KQT

    then I went back and deleted the other account with the pin numbers. but
    I got a screen I couldn't get around and so I said no to most of it. I wish they wouldn't do things like that. Then got a pop-up for my ergonomic
    keyboard and didn't know what to do with that either so I closed it.

    https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3

    https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK

    https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm

    https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG

    https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY

    https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt

    Why can't I switch accounts in Win 10? It only shows

    Sign out

    Sleep

    Shutdown

    Restart


    I had to restart the 780 to login the Admin Account to delete the other
    account but then had to restart it again to login in my User Account. I
    noticed that the 2 Rob's were still there then all of a sudden there was
    only one with the TEMP account.

    I should be able to switch between accounts without restarting the 780.

    Robert


    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Dec 25 02:04:40 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/25/2023 2:06 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Success !  I went into disk management and
    took a pic for you then shutdown the 780.

    https://postimg.cc/JsZMWw46 # Successful LOCALGROUP command on account TEMP

    https://postimg.cc/k23PsjFx

    https://postimg.cc/94c55rk0 # In Safe Mode

    https://postimg.cc/c62p1DzV # First partition SR/Active,589MB,0x27 Second Parititon C: 1862.45GB, 2TB drive, MSDOS part

    Next we go into accounts and  delete the other
    account with the pin numbers correct?

    After that I need to bring over my A?V suite
    and we'll do the mediacreationtool as soon as
    I get the DVD's. bookmarks,. my Documents
    etc.

    Robert

    So that means, you can now do maintenance, if you log in as TEMP.

    You should be able to do

    net user TEMP # Review details of TEMP account, verify administrators is present

    If the TEMP account is looking good, you can turn the hack off
    from the Macrium LiveCD Command Prompt window. Using the diagram
    I posted with the instructions for the hack.

    If you want to make Rob an Administrator now, you can do it.
    In an Administrator Powershell, you can switch to cmd.exe like this, and do it.
    Switching to cmd.exe , is necessary some times when you cannot trust the Powershell environment with the execution of one of these commands.

    cmd.exe
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD

    You can then do

    net user Rob

    and verify Rob is now an administrator.

    And if Robs password is not working, you should be able to fix that too.
    As TEMP, you should be able to override Robs local password, but not PIN or cloud MSA password.

    net user Rob NewPasswordGoesHere # Pick a better password than that...

    *******

    +-----+------------------------------+------------------------------------+
    | MBR | System Reserved 589MB Active | C: <Boot> 1862.45GB 1806 free | MSDOS partitioned, suited to Optiplex 780
    +-----+------------------------------+------------------------------------+

    Your C: drive could use a label. In File Explorer, do Properties on it.
    The label allows you to assign a short text string like "OrigW10"
    or "Refurb10", so at a later date, you will remember which OS that is.

    There might be one backup sitting in the C: partition somewhere.

    You can shrink C: from the Disk Management pane. Right click C: and
    there should be a "Shrink Volume" option. You can, for example,
    easily accept the defaults,

    "Enter the amount of space to shrink" <=== the amount will only be half of 1862, or about 931 or so.
    the field might read 931*1024= 953344 Megabytes

    There is some metadata, which is half way out on the C: partition,
    and the Microsoft software refuses to move it. Many third party
    partition managers will agree to move it.

    There are a couple ways you can achieve a more precise shrink (to about 76GB).

    1) Paragon Partition Manager Free Edition (64-bit)

    https://download.cnet.com/paragon-partition-manager-free-edition-64-bit/3000-2248_4-10904411.html

    2) If you do a backup of that C: partition to an external disk, then do
    a restore on top of C:, one of the options is to "resize the partition".
    You can use the resize control during the restore procedure, to achieve a
    76GB partition, with all the original files in place.

    *******

    I don't want to overwhelm you with work.
    I'm just celebrating we might be in control.
    There's no big rush to do things, and they can be done one at a time.

    But at least now, if you need to do something as Administrator,
    you have a few more options.

    Paul



    I was reading through your post trying to absorb it all,...whew!
    when I got to your part about not trying to overwhelm me just
    celebrating were in control *L* I pretty pleased about it myself.

    I just want to have a Admin Account and a User Account. I would
    rather leave Rob as a User but is there a way to turn off having to
    login every time? I only do that on my Admin Accounts. That's
    why I thought Rob was an Admin account at first. If I make Rob
    a Admin Account then I need to make a User Account to take it's
    place.

    Can I also change the name of the Admin Account from TEMP to
    something else? I would also have to change Rob to something else
    because I use that for me User Accounts.

    Also, the two Rob's reappeared.

    I was thinking of adding my A/V suite, bookmarks, My Documents,
    installing Dell Imaging, Word, Excel.

    Why are we doing the partitioning again and will my other mrimgs
    work afterwards?

    Also, could you remind me again of what were using the
    MediaCtreationTool for?
    Is it to upgrade Win10 and/or create Win 10 hd's from Win 7 hd's?

    So much to take in,.... but at least we got it elevated and working
    thanks to all your good help.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    _




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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Dec 25 06:08:41 2023
    On 12/25/2023 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I removed the hack,..

    https://postimg.cc/Y4zs3KQT # Looks good. Hack removed

    then I went back and deleted the other account with the pin numbers. but
    I got a screen I couldn't get around and so I said no to most of it. I wish they wouldn't do things like that. Then got a pop-up for my ergonomic keyboard and didn't know what to do with that either so I closed it.

    https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3 # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account

    https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.

    https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"

    https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG # Has deleted foreign account

    https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY # Logging in as Rob

    https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt # The logging-in-twice problem ???

    Why can't I switch accounts in Win 10? It only shows # Fast user switching is gone

    Sign out

    Sleep

    Shutdown

    Restart


    I had to restart the 780 to login the Admin Account to delete the other account but then had to restart it again to login in my User Account. I noticed that the 2 Rob's were still there then all of a sudden there was
    only one with the TEMP account.

    I should be able to switch between accounts without restarting the 780.

    Robert

    Fast User Switching is gone from that menu. This did not work.

    HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System\
    HideFastUserSwitching DWORD 0

    But other menus have "Switch User".

    Use control-alt-delete then "Switch User". I got the info from here.

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/content/page/restart_windows_10_computer.html

    Note that, later in Task Manager, Lowboy cannot view the tasks of Bullwinkle (administrator).
    But Bullwinkle can see his own processes, as well as Lowboy. This proves that it is actual FastUserSwitching, and not a total logout for the other user. Bullwinkle collected this image as he is the Administrator.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/52SxnLBQ/Bullwinkle-and-Lowboy-in-Task-Manager.gif

    So yes, you can move between sessions.

    *******

    Let's do your images

    https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3 # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account. Set all to OFF.

    https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.

    https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"
    # I prefer the easy visual review of accounts this way. Test using the TEMP account.

    https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG # Has deleted foreign account

    https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY # Logging in as Rob

    https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt # The logging-in-twice problem ??? If so, could be related to netplwiz.

    When you get a chance, test this and take a picture, blotting out
    the details as you see fit.

    control /name microsoft.useraccounts

    click "Manage another account"
    take a picture (snippingtool.exe)
    Right-click the surface of the picture, Save As, save as a PNG, edit with your tools, postimage it.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Dec 25 02:18:33 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/25/2023 2:06 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Success !  I went into disk management and
    took a pic for you then shutdown the 780.

    https://postimg.cc/JsZMWw46 # Successful LOCALGROUP command on account TEMP

    https://postimg.cc/k23PsjFx

    https://postimg.cc/94c55rk0 # In Safe Mode

    https://postimg.cc/c62p1DzV # First partition SR/Active,589MB,0x27 Second Parititon C: 1862.45GB, 2TB drive, MSDOS part

    Next we go into accounts and  delete the other
    account with the pin numbers correct?

    After that I need to bring over my A?V suite
    and we'll do the mediacreationtool as soon as
    I get the DVD's. bookmarks,. my Documents
    etc.

    Robert

    So that means, you can now do maintenance, if you log in as TEMP.

    You should be able to do

    net user TEMP # Review details of TEMP account, verify administrators is present

    If the TEMP account is looking good, you can turn the hack off
    from the Macrium LiveCD Command Prompt window. Using the diagram
    I posted with the instructions for the hack.

    If you want to make Rob an Administrator now, you can do it.
    In an Administrator Powershell, you can switch to cmd.exe like this, and do it.
    Switching to cmd.exe , is necessary some times when you cannot trust the Powershell environment with the execution of one of these commands.

    cmd.exe
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Rob /ADD

    You can then do

    net user Rob

    and verify Rob is now an administrator.

    And if Robs password is not working, you should be able to fix that too.
    As TEMP, you should be able to override Robs local password, but not PIN or cloud MSA password.

    net user Rob NewPasswordGoesHere # Pick a better password than that...

    *******

    +-----+------------------------------+------------------------------------+
    | MBR | System Reserved 589MB Active | C: <Boot> 1862.45GB 1806 free | MSDOS partitioned, suited to Optiplex 780
    +-----+------------------------------+------------------------------------+

    Your C: drive could use a label. In File Explorer, do Properties on it.
    The label allows you to assign a short text string like "OrigW10"
    or "Refurb10", so at a later date, you will remember which OS that is.

    There might be one backup sitting in the C: partition somewhere.

    You can shrink C: from the Disk Management pane. Right click C: and
    there should be a "Shrink Volume" option. You can, for example,
    easily accept the defaults,

    "Enter the amount of space to shrink" <=== the amount will only be half of 1862, or about 931 or so.
    the field might read 931*1024= 953344 Megabytes

    There is some metadata, which is half way out on the C: partition,
    and the Microsoft software refuses to move it. Many third party
    partition managers will agree to move it.

    There are a couple ways you can achieve a more precise shrink (to about 76GB).

    1) Paragon Partition Manager Free Edition (64-bit)

    https://download.cnet.com/paragon-partition-manager-free-edition-64-bit/3000-2248_4-10904411.html

    2) If you do a backup of that C: partition to an external disk, then do
    a restore on top of C:, one of the options is to "resize the partition".
    You can use the resize control during the restore procedure, to achieve a
    76GB partition, with all the original files in place.

    *******

    I don't want to overwhelm you with work.
    I'm just celebrating we might be in control.
    There's no big rush to do things, and they can be done one at a time.

    But at least now, if you need to do something as Administrator,
    you have a few more options.

    Paul



    I did a few more things

    https://postimg.cc/grtbnkfx

    https://postimg.cc/7CnpDx3Y

    https://postimg.cc/Z0MXJsd3


    Robert




    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Dec 25 08:31:26 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/25/2023 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I removed the hack,..

    https://postimg.cc/Y4zs3KQT # Looks good. Hack removed

    then I went back and deleted the other account with the pin numbers. but
    I got a screen I couldn't get around and so I said no to most of it. I wish >> they wouldn't do things like that. Then got a pop-up for my ergonomic
    keyboard and didn't know what to do with that either so I closed it.

    https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3 # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account

    https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.

    https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"

    https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG # Has deleted foreign account

    https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY # Logging in as Rob

    https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt # The logging-in-twice problem ???

    Why can't I switch accounts in Win 10? It only shows # Fast user switching is gone

    Sign out

    Sleep

    Shutdown

    Restart


    I had to restart the 780 to login the Admin Account to delete the other
    account but then had to restart it again to login in my User Account. I
    noticed that the 2 Rob's were still there then all of a sudden there was
    only one with the TEMP account.

    I should be able to switch between accounts without restarting the 780.

    Robert

    Fast User Switching is gone from that menu. This did not work.

    HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System\
    HideFastUserSwitching DWORD 0

    But other menus have "Switch User".

    Use control-alt-delete then "Switch User". I got the info from here.

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/content/page/restart_windows_10_computer.html

    Note that, later in Task Manager, Lowboy cannot view the tasks of Bullwinkle (administrator).
    But Bullwinkle can see his own processes, as well as Lowboy. This proves that it is actual FastUserSwitching, and not a total logout for the other user. Bullwinkle collected this image as he is the Administrator.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/52SxnLBQ/Bullwinkle-and-Lowboy-in-Task-Manager.gif

    So yes, you can move between sessions.

    *******

    Let's do your images

    https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3 # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account. Set all to OFF.

    https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.

    https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"
    # I prefer the easy visual review of accounts this way. Test using the TEMP account.

    https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG # Has deleted foreign account

    https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY # Logging in as Rob

    https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt # The logging-in-twice problem ??? If so, could be related to netplwiz.

    When you get a chance, test this and take a picture, blotting out
    the details as you see fit.

    control /name microsoft.useraccounts

    click "Manage another account"
    take a picture (snippingtool.exe)
    Right-click the surface of the picture, Save As, save as a PNG, edit with your tools, postimage it.

    Paul




    Oh OK, so I do ctrl--alt-delete to switch users on the 780.

    I tried it, I could switch from Rob to the TEMP Admin
    Account and back but I had to sign in again to Rob.

    Isn't there some way of getting rid of me having to sign in to
    Rob everytime? It's only a User Account.

    I followed your instructions :

    https://postimg.cc/K1Y0Z4Vz

    https://postimg.cc/4YMqqzdZ

    https://postimg.cc/mhwqBxDm

    https://postimg.cc/VSqggM0K

    https://postimg.cc/MvgY8tys

    https://postimg.cc/z3cCnpPJ

    I tried it first on the Rob Account and then on the Temp
    Admin Account.


    Robert




    _





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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Dec 25 23:47:58 2023
    On 12/25/2023 5:04 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I was reading through your post trying to absorb it all,...whew!
    when I got to your part about not trying to overwhelm me just
    celebrating were in control *L* I pretty pleased about it myself.

    I just want to have a Admin Account and a User Account. I would
    rather leave Rob as a User but is there a way to turn off having to
    login  every time? I only do that on my Admin Accounts. That's
    why I thought Rob was an Admin account at first. If I make Rob
    a Admin Account then I need to make a User Account to take it's
    place.

    Can I also change the name of the Admin Account from TEMP to
    something else? I would also have to change Rob to something else
    because I use that for me User Accounts.

    Also, the two Rob's reappeared.

    I was thinking of adding my A/V suite, bookmarks, My Documents,
    installing Dell Imaging, Word, Excel.

    Why are we doing the partitioning again and will my other mrimgs
    work afterwards?

    Also, could you remind me again of what were using the MediaCtreationTool for?
    Is it to upgrade Win10 and/or create Win 10 hd's from Win 7 hd's?

    So much to take in,.... but at least we got it elevated and working
    thanks to all your good help.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What counts, is whether you are happy with where you are on the
    computer or not. There's no need to do extra work, if the function
    is OK.

    Since Win10 is no longer being Upgraded, only Updated, I think using MediaCreationTool and getting a Windows.ISO is a good safety precaution.
    If I only had a dollar, for each user who could not find the ISO to
    install a Windows OS when they needed one... These files do not last forever. When it makes Windows.iso, don't forget to rename it in a descriptive
    way, such as Win10-22H2-x64.iso , so you will know what it is later.

    https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

    *******

    Renaming accounts is not recommended. When you made TEMP, some entries
    were made in Regedit for you. To chase after this crap, and change everything over, I don't think even Microsoft wants to do that. For low-value accounts, you remove them when they are no longer serving a purpose.

    Now that you are administrator, you can make additional accounts.
    You can open an Administrator terminal, using one of your Administrator accounts, and make a new account. It does not have to be TEMP. Now that
    you know the two commands used for making a user account, you can
    skip a lot of steps. One command makes the account. The second command, optionally, makes the account belong to the Administrator group.

    Once the new account exists, you can remove the TEMP account using the GUI.

    control /name microsoft.useraccounts

    # Then "Manage another account"

    But be careful to always leave at least *one* administrator account with working password.
    You'll never remember how that hack works, two years from now. And neither will I :-)

    Microsoft does not intend for "netplwiz" to keep working (it is more or less deprecated).
    I cannot guarantee under what conditions it will work, or not work.
    When there are multiple accounts, that makes it harder for
    netplwiz to be applicable, since there is the account selection
    step at the beginning. I have OSes here, where netplwiz no longer works,
    even with only the one account.

    Some operation involving "netplwiz", may make the additional Rob entry disappear.
    You might try putting the password requirement back, using that, and see
    if the second entry disappears or not.

    As of today, I would not be in a rush to remove TEMP. Leave it there,
    write down the password you used, and once Rob is "perfectly functional"
    and you have both an elevated and an un-elevated account you like,
    that might be the time to flush TEMP into the ocean. I just don't want you having to use the hack again. And I do want you to have that Win10 DVD or
    USB stick available, if there is trouble that required paving and reinstalling.

    I would copy over your materials, as needed, once the account situation
    has settled, and you are happy that it is 100% functional and meets
    all your requirements. It's not good to do a lot of install work,
    and then realize an account needs to be trashed and re-created.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Dec 25 23:43:17 2023
    On 12/25/2023 5:18 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I did a few more things

    https://postimg.cc/grtbnkfx

    https://postimg.cc/7CnpDx3Y

    https://postimg.cc/Z0MXJsd3


    Robert

    Now see, at the moment, all I see is "Rob" (unelevated) and "TEMP" (elevated).

    You don't have an elevated account to replace TEMP yet.

    While logged in as TEMP, and using a Powershell administrators window,
    you can add NewAccount:NewPassword (where you substitute the values for those, that YOU want to use).

    net user NewAccount NewPassword /ADD # Add the account.

    net LOCALGROUP Administrators NewAccount /ADD # Make the account an administrator (we're replacing TEMP).

    net user NewAccount # Verify the command worked!!!

    Don't lose control of the machine.
    Need one working Administrator account at all times.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Dec 26 00:43:49 2023
    On 12/25/2023 11:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/25/2023 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I removed the hack,..

    https://postimg.cc/Y4zs3KQT        # Looks good. Hack removed

    then I went back and deleted the other account with the pin numbers. but >>> I got a screen I couldn't get around and so I said no to most of it. I wish >>> they wouldn't do things like that. Then got a pop-up for my ergonomic
    keyboard and didn't know what to do with that either so I closed it.

    https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3    # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account

    https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK    # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.

    https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm    # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"

    https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG    # Has deleted foreign account

    https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY    # Logging in as Rob

    https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt    # The logging-in-twice problem ???

    Why can't I switch accounts in Win 10? It only shows        # Fast user switching is gone

    Sign out

    Sleep

    Shutdown

    Restart


    I had to restart the 780 to login the Admin Account to delete the other
    account but then had to restart it again to login in my User Account. I
    noticed that the 2 Rob's were still there then all of a sudden there was >>> only one with the TEMP account.

    I should be able to switch between accounts without restarting the 780.

    Robert

    Fast User Switching is gone from that menu. This did not work.

         HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System\
             HideFastUserSwitching    DWORD    0

    But other menus have "Switch User".

    Use control-alt-delete then "Switch User".  I got the info from here.

         https://www.majorgeeks.com/content/page/restart_windows_10_computer.html

    Note that, later in Task Manager, Lowboy cannot view the tasks of Bullwinkle (administrator).
    But Bullwinkle can see his own processes, as well as Lowboy. This proves that
    it is actual FastUserSwitching, and not a total logout for the other user. >> Bullwinkle collected this image as he is the Administrator.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/52SxnLBQ/Bullwinkle-and-Lowboy-in-Task-Manager.gif

    So yes, you can move between sessions.

    *******

    Let's do your images

    https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3    # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account. Set all to OFF.

    https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK    # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.

    https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm    # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"
                                    # I prefer the easy visual review of accounts this way. Test using the TEMP account.

    https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG    # Has deleted foreign account

    https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY    # Logging in as Rob

    https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt    # The logging-in-twice problem ???  If so, could be related to netplwiz.

    When you get a chance, test this and take a picture, blotting out
    the details as you see fit.

        control /name microsoft.useraccounts

        click "Manage another account"
        take a picture (snippingtool.exe)
        Right-click the surface of the picture, Save As, save as a PNG, edit with your tools, postimage it.

       Paul




    Oh OK, so I do ctrl--alt-delete to switch users on the 780.

    I tried it, I could switch from Rob to the TEMP Admin
    Account and back but I had to sign in again to Rob.

    Isn't there some way of getting rid of me having to sign in to
    Rob everytime? It's only a User Account.

    I followed your instructions :

    https://postimg.cc/K1Y0Z4Vz # Rob is local account

    https://postimg.cc/4YMqqzdZ # (Needing to elevate to TEMP, to Manage Other Accounts)

    https://postimg.cc/mhwqBxDm

    https://postimg.cc/VSqggM0K # Logged in as TEMP the Administrator

    https://postimg.cc/MvgY8tys # Only two accounts exist. TEMP the Administrator, Rob the User

    https://postimg.cc/z3cCnpPJ

    I tried it first on the Rob Account and then on the Temp
    Admin Account.


    Robert

    You only have two accounts now. If you need to change an account name,
    like change TEMP to LtCommander, then you would make a new account for that.

    DO NOT delete TEMP, until the LTCommander account is made, if that's your plan.

    Using "netplwiz", set up Rob again to use a password at Login, and
    see, after a reboot, whether Rob behaves normally or not.

    It seems, the thing you are experiencing, is caused by "netplwiz"
    being done with the wrong password. Did you reset the password on Rob ?
    The netplwiz password override now no longer matches the new Rob password.

    https://techcommunity.microsoft.com/t5/windows-10/windows-10-showing-two-accounts-at-login/m-p/1658066

    If so, you need to use netplwiz again, remove the lack of need to enter
    a password, and verify the extra account disappeared (by rebooting).
    Then enter netplwiz again, and enter the correct password for Rob.
    And maybe this time, you will get Rob to start without entering a password,.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Dec 26 00:06:18 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/25/2023 11:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/25/2023 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I removed the hack,..

    https://postimg.cc/Y4zs3KQT        # Looks good. Hack removed

    then I went back and deleted the other account with the pin numbers. but >>>> I got a screen I couldn't get around and so I said no to most of it. I wish
    they wouldn't do things like that. Then got a pop-up for my ergonomic
    keyboard and didn't know what to do with that either so I closed it.

    https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3    # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account

    https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK    # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.

    https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm    # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"

    https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG    # Has deleted foreign account

    https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY    # Logging in as Rob

    https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt    # The logging-in-twice problem ???

    Why can't I switch accounts in Win 10? It only shows        # Fast user switching is gone

    Sign out

    Sleep

    Shutdown

    Restart


    I had to restart the 780 to login the Admin Account to delete the other >>>> account but then had to restart it again to login in my User Account. I >>>> noticed that the 2 Rob's were still there then all of a sudden there was >>>> only one with the TEMP account.

    I should be able to switch between accounts without restarting the 780. >>>>
    Robert

    Fast User Switching is gone from that menu. This did not work.

         HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System\
             HideFastUserSwitching    DWORD    0

    But other menus have "Switch User".

    Use control-alt-delete then "Switch User".  I got the info from here.

         https://www.majorgeeks.com/content/page/restart_windows_10_computer.html

    Note that, later in Task Manager, Lowboy cannot view the tasks of Bullwinkle (administrator).
    But Bullwinkle can see his own processes, as well as Lowboy. This proves that
    it is actual FastUserSwitching, and not a total logout for the other user. >>> Bullwinkle collected this image as he is the Administrator.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/52SxnLBQ/Bullwinkle-and-Lowboy-in-Task-Manager.gif

    So yes, you can move between sessions.

    *******

    Let's do your images

    https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3    # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account. Set all to OFF.

    https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK    # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.

    https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm    # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"
                                    # I prefer the easy visual review of accounts this way. Test using the TEMP account.

    https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG    # Has deleted foreign account

    https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY    # Logging in as Rob

    https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt    # The logging-in-twice problem ???  If so, could be related to netplwiz.

    When you get a chance, test this and take a picture, blotting out
    the details as you see fit.

        control /name microsoft.useraccounts

        click "Manage another account"
        take a picture (snippingtool.exe)
        Right-click the surface of the picture, Save As, save as a PNG, edit with your tools, postimage it.

       Paul




    Oh OK, so I do ctrl--alt-delete to switch users on the 780.

    I tried it, I could switch from Rob to the TEMP Admin
    Account and back but I had to sign in again to Rob.

    Isn't there some way of getting rid of me having to sign in to
    Rob everytime? It's only a User Account.

    I followed your instructions :

    https://postimg.cc/K1Y0Z4Vz # Rob is local account

    https://postimg.cc/4YMqqzdZ # (Needing to elevate to TEMP, to Manage Other Accounts)

    https://postimg.cc/mhwqBxDm

    https://postimg.cc/VSqggM0K # Logged in as TEMP the Administrator

    https://postimg.cc/MvgY8tys # Only two accounts exist. TEMP the Administrator, Rob the User

    https://postimg.cc/z3cCnpPJ

    I tried it first on the Rob Account and then on the Temp
    Admin Account.


    Robert

    You only have two accounts now. If you need to change an account name,
    like change TEMP to LtCommander, then you would make a new account for that.

    DO NOT delete TEMP, until the LTCommander account is made, if that's your plan.

    Using "netplwiz", set up Rob again to use a password at Login, and
    see, after a reboot, whether Rob behaves normally or not.

    It seems, the thing you are experiencing, is caused by "netplwiz"
    being done with the wrong password. Did you reset the password on Rob ?
    The netplwiz password override now no longer matches the new Rob password.

    https://techcommunity.microsoft.com/t5/windows-10/windows-10-showing-two-accounts-at-login/m-p/1658066

    If so, you need to use netplwiz again, remove the lack of need to enter
    a password, and verify the extra account disappeared (by rebooting).
    Then enter netplwiz again, and enter the correct password for Rob.
    And maybe this time, you will get Rob to start without entering a password,.

    Paul







    I tried to add a Admin Account but it didn't have

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>

    It had

    C:\\Users\TEMP>

    So the command failed.

    https://postimg.cc/B8RHkb3y

    I added Dell Image Expert 2000 to the Win 10 and had to
    also install Quicktime with it. I also installed Word and Excel.



    Robert







    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Dec 26 00:20:46 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/25/2023 11:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/25/2023 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I removed the hack,..

    https://postimg.cc/Y4zs3KQT        # Looks good. Hack removed

    then I went back and deleted the other account with the pin numbers. but >>>> I got a screen I couldn't get around and so I said no to most of it. I wish
    they wouldn't do things like that. Then got a pop-up for my ergonomic
    keyboard and didn't know what to do with that either so I closed it.

    https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3    # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account

    https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK    # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.

    https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm    # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"

    https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG    # Has deleted foreign account

    https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY    # Logging in as Rob

    https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt    # The logging-in-twice problem ???

    Why can't I switch accounts in Win 10? It only shows        # Fast user switching is gone

    Sign out

    Sleep

    Shutdown

    Restart


    I had to restart the 780 to login the Admin Account to delete the other >>>> account but then had to restart it again to login in my User Account. I >>>> noticed that the 2 Rob's were still there then all of a sudden there was >>>> only one with the TEMP account.

    I should be able to switch between accounts without restarting the 780. >>>>
    Robert

    Fast User Switching is gone from that menu. This did not work.

         HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System\
             HideFastUserSwitching    DWORD    0

    But other menus have "Switch User".

    Use control-alt-delete then "Switch User".  I got the info from here.

         https://www.majorgeeks.com/content/page/restart_windows_10_computer.html

    Note that, later in Task Manager, Lowboy cannot view the tasks of Bullwinkle (administrator).
    But Bullwinkle can see his own processes, as well as Lowboy. This proves that
    it is actual FastUserSwitching, and not a total logout for the other user. >>> Bullwinkle collected this image as he is the Administrator.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/52SxnLBQ/Bullwinkle-and-Lowboy-in-Task-Manager.gif

    So yes, you can move between sessions.

    *******

    Let's do your images

    https://postimg.cc/G95Szjs3    # "Privacy Settings" appears on first usage of a new (TEMP) account. Set all to OFF.

    https://postimg.cc/Vdw0xxtK    # It installed kbd driver. Then realized it could install a control panel. "No" is fine.

    https://postimg.cc/p5Hytjmm    # control /name microsoft.useraccounts , then "Manage another account"
                                    # I prefer the easy visual review of accounts this way. Test using the TEMP account.

    https://postimg.cc/G9FHxXfG    # Has deleted foreign account

    https://postimg.cc/34gJ9wtY    # Logging in as Rob

    https://postimg.cc/SX9MFkgt    # The logging-in-twice problem ???  If so, could be related to netplwiz.

    When you get a chance, test this and take a picture, blotting out
    the details as you see fit.

        control /name microsoft.useraccounts

        click "Manage another account"
        take a picture (snippingtool.exe)
        Right-click the surface of the picture, Save As, save as a PNG, edit with your tools, postimage it.

       Paul




    Oh OK, so I do ctrl--alt-delete to switch users on the 780.

    I tried it, I could switch from Rob to the TEMP Admin
    Account and back but I had to sign in again to Rob.

    Isn't there some way of getting rid of me having to sign in to
    Rob everytime? It's only a User Account.

    I followed your instructions :

    https://postimg.cc/K1Y0Z4Vz # Rob is local account

    https://postimg.cc/4YMqqzdZ # (Needing to elevate to TEMP, to Manage Other Accounts)

    https://postimg.cc/mhwqBxDm

    https://postimg.cc/VSqggM0K # Logged in as TEMP the Administrator

    https://postimg.cc/MvgY8tys # Only two accounts exist. TEMP the Administrator, Rob the User

    https://postimg.cc/z3cCnpPJ

    I tried it first on the Rob Account and then on the Temp
    Admin Account.


    Robert

    You only have two accounts now. If you need to change an account name,
    like change TEMP to LtCommander, then you would make a new account for that.

    DO NOT delete TEMP, until the LTCommander account is made, if that's your plan.

    Using "netplwiz", set up Rob again to use a password at Login, and
    see, after a reboot, whether Rob behaves normally or not.

    It seems, the thing you are experiencing, is caused by "netplwiz"
    being done with the wrong password. Did you reset the password on Rob ?
    The netplwiz password override now no longer matches the new Rob password.

    https://techcommunity.microsoft.com/t5/windows-10/windows-10-showing-two-accounts-at-login/m-p/1658066

    If so, you need to use netplwiz again, remove the lack of need to enter
    a password, and verify the extra account disappeared (by rebooting).
    Then enter netplwiz again, and enter the correct password for Rob.
    And maybe this time, you will get Rob to start without entering a password,.

    Paul





    I'm not quite following you with the link you gave. IS this the mediacreationtool you want me to download? We have to wait for
    the DVD-RDL's for that. Or is this something else you want me to download?

    Can I use DVD-RW, or DVD's? I only have (1) Patriot with some
    string you wanted me to use for SeaMonkey but I can delete it
    since we have Sea Monkey working.

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Dec 26 05:48:51 2023
    On 12/26/2023 3:06 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I tried to add a Admin Account but it didn't have

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32>

    It had

    C:\\Users\TEMP>

    So the command failed.

    https://postimg.cc/B8RHkb3y

    I added Dell Image Expert 2000 to the Win 10 and had to
    also install Quicktime with it. I also installed Word and Excel.

    Robert

    OK, to start with, that's not an Administrator terminal.

    If you go Start : Run : cmd.exe

    you have to press Shift-Control-Enter to have it elevate to administrator.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/fbNw2P9K/elevate-the-start-run-box.gif

    (Windows 7 made this easier, by having a modifier near the box to use.)

    The command did not fail because of the working directory.

    The attempt to modify an account, needed elevation to work.
    An Administrator, fiddles with accounts.

    Any time an error number ends in five (5), that is a sign
    that it was a permission problem and needs elevation to work.

    You can Google for details, but something ending in five,
    a good guess is it needs some elevation to gain access to
    the command or operation.

    Now, pick a brand new password for the account, and try again :-)

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Dec 26 05:25:12 2023
    On 12/26/2023 3:20 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I'm not quite following you with the link you gave. IS this the mediacreationtool you want me to download? We have to wait for
    the DVD-RDL's for that. Or is this something else you want me to download?

    Can I use DVD-RW, or DVD's? I only have (1) Patriot with some
    string you wanted me to use for SeaMonkey but I can delete it
    since we have Sea Monkey working.

    Robert

    I'm not proposing you use the Windows.iso that the mediacreationtool.exe makes.

    The idea is, you download it, and put it some place you can find it for later.

    If you ever need to REINSTALL Windows 10, this is when you access the ISO file.

    You can burn a DVD with it (some day in the future is fine).

    You can also transfer the ISO to the Patriot and make it bootable, with rufus.ie tool.
    That's a website in Ireland.

    Lots of people ask me where they can find old Windows ISO files, and a lot
    of those have dried up. For example, there are very few sources of Windows 7 left.
    The days of easily getting a Windows 7 are pretty well over. I'm talking about reputable sites that are trustworthy. You can download it from practically anywhere... if you have a SHA256 checksum for it. That's so you could verify
    it is legitimate.

    You only need to burn a DVD with that content, when you need it for some reason.
    There is no reason now, to burn it in advance. But some day you might need it, and keeping a copy now for yourself, is better than scrambling for a copy later.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Dec 26 04:07:37 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/26/2023 3:20 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I'm not quite following you with the link you gave. IS this the
    mediacreationtool you want me to download? We have to wait for
    the DVD-RDL's for that. Or is this something else you want me to download? >>
    Can I use DVD-RW, or DVD's? I only have (1) Patriot with some
    string you wanted me to use for SeaMonkey but I can delete it
    since we have Sea Monkey working.

    Robert

    I'm not proposing you use the Windows.iso that the mediacreationtool.exe makes.

    The idea is, you download it, and put it some place you can find it for later.

    If you ever need to REINSTALL Windows 10, this is when you access the ISO file.

    You can burn a DVD with it (some day in the future is fine).

    You can also transfer the ISO to the Patriot and make it bootable, with rufus.ie tool.
    That's a website in Ireland.

    Lots of people ask me where they can find old Windows ISO files, and a lot
    of those have dried up. For example, there are very few sources of Windows 7 left.
    The days of easily getting a Windows 7 are pretty well over. I'm talking about
    reputable sites that are trustworthy. You can download it from practically anywhere... if you have a SHA256 checksum for it. That's so you could verify it is legitimate.

    You only need to burn a DVD with that content, when you need it for some reason.
    There is no reason now, to burn it in advance. But some day you might need it,
    and keeping a copy now for yourself, is better than scrambling for a copy later.

    Paul


    I’m on the 780 Seamonkey,.. I had to set it up

    I tried to download the medicacreationtool but it doesn’t
    give an option to saving it elsewhere. I tried to copy paste
    to a DVD but it didn’t work. Also don’t I need to order the
    DVD+RDL’s for this because its so big?

    https://postimg.cc/BjM6Ngfn

    I tried again and entered Start: Run: cmd.exe

    Then I tried shift-control-enter but it did not change.

    It kept the C:\\Users\TEMP>

    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Dec 26 08:04:54 2023
    On 12/26/2023 7:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/26/2023 3:20 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I'm not quite following you with the link you gave. IS this the
    mediacreationtool you want me to download? We have to wait for
    the DVD-RDL's for that. Or is this something else you want me to download? >>>
    Can I use DVD-RW, or DVD's? I only have (1) Patriot with some
    string you wanted me to use for SeaMonkey but I can delete it
    since we have Sea Monkey working.

    Robert

    I'm not proposing you use the Windows.iso that the mediacreationtool.exe makes.

    The idea is, you download it, and put it some place you can find it for later.

    If you ever need to REINSTALL Windows 10, this is when you access the ISO file.

    You can burn a DVD with it (some day in the future is fine).

    You can also transfer the ISO to the Patriot and make it bootable, with rufus.ie tool.
    That's a website in Ireland.

    Lots of people ask me where they can find old Windows ISO files, and a lot >> of those have dried up. For example, there are very few sources of Windows 7 left.
    The days of easily getting a Windows 7 are pretty well over. I'm talking about
    reputable sites that are trustworthy. You can download it from practically >> anywhere... if you have a SHA256 checksum for it. That's so you could verify >> it is legitimate.

    You only need to burn a DVD with that content, when you need it for some reason.
    There is no reason now, to burn it in advance. But some day you might need it,
    and keeping a copy now for yourself, is better than scrambling for a copy later.

        Paul


    I’m on the 780 Seamonkey,.. I had to set it up

    I tried to download the medicacreationtool but it doesn’t
    give an option to saving it elsewhere. I tried to copy paste
    to a DVD  but it didn’t work. Also don’t I need to order the
    DVD+RDL’s for this because its so big?

    https://postimg.cc/BjM6Ngfn

    I tried again and entered Start: Run: cmd.exe

    Then I tried shift-control-enter but it did not change.

    It kept the C:\\Users\TEMP>

    Robert

    The mediacreationtool22H2.exe is likely in your Downloads folder.

    It is an executable. When you run it, you tell it you are
    "preparing media for another user". That causes it to deposit
    a Windows.iso , rather than burning something or making USB sticks
    or whatever.

    Find the executable.

    Run it.

    Tell it you're making media for another user.

    It should make a x64 Windows.iso, as that's the one you are
    most likely to use.

    After an hour or so, maybe it will be downloaded. Then it should finish up.

    Do not get confused when it finishes up. As long as the Windows.iso is
    in the Downloads folder, do not get tricked into doing anything else,
    such as getting tricked to use the DVD burner. None of that is needed
    right now. Besides, you have to check the size and notice it is
    slightly bigger than 4,700,000,000 but not by much. The MediaCreationTool version is smaller than the Linux version. But still not small enough :-/

    *******

    I don't understand why you Run box is not behaving like mine.
    Here is mine. Review and see if you can spot something which
    matters, which is different than yours. I'm using the TEMP acct now.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/Znf71xhf/elevated-cmd-using-TEMP-acct.gif

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Dec 26 07:56:43 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/26/2023 7:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/26/2023 3:20 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I'm not quite following you with the link you gave. IS this the
    mediacreationtool you want me to download? We have to wait for
    the DVD-RDL's for that. Or is this something else you want me to download? >>>>
    Can I use DVD-RW, or DVD's? I only have (1) Patriot with some
    string you wanted me to use for SeaMonkey but I can delete it
    since we have Sea Monkey working.

    Robert

    I'm not proposing you use the Windows.iso that the mediacreationtool.exe makes.

    The idea is, you download it, and put it some place you can find it for later.

    If you ever need to REINSTALL Windows 10, this is when you access the ISO file.

    You can burn a DVD with it (some day in the future is fine).

    You can also transfer the ISO to the Patriot and make it bootable, with rufus.ie tool.
    That's a website in Ireland.

    Lots of people ask me where they can find old Windows ISO files, and a lot >>> of those have dried up. For example, there are very few sources of Windows 7 left.
    The days of easily getting a Windows 7 are pretty well over. I'm talking about
    reputable sites that are trustworthy. You can download it from practically >>> anywhere... if you have a SHA256 checksum for it. That's so you could verify
    it is legitimate.

    You only need to burn a DVD with that content, when you need it for some reason.
    There is no reason now, to burn it in advance. But some day you might need it,
    and keeping a copy now for yourself, is better than scrambling for a copy later.

        Paul


    I’m on the 780 Seamonkey,.. I had to set it up

    I tried to download the medicacreationtool but it doesn’t
    give an option to saving it elsewhere. I tried to copy paste
    to a DVD  but it didn’t work. Also don’t I need to order the
    DVD+RDL’s for this because its so big?

    https://postimg.cc/BjM6Ngfn

    I tried again and entered Start: Run: cmd.exe

    Then I tried shift-control-enter but it did not change.

    It kept the C:\\Users\TEMP>

    Robert

    The mediacreationtool22H2.exe is likely in your Downloads folder.

    It is an executable. When you run it, you tell it you are
    "preparing media for another user". That causes it to deposit
    a Windows.iso , rather than burning something or making USB sticks
    or whatever.

    Find the executable.

    Run it.

    Tell it you're making media for another user.

    It should make a x64 Windows.iso, as that's the one you are
    most likely to use.

    After an hour or so, maybe it will be downloaded. Then it should finish up.

    Do not get confused when it finishes up. As long as the Windows.iso is
    in the Downloads folder, do not get tricked into doing anything else,
    such as getting tricked to use the DVD burner. None of that is needed
    right now. Besides, you have to check the size and notice it is
    slightly bigger than 4,700,000,000 but not by much. The MediaCreationTool version is smaller than the Linux version. But still not small enough :-/

    *******

    I don't understand why you Run box is not behaving like mine.
    Here is mine. Review and see if you can spot something which
    matters, which is different than yours. I'm using the TEMP acct now.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/Znf71xhf/elevated-cmd-using-TEMP-acct.gif

    Paul





    I like the present Win 10 however I do agree with you that I shouldn't
    load anything until I get a new Admin Account working and remove the
    password connected User Account or at least replace it a new Account
    that doesn't require a password.

    I did install Dell Imaging, Word and Excel so that I could work from Win
    10 as well but I won't add anymore. I'll leave the other User's version
    of macium for the present but once were satisfied everything is working
    and we do everything you want then I want to delete it and download my
    copy of macrium as well as the rest of my A/V suite, then bookmarks and
    My Documents.

    I found the file in the downloads folder but I'm a little confused, I
    thought you wanted me to order DVD+RDL's to put the MediaCcreationTool
    on them because it's too big for a Patriot. So if I start to run it
    won't the .iso be too big for the Patriot? Also I'm leery of using a
    used Patriot for this. My experience has shown me I need a new Patriot
    for it to work properly even though it's suppose to work after I delete
    a file.

    I tried to run it but it asked for the Admin Account and password and I
    didn't know if I should proceed or if the options came after to run it
    as an .so for another or what. I did manage to move the file to my
    Patriot.

    https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR

    https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ

    https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH

    I tried the cmd.exe and your screen is different than mine. I again
    tried the shift-control-enter several times but nothing happened. I'm
    wondering could it be the keyboard? If I switch keyboards and used a
    Microsoft 4000 do you think it would work then? I mean it should work
    now but it's not and that's the only thing I can think of.

    https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX


    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Dec 27 03:45:25 2023
    On 12/26/2023 10:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I like the present Win 10 however I do agree with you that I shouldn't load anything until I get a new Admin Account working and remove the password connected User Account or at least replace it a new Account that doesn't require a password.

    I did install Dell Imaging, Word and Excel so that I could work from Win 10 as well but I won't add anymore. I'll leave the other User's version of macium for the present but once were satisfied everything is working and we do everything you want then
    I want to delete it and download my copy of macrium as well as the rest of my A/V suite, then bookmarks and My Documents.

    I found the file in the downloads folder but I'm a little confused, I thought you wanted me to order DVD+RDL's to put the MediaCcreationTool on them because it's too big for a Patriot. So if I start to run it won't the .iso be too big for the Patriot?
    Also I'm leery of using a used Patriot for this. My experience has shown me I need a new Patriot for it to work properly even though it's suppose to work after I delete a file.

    I tried to run it but it asked for the Admin Account and password and I didn't know if I should proceed or if the options came after to run it as an .so for another or what. I did manage to move the file to my Patriot.

    https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR

    https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ

    https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH

    I tried the cmd.exe and your screen is different than mine. I again tried the shift-control-enter several times but nothing happened. I'm wondering could it be the keyboard? If I switch keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 do you think it would work
    then? I mean it should work now but it's not and that's the only thing I can think of.

    https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX

    Robert

    MediaCcreationTool22H2.exe is a "download assistant". You
    don't put it on a DVD.

    MediaCcreationTool ==> Windows.iso ==> DVD perhaps

    The Windows.iso is at least 4,700,000,000 in size and that is the
    item that will not fit a DVD properly.

    The MediaCreationTool is

    Name: MediaCreationTool22H2-W10.exe
    Size: 19,463,448 bytes (18 MiB)

    fairly small by comparison.

    If logged in with the TEMP account, that should work OK to
    run MediaCreationTool22H2.exe, then copy the Windows.iso to
    some place safer, as Win10-22H2.iso .

    It can be burned to a DVD, some day, like when you get some DVDs
    which are big enough.

    This prompt makes sense, only as far as using the TEMP account for
    its elevation. Perhaps you were signed in as Rob while trying this.

    https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR

    *******

    In the picture here, your file extensions view is not turned on.
    That's why you can't see EXE on the end of the filename.

    https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ

    You can run the MediaCreationTool on either machine, as long
    as you have an Administrator account for the (unnecessary)
    elevation it is using. You are only doing the download function
    with the program, and for that, no elevation is really required
    in order to download something. That's a fault of program design.

    https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH

    *******

    In this picture, you are attempting to start Command Prompt from
    the search box.

    https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX

    I was referring to starting it this way.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/pLTWLDqH/Elevate-Run-Box-Command-Ctrl-Shift-Enter.gif

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Dec 27 07:48:51 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/26/2023 10:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I like the present Win 10 however I do agree with you that I shouldn't load anything until I get a new Admin Account working and remove the password connected User Account or at least replace it a new Account that doesn't require a password.

    I did install Dell Imaging, Word and Excel so that I could work from Win 10 as well but I won't add anymore. I'll leave the other User's version of macium for the present but once were satisfied everything is working and we do everything you want then
    I want to delete it and download my copy of macrium as well as the rest of my A/V suite, then bookmarks and My Documents.

    I found the file in the downloads folder but I'm a little confused, I thought you wanted me to order DVD+RDL's to put the MediaCcreationTool on them because it's too big for a Patriot. So if I start to run it won't the .iso be too big for the Patriot?
    Also I'm leery of using a used Patriot for this. My experience has shown me I need a new Patriot for it to work properly even though it's suppose to work after I delete a file.

    I tried to run it but it asked for the Admin Account and password and I didn't know if I should proceed or if the options came after to run it as an .so for another or what. I did manage to move the file to my Patriot.

    https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR

    https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ

    https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH

    I tried the cmd.exe and your screen is different than mine. I again tried the shift-control-enter several times but nothing happened. I'm wondering could it be the keyboard? If I switch keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 do you think it would work
    then? I mean it should work now but it's not and that's the only thing I can think of.

    https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX

    Robert

    MediaCcreationTool22H2.exe is a "download assistant". You
    don't put it on a DVD.

    MediaCcreationTool ==> Windows.iso ==> DVD perhaps

    The Windows.iso is at least 4,700,000,000 in size and that is the
    item that will not fit a DVD properly.

    The MediaCreationTool is

    Name: MediaCreationTool22H2-W10.exe
    Size: 19,463,448 bytes (18 MiB)

    fairly small by comparison.

    If logged in with the TEMP account, that should work OK to
    run MediaCreationTool22H2.exe, then copy the Windows.iso to
    some place safer, as Win10-22H2.iso .

    It can be burned to a DVD, some day, like when you get some DVDs
    which are big enough.

    This prompt makes sense, only as far as using the TEMP account for
    its elevation. Perhaps you were signed in as Rob while trying this.

    https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR

    *******

    In the picture here, your file extensions view is not turned on.
    That's why you can't see EXE on the end of the filename.

    https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ

    You can run the MediaCreationTool on either machine, as long
    as you have an Administrator account for the (unnecessary)
    elevation it is using. You are only doing the download function
    with the program, and for that, no elevation is really required
    in order to download something. That's a fault of program design.

    https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH

    *******

    In this picture, you are attempting to start Command Prompt from
    the search box.

    https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX

    I was referring to starting it this way.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/pLTWLDqH/Elevate-Run-Box-Command-Ctrl-Shift-Enter.gif

    Paul



    I'm a leery of doing the MediaCreationTool on TEMP Account and possibly
    messing it up after all our work.
    Nevertheless, I went to the TEMP Account to try it but it's like a brand
    new account with nothing on it. I can't do anything on there and Edge
    started with their set-up. The account is totally bare and un-workable.
    We would have to repeat everything we did on the User Account to make
    this work.

    I have no clue as to how to start the MediaCreationTool from here
    because I don't know how to use Edge to gain the site to click the link.

    I also clicked run and entered cmd.exe but it still came up with User
    TEMP and I tried the shift-ctrl-enter and nothing happened. Same as before.

    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Dec 27 16:51:37 2023
    On 12/27/2023 10:48 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/26/2023 10:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I like the present Win 10 however I do agree with you that I shouldn't load anything until I get a new Admin Account working and remove the password connected User Account or at least replace it a new Account that doesn't require a password.

    I did install Dell Imaging, Word and Excel so that I could work from Win 10 as well but I won't add anymore. I'll leave the other User's version of macium for the present but once were satisfied everything is working and we do everything you want
    then I want to delete it and download my copy of macrium as well as the rest of my A/V suite, then bookmarks and My Documents.

    I found the file in the downloads folder but I'm a little confused, I thought you wanted me to order DVD+RDL's to put the MediaCcreationTool on them because it's too big for a Patriot. So if I start to run it won't the .iso be too big for the Patriot?
    Also I'm leery of using a used Patriot for this. My experience has shown me I need a new Patriot for it to work properly even though it's suppose to work after I delete a file.

    I tried to run it but it asked for the Admin Account and password and I didn't know if I should proceed or if the options came after to run it as an .so for another or what. I did manage to move the file to my Patriot.

    https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR

    https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ

    https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH

    I tried the cmd.exe and your screen is different than mine. I again tried the shift-control-enter several times but nothing happened. I'm wondering could it be the keyboard? If I switch keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 do you think it would work
    then? I mean it should work now but it's not and that's the only thing I can think of.

    https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX

    Robert

    MediaCcreationTool22H2.exe is a "download assistant". You
    don't put it on a DVD.

         MediaCcreationTool ==> Windows.iso ==> DVD perhaps

    The Windows.iso is at least 4,700,000,000 in size and that is the
    item that will not fit a DVD properly.

    The MediaCreationTool is

        Name: MediaCreationTool22H2-W10.exe
        Size: 19,463,448 bytes (18 MiB)

    fairly small by comparison.

    If logged in with the TEMP account, that should work OK to
    run MediaCreationTool22H2.exe, then copy the Windows.iso to
    some place safer, as Win10-22H2.iso .

    It can be burned to a DVD, some day, like when you get some DVDs
    which are big enough.

    This prompt makes sense, only as far as using the TEMP account for
    its elevation. Perhaps you were signed in as Rob while trying this.

        https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR

    *******

    In the picture here, your file extensions view is not turned on.
    That's why you can't see EXE on the end of the filename.

        https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ

    You can run the MediaCreationTool on either machine, as long
    as you have an Administrator account for the (unnecessary)
    elevation it is using. You are only doing the download function
    with the program, and for that, no elevation is really required
    in order to download something. That's a fault of program design.

        https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH

    *******

    In this picture, you are attempting to start Command Prompt from
    the search box.

        https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX

    I was referring to starting it this way.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/pLTWLDqH/Elevate-Run-Box-Command-Ctrl-Shift-Enter.gif

       Paul



    I'm a leery of doing the MediaCreationTool on TEMP Account and possibly messing it up after all our work.
    Nevertheless, I went to the TEMP Account to try it but it's like a brand new account with nothing on it. I can't do anything on there and Edge started with their set-up. The account is totally bare and un-workable. We would have to repeat everything we
    did on the User Account to make this work.

    I have no clue as to how to start the MediaCreationTool from here because I don't know how to use Edge to gain the site to click the link.

    I also clicked run and entered cmd.exe but it still came up with User TEMP and I tried the shift-ctrl-enter and nothing happened. Same as before.

    Robert

    Doing a quick Google, it appears holding down control and shift, then
    pressing Enter, isn't a "reliable" key sequence. Apparently some people
    have software loaded, where only using the right side control-shift plus
    enter works (all three keys next to one another). I don't have Office loaded here, so my machine is pretty barren of silly behaviors.

    There are two issues then. How the keyboard behaves. And whether the
    keyboard is hooked and functions being used globally perhaps.

    My cheap Cicero PS-2 keyboard on this machine, either side works for me.
    This person is a book writer and a programmer, and in the Win95 era, he
    made a little program to view key presses. It's not "osk.exe" by any means,
    but it presents the info a little differently.

    http://www.charlespetzold.com/src/ProgWin5.zip

    Name: ProgWin5.zip
    Size: 10,352,979 bytes (10110 KiB)
    SHA256: 70B860EEEAE77A0B9E37A75BE9CD0D5EE1380DAE57251EFA44C441586E5E60FB

    Name: KeyView2.exe <=== keyboard viewer program inside the ZIP file
    Size: 24576 bytes (24 KiB)
    SHA256: A4C85DE4B88386CAF9B856567F16FFF45106AD6EAD895D7972D01A84E9324BCC

    This is a demo, of pressing the individual keys on first the left side,
    then the right side, then trying the non-numeric Enter key. You cannot hold down any key too long with this program, or the repeat function is triggered (only the program sees this, in regular usage, the modifier keys should not repeat
    like that to the OS).

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/442DCQ5k/Using-Keyview2-EXE-keyboard-debug.gif

    You can try keyview2.exe and see if your keyboard produces similar output to mine.

    Or, if you cannot work the above sequence, try the TEMP account test again, only this time hold down right-shift and right-control, then press the Enter next to them. In the Run box for launching elevated cmd.exe .

    *******

    The MediaCreationTool22H2.exe is not going to hurt anything. The way you are going to use it "create Media for another machine", it is just going to make Windows.iso . Which you will rename to Windows10-22H2.iso so the version is evident.

    Even if you were to trigger an OS installation sequence, it stops and
    asks you what you want to do, so you can stop it.

    *******

    From the TEMP account (C:\users\TEMP\Downloads would be the normal work area) you can navigate from the top of C: to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    copy the MediaCreationTool22H2.exe you put in there, into C:\users\TEMP\Downloads .

    That is if you want a copy, without using MSEdge in the barren TEMP account.

    The TEMP user, should be able to navigate to any user folder. Whereas
    the un-elevated Rob account, might not be able to do an implicit Takeown
    and access the contents of the TEMP downloads folder.

    The TEMP account then, is ideally suited for the whole job. It can snarf
    the needed file from Rob\Downloads when it needs access to MediaCreationTool22H2.exe .

    *******

    Remember now, you're Elevated, like a God, enjoy yourself :-)

    You own the machine, nothing stands in your way.

    If you left a copy of the Firefox installer in Rob\Downloads,
    you can grab a copy from there and so on.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 28 00:56:31 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/27/2023 10:48 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/26/2023 10:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I like the present Win 10 however I do agree with you that I shouldn't load anything until I get a new Admin Account working and remove the password connected User Account or at least replace it a new Account that doesn't require a password.

    I did install Dell Imaging, Word and Excel so that I could work from Win 10 as well but I won't add anymore. I'll leave the other User's version of macium for the present but once were satisfied everything is working and we do everything you want
    then I want to delete it and download my copy of macrium as well as the rest of my A/V suite, then bookmarks and My Documents.

    I found the file in the downloads folder but I'm a little confused, I thought you wanted me to order DVD+RDL's to put the MediaCcreationTool on them because it's too big for a Patriot. So if I start to run it won't the .iso be too big for the
    Patriot? Also I'm leery of using a used Patriot for this. My experience has shown me I need a new Patriot for it to work properly even though it's suppose to work after I delete a file.

    I tried to run it but it asked for the Admin Account and password and I didn't know if I should proceed or if the options came after to run it as an .so for another or what. I did manage to move the file to my Patriot.

    https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR

    https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ

    https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH

    I tried the cmd.exe and your screen is different than mine. I again tried the shift-control-enter several times but nothing happened. I'm wondering could it be the keyboard? If I switch keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 do you think it would work
    then? I mean it should work now but it's not and that's the only thing I can think of.

    https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX

    Robert

    MediaCcreationTool22H2.exe is a "download assistant". You
    don't put it on a DVD.

         MediaCcreationTool ==> Windows.iso ==> DVD perhaps

    The Windows.iso is at least 4,700,000,000 in size and that is the
    item that will not fit a DVD properly.

    The MediaCreationTool is

        Name: MediaCreationTool22H2-W10.exe
        Size: 19,463,448 bytes (18 MiB)

    fairly small by comparison.

    If logged in with the TEMP account, that should work OK to
    run MediaCreationTool22H2.exe, then copy the Windows.iso to
    some place safer, as Win10-22H2.iso .

    It can be burned to a DVD, some day, like when you get some DVDs
    which are big enough.

    This prompt makes sense, only as far as using the TEMP account for
    its elevation. Perhaps you were signed in as Rob while trying this.

        https://postimg.cc/BLY3zZMR

    *******

    In the picture here, your file extensions view is not turned on.
    That's why you can't see EXE on the end of the filename.

        https://postimg.cc/FkdMnyfJ

    You can run the MediaCreationTool on either machine, as long
    as you have an Administrator account for the (unnecessary)
    elevation it is using. You are only doing the download function
    with the program, and for that, no elevation is really required
    in order to download something. That's a fault of program design.

        https://postimg.cc/QFr20WjH

    *******

    In this picture, you are attempting to start Command Prompt from
    the search box.

        https://postimg.cc/9RSSTDxX

    I was referring to starting it this way.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/pLTWLDqH/Elevate-Run-Box-Command-Ctrl-Shift-Enter.gif

       Paul



    I'm a leery of doing the MediaCreationTool on TEMP Account and possibly messing it up after all our work.
    Nevertheless, I went to the TEMP Account to try it but it's like a brand new account with nothing on it. I can't do anything on there and Edge started with their set-up. The account is totally bare and un-workable. We would have to repeat everything
    we did on the User Account to make this work.

    I have no clue as to how to start the MediaCreationTool from here because I don't know how to use Edge to gain the site to click the link.

    I also clicked run and entered cmd.exe but it still came up with User TEMP and I tried the shift-ctrl-enter and nothing happened. Same as before.

    Robert

    Doing a quick Google, it appears holding down control and shift, then pressing Enter, isn't a "reliable" key sequence. Apparently some people
    have software loaded, where only using the right side control-shift plus enter works (all three keys next to one another). I don't have Office loaded here, so my machine is pretty barren of silly behaviors.

    There are two issues then. How the keyboard behaves. And whether the
    keyboard is hooked and functions being used globally perhaps.

    My cheap Cicero PS-2 keyboard on this machine, either side works for me.
    This person is a book writer and a programmer, and in the Win95 era, he
    made a little program to view key presses. It's not "osk.exe" by any means, but it presents the info a little differently.

    http://www.charlespetzold.com/src/ProgWin5.zip

    Name: ProgWin5.zip
    Size: 10,352,979 bytes (10110 KiB)
    SHA256: 70B860EEEAE77A0B9E37A75BE9CD0D5EE1380DAE57251EFA44C441586E5E60FB

    Name: KeyView2.exe <=== keyboard viewer program inside the ZIP file
    Size: 24576 bytes (24 KiB)
    SHA256: A4C85DE4B88386CAF9B856567F16FFF45106AD6EAD895D7972D01A84E9324BCC

    This is a demo, of pressing the individual keys on first the left side,
    then the right side, then trying the non-numeric Enter key. You cannot hold down any key too long with this program, or the repeat function is triggered (only the program sees this, in regular usage, the modifier keys should not repeat
    like that to the OS).

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/442DCQ5k/Using-Keyview2-EXE-keyboard-debug.gif

    You can try keyview2.exe and see if your keyboard produces similar output to mine.

    Or, if you cannot work the above sequence, try the TEMP account test again, only this time hold down right-shift and right-control, then press the Enter next to them. In the Run box for launching elevated cmd.exe .

    *******

    The MediaCreationTool22H2.exe is not going to hurt anything. The way you are going to use it "create Media for another machine", it is just going to make Windows.iso . Which you will rename to Windows10-22H2.iso so the version is evident.

    Even if you were to trigger an OS installation sequence, it stops and
    asks you what you want to do, so you can stop it.

    *******

    From the TEMP account (C:\users\TEMP\Downloads would be the normal work area)
    you can navigate from the top of C: to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    copy the MediaCreationTool22H2.exe you put in there, into C:\users\TEMP\Downloads .

    That is if you want a copy, without using MSEdge in the barren TEMP account.

    The TEMP user, should be able to navigate to any user folder. Whereas
    the un-elevated Rob account, might not be able to do an implicit Takeown
    and access the contents of the TEMP downloads folder.

    The TEMP account then, is ideally suited for the whole job. It can snarf
    the needed file from Rob\Downloads when it needs access to MediaCreationTool22H2.exe .

    *******

    Remember now, you're Elevated, like a God, enjoy yourself :-)

    You own the machine, nothing stands in your way.

    If you left a copy of the Firefox installer in Rob\Downloads,
    you can grab a copy from there and so on.

    Paul




    I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also
    had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I
    switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no
    model number on it or anything and it sits flat.

    I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still
    nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both
    keyboards and still nothing.

    I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis

    I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it
    on a Patriot.
    but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it
    gave me these error messages.

    There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and
    then try running the tool again.

    I did and then got this

    There was a problem downloading some files.

    We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure
    you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error
    code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    Seems like nothing is working,..

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Dec 28 07:47:26 2023
    On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
    sits flat.

    I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.

    I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis

    I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
    but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.

    There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.

    I did and then got this

    There was a problem downloading some files.

    We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    Seems like nothing is working,..

    Robert

    I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
    Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt.

    C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther # Perhaps some control happens here.

    C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp # This BITS background transfer operation represents
    # a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
    # The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
    # number will be different on your machine.

    We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this. 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    The program still seems to have the same name as before.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool

    https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe

    Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
    Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
    SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A

    PS D:\> .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0x80072EE2

    # for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
    WININET_E_TIMEOUT winerror.h
    # The operation timed out
    # 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
    PS D:\>

    The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
    is available about that.

    *******

    The best thing to do at this point, is take MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing this on the 780, do it on the 8500.

    It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.

    For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
    worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
    It seems to be compiled with VS2017.

    This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got
    some time ago.

    Name: Windows.iso
    Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
    SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658

    Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 28 06:12:15 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
    sits flat.

    I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.

    I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis

    I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
    but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.

    There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.

    I did and then got this

    There was a problem downloading some files.

    We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    Seems like nothing is working,..

    Robert

    I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
    Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt.

    C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther # Perhaps some control happens here.

    C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp # This BITS background transfer operation represents
    # a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
    # The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
    # number will be different on your machine.

    We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this. 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    The program still seems to have the same name as before.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool

    https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe

    Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
    Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
    SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A

    PS D:\> .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0x80072EE2

    # for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
    WININET_E_TIMEOUT winerror.h # The operation timed out
    # 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
    PS D:\>

    The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
    is available about that.

    *******

    The best thing to do at this point, is take MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
    to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing this on the 780, do it on the 8500.

    It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.

    For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
    worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
    It seems to be compiled with VS2017.

    This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got some time ago.

    Name: Windows.iso
    Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
    SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658

    Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.

    Paul










    I switched hd's in the 780 so the Win 7 is it now and downloaded
    and scanned the MediaCreationTool then put it on the Patriot.


    Robert





    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 28 05:26:02 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
    sits flat.

    I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.

    I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis

    I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
    but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.

    There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.

    I did and then got this

    There was a problem downloading some files.

    We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    Seems like nothing is working,..

    Robert

    I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
    Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt.

    C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther # Perhaps some control happens here.

    C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp # This BITS background transfer operation represents
    # a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
    # The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
    # number will be different on your machine.

    We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this. 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    The program still seems to have the same name as before.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool

    https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe

    Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
    Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
    SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A

    PS D:\> .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0x80072EE2

    # for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
    WININET_E_TIMEOUT winerror.h # The operation timed out
    # 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
    PS D:\>

    The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
    is available about that.

    *******

    The best thing to do at this point, is take MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
    to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing this on the 780, do it on the 8500.

    It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.

    For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
    worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
    It seems to be compiled with VS2017.

    This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got some time ago.

    Name: Windows.iso
    Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
    SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658

    Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.

    Paul










    I clicked on your first link and read through it all, whew,..
    then clicked on your second link without knowing it was a download.
    I'm on the 8500 so I can't scan it. I'll do it on the 780 and see what
    happens.

    I downloaded it and scanned it then clicked it and saw a screen flash
    on/off with data. Am I suppose to run it as Administrator?

    I haven't made a MediaCreationTool yet because it won't let me proceed.
    I only have your link. I don't want to risk the 8500. I'll change the HD
    in the 780 back to Win 7 and try to put it on a Patriot again.

    I ordered the DVD+RDL's and will get a Patriot also and some SD-cards.
    I also ordered a Hardon Karden base module for speakers and I have (2)
    sets of satellites from the time my circuits were blown I just had to
    replace the base module so I ended up with 2 extra sets of satellite
    speakers that plug into it that form a speaker system. It's the same one
    I have on the 8500. It originally came with the 8200.It's a great
    speaker system. So I thought I would duplicate it on then 780.

    Robert







    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 28 05:58:06 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
    sits flat.

    I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.

    I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis

    I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
    but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.

    There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.

    I did and then got this

    There was a problem downloading some files.

    We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    Seems like nothing is working,..

    Robert

    I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
    Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt.

    C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther # Perhaps some control happens here.

    C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp # This BITS background transfer operation represents
    # a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
    # The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
    # number will be different on your machine.

    We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this. 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    The program still seems to have the same name as before.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool

    https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe

    Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
    Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
    SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A

    PS D:\> .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0x80072EE2

    # for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
    WININET_E_TIMEOUT winerror.h # The operation timed out
    # 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
    PS D:\>

    The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
    is available about that.

    *******

    The best thing to do at this point, is take MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
    to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing this on the 780, do it on the 8500.

    It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.

    For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
    worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
    It seems to be compiled with VS2017.

    This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got some time ago.

    Name: Windows.iso
    Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
    SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658

    Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.

    Paul











    I had to post this to you,.... you'll understand in the last section.

    I just had a thought, couldn't we use the Macrium Rescue CD to gain
    access to the C: prompt so I can enter the commands? That's how we did everything before. Not by the cmd.exe

    I was just about to start the download procedure when the screen started scrolling on it own ! and I tried alt-tab and the screens were going
    crazy. So I closed everything down.
    I opened Task Manager to see if there was another User logged on but it
    only showed me.

    It sure acted like someone had hacked into my computer and was a bit frightening.


    Robert


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Dec 28 09:34:59 2023
    On 12/28/2023 8:26 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I clicked on your first link and read through it all, whew,..
    then clicked on your second link without knowing it was a download.
    I'm on the 8500 so I can't scan it. I'll do it on the 780 and see what happens.

    I downloaded it and scanned it then clicked it and saw a screen flash on/off with data. Am I suppose to run it as Administrator?

    I haven't made a MediaCreationTool yet because it won't let me proceed. I only have your link. I don't want to risk the 8500. I'll change the HD in the 780 back to Win 7 and try to put it on a Patriot again.

    I ordered the DVD+RDL's and will get a Patriot also and some SD-cards.
    I also ordered a Hardon Karden base module for speakers and I have (2)
    sets of satellites from the time my circuits were blown I just had to replace the base module so I ended up with 2 extra sets of satellite speakers that plug into it that form a speaker system. It's the same one I have on the 8500. It originally came
    with the 8200.It's a great speaker system. So I thought I would duplicate it on then 780.

     Robert

    Err_6.4.5.exe is a command line tool.
    It runs unelevated.
    It runs in a Command Prompt window or similar.

    C:
    cd \
    cd users\Rob\Downloads
    Err_6.4.5.exe 0x80072EE2 # And then it dumps several possibilities.
    # Usually one of the possibilities makes more sense than the rest.

    It is just a simple lookup tool, that combines a number
    of Visual Studio header files with error results in them.
    There used to be web pages with some errors listed in them,
    but that wasn't maintained. And it does not look like this
    utility gets updates either.

    I expect the staff may use it, like the tech support people
    when working with a customer.

    *******

    You have enough disks there. I bet you have some disk on which
    this will work.

    *******

    Since postimage isn't working, I'll have to use a tutorial link instead.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/22882-show-command-prompt-windows-powershell-win-x-menu-windows-10-a.html

    What that does, is adds Administrator Command Prompt and regular Command Prompt,
    to the "right-click of the Start button" menu.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Dec 28 11:21:07 2023
    On 12/28/2023 8:58 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
    sits flat.

    I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.

    I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis

    I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
    but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.

    There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.

    I did and then got this

    There was a problem downloading some files.

    We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    Seems like nothing is working,..

    Robert

    I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
    Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt. >>
        C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther     # Perhaps some control happens here.

        C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp        # This BITS background transfer operation represents
                                            # a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
                                            # The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
                                            # number will be different on your machine.

    We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this.   0x80072EE2 - 0x20000 >>
    The program still seems to have the same name as before.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool

        https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe

        Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
        Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
        SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A

    PS D:\>    .\Err_6.4.5.exe  0x80072EE2

    # for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
       WININET_E_TIMEOUT                                              winerror.h
    # The operation timed out
    # 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
    PS D:\>

    The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
    is available about that.

    *******

    The best thing to do at this point, is take  MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
    to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing
    this on the 780, do it on the 8500.

    It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.

    For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
    worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
    It seems to be compiled with VS2017.

    This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. >> Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got
    some time ago.

    Name: Windows.iso
    Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
    SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658

    Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.

        Paul











    I had to post this  to you,.... you'll understand in the last section.

    I just had a  thought, couldn't we use the Macrium Rescue CD to gain access to the C: prompt so I can enter the commands? That's how we did everything before. Not by the cmd.exe

    I was just about to start the download procedure when the screen started scrolling on it own ! and I tried alt-tab and the screens were going crazy. So I closed everything down.
    I opened Task Manager to see if there was another User logged on but it only showed me.

    It sure acted like someone had hacked into my computer and was a bit frightening.


    Robert

    Do you think this was related to your visit to PostImage ?
    The scrolling behavior.

    To do an offline scan with Windows Defender, there are instructions here.
    The machine will reboot, and the scan results are shown in the listed filenames in the article. I've tried this, but wasn't particularly impressed. Offline scans can only work on signatures, and they cannot detect hooks that might
    be used when the OS is actually running. Depending on the disk size,
    this could take at least a couple hours.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    *******

    As for Macrium, I tested it, and MediaCreationTool22H2.exe just
    returns without doing anything. I don't think WinPE has a BITS subsystem
    (which is something Windows Update would use).

    The only other way to do this, might be to set up a virtual machine
    and do it from there.

    *******

    If you're running with the TEMP account, double clicking the MediaCreationTool22H2.exe
    should just work. There should be a UAC prompt, and then it should carry on. You don't
    need an elevated Command Prompt for it to work. The UAC should pop up when
    it needs approval to elevate. Select the option to make media for another machine, and that should just be a download.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 28 20:52:52 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/28/2023 8:58 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
    sits flat.

    I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.

    I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis

    I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
    but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.

    There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.

    I did and then got this

    There was a problem downloading some files.

    We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    Seems like nothing is working,..

    Robert

    I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
    Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt. >>>
        C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther     # Perhaps some control happens here.

        C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp        # This BITS background transfer operation represents
                                            # a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
                                            # The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
                                            # number will be different on your machine.

    We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this.   0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    The program still seems to have the same name as before.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool

        https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe

        Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
        Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
        SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A

    PS D:\>    .\Err_6.4.5.exe  0x80072EE2

    # for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
       WININET_E_TIMEOUT                                              winerror.h
    # The operation timed out
    # 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
    PS D:\>

    The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
    is available about that.

    *******

    The best thing to do at this point, is take  MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
    to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing
    this on the 780, do it on the 8500.

    It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.

    For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
    worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
    It seems to be compiled with VS2017.

    This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. >>> Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got >>> some time ago.

    Name: Windows.iso
    Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
    SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658 >>>
    Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.

        Paul











    I had to post this  to you,.... you'll understand in the last section.

    I just had a  thought, couldn't we use the Macrium Rescue CD to gain access to the C: prompt so I can enter the commands? That's how we did everything before. Not by the cmd.exe

    I was just about to start the download procedure when the screen started scrolling on it own ! and I tried alt-tab and the screens were going crazy. So I closed everything down.
    I opened Task Manager to see if there was another User logged on but it only showed me.

    It sure acted like someone had hacked into my computer and was a bit frightening.


    Robert

    Do you think this was related to your visit to PostImage ?
    The scrolling behavior.

    To do an offline scan with Windows Defender, there are instructions here.
    The machine will reboot, and the scan results are shown in the listed filenames
    in the article. I've tried this, but wasn't particularly impressed. Offline scans can only work on signatures, and they cannot detect hooks that might
    be used when the OS is actually running. Depending on the disk size,
    this could take at least a couple hours.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    *******

    As for Macrium, I tested it, and MediaCreationTool22H2.exe just
    returns without doing anything. I don't think WinPE has a BITS subsystem (which is something Windows Update would use).

    The only other way to do this, might be to set up a virtual machine
    and do it from there.

    *******

    If you're running with the TEMP account, double clicking the MediaCreationTool22H2.exe
    should just work. There should be a UAC prompt, and then it should carry on. You don't
    need an elevated Command Prompt for it to work. The UAC should pop up when
    it needs approval to elevate. Select the option to make media for another machine, and that should just be a download.

    Paul



    I tried to do the Err_6.4.5.exe command tool on the 780 Win 7 but it
    also has the same problem of C:\\ UserRob and I can't get it to the C:
    prompt. I checked and the 8500 has the same problem.

    We can't get either computer to the C: prompt unless we use the Macrium
    Rescue CD. That's how we hacked it but it's not letting us change the
    User.Rob Account's to the C:
    prompt and both computers have this. I just checked the the 8500 Admin
    Account is the same way. All the computers are on un-elevated accounts
    and we can't elevate them

    btw in Win 10 you had me right click then click run and enter cmd but
    how do I do it in Win 7 ? The only way I know of is to use the search
    box that's why I did it in Win 10.

    Postimage is working again, here's the images I wanted to show you.

    https://postimg.cc/62tqSjL9

    https://postimg.cc/7CmrHKrP

    https://postimg.cc/SjY33SRx

    https://postimg.cc/D8VHK94d

    However, as I said, I was able to finally download the
    MedicaCreationTool and put it on the Patriot.

    I don't know if the scrolling was related to it,..I had been scrolling
    down the page
    looking for your link to download and had found it and was reading the
    screen and my hand was off the mouse when it started scrolling on its
    own! That was weird! and the screens going crazy all on their own I
    didn't touch anything.

    Like I said I opened Task Manager to check but I was the only one logged
    on. After that everything was normal again. It's like I had a Close
    Encounter *L*

    Did you want me to run the Windows Defender scan?

    So your saying we don' need to do a command prompt etc for the MediaCreationTool that was only for the Err_6.4.5.exe command tool?
    Understood, but you don't actually want me to insert the Patriot and run
    it do you ? it would write over the OS.

    Robert







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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 28 21:50:36 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/28/2023 8:58 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
    sits flat.

    I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.

    I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis

    I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
    but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.

    There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.

    I did and then got this

    There was a problem downloading some files.

    We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    Seems like nothing is working,..

    Robert

    I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
    Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt. >>>
        C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther     # Perhaps some control happens here.

        C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp        # This BITS background transfer operation represents
                                            # a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
                                            # The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
                                            # number will be different on your machine.

    We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this.   0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    The program still seems to have the same name as before.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool

        https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe

        Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
        Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
        SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A

    PS D:\>    .\Err_6.4.5.exe  0x80072EE2

    # for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
       WININET_E_TIMEOUT                                              winerror.h
    # The operation timed out
    # 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
    PS D:\>

    The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
    is available about that.

    *******

    The best thing to do at this point, is take  MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
    to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing
    this on the 780, do it on the 8500.

    It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.

    For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
    worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
    It seems to be compiled with VS2017.

    This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. >>> Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got >>> some time ago.

    Name: Windows.iso
    Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
    SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658 >>>
    Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.

        Paul











    I had to post this  to you,.... you'll understand in the last section.

    I just had a  thought, couldn't we use the Macrium Rescue CD to gain access to the C: prompt so I can enter the commands? That's how we did everything before. Not by the cmd.exe

    I was just about to start the download procedure when the screen started scrolling on it own ! and I tried alt-tab and the screens were going crazy. So I closed everything down.
    I opened Task Manager to see if there was another User logged on but it only showed me.

    It sure acted like someone had hacked into my computer and was a bit frightening.


    Robert

    Do you think this was related to your visit to PostImage ?
    The scrolling behavior.

    To do an offline scan with Windows Defender, there are instructions here.
    The machine will reboot, and the scan results are shown in the listed filenames
    in the article. I've tried this, but wasn't particularly impressed. Offline scans can only work on signatures, and they cannot detect hooks that might
    be used when the OS is actually running. Depending on the disk size,
    this could take at least a couple hours.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    *******

    As for Macrium, I tested it, and MediaCreationTool22H2.exe just
    returns without doing anything. I don't think WinPE has a BITS subsystem (which is something Windows Update would use).

    The only other way to do this, might be to set up a virtual machine
    and do it from there.

    *******

    If you're running with the TEMP account, double clicking the MediaCreationTool22H2.exe
    should just work. There should be a UAC prompt, and then it should carry on. You don't
    need an elevated Command Prompt for it to work. The UAC should pop up when
    it needs approval to elevate. Select the option to make media for another machine, and that should just be a download.

    Paul


    Newegg cancelled my oder for the DVD+RDL's

    https://postimg.cc/MvmVqVM9

    What are we using the DVD+RDL's for again?

    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 28 23:35:18 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/28/2023 8:58 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
    sits flat.

    I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.

    I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis

    I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
    but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.

    There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.

    I did and then got this

    There was a problem downloading some files.

    We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    Seems like nothing is working,..

    Robert

    I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
    Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt. >>>
        C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther     # Perhaps some control happens here.

        C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp        # This BITS background transfer operation represents
                                            # a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
                                            # The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
                                            # number will be different on your machine.

    We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this.   0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    The program still seems to have the same name as before.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool

        https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe

        Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
        Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
        SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A

    PS D:\>    .\Err_6.4.5.exe  0x80072EE2

    # for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
       WININET_E_TIMEOUT                                              winerror.h
    # The operation timed out
    # 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
    PS D:\>

    The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
    is available about that.

    *******

    The best thing to do at this point, is take  MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
    to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing
    this on the 780, do it on the 8500.

    It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.

    For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
    worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
    It seems to be compiled with VS2017.

    This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. >>> Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got >>> some time ago.

    Name: Windows.iso
    Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
    SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658 >>>
    Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.

        Paul











    I had to post this  to you,.... you'll understand in the last section.

    I just had a  thought, couldn't we use the Macrium Rescue CD to gain access to the C: prompt so I can enter the commands? That's how we did everything before. Not by the cmd.exe

    I was just about to start the download procedure when the screen started scrolling on it own ! and I tried alt-tab and the screens were going crazy. So I closed everything down.
    I opened Task Manager to see if there was another User logged on but it only showed me.

    It sure acted like someone had hacked into my computer and was a bit frightening.


    Robert

    Do you think this was related to your visit to PostImage ?
    The scrolling behavior.

    To do an offline scan with Windows Defender, there are instructions here.
    The machine will reboot, and the scan results are shown in the listed filenames
    in the article. I've tried this, but wasn't particularly impressed. Offline scans can only work on signatures, and they cannot detect hooks that might
    be used when the OS is actually running. Depending on the disk size,
    this could take at least a couple hours.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    *******

    As for Macrium, I tested it, and MediaCreationTool22H2.exe just
    returns without doing anything. I don't think WinPE has a BITS subsystem (which is something Windows Update would use).

    The only other way to do this, might be to set up a virtual machine
    and do it from there.

    *******

    If you're running with the TEMP account, double clicking the MediaCreationTool22H2.exe
    should just work. There should be a UAC prompt, and then it should carry on. You don't
    need an elevated Command Prompt for it to work. The UAC should pop up when
    it needs approval to elevate. Select the option to make media for another machine, and that should just be a download.

    Paul



    I was reading through the Windows Denfender offline instructions
    and it has to be used on a elevated Admin Account. So we can't do
    it.



    Robert

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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 28 23:46:20 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/28/2023 8:58 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and it
    sits flat.

    I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.

    I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis

    I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
    but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.

    There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.

    I did and then got this

    There was a problem downloading some files.

    We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    Seems like nothing is working,..

    Robert

    I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
    Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt. >>>
        C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther     # Perhaps some control happens here.

        C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp        # This BITS background transfer operation represents
                                            # a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
                                            # The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
                                            # number will be different on your machine.

    We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this.   0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    The program still seems to have the same name as before.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool

        https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe

        Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
        Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
        SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A

    PS D:\>    .\Err_6.4.5.exe  0x80072EE2

    # for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
       WININET_E_TIMEOUT                                              winerror.h
    # The operation timed out
    # 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
    PS D:\>

    The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
    is available about that.

    *******

    The best thing to do at this point, is take  MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
    to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing
    this on the 780, do it on the 8500.

    It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.

    For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
    worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
    It seems to be compiled with VS2017.

    This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD. >>> Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got >>> some time ago.

    Name: Windows.iso
    Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
    SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658 >>>
    Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.

        Paul











    I had to post this  to you,.... you'll understand in the last section.

    I just had a  thought, couldn't we use the Macrium Rescue CD to gain access to the C: prompt so I can enter the commands? That's how we did everything before. Not by the cmd.exe

    I was just about to start the download procedure when the screen started scrolling on it own ! and I tried alt-tab and the screens were going crazy. So I closed everything down.
    I opened Task Manager to see if there was another User logged on but it only showed me.

    It sure acted like someone had hacked into my computer and was a bit frightening.


    Robert

    Do you think this was related to your visit to PostImage ?
    The scrolling behavior.

    To do an offline scan with Windows Defender, there are instructions here.
    The machine will reboot, and the scan results are shown in the listed filenames
    in the article. I've tried this, but wasn't particularly impressed. Offline scans can only work on signatures, and they cannot detect hooks that might
    be used when the OS is actually running. Depending on the disk size,
    this could take at least a couple hours.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    *******

    As for Macrium, I tested it, and MediaCreationTool22H2.exe just
    returns without doing anything. I don't think WinPE has a BITS subsystem (which is something Windows Update would use).

    The only other way to do this, might be to set up a virtual machine
    and do it from there.

    *******

    If you're running with the TEMP account, double clicking the MediaCreationTool22H2.exe
    should just work. There should be a UAC prompt, and then it should carry on. You don't
    need an elevated Command Prompt for it to work. The UAC should pop up when
    it needs approval to elevate. Select the option to make media for another machine, and that should just be a download.

    Paul



    Newegg cancelled my order for the DVD+RDL's

    https://postimg.cc/MfbKXtKs

    What did I need them for again? I thought we were
    going to use them to burn a MediaCreationTool on
    them?

    If so, do I right click the link to do so?

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 29 03:03:34 2023
    On 12/28/2023 11:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/28/2023 8:58 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/28/2023 3:56 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I have a Microsoft 4000 ergonomic keyboard on my 8500 and the780 also had one but the 'L' key didn't work so I had to type let as Iet. So I switched keyboards for a basic Microsoft ergonomic keyboard. There's no model number on it or anything and
    it sits flat.

    I switched the keyboards and used a Microsoft 4000 keyboard but still nothing and I tried the shift-control-enter on both sides of both keyboards and still nothing.

    I'm not following you on your example of the keyboard diagnosis

    I tried to run the MediaCreationTool via the Rob User Account and put it on a Patriot.
    but it didn't work. For some reason Postimage isn't working,.. anyway it gave me these error messages.

    There was a problem starting Setup. Close the tool , restart your PC and then try running the tool again.

    I did and then got this

    There was a problem downloading some files.

    We weren't able to download all the necessary files. Check to make sure you're connected to the internet and try running the tool again. Error code 0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    Seems like nothing is working,..

    Robert

    I have a suspicion, that a common area that would get used by both
    Rob and TEMP, has leftovers from a previous MediaCreationTool22H2 attempt. >>>>
         C:\$Windows.~WS\Sources\Panther     # Perhaps some control happens here.

         C:\ESD\Downloads\BITB023.tmp        # This BITS background transfer operation represents
                                             # a good portion of the 4.7GB. It would be around 4.1GB.
                                             # The BITS transfer jobs are done sequentially, so the "023"
                                             # number will be different on your machine.

    We can use the Windows Error Lookup thing for this.   0x80072EE2 - 0x20000

    The program still seems to have the same name as before.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/debug/system-error-code-lookup-tool

         https://download.microsoft.com/download/4/3/2/432140e8-fb6c-4145-8192-25242838c542/Err_6.4.5/Err_6.4.5.exe

         Name: Err_6.4.5.exe
         Size: 2294520 bytes (2240 KiB)
         SHA256: 88739EC82BA16A0B4A3C83C1DD2FCA6336AD8E2A1E5F1238C085B1E86AB8834A

    PS D:\>    .\Err_6.4.5.exe  0x80072EE2

    # for hex 0x80072ee2 / decimal -2147012894
        WININET_E_TIMEOUT                                              winerror.h
    # The operation timed out
    # 1 matches found for "0x80072EE2"
    PS D:\>

    The transfer failed somewhere during the attempt. 20002 is the "phase", but no info
    is available about that.

    *******

    The best thing to do at this point, is take  MediaCreationTool22H2.exe with you
    to another machine, and attempt a run with another OS. Like, if you are doing
    this on the 780, do it on the 8500.

    It does not matter whether you do it on the 780 or the 8500.

    For example, it does not seem to rely on .NET , so we don't have to
    worry about that. There might be a Visual Studio runtime missing.
    It seems to be compiled with VS2017.

    This is what I got. It is 193,000,000 bytes too big for a single-layer DVD.
    Took about 45 minutes or so. This file is also bigger than the 22H2 I got >>>> some time ago.

    Name: Windows.iso
    Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
    SHA256: 4540A202FE7D8DC1034B3DE408FC005EE2549127EF15441D169140ED3CA91658 >>>>
    Try on another machine. I'm sure you can get elevated on another of your setups.

         Paul











    I had to post this  to you,.... you'll understand in the last section.

    I just had a  thought, couldn't we use the Macrium Rescue CD to gain access to the C: prompt so I can enter the commands? That's how we did everything before. Not by the cmd.exe

    I was just about to start the download procedure when the screen started scrolling on it own ! and I tried alt-tab and the screens were going crazy. So I closed everything down.
    I opened Task Manager to see if there was another User logged on but it only showed me.

    It sure acted like someone had hacked into my computer and was a bit frightening.


    Robert

    Do you think this was related to your visit to PostImage ?
    The scrolling behavior.

    To do an offline scan with Windows Defender, there are instructions here.
    The machine will reboot, and the scan results are shown in the listed filenames
    in the article. I've tried this, but wasn't particularly impressed. Offline >> scans can only work on signatures, and they cannot detect hooks that might >> be used when the OS is actually running. Depending on the disk size,
    this could take at least a couple hours.

         https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    *******

    As for Macrium, I tested it, and  MediaCreationTool22H2.exe  just
    returns without doing anything. I don't think WinPE has a BITS subsystem
    (which is something Windows Update would use).

    The only other way to do this, might be to set up a virtual machine
    and do it from there.

    *******

    If you're running with the TEMP account, double clicking the MediaCreationTool22H2.exe
    should just work. There should be a UAC prompt, and then it should carry on. You don't
    need an elevated Command Prompt for it to work. The UAC should pop up when >> it needs approval to elevate. Select the option to make media for another
    machine, and that should just be a download.

        Paul



    I tried to do the Err_6.4.5.exe command tool on the 780 Win 7 but it also has the same problem of C:\\ UserRob and I can't get it to the C: prompt. I checked and the 8500 has the same problem.

    We can't get either computer to the C: prompt unless we use the Macrium Rescue CD. That's  how we hacked it but it's not letting us change the User.Rob Account's to the C:
    prompt and both computers have this. I just checked the the 8500 Admin Account is the same way. All the computers are on un-elevated accounts and we can't elevate them

    btw in Win 10 you had me right click then click run and enter cmd but how do I do it in Win 7 ? The only way I know of is to use the search box that's why I did it in Win 10.

    Postimage is working again, here's the images I wanted to show you.

    https://postimg.cc/62tqSjL9 UAC prompt from Rob account, to run MediaCreationTool

    https://postimg.cc/7CmrHKrP File Explorer -- where MediaCreationTool is located

    https://postimg.cc/SjY33SRx Problem downloading files 0x80072EE2-20000

    https://postimg.cc/D8VHK94d

    However, as I said, I was able to finally download the MedicaCreationTool and put it on the Patriot.

    I don't know if the scrolling was related to it,..I had been scrolling down the page
    looking for your link to download and had found it and was reading the screen and my hand was off the mouse when it started scrolling on its own! That was weird! and the screens going crazy all on their own I didn't touch anything.

    Like I said I opened Task Manager to check but I was the only one logged on. After that everything was normal again. It's like I had a Close Encounter *L*

    Did you want me to run the Windows Defender scan?

    So your saying we don' need to do a command prompt etc for the MediaCreationTool that was only for the Err_6.4.5.exe command tool? Understood, but you don't actually want me to insert the Patriot and run it do you ? it would write over the OS.

    Robert

    When Windows installs, it has "gates". It asks for permission, once it is ready to begin. You should always be able to escape when that prompt shows up.

    The reason it asks for permission, is if it is doing a Clean Install, it will say it is not going to preserve user programs or user data. And they need consent from the user, that the user understands what is about to happen.

    *******

    You will be selecting the option to "make media for another machine", so it should
    not try to install.

    MediaCreationTool22H2.exe , is a GUI application and does not
    need a command line. It can be launched with mouse. And UAC prompt, if this is the
    TEMP account. You can carry it around on a USB stick. You can launch it from the
    USB stick too. It's going to ask you though, where to save the Windows.iso it will be making.

    Err_6.4.5.exe is a command line tool that does not have a GUI. You run it
    in some sort of terminal window. And the argument you pass, is the error number

    Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005

    To run it, it must either be somewhere in %path% , or, you can CD to the directory it is in and use it.

    C:

    cd users\Rob\Downloads

    Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005

    *******

    Their cure for 0x80072EE2 in this video, is basically to fix Windows Update. Part of the troubleshooting, would be starting BITS running (so the "wget"
    that MediaCreationTool22H2.exe is doing, would work).

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LwLjTTcf_0

    In Windows 10, you can do Start : Run : control.exe to start Control Panels. Once the icon appears on the taskbar, you can right-click it and select "Pin to Taskbar".

    In Control Panels, is Troubleshooting.

    In Troubleshooting, under System and Security, is "Fix problems with Windows Update".
    This would automate much of what is going on in the Youtube video.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/Ss9Zswyn/Windows-Update-Troubleshooter.gif

    Troubleshooting is going to need elevation at some point, because
    it cannot modify services and settings, without administrators group.

    It's just as easy though, to switch machines, find an administrators group account, and do your MediaCreationTool there.

    Carrying it on the Patriot stick and double-clicking it, is fine.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 29 03:28:09 2023
    On 12/29/2023 12:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Newegg cancelled my oder for the DVD+RDL's

    https://postimg.cc/MvmVqVM9

    What are we using the DVD+RDL's for again?

    Robert

    If you want to make a Windows 10 installer DVD, from the MediaCreationTool22H2.exe "Windows.iso" file, then you
    need media big enough for the job. That is a dual-layer DVD.

    You don't have to buy these with Jewel boxes. I selected these
    particular ones, to keep the media clean. Spindles of disc blanks
    gets you more blanks, but then you have to manage the media storage
    yourself. You might be able to get a cake box of 25 of these, without
    covers, for about the same price.

    Verbatim 95311 5 discs https://www.amazon.com/Verbatim-DVD-8-5GB-Branded-Surface/dp/B000F0ELOG

    Verbatim 94178, is a separate package of 50 jewel boxes,
    which is another way to keep media clean. I got a box of these
    at the local computer store, a week ago, but the staff had fun
    finding them in the store. The clerk thought they were in the cage,
    but they were up at the cash. I've been out of jewel boxes for
    years, and have been tossing old media, to free up boxes :-)

    https://www.verbatim.com/prod/accessories/storage-cases/cd-dvd-storage-cases/cd-dvd-slim-cases-sku-94178/

    The purpose of the 95311, is so you'd have just a few discs + jewel boxes,
    and not a lot of leftovers, and it would not take a lot of storage space.
    If you buy a 50-pack of jewel boxes, that takes up more room.
    And if you don't like jewel boxes, it's an unnecessary purchase.

    I buy jewel boxes out of sync with media. I bought a 100 cake box
    of discs (since all I've got here is some bad CMC to work with),
    and I picked up a 50 jewel box to go with it. Some of the cake box
    will get tossed in time, so maybe the 50 jewel box will be enough.
    I don't really burn enough media per year, to make a dent in that,
    so that's a "lifetime supply" for me :-)

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 29 04:24:17 2023
    On 12/29/2023 2:35 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


         https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    I was reading through the Windows Denfender offline instructions
    and it has to be used on a elevated Admin Account. So we can't do
    it.

    Robert

    You can log into the TEMP account and run it there.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Dec 29 06:40:04 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/29/2023 2:35 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


         https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    I was reading through the Windows Denfender offline instructions
    and it has to be used on a elevated Admin Account. So we can't do
    it.

    Robert

    You can log into the TEMP account and run it there.

    Paul





    I understand that if I run the MediaCreationTool that it has safeguards
    to prevent it from overwriting the current OS but are you asking me to
    run it and is that what you wanted me to do and put it on the DVD+RDL's
    ? If so, I need to re-order them.

    I understand the Err_6.4.5.exe but we cannot get to the command prompt
    except via Macrium and the Rescue CD.

    I still propose we use the Macrium Rescue CD to get to the command
    prompt and let me finish the Lieutentant Admin Account with a new
    password which it should accept.

    C:
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant TEMP /ADD


    So I need to fix the error code in the MediaCreationTool first?

    I watched most of the video,, whew!!!
    OK, it's simplified and as you say I can do my MediaCreationTool on the
    Admin Account to elevate it but again if I run it where is it going to?

    I also need to switch hd's again for all this.

    Robert



    --
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Dec 29 06:56:39 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/29/2023 2:35 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


         https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    I was reading through the Windows Denfender offline instructions
    and it has to be used on a elevated Admin Account. So we can't do
    it.

    Robert

    You can log into the TEMP account and run it there.

    Paul





    I'll have to re-read the instructions but in
    any case I have to switch hd's again and I
    would rather wait until after I do my monthly
    mrimgs on the 1st.


    Robert

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    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Dec 29 06:53:55 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/29/2023 2:35 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


         https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    I was reading through the Windows Denfender offline instructions
    and it has to be used on a elevated Admin Account. So we can't do
    it.

    Robert

    You can log into the TEMP account and run it there.

    Paul




    OK, so I do have it right,... then we need to wait
    to do this because they cancelled my order.

    I can't use Amazon because there's a snafu with my
    account and the RAM I tried to buy through them. I
    like jewel boxes, it keeps the disks clean.

    I could try driving to Staples tomorrow see if they
    have some Verbatim 8.5 GB DVD+RDL's and I'll get some
    sd-cards.

    In the meantime we can finish creating my Admin Account.
    for Lieutenant.

    Robert


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 29 11:52:52 2023
    On 12/29/2023 9:40 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/29/2023 2:35 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


          https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    I was reading through the Windows Denfender offline instructions
    and it has to be used on a elevated Admin Account. So we can't do
    it.

    Robert

    You can log into the TEMP account and run it there.

        Paul





    I understand that if I run the MediaCreationTool that it has safeguards to prevent it from overwriting the current OS but are you asking me to run it and is that what you wanted me to do and put it on the DVD+RDL's ? If so, I need to re-order them.

    The idea here, is I want you to have a Windows 10 OS installer *file*
    for when you need it in future. The file will not be available for
    download, past 2025.

    If you have an incident, where you need to reinstall the OS, you need to
    be ready. Windows 10 might be the last OSes these machines see.

    Also, having re-installation as an option, knowing you have the materials,
    may change your mind as to what to do, in some problem-situations.


    I understand the Err_6.4.5.exe but we cannot get to the command prompt except via Macrium and the Rescue CD.

    I still propose we use the Macrium Rescue CD to get to the command prompt and let me finish the Lieutentant Admin Account with a new password which it should accept.

    Terminals are available from the right-click of the Start button.

    You can use the Settings program, to modify what terminal type is offered.
    It may default to Powershell, but you can also change from Powershell to Command Prompt.


    C:
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant  XXXXXX  /ADD C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant TEMP /ADD

    net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD # This looks good

    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD # Don't really need the word TEMP in there



    So I need to fix the error code in the MediaCreationTool first?

    It could be a Windows Update problem.

    Part of the support system for Windows Update, includes BITS.
    BITS and DoSVC are the two downloading systems that Windows Update
    can use. BITS is the older scheme. And MediaCreationTool is using
    BITS for some reason, and that may mean it is calling WGet for the work.
    WGet is a powershell routine, and it calls BITS.

    You see, some day, we'll have OS repair capabilities... if we ever
    get this Windows.iso file :-) Do you see the circular logic I'm
    shielding you from ?

    Switch to a Windows 7 setup if you have to, and use your elevated
    account, to get this job done.

    I watched most of the video,, whew!!!
    OK, it's simplified and as you say I can do my MediaCreationTool on the Admin Account to elevate it but again if I run it where is it going to?

    I also need to switch hd's again for all this.    

    Robert

    You can start by storing the Windows.iso on the HDD you're booted
    from. You can make a copy of it, to at least a second HDD.
    But I also recommend changing the file name Win10-x64-22H2.iso
    so you will know later, what that file is.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 29 11:56:03 2023
    On 12/29/2023 9:53 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/29/2023 2:35 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


          https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    I was reading through the Windows Denfender offline instructions
    and it has to be used on a elevated Admin Account. So we can't do
    it.

    Robert

    You can log into the TEMP account and run it there.

        Paul




    OK, so I do have it right,... then we need to wait
    to do this because they cancelled my order.

    I can't use Amazon because there's a snafu with my
    account and the RAM I tried to buy through them. I
     like jewel boxes, it keeps the disks clean.

    I could try driving to Staples tomorrow see if they
    have some Verbatim 8.5 GB DVD+RDL's and I'll get some
    sd-cards.

    In the meantime we can finish creating my Admin Account.
    for Lieutenant.

    Robert

    There's no rush for this.

    Work on it as time permits.

    Securing the file is one step.

    If optical media was not available, you can put
    boot materials on a USB flash stick. Which is a
    more expensive method than the cost of a single DVD.
    But if some day, optical media is less available out
    there, a USB stick will still work.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Dec 29 12:21:43 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/29/2023 9:53 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/29/2023 2:35 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


          https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    I was reading through the Windows Denfender offline instructions
    and it has to be used on a elevated Admin Account. So we can't do
    it.

    Robert

    You can log into the TEMP account and run it there.

        Paul




    OK, so I do have it right,... then we need to wait
    to do this because they cancelled my order.

    I can't use Amazon because there's a snafu with my
    account and the RAM I tried to buy through them. I
     like jewel boxes, it keeps the disks clean.

    I could try driving to Staples tomorrow see if they
    have some Verbatim 8.5 GB DVD+RDL's and I'll get some
    sd-cards.

    In the meantime we can finish creating my Admin Account.
    for Lieutenant.

    Robert

    There's no rush for this.

    Work on it as time permits.

    Securing the file is one step.

    If optical media was not available, you can put
    boot materials on a USB flash stick. Which is a
    more expensive method than the cost of a single DVD.
    But if some day, optical media is less available out
    there, a USB stick will still work.

    Paul



    I went to Staples, Target and Walmart looking
    for the Verbatim 5.8 DVD+RDL's and none of them
    had any. Only DVD-R's and damn few. They were
    all very under stocked. So I ordered them through
    eBay the same way I bought the RAM. I did
    manage to get two 64 GB SD- Cards.

    When you say to have a Windows 10 installer file
    you mean on the DVD+RDL's correct? That's why you
    want me to run the MediaCreationTool.

    I have the MedicaCreationTool on the Patriot and
    as soon as I get the DVD+RDL's we can start the
    process of running it and downloading it to create
    the Win 10 installer file on Win 7 Admin Account
    so its elevated.

    On the 8500 when I right click the Start button
    it says Properties and Open Windows Explorer

    I thought Powershell was cmd prompt based?

    Is this Powershell?
    C:
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    Of course I will replace the XXXXXX with a
    more secure password so the program will
    accept it this time.

    Let me re-read the Windows Defender
    instructions, and I'll do that.


    Thoughts/suggestions
    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Dec 29 22:22:51 2023
    On 12/29/2023 3:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went to Staples, Target and Walmart looking
    for the Verbatim 5.8 DVD+RDL's and none of them
    had any. Only DVD-R's and damn few. They were
    all very under stocked. So I ordered them through
    eBay the same way I bought the RAM. I did
    manage to get two 64 GB SD- Cards.

    When you say to have a Windows 10 installer file
    you mean on the DVD+RDL's correct? That's why you
    want me to run the MediaCreationTool.

    I have the MedicaCreationTool on the Patriot and
    as soon as I get the DVD+RDL's we can start the
    process of running it and downloading it to create
    the Win 10 installer file on Win 7 Admin Account
    so its elevated.

    On the 8500 when I right click the Start button
    it says Properties and Open Windows Explorer

    I thought Powershell was cmd prompt based?

    Is this Powershell?
    C:
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant  XXXXXX  /ADD C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    Of course I will replace the XXXXXX with a
    more secure password so the program will
    accept it this time.

    Let me re-read the Windows Defender
    instructions, and I'll do that.


    Thoughts/suggestions
    Robert

    A shell, is an environment for running programs.

    The Command Prompt shell, has a few convenience features

    cd /d %userprofile% # Puts you in the Rob home directory
    cd Downloads # Now we're near the error program we downloaded.
    Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The current working directory, is a candidate for executables.
    # The computer looks for Err_6.4.5 in Downloads. Very convenient.
    # The %path% includes the current working directory

    The Powershell shell, does not include the current working directory in the path.
    I'm sure there is a tricksy way of getting to the right place, but
    I don't know it at the moment.

    C:
    cd Users\Rob\Downloads
    .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The .\ helps the computer to look in the current working directory
    # In Powershell window, if you don't put the .\ then there will be gobs
    # of red error text to read.

    The syntax is different. And it's a matter of what you are familiar
    with, as to which shell you might want as a default.

    *******

    You can modify the menu, so the Command Prompt is waiting for you.
    The two flavors (one elevated) are on offer. Of course there
    will be a UAC prompt, which either requires a password or does
    not require a password, when you try to open the elevated one.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/22882-show-command-prompt-windows-powershell-win-x-menu-windows-10-a.html

    In Command Prompt, you can type this to get to Powershell

    powershell.exe

    In Powershell, you can type this to get to Command Prompt

    cmd.exe # I put the EXE on some items, to emphasize these are programs.

    They put them in weird places. You don't have to know this, because the path is already
    wired to pick this up.

    C:\Windows\system32\WindowsPowerShell\v1.0\powershell.exe

    These commands might work in both shells. But occasionally, I try to do something
    like this in Powershell, it silently fails, and I'm left to wonder what it
    was about the syntax that caused a malfunction. That's why I still have
    a bit of a bias to using Command Prompt. Stuff usually works there.
    These commands do not access the current working directory. We don't
    need to CD anywhere, to run these. We could even be in the X: partition for example,
    and these would still run.

    net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    *******

    Just remember this part.

    *Don't* drag-and-drop Windows.iso onto the DVD drive.

    If you use an application like Imgburn, it "converts" the ISO
    file into a bootable DVD.

    MediaCreationTool22H2 has its own converter too. If you make it
    handle the Windows.iso file for you, it can burn write-once
    media. The built-in converter, works less well with re-writeable
    media, and I don't know if Microsoft ever fixed that.

    But I like saving the Windows.iso for later. For example, if you
    are doing a Repair Install, you can right click the ISO and select
    mount. Or, you can go into File Explorer, select an ISO and select "Open",
    and that causes the ISO to mount too. Once mounted, you can run Setup.exe
    off the ISO, and that kicks off a Repair Install. In a Repair Install
    then, you don't need your DVD media, as you can run the install right
    off the ISO file itself.

    It's for Clean Installs, or if you need to do some maintenance (CHKDSK
    when computer is broken), that's when we need some boot media for the job.

    At the current time, the signs are, your OS is not clean. It had the
    foreign account in it, which tells me the OS started life on someone
    elses computer. If you make backup copies of it, if you make emergency
    boot OSes based on it, well, it's history is not clean. We don't really
    know how much malware is on there, if any.

    I'm trying to make sure you have materials on hand, for a *meltdown*. OK ?

    I'm not claiming anything is melted right now. But like having boats to lower on a ship, I want emergency equipment which is ready to use :-)

    I probably have around a terabyte of ISOs on the computers here.
    There are lots of things I can boot or burn, when needed. Much of
    it is junk, but I don't throw it away. by now, I probably have ten or fifteen Windows.iso files, each one with the version recorded in the name. If
    someone says "what was the OS like in 2015", I have the media to check that.

    I'm not making you collect media to be the Smithsonian. I want you
    to have one disc as a "life raft".

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Dec 30 00:31:53 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/29/2023 3:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went to Staples, Target and Walmart looking
    for the Verbatim 5.8 DVD+RDL's and none of them
    had any. Only DVD-R's and damn few. They were
    all very under stocked. So I ordered them through
    eBay the same way I bought the RAM. I did
    manage to get two 64 GB SD- Cards.

    When you say to have a Windows 10 installer file
    you mean on the DVD+RDL's correct? That's why you
    want me to run the MediaCreationTool.

    I have the MedicaCreationTool on the Patriot and
    as soon as I get the DVD+RDL's we can start the
    process of running it and downloading it to create
    the Win 10 installer file on Win 7 Admin Account
    so its elevated.

    On the 8500 when I right click the Start button
    it says Properties and Open Windows Explorer

    I thought Powershell was cmd prompt based?

    Is this Powershell?
    C:
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant  XXXXXX  /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    Of course I will replace the XXXXXX with a
    more secure password so the program will
    accept it this time.

    Let me re-read the Windows Defender
    instructions, and I'll do that.


    Thoughts/suggestions
    Robert

    A shell, is an environment for running programs.

    The Command Prompt shell, has a few convenience features

    cd /d %userprofile% # Puts you in the Rob home directory
    cd Downloads # Now we're near the error program we downloaded.
    Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The current working directory, is a candidate for executables.
    # The computer looks for Err_6.4.5 in Downloads. Very convenient.
    # The %path% includes the current working directory

    The Powershell shell, does not include the current working directory in the path.
    I'm sure there is a tricksy way of getting to the right place, but
    I don't know it at the moment.

    C:
    cd Users\Rob\Downloads
    .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The .\ helps the computer to look in the current working directory
    # In Powershell window, if you don't put the .\ then there will be gobs
    # of red error text to read.

    The syntax is different. And it's a matter of what you are familiar
    with, as to which shell you might want as a default.

    *******

    You can modify the menu, so the Command Prompt is waiting for you.
    The two flavors (one elevated) are on offer. Of course there
    will be a UAC prompt, which either requires a password or does
    not require a password, when you try to open the elevated one.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/22882-show-command-prompt-windows-powershell-win-x-menu-windows-10-a.html

    In Command Prompt, you can type this to get to Powershell

    powershell.exe

    In Powershell, you can type this to get to Command Prompt

    cmd.exe # I put the EXE on some items, to emphasize these are programs.

    They put them in weird places. You don't have to know this, because the path is already
    wired to pick this up.

    C:\Windows\system32\WindowsPowerShell\v1.0\powershell.exe

    These commands might work in both shells. But occasionally, I try to do something
    like this in Powershell, it silently fails, and I'm left to wonder what it was about the syntax that caused a malfunction. That's why I still have
    a bit of a bias to using Command Prompt. Stuff usually works there.
    These commands do not access the current working directory. We don't
    need to CD anywhere, to run these. We could even be in the X: partition for example,
    and these would still run.

    net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    *******

    Just remember this part.

    *Don't* drag-and-drop Windows.iso onto the DVD drive.

    If you use an application like Imgburn, it "converts" the ISO
    file into a bootable DVD.

    MediaCreationTool22H2 has its own converter too. If you make it
    handle the Windows.iso file for you, it can burn write-once
    media. The built-in converter, works less well with re-writeable
    media, and I don't know if Microsoft ever fixed that.

    But I like saving the Windows.iso for later. For example, if you
    are doing a Repair Install, you can right click the ISO and select
    mount. Or, you can go into File Explorer, select an ISO and select "Open", and that causes the ISO to mount too. Once mounted, you can run Setup.exe
    off the ISO, and that kicks off a Repair Install. In a Repair Install
    then, you don't need your DVD media, as you can run the install right
    off the ISO file itself.

    It's for Clean Installs, or if you need to do some maintenance (CHKDSK
    when computer is broken), that's when we need some boot media for the job.

    At the current time, the signs are, your OS is not clean. It had the
    foreign account in it, which tells me the OS started life on someone
    elses computer. If you make backup copies of it, if you make emergency
    boot OSes based on it, well, it's history is not clean. We don't really
    know how much malware is on there, if any.

    I'm trying to make sure you have materials on hand, for a *meltdown*. OK ?

    I'm not claiming anything is melted right now. But like having boats to lower on a ship, I want emergency equipment which is ready to use :-)

    I probably have around a terabyte of ISOs on the computers here.
    There are lots of things I can boot or burn, when needed. Much of
    it is junk, but I don't throw it away. by now, I probably have ten or fifteen Windows.iso files, each one with the version recorded in the name. If
    someone says "what was the OS like in 2015", I have the media to check that.

    I'm not making you collect media to be the Smithsonian. I want you
    to have one disc as a "life raft".

    Paul




    I just realized I should of entered both lines for it to work.

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    Is this correct?


    Robert


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Dec 30 00:37:30 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/29/2023 3:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went to Staples, Target and Walmart looking
    for the Verbatim 5.8 DVD+RDL's and none of them
    had any. Only DVD-R's and damn few. They were
    all very under stocked. So I ordered them through
    eBay the same way I bought the RAM. I did
    manage to get two 64 GB SD- Cards.

    When you say to have a Windows 10 installer file
    you mean on the DVD+RDL's correct? That's why you
    want me to run the MediaCreationTool.

    I have the MedicaCreationTool on the Patriot and
    as soon as I get the DVD+RDL's we can start the
    process of running it and downloading it to create
    the Win 10 installer file on Win 7 Admin Account
    so its elevated.

    On the 8500 when I right click the Start button
    it says Properties and Open Windows Explorer

    I thought Powershell was cmd prompt based?

    Is this Powershell?
    C:
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant  XXXXXX  /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    Of course I will replace the XXXXXX with a
    more secure password so the program will
    accept it this time.

    Let me re-read the Windows Defender
    instructions, and I'll do that.


    Thoughts/suggestions
    Robert

    A shell, is an environment for running programs.

    The Command Prompt shell, has a few convenience features

    cd /d %userprofile% # Puts you in the Rob home directory
    cd Downloads # Now we're near the error program we downloaded.
    Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The current working directory, is a candidate for executables.
    # The computer looks for Err_6.4.5 in Downloads. Very convenient.
    # The %path% includes the current working directory

    The Powershell shell, does not include the current working directory in the path.
    I'm sure there is a tricksy way of getting to the right place, but
    I don't know it at the moment.

    C:
    cd Users\Rob\Downloads
    .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The .\ helps the computer to look in the current working directory
    # In Powershell window, if you don't put the .\ then there will be gobs
    # of red error text to read.

    The syntax is different. And it's a matter of what you are familiar
    with, as to which shell you might want as a default.

    *******

    You can modify the menu, so the Command Prompt is waiting for you.
    The two flavors (one elevated) are on offer. Of course there
    will be a UAC prompt, which either requires a password or does
    not require a password, when you try to open the elevated one.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/22882-show-command-prompt-windows-powershell-win-x-menu-windows-10-a.html

    In Command Prompt, you can type this to get to Powershell

    powershell.exe

    In Powershell, you can type this to get to Command Prompt

    cmd.exe # I put the EXE on some items, to emphasize these are programs.

    They put them in weird places. You don't have to know this, because the path is already
    wired to pick this up.

    C:\Windows\system32\WindowsPowerShell\v1.0\powershell.exe

    These commands might work in both shells. But occasionally, I try to do something
    like this in Powershell, it silently fails, and I'm left to wonder what it was about the syntax that caused a malfunction. That's why I still have
    a bit of a bias to using Command Prompt. Stuff usually works there.
    These commands do not access the current working directory. We don't
    need to CD anywhere, to run these. We could even be in the X: partition for example,
    and these would still run.

    net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    *******

    Just remember this part.

    *Don't* drag-and-drop Windows.iso onto the DVD drive.

    If you use an application like Imgburn, it "converts" the ISO
    file into a bootable DVD.

    MediaCreationTool22H2 has its own converter too. If you make it
    handle the Windows.iso file for you, it can burn write-once
    media. The built-in converter, works less well with re-writeable
    media, and I don't know if Microsoft ever fixed that.

    But I like saving the Windows.iso for later. For example, if you
    are doing a Repair Install, you can right click the ISO and select
    mount. Or, you can go into File Explorer, select an ISO and select "Open", and that causes the ISO to mount too. Once mounted, you can run Setup.exe
    off the ISO, and that kicks off a Repair Install. In a Repair Install
    then, you don't need your DVD media, as you can run the install right
    off the ISO file itself.

    It's for Clean Installs, or if you need to do some maintenance (CHKDSK
    when computer is broken), that's when we need some boot media for the job.

    At the current time, the signs are, your OS is not clean. It had the
    foreign account in it, which tells me the OS started life on someone
    elses computer. If you make backup copies of it, if you make emergency
    boot OSes based on it, well, it's history is not clean. We don't really
    know how much malware is on there, if any.

    I'm trying to make sure you have materials on hand, for a *meltdown*. OK ?

    I'm not claiming anything is melted right now. But like having boats to lower on a ship, I want emergency equipment which is ready to use :-)

    I probably have around a terabyte of ISOs on the computers here.
    There are lots of things I can boot or burn, when needed. Much of
    it is junk, but I don't throw it away. by now, I probably have ten or fifteen Windows.iso files, each one with the version recorded in the name. If
    someone says "what was the OS like in 2015", I have the media to check that.

    I'm not making you collect media to be the Smithsonian. I want you
    to have one disc as a "life raft".

    Paul

    My mistake, I have PE10 on the SD-card.

    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Dec 30 00:26:46 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/29/2023 3:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went to Staples, Target and Walmart looking
    for the Verbatim 5.8 DVD+RDL's and none of them
    had any. Only DVD-R's and damn few. They were
    all very under stocked. So I ordered them through
    eBay the same way I bought the RAM. I did
    manage to get two 64 GB SD- Cards.

    When you say to have a Windows 10 installer file
    you mean on the DVD+RDL's correct? That's why you
    want me to run the MediaCreationTool.

    I have the MedicaCreationTool on the Patriot and
    as soon as I get the DVD+RDL's we can start the
    process of running it and downloading it to create
    the Win 10 installer file on Win 7 Admin Account
    so its elevated.

    On the 8500 when I right click the Start button
    it says Properties and Open Windows Explorer

    I thought Powershell was cmd prompt based?

    Is this Powershell?
    C:
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant  XXXXXX  /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    Of course I will replace the XXXXXX with a
    more secure password so the program will
    accept it this time.

    Let me re-read the Windows Defender
    instructions, and I'll do that.


    Thoughts/suggestions
    Robert

    A shell, is an environment for running programs.

    The Command Prompt shell, has a few convenience features

    cd /d %userprofile% # Puts you in the Rob home directory
    cd Downloads # Now we're near the error program we downloaded.
    Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The current working directory, is a candidate for executables.
    # The computer looks for Err_6.4.5 in Downloads. Very convenient.
    # The %path% includes the current working directory

    The Powershell shell, does not include the current working directory in the path.
    I'm sure there is a tricksy way of getting to the right place, but
    I don't know it at the moment.

    C:
    cd Users\Rob\Downloads
    .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The .\ helps the computer to look in the current working directory
    # In Powershell window, if you don't put the .\ then there will be gobs
    # of red error text to read.

    The syntax is different. And it's a matter of what you are familiar
    with, as to which shell you might want as a default.

    *******

    You can modify the menu, so the Command Prompt is waiting for you.
    The two flavors (one elevated) are on offer. Of course there
    will be a UAC prompt, which either requires a password or does
    not require a password, when you try to open the elevated one.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/22882-show-command-prompt-windows-powershell-win-x-menu-windows-10-a.html

    In Command Prompt, you can type this to get to Powershell

    powershell.exe

    In Powershell, you can type this to get to Command Prompt

    cmd.exe # I put the EXE on some items, to emphasize these are programs.

    They put them in weird places. You don't have to know this, because the path is already
    wired to pick this up.

    C:\Windows\system32\WindowsPowerShell\v1.0\powershell.exe

    These commands might work in both shells. But occasionally, I try to do something
    like this in Powershell, it silently fails, and I'm left to wonder what it was about the syntax that caused a malfunction. That's why I still have
    a bit of a bias to using Command Prompt. Stuff usually works there.
    These commands do not access the current working directory. We don't
    need to CD anywhere, to run these. We could even be in the X: partition for example,
    and these would still run.

    net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    *******

    Just remember this part.

    *Don't* drag-and-drop Windows.iso onto the DVD drive.

    If you use an application like Imgburn, it "converts" the ISO
    file into a bootable DVD.

    MediaCreationTool22H2 has its own converter too. If you make it
    handle the Windows.iso file for you, it can burn write-once
    media. The built-in converter, works less well with re-writeable
    media, and I don't know if Microsoft ever fixed that.

    But I like saving the Windows.iso for later. For example, if you
    are doing a Repair Install, you can right click the ISO and select
    mount. Or, you can go into File Explorer, select an ISO and select "Open", and that causes the ISO to mount too. Once mounted, you can run Setup.exe
    off the ISO, and that kicks off a Repair Install. In a Repair Install
    then, you don't need your DVD media, as you can run the install right
    off the ISO file itself.

    It's for Clean Installs, or if you need to do some maintenance (CHKDSK
    when computer is broken), that's when we need some boot media for the job.

    At the current time, the signs are, your OS is not clean. It had the
    foreign account in it, which tells me the OS started life on someone
    elses computer. If you make backup copies of it, if you make emergency
    boot OSes based on it, well, it's history is not clean. We don't really
    know how much malware is on there, if any.

    I'm trying to make sure you have materials on hand, for a *meltdown*. OK ?

    I'm not claiming anything is melted right now. But like having boats to lower on a ship, I want emergency equipment which is ready to use :-)

    I probably have around a terabyte of ISOs on the computers here.
    There are lots of things I can boot or burn, when needed. Much of
    it is junk, but I don't throw it away. by now, I probably have ten or fifteen Windows.iso files, each one with the version recorded in the name. If
    someone says "what was the OS like in 2015", I have the media to check that.

    I'm not making you collect media to be the Smithsonian. I want you
    to have one disc as a "life raft".

    Paul



    I switched hd's in the 780 and now Win 10 is back in. I used the macrium
    Rescue CD to enter the command:

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant XXXXX /ADD

    with the password replacing the XXXXX's and was successful. However it
    didn't show up after I restarted. Just the 2 Rob's and Temp Accounts.

    https://postimg.cc/4KB2PnsN

    https://postimg.cc/K1b9ytY8

    I noticed it was at C:\\Windows\system32> when I clicked the cmd prompt
    not C:\\ so how do I get it back?

    Can I run the Err_6.4.5.exe via macrium?

    I followed your link and changed Win10 so I have the command prompt
    options now instead of Windows Powershell. I'm still trying to wrap my head around it. So the command prompt and Windows Powershell are essentially the same thing but have different commands to execute programs?

    I'm reading through your posts,... whew,.allot to comprehend,..I'm
    trying to follow
    along.

    If I remember correctly, the 780 was a computer supposedly used at a bank.
    and I do run all the scans constantly on both computers,...I do have Win
    10 ISO on the SD-Card that I used with the USB Adaptor.

    I understand where were going with all this and I appreciate it.

    I'll switched the hd's again when I do the mrimgs.

    I'll re-read your Windows Defender instructions,...

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Dec 30 01:17:53 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/29/2023 3:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went to Staples, Target and Walmart looking
    for the Verbatim 5.8 DVD+RDL's and none of them
    had any. Only DVD-R's and damn few. They were
    all very under stocked. So I ordered them through
    eBay the same way I bought the RAM. I did
    manage to get two 64 GB SD- Cards.

    When you say to have a Windows 10 installer file
    you mean on the DVD+RDL's correct? That's why you
    want me to run the MediaCreationTool.

    I have the MedicaCreationTool on the Patriot and
    as soon as I get the DVD+RDL's we can start the
    process of running it and downloading it to create
    the Win 10 installer file on Win 7 Admin Account
    so its elevated.

    On the 8500 when I right click the Start button
    it says Properties and Open Windows Explorer

    I thought Powershell was cmd prompt based?

    Is this Powershell?
    C:
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant  XXXXXX  /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    Of course I will replace the XXXXXX with a
    more secure password so the program will
    accept it this time.

    Let me re-read the Windows Defender
    instructions, and I'll do that.


    Thoughts/suggestions
    Robert

    A shell, is an environment for running programs.

    The Command Prompt shell, has a few convenience features

    cd /d %userprofile% # Puts you in the Rob home directory
    cd Downloads # Now we're near the error program we downloaded.
    Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The current working directory, is a candidate for executables.
    # The computer looks for Err_6.4.5 in Downloads. Very convenient.
    # The %path% includes the current working directory

    The Powershell shell, does not include the current working directory in the path.
    I'm sure there is a tricksy way of getting to the right place, but
    I don't know it at the moment.

    C:
    cd Users\Rob\Downloads
    .\Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # The .\ helps the computer to look in the current working directory
    # In Powershell window, if you don't put the .\ then there will be gobs
    # of red error text to read.

    The syntax is different. And it's a matter of what you are familiar
    with, as to which shell you might want as a default.

    *******

    You can modify the menu, so the Command Prompt is waiting for you.
    The two flavors (one elevated) are on offer. Of course there
    will be a UAC prompt, which either requires a password or does
    not require a password, when you try to open the elevated one.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/22882-show-command-prompt-windows-powershell-win-x-menu-windows-10-a.html

    In Command Prompt, you can type this to get to Powershell

    powershell.exe

    In Powershell, you can type this to get to Command Prompt

    cmd.exe # I put the EXE on some items, to emphasize these are programs.

    They put them in weird places. You don't have to know this, because the path is already
    wired to pick this up.

    C:\Windows\system32\WindowsPowerShell\v1.0\powershell.exe

    These commands might work in both shells. But occasionally, I try to do something
    like this in Powershell, it silently fails, and I'm left to wonder what it was about the syntax that caused a malfunction. That's why I still have
    a bit of a bias to using Command Prompt. Stuff usually works there.
    These commands do not access the current working directory. We don't
    need to CD anywhere, to run these. We could even be in the X: partition for example,
    and these would still run.

    net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    *******

    Just remember this part.

    *Don't* drag-and-drop Windows.iso onto the DVD drive.

    If you use an application like Imgburn, it "converts" the ISO
    file into a bootable DVD.

    MediaCreationTool22H2 has its own converter too. If you make it
    handle the Windows.iso file for you, it can burn write-once
    media. The built-in converter, works less well with re-writeable
    media, and I don't know if Microsoft ever fixed that.

    But I like saving the Windows.iso for later. For example, if you
    are doing a Repair Install, you can right click the ISO and select
    mount. Or, you can go into File Explorer, select an ISO and select "Open", and that causes the ISO to mount too. Once mounted, you can run Setup.exe
    off the ISO, and that kicks off a Repair Install. In a Repair Install
    then, you don't need your DVD media, as you can run the install right
    off the ISO file itself.

    It's for Clean Installs, or if you need to do some maintenance (CHKDSK
    when computer is broken), that's when we need some boot media for the job.

    At the current time, the signs are, your OS is not clean. It had the
    foreign account in it, which tells me the OS started life on someone
    elses computer. If you make backup copies of it, if you make emergency
    boot OSes based on it, well, it's history is not clean. We don't really
    know how much malware is on there, if any.

    I'm trying to make sure you have materials on hand, for a *meltdown*. OK ?

    I'm not claiming anything is melted right now. But like having boats to lower on a ship, I want emergency equipment which is ready to use :-)

    I probably have around a terabyte of ISOs on the computers here.
    There are lots of things I can boot or burn, when needed. Much of
    it is junk, but I don't throw it away. by now, I probably have ten or fifteen Windows.iso files, each one with the version recorded in the name. If
    someone says "what was the OS like in 2015", I have the media to check that.

    I'm not making you collect media to be the Smithsonian. I want you
    to have one disc as a "life raft".

    Paul



    I tried to do the troubleshooting on Win 10 but my
    Control Panel looks allot different than yours and
    there's no Troubleshooting.

    https://postimg.cc/MM7Q83Ks

    I started reading the offline Windows Defender(Microsoft Defender)
    scan and it sure is involved. I tried to follow the file path to start it C:\Windows\MicrosoftAntimalware\Support but I don't have
    a Antimalware folder/file that I can see.


    https://postimg.cc/WDGJrfLM

    I'm not following the instructions at all or the elevated Powershell.
    I already am logged in the Admin Account. Also, I did not see a D:ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows Defender\Offline Scanner
    at the top of the page on the example.

    This is all very confusing and they are talking about an elevated
    command prompt when we can't get the C: back from C:\\User Temp.

    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Dec 30 06:27:35 2023
    On 12/30/2023 3:26 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I switched hd's in the 780 and now Win 10 is back in. I used the macrium Rescue CD to enter the command:

     C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant  XXXXX  /ADD

    with  the password replacing the XXXXX's and was successful. However it didn't show up after I restarted. Just the 2 Rob's and Temp Accounts.

    When the Macrium CD is running, the "operating system" is X: .

    Your command added entries to the X: partition. When the computer
    is shut down, the X: no longer exists, and your work is lost.



    https://postimg.cc/4KB2PnsN # Stored in X: , not in C: , command does not use the file path to complete itself

    https://postimg.cc/K1b9ytY8 # Password must be corrected in the netplwiz entry, to reduce the two Robs to one Rob.

    I noticed it was at C:\\Windows\system32> when I clicked the cmd prompt
    not C:\\ so how do I get it back?

    cd \ # Reduce current working directory to just the drive letter.


    Can I run the Err_6.4.5.exe via macrium?

    Yes. It is a simple-minded lookup application that does not rely
    upon %path%, %cwd%, or anything else. It just works. You need to CD
    to where the executable is stored, of course. It might be on the C: drive
    for example.

    C: # Change from X: to C:

    cd \ # Remove the "Stuff" after C:

    cd Users\Rob\Downloads # Build the path to the executable, so the loader can find it.

    Err_6.4.5.exe 0xC0000005 # A common error code, we are looking up


    I followed your link and changed Win10 so I have the command prompt
    options now instead of Windows Powershell. I'm still trying to wrap my head around it. So the command prompt and Windows Powershell are essentially the same thing but have different commands to execute programs?

    They are different shells, with different annoying habits.


    I'm reading through your posts,... whew,.allot to comprehend,..I'm trying to follow
    along.

    If I remember correctly, the 780 was a computer supposedly used at a bank. and I do run all the scans constantly on both computers,...I do have Win 10 ISO on the SD-Card that I used with the USB Adaptor.

    I understand where were going with all this and I appreciate it.

    I'll switched the hd's again when I do the mrimgs.

    I'll re-read your Windows Defender instructions,...

    Robert

    Yes, eventually we will return to the Defender Offline Scan.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Dec 30 06:41:57 2023
    On 12/30/2023 3:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I just realized I should of entered both lines for it to work.

    net user Lieutenant  XXXXXX  /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    Is this correct?

    If you do it from Macrium CD, the password change and the elevation change,
    are stored in the (transient) X: partition that Macrium uses as an OS.

    This does not serve a useful purpose for us.

    *******

    *If* the commands had an "offline mode", we could have fixed this.
    But, for commands that are only intended to be set while the
    real OS is running, we cannot expect to bodge the thing when C:
    is not running.

    You could - go to the menu while the Win10 regular OS is running,
    start the Administrator Command Prompt from there.

    When prompted, enter the password for the TEMP account (because the
    UAC will be asking you to use TEMP now). Which you have written down, so
    as to not lose control of the machine. Now, we have an elevated Command Prompt, and when these commands execute, they change the state of our C: partition.

    net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    If, for example, the information was stored in the Registry, we could
    use an offline registry editor, to make the changes without using the command.

    However, these commands are "powerful", and they can be doing a little work
    or a lot of work for us.

    We could even use the hack on the Win10 partition, press the shift key five times, and if an administrator pops up there, issue the two commands. But
    that is unlikely to work, without Safe Mode. Or so I'm told. It used to
    work without Safe Mode being one of the ingredients.

    This is why I warn about attempts to change the account-name of an account.
    The reason you cannot do that, is only Microsoft has a list of all the
    places where the name must change. It could be a hundred places. And
    a human could never get every one of them. Some of them are disguised
    with GUIDs and other crap. Once you start installing programs for example,
    it's possible your name is part of a path stored in the program installation section. Even the way your name is stored can vary, some places it is "Rob", other places it is "R o b ". This is why humans doing it manually, is
    a non-starter. Too much work.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Dec 30 07:06:26 2023
    On 12/30/2023 4:17 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I tried to do the troubleshooting on Win 10 but my
    Control Panel looks allot different than yours and
    there's no Troubleshooting.

    https://postimg.cc/MM7Q83Ks

    This could be a side-effect of using the un-elevated Rob account.

    You might want to bookmark this one.

    https://www.thewindowsclub.com/how-to-run-a-troubleshooter-from-the-command-line-in-windows-10

    # Administrator (elevated) shell of some sort

    msdt.exe /id WindowsUpdateDiagnostic # The article has the names in the list near the bottom.


    I started reading the offline Windows Defender(Microsoft Defender)
    scan and it sure is involved. I tried to follow the file path to start it C:\Windows\MicrosoftAntimalware\Support but I don't have
    a Antimalware folder/file that I can see.

    Would that have been some Windows 7 era info ?

    https://postimg.cc/WDGJrfLM

    I'm not following the instructions at all or the elevated Powershell.
    I already am logged in the Admin Account. Also, I did not see a D:ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows Defender\Offline Scanner
    at the top of the page on the example.

    This is all very confusing and they are talking about an elevated
    command prompt when we can't get the C: back from C:\\User Temp.

    The curse of it is, back in Windows 7 era, you just downloaded an ISO
    and made a scanner CD for the job. All this GUI-method has done is
    made a nuisance for users.

    This article, tells us which file(s) have our results, after the scan is finished.
    That's why this article has value.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    # This is the procedure. It's in the blue-ball security interface, blue-ball hiding in the Caret on the Taskbar

    https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/284639d1592839239-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a-microsoft_defender_offline_scan-3.png

    The Microsoft article has the same picture and steps. if you view the page on a Windows 10 setup.
    The instructions on finding the scan results are not all that easy.
    (The instructions for Windows 7 are at the bottom of the page, in a drop-down menu)

    https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/help-protect-my-pc-with-microsoft-defender-offline-9306d528-64bf-4668-5b80-ff533f183d6c

    https://support.content.office.net/en-us/media/ca22c8e5-7b8d-63c1-00cb-62ed2c80f51f.png # Not-colorful picture

    The basic operation then, is pretty easy... once you get the blue-ball Security window open.
    And the Microsoft recipe has you do that, starting from Settings.

    It's where they hid it, that doesn't make it easy. The actual two-button-clicks are easy.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Dec 30 03:44:00 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 3:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I just realized I should of entered both lines for it to work.

    net user Lieutenant  XXXXXX  /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    Is this correct?

    If you do it from Macrium CD, the password change and the elevation change, are stored in the (transient) X: partition that Macrium uses as an OS.

    This does not serve a useful purpose for us.

    *******

    *If* the commands had an "offline mode", we could have fixed this.
    But, for commands that are only intended to be set while the
    real OS is running, we cannot expect to bodge the thing when C:
    is not running.

    You could - go to the menu while the Win10 regular OS is running,
    start the Administrator Command Prompt from there.

    When prompted, enter the password for the TEMP account (because the
    UAC will be asking you to use TEMP now). Which you have written down, so
    as to not lose control of the machine. Now, we have an elevated Command Prompt,
    and when these commands execute, they change the state of our C: partition.

    net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    If, for example, the information was stored in the Registry, we could
    use an offline registry editor, to make the changes without using the command.

    However, these commands are "powerful", and they can be doing a little work or a lot of work for us.

    We could even use the hack on the Win10 partition, press the shift key five times, and if an administrator pops up there, issue the two commands. But that is unlikely to work, without Safe Mode. Or so I'm told. It used to
    work without Safe Mode being one of the ingredients.

    This is why I warn about attempts to change the account-name of an account. The reason you cannot do that, is only Microsoft has a list of all the
    places where the name must change. It could be a hundred places. And
    a human could never get every one of them. Some of them are disguised
    with GUIDs and other crap. Once you start installing programs for example, it's possible your name is part of a path stored in the program installation section. Even the way your name is stored can vary, some places it is "Rob", other places it is "R o b ". This is why humans doing it manually, is
    a non-starter. Too much work.

    Paul



    I went back and used the Macrium Rescue CD to
    gain access to the cmd prompt and entered the
    last string :

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    https://postimg.cc/CdCHWgJp

    but when I rebooted the 780 it didn't show the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's still the 2 Rob's
    and TEMP Accounts.

    https://postimg.cc/5XrwwN9L

    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Dec 30 07:11:17 2023
    On 12/30/2023 6:44 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went back and used the Macrium Rescue CD to
    gain access to the cmd prompt and entered the
    last string :

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    https://postimg.cc/CdCHWgJp

    but when I rebooted the 780 it didn't show the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's still the 2 Rob's
    and TEMP Accounts.

    https://postimg.cc/5XrwwN9L

    Robert

    You have to do this, from the Windows 10 C: OS.

    Log in as TEMP, enter the TEMP password.

    Open an Administrator window. Enter the commands. Done.

    net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    You don't even need to alter the path to do those.
    Just needs an administrator window.

    If the powershell window is the administrator terminal,
    you can type this to switch to Command Prompt shell

    # If you were in Powershell at the time...

    cmd.exe

    net user Lieutenant XXXXXX /ADD
    net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Dec 30 04:24:40 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 4:17 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I tried to do the troubleshooting on Win 10 but my
    Control Panel looks allot different than yours and
    there's no Troubleshooting.

    https://postimg.cc/MM7Q83Ks

    This could be a side-effect of using the un-elevated Rob account.

    You might want to bookmark this one.

    https://www.thewindowsclub.com/how-to-run-a-troubleshooter-from-the-command-line-in-windows-10

    # Administrator (elevated) shell of some sort

    msdt.exe /id WindowsUpdateDiagnostic # The article has the names in the list near the bottom.


    I started reading the offline Windows Defender(Microsoft Defender)
    scan and it sure is involved. I tried to follow the file path to start it
    C:\Windows\MicrosoftAntimalware\Support but I don't have
    a Antimalware folder/file that I can see.

    Would that have been some Windows 7 era info ?

    https://postimg.cc/WDGJrfLM

    I'm not following the instructions at all or the elevated Powershell.
    I already am logged in the Admin Account. Also, I did not see a
    D:ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows Defender\Offline Scanner
    at the top of the page on the example.

    This is all very confusing and they are talking about an elevated
    command prompt when we can't get the C: back from C:\\User Temp.

    The curse of it is, back in Windows 7 era, you just downloaded an ISO
    and made a scanner CD for the job. All this GUI-method has done is
    made a nuisance for users.

    This article, tells us which file(s) have our results, after the scan is finished.
    That's why this article has value.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    # This is the procedure. It's in the blue-ball security interface, blue-ball hiding in the Caret on the Taskbar

    https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/284639d1592839239-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a-microsoft_defender_offline_scan-3.png

    The Microsoft article has the same picture and steps. if you view the page on a Windows 10 setup.
    The instructions on finding the scan results are not all that easy.
    (The instructions for Windows 7 are at the bottom of the page, in a drop-down menu)

    https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/help-protect-my-pc-with-microsoft-defender-offline-9306d528-64bf-4668-5b80-ff533f183d6c

    https://support.content.office.net/en-us/media/ca22c8e5-7b8d-63c1-00cb-62ed2c80f51f.png # Not-colorful picture

    The basic operation then, is pretty easy... once you get the blue-ball Security window open.
    And the Microsoft recipe has you do that, starting from Settings.

    It's where they hid it, that doesn't make it easy. The actual two-button-clicks are easy.

    Paul



    I got it to switch from X to C:

    https://postimg.cc/642pdwMb
    then tried the commands

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant ae0r6ym /ADD
    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    and got this:

    https://postimg.cc/v10YkDjS

    https://postimg.cc/5jhxZh71

    DO I need to start the entire process over?

    I also tried to run the Err

    https://postimg.cc/S2whb9GV

    https://postimg.cc/Xp4PGxXd

    https://postimg.cc/342LWDTt

    Robert



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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Dec 30 04:50:32 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 4:17 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I tried to do the troubleshooting on Win 10 but my
    Control Panel looks allot different than yours and
    there's no Troubleshooting.

    https://postimg.cc/MM7Q83Ks

    This could be a side-effect of using the un-elevated Rob account.

    You might want to bookmark this one.

    https://www.thewindowsclub.com/how-to-run-a-troubleshooter-from-the-command-line-in-windows-10

    # Administrator (elevated) shell of some sort

    msdt.exe /id WindowsUpdateDiagnostic # The article has the names in the list near the bottom.


    I started reading the offline Windows Defender(Microsoft Defender)
    scan and it sure is involved. I tried to follow the file path to start it
    C:\Windows\MicrosoftAntimalware\Support but I don't have
    a Antimalware folder/file that I can see.

    Would that have been some Windows 7 era info ?

    https://postimg.cc/WDGJrfLM

    I'm not following the instructions at all or the elevated Powershell.
    I already am logged in the Admin Account. Also, I did not see a
    D:ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows Defender\Offline Scanner
    at the top of the page on the example.

    This is all very confusing and they are talking about an elevated
    command prompt when we can't get the C: back from C:\\User Temp.

    The curse of it is, back in Windows 7 era, you just downloaded an ISO
    and made a scanner CD for the job. All this GUI-method has done is
    made a nuisance for users.

    This article, tells us which file(s) have our results, after the scan is finished.
    That's why this article has value.

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/42305-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a.html

    # This is the procedure. It's in the blue-ball security interface, blue-ball hiding in the Caret on the Taskbar

    https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/284639d1592839239-how-run-microsoft-defender-offline-scan-windows-10-a-microsoft_defender_offline_scan-3.png

    The Microsoft article has the same picture and steps. if you view the page on a Windows 10 setup.
    The instructions on finding the scan results are not all that easy.
    (The instructions for Windows 7 are at the bottom of the page, in a drop-down menu)

    https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/help-protect-my-pc-with-microsoft-defender-offline-9306d528-64bf-4668-5b80-ff533f183d6c

    https://support.content.office.net/en-us/media/ca22c8e5-7b8d-63c1-00cb-62ed2c80f51f.png # Not-colorful picture

    The basic operation then, is pretty easy... once you get the blue-ball Security window open.
    And the Microsoft recipe has you do that, starting from Settings.

    It's where they hid it, that doesn't make it easy. The actual two-button-clicks are easy.

    Paul


    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Dec 30 08:53:14 2023
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Dec 30 08:50:00 2023
    On 12/30/2023 7:24 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I got it to switch from X to C:

    https://postimg.cc/642pdwMb
    then tried the commands

    C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net user Lieutenant  aaaaaaa  /ADD C:\\WINDOWS\system32> net LOCALGROUP Administrators Lieutenant /ADD

    and got this:

    https://postimg.cc/v10YkDjS # dotNet dependency

    https://postimg.cc/5jhxZh71 # Looks like the shell isn't prime materials (could be an x64 CD)

    DO I need to start the entire process over?

    I also tried to run the Err

    https://postimg.cc/S2whb9GV # This is definitely a missing SysWOW on x64 CD. Program works, on 32-bit Macrium CD

    https://postimg.cc/Xp4PGxXd # This is definitely a missing SysWOW on x64 CD. Program works, on 32-bit Macrium CD

    https://postimg.cc/342LWDTt # What's nice, is I cannot even tell the CDs apart from the command line.
    # The 64-bit should have Program Files and Program Files (x86).

    https://i.postimg.cc/yxNY9X3q/4.jpg

    $ file Err_6.4.5.exe

    Err_6.4.5.exe: PE32 executable (console) Intel 80386, for MS Windows

    It's a 32-bit executable. it uses nothing special.

    Imports
    ntdll.dll
    KERNEL32.dll
    msvcrt.dll

    What might be missing on a WinPE, is SysWOW. A 64-bit WinPE might be missing SysWOW so 32-bit executables can run. The description here is *wrong*.

    https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=100432

    "The Error Lookup tool runs on any supported Windows operating system.
    There is one version availble for download, which runs on 32-bit and 64-bit Windows: - Err_6.4.5.exe
    "

    Well, it won't run if an environment lacks SysWOW (Windows On Windows). it needs
    a 64-bit version to run on a 64-bit WinPE (they don't offer one for download). And I got the same error you got, when I ran the (obviously) 32-bit program
    on the 64-bit WinPE. Remember that a Windpws Preinstall Environment, lacks the subsystems of a real OS (no BITS either).

    It's a bit like Safe Mode in a way, some stuff just won't work.

    OK, now I switch to my 32-bit Macrium CD, and boot with that instead
    of the 64-bit USB stick. And redo the test. And it works.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Dec 30 12:23:59 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

    Paul



    You're the wizard,.. I'm just trying to comprehend
    and keep up with your good help.

    I tried running the Err_6.4.5. exe


    https://postimg.cc/BPvK78nN

    https://postimg.cc/hXm7YRKF

    Robert




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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Dec 30 15:55:00 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

    Paul



    I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
    Admin Account and the Err command but still lots to do
    and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
    we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
    Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
    we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
    yesterday *L*

    I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
    it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
    Prompt while I was there.

    I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
    a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
    probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
    happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
    something like that to avoid conflicts.

    We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.



    Robert






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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 31 00:55:48 2023
    On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

        Paul



    I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
    Admin Account and the Err  command but still lots to do
    and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
    we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
    Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
    we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
    yesterday *L*

    I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
    it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
    Prompt while I was there.

    I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
    a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
    probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
    happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
    something like that to avoid conflicts.

    We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.

    Robert

    If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
    actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.

    I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
    do the installation, later.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 31 00:52:46 2023
    On 12/30/2023 3:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

        Paul



    You're the wizard,.. I'm just trying to comprehend
    and keep up with your good help.

    I tried running the Err_6.4.5. exe


    https://postimg.cc/BPvK78nN

    https://postimg.cc/hXm7YRKF

    Robert

    So that one would be "Status Access Violation".

    If your program suffered such a fault, you'd check
    the permission on the file it was attempting to access.

    Usually when reading the output from the program,
    most of the possibilities are too far fetched, and
    that is how you tend to narrow them down. If the name
    of the header file on the right, has nothing to do with
    your program, that helps exclude most of them too.
    ntstatus.h would be a legit source of such a common error.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 31 00:05:26 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

        Paul



    I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
    Admin Account and the Err  command but still lots to do
    and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
    we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
    Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
    we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
    yesterday *L*

    I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
    it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
    Prompt while I was there.

    I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
    a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
    probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
    happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
    something like that to avoid conflicts.

    We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.

    Robert

    If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
    actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.

    I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
    do the installation, later.

    Paul


    I added a new Rob1 Account to the Lieutenant
    Admin Account but it has to also required a
    password.

    https://postimg.cc/1n8RHKv3

    How come my window 7 Pro have User Accounts
    that don't require passwords?

    In any event I thought it was prudent to create another
    user account for the Lt Admin Account separate from the
    TEMP account.

    I suppose going forward, we should transfer all our efforts to
    the Lieutenant Admin Account and Rob1 Accounts to make
    them workable.

    I installed Dell Imagining, Word and Excel on the Lieutenant
    Account and Rob1.

    Robert




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    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 31 01:16:50 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

        Paul



    I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
    Admin Account and the Err  command but still lots to do
    and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
    we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
    Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
    we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
    yesterday *L*

    I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
    it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
    Prompt while I was there.

    I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
    a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
    probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
    happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
    something like that to avoid conflicts.

    We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.

    Robert

    If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
    actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.

    I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
    do the installation, later.

    Paul


    There's now (2) Robs plus the Rob1, TEMP and the Lieutenant Accounts.

    I'd like very much to download FF and Seamonkey to the Lieutenant and
    Rob1 Accounts so I have more of a working computer followed by my A/V
    suite.

    Avast
    Spywareblaster
    Malwarebytes
    SuperAntiSpyware
    Windows Defender
    Windows firewall

    Then I'd like to import my bookmarks and copy/paste My Documents.
    However I know you may have things we still have to do.

    Did you want me to install Agent Ransack?
    Do you still want me to create a Win 10 iso?
    What was that string you wanted me to run to see if Windows Defender
    would detect it.?
    Do you still want to do that?
    Do you still want to do the offline Windows Defender scan? That looks
    very involved
    and I've re-read it several times.

    I have defragged the computer but should I run Disk Cleanup under Accessories/System Tools and use the defaults?

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 31 04:10:12 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

        Paul



    I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
    Admin Account and the Err  command but still lots to do
    and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
    we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
    Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
    we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
    yesterday *L*

    I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
    it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
    Prompt while I was there.

    I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
    a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
    probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
    happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
    something like that to avoid conflicts.

    We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.

    Robert

    If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
    actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.

    I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
    do the installation, later.

    Paul



    This is a test from the LT Admin Account.

    Please verify your seeing this post.

    I downloaded FF and Sea Monkey after scanning
    with Windows Defender.


    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 31 04:29:13 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

        Paul



    I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
    Admin Account and the Err  command but still lots to do
    and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
    we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
    Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
    we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
    yesterday *L*

    I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
    it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
    Prompt while I was there.

    I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
    a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
    probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
    happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
    something like that to avoid conflicts.

    We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.

    Robert

    If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
    actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.

    I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
    do the installation, later.

    Paul



    I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..


    How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
    it doesn't have a home page icon.

    Robert


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 31 10:25:49 2023
    On 12/31/2023 7:10 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    This is a test from the LT Admin Account.

    Please verify your seeing this post.

    I downloaded FF and Sea Monkey after scanning
    with Windows Defender.


    Robert

    Can see it here on my end.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 31 10:24:48 2023
    On 12/31/2023 4:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

         Paul



    I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
    Admin Account and the Err  command but still lots to do
    and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
    we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
    Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
    we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
    yesterday *L*

    I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
    it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
    Prompt while I was there.

    I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
    a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
    probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
    happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
    something like that to avoid conflicts.

    We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.

    Robert

    If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
    actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.

    I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
    do the installation, later.

        Paul


    There's now (2) Robs plus the Rob1, TEMP and the Lieutenant Accounts.

    I'd like very much to download FF and Seamonkey to the Lieutenant and
    Rob1 Accounts  so I have more of a working computer followed by my  A/V suite.

    Avast
    Spywareblaster
    Malwarebytes
    SuperAntiSpyware
    Windows Defender
    Windows firewall

    Then I'd like to import my bookmarks and copy/paste My Documents.
    However I know you may have things we still have to do.

    Did  you want me to install Agent Ransack?
    Do you still want me to create a Win 10 iso?
    What was that string you wanted me to run to see if Windows Defender would detect it.?
    Do you still want to do that?
    Do you still want to do the offline Windows Defender scan? That looks very involved
    and I've re-read it several times.

    I have defragged the computer but should I run Disk Cleanup under Accessories/System Tools and use the defaults?

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    As an Administrator, one of the options would be to "Install for all accounts".

    However, not all the softwares show such an option, and you assume
    as the administrator, it is going to do the right thing.

    This means you don't necessarily need to go through this ceremony for
    each and every account. Notice how in the picture, my new account on the
    right, during the "setting up screen" on the first run of the account, materials are being copied from the default account. The new user then, inherits a certain amount of materials, saving you a lot of work.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/5097JyQN/install-software-for-all-users.gif

    *******

    The work you're doing, is for yourself, and you weigh it in that regard.

    The Win10 ISO is for emergencies, when it is too hard to repair the
    computer, and a "Repair Install" is the easiest option to be arranged.
    This is why it's important to have media, media "for all occasions".

    Agent Ransack is so you can find stuff, if you can figure out
    how to use it. It has a few menu tricks to confuse matters, but
    it's otherwise a good searcher. And it finds things that
    Windows 10 glitches don't find. It is probably already installed anyway.
    Check and see if it is in the new account and its menu structure.
    It may not have placed an icon on the desktop.

    You can do a Windows Defender offline scan. It's easy.

    Doing the scan is the easy part. You get the security open
    and find the offline scan button. After you click the button,
    the GUI will warn that a restart is coming in a matter of seconds.
    Don't have any edit windows open with work you cannot
    afford to use. We can read the output files from the scan
    later, as the scan is the most time-consuming part.

    Disk Cleanup is good. Read each item that is ticked, and
    make sure it is what you want to do.

    For example, if it said "Delete Downloads folder" you would not be doing that :-)

    Work on your list, and see how many items are already "done".

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 31 10:39:00 2023
    On 12/31/2023 7:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

         Paul



    I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
    Admin Account and the Err  command but still lots to do
    and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
    we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
    Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
    we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
    yesterday *L*

    I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
    it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
    Prompt while I was there.

    I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
    a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
    probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
    happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
    something like that to avoid conflicts.

    We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.

    Robert

    If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
    actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.

    I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
    do the installation, later.

        Paul



    I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..


    How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
    it doesn't have a home page icon.

    Robert

    Tools : Settings : then Home on the left, then New Windows and Tabs on the right.

    The interface has a specific option for Blank.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 31 13:10:10 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/31/2023 7:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

         Paul



    I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
    Admin Account and the Err  command but still lots to do
    and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
    we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
    Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
    we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
    yesterday *L*

    I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
    it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
    Prompt while I was there.

    I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
    a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
    probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
    happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
    something like that to avoid conflicts.

    We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.

    Robert

    If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
    actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.

    I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
    do the installation, later.

        Paul



    I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..


    How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
    it doesn't have a home page icon.

    Robert

    Tools : Settings : then Home on the left, then New Windows and Tabs on the right.

    The interface has a specific option for Blank.

    Paul




    I tried the instructions you gave for setting the home
    page but the icon never appeared?

    You have to give me instructions for Windows Defender,..
    it doesn't look so easy.

    I want to start adding my A/V suite and I'll include
    Agent Ransack in that as well. In between anything
    you want me to do.

    Robert


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 31 13:02:59 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/31/2023 7:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

         Paul



    I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
    Admin Account and the Err  command but still lots to do
    and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
    we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
    Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
    we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
    yesterday *L*

    I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
    it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
    Prompt while I was there.

    I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
    a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
    probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
    happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
    something like that to avoid conflicts.

    We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.

    Robert

    If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
    actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.

    I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
    do the installation, later.

        Paul



    I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..


    How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
    it doesn't have a home page icon.

    Robert

    Tools : Settings : then Home on the left, then New Windows and Tabs on the right.

    The interface has a specific option for Blank.

    Paul



    I thought you'd like to know,..

    I have the DVD+RDL's, and I'm running the
    Media CreationTool on the TEMP Admin
    Account just to play it safe;

    I just followed the directions and went slowly
    until it came to where it said it would and I
    selected to burn a DVD.

    It's running now

    Robert






    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 31 13:24:31 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/31/2023 7:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

         Paul



    I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
    Admin Account and the Err  command but still lots to do
    and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
    we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
    Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
    we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
    yesterday *L*

    I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
    it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
    Prompt while I was there.

    I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
    a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
    probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
    happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
    something like that to avoid conflicts.

    We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.

    Robert

    If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
    actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.

    I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
    do the installation, later.

        Paul



    I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..


    How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
    it doesn't have a home page icon.

    Robert

    Tools : Settings : then Home on the left, then New Windows and Tabs on the right.

    The interface has a specific option for Blank.

    Paul



    Here's the MediaCreationTool:

    https://postimg.cc/nCPZjfH9

    https://postimg.cc/pm5vKcTG

    https://postimg.cc/R3rBd1JM

    https://postimg.cc/wygd86kZ

    https://postimg.cc/V57PpP0Z

    https://postimg.cc/hf6W48r9

    https://postimg.cc/YvFcv4nT

    https://postimg.cc/kVNky0dc

    https://postimg.cc/S2yH1gSp

    https://postimg.cc/y3xtsW3Q

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 31 15:12:45 2023
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/31/2023 7:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

         Paul



    I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
    Admin Account and the Err  command but still lots to do
    and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
    we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
    Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
    we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
    yesterday *L*

    I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
    it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
    Prompt while I was there.

    I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
    a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
    probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
    happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
    something like that to avoid conflicts.

    We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.

    Robert

    If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
    actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.

    I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
    do the installation, later.

        Paul



    I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..


    How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
    it doesn't have a home page icon.

    Robert

    Tools : Settings : then Home on the left, then New Windows and Tabs on the right.

    The interface has a specific option for Blank.

    Paul




    Here's the last part of the MediaCreationTool

    https://postimg.cc/8fDkH2cB

    https://postimg.cc/BPgSwm1W

    https://postimg.cc/5jM8TjFp

    https://postimg.cc/vc094z2S


    After it finished it opened the optical drive.

    How should I label it?

    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 31 22:00:16 2023
    On 12/31/2023 6:12 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/31/2023 7:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

          Paul



    I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
    Admin Account and the Err  command but still lots to do
    and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
    we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
    Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
    we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
    yesterday *L*

    I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
    it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
    Prompt while I was there.

    I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
    a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
    probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
    happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
    something like that to avoid conflicts.

    We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.

    Robert

    If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
    actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.

    I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
    do the installation, later.

         Paul



    I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..


    How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
    it doesn't have a home page icon.

    Robert

    Tools : Settings : then Home on the left, then New Windows and Tabs on the right.

    The interface has a specific option for Blank.

        Paul




    Here's the last part of the MediaCreationTool

    https://postimg.cc/8fDkH2cB # MCT prompt for open DVD drive tray

    https://postimg.cc/BPgSwm1W # "Setup is cleaning up"> https://postimg.cc/5jM8TjFp # IMAPI2 burn prompt

    https://postimg.cc/vc094z2S # Off and running.


    After it finished it opened the optical drive.

    How should I label it?

    Robert

    Copy the file from the directory recorded in your first picture.

    C:\users\TEMP\AppData\Local\Microsoft\Windows\Burn\Burn\Windows.iso

    You could copy it to

    C:\users\Rob\Downloads\Win10-22H2-x64-Dec2023.iso

    Win10-22H2-x64-Dec2023 is a good label for it.

    As user TEMP, paste the string into File Explorer, to see the file.
    The AppData folder is hidden, which is why step-by-step navigation is difficult.

    C:\users\TEMP\AppData\Local\Microsoft\Windows\Burn\Burn\

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 31 21:51:36 2023
    On 12/31/2023 4:24 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/31/2023 7:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

          Paul



    I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
    Admin Account and the Err  command but still lots to do
    and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
    we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
    Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
    we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
    yesterday *L*

    I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
    it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
    Prompt while I was there.

    I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
    a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
    probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something
    happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
    something like that to avoid conflicts.

    We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.

    Robert

    If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
    actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.

    I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
    do the installation, later.

         Paul



    I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..


    How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
    it doesn't have a home page icon.

    Robert

    Tools : Settings : then Home on the left, then New Windows and Tabs on the right.

    The interface has a specific option for Blank.

        Paul



    Here's the MediaCreationTool:

    https://postimg.cc/nCPZjfH9 # Queued for DVD

    https://postimg.cc/pm5vKcTG # OK, UAC prompt from MediaCreationTool

    https://postimg.cc/R3rBd1JM # "Getting a few things ready"

    https://postimg.cc/wygd86kZ # T&C prompt

    https://postimg.cc/V57PpP0Z

    https://postimg.cc/hf6W48r9 # "Create installation media"

    https://postimg.cc/YvFcv4nT # en-us , Win10 , x64

    https://postimg.cc/kVNky0dc # "ISO file" as output

    https://postimg.cc/S2yH1gSp # Saving ISO directly to DVD. Wrong. Should have saved to Downloads directory

    https://postimg.cc/y3xtsW3Q # Progress of download...

    Robert

    You seem to be saving it to the DVD drive.

    You should be saving it in the Downloads folder.

    Using Agent Ransack, try this:

    File name: [Leave blank]
    Containing text: [Leave blank]
    Look in: C:

    When the search is finished, click the "Size" column so it sorts by size.
    The Windows.iso should be stored somewhere on C: at a guess. Here, I have renamed mine, but the size should be very close to the size you get. This
    is one way to tell it's the correct file, is the size is a clue.

    Name: Win10-22H2-x64-Dec2023.iso
    Size: 4,893,900,800 bytes (4667 MiB)
    SHA1: 57F036F786FF03FE699C8CAAF646FD9090AF7DE9

    Make a copy of it, to some place safe. Rename the file in a way
    you can recognize later, what it is. You can see I changed the
    name of mine, when I made my file.

    These are the steps:

    1) Save to the Downloads folder.

    2) After it is finished the download, it will prompt you
    if you would like to burn a DVD. You can do it at that
    point, and it will NOT work via the drag&drop method.
    This is because burning an ISO is a "conversion process".
    It is not just copying a file onto a DVD. The structure of
    the ISO is decomposed into sections and written in specific
    places. That's why the disc ends up bootable, because of
    the "conversion process".

    If you list the DVD later, you will NOT see Windows.iso.
    You will see "Setup.exe" and friends, if the job is done right.

    Sure, you can lose the Windows.iso and keep the DVD as your
    copy. I like to keep my Windows.iso, in case the first disc
    gets scratched up and I need to make another.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 1 04:16:49 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/31/2023 6:12 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/31/2023 7:29 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 6:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 12/30/2023 7:50 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/1VFhMzwT


    https://postimg.cc/FfHM8p00

    Robert

    Amazing :-) Now, you're a Wizard.

    Hackers, look out.

          Paul



    I'm glad we've made some progress with the Lieutenant
    Admin Account and the Err  command but still lots to do
    and I was just thinking once we get the 780 Win 10 completed
    we need to put the 8500 Win 10 in and see if its actually a
    Win 10 or Win 7 Pro OS and we'll have to repeat allot of what
    we did on the 780,... I can't hardly remember what I just did
    yesterday *L*

    I went in and out of the Lieutenant Admin Account just to verify
    it was working and changed the Windows Powershell to Command
    Prompt while I was there.

    I was also thinking of deleting the Rob Account and creating
    a new Rob User Account under Lt without a password but its
    probably not a good idea to delete Rob first just in case something >>>>>> happens. So I would have to re-name the new Account Rob1 or
    something like that to avoid conflicts.

    We also need to download FF, Word, Excel, Dell Imagining to the
    Lieutenant Admin Account. It's only on the Rob Account.

    Robert

    If you are logged in with your new Elevated account, you can
    actually use File Explorer, to go to C:\users\Rob\Downloads and
    transfer your installers from there, to the new account area.

    I like to copy installer files, as a record of what I used to
    do the installation, later.

         Paul



    I'm back on the 8500 Sea Monkey,..


    How do I make FF my home page with about:blank in Win 10
    it doesn't have a home page icon.

    Robert

    Tools : Settings : then Home on the left, then New Windows and Tabs on the right.

    The interface has a specific option for Blank.

        Paul




    Here's the last part of the MediaCreationTool

    https://postimg.cc/8fDkH2cB # MCT prompt for open DVD drive tray

    https://postimg.cc/BPgSwm1W # "Setup is cleaning up">
    https://postimg.cc/5jM8TjFp # IMAPI2 burn prompt

    https://postimg.cc/vc094z2S # Off and running.


    After it finished it opened the optical drive.

    How should I label it?

    Robert

    Copy the file from the directory recorded in your first picture.

    C:\users\TEMP\AppData\Local\Microsoft\Windows\Burn\Burn\Windows.iso

    You could copy it to

    C:\users\Rob\Downloads\Win10-22H2-x64-Dec2023.iso

    Win10-22H2-x64-Dec2023 is a good label for it.

    As user TEMP, paste the string into File Explorer, to see the file.
    The AppData folder is hidden, which is why step-by-step navigation is difficult.

    C:\users\TEMP\AppData\Local\Microsoft\Windows\Burn\Burn\

    Paul



    I keep getting this,

    https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN

    I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh

    I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
    the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.

    https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb

    https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ

    https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK

    https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g

    https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR

    https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL

    https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg

    https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N

    https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC

    https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP

    https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG


    I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:

    https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7

    So what do I do now?

    I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
    but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
    to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
    a Windows 10 Installer?

    I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
    and will also do so for the Lt Account.

    I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
    any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
    so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Jan 1 09:41:20 2024
    On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I keep getting this,

    https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN

    I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh

    I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
    the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.

    https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb

    https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ

    https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK

    https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g

    https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR

    https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL

    https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg

    https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N

    https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC

    https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP

    https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG


    I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:

    https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7

    So what do I do now?

    I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
    but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
    to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
    a Windows 10 Installer?

    I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
    and will also do so for the Lt Account.

    I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
    any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
    so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
    This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e

    If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.

    SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 1 09:00:24 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I keep getting this,

    https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN

    I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh

    I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
    the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.

    https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb

    https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ

    https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK

    https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g

    https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR

    https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL

    https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg

    https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N

    https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC

    https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP

    https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG


    I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:

    https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7

    So what do I do now?

    I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
    but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
    to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
    a Windows 10 Installer?

    I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
    and will also do so for the Lt Account.

    I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
    any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
    so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
    This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e

    If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.

    SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E

    Paul





    I right clicked it and saved it in downloads,,.

    https://postimg.cc/N5mSjSjB

    what now?

    I started to close FF and I got this pop-up

    https://postimg.cc/Ff8VcFTq

    So I didn't close it.

    I opened Task Manager and maybe this has something to do
    with the CTF that was checked ?

    https://postimg.cc/wRcXSX98

    or this ?

    https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN


    for some reason PostImage doesn't work on the TEMP Account.

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 1 09:03:24 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I keep getting this,

    https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN

    I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh

    I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
    the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.

    https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb

    https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ

    https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK

    https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g

    https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR

    https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL

    https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg

    https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N

    https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC

    https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP

    https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG


    I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:

    https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7

    So what do I do now?

    I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
    but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
    to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
    a Windows 10 Installer?

    I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
    and will also do so for the Lt Account.

    I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
    any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
    so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
    This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e

    If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.

    SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E

    Paul





    let me clarify, postimage works but the cut
    and copy are grayed out. on the TEMP Account.

    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 1 12:20:00 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I keep getting this,

    https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN

    I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh

    I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
    the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.

    https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb

    https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ

    https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK

    https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g

    https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR

    https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL

    https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg

    https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N

    https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC

    https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP

    https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG


    I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:

    https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7

    So what do I do now?

    I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
    but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
    to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
    a Windows 10 Installer?

    I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
    and will also do so for the Lt Account.

    I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
    any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
    so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
    This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e

    If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.

    SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E

    Paul





    What ever was downloading whether it was the
    CTF or something else finished and I was able
    to close ff and shutdown the 780 normally.

    How shall I proceed with the files in downloads?

    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 1 19:20:37 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I keep getting this,

    https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN

    I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh

    I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
    the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.

    https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb

    https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ

    https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK

    https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g

    https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR

    https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL

    https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg

    https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N

    https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC

    https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP

    https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG


    I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:

    https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7

    So what do I do now?

    I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
    but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
    to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
    a Windows 10 Installer?

    I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
    and will also do so for the Lt Account.

    I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
    any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
    so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
    This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e

    If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.

    SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E

    Paul




    A/V Suite

    spywareblaster - http://www.brightfort.com/

    Which one do I click? the free download at the top next to
    Buy Pro version or the free download with the blue Home
    on the lower left?

    malwarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/

    I downloaded this to the 780 but it was the premium version,
    in the process of uninstalling I switched it to the free version
    but when I tried to update it, it took forever and never finished
    so I uninstalled it. How can I download a clean free version?

    Superantispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/

    Do I click the red Download button ?

    avast - https://www.avast.com/installation-files#

    Do I check the Avast Antivirus free download - online installer?

    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Jan 2 02:21:38 2024
    On 1/1/2024 10:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I keep getting this,

    https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN

    I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh

    I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
    the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.

    https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb

    https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ

    https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK

    https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g

    https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR

    https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL

    https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg

    https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N

    https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC

    https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP

    https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG


    I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:

    https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7

    So what do I do now?

    I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
    but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
    to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
    a Windows 10 Installer?

    I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
    and will also do so for the Lt Account.

    I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
    any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
    so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
    This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e

    If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.

    SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E

        Paul




    A/V Suite

    spywareblaster - http://www.brightfort.com/

    Which one do I click? the free download at the top next to
    Buy Pro version or the free download with the blue Home
    on the lower left?

    malwarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/

    I downloaded this to the 780 but it was the premium version,
    in the process of uninstalling I switched it to the free version
    but when I tried to update it, it took forever and never finished
    so I uninstalled it. How can I download a clean free version?

    Superantispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/

    Do I click the red Download button ?

    avast - https://www.avast.com/installation-files#

    Do I check the Avast Antivirus free download - online installer?

    Robert

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/spywareblaster.html

    Author: Brightfort
    Date: 12/07/2020
    Size: 4.23 MB
    License: Freeware
    Requires: 10|8|7
    Downloads: 15683232 times

    SpywareBlaster 6.0 Installer | Size: 4,329 KB | MD5: ed3c5976a98e3729add30767794fd15d

    Upgrade Instructions Simply download the new installer and run it - it should upgrade
    you to the latest version of SpywareBlaster.

    Although you don't have to, you can also do a clean install with the instructions below:

    Open SpywareBlaster and press the "Disable All Protection" link under "Quick Tasks".
    Close SpywareBlaster.
    Go to Add/Remove Programs and uninstall the entry named "SpywareBlaster 5.6"
    Download the latest SpywareBlaster installer from the link above and run it.
    Enjoy the new version of SpywareBlaster!

    ***********************

    This has the stub installer. 4.6.0.352

    https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360038479134-Install-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4

    Name: MBSetup.exe
    Size: 2,606,880 bytes (2545 KiB)
    SHA256: 7C0B9BCEED390F7F28135431C09AC51469EE8E2B8095FB36A37315D811D9BA9C

    There are instructions for moving from the Premium Trial, to the Free On-Demand behavior.

    https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360040972954-Deactivate-Premium-Trial-in-Malwarebytes-for-Windows

    The old link I have for the offline installer is here.
    You can see this file is bigger. I expect the definitions
    file will be yet another download after this.

    https://downloads.malwarebytes.com/file/mb4_offline

    Name: MBSetup.exe 4.6.0.352
    Size: 292,680,840 bytes (279 MiB)
    SHA256: 4763A0F50181FA9190B8872F84DF1147EF50AD7338488ADCABE277223C0DBF9C

    *******

    The button on the page, says it is a "FREE" item. You know more about
    this one than I do. Free items aren't always really free.

    https://www.superantispyware.com/downloadfile.html?productid=SUPERANTISPYWAREFREE

    *******

    https://www.avast.com/installation-files

    The online one would be a small stub, then it is going to do 600MB of downloads, every time you install it.

    The offline installer is a 600MB download, and every time you install
    it, it will be out of date. The difference is, to bring itself back
    up-to-date, it will be loading components as needed. Maybe the definitions
    are 100MB, every time you install it.

    The offline choice is the better value, to me, but I don't know
    that for a fact. It's just a strategy.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Jan 2 04:01:25 2024
    On 1/1/2024 12:00 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I right clicked it and saved it in downloads,,.

    https://postimg.cc/N5mSjSjB

    what now?

    I started to close FF and I got this pop-up

    https://postimg.cc/Ff8VcFTq

    So I didn't close it.

    I opened Task Manager and maybe this has something to do
    with the CTF that was checked ?

    https://postimg.cc/wRcXSX98

    or this ?

    https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN


    for some reason PostImage doesn't work on the TEMP Account.

    Robert

    Looks like I'm running 2.5.8.0 version of the DVD burner.

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/imgburn.html

    Name: SetupImgBurn_2.5.8.0.exe
    Size: 3,101,913 bytes (3029 KiB)
    SHA256: 49AA06EAFFE431F05687109FEE25F66781ABBE1108F3F8CA78C79BDEC8753420

    That's an example of a DVD burner program.
    It converts an ISO to a bootable disc.

    Of the six icons in the main window, the upper left one does an ISO.

    "Write Image File to Disc"

    You tick the Verify button, to have the disc read-verified after a burn.
    It opens and closes the tray by itself, to trigger "re-discovery" of the disc.

    Turn the volume down on the speakers, when using the program.

    The program should be able to handle dual layer media.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 2 04:57:29 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/1/2024 10:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I keep getting this,

    https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN

    I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh

    I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
    the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.

    https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb

    https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ

    https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK

    https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g

    https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR

    https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL

    https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg

    https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N

    https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC

    https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP

    https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG


    I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:

    https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7

    So what do I do now?

    I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
    but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
    to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
    a Windows 10 Installer?

    I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
    and will also do so for the Lt Account.

    I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
    any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
    so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
    This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e

    If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.

    SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E

        Paul




    A/V Suite

    spywareblaster - http://www.brightfort.com/

    Which one do I click? the free download at the top next to
    Buy Pro version or the free download with the blue Home
    on the lower left?

    malwarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/

    I downloaded this to the 780 but it was the premium version,
    in the process of uninstalling I switched it to the free version
    but when I tried to update it, it took forever and never finished
    so I uninstalled it. How can I download a clean free version?

    Superantispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/

    Do I click the red Download button ?

    avast - https://www.avast.com/installation-files#

    Do I check the Avast Antivirus free download - online installer?

    Robert

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/spywareblaster.html

    Author: Brightfort
    Date: 12/07/2020
    Size: 4.23 MB
    License: Freeware
    Requires: 10|8|7
    Downloads: 15683232 times

    SpywareBlaster 6.0 Installer | Size: 4,329 KB | MD5: ed3c5976a98e3729add30767794fd15d

    Upgrade Instructions Simply download the new installer and run it - it should upgrade
    you to the latest version of SpywareBlaster.

    Although you don't have to, you can also do a clean install with the instructions below:

    Open SpywareBlaster and press the "Disable All Protection" link under "Quick Tasks".
    Close SpywareBlaster.
    Go to Add/Remove Programs and uninstall the entry named "SpywareBlaster 5.6"
    Download the latest SpywareBlaster installer from the link above and run it.
    Enjoy the new version of SpywareBlaster!

    ***********************

    This has the stub installer. 4.6.0.352

    https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360038479134-Install-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4

    Name: MBSetup.exe
    Size: 2,606,880 bytes (2545 KiB)
    SHA256: 7C0B9BCEED390F7F28135431C09AC51469EE8E2B8095FB36A37315D811D9BA9C

    There are instructions for moving from the Premium Trial, to the Free On-Demand behavior.

    https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360040972954-Deactivate-Premium-Trial-in-Malwarebytes-for-Windows

    The old link I have for the offline installer is here.
    You can see this file is bigger. I expect the definitions
    file will be yet another download after this.

    https://downloads.malwarebytes.com/file/mb4_offline

    Name: MBSetup.exe 4.6.0.352
    Size: 292,680,840 bytes (279 MiB)
    SHA256: 4763A0F50181FA9190B8872F84DF1147EF50AD7338488ADCABE277223C0DBF9C

    *******

    The button on the page, says it is a "FREE" item. You know more about
    this one than I do. Free items aren't always really free.

    https://www.superantispyware.com/downloadfile.html?productid=SUPERANTISPYWAREFREE

    *******

    https://www.avast.com/installation-files

    The online one would be a small stub, then it is going to do 600MB of downloads, every time you install it.

    The offline installer is a 600MB download, and every time you install
    it, it will be out of date. The difference is, to bring itself back up-to-date, it will be loading components as needed. Maybe the definitions are 100MB, every time you install it.

    The offline choice is the better value, to me, but I don't know
    that for a fact. It's just a strategy.

    Paul



    I have to head out soon for a epideral then will
    return to installing the A/V suite on the 780.

    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 2 23:44:23 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/1/2024 10:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I keep getting this,

    https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN

    I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh

    I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
    the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.

    https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb

    https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ

    https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK

    https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g

    https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR

    https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL

    https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg

    https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N

    https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC

    https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP

    https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG


    I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:

    https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7

    So what do I do now?

    I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
    but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
    to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
    a Windows 10 Installer?

    I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
    and will also do so for the Lt Account.

    I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
    any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
    so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
    This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e

    If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.

    SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E

        Paul




    A/V Suite

    spywareblaster - http://www.brightfort.com/

    Which one do I click? the free download at the top next to
    Buy Pro version or the free download with the blue Home
    on the lower left?

    malwarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/

    I downloaded this to the 780 but it was the premium version,
    in the process of uninstalling I switched it to the free version
    but when I tried to update it, it took forever and never finished
    so I uninstalled it. How can I download a clean free version?

    Superantispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/

    Do I click the red Download button ?

    avast - https://www.avast.com/installation-files#

    Do I check the Avast Antivirus free download - online installer?

    Robert

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/spywareblaster.html

    Author: Brightfort
    Date: 12/07/2020
    Size: 4.23 MB
    License: Freeware
    Requires: 10|8|7
    Downloads: 15683232 times

    SpywareBlaster 6.0 Installer | Size: 4,329 KB | MD5: ed3c5976a98e3729add30767794fd15d

    Upgrade Instructions Simply download the new installer and run it - it should upgrade
    you to the latest version of SpywareBlaster.

    Although you don't have to, you can also do a clean install with the instructions below:

    Open SpywareBlaster and press the "Disable All Protection" link under "Quick Tasks".
    Close SpywareBlaster.
    Go to Add/Remove Programs and uninstall the entry named "SpywareBlaster 5.6"
    Download the latest SpywareBlaster installer from the link above and run it.
    Enjoy the new version of SpywareBlaster!

    ***********************

    This has the stub installer. 4.6.0.352

    https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360038479134-Install-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4

    Name: MBSetup.exe
    Size: 2,606,880 bytes (2545 KiB)
    SHA256: 7C0B9BCEED390F7F28135431C09AC51469EE8E2B8095FB36A37315D811D9BA9C

    There are instructions for moving from the Premium Trial, to the Free On-Demand behavior.

    https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360040972954-Deactivate-Premium-Trial-in-Malwarebytes-for-Windows

    The old link I have for the offline installer is here.
    You can see this file is bigger. I expect the definitions
    file will be yet another download after this.

    https://downloads.malwarebytes.com/file/mb4_offline

    Name: MBSetup.exe 4.6.0.352
    Size: 292,680,840 bytes (279 MiB)
    SHA256: 4763A0F50181FA9190B8872F84DF1147EF50AD7338488ADCABE277223C0DBF9C

    *******

    The button on the page, says it is a "FREE" item. You know more about
    this one than I do. Free items aren't always really free.

    https://www.superantispyware.com/downloadfile.html?productid=SUPERANTISPYWAREFREE

    *******

    https://www.avast.com/installation-files

    The online one would be a small stub, then it is going to do 600MB of downloads, every time you install it.

    The offline installer is a 600MB download, and every time you install
    it, it will be out of date. The difference is, to bring itself back up-to-date, it will be loading components as needed. Maybe the definitions are 100MB, every time you install it.

    The offline choice is the better value, to me, but I don't know
    that for a fact. It's just a strategy.

    Paul



    I got my Harman Kardon base module and connected the satellite
    speakers to it and now have sound on the 780 the same as the
    8500.

    I downloaded and installed Spywareblaster on the 780 and downloaded
    the first link you gave for malwarebytes (I didn't have to deactivate
    the account), and I checked for updates.

    I also download SuperAntiSpyware and know next to nothing about
    free anything but you're right nothing is for free. Then I
    downloaded Avast.

    I scanned all the downloads with Windows Defender before installing (hex8).

    I have an older version of ImageBurn so I assume your link will just
    update it. I am going to run it now.

    I'll let you know how it goes,...

    Robert






    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Jan 3 00:34:27 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/1/2024 10:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I keep getting this,

    https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN

    I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh

    I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
    the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.

    https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb

    https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ

    https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK

    https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g

    https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR

    https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL

    https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg

    https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N

    https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC

    https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP

    https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG


    I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:

    https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7

    So what do I do now?

    I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
    but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
    to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
    a Windows 10 Installer?

    I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
    and will also do so for the Lt Account.

    I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
    any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
    so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
    This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e

    If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.

    SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E

        Paul




    A/V Suite

    spywareblaster - http://www.brightfort.com/

    Which one do I click? the free download at the top next to
    Buy Pro version or the free download with the blue Home
    on the lower left?

    malwarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/

    I downloaded this to the 780 but it was the premium version,
    in the process of uninstalling I switched it to the free version
    but when I tried to update it, it took forever and never finished
    so I uninstalled it. How can I download a clean free version?

    Superantispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/

    Do I click the red Download button ?

    avast - https://www.avast.com/installation-files#

    Do I check the Avast Antivirus free download - online installer?

    Robert

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/spywareblaster.html

    Author: Brightfort
    Date: 12/07/2020
    Size: 4.23 MB
    License: Freeware
    Requires: 10|8|7
    Downloads: 15683232 times

    SpywareBlaster 6.0 Installer | Size: 4,329 KB | MD5: ed3c5976a98e3729add30767794fd15d

    Upgrade Instructions Simply download the new installer and run it - it should upgrade
    you to the latest version of SpywareBlaster.

    Although you don't have to, you can also do a clean install with the instructions below:

    Open SpywareBlaster and press the "Disable All Protection" link under "Quick Tasks".
    Close SpywareBlaster.
    Go to Add/Remove Programs and uninstall the entry named "SpywareBlaster 5.6"
    Download the latest SpywareBlaster installer from the link above and run it.
    Enjoy the new version of SpywareBlaster!

    ***********************

    This has the stub installer. 4.6.0.352

    https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360038479134-Install-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4

    Name: MBSetup.exe
    Size: 2,606,880 bytes (2545 KiB)
    SHA256: 7C0B9BCEED390F7F28135431C09AC51469EE8E2B8095FB36A37315D811D9BA9C

    There are instructions for moving from the Premium Trial, to the Free On-Demand behavior.

    https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360040972954-Deactivate-Premium-Trial-in-Malwarebytes-for-Windows

    The old link I have for the offline installer is here.
    You can see this file is bigger. I expect the definitions
    file will be yet another download after this.

    https://downloads.malwarebytes.com/file/mb4_offline

    Name: MBSetup.exe 4.6.0.352
    Size: 292,680,840 bytes (279 MiB)
    SHA256: 4763A0F50181FA9190B8872F84DF1147EF50AD7338488ADCABE277223C0DBF9C

    *******

    The button on the page, says it is a "FREE" item. You know more about
    this one than I do. Free items aren't always really free.

    https://www.superantispyware.com/downloadfile.html?productid=SUPERANTISPYWAREFREE

    *******

    https://www.avast.com/installation-files

    The online one would be a small stub, then it is going to do 600MB of downloads, every time you install it.

    The offline installer is a 600MB download, and every time you install
    it, it will be out of date. The difference is, to bring itself back up-to-date, it will be loading components as needed. Maybe the definitions are 100MB, every time you install it.

    The offline choice is the better value, to me, but I don't know
    that for a fact. It's just a strategy.

    Paul


    Here's the 780 with all the A/V

    https://postimg.cc/GTY1Y2fQ

    I successfully completed the img burn of the ISO and started to
    verified it.
    but then it got this.

    https://postimg.cc/3k5sMYqM

    https://postimg.cc/5YTPwmdc

    https://postimg.cc/qzdw4qpG

    So this DVD+RDL is also toast? I only have (3) left. Should I order
    more ?

    Robert





    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Jan 3 12:38:21 2024
    On 1/3/2024 3:34 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/1/2024 10:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I keep getting this,

    https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN

    I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh

    I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
    the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.

    https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb

    https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ

    https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK

    https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g

    https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR

    https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL

    https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg

    https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N

    https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC

    https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP

    https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG


    I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:

    https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7

    So what do I do now?

    I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
    but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
    to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
    a Windows 10 Installer?

    I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
    and will also do so for the Lt Account.

    I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
    any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
    so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD. >>>> This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e

    If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.

    SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E >>>>
         Paul




    A/V Suite

    spywareblaster - http://www.brightfort.com/

    Which one do I click? the free download at the top next to
    Buy Pro version or the free download with the blue Home
    on the lower left?

    malwarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/

    I downloaded this to the 780 but it was the premium version,
    in the process of uninstalling I switched it to the free version
    but when I tried to update it, it took forever and never finished
    so I uninstalled it. How can I download a clean free version?

    Superantispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/

    Do I click the red Download button ?

    avast - https://www.avast.com/installation-files#

    Do I check the Avast Antivirus free download - online installer?

    Robert

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/spywareblaster.html

    Author: Brightfort
    Date: 12/07/2020
    Size: 4.23 MB
    License: Freeware
    Requires: 10|8|7
    Downloads: 15683232 times

    SpywareBlaster 6.0 Installer | Size: 4,329 KB | MD5: ed3c5976a98e3729add30767794fd15d

    Upgrade Instructions Simply download the new installer and run it - it should upgrade
      you to the latest version of SpywareBlaster.

    Although you don't have to, you can also do a clean install with the instructions below:

         Open SpywareBlaster and press the "Disable All Protection" link under "Quick Tasks".
         Close SpywareBlaster.
         Go to Add/Remove Programs and uninstall the entry named "SpywareBlaster 5.6"
         Download the latest SpywareBlaster installer from the link above and run it.
         Enjoy the new version of SpywareBlaster!

    ***********************

    This has the stub installer. 4.6.0.352

        https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360038479134-Install-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4

           Name: MBSetup.exe
           Size: 2,606,880 bytes (2545 KiB)
           SHA256: 7C0B9BCEED390F7F28135431C09AC51469EE8E2B8095FB36A37315D811D9BA9C

    There are instructions for moving from the Premium Trial, to the Free On-Demand behavior.

        https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360040972954-Deactivate-Premium-Trial-in-Malwarebytes-for-Windows

    The old link I have for the offline installer is here.
    You can see this file is bigger. I expect the definitions
    file will be yet another download after this.

    https://downloads.malwarebytes.com/file/mb4_offline

           Name: MBSetup.exe                    4.6.0.352
           Size: 292,680,840 bytes (279 MiB)
           SHA256: 4763A0F50181FA9190B8872F84DF1147EF50AD7338488ADCABE277223C0DBF9C

    *******

    The button on the page, says it is a "FREE" item. You know more about
    this one than I do. Free items aren't always really free.

    https://www.superantispyware.com/downloadfile.html?productid=SUPERANTISPYWAREFREE

    *******

    https://www.avast.com/installation-files

    The online one would be a small stub, then it is going to do 600MB of
    downloads, every time you install it.

    The offline installer is a 600MB download, and every time you install
    it, it will be out of date. The difference is, to bring itself back
    up-to-date, it will be loading components as needed. Maybe the definitions >> are 100MB, every time you install it.

    The offline choice is the better value, to me, but I don't know
    that for a fact. It's just a strategy.

        Paul


    Here's the 780 with all the A/V

    https://postimg.cc/GTY1Y2fQ

    I successfully completed the img burn of the  ISO and started to verified it.
    but then it got this.

    https://postimg.cc/3k5sMYqM

    https://postimg.cc/5YTPwmdc

    https://postimg.cc/qzdw4qpG

    So this DVD+RDL is also toast? I only have (3) left. Should I order
    more ?

    Robert

    We're going to slow down a bit. No point wasting media.

    https://alternativeto.net/software/nero-infotool/

    I don't want any TrialWare. https://www.videohelp.com/software/DVDInfoPro/old-versions

    I have included pictures of the DVDInfoPro for comparison to Nero Infotool.

    (the LightScribe on the oldest drive, only burns labels on LightScribe-equipped blanks)
    (The utility does not recognize M-Disc capability in the drive.)

    *******************************************

    We'll try the free Nero Infotool.

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/nero_infotool.html

    Name: nero11infotool-11.0.00500.exe
    Size: 32,596,208 bytes (31 MiB)
    SHA256: 8982963C675E39B37B921F5D917439E4A87C81E28CA9BEE88CFCEF521249424F

    # Virustotal behavior section does not look all that good, behavior is mired in history.
    # In other words, it is not malware, it installs a VS Runtime (that's OK), but the
    # other behaviors don't look all that wonderful. It looks like it installs unnecessary patches.

    https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/8982963c675e39b37b921f5d917439e4a87c81e28ca9bee88cfcef521249424f/behavior

    That raises the question of how best to test it. I tried it in a VM,
    and used a USB to IDE for passthru for one optical drive, and
    USB to SATA for passthru of my brand new optical drive (which will
    serve as a reference for what a modern drive looks like).

    It turns out, the drive that is at least 10-12 years old, is as
    compatible as the 1 year old drive.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/hjCpDv7L/check-your-DVD-drive.gif

    Imgburn really should warn you, if the media label is not
    being recognized and it was forced to go to "full power"
    for the burn.

    Maybe we'll get lucky and Nero will say a feature is missing
    and we will have an answer.

    There aren't a lot of DVD drive models to choose from. It
    depends on the retailer as to how much choice is left.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Jan 3 22:48:07 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/3/2024 3:34 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/1/2024 10:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/1/2024 7:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I keep getting this,

    https://postimg.cc/KRhtWRLN

    I messed up again,. and again a second time...ugh

    I missed the point where I was suppose to burn
    the DVD's and now everything is screwed up.

    https://postimg.cc/qNjngwFb

    https://postimg.cc/mzFFXsgJ

    https://postimg.cc/mPXzTDcK

    https://postimg.cc/Lgphxg7g

    https://postimg.cc/8sR7jwJR

    https://postimg.cc/N5bLxMxL

    https://postimg.cc/HrhxfhRg

    https://postimg.cc/WFM1qb3N

    https://postimg.cc/vxh8XqfC

    https://postimg.cc/xq2KxXLP

    https://postimg.cc/XpN9WtHG


    I tried to run it again but I keep getting this error message:

    https://postimg.cc/2bFBRxn7

    So what do I do now?

    I know this may sound stupid this late in the game
    but exactly what is the name of the folder I'm suppose
    to put in downloads and burn to the DVD-RDL. Is it
    a Windows 10 Installer?

    I downloaded Agent Ransack to the Temp Account
    and will also do so for the Lt Account.

    I started the Agent Ransack scan but could not see
    any Windows.iso I tried adjusting the size but there's
    so many files! I guess I'm not doing it right,

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD. >>>>> This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e

    If you have a checksum tool, this is the checksum. The download is coming from the Microsoft site.

    SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E >>>>>
         Paul




    A/V Suite

    spywareblaster - http://www.brightfort.com/

    Which one do I click? the free download at the top next to
    Buy Pro version or the free download with the blue Home
    on the lower left?

    malwarebytes - https://www.malwarebytes.com/

    I downloaded this to the 780 but it was the premium version,
    in the process of uninstalling I switched it to the free version
    but when I tried to update it, it took forever and never finished
    so I uninstalled it. How can I download a clean free version?

    Superantispyware - https://www.superantispyware.com/

    Do I click the red Download button ?

    avast - https://www.avast.com/installation-files#

    Do I check the Avast Antivirus free download - online installer?

    Robert

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/spywareblaster.html

    Author: Brightfort
    Date: 12/07/2020
    Size: 4.23 MB
    License: Freeware
    Requires: 10|8|7
    Downloads: 15683232 times

    SpywareBlaster 6.0 Installer | Size: 4,329 KB | MD5: ed3c5976a98e3729add30767794fd15d

    Upgrade Instructions Simply download the new installer and run it - it should upgrade
      you to the latest version of SpywareBlaster.

    Although you don't have to, you can also do a clean install with the instructions below:

         Open SpywareBlaster and press the "Disable All Protection" link under "Quick Tasks".
         Close SpywareBlaster.
         Go to Add/Remove Programs and uninstall the entry named "SpywareBlaster 5.6"
         Download the latest SpywareBlaster installer from the link above and run it.
         Enjoy the new version of SpywareBlaster!

    ***********************

    This has the stub installer. 4.6.0.352

        https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360038479134-Install-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4

           Name: MBSetup.exe
           Size: 2,606,880 bytes (2545 KiB)
           SHA256: 7C0B9BCEED390F7F28135431C09AC51469EE8E2B8095FB36A37315D811D9BA9C

    There are instructions for moving from the Premium Trial, to the Free On-Demand behavior.

        https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360040972954-Deactivate-Premium-Trial-in-Malwarebytes-for-Windows

    The old link I have for the offline installer is here.
    You can see this file is bigger. I expect the definitions
    file will be yet another download after this.

    https://downloads.malwarebytes.com/file/mb4_offline

           Name: MBSetup.exe                    4.6.0.352
           Size: 292,680,840 bytes (279 MiB)
           SHA256: 4763A0F50181FA9190B8872F84DF1147EF50AD7338488ADCABE277223C0DBF9C

    *******

    The button on the page, says it is a "FREE" item. You know more about
    this one than I do. Free items aren't always really free.

    https://www.superantispyware.com/downloadfile.html?productid=SUPERANTISPYWAREFREE

    *******

    https://www.avast.com/installation-files

    The online one would be a small stub, then it is going to do 600MB of
    downloads, every time you install it.

    The offline installer is a 600MB download, and every time you install
    it, it will be out of date. The difference is, to bring itself back
    up-to-date, it will be loading components as needed. Maybe the definitions >>> are 100MB, every time you install it.

    The offline choice is the better value, to me, but I don't know
    that for a fact. It's just a strategy.

        Paul


    Here's the 780 with all the A/V

    https://postimg.cc/GTY1Y2fQ

    I successfully completed the img burn of the  ISO and started to verified it.
    but then it got this.

    https://postimg.cc/3k5sMYqM

    https://postimg.cc/5YTPwmdc

    https://postimg.cc/qzdw4qpG

    So this DVD+RDL is also toast? I only have (3) left. Should I order
    more ?

    Robert

    We're going to slow down a bit. No point wasting media.

    https://alternativeto.net/software/nero-infotool/

    I don't want any TrialWare. https://www.videohelp.com/software/DVDInfoPro/old-versions

    I have included pictures of the DVDInfoPro for comparison to Nero Infotool.

    (the LightScribe on the oldest drive, only burns labels on LightScribe-equipped blanks)
    (The utility does not recognize M-Disc capability in the drive.)

    *******************************************

    We'll try the free Nero Infotool.

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/nero_infotool.html

    Name: nero11infotool-11.0.00500.exe
    Size: 32,596,208 bytes (31 MiB)
    SHA256: 8982963C675E39B37B921F5D917439E4A87C81E28CA9BEE88CFCEF521249424F

    # Virustotal behavior section does not look all that good, behavior is mired in history.
    # In other words, it is not malware, it installs a VS Runtime (that's OK), but the
    # other behaviors don't look all that wonderful. It looks like it installs unnecessary patches.

    https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/8982963c675e39b37b921f5d917439e4a87c81e28ca9bee88cfcef521249424f/behavior

    That raises the question of how best to test it. I tried it in a VM,
    and used a USB to IDE for passthru for one optical drive, and
    USB to SATA for passthru of my brand new optical drive (which will
    serve as a reference for what a modern drive looks like).

    It turns out, the drive that is at least 10-12 years old, is as
    compatible as the 1 year old drive.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/hjCpDv7L/check-your-DVD-drive.gif

    Imgburn really should warn you, if the media label is not
    being recognized and it was forced to go to "full power"
    for the burn.

    Maybe we'll get lucky and Nero will say a feature is missing
    and we will have an answer.

    There aren't a lot of DVD drive models to choose from. It
    depends on the retailer as to how much choice is left.

    Paul


    I remember using Nero a long time ago,...

    I've never heard of TrialWare or know what it is?

    I don't see your pics for comparison via Nero

    I downloaded Nero to the 780, but it never finish's
    completely and installs a icon on the desktop.

    I clicked the virustotal link and it seems to show allot
    of data relating to Nero but I have no idea what I'm
    suppose to be looking for?

    So you want me to test my DVD-RDL's to see if
    they are bad? btw I ordered 5 more off of eBay.

    At this point can I export/import my bookmarks and
    copy/paste My Documents to the 780?

    Robert







    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Jan 4 06:17:22 2024
    On 1/4/2024 1:48 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Here's the 780 with all the A/V

    https://postimg.cc/GTY1Y2fQ

    I successfully completed the img burn of the  ISO and started to verified it.
    but then it got this.

    https://postimg.cc/3k5sMYqM

    https://postimg.cc/5YTPwmdc

    https://postimg.cc/qzdw4qpG

    So this DVD+RDL is also toast? I only have (3) left. Should I order
    more ?

    Robert

    We're going to slow down a bit. No point wasting media.

    https://alternativeto.net/software/nero-infotool/

    I don't want any TrialWare.
    https://www.videohelp.com/software/DVDInfoPro/old-versions

    I have included pictures of the DVDInfoPro for comparison to Nero Infotool. >>
    (the LightScribe on the oldest drive, only burns labels on LightScribe-equipped blanks)
    (The utility does not recognize M-Disc capability in the drive.)

    *******************************************

    We'll try the free Nero Infotool.

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/nero_infotool.html

        Name: nero11infotool-11.0.00500.exe
        Size: 32,596,208 bytes (31 MiB)
        SHA256: 8982963C675E39B37B921F5D917439E4A87C81E28CA9BEE88CFCEF521249424F

        # Virustotal behavior section does not look all that good, behavior is mired in history.
        # In other words, it is not malware, it installs a VS Runtime (that's OK), but the
        # other behaviors don't look all that wonderful. It looks like it installs unnecessary patches.

        https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/8982963c675e39b37b921f5d917439e4a87c81e28ca9bee88cfcef521249424f/behavior

    That raises the question of how best to test it. I tried it in a VM,
    and used a USB to IDE for passthru for one optical drive, and
    USB to SATA for passthru of my brand new optical drive (which will
    serve as a reference for what a modern drive looks like).

    It turns out, the drive that is at least 10-12 years old, is as
    compatible as the 1 year old drive.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/hjCpDv7L/check-your-DVD-drive.gif

    Imgburn really should warn you, if the media label is not
    being recognized and it was forced to go to "full power"
    for the burn.

    Maybe we'll get lucky and Nero will say a feature is missing
    and we will have an answer.

    There aren't a lot of DVD drive models to choose from. It
    depends on the retailer as to how much choice is left.

        Paul


    I remember using Nero a long time ago,...

    I've never heard of TrialWare or know what it is?

    I don't see your pics for comparison via Nero

    I downloaded Nero to the 780, but it never finish's
    completely and installs a icon on the desktop.

    I clicked the virustotal link and it seems to show allot
    of data relating to Nero but I have no idea what I'm
    suppose to be looking for?

    So you want me to test my DVD-RDL's to see if
    they are bad? btw I ordered 5 more off of eBay.

    At this point can I export/import my bookmarks and
    copy/paste My Documents to the 780?

    Robert

    TrialWare is software that runs for a limited period. If you
    want to use it after seven days, you buy a license.

    The DVDInfoPro used to have a free version, and all I wanted
    was just the flags that say what the drive claims it can burn.

    Nero offers a burning kit. That was a commercial software you buy.
    But if also included a free utility from the cdspeed2000 site. This
    is unlikely to be the former utility, and looks like a re-write.
    It's still free. It is an Information Tool, so it does not burn
    anything.

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/nero_infotool.html

    Name: nero11infotool-11.0.00500.exe
    Size: 32,596,208 bytes (31 MiB)
    SHA256: 8982963C675E39B37B921F5D917439E4A87C81E28CA9BEE88CFCEF521249424F

    The program window at the bottom of this one, shows how it identifies a DVD drive.
    These utilities also include flags only seen on drives like BluRay.
    And a DVD drive won't have any BluRay flags ticked. BLuRay burns all three types (CD,DVD,BD).

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/hjCpDv7L/check-your-DVD-drive.gif

    I also tried identifying the media in a test.

    https://www.videohelp.com/download/dvd_identifier_520.zip

    # The developer used this as a staging area. Version 520 is the last version. 900 ADIP labels in db.

    https://dvdidentifier.cdfreaks.com/

    # Program installs (not portable). Insert media in tray after the red text appears.
    # Select the drive from the pulldown menu near the top.
    # Click the "Identify" on the right.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/76zGCKBY/DVD-Identifier-example.gif

    Mitsubishi Kagaku Media MKM 001

    *******

    But as it turns out, IMGBurn implicitly contains all this information anyway. It reports in the right pane, on the blank media in the tray, when you are using the upper left choice of the six icons.

    If you use IMGBurn, look closely at the media report.

    I have three sample drives here. Only the middle one, seems
    to know what it is doing. The right most one comes in second
    place. The left one (oldest) is "mostly clueless". The left one will
    likely burn a little too fast.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/fR8hGF4t/IMGBurn-burn-advice.gif

    Of the bunch of info collected in the example, given the media
    failure, I would set the burn speed dropdown to 2.4x for my second try.

    DVD writers have programmable laser strength. The ADIP contains
    info on "recommended" burn conditions. Erasing, writing, and reading,
    all use the appropriate laser color, but at different strengths.
    The reading likely uses the weakest laser setting.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Jan 4 08:00:39 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/4/2024 1:48 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Here's the 780 with all the A/V

    https://postimg.cc/GTY1Y2fQ

    I successfully completed the img burn of the  ISO and started to verified it.
    but then it got this.

    https://postimg.cc/3k5sMYqM

    https://postimg.cc/5YTPwmdc

    https://postimg.cc/qzdw4qpG

    So this DVD+RDL is also toast? I only have (3) left. Should I order
    more ?

    Robert

    We're going to slow down a bit. No point wasting media.

    https://alternativeto.net/software/nero-infotool/

    I don't want any TrialWare.
    https://www.videohelp.com/software/DVDInfoPro/old-versions

    I have included pictures of the DVDInfoPro for comparison to Nero Infotool. >>>
    (the LightScribe on the oldest drive, only burns labels on LightScribe-equipped blanks)
    (The utility does not recognize M-Disc capability in the drive.)

    *******************************************

    We'll try the free Nero Infotool.

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/nero_infotool.html

        Name: nero11infotool-11.0.00500.exe
        Size: 32,596,208 bytes (31 MiB)
        SHA256: 8982963C675E39B37B921F5D917439E4A87C81E28CA9BEE88CFCEF521249424F

        # Virustotal behavior section does not look all that good, behavior is mired in history.
        # In other words, it is not malware, it installs a VS Runtime (that's OK), but the
        # other behaviors don't look all that wonderful. It looks like it installs unnecessary patches.

        https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/8982963c675e39b37b921f5d917439e4a87c81e28ca9bee88cfcef521249424f/behavior

    That raises the question of how best to test it. I tried it in a VM,
    and used a USB to IDE for passthru for one optical drive, and
    USB to SATA for passthru of my brand new optical drive (which will
    serve as a reference for what a modern drive looks like).

    It turns out, the drive that is at least 10-12 years old, is as
    compatible as the 1 year old drive.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/hjCpDv7L/check-your-DVD-drive.gif

    Imgburn really should warn you, if the media label is not
    being recognized and it was forced to go to "full power"
    for the burn.

    Maybe we'll get lucky and Nero will say a feature is missing
    and we will have an answer.

    There aren't a lot of DVD drive models to choose from. It
    depends on the retailer as to how much choice is left.

        Paul


    I remember using Nero a long time ago,...

    I've never heard of TrialWare or know what it is?

    I don't see your pics for comparison via Nero

    I downloaded Nero to the 780, but it never finish's
    completely and installs a icon on the desktop.

    I clicked the virustotal link and it seems to show allot
    of data relating to Nero but I have no idea what I'm
    suppose to be looking for?

    So you want me to test my DVD-RDL's to see if
    they are bad? btw I ordered 5 more off of eBay.

    At this point can I export/import my bookmarks and
    copy/paste My Documents to the 780?

    Robert

    TrialWare is software that runs for a limited period. If you
    want to use it after seven days, you buy a license.

    The DVDInfoPro used to have a free version, and all I wanted
    was just the flags that say what the drive claims it can burn.

    Nero offers a burning kit. That was a commercial software you buy.
    But if also included a free utility from the cdspeed2000 site. This
    is unlikely to be the former utility, and looks like a re-write.
    It's still free. It is an Information Tool, so it does not burn
    anything.

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/nero_infotool.html

    Name: nero11infotool-11.0.00500.exe
    Size: 32,596,208 bytes (31 MiB)
    SHA256: 8982963C675E39B37B921F5D917439E4A87C81E28CA9BEE88CFCEF521249424F

    The program window at the bottom of this one, shows how it identifies a DVD drive.
    These utilities also include flags only seen on drives like BluRay.
    And a DVD drive won't have any BluRay flags ticked. BLuRay burns all three types (CD,DVD,BD).

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/hjCpDv7L/check-your-DVD-drive.gif

    I also tried identifying the media in a test.

    https://www.videohelp.com/download/dvd_identifier_520.zip

    # The developer used this as a staging area. Version 520 is the last version. 900 ADIP labels in db.

    https://dvdidentifier.cdfreaks.com/

    # Program installs (not portable). Insert media in tray after the red text appears.
    # Select the drive from the pulldown menu near the top.
    # Click the "Identify" on the right.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/76zGCKBY/DVD-Identifier-example.gif

    Mitsubishi Kagaku Media MKM 001

    *******

    But as it turns out, IMGBurn implicitly contains all this information anyway. It reports in the right pane, on the blank media in the tray, when you are using the upper left choice of the six icons.

    If you use IMGBurn, look closely at the media report.

    I have three sample drives here. Only the middle one, seems
    to know what it is doing. The right most one comes in second
    place. The left one (oldest) is "mostly clueless". The left one will
    likely burn a little too fast.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/fR8hGF4t/IMGBurn-burn-advice.gif

    Of the bunch of info collected in the example, given the media
    failure, I would set the burn speed dropdown to 2.4x for my second try.

    DVD writers have programmable laser strength. The ADIP contains
    info on "recommended" burn conditions. Erasing, writing, and reading,
    all use the appropriate laser color, but at different strengths.
    The reading likely uses the weakest laser setting.

    Paul



    I downloaded Nero but again it didn't put a icon
    on the desktop but I verified it was in the Apps.
    After some back and forth I managed to get it to
    run.

    https://postimg.cc/Wt5znvvT

    https://postimg.cc/MfHW4nSx

    https://postimg.cc/d79wV2Qw

    https://postimg.cc/1nthRbYr

    https://postimg.cc/N9LSvm5N

    https://postimg.cc/R3ZbwKQM

    I then downloaded the DVDIdentifier App and it left
    a desktop icon and ran it:

    https://postimg.cc/21zHfht4

    https://postimg.cc/t7cZbjmD

    https://postimg.cc/SXmjdNJQ

    Robert



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Jan 4 08:08:23 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/4/2024 1:48 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Here's the 780 with all the A/V

    https://postimg.cc/GTY1Y2fQ

    I successfully completed the img burn of the  ISO and started to verified it.
    but then it got this.

    https://postimg.cc/3k5sMYqM

    https://postimg.cc/5YTPwmdc

    https://postimg.cc/qzdw4qpG

    So this DVD+RDL is also toast? I only have (3) left. Should I order
    more ?

    Robert

    We're going to slow down a bit. No point wasting media.

    https://alternativeto.net/software/nero-infotool/

    I don't want any TrialWare.
    https://www.videohelp.com/software/DVDInfoPro/old-versions

    I have included pictures of the DVDInfoPro for comparison to Nero Infotool. >>>
    (the LightScribe on the oldest drive, only burns labels on LightScribe-equipped blanks)
    (The utility does not recognize M-Disc capability in the drive.)

    *******************************************

    We'll try the free Nero Infotool.

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/nero_infotool.html

        Name: nero11infotool-11.0.00500.exe
        Size: 32,596,208 bytes (31 MiB)
        SHA256: 8982963C675E39B37B921F5D917439E4A87C81E28CA9BEE88CFCEF521249424F

        # Virustotal behavior section does not look all that good, behavior is mired in history.
        # In other words, it is not malware, it installs a VS Runtime (that's OK), but the
        # other behaviors don't look all that wonderful. It looks like it installs unnecessary patches.

        https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/8982963c675e39b37b921f5d917439e4a87c81e28ca9bee88cfcef521249424f/behavior

    That raises the question of how best to test it. I tried it in a VM,
    and used a USB to IDE for passthru for one optical drive, and
    USB to SATA for passthru of my brand new optical drive (which will
    serve as a reference for what a modern drive looks like).

    It turns out, the drive that is at least 10-12 years old, is as
    compatible as the 1 year old drive.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/hjCpDv7L/check-your-DVD-drive.gif

    Imgburn really should warn you, if the media label is not
    being recognized and it was forced to go to "full power"
    for the burn.

    Maybe we'll get lucky and Nero will say a feature is missing
    and we will have an answer.

    There aren't a lot of DVD drive models to choose from. It
    depends on the retailer as to how much choice is left.

        Paul


    I remember using Nero a long time ago,...

    I've never heard of TrialWare or know what it is?

    I don't see your pics for comparison via Nero

    I downloaded Nero to the 780, but it never finish's
    completely and installs a icon on the desktop.

    I clicked the virustotal link and it seems to show allot
    of data relating to Nero but I have no idea what I'm
    suppose to be looking for?

    So you want me to test my DVD-RDL's to see if
    they are bad? btw I ordered 5 more off of eBay.

    At this point can I export/import my bookmarks and
    copy/paste My Documents to the 780?

    Robert

    TrialWare is software that runs for a limited period. If you
    want to use it after seven days, you buy a license.

    The DVDInfoPro used to have a free version, and all I wanted
    was just the flags that say what the drive claims it can burn.

    Nero offers a burning kit. That was a commercial software you buy.
    But if also included a free utility from the cdspeed2000 site. This
    is unlikely to be the former utility, and looks like a re-write.
    It's still free. It is an Information Tool, so it does not burn
    anything.

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/nero_infotool.html

    Name: nero11infotool-11.0.00500.exe
    Size: 32,596,208 bytes (31 MiB)
    SHA256: 8982963C675E39B37B921F5D917439E4A87C81E28CA9BEE88CFCEF521249424F

    The program window at the bottom of this one, shows how it identifies a DVD drive.
    These utilities also include flags only seen on drives like BluRay.
    And a DVD drive won't have any BluRay flags ticked. BLuRay burns all three types (CD,DVD,BD).

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/hjCpDv7L/check-your-DVD-drive.gif

    I also tried identifying the media in a test.

    https://www.videohelp.com/download/dvd_identifier_520.zip

    # The developer used this as a staging area. Version 520 is the last version. 900 ADIP labels in db.

    https://dvdidentifier.cdfreaks.com/

    # Program installs (not portable). Insert media in tray after the red text appears.
    # Select the drive from the pulldown menu near the top.
    # Click the "Identify" on the right.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/76zGCKBY/DVD-Identifier-example.gif

    Mitsubishi Kagaku Media MKM 001

    *******

    But as it turns out, IMGBurn implicitly contains all this information anyway. It reports in the right pane, on the blank media in the tray, when you are using the upper left choice of the six icons.

    If you use IMGBurn, look closely at the media report.

    I have three sample drives here. Only the middle one, seems
    to know what it is doing. The right most one comes in second
    place. The left one (oldest) is "mostly clueless". The left one will
    likely burn a little too fast.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/fR8hGF4t/IMGBurn-burn-advice.gif

    Of the bunch of info collected in the example, given the media
    failure, I would set the burn speed dropdown to 2.4x for my second try.

    DVD writers have programmable laser strength. The ADIP contains
    info on "recommended" burn conditions. Erasing, writing, and reading,
    all use the appropriate laser color, but at different strengths.
    The reading likely uses the weakest laser setting.

    Paul



    I was reading through the DVD_Indentifier and my DVD_RDL's were made in
    2009! So they are too old to work? I did order more off ebay but it may
    have the same problem and Newegg cancelled my order and I can't use
    Amazon because of a mess up with my account there that they never
    resolved with RAM still in the basket but not paid for an unable to
    delete it. They were suppose to contact me but never did.

    So what to do?

    Robert


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Jan 5 02:08:07 2024
    On 1/4/2024 11:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I downloaded Nero but again it didn't put a icon
    on the desktop but I verified it was in the Apps.
    After some back and forth I managed to get it to
    run.

    https://postimg.cc/Wt5znvvT # Nero Infotool install

    https://postimg.cc/MfHW4nSx # W10 Apps & Features

    https://postimg.cc/d79wV2Qw # W10 Apps & Features

    https://postimg.cc/1nthRbYr # TSSTCorp TS-H653G DW10

    https://postimg.cc/N9LSvm5N # TSSTCorp TS-H653G DW10

    https://postimg.cc/R3ZbwKQM # Attempt at a drag-n-drop burn???

    I then downloaded the DVDIdentifier App and it left
    a desktop icon and ran it:

    https://postimg.cc/21zHfht4 # DVD Identifier icon

    https://postimg.cc/t7cZbjmD # Running, need to click Identify button

    https://postimg.cc/SXmjdNJQ # MKM-003-00 media, newer than my MKM-001-00 media

    Robert

    Your drive: TSSTCorp TS-H653G DW10
    Your media: MKM-003-00 (Mine is MKM-001-00)

    Once you have the media label, you can Google for info.

    https://forum.imgburn.com/topic/23806-failing-on-verification-using-verbatim-mkm-003/

    Now, that's the sort of feedback you'd get in the old days.

    Not all drives have firmware updates. Some never got a second file.

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=cnmp3

    "This package provides the Firmware update for TSST TS-H653G 16X DVD+/-RW SATA

    Version DW10, A02
    Release date 05 Jun 2013
    Download Type Firmware
    "

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r283463

    "TSST TS-H653G 16X DVD+/-RW SATA HH, v.DW20, A03

    Version DW20, A03
    Release date 18 Oct 2010
    Download Type Firmware
    "

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360 <=== Verify details

    "This package provides the TSST TS-H653G 16X DVD+/-RW SATA HH Firmware Update

    Version DW30, A04
    Release date 12 Jul 2011
    Download Type Firmware
    "

    This site lists available firmware, and the DW30 is the latest by their determination.

    https://www.firmwarehq.com/Samsung/TS-H653G/files.html

    "Version Date desc Filename
    DW30 12th July, 2011 R306360.exe <=== Latest I can find
    DW20 18th October, 2010 R283463.exe
    SB00 31st July, 2009 TS-H653G_SB00.exe
    DW10 12th July, 2009 R227071.exe <=== you are at this level

    And a KProbe scan uses a Liteon drive, might have been
    the requirement. There are a couple levels of error detection,
    and Liteon made available a level of uncorrected errors or
    something, and that is how the forum people (cdfreaks.com)
    used to measure burn results.

    This uses one of the other error indicators. I can't get this
    to do a scan for error rate. It dims out the Start button if
    you try to do an error scan. I'm pretty sure I don't have
    the drive hardware features it wants.

    https://www.afterdawn.com/software/cd_dvd/dvd_tools/nero_cd_speed.cfm

    Name: NeroCDSpeed_47716.zip
    Size: 1,071,735 bytes (1046 KiB)
    SHA256: 2655F1468B9675C9EFC3CD0B720659F7059A5FE34345D120ED84065665721C2F

    The thing about the info in the drive internal database, you can never
    be sure how good of a job the firmware people do on them. I've
    had drives before where the very first thing you did, was
    flash upgrade them, because the drive was released before
    the database was available for it.

    I don't enjoy firmware updating any more than anyone else.
    But at least the Dell flasher should be a bit more intelligent
    than some of the ones I've used in the past (they will only
    flash the optical drive, if it was on a certain ribbon cable
    and connector).

    Summary: Update drive firmware first, then burn a second disk at 2.4x .
    It is unlikely a speed change alone during burn, will fix it.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Jan 5 05:59:20 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/4/2024 11:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I downloaded Nero but again it didn't put a icon
    on the desktop but I verified it was in the Apps.
    After some back and forth I managed to get it to
    run.

    https://postimg.cc/Wt5znvvT # Nero Infotool install

    https://postimg.cc/MfHW4nSx # W10 Apps & Features

    https://postimg.cc/d79wV2Qw # W10 Apps & Features

    https://postimg.cc/1nthRbYr # TSSTCorp TS-H653G DW10

    https://postimg.cc/N9LSvm5N # TSSTCorp TS-H653G DW10

    https://postimg.cc/R3ZbwKQM # Attempt at a drag-n-drop burn???

    I then downloaded the DVDIdentifier App and it left
    a desktop icon and ran it:

    https://postimg.cc/21zHfht4 # DVD Identifier icon

    https://postimg.cc/t7cZbjmD # Running, need to click Identify button

    https://postimg.cc/SXmjdNJQ # MKM-003-00 media, newer than my MKM-001-00 media

    Robert

    Your drive: TSSTCorp TS-H653G DW10
    Your media: MKM-003-00 (Mine is MKM-001-00)

    Once you have the media label, you can Google for info.

    https://forum.imgburn.com/topic/23806-failing-on-verification-using-verbatim-mkm-003/

    Now, that's the sort of feedback you'd get in the old days.

    Not all drives have firmware updates. Some never got a second file.

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=cnmp3

    "This package provides the Firmware update for TSST TS-H653G 16X DVD+/-RW SATA

    Version DW10, A02
    Release date 05 Jun 2013
    Download Type Firmware
    "

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r283463

    "TSST TS-H653G 16X DVD+/-RW SATA HH, v.DW20, A03

    Version DW20, A03
    Release date 18 Oct 2010
    Download Type Firmware
    "

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360 <=== Verify details

    "This package provides the TSST TS-H653G 16X DVD+/-RW SATA HH Firmware Update

    Version DW30, A04
    Release date 12 Jul 2011
    Download Type Firmware
    "

    This site lists available firmware, and the DW30 is the latest by their determination.

    https://www.firmwarehq.com/Samsung/TS-H653G/files.html

    "Version Date desc Filename
    DW30 12th July, 2011 R306360.exe <=== Latest I can find
    DW20 18th October, 2010 R283463.exe
    SB00 31st July, 2009 TS-H653G_SB00.exe
    DW10 12th July, 2009 R227071.exe <=== you are at this level

    And a KProbe scan uses a Liteon drive, might have been
    the requirement. There are a couple levels of error detection,
    and Liteon made available a level of uncorrected errors or
    something, and that is how the forum people (cdfreaks.com)
    used to measure burn results.

    This uses one of the other error indicators. I can't get this
    to do a scan for error rate. It dims out the Start button if
    you try to do an error scan. I'm pretty sure I don't have
    the drive hardware features it wants.

    https://www.afterdawn.com/software/cd_dvd/dvd_tools/nero_cd_speed.cfm

    Name: NeroCDSpeed_47716.zip
    Size: 1,071,735 bytes (1046 KiB)
    SHA256: 2655F1468B9675C9EFC3CD0B720659F7059A5FE34345D120ED84065665721C2F

    The thing about the info in the drive internal database, you can never
    be sure how good of a job the firmware people do on them. I've
    had drives before where the very first thing you did, was
    flash upgrade them, because the drive was released before
    the database was available for it.

    I don't enjoy firmware updating any more than anyone else.
    But at least the Dell flasher should be a bit more intelligent
    than some of the ones I've used in the past (they will only
    flash the optical drive, if it was on a certain ribbon cable
    and connector).

    Summary: Update drive firmware first, then burn a second disk at 2.4x .
    It is unlikely a speed change alone during burn, will fix it.

    Paul








    Did you see that not only will Google not allow any posting after 2-22-24
    but Usenet content will not appear. Does that mean Seamonkey? If so, I
    won't be able to see your posts and you won't be able to see mine?

    I get this pop-up every time I logon to the 780 ; I select FF as my
    homepage
    and click don't show this message again but it always come back.

    https://postimg.cc/Z09NT9Tv

    https://postimg.cc/xkcfKzpK

    https://postimg.cc/fJyM4XZ1

    Also I still don't have a home page icon in FF (about:blank) I followed
    your
    instructions.

    I tried your first link but it wasn't compatible. I tried the second
    link and it worked but what is F/W file: ? where do I find it? I tried browsing for R227071 but it wouldn't let me enter it so I don't know how
    to proceed to run the download.

    https://postimg.cc/wy1k80f7

    https://postimg.cc/bD49zkWL

    https://postimg.cc/Z0yLwsvQ

    https://postimg.cc/75X15pj5

    https://postimg.cc/Fkj3Nqjs

    https://postimg.cc/vDWV1JVG

    https://postimg.cc/nXLjPMwL

    https://postimg.cc/0KfjtqYm

    https://postimg.cc/nC9cj75B

    https://postimg.cc/1nzy9Nwg

    The second and third link were not compatible and I got a red download
    warning on the 780 not to download the Nero application so I didn't.



    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Jan 6 15:36:41 2024
    On 1/5/2024 8:59 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/4/2024 11:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I downloaded Nero but again it didn't put a icon
    on the desktop but I verified it was in the Apps.
    After some back and forth I managed to get it to
    run.

    https://postimg.cc/Wt5znvvT    # Nero Infotool install

    https://postimg.cc/MfHW4nSx    # W10 Apps & Features

    https://postimg.cc/d79wV2Qw    # W10 Apps & Features

    https://postimg.cc/1nthRbYr    # TSSTCorp TS-H653G  DW10

    https://postimg.cc/N9LSvm5N    # TSSTCorp TS-H653G  DW10

    https://postimg.cc/R3ZbwKQM    # Attempt at a drag-n-drop burn???

    I then downloaded the DVDIdentifier App and it left
    a desktop icon and ran it:

    https://postimg.cc/21zHfht4     # DVD Identifier icon

    https://postimg.cc/t7cZbjmD     # Running, need to click Identify button

    https://postimg.cc/SXmjdNJQ     # MKM-003-00 media, newer than my MKM-001-00 media

    Robert

    Your drive:  TSSTCorp TS-H653G  DW10
    Your media:  MKM-003-00               (Mine is MKM-001-00)

    Once you have the media label, you can Google for info.

        https://forum.imgburn.com/topic/23806-failing-on-verification-using-verbatim-mkm-003/

    Now, that's the sort of feedback you'd get in the old days.

    Not all drives have firmware updates. Some never got a second file.

        https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=cnmp3

           "This package provides the Firmware update for TSST TS-H653G 16X DVD+/-RW SATA

            Version       DW10, A02
            Release date  05 Jun 2013
            Download Type Firmware
           "

        https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r283463

           "TSST TS-H653G 16X DVD+/-RW SATA HH, v.DW20, A03

            Version       DW20, A03
            Release date  18 Oct 2010
            Download Type Firmware
           "

        https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360    <=== Verify details

           "This package provides the TSST TS-H653G 16X DVD+/-RW SATA HH Firmware Update

            Version       DW30, A04
            Release date  12 Jul 2011
            Download Type Firmware
           "

        This site lists available firmware, and the DW30 is the latest by their determination.

        https://www.firmwarehq.com/Samsung/TS-H653G/files.html

           "Version      Date desc           Filename
            DW30      12th July, 2011        R306360.exe           <=== Latest I can find
            DW20      18th October, 2010     R283463.exe
            SB00      31st July, 2009        TS-H653G_SB00.exe
            DW10      12th July, 2009        R227071.exe           <=== you are at this level

    And a KProbe scan uses a Liteon drive, might have been
    the requirement. There are a couple levels of error detection,
    and Liteon made available a level of uncorrected errors or
    something, and that is how the forum people (cdfreaks.com)
    used to measure burn results.

    This uses one of the other error indicators. I can't get this
    to do a scan for error rate. It dims out the Start button if
    you try to do an error scan. I'm pretty sure I don't have
    the drive hardware features it wants.

         https://www.afterdawn.com/software/cd_dvd/dvd_tools/nero_cd_speed.cfm

            Name: NeroCDSpeed_47716.zip
            Size: 1,071,735 bytes (1046 KiB)
            SHA256: 2655F1468B9675C9EFC3CD0B720659F7059A5FE34345D120ED84065665721C2F

    The thing about the info in the drive internal database, you can never
    be sure how good of a job the firmware people do on them. I've
    had drives before where the very first thing you did, was
    flash upgrade them, because the drive was released before
    the database was available for it.

    I don't enjoy firmware updating any more than anyone else.
    But at least the Dell flasher should be a bit more intelligent
    than some of the ones I've used in the past (they will only
    flash the optical drive, if it was on a certain ribbon cable
    and connector).

    Summary: Update drive firmware first, then burn a second disk at 2.4x .
              It is unlikely a speed change alone during burn, will fix it.

        Paul

    Did you see that not only will Google not allow any posting after 2-22-24
    but Usenet content will not appear. Does that mean Seamonkey? If so, I
    won't be able to see your posts and you won't be able to see mine?

    I get this pop-up every time I logon to the 780 ; I select FF as my homepage and click don't show this message again but it always come back.

    https://postimg.cc/Z09NT9Tv # Firefox default browser prompt

    https://postimg.cc/xkcfKzpK # Default App interface; showing MSEdge as you would expect

    https://postimg.cc/fJyM4XZ1 # Logged as TEMP, should not matter for browser selection, should have worked

    Also I still don't have a home page icon in FF (about:blank) I followed your instructions.

    I tried your first link but it wasn't compatible.  I tried the second link and it worked  but what is F/W file: ? where do I find it? I tried browsing for R227071 but it wouldn't let me enter it so I don't know how to proceed to run the download.

    https://postimg.cc/wy1k80f7 # Search term should be a bit shorter TS-H653G

    https://postimg.cc/bD49zkWL

    https://postimg.cc/Z0yLwsvQ

    https://postimg.cc/75X15pj5 # R227071 claimed latest, already loaded

    https://postimg.cc/Fkj3Nqjs # loading R227071, replacing DW10 with DW10

    https://postimg.cc/vDWV1JVG # Dell compatibility dialog, driver release info

    https://postimg.cc/nXLjPMwL # Dell unpacks to C:\dell\drivers\R227071\

    https://postimg.cc/0KfjtqYm # (create dir)

    https://postimg.cc/nC9cj75B # All files unpacked

    https://postimg.cc/1nzy9Nwg # Flasher running, does not seem to have FW file

    The second and third link were not compatible and
    I got a red download warning on the 780 not to download
    the Nero application so I didn't.

    Robert

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360

    Name: R306360-TS-H653G-DW30.exe
    Size: 1910856 bytes (1866 KiB)
    SHA256: 786F6FB27FB9AD631C0309EE595F440C82A531D43C7C1A0C59172E134B028D49

    [Picture] Flashing it, I'm not sure that is helping (yet)

    https://i.postimg.cc/gJGVrjTt/TS-H653G.gif

    *******

    Compare the profile you see for your MKM-003 versus the center picture here.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/vTSxLFr5/MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif

    I have to download an ISO to test.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Jan 6 18:55:08 2024
    On 1/6/2024 3:36 PM, Paul wrote:

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360

    Name: R306360-TS-H653G-DW30.exe
    Size: 1910856 bytes (1866 KiB)
    SHA256: 786F6FB27FB9AD631C0309EE595F440C82A531D43C7C1A0C59172E134B028D49

    [Picture] Flashing it, I'm not sure that is helping (yet)

    https://i.postimg.cc/gJGVrjTt/TS-H653G.gif

    *******

    Compare the profile you see for your MKM-003 versus the center picture here.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/vTSxLFr5/MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif

    I have to download an ISO to test.


    [Picture] Ran a burn at 4X and it seems to be fine.

    https://i.postimg.cc/k4VQ4P26/4-X-Write-TS-H653-G-DW30-MKM-003-00.gif

    I would try setting the burn to 4X and use a blank disc.

    If your profile looks like the center of "MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif",
    then you probably don't need to flash up the drive. Since I didn't do
    the work in logical order (went up the road and got a sample qty of MKM-003 after burning DW30), I can't really compare how it would have worked
    without a firmware update. It's possible the firmware updates were
    for "stability of certain operations", rather than the more normal
    addition of media labels to database.

    According to an article I was reading, the drive can actually do
    "calibration burns" in the middle of burning a dual layer disc,
    and there is apparently an area of the disc intended for this purpose.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jan 7 04:08:19 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/6/2024 3:36 PM, Paul wrote:

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360

    Name: R306360-TS-H653G-DW30.exe
    Size: 1910856 bytes (1866 KiB)
    SHA256: 786F6FB27FB9AD631C0309EE595F440C82A531D43C7C1A0C59172E134B028D49

    [Picture] Flashing it, I'm not sure that is helping (yet)

    https://i.postimg.cc/gJGVrjTt/TS-H653G.gif

    *******

    Compare the profile you see for your MKM-003 versus the center picture here. >>
    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/vTSxLFr5/MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif

    I have to download an ISO to test.


    [Picture] Ran a burn at 4X and it seems to be fine.

    https://i.postimg.cc/k4VQ4P26/4-X-Write-TS-H653-G-DW30-MKM-003-00.gif

    I would try setting the burn to 4X and use a blank disc.

    If your profile looks like the center of "MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif",
    then you probably don't need to flash up the drive. Since I didn't do
    the work in logical order (went up the road and got a sample qty of MKM-003 after burning DW30), I can't really compare how it would have worked
    without a firmware update. It's possible the firmware updates were
    for "stability of certain operations", rather than the more normal
    addition of media labels to database.

    According to an article I was reading, the drive can actually do
    "calibration burns" in the middle of burning a dual layer disc,
    and there is apparently an area of the disc intended for this purpose.

    Paul


    We got so involved with the 780 Win10 I forgot to switch
    the hd's and do my mrimgs. So I did that on 1-5-24 then
    switched them back.

    btw, we have to set-up Win 10 for mrimgs and run one as a
    test to make sure it works before were done.

    I got my second batch of DVD+RDL's so we have (7) in total
    now we can use.

    What about Google banning Usernet posts? Are we going to be
    affected? Let me know please,

    I checked the DVD+RDL

    https://postimg.cc/CdDqSL0C

    I had to go back and find the H22 download,

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
    This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e


    I right clicked it and put it in downloads and then tried to run it at
    4X but got this

    https://postimg.cc/grvn1SyN

    then checked downloads and its only 1KB

    https://postimg.cc/342x5NGd


    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Jan 7 13:21:09 2024
    On 1/7/2024 7:08 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/6/2024 3:36 PM, Paul wrote:

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360

    Name: R306360-TS-H653G-DW30.exe
    Size: 1910856 bytes (1866 KiB)
    SHA256: 786F6FB27FB9AD631C0309EE595F440C82A531D43C7C1A0C59172E134B028D49 >>>
        [Picture]  Flashing it, I'm not sure that is helping (yet)

         https://i.postimg.cc/gJGVrjTt/TS-H653G.gif

    *******

    Compare the profile you see for your MKM-003 versus the center picture here.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/vTSxLFr5/MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif

    I have to download an ISO to test.


         [Picture]  Ran a burn at 4X and it seems to be fine.

          https://i.postimg.cc/k4VQ4P26/4-X-Write-TS-H653-G-DW30-MKM-003-00.gif

    I would try setting the burn to 4X and use a blank disc.

    If your profile looks like the center of "MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif",
    then you probably don't need to flash up the drive. Since I didn't do
    the work in logical order (went up the road and got a sample qty of MKM-003 >> after burning DW30), I can't really compare how it would have worked
    without a firmware update. It's possible the firmware updates were
    for "stability of certain operations", rather than the more normal
    addition of media labels to database.

    According to an article I was reading, the drive can actually do
    "calibration burns" in the middle of burning a dual layer disc,
    and there is apparently an area of the disc intended for this purpose.

        Paul


    We got so involved with the 780 Win10 I forgot to switch
    the hd's and do my mrimgs. So I did that on 1-5-24 then
    switched them back.

    btw, we have to set-up Win 10 for mrimgs and run one as a
    test to make sure it works before were done.

    I got my second batch of DVD+RDL's so we have (7) in total
    now we can use.

    What about Google banning Usernet posts? Are we going to be
    affected? Let me know please,

    I checked the DVD+RDL

    https://postimg.cc/CdDqSL0C

    I had to go back and find the H22 download,

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
    This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e

    I right clicked it and put it in downloads and then tried to run it at 4X but got this

    https://postimg.cc/grvn1SyN

    then checked downloads and its only 1KB

    https://postimg.cc/342x5NGd


    Robert

    It should take a significant amount of time for a 6.5GB ISO to download.
    If your browser is not tied up for an hour doing that, then something is wrong. It should not take half a second for that, it's a much longer operation.

    Here is another link. Microsoft says the link is valid for 24 hours from now.
    I don't make this stupid scheme of theirs, this is their idea of fun.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=73b5701c-f595-4bd0-a53f-fafbde537b88&e=1704737574&h=1be2b092d4edcbf85aa74e1ffcbc55164a8fab4321b79081101f76ba79571765

    If you have a sha256 program, this is the value it should return
    if you check the ISO with it. It appears the composition of the disc is
    a constant, so there is no "session number" stored inside the ISO. Every
    ISO for US-English has the same checksum.

    SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E

    *******

    You should be checking your Seamonkey/Paganini setup and making
    sure it works to your satisfaction. For that is what you'll be using
    when the Google connection is broken, and Google works in isolation.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jan 7 18:08:18 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/7/2024 7:08 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/6/2024 3:36 PM, Paul wrote:

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360

    Name: R306360-TS-H653G-DW30.exe
    Size: 1910856 bytes (1866 KiB)
    SHA256: 786F6FB27FB9AD631C0309EE595F440C82A531D43C7C1A0C59172E134B028D49 >>>>
        [Picture]  Flashing it, I'm not sure that is helping (yet)

         https://i.postimg.cc/gJGVrjTt/TS-H653G.gif

    *******

    Compare the profile you see for your MKM-003 versus the center picture here.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/vTSxLFr5/MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif

    I have to download an ISO to test.


         [Picture]  Ran a burn at 4X and it seems to be fine.

          https://i.postimg.cc/k4VQ4P26/4-X-Write-TS-H653-G-DW30-MKM-003-00.gif

    I would try setting the burn to 4X and use a blank disc.

    If your profile looks like the center of "MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif",
    then you probably don't need to flash up the drive. Since I didn't do
    the work in logical order (went up the road and got a sample qty of MKM-003 >>> after burning DW30), I can't really compare how it would have worked
    without a firmware update. It's possible the firmware updates were
    for "stability of certain operations", rather than the more normal
    addition of media labels to database.

    According to an article I was reading, the drive can actually do
    "calibration burns" in the middle of burning a dual layer disc,
    and there is apparently an area of the disc intended for this purpose.

        Paul


    We got so involved with the 780 Win10 I forgot to switch
    the hd's and do my mrimgs. So I did that on 1-5-24 then
    switched them back.

    btw, we have to set-up Win 10 for mrimgs and run one as a
    test to make sure it works before were done.

    I got my second batch of DVD+RDL's so we have (7) in total
    now we can use.

    What about Google banning Usernet posts? Are we going to be
    affected? Let me know please,

    I checked the DVD+RDL

    https://postimg.cc/CdDqSL0C

    I had to go back and find the H22 download,

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
    This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e

    I right clicked it and put it in downloads and then tried to run it at 4X but got this

    https://postimg.cc/grvn1SyN

    then checked downloads and its only 1KB

    https://postimg.cc/342x5NGd


    Robert

    It should take a significant amount of time for a 6.5GB ISO to download.
    If your browser is not tied up for an hour doing that, then something is wrong.
    It should not take half a second for that, it's a much longer operation.

    Here is another link. Microsoft says the link is valid for 24 hours from now. I don't make this stupid scheme of theirs, this is their idea of fun.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=73b5701c-f595-4bd0-a53f-fafbde537b88&e=1704737574&h=1be2b092d4edcbf85aa74e1ffcbc55164a8fab4321b79081101f76ba79571765

    If you have a sha256 program, this is the value it should return
    if you check the ISO with it. It appears the composition of the disc is
    a constant, so there is no "session number" stored inside the ISO. Every
    ISO for US-English has the same checksum.

    SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E

    *******

    You should be checking your Seamonkey/Paganini setup and making
    sure it works to your satisfaction. For that is what you'll be using
    when the Google connection is broken, and Google works in isolation.

    Paul







    Success !!!!

    I have been using the Seamonkey/Paganini setup
    constantly now and its working as it should. In fact
    this post is via Seamonkey. So your saying were OK
    then,.. even though it says Usernet's will not be
    seen?

    I also saved your instructions for setting up Seamonkey
    Paganani in case I have any problems.


    While waiting I ran the disk cleaner but I didn't
    know what to check so I only did temporary files.
    It had downloaded program files checked so I
    unchecked it as well as thumbnails. I then ran
    de-frag.

    https://postimg.cc/PLVHtq8t

    https://postimg.cc/mz0GH6wJ

    https://postimg.cc/v1NJJSpT

    I tried again, this time it said the download would
    take 1 hr 47 minutes apprx. Afterward, I scanned the
    download for virus's and malware (hex8). Then used
    ImageBurn for H22.

    https://postimg.cc/R32Khyh2

    https://postimg.cc/5YvvCgFy

    I made (3) copies. How should I label them? Win10
    installer with the date?

    What should we do next?

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jan 7 18:18:52 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/7/2024 7:08 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/6/2024 3:36 PM, Paul wrote:

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360

    Name: R306360-TS-H653G-DW30.exe
    Size: 1910856 bytes (1866 KiB)
    SHA256: 786F6FB27FB9AD631C0309EE595F440C82A531D43C7C1A0C59172E134B028D49 >>>>
        [Picture]  Flashing it, I'm not sure that is helping (yet)

         https://i.postimg.cc/gJGVrjTt/TS-H653G.gif

    *******

    Compare the profile you see for your MKM-003 versus the center picture here.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/vTSxLFr5/MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif

    I have to download an ISO to test.


         [Picture]  Ran a burn at 4X and it seems to be fine.

          https://i.postimg.cc/k4VQ4P26/4-X-Write-TS-H653-G-DW30-MKM-003-00.gif

    I would try setting the burn to 4X and use a blank disc.

    If your profile looks like the center of "MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif",
    then you probably don't need to flash up the drive. Since I didn't do
    the work in logical order (went up the road and got a sample qty of MKM-003 >>> after burning DW30), I can't really compare how it would have worked
    without a firmware update. It's possible the firmware updates were
    for "stability of certain operations", rather than the more normal
    addition of media labels to database.

    According to an article I was reading, the drive can actually do
    "calibration burns" in the middle of burning a dual layer disc,
    and there is apparently an area of the disc intended for this purpose.

        Paul


    We got so involved with the 780 Win10 I forgot to switch
    the hd's and do my mrimgs. So I did that on 1-5-24 then
    switched them back.

    btw, we have to set-up Win 10 for mrimgs and run one as a
    test to make sure it works before were done.

    I got my second batch of DVD+RDL's so we have (7) in total
    now we can use.

    What about Google banning Usernet posts? Are we going to be
    affected? Let me know please,

    I checked the DVD+RDL

    https://postimg.cc/CdDqSL0C

    I had to go back and find the H22 download,

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
    This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e

    I right clicked it and put it in downloads and then tried to run it at 4X but got this

    https://postimg.cc/grvn1SyN

    then checked downloads and its only 1KB

    https://postimg.cc/342x5NGd


    Robert

    It should take a significant amount of time for a 6.5GB ISO to download.
    If your browser is not tied up for an hour doing that, then something is wrong.
    It should not take half a second for that, it's a much longer operation.

    Here is another link. Microsoft says the link is valid for 24 hours from now. I don't make this stupid scheme of theirs, this is their idea of fun.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=73b5701c-f595-4bd0-a53f-fafbde537b88&e=1704737574&h=1be2b092d4edcbf85aa74e1ffcbc55164a8fab4321b79081101f76ba79571765

    If you have a sha256 program, this is the value it should return
    if you check the ISO with it. It appears the composition of the disc is
    a constant, so there is no "session number" stored inside the ISO. Every
    ISO for US-English has the same checksum.

    SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E

    *******

    You should be checking your Seamonkey/Paganini setup and making
    sure it works to your satisfaction. For that is what you'll be using
    when the Google connection is broken, and Google works in isolation.

    Paul




    I saw I had 20 GB in my Recycle bin so I re-ran
    the Disk Cleaner to remove it.

    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jan 7 19:33:49 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/7/2024 7:08 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/6/2024 3:36 PM, Paul wrote:

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r306360

    Name: R306360-TS-H653G-DW30.exe
    Size: 1910856 bytes (1866 KiB)
    SHA256: 786F6FB27FB9AD631C0309EE595F440C82A531D43C7C1A0C59172E134B028D49 >>>>
        [Picture]  Flashing it, I'm not sure that is helping (yet)

         https://i.postimg.cc/gJGVrjTt/TS-H653G.gif

    *******

    Compare the profile you see for your MKM-003 versus the center picture here.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/vTSxLFr5/MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif

    I have to download an ISO to test.


         [Picture]  Ran a burn at 4X and it seems to be fine.

          https://i.postimg.cc/k4VQ4P26/4-X-Write-TS-H653-G-DW30-MKM-003-00.gif

    I would try setting the burn to 4X and use a blank disc.

    If your profile looks like the center of "MKM-003-drives-vs-media.gif",
    then you probably don't need to flash up the drive. Since I didn't do
    the work in logical order (went up the road and got a sample qty of MKM-003 >>> after burning DW30), I can't really compare how it would have worked
    without a firmware update. It's possible the firmware updates were
    for "stability of certain operations", rather than the more normal
    addition of media labels to database.

    According to an article I was reading, the drive can actually do
    "calibration burns" in the middle of burning a dual layer disc,
    and there is apparently an area of the disc intended for this purpose.

        Paul


    We got so involved with the 780 Win10 I forgot to switch
    the hd's and do my mrimgs. So I did that on 1-5-24 then
    switched them back.

    btw, we have to set-up Win 10 for mrimgs and run one as a
    test to make sure it works before were done.

    I got my second batch of DVD+RDL's so we have (7) in total
    now we can use.

    What about Google banning Usernet posts? Are we going to be
    affected? Let me know please,

    I checked the DVD+RDL

    https://postimg.cc/CdDqSL0C

    I had to go back and find the H22 download,

    Right-click this link, and Save As, into your Downloads folder.
    This is the bigger version, at 6.5GB, but should still fit on a DL DVD.
    This does not use MediaCreationTool.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=bc13bd00-ab91-4ce4-b87a-76b9d9d42b1c&e=1704204905&h=be2d07e6752b6af599dcc4177f637c64f87cff2a6ae905b537be03b81c53487e

    I right clicked it and put it in downloads and then tried to run it at 4X but got this

    https://postimg.cc/grvn1SyN

    then checked downloads and its only 1KB

    https://postimg.cc/342x5NGd


    Robert

    It should take a significant amount of time for a 6.5GB ISO to download.
    If your browser is not tied up for an hour doing that, then something is wrong.
    It should not take half a second for that, it's a much longer operation.

    Here is another link. Microsoft says the link is valid for 24 hours from now. I don't make this stupid scheme of theirs, this is their idea of fun.

    https://software.download.prss.microsoft.com/dbazure/Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso?t=73b5701c-f595-4bd0-a53f-fafbde537b88&e=1704737574&h=1be2b092d4edcbf85aa74e1ffcbc55164a8fab4321b79081101f76ba79571765

    If you have a sha256 program, this is the value it should return
    if you check the ISO with it. It appears the composition of the disc is
    a constant, so there is no "session number" stored inside the ISO. Every
    ISO for US-English has the same checksum.

    SHA256 A6F470CA6D331EB353B815C043E327A347F594F37FF525F17764738FE812852E

    *******

    You should be checking your Seamonkey/Paganini setup and making
    sure it works to your satisfaction. For that is what you'll be using
    when the Google connection is broken, and Google works in isolation.

    Paul


    From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
    because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
    we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
    I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
    So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
    its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.

    Thanks,
    Robert







    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Jan 8 00:49:47 2024
    On 1/7/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
    because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
    we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
    I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
    So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
    its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You're sending that with Seamonkey, so it looks like it is working.

    *******

    You could apply for an account here, but it does not have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general

    https://www.eternal-september.org/RegisterNewsAccount.php?language=en

    *******

    And news.mixmin.net on port 563, on a day-to-day basis is not
    functional, so it's hard to predict whether it could ever be
    used for any practical purpose.

    It requires no account. In the server settings, it needs to be
    changed from 119 to 563. And have the appropriate SSL/TLS flag flipped.
    The admin set it up that way, so post contents could not be viewed
    while messages are in transit on the Internet.

    It was not allowing posting for a while.

    The problem with mixmin seems to be related to disk space on the
    server, and the machine never has any space to work and it's
    cramped and slow as a result. The server has multiple functions,
    and USENET News is not a particular priority item. The admin checks
    his USENET server maybe once a month (that's just a rough guess
    based on symptoms).

    *******

    When I tried to get an account on Solani, I did not get a response.

    But if you want to try, go ahead. This could function as a
    second server, for days when Paganini is down (if ever).
    Paganini is available more often than Mixmin :-)
    And it might have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general .

    https://www.solani.org/

    At least they have a web page and all.

    It doesn't matter which server you send from, the message is
    distributed to all servers (servers that have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general ).

    But after Feb 24, 2024, the postings from USENET will not be on GoogleGroups. New posts won't be going there. Posts within GoogleGroups, will stay within GoogleGroups.
    |
    GoogleGroups | paganini ------- eternal-september Picture as of Feb25,2024
    | \ /
    | \ /
    | mixmin --- Solani USENET

    There are other USENET servers, in various states of dis-repair.
    One of them for example, is read-only, and when I want to check
    how bad the unfiltered spam level is out there, that's the server
    I read to check. You can see thousands of spam posts that
    the responsible server admins have filtered off.

    For the servers requiring registration and an account setup,
    those have an expiry time if you are not using the account.
    For example, I've used eternal-september for a long time, and
    by sending posts all the time, the account does not expire. But
    the administrator "harvests" accounts that are not being used,
    so the accounts will not be abused by hackers.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Jan 8 00:19:35 2024
    On 1/7/2024 9:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !!!!

    I have been using the Seamonkey/Paganini setup
    constantly now and its working as it should. In fact
    this post is via Seamonkey. So your saying were OK
    then,.. even though it says Usernet's will not be
    seen?

    I also saved your instructions for setting up Seamonkey
    Paganani in case I have any problems.


    While waiting I ran the disk cleaner but I didn't
    know what to check so I only did temporary files.
    It had downloaded program files checked so I
    unchecked it as well as thumbnails. I then ran
    de-frag.

    https://postimg.cc/PLVHtq8t # 20GB in recycle bin

    https://postimg.cc/mz0GH6wJ # 77.9GB temporary files %temp%

    https://postimg.cc/v1NJJSpT # Defrag running

    I tried again, this time it said the download would
    take 1 hr 47 minutes apprx. Afterward, I scanned the
    download for virus's and malware (hex8). Then used
    ImageBurn for H22.

    https://postimg.cc/R32Khyh2 # Download file present Win10_22H2_English_x64v1.iso

    https://postimg.cc/5YvvCgFy # Verified burn completed.

    I made (3) copies. How should I label them? Win10
    installer with the date?

    What should we do next?

    Robert

    Label:

    Win10 22H2 x64 v1 captures the essence and
    tells you which file it was made from

    Viewing the disc contents in File Explorer, you should find "Setup.exe"
    as an example of a good disc.

    That is the file you would use in the event a Repair Install is required.

    *******

    Your Recycle bin appears to have 20GB of files in it.
    Which is roughly the amount you would have from a Windows.old .

    You should have a look in the Recycle Bin and see if the
    content in there is intended or not.

    C:\Windows <=== the current operating system

    C:\Windows.old <=== this is a previous copy of an OS, and
    can be removed with "cleanmgr.exe" and the
    System button which does a second-level scan. One of
    the items if/when you have a Windows.old , would be
    listed for removal.

    Generally, it is a bad idea to be tossing Windows.old in the Trash can,
    because portions of it are "hard to remove". This is why we use CleanMgr.exe instead, as it knows how to remove Windows.old . We leave C:\Windows.old
    where it is, and if having the automation remove it is not enough fun,
    then CleanMgr.exe and the system button, will show the item as a garbage waiting for removal.

    I'm only saying this, based on "what a typical 20GB surprise contains".
    When I see a 20GB item, that's around the right size to be an old Windows folder.

    So at least verify what has been tossed in the Recycle bin.

    Once you've identified this is an ordinary discard and
    not an extraordinary one, you can clear the Recycle bin when
    you feel it is time.

    *******

    Computer programs, have a scratch area they can use. The TEMP directory.

    In command prompt window, this is %temp% and that six character string
    is an environment variable.

    That environment variable, each account has its own storage.

    C:\Users\Rob\AppData\Local\Temp
    C:\Users\Rob1\AppData\Local\Temp

    An account with Administrators, could look in any of those folders.

    There are around 78GB of files in the "TEMP" account at present, in its %temp% .

    You should have a look and decide whether they belong there or
    they were transferred from somewhere unintentionally.

    Some of the materials in %temp% are locked and can't be moved.
    They don't normally stay locked forever, and they only get locked
    when a system function is using them.

    The cleanmgr.exe , run as the TEMP account, can clean

    C:\Users\TEMP\AppData\Local\Temp

    using the first level of CleanMgr.exe . It should have an entry for
    the temporary directory.

    Those are the two items that stand out in the pictures you showed.

    It's not a big rush to clean them, but you can take a look and
    see if anything of value is there.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 8 06:27:54 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/7/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
    because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
    we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
    I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
    So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
    its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You're sending that with Seamonkey, so it looks like it is working.

    *******

    You could apply for an account here, but it does not have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general

    https://www.eternal-september.org/RegisterNewsAccount.php?language=en

    *******

    And news.mixmin.net on port 563, on a day-to-day basis is not
    functional, so it's hard to predict whether it could ever be
    used for any practical purpose.

    It requires no account. In the server settings, it needs to be
    changed from 119 to 563. And have the appropriate SSL/TLS flag flipped.
    The admin set it up that way, so post contents could not be viewed
    while messages are in transit on the Internet.

    It was not allowing posting for a while.

    The problem with mixmin seems to be related to disk space on the
    server, and the machine never has any space to work and it's
    cramped and slow as a result. The server has multiple functions,
    and USENET News is not a particular priority item. The admin checks
    his USENET server maybe once a month (that's just a rough guess
    based on symptoms).

    *******

    When I tried to get an account on Solani, I did not get a response.

    But if you want to try, go ahead. This could function as a
    second server, for days when Paganini is down (if ever).
    Paganini is available more often than Mixmin :-)
    And it might have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general .

    https://www.solani.org/

    At least they have a web page and all.

    It doesn't matter which server you send from, the message is
    distributed to all servers (servers that have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general ).

    But after Feb 24, 2024, the postings from USENET will not be on GoogleGroups. New posts won't be going there. Posts within GoogleGroups, will stay within GoogleGroups.
    |
    GoogleGroups | paganini ------- eternal-september Picture as of Feb25,2024
    | \ /
    | \ /
    | mixmin --- Solani USENET

    There are other USENET servers, in various states of dis-repair.
    One of them for example, is read-only, and when I want to check
    how bad the unfiltered spam level is out there, that's the server
    I read to check. You can see thousands of spam posts that
    the responsible server admins have filtered off.

    For the servers requiring registration and an account setup,
    those have an expiry time if you are not using the account.
    For example, I've used eternal-september for a long time, and
    by sending posts all the time, the account does not expire. But
    the administrator "harvests" accounts that are not being used,
    so the accounts will not be abused by hackers.

    Paul



    I checked the Win 10 22H2 x64 V1 disk

    https://postimg.cc/gwGFqHbX

    I was basically familiar with what was in the recycle bin
    I have been cleaning the 8500 of allot of junk over time
    trying to lean it out etc.

    That's why I'm a bit leery of using cleaners because I can
    easily screw things up. Defrag was easy.

    I keep getting this pop-up to turn on Windows backup and
    I click no thanks .

    https://postimg.cc/0rFTHsqq

    I'll try Solani,..however we should be OK with Seamonkey

    I still need instructions to make FF my home page then do
    about:blank in Win10

    We still haven't move my bookmarks or My Documents to
    Win 10, I think that's the next thing we need to do.

    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 8 09:26:02 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/7/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
    because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
    we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
    I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
    So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
    its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You're sending that with Seamonkey, so it looks like it is working.

    *******

    You could apply for an account here, but it does not have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general

    https://www.eternal-september.org/RegisterNewsAccount.php?language=en

    *******

    And news.mixmin.net on port 563, on a day-to-day basis is not
    functional, so it's hard to predict whether it could ever be
    used for any practical purpose.

    It requires no account. In the server settings, it needs to be
    changed from 119 to 563. And have the appropriate SSL/TLS flag flipped.
    The admin set it up that way, so post contents could not be viewed
    while messages are in transit on the Internet.

    It was not allowing posting for a while.

    The problem with mixmin seems to be related to disk space on the
    server, and the machine never has any space to work and it's
    cramped and slow as a result. The server has multiple functions,
    and USENET News is not a particular priority item. The admin checks
    his USENET server maybe once a month (that's just a rough guess
    based on symptoms).

    *******

    When I tried to get an account on Solani, I did not get a response.

    But if you want to try, go ahead. This could function as a
    second server, for days when Paganini is down (if ever).
    Paganini is available more often than Mixmin :-)
    And it might have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general .

    https://www.solani.org/

    At least they have a web page and all.

    It doesn't matter which server you send from, the message is
    distributed to all servers (servers that have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general ).

    But after Feb 24, 2024, the postings from USENET will not be on GoogleGroups. New posts won't be going there. Posts within GoogleGroups, will stay within GoogleGroups.
    |
    GoogleGroups | paganini ------- eternal-september Picture as of Feb25,2024
    | \ /
    | \ /
    | mixmin --- Solani USENET

    There are other USENET servers, in various states of dis-repair.
    One of them for example, is read-only, and when I want to check
    how bad the unfiltered spam level is out there, that's the server
    I read to check. You can see thousands of spam posts that
    the responsible server admins have filtered off.

    For the servers requiring registration and an account setup,
    those have an expiry time if you are not using the account.
    For example, I've used eternal-september for a long time, and
    by sending posts all the time, the account does not expire. But
    the administrator "harvests" accounts that are not being used,
    so the accounts will not be abused by hackers.

    Paul


    I applied to Solani so we'll see, but SeaMonkey is working
    fine and so we shouldn't have any problems.

    I successfully exported/imported my bookmarks to the 780
    but I need to get a 1TB Patriot to move My Documents and
    have to wait till the 24th before I can order one.

    How do I get the default FF homepage to take and all the
    pop-ups screens to stop popping up? Like the backup pop up.
    I keep saying no thanks but it keeps coming back.

    Robert






    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 8 16:29:13 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/7/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
    because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
    we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
    I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
    So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
    its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You're sending that with Seamonkey, so it looks like it is working.

    *******

    You could apply for an account here, but it does not have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general

    https://www.eternal-september.org/RegisterNewsAccount.php?language=en

    *******

    And news.mixmin.net on port 563, on a day-to-day basis is not
    functional, so it's hard to predict whether it could ever be
    used for any practical purpose.

    It requires no account. In the server settings, it needs to be
    changed from 119 to 563. And have the appropriate SSL/TLS flag flipped.
    The admin set it up that way, so post contents could not be viewed
    while messages are in transit on the Internet.

    It was not allowing posting for a while.

    The problem with mixmin seems to be related to disk space on the
    server, and the machine never has any space to work and it's
    cramped and slow as a result. The server has multiple functions,
    and USENET News is not a particular priority item. The admin checks
    his USENET server maybe once a month (that's just a rough guess
    based on symptoms).

    *******

    When I tried to get an account on Solani, I did not get a response.

    But if you want to try, go ahead. This could function as a
    second server, for days when Paganini is down (if ever).
    Paganini is available more often than Mixmin :-)
    And it might have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general .

    https://www.solani.org/

    At least they have a web page and all.

    It doesn't matter which server you send from, the message is
    distributed to all servers (servers that have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general ).

    But after Feb 24, 2024, the postings from USENET will not be on GoogleGroups. New posts won't be going there. Posts within GoogleGroups, will stay within GoogleGroups.
    |
    GoogleGroups | paganini ------- eternal-september Picture as of Feb25,2024
    | \ /
    | \ /
    | mixmin --- Solani USENET

    There are other USENET servers, in various states of dis-repair.
    One of them for example, is read-only, and when I want to check
    how bad the unfiltered spam level is out there, that's the server
    I read to check. You can see thousands of spam posts that
    the responsible server admins have filtered off.

    For the servers requiring registration and an account setup,
    those have an expiry time if you are not using the account.
    For example, I've used eternal-september for a long time, and
    by sending posts all the time, the account does not expire. But
    the administrator "harvests" accounts that are not being used,
    so the accounts will not be abused by hackers.

    Paul



    I would like to delete macrium on the 780 because I keep
    getting pop-up's to update it and install my version of macrium.
    However I don't seem to have a download for macrium?
    Could you please provide one?


    Thanks,
    Robert








    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 8 17:15:55 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/7/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
    because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
    we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
    I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
    So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
    its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You're sending that with Seamonkey, so it looks like it is working.

    *******

    You could apply for an account here, but it does not have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general

    https://www.eternal-september.org/RegisterNewsAccount.php?language=en

    *******

    And news.mixmin.net on port 563, on a day-to-day basis is not
    functional, so it's hard to predict whether it could ever be
    used for any practical purpose.

    It requires no account. In the server settings, it needs to be
    changed from 119 to 563. And have the appropriate SSL/TLS flag flipped.
    The admin set it up that way, so post contents could not be viewed
    while messages are in transit on the Internet.

    It was not allowing posting for a while.

    The problem with mixmin seems to be related to disk space on the
    server, and the machine never has any space to work and it's
    cramped and slow as a result. The server has multiple functions,
    and USENET News is not a particular priority item. The admin checks
    his USENET server maybe once a month (that's just a rough guess
    based on symptoms).

    *******

    When I tried to get an account on Solani, I did not get a response.

    But if you want to try, go ahead. This could function as a
    second server, for days when Paganini is down (if ever).
    Paganini is available more often than Mixmin :-)
    And it might have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general .

    https://www.solani.org/

    At least they have a web page and all.

    It doesn't matter which server you send from, the message is
    distributed to all servers (servers that have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general ).

    But after Feb 24, 2024, the postings from USENET will not be on GoogleGroups. New posts won't be going there. Posts within GoogleGroups, will stay within GoogleGroups.
    |
    GoogleGroups | paganini ------- eternal-september Picture as of Feb25,2024
    | \ /
    | \ /
    | mixmin --- Solani USENET

    There are other USENET servers, in various states of dis-repair.
    One of them for example, is read-only, and when I want to check
    how bad the unfiltered spam level is out there, that's the server
    I read to check. You can see thousands of spam posts that
    the responsible server admins have filtered off.

    For the servers requiring registration and an account setup,
    those have an expiry time if you are not using the account.
    For example, I've used eternal-september for a long time, and
    by sending posts all the time, the account does not expire. But
    the administrator "harvests" accounts that are not being used,
    so the accounts will not be abused by hackers.

    Paul



    I checked my email and Solani sent me this.

    https://postimg.cc/D8LsdSN9

    but I don't know how to use it?

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 9 06:25:17 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/7/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
    because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
    we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
    I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
    So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
    its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You're sending that with Seamonkey, so it looks like it is working.

    *******

    You could apply for an account here, but it does not have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general

    https://www.eternal-september.org/RegisterNewsAccount.php?language=en

    *******

    And news.mixmin.net on port 563, on a day-to-day basis is not
    functional, so it's hard to predict whether it could ever be
    used for any practical purpose.

    It requires no account. In the server settings, it needs to be
    changed from 119 to 563. And have the appropriate SSL/TLS flag flipped.
    The admin set it up that way, so post contents could not be viewed
    while messages are in transit on the Internet.

    It was not allowing posting for a while.

    The problem with mixmin seems to be related to disk space on the
    server, and the machine never has any space to work and it's
    cramped and slow as a result. The server has multiple functions,
    and USENET News is not a particular priority item. The admin checks
    his USENET server maybe once a month (that's just a rough guess
    based on symptoms).

    *******

    When I tried to get an account on Solani, I did not get a response.

    But if you want to try, go ahead. This could function as a
    second server, for days when Paganini is down (if ever).
    Paganini is available more often than Mixmin :-)
    And it might have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general .

    https://www.solani.org/

    At least they have a web page and all.

    It doesn't matter which server you send from, the message is
    distributed to all servers (servers that have microsoft.public.windowsxp.general ).

    But after Feb 24, 2024, the postings from USENET will not be on GoogleGroups. New posts won't be going there. Posts within GoogleGroups, will stay within GoogleGroups.
    |
    GoogleGroups | paganini ------- eternal-september Picture as of Feb25,2024
    | \ /
    | \ /
    | mixmin --- Solani USENET

    There are other USENET servers, in various states of dis-repair.
    One of them for example, is read-only, and when I want to check
    how bad the unfiltered spam level is out there, that's the server
    I read to check. You can see thousands of spam posts that
    the responsible server admins have filtered off.

    For the servers requiring registration and an account setup,
    those have an expiry time if you are not using the account.
    For example, I've used eternal-september for a long time, and
    by sending posts all the time, the account does not expire. But
    the administrator "harvests" accounts that are not being used,
    so the accounts will not be abused by hackers.

    Paul



    I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
    couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
    appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
    used it and I had your instructions to go by.

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Jan 9 12:36:50 2024
    On 1/8/2024 7:29 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/7/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


     From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
    because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
    we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
    I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
    So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
    its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You're sending that with Seamonkey, so it looks like it is working.

    *******

    You could apply for an account here, but it does not have  microsoft.public.windowsxp.general

    https://www.eternal-september.org/RegisterNewsAccount.php?language=en

    *******

    And  news.mixmin.net on port 563, on a day-to-day basis is not
    functional, so it's hard to predict whether it could ever be
    used for any practical purpose.

    It requires no account. In the server settings, it needs to be
    changed from 119 to 563. And have the appropriate SSL/TLS flag flipped.
    The admin set it up that way, so post contents could not be viewed
    while messages are in transit on the Internet.

    It was not allowing posting for a while.

    The problem with mixmin seems to be related to disk space on the
    server, and the machine never has any space to work and it's
    cramped and slow as a result. The server has multiple functions,
    and USENET News is not a particular priority item. The admin checks
    his USENET server maybe once a month (that's just a rough guess
    based on symptoms).

    *******

    When I tried to get an account on Solani, I did not get a response.

    But if you want to try, go ahead. This could function as a
    second server, for days when Paganini is down (if ever).
    Paganini is available more often than Mixmin :-)
    And it might have  microsoft.public.windowsxp.general .

        https://www.solani.org/

    At least they have a web page and all.

    It doesn't matter which server you send from, the message is
    distributed to all servers (servers that have  microsoft.public.windowsxp.general  ).

    But after Feb 24, 2024, the postings from USENET will not be on GoogleGroups.
    New posts won't be going there. Posts within GoogleGroups, will stay within >> GoogleGroups.
                       |
        GoogleGroups   |    paganini ------- eternal-september        Picture as of Feb25,2024
                       |        \              /
                       |         \            /
                       |       mixmin --- Solani     USENET

    There are other USENET servers, in various states of dis-repair.
    One of them for example, is read-only, and when I want to check
    how bad the unfiltered spam level is out there, that's the server
    I read to check. You can see thousands of spam posts that
    the responsible server admins have filtered off.

    For the servers requiring registration and an account setup,
    those have an expiry time if you are not using the account.
    For example, I've used eternal-september for a long time, and
    by sending posts all the time, the account does not expire. But
    the administrator "harvests" accounts that are not being used,
    so the accounts will not be abused by hackers.

        Paul



    I would like to delete macrium on the 780 because I keep
    getting pop-up's to update it and install my version of macrium.
    However I don't seem to have a download for macrium?
    Could you please provide one?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    What I have on the computer, is a bunch of files with names like this.
    Try your Agent Ransack searcher and have a look around for these. If you do Properties, the release information is in the Details tab.

    Name: reflect_setup_free_x64.exe

    Size: 115,722,168 bytes (110 MiB)

    In Agent Ransack, you can search all of C: looking for "reflect"
    as the search string (without the quotes), and then sort
    the output found via the Size column. Scroll until you see the
    110 megabyte section kind of thing. File sizes can be anywhere
    from 110 megabytes to 178 megabytes, depending on version, so
    the size will depend on which version it is. Version 8 would
    be a 178MB one.

    I think you've downloaded one of these before.

    Presumably you're looking for some particular version.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Jan 9 12:28:03 2024
    On 1/8/2024 12:26 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/7/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


     From what you say we should be OK with Seamonkey
    because its working fine. However 'if' for whatever reason
    we loose contact you have my yahoo email address because
    I saw it posted once I think when we were doing profiles.
    So if we loose contact please send me a message so I know
    its from you e.g. subj: O.T. Paul so we can stay in contact.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You're sending that with Seamonkey, so it looks like it is working.

    *******

    You could apply for an account here, but it does not have  microsoft.public.windowsxp.general

    https://www.eternal-september.org/RegisterNewsAccount.php?language=en

    *******

    And  news.mixmin.net on port 563, on a day-to-day basis is not
    functional, so it's hard to predict whether it could ever be
    used for any practical purpose.

    It requires no account. In the server settings, it needs to be
    changed from 119 to 563. And have the appropriate SSL/TLS flag flipped.
    The admin set it up that way, so post contents could not be viewed
    while messages are in transit on the Internet.

    It was not allowing posting for a while.

    The problem with mixmin seems to be related to disk space on the
    server, and the machine never has any space to work and it's
    cramped and slow as a result. The server has multiple functions,
    and USENET News is not a particular priority item. The admin checks
    his USENET server maybe once a month (that's just a rough guess
    based on symptoms).

    *******

    When I tried to get an account on Solani, I did not get a response.

    But if you want to try, go ahead. This could function as a
    second server, for days when Paganini is down (if ever).
    Paganini is available more often than Mixmin :-)
    And it might have  microsoft.public.windowsxp.general .

        https://www.solani.org/

    At least they have a web page and all.

    It doesn't matter which server you send from, the message is
    distributed to all servers (servers that have  microsoft.public.windowsxp.general  ).

    But after Feb 24, 2024, the postings from USENET will not be on GoogleGroups.
    New posts won't be going there. Posts within GoogleGroups, will stay within >> GoogleGroups.
                       |
        GoogleGroups   |    paganini ------- eternal-september        Picture as of Feb25,2024
                       |        \              /
                       |         \            /
                       |       mixmin --- Solani     USENET

    There are other USENET servers, in various states of dis-repair.
    One of them for example, is read-only, and when I want to check
    how bad the unfiltered spam level is out there, that's the server
    I read to check. You can see thousands of spam posts that
    the responsible server admins have filtered off.

    For the servers requiring registration and an account setup,
    those have an expiry time if you are not using the account.
    For example, I've used eternal-september for a long time, and
    by sending posts all the time, the account does not expire. But
    the administrator "harvests" accounts that are not being used,
    so the accounts will not be abused by hackers.

        Paul


    I applied to Solani so we'll see, but SeaMonkey is working
    fine and so we shouldn't have any problems.

    I successfully exported/imported my bookmarks to the 780
    but I need to get a 1TB Patriot to move My Documents and
    have to wait till the 24th before I can order one.

    How do I get the default FF homepage to take and all the
    pop-ups screens to stop popping up? Like the backup pop up.
    I keep saying no thanks but it keeps coming back.

    Robert


    [Picture] Settings : System : Notifications for things like Backups

    https://i.postimg.cc/RZf96X4C/W10-notifications-backup.gif

    Firefox isn't very flexible. It does not want "about: " style entries
    for homepages. So sometimes you have to edit the prefs.js to be
    able to insert an "illegal" entry. That may be how I got "about:plugins"
    to work.

    [Picture] Firefox, sometimes you need to edit prefs.js with Notepad. I got "about:plugins" to work.

    https://i.postimg.cc/CL5rQ1QW/Firefox-Blank-Home-Page.gif

    *******

    Using File Sharing, you can send files from one PC to another PC.

    You don't absolutely need external devices.

    Your machines are both likely sharing the same LAN subnet and netmask,
    so should be able to see one another.

    The following is not a tutorial, it's just what to expect while File Sharing. it does not show the login dialog while sharing.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/tTRzwq51/file-sharing-appearance.gif

    Setting up File Sharing is a pain in the ass, and frequently
    malfunctions for users. It's not that the topic is tough technically,
    but getting all the ducks lined up, is a major major chore. Seven
    services have to be running in services.msc to make it work. And so on.
    With so many moving parts, it's going to break... occasionally.
    It drives me crazy, some of the things they have done to it for no reason.

    There are days I can't get this working. Even the picture, that
    combination of "Gregore" and "Wallace", sometimes the machines
    don't show up in the menu properly. There isn't really a Troubleshooter
    for this (something that runs on two computers, checks all the
    plumbing and so on). And that's just sad.

    *******

    Both your computers have USB3 ports.

    Both your computers have backup hard drives sitting in USB3 enclosures.

    It should be easy to find a way to bring files over
    and put them in a temporary spot. For example, in the "File Sharing"
    picture above, you can see my Disk Management and the Sharing partition
    on the end, would be a place to put my temporary files if I wanted.

    Machine A ---------> Loose files in USB3 Backup drive --------> Machine B, temporary folder

    Measure the spaces required, and see if there is room on the USB3 drive
    and room on Machine B, for the payload to be delivered.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Jan 9 13:17:38 2024
    On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
    couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
    appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
    used it and I had your instructions to go by.

    Robert

    It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
    and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
    (On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Jan 9 13:15:42 2024
    On 1/8/2024 8:15 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I checked my email and Solani sent me this.

    https://postimg.cc/D8LsdSN9

    but I don't know how to use it?

    Robert

    You blotted out the password. That's a "good thing".

    https://www.solani.org/help/ <=== some of the technical detail is here

    servername: news.solani.org

    TCP-port 119 for unencrypted connections
    TCP-port 563 for encrypted connections <=== encrypt password in-flight , LetsEncrypt certificate their end
    Max Connections: 4

    It would be like setting up Paganini, except
    after you've done the initial four lines,
    you can edit some of the settings. Notice I'm
    not on Solani (but your messages will still get
    to Paganini), and so these diagrams are not
    exact replicas for a Solani setup. But these
    should give some hints as to what needs changing.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/qqk2Mkhy/seamonkey-set-up-a-password-account.gif

    Now, the first time you try to get the messages to update
    in the left pane, it's going to present a login prompt
    to Solani. Enter your password in there. Tick the
    box so the client "remembers" the password for next time.
    Try to get the password entered correctly the first time,
    with that box ticked, and things will go a lot smoother
    on subsequent sessions.

    Make sure the Solani password is written down somewhere.
    Even though it is stored in your email, you could
    lose email access and need it that day. Sometimes, due
    to server problems, the password entry thing will be
    broken, and you'll have to re-enter it the next time
    the server is working properly.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 9 12:59:02 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
    couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
    appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
    used it and I had your instructions to go by.

    Robert

    It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
    and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
    (On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)

    Paul


    I managed to get FF as my default browser on the 780
    but still haven't been able to make a homepage in Win10.
    I read somewhere that they did away with the homepage
    in Win 10, true? It sounds like I can't do about:blank in
    Win 10 but it works in Win 7

    I don't think I want to go down the sharing path, especially
    when you say setting it up is a pain in the ass. I have enough
    on my plate as is and the Patriot is simple and easy.

    The 8500 has 3.0 USB ports(blue) and the 780 has 2.0 USB
    (black)ports. We installed a PCI card with 3.0 USB ports (blue)
    on the 780 but its non-functional.

    I know there's room on the 780 because the hd is identical to
    the 8500 except there's nothing on the 780 at the moment except
    my bookmarks. It's empty except for the OS.

    Robert






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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 9 13:30:04 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
    couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
    appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
    used it and I had your instructions to go by.

    Robert

    It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
    and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
    (On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)

    Paul



    I blotted out the password and my email address just to be
    safe.

    I went to news.solani.org but have no idea what to do.
    I has Microsoft.public.Windowsxp.general listed in their
    groups but I don't know how to access it? Its saying use my
    usename and password with the news.solani.org so I entered

    news.solani.org/RobnCApassword but it didn't work.


    Yeah but I was working off of Seamonkey program where I
    clicked Windows and created a new account. I don't see anything
    like that for Solani to open. I'm not following your instructions
    for Solani, how do to access Local folder?

    Yes, the 780 has macrium but this wasn't on the 780 it was
    on the 8500 that I was trying to browse with.

    Robert



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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 9 16:19:28 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
    couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
    appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
    used it and I had your instructions to go by.

    Robert

    It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
    and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
    (On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)

    Paul



    I went back and re-read your instructions and this time I was able to
    complete the browse and copy/paste. I also managed to change the drive
    letter back from K: to I: but for some reason it didn't take and I had
    to restart the computer to remove the external hd.

    Robert



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Jan 10 04:12:13 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
    couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
    appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
    used it and I had your instructions to go by.

    Robert

    It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
    and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
    (On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)

    Paul


    This is a test on the 780 Rob 1 User Account Seamonkey
    to make sure it’s working. I had to set iot up on Rob1.

    I’ve made FF my homepage on the 780 but I still get pop-ups
    for Macrium and Windows backup. I want to delete macrium
    and download my own version but I don’t seem to have a download
    for it? Could you please provide me with one?

    Also how do I get rid of the constant Windows backup pop-up?
    I just got it again while writing this. We have the mrimgs and
    don’t really need it. Btw, once were finished with the 780 we
    should run a mrimg on Win 10 to make sure it works.

    After that we need to do the 8500 and repeat everything except it
    shouldn’t have a User Account with pin numbers unless the pin
    number account went with the Win 10 upgrade.

    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert





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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Jan 10 10:02:05 2024
    On 1/10/2024 7:12 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
    couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
    appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
    used it and I had your instructions to go by.

    Robert

    It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
    and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
    (On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)

        Paul


    This is a test on the 780 Rob 1 User Account Seamonkey
    to make sure it’s working. I had to set iot up on Rob1.

    I’ve made FF my homepage on the 780 but I still get pop-ups
    for Macrium and Windows backup. I want to delete macrium
    and download my own version but I don’t seem to have a download
    for it? Could you please provide me with one?

    Also how do I get rid of the constant Windows backup pop-up?
    I just got it again while writing this. We have the mrimgs and
    don’t really need it. Btw, once were finished with the 780 we
    should run a mrimg on Win 10 to make sure it works.

    After that we need to do the 8500 and repeat everything except it
    shouldn’t have a User Account with pin numbers unless the pin
    number account went with the Win 10 upgrade.

    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert

    This won't be available for that many more days. Test it and see.
    Save the executable to your Downloads when the dialog pops up.

    https://download.macrium.com/reflect/v7/v7.3.6391/reflect_setup_free_x64.exe

    You have made Firefox your Default Browser in Windows 10.

    Setting starting screens or tabs, would be done from inside Firefox settings. Or alternately, when it needs help, by Notepad hand-editing a setting in prefs.js .

    *******

    The Macrium and Windows Backup popups come through Notifications.

    [Picture] Settings : System : Notifications for things like Backups

    https://i.postimg.cc/RZf96X4C/W10-notifications-backup.gif

    *******

    PIN numbers only get used, if you pay attention to the "every three day" exhortation to "finish setup". I have read that someone had PIN usage
    from the very beginning, but presumably they got the full screen dialog
    to finish setup and paid attention to that.

    You should not be able to get netplwiz capability back again.
    It seems that once you start working with multiple accounts,
    the interface option to select "no password", it disappears from netplwiz dialog.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Jan 10 09:52:00 2024
    On 1/9/2024 4:30 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
    couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
    appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
    used it and I had your instructions to go by.

    Robert

    It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
    and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
    (On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)

        Paul



    I blotted out the password and my email address just to be
    safe.

    I went to news.solani.org but have no idea what to do.
    I has Microsoft.public.Windowsxp.general listed in their
    groups but I don't know how to access it? Its saying use my
    usename and password with the news.solani.org so I entered

    news.solani.org/RobnCApassword but it didn't work.


    Yeah but I was working off of Seamonkey program where I
    clicked Windows and created a new account. I don't see anything
    like that for Solani to open. I'm not following your instructions
    for Solani, how do to access Local folder?

    Yes, the 780 has macrium but this wasn't on the 780 it was
    on the 8500 that I was trying to browse with.

    Robert

    When we set up the Paganini account, we used the "Mail and Newsgroups" in Seamonkey.
    NOT the web browser portion of Seamonkey. Solani is NOT a Google Groups.

    Browsing is HTTP and done in the web browser.

    USENET is NNTP done in "Mail and Newsgroups".

    Regular email would be "Mail and Newsgroups" as POP3 or IMAP, as examples.

    The Seamonkey web browser screen, is the control panel for Seamonkey.
    From the Window menu in the web browser, is "Mail and Newsgroup" entry.
    It is through that entry, you will be setting up Solani.

    From Mail and Newsgroups window, File : New : Other Accounts and
    a dialog should appear to enter your Solani details, in the
    same way you did it for Paganini.

    Seamonkey Web browser
    | \
    (Normal browsing) \
    Window : Mail and Newsgroups (main window)
    \
    New : Other Accounts

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Jan 10 09:41:56 2024
    On 1/9/2024 3:59 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
    couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
    appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
    used it and I had your instructions to go by.

    Robert

    It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
    and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
    (On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)

        Paul


    I managed to get FF as my default browser on the 780
    but still haven't been able to make a homepage in Win10.
    I read somewhere that they did away with the homepage
    in Win 10, true? It sounds like I can't do about:blank in
    Win 10 but it works in Win 7

    I don't think I want to go down the sharing path, especially
    when you say setting it up is a pain in the ass. I have enough
    on my plate as is and the Patriot is simple and easy.

    The 8500 has 3.0 USB ports(blue) and the 780 has 2.0 USB
    (black)ports. We installed a PCI card with 3.0 USB ports (blue)
    on the 780 but its non-functional.

    I know there's room on the 780 because the hd is identical to
    the 8500 except there's nothing on the 780 at the moment except
    my bookmarks. It's empty except for the OS.

    Robert

    The USB3 card should get a driver installed automatically, on Windows 10.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Jan 10 07:02:30 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/9/2024 4:30 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
    couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
    appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
    used it and I had your instructions to go by.

    Robert

    It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
    and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
    (On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)

        Paul



    I blotted out the password and my email address just to be
    safe.

    I went to news.solani.org but have no idea what to do.
    I has Microsoft.public.Windowsxp.general listed in their
    groups but I don't know how to access it? Its saying use my
    usename and password with the news.solani.org so I entered

    news.solani.org/RobnCApassword but it didn't work.


    Yeah but I was working off of Seamonkey program where I
    clicked Windows and created a new account. I don't see anything
    like that for Solani to open. I'm not following your instructions
    for Solani, how do to access Local folder?

    Yes, the 780 has macrium but this wasn't on the 780 it was
    on the 8500 that I was trying to browse with.

    Robert

    When we set up the Paganini account, we used the "Mail and Newsgroups" in Seamonkey.
    NOT the web browser portion of Seamonkey. Solani is NOT a Google Groups.

    Browsing is HTTP and done in the web browser.

    USENET is NNTP done in "Mail and Newsgroups".

    Regular email would be "Mail and Newsgroups" as POP3 or IMAP, as examples.

    The Seamonkey web browser screen, is the control panel for Seamonkey.
    From the Window menu in the web browser, is "Mail and Newsgroup" entry.
    It is through that entry, you will be setting up Solani.

    From Mail and Newsgroups window, File : New : Other Accounts and
    a dialog should appear to enter your Solani details, in the
    same way you did it for Paganini.

    Seamonkey Web browser
    | \
    (Normal browsing) \
    Window : Mail and Newsgroups (main window)
    \
    New : Other Accounts

    Paul




    Well I installed the PCI car with the 3.0 ports
    but the molex cable had no place to plug into.
    Still, once plugged in I expected to see some
    drivers pop-up but none did.

    So could you provide a driver for it?

    I will try Solani again.....

    Robert



    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Jan 10 07:11:32 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/10/2024 7:12 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
    couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
    appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
    used it and I had your instructions to go by.

    Robert

    It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
    and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
    (On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)

        Paul


    This is a test on the 780 Rob 1 User Account Seamonkey
    to make sure it’s working. I had to set iot up on Rob1.

    I’ve made FF my homepage on the 780 but I still get pop-ups
    for Macrium and Windows backup. I want to delete macrium
    and download my own version but I don’t seem to have a download
    for it? Could you please provide me with one?

    Also how do I get rid of the constant Windows backup pop-up?
    I just got it again while writing this. We have the mrimgs and
    don’t really need it. Btw, once were finished with the 780 we
    should run a mrimg on Win 10 to make sure it works.

    After that we need to do the 8500 and repeat everything except it
    shouldn’t have a User Account with pin numbers unless the pin
    number account went with the Win 10 upgrade.

    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert

    This won't be available for that many more days. Test it and see.
    Save the executable to your Downloads when the dialog pops up.

    https://download.macrium.com/reflect/v7/v7.3.6391/reflect_setup_free_x64.exe

    You have made Firefox your Default Browser in Windows 10.

    Setting starting screens or tabs, would be done from inside Firefox settings. Or alternately, when it needs help, by Notepad hand-editing a setting in prefs.js .

    *******

    The Macrium and Windows Backup popups come through Notifications.

    [Picture] Settings : System : Notifications for things like Backups

    https://i.postimg.cc/RZf96X4C/W10-notifications-backup.gif

    *******

    PIN numbers only get used, if you pay attention to the "every three day" exhortation to "finish setup". I have read that someone had PIN usage
    from the very beginning, but presumably they got the full screen dialog
    to finish setup and paid attention to that.

    You should not be able to get netplwiz capability back again.
    It seems that once you start working with multiple accounts,
    the interface option to select "no password", it disappears from netplwiz dialog.

    Paul



    This is a test on the 8500 using Solani

    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Jan 10 07:32:37 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/10/2024 7:12 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
    couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
    appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
    used it and I had your instructions to go by.

    Robert

    It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
    and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
    (On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)

        Paul


    This is a test on the 780 Rob 1 User Account Seamonkey
    to make sure it’s working. I had to set iot up on Rob1.

    I’ve made FF my homepage on the 780 but I still get pop-ups
    for Macrium and Windows backup. I want to delete macrium
    and download my own version but I don’t seem to have a download
    for it? Could you please provide me with one?

    Also how do I get rid of the constant Windows backup pop-up?
    I just got it again while writing this. We have the mrimgs and
    don’t really need it. Btw, once were finished with the 780 we
    should run a mrimg on Win 10 to make sure it works.

    After that we need to do the 8500 and repeat everything except it
    shouldn’t have a User Account with pin numbers unless the pin
    number account went with the Win 10 upgrade.

    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert

    This won't be available for that many more days. Test it and see.
    Save the executable to your Downloads when the dialog pops up.

    https://download.macrium.com/reflect/v7/v7.3.6391/reflect_setup_free_x64.exe

    You have made Firefox your Default Browser in Windows 10.

    Setting starting screens or tabs, would be done from inside Firefox settings. Or alternately, when it needs help, by Notepad hand-editing a setting in prefs.js .

    *******

    The Macrium and Windows Backup popups come through Notifications.

    [Picture] Settings : System : Notifications for things like Backups

    https://i.postimg.cc/RZf96X4C/W10-notifications-backup.gif

    *******

    PIN numbers only get used, if you pay attention to the "every three day" exhortation to "finish setup". I have read that someone had PIN usage
    from the very beginning, but presumably they got the full screen dialog
    to finish setup and paid attention to that.

    You should not be able to get netplwiz capability back again.
    It seems that once you start working with multiple accounts,
    the interface option to select "no password", it disappears from netplwiz dialog.

    Paul




    This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.




    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Jan 10 07:18:07 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/10/2024 7:12 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/9/2024 9:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I tried to browse the mrimgs to copy/paste but I
    couldn't get it to work and the drive letters never
    appeared. It seemed different since the last time I
    used it and I had your instructions to go by.

    Robert

    It won't work unless Macrium is installed. Check
    and see if a Macrium icon is on the desktop right now.
    (On the machine where you are attempting to mount the MRIMG.)

        Paul


    This is a test on the 780 Rob 1 User Account Seamonkey
    to make sure it’s working. I had to set iot up on Rob1.

    I’ve made FF my homepage on the 780 but I still get pop-ups
    for Macrium and Windows backup. I want to delete macrium
    and download my own version but I don’t seem to have a download
    for it? Could you please provide me with one?

    Also how do I get rid of the constant Windows backup pop-up?
    I just got it again while writing this. We have the mrimgs and
    don’t really need it. Btw, once were finished with the 780 we
    should run a mrimg on Win 10 to make sure it works.

    After that we need to do the 8500 and repeat everything except it
    shouldn’t have a User Account with pin numbers unless the pin
    number account went with the Win 10 upgrade.

    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert

    This won't be available for that many more days. Test it and see.
    Save the executable to your Downloads when the dialog pops up.

    https://download.macrium.com/reflect/v7/v7.3.6391/reflect_setup_free_x64.exe

    You have made Firefox your Default Browser in Windows 10.

    Setting starting screens or tabs, would be done from inside Firefox settings. Or alternately, when it needs help, by Notepad hand-editing a setting in prefs.js .

    *******

    The Macrium and Windows Backup popups come through Notifications.

    [Picture] Settings : System : Notifications for things like Backups

    https://i.postimg.cc/RZf96X4C/W10-notifications-backup.gif

    *******

    PIN numbers only get used, if you pay attention to the "every three day" exhortation to "finish setup". I have read that someone had PIN usage
    from the very beginning, but presumably they got the full screen dialog
    to finish setup and paid attention to that.

    You should not be able to get netplwiz capability back again.
    It seems that once you start working with multiple accounts,
    the interface option to select "no password", it disappears from netplwiz dialog.

    Paul


    However it says unless I use it frequently I'll loose the account.
    If so, I'll just create another,. or post enough to keep it from
    happening. but its good to see it works.

    Robert


    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Jan 10 13:14:35 2024
    On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.

    Robert

    I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
    All with a Solani MID.

    Seems to be working.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Jan 10 13:19:34 2024
    On 1/10/2024 10:02 AM, Robert in CA wrote:



    Well I installed the PCI car with the 3.0 ports
    but the molex cable had no place to plug into.
    Still, once plugged in I expected to see some
    drivers pop-up but none did.

    So could you provide a driver for it?

    I will try Solani again.....

    Robert

    In Windows 10, Device Manager is available when you right click the Start button.

    You will need to have a look around, to see if an unknown device is
    sitting there, or a device with a driver installed is present or not.

    It's true, that in Windows 7, you need a driver for a USB3 card.

    The card you selected, might have a NEC/Renesas chip as the main
    item, and those have drivers all the way back to WinXP. Check and
    see if the manufacturer offers a web link for the drivers. That is,
    if the mini-CD no longer ships with the card.

    The mini-CD is for Windows 7. If there is no CD, check the single-page instructions for a web link to the Win7 driver.

    If the card is visible on the computer bus,
    Windows 10 should just install a driver for it.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Jan 10 11:02:55 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.

    Robert

    I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
    All with a Solani MID.

    Seems to be working.

    Paul


    I checked Device Manager but I couldn't see anything.

    https://postimg.cc/pmKCtX7n

    I switched the Win 10 hd with the Win 7 hd and checked to make sure the
    PCI card was firmly seated then ran the mini disc but it gave the same
    reply as before and the 3.0 port doesn't respond.

    https://postimg.cc/6TThphgK

    Robert


    _




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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Jan 11 03:12:59 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.

    Robert

    I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
    All with a Solani MID.

    Seems to be working.

    Paul



    Could you please provide a download for macrium
    so I can delete the old one. This was the version that
    had the pin numbers attached to it and how we found
    out about them. I would like to get it off the 780 if
    possible and install a new version.

    Robert


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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Jan 11 09:42:23 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.

    Robert

    I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
    All with a Solani MID.

    Seems to be working.

    Paul



    I deleted macrium so the pop-ups will stop.


    Could you please provide a link for macrium
    to download?

    Thanks,
    Robert




    _

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Jan 12 13:54:08 2024
    On 1/10/2024 2:02 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.

    Robert

    I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
    All with a Solani MID.

    Seems to be working.

        Paul


    I checked Device Manager but I couldn't see anything.

    https://postimg.cc/pmKCtX7n

    I switched the Win 10 hd with the Win 7 hd and checked to make sure the PCI card was firmly seated then ran the mini disc but it gave the same reply as before and the 3.0 port doesn't respond.

    https://postimg.cc/6TThphgK

    Robert

    If it was an <unknown> device, it would have appeared in the
    main Device Manager listing by itself. It should stand out.

    If it was driver-installed, it would be in the USB section.
    If the chip is NEC/Renesas, it might be labeled as such.

    In the Optiplex 780, you cannot stick the PCIe x1 card in
    the x16 video slot, as the BIOS will not accept that hardware
    config, and the machine will not boot and it will stop. So I know
    you haven't done that. I have machines here which will accept
    add-on cards jammed in the video slot, so the computers don't
    always behave that way.

    The card does not need the Aux power connector. That's not the problem.

    *******

    Here is a Powershell administrator invocation.
    Don't need to set a current working directory or anything.
    Just needs administrator to read hardware stuff.

    wmic path win32_pnpentity where "deviceid like '%PCI%'" get name,deviceid

    Copy that string from this posting, and right-click once to paste
    it into the destination terminal window. Don't try to type the command manually,
    as the tiny quote marks will get lost.

    The output looks like this, where I put it on two lines so it would fit:

    PCI\VEN_1022&DEV_149C&SUBSYS_148C1022&REV_00\4&1FDE7688&0&0341
    AMD USB 3.10 eXtensible Host Controller - 1.10 (Microsoft)

    *******

    USB Tree View, is mostly for diagnosing Patriot sticks, rather
    than for new PCIe cards.

    Notice, how on the left, all the USB hubs are listed.

    If the card was visible, it would have an entry on the left,
    and that is all we would be looking for.

    https://www.uwe-sieber.de/usbtreeview_e.html

    # Portable application, unzip and extract

    https://www.uwe-sieber.de/files/UsbTreeView_x64.zip

    If the card was blowing a Code 10, it would have appeared
    in Device Manager, with a mark easy to see, You would not
    have to "open" each subsection in Device Manager, to
    find it with a Code 10.

    So right now, initial indications are it is dead. But,
    use USBTreeView and check the left pane for evidence.
    If it is a NEC/Renesas card, it should mention the
    branding. It will say NEC or Renesas right on the chip top.
    If it was an Asmedia, it would say that on top as well.
    The chips are big enough, for clear branding.

    *******

    In Windows 10, the driver is in the OS, and it should
    take three seconds to install itself and make an appearance.

    In Windows 7, you'll need a driver for it. We can discuss
    that later. Without a driver, the thing should at least
    be detectable and should make a visual splash in Device Manager.

    I'm off to the grocery store...

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Jan 12 13:57:27 2024
    On 1/11/2024 12:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.

    Robert

    I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
    All with a Solani MID.

    Seems to be working.

        Paul



    I deleted macrium so the pop-ups will stop.


    Could you please provide a link for macrium
    to download?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    I did send it.

    Here is the evidence of transmission.

    Copy the link out of here, and place in the URL bar.

    http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cunmbhd%241pnb9%241%40paganini.bofh.team%3E

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Jan 12 16:01:23 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/11/2024 12:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.

    Robert

    I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
    All with a Solani MID.

    Seems to be working.

        Paul



    I deleted macrium so the pop-ups will stop.


    Could you please provide a link for macrium
    to download?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    I did send it.

    Here is the evidence of transmission.

    Copy the link out of here, and place in the URL bar.

    http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cunmbhd%241pnb9%241%40paganini.bofh.team%3E

    Paul




    Your right, you did send it and I remember reading that section but
    my eyes must have been glazed over. I ran it and downloaded it and
    scanned for malware and virus's (hex8) then installed macrium V 7.3
    on the 780. After it installed it asked if I wanted to upgrade to V8.
    I wasn't sure so I clicked later. Usually, that's a yes,.. but I just
    wanted
    to check with you first.

    https://postimg.cc/p97wxN2G

    Interesting about the PCI 3.0 ports on the 780 isn't it? It shows its there
    but doesn't work? I tried another USB with it to test it and nothing.
    I put the same USB in the 8500 and it detected it.


    Robert


    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Jan 12 15:40:18 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/11/2024 12:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.

    Robert

    I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
    All with a Solani MID.

    Seems to be working.

        Paul



    I deleted macrium so the pop-ups will stop.


    Could you please provide a link for macrium
    to download?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    I did send it.

    Here is the evidence of transmission.

    Copy the link out of here, and place in the URL bar.

    http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cunmbhd%241pnb9%241%40paganini.bofh.team%3E

    Paul




    I checked Disk Management again under USB and sure enough
    it's there but the 3.0 port doesn't respond.

    https://postimg.cc/BL0jmVdy

    I followed your instructions but my results are allot different:

    https://postimg.cc/F7c24CqG

    https://postimg.cc/R3PYRk6C

    https://postimg.cc/47mSFWV6

    https://postimg.cc/PvDFdN6N

    I download and ran the TreeView program

    https://postimg.cc/RNrDXQFt

    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Jan 13 12:23:34 2024
    On 1/12/2024 6:40 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/11/2024 12:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.

    Robert

    I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
    All with a Solani MID.

    Seems to be working.

         Paul



    I deleted macrium so the pop-ups will stop.


    Could you please provide a link for macrium
    to download?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    I did send it.

    Here is the evidence of transmission.

    Copy the link out of here, and place in the URL bar.

    http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cunmbhd%241pnb9%241%40paganini.bofh.team%3E

        Paul




    I checked Disk Management again under USB and sure enough
    it's there but the 3.0 port doesn't respond.

    https://postimg.cc/BL0jmVdy # Renesas item is present

    I followed your instructions but my results are allot different:

    https://postimg.cc/F7c24CqG

    https://postimg.cc/R3PYRk6C

    https://postimg.cc/47mSFWV6

    https://postimg.cc/PvDFdN6N

    I download and ran the TreeView program

    https://postimg.cc/RNrDXQFt

    Robert

    Your first picture

    https://postimg.cc/BL0jmVdy

    "Renesas USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller - 1.0 (Microsoft)"
    "USB Root Hub (USB 3.0)"

    Those are the two items belonging to the NEC/Renesas card.

    The driver is XHCI for that, and on Win10 is a built-in class driver.

    https://postimg.cc/R3PYRk6C

    "PCI\VEN_1912&DEV_0014... Renesas USB 3.0..." <=== command is working, device is present on PCIe bus

    This is a section of pci.ids

    1905 Micronas USA, Inc.
    1912 Renesas Technology Corp.
    0002 SH7780 PCI Controller (PCIC)
    0011 SH7757 PCIe End-Point [PBI]
    0012 SH7757 PCIe-PCI Bridge [PPB]
    0013 SH7757 PCIe Switch [PS]
    0014 uPD720201 USB 3.0 Host Controller <=== Your card uses this chip, based on WMIC output
    0015 uPD720202 USB 3.0 Host Controller
    001a SH7758 PCIe-PCI Bridge [PPB]
    001b SH7758 PCIe End-Point [PBI]
    001d SH7758 PCIe Switch [PS]
    1919 Soltek Computer Inc.

    *******

    https://postimg.cc/RNrDXQFt

    For the TreeView output, your item is "Renesas" second line from the top.

    When you plug in the external hard drive, an entry should open under
    the USB Root Hub.

    All looking good so far.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Jan 13 12:31:12 2024
    On 1/12/2024 7:01 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/11/2024 12:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.

    Robert

    I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
    All with a Solani MID.

    Seems to be working.

         Paul



    I deleted macrium so the pop-ups will stop.


    Could you please provide a link for macrium
    to download?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    I did send it.

    Here is the evidence of transmission.

    Copy the link out of here, and place in the URL bar.

    http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cunmbhd%241pnb9%241%40paganini.bofh.team%3E

        Paul




    Your right, you did send it and I remember reading that section but
    my eyes must have been glazed over. I ran it and downloaded it and
    scanned for malware and virus's (hex8) then installed macrium V 7.3
    on the 780. After it installed it asked if I wanted to upgrade to V8.
    I wasn't sure so I clicked later. Usually, that's a yes,.. but I just wanted to check with you first.

     https://postimg.cc/p97wxN2G

    Interesting about the PCI 3.0 ports on the 780 isn't it? It shows its there but doesn't work? I tried another USB with it to test it and nothing.
    I put the same USB in the 8500 and it detected it.


    Robert

    Whether you use Macrium V8, would depend on whether you have a V8 Rescue CD. I'm pretty happy here, to use Version 7 for the free full backups it offers.
    I have the CD for that one.

    *******

    It still remains to be seen, whether the USB3 port on the Renesas is working. The TreeView program can be left running, while you plug in the powered drive.

    If you are using things like 2.5" WD Passport drives, maybe there is not
    enough current coming from the card for that. But you have 3.5" drives
    in a separately-powered external enclosure, and that should work without
    any consideration for card power. Don't forget to connect the external
    drive to its AC based power source.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Jan 13 14:52:32 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/12/2024 7:01 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/11/2024 12:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/10/2024 10:32 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    This is a test on the 780 Rob1 User Account with Solani.

    Robert

    I see a post at 10:11, 10:18, and 10:32.
    All with a Solani MID.

    Seems to be working.

         Paul



    I deleted macrium so the pop-ups will stop.


    Could you please provide a link for macrium
    to download?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    I did send it.

    Here is the evidence of transmission.

    Copy the link out of here, and place in the URL bar.

    http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cunmbhd%241pnb9%241%40paganini.bofh.team%3E

        Paul




    Your right, you did send it and I remember reading that section but
    my eyes must have been glazed over. I ran it and downloaded it and
    scanned for malware and virus's (hex8) then installed macrium V 7.3
    on the 780. After it installed it asked if I wanted to upgrade to V8.
    I wasn't sure so I clicked later. Usually, that's a yes,.. but I just wanted >> to check with you first.

     https://postimg.cc/p97wxN2G

    Interesting about the PCI 3.0 ports on the 780 isn't it? It shows its there >> but doesn't work? I tried another USB with it to test it and nothing.
    I put the same USB in the 8500 and it detected it.


    Robert

    Whether you use Macrium V8, would depend on whether you have a V8 Rescue CD. I'm pretty happy here, to use Version 7 for the free full backups it offers. I have the CD for that one.

    *******

    It still remains to be seen, whether the USB3 port on the Renesas is working. The TreeView program can be left running, while you plug in the powered drive.

    If you are using things like 2.5" WD Passport drives, maybe there is not enough current coming from the card for that. But you have 3.5" drives
    in a separately-powered external enclosure, and that should work without
    any consideration for card power. Don't forget to connect the external
    drive to its AC based power source.

    Paul




    Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to
    use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you
    like or were you thinking of mrimgs?

    However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk
    or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response.
    If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
    it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked
    but not the 3.0

    That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't
    upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.


    Robert



    _


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Jan 14 10:51:51 2024
    On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to
    use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?

    However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk
    or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
    it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0

    That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.


    Robert

    Leave the TreeView running.

    Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
    ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
    (Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
    will be evident.)

    Plug in the Patriot.

    It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.

    This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died).
    I can put that in this machine, for test.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif

    If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
    If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
    is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs
    GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be
    MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.

    You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jan 14 09:52:27 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to
    use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?

    However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk
    or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
    it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0

    That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.


    Robert

    Leave the TreeView running.

    Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
    ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
    (Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
    will be evident.)

    Plug in the Patriot.

    It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.

    This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died).
    I can put that in this machine, for test.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif

    If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
    If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it, is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs
    GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be
    MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.

    You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.

    Paul



    I followed your instructions:

    https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h

    https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7

    https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M

    here's Disk Management

    https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8

    Robert


    _



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Jan 14 15:09:08 2024
    On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to
    use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?

    However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk
    or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
    it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0

    That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.


    Robert

    Leave the TreeView running.

    Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
    ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
    (Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
    will be evident.)

    Plug in the Patriot.

    It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.

    This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died).
    I can put that in this machine, for test.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif

    If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
    If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it, >> is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs
    GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be
    MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.

    You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.

       Paul



    I followed your instructions:

    https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h

    https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7

    https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M

    here's Disk Management

    https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8

    Robert

    Hmmmm.

    Have you tried all the ports ?

    If they wanted to, they could definitely design
    a card that needs the aux power connected to a
    power cable. But that is not normal practice.
    Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
    and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
    to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jan 14 17:07:20 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to
    use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?

    However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
    it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0

    That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.


    Robert

    Leave the TreeView running.

    Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
    ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
    (Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
    will be evident.)

    Plug in the Patriot.

    It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.

    This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died).
    I can put that in this machine, for test.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif >>>
    If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
    If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
    is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs >>> GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be
    MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.

    You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.

       Paul



    I followed your instructions:

    https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h

    https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7

    https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M

    here's Disk Management

    https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8

    Robert

    Hmmmm.

    Have you tried all the ports ?

    If they wanted to, they could definitely design
    a card that needs the aux power connected to a
    power cable. But that is not normal practice.
    Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
    and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
    to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.

    Paul


    Yes, I've tried both 3.0 ports,.. nothing, so I put it in
    a 2.0 port so you see the change; its Port 1. I was
    using the USB Adaptor with Sandisk.

    https://postimg.cc/KRpBgmjJ

    I also saw this when I checked hidden icons:

    https://postimg.cc/Yv4g6Tmk

    I right clicked it - One drive isn't connected?

    https://postimg.cc/XpPBYx1P

    Robert



    _



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jan 14 17:19:00 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to
    use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?

    However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
    it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0

    That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.


    Robert

    Leave the TreeView running.

    Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
    ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
    (Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
    will be evident.)

    Plug in the Patriot.

    It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.

    This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died).
    I can put that in this machine, for test.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif >>>
    If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
    If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
    is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs >>> GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be
    MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.

    You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.

       Paul



    I followed your instructions:

    https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h

    https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7

    https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M

    here's Disk Management

    https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8

    Robert

    Hmmmm.

    Have you tried all the ports ?

    If they wanted to, they could definitely design
    a card that needs the aux power connected to a
    power cable. But that is not normal practice.
    Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
    and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
    to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.

    Paul



    I noticed Windows Security had a yellow triangle under hidden icons.
    Could you please tell me whether I should dismiss these items or
    should I sign-in and or turn on?

    https://postimg.cc/k27zDFVx

    Thanks,
    Robert

    _



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Jan 14 23:47:40 2024
    On 1/14/2024 8:19 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to >>>>> use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?

    However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
    it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0

    That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.


    Robert

    Leave the TreeView running.

    Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
    ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
    (Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
    will be evident.)

    Plug in the Patriot.

    It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.

    This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died).
    I can put that in this machine, for test.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif >>>>
    If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
    If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
    is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs >>>> GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be
    MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.

    You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.

        Paul



    I followed your instructions:

    https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h

    https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7

    https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M

    here's Disk Management

    https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8

    Robert

    Hmmmm.

    Have you tried all the ports ?

    If they wanted to, they could definitely design
    a card that needs the aux power connected to a
    power cable. But that is not normal practice.
    Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
    and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
    to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.

        Paul



    I noticed Windows Security had a yellow triangle under hidden icons.
    Could you please tell me whether I should dismiss these items or
    should I sign-in and or turn on?

    https://postimg.cc/k27zDFVx

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Adding an MSA, would cause the password to be stored in the Cloud.
    There would be a recovery procedure, you could answer security
    questions and "recover your password", perhaps via email.

    But you already know how to hack your way into the computer,
    so you hardly need this.

    You might need an MSA some day, to get software from the Microsoft Store.
    For example, there's some CODEC that costs $1.50 or so, which may help
    with movie playback or something. But generally, there isn't a lot
    of reasons to go there.

    A yellow triangle could be a real security issue.
    But just as easily, it could be a message from a marketing weasel.

    *******

    You get a small amount of free storage on OneDrive. It might be
    great for distributing materials. Or as a kind of backup
    for a few items in your Downloads folder. You can control the
    distribution to make it private or public, and public is what
    you'd use for your "cat photos" :-) Then you would give other
    people a "link" to the cat photo. That's the sort of thing you
    could do with OneDrive. But for basic backups, you have local
    hard drives that are working just fine.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Jan 15 07:30:24 2024
    On 1/14/2024 8:07 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to >>>>> use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?

    However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
    it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0

    That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.


    Robert

    Leave the TreeView running.

    Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
    ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
    (Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
    will be evident.)

    Plug in the Patriot.

    It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.

    This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died).
    I can put that in this machine, for test.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif >>>>
    If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
    If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
    is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs >>>> GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be
    MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.

    You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.

        Paul



    I followed your instructions:

    https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h

    https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7

    https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M

    here's Disk Management

    https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8

    Robert

    Hmmmm.

    Have you tried all the ports ?

    If they wanted to, they could definitely design
    a card that needs the aux power connected to a
    power cable. But that is not normal practice.
    Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
    and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
    to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.

        Paul


    Yes, I've tried both 3.0 ports,.. nothing, so I put it in
    a 2.0 port so you see the change; its Port 1. I was
    using the USB Adaptor with Sandisk.

    https://postimg.cc/KRpBgmjJ

    I also saw this when I checked hidden icons:

    https://postimg.cc/Yv4g6Tmk

    I right clicked it - One drive isn't connected?

    https://postimg.cc/XpPBYx1P

    Robert

    OneDrive is the cloud storage offered by Microsoft.

    When the foreign account was on the machine, that account
    used a MSA (Microsoft Account), and that user could have had
    Cloud storage.

    However, for every account on the machine, the storage
    should be private. So Rob and Rob1 might get separate
    Cloud storage (you would not expect Rob to see the contents
    of Rob1 cloud storage if each had an MSA).

    If you don't have an MSA for the Rob account, or an MSA
    associated with the Rob1 account, it would be pretty hard
    to satisfy the whims of the OneDrive software on the machine.

    It's probably grumpy that the foreign account that used to
    be on the machine, is gone :-) And this likely happens
    all the time, in scenarios like yours. A clean install might
    end all ties, or, perhaps there is a way to remove the
    OneDrive software. Or turn off its notifications in the
    Notification area of Settings.

    *******

    One thing that is weird about your TreeView, is your Renesas
    appears to be the four port chip version. Mine is the two port chip
    version. My card has two ports and it has a two port chip.
    Your card has a four port chip and a two port PCB ???

    It's possible the two chips are footprint compatible, so that
    in a production emergency, the four port chip could be soldered
    in place of the two port chip. The excess ports would be
    no-connects on the FPBGA (fine pitch ball grid array).
    Or, they could have entirely different packaging, for all
    I know. The two diodes on the card ? Hard to imagine they
    could stay within VBUS tolerances if used for naive current
    sharing -- that's one part of these designs I don't understand,
    the "how do they share" part with the external connector.

    1912 Renesas Technology Corp.
    0014 uPD720201 USB 3.0 Host Controller <=== Your four port chip?
    0015 uPD720202 USB 3.0 Host Controller <=== Treeview PCI\VEN_1912&DEV_0015 [My card]

    You can't see the chip number on the main chip here, but
    the card layout hints a bit about function. It does
    seem to have a 2 amp local power supply, 12V to 5V, on
    the top edge of the card, and two 1.1 amp fuses for the
    ports.

    [Picture] My Renesas 2 port USB3, with drivers all the way back to WinXP

    https://i.postimg.cc/T1VsjbTh/Renesas-2-Port-USB3.jpg

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 15 06:43:44 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/14/2024 8:19 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to >>>>>> use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?

    However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
    it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0

    That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.


    Robert

    Leave the TreeView running.

    Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
    ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
    (Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
    will be evident.)

    Plug in the Patriot.

    It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.

    This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died). >>>>> I can put that in this machine, for test.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif

    If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
    If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
    is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs >>>>> GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be >>>>> MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.

    You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.

        Paul



    I followed your instructions:

    https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h

    https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7

    https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M

    here's Disk Management

    https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8

    Robert

    Hmmmm.

    Have you tried all the ports ?

    If they wanted to, they could definitely design
    a card that needs the aux power connected to a
    power cable. But that is not normal practice.
    Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
    and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
    to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.

        Paul



    I noticed Windows Security had a yellow triangle under hidden icons.
    Could you please tell me whether I should dismiss these items or
    should I sign-in and or turn on?

    https://postimg.cc/k27zDFVx

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Adding an MSA, would cause the password to be stored in the Cloud.
    There would be a recovery procedure, you could answer security
    questions and "recover your password", perhaps via email.

    But you already know how to hack your way into the computer,
    so you hardly need this.

    You might need an MSA some day, to get software from the Microsoft Store.
    For example, there's some CODEC that costs $1.50 or so, which may help
    with movie playback or something. But generally, there isn't a lot
    of reasons to go there.

    A yellow triangle could be a real security issue.
    But just as easily, it could be a message from a marketing weasel.

    *******

    You get a small amount of free storage on OneDrive. It might be
    great for distributing materials. Or as a kind of backup
    for a few items in your Downloads folder. You can control the
    distribution to make it private or public, and public is what
    you'd use for your "cat photos" :-) Then you would give other
    people a "link" to the cat photo. That's the sort of thing you
    could do with OneDrive. But for basic backups, you have local
    hard drives that are working just fine.

    Paul



    This is the card I bought:

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019

    I have to say its hard to find Treeview on
    Win 10,.. it doesn't have the All Programs
    that Win 7 Pro does.

    What about the Account Protection and App
    & Browser Control with yellow triangles?
    dismiss them?

    https://postlmg.cc/k27zDFVx


    Things still to do...

    1. make a homepage on Win 10 with about:blank
    2. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
    via 1TB Patriot(I'll order it on the 24th).
    3. create a mrimg on Win 10 when your satisfied
    were done.
    4. do the 8500 Win 10, I checked and it only
    will hold one hd at a time. So I'll have to
    physically remove the Win 7 Pro hd and replace
    it with Win 10 hd. It also has no hd harness
    like the 780 but is screwed directly into the
    frame with (4) screws.

    I've done it before but you'd think they would
    design it a bit more user friendly.

    Thoughts/Suggestions?
    Robert


    _


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Jan 15 11:48:04 2024
    On 1/15/2024 9:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/14/2024 8:19 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to >>>>>>> use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?

    However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>>>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
    it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0

    That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.


    Robert

    Leave the TreeView running.

    Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
    ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
    (Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
    will be evident.)

    Plug in the Patriot.

    It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.

    This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died). >>>>>> I can put that in this machine, for test.

          [Picture]

           https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif

    If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
    If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
    is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs
    GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be >>>>>> MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.

    You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.

         Paul



    I followed your instructions:

    https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h

    https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7

    https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M

    here's Disk Management

    https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8

    Robert

    Hmmmm.

    Have you tried all the ports ?

    If they wanted to, they could definitely design
    a card that needs the aux power connected to a
    power cable. But that is not normal practice.
    Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
    and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
    to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.

         Paul



    I noticed Windows Security had a yellow triangle under hidden icons.
    Could you please tell me whether I should dismiss these items or
    should I sign-in and or turn on?

    https://postimg.cc/k27zDFVx

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Adding an MSA, would cause the password to be stored in the Cloud.
    There would be a recovery procedure, you could answer security
    questions and "recover your password", perhaps via email.

    But you already know how to hack your way into the computer,
    so you hardly need this.

    You might need an MSA some day, to get software from the Microsoft Store.
    For example, there's some CODEC that costs $1.50 or so, which may help
    with movie playback or something. But generally, there isn't a lot
    of reasons to go there.

    A yellow triangle could be a real security issue.
    But just as easily, it could be a message from a marketing weasel.

    *******

    You get a small amount of free storage on OneDrive. It might be
    great for distributing materials. Or as a kind of backup
    for a few items in your Downloads folder. You can control the
    distribution to make it private or public, and public is what
    you'd use for your "cat photos" :-) Then you would give other
    people a "link" to the cat photo. That's the sort of thing you
    could do with OneDrive. But for basic backups, you have local
    hard drives that are working just fine.

        Paul



    This is the card I bought:

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019

    I have to say its hard to find Treeview on
    Win 10,.. it doesn't have the All Programs
    that Win 7 Pro does.

    What about the Account Protection and App
    & Browser Control with yellow triangles?
    dismiss them?

    https://postlmg.cc/k27zDFVx


    Things still to do...

    1. make a homepage on Win 10 with about:blank
    2. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
       via 1TB Patriot(I'll order it on the 24th).
    3. create a mrimg on Win 10 when your satisfied
       were done.
    4. do the 8500 Win 10, I checked and it only
       will hold one hd at a time. So I'll have to
       physically remove the Win 7 Pro hd and replace
       it with Win 10 hd. It also has no hd harness
       like the 780 but is screwed directly into the
       frame with (4) screws.

       I've done it before but you'd think they would
       design it a bit more user friendly.

    Thoughts/Suggestions?
    Robert

    They do mention the power cable, but it only gets mentioned
    in the "Windows says the USB device is not getting enough power"
    section of the manual.

    https://www.vantecusa.com/CKEdit/images/files/ugt-pc345_manual.pdf

    Like my card, it does seem the design of yours has potentially
    the right materials on board. There is a 2 ampere power
    converter in the upper left corner. A converter for core power
    for the chip. And what could be a schottky diode ORing scheme
    for +5V summation with the onboard 5V2A converter.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/R0sjTmck/vantecusa-ugt-pc345-USB3-4port.jpg

    The reviews on Newegg, have mixed some other product reviews in,
    specifically the VIA chipset board that does not work as well
    (some versions of driver are buggy for that one).

    But a couple people mention they could not get external
    device detection unless the "optional" power cable (Molex 1x4)
    is connected to the ugt-pc345.

    See if your card exactly matches the Newegg picture or see if
    there are "more de-pops" on your physical card than the example
    photos. It's unlikely they would test the card at the factory
    (with optional connector disconnected) and not notice the
    power converter was not working.

    Since the device seems to show up, it's my wild guess the
    Renesas 720201 is getting core power, the firmware is loading,
    but perhaps there's no VBUS on the external USB3 connectors. And that would play a part if failing to detect.

    *******

    This is a LP4 Female to two LP4 males. A Y cable.

    https://www.newegg.com/multi-color-startech-9-cable-connectors/p/N82E16812200042

    Normally these are relatively short. A "good" one might be at best 9 inches
    on either side of the Y.

    I have one Y cable, which is 18 inches on one leg and 9 inches on the
    other leg. This cable came with an ATI video card, and presumably the
    long cable, was to reach the end of the ATI 9800Pro, something like that.

    You can place multiple Y cables in-line, to achieve a longer length on
    one leg.

    You could for example, take the Molex off one of your optical drives,
    and insert a Y in there. The short side of the Y cables would go
    to the optical drive. The extended path of multiple Y cables, would
    reach all the way down to the USB card.

    ATX Molex male --- female lp4lp4 --------- to optical drive
    6 \
    6 \
    female lp4lp4 ---------X
    \
    6 \
    female lp4lp4 ---------X
    \
    6 \
    Renesas
    AuxPower

    ATX Molex male --- female lp4lp4 --------- to optical drive
    9 \
    9 \
    \
    female lp4lp4 ---------X
    \
    9 \
    \
    Renesas
    AuxPower

    Using my boundless supply of spare wire, I'd just cut one leg of the
    Y in two pieces, and insert pieces of extension wire, to make a single asymmetric Y long enough for the job. But, you need flexible wire.
    Lamp cord wire is heavy enough. You'd need a nice lamp cord wire
    you could split, to maintain good flexibility. and you need an excellent
    supply of Marettes/WireNuts to make the connections. Soldering and using Polyolefin sleeves is too much work. As long as you use the right size
    of WireNut, you can extend a Molex Y.

    Anyway, that's an illustration of how you'd get power down there.
    It's too bad the damn Y cables are so short, because for this job,
    the longer the individual units are, the fewer (in-a-row) needed.
    I'm guessing the distance is at least 20 inches, and you want a bit
    of slack, as making it like a guitar string is not convenient
    when working inside a PC.

    The reason all these theatrics are required, is the PCIe connector
    only has +3.3V and +12V in the power section of the edge connector,
    and there's no incoming +5V. The onboard 2 amp converter is
    supposed to convert +12V to +5V (buck converter) and do it relatively efficiently so the chip does not get too hot. Using the Aux Connector,
    the +5V on the Y-cable can be used without conversion. Only
    if they "forgot" to install the converter in the upper left
    corner, should the card be devoid of VBUS on the external connector.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 15 13:40:50 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/15/2024 9:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/14/2024 8:19 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to >>>>>>>> use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?

    However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>>>>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
    it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0

    That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.


    Robert

    Leave the TreeView running.

    Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
    ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
    (Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
    will be evident.)

    Plug in the Patriot.

    It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.

    This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died). >>>>>>> I can put that in this machine, for test.

          [Picture]

           https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif

    If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
    If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
    is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs
    GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be >>>>>>> MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.

    You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.

         Paul



    I followed your instructions:

    https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h

    https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7

    https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M

    here's Disk Management

    https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8

    Robert

    Hmmmm.

    Have you tried all the ports ?

    If they wanted to, they could definitely design
    a card that needs the aux power connected to a
    power cable. But that is not normal practice.
    Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
    and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
    to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.

         Paul



    I noticed Windows Security had a yellow triangle under hidden icons.
    Could you please tell me whether I should dismiss these items or
    should I sign-in and or turn on?

    https://postimg.cc/k27zDFVx

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Adding an MSA, would cause the password to be stored in the Cloud.
    There would be a recovery procedure, you could answer security
    questions and "recover your password", perhaps via email.

    But you already know how to hack your way into the computer,
    so you hardly need this.

    You might need an MSA some day, to get software from the Microsoft Store. >>> For example, there's some CODEC that costs $1.50 or so, which may help
    with movie playback or something. But generally, there isn't a lot
    of reasons to go there.

    A yellow triangle could be a real security issue.
    But just as easily, it could be a message from a marketing weasel.

    *******

    You get a small amount of free storage on OneDrive. It might be
    great for distributing materials. Or as a kind of backup
    for a few items in your Downloads folder. You can control the
    distribution to make it private or public, and public is what
    you'd use for your "cat photos" :-) Then you would give other
    people a "link" to the cat photo. That's the sort of thing you
    could do with OneDrive. But for basic backups, you have local
    hard drives that are working just fine.

        Paul



    This is the card I bought:

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019

    I have to say its hard to find Treeview on
    Win 10,.. it doesn't have the All Programs
    that Win 7 Pro does.

    What about the Account Protection and App
    & Browser Control with yellow triangles?
    dismiss them?

    https://postlmg.cc/k27zDFVx


    Things still to do...

    1. make a homepage on Win 10 with about:blank
    2. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
       via 1TB Patriot(I'll order it on the 24th).
    3. create a mrimg on Win 10 when your satisfied
       were done.
    4. do the 8500 Win 10, I checked and it only
       will hold one hd at a time. So I'll have to
       physically remove the Win 7 Pro hd and replace
       it with Win 10 hd. It also has no hd harness
       like the 780 but is screwed directly into the
       frame with (4) screws.

       I've done it before but you'd think they would
       design it a bit more user friendly.

    Thoughts/Suggestions?
    Robert

    They do mention the power cable, but it only gets mentioned
    in the "Windows says the USB device is not getting enough power"
    section of the manual.

    https://www.vantecusa.com/CKEdit/images/files/ugt-pc345_manual.pdf

    Like my card, it does seem the design of yours has potentially
    the right materials on board. There is a 2 ampere power
    converter in the upper left corner. A converter for core power
    for the chip. And what could be a schottky diode ORing scheme
    for +5V summation with the onboard 5V2A converter.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/R0sjTmck/vantecusa-ugt-pc345-USB3-4port.jpg

    The reviews on Newegg, have mixed some other product reviews in,
    specifically the VIA chipset board that does not work as well
    (some versions of driver are buggy for that one).

    But a couple people mention they could not get external
    device detection unless the "optional" power cable (Molex 1x4)
    is connected to the ugt-pc345.

    See if your card exactly matches the Newegg picture or see if
    there are "more de-pops" on your physical card than the example
    photos. It's unlikely they would test the card at the factory
    (with optional connector disconnected) and not notice the
    power converter was not working.

    Since the device seems to show up, it's my wild guess the
    Renesas 720201 is getting core power, the firmware is loading,
    but perhaps there's no VBUS on the external USB3 connectors. And that would play a part if failing to detect.

    *******

    This is a LP4 Female to two LP4 males. A Y cable.

    https://www.newegg.com/multi-color-startech-9-cable-connectors/p/N82E16812200042

    Normally these are relatively short. A "good" one might be at best 9 inches on either side of the Y.

    I have one Y cable, which is 18 inches on one leg and 9 inches on the
    other leg. This cable came with an ATI video card, and presumably the
    long cable, was to reach the end of the ATI 9800Pro, something like that.

    You can place multiple Y cables in-line, to achieve a longer length on
    one leg.

    You could for example, take the Molex off one of your optical drives,
    and insert a Y in there. The short side of the Y cables would go
    to the optical drive. The extended path of multiple Y cables, would
    reach all the way down to the USB card.

    ATX Molex male --- female lp4lp4 --------- to optical drive
    6 \
    6 \
    female lp4lp4 ---------X
    \
    6 \
    female lp4lp4 ---------X
    \
    6 \
    Renesas
    AuxPower

    ATX Molex male --- female lp4lp4 --------- to optical drive
    9 \
    9 \
    \
    female lp4lp4 ---------X
    \
    9 \
    \
    Renesas
    AuxPower

    Using my boundless supply of spare wire, I'd just cut one leg of the
    Y in two pieces, and insert pieces of extension wire, to make a single asymmetric Y long enough for the job. But, you need flexible wire.
    Lamp cord wire is heavy enough. You'd need a nice lamp cord wire
    you could split, to maintain good flexibility. and you need an excellent supply of Marettes/WireNuts to make the connections. Soldering and using Polyolefin sleeves is too much work. As long as you use the right size
    of WireNut, you can extend a Molex Y.

    Anyway, that's an illustration of how you'd get power down there.
    It's too bad the damn Y cables are so short, because for this job,
    the longer the individual units are, the fewer (in-a-row) needed.
    I'm guessing the distance is at least 20 inches, and you want a bit
    of slack, as making it like a guitar string is not convenient
    when working inside a PC.

    The reason all these theatrics are required, is the PCIe connector
    only has +3.3V and +12V in the power section of the edge connector,
    and there's no incoming +5V. The onboard 2 amp converter is
    supposed to convert +12V to +5V (buck converter) and do it relatively efficiently so the chip does not get too hot. Using the Aux Connector,
    the +5V on the Y-cable can be used without conversion. Only
    if they "forgot" to install the converter in the upper left
    corner, should the card be devoid of VBUS on the external connector.

    Paul





    Success!

    You pointed me in the right direction. I used the
    optical drive cable and connected it to the PCI
    Molex cable.

    https://postimg.cc/vgkctGCP

    https://postimg.cc/mzvgF8FJ

    https://postimg.cc/N2twcVXs

    https://postimg.cc/LJWKXhP0

    https://postimg.cc/3dR3Js6N


    I'll have to put the optical cable back of course, but
    I wanted to test it and see if it would work.

    I'll have to order cables on the 24th,.. but I don't
    know if the one you showed will be long enough?
    I'll need male/female connections. one for the PCI
    card and one for the optical cable connection.

    What about the Windows Security yellow triangles?
    Should I dismiss them or what?

    https://postlmg.cc/k27zDFVx

    Robert



    _


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 15 14:16:37 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/15/2024 9:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/14/2024 8:19 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to >>>>>>>> use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?

    However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk >>>>>>>> or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
    it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0

    That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.


    Robert

    Leave the TreeView running.

    Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
    ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
    (Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
    will be evident.)

    Plug in the Patriot.

    It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.

    This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died). >>>>>>> I can put that in this machine, for test.

          [Picture]

           https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif

    If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
    If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
    is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs
    GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be >>>>>>> MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.

    You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress.

         Paul



    I followed your instructions:

    https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h

    https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7

    https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M

    here's Disk Management

    https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8

    Robert

    Hmmmm.

    Have you tried all the ports ?

    If they wanted to, they could definitely design
    a card that needs the aux power connected to a
    power cable. But that is not normal practice.
    Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
    and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
    to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.

         Paul



    I noticed Windows Security had a yellow triangle under hidden icons.
    Could you please tell me whether I should dismiss these items or
    should I sign-in and or turn on?

    https://postimg.cc/k27zDFVx

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Adding an MSA, would cause the password to be stored in the Cloud.
    There would be a recovery procedure, you could answer security
    questions and "recover your password", perhaps via email.

    But you already know how to hack your way into the computer,
    so you hardly need this.

    You might need an MSA some day, to get software from the Microsoft Store. >>> For example, there's some CODEC that costs $1.50 or so, which may help
    with movie playback or something. But generally, there isn't a lot
    of reasons to go there.

    A yellow triangle could be a real security issue.
    But just as easily, it could be a message from a marketing weasel.

    *******

    You get a small amount of free storage on OneDrive. It might be
    great for distributing materials. Or as a kind of backup
    for a few items in your Downloads folder. You can control the
    distribution to make it private or public, and public is what
    you'd use for your "cat photos" :-) Then you would give other
    people a "link" to the cat photo. That's the sort of thing you
    could do with OneDrive. But for basic backups, you have local
    hard drives that are working just fine.

        Paul



    This is the card I bought:

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019

    I have to say its hard to find Treeview on
    Win 10,.. it doesn't have the All Programs
    that Win 7 Pro does.

    What about the Account Protection and App
    & Browser Control with yellow triangles?
    dismiss them?

    https://postlmg.cc/k27zDFVx


    Things still to do...

    1. make a homepage on Win 10 with about:blank
    2. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
       via 1TB Patriot(I'll order it on the 24th).
    3. create a mrimg on Win 10 when your satisfied
       were done.
    4. do the 8500 Win 10, I checked and it only
       will hold one hd at a time. So I'll have to
       physically remove the Win 7 Pro hd and replace
       it with Win 10 hd. It also has no hd harness
       like the 780 but is screwed directly into the
       frame with (4) screws.

       I've done it before but you'd think they would
       design it a bit more user friendly.

    Thoughts/Suggestions?
    Robert

    They do mention the power cable, but it only gets mentioned
    in the "Windows says the USB device is not getting enough power"
    section of the manual.

    https://www.vantecusa.com/CKEdit/images/files/ugt-pc345_manual.pdf

    Like my card, it does seem the design of yours has potentially
    the right materials on board. There is a 2 ampere power
    converter in the upper left corner. A converter for core power
    for the chip. And what could be a schottky diode ORing scheme
    for +5V summation with the onboard 5V2A converter.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/R0sjTmck/vantecusa-ugt-pc345-USB3-4port.jpg

    The reviews on Newegg, have mixed some other product reviews in,
    specifically the VIA chipset board that does not work as well
    (some versions of driver are buggy for that one).

    But a couple people mention they could not get external
    device detection unless the "optional" power cable (Molex 1x4)
    is connected to the ugt-pc345.

    See if your card exactly matches the Newegg picture or see if
    there are "more de-pops" on your physical card than the example
    photos. It's unlikely they would test the card at the factory
    (with optional connector disconnected) and not notice the
    power converter was not working.

    Since the device seems to show up, it's my wild guess the
    Renesas 720201 is getting core power, the firmware is loading,
    but perhaps there's no VBUS on the external USB3 connectors. And that would play a part if failing to detect.

    *******

    This is a LP4 Female to two LP4 males. A Y cable.

    https://www.newegg.com/multi-color-startech-9-cable-connectors/p/N82E16812200042

    Normally these are relatively short. A "good" one might be at best 9 inches on either side of the Y.

    I have one Y cable, which is 18 inches on one leg and 9 inches on the
    other leg. This cable came with an ATI video card, and presumably the
    long cable, was to reach the end of the ATI 9800Pro, something like that.

    You can place multiple Y cables in-line, to achieve a longer length on
    one leg.

    You could for example, take the Molex off one of your optical drives,
    and insert a Y in there. The short side of the Y cables would go
    to the optical drive. The extended path of multiple Y cables, would
    reach all the way down to the USB card.

    ATX Molex male --- female lp4lp4 --------- to optical drive
    6 \
    6 \
    female lp4lp4 ---------X
    \
    6 \
    female lp4lp4 ---------X
    \
    6 \
    Renesas
    AuxPower

    ATX Molex male --- female lp4lp4 --------- to optical drive
    9 \
    9 \
    \
    female lp4lp4 ---------X
    \
    9 \
    \
    Renesas
    AuxPower

    Using my boundless supply of spare wire, I'd just cut one leg of the
    Y in two pieces, and insert pieces of extension wire, to make a single asymmetric Y long enough for the job. But, you need flexible wire.
    Lamp cord wire is heavy enough. You'd need a nice lamp cord wire
    you could split, to maintain good flexibility. and you need an excellent supply of Marettes/WireNuts to make the connections. Soldering and using Polyolefin sleeves is too much work. As long as you use the right size
    of WireNut, you can extend a Molex Y.

    Anyway, that's an illustration of how you'd get power down there.
    It's too bad the damn Y cables are so short, because for this job,
    the longer the individual units are, the fewer (in-a-row) needed.
    I'm guessing the distance is at least 20 inches, and you want a bit
    of slack, as making it like a guitar string is not convenient
    when working inside a PC.

    The reason all these theatrics are required, is the PCIe connector
    only has +3.3V and +12V in the power section of the edge connector,
    and there's no incoming +5V. The onboard 2 amp converter is
    supposed to convert +12V to +5V (buck converter) and do it relatively efficiently so the chip does not get too hot. Using the Aux Connector,
    the +5V on the Y-cable can be used without conversion. Only
    if they "forgot" to install the converter in the upper left
    corner, should the card be devoid of VBUS on the external connector.

    Paul



    Here's TreeViwer:

    https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S

    Robert


    _



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Jan 15 21:26:32 2024
    On 1/15/2024 5:16 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Here's TreeViwer:

    https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S

    Robert

    Yup. Looks good.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Mon Jan 15 21:24:44 2024
    On 1/15/2024 4:40 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/15/2024 9:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/14/2024 8:19 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/14/2024 12:52 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/13/2024 5:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Before we try and hook up a external hd and btw way we don't need to >>>>>>>>> use the 6TB external hd to test it we can use the WD external if you like or were you thinking of mrimgs?

    However the 3.0 port should also work with a Patriot stick or SandDisk
    or with the Adaptor but it doesn't I've tried and there's no response. If it's working properly the computer should see it with a pop-up but
    it doesn't. I tried each of these on the 2.0 ports and they each worked but not the 3.0

    That's what I was thinking, the same as you on Macrium. So I won't upgrade to version 8 and next time I'll say no.


    Robert

    Leave the TreeView running.

    Find the Renesas item, use the (+) symbol to get the
    ports list to show. There should be two items as entries.
    (Two main items -- it's ah XHCI hub, so some duplication
    will be evident.)

    Plug in the Patriot.

    It should show a new entry, on one of the two ports.

    This is the Renesas out of my old WinXP machine (after machine died). >>>>>>>> I can put that in this machine, for test.

           [Picture]

            https://i.postimg.cc/y6vv8W5V/Renesas-2-Port-With-USB-Stick.gif

    If it does that, the next step is examining Disk Management (a right-click item of Start button).
    If a disk has not been initialized, then that would be part of preparing it,
    is using Disk Management to make a partition and so on. A 6TB drive needs
    GPT partitioning so the entire 6TB is usable. The 2TB drives could be >>>>>>>> MBR or GPT, and either partitioning scheme would work.

    You are definitely getting responses, and are making progress. >>>>>>>>
          Paul



    I followed your instructions:

    https://postimg.cc/B81xSy0h

    https://postimg.cc/DJk18gf7

    https://postimg.cc/bSqbRw2M

    here's Disk Management

    https://postimg.cc/qzR6BYc8

    Robert

    Hmmmm.

    Have you tried all the ports ?

    If they wanted to, they could definitely design
    a card that needs the aux power connected to a
    power cable. But that is not normal practice.
    Normal practice is to use a buck converter,
    and convert from +12V on the edge connector,
    to +5V for VBUS on the external USB connector.

          Paul



    I noticed Windows Security had a yellow triangle under hidden icons. >>>>> Could you please tell me whether I should dismiss these items or
    should I sign-in and or turn on?

    https://postimg.cc/k27zDFVx

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Adding an MSA, would cause the password to be stored in the Cloud.
    There would be a recovery procedure, you could answer security
    questions and "recover your password", perhaps via email.

    But you already know how to hack your way into the computer,
    so you hardly need this.

    You might need an MSA some day, to get software from the Microsoft Store. >>>> For example, there's some CODEC that costs $1.50 or so, which may help >>>> with movie playback or something. But generally, there isn't a lot
    of reasons to go there.

    A yellow triangle could be a real security issue.
    But just as easily, it could be a message from a marketing weasel.

    *******

    You get a small amount of free storage on OneDrive. It might be
    great for distributing materials. Or as a kind of backup
    for a few items in your Downloads folder. You can control the
    distribution to make it private or public, and public is what
    you'd use for your "cat photos" :-) Then you would give other
    people a "link" to the cat photo. That's the sort of thing you
    could do with OneDrive. But for basic backups, you have local
    hard drives that are working just fine.

         Paul



    This is the card I bought:

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019

    I have to say its hard to find Treeview on
    Win 10,.. it doesn't have the All Programs
    that Win 7 Pro does.

    What about the Account Protection and App
    & Browser Control with yellow triangles?
    dismiss them?

    https://postlmg.cc/k27zDFVx


    Things still to do...

    1. make a homepage on Win 10 with about:blank
    2. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
        via 1TB Patriot(I'll order it on the 24th).
    3. create a mrimg on Win 10 when your satisfied
        were done.
    4. do the 8500 Win 10, I checked and it only
        will hold one hd at a time. So I'll have to
        physically remove the Win 7 Pro hd and replace
        it with Win 10 hd. It also has no hd harness
        like the 780 but is screwed directly into the
        frame with (4) screws.

        I've done it before but you'd think they would
        design it a bit more user friendly.

    Thoughts/Suggestions?
    Robert

    They do mention the power cable, but it only gets mentioned
    in the "Windows says the USB device is not getting enough power"
    section of the manual.

        https://www.vantecusa.com/CKEdit/images/files/ugt-pc345_manual.pdf

    Like my card, it does seem the design of yours has potentially
    the right materials on board. There is a 2 ampere power
    converter in the upper left corner. A converter for core power
    for the chip. And what could be a schottky diode ORing scheme
    for +5V summation with the onboard 5V2A converter.

        [Picture]

        https://i.postimg.cc/R0sjTmck/vantecusa-ugt-pc345-USB3-4port.jpg

    The reviews on Newegg, have mixed some other product reviews in,
    specifically the VIA chipset board that does not work as well
    (some versions of driver are buggy for that one).

    But a couple people mention they could not get external
    device detection unless the "optional" power cable (Molex 1x4)
    is connected to the ugt-pc345.

    See if your card exactly matches the Newegg picture or see if
    there are "more de-pops" on your physical card than the example
    photos. It's unlikely they would test the card at the factory
    (with optional connector disconnected) and not notice the
    power converter was not working.

    Since the device seems to show up, it's my wild guess the
    Renesas 720201 is getting core power, the firmware is loading,
    but perhaps there's no VBUS on the external USB3 connectors. And that would >> play a part if failing to detect.

    *******

    This is a LP4 Female to two LP4 males. A Y cable.

    https://www.newegg.com/multi-color-startech-9-cable-connectors/p/N82E16812200042

    Normally these are relatively short. A "good" one might be at best 9 inches >> on either side of the Y.

    I have one Y cable, which is 18 inches on one leg and 9 inches on the
    other leg. This cable came with an ATI video card, and presumably the
    long cable, was to reach the end of the ATI 9800Pro, something like that.

    You can place multiple Y cables in-line, to achieve a longer length on
    one leg.

    You could for example, take the Molex off one of your optical drives,
    and insert a Y in there. The short side of the Y cables would go
    to the optical drive. The extended path of multiple Y cables, would
    reach all the way down to the USB card.

         ATX Molex male --- female lp4lp4 --------- to optical drive
                         6       \
                                6 \
                                   female lp4lp4 ---------X
                                    \
                                   6 \
                                      female lp4lp4 ---------X
                                       \
                                      6 \
                                       Renesas >>                                    AuxPower

         ATX Molex male --- female lp4lp4 --------- to optical drive
                         9       \
                                9 \
                                   \
                                    female lp4lp4 ---------X
                                     \
                                    9 \
                                       \
                                      Renesas >>                                   AuxPower >>
    Using my boundless supply of spare wire, I'd just cut one leg of the
    Y in two pieces, and insert pieces of extension wire, to make a single
    asymmetric Y long enough for the job. But, you need flexible wire.
    Lamp cord wire is heavy enough. You'd need a nice lamp cord wire
    you could split, to maintain good flexibility. and you need an excellent
    supply of Marettes/WireNuts to make the connections. Soldering and using
    Polyolefin sleeves is too much work. As long as you use the right size
    of WireNut, you can extend a Molex Y.

    Anyway, that's an illustration of how you'd get power down there.
    It's too bad the damn Y cables are so short, because for this job,
    the longer the individual units are, the fewer (in-a-row) needed.
    I'm guessing the distance is at least 20 inches, and you want a bit
    of slack, as making it like a guitar string is not convenient
    when working inside a PC.

    The reason all these theatrics are required, is the PCIe connector
    only has +3.3V and +12V in the power section of the edge connector,
    and there's no incoming +5V. The onboard 2 amp converter is
    supposed to convert +12V to +5V (buck converter) and do it relatively
    efficiently so the chip does not get too hot. Using the Aux Connector,
    the +5V on the Y-cable can be used without conversion. Only
    if they "forgot" to install the converter in the upper left
    corner, should the card be devoid of VBUS on the external connector.

        Paul





    Success!

    You pointed me in the right direction. I used the
    optical drive cable and connected it to the PCI
    Molex cable.

    https://postimg.cc/vgkctGCP # Can't disable optical drive, without informing BIOS SATA enables

    https://postimg.cc/mzvgF8FJ # USB stick seen

    https://postimg.cc/N2twcVXs # Properties, 8GB stick

    https://postimg.cc/LJWKXhP0 # Safely remove icon

    https://postimg.cc/3dR3Js6N # Has an eject, could be NTFS.


    I'll have to put the optical cable back of course, but
    I wanted to test it and see if it would work.

    I'll have to order cables on the 24th,.. but I don't
    know if the one you showed will be long enough?
    I'll need male/female connections. one for the PCI
    card and one for the optical cable connection.

    What about the Windows Security yellow triangles?
    Should I dismiss them or what?

    https://postlmg.cc/k27zDFVx

    Robert

    I leave some of my yellow triangles turned off.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/qM2Kw0Ft/cloud-delivered-protection.gif

    Thus, mine has *always* had a yellow triangle on it :-)

    *******

    Good to hear your USB3 card responded to some urging.

    It's unclear why this is necessary. My guess would be, the
    2 amp converter chip is missing (during COVID a number of
    chips were hard to get, and you never know). You should
    keep an eyeball peeled for shenanigans in the card design.
    Something has to be missing.

    That really should not have happened.

    It's a shame they don't have better product offerings.
    Like, if there was a simple Molex extender, you could use
    one of those "excessively short" Y cables, and locate it
    near the optical drive, then run an extender down to the
    USB3 card.

    Extenders range in price from $1.50 to $31.00 . The Startech
    versions of stuff are never the cheapest, but at least there
    is a picture. The median size seems to be 12 inches, so
    two of these ought to do it, plus one Y cable.

    https://www.startech.com/en-us/cables/lp4powext12

    ATX Molex ---- Y cable --------- to optical drive
    \
    \ Extender 12" Extender 12"
    \_____________X________________X PCIe USB3 card

    I don't know what the correct terminology is for the gender.
    While there might be such a thing as a "reverse" Y cable,
    those are used for different output options. ATX12V 2x2 or
    2x4 powering, being examples of Y-cables that work in the
    opposite direction. You don't want one of these. And for
    the LP4 to LP4 case, those usually always go in the correct
    direction. Likely the same with the twelve inch extension cables.

    ( Y cable that works in reverse, when power supply is missing the 2x4 connector... )

    https://www.amazon.com/YiKaiEn-Molex-Video-Power-Supply/dp/B0BQS69CJT

    I checked my local computer store, and it has the 12" extender for
    only $2.49 . The reason it is so cheap, is it is "own-brand". The
    computer store name is on the bag. They just get these from China
    and put them in a bag. But, it is cheap, and who can argue :-) Their
    Y-cable won't be as cheap. The danger with my computer store, is
    they stock so little merch, you could easily "use up all the cables
    in town" in one visit to the store. Of the four outlets in town,
    only one store has extenders, and they have a grand total of six of them.
    I could buy all six and make a skipping rope.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 15 20:33:09 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/15/2024 5:16 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Here's TreeViwer:

    https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S

    Robert

    Yup. Looks good.

    Paul




    I need another source for the Y cable beside Amazon.
    Remember my account there has a snafu that they can't
    resolve so I don't deal with them anymore.

    I know what you mean about the lack of merchandize;
    when I went looking for DVD+RDL's I went to 3 stores
    and all of them had very little on the shelves and no
    DVD-RDL's and ended up having to buy them eBay.

    I'll leave the yellow triangles as is,...

    How do I make FF my homepage in Win10? and then
    make about:blank my homepage?.

    Things still to do...

    1. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
    2. buy molex cables for PCI 3.0 ports and attach to optical cable
    3. created mrimg on 780 Win 10 when your satisfied
    were done.
    4. do the 8500 Win 10

    Robert


    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 15 20:41:35 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/15/2024 5:16 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Here's TreeViwer:

    https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S

    Robert

    Yup. Looks good.

    Paul



    I mean I have FF as my browser but there's no homepage icon in
    Win 10.

    Robert


    _


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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 15 20:38:27 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/15/2024 5:16 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Here's TreeViwer:

    https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S

    Robert

    Yup. Looks good.

    Paul


    I need another source for the Y cable beside Amazon.
    Remember my account there has a snafu that they can't
    resolve so I don't deal with them anymore.

    I know what you mean about the lack of merchandize;
    when I went looking for DVD+RDL's I went to 3 stores
    and all of them had very little on the shelves and no
    DVD-RDL's and ended up having to buy them eBay.

    I'll leave the yellow triangles as is,...

    How do I make FF my homepage in Win10? and then
    make about:blank my homepage?.

    Things still to do...

    1. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
    2.. buy molex cables for PCI 3.0 ports and attach to optical cable
    3. created mrimg on 780 Win 10 when your satisfied
    were done.
    4. do the 8500 Win 10

    Robert


    _


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Jan 16 02:33:43 2024
    On 1/15/2024 11:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/15/2024 5:16 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Here's TreeViwer:

    https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S

    Robert

    Yup. Looks good.

        Paul

    I need another source for the Y cable beside Amazon.
    Remember my account there has a snafu that they can't
    resolve so I don't deal with them anymore.

    I know what you mean about the lack of merchandize;
    when I went looking for DVD+RDL's I went to 3 stores
    and all of them had very little on the shelves and no
    DVD-RDL's and ended up having to buy them eBay.

    I'll leave the yellow triangles as is,...

    How do I make FF my homepage in Win10? and then
    make about:blank my homepage?.

    Things still to do...

    1. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
    2. buy molex cables for PCI 3.0 ports and attach to optical cable
    3. created mrimg on 780 Win 10 when your satisfied
       were done.
    4. do the 8500 Win 10

    Robert

    You could get three or four of these. They're Molex Y but only 8".
    Four would give a bit of slack. Per requirements, each USB port has
    a 100uF electrolytic for VBus, and that's an anti-sag thing for
    VBUS during inrush. Things like USB keys, are allowed 10uF of
    capacitance for filtering, on their end. Intel, in its whitepaper
    for designers, states that 100uF on the host end, helps provide
    charge current to fill up a 10uF load on the peripheral. The
    capacitors also help with things like your extension cable project.

    Y-cable 8 inch legs, chain up to four to reach card and have slack $2.99 each

    https://www.microcenter.com/product/322061/evercool-4-pin-molex-power-y-cable-8

    These are too expensive for the length of wire provided. There's
    more wire and materials in the previous item, so this is just gouging.

    https://www.microcenter.com/product/618362/micro-connectors-4-pin-lp4-male-to-4-pin-lp4-female-power-extension-cable-10-in

    *******

    This is where you set the default browser.

    Settings : Apps : Default Apps

    *******

    Setting the homepage is harder.

    I didn't do a very good job on this one, it's not really coherent :-)
    The purpose of adding the new preference, is to try to avoid the
    homepage being overridden the next time the browser is updated
    (which is quite often). Just because you add a preference, does not
    mean the browser code uses the preference. It is a form of wishful
    thinking.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/RF4VzzPp/firefox-fix-newpage.gif

    Mozilla provides documentation, but it's guesswork as to what they really do.

    https://kb.mozillazine.org/Browser.startup.homepage_override.mstone

    https://kb.mozillazine.org/Startup.homepage_override_url

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 16 09:15:03 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/15/2024 11:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/15/2024 5:16 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Here's TreeViwer:

    https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S

    Robert

    Yup. Looks good.

        Paul

    I need another source for the Y cable beside Amazon.
    Remember my account there has a snafu that they can't
    resolve so I don't deal with them anymore.

    I know what you mean about the lack of merchandize;
    when I went looking for DVD+RDL's I went to 3 stores
    and all of them had very little on the shelves and no
    DVD-RDL's and ended up having to buy them eBay.

    I'll leave the yellow triangles as is,...

    How do I make FF my homepage in Win10? and then
    make about:blank my homepage?.

    Things still to do...

    1. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
    2. buy molex cables for PCI 3.0 ports and attach to optical cable
    3. created mrimg on 780 Win 10 when your satisfied
       were done.
    4. do the 8500 Win 10

    Robert

    You could get three or four of these. They're Molex Y but only 8".
    Four would give a bit of slack. Per requirements, each USB port has
    a 100uF electrolytic for VBus, and that's an anti-sag thing for
    VBUS during inrush. Things like USB keys, are allowed 10uF of
    capacitance for filtering, on their end. Intel, in its whitepaper
    for designers, states that 100uF on the host end, helps provide
    charge current to fill up a 10uF load on the peripheral. The
    capacitors also help with things like your extension cable project.

    Y-cable 8 inch legs, chain up to four to reach card and have slack $2.99 each

    https://www.microcenter.com/product/322061/evercool-4-pin-molex-power-y-cable-8

    These are too expensive for the length of wire provided. There's
    more wire and materials in the previous item, so this is just gouging.

    https://www.microcenter.com/product/618362/micro-connectors-4-pin-lp4-male-to-4-pin-lp4-female-power-extension-cable-10-in

    *******

    This is where you set the default browser.

    Settings : Apps : Default Apps

    *******

    Setting the homepage is harder.

    I didn't do a very good job on this one, it's not really coherent :-)
    The purpose of adding the new preference, is to try to avoid the
    homepage being overridden the next time the browser is updated
    (which is quite often). Just because you add a preference, does not
    mean the browser code uses the preference. It is a form of wishful
    thinking.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/RF4VzzPp/firefox-fix-newpage.gif

    Mozilla provides documentation, but it's guesswork as to what they really do.

    https://kb.mozillazine.org/Browser.startup.homepage_override.mstone

    https://kb.mozillazine.org/Startup.homepage_override_url

    Paul





    Here's the inside of the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/3W1pcT5L

    I disconnected the optical drive
    so the second connection down
    the cable would have enough length
    to reach my molex cable. I then
    connected my molex cable to it
    and we had success.

    I'll order the cables on the 24th and the
    1TB Patriot to copy/paste My Documents
    from the 8500 to the 780.

    I already set the Apps and FF as my
    default browser.

    I remember reading somewhere that
    Win 10 doesn't have a homepage
    like Win 7. They did away with it.

    I read your instructions for about:blank,
    and the Start-up homepage overide. whew!@!!

    Hmmmmm seems allot like hacking ,..

    and I never liked going into about:config
    that's too dangerous. It seems that they did
    do away with the homepage/icon on Win 10
    because I didn't have to do all this on Win 7.

    I think I'll leave it as is. I don't want to mess
    things up just to get about blank and I didn't
    realize it was going to be this much work.
    We have enough on our plate as it is.

    I guess I'll just have to get use to not having
    it on Win 10.

    Once I move My Documents and connect the
    PCI card with 3.0 ports with molex cables. We
    should be done and can run a mrimg on the 780
    Win 10.

    What do you think?

    Robert


    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Jan 16 12:39:18 2024
    On 1/16/2024 12:15 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/15/2024 11:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/15/2024 5:16 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Here's TreeViwer:

    https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S

    Robert

    Yup. Looks good.

         Paul

    I need another source for the Y cable beside Amazon.
    Remember my account there has a snafu that they can't
    resolve so I don't deal with them anymore.

    I know what you mean about the lack of merchandize;
    when I went looking for DVD+RDL's I went to 3 stores
    and all of them had very little on the shelves and no
    DVD-RDL's and ended up having to buy them eBay.

    I'll leave the yellow triangles as is,...

    How do I make FF my homepage in Win10? and then
    make about:blank my homepage?.

    Things still to do...

    1. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
    2. buy molex cables for PCI 3.0 ports and attach to optical cable
    3. created mrimg on 780 Win 10 when your satisfied
        were done.
    4. do the 8500 Win 10

    Robert

    You could get three or four of these. They're Molex Y but only 8".
    Four would give a bit of slack. Per requirements, each USB port has
    a 100uF electrolytic for VBus, and that's an anti-sag thing for
    VBUS during inrush. Things like USB keys, are allowed 10uF of
    capacitance for filtering, on their end. Intel, in its whitepaper
    for designers, states that 100uF on the host end, helps provide
    charge current to fill up a 10uF load on the peripheral. The
    capacitors also help with things like your extension cable project.

    Y-cable 8 inch legs, chain up to four to reach card and have slack  $2.99 each

        https://www.microcenter.com/product/322061/evercool-4-pin-molex-power-y-cable-8

    These are too expensive for the length of wire provided. There's
    more wire and materials in the previous item, so this is just gouging.

        https://www.microcenter.com/product/618362/micro-connectors-4-pin-lp4-male-to-4-pin-lp4-female-power-extension-cable-10-in

    *******

    This is where you set the default browser.

    Settings : Apps : Default Apps

    *******

    Setting the homepage is harder.

    I didn't do a very good job on this one, it's not really coherent :-)
    The purpose of adding the new preference, is to try to avoid the
    homepage being overridden the next time the browser is updated
    (which is quite often). Just because you add a preference, does not
    mean the browser code uses the preference. It is a form of wishful
    thinking.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/RF4VzzPp/firefox-fix-newpage.gif

    Mozilla provides documentation, but it's guesswork as to what they really do.

        https://kb.mozillazine.org/Browser.startup.homepage_override.mstone >>
        https://kb.mozillazine.org/Startup.homepage_override_url

      Paul





    Here's the inside of the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/3W1pcT5L

    I disconnected the optical drive
    so the second connection down
    the cable would have enough length
    to reach my molex cable. I then
    connected my molex cable to it
    and we had success.

    I'll order the cables on the 24th and the
    1TB Patriot to copy/paste My Documents
    from the 8500 to the 780.

    I already set the Apps and FF as my
    default browser.

    I remember reading somewhere that
    Win 10 doesn't have a homepage
    like Win 7. They did away with it.

    I read your instructions for about:blank,
    and the Start-up homepage overide. whew!@!!

    Hmmmmm seems allot like hacking ,..

    and I never liked going into about:config
    that's too dangerous. It seems that they did
    do away with the homepage/icon on Win 10
    because I didn't have to do all this on Win 7.

    I think I'll leave it as is. I don't want to mess
    things up just to get about blank and I didn't
    realize it was going to be this much work.
    We have enough on our plate as it is.

    I guess I'll just have to get use to not having
    it on Win 10.

    Once I move My Documents and connect the
    PCI card with 3.0 ports with molex cables. We
    should be done and can run a mrimg on the 780
    Win 10.

    What do you think?

    Robert

    That sounds like a reasonable plan.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 16 16:17:37 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/16/2024 12:15 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/15/2024 11:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/15/2024 5:16 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Here's TreeViwer:

    https://postimg.cc/4HnSH70S

    Robert

    Yup. Looks good.

         Paul

    I need another source for the Y cable beside Amazon.
    Remember my account there has a snafu that they can't
    resolve so I don't deal with them anymore.

    I know what you mean about the lack of merchandize;
    when I went looking for DVD+RDL's I went to 3 stores
    and all of them had very little on the shelves and no
    DVD-RDL's and ended up having to buy them eBay.

    I'll leave the yellow triangles as is,...

    How do I make FF my homepage in Win10? and then
    make about:blank my homepage?.

    Things still to do...

    1. copy/paste My Documents from 8500 to 780
    2. buy molex cables for PCI 3.0 ports and attach to optical cable
    3. created mrimg on 780 Win 10 when your satisfied
        were done.
    4. do the 8500 Win 10

    Robert

    You could get three or four of these. They're Molex Y but only 8".
    Four would give a bit of slack. Per requirements, each USB port has
    a 100uF electrolytic for VBus, and that's an anti-sag thing for
    VBUS during inrush. Things like USB keys, are allowed 10uF of
    capacitance for filtering, on their end. Intel, in its whitepaper
    for designers, states that 100uF on the host end, helps provide
    charge current to fill up a 10uF load on the peripheral. The
    capacitors also help with things like your extension cable project.

    Y-cable 8 inch legs, chain up to four to reach card and have slack  $2.99 each

        https://www.microcenter.com/product/322061/evercool-4-pin-molex-power-y-cable-8

    These are too expensive for the length of wire provided. There's
    more wire and materials in the previous item, so this is just gouging.

        https://www.microcenter.com/product/618362/micro-connectors-4-pin-lp4-male-to-4-pin-lp4-female-power-extension-cable-10-in

    *******

    This is where you set the default browser.

    Settings : Apps : Default Apps

    *******

    Setting the homepage is harder.

    I didn't do a very good job on this one, it's not really coherent :-)
    The purpose of adding the new preference, is to try to avoid the
    homepage being overridden the next time the browser is updated
    (which is quite often). Just because you add a preference, does not
    mean the browser code uses the preference. It is a form of wishful
    thinking.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/RF4VzzPp/firefox-fix-newpage.gif

    Mozilla provides documentation, but it's guesswork as to what they really do.

        https://kb.mozillazine.org/Browser.startup.homepage_override.mstone >>>
        https://kb.mozillazine.org/Startup.homepage_override_url

      Paul





    Here's the inside of the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/3W1pcT5L

    I disconnected the optical drive
    so the second connection down
    the cable would have enough length
    to reach my molex cable. I then
    connected my molex cable to it
    and we had success.

    I'll order the cables on the 24th and the
    1TB Patriot to copy/paste My Documents
    from the 8500 to the 780.

    I already set the Apps and FF as my
    default browser.

    I remember reading somewhere that
    Win 10 doesn't have a homepage
    like Win 7. They did away with it.

    I read your instructions for about:blank,
    and the Start-up homepage overide. whew!@!!

    Hmmmmm seems allot like hacking ,..

    and I never liked going into about:config
    that's too dangerous. It seems that they did
    do away with the homepage/icon on Win 10
    because I didn't have to do all this on Win 7.

    I think I'll leave it as is. I don't want to mess
    things up just to get about blank and I didn't
    realize it was going to be this much work.
    We have enough on our plate as it is.

    I guess I'll just have to get use to not having
    it on Win 10.

    Once I move My Documents and connect the
    PCI card with 3.0 ports with molex cables. We
    should be done and can run a mrimg on the 780
    Win 10.

    What do you think?

    Robert

    That sounds like a reasonable plan.

    Paul




    So for now we can take a break and I'll order the molex
    cables from your links and the 1TB Patriot stick on the
    24th and will let you know when I get them and we can
    resume.

    Thanks,
    Robert


    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Jan 16 20:11:54 2024
    On 1/16/2024 7:17 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    So for now we can take a break and I'll order the molex
    cables from your links and the 1TB Patriot stick on the
    24th and will let you know when I get them and we can
    resume.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    OK.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Jan 18 14:33:06 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/16/2024 7:17 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    So for now we can take a break and I'll order the molex
    cables from your links and the 1TB Patriot stick on the
    24th and will let you know when I get them and we can
    resume.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    OK.

    Paul




    I went back and reviewed the links for the molex cables.
    It seems it will work with just (2) Startech molex cables
    so where do I splice in the Y-molex cable?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Jan 19 20:32:33 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/16/2024 7:17 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    So for now we can take a break and I'll order the molex
    cables from your links and the 1TB Patriot stick on the
    24th and will let you know when I get them and we can
    resume.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    OK.

    Paul





    How do I turn off the Windows backup pop-up
    that keeps popping up?

    https://postimg.cc/ppSMfMcz

    Thanks,
    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Jan 20 16:52:29 2024
    On 1/19/2024 11:32 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    How do I turn off the Windows backup pop-up
    that keeps popping up?

    https://postimg.cc/ppSMfMcz

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Settings : System : Notifications & Actions

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/sXDmY2Xk/w10-notifications.gif

    Those will get switched back on, during a Repair install
    or a Clean install.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Jan 20 16:20:30 2024
    On 1/18/2024 5:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/16/2024 7:17 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I went back and reviewed the links for the molex cables.
    It seems it will work with just (2) Startech molex cables
    so where do I splice in the Y-molex cable?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Picking off the connection from the back of
    the optical drive is good. There might not be a
    lot of other points with a Molex in there.

    Have a look around and see if you can spot any more
    Molex in there. The optical drive might be the area
    with them.

    There are SATA to Molex and Molex to SATA cables, but those
    might not be long enough, and then you have to decide
    whether a right-angle or a straight cable fits best.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Jan 20 16:34:34 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/19/2024 11:32 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    How do I turn off the Windows backup pop-up
    that keeps popping up?

    https://postimg.cc/ppSMfMcz

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Settings : System : Notifications & Actions

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/sXDmY2Xk/w10-notifications.gif

    Those will get switched back on, during a Repair install
    or a Clean install.

    Paul





    So were just covering all the bases with the Y- connector;
    I've thought about it and I think just (2-3) Startech cables
    will work. Just connect them in tandem and then my molex
    cable with the connection at the end connects to the optical
    cable.

    There doesn't seem to be any other molex connections. The
    only other connection is the extra hd connection(black).

    https://postimg.cc/QBFGsMdn


    I followed your instructions and turned off the notifications
    and restarted the computer to install updates and all looks
    good.

    I'll order the Patriots 1 TB sticks and molex cables on the 24th,.....


    Thanks,
    Robert





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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Jan 21 00:28:42 2024
    On 1/20/2024 7:34 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    So were just covering all the bases with the Y- connector;
    I've thought about it and I think just (2-3) Startech cables
    will work. Just connect them in tandem and then my molex
    cable with the connection at the end connects to the optical
    cable.

    There doesn't seem to be any other molex connections. The
    only other connection is the extra hd connection(black).

    https://postimg.cc/QBFGsMdn


    I followed your instructions and turned off the notifications
    and restarted the computer to install  updates and all looks
    good.

    I'll order the Patriots 1 TB sticks and molex cables on the 24th,.....


    Thanks,
    Robert

    One of the chains has two Molex on it, and the end Molex goes
    to your optical drive. The other Molex is open and could be
    used for an extension cable.

    The two connectors in the drive bay area, those are SATA aren't they ?

    One thing I notice about your USB3 card, is it has three rather large
    green capacitors on the board, as if someone has modded the board ???
    It does not match the Newegg picture perfectly.

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019

    Paul

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jan 21 04:10:38 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/20/2024 7:34 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    So were just covering all the bases with the Y- connector;
    I've thought about it and I think just (2-3) Startech cables
    will work. Just connect them in tandem and then my molex
    cable with the connection at the end connects to the optical
    cable.

    There doesn't seem to be any other molex connections. The
    only other connection is the extra hd connection(black).

    https://postimg.cc/QBFGsMdn


    I followed your instructions and turned off the notifications
    and restarted the computer to install  updates and all looks
    good.

    I'll order the Patriots 1 TB sticks and molex cables on the 24th,.....


    Thanks,
    Robert

    One of the chains has two Molex on it, and the end Molex goes
    to your optical drive. The other Molex is open and could be
    used for an extension cable.

    The two connectors in the drive bay area, those are SATA aren't they ?

    One thing I notice about your USB3 card, is it has three rather large
    green capacitors on the board, as if someone has modded the board ???
    It does not match the Newegg picture perfectly.

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019

    Paul




    OIC, you want me to use the Y connection at the PCI card
    and then attach the molex cables on one side leaving the other
    open. Yes, those are SATA connections and where I connect to
    the optical cable.

    Hmmm interesting about the card,, I'll take pics of it for you
    when I do the cables.

    Were getting close to finishing,. then create a mrimg and were
    done.

    Then we turn to the 8500,......

    Thanks,
    Robert



    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Jan 21 21:06:01 2024
    On 1/21/2024 7:10 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/20/2024 7:34 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    So were just covering all the bases with the Y- connector;
    I've thought about it and I think just (2-3) Startech cables
    will work. Just connect them in tandem and then my molex
    cable with the connection at the end connects to the optical
    cable.

    There doesn't seem to be any other molex connections. The
    only other connection is the extra hd connection(black).

    https://postimg.cc/QBFGsMdn


    I followed your instructions and turned off the notifications
    and restarted the computer to install  updates and all looks
    good.

    I'll order the Patriots 1 TB sticks and molex cables on the 24th,.....


    Thanks,
    Robert

    One of the chains has two Molex on it, and the end Molex goes
    to your optical drive. The other Molex is open and could be
    used for an extension cable.

    The two connectors in the drive bay area, those are SATA aren't they ?

    One thing I notice about your USB3 card, is it has three rather large
    green capacitors on the board, as if someone has modded the board ???
    It does not match the Newegg picture perfectly.

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019

         Paul




    OIC, you want me to use the Y connection at the PCI card
    and then attach the molex cables on one side leaving the other
    open. Yes, those are SATA connections and where I connect to
    the optical cable.

    Hmmm interesting about the card,, I'll take pics of it for you
    when I do the cables.

    Were getting close to finishing,. then create a mrimg and were
    done.

    Then we turn to the 8500,......

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Where the optical drive power was connected before,
    you can fit a Y-cable between it and the drive, and
    then end up with an extra power connection to use
    elsewhere.

    The other Y-cables, it would make more sense if they were
    straight extension cables, but the price determines what
    you buy, rather than the practicality. In the picture,
    I just wrapped ties around them to tidy them up a bit.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/J7vCcDNb/Y-cables-for-power.jpg

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jan 21 20:13:12 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/21/2024 7:10 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/20/2024 7:34 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    So were just covering all the bases with the Y- connector;
    I've thought about it and I think just (2-3) Startech cables
    will work. Just connect them in tandem and then my molex
    cable with the connection at the end connects to the optical
    cable.

    There doesn't seem to be any other molex connections. The
    only other connection is the extra hd connection(black).

    https://postimg.cc/QBFGsMdn


    I followed your instructions and turned off the notifications
    and restarted the computer to install  updates and all looks
    good.

    I'll order the Patriots 1 TB sticks and molex cables on the 24th,..... >>>>

    Thanks,
    Robert

    One of the chains has two Molex on it, and the end Molex goes
    to your optical drive. The other Molex is open and could be
    used for an extension cable.

    The two connectors in the drive bay area, those are SATA aren't they ?

    One thing I notice about your USB3 card, is it has three rather large
    green capacitors on the board, as if someone has modded the board ???
    It does not match the Newegg picture perfectly.

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-model-ugt-pc345-pci-express-to-usb-card/p/N82E16815287019

         Paul




    OIC, you want me to use the Y connection at the PCI card
    and then attach the molex cables on one side leaving the other
    open. Yes, those are SATA connections and where I connect to
    the optical cable.

    Hmmm interesting about the card,, I'll take pics of it for you
    when I do the cables.

    Were getting close to finishing,. then create a mrimg and were
    done.

    Then we turn to the 8500,......

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Where the optical drive power was connected before,
    you can fit a Y-cable between it and the drive, and
    then end up with an extra power connection to use
    elsewhere.

    The other Y-cables, it would make more sense if they were
    straight extension cables, but the price determines what
    you buy, rather than the practicality. In the picture,
    I just wrapped ties around them to tidy them up a bit.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/J7vCcDNb/Y-cables-for-power.jpg

    Paul



    I can't connect the Y cable to the optical cable because
    its a SATA connection. Instead, I was thinking of connecting
    it to the PCI card end and then attach the Startech cables
    to it and finally the molex cable that came with the kit that
    has the SATA connector to connect to the optical cable and
    that would still leave one extra connection.

    I'm a little apprehensive about the 8500 Win 10 and what
    we'll find. If it is even Win 10 or Win 7 Pro? There shouldn't
    be another User Account with pin number that I'll have to
    hack around. If there is then it means it came with the Win 10
    upgrade.

    Robert


    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jan 21 22:01:19 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/21/2024 11:13 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I can't connect the Y cable to the optical cable because
    its a SATA connection. Instead, I was thinking of connecting
    it to the PCI card end and then attach the Startech cables
    to it and finally the molex cable that came with the kit that
    has the SATA connector to connect to the optical cable and
    that would still leave one extra connection.

    I'm a little apprehensive about the 8500 Win 10 and what
    we'll find. If it is even Win 10 or Win 7 Pro? There shouldn't
    be another User Account with pin number that I'll have to
    hack around. If there is then it means it came with the Win 10
    upgrade.

    Robert

    There used to be a free upgrade. The offer closed a couple months ago.

    Install Win10
    __/ Win7 SP1 ---------------------------- Win10 (license registers itself
    | \ Win 8.1 ------------------ with a Microsoft server)
    |
    |____ Qualifying OS
    OS has license

    You would not have to use the OS at that point. Once the disk drive
    has booted once or twice,

    slmgr /dlv

    would tell you the OS was "licensed". This is just to show you
    what the dialog looks like that presents the info when you ask.
    Then, if you installed the OS on that same computer two years
    later, it would report itself "licensed", without any extra ceremonies.

    That is why you would have wanted to install it two years ago.
    Just to "generate" a license for the day you actually wanted the OS.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/bJxHZmtw/win11-slmgr-dlv-window.gif

    Paul




    I believe we did the free upgrade some time ago when
    they offered it but we won't know for sure until I
    switch hd's.

    If the 8500 had more than one bay for hd's I would
    install the Win 10 hd so we could see what we have
    and do your commands. Unfortunately, it has only
    the one bay. So we have to wait until we get the 780
    completed because that's going to be my only means
    of communication once I switch hd's on the 8500 and
    put in the Win 10 hd.

    Robert






    _


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Jan 22 00:27:06 2024
    On 1/21/2024 11:13 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I can't connect the Y cable to the optical cable because
    its a SATA connection. Instead, I was thinking of connecting
    it to the PCI card end and then attach the Startech cables
    to it and finally the molex cable that came with the kit that
    has the SATA connector to connect to the optical cable and
    that would still leave one extra connection.

    I'm a little apprehensive about the 8500 Win 10 and what
    we'll find. If it is even Win 10 or Win 7 Pro? There shouldn't
    be another User Account with pin number that I'll have to
    hack around. If there is then it means it came with the Win 10
    upgrade.

    Robert

    There used to be a free upgrade. The offer closed a couple months ago.

    Install Win10
    __/ Win7 SP1 ---------------------------- Win10 (license registers itself
    | \ Win 8.1 ------------------ with a Microsoft server)
    |
    |____ Qualifying OS
    OS has license

    You would not have to use the OS at that point. Once the disk drive
    has booted once or twice,

    slmgr /dlv

    would tell you the OS was "licensed". This is just to show you
    what the dialog looks like that presents the info when you ask.
    Then, if you installed the OS on that same computer two years
    later, it would report itself "licensed", without any extra ceremonies.

    That is why you would have wanted to install it two years ago.
    Just to "generate" a license for the day you actually wanted the OS.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/bJxHZmtw/win11-slmgr-dlv-window.gif

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Jan 23 18:52:10 2024
    On 1/22/2024 1:01 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/21/2024 11:13 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I can't connect the Y cable to the optical cable because
    its a SATA connection. Instead, I was thinking of connecting
    it to the PCI card end and then attach the Startech cables
    to it and finally the molex cable that came with the kit that
    has the SATA connector to connect to the optical cable and
    that would still leave one extra connection.

    I'm a little apprehensive about the 8500 Win 10 and what
    we'll find. If it is even Win 10 or Win 7 Pro? There shouldn't
    be another User Account with pin number that I'll have to
    hack around. If there is then it means it came with the Win 10
    upgrade.

    Robert

    There used to be a free upgrade. The offer closed a couple months ago.

                          Install Win10
      __/ Win7 SP1 ---------------------------- Win10 (license registers itself >> |  \ Win 8.1  ------------------           with a Microsoft server)
    |
    |____ Qualifying OS
           OS has license

    You would not have to use the OS at that point. Once the disk drive
    has booted once or twice,

         slmgr /dlv

    would tell you the OS was "licensed". This is just to show you
    what the dialog looks like that presents the info when you ask.
    Then, if you installed the OS on that same computer two years
    later, it would report itself "licensed", without any extra ceremonies.

    That is why you would have wanted to install it two years ago.
    Just to "generate" a license for the day you actually wanted the OS.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/bJxHZmtw/win11-slmgr-dlv-window.gif

        Paul




    I believe we did the free upgrade some time ago when
    they offered it but we won't know for sure until I
    switch hd's.

    If the 8500 had more than one bay for hd's I would
    install the Win 10 hd so we could see what we have
    and do your commands. Unfortunately, it has only
    the one bay. So we have to wait until we get the 780
    completed because that's going to be my only means
    of communication once I switch hd's on the 8500 and
    put in the Win 10 hd.

    Robert

    The Owners Manual for the 8500, shows there is a "cage" that
    bolts next to the primary drive, and that is where a secondary
    drive might go.

    But you can see this better than I can.

    The optical drive bays (two of them), could hold hard drives.

    The primary hard drive apparently bolts to a structure in the chassis.
    And there is a cage very close to that, the cage bolts to the chassis,
    and has fingers that slide into the chassis metal to secure it
    while you are fitting the bolts.

    It is not very convenient, that sort of thing. Bolting and unbolting
    them takes time.

    It's possible you may be able to fit a second drive... without
    having to resort to a "rail-kit" to do it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xS9HaguwtsE

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 23 20:52:05 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/22/2024 1:01 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/21/2024 11:13 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I can't connect the Y cable to the optical cable because
    its a SATA connection. Instead, I was thinking of connecting
    it to the PCI card end and then attach the Startech cables
    to it and finally the molex cable that came with the kit that
    has the SATA connector to connect to the optical cable and
    that would still leave one extra connection.

    I'm a little apprehensive about the 8500 Win 10 and what
    we'll find. If it is even Win 10 or Win 7 Pro? There shouldn't
    be another User Account with pin number that I'll have to
    hack around. If there is then it means it came with the Win 10
    upgrade.

    Robert

    There used to be a free upgrade. The offer closed a couple months ago.

                          Install Win10
      __/ Win7 SP1 ---------------------------- Win10 (license registers itself
    |  \ Win 8.1  ------------------           with a Microsoft server)
    |
    |____ Qualifying OS
           OS has license

    You would not have to use the OS at that point. Once the disk drive
    has booted once or twice,

         slmgr /dlv

    would tell you the OS was "licensed". This is just to show you
    what the dialog looks like that presents the info when you ask.
    Then, if you installed the OS on that same computer two years
    later, it would report itself "licensed", without any extra ceremonies.

    That is why you would have wanted to install it two years ago.
    Just to "generate" a license for the day you actually wanted the OS.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/bJxHZmtw/win11-slmgr-dlv-window.gif

        Paul




    I believe we did the free upgrade some time ago when
    they offered it but we won't know for sure until I
    switch hd's.

    If the 8500 had more than one bay for hd's I would
    install the Win 10 hd so we could see what we have
    and do your commands. Unfortunately, it has only
    the one bay. So we have to wait until we get the 780
    completed because that's going to be my only means
    of communication once I switch hd's on the 8500 and
    put in the Win 10 hd.

    Robert

    The Owners Manual for the 8500, shows there is a "cage" that
    bolts next to the primary drive, and that is where a secondary
    drive might go.

    But you can see this better than I can.

    The optical drive bays (two of them), could hold hard drives.

    The primary hard drive apparently bolts to a structure in the chassis.
    And there is a cage very close to that, the cage bolts to the chassis,
    and has fingers that slide into the chassis metal to secure it
    while you are fitting the bolts.

    It is not very convenient, that sort of thing. Bolting and unbolting
    them takes time.

    It's possible you may be able to fit a second drive... without
    having to resort to a "rail-kit" to do it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xS9HaguwtsE

    Paul




    I installed the Win 10 hd in the 8500. It only had 3 holes for screws.
    if there was a fourth hole I couldn't see it and was too far back for me
    to reach anyways. I took pics but for some reason they didn't show up
    when I cut/pasted the file to the computer. Anyways it had another
    strange user account that I couldn't get past that required a pin number
    or Microsoft password. So it looks like were going to have to hack again
    but at this point I don't even have a user account. I tried to do a Ctrl-Alt-Delete but it had no effect.

    If you want I can open it up again and switch the cables and take pics
    so you can see for yourself.

    Robert



    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Jan 24 02:58:04 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/22/2024 1:01 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/21/2024 11:13 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I can't connect the Y cable to the optical cable because
    its a SATA connection. Instead, I was thinking of connecting
    it to the PCI card end and then attach the Startech cables
    to it and finally the molex cable that came with the kit that
    has the SATA connector to connect to the optical cable and
    that would still leave one extra connection.

    I'm a little apprehensive about the 8500 Win 10 and what
    we'll find. If it is even Win 10 or Win 7 Pro? There shouldn't
    be another User Account with pin number that I'll have to
    hack around. If there is then it means it came with the Win 10
    upgrade.

    Robert

    There used to be a free upgrade. The offer closed a couple months ago.

                          Install Win10
      __/ Win7 SP1 ---------------------------- Win10 (license registers itself
    |  \ Win 8.1  ------------------           with a Microsoft server)
    |
    |____ Qualifying OS
           OS has license

    You would not have to use the OS at that point. Once the disk drive
    has booted once or twice,

         slmgr /dlv

    would tell you the OS was "licensed". This is just to show you
    what the dialog looks like that presents the info when you ask.
    Then, if you installed the OS on that same computer two years
    later, it would report itself "licensed", without any extra ceremonies.

    That is why you would have wanted to install it two years ago.
    Just to "generate" a license for the day you actually wanted the OS.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/bJxHZmtw/win11-slmgr-dlv-window.gif

        Paul




    I believe we did the free upgrade some time ago when
    they offered it but we won't know for sure until I
    switch hd's.

    If the 8500 had more than one bay for hd's I would
    install the Win 10 hd so we could see what we have
    and do your commands. Unfortunately, it has only
    the one bay. So we have to wait until we get the 780
    completed because that's going to be my only means
    of communication once I switch hd's on the 8500 and
    put in the Win 10 hd.

    Robert

    The Owners Manual for the 8500, shows there is a "cage" that
    bolts next to the primary drive, and that is where a secondary
    drive might go.

    But you can see this better than I can.

    The optical drive bays (two of them), could hold hard drives.

    The primary hard drive apparently bolts to a structure in the chassis.
    And there is a cage very close to that, the cage bolts to the chassis,
    and has fingers that slide into the chassis metal to secure it
    while you are fitting the bolts.

    It is not very convenient, that sort of thing. Bolting and unbolting
    them takes time.

    It's possible you may be able to fit a second drive... without
    having to resort to a "rail-kit" to do it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xS9HaguwtsE

    Paul






    I switched the cables again,, here's the 8500 Win 10

    https://postimg.cc/Mcb65HXR

    https://postimg.cc/xkYYXQgd

    https://postimg.cc/Mffgs3t4

    I bought the 1TB Patriot sticks and I tried to buy the Startech
    molex cables but there doesn't seem to be a way to pay for them?
    I also tried to buy the Y cable but I had to have a cell phone number.

    Could you please send me links so I can order and pay? Preferably
    through PayPal.

    Thanks,
    Robert


    _





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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Jan 24 17:06:34 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/22/2024 1:01 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/21/2024 11:13 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I can't connect the Y cable to the optical cable because
    its a SATA connection. Instead, I was thinking of connecting
    it to the PCI card end and then attach the Startech cables
    to it and finally the molex cable that came with the kit that
    has the SATA connector to connect to the optical cable and
    that would still leave one extra connection.

    I'm a little apprehensive about the 8500 Win 10 and what
    we'll find. If it is even Win 10 or Win 7 Pro? There shouldn't
    be another User Account with pin number that I'll have to
    hack around. If there is then it means it came with the Win 10
    upgrade.

    Robert

    There used to be a free upgrade. The offer closed a couple months ago.

                          Install Win10
      __/ Win7 SP1 ---------------------------- Win10 (license registers itself
    |  \ Win 8.1  ------------------           with a Microsoft server)
    |
    |____ Qualifying OS
           OS has license

    You would not have to use the OS at that point. Once the disk drive
    has booted once or twice,

         slmgr /dlv

    would tell you the OS was "licensed". This is just to show you
    what the dialog looks like that presents the info when you ask.
    Then, if you installed the OS on that same computer two years
    later, it would report itself "licensed", without any extra ceremonies.

    That is why you would have wanted to install it two years ago.
    Just to "generate" a license for the day you actually wanted the OS.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/bJxHZmtw/win11-slmgr-dlv-window.gif

        Paul




    I believe we did the free upgrade some time ago when
    they offered it but we won't know for sure until I
    switch hd's.

    If the 8500 had more than one bay for hd's I would
    install the Win 10 hd so we could see what we have
    and do your commands. Unfortunately, it has only
    the one bay. So we have to wait until we get the 780
    completed because that's going to be my only means
    of communication once I switch hd's on the 8500 and
    put in the Win 10 hd.

    Robert

    The Owners Manual for the 8500, shows there is a "cage" that
    bolts next to the primary drive, and that is where a secondary
    drive might go.

    But you can see this better than I can.

    The optical drive bays (two of them), could hold hard drives.

    The primary hard drive apparently bolts to a structure in the chassis.
    And there is a cage very close to that, the cage bolts to the chassis,
    and has fingers that slide into the chassis metal to secure it
    while you are fitting the bolts.

    It is not very convenient, that sort of thing. Bolting and unbolting
    them takes time.

    It's possible you may be able to fit a second drive... without
    having to resort to a "rail-kit" to do it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xS9HaguwtsE

    Paul




    I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...I'm having trouble
    finding the Y connection though......will this Y connection work? It has
    double set of wires though,..

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e

    Robert


    _





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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Jan 25 00:19:52 2024
    On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
    I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
    will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e

    Robert

    That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
    You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
    power connector to the card connector.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Jan 25 00:43:05 2024
    On 1/24/2024 5:58 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I switched the cables again,, here's the 8500 Win 10

    https://postimg.cc/Mcb65HXR

    https://postimg.cc/xkYYXQgd

    https://postimg.cc/Mffgs3t4

    I bought the 1TB Patriot sticks and I tried to buy the Startech
    molex cables but there doesn't seem to be a way to pay for them?
    I also tried to buy the Y cable but I had to have a cell phone number.

    Could you please send me links so I can order and pay? Preferably
    through PayPal.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    I gather then, you have never ever logged into that Win10 ?

    *******

    Using your Macrium CD, you can back up that OS installation
    if you want, and start again :-)

    Remember, you're now armed with Windows 10 installation media,
    22H2 version. That's your dual layer DVD disc. You are now
    "more capable" than you were previously. You can do a Clean Install
    using the DVD. That's why we made it.

    We don't know what it looks like, but say the disk layout looks like this.
    You could back this up and put it on an external, using your
    Macrium rescue CD as boot media during the backup.

    Boot Macrium CD

    +------+----------------+------------------+
    | MBR | Win10 foreign | System Reserved | ===> Store on external drive, label backup as "8500-foreign.mrimg"
    +------+----------------+------------------+

    Are there any other materials on the disk drive that you know of,
    which are important or need special treatment ? Are any of your
    backups on that drive, somewhere ? If there are, that's going to
    take a lot of space if just backed up. If the C: on that drive
    just has 20GB of stuff, it won't take that much space to back it up.

    Once you've shut down, you can unplug the external, so that only
    the internal "foreign" drive is present. Start up the Macrium CD again,
    and use the black Command Prompt icon.

    diskpart
    list disk
    select disk 0
    clean all # This will zero every bit of the drive so no foreign matter remains...
    # Do not do this, if you are unsure of what is on the drive.
    # This could take hours to run.
    exit # Exit diskpart
    exit # Command Prompt window in the Macrium desktop closes

    The "clean" command, only removes the MBR and GPT partition tables.
    Whereas "clean all" removes every byte stored on the drive.

    Shut down Macrium (remove the CD before clicking shutdown, insert the Win10 DVD but leave the tray open)

    Now, you can boot the Win10 media. Power up the PC, do a default install of Win10.

    It's going to ask you all sorts of stupid questions. For example, if it asks for
    an email address, don't give it an email address. That means you're using an MSA
    (MicroSoftAccount). You want to use a local account, and if you want an MSA, that can be added later without screwing up the home directory name.

    Step 25 here "To Set Up Windows 10 with a Local Account"

    https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/1950-clean-install-windows-10-a.html?s=e485187b61f5cc4bff768ab0aa071b41

    If Windows 10 Pro (version 2004), click/tap on the Offline account link at the bottom left. <===

    https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/220237d1547055736-clean-install-windows-10-a-local-1.png

    Then you should be able to use Rob as an account and so on.
    The account you create will be the Administrator account, so
    name it according to your preference. If you want to create
    an un-elevated account later, you can. But the first account is Administrator-capable, so you don't lose control of the install.

    Anyway, try out your skills and give the install a go.

    If you need to "bring back" the foreign installation, you have
    a backup of it, which can use if necessary.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Jan 25 08:46:19 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
    I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
    will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e

    Robert

    That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
    You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
    power connector to the card connector.

    Paul







    I bought the Y connection cable.

    Correct, I have never logged in to the 8500 Win 10

    I need to re-read it again.. I'm trying to follow what
    you're saying...I create a mrimg as is of the 8500 Win10
    just in case. Then you want me to use the 22H2 to do a
    clean install correct? I have nothing on the 8500 Win 10
    It's all on Win 7 Pro.

    However, before we do anything to the 8500 I want to
    finish the 780. There's still some things I need to do like
    copy/pasting My Documents to Win 10 and over write
    My Documents in Win 7 to bring it up to date and
    connecting the PCI cables.

    Once done I want to create a mrimg, so we don't loose our
    work.

    I have prepared though by putting all the links I'll need
    once I have Win 10 operational,. my bookmarks, My
    Documents, my A/V suite is all on a Patriot. Except for
    My Documents but it soon will be when I get the 1TB
    Patriot sticks.

    Robert


    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Jan 25 11:11:14 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
    I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
    will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e

    Robert

    That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
    You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
    power connector to the card connector.

    Paul



    1. I was reading through the instructions for a clean
    install of Windows 10. I assume I have all the
    requirements.

    2. Create a bootable Win10 USB? I believe we did that and put the ISO on
    a
    ScanDisk with the USB Adaptor.

    3. disconnect all other hd's

    I have my 8500 product key is that the same thing?

    Your instructions are easier to follow.

    ... on step 25 you start with a bogus phone number but it ends with
    having to enter an email address. OIC that's where I create a Admin
    Account. I think I'm getting a handle on it but as I say we need to
    finish the 780 first then we can turn to the 8500.

    I think when the cables arrive I'm going to remove the PCI card and do
    the cabling
    outside of the computer because its pretty restricted space inside the
    computer and
    difficult to remove the cable.

    Robert


    _






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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Jan 26 02:59:49 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/25/2024 2:11 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
    I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
    will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e

    Robert

    That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
    You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
    power connector to the card connector.

        Paul



    1. I was reading through the instructions for a clean
        install of Windows 10. I assume I have all the
        requirements.

    2. Create a bootable Win10 USB? I believe we did that and put the ISO on a >>     ScanDisk with the USB Adaptor.

     3. disconnect all other hd's

    I have my 8500 product key is that the same thing?

    Your instructions are easier to follow.

    ... on step 25 you start with a bogus phone number but it ends with having to enter an email address. OIC that's where I create a Admin Account. I think I'm getting a handle on it but as I say we need to finish the 780 first then we can turn to the
    8500.

    I think when the cables arrive I'm going to remove the PCI card and do the cabling
    outside of the computer because its pretty restricted space inside the computer and
    difficult to remove the cable.

    Robert

    Where it is marked in Yellow here, you want "Offline Account" and
    no email addresses to be entered.

    https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/220237d1547055736-clean-install-windows-10-a-local-1.png

    Using the Yellow thing, you enter a local account of "Rob", your home directory
    will be Rob. In other words, that Yellow thing is the path to work
    as if it was Windows 7 when defining an account.

    If you use the email address method, it fouls up your home directory name.

    I generally turn off all the rest of the "features" when I go through
    those screens.

    The first account you create there, is an Administrator account, so pick a login name you like for Administrator operation. Again, you can create a non-Administrator account later, after all those "stupid questions" are completed.

    Paul


    I was thinking,.. I'll have to make a folder for the 780 Win 10 mrimgs
    but I can't remember how I did it? Do I do it during the process but
    instead of putting it in Programs I create a folder outside of it? I don't
    see how I can access it otherwise. Also, how will I be able to create a
    mrimg for the 8500? I can't access it to create a folder for them so how where/how will I store it?

    Thanks,
    Robert



    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Jan 26 06:25:37 2024
    On 1/25/2024 2:11 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
    I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
    will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e

    Robert

    That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
    You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
    power connector to the card connector.

        Paul



    1. I was reading through the instructions for a clean
        install of Windows 10. I assume I have all the
        requirements.

    2. Create a bootable Win10 USB? I believe we did that and put the ISO on a     ScanDisk with the USB Adaptor.

     3. disconnect all other hd's

    I have my 8500 product key is that the same thing?

    Your instructions are easier to follow.

    ... on step 25 you start with a bogus phone number but it ends with having to enter an email address. OIC that's where I create a Admin Account. I think I'm getting a handle on it but as I say we need to finish the 780 first then we can turn to the
    8500.

    I think when the cables arrive I'm going to remove the PCI card and do the cabling
    outside of the computer because its pretty restricted space inside the computer and
    difficult to remove the cable.

    Robert

    Where it is marked in Yellow here, you want "Offline Account" and
    no email addresses to be entered.

    https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/220237d1547055736-clean-install-windows-10-a-local-1.png

    Using the Yellow thing, you enter a local account of "Rob", your home directory will be Rob. In other words, that Yellow thing is the path to work
    as if it was Windows 7 when defining an account.

    If you use the email address method, it fouls up your home directory name.

    I generally turn off all the rest of the "features" when I go through
    those screens.

    The first account you create there, is an Administrator account, so pick a login name you like for Administrator operation. Again, you can create a non-Administrator account later, after all those "stupid questions" are completed.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Jan 26 03:08:21 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/25/2024 2:11 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
    I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
    will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e

    Robert

    That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
    You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
    power connector to the card connector.

        Paul



    1. I was reading through the instructions for a clean
        install of Windows 10. I assume I have all the
        requirements.

    2. Create a bootable Win10 USB? I believe we did that and put the ISO on a >>     ScanDisk with the USB Adaptor.

     3. disconnect all other hd's

    I have my 8500 product key is that the same thing?

    Your instructions are easier to follow.

    ... on step 25 you start with a bogus phone number but it ends with having to enter an email address. OIC that's where I create a Admin Account. I think I'm getting a handle on it but as I say we need to finish the 780 first then we can turn to the
    8500.

    I think when the cables arrive I'm going to remove the PCI card and do the cabling
    outside of the computer because its pretty restricted space inside the computer and
    difficult to remove the cable.

    Robert

    Where it is marked in Yellow here, you want "Offline Account" and
    no email addresses to be entered.

    https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/220237d1547055736-clean-install-windows-10-a-local-1.png

    Using the Yellow thing, you enter a local account of "Rob", your home directory
    will be Rob. In other words, that Yellow thing is the path to work
    as if it was Windows 7 when defining an account.

    If you use the email address method, it fouls up your home directory name.

    I generally turn off all the rest of the "features" when I go through
    those screens.

    The first account you create there, is an Administrator account, so pick a login name you like for Administrator operation. Again, you can create a non-Administrator account later, after all those "stupid questions" are completed.

    Paul


    Understood,..... but in your instructions... 25 the last instruction
    does want me to enter an email account which you said to avoid but
    that's where I create the Admin Account correct?

    I'll pick a similar name as my other Admin Accounts.

    Robert



    _



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Jan 26 03:57:22 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/25/2024 2:11 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
    I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
    will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e

    Robert

    That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
    You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
    power connector to the card connector.

        Paul



    1. I was reading through the instructions for a clean
        install of Windows 10. I assume I have all the
        requirements.

    2. Create a bootable Win10 USB? I believe we did that and put the ISO on a >>     ScanDisk with the USB Adaptor.

     3. disconnect all other hd's

    I have my 8500 product key is that the same thing?

    Your instructions are easier to follow.

    ... on step 25 you start with a bogus phone number but it ends with having to enter an email address. OIC that's where I create a Admin Account. I think I'm getting a handle on it but as I say we need to finish the 780 first then we can turn to the
    8500.

    I think when the cables arrive I'm going to remove the PCI card and do the cabling
    outside of the computer because its pretty restricted space inside the computer and
    difficult to remove the cable.

    Robert

    Where it is marked in Yellow here, you want "Offline Account" and
    no email addresses to be entered.

    https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/220237d1547055736-clean-install-windows-10-a-local-1.png

    Using the Yellow thing, you enter a local account of "Rob", your home directory
    will be Rob. In other words, that Yellow thing is the path to work
    as if it was Windows 7 when defining an account.

    If you use the email address method, it fouls up your home directory name.

    I generally turn off all the rest of the "features" when I go through
    those screens.

    The first account you create there, is an Administrator account, so pick a login name you like for Administrator operation. Again, you can create a non-Administrator account later, after all those "stupid questions" are completed.

    Paul



    Let's just skip over making an mrimg for the 8500 Win10
    since I can't access it anyway. There's nothing on it so
    we can go straight to erasing it and the 22H2.

    Robert


    _




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Jan 26 17:28:57 2024
    On 1/26/2024 6:08 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Understood,..... but in your instructions... 25 the last instruction does want me
    to enter an email account which you said to avoid but that's where I create the Admin Account correct?

    I'll pick a similar name as my other Admin Accounts.

    Robert

    When you select Offline Account, you will in essence specify

    Rob username
    12345678 password
    12345678 enter twice to verify the value you want

    That's what an offline account should ask for.

    The interface will display graphics, pretending that
    "all the cool kinds use an MSA, why not you ?"

    And of course, you are marketing-resistant and will
    do whatever you want to do :-)

    The thing is, I don't want my home directory to contain any
    part of my email address, as the chosen letters. That's a privacy
    leak. As it is, a lot of images I prepare, I have to erase out
    the privacy leaks before uploading. It's an unnecessary pain in the ass.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Jan 26 17:22:44 2024
    On 1/26/2024 6:57 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/25/2024 2:11 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
    I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
    will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e

    Robert

    That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
    You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
    power connector to the card connector.

         Paul



    1. I was reading through the instructions for a clean
         install of Windows 10. I assume I have all the
         requirements.

    2. Create a bootable Win10 USB? I believe we did that and put the ISO on a >>>      ScanDisk with the USB Adaptor.

      3. disconnect all other hd's

    I have my 8500 product key is that the same thing?

    Your instructions are easier to follow.

    ... on step 25 you start with a bogus phone number but it ends with having to enter an email address. OIC that's where I create a Admin Account. I think I'm getting a handle on it but as I say we need to finish the 780 first then we can turn to the
    8500.

    I think when the cables arrive I'm going to remove the PCI card and do the cabling
    outside of the computer because its pretty restricted space inside the computer and
    difficult to remove the cable.

    Robert

    Where it is marked in Yellow here, you want "Offline Account" and
    no email addresses to be entered.

        https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/220237d1547055736-clean-install-windows-10-a-local-1.png

    Using the Yellow thing, you enter a local account of "Rob", your home directory
    will be Rob. In other words, that Yellow thing is the path to work
    as if it was Windows 7 when defining an account.

    If you use the email address method, it fouls up your home directory name. >>
    I generally turn off all the rest of the "features" when I go through
    those screens.

    The first account you create there, is an Administrator account, so pick a >> login name you like for Administrator operation. Again, you can create a
    non-Administrator account later, after all those "stupid questions" are completed.

        Paul



    Let's just skip over making an mrimg for the 8500 Win10
    since I can't access it anyway. There's nothing on it so
    we can go straight to erasing it and the 22H2.

    Robert

    You can randomly access the content. Macrium mounter has a
    "remove restrictions" capability on an MRIMG, so any folder you
    want can be opened for inspection.

    You might also end up putting the MRIMG back at a later date.
    Depending on how the clean install goes.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Jan 26 15:38:28 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/26/2024 6:57 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/25/2024 2:11 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/24/2024 8:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I bought the Startech molex cables off of eBay,...
    I'm having trouble finding the Y connection though......
    will this Y connection work? It has double set of wires though,..

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/175010156703?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e

    Robert

    That looks like a Y cable. The seller claims 8" of wire.
    You can figure out how many you need to reach from available
    power connector to the card connector.

         Paul



    1. I was reading through the instructions for a clean
         install of Windows 10. I assume I have all the
         requirements.

    2. Create a bootable Win10 USB? I believe we did that and put the ISO on a >>>>      ScanDisk with the USB Adaptor.

      3. disconnect all other hd's

    I have my 8500 product key is that the same thing?

    Your instructions are easier to follow.

    ... on step 25 you start with a bogus phone number but it ends with having to enter an email address. OIC that's where I create a Admin Account. I think I'm getting a handle on it but as I say we need to finish the 780 first then we can turn to the
    8500.

    I think when the cables arrive I'm going to remove the PCI card and do the cabling
    outside of the computer because its pretty restricted space inside the computer and
    difficult to remove the cable.

    Robert

    Where it is marked in Yellow here, you want "Offline Account" and
    no email addresses to be entered.

        https://www.tenforums.com/attachments/tutorials/220237d1547055736-clean-install-windows-10-a-local-1.png

    Using the Yellow thing, you enter a local account of "Rob", your home directory
    will be Rob. In other words, that Yellow thing is the path to work
    as if it was Windows 7 when defining an account.

    If you use the email address method, it fouls up your home directory name. >>>
    I generally turn off all the rest of the "features" when I go through
    those screens.

    The first account you create there, is an Administrator account, so pick a >>> login name you like for Administrator operation. Again, you can create a >>> non-Administrator account later, after all those "stupid questions" are completed.

        Paul



    Let's just skip over making an mrimg for the 8500 Win10
    since I can't access it anyway. There's nothing on it so
    we can go straight to erasing it and the 22H2.

    Robert

    You can randomly access the content. Macrium mounter has a
    "remove restrictions" capability on an MRIMG, so any folder you
    want can be opened for inspection.

    You might also end up putting the MRIMG back at a later date.
    Depending on how the clean install goes.

    Paul



    Understood,.... I will be clicking the lower left vs
    giving them my email address that avoids me using
    MSA.

    OK, we'll do a mrimg on the 8500 and will re-read your
    instructions so I have better idea of procedures.

    Robert



    _


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Jan 27 12:06:18 2024
    On 1/26/2024 6:38 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Understood,.... I will be clicking the lower left vs
    giving them my email address that avoids me using
    MSA.

    OK, we'll do a mrimg on the 8500 and will re-read your
    instructions so I have better idea of procedures.

    Robert

    Unlike some of your other computing projects, doing
    a clean install is a light hearted operation. If it
    does not work the first time, you can always do it
    again if you want. Just having the one blank drive
    connected, is all you need for the install.

    I didn't get it right on the first try, and with
    practice, you'll know what the questions are, and
    get used to the deceptive practice in the interface.

    For example, I never tried Cortana, because I don't
    leave a microphone connected to a computer. It's only
    for Zoom conferences with a doctor. The doctor at the
    hospital is fond of sitting in front of a large
    Mac computer and discussing medicine. But on at least
    one occasion, the conferencing software would not work
    and we had to use... a telephone. Yikes. A telephone.

    There's nothing wrong with using an MSA. What we're doing
    is changing the order. Doing a local account first,
    so there will be C:\users\Rob kind of thing, and the
    home directory will have the proper name. An MSA can be
    added later on, for usage with the Microsoft Store.
    Or for usage of OneDrive.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Jan 27 11:38:25 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/26/2024 6:38 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Understood,.... I will be clicking the lower left vs
    giving them my email address that avoids me using
    MSA.

    OK, we'll do a mrimg on the 8500 and will re-read your
    instructions so I have better idea of procedures.

    Robert

    Unlike some of your other computing projects, doing
    a clean install is a light hearted operation. If it
    does not work the first time, you can always do it
    again if you want. Just having the one blank drive
    connected, is all you need for the install.

    I didn't get it right on the first try, and with
    practice, you'll know what the questions are, and
    get used to the deceptive practice in the interface.

    For example, I never tried Cortana, because I don't
    leave a microphone connected to a computer. It's only
    for Zoom conferences with a doctor. The doctor at the
    hospital is fond of sitting in front of a large
    Mac computer and discussing medicine. But on at least
    one occasion, the conferencing software would not work
    and we had to use... a telephone. Yikes. A telephone.

    There's nothing wrong with using an MSA. What we're doing
    is changing the order. Doing a local account first,
    so there will be C:\users\Rob kind of thing, and the
    home directory will have the proper name. An MSA can be
    added later on, for usage with the Microsoft Store.
    Or for usage of OneDrive.

    Paul








    I re-read the instructions for installing Win10 on the 8500
    It says before installing to disable secure boot and fast boot?

    Step 1. create bootable ISO - done

    Step 3 - I'm not understanding what I do here?

    Step 4 - disconnect Internet before install

    Step 5 - boot from flash drive? I thought we were using 22H2 ?

    Step 9 - enter Win10 product key- 8500 Product Key ?

    Step 14. Legacy BIOS

    Step 16 install Win10

    Step 21 check for Internet (when did we re-connect it after Step 4?)

    Step 23> go to Step25

    Step 25 bogus telephone number, click offline account lower left

    a. privacy settings? I generally turn them all off except inking and typing.

    Step 29 set time/date

    Step 30 install FF, Seamonkey,Word, Excel, Dell Imagining, Set FF
    as default and turn off notifications, import bookmarks, copy/past My Documents. A/V suite, macrium....

    Step 31 create mrimg



    Robert

    _




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Jan 27 23:02:23 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/26/2024 6:38 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Understood,.... I will be clicking the lower left vs
    giving them my email address that avoids me using
    MSA.

    OK, we'll do a mrimg on the 8500 and will re-read your
    instructions so I have better idea of procedures.

    Robert

    Unlike some of your other computing projects, doing
    a clean install is a light hearted operation. If it
    does not work the first time, you can always do it
    again if you want. Just having the one blank drive
    connected, is all you need for the install.

    I didn't get it right on the first try, and with
    practice, you'll know what the questions are, and
    get used to the deceptive practice in the interface.

    For example, I never tried Cortana, because I don't
    leave a microphone connected to a computer. It's only
    for Zoom conferences with a doctor. The doctor at the
    hospital is fond of sitting in front of a large
    Mac computer and discussing medicine. But on at least
    one occasion, the conferencing software would not work
    and we had to use... a telephone. Yikes. A telephone.

    There's nothing wrong with using an MSA. What we're doing
    is changing the order. Doing a local account first,
    so there will be C:\users\Rob kind of thing, and the
    home directory will have the proper name. An MSA can be
    added later on, for usage with the Microsoft Store.
    Or for usage of OneDrive.

    Paul





    The Patriot sticks came and I copy/pasted My Documents
    from the 8500 to the 780 Win10. Next, I'll copy over the
    780Win7Pro My Documents to bring it up to date when I
    switch hd's and then do the 8500 when the time is ready.

    I'm thinking I may have to do this once a year to keep them
    up to date.

    Now we just have to wait for the cables. Once they arrive I'll
    remove the PCI card and do the cabling outside the computer.
    I was looking at it and actually I might be able to get away with
    just the Y connection and the cable that came with the PCI card
    that has the SATA connection on the end. If not, I'll use one of
    the Startech cables in between. I already have it planned where
    I'll run the cable and attach it to the optical cable.

    Then we'll be ready to do an mrimg.

    After that, I'll do a mrimg on the 8500 and then we can erase it
    and start on installing Win10.

    First, I have to do my monthly mrimgs though.....

    Robert





    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Jan 28 10:38:54 2024
    On 1/27/2024 2:38 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/26/2024 6:38 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Understood,.... I will be clicking the lower left vs
    giving them my email address that avoids me using
    MSA.

    OK, we'll do a mrimg on the 8500 and will re-read your
    instructions so I have better idea of procedures.

    Robert

    Unlike some of your other computing projects, doing
    a clean install is a light hearted operation. If it
    does not work the first time, you can always do it
    again if you want. Just having the one blank drive
    connected, is all you need for the install.

    I didn't get it right on the first try, and with
    practice, you'll know what the questions are, and
    get used to the deceptive practice in the interface.

    For example, I never tried Cortana, because I don't
    leave a microphone connected to a computer. It's only
    for Zoom conferences with a doctor. The doctor at the
    hospital is fond of sitting in front of a large
    Mac computer and discussing medicine. But on at least
    one occasion, the conferencing software would not work
    and we had to use... a telephone. Yikes. A telephone.

    There's nothing wrong with using an MSA. What we're doing
    is changing the order. Doing a local account first,
    so there will be C:\users\Rob kind of thing, and the
    home directory will have the proper name. An MSA can be
    added later on, for usage with the Microsoft Store.
    Or for usage of OneDrive.

        Paul








    I re-read the instructions for installing Win10 on the 8500
    It says before installing to disable secure boot and fast boot?

    Step 1. create bootable ISO - done

    Step 3 - I'm not understanding what I do here?

    Step 4 - disconnect Internet before install

    Step 5 - boot from flash drive? I thought we were using 22H2 ?

    Step 9 - enter Win10 product key-  8500 Product Key ?

    Step 14. Legacy BIOS

    Step 16 install Win10

    Step 21 check for Internet (when did we re-connect it after Step 4?)

    Step 23> go to Step25

    Step 25 bogus telephone number, click offline account lower left

    a. privacy settings? I generally turn them all off except inking and typing.

    Step 29 set time/date

    Step 30 install FF, Seamonkey,Word, Excel, Dell Imagining, Set FF
    as default and turn off notifications, import bookmarks, copy/past My Documents. A/V suite, macrium....

    Step 31 create mrimg

    http://www.macbreaker.com/2013/06/xps-8500-best-prebuilt-hackintosh.html

    "The motherboard of the XPS 8500 uses UEFI.
    ... enter the BIOS of your XPS 8500 and turn off "UEFI mode" and "Secure boot"
    "

    I would just leave the machine in the mode it is currently in.
    That's so the Windows 7 disk drive continues to boot. The popup boot
    only seems to support one mode at a time, making it... less than useful.

    https://blog.plip.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/23/2020/08/dell.boot_.ptompt.jpg

    Even without logging into the Win10 current OS, you can use
    a Macrium Rescue CD, to see how the disk is set up right now.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif

    You DONT have to enter a license key. Where it says license key,
    you use "Skip" if you want. Remember, since you acquired the "Free Upgrade", your license key is stored on the Microsoft Server, and that key will
    be populated from the server at the appropriate time later.

    I can't really design a film strip for this, because I'm not
    convinced I could cover every eventuality.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jan 28 12:35:19 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/27/2024 2:38 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/26/2024 6:38 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Understood,.... I will be clicking the lower left vs
    giving them my email address that avoids me using
    MSA.

    OK, we'll do a mrimg on the 8500 and will re-read your
    instructions so I have better idea of procedures.

    Robert

    Unlike some of your other computing projects, doing
    a clean install is a light hearted operation. If it
    does not work the first time, you can always do it
    again if you want. Just having the one blank drive
    connected, is all you need for the install.

    I didn't get it right on the first try, and with
    practice, you'll know what the questions are, and
    get used to the deceptive practice in the interface.

    For example, I never tried Cortana, because I don't
    leave a microphone connected to a computer. It's only
    for Zoom conferences with a doctor. The doctor at the
    hospital is fond of sitting in front of a large
    Mac computer and discussing medicine. But on at least
    one occasion, the conferencing software would not work
    and we had to use... a telephone. Yikes. A telephone.

    There's nothing wrong with using an MSA. What we're doing
    is changing the order. Doing a local account first,
    so there will be C:\users\Rob kind of thing, and the
    home directory will have the proper name. An MSA can be
    added later on, for usage with the Microsoft Store.
    Or for usage of OneDrive.

        Paul








    I re-read the instructions for installing Win10 on the 8500
    It says before installing to disable secure boot and fast boot?

    Step 1. create bootable ISO - done

    Step 3 - I'm not understanding what I do here?

    Step 4 - disconnect Internet before install

    Step 5 - boot from flash drive? I thought we were using 22H2 ?

    Step 9 - enter Win10 product key-  8500 Product Key ?

    Step 14. Legacy BIOS

    Step 16 install Win10

    Step 21 check for Internet (when did we re-connect it after Step 4?)

    Step 23> go to Step25

    Step 25 bogus telephone number, click offline account lower left

    a. privacy settings? I generally turn them all off except inking and typing. >>
    Step 29 set time/date

    Step 30 install FF, Seamonkey,Word, Excel, Dell Imagining, Set FF
    as default and turn off notifications, import bookmarks, copy/past My
    Documents. A/V suite, macrium....

    Step 31 create mrimg

    http://www.macbreaker.com/2013/06/xps-8500-best-prebuilt-hackintosh.html

    "The motherboard of the XPS 8500 uses UEFI.
    ... enter the BIOS of your XPS 8500 and turn off "UEFI mode" and "Secure boot"
    "

    I would just leave the machine in the mode it is currently in.
    That's so the Windows 7 disk drive continues to boot. The popup boot
    only seems to support one mode at a time, making it... less than useful.

    https://blog.plip.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/23/2020/08/dell.boot_.ptompt.jpg

    Even without logging into the Win10 current OS, you can use
    a Macrium Rescue CD, to see how the disk is set up right now.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif

    You DONT have to enter a license key. Where it says license key,
    you use "Skip" if you want. Remember, since you acquired the "Free Upgrade", your license key is stored on the Microsoft Server, and that key will
    be populated from the server at the appropriate time later.

    I can't really design a film strip for this, because I'm not
    convinced I could cover every eventuality.

    Paul






    I ran the Macrium Rescue CD with the 8500 Win10 hd:

    https://postimg.cc/Q9GyYcSR

    https://postimg.cc/jnRktKpc

    https://postimg.cc/9zBn1R9n

    https://postimg.cc/cKYD3rZT

    https://postimg.cc/qhxjmSN3


    Robert



    _




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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Jan 28 20:19:25 2024
    On 1/28/2024 3:35 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif

    I ran the Macrium Rescue CD with the 8500 Win10 hd:

    https://postimg.cc/Q9GyYcSR

    https://postimg.cc/jnRktKpc

    https://postimg.cc/9zBn1R9n

    https://postimg.cc/cKYD3rZT

    https://postimg.cc/qhxjmSN3


    Robert

    Using the main window and selecting "Backup" mode on the upper left,
    should give you a view of the partitions.

    [Picture] Click to magnify and the image may be clearer (Backup button down below File menu)

    https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif

    Your drive letters look kinda like a backup hard drive. It seems to have a 14GB Recovery
    partition (which is likely intended to reinstall Windows 7 or something).
    And the C: partition seems to take up the rest of the drive.

    From Macrium Rescue CD, using the File Explorer icon on the lower left,
    you should be able to look inside C: and see what is taking up the space there. It might be some backup image or something.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jan 28 21:29:53 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/28/2024 3:35 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif

    I ran the Macrium Rescue CD with the 8500 Win10 hd:

    https://postimg.cc/Q9GyYcSR

    https://postimg.cc/jnRktKpc

    https://postimg.cc/9zBn1R9n

    https://postimg.cc/cKYD3rZT

    https://postimg.cc/qhxjmSN3


    Robert

    Using the main window and selecting "Backup" mode on the upper left,
    should give you a view of the partitions.

    [Picture] Click to magnify and the image may be clearer (Backup button down below File menu)

    https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif

    Your drive letters look kinda like a backup hard drive. It seems to have a 14GB Recovery
    partition (which is likely intended to reinstall Windows 7 or something).
    And the C: partition seems to take up the rest of the drive.

    From Macrium Rescue CD, using the File Explorer icon on the lower left,
    you should be able to look inside C: and see what is taking up the space there.
    It might be some backup image or something.

    Paul


    Is this better?

    https://postimg.cc/QVxqgKYM

    Robert


    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Mon Jan 29 04:02:32 2024
    On 1/29/2024 12:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/28/2024 3:35 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif

    I ran the Macrium Rescue CD with the 8500 Win10 hd:

    https://postimg.cc/Q9GyYcSR

    https://postimg.cc/jnRktKpc

    https://postimg.cc/9zBn1R9n

    https://postimg.cc/cKYD3rZT

    https://postimg.cc/qhxjmSN3


    Robert

    Using the main window and selecting "Backup" mode on the upper left,
    should give you a view of the partitions.

         [Picture]  Click to magnify and the image may be clearer (Backup button down below File menu)

         https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif >>
    Your drive letters look kinda like a backup hard drive. It seems to have a 14GB Recovery
    partition (which is likely intended to reinstall Windows 7 or something).
    And the C: partition seems to take up the rest of the drive.

     From Macrium Rescue CD, using the File Explorer icon on the lower left,
    you should be able to look inside C: and see what is taking up the space there.
    It might be some backup image or something.

        Paul


    Is this better?

    https://postimg.cc/QVxqgKYM

    Robert

    That's excellent. Thanks.

    Your disk is a puzzle. It is similar to #1 here. An XPS 8700 has done the same thing.

    https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/651926/understanding-windows-10-partition-structures/

    "#1 has a 1 TB disk with 3 partitions:

    1 Dell Utility FAT (16 bit) 116 KB used out of 39.2 MB
    2 Recovery NTFS 11.26 GB used out of 24.22 GB
    3 OS (C:) NTFS 308.02 GB used out of 907.25 GB

    Am I to understand from this that #1 has an MBR disk system, while the other two have GPT disks...
    "

    I would agree it's MBR. The reason I searched for a reference, is the Recovery is marked
    in your picture as "NTFS Active", and that terminology should only be used on MBR disks.

    And that's good, because it's easier to go from an MBR disk to GPT, than from GPT to MBR.
    That means there is slightly less that can go wrong.

    *******

    Before you go erasing anything, I'd want to check C: for personal files.
    It's about 1/4 full and it might have some backup file stored on there somewhere.

    And you know your folder habits, in terms of where you store backups.
    So you're best suited to hunt for that detail.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 29 10:06:27 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/29/2024 12:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/28/2024 3:35 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif

    I ran the Macrium Rescue CD with the 8500 Win10 hd:

    https://postimg.cc/Q9GyYcSR

    https://postimg.cc/jnRktKpc

    https://postimg.cc/9zBn1R9n

    https://postimg.cc/cKYD3rZT

    https://postimg.cc/qhxjmSN3


    Robert

    Using the main window and selecting "Backup" mode on the upper left,
    should give you a view of the partitions.

         [Picture]  Click to magnify and the image may be clearer (Backup button down below File menu)

         https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif >>>
    Your drive letters look kinda like a backup hard drive. It seems to have a 14GB Recovery
    partition (which is likely intended to reinstall Windows 7 or something). >>> And the C: partition seems to take up the rest of the drive.

     From Macrium Rescue CD, using the File Explorer icon on the lower left, >>> you should be able to look inside C: and see what is taking up the space there.
    It might be some backup image or something.

        Paul


    Is this better?

    https://postimg.cc/QVxqgKYM

    Robert

    That's excellent. Thanks.

    Your disk is a puzzle. It is similar to #1 here. An XPS 8700 has done the same thing.

    https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/651926/understanding-windows-10-partition-structures/

    "#1 has a 1 TB disk with 3 partitions:

    1 Dell Utility FAT (16 bit) 116 KB used out of 39.2 MB
    2 Recovery NTFS 11.26 GB used out of 24.22 GB
    3 OS (C:) NTFS 308.02 GB used out of 907.25 GB

    Am I to understand from this that #1 has an MBR disk system, while the other two have GPT disks...
    "

    I would agree it's MBR. The reason I searched for a reference, is the Recovery is marked
    in your picture as "NTFS Active", and that terminology should only be used on MBR disks.

    And that's good, because it's easier to go from an MBR disk to GPT, than from GPT to MBR.
    That means there is slightly less that can go wrong.

    *******

    Before you go erasing anything, I'd want to check C: for personal files.
    It's about 1/4 full and it might have some backup file stored on there somewhere.

    And you know your folder habits, in terms of where you store backups.
    So you're best suited to hunt for that detail.

    Paul







    I’m on the 780 just to test Seamonkey etc,..

    As I thought, it has nothing of mine. It’s all the
    Rogue User’s. Apparently when I upgraded with
    the free offer it completely overwrote my hd
    and replaced it with one with pin numbers.

    https://postimg.cc/jLwBQq7T

    https://postimg.cc/py9s3GXY

    https://postimg.cc/Ff3LjS9S

    https://postimg.cc/LqDHK4D7

    Robert



    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 29 11:16:41 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/29/2024 12:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/28/2024 3:35 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif

    I ran the Macrium Rescue CD with the 8500 Win10 hd:

    https://postimg.cc/Q9GyYcSR

    https://postimg.cc/jnRktKpc

    https://postimg.cc/9zBn1R9n

    https://postimg.cc/cKYD3rZT

    https://postimg.cc/qhxjmSN3


    Robert

    Using the main window and selecting "Backup" mode on the upper left,
    should give you a view of the partitions.

         [Picture]  Click to magnify and the image may be clearer (Backup button down below File menu)

         https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif >>>
    Your drive letters look kinda like a backup hard drive. It seems to have a 14GB Recovery
    partition (which is likely intended to reinstall Windows 7 or something). >>> And the C: partition seems to take up the rest of the drive.

     From Macrium Rescue CD, using the File Explorer icon on the lower left, >>> you should be able to look inside C: and see what is taking up the space there.
    It might be some backup image or something.

        Paul


    Is this better?

    https://postimg.cc/QVxqgKYM

    Robert

    That's excellent. Thanks.

    Your disk is a puzzle. It is similar to #1 here. An XPS 8700 has done the same thing.

    https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/651926/understanding-windows-10-partition-structures/

    "#1 has a 1 TB disk with 3 partitions:

    1 Dell Utility FAT (16 bit) 116 KB used out of 39.2 MB
    2 Recovery NTFS 11.26 GB used out of 24.22 GB
    3 OS (C:) NTFS 308.02 GB used out of 907.25 GB

    Am I to understand from this that #1 has an MBR disk system, while the other two have GPT disks...
    "

    I would agree it's MBR. The reason I searched for a reference, is the Recovery is marked
    in your picture as "NTFS Active", and that terminology should only be used on MBR disks.

    And that's good, because it's easier to go from an MBR disk to GPT, than from GPT to MBR.
    That means there is slightly less that can go wrong.

    *******

    Before you go erasing anything, I'd want to check C: for personal files.
    It's about 1/4 full and it might have some backup file stored on there somewhere.

    And you know your folder habits, in terms of where you store backups.
    So you're best suited to hunt for that detail.

    Paul





    The Y cable came in the mail so I pulled the PCI card from the 780
    and connected it and connected the SATA cable to the optical drive.
    All I need now is the Startech molex cable to connect both ends.

    Robert


    _




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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 29 12:44:16 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/29/2024 12:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/28/2024 3:35 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif

    I ran the Macrium Rescue CD with the 8500 Win10 hd:

    https://postimg.cc/Q9GyYcSR

    https://postimg.cc/jnRktKpc

    https://postimg.cc/9zBn1R9n

    https://postimg.cc/cKYD3rZT

    https://postimg.cc/qhxjmSN3


    Robert

    Using the main window and selecting "Backup" mode on the upper left,
    should give you a view of the partitions.

         [Picture]  Click to magnify and the image may be clearer (Backup button down below File menu)

         https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif >>>
    Your drive letters look kinda like a backup hard drive. It seems to have a 14GB Recovery
    partition (which is likely intended to reinstall Windows 7 or something). >>> And the C: partition seems to take up the rest of the drive.

     From Macrium Rescue CD, using the File Explorer icon on the lower left, >>> you should be able to look inside C: and see what is taking up the space there.
    It might be some backup image or something.

        Paul


    Is this better?

    https://postimg.cc/QVxqgKYM

    Robert

    That's excellent. Thanks.

    Your disk is a puzzle. It is similar to #1 here. An XPS 8700 has done the same thing.

    https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/651926/understanding-windows-10-partition-structures/

    "#1 has a 1 TB disk with 3 partitions:

    1 Dell Utility FAT (16 bit) 116 KB used out of 39.2 MB
    2 Recovery NTFS 11.26 GB used out of 24.22 GB
    3 OS (C:) NTFS 308.02 GB used out of 907.25 GB

    Am I to understand from this that #1 has an MBR disk system, while the other two have GPT disks...
    "

    I would agree it's MBR. The reason I searched for a reference, is the Recovery is marked
    in your picture as "NTFS Active", and that terminology should only be used on MBR disks.

    And that's good, because it's easier to go from an MBR disk to GPT, than from GPT to MBR.
    That means there is slightly less that can go wrong.

    *******

    Before you go erasing anything, I'd want to check C: for personal files.
    It's about 1/4 full and it might have some backup file stored on there somewhere.

    And you know your folder habits, in terms of where you store backups.
    So you're best suited to hunt for that detail.

    Paul





    One thing, I noticed when I attached the SATA cable that
    one of the black wires came loose on the other connection
    end. Probably from all the connecting and disconnecting to
    the PCI card. I was able to push the pin back in but do you
    think I should epoxy it in? I'm afraid when I try to connect
    the Startech cable that that pin will move backwards and not
    connect.

    Robert



    _




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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 29 17:16:01 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/29/2024 12:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/28/2024 3:35 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif

    I ran the Macrium Rescue CD with the 8500 Win10 hd:

    https://postimg.cc/Q9GyYcSR

    https://postimg.cc/jnRktKpc

    https://postimg.cc/9zBn1R9n

    https://postimg.cc/cKYD3rZT

    https://postimg.cc/qhxjmSN3


    Robert

    Using the main window and selecting "Backup" mode on the upper left,
    should give you a view of the partitions.

         [Picture]  Click to magnify and the image may be clearer (Backup button down below File menu)

         https://i.postimg.cc/xdYH61qn/using-Macrium-to-see-partitions.gif >>>
    Your drive letters look kinda like a backup hard drive. It seems to have a 14GB Recovery
    partition (which is likely intended to reinstall Windows 7 or something). >>> And the C: partition seems to take up the rest of the drive.

     From Macrium Rescue CD, using the File Explorer icon on the lower left, >>> you should be able to look inside C: and see what is taking up the space there.
    It might be some backup image or something.

        Paul


    Is this better?

    https://postimg.cc/QVxqgKYM

    Robert

    That's excellent. Thanks.

    Your disk is a puzzle. It is similar to #1 here. An XPS 8700 has done the same thing.

    https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/651926/understanding-windows-10-partition-structures/

    "#1 has a 1 TB disk with 3 partitions:

    1 Dell Utility FAT (16 bit) 116 KB used out of 39.2 MB
    2 Recovery NTFS 11.26 GB used out of 24.22 GB
    3 OS (C:) NTFS 308.02 GB used out of 907.25 GB

    Am I to understand from this that #1 has an MBR disk system, while the other two have GPT disks...
    "

    I would agree it's MBR. The reason I searched for a reference, is the Recovery is marked
    in your picture as "NTFS Active", and that terminology should only be used on MBR disks.

    And that's good, because it's easier to go from an MBR disk to GPT, than from GPT to MBR.
    That means there is slightly less that can go wrong.

    *******

    Before you go erasing anything, I'd want to check C: for personal files.
    It's about 1/4 full and it might have some backup file stored on there somewhere.

    And you know your folder habits, in terms of where you store backups.
    So you're best suited to hunt for that detail.

    Paul








    I connected the Y cable to the SATA cable and tested it
    so we have the 3.0 port working. However, when I try to
    eject the Patriot safely it doesn't give me a message its OK
    to remove and the USB icon disappears.

    https://postimg.cc/MvQytf16

    Robert


    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Jan 30 00:59:12 2024
    On 1/29/2024 3:44 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    One thing, I noticed when I attached the SATA cable that
    one of the black wires came loose on the other connection
    end. Probably from all the connecting and disconnecting to
    the PCI card. I was able to push the pin back in but do you
    think I should epoxy it in? I'm afraid when I try to connect
    the Startech cable that that pin will move backwards and not
    connect.

    Robert

    Usually there is a retention mechanism, like a metal tab
    that when the pin is seated, the tab flips out and prevents
    the pin from going backwards.

    When the pin is not seated, have a careful look at the pin
    and see if you can see the bit that is supposed to lock
    the pin in place.

    Normally the Molex hold up pretty well.

    I've had some VGA connectors, the pins in those go backwards.
    But it's been a long time since that has happened, and
    the newer stuff here no longer suffers from that problem.

    If a Molex handling a lot of current develops a poor electrical
    connection, it will heat up enough to burn the connector. I had
    a video card that ruined a Molex once. I soldered an "extension cable"
    into the holes where the connector used to go, so I could continue
    to use the card.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Jan 30 01:06:32 2024
    On 1/29/2024 8:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I connected the Y cable to the SATA cable and tested it
    so we have the 3.0 port working.  However, when I try to
    eject the Patriot safely it doesn't give me a message its OK
    to remove and the USB icon disappears.

    https://postimg.cc/MvQytf16

    Robert

    It's possible the Patriot is formatted ExFAT or it could
    even be formatted FAT32 (FAT32 works up to 2TB with the
    right formatter).

    The "Safely Remove" thing has been modified, and to work
    properly, formatting your new storage as NTFS, should give
    the normal Safely Remove behaviors.

    No, I don't like the changes they've made. They should have
    left that stuff alone. It was working fine.

    If you have a FAT32 stick now, you might as well just
    remove it when the LED stops flashing. It really requires
    the sticks have LEDs, so you have some idea the computer
    is not using it. And that's not a good way to run this
    stuff, making it LED dependent.

    Some USB flash sticks, if you buy two items off the rack
    at the store, one can have a LED and the other not have a LED,
    and it depends on which foreign factory the stick was made in.
    You would think the items on a single rack pin would be
    from the same factory, but I checked when I got home, and they
    were from different countries. The UPC code on the two products
    is the same, but one has a LED, the other does not have a LED.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 30 07:01:37 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/29/2024 8:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I connected the Y cable to the SATA cable and tested it
    so we have the 3.0 port working.  However, when I try to
    eject the Patriot safely it doesn't give me a message its OK
    to remove and the USB icon disappears.

    https://postimg.cc/MvQytf16

    Robert

    It's possible the Patriot is formatted ExFAT or it could
    even be formatted FAT32 (FAT32 works up to 2TB with the
    right formatter).

    The "Safely Remove" thing has been modified, and to work
    properly, formatting your new storage as NTFS, should give
    the normal Safely Remove behaviors.

    No, I don't like the changes they've made. They should have
    left that stuff alone. It was working fine.

    If you have a FAT32 stick now, you might as well just
    remove it when the LED stops flashing. It really requires
    the sticks have LEDs, so you have some idea the computer
    is not using it. And that's not a good way to run this
    stuff, making it LED dependent.

    Some USB flash sticks, if you buy two items off the rack
    at the store, one can have a LED and the other not have a LED,
    and it depends on which foreign factory the stick was made in.
    You would think the items on a single rack pin would be
    from the same factory, but I checked when I got home, and they
    were from different countries. The UPC code on the two products
    is the same, but one has a LED, the other does not have a LED.

    Paul



    I don't understand,. we didn't have this safely remove
    problem on the 780 Win 10? Why should the 8500 Win 10
    be different?


    Robert



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 30 06:52:50 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/29/2024 8:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I connected the Y cable to the SATA cable and tested it
    so we have the 3.0 port working.  However, when I try to
    eject the Patriot safely it doesn't give me a message its OK
    to remove and the USB icon disappears.

    https://postimg.cc/MvQytf16

    Robert

    It's possible the Patriot is formatted ExFAT or it could
    even be formatted FAT32 (FAT32 works up to 2TB with the
    right formatter).

    The "Safely Remove" thing has been modified, and to work
    properly, formatting your new storage as NTFS, should give
    the normal Safely Remove behaviors.

    No, I don't like the changes they've made. They should have
    left that stuff alone. It was working fine.

    If you have a FAT32 stick now, you might as well just
    remove it when the LED stops flashing. It really requires
    the sticks have LEDs, so you have some idea the computer
    is not using it. And that's not a good way to run this
    stuff, making it LED dependent.

    Some USB flash sticks, if you buy two items off the rack
    at the store, one can have a LED and the other not have a LED,
    and it depends on which foreign factory the stick was made in.
    You would think the items on a single rack pin would be
    from the same factory, but I checked when I got home, and they
    were from different countries. The UPC code on the two products
    is the same, but one has a LED, the other does not have a LED.

    Paul



    Well the pin must have clicked back in because I was able to
    connect the cables with no problem.

    All the sticks are Patriots,.... The 1TB have a momentary flash
    but not 16GB sticks and these are the same ones we've been using
    all along. In fact, the Patriot I used to test it is where I have
    all my bookmarks, and A/V suite etc. that I used on the 780.
    So it shouldn't of had any problems.

    I agree they shouldn't have modified it, they should of left it alone.
    So how do I change it for the safely remove to work as before?

    My back went out lifting the 8500 so I'll need a couple days
    off,....

    Robert


    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 30 19:56:19 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/29/2024 8:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I connected the Y cable to the SATA cable and tested it
    so we have the 3.0 port working.  However, when I try to
    eject the Patriot safely it doesn't give me a message its OK
    to remove and the USB icon disappears.

    https://postimg.cc/MvQytf16

    Robert

    It's possible the Patriot is formatted ExFAT or it could
    even be formatted FAT32 (FAT32 works up to 2TB with the
    right formatter).

    The "Safely Remove" thing has been modified, and to work
    properly, formatting your new storage as NTFS, should give
    the normal Safely Remove behaviors.

    No, I don't like the changes they've made. They should have
    left that stuff alone. It was working fine.

    If you have a FAT32 stick now, you might as well just
    remove it when the LED stops flashing. It really requires
    the sticks have LEDs, so you have some idea the computer
    is not using it. And that's not a good way to run this
    stuff, making it LED dependent.

    Some USB flash sticks, if you buy two items off the rack
    at the store, one can have a LED and the other not have a LED,
    and it depends on which foreign factory the stick was made in.
    You would think the items on a single rack pin would be
    from the same factory, but I checked when I got home, and they
    were from different countries. The UPC code on the two products
    is the same, but one has a LED, the other does not have a LED.

    Paul




    I feel better now but I just tried to use my phone and I
    get a busy signal no matter who I try and call even the
    operator!

    What's going on ? What do I do?

    Please help

    Robert


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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 30 20:29:24 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/29/2024 8:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I connected the Y cable to the SATA cable and tested it
    so we have the 3.0 port working.  However, when I try to
    eject the Patriot safely it doesn't give me a message its OK
    to remove and the USB icon disappears.

    https://postimg.cc/MvQytf16

    Robert

    It's possible the Patriot is formatted ExFAT or it could
    even be formatted FAT32 (FAT32 works up to 2TB with the
    right formatter).

    The "Safely Remove" thing has been modified, and to work
    properly, formatting your new storage as NTFS, should give
    the normal Safely Remove behaviors.

    No, I don't like the changes they've made. They should have
    left that stuff alone. It was working fine.

    If you have a FAT32 stick now, you might as well just
    remove it when the LED stops flashing. It really requires
    the sticks have LEDs, so you have some idea the computer
    is not using it. And that's not a good way to run this
    stuff, making it LED dependent.

    Some USB flash sticks, if you buy two items off the rack
    at the store, one can have a LED and the other not have a LED,
    and it depends on which foreign factory the stick was made in.
    You would think the items on a single rack pin would be
    from the same factory, but I checked when I got home, and they
    were from different countries. The UPC code on the two products
    is the same, but one has a LED, the other does not have a LED.

    Paul





    Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
    they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
    tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.


    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Jan 31 00:33:32 2024
    On 1/30/2024 11:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
    they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
    tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.


    Robert

    Is your phone tied to Internet (VOIP) or is it
    a cellphone ?

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 30 22:59:59 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/30/2024 11:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
    they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
    tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.


    Robert

    Is your phone tied to Internet (VOIP) or is it
    a cellphone ?

    Paul



    I have a old fashioned landline phone connected to a phone line
    I may the only one left who has one. *L* My sister had one
    with the rotary dial. The computer is connected via modem/Ethernet.

    I do have a cell phone but have only used it once. I would have
    to get a new monthly chip or whatever it is and number to use it.
    I barely know how to use the thing as is. I keep it for emergencies.


    Robert



    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 30 23:15:47 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/30/2024 11:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
    they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
    tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.


    Robert

    Is your phone tied to Internet (VOIP) or is it
    a cellphone ?

    Paul




    Were making progress, the 3.0 port works and all we need to do is make a
    mrimg for the 780 Win10 and we'll be finished. Then I'll switch the hd's
    and I'll copy/paste the latest version of My Documents over the old My Documents on Win7 to bring it up to date.

    Then we can turn to the 8500 Win10:

    We have a few things to do on the 8500 Win10 like fixing the safely
    remove. Changing the BIOS settings, erasing the hd, installing Win10
    etc. I have to re-read everything...


    Robert



    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 30 23:20:33 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/30/2024 11:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
    they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
    tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.


    Robert

    Is your phone tied to Internet (VOIP) or is it
    a cellphone ?

    Paul




    I think I may be a bit confused,... maybe it was the 780 that had the
    safely remove issue and not the 8500 because I didn't attach a Patriot
    to the 8500.

    I'll check it again later and make sure,..

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Jan 31 09:29:20 2024
    On 1/31/2024 2:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/30/2024 11:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
    they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
    tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.


    Robert

    Is your phone tied to Internet (VOIP) or is it
    a cellphone ?

        Paul




    I think I may be a bit confused,... maybe it was the 780 that had the safely remove issue and not the 8500 because I didn't attach a Patriot to the 8500.

    I'll check it again later and make sure,..

    Robert


    The policy on individual devices can be changed, but
    I think this has to do with whether caching is enabled or not.

    I did not really get the impression that caching was
    disabled. Even on the ones that don't have Safely Remove.

    On one of my USB sticks, the performance is very uneven. And again,
    I don't know if there is caching there or not. There should be,
    but I'll have to check. And fiddling with that, isn't going to
    make the stick work any better.

    Whatever they're doing, I'm confused too, because I don't plan on
    "checking anything" for my USB sticks :-) Not using the Windows dialogs at least.

    *******

    https://www.uwe-sieber.de/usbstick_e.html

    Update Feb 2011

    I was pointed to the fact that by means of the registry value WriteCacheEnableOverride
    a write cache can be forced for any USB drive, even FAT formatted removeable drives.
    And it indeed works! I have made a litte tool: USB-WriteCache

    https://www.uwe-sieber.de/drivetools_e.html#USB-WriteCache

    https://www.uwe-sieber.de/files/usb-writecache.zip <=== tick boxes for enabling write cache

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Jan 31 09:05:12 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/30/2024 11:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
    they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
    tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.


    Robert

    Is your phone tied to Internet (VOIP) or is it
    a cellphone ?

        Paul




    I think I may be a bit confused,... maybe it was the 780 that had the safely remove issue and not the 8500 because I didn't attach a Patriot to the 8500.

    I'll check it again later and make sure,..

    Robert


    The policy on individual devices can be changed, but
    I think this has to do with whether caching is enabled or not.

    I did not really get the impression that caching was
    disabled. Even on the ones that don't have Safely Remove.

    On one of my USB sticks, the performance is very uneven. And again,
    I don't know if there is caching there or not. There should be,
    but I'll have to check. And fiddling with that, isn't going to
    make the stick work any better.

    Whatever they're doing, I'm confused too, because I don't plan on
    "checking anything" for my USB sticks :-) Not using the Windows dialogs at least.

    *******

    https://www.uwe-sieber.de/usbstick_e.html

    Update Feb 2011

    I was pointed to the fact that by means of the registry value WriteCacheEnableOverride
    a write cache can be forced for any USB drive, even FAT formatted removeable drives.
    And it indeed works! I have made a litte tool: USB-WriteCache

    https://www.uwe-sieber.de/drivetools_e.html#USB-WriteCache

    https://www.uwe-sieber.de/files/usb-writecache.zip <=== tick boxes for enabling write cache

    Paul



    I downloaded your zip file and extracted it and tried to run it but
    Windows Defender stopped it. I’m having a hard time trying to get this
    to run and don’t even know what I’m doing.

    https://postimg.cc/F7VY75Jm

    Robert



    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Jan 31 11:06:56 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/30/2024 11:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
    they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
    tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.


    Robert

    Is your phone tied to Internet (VOIP) or is it
    a cellphone ?

        Paul




    I think I may be a bit confused,... maybe it was the 780 that had the safely remove issue and not the 8500 because I didn't attach a Patriot to the 8500.

    I'll check it again later and make sure,..

    Robert


    The policy on individual devices can be changed, but
    I think this has to do with whether caching is enabled or not.

    I did not really get the impression that caching was
    disabled. Even on the ones that don't have Safely Remove.

    On one of my USB sticks, the performance is very uneven. And again,
    I don't know if there is caching there or not. There should be,
    but I'll have to check. And fiddling with that, isn't going to
    make the stick work any better.

    Whatever they're doing, I'm confused too, because I don't plan on
    "checking anything" for my USB sticks :-) Not using the Windows dialogs at least.

    *******

    https://www.uwe-sieber.de/usbstick_e.html

    Update Feb 2011

    I was pointed to the fact that by means of the registry value WriteCacheEnableOverride
    a write cache can be forced for any USB drive, even FAT formatted removeable drives.
    And it indeed works! I have made a litte tool: USB-WriteCache

    https://www.uwe-sieber.de/drivetools_e.html#USB-WriteCache

    https://www.uwe-sieber.de/files/usb-writecache.zip <=== tick boxes for enabling write cache

    Paul




    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert



    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Jan 31 16:18:05 2024
    On 1/31/2024 12:05 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/30/2024 11:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Never mind, I contacted Frontier with the problem and
    they wrote a ticket on it and the guy will be out here
    tomorrow to hopefully resolve the issue.


    Robert

    Is your phone tied to Internet (VOIP) or is it
    a cellphone ?

         Paul




    I think I may be a bit confused,... maybe it was the 780 that had the safely remove issue and not the 8500 because I didn't attach a Patriot to the 8500.

    I'll check it again later and make sure,..

    Robert


    The policy on individual devices can be changed, but
    I think this has to do with whether caching is enabled or not.

    I did not really get the impression that caching was
    disabled. Even on the ones that don't have Safely Remove.

    On one of my USB sticks, the performance is very uneven. And again,
    I don't know if there is caching there or not. There should be,
    but I'll have to check. And fiddling with that, isn't going to
    make the stick work any better.

    Whatever they're doing, I'm confused too, because I don't plan on
    "checking anything" for my USB sticks :-) Not using the Windows dialogs at least.

    *******

    https://www.uwe-sieber.de/usbstick_e.html

        Update Feb 2011

        I was pointed to the fact that by means of the registry value WriteCacheEnableOverride
        a write cache can be forced for any USB drive, even FAT formatted removeable drives.
        And it indeed works! I have made a litte tool: USB-WriteCache

    https://www.uwe-sieber.de/drivetools_e.html#USB-WriteCache

        https://www.uwe-sieber.de/files/usb-writecache.zip    <=== tick boxes for enabling write cache

       Paul



    I downloaded your zip file and extracted it and tried to run it but Windows Defender stopped it.  I’m having a hard time trying to get this to run and don’t even know what I’m doing.

    https://postimg.cc/F7VY75Jm

    Robert

    Mine did not trigger Windows Defender, when I downloaded USB-WriteCache.zip . (It needs to be run as Administrator to make registry changes,
    but that does not help in any way with the results.)

    But neither did *any* set of radio buttons, do a damn thing!

    Absolutely nothing would cause my NTFS 64GB USB stick to have a Safely Remove entry!

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/cCg4q3Qv/Win10-No-Safely-Remove-NTFS.gif

    The results were just as bad on Windows 11, with slight unimportant differences.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Jan 31 16:31:35 2024
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.

    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it).

    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Feb 1 11:23:30 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.

    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it).

    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

    Paul




    Hmmmmmmmm so even if I did it as Administrator it still
    wouldn't have done anything. I'll just wait until I restart
    the computer and see the black screen or power off before I
    remove the Patriot from the USB connection.

    I wonder why they would remove the safely remove in Win10
    and 11 just like the homepage? I much prefer Win 7 Pro.

    I'm running mrimgs today so I had to switch the hd cable in the
    780 to Win7.

    I'm running scans at present but will copy/paste My Documents
    over the old My Documents on the Win 7 before the mrimg.

    We actually should be able to do a Win10 mrimg on the 780
    at this point so when I finish the Win7 I'll try and make one for
    Win10.

    Then I'll create a mrimg for the 8500.


    Robert




    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Feb 1 13:46:36 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.

    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it).

    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

    Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert



    _




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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Feb 2 00:24:10 2024
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.

    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it).

    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

        Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?

    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Feb 1 23:31:44 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.

    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

        Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?

    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.

    Paul



    Operator error,.... I back on running mrimgs,...

    I'll let you know if I have any problems.


    Thanks,
    Robert


    _




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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Feb 2 01:43:46 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.

    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

        Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?

    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.

    Paul



    I completed the 780 Win7 mrimg and then switched the
    cables and started the 780 Win10 mrimg. However, it just
    seems to be hanging. It says its Testing the write speed but
    it's been over 30 minutes now. Cancel and Pause are grayed
    out and the small green bar in current progress is just
    flashing and not moving.

    This doesn't look normal to me.

    https://postimg.cc/2qCZTYRb

    https://postimg.cc/fkV085FK

    I'm wondering if I should end it and try again?


    Robert


    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Feb 2 02:12:41 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.

    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

        Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?

    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.

    Paul



    I was going to shut it down and start over but I got this,..

    https://postimg.cc/gwYKj5sp

    How long is this going to take? Its already run 1 hour and
    the green bar hasn't moved at all.

    Since it won't let me shut it down the only other way is to
    power off the 780 manually. Or power off the modem but am afraid
    of damaging the external hd's if I do.

    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert



    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Feb 2 03:20:20 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.

    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

        Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?

    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.

    Paul


    This is where its at after 2 hours:

    https://postimg.cc/DWZyF90H


    Robert


    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Feb 2 08:38:23 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.

    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

        Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?

    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.

    Paul



    I completed the mrimgs on the 780 Win7
    and Windows 10 and now doing the 8500.

    The problem with the Win 10 mrimg was
    that I hadn't turned off the external
    hd after doing the Win 7 mrimg.

    It finally finished with an error and
    I was able to restart it and finish it
    after I turned the external off/on.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Feb 2 11:53:08 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.

    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

        Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?

    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.

    Paul


    The 8500 mrimg is hung up. This time I didn’t mess up
    with the external hd yet the 8500 mrimg is doing the same
    type of thing as the 780 mrimg when I forgot to turn off
    the external hd between mrimgs.

    https://postimg.cc/ct6NdPfD


    It’s been like this for hours and it won’t let me turn
    it off either.

    Robert


    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Feb 2 17:23:39 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.

    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

        Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?

    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.

    Paul




    The 8500 is still hung up and its been like this
    all day. When I try to shut down it says macrium
    is performing a task. All day?

    It still says 1 hour and 41 minutes left and hasn't
    budged.

    How do I get out of this?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Feb 2 20:42:41 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.

    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

        Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?

    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.

    Paul



    I finally had to powered off the modem, everything is OK,....

    The 780 Win7 doesn't have Solani so I tried to put it on but
    I could never get it to subscribe? I tried several times. I've
    done this before but for some reason it just wouldn't do it.
    Then I got this error.

    https://postimg.cc/3yKZjsCL

    https://postimg.cc/TL1qFnsg


    I'll try running the 8500 mrimg again and hopefully I won't
    have any problems.


    Robert


    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Feb 3 00:19:42 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator.

    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>
    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

        Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?

    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, maybe Notepad opens instead.

    Paul




    I restarted the 8500 mrimg and it finished successfully.
    I don't understand why it hung up like that. Once we fix
    the 780 Win7 Solani subscription then we can move to
    the 8500 Win 10 and erase the hd and install Win10.

    I still need to re-read the instructions so get everything
    clear.

    Robert


    _


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Feb 3 11:16:16 2024
    On 2/2/2024 5:12 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator. >>>>
    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>>
    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

         Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?

    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, >> maybe Notepad opens instead.

        Paul



    I was going to shut it down and start over but I got this,..

    https://postimg.cc/gwYKj5sp

    How long is this going to take? Its already run 1 hour and
    the green bar hasn't moved at all.

    Since it won't let me shut it down the only other way is to
    power off the 780 manually. Or power off the modem but am afraid
    of damaging the external hd's if I do.

    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert

    https://forum.macrium.com/74301/Very-slow-Test-disk-write-speed-to-USB

    "The disk write test only occurs once per target (at least as long as the
    target retains that drive letter). But it should only take tens of seconds,
    so I’m not sure what’s going on there. You can access the tester directly
    if you want by going to the Backup menu and selecting Disk Write Benchmarks."

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/d1jy0Nzf/Disk-Write-Performance.gif

    OK, so what it seems to be doing, is testing the output disk drive
    during a backup. Then it decides whether to use the System File Cache
    or to use Direct Disk I/O (uncached writes).

    In my picture, it's never tested the C: partition (Win11) or the H: partition (Win10).
    It has tested the S: partition, but it looks like it only tested
    that one, back when I was booting from a hard drive.

    Some of the letters in the table, I don't recollect using them, but I can
    tell from the speed, what was receiving the writes.

    *******

    What is the drive you are currently targeting for the backups ?

    Is it connected to the new USB3 card ?

    I hope it's not the Patriot stick (that is causing the symptoms).

    It could be some USB flash stick, that isn't the expected target
    for the output.

    In any case, notice that the dialog box has buttons for manually
    testing when a backup is not running.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Feb 3 11:23:15 2024
    On 2/2/2024 2:53 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator. >>>>
    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>>
    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

         Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?

    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, >> maybe Notepad opens instead.

        Paul


    The 8500 mrimg is hung up. This time I didn’t mess up
    with the external hd yet the 8500 mrimg is doing the same
    type of thing as the 780 mrimg when I forgot to turn off
    the external hd between mrimgs.

    https://postimg.cc/ct6NdPfD


    It’s been like this for hours and it won’t let me turn
    it off either.

    Robert

    At the top of your picture ( https://postimg.cc/ct6NdPfD ),
    it shows "WinPE 3.1", which would not have a USB3 driver,
    but it might have a USB2 driver. It would be OK for the media
    builder to add the USB3 driver, if there was one to use.

    I would guess that this is a driver issue, of some sort.

    Your CD should be at least 6.3.1865 version, to be able to
    back up the Windows 10 C: drive. Your CD is fine, because
    your CD is Macrium 7.x.x , so that is not a problem. If you use
    too old a version, it throws up an error dialog "Error 9",
    so you'd know it was a version issue then. That's the only
    other behavior I've seen.

    If the disc was built with WinPE 5 or WinPE 10, it *might*
    work better, no promises.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Feb 3 11:26:38 2024
    On 2/2/2024 8:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator. >>>>
    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>>
    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

         Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?

    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, >> maybe Notepad opens instead.

        Paul




    The 8500 is still hung up and its been like this
    all day. When I try to shut down it says macrium
    is performing a task. All day?

    It still says 1 hour and 41 minutes left and hasn't
    budged.

    How do I get out of this?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    Is there a Cancel button ?

    Yes, I see it in the picture.

    Use the Cancel button at the bottom of the dialog and
    all should be fine.

    You need to test using another one of your CDs which
    is a better mix of materials, one with a better driver.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Feb 3 11:42:41 2024
    On 2/2/2024 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator. >>>>
    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>>
    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif

    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

         Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ?

    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, >> maybe Notepad opens instead.

        Paul



    I finally had to powered off the modem, everything is OK,....

    The 780 Win7 doesn't have Solani so I tried to put it on but
    I could never get it to subscribe? I tried several times. I've
    done this before but for some reason it just wouldn't do it.
    Then I got this error.

    https://postimg.cc/3yKZjsCL

    https://postimg.cc/TL1qFnsg


    I'll try running the 8500 mrimg again and hopefully I won't
    have any problems.


    Robert

    PS C:> nslookup 65.108.165.7

    Name: reader6.news.weretis.net
    Address: 65.108.165.7

    PS C:> nslookup news.solani.org

    Non-authoritative answer:
    Name: news.solani.org
    Addresses: 2a01:4f8:c010:63b5::1
    2a01:4f8:1c17:f346::1
    157.90.249.56
    65.108.165.7

    The documentation for that server, said it was virtualized, and
    it is running as a VM on a Xeon machine of some sort.

    Yet, the nslookup suggests is is aliased to another piece of
    equipment.

    The IP address maps here. That's a Hetzner COLO in Finland.

    IP address: 65.108.165.7
    hostname: reader6.news.weretis.net
    ISP: Hetzner Online GmbH
    ASN: AS24940
    City: Helsinki
    Country: Finland (FI) flag
    Postal code: 00131
    latitude: 60.1797
    longitude: 24.9344

    I would treat this as some sort of configuration error on
    their end. Maybe they were in the middle of a server move
    or something. Perhaps they engineered a fallback behavior,
    when the VM wasn't working or had crashed.

    The documentation says "reader5" and "reader6" here, so that
    part is consistent with their intentions. But the reverse
    lookup above wasn't what I was expecting.

    https://www.solani.org/technical/

    Try again a day from now, give them time to fix it.

    the absolute worst administrators, only visit their server
    once a month :-) Which means a service outage can go a long
    time without a fix. You can imagine how much usage such a
    server gets.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Feb 3 09:41:23 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/2/2024 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator. >>>>>
    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>>>
    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif >>>>>
    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

         Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ? >>>
    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, >>> maybe Notepad opens instead.

        Paul



    I finally had to powered off the modem, everything is OK,....

    The 780 Win7 doesn't have Solani so I tried to put it on but
    I could never get it to subscribe? I tried several times. I've
    done this before but for some reason it just wouldn't do it.
    Then I got this error.

    https://postimg.cc/3yKZjsCL

    https://postimg.cc/TL1qFnsg


    I'll try running the 8500 mrimg again and hopefully I won't
    have any problems.


    Robert

    PS C:> nslookup 65.108.165.7

    Name: reader6.news.weretis.net
    Address: 65.108.165.7

    PS C:> nslookup news.solani.org

    Non-authoritative answer:
    Name: news.solani.org
    Addresses: 2a01:4f8:c010:63b5::1
    2a01:4f8:1c17:f346::1
    157.90.249.56
    65.108.165.7

    The documentation for that server, said it was virtualized, and
    it is running as a VM on a Xeon machine of some sort.

    Yet, the nslookup suggests is is aliased to another piece of
    equipment.

    The IP address maps here. That's a Hetzner COLO in Finland.

    IP address: 65.108.165.7
    hostname: reader6.news.weretis.net
    ISP: Hetzner Online GmbH
    ASN: AS24940
    City: Helsinki
    Country: Finland (FI) flag
    Postal code: 00131
    latitude: 60.1797
    longitude: 24.9344

    I would treat this as some sort of configuration error on
    their end. Maybe they were in the middle of a server move
    or something. Perhaps they engineered a fallback behavior,
    when the VM wasn't working or had crashed.

    The documentation says "reader5" and "reader6" here, so that
    part is consistent with their intentions. But the reverse
    lookup above wasn't what I was expecting.

    https://www.solani.org/technical/

    Try again a day from now, give them time to fix it.

    the absolute worst administrators, only visit their server
    once a month :-) Which means a service outage can go a long
    time without a fix. You can imagine how much usage such a
    server gets.

    Paul



    Yes, the test only takes 10 seconds because I watched it
    on the 8500 mrimg backup.

    The target for the backups is the 6TB external hd's.
    Yes, I used the new PCI card with3.0 ports. It's a bit
    cumbersome though having to plug it in the rear and
    on the bottom because it's on a board on the floor.

    I couldn't get any of the buttons to react when it was
    hung up. I tried hitting cancel and pause and I try
    clicking cancel and pause but there was no reaction.

    So you want me to use the newer macrium Rescue CD
    for the 8500 ? I made a V7.3.6391, 64 bit on 12-5-23
    so use that instead?

    Robert


    _



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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Feb 3 09:49:31 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/2/2024 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/1/2024 4:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 1/31/2024 2:06 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went ahead and ran it but it doesn't look anything like
    yours but I tried to click WriteCacheEnableOverride
    anyways.

    https://postimg.cc/VdfNkXJv

    https://postimg.cc/mPqZjq81

    I tried to safely remove the Patriot but again the USB
    icon disappeared and no message its safe to remove. btw,
    the 16GB also flashed momentarily just like the 1TB
    when connected.

    I'll just remove it when I power it down or restart it.


    Robert

    The Error 5 is because "usb-writecache.exe" needs Run As Administrator. >>>>>
    But it still does not help. The settings do not help.

    I tested both Win10 and Win11, and once they have made up
    their mind what they are doing, nothing changes their tiny minds.

    In this example, the stick is closer to emulating a USB hard drive
    (because the tool that made the stick, fitted multiple partitions to it). >>>>>
    And it merited a Safely Remove entry.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/htZXYVQq/Safely-Remove-Can-Work.gif >>>>>
    But devices with a single partition don't seem to be working.

    I knew I didn't want to wade into this area, because it's
    always full of pit traps :-)

         Paul



    I think I'm going to hold off on the mrimgs; what happened was
    I connected a Patriot to copy/paste My Documents,. it was the
    wrong Patriot but when I tried to open the Downloads Word
    document it opened up in Notebook instead of Word and was
    un-readable.

    This is what's on the Patriot:

    https://postimg.cc/k6qQ4xh6

    So how can I get the 780 Win7 to open Word instead of Notebook?


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Is MS Word or Office installed on the OS which is booted at that moment ? >>>
    Otherwise .doc maps to Wordpad perhaps, and since they've removed Wordpad, >>> maybe Notepad opens instead.

        Paul



    I finally had to powered off the modem, everything is OK,....

    The 780 Win7 doesn't have Solani so I tried to put it on but
    I could never get it to subscribe? I tried several times. I've
    done this before but for some reason it just wouldn't do it.
    Then I got this error.

    https://postimg.cc/3yKZjsCL

    https://postimg.cc/TL1qFnsg


    I'll try running the 8500 mrimg again and hopefully I won't
    have any problems.


    Robert

    PS C:> nslookup 65.108.165.7

    Name: reader6.news.weretis.net
    Address: 65.108.165.7

    PS C:> nslookup news.solani.org

    Non-authoritative answer:
    Name: news.solani.org
    Addresses: 2a01:4f8:c010:63b5::1
    2a01:4f8:1c17:f346::1
    157.90.249.56
    65.108.165.7

    The documentation for that server, said it was virtualized, and
    it is running as a VM on a Xeon machine of some sort.

    Yet, the nslookup suggests is is aliased to another piece of
    equipment.

    The IP address maps here. That's a Hetzner COLO in Finland.

    IP address: 65.108.165.7
    hostname: reader6.news.weretis.net
    ISP: Hetzner Online GmbH
    ASN: AS24940
    City: Helsinki
    Country: Finland (FI) flag
    Postal code: 00131
    latitude: 60.1797
    longitude: 24.9344

    I would treat this as some sort of configuration error on
    their end. Maybe they were in the middle of a server move
    or something. Perhaps they engineered a fallback behavior,
    when the VM wasn't working or had crashed.

    The documentation says "reader5" and "reader6" here, so that
    part is consistent with their intentions. But the reverse
    lookup above wasn't what I was expecting.

    https://www.solani.org/technical/

    Try again a day from now, give them time to fix it.

    the absolute worst administrators, only visit their server
    once a month :-) Which means a service outage can go a long
    time without a fix. You can imagine how much usage such a
    server gets.

    Paul


    That's weird its in Germany? I suppose they have
    connections world wide.

    I'll try later and see if it works,. its strange
    I also had the phone problem too although it didn't
    affect the computers.

    Thanks,.

    Robert


    _




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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Feb 4 02:09:50 2024
    On 2/3/2024 12:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Yes, the test only takes 10 seconds because I watched it
    on the 8500 mrimg backup.

    The target for the backups is the 6TB external hd's.
    Yes, I used the new PCI card with3.0 ports. It's a bit
    cumbersome though having to plug it in the rear and
    on the bottom because it's on a board on the floor.

    I couldn't get any of the buttons to react when it was
    hung up. I tried hitting cancel and pause and I try
    clicking cancel and pause but there was no reaction.

    So you want me to use the newer macrium Rescue CD
    for the 8500 ? I made a V7.3.6391, 64 bit on 12-5-23
    so use that instead?

    Robert

    You can test the 6TB manually, using that interface in the picture.
    You can do that from the running copy of Windows, just to verify
    the disk is OK.

    The CD images could use a different driver, and yes, trying
    another one of your CDs might be a quick way to check.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Feb 4 11:09:57 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/3/2024 12:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Yes, the test only takes 10 seconds because I watched it
    on the 8500 mrimg backup.

    The target for the backups is the 6TB external hd's.
    Yes, I used the new PCI card with3.0 ports. It's a bit
    cumbersome though having to plug it in the rear and
    on the bottom because it's on a board on the floor.

    I couldn't get any of the buttons to react when it was
    hung up. I tried hitting cancel and pause and I try
    clicking cancel and pause but there was no reaction.

    So you want me to use the newer macrium Rescue CD
    for the 8500 ? I made a V7.3.6391, 64 bit on 12-5-23
    so use that instead?

    Robert

    You can test the 6TB manually, using that interface in the picture.
    You can do that from the running copy of Windows, just to verify
    the disk is OK.

    The CD images could use a different driver, and yes, trying
    another one of your CDs might be a quick way to check.

    Paul



    I browsed the 8500 mrimg to make sure it was OK


    https://postimg.cc/N9t39sPF

    https://postimg.cc/1nWvmskL

    https://postimg.cc/cvqX4Dz4

    https://postimg.cc/vgmvSC4X


    Robert



    _




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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Feb 4 17:50:53 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/3/2024 12:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Yes, the test only takes 10 seconds because I watched it
    on the 8500 mrimg backup.

    The target for the backups is the 6TB external hd's.
    Yes, I used the new PCI card with3.0 ports. It's a bit
    cumbersome though having to plug it in the rear and
    on the bottom because it's on a board on the floor.

    I couldn't get any of the buttons to react when it was
    hung up. I tried hitting cancel and pause and I try
    clicking cancel and pause but there was no reaction.

    So you want me to use the newer macrium Rescue CD
    for the 8500 ? I made a V7.3.6391, 64 bit on 12-5-23
    so use that instead?

    Robert

    You can test the 6TB manually, using that interface in the picture.
    You can do that from the running copy of Windows, just to verify
    the disk is OK.

    The CD images could use a different driver, and yes, trying
    another one of your CDs might be a quick way to check.

    Paul




    Clean install of Win 10

    I've tried to think this through,....while re-reading instructions

    create mrimg for 8500 Win10 hd before erasing it,
    #2 disconnect the Win 7 external hd
    #4 disconnect Ethernet
    remove external hd
    restart macrium and erase hd following your instructions with command prompt remove macrium Rescue CD and replace with 22H2 DVD+DRL and leave tray open, close macrium and reboot

    #3 - I choose Legacy Bios, correct? Am I booting to the BIOS at this
    point, F2 ?
    How do I enable Legacy vs UEFI and how do I enable Secure Boot?
    #5 - were not booting from a flash drive but a DVD, I assume the tray
    will close
    automatically at this point and load 22H2?
    #6 - 64 bit installation
    #9 - skip product key
    #10 - select Win 10 Pro edition to install
    #14 - I'm unclear what to do here,... since the hd drive will be erased
    it shouldn't have
    any partitions. Do I just click on the drive letter it gives me?
    #23 - > go to step 25

    #25 - bogus phone number,
    click lower left offline account
    do I enter bogus phone number again?
    Windows 10 Enterprise - click lower left; Domain join instead
    click lower left - Limited Experience
    enter User name - Administrator's name?
    enter password -
    confirm password
    security questions
    privacy settings - I usually turn all of these off except inking & typing
    skip forums
    skip Cortana

    #27 - Network Discovery - no
    #28 - Welcome to Windows -
    #29 - set time zone/date and time
    #30 - install drivers e.g. FF, SeaMonkey, A/V Suite, bookmarks, My
    Documents


    What do you think?

    Robert



    _



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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Mon Feb 5 00:06:28 2024
    On 2/4/2024 8:50 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Clean install of Win 10

    I've tried to think this through,....while re-reading instructions

    create mrimg for 8500 Win10 hd before erasing it, <=== good idea
    #2 disconnect the Win 7 external hd
    #4 disconnect Ethernet
    remove external hd
    restart macrium and erase hd following your instructions with command prompt <=== Yes, you can select it, then do "clean"
    remove macrium Rescue CD and replace with 22H2 DVD+DRL and leave tray open, close macrium and reboot

    #3 - I choose Legacy Bios, correct? Am I booting to the BIOS at this point, F2 ?
    How do I enable Legacy vs UEFI and how do I enable Secure Boot? <=== use the BIOS mode as currently set
    you want W7 and W10 disks to boot the same way
    #5 - were not booting from a flash drive but a DVD, I assume the tray will close
    automatically at this point and load 22H2?
    #6 - 64 bit installation <=== fixed by the DVD you made
    #9 - skip product key
    #10 - select Win 10 Pro edition to install <=== Yes
    #14 - I'm unclear what to do here,... since the hd drive will be erased it shouldn't have
    any partitions. Do I just click on the drive letter it gives me? <=== The big partition is C:
    #23 - > go to step 25

    #25 - bogus phone number, <=== Mainly, you want offline account in the left corner
    click lower left offline account <=== You don't need to tease the thing.
    do I enter bogus phone number again? <=== No, keep looking for the Limited Experience option
    Windows 10 Enterprise - click lower left; Domain join instead <=== You're doing Pro, not Enterprise.
    click lower left - Limited Experience
    enter User name - Administrator's name? <=== Yes, this will be your administrator
    enter password -
    confirm password
    security questions
    privacy settings - I usually turn all of these off except inking & typing
    skip forums
    skip Cortana <=== Yes, generally skip all the silly stuff.

    #27 - Network Discovery - no <=== Might be used for File Sharing or Printing issues
    <=== Your network is a Private one.
    #28 - Welcome to Windows -
    #29 - set time zone/date and time <=== Set time zone at least. Eyeball time correctness.
    #30 - install drivers e.g. FF, SeaMonkey, A/V Suite, bookmarks, My Documents <=== It will do a lot of drivers for you

    What do you think?

    Robert

    *******

    Your list looks pretty good. I put comments by the side.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Feb 5 01:33:11 2024
    On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
    have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.

    We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.

    Robert

    Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?

    The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
    As is the SATA port for the hard drive.

    The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
    And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.

    Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
    so they require a key press at that point. Will a
    key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.

    I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Feb 4 22:19:37 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/4/2024 8:50 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Clean install of Win 10

    I've tried to think this through,....while re-reading instructions

    create mrimg for 8500 Win10 hd before erasing it, <=== good idea
    #2 disconnect the Win 7 external hd
    #4 disconnect Ethernet
    remove external hd
    restart macrium and erase hd following your instructions with command prompt <=== Yes, you can select it, then do "clean"
    remove macrium Rescue CD and replace with 22H2 DVD+DRL and leave tray open, close macrium and reboot

    #3 - I choose Legacy Bios, correct? Am I booting to the BIOS at this point, F2 ?
    How do I enable Legacy vs UEFI and how do I enable Secure Boot? <=== use the BIOS mode as currently set
    you want W7 and W10 disks to boot the same way
    #5 - were not booting from a flash drive but a DVD, I assume the tray will close
    automatically at this point and load 22H2?
    #6 - 64 bit installation <=== fixed by the DVD you made
    #9 - skip product key
    #10 - select Win 10 Pro edition to install <=== Yes
    #14 - I'm unclear what to do here,... since the hd drive will be erased it shouldn't have
    any partitions. Do I just click on the drive letter it gives me? <=== The big partition is C:
    #23 - > go to step 25

    #25 - bogus phone number, <=== Mainly, you want offline account in the left corner
    click lower left offline account <=== You don't need to tease the thing.
    do I enter bogus phone number again? <=== No, keep looking for the Limited Experience option
    Windows 10 Enterprise - click lower left; Domain join instead <=== You're doing Pro, not Enterprise.
    click lower left - Limited Experience
    enter User name - Administrator's name? <=== Yes, this will be your administrator
    enter password -
    confirm password
    security questions
    privacy settings - I usually turn all of these off except inking & typing skip forums
    skip Cortana <=== Yes, generally skip all the silly stuff.

    #27 - Network Discovery - no <=== Might be used for File Sharing or Printing issues
    <=== Your network is a Private one.
    #28 - Welcome to Windows -
    #29 - set time zone/date and time <=== Set time zone at least. Eyeball time correctness.
    #30 - install drivers e.g. FF, SeaMonkey, A/V Suite, bookmarks, My Documents <=== It will do a lot of drivers for you

    What do you think?

    Robert

    *******

    Your list looks pretty good. I put comments by the side.

    Paul


    After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I
    boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to
    start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical
    drive like the 780 does and I usually have to hit F12 several times to
    change the boot order and select the CD.

    We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything
    on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.

    Robert



    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Feb 5 18:56:54 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
    have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.

    We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.

    Robert

    Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?

    The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
    As is the SATA port for the hard drive.

    The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
    And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.

    Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
    so they require a key press at that point. Will a
    key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.

    I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.

    Paul




    The 8500 doesn't 'see' the optical drive for some weird reason during
    boot. When I do my mrimgs I have to hit F12 to select the optical drive.
    and then hit any key to activate it.

    I believe we tried to fix it once before but it didn't take for some
    reason.

    The 780 however 'sees' the optical drive during boot for doing mrimgs.


    Robert


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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Feb 5 18:44:09 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
    have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.

    We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.

    Robert

    Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?

    The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
    As is the SATA port for the hard drive.

    The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
    And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.

    Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
    so they require a key press at that point. Will a
    key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.

    I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.

    Paul



    I tried to subscribe to Solani again on the 780 Win7 but
    found I had a older version of Seamonkey which offered
    a download for a newer stable version. So I downloaded
    it (hex8) and then installed it but still same thing nothing.

    https://postimg.cc/k6WJqmhd

    Robert



    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Feb 5 20:58:57 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
    have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.

    We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.

    Robert

    Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?

    The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
    As is the SATA port for the hard drive.

    The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
    And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.

    Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
    so they require a key press at that point. Will a
    key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.

    I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.

    Paul



    I checked the BIOS and boot order, then the hard disk drives,
    then the CD/DVD ROM Drives. Then the 4th boot device.
    How do I change the boot order ?


    https://postimg.cc/5XszhZX0

    https://postimg.cc/DJXbb0BJ

    https://postimg.cc/T5jLCS8T

    https://postimg.cc/YvD4nYPL


    Thanks,
    Robert


    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Feb 7 05:09:41 2024
    On 2/5/2024 9:44 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
    have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.

    We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.

    Robert

    Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?

    The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
    As is the SATA port for the hard drive.

    The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
    And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.

    Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
    so they require a key press at that point. Will a
    key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.

    I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.

        Paul



    I tried to subscribe to Solani again on the 780 Win7 but
    found I had a  older version of Seamonkey which offered
    a download for a newer stable version. So I  downloaded
    it (hex8) and then installed it but still same thing nothing.

    https://postimg.cc/k6WJqmhd

    Robert

    When I connect to Solani on port 119, I'm getting
    a username and password prompt, whether I select
    "Always Request Authentication" or not.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/cJjHFSfg/solani-account-prompt.gif

    Is that what you see when looking at the newsgroup subscription ?

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Feb 7 04:37:27 2024
    On 2/5/2024 11:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
    have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.

    We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.

    Robert

    Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?

    The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
    As is the SATA port for the hard drive.

    The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
    And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.

    Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
    so they require a key press at that point. Will a
    key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.

    I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.

        Paul



    I checked the BIOS and boot order, then the hard disk drives,
    then the CD/DVD ROM Drives. Then the 4th boot device.
    How do I change the boot order ?


    https://postimg.cc/5XszhZX0

    https://postimg.cc/DJXbb0BJ

    https://postimg.cc/T5jLCS8T

    https://postimg.cc/YvD4nYPL


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, you would click on the third row (say, the Optical drive
    you want to promote to the top), and on the right hand pane where
    it provides help, it tells you what keys to use for elevation. It
    might be the plus key and the minus key, to make it go up and down.
    The arrow keys would allow you to focus on a different row, then use
    the + and - keys to move the item around.

    It should usually be some sort of combination of keys like that.

    For my Retail UEFI BIOS here, I've never tried to move the
    boot icons around with a mouse :-) I've got enough broken stuff
    without starting into that. I just prefer to use the popup boot
    key if I have a special thing that needs doing. On this machine,
    F11 is popup boot and <Delete> key gets me into the BIOS. On
    the Asus machine, F8 is popup boot and <Delete> key gets me into the
    BIOS. Another machine, I think F2 gets me into the BIOS.

    *******

    OK, from some manual

    https://www.manualslib.com/manual/417162/Dell-Xps-8500.html?page=127#manual

    Changing Boot Sequence for Future Boots

    1) Enter system setup. See "Entering System Setup" on page 119. [That's your "BIOS key"]

    2) Use the arrow keys to highlight the Boot menu option
    and press <Enter> to access the menu.

    NOTE:

    3) Press the up-arrow and down-arrow keys to move through the list of devices
    [this navigates to the row you want to act on]

    4) Press plus (+) or minus (–) to change the boot priority of the device
    [push device up the screen].

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Feb 7 06:01:07 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/5/2024 11:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
    have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.

    We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.

    Robert

    Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?

    The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
    As is the SATA port for the hard drive.

    The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
    And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.

    Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
    so they require a key press at that point. Will a
    key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.

    I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.

        Paul



    I checked the BIOS and boot order, then the hard disk drives,
    then the CD/DVD ROM Drives. Then the 4th boot device.
    How do I change the boot order ?


    https://postimg.cc/5XszhZX0

    https://postimg.cc/DJXbb0BJ

    https://postimg.cc/T5jLCS8T

    https://postimg.cc/YvD4nYPL


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, you would click on the third row (say, the Optical drive
    you want to promote to the top), and on the right hand pane where
    it provides help, it tells you what keys to use for elevation. It
    might be the plus key and the minus key, to make it go up and down.
    The arrow keys would allow you to focus on a different row, then use
    the + and - keys to move the item around.

    It should usually be some sort of combination of keys like that.

    For my Retail UEFI BIOS here, I've never tried to move the
    boot icons around with a mouse :-) I've got enough broken stuff
    without starting into that. I just prefer to use the popup boot
    key if I have a special thing that needs doing. On this machine,
    F11 is popup boot and <Delete> key gets me into the BIOS. On
    the Asus machine, F8 is popup boot and <Delete> key gets me into the
    BIOS. Another machine, I think F2 gets me into the BIOS.

    *******

    OK, from some manual

    https://www.manualslib.com/manual/417162/Dell-Xps-8500.html?page=127#manual

    Changing Boot Sequence for Future Boots

    1) Enter system setup. See "Entering System Setup" on page 119. [That's your "BIOS key"]

    2) Use the arrow keys to highlight the Boot menu option
    and press <Enter> to access the menu.

    NOTE:

    3) Press the up-arrow and down-arrow keys to move through the list of devices
    [this navigates to the row you want to act on]

    4) Press plus (+) or minus (–) to change the boot priority of the device
    [push device up the screen].

    Paul



    I hit F2 to access my BIOS on the 8500 Win7,..
    I'll try and change it and let you know how it
    goes.

    Yes, that's what I see when trying to subscribe
    to Solani.


    Robert


    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Feb 7 07:42:46 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/5/2024 11:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
    have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.

    We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.

    Robert

    Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?

    The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
    As is the SATA port for the hard drive.

    The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
    And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.

    Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
    so they require a key press at that point. Will a
    key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.

    I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.

        Paul



    I checked the BIOS and boot order, then the hard disk drives,
    then the CD/DVD ROM Drives. Then the 4th boot device.
    How do I change the boot order ?


    https://postimg.cc/5XszhZX0

    https://postimg.cc/DJXbb0BJ

    https://postimg.cc/T5jLCS8T

    https://postimg.cc/YvD4nYPL


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, you would click on the third row (say, the Optical drive
    you want to promote to the top), and on the right hand pane where
    it provides help, it tells you what keys to use for elevation. It
    might be the plus key and the minus key, to make it go up and down.
    The arrow keys would allow you to focus on a different row, then use
    the + and - keys to move the item around.

    It should usually be some sort of combination of keys like that.

    For my Retail UEFI BIOS here, I've never tried to move the
    boot icons around with a mouse :-) I've got enough broken stuff
    without starting into that. I just prefer to use the popup boot
    key if I have a special thing that needs doing. On this machine,
    F11 is popup boot and <Delete> key gets me into the BIOS. On
    the Asus machine, F8 is popup boot and <Delete> key gets me into the
    BIOS. Another machine, I think F2 gets me into the BIOS.

    *******

    OK, from some manual

    https://www.manualslib.com/manual/417162/Dell-Xps-8500.html?page=127#manual

    Changing Boot Sequence for Future Boots

    1) Enter system setup. See "Entering System Setup" on page 119. [That's your "BIOS key"]

    2) Use the arrow keys to highlight the Boot menu option
    and press <Enter> to access the menu.

    NOTE:

    3) Press the up-arrow and down-arrow keys to move through the list of devices
    [this navigates to the row you want to act on]

    4) Press plus (+) or minus (–) to change the boot priority of the device
    [push device up the screen].

    Paul




    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert


    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Feb 7 14:37:18 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/5/2024 11:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/5/2024 1:19 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    After I erase the hd and if I'm not changing anything in BIOS when I boot and the tray is open with the 22H2 DVD how do I initialize it to start Win10 installation? Because the 8500 doesn't recognize the optical drive like the 780 does and I usually
    have to hit F12 several times to change the boot order and select the CD.

    We also have to get Solani working on the 780 Win7 before I do anything on the 8500. I'll try again tomorrow.

    Robert

    Isn't the optical drive in the boot order ?

    The SATA port for the optical drive should be "ON".
    As is the SATA port for the hard drive.

    The optical drive should be before the HDD, in the boot order.
    And it should be picked up automatically, if a disc is in the tray.

    Some discs, they say "press a key to boot from DVD..." ,
    so they require a key press at that point. Will a
    key press from your Microsoft keyboard work ? Dunno.

    I realize the Dell is a piece of work, when it comes to booting.

        Paul



    I checked the BIOS and boot order, then the hard disk drives,
    then the CD/DVD ROM Drives. Then the 4th boot device.
    How do I change the boot order ?


    https://postimg.cc/5XszhZX0

    https://postimg.cc/DJXbb0BJ

    https://postimg.cc/T5jLCS8T

    https://postimg.cc/YvD4nYPL


    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, you would click on the third row (say, the Optical drive
    you want to promote to the top), and on the right hand pane where
    it provides help, it tells you what keys to use for elevation. It
    might be the plus key and the minus key, to make it go up and down.
    The arrow keys would allow you to focus on a different row, then use
    the + and - keys to move the item around.

    It should usually be some sort of combination of keys like that.

    For my Retail UEFI BIOS here, I've never tried to move the
    boot icons around with a mouse :-) I've got enough broken stuff
    without starting into that. I just prefer to use the popup boot
    key if I have a special thing that needs doing. On this machine,
    F11 is popup boot and <Delete> key gets me into the BIOS. On
    the Asus machine, F8 is popup boot and <Delete> key gets me into the
    BIOS. Another machine, I think F2 gets me into the BIOS.

    *******

    OK, from some manual

    https://www.manualslib.com/manual/417162/Dell-Xps-8500.html?page=127#manual

    Changing Boot Sequence for Future Boots

    1) Enter system setup. See "Entering System Setup" on page 119. [That's your "BIOS key"]

    2) Use the arrow keys to highlight the Boot menu option
    and press <Enter> to access the menu.

    NOTE:

    3) Press the up-arrow and down-arrow keys to move through the list of devices
    [this navigates to the row you want to act on]

    4) Press plus (+) or minus (–) to change the boot priority of the device
    [push device up the screen].

    Paul



    I'm on the 780 using Solani

    I tried subscribing to Solani on the 780 Win7 again
    and this time it worked.


    Robert


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Feb 7 18:17:45 2024
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Feb 8 00:56:21 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

    Paul




    Now that we have the optical drive working and Solani
    finally let me subscribe I think I'm ready to give it a try
    and see if I can erase the Win10 hd and then install Win10
    with the 22h2 DVD.

    I want to re-read the instructions again and make sure I'm
    not forgetting anything. Then will give it a try and let you
    know how it goes.

    Robert


    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Feb 8 12:33:58 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

    Paul





    I started to run the mrimg then I got this:

    https://postimg.cc/XGH6Hkrn

    https://postimg.cc/zbWTp0tg

    https://postimg.cc/w3Qwpj2s

    https://postimg.cc/d70Y8f05

    Ok now what? Should I run chkdsk from
    the command prompt?

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert


    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Feb 9 15:24:21 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

    Paul



    I’m on the 780; I started the chkdsk C: /r

    https://postimg.cc/nXJnRdqm

    https://postimg.cc/K1vH8B2V

    It’s weird its X: not C: after I did the cd/

    At present; Stage is at 56% and Total is 8%


    Also SeaMonkey prompted me for my
    Username and password.


    Robert


    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Feb 9 21:38:44 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

    Paul




    I ran the chkdsk C: /r then ran the mrimg.
    The 3rd picture shows a Recycle bin folder
    and System Volume Information folder. I did
    not create those. I usually only see the
    8500 Mrimgs folder. The fourth picture shows
    the mrimg I created at the top.

    https://postimg.cc/5Q8Z8S8L

    https://postimg.cc/4HR04Hjd

    https://postimg.cc/zb7dN2wd

    https://postimg.cc/7G5CPf0p

    Tomorrow I'll erase the hd and then install
    Win10. I'll let you know how it goes.



    Robert
    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Feb 10 07:39:51 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

    Paul





    I think I'm going to take a day or so
    to let my back rest before tackle erasing
    and installing Win 10 on the 8500.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Feb 10 11:25:59 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

    Paul



    I started the procedure to erase the hd but it doesn’t
    appear to be doing anything? It’s been 30 minutes
    now and I don’t see any files or folders being erased.
    Is it supposed to run like this?

    https://postimg.cc/gnHXrMNf

    In passing, Solani again prompted me for my User
    name and password even after I clicked the box to
    remember it. This is getting tiring. So I used Paganini
    instead.

    Robert



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Feb 10 19:45:48 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

    Paul


    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/Mv4XdcX6

    https://postimg.cc/YL0qxkHL

    https://postimg.cc/67hWJT6G


    I completed erasing the hd and exited from the command prompt.
    I disconnected the Ethernet connection and removed the Macrium
    Rescue CD and put in the 22H2 DVD and left the tray open as instructed.
    then restarted the 8500.

    The tray closed automatically and started Win 10 installation, It
    restarted (11) times and I clicked that I don’t have a Product Key
    number because you said not to enter the product key but will it
    ask for it later?

    Each time it had me enter the same information as before and it seemed
    like was in a loop. It installs Windows then restarts then starts the
    same thing all over.

    It finally moved forward and I was able to install Win 10 but it didn’t
    ask for any email or phone number or show any anything in the lower left corner. Once I selected Win10 Pro it just went from one screen to another.

    I switched hd's back to Win 7 Pro for the time being.

    I'll start adding things and change the settings so FF is my browser,
    turn off notifications and install SeaMonkey, Word/Excel and Dell
    Imaging. Then my A/V suite,bookmarks and finally My Documents.

    Also next time I do mrimgs, delete the Rogue User mrimg.


    Robert




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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Feb 11 08:13:05 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

    Paul






    Here's pics of the install:

    https://postimg.cc/3dX0yY3r

    https://postimg.cc/5H0XkzLj

    https://postimg.cc/hfvPnnh3

    https://postimg.cc/3kD8yZXX

    https://postimg.cc/D4ZF7Qfb

    https://postimg.cc/68RK6pKz

    https://postimg.cc/5YPdKH59

    https://postimg.cc/qN8fVDc5

    https://postimg.cc/9w4SxLF1

    https://postimg.cc/FfDBNMYD

    this was taken after a restart to compare the changes
    in the primary partition.

    https://postimg.cc/jWF48tw0

    https://postimg.cc/mty3vQzS

    https://postimg.cc/5HT8BgTf

    https://postimg.cc/Thrnbr9X

    https://postimg.cc/Wd4ZxxP2

    https://postimg.cc/9DN921Wy

    https://postimg.cc/dkGZ8YG9

    https://postimg.cc/fSK3rf2t

    https://postimg.cc/yWzv26ps

    https://postimg.cc/Czc7ZGhx

    https://postimg.cc/zHJwvB4h



    Robert


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  • From Rob in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Feb 11 14:48:32 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

    Paul




    This is a test on the 8500 Win10


    Robert

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  • From Rob in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Feb 11 17:57:03 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

    Paul



    This is a test on the 8500 Win 10 User Account.

    I’ve downloaded all my A/V suite, and installed
    Word, Excel, Dell Imaging. I still have to import
    my bookmarks and copy/paste My Documents.

    I looked and I don’t seem to have a link to download
    and install Macrium. Could you please provide one?

    It looks like were pretty much done unless you want
    to try to fix the bad hd or we can clone other hd’s?


    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Many Thanks,
    Robert







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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Feb 11 19:33:57 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

    Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert





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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Feb 13 02:27:21 2024
    On 2/9/2024 6:24 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

        Paul



    I’m on the 780; I started the chkdsk C: /r

    https://postimg.cc/nXJnRdqm

    https://postimg.cc/K1vH8B2V

    It’s weird its X: not C: after I did the cd/

    At present; Stage is at 56% and Total is 8%


    Also SeaMonkey prompted me for my
    Username and password.


    Robert

    It's a bad block scan and it is proceeding slowly.

    The drive may not be healthy.

    The SMART table (HDTune health), may show the number
    of reallocated sectors.

    Paul


    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Feb 13 02:24:58 2024
    On 2/8/2024 3:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

        Paul





    I started to run the mrimg then I got this:

    https://postimg.cc/XGH6Hkrn

    https://postimg.cc/zbWTp0tg

    https://postimg.cc/w3Qwpj2s

    https://postimg.cc/d70Y8f05

    Ok now what? Should I run chkdsk from
    the command prompt?

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    So it's asking you to do a bad block scan, which
    means the $MFT must have had a CRC error.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Feb 13 02:43:09 2024
    On 2/10/2024 12:38 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I ran the chkdsk C: /r then ran the mrimg.
    The 3rd picture shows a Recycle bin folder
    and System Volume Information folder. I did
    not create those. I usually only see the
    8500 Mrimgs folder. The fourth picture shows
    the mrimg I created at the top.

    https://postimg.cc/5Q8Z8S8L

    https://postimg.cc/4HR04Hjd

    https://postimg.cc/zb7dN2wd

    https://postimg.cc/7G5CPf0p

    Tomorrow I'll erase the hd and then install
    Win10. I'll let you know how it goes.



    Robert

    These are normal folders. They are created when an ordinary
    boot OS sees a new drive. System Volume Information can
    hold shadow copies. The recycle bin is for holding
    files to be deleted, temporarily. System Volume Information
    is "access denied", you are not normally allowed in there
    for a look.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Feb 13 02:38:35 2024
    On 2/9/2024 6:24 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

        Paul



    I’m on the 780; I started the chkdsk C: /r

    https://postimg.cc/nXJnRdqm

    https://postimg.cc/K1vH8B2V

    It’s weird its X: not C: after I did the cd/

    At present; Stage is at 56% and Total is 8%


    Also SeaMonkey prompted me for my
    Username and password.


    Robert

    https://forum.macrium.com/14308/MFT-corrupt-Error-code-6-Please-run-chkdsk-C-r

    "Error code 6 means that a file system cluster used by a file is marked as available
    in the volume bitmap. We've never seen this not corrected by running chkdsk, so this
    is very strange. If you can't correct this and are confident that your file system
    has no error then you can turn off file system checking."

    But the version of CHKDSK seems to have an impact on how well CHKDSK cleans up.

    You would be surprised how many versions exist. (The installed OS has a version of course, but the installer DVD also has a version, and the command line parameters can be different.)

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Feb 13 02:45:25 2024
    On 2/10/2024 2:25 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I started the procedure to erase the hd but it doesn’t
    appear to be doing anything? It’s been 30 minutes
    now and I don’t see any files or folders being erased.
    Is it supposed to run like this?

    https://postimg.cc/gnHXrMNf

    In passing, Solani again prompted me for my User
    name and password even after I clicked the box to
    remember it. This is getting tiring. So I used Paganini
    instead.

    Robert

    You have not checked the health status of this drive yet.
    I like HDTune Health tab that displays SMART.

    An alternative, is to run a read transfer rate benchmark
    and look for downward spikes indicating "bad spots" on
    the surface of the disk.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Feb 13 02:52:29 2024
    On 2/10/2024 10:45 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I completed erasing the hd and exited from the command prompt.
    I disconnected the Ethernet connection and  removed the Macrium
    Rescue CD and put in the 22H2 DVD and left the tray open as instructed.
    then restarted the 8500.

    The tray closed automatically and started Win 10 installation, It restarted (11) times and I clicked that I don’t have a Product Key number because you said not to enter the product key but will it
    ask for it later?

    Each time it had me enter the same information as before and it seemed like was in a loop. It installs Windows then restarts then starts the same thing all over.

    It finally moved forward and I was able to install Win 10 but it didn’t ask for any email or phone number or show any anything in the lower left corner. Once I selected Win10 Pro it just went from one screen to another.

    I switched hd's back to Win 7 Pro for the time being.

    I'll start adding things and change the settings so FF is my browser, turn off notifications and install SeaMonkey, Word/Excel and Dell Imaging. Then my A/V suite,bookmarks and finally My Documents.

    Also next time I do mrimgs, delete the Rogue User mrimg.


    Robert

    You were not supposed to "Press a key" on subsequent boot cycles :-)
    But you could not know that, unless someone warned you about it.

    The sequence would be:

    1) Insert DVD.
    2) The *first* time when prompted to "Press a key to boot from DVD"
    you would press the key.
    3) After the request for the first reboot, you can remove the DVD from the tray.
    The DVD is completely copied during the first cycle.
    Unlike a WinXP install, the DVD is not required for subsequent cycles.
    4) After getting the thing to boot from the DVD the
    first time in (2), you no longer need to "Press a key to boot from DVD"
    after you've done it the one time in (2).

    As long as the DVD does not boot again, that breaks the cycle.

    As far as I know, it really should do a (2) prompt, but knowing
    the crazy BIOS Dell uses, who knows how they will foul that up.

    In any case, the DVD is not needed after the initial copy cycle.

    *******

    In Administrator window

    slmgr /dlv

    and that should indicate

    License status: Licensed

    as the fourth line from the bottom.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Feb 13 02:57:01 2024
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Rob in CA on Tue Feb 13 04:08:10 2024
    On 2/11/2024 8:57 PM, Rob in CA wrote:


    This is a test on the 8500 Win 10 User Account.

    I’ve downloaded all my A/V suite, and installed
    Word, Excel, Dell Imaging. I still have to import
    my bookmarks and copy/paste My Documents.

    I looked and I don’t seem to have a link to download
    and install Macrium.  Could you please provide one?

    It looks like were pretty much done unless you want
    to try to fix the bad hd or we can clone other hd’s?


    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Many Thanks,
    Robert

    You would need to check the Health of the bad drive.

    The HDTune Health tab might work.

    Was the drive used ? Like, off Ebay ?

    Or is this one of your brand new drives
    you've purchased in the past, that has
    now gone bad ?

    You can try running an HDTune Benchmark on it as well.

    *******

    Example of Macrium Download.

    https://download.macrium.com/reflect/v7/v7.3.6391/reflect_setup_free_x64.exe

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Feb 13 05:14:21 2024
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

        Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version). The other OSes don't work as well.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Feb 13 03:09:22 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

        Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version). The other OSes don't work as well.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif

    Paul








    I believe I bought the hd from Newegg and was a Win7 hd
    in the computer until we upgraded to Win 10 and I put them
    away. So it was a new hd that went bad but it seems OK now
    though. I haven't encountered any problems with it.

    I'll check the hd with HD-tune and show you the results.

    Thanks for the Macrium download link, I appreciate it

    I actually used the search box to get allot of things done. I'd
    rather keep it there. It helps me navigate Win10. I try and not
    open up news and interests and all the tile crap.

    I don't understand how you can run HD-Tune with Macrium?

    I have almost everything done on the 8500 Win10, after
    I download Macrium I'll nearly be done.

    However, I hit a snag. for some weird reason I can't install my
    Dell Image Expert 2000 on Win10 even though I have the
    original CD it keeps giving me an error and won't complete.

    I do have good copies of it on Win 7 so I copy/ pasted the folder
    to a Patriot and then to the Win10 User Account Programs(x86)
    in hopes you can figure a way to get it to run from there?

    https://postimg.cc/kBfrKzmQ

    https://postimg.cc/XBLPKGTj

    Once complete I'll create a mrimg,...

    Then we can do anything you would like me to do.



    Robert




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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Feb 13 03:14:33 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

        Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version). The other OSes don't work as well.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif

    Paul






    forgot a pic. So is there a way to install it from the folder?


    https://postimg.cc/bZDQ7qbY

    Thanks,
    Robert




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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Feb 13 06:21:07 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

        Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version). The other OSes don't work as well.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif

    Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
    HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert








    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Feb 14 04:20:00 2024
    On 2/13/2024 6:09 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

         Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif

        Paul








    I believe I bought the hd from Newegg and was a Win7 hd
    in the computer until we upgraded to Win 10 and I put them
    away. So it was a new hd that went bad but it seems OK now
    though. I haven't encountered any problems with it.

    I'll check the hd with HD-tune and show you the results.

    Thanks for the Macrium download link, I appreciate it

    I actually used the search box to get allot of things done. I'd
    rather keep it there. It helps me navigate Win10. I try and not
    open up news and interests and all the tile crap.

    I don't understand how you can run HD-Tune with Macrium?

    I have almost everything done on the 8500 Win10,  after
    I download Macrium I'll nearly be done.

    However, I hit a snag. for some weird reason I can't install my
    Dell Image Expert 2000 on Win10 even though I have the
    original CD it keeps giving me an error and won't complete.

    I do have good copies of it on Win 7 so I copy/ pasted the folder
    to a Patriot and then to the Win10 User Account Programs(x86)
    in hopes you can figure a way to get it to run from there?

    https://postimg.cc/kBfrKzmQ

    https://postimg.cc/XBLPKGTj

    Once complete I'll create a mrimg,...

    Then we can do anything you would like me to do.



    Robert

    You should be using your administrator account, to do a program install.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Feb 14 04:31:23 2024
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

         Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif

        Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
    HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

    https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
    Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
    the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).

    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
    You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
    access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
    So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
    it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button,
    and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after
    you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
    place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
    the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
    and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
    Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Feb 14 05:35:30 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

         Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif

        Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
    HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

    https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
    Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
    the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).

    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
    You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
    access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
    So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
    it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button,
    and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after
    you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
    place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
    the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
    and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
    Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    Paul




    I understand what you mean about using Macrium
    and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
    say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
    it had no issues.

    My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
    to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
    computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
    So it was installed recently and it worked fine.

    Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
    should be very straightforward and I've done this before
    and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?





    Robert


    _


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Feb 14 05:20:51 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

         Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif

        Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
    HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

    https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
    Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
    the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).

    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
    You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
    access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
    So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
    it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button,
    and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after
    you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
    place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
    the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
    and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
    Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    Paul





    I actually did download it on the Administrator Account but it didn't
    complete but left a partially working icon. In that, it gives an error
    then it opens up. However, there's no application that I can bring over
    to the User Account which is why I was trying to install it there via
    Admin Account number.

    https://postimg.cc/p99mwc7m

    I switched hd's and tried running it again on the 8500 Win 10
    Administrators Account:

    https://postimg.cc/CR3P8Xj0

    https://postimg.cc/0MfcLNh5

    https://postimg.cc/67xcqRX5

    https://postimg.cc/Sjxrnkw8

    https://postimg.cc/jwFJw07Q

    https://postimg.cc/sQ60MXm6

    I tried repairing and uninstalling and running it before but it
    gave the same results

    https://postimg.cc/PvnvzbSP


    Thoughts/suggestions ?

    Robert





    _



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Feb 14 19:17:02 2024
    On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

          Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif

         Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
    HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

        https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
    Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
    the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).

    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
        You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
        access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
        So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
        it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button,
    and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after
    you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
    place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
    the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
    and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
    Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    I understand what you mean about using Macrium
    and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
    say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
    it had no issues.

    My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
    to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
    computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
    So it was installed recently and it worked fine.

    Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
    should be very straightforward and I've done this before
    and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?

    Robert

    The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
    Click the "Compatibility" tab.

    You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
    Tick the box to turn on the mode.

    In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.

    Click Apply in the lower-right corner.

    Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
    apply a compatibility layer, making things
    "look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
    Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
    I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.

    This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
    It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
    in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
    That's why an application still might not work right.

    Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
    in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
    have tried to install that one in Windows 10.

    *******

    After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
    "main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
    to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
    that later, once the install problem is overcome.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Feb 14 18:44:22 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

          Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif

         Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
    HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

        https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
    Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so, >>> the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).

    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
        You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
        access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
        So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
        it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button,
    and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after
    you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
    place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped >>> the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
    and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
    Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    I understand what you mean about using Macrium
    and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
    say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
    it had no issues.

    My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
    to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
    computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
    So it was installed recently and it worked fine.

    Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
    should be very straightforward and I've done this before
    and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?

    Robert

    The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
    Click the "Compatibility" tab.

    You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
    Tick the box to turn on the mode.

    In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.

    Click Apply in the lower-right corner.

    Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
    apply a compatibility layer, making things
    "look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
    Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
    I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.

    This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
    It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
    in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
    That's why an application still might not work right.

    Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
    in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
    have tried to install that one in Windows 10.

    *******

    After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
    "main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
    to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
    that later, once the install problem is overcome.

    Paul





    I went into Properties and changed the settings

    https://postimg.cc/7CstpQpJ

    but it failed again. Then I tried to repair it and uninstalled it
    and then tried again and seemed like it was working but it failed
    again.

    https://postimg.cc/8jQXQvn4

    https://postimg.cc/0Kpf2tHf

    https://postimg.cc/wt7QsxG3

    https://postimg.cc/ctZ3TdXR

    https://postimg.cc/Dmdph0kK

    https://postimg.cc/mPq8jFM7

    https://postimg.cc/R61dvsYT

    https://postimg.cc/BPqgb59f

    https://postimg.cc/KR8fy5Dn

    https://postimg.cc/yJcXTp7z

    The Dell Image Expert 2000 icon looks different in Programs
    Win 7 and Win 10. They both are the same size though?

    https://postimg.cc/HjsXJk8m - Win 7

    https://postimg.cc/w1JmKtZX - Win 10

    I found this link with people having the same problem but dated 2008.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/windows-general/dell-image-expert/647e684cf4ccf8a8def59c91


    I was thinking maybe I can download on of these?

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-us/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r55365

    https://dell-picture-studio-dell-image-expert.updatestar.com/en


    What do you think?

    Robert




    _


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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Feb 14 22:13:17 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and -
    signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it
    was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

          Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif

         Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
    HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

        https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
    Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so, >>> the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).

    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
        You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
        access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
        So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
        it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button,
    and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after
    you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
    place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped >>> the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
    and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
    Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    I understand what you mean about using Macrium
    and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
    say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
    it had no issues.

    My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
    to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
    computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
    So it was installed recently and it worked fine.

    Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
    should be very straightforward and I've done this before
    and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?

    Robert

    The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
    Click the "Compatibility" tab.

    You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
    Tick the box to turn on the mode.

    In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.

    Click Apply in the lower-right corner.

    Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
    apply a compatibility layer, making things
    "look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
    Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
    I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.

    This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
    It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
    in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
    That's why an application still might not work right.

    Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
    in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
    have tried to install that one in Windows 10.

    *******

    After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
    "main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
    to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
    that later, once the install problem is overcome.

    Paul







    Success @!

    You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
    uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the
    settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and
    un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it
    in both the Admin Account and User Account on the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK

    https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC

    The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,.......

    If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like
    maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you
    want me to do something else?

    Many thanks for all your good help,

    Robert







    _



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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Feb 15 03:17:52 2024
    On 2/14/2024 9:44 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went into Properties and changed the settings

    https://postimg.cc/7CstpQpJ

    but it failed again. Then I tried to repair it and uninstalled it
    and then tried again and seemed like it was working but it failed
    again.

    https://postimg.cc/8jQXQvn4

    https://postimg.cc/0Kpf2tHf

    https://postimg.cc/wt7QsxG3

    https://postimg.cc/ctZ3TdXR

    https://postimg.cc/Dmdph0kK

    https://postimg.cc/mPq8jFM7

    https://postimg.cc/R61dvsYT

    https://postimg.cc/BPqgb59f

    https://postimg.cc/KR8fy5Dn

    https://postimg.cc/yJcXTp7z

    The Dell Image Expert 2000 icon looks different in Programs
    Win 7 and Win 10. They both are the same size though?

    https://postimg.cc/HjsXJk8m - Win 7

    https://postimg.cc/w1JmKtZX - Win 10

    I found this link with people having the same problem but dated 2008.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/windows-general/dell-image-expert/647e684cf4ccf8a8def59c91

    I was thinking maybe I can download on of these?

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-us/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r55365

    https://dell-picture-studio-dell-image-expert.updatestar.com/en


    What do you think?

    Robert


    I got it working.

    It turns out it does not need Compatibility mode after all.

    It needs Windows Defender "RealTime Protection" turned off.

    This file, "did not apply" when I tried it. My install is 3.2.0
    and it's possible this one wants something like 3.3.1 but it did
    not say what the problem was. I used this *after* my install worked,
    so there were files in Program Files (x86) for it to modify if it wanted.
    But it didn't work.

    https://www.dell.com/support/home/en-ca/drivers/driversdetails?driverid=r55365

    *******

    Here is a picture of me installing it. You may be able to tell
    from the file sizes, whether my version is similar to yours or not.
    I think it is older than yours. But, it's running. I don't have
    QuickTime or Acrobat Reader installed, as it asked for.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/Qtd1C6m8/Win10-Dell-Image-Expert-2000.gif

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Feb 15 03:34:30 2024
    On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could
    I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

           Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

          [Picture]

           https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif

          Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
    HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

         https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
    Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so, >>>> the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10). >>>>
    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
         You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
         access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
         So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
         it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button,
    and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after
    you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
    place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped >>>> the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
    and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
    Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    I understand what you mean about using Macrium
    and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
    say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
    it had no issues.

    My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
    to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
    computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
    So it was installed recently and it worked fine.

    Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
    should be very straightforward and I've done this before
    and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?

    Robert

    The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
    Click the "Compatibility" tab.

    You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
    Tick the box to turn on the mode.

    In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.

    Click Apply in the lower-right corner.

    Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
    apply a compatibility layer, making things
    "look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
    Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
    I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.

    This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
    It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
    in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
    That's why an application still might not work right.

    Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
    in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
    have tried to install that one in Windows 10.

    *******

    After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
    "main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
    to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
    that later, once the install problem is overcome.

         Paul







    Success @!

    You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
    uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User Account on
    the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK

    https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC

    The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,.......

    If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like
    maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you
    want me to do something else?

    Many thanks for all your good help,

    Robert

    At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
    partition with the problem is C:

    If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
    text as it runs.

    If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
    could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
    bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
    (like five hours) and see what the scan shows.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Feb 15 04:37:31 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>> I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

           Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

          [Picture]

           https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif >>>>>>>
          Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
    HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

         https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
    Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so, >>>>> the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10). >>>>>
    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
         You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
         access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
         So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
         it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
    place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped >>>>> the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
    and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
    Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    I understand what you mean about using Macrium
    and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
    say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
    it had no issues.

    My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
    to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
    computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
    So it was installed recently and it worked fine.

    Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
    should be very straightforward and I've done this before
    and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?

    Robert

    The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
    Click the "Compatibility" tab.

    You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
    Tick the box to turn on the mode.

    In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.

    Click Apply in the lower-right corner.

    Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
    apply a compatibility layer, making things
    "look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
    Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
    I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.

    This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
    It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
    in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
    That's why an application still might not work right.

    Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
    in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
    have tried to install that one in Windows 10.

    *******

    After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
    "main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
    to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
    that later, once the install problem is overcome.

         Paul







    Success @!

    You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
    uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User Account on
    the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK

    https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC

    The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,.......

    If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like
    maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you
    want me to do something else?

    Many thanks for all your good help,

    Robert

    At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
    partition with the problem is C:

    If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
    text as it runs.

    If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
    could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
    bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
    (like five hours) and see what the scan shows.

    Paul


    I’m on the 780

    I ran the chkdsk from the command prompt
    on the 8500 Win 10 as Administrator but it
    said the volume was being used and did I want
    to schedule it for the next time it restarted? I
    said yes and restarted the computer but it ran
    very fast and was over in a matter of seconds
    which seemed odd to me.

    https://postimg.cc/94sgrDCF

    https://postimg.cc/QVQYdNPh

    https://postimg.cc/9R31csYD

    Then I remembered I ran the other chkdsk using
    the Macrium Rescue CD and the command prompt
    there.

    I’m running the HD-Tune scan now then I will do
    the chkdsk /f C: again using the Macrium Rescue CD.
    and let you know how everything goes.


    Robert





    _



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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Feb 15 08:10:25 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>> I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

           Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

          [Picture]

           https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif >>>>>>>
          Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
    HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

         https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
    Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so, >>>>> the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10). >>>>>
    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
         You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
         access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
         So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
         it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
    place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped >>>>> the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
    and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
    Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    I understand what you mean about using Macrium
    and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
    say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
    it had no issues.

    My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
    to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
    computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
    So it was installed recently and it worked fine.

    Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
    should be very straightforward and I've done this before
    and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?

    Robert

    The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
    Click the "Compatibility" tab.

    You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
    Tick the box to turn on the mode.

    In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.

    Click Apply in the lower-right corner.

    Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
    apply a compatibility layer, making things
    "look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
    Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
    I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.

    This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
    It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
    in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
    That's why an application still might not work right.

    Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
    in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
    have tried to install that one in Windows 10.

    *******

    After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
    "main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
    to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
    that later, once the install problem is overcome.

         Paul







    Success @!

    You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
    uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User Account on
    the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK

    https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC

    The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,.......

    If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like
    maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you
    want me to do something else?

    Many thanks for all your good help,

    Robert

    At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
    partition with the problem is C:

    If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
    text as it runs.

    If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
    could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
    bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
    (like five hours) and see what the scan shows.

    Paul


    Here's the HD-Tune scan:

    https://postimg.cc/0MKFYgy0

    then I ran the chkdsk /f C: with the Macrium Rescue CD

    https://postimg.cc/VSdVwynP

    In passing, when I use Solani on the 8500 it doesn't ask
    for the User name and password but the 780 does. Why
    the difference?


    Robert






    _



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Feb 15 08:21:27 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>> I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

           Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

          [Picture]

           https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif >>>>>>>
          Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
    HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

         https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
    Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so, >>>>> the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10). >>>>>
    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86).
         You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
         access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
         So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use
         it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or
    place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped >>>>> the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
    and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
    Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    I understand what you mean about using Macrium
    and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
    say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
    it had no issues.

    My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
    to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
    computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
    So it was installed recently and it worked fine.

    Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
    should be very straightforward and I've done this before
    and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?

    Robert

    The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
    Click the "Compatibility" tab.

    You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
    Tick the box to turn on the mode.

    In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.

    Click Apply in the lower-right corner.

    Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
    apply a compatibility layer, making things
    "look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
    Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
    I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.

    This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
    It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
    in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
    That's why an application still might not work right.

    Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
    in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
    have tried to install that one in Windows 10.

    *******

    After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
    "main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
    to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
    that later, once the install problem is overcome.

         Paul







    Success @!

    You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
    uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User Account on
    the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK

    https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC

    The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,.......

    If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like
    maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you
    want me to do something else?

    Many thanks for all your good help,

    Robert

    At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
    partition with the problem is C:

    If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
    text as it runs.

    If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
    could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
    bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
    (like five hours) and see what the scan shows.

    Paul


    Here's the HD-Tune scan:

    https://postimg.cc/0MKFYgy0

    then I ran the chkdsk /f C: with the Macrium Rescue CD

    https://postimg.cc/ZvxW5MpJ

    In passing, when I use Solani on the 8500 it doesn't ask
    for the User name and password but the 780 does.



    Robert




    _




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Feb 15 18:47:07 2024
    On 2/15/2024 11:10 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>>> I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

            Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off
    News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these
    things bother you, as to whether you would care about details
    like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

           [Picture]

            https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif >>>>>>>>
           Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
    HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

          https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
    Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
    the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10). >>>>>>
    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86). >>>>>>       You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
          access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running. >>>>>>       So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use >>>>>>       it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or >>>>>> place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped >>>>>> the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
    and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
    Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    I understand what you mean about using Macrium
    and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
    say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
    it had no issues.

    My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
    to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
    computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
    So it was installed recently and it worked fine.

    Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
    should be very straightforward and I've done this before
    and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?

    Robert

    The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
    Click the "Compatibility" tab.

    You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
    Tick the box to turn on the mode.

    In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.

    Click Apply in the lower-right corner.

    Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
    apply a compatibility layer, making things
    "look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
    Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
    I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.

    This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
    It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
    in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
    That's why an application still might not work right.

    Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
    in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
    have tried to install that one in Windows 10.

    *******

    After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
    "main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
    to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
    that later, once the install problem is overcome.

          Paul







    Success @!

    You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
    uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User Account
    on the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK

    https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC

    The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,.......

    If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like
    maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you
    want me to do something else?

    Many thanks for all your good help,

    Robert

    At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
    partition with the problem is C:

    If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
    text as it runs.

    If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
    could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
    bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
    (like five hours) and see what the scan shows.

        Paul


    Here's the HD-Tune scan:

    https://postimg.cc/0MKFYgy0

    then I ran the chkdsk /f C: with the Macrium Rescue CD

    https://postimg.cc/VSdVwynP

    In passing, when I use Solani on the 8500 it doesn't ask
    for the User name and password but the 780 does. Why
    the difference?


    Robert

    "44C"

    Is that drive inside the PC or in the enclosure ?

    That's a bit warm.

    The Dell boxes don't necessarily move a lot of air for cooling.

    Your CHKDSK was clean.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Feb 15 18:23:16 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 11:10 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>>>> I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

            Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the
    menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off >>>>>>>>> News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these >>>>>>>>> things bother you, as to whether you would care about details >>>>>>>>> like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

           [Picture]

            https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif >>>>>>>>>
           Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
    HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

          https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive.
    Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
    the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10). >>>>>>>
    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86). >>>>>>>       You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
          access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running. >>>>>>>       So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use >>>>>>>       it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or >>>>>>> place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
    the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
    and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
    Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    I understand what you mean about using Macrium
    and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
    say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
    it had no issues.

    My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
    to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
    computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
    So it was installed recently and it worked fine.

    Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
    should be very straightforward and I've done this before
    and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?

    Robert

    The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it.
    Click the "Compatibility" tab.

    You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
    Tick the box to turn on the mode.

    In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.

    Click Apply in the lower-right corner.

    Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
    apply a compatibility layer, making things
    "look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
    Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
    I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.

    This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
    It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
    in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
    That's why an application still might not work right.

    Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
    in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
    have tried to install that one in Windows 10.

    *******

    After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
    "main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
    to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
    that later, once the install problem is overcome.

          Paul







    Success @!

    You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
    uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User Account
    on the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK

    https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC

    The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,.......

    If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like
    maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you
    want me to do something else?

    Many thanks for all your good help,

    Robert

    At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
    partition with the problem is C:

    If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
    text as it runs.

    If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
    could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
    bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
    (like five hours) and see what the scan shows.

        Paul


    Here's the HD-Tune scan:

    https://postimg.cc/0MKFYgy0

    then I ran the chkdsk /f C: with the Macrium Rescue CD

    https://postimg.cc/VSdVwynP

    In passing, when I use Solani on the 8500 it doesn't ask
    for the User name and password but the 780 does. Why
    the difference?


    Robert

    "44C"

    Is that drive inside the PC or in the enclosure ?

    That's a bit warm.

    The Dell boxes don't necessarily move a lot of air for cooling.

    Your CHKDSK was clean.

    Paul





    The drive is inside the computer. I cleaned it
    the first time I opened it but maybe I need to
    clean it again. The problem is all the perforated
    holes and they are hard to get clean even with
    the mini vac. They should make an attachment
    for those.

    That said, the computer is very quiet and runs
    smooth and has lasted all these years with your
    good help.

    I switched hd's again and deleted the rogue user
    mrimg before starting. Then completed a mrimg
    on the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/TyrRsX9g

    Everything is looking good. and looks like we've
    got everything done.

    Unless you want me to do anything I guess were
    finished.

    In passing, do you think we'll still be able to message
    after Google pulls the plug? I think I'm going to send
    you a test message then just to check and make sure,

    Many, many thanks for all your good help,


    Robert




    _





    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Feb 16 00:24:57 2024
    On 2/15/2024 9:23 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 11:10 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>>>>> I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked!

    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

             Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the >>>>>>>>>> menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the
    search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off >>>>>>>>>> News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these >>>>>>>>>> things bother you, as to whether you would care about details >>>>>>>>>> like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune,
    the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

            [Picture]

             https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif >>>>>>>>>>
            Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a
    HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

           https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive. >>>>>>>> Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
    the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).

    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86). >>>>>>>>        You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
           access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running. >>>>>>>>        So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use >>>>>>>>        it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or >>>>>>>> place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
    the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD
    and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do.
    Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    I understand what you mean about using Macrium
    and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
    say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
    it had no issues.

    My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
    to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
    computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
    So it was installed recently and it worked fine.

    Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
    should be very straightforward and I've done this before
    and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?

    Robert

    The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it. >>>>>> Click the "Compatibility" tab.

    You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
    Tick the box to turn on the mode.

    In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.

    Click Apply in the lower-right corner.

    Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
    apply a compatibility layer, making things
    "look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
    Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
    I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.

    This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
    It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
    in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
    That's why an application still might not work right.

    Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
    in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
    have tried to install that one in Windows 10.

    *******

    After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
    "main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
    to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
    that later, once the install problem is overcome.

           Paul







    Success @!

    You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
    uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User Account
    on the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK

    https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC

    The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,....... >>>>>
    If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like
    maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you
    want me to do something else?

    Many thanks for all your good help,

    Robert

    At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
    partition with the problem is C:

    If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
    text as it runs.

    If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
    could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
    bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
    (like five hours) and see what the scan shows.

         Paul


    Here's the HD-Tune scan:

    https://postimg.cc/0MKFYgy0

    then I ran the chkdsk /f C: with the Macrium Rescue CD

    https://postimg.cc/VSdVwynP

    In passing, when I use Solani on the 8500 it doesn't ask
    for the User name and password but the 780 does. Why
    the difference?


    Robert

    "44C"

    Is that drive inside the PC or in the enclosure ?

    That's a bit warm.

    The Dell boxes don't necessarily move a lot of air for cooling.

    Your CHKDSK was clean.

        Paul





    The drive is inside the computer. I cleaned it
    the first time I opened it but maybe I need to
    clean it again. The problem is all the perforated
    holes and they are hard to get clean even with
    the mini vac. They should make an attachment
    for those.

    That said, the computer is very quiet and runs
    smooth and has lasted all these years with your
    good help.

    I switched hd's again and deleted the rogue user
    mrimg before starting. Then completed a mrimg
    on the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/TyrRsX9g

    Everything is looking good. and looks like we've
    got everything done.

    Unless you want me to do anything I guess were
    finished.

    In passing, do you think we'll still be able to message
    after Google pulls the plug? I think I'm going to send
    you a test message then just to check and make sure,

    Many, many thanks for all your good help,


    Robert

    You're welcome.

    Enjoy your new OS :-)

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Feb 23 01:10:48 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 9:23 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 11:10 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>>>>>> I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked! >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

             Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the >>>>>>>>>>> menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the >>>>>>>>>>> search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off >>>>>>>>>>> News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these >>>>>>>>>>> things bother you, as to whether you would care about details >>>>>>>>>>> like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune, >>>>>>>>>>> the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

            [Picture]

             https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif

            Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a >>>>>>>>>> HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

           https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive. >>>>>>>>> Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
    the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).

    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86). >>>>>>>>>        You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
           access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
           So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use >>>>>>>>>        it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>>>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>>>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or >>>>>>>>> place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
    the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD >>>>>>>>> and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do. >>>>>>>>> Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    I understand what you mean about using Macrium
    and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
    say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
    it had no issues.

    My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
    to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
    computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
    So it was installed recently and it worked fine.

    Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
    should be very straightforward and I've done this before
    and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?

    Robert

    The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it. >>>>>>> Click the "Compatibility" tab.

    You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
    Tick the box to turn on the mode.

    In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.

    Click Apply in the lower-right corner.

    Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
    apply a compatibility layer, making things
    "look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
    Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
    I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.

    This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
    It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
    in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
    That's why an application still might not work right.

    Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
    in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
    have tried to install that one in Windows 10.

    *******

    After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
    "main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
    to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
    that later, once the install problem is overcome.

           Paul







    Success @!

    You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
    uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User
    Account on the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK

    https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC

    The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,....... >>>>>>
    If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like >>>>>> maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you >>>>>> want me to do something else?

    Many thanks for all your good help,

    Robert

    At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
    partition with the problem is C:

    If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
    text as it runs.

    If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
    could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
    bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
    (like five hours) and see what the scan shows.

         Paul


    Here's the HD-Tune scan:

    https://postimg.cc/0MKFYgy0

    then I ran the chkdsk /f C: with the Macrium Rescue CD

    https://postimg.cc/VSdVwynP

    In passing, when I use Solani on the 8500 it doesn't ask
    for the User name and password but the 780 does. Why
    the difference?


    Robert

    "44C"

    Is that drive inside the PC or in the enclosure ?

    That's a bit warm.

    The Dell boxes don't necessarily move a lot of air for cooling.

    Your CHKDSK was clean.

        Paul





    The drive is inside the computer. I cleaned it
    the first time I opened it but maybe I need to
    clean it again. The problem is all the perforated
    holes and they are hard to get clean even with
    the mini vac. They should make an attachment
    for those.

    That said, the computer is very quiet and runs
    smooth and has lasted all these years with your
    good help.

    I switched hd's again and deleted the rogue user
    mrimg before starting. Then completed a mrimg
    on the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/TyrRsX9g

    Everything is looking good. and looks like we've
    got everything done.

    Unless you want me to do anything I guess were
    finished.

    In passing, do you think we'll still be able to message
    after Google pulls the plug? I think I'm going to send
    you a test message then just to check and make sure,

    Many, many thanks for all your good help,


    Robert

    You're welcome.

    Enjoy your new OS :-)

    Paul



    I'm just testing to see if we can still connect via SeaMonkey
    after Google has pulled the plug. Please respond if you can
    see this post.

    You won't believe what happened,.. right after we had just
    finished all our work on the computers,... my phone went out
    and then the Internet, just as I was about to use it. Thankfully,
    I got the Internet connection back in an hour, whew! It sure
    gave me a scare after all our hard work. You can imagine how
    I felt.

    The phone is still out though with no dial tone. I had already
    placed a online ticket for it before I lost the Internet and they
    said it would be about a week before they could get someone
    out here. This was the second time I've had phone problems.
    The last time, whenever I tried to call out I got a busy signal.

    I finally got my phone connection back today a week later,..
    no one came out to check anything or called to say it was OK.
    Same as before. It was on their end.

    The only problem I've noticed on the computers is there's a lag
    sometimes when opening pages and I have to reload it. I try to
    keep only what I'm working on open.

    I'll continue to update/run the scans and of course I'll continue
    with the monthly mrimgs.

    If I have any problems I'll let you know.

    In passing, you mentioned there were allot of version's of chkdsk,
    I thought chkdsk was a DOS command?

    Thanks again for all your good help,
    Robert





    _



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Feb 23 01:20:21 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 9:23 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 11:10 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>>>>>> I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked! >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

             Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the >>>>>>>>>>> menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the >>>>>>>>>>> search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off >>>>>>>>>>> News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these >>>>>>>>>>> things bother you, as to whether you would care about details >>>>>>>>>>> like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune, >>>>>>>>>>> the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

            [Picture]

             https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif

            Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a >>>>>>>>>> HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

           https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive. >>>>>>>>> Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
    the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).

    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86). >>>>>>>>>        You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
           access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
           So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use >>>>>>>>>        it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>>>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>>>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or >>>>>>>>> place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
    the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD >>>>>>>>> and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do. >>>>>>>>> Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    I understand what you mean about using Macrium
    and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
    say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
    it had no issues.

    My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
    to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
    computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
    So it was installed recently and it worked fine.

    Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
    should be very straightforward and I've done this before
    and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?

    Robert

    The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it. >>>>>>> Click the "Compatibility" tab.

    You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
    Tick the box to turn on the mode.

    In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.

    Click Apply in the lower-right corner.

    Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
    apply a compatibility layer, making things
    "look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
    Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
    I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.

    This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
    It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
    in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
    That's why an application still might not work right.

    Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
    in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
    have tried to install that one in Windows 10.

    *******

    After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
    "main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
    to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
    that later, once the install problem is overcome.

           Paul







    Success @!

    You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
    uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User
    Account on the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK

    https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC

    The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,....... >>>>>>
    If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like >>>>>> maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you >>>>>> want me to do something else?

    Many thanks for all your good help,

    Robert

    At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
    partition with the problem is C:

    If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
    text as it runs.

    If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
    could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
    bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
    (like five hours) and see what the scan shows.

         Paul


    Here's the HD-Tune scan:

    https://postimg.cc/0MKFYgy0

    then I ran the chkdsk /f C: with the Macrium Rescue CD

    https://postimg.cc/VSdVwynP

    In passing, when I use Solani on the 8500 it doesn't ask
    for the User name and password but the 780 does. Why
    the difference?


    Robert

    "44C"

    Is that drive inside the PC or in the enclosure ?

    That's a bit warm.

    The Dell boxes don't necessarily move a lot of air for cooling.

    Your CHKDSK was clean.

        Paul





    The drive is inside the computer. I cleaned it
    the first time I opened it but maybe I need to
    clean it again. The problem is all the perforated
    holes and they are hard to get clean even with
    the mini vac. They should make an attachment
    for those.

    That said, the computer is very quiet and runs
    smooth and has lasted all these years with your
    good help.

    I switched hd's again and deleted the rogue user
    mrimg before starting. Then completed a mrimg
    on the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/TyrRsX9g

    Everything is looking good. and looks like we've
    got everything done.

    Unless you want me to do anything I guess were
    finished.

    In passing, do you think we'll still be able to message
    after Google pulls the plug? I think I'm going to send
    you a test message then just to check and make sure,

    Many, many thanks for all your good help,


    Robert

    You're welcome.

    Enjoy your new OS :-)

    Paul



    It looks like we've lost our connection...


    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Feb 23 01:16:13 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 9:23 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 11:10 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/15/2024 1:13 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/14/2024 8:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/13/2024 9:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/11/2024 10:33 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/7/2024 10:42 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Success !

    https://postimg.cc/7GwHPk90

    However, there was a certain trick to it,. I used the + and - >>>>>>>>>>>>>> signs to move it but I didn't see it move and looked like it >>>>>>>>>>>>>> was doing nothing. Only when I closed the application could >>>>>>>>>>>>>> I see the results.

    I tested it with a Macrium Rescue CD and it worked! >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
    Robert

    Good, that ought to help a bit.

             Paul



    Here's the User Account on the 8500 Win 10:


    https://postimg.cc/yDFdRMzk

    https://postimg.cc/TLHYGGnH

    https://postimg.cc/RJ6CZ8RC


    Robert

    If you right-click the Taskbar, the second item down in the >>>>>>>>>>> menu is "Search" and you can set that to Hidden, and the >>>>>>>>>>> search box on the taskbar will be gone.

    News and Interests also is in that menu, and you can turn off >>>>>>>>>>> News and Interests if you want. It all depends how much these >>>>>>>>>>> things bother you, as to whether you would care about details >>>>>>>>>>> like that.

    *******

    When testing hard drives on the benchmark test in HDTune, >>>>>>>>>>> the best result comes when I run it from the Macrium Rescue CD (x86 version).
    The other OSes don't work as well.

            [Picture]

             https://i.postimg.cc/Hs9rmjnm/HDTune-Vs-OS-Used.gif

            Paul









    I ran HD-Tune and the various scan it offered:

    https://postimg.cc/y3y596Gh

    https://postimg.cc/crjjnz9b

    https://postimg.cc/Vdbg3kgK

    https://postimg.cc/d7Q8tsRP

    https://postimg.cc/F1SJvktk

    I'm on the trial HD-Tune Pro version on the 8500 Win 10
    somehow but that was the download I had for it. The one
    on my Win 7 is a older version. Could you please provide a >>>>>>>>>> HD-Tune link that's free?

    https://postimg.cc/KK9HDvmx

    then checked disk management

    https://postimg.cc/0b87PGpX

    then downloaded macrium

    https://postimg.cc/4n1hLKr6

    here's the desktop

    https://postimg.cc/XXNvvsz5


    Robert

    The free version is 2.55.

           https://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

    Your pictures do not suggest there is a problem with the drive. >>>>>>>>> Reallocated is zero, hours of usage of the drive is only 300 hours or so,
    the benchmark curve looks relatively clean (for a trace done in Win10).

    *******

    To run a trace using the Macrium CD, you need:

    1) The 32-bit (x86) version of the Macrium CD

    2) Only attempt to run 32 bit programs from C:\Program Files (x86). >>>>>>>>>        You can navigate there with the Macrium file manager thing on the desktop.

    3) You can install HDTune 2.55 on your C: drive and then
           access the folder for it, when Macrium x86 CD is running.
           So you have to install HDTune, before attempting to use >>>>>>>>>        it in Macrium.

    The HDTune menu has a floppy diskette icon for a "screenshot" button, >>>>>>>>> and this can be used to capture a shot of the benchmark screen after >>>>>>>>> you run it. Then, you can transfer the file to some other device or >>>>>>>>> place that is convenient to you. I used File Sharing for that and popped
    the picture over to the other machine.

    It gives a clean trace, because it's not a noisy OS on the CD >>>>>>>>> and it does not while away the hours thinking of stuff to do. >>>>>>>>> Unlike Windows 10.

    If Microsoft would put a button in the OS, to shut down all
    the noisy stuff going on, then we would not need to resort
    to tricks to do checks like this.

    I understand what you mean about using Macrium
    and HD-Tune for a cleaner trace but from what you
    say my hd looks OK and after I did the Chkdsk C:/r
    it had no issues.

    My only problem now is getting Image Expert 2000
    to install. I don't understand it. I've done it on both
    computers on Win 7 and the 780 has it on its Win 10.
    So it was installed recently and it worked fine.

    Why is the 8500 Win 10 giving me this problem? This
    should be very straightforward and I've done this before
    and there wasn't any hassle at all. I don't get it?

    Robert

    The Setup.exe file in the installkit folder , do Properties on it. >>>>>>> Click the "Compatibility" tab.

    You'll see a line there "Compatibility Mode".
    Tick the box to turn on the mode.

    In the pulldown menu, select Windows 7.

    Click Apply in the lower-right corner.

    Now when you start the Setup.exe , the OS will
    apply a compatibility layer, making things
    "look more like Windows 7". Since you report that
    Windows 7 works for that installer, that's where
    I would start, via the Compatibility Mode method.

    This method is far from bulletproof, but it is worth a try.
    It sometimes achieves a good result. Not every subsystem
    in the OS gets bodged using this method, only some of them.
    That's why an application still might not work right.

    Microsoft keeps records of how installers have made out
    in the past, and it is possible not a lot of people
    have tried to install that one in Windows 10.

    *******

    After an installation attempt succeeds, sometimes the
    "main executable" in the Program Files folder, may need
    to have Compatibility applied to it. You can worry about
    that later, once the install problem is overcome.

           Paul







    Success @!

    You gave me the key when we switched the install to Win 7. So I
    uninstalled it and then ran it again but this time I changed the settings to everyone can use it and a Custom install vs Typical and un-ticked boxesthat were obsolete. It finished this time and I tested it in both the Admin Account and User
    Account on the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/Y4kY1JxK

    https://postimg.cc/vcFBg5zC

    The only thing left to do is the mrimg and I'll do that later,....... >>>>>>
    If you want we could continue and do something with the bad hd like >>>>>> maybe erase it and use the 22H2 again to create a Win10? Or if you >>>>>> want me to do something else?

    Many thanks for all your good help,

    Robert

    At this point, you might use a CHKDSK /f C: if the
    partition with the problem is C:

    If you run that in an Administrator window, you can read the
    text as it runs.

    If it is unable to fix the partition for some reason, there
    could be a bad block on there. Remember that HDTune has the
    bad block scanner, and you can leave that running for a while
    (like five hours) and see what the scan shows.

         Paul


    Here's the HD-Tune scan:

    https://postimg.cc/0MKFYgy0

    then I ran the chkdsk /f C: with the Macrium Rescue CD

    https://postimg.cc/VSdVwynP

    In passing, when I use Solani on the 8500 it doesn't ask
    for the User name and password but the 780 does. Why
    the difference?


    Robert

    "44C"

    Is that drive inside the PC or in the enclosure ?

    That's a bit warm.

    The Dell boxes don't necessarily move a lot of air for cooling.

    Your CHKDSK was clean.

        Paul





    The drive is inside the computer. I cleaned it
    the first time I opened it but maybe I need to
    clean it again. The problem is all the perforated
    holes and they are hard to get clean even with
    the mini vac. They should make an attachment
    for those.

    That said, the computer is very quiet and runs
    smooth and has lasted all these years with your
    good help.

    I switched hd's again and deleted the rogue user
    mrimg before starting. Then completed a mrimg
    on the 8500 Win 10.

    https://postimg.cc/TyrRsX9g

    Everything is looking good. and looks like we've
    got everything done.

    Unless you want me to do anything I guess were
    finished.

    In passing, do you think we'll still be able to message
    after Google pulls the plug? I think I'm going to send
    you a test message then just to check and make sure,

    Many, many thanks for all your good help,


    Robert

    You're welcome.

    Enjoy your new OS :-)

    Paul



    I don't know if you can see this post or not because Google isn't
    showing them. It's as I feared,.... it's still 635 and it should be
    637 and 638 after I post this.

    Please let me know if you can see this.


    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Feb 23 08:37:57 2024
    On 2/23/2024 4:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I don't know if you can see this post or not because Google isn't showing them.
    It's as I feared,.... it's still 635 and it should be
    637 and 638 after I post this.

    Please let me know if you can see this.


    Robert

    The USENET side of things should be working.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Feb 23 08:38:34 2024
    On 2/23/2024 4:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    It looks like we've lost our connection...


    Robert

    Not really.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Feb 23 08:36:37 2024
    On 2/23/2024 4:08 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I'm just testing to see if we can still connect via SeaMonkey
    after Google has pulled the plug. Please respond if you can
    see this post.

    You won't believe what happened,.. right after we had just
    finished all our work on the computers,... my phone went out
    and then the Internet, just as I was about to use it. Thankfully,
    I got the Internet connection back in an hour, whew! It sure
    gave me a scare after all our hard work. You can imagine how
    I felt.

    The phone is still out though with no dial tone. I had already
    placed a online ticket for it before I lost the Internet and they
    said it would be about a week before they could get someone
    out here. This was the second time I've had phone problems.
    The last time, whenever I tried to call out I got a busy signal.

    I finally got my phone connection back today a week later,..
    no one came out to check anything or called to say it was OK.
    Same as before. It was on their end.

    The only problem I've noticed on the computers is there's a lag
    sometimes when opening pages and I have to reload it. I try to
    keep only what I'm working on open.

    I'll continue to update/run the scans and of course I'll continue
    with the monthly mrimgs.

    If I have any problems I'll let you know.

    In passing, you mentioned there were allot of version's of chkdsk,
    I thought chkdsk was a DOS command?

    Thanks again for all your good help,
    Robert

    Yes, USENET still works.

    Sometimes, the slowness in web page rendering, can be caused by the
    rate that DNS queries are being answered by the ISP. Since nobody
    contacted you, it's pretty hard to get an idea what they fixed.

    You would use Task Manager, to see if the CPU is all used up
    by the browser.

    There are a number of things that need to be "cleaned" on browsers.
    I locate the "+++" DOM storage and clear the commercial ones.
    I remove cookies.sqlite and webappsstore.sqlite (I can do that
    because my browsers have no passwords stored in them). If the "webappsstore.sqlite" is over 10MB in size, that tends to slow down
    a session and can make the interaction "laggy" when using the browser.

    CHKDSK is a command line thing. Some of the commands have options,
    that I haven't determined whether they do something useful or not.
    Usually selecting the "fix" option is enough by itself. Except
    in cases where, after a "fix", a re-scan indicates there is still
    trouble present. That's when the additional options may be
    necessary.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Feb 23 20:39:48 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/23/2024 4:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    It looks like we've lost our connection...


    Robert

    Not really.

    Paul





    I just happened to check to see if there were any new messages on SeaMonkey,.....

    So is this is how we do it via SeaMOnkey and not Google?



    Robert



    _

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Feb 24 00:27:01 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/23/2024 4:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I don't know if you can see this post or not because Google isn't showing them.
    It's as I feared,.... it's still 635 and it should be
    637 and 638 after I post this.

    Please let me know if you can see this.


    Robert

    The USENET side of things should be working.

    Paul




    Confirmed,...

    if I have any problems I'll let you know.

    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Feb 24 05:01:41 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/23/2024 4:08 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I'm just testing to see if we can still connect via SeaMonkey
    after Google has pulled the plug. Please respond if you can
    see this post.

    You won't believe what happened,.. right after we had just
    finished all our work on the computers,... my phone went out
    and then the Internet, just as I was about to use it. Thankfully,
    I got the Internet connection back in an hour, whew! It sure
    gave me a scare after all our hard work. You can imagine how
    I felt.

    The phone is still out though with no dial tone. I had already
    placed a online ticket for it before I lost the Internet and they
    said it would be about a week before they could get someone
    out here. This was the second time I've had phone problems.
    The last time, whenever I tried to call out I got a busy signal.

    I finally got my phone connection back today a week later,..
    no one came out to check anything or called to say it was OK.
    Same as before. It was on their end.

    The only problem I've noticed on the computers is there's a lag
    sometimes when opening pages and I have to reload it. I try to
    keep only what I'm working on open.

    I'll continue to update/run the scans and of course I'll continue
    with the monthly mrimgs.

    If I have any problems I'll let you know.

    In passing, you mentioned there were allot of version's of chkdsk,
    I thought chkdsk was a DOS command?

    Thanks again for all your good help,
    Robert

    Yes, USENET still works.

    Sometimes, the slowness in web page rendering, can be caused by the
    rate that DNS queries are being answered by the ISP. Since nobody
    contacted you, it's pretty hard to get an idea what they fixed.

    You would use Task Manager, to see if the CPU is all used up
    by the browser.

    There are a number of things that need to be "cleaned" on browsers.
    I locate the "+++" DOM storage and clear the commercial ones.
    I remove cookies.sqlite and webappsstore.sqlite (I can do that
    because my browsers have no passwords stored in them). If the "webappsstore.sqlite" is over 10MB in size, that tends to slow down
    a session and can make the interaction "laggy" when using the browser.

    CHKDSK is a command line thing. Some of the commands have options,
    that I haven't determined whether they do something useful or not.
    Usually selecting the "fix" option is enough by itself. Except
    in cases where, after a "fix", a re-scan indicates there is still
    trouble present. That's when the additional options may be
    necessary.

    Paul




    just checking your previous messages,..

    all looks good,..

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Feb 24 08:07:59 2024
    On 2/23/2024 11:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/23/2024 4:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    It looks like we've lost our connection...


    Robert

    Not really.

        Paul

    I just happened to check to see if there were any new messages on SeaMonkey,.....

    So is this is how we do it via SeaMOnkey and not Google?



    Robert

    As long as you have a server (and an account for ones with an account),
    you can connect.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Feb 24 15:55:06 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/23/2024 11:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/23/2024 4:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    It looks like we've lost our connection...


    Robert

    Not really.

        Paul

    I just happened to check to see if there were any new messages on SeaMonkey,.....

    So is this is how we do it via SeaMOnkey and not Google?



    Robert

    As long as you have a server (and an account for ones with an account),
    you can connect.

    Paul




    OK,... sounds good.



    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Feb 24 23:44:57 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/23/2024 11:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/23/2024 4:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    It looks like we've lost our connection...


    Robert

    Not really.

        Paul

    I just happened to check to see if there were any new messages on SeaMonkey,.....

    So is this is how we do it via SeaMOnkey and not Google?



    Robert

    As long as you have a server (and an account for ones with an account),
    you can connect.

    Paul



    I think I'll post once a month when I do my mrimgs to
    keep Solani active.


    Robert



    _




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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 1 04:00:04 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/23/2024 11:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/23/2024 4:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    It looks like we've lost our connection...


    Robert

    Not really.

        Paul

    I just happened to check to see if there were any new messages on SeaMonkey,.....

    So is this is how we do it via SeaMOnkey and not Google?



    Robert

    As long as you have a server (and an account for ones with an account),
    you can connect.

    Paul




    Here's the 780 mrimg:

    https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB

    Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
    before I remembered to take a pic.

    https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm


    Robert





    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 1 03:16:20 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/23/2024 11:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 2/23/2024 4:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    It looks like we've lost our connection...


    Robert

    Not really.

        Paul

    I just happened to check to see if there were any new messages on SeaMonkey,.....

    So is this is how we do it via SeaMOnkey and not Google?



    Robert

    As long as you have a server (and an account for ones with an account),
    you can connect.

    Paul




    Things are looking OK,.. the computers are nice and quiet.
    I completed mrimgs on both the 780 and the 8500. It sure
    is nice we fixed the boot order on the 8500 so I don't have
    to hit F12 anymore.

    I'll post again next time I do mrimgs to keep Solani active
    and will let you know if I have any problems.


    Robert




    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Mar 1 09:25:42 2024
    On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Here's the 780 mrimg:

    https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB

    Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
    before I remembered to take a pic.

    https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm


    Robert

    The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
    you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
    better than USB2 rates.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 1 21:30:09 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Here's the 780 mrimg:

    https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB

    Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
    before I remembered to take a pic.

    https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm


    Robert

    The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
    you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
    better than USB2 rates.

    Paul



    Yes,.. the computers are doing very well,..

    I'm glad we got it all done before they pulled
    the plug.

    I'll post again on the next mrimgs.


    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 1 22:58:11 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Here's the 780 mrimg:

    https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB

    Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
    before I remembered to take a pic.

    https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm


    Robert

    The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
    you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
    better than USB2 rates.

    Paul


    Here's 8500 HD-Tune,.. best of three..

    https://postimg.cc/TyXbP3bp

    https://postimg.cc/R6SncpXm

    https://postimg.cc/tn7Zc1Km

    https://postimg.cc/QH9KkTkF


    You're right it is a bit warm, but
    the 780 went from 24 to 32C so
    maybe that normal?

    Robert



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 1 22:56:07 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Here's the 780 mrimg:

    https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB

    Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
    before I remembered to take a pic.

    https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm


    Robert

    The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
    you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
    better than USB2 rates.

    Paul


    Here’s the HD-Tune for the 780 but it doesn’t
    have anything under the health tab and none of
    the boxes under info are checked either.

    I tried to make it like the 8500 but it won’t
    let me.

    https://postimg.cc/2VqKf0m2

    https://postimg.cc/9zsByC5Y

    https://postimg.cc/xJD0KX5S


    Robert




    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Mar 3 12:16:50 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Here's the 780 mrimg:

    https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB

    Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
    before I remembered to take a pic.

    https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm


    Robert

    The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
    you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
    better than USB2 rates.

    Paul



    Although the computers seem fine and as I say they've
    lasted all these years is there anything we can do
    to lower the temp?

    I think you're right Dell cases weren't well designed
    for airflow.

    Aside from the difference in HD-Tune on both computers
    all seems fine. I checked and they both had the same
    version 2.55



    Robert





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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Mar 6 17:03:25 2024
    On 3/3/2024 3:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Here's the 780 mrimg:

    https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB

    Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
    before I remembered to take a pic.

    https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm


    Robert

    The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
    you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
    better than USB2 rates.

        Paul

    Although the computers seem fine and as I say they've
    lasted all these years is there anything we can do
    to lower the temp?

    I think you're right Dell cases weren't well designed
    for airflow.

    Aside from the difference in HD-Tune on both computers
    all seems fine. I checked and they both had the same
    version 2.55

    Robert

    USB does not necessarily have passthru for SMART data.
    This causes the temperature and the health table to go missing.

    And getting a 200MB/sec transfer rate, in one of your pictures,
    is very good. I have very few hard drives that do that well.
    The drives in my disk pile, getting 150MB/sec is doing well.

    You can get higher rates, but the cost of the hard drive is
    prohibitive. At one time, only a 15K RPM drive could do 300MB/sec.
    But there are a few 7200RPM ones now, getting pretty close to 300MB/sec.
    And really, you just want the backup to run, it doesn't have to be
    fancy. Macrium will only do around 350MB/sec or so, anyway. Presumably
    the checksum it calculates, slows it down. Even if you had two
    NVMe at 14000MB/sec, the Macrium would still only run at 350.
    It's not clear if the other backup programs, will run faster
    (AOMEI or Easeus).

    Maybe the Windows Backup would beat them, as I don't think the
    Windows Backup has a checksum protection.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Mar 6 23:48:19 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 3/3/2024 3:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Here's the 780 mrimg:

    https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB

    Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
    before I remembered to take a pic.

    https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm


    Robert

    The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
    you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
    better than USB2 rates.

        Paul

    Although the computers seem fine and as I say they've
    lasted all these years is there anything we can do
    to lower the temp?

    I think you're right Dell cases weren't well designed
    for airflow.

    Aside from the difference in HD-Tune on both computers
    all seems fine. I checked and they both had the same
    version 2.55

    Robert

    USB does not necessarily have passthru for SMART data.
    This causes the temperature and the health table to go missing.

    And getting a 200MB/sec transfer rate, in one of your pictures,
    is very good. I have very few hard drives that do that well.
    The drives in my disk pile, getting 150MB/sec is doing well.

    You can get higher rates, but the cost of the hard drive is
    prohibitive. At one time, only a 15K RPM drive could do 300MB/sec.
    But there are a few 7200RPM ones now, getting pretty close to 300MB/sec.
    And really, you just want the backup to run, it doesn't have to be
    fancy. Macrium will only do around 350MB/sec or so, anyway. Presumably
    the checksum it calculates, slows it down. Even if you had two
    NVMe at 14000MB/sec, the Macrium would still only run at 350.
    It's not clear if the other backup programs, will run faster
    (AOMEI or Easeus).

    Maybe the Windows Backup would beat them, as I don't think the
    Windows Backup has a checksum protection.

    Paul


    Things are looking good on this end. The computers are quiet
    and humming along.

    Robert




    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Apr 1 12:14:32 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 3/3/2024 3:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Here's the 780 mrimg:

    https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB

    Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
    before I remembered to take a pic.

    https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm


    Robert

    The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
    you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
    better than USB2 rates.

        Paul

    Although the computers seem fine and as I say they've
    lasted all these years is there anything we can do
    to lower the temp?

    I think you're right Dell cases weren't well designed
    for airflow.

    Aside from the difference in HD-Tune on both computers
    all seems fine. I checked and they both had the same
    version 2.55

    Robert

    USB does not necessarily have passthru for SMART data.
    This causes the temperature and the health table to go missing.

    And getting a 200MB/sec transfer rate, in one of your pictures,
    is very good. I have very few hard drives that do that well.
    The drives in my disk pile, getting 150MB/sec is doing well.

    You can get higher rates, but the cost of the hard drive is
    prohibitive. At one time, only a 15K RPM drive could do 300MB/sec.
    But there are a few 7200RPM ones now, getting pretty close to 300MB/sec.
    And really, you just want the backup to run, it doesn't have to be
    fancy. Macrium will only do around 350MB/sec or so, anyway. Presumably
    the checksum it calculates, slows it down. Even if you had two
    NVMe at 14000MB/sec, the Macrium would still only run at 350.
    It's not clear if the other backup programs, will run faster
    (AOMEI or Easeus).

    Maybe the Windows Backup would beat them, as I don't think the
    Windows Backup has a checksum protection.

    Paul



    The computers are still running OK,..just humming along.

    Here's the 780 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/jLT8Mzs7

    then C: drive

    https://postimg.cc/gxTHbRP4

    then Disk MGmt

    https://postimg.cc/jwr8BNzm

    HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/z37dPy32



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Apr 1 12:15:45 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 3/3/2024 3:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Here's the 780 mrimg:

    https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB

    Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
    before I remembered to take a pic.

    https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm


    Robert

    The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
    you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
    better than USB2 rates.

        Paul

    Although the computers seem fine and as I say they've
    lasted all these years is there anything we can do
    to lower the temp?

    I think you're right Dell cases weren't well designed
    for airflow.

    Aside from the difference in HD-Tune on both computers
    all seems fine. I checked and they both had the same
    version 2.55

    Robert

    USB does not necessarily have passthru for SMART data.
    This causes the temperature and the health table to go missing.

    And getting a 200MB/sec transfer rate, in one of your pictures,
    is very good. I have very few hard drives that do that well.
    The drives in my disk pile, getting 150MB/sec is doing well.

    You can get higher rates, but the cost of the hard drive is
    prohibitive. At one time, only a 15K RPM drive could do 300MB/sec.
    But there are a few 7200RPM ones now, getting pretty close to 300MB/sec.
    And really, you just want the backup to run, it doesn't have to be
    fancy. Macrium will only do around 350MB/sec or so, anyway. Presumably
    the checksum it calculates, slows it down. Even if you had two
    NVMe at 14000MB/sec, the Macrium would still only run at 350.
    It's not clear if the other backup programs, will run faster
    (AOMEI or Easeus).

    Maybe the Windows Backup would beat them, as I don't think the
    Windows Backup has a checksum protection.

    Paul



    Here's the 8500 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/sv84t7zm

    then C: drive

    https://postimg.cc/ygQZ0CYj

    then Disk MGmt

    https://postimg.cc/JtFXn8F4

    HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/PNCL0cqG

    https://postimg.cc/MXfT9Qsq

    https://postimg.cc/fkvw2fc4

    Robert




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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Apr 9 14:47:17 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 3/3/2024 3:16 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 3/1/2024 7:00 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Here's the 780 mrimg:

    https://postimg.cc/B8z8jvtB

    Here's the 8500 mrimg. I closed the completed box
    before I remembered to take a pic.

    https://postimg.cc/XpWrGmNm


    Robert

    The I/O rate on the 8500 is a little better, as
    you would expect. But at least the 780 is doing
    better than USB2 rates.

        Paul

    Although the computers seem fine and as I say they've
    lasted all these years is there anything we can do
    to lower the temp?

    I think you're right Dell cases weren't well designed
    for airflow.

    Aside from the difference in HD-Tune on both computers
    all seems fine. I checked and they both had the same
    version 2.55

    Robert

    USB does not necessarily have passthru for SMART data.
    This causes the temperature and the health table to go missing.

    And getting a 200MB/sec transfer rate, in one of your pictures,
    is very good. I have very few hard drives that do that well.
    The drives in my disk pile, getting 150MB/sec is doing well.

    You can get higher rates, but the cost of the hard drive is
    prohibitive. At one time, only a 15K RPM drive could do 300MB/sec.
    But there are a few 7200RPM ones now, getting pretty close to 300MB/sec.
    And really, you just want the backup to run, it doesn't have to be
    fancy. Macrium will only do around 350MB/sec or so, anyway. Presumably
    the checksum it calculates, slows it down. Even if you had two
    NVMe at 14000MB/sec, the Macrium would still only run at 350.
    It's not clear if the other backup programs, will run faster
    (AOMEI or Easeus).

    Maybe the Windows Backup would beat them, as I don't think the
    Windows Backup has a checksum protection.

    Paul


    Paul, are you there?

    I just want to be assured in case I have a problem.

    All things are working OK but I need to keep posting
    on Solani in order to keep it active otherwise I'll loose
    it.

    So once a month after I do my mrimgs I'll post on
    here with both servers. Usually, the 1st of the month.
    If I have a problem I'll alert you.

    Robert




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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Apr 10 08:08:51 2024
    On 4/9/2024 5:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Paul, are you there?

    I just want to be assured in case I have a problem.

    All things are working OK but I need to keep posting
    on Solani in order to keep it active otherwise I'll loose
    it.

    So once a month after I do my mrimgs I'll post on
    here with both servers. Usually, the 1st of the month.
    If I have a problem I'll alert you.

    Robert

    Yes, I check the server occasionally.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 10 12:08:17 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 4/9/2024 5:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Paul, are you there?

    I just want to be assured in case I have a problem.

    All things are working OK but I need to keep posting
    on Solani in order to keep it active otherwise I'll loose
    it.

    So once a month after I do my mrimgs I'll post on
    here with both servers. Usually, the 1st of the month.
    If I have a problem I'll alert you.

    Robert

    Yes, I check the server occasionally.

    Paul



    OK,, just wanted to be sure.


    Have a good day,
    Robert



    _


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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Apr 11 01:59:56 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 4/9/2024 5:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Paul, are you there?

    I just want to be assured in case I have a problem.

    All things are working OK but I need to keep posting
    on Solani in order to keep it active otherwise I'll loose
    it.

    So once a month after I do my mrimgs I'll post on
    here with both servers. Usually, the 1st of the month.
    If I have a problem I'll alert you.

    Robert

    Yes, I check the server occasionally.

    Paul


    I don't know if you've noticed but recently
    YouTube has changed its layout where the
    comments are on the right where videos use
    to be and the videos are below where the
    comments use to be.

    I don't have a YouTube Account but is there
    some way of getting my old YouTube layout
    back?

    I wish they would leave things alone.


    Thanks,
    Robert


    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Apr 12 01:35:07 2024
    On 4/11/2024 4:59 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 4/9/2024 5:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Paul, are you there?

    I just want to be assured in case I have a problem.

    All things are working OK but I need to keep posting
    on Solani in order to keep it active otherwise I'll loose
    it.

    So once a month after I do my mrimgs I'll post on
    here with both servers. Usually, the 1st of the month.
    If I have a problem I'll alert you.

    Robert

    Yes, I check the server occasionally.

        Paul


    I don't know if you've noticed but recently
    YouTube has changed its layout where the
    comments are on the right where videos use
    to be and the videos are below where the
    comments use to be.

    I don't have a YouTube Account but is there
    some way of getting my old YouTube layout
    back?

    I wish they would leave things alone.


    Thanks,
    Robert

    The layout I see, is video at the top left,
    alternative videos on the right sidebar, and
    comments are on the left below the feature video.
    As seen on Firefox.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/kMpLt9BB/fryer.gif

    That's shot on Linux, because I can make the
    screen a bit larger, and then the webpage may
    adjust the layout a bit. The print to PDF is
    limited to Tabloid sized pages. The screen dump
    I can do there, can be larger. I can make it so
    large, it can't be posted on postimage (10000x10000 limit).

    The layout could be related to the CSS the
    web page uses (a downloaded piece of info), or
    it can be based on HTML or Javascript.

    Tampermonkey, Greasemonkey, Greasy Fork, these
    are sites or tools that allow providing programmatic
    edits to web pages. You can change the appearance
    of web pages. I believe I got a small change to work
    once, but it took me a while. Don't look at this
    expecting to get something to work, basically look
    at the titles and see how ambitious people are.

    https://greasyfork.org/en/scripts/by-site/youtube.com?page=7

    There is no reason for any of those to be maintained,
    and since the Youtube web pages downloaded can be altered
    on a daily basis, it's like expecting Youtube Downloader
    to work all the time.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Apr 12 02:47:03 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 4/11/2024 4:59 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 4/9/2024 5:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Paul, are you there?

    I just want to be assured in case I have a problem.

    All things are working OK but I need to keep posting
    on Solani in order to keep it active otherwise I'll loose
    it.

    So once a month after I do my mrimgs I'll post on
    here with both servers. Usually, the 1st of the month.
    If I have a problem I'll alert you.

    Robert

    Yes, I check the server occasionally.

        Paul


    I don't know if you've noticed but recently
    YouTube has changed its layout where the
    comments are on the right where videos use
    to be and the videos are below where the
    comments use to be.

    I don't have a YouTube Account but is there
    some way of getting my old YouTube layout
    back?

    I wish they would leave things alone.


    Thanks,
    Robert

    The layout I see, is video at the top left,
    alternative videos on the right sidebar, and
    comments are on the left below the feature video.
    As seen on Firefox.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/kMpLt9BB/fryer.gif

    That's shot on Linux, because I can make the
    screen a bit larger, and then the webpage may
    adjust the layout a bit. The print to PDF is
    limited to Tabloid sized pages. The screen dump
    I can do there, can be larger. I can make it so
    large, it can't be posted on postimage (10000x10000 limit).

    The layout could be related to the CSS the
    web page uses (a downloaded piece of info), or
    it can be based on HTML or Javascript.

    Tampermonkey, Greasemonkey, Greasy Fork, these
    are sites or tools that allow providing programmatic
    edits to web pages. You can change the appearance
    of web pages. I believe I got a small change to work
    once, but it took me a while. Don't look at this
    expecting to get something to work, basically look
    at the titles and see how ambitious people are.

    https://greasyfork.org/en/scripts/by-site/youtube.com?page=7

    There is no reason for any of those to be maintained,
    and since the Youtube web pages downloaded can be altered
    on a daily basis, it's like expecting Youtube Downloader
    to work all the time.

    Paul




    Your gif is the way it use to be but
    it's just the opposite now.

    https://postimg.cc/672v2WGP

    I checked and it says YouTube owned
    by Google is trying out a new layout.



    Thanks,
    Robert




    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed May 1 17:46:37 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 4/11/2024 4:59 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 4/9/2024 5:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Paul, are you there?

    I just want to be assured in case I have a problem.

    All things are working OK but I need to keep posting
    on Solani in order to keep it active otherwise I'll loose
    it.

    So once a month after I do my mrimgs I'll post on
    here with both servers. Usually, the 1st of the month.
    If I have a problem I'll alert you.

    Robert

    Yes, I check the server occasionally.

        Paul


    I don't know if you've noticed but recently
    YouTube has changed its layout where the
    comments are on the right where videos use
    to be and the videos are below where the
    comments use to be.

    I don't have a YouTube Account but is there
    some way of getting my old YouTube layout
    back?

    I wish they would leave things alone.


    Thanks,
    Robert

    The layout I see, is video at the top left,
    alternative videos on the right sidebar, and
    comments are on the left below the feature video.
    As seen on Firefox.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/kMpLt9BB/fryer.gif

    That's shot on Linux, because I can make the
    screen a bit larger, and then the webpage may
    adjust the layout a bit. The print to PDF is
    limited to Tabloid sized pages. The screen dump
    I can do there, can be larger. I can make it so
    large, it can't be posted on postimage (10000x10000 limit).

    The layout could be related to the CSS the
    web page uses (a downloaded piece of info), or
    it can be based on HTML or Javascript.

    Tampermonkey, Greasemonkey, Greasy Fork, these
    are sites or tools that allow providing programmatic
    edits to web pages. You can change the appearance
    of web pages. I believe I got a small change to work
    once, but it took me a while. Don't look at this
    expecting to get something to work, basically look
    at the titles and see how ambitious people are.

    https://greasyfork.org/en/scripts/by-site/youtube.com?page=7

    There is no reason for any of those to be maintained,
    and since the Youtube web pages downloaded can be altered
    on a daily basis, it's like expecting Youtube Downloader
    to work all the time.

    Paul



    I did my monthly mrimgs:

    780:

    https://postimg.cc/mc9hjj5W

    8500:

    https://postimg.cc/MMD63F0N

    Both computers are running nice and
    quiet and just humming along.

    Robert


    _


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed May 1 17:54:01 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 4/11/2024 4:59 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 4/9/2024 5:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Paul, are you there?

    I just want to be assured in case I have a problem.

    All things are working OK but I need to keep posting
    on Solani in order to keep it active otherwise I'll loose
    it.

    So once a month after I do my mrimgs I'll post on
    here with both servers. Usually, the 1st of the month.
    If I have a problem I'll alert you.

    Robert

    Yes, I check the server occasionally.

        Paul


    I don't know if you've noticed but recently
    YouTube has changed its layout where the
    comments are on the right where videos use
    to be and the videos are below where the
    comments use to be.

    I don't have a YouTube Account but is there
    some way of getting my old YouTube layout
    back?

    I wish they would leave things alone.


    Thanks,
    Robert

    The layout I see, is video at the top left,
    alternative videos on the right sidebar, and
    comments are on the left below the feature video.
    As seen on Firefox.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/kMpLt9BB/fryer.gif

    That's shot on Linux, because I can make the
    screen a bit larger, and then the webpage may
    adjust the layout a bit. The print to PDF is
    limited to Tabloid sized pages. The screen dump
    I can do there, can be larger. I can make it so
    large, it can't be posted on postimage (10000x10000 limit).

    The layout could be related to the CSS the
    web page uses (a downloaded piece of info), or
    it can be based on HTML or Javascript.

    Tampermonkey, Greasemonkey, Greasy Fork, these
    are sites or tools that allow providing programmatic
    edits to web pages. You can change the appearance
    of web pages. I believe I got a small change to work
    once, but it took me a while. Don't look at this
    expecting to get something to work, basically look
    at the titles and see how ambitious people are.

    https://greasyfork.org/en/scripts/by-site/youtube.com?page=7

    There is no reason for any of those to be maintained,
    and since the Youtube web pages downloaded can be altered
    on a daily basis, it's like expecting Youtube Downloader
    to work all the time.

    Paul



    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert


    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri May 3 06:57:11 2024
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat May 4 03:43:02 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

    Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    _


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed May 8 21:35:41 2024
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

        Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu May 9 06:33:11 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

        Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

    Paul


    Success! It was the front right turn signal.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat May 18 04:50:03 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

        Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

    Paul



    I have a question regarding my SD cards.
    I move the right protect tab up so that
    I can cut/ paste files to the computer
    but it doesn't take and only shows copy.

    I have to move the tab down then back up
    several times before I get it to work after
    inserting it into the computer and the
    cut option appears. This was happening with
    one card so I switched cards but with the
    same result.

    I don't move it back down afterwards yet
    each time I have to go through this and
    these are fairly new cards.

    I have more SD cards but I'm just wondering
    why won't the tab when moved up remove
    the write protect and stay that way?

    I was thinking maybe when I slide it in the
    slot it's pushing the tab downward?

    Thanks,
    Robert




    _


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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun May 19 03:29:21 2024
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

         Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

        Paul



    I have a question regarding my SD cards.
    I move the right protect tab up so that
    I can cut/ paste files to the computer
    but it doesn't take and only shows copy.

    I have to move the tab down then back up
    several times before I get it to work after
    inserting it into the computer and the
    cut option appears. This was happening with
    one card so I switched cards but with the
    same result.

    I don't move it back down afterwards yet
    each time I have to go through this and
    these are fairly new cards.

    I have more SD cards but I'm just wondering
    why won't the tab when moved up remove
    the write protect and stay that way?

    I was thinking maybe when I slide it in the
    slot it's pushing the tab downward?

    Thanks,
    Robert




    _



    I used the Startech adaptor and was able to
    cut/paste the files. Maybe I'll use that from
    now on but still doesn't explain why I couldn't
    do it in the first place with the 8500 SD port.

    Robert




    -




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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue May 21 00:48:24 2024
    RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

         Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

        Paul



    I have a question regarding my SD cards.
    I move the right protect tab up so that
    I can cut/ paste files to the computer
    but it doesn't take and only shows copy.

    I have to move the tab down then back up
    several times before I get it to work after
    inserting it into the computer and the
    cut option appears. This was happening with
    one card so I switched cards but with the
    same result.

    I don't move it back down afterwards yet
    each time I have to go through this and
    these are fairly new cards.

    I have more SD cards but I'm just wondering
    why won't the tab when moved up remove
    the write protect and stay that way?

    I was thinking maybe when I slide it in the
    slot it's pushing the tab downward?

    Thanks,
    Robert




    _



    I used the Startech adaptor and was able to
    cut/paste the files. Maybe I'll use that from
    now on but still doesn't explain why I couldn't
    do it in the first place with the 8500 SD port.

    Robert




    -




    The same thing happened again so used the Startech
    adapter and was able to cut/paste the files.

    Why does the 8500 SD port no longer perform the cut/paste
    function? It only lets me copy/paste now but I use to be able to
    cut/paste.

    Thoughts?
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri May 24 16:05:50 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

        Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

    Paul



    I see that YouTube has switched it's layout again
    in favor of the comments on the right side margin

    https://postimg.cc/RqRDBscy

    I don't think this is a test, so is there some way to
    change it back so the comments are below?

    Thanks,
    Robert





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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed May 29 16:57:13 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

        Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

    Paul



    This concerns the 8500,.... I think I had too many screens open
    and the computer hung up,.. then it started to generate a low hum.
    I ended up having to power it off and then waited 30 seconds before
    powering it back on and came up with the usual screen that it did not
    power off correctly and I selected normal start- up but then it gave me
    a screen that said one of my disk's wasn't in sync and it wanted to do a
    chkdsk so I let it. I have pics if you want to see but the computer came
    back up and all seems OK.


    Robert

    _




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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri May 31 11:38:48 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

        Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

    Paul



    Are you OK? I only ask because normally you
    respond to my posts.

    Robert


    _

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Jun 6 23:19:36 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

        Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

    Paul



    Please respond if you're OK


    Robert

    _

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jun 11 16:21:01 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

        Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

    Paul



    Please respond if you're OK.

    Robert



    _

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Jun 15 19:53:51 2024
    On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

         Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

        Paul



    Please respond if you're OK.

    Robert

    I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
    and catch up.

    Paul

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Jun 15 18:41:26 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

         Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

        Paul



    Please respond if you're OK.

    Robert

    I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
    and catch up.

    Paul




    I'm so glad you responded !!!!!!!

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Jun 16 07:03:34 2024
    On 5/19/2024 6:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

         Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

        Paul



    I have a question regarding my SD cards.
    I move the right protect tab up so that
    I can cut/ paste files to the computer
    but it doesn't take and only shows copy.

    I have to move the tab down then back up
    several times before I get it to work after
    inserting it into the computer and the
    cut option appears. This was happening with
    one card so I switched cards but with the
    same result.

    I don't move it back down afterwards yet
    each time I have to go through this and
    these are fairly new cards.

    I have more SD cards but I'm just wondering
    why won't the tab when moved up remove
    the write protect and stay that way?

    I was thinking maybe when I slide it in the
    slot it's pushing the tab downward?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    I used the Startech adaptor and was able to
    cut/paste the files. Maybe I'll use that from
    now on but still doesn't explain why I couldn't
    do it in the first place with the 8500 SD port.

    Robert

    I think that's a good theory to start with, that
    the 8500 port is moving the switch.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Jun 16 07:06:56 2024
    On 5/24/2024 7:05 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I see that YouTube has switched it's layout again
    in favor of the comments on the right side margin

    https://postimg.cc/RqRDBscy

    I don't think this is a test, so is there some way to
    change it back so the comments are below?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    When they change the page format, you'd need to modify
    their code to make it change.

    That is, unless the adjusted dimensions of the window,
    affect how the code displays the page.

    Maybe by resizing the window, it changes ? No guarantees
    of course, because they control everything when they write
    code to do that. It is unlikely they make the elements
    dynamic and have them move around according to
    current dimensions. You can design pages to do that.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Jun 16 07:12:12 2024
    On 5/29/2024 7:57 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    This concerns the 8500,.... I think I had too many screens open
    and the computer hung up,.. then it started to generate a low hum.
    I ended up having to power it off and then waited 30 seconds before
    powering it back on and came up with the usual screen that it did not
    power off correctly and I selected normal start- up but then it gave me
    a screen that said one of my disk's wasn't in sync and it wanted to do a chkdsk so I let it. I have pics if you want to see but the computer came
    back up and all seems OK.


    Robert

    I don't know where the hum would come from.

    For speakers, you'd need to be selecting an audio input
    which has noise on it.

    The hard drive could hum, depending on whether the chassis resonates,
    but it does not normally do that.

    Too many screens open -- the video card has memory for the frame buffer
    and it can also have RAM for compositing. The compositing memory
    requirement is around 128MB or so. As a starting guess. Usually
    the video cards today are larger than that. Compositing, puts the
    windows in front of one another, and works out which parts of which
    window cannot be seen (Z axis priority).

    The way that Windows 10 or Windows 11 works, if you're running
    out of RAM, sometimes the icons on the task bar "dance around", somewhat
    before it crashes or hangs. Windows 7 is unlikely to exhibit the
    same thing.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jun 16 07:46:01 2024
    On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
    On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

         Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

        Paul



    Please respond if you're OK.

    Robert

    I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
    and catch up.

    Paul


    I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
    could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
    medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
    doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
    pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".

    Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jun 16 05:34:08 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
    On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

         Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

        Paul



    Please respond if you're OK.

    Robert

    I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
    and catch up.

    Paul


    I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
    could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
    medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
    doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
    pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".

    Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.

    Paul


    Hmmmmm I kind of thought it was medical related.

    I had something like that some time ago and was sick for
    14 months! It was like the flu or something. My sister told
    me what it was but I forgot the name. I never want to go
    through that again!

    I'm lucky, I served 5 years in the Navy back in the day
    so I have the VA for all my medical needs. They are pretty
    good actually and I only pay for medications. They take care
    of everything except dental.

    As you say it depends on getting good doctors and I also went
    through that. It also depends of getting a good VA location;
    Some are good and some aren't. I also lucked out there and it's
    only 40 minutes away from me.

    Good to have you back,

    stay well

    Robert



    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jul 2 03:09:18 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
    On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

         Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

        Paul



    Please respond if you're OK.

    Robert

    I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
    and catch up.

    Paul


    I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
    could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
    medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
    doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
    pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".

    Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.

    Paul


    I ran the mrimgs and HD-Tune on both computers,. the only thing of note
    is the SD port no longer shows the cut/copy option so I switched to
    using the adapter. Also YouTube switched their comments back again to underneath the videos.

    The computers seem fine and just humming along.....


    780 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/1gG3m41g

    780 HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/yWY8KVQd

    8500 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/sMSVm1Xn

    8500 HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/kRBCbgzv

    Robert




    _





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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Jul 2 22:35:19 2024
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
    On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

          Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

         Paul



    Please respond if you're OK.

    Robert

    I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
    and catch up.

        Paul


    I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
    could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
    medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
    doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
    pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".

    Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.

        Paul


    I ran the mrimgs and HD-Tune on both computers,. the only thing of note
    is the SD port no longer shows the cut/copy option so I switched to
    using the adapter. Also YouTube switched their comments back again to underneath the videos.

    The computers seem fine and just humming along.....


    780 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/1gG3m41g

    780 HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/yWY8KVQd

    8500 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/sMSVm1Xn

    8500 HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/kRBCbgzv

    Robert




    _






    I also noticed that Malwarebytes recently changed
    their screen/format so that now it updates during
    the scan.

    Also, I meant the cut/paste option regarding the
    SD port.

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Jul 6 13:17:47 2024
    On 7/3/2024 1:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
    On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

          Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

         Paul



    Please respond if you're OK.

    Robert

    I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
    and catch up.

        Paul


    I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
    could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
    medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
    doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
    pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".

    Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.

        Paul


    I ran the mrimgs and HD-Tune on both computers,. the only thing of note is the SD port no longer shows the cut/copy option so I switched to using the adapter. Also YouTube switched their comments back again to underneath the videos.

    The computers seem fine and just humming along.....


    780 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/1gG3m41g

    780 HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/yWY8KVQd

    8500 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/sMSVm1Xn

    8500 HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/kRBCbgzv

    Robert




    _






    I also noticed that Malwarebytes recently changed
    their screen/format so that now it updates during
    the scan.

    Also, I meant the cut/paste option regarding the
    SD port.

    Robert


    There appears to be more than one way for an Secure Digital card
    to be write protected.

    https://recoverit.wondershare.com/partition-tips/remove-write-protection-on-sd-cards.html

    Now, I don't believe all of those.

    The one involving the Registry, is "too generic" to be believable.
    The Registry setting would have to be specific for one device to be effective. You cannot run Windows for very long, if all storage devices go
    read-only. Windows must be able to write to C: to survive.
    It will not tolerate being unable to write anywhere.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jul 7 04:38:01 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/3/2024 1:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
    On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

          Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

         Paul



    Please respond if you're OK.

    Robert

    I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
    and catch up.

        Paul


    I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
    could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
    medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
    doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
    pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".

    Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.

        Paul


    I ran the mrimgs and HD-Tune on both computers,. the only thing of note is the SD port no longer shows the cut/copy option so I switched to using the adapter. Also YouTube switched their comments back again to underneath the videos.

    The computers seem fine and just humming along.....


    780 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/1gG3m41g

    780 HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/yWY8KVQd

    8500 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/sMSVm1Xn

    8500 HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/kRBCbgzv

    Robert




    _






    I also noticed that Malwarebytes recently changed
    their screen/format so that now it updates during
    the scan.

    Also, I meant the cut/paste option regarding the
    SD port.

    Robert


    There appears to be more than one way for an Secure Digital card
    to be write protected.

    https://recoverit.wondershare.com/partition-tips/remove-write-protection-on-sd-cards.html

    Now, I don't believe all of those.

    The one involving the Registry, is "too generic" to be believable.
    The Registry setting would have to be specific for one device to be effective.
    You cannot run Windows for very long, if all storage devices go
    read-only. Windows must be able to write to C: to survive.
    It will not tolerate being unable to write anywhere.

    Paul




    Agreed, but allot to read through. It seems its not uncommon for
    SD's to become corrupted? I also noticed that when I use the SD
    card only the computer sometimes doesn't see it but with the adaptor
    it always does. Maybe because it's using a USB port instead?

    Here's my SD card options; the first is with the SD card only,
    you can see if only offers the copy option

    https://postimg.cc/SXKBzdRY

    the second picture is using the SD card with adapter and shows cut
    and copy options. The SD port use to have both options but for some
    reason the cut option no longer appears.

    https://postimg.cc/5jG8c2Lh


    Robert


    _



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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Jul 9 02:48:58 2024
    On 7/7/2024 7:38 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/3/2024 1:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
    On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

           Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

          Paul



    Please respond if you're OK.

    Robert

    I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
    and catch up.

         Paul


    I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
    could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
    medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
    doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
    pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".

    Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.

         Paul


    I ran the mrimgs and HD-Tune on both computers,. the only thing of note is the SD port no longer shows the cut/copy option so I switched to using the adapter. Also YouTube switched their comments back again to underneath the videos.

    The computers seem fine and just humming along.....


    780 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/1gG3m41g

    780 HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/yWY8KVQd

    8500 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/sMSVm1Xn

    8500 HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/kRBCbgzv

    Robert


    I also noticed that Malwarebytes recently changed
    their screen/format so that now it updates during
    the scan.

    Also, I meant the cut/paste option regarding the
    SD port.

    Robert


    There appears to be more than one way for an Secure Digital card
    to be write protected.

        https://recoverit.wondershare.com/partition-tips/remove-write-protection-on-sd-cards.html

    Now, I don't believe all of those.

    The one involving the Registry, is "too generic" to be believable.
    The Registry setting would have to be specific for one device to be effective.
    You cannot run Windows for very long, if all storage devices go
    read-only. Windows must be able to write to C: to survive.
    It will not tolerate being unable to write anywhere.

        Paul


    Agreed, but allot to read through. It seems its not uncommon for
    SD's to become corrupted? I also noticed that when I use the SD
    card only the computer sometimes doesn't see it but with the adaptor
    it always does. Maybe because it's using a USB port instead?

    Here's my SD card options;  the first is with the SD card only,
    you can see if only offers the copy option

    https://postimg.cc/SXKBzdRY

    the second picture is using the SD card with adapter and shows cut
    and copy options. The SD port use to have both options but for some
    reason the cut option no longer appears.

    https://postimg.cc/5jG8c2Lh


    Robert

    And they both say removable disk.

    It could be some sort of registry issue, or, it could
    be a pin not making contact somewhere. But for it to be
    registry, there would need to be a Read-only bit for
    a specific device instance in ENUM or something.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jul 9 00:34:55 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/7/2024 7:38 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/3/2024 1:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
    On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

           Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

          Paul



    Please respond if you're OK.

    Robert

    I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
    and catch up.

         Paul


    I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
    could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
    medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
    doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
    pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".

    Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.

         Paul


    I ran the mrimgs and HD-Tune on both computers,. the only thing of note is the SD port no longer shows the cut/copy option so I switched to using the adapter. Also YouTube switched their comments back again to underneath the videos.

    The computers seem fine and just humming along.....


    780 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/1gG3m41g

    780 HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/yWY8KVQd

    8500 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/sMSVm1Xn

    8500 HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/kRBCbgzv

    Robert


    I also noticed that Malwarebytes recently changed
    their screen/format so that now it updates during
    the scan.

    Also, I meant the cut/paste option regarding the
    SD port.

    Robert


    There appears to be more than one way for an Secure Digital card
    to be write protected.

        https://recoverit.wondershare.com/partition-tips/remove-write-protection-on-sd-cards.html

    Now, I don't believe all of those.

    The one involving the Registry, is "too generic" to be believable.
    The Registry setting would have to be specific for one device to be effective.
    You cannot run Windows for very long, if all storage devices go
    read-only. Windows must be able to write to C: to survive.
    It will not tolerate being unable to write anywhere.

        Paul


    Agreed, but allot to read through. It seems its not uncommon for
    SD's to become corrupted? I also noticed that when I use the SD
    card only the computer sometimes doesn't see it but with the adaptor
    it always does. Maybe because it's using a USB port instead?

    Here's my SD card options;  the first is with the SD card only,
    you can see if only offers the copy option

    https://postimg.cc/SXKBzdRY

    the second picture is using the SD card with adapter and shows cut
    and copy options. The SD port use to have both options but for some
    reason the cut option no longer appears.

    https://postimg.cc/5jG8c2Lh


    Robert

    And they both say removable disk.

    It could be some sort of registry issue, or, it could
    be a pin not making contact somewhere. But for it to be
    registry, there would need to be a Read-only bit for
    a specific device instance in ENUM or something.

    Paul



    Kind of strange though, I thought you might be interested
    but as I say when I use the adapter I have no problem.

    Everything else seems to be fine.


    Robert


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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Jul 10 10:27:09 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/7/2024 7:38 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/3/2024 1:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 6/15/2024 7:53 PM, Paul wrote:
    On 6/11/2024 7:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/4/2024 6:43 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 5/1/2024 8:54 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    In passing, I'm sure you're already aware but
    YouTube has returned to normal. I guess they
    got too many complaints with the comments on
    the side.

    Robert

    Maybe it was just one of those tests of theirs.

           Paul



    Yes, they said they were testing.

    This is unrelated to computers, its my car,..
    the right turn signal started blinking fast
    which I understand means I need to change
    the bulb. Well I changed the bulb but it still
    blinks fast,.. what do you think?

    Robert

    The remaining bulb blinks fast, it's the
    other bulb which is no longer blinking.

    The fast blinking bulb is the good one.

    The fast blinking bulb brings you the news
    that the other bulb in the circuit (at
    the other end of the car) has stopped
    functioning.

    You can do a "walk-around" test on the car,
    put the stalk in left-turn, verify both ends
    of the car, put the stalk in right-turn,
    verify both ends of the car. It should be
    apparent at that point (as long as only one
    bulb has burned out), that something isn't
    right in one corner of the car. And that's where
    your spare bulb will be going.

          Paul



    Please respond if you're OK.

    Robert

    I'm fine. I'll check back later (have errand to run)
    and catch up.

         Paul


    I was sick for a bit, but I don't know what it was. It
    could have been my pre-existing medical condition. The
    medical system here isn't in very good shape, and the
    doctors can be distracted. I have to pick doctors
    pretty carefully now, to avoid "incidents".

    Fixing the medical system here, will not be easy.

         Paul


    I ran the mrimgs and HD-Tune on both computers,. the only thing of note is the SD port no longer shows the cut/copy option so I switched to using the adapter. Also YouTube switched their comments back again to underneath the videos.

    The computers seem fine and just humming along.....


    780 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/1gG3m41g

    780 HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/yWY8KVQd

    8500 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/sMSVm1Xn

    8500 HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/kRBCbgzv

    Robert


    I also noticed that Malwarebytes recently changed
    their screen/format so that now it updates during
    the scan.

    Also, I meant the cut/paste option regarding the
    SD port.

    Robert


    There appears to be more than one way for an Secure Digital card
    to be write protected.

        https://recoverit.wondershare.com/partition-tips/remove-write-protection-on-sd-cards.html

    Now, I don't believe all of those.

    The one involving the Registry, is "too generic" to be believable.
    The Registry setting would have to be specific for one device to be effective.
    You cannot run Windows for very long, if all storage devices go
    read-only. Windows must be able to write to C: to survive.
    It will not tolerate being unable to write anywhere.

        Paul


    Agreed, but allot to read through. It seems its not uncommon for
    SD's to become corrupted? I also noticed that when I use the SD
    card only the computer sometimes doesn't see it but with the adaptor
    it always does. Maybe because it's using a USB port instead?

    Here's my SD card options;  the first is with the SD card only,
    you can see if only offers the copy option

    https://postimg.cc/SXKBzdRY

    the second picture is using the SD card with adapter and shows cut
    and copy options. The SD port use to have both options but for some
    reason the cut option no longer appears.

    https://postimg.cc/5jG8c2Lh


    Robert

    And they both say removable disk.

    It could be some sort of registry issue, or, it could
    be a pin not making contact somewhere. But for it to be
    registry, there would need to be a Read-only bit for
    a specific device instance in ENUM or something.

    Paul



    I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
    under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?

    https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj

    Thanks,
    Robert



    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Jul 14 19:26:48 2024
    On 7/10/2024 1:27 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
    under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?

    https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Aren't those subscription features ?

    Do you have a paid version, or are you just
    using on-demand scanning ?

    Perhaps ticking one of those boxes, will start a
    "how about paying for a subscription" window ???

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jul 15 02:39:28 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/10/2024 1:27 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
    under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?

    https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Aren't those subscription features ?

    Do you have a paid version, or are you just
    using on-demand scanning ?

    Perhaps ticking one of those boxes, will start a
    "how about paying for a subscription" window ???

    Paul





    I'm using the free version.

    So forget about them?

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Jul 16 00:53:43 2024
    On 7/15/2024 5:39 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/10/2024 1:27 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
    under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?

    https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Aren't those subscription features ?

    Do you have a paid version, or are you just
    using on-demand scanning ?

    Perhaps ticking one of those boxes, will start a
    "how about paying for a subscription" window ???


    I'm using the free version.

    So forget about them?

    Robert

    I'm suspicious by nature.

    Such an offering looks like "advertising" :-)

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Jul 17 16:14:31 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/15/2024 5:39 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/10/2024 1:27 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
    under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?

    https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Aren't those subscription features ?

    Do you have a paid version, or are you just
    using on-demand scanning ?

    Perhaps ticking one of those boxes, will start a
    "how about paying for a subscription" window ???


    I'm using the free version.

    So forget about them?

    Robert

    I'm suspicious by nature.

    Such an offering looks like "advertising" :-)

    Paul



    Agreed,

    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Jul 20 11:06:40 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/15/2024 5:39 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/10/2024 1:27 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
    under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?

    https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Aren't those subscription features ?

    Do you have a paid version, or are you just
    using on-demand scanning ?

    Perhaps ticking one of those boxes, will start a
    "how about paying for a subscription" window ???


    I'm using the free version.

    So forget about them?

    Robert

    I'm suspicious by nature.

    Such an offering looks like "advertising" :-)

    Paul



    I wanted to tell you about something that happened
    today because I thought you might be interested.

    I had opened Microsoft Word and started typing but
    no letters appeared. This had happened once before
    so I restarted the computer but the same thing happened.

    So I unplugged the keyboard and put it in a new port
    and it worked. So that one port went bad all on its own ?

    Robert


    _



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jul 30 21:21:05 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/15/2024 5:39 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/10/2024 1:27 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
    under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?

    https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Aren't those subscription features ?

    Do you have a paid version, or are you just
    using on-demand scanning ?

    Perhaps ticking one of those boxes, will start a
    "how about paying for a subscription" window ???


    I'm using the free version.

    So forget about them?

    Robert

    I'm suspicious by nature.

    Such an offering looks like "advertising" :-)

    Paul





    Please respond if you're OK


    Robert

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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Aug 1 03:06:32 2024
    On Sat, 7/20/2024 2:06 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/15/2024 5:39 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/10/2024 1:27 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
    under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?

    https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Aren't those subscription features ?

    Do you have a paid version, or are you just
    using on-demand scanning ?

    Perhaps ticking one of those boxes, will start a
    "how about paying for a subscription" window ???


    I'm using the free version.

    So forget about them?

    Robert

    I'm suspicious by nature.

    Such an offering looks like "advertising" :-)

        Paul



    I wanted to tell you about something that happened
    today because I thought you might be interested.

    I had opened Microsoft Word and started typing but
    no letters appeared. This had happened once before
    so I restarted the computer but the same thing happened.

    So I unplugged the keyboard and put it in a new port
    and it worked. So that one port went bad all on its own ?

    Robert

    This could be a problem with the operating system.

    Normally, USB items have serial numbers, and when you
    move the USB keyboard from one port to another, it uses
    the same data collection in the Registry to control it.

    When items don't have serial numbers, every port has
    a separate enumeration when the device is plugged in.
    This allows the device to "work" on another port.

    It could be there is some problem with the fuse on the port.

    Some hardware faults, really need the power to be turned off.
    This happens when a port goes into latchup.

    USB doesn't have a discrete RESET signal. Neither does
    SATA for that matter, and SATA has its share of problems.
    When a SATA hard drive goes crazy, it may stop responding.
    It can take power removal to guarantee it recovers. Doing
    a reboot is not enough (like if the crazy drive was your backup drive).

    And USB ports do outright die on occasion. Some NEC USB2 cards
    had that problem, and a port or two could be blown.

    Intel USB ports, some of them have been rated for 5kV of ESD.
    Which is pretty good. A chip where nobody particularly cared,
    the rating is 1kV.

    Continue with your testing and see whether the new port
    behaves the same (keyboard dozes off on you). It might even
    be the keyboard that has an electronics problem.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Aug 1 13:08:48 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 7/20/2024 2:06 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/15/2024 5:39 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On 7/10/2024 1:27 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I was checking out the new Malwarebytes and found this
    under other devices. Should I turn any of these on?

    https://postimg.cc/SjP3rpZj

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Aren't those subscription features ?

    Do you have a paid version, or are you just
    using on-demand scanning ?

    Perhaps ticking one of those boxes, will start a
    "how about paying for a subscription" window ???


    I'm using the free version.

    So forget about them?

    Robert

    I'm suspicious by nature.

    Such an offering looks like "advertising" :-)

        Paul



    I wanted to tell you about something that happened
    today because I thought you might be interested.

    I had opened Microsoft Word and started typing but
    no letters appeared. This had happened once before
    so I restarted the computer but the same thing happened.

    So I unplugged the keyboard and put it in a new port
    and it worked. So that one port went bad all on its own ?

    Robert

    This could be a problem with the operating system.

    Normally, USB items have serial numbers, and when you
    move the USB keyboard from one port to another, it uses
    the same data collection in the Registry to control it.

    When items don't have serial numbers, every port has
    a separate enumeration when the device is plugged in.
    This allows the device to "work" on another port.

    It could be there is some problem with the fuse on the port.

    Some hardware faults, really need the power to be turned off.
    This happens when a port goes into latchup.

    USB doesn't have a discrete RESET signal. Neither does
    SATA for that matter, and SATA has its share of problems.
    When a SATA hard drive goes crazy, it may stop responding.
    It can take power removal to guarantee it recovers. Doing
    a reboot is not enough (like if the crazy drive was your backup drive).

    And USB ports do outright die on occasion. Some NEC USB2 cards
    had that problem, and a port or two could be blown.

    Intel USB ports, some of them have been rated for 5kV of ESD.
    Which is pretty good. A chip where nobody particularly cared,
    the rating is 1kV.

    Continue with your testing and see whether the new port
    behaves the same (keyboard dozes off on you). It might even
    be the keyboard that has an electronics problem.

    Paul



    I actually was more concerned about you than the port
    because you usually comment on something like that.

    I actually haven't done any testing or to see if I plugged
    it back in if it would work. I just tried it (with the power on)
    and it works. I know I should have turned off the power first
    and then do it. Sorry, won't happen again.

    I have noticed a certain lag on websites sometimes where it takes
    forever to load a news program or YouTube video and I have
    to refresh it to get it to load. Also to even login sometimes I have
    to click retry several times. I attribute that to the websites.

    Otherwise the computer are OK.

    I still do daily scans and monthly mrimgs.

    Robert

    _


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Aug 2 23:50:15 2024
    On Thu, 8/1/2024 4:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I actually was more concerned about you than the port
    because you usually comment on something like that.

    I actually haven't done any testing or to see if I plugged
    it back in if it would work. I just tried it (with the power on)
    and it works. I know I should have turned off the power first
    and then do it. Sorry, won't happen again.

    I have noticed a certain lag on websites sometimes where it takes
    forever to load a news program or YouTube video and I have
    to refresh it to get it to load. Also to even login sometimes I have
    to click retry several times. I attribute that to the websites.

    Otherwise the computer are OK.

    I still do daily scans and monthly mrimgs.

    Robert

    USB is "power-safe". You can plug and unplug with
    power applied.

    PS/2 is different in this regard.
    PS/2 isn't used as much now (on new computers).

    For USB, you want storage operations to be complete,
    which is why "Safely Remove" exists. A keyboard is
    not a storage device, which is why it should
    not need "Safely Remove".

    *******

    Firefox has multiple processes. When you open extra
    tabs in a window, the tabs can be sharing one Firefox process.
    If you open a new window, that may start yet-more Firefox processes.

    Try opening a new window in Firefox, then open a URL in it.
    Maybe via process isolation, the new process will not be
    influenced by activities in other Firefox windows.

    But with Windows OS, even if you have a ton of CPU cores,
    there is no scaling effect. It can still be slow. It
    is because the machine is not making good usage of
    what you've given it. And it has been like this for a
    while, so I don't expect it will ever change.
    Maybe Firefox uses pthreads. Is pthreads good ? Dunno.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Aug 3 10:22:49 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 8/1/2024 4:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I actually was more concerned about you than the port
    because you usually comment on something like that.

    I actually haven't done any testing or to see if I plugged
    it back in if it would work. I just tried it (with the power on)
    and it works. I know I should have turned off the power first
    and then do it. Sorry, won't happen again.

    I have noticed a certain lag on websites sometimes where it takes
    forever to load a news program or YouTube video and I have
    to refresh it to get it to load. Also to even login sometimes I have
    to click retry several times. I attribute that to the websites.

    Otherwise the computer are OK.

    I still do daily scans and monthly mrimgs.

    Robert

    USB is "power-safe". You can plug and unplug with
    power applied.

    PS/2 is different in this regard.
    PS/2 isn't used as much now (on new computers).

    For USB, you want storage operations to be complete,
    which is why "Safely Remove" exists. A keyboard is
    not a storage device, which is why it should
    not need "Safely Remove".

    *******

    Firefox has multiple processes. When you open extra
    tabs in a window, the tabs can be sharing one Firefox process.
    If you open a new window, that may start yet-more Firefox processes.

    Try opening a new window in Firefox, then open a URL in it.
    Maybe via process isolation, the new process will not be
    influenced by activities in other Firefox windows.

    But with Windows OS, even if you have a ton of CPU cores,
    there is no scaling effect. It can still be slow. It
    is because the machine is not making good usage of
    what you've given it. And it has been like this for a
    while, so I don't expect it will ever change.
    Maybe Firefox uses pthreads. Is pthreads good ? Dunno.

    Paul


    I try to open only what I'm using vs multiple
    applications. I use to leave Word, Paintbrush
    and Dell Imaging all open but not anymore.

    I've been going through allot lately; as an example,
    I've spent an entire week trying to create a new VA
    Account with ID.me as per the VA recommendation
    because the old login is going to be discontinued
    but they still can't verify me because they require
    a cell phone with text and photo capability which I
    don't have.

    btw the VA is one of the worst where I constantly loose
    my connection and have to click retry/resend 2 or 3 times
    just to login. However, whenever I try to login it starts
    the process all over and is asking for information I've
    already given.

    So now I can't login to my account to view appointments,
    order medication and I know I have a message waiting
    because Yahoo notified me.


    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Aug 4 04:32:00 2024
    On Sat, 8/3/2024 1:22 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 8/1/2024 4:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I actually was more concerned about you than the port
    because you usually comment on something like that.

    I actually haven't done any testing or to see if I plugged
    it back in if it would work. I just tried it (with the power on)
    and it works. I know I should have turned off the power first
    and then do it. Sorry, won't happen again.

    I have noticed a certain lag on websites sometimes where it takes
    forever to load a news program or YouTube video and I have
    to refresh it to get it to load. Also to even login sometimes I have
    to click retry several times. I attribute that to the websites.

    Otherwise the computer are OK.

    I still do daily scans and monthly mrimgs.

    Robert

    USB is "power-safe". You can plug and unplug with
    power applied.

    PS/2 is different in this regard.
    PS/2 isn't used as much now (on new computers).

    For USB, you want storage operations to be complete,
    which is why "Safely Remove" exists. A keyboard is
    not a storage device, which is why it should
    not need "Safely Remove".

    *******

    Firefox has multiple processes. When you open extra
    tabs in a window, the tabs can be sharing one Firefox process.
    If you open a new window, that may start yet-more Firefox processes.

    Try opening a new window in Firefox, then open a URL in it.
    Maybe via process isolation, the new process will not be
    influenced by activities in other Firefox windows.

    But with Windows OS, even if you have a ton of CPU cores,
    there is no scaling effect. It can still be slow. It
    is because the machine is not making good usage of
    what you've given it. And it has been like this for a
    while, so I don't expect it will ever change.
    Maybe Firefox uses pthreads. Is pthreads good ? Dunno.

        Paul


    I try to open only what I'm using vs multiple
    applications. I use to leave Word, Paintbrush
    and Dell Imaging all open but not anymore.

    I've been going through allot lately; as an example,
    I've spent an entire week trying to create a new VA
    Account with ID.me as per the VA recommendation
    because the old login is going to be discontinued
    but they still can't verify me because they require
    a cell phone with text and photo capability which I
    don't have.

    btw the VA is one of the worst where I constantly loose
    my connection and have to click retry/resend 2 or 3 times
    just to login. However, whenever I try to login it starts
    the process all over and is asking for information I've
    already given.

    So now I can't login to my account to view appointments,
    order medication and I know I have a message waiting
    because Yahoo notified me.


    Robert

    There is another kind of MFA.

    This is an advertisement for it, from the people who make the
    plugin FIDO2 keys. With the VA, I don't know how easy it will be,
    to get the details necessary to configure that.

    https://fidoalliance.org/u-s-general-services-administrations-rollout-of-fido2-on-login-gov/

    "They are prompted to either insert a hardware security key into their computer
    and touch it or, if their device has a supported built-in authenticator, be prompted
    to use it by looking into the camera or touching a biometric sensor (for two examples)."

    What OS you use, may determine how difficult it is to set up.
    Windows 10 has Windows Hello, which may provide the second
    feature the thing needs.

    It's up to the VA to decide what hardware they want you to use.
    While I located one FIDO2 key with a fingerprint reader built
    in (you touch the fingerprint area, to cause the device to
    send authentication to the VA), that one is out of stock.
    Maybe it is actually an older device. I can't find any more info.

    With FIDO2 keys:

    1) The ones with the cheesy plastic connector, you could fit a
    short extension cable to it. The connector on the short extension
    is intended to take the wear and tear.

    2) You use two FIDO2 keys, and register both of them. You lock up
    the second one. The second one, is for when the first one wears out.

    The various authenticator methods are not all that good, so it's up
    to the VA to decide what the authenticator shall be (Windows Hello facial recognition camera, or a fingerprint button). While you can also use
    a PIN (doesn't have to be digits, can be text), that's not really
    all that good either.

    You can lock up both your FIDO2 devices, just not in the same safe.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Aug 4 02:53:23 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 8/3/2024 1:22 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 8/1/2024 4:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I actually was more concerned about you than the port
    because you usually comment on something like that.

    I actually haven't done any testing or to see if I plugged
    it back in if it would work. I just tried it (with the power on)
    and it works. I know I should have turned off the power first
    and then do it. Sorry, won't happen again.

    I have noticed a certain lag on websites sometimes where it takes
    forever to load a news program or YouTube video and I have
    to refresh it to get it to load. Also to even login sometimes I have
    to click retry several times. I attribute that to the websites.

    Otherwise the computer are OK.

    I still do daily scans and monthly mrimgs.

    Robert

    USB is "power-safe". You can plug and unplug with
    power applied.

    PS/2 is different in this regard.
    PS/2 isn't used as much now (on new computers).

    For USB, you want storage operations to be complete,
    which is why "Safely Remove" exists. A keyboard is
    not a storage device, which is why it should
    not need "Safely Remove".

    *******

    Firefox has multiple processes. When you open extra
    tabs in a window, the tabs can be sharing one Firefox process.
    If you open a new window, that may start yet-more Firefox processes.

    Try opening a new window in Firefox, then open a URL in it.
    Maybe via process isolation, the new process will not be
    influenced by activities in other Firefox windows.

    But with Windows OS, even if you have a ton of CPU cores,
    there is no scaling effect. It can still be slow. It
    is because the machine is not making good usage of
    what you've given it. And it has been like this for a
    while, so I don't expect it will ever change.
    Maybe Firefox uses pthreads. Is pthreads good ? Dunno.

        Paul


    I try to open only what I'm using vs multiple
    applications. I use to leave Word, Paintbrush
    and Dell Imaging all open but not anymore.

    I've been going through allot lately; as an example,
    I've spent an entire week trying to create a new VA
    Account with ID.me as per the VA recommendation
    because the old login is going to be discontinued
    but they still can't verify me because they require
    a cell phone with text and photo capability which I
    don't have.

    btw the VA is one of the worst where I constantly loose
    my connection and have to click retry/resend 2 or 3 times
    just to login. However, whenever I try to login it starts
    the process all over and is asking for information I've
    already given.

    So now I can't login to my account to view appointments,
    order medication and I know I have a message waiting
    because Yahoo notified me.


    Robert

    There is another kind of MFA.

    This is an advertisement for it, from the people who make the
    plugin FIDO2 keys. With the VA, I don't know how easy it will be,
    to get the details necessary to configure that.

    https://fidoalliance.org/u-s-general-services-administrations-rollout-of-fido2-on-login-gov/

    "They are prompted to either insert a hardware security key into their computer
    and touch it or, if their device has a supported built-in authenticator, be prompted
    to use it by looking into the camera or touching a biometric sensor (for two examples)."

    What OS you use, may determine how difficult it is to set up.
    Windows 10 has Windows Hello, which may provide the second
    feature the thing needs.

    It's up to the VA to decide what hardware they want you to use.
    While I located one FIDO2 key with a fingerprint reader built
    in (you touch the fingerprint area, to cause the device to
    send authentication to the VA), that one is out of stock.
    Maybe it is actually an older device. I can't find any more info.

    With FIDO2 keys:

    1) The ones with the cheesy plastic connector, you could fit a
    short extension cable to it. The connector on the short extension
    is intended to take the wear and tear.

    2) You use two FIDO2 keys, and register both of them. You lock up
    the second one. The second one, is for when the first one wears out.

    The various authenticator methods are not all that good, so it's up
    to the VA to decide what the authenticator shall be (Windows Hello facial recognition camera, or a fingerprint button). While you can also use
    a PIN (doesn't have to be digits, can be text), that's not really
    all that good either.

    You can lock up both your FIDO2 devices, just not in the same safe.

    Paul



    Previously, during this process when I logged in I had
    to select text or phone. I selected phone and it gave
    me a call with a password/code number. Then it changed
    all on it's own so instead of giving me a code number it's
    asking for my drivers license again.

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Aug 4 02:34:16 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 8/3/2024 1:22 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 8/1/2024 4:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I actually was more concerned about you than the port
    because you usually comment on something like that.

    I actually haven't done any testing or to see if I plugged
    it back in if it would work. I just tried it (with the power on)
    and it works. I know I should have turned off the power first
    and then do it. Sorry, won't happen again.

    I have noticed a certain lag on websites sometimes where it takes
    forever to load a news program or YouTube video and I have
    to refresh it to get it to load. Also to even login sometimes I have
    to click retry several times. I attribute that to the websites.

    Otherwise the computer are OK.

    I still do daily scans and monthly mrimgs.

    Robert

    USB is "power-safe". You can plug and unplug with
    power applied.

    PS/2 is different in this regard.
    PS/2 isn't used as much now (on new computers).

    For USB, you want storage operations to be complete,
    which is why "Safely Remove" exists. A keyboard is
    not a storage device, which is why it should
    not need "Safely Remove".

    *******

    Firefox has multiple processes. When you open extra
    tabs in a window, the tabs can be sharing one Firefox process.
    If you open a new window, that may start yet-more Firefox processes.

    Try opening a new window in Firefox, then open a URL in it.
    Maybe via process isolation, the new process will not be
    influenced by activities in other Firefox windows.

    But with Windows OS, even if you have a ton of CPU cores,
    there is no scaling effect. It can still be slow. It
    is because the machine is not making good usage of
    what you've given it. And it has been like this for a
    while, so I don't expect it will ever change.
    Maybe Firefox uses pthreads. Is pthreads good ? Dunno.

        Paul


    I try to open only what I'm using vs multiple
    applications. I use to leave Word, Paintbrush
    and Dell Imaging all open but not anymore.

    I've been going through allot lately; as an example,
    I've spent an entire week trying to create a new VA
    Account with ID.me as per the VA recommendation
    because the old login is going to be discontinued
    but they still can't verify me because they require
    a cell phone with text and photo capability which I
    don't have.

    btw the VA is one of the worst where I constantly loose
    my connection and have to click retry/resend 2 or 3 times
    just to login. However, whenever I try to login it starts
    the process all over and is asking for information I've
    already given.

    So now I can't login to my account to view appointments,
    order medication and I know I have a message waiting
    because Yahoo notified me.


    Robert

    There is another kind of MFA.

    This is an advertisement for it, from the people who make the
    plugin FIDO2 keys. With the VA, I don't know how easy it will be,
    to get the details necessary to configure that.

    https://fidoalliance.org/u-s-general-services-administrations-rollout-of-fido2-on-login-gov/

    "They are prompted to either insert a hardware security key into their computer
    and touch it or, if their device has a supported built-in authenticator, be prompted
    to use it by looking into the camera or touching a biometric sensor (for two examples)."

    What OS you use, may determine how difficult it is to set up.
    Windows 10 has Windows Hello, which may provide the second
    feature the thing needs.

    It's up to the VA to decide what hardware they want you to use.
    While I located one FIDO2 key with a fingerprint reader built
    in (you touch the fingerprint area, to cause the device to
    send authentication to the VA), that one is out of stock.
    Maybe it is actually an older device. I can't find any more info.

    With FIDO2 keys:

    1) The ones with the cheesy plastic connector, you could fit a
    short extension cable to it. The connector on the short extension
    is intended to take the wear and tear.

    2) You use two FIDO2 keys, and register both of them. You lock up
    the second one. The second one, is for when the first one wears out.

    The various authenticator methods are not all that good, so it's up
    to the VA to decide what the authenticator shall be (Windows Hello facial recognition camera, or a fingerprint button). While you can also use
    a PIN (doesn't have to be digits, can be text), that's not really
    all that good either.

    You can lock up both your FIDO2 devices, just not in the same safe.

    Paul



    The VA mentioned some of the devices initially but with no explanation
    and to be honest I didn't understand any of them. The only one available
    to me that I understood was the phone and even then it has to be a cell
    phone with text and photo capability.

    I've already given
    1. a photo of my drivers license front/back
    2. SSN
    3. email
    4. phone number
    5. address

    and still that's not enough,... and they said this is supposed to be
    simpler?

    It's really out of my hands because its in a loop. Every time I try to
    login in
    it starts the process all over by asking for my drivers license. I was
    told not
    to create another account because then they would have two accounts with
    the same information.

    So now I'm effectively locked out of the VA.

    I was going to go to the VA on Tuesday and talk with someone about this
    or the Patient Advocate but my car overheated yesterday and I have to call Monday to see if they will even take it(1990) to be fixed. I think it
    has a blown
    head gasket.


    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Aug 4 03:46:41 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 8/3/2024 1:22 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 8/1/2024 4:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I actually was more concerned about you than the port
    because you usually comment on something like that.

    I actually haven't done any testing or to see if I plugged
    it back in if it would work. I just tried it (with the power on)
    and it works. I know I should have turned off the power first
    and then do it. Sorry, won't happen again.

    I have noticed a certain lag on websites sometimes where it takes
    forever to load a news program or YouTube video and I have
    to refresh it to get it to load. Also to even login sometimes I have
    to click retry several times. I attribute that to the websites.

    Otherwise the computer are OK.

    I still do daily scans and monthly mrimgs.

    Robert

    USB is "power-safe". You can plug and unplug with
    power applied.

    PS/2 is different in this regard.
    PS/2 isn't used as much now (on new computers).

    For USB, you want storage operations to be complete,
    which is why "Safely Remove" exists. A keyboard is
    not a storage device, which is why it should
    not need "Safely Remove".

    *******

    Firefox has multiple processes. When you open extra
    tabs in a window, the tabs can be sharing one Firefox process.
    If you open a new window, that may start yet-more Firefox processes.

    Try opening a new window in Firefox, then open a URL in it.
    Maybe via process isolation, the new process will not be
    influenced by activities in other Firefox windows.

    But with Windows OS, even if you have a ton of CPU cores,
    there is no scaling effect. It can still be slow. It
    is because the machine is not making good usage of
    what you've given it. And it has been like this for a
    while, so I don't expect it will ever change.
    Maybe Firefox uses pthreads. Is pthreads good ? Dunno.

        Paul


    I try to open only what I'm using vs multiple
    applications. I use to leave Word, Paintbrush
    and Dell Imaging all open but not anymore.

    I've been going through allot lately; as an example,
    I've spent an entire week trying to create a new VA
    Account with ID.me as per the VA recommendation
    because the old login is going to be discontinued
    but they still can't verify me because they require
    a cell phone with text and photo capability which I
    don't have.

    btw the VA is one of the worst where I constantly loose
    my connection and have to click retry/resend 2 or 3 times
    just to login. However, whenever I try to login it starts
    the process all over and is asking for information I've
    already given.

    So now I can't login to my account to view appointments,
    order medication and I know I have a message waiting
    because Yahoo notified me.


    Robert

    There is another kind of MFA.

    This is an advertisement for it, from the people who make the
    plugin FIDO2 keys. With the VA, I don't know how easy it will be,
    to get the details necessary to configure that.

    https://fidoalliance.org/u-s-general-services-administrations-rollout-of-fido2-on-login-gov/

    "They are prompted to either insert a hardware security key into their computer
    and touch it or, if their device has a supported built-in authenticator, be prompted
    to use it by looking into the camera or touching a biometric sensor (for two examples)."

    What OS you use, may determine how difficult it is to set up.
    Windows 10 has Windows Hello, which may provide the second
    feature the thing needs.

    It's up to the VA to decide what hardware they want you to use.
    While I located one FIDO2 key with a fingerprint reader built
    in (you touch the fingerprint area, to cause the device to
    send authentication to the VA), that one is out of stock.
    Maybe it is actually an older device. I can't find any more info.

    With FIDO2 keys:

    1) The ones with the cheesy plastic connector, you could fit a
    short extension cable to it. The connector on the short extension
    is intended to take the wear and tear.

    2) You use two FIDO2 keys, and register both of them. You lock up
    the second one. The second one, is for when the first one wears out.

    The various authenticator methods are not all that good, so it's up
    to the VA to decide what the authenticator shall be (Windows Hello facial recognition camera, or a fingerprint button). While you can also use
    a PIN (doesn't have to be digits, can be text), that's not really
    all that good either.

    You can lock up both your FIDO2 devices, just not in the same safe.

    Paul



    I went back and looked at the options they gave... I should of selected Security Key ,. then would probably have to download some application
    from them. Would I still be able to check it with scans?

    https://postimg.cc/BL4nGZVT

    Anyways, I'm going to suggest it to the ID.me guy I'm in contact with.

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Aug 5 14:34:52 2024
    On Sun, 8/4/2024 6:46 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I went back and looked at the options they gave... I should of selected Security Key ,. then would probably have to download some application
    from them. Would I still be able to check it with scans?

    https://postimg.cc/BL4nGZVT

    Anyways, I'm going to suggest it to the ID.me guy I'm in contact with.

    Robert

    Anything that involves computers, is going to be like this.
    You've likely figured this out by now. A self-perpetuating
    loop. It's just the size of the loop that varies :-/

    I have a vague sense of some of it, but the analysis of "actual security",
    like how much better is it than a phish-able phone setup, that I don't
    know. The security key can be stolen from you, but the authentication
    method should be harder to steal.

    And the articles Microsoft writes on this are not that helpful.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/device-experiences/windows-hello-face-authentication

    The cameras seven or eight years ago, were "structured light" cameras.
    One of the facial recognition features, was illuminating your face
    with infrared light, which is a bit more independent of ambient
    light conditions. But if I Google the topic, there are people who
    have problems with their hardware and the drivers for it. Stuff
    that used to work, that stopped working.

    Fingerprint readers have been around for a longer time, but
    unless the OS has a framework for them, there could still be
    reasons they don't work.

    That's why you want someone to help you, who knows of "approved"
    or even "tested" setups that work.

    But the FIDO2 key, that part is simpler. The recognition there,
    part of it is at the VA end, actually accepting input from
    a FIDO2 key. It's less likely to be a USB hub failure on the
    local computer end.

    Fingerprint readers apparently vary in some anti-spoofing
    features they have added.

    It's the authentication bit that leaves a lot to be desired.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Aug 6 11:36:47 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 8/4/2024 6:46 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I went back and looked at the options they gave... I should of selected
    Security Key ,. then would probably have to download some application
    from them. Would I still be able to check it with scans?

    https://postimg.cc/BL4nGZVT

    Anyways, I'm going to suggest it to the ID.me guy I'm in contact with.

    Robert

    Anything that involves computers, is going to be like this.
    You've likely figured this out by now. A self-perpetuating
    loop. It's just the size of the loop that varies :-/

    I have a vague sense of some of it, but the analysis of "actual security", like how much better is it than a phish-able phone setup, that I don't
    know. The security key can be stolen from you, but the authentication
    method should be harder to steal.

    And the articles Microsoft writes on this are not that helpful.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/device-experiences/windows-hello-face-authentication

    The cameras seven or eight years ago, were "structured light" cameras.
    One of the facial recognition features, was illuminating your face
    with infrared light, which is a bit more independent of ambient
    light conditions. But if I Google the topic, there are people who
    have problems with their hardware and the drivers for it. Stuff
    that used to work, that stopped working.

    Fingerprint readers have been around for a longer time, but
    unless the OS has a framework for them, there could still be
    reasons they don't work.

    That's why you want someone to help you, who knows of "approved"
    or even "tested" setups that work.

    But the FIDO2 key, that part is simpler. The recognition there,
    part of it is at the VA end, actually accepting input from
    a FIDO2 key. It's less likely to be a USB hub failure on the
    local computer end.

    Fingerprint readers apparently vary in some anti-spoofing
    features they have added.

    It's the authentication bit that leaves a lot to be desired.

    Paul



    Agreed , its their end that has the problems... this was supposed to be
    simpler
    but has messed everything up and I've lost my online connection to the VA.

    I'm not sure about the FIDO2 is that something I download from them? I
    had suggested using the Security Key as my MFA and the rep responded I
    could add another MFA option if I wanted but they still do not have a
    photo of me. I told him I had given a photo of my drivers license front
    and back and it was accepted.

    I've tried an entire week to get verified by ID.me and their rep just
    referred me to a VA site. I called the VA and said they could do nothing
    and referred me back to ID.me
    See what I mean?

    Whenever I try and login it asks for the same information I've already
    given. I tried calling the VA HeatheVet rep but they are never there and
    their mailbox is full. I tried calling the VA Patients Advocate and the
    same thing. The ID.me rep is of no help at all. I suggested we delete
    the account and start over and its like he didn't see it.

    So once I get my car repaired... I'll go to the VA and try and
    straighten this out.

    Thanks
    R:)


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Aug 6 15:30:51 2024
    On Tue, 8/6/2024 2:36 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 8/4/2024 6:46 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I went back and looked at the options they gave... I should of selected
    Security Key ,. then would probably have to download some application
    from them. Would I still be able to check it with scans?

    https://postimg.cc/BL4nGZVT

    Anyways, I'm going to suggest it to the ID.me guy I'm in contact with.

    Robert

    Anything that involves computers, is going to be like this.
    You've likely figured this out by now. A self-perpetuating
    loop. It's just the size of the loop that varies :-/

    I have a vague sense of some of it, but the analysis of "actual security", >> like how much better is it than a phish-able phone setup, that I don't
    know. The security key can be stolen from you, but the authentication
    method should be harder to steal.

    And the articles Microsoft writes on this are not that helpful.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/device-experiences/windows-hello-face-authentication

    The cameras seven or eight years ago, were "structured light" cameras.
    One of the facial recognition features, was illuminating your face
    with infrared light, which is a bit more independent of ambient
    light conditions. But if I Google the topic, there are people who
    have problems with their hardware and the drivers for it. Stuff
    that used to work, that stopped working.

    Fingerprint readers have been around for a longer time, but
    unless the OS has a framework for them, there could still be
    reasons they don't work.

    That's why you want someone to help you, who knows of "approved"
    or even "tested" setups that work.

    But the FIDO2 key, that part is simpler. The recognition there,
    part of it is at the VA end, actually accepting input from
    a FIDO2 key. It's less likely to be a USB hub failure on the
    local computer end.

    Fingerprint readers apparently vary in some anti-spoofing
    features they have added.

    It's the authentication bit that leaves a lot to be desired.

        Paul



    Agreed , its their end that has the problems... this was supposed to be simpler
    but has messed everything up and I've lost my online connection to the VA.

    I'm not sure about the FIDO2 is that something I download from them? I had suggested using the Security Key as my MFA and the rep responded I could add another MFA option if I wanted but they still do not have a photo of me. I told him I had given a
    photo of my drivers license front and back and it was accepted.

    I've tried an entire week to get verified by ID.me and their rep just referred me to a VA site. I called the VA and said they could do nothing and  referred me back to ID.me
    See what I mean?

    Whenever I try and login it asks for the same information I've already given. I tried calling the VA HeatheVet rep but they are never there and their mailbox is full. I tried calling the VA Patients Advocate and the same thing. The ID.me rep is of no
    help at all. I suggested we delete the account and start over and its like he didn't see it.

    So once I get my car repaired... I'll go to the VA and try and straighten this out.

    Thanks
    R:)

    Just for the record, this one, the button on it is the "Transmit" button.
    The button is effectively a "clicker". There are different brands of these, implementing the FIDO2 standard. Similar to how TPM chips on computers, implement a standard, even though there are different brands, and those
    secure the boot process. This can be used for any number of things.
    It's possible Gmail can be set up with one of these.

    https://www.amazon.ca/FIDO-Security-TrustKey-FIDO2-Fingerprint/dp/B086QTS5YM

    The fingerprint ones, are generally a more uniform surface of some sort
    of material. One I saw, even looked "optical" and had a transparent section. It's about double the price of the other one.

    https://www.amazon.com/Fingerprint-Thetis-Authentication-Protection-SalesForce/dp/B0821TDLP4

    And the device manufacturers recommend two of those, so if one stops working, you still have the second working one, until you can get yet another
    device enrolled.

    I had a device for work a long time ago, and it's a nuisance because
    of the "quirks" these devices have. You could go to use one, and
    it could stop working. Whereas, your keyboard is pretty reliable
    and you can tell when the keys are worn out and take precautions in
    time. The security devices can have more than one failure mode
    (such as the VA server getting wiped out, and not being ready and
    able to accept authentication packets). And then you don't know
    where to start. The device I used, needed to be resynchronized
    several times, which is painless, but you have to visit the correct
    person at work to get it done. These FIDO2 devices are not temporal,
    so that kind of quirk is not present. The device I had, was
    constantly powered. And, no battery bay either. I think I was
    using that in the dialup era, before ADSL.

    In my case then, I was "fully supported". There was an IT department.
    The password person in my building, could handle the security device.
    Whereas in your situation, it's the modern shitty "self-serve" model,
    which is fine for things that work, not so fine for high tech things.
    Keeping a GMail account working, is an example of the shitty "self-serve" model.
    It's great for the smartphone people, who can SMS from dawn till dusk.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Aug 6 22:23:55 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 8/6/2024 2:36 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 8/4/2024 6:46 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I went back and looked at the options they gave... I should of selected >>>> Security Key ,. then would probably have to download some application
    from them. Would I still be able to check it with scans?

    https://postimg.cc/BL4nGZVT

    Anyways, I'm going to suggest it to the ID.me guy I'm in contact with. >>>>
    Robert

    Anything that involves computers, is going to be like this.
    You've likely figured this out by now. A self-perpetuating
    loop. It's just the size of the loop that varies :-/

    I have a vague sense of some of it, but the analysis of "actual security", >>> like how much better is it than a phish-able phone setup, that I don't
    know. The security key can be stolen from you, but the authentication
    method should be harder to steal.

    And the articles Microsoft writes on this are not that helpful.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/device-experiences/windows-hello-face-authentication

    The cameras seven or eight years ago, were "structured light" cameras.
    One of the facial recognition features, was illuminating your face
    with infrared light, which is a bit more independent of ambient
    light conditions. But if I Google the topic, there are people who
    have problems with their hardware and the drivers for it. Stuff
    that used to work, that stopped working.

    Fingerprint readers have been around for a longer time, but
    unless the OS has a framework for them, there could still be
    reasons they don't work.

    That's why you want someone to help you, who knows of "approved"
    or even "tested" setups that work.

    But the FIDO2 key, that part is simpler. The recognition there,
    part of it is at the VA end, actually accepting input from
    a FIDO2 key. It's less likely to be a USB hub failure on the
    local computer end.

    Fingerprint readers apparently vary in some anti-spoofing
    features they have added.

    It's the authentication bit that leaves a lot to be desired.

        Paul



    Agreed , its their end that has the problems... this was supposed to be simpler
    but has messed everything up and I've lost my online connection to the VA. >>
    I'm not sure about the FIDO2 is that something I download from them? I had suggested using the Security Key as my MFA and the rep responded I could add another MFA option if I wanted but they still do not have a photo of me. I told him I had given a
    photo of my drivers license front and back and it was accepted.

    I've tried an entire week to get verified by ID.me and their rep just referred me to a VA site. I called the VA and said they could do nothing and  referred me back to ID.me
    See what I mean?

    Whenever I try and login it asks for the same information I've already given. I tried calling the VA HeatheVet rep but they are never there and their mailbox is full. I tried calling the VA Patients Advocate and the same thing. The ID.me rep is of no
    help at all. I suggested we delete the account and start over and its like he didn't see it.

    So once I get my car repaired... I'll go to the VA and try and straighten this out.

    Thanks
    R:)

    Just for the record, this one, the button on it is the "Transmit" button.
    The button is effectively a "clicker". There are different brands of these, implementing the FIDO2 standard. Similar to how TPM chips on computers, implement a standard, even though there are different brands, and those secure the boot process. This can be used for any number of things.
    It's possible Gmail can be set up with one of these.

    https://www.amazon.ca/FIDO-Security-TrustKey-FIDO2-Fingerprint/dp/B086QTS5YM

    The fingerprint ones, are generally a more uniform surface of some sort
    of material. One I saw, even looked "optical" and had a transparent section. It's about double the price of the other one.

    https://www.amazon.com/Fingerprint-Thetis-Authentication-Protection-SalesForce/dp/B0821TDLP4

    And the device manufacturers recommend two of those, so if one stops working, you still have the second working one, until you can get yet another
    device enrolled.

    I had a device for work a long time ago, and it's a nuisance because
    of the "quirks" these devices have. You could go to use one, and
    it could stop working. Whereas, your keyboard is pretty reliable
    and you can tell when the keys are worn out and take precautions in
    time. The security devices can have more than one failure mode
    (such as the VA server getting wiped out, and not being ready and
    able to accept authentication packets). And then you don't know
    where to start. The device I used, needed to be resynchronized
    several times, which is painless, but you have to visit the correct
    person at work to get it done. These FIDO2 devices are not temporal,
    so that kind of quirk is not present. The device I had, was
    constantly powered. And, no battery bay either. I think I was
    using that in the dialup era, before ADSL.

    In my case then, I was "fully supported". There was an IT department.
    The password person in my building, could handle the security device.
    Whereas in your situation, it's the modern shitty "self-serve" model,
    which is fine for things that work, not so fine for high tech things.
    Keeping a GMail account working, is an example of the shitty "self-serve" model.
    It's great for the smartphone people, who can SMS from dawn till dusk.

    Paul






    Hmmmm I kinda of thought it was going to come to me buying something
    for this. Maybe I can get the VA to cough up a free one if they are
    going to
    push this on us. I bookmarked both devices just in case and you suggest
    I buy
    (2).

    I'll try calling the VA again and see if I can get in touch with the
    HealtheVet
    rep or the Patient Advocate to try and work this out. If I can't get in
    touch with
    either once I get my car fixed I'll drive to the VA and see if I can
    straighten it
    out. The thermostat stuck and it overheated so were replacing the
    thermostat
    and all the hoses and radiator. At least I hope that's all.....

    This was the ID.me reps reply when I asked to delete my account because
    I cannot sign-in. If I could sign-in there wouldn't be a problem.

    Robert


    Hello Robert,

    Thank you for reaching out and I apologize for the frustration this has
    caused you. To delete your account please follow the steps below.

    1. Go to ID.me My Account and sign in.
    2. Navigate to the Sign In & Security page and select Privacy.
    3. From the My Data Rights section, under Manage my data, select Remove
    my data, then Close my account.
    4. Select Continue.
    5. Select a reason for closing your account from the menu, then select Yes, close my account.

    Once you have completed these steps, your ID.me account will permanently
    close.

    If you have any questions, reply to this email and I’ll get you the help
    you need.










    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Aug 7 08:14:11 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 8/6/2024 2:36 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 8/4/2024 6:46 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I went back and looked at the options they gave... I should of selected >>>> Security Key ,. then would probably have to download some application
    from them. Would I still be able to check it with scans?

    https://postimg.cc/BL4nGZVT

    Anyways, I'm going to suggest it to the ID.me guy I'm in contact with. >>>>
    Robert

    Anything that involves computers, is going to be like this.
    You've likely figured this out by now. A self-perpetuating
    loop. It's just the size of the loop that varies :-/

    I have a vague sense of some of it, but the analysis of "actual security", >>> like how much better is it than a phish-able phone setup, that I don't
    know. The security key can be stolen from you, but the authentication
    method should be harder to steal.

    And the articles Microsoft writes on this are not that helpful.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/device-experiences/windows-hello-face-authentication

    The cameras seven or eight years ago, were "structured light" cameras.
    One of the facial recognition features, was illuminating your face
    with infrared light, which is a bit more independent of ambient
    light conditions. But if I Google the topic, there are people who
    have problems with their hardware and the drivers for it. Stuff
    that used to work, that stopped working.

    Fingerprint readers have been around for a longer time, but
    unless the OS has a framework for them, there could still be
    reasons they don't work.

    That's why you want someone to help you, who knows of "approved"
    or even "tested" setups that work.

    But the FIDO2 key, that part is simpler. The recognition there,
    part of it is at the VA end, actually accepting input from
    a FIDO2 key. It's less likely to be a USB hub failure on the
    local computer end.

    Fingerprint readers apparently vary in some anti-spoofing
    features they have added.

    It's the authentication bit that leaves a lot to be desired.

        Paul



    Agreed , its their end that has the problems... this was supposed to be simpler
    but has messed everything up and I've lost my online connection to the VA. >>
    I'm not sure about the FIDO2 is that something I download from them? I had suggested using the Security Key as my MFA and the rep responded I could add another MFA option if I wanted but they still do not have a photo of me. I told him I had given a
    photo of my drivers license front and back and it was accepted.

    I've tried an entire week to get verified by ID.me and their rep just referred me to a VA site. I called the VA and said they could do nothing and  referred me back to ID.me
    See what I mean?

    Whenever I try and login it asks for the same information I've already given. I tried calling the VA HeatheVet rep but they are never there and their mailbox is full. I tried calling the VA Patients Advocate and the same thing. The ID.me rep is of no
    help at all. I suggested we delete the account and start over and its like he didn't see it.

    So once I get my car repaired... I'll go to the VA and try and straighten this out.

    Thanks
    R:)

    Just for the record, this one, the button on it is the "Transmit" button.
    The button is effectively a "clicker". There are different brands of these, implementing the FIDO2 standard. Similar to how TPM chips on computers, implement a standard, even though there are different brands, and those secure the boot process. This can be used for any number of things.
    It's possible Gmail can be set up with one of these.

    https://www.amazon.ca/FIDO-Security-TrustKey-FIDO2-Fingerprint/dp/B086QTS5YM

    The fingerprint ones, are generally a more uniform surface of some sort
    of material. One I saw, even looked "optical" and had a transparent section. It's about double the price of the other one.

    https://www.amazon.com/Fingerprint-Thetis-Authentication-Protection-SalesForce/dp/B0821TDLP4

    And the device manufacturers recommend two of those, so if one stops working, you still have the second working one, until you can get yet another
    device enrolled.

    I had a device for work a long time ago, and it's a nuisance because
    of the "quirks" these devices have. You could go to use one, and
    it could stop working. Whereas, your keyboard is pretty reliable
    and you can tell when the keys are worn out and take precautions in
    time. The security devices can have more than one failure mode
    (such as the VA server getting wiped out, and not being ready and
    able to accept authentication packets). And then you don't know
    where to start. The device I used, needed to be resynchronized
    several times, which is painless, but you have to visit the correct
    person at work to get it done. These FIDO2 devices are not temporal,
    so that kind of quirk is not present. The device I had, was
    constantly powered. And, no battery bay either. I think I was
    using that in the dialup era, before ADSL.

    In my case then, I was "fully supported". There was an IT department.
    The password person in my building, could handle the security device.
    Whereas in your situation, it's the modern shitty "self-serve" model,
    which is fine for things that work, not so fine for high tech things.
    Keeping a GMail account working, is an example of the shitty "self-serve" model.
    It's great for the smartphone people, who can SMS from dawn till dusk.

    Paul






    p.s. and water pump

    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Aug 7 11:18:44 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 8/6/2024 2:36 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 8/4/2024 6:46 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I went back and looked at the options they gave... I should of selected >>>> Security Key ,. then would probably have to download some application
    from them. Would I still be able to check it with scans?

    https://postimg.cc/BL4nGZVT

    Anyways, I'm going to suggest it to the ID.me guy I'm in contact with. >>>>
    Robert

    Anything that involves computers, is going to be like this.
    You've likely figured this out by now. A self-perpetuating
    loop. It's just the size of the loop that varies :-/

    I have a vague sense of some of it, but the analysis of "actual security", >>> like how much better is it than a phish-able phone setup, that I don't
    know. The security key can be stolen from you, but the authentication
    method should be harder to steal.

    And the articles Microsoft writes on this are not that helpful.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/device-experiences/windows-hello-face-authentication

    The cameras seven or eight years ago, were "structured light" cameras.
    One of the facial recognition features, was illuminating your face
    with infrared light, which is a bit more independent of ambient
    light conditions. But if I Google the topic, there are people who
    have problems with their hardware and the drivers for it. Stuff
    that used to work, that stopped working.

    Fingerprint readers have been around for a longer time, but
    unless the OS has a framework for them, there could still be
    reasons they don't work.

    That's why you want someone to help you, who knows of "approved"
    or even "tested" setups that work.

    But the FIDO2 key, that part is simpler. The recognition there,
    part of it is at the VA end, actually accepting input from
    a FIDO2 key. It's less likely to be a USB hub failure on the
    local computer end.

    Fingerprint readers apparently vary in some anti-spoofing
    features they have added.

    It's the authentication bit that leaves a lot to be desired.

        Paul



    Agreed , its their end that has the problems... this was supposed to be simpler
    but has messed everything up and I've lost my online connection to the VA. >>
    I'm not sure about the FIDO2 is that something I download from them? I had suggested using the Security Key as my MFA and the rep responded I could add another MFA option if I wanted but they still do not have a photo of me. I told him I had given a
    photo of my drivers license front and back and it was accepted.

    I've tried an entire week to get verified by ID.me and their rep just referred me to a VA site. I called the VA and said they could do nothing and  referred me back to ID.me
    See what I mean?

    Whenever I try and login it asks for the same information I've already given. I tried calling the VA HeatheVet rep but they are never there and their mailbox is full. I tried calling the VA Patients Advocate and the same thing. The ID.me rep is of no
    help at all. I suggested we delete the account and start over and its like he didn't see it.

    So once I get my car repaired... I'll go to the VA and try and straighten this out.

    Thanks
    R:)

    Just for the record, this one, the button on it is the "Transmit" button.
    The button is effectively a "clicker". There are different brands of these, implementing the FIDO2 standard. Similar to how TPM chips on computers, implement a standard, even though there are different brands, and those secure the boot process. This can be used for any number of things.
    It's possible Gmail can be set up with one of these.

    https://www.amazon.ca/FIDO-Security-TrustKey-FIDO2-Fingerprint/dp/B086QTS5YM

    The fingerprint ones, are generally a more uniform surface of some sort
    of material. One I saw, even looked "optical" and had a transparent section. It's about double the price of the other one.

    https://www.amazon.com/Fingerprint-Thetis-Authentication-Protection-SalesForce/dp/B0821TDLP4

    And the device manufacturers recommend two of those, so if one stops working, you still have the second working one, until you can get yet another
    device enrolled.

    I had a device for work a long time ago, and it's a nuisance because
    of the "quirks" these devices have. You could go to use one, and
    it could stop working. Whereas, your keyboard is pretty reliable
    and you can tell when the keys are worn out and take precautions in
    time. The security devices can have more than one failure mode
    (such as the VA server getting wiped out, and not being ready and
    able to accept authentication packets). And then you don't know
    where to start. The device I used, needed to be resynchronized
    several times, which is painless, but you have to visit the correct
    person at work to get it done. These FIDO2 devices are not temporal,
    so that kind of quirk is not present. The device I had, was
    constantly powered. And, no battery bay either. I think I was
    using that in the dialup era, before ADSL.

    In my case then, I was "fully supported". There was an IT department.
    The password person in my building, could handle the security device.
    Whereas in your situation, it's the modern shitty "self-serve" model,
    which is fine for things that work, not so fine for high tech things.
    Keeping a GMail account working, is an example of the shitty "self-serve" model.
    It's great for the smartphone people, who can SMS from dawn till dusk.

    Paul





    I replied to the rep that I could not complete his
    instructions because I couldn't sign-in. If I could
    then I wouldn't have a problem.

    He requested a photo I.D. so they could verify it
    was me and then will delete my account. So I sent
    them a photo of my drivers license front and back
    then I informed him that I did so, as instructed.

    I just wonder whether I'll be able to login as before
    or will it still be all messed up?

    Robert



    _



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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Aug 8 08:47:56 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 8/6/2024 2:36 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 8/4/2024 6:46 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I went back and looked at the options they gave... I should of selected >>>> Security Key ,. then would probably have to download some application
    from them. Would I still be able to check it with scans?

    https://postimg.cc/BL4nGZVT

    Anyways, I'm going to suggest it to the ID.me guy I'm in contact with. >>>>
    Robert

    Anything that involves computers, is going to be like this.
    You've likely figured this out by now. A self-perpetuating
    loop. It's just the size of the loop that varies :-/

    I have a vague sense of some of it, but the analysis of "actual security", >>> like how much better is it than a phish-able phone setup, that I don't
    know. The security key can be stolen from you, but the authentication
    method should be harder to steal.

    And the articles Microsoft writes on this are not that helpful.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/device-experiences/windows-hello-face-authentication

    The cameras seven or eight years ago, were "structured light" cameras.
    One of the facial recognition features, was illuminating your face
    with infrared light, which is a bit more independent of ambient
    light conditions. But if I Google the topic, there are people who
    have problems with their hardware and the drivers for it. Stuff
    that used to work, that stopped working.

    Fingerprint readers have been around for a longer time, but
    unless the OS has a framework for them, there could still be
    reasons they don't work.

    That's why you want someone to help you, who knows of "approved"
    or even "tested" setups that work.

    But the FIDO2 key, that part is simpler. The recognition there,
    part of it is at the VA end, actually accepting input from
    a FIDO2 key. It's less likely to be a USB hub failure on the
    local computer end.

    Fingerprint readers apparently vary in some anti-spoofing
    features they have added.

    It's the authentication bit that leaves a lot to be desired.

        Paul



    Agreed , its their end that has the problems... this was supposed to be simpler
    but has messed everything up and I've lost my online connection to the VA. >>
    I'm not sure about the FIDO2 is that something I download from them? I had suggested using the Security Key as my MFA and the rep responded I could add another MFA option if I wanted but they still do not have a photo of me. I told him I had given a
    photo of my drivers license front and back and it was accepted.

    I've tried an entire week to get verified by ID.me and their rep just referred me to a VA site. I called the VA and said they could do nothing and  referred me back to ID.me
    See what I mean?

    Whenever I try and login it asks for the same information I've already given. I tried calling the VA HeatheVet rep but they are never there and their mailbox is full. I tried calling the VA Patients Advocate and the same thing. The ID.me rep is of no
    help at all. I suggested we delete the account and start over and its like he didn't see it.

    So once I get my car repaired... I'll go to the VA and try and straighten this out.

    Thanks
    R:)

    Just for the record, this one, the button on it is the "Transmit" button.
    The button is effectively a "clicker". There are different brands of these, implementing the FIDO2 standard. Similar to how TPM chips on computers, implement a standard, even though there are different brands, and those secure the boot process. This can be used for any number of things.
    It's possible Gmail can be set up with one of these.

    https://www.amazon.ca/FIDO-Security-TrustKey-FIDO2-Fingerprint/dp/B086QTS5YM

    The fingerprint ones, are generally a more uniform surface of some sort
    of material. One I saw, even looked "optical" and had a transparent section. It's about double the price of the other one.

    https://www.amazon.com/Fingerprint-Thetis-Authentication-Protection-SalesForce/dp/B0821TDLP4

    And the device manufacturers recommend two of those, so if one stops working, you still have the second working one, until you can get yet another
    device enrolled.

    I had a device for work a long time ago, and it's a nuisance because
    of the "quirks" these devices have. You could go to use one, and
    it could stop working. Whereas, your keyboard is pretty reliable
    and you can tell when the keys are worn out and take precautions in
    time. The security devices can have more than one failure mode
    (such as the VA server getting wiped out, and not being ready and
    able to accept authentication packets). And then you don't know
    where to start. The device I used, needed to be resynchronized
    several times, which is painless, but you have to visit the correct
    person at work to get it done. These FIDO2 devices are not temporal,
    so that kind of quirk is not present. The device I had, was
    constantly powered. And, no battery bay either. I think I was
    using that in the dialup era, before ADSL.

    In my case then, I was "fully supported". There was an IT department.
    The password person in my building, could handle the security device.
    Whereas in your situation, it's the modern shitty "self-serve" model,
    which is fine for things that work, not so fine for high tech things.
    Keeping a GMail account working, is an example of the shitty "self-serve" model.
    It's great for the smartphone people, who can SMS from dawn till dusk.

    Paul






    I was able to login


    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Aug 16 07:31:05 2024
    On Thu, 8/8/2024 11:47 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I was able to login


    Robert

    That must count as a miracle :-)

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Aug 17 00:02:39 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 8/8/2024 11:47 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I was able to login


    Robert

    That must count as a miracle :-)

    Paul




    Yes, but I still have to create a new
    account with ID.me or login.Gov by Jan.

    Also, my car has some serious trouble,..
    the thermostat stuck so I have to have
    the radiator replaced, water pump, hoses
    etc but no one will take it because its a
    1990 Toyota.

    Its been down for 2 weeks now; the park
    manager's husband is a mechanic and
    hopefully he'll fix it for me. We'll see
    and hope for the best.


    Robert

    _




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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Aug 17 23:51:14 2024
    On Sat, 8/17/2024 3:02 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Yes, but I still have to create a new
    account with ID.me or login.Gov by Jan.

    Also, my car has some serious trouble,..
    the thermostat stuck so I have to have
    the radiator replaced, water pump, hoses
    etc but no one will take it because its a
    1990 Toyota.

    Its been down for 2 weeks now; the park
    manager's husband is a mechanic and
    hopefully he'll fix it for me. We'll see
    and hope for the best.


    Robert

    At that vintage, certain after-market parts
    won't be readily available.

    On my car, it was off to the junk yard to find parts.
    The transmission in my car, the replacement, came
    from a junk yard, and it wasn't in "primo" condition.
    But it did last until the end of the life of the car.

    There are also parts networks, which I gather is
    a kind of forum, a mechanic can ask if anyone
    has a #12345678 sitting around, and other people have
    a look. For my previous car, the tech was using
    that to track down parts that were no long
    available as official after-market stuff. That
    might stretch your parts from 18 years to 20 years.

    Dealerships don't necessarily stock in depth. Like
    when I needed exhaust hangers (the rubber donut
    that suspends the exhaust), I had to go all over town
    to find a couple.

    Just to give you some idea, some parts start
    disappearing before the "end of the era". If they
    promise to have parts for 18 years, some of the
    parts can disappear years earlier than that.
    And that matters when you've been in a smash-up,
    and items that would not normally wear out, are needed.
    Again, it's time for a hunt in the junk yard and so on.

    And some things are just a bad idea. It might have
    been my first car. A neighbor knocked the bumper off it.
    The shop acquires a new bumper (plastic). It's the wrong
    color, and so they say "no problem, we'll paint it".
    And for the rest of the life of that car, the bumper
    was a "festering peeling mess" :-) Such classic good looks.
    It's not really a good idea to paint plastic bumps.
    I mean, who knew ?

    It's one thing to get hoses, at a hose place. But
    some hoses are "shaped" and have sharp features in
    them (bends you cannot do properly with your hands,
    because the hose would collapse if you bent it that way).
    The hoses seem to be molded into the require shape.
    While under normal circumstances, you'd only need
    a hose of 2" diameter and so many feet long, when
    they're shaped like that, you need the correct part instead.
    These are hoses that fit into tight spots.

    As an example, I was lucky on my Integra, the power steering cooler
    (it doesn't need one of those!) rusted out, I did a bypass.
    I got a length of generic hose, some stainless hose
    clamps, and just replaced the cooler with... nothing.
    And that worked fine. Since the run was a straight line,
    the hose just had to be compatible with power steering fluid.

    The last thing that blew on that car, was a rebuilt alternator,
    and since the frame was getting soft (no way to lift car
    any more to work on it), that means it is time to
    donate the car to the junk yard.

    Sometimes a mechanical will tell you that. "If I lift
    your car, it could fall off the lift." That's when you
    know you're close to the limit. I don't like lifting
    cars via the pinch welds, and I use my floor jack and
    lift them by the beam in the center. It's floor jack,
    jack stands, and chocks for the wheels.

    Paul

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Aug 18 18:31:51 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 8/17/2024 3:02 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Yes, but I still have to create a new
    account with ID.me or login.Gov by Jan.

    Also, my car has some serious trouble,..
    the thermostat stuck so I have to have
    the radiator replaced, water pump, hoses
    etc but no one will take it because its a
    1990 Toyota.

    Its been down for 2 weeks now; the park
    manager's husband is a mechanic and
    hopefully he'll fix it for me. We'll see
    and hope for the best.


    Robert

    At that vintage, certain after-market parts
    won't be readily available.

    On my car, it was off to the junk yard to find parts.
    The transmission in my car, the replacement, came
    from a junk yard, and it wasn't in "primo" condition.
    But it did last until the end of the life of the car.

    There are also parts networks, which I gather is
    a kind of forum, a mechanic can ask if anyone
    has a #12345678 sitting around, and other people have
    a look. For my previous car, the tech was using
    that to track down parts that were no long
    available as official after-market stuff. That
    might stretch your parts from 18 years to 20 years.

    Dealerships don't necessarily stock in depth. Like
    when I needed exhaust hangers (the rubber donut
    that suspends the exhaust), I had to go all over town
    to find a couple.

    Just to give you some idea, some parts start
    disappearing before the "end of the era". If they
    promise to have parts for 18 years, some of the
    parts can disappear years earlier than that.
    And that matters when you've been in a smash-up,
    and items that would not normally wear out, are needed.
    Again, it's time for a hunt in the junk yard and so on.

    And some things are just a bad idea. It might have
    been my first car. A neighbor knocked the bumper off it.
    The shop acquires a new bumper (plastic). It's the wrong
    color, and so they say "no problem, we'll paint it".
    And for the rest of the life of that car, the bumper
    was a "festering peeling mess" :-) Such classic good looks.
    It's not really a good idea to paint plastic bumps.
    I mean, who knew ?

    It's one thing to get hoses, at a hose place. But
    some hoses are "shaped" and have sharp features in
    them (bends you cannot do properly with your hands,
    because the hose would collapse if you bent it that way).
    The hoses seem to be molded into the require shape.
    While under normal circumstances, you'd only need
    a hose of 2" diameter and so many feet long, when
    they're shaped like that, you need the correct part instead.
    These are hoses that fit into tight spots.

    As an example, I was lucky on my Integra, the power steering cooler
    (it doesn't need one of those!) rusted out, I did a bypass.
    I got a length of generic hose, some stainless hose
    clamps, and just replaced the cooler with... nothing.
    And that worked fine. Since the run was a straight line,
    the hose just had to be compatible with power steering fluid.

    The last thing that blew on that car, was a rebuilt alternator,
    and since the frame was getting soft (no way to lift car
    any more to work on it), that means it is time to
    donate the car to the junk yard.

    Sometimes a mechanical will tell you that. "If I lift
    your car, it could fall off the lift." That's when you
    know you're close to the limit. I don't like lifting
    cars via the pinch welds, and I use my floor jack and
    lift them by the beam in the center. It's floor jack,
    jack stands, and chocks for the wheels.

    Paul



    Your so right ,... however we've been able to track down all the
    parts needed except some aluminum bypass tube underneath the engine.
    However, it turned out it was OK and it was a hose underneath that was
    leaking.

    He sure knows what he's doing though... Apparently he knows where
    to go for parts for older cars. He's got a few himself.

    Here's the car:

    https://postimg.cc/K41KGzS0


    Luckily, I had bought some car ramps some 30 years ago for just
    such an emergency. So the car has been on the ramps for 2 weeks
    now. So when the parts arrive he'll put it all back together....I just
    hope it doesn't cost allot.

    R:)







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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Aug 18 21:07:48 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 8/17/2024 3:02 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Yes, but I still have to create a new
    account with ID.me or login.Gov by Jan.

    Also, my car has some serious trouble,..
    the thermostat stuck so I have to have
    the radiator replaced, water pump, hoses
    etc but no one will take it because its a
    1990 Toyota.

    Its been down for 2 weeks now; the park
    manager's husband is a mechanic and
    hopefully he'll fix it for me. We'll see
    and hope for the best.


    Robert

    At that vintage, certain after-market parts
    won't be readily available.

    On my car, it was off to the junk yard to find parts.
    The transmission in my car, the replacement, came
    from a junk yard, and it wasn't in "primo" condition.
    But it did last until the end of the life of the car.

    There are also parts networks, which I gather is
    a kind of forum, a mechanic can ask if anyone
    has a #12345678 sitting around, and other people have
    a look. For my previous car, the tech was using
    that to track down parts that were no long
    available as official after-market stuff. That
    might stretch your parts from 18 years to 20 years.

    Dealerships don't necessarily stock in depth. Like
    when I needed exhaust hangers (the rubber donut
    that suspends the exhaust), I had to go all over town
    to find a couple.

    Just to give you some idea, some parts start
    disappearing before the "end of the era". If they
    promise to have parts for 18 years, some of the
    parts can disappear years earlier than that.
    And that matters when you've been in a smash-up,
    and items that would not normally wear out, are needed.
    Again, it's time for a hunt in the junk yard and so on.

    And some things are just a bad idea. It might have
    been my first car. A neighbor knocked the bumper off it.
    The shop acquires a new bumper (plastic). It's the wrong
    color, and so they say "no problem, we'll paint it".
    And for the rest of the life of that car, the bumper
    was a "festering peeling mess" :-) Such classic good looks.
    It's not really a good idea to paint plastic bumps.
    I mean, who knew ?

    It's one thing to get hoses, at a hose place. But
    some hoses are "shaped" and have sharp features in
    them (bends you cannot do properly with your hands,
    because the hose would collapse if you bent it that way).
    The hoses seem to be molded into the require shape.
    While under normal circumstances, you'd only need
    a hose of 2" diameter and so many feet long, when
    they're shaped like that, you need the correct part instead.
    These are hoses that fit into tight spots.

    As an example, I was lucky on my Integra, the power steering cooler
    (it doesn't need one of those!) rusted out, I did a bypass.
    I got a length of generic hose, some stainless hose
    clamps, and just replaced the cooler with... nothing.
    And that worked fine. Since the run was a straight line,
    the hose just had to be compatible with power steering fluid.

    The last thing that blew on that car, was a rebuilt alternator,
    and since the frame was getting soft (no way to lift car
    any more to work on it), that means it is time to
    donate the car to the junk yard.

    Sometimes a mechanical will tell you that. "If I lift
    your car, it could fall off the lift." That's when you
    know you're close to the limit. I don't like lifting
    cars via the pinch welds, and I use my floor jack and
    lift them by the beam in the center. It's floor jack,
    jack stands, and chocks for the wheels.

    Paul




    I think I remember you saying that the lag problem
    I'm experiencing may be an indication of my power
    supply going.

    Is there a test like HD-Tune that we can test the power
    supply to see if it's OK ?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    _



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Aug 19 05:16:35 2024
    On Mon, 8/19/2024 12:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I think I remember you saying that the lag problem
    I'm experiencing may be an indication of my power
    supply going.

    Is there a test like HD-Tune that we can test the power
    supply to see if it's OK ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Static testing of an ATX PSU, means using a multimeter
    to measure the voltages. When you apply a computing
    load, you expect the voltage to only vary by a tiny
    amount, not by a large amount. The terms for this
    are "line regulation" and "load regulation". As the mains
    voltage goes up and down, the DC output does not change.
    When the CPU draws more current, the +12V does not drop too much.

    Instead of using the CPU as an electrical load, you
    can use ceramic power resistors. I have a 100W load
    for a PSU, that consists of a series of ceramic resistors.
    I might measure the ATX voltage while the load is applied.
    This load is used for evaluating a new PSU, and it is
    not a strenuous test. It's a test that the thing is
    "functional" and "meets baseline performance". It
    does not evaluate the transient response, the ability to
    handle a large capacitive load and so on. More than 5000uF
    of capacitance, may cause an ATX supply to oscillate
    (no remaining phase margin in control loop).

    There are rack mount PSU testers you can get. I think
    perhaps a site like Anandtech might have had one of those.
    Those can evaluate just about every spec a PSU might meet.

    It's a lot harder though, to do realistic or precise testing
    via adhoc means. Testing with a multimeter isn't all that
    meaningful.

    *******

    When a PSU does not measure up, one possible outcome is a CPU crash.

    A second outcome (if the 12V runs at 11V), is the hard drive spins down
    and spins back up. You might even hear "clicking", which is a seek-to-zero operation. But the drive isn't really doing that for good reason, that's
    the firmware it is forced to run when the power monitor chip decides
    to reset the controller printed circuit board. When a disk clicks,
    there are two possibilities - bad PSU, or bad disk.

    The PSU can be quite sick, before the machine manifests with any
    symptoms at all. It was the hard drive noise, that told me the
    previous supply needed to be changed out. I checked the voltages
    with the multimeter, and only the +12V was low. I got a Seasonic S12 600W
    to replace it. The previous supply was around 500W or so, an Enermax
    I've had for a long time.

    Generally, Dell PSUs are OK. They're not a Powmax or anything :-)

    https://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/ProductImage/17-163-018-06.JPG

    "Lag" in a browser, can come from the CPU being pinned on one core,
    by a Javascript script in any open tab. It does not take much to
    cause that to happen. For some reason, browsers run a bit better
    under Linux. There's something about the scheduling or the thread
    model which is different. I have not seen a technical description
    of this difference, or I'd tell you what it was.

    Paul

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Aug 19 11:17:39 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 8/19/2024 12:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I think I remember you saying that the lag problem
    I'm experiencing may be an indication of my power
    supply going.

    Is there a test like HD-Tune that we can test the power
    supply to see if it's OK ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Static testing of an ATX PSU, means using a multimeter
    to measure the voltages. When you apply a computing
    load, you expect the voltage to only vary by a tiny
    amount, not by a large amount. The terms for this
    are "line regulation" and "load regulation". As the mains
    voltage goes up and down, the DC output does not change.
    When the CPU draws more current, the +12V does not drop too much.

    Instead of using the CPU as an electrical load, you
    can use ceramic power resistors. I have a 100W load
    for a PSU, that consists of a series of ceramic resistors.
    I might measure the ATX voltage while the load is applied.
    This load is used for evaluating a new PSU, and it is
    not a strenuous test. It's a test that the thing is
    "functional" and "meets baseline performance". It
    does not evaluate the transient response, the ability to
    handle a large capacitive load and so on. More than 5000uF
    of capacitance, may cause an ATX supply to oscillate
    (no remaining phase margin in control loop).

    There are rack mount PSU testers you can get. I think
    perhaps a site like Anandtech might have had one of those.
    Those can evaluate just about every spec a PSU might meet.

    It's a lot harder though, to do realistic or precise testing
    via adhoc means. Testing with a multimeter isn't all that
    meaningful.

    *******

    When a PSU does not measure up, one possible outcome is a CPU crash.

    A second outcome (if the 12V runs at 11V), is the hard drive spins down
    and spins back up. You might even hear "clicking", which is a seek-to-zero operation. But the drive isn't really doing that for good reason, that's
    the firmware it is forced to run when the power monitor chip decides
    to reset the controller printed circuit board. When a disk clicks,
    there are two possibilities - bad PSU, or bad disk.

    The PSU can be quite sick, before the machine manifests with any
    symptoms at all. It was the hard drive noise, that told me the
    previous supply needed to be changed out. I checked the voltages
    with the multimeter, and only the +12V was low. I got a Seasonic S12 600W
    to replace it. The previous supply was around 500W or so, an Enermax
    I've had for a long time.

    Generally, Dell PSUs are OK. They're not a Powmax or anything :-)

    https://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/ProductImage/17-163-018-06.JPG

    "Lag" in a browser, can come from the CPU being pinned on one core,
    by a Javascript script in any open tab. It does not take much to
    cause that to happen. For some reason, browsers run a bit better
    under Linux. There's something about the scheduling or the thread
    model which is different. I have not seen a technical description
    of this difference, or I'd tell you what it was.

    Paul


    OK,..... I was just asking,... I really haven't seen a drop in
    performance and I try to have only 1 application open at
    any one time.

    The computers themselves are quiet and humming along...

    I still do daily scans and monthly mrimgs.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    _



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Aug 28 11:22:41 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 8/19/2024 12:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I think I remember you saying that the lag problem
    I'm experiencing may be an indication of my power
    supply going.

    Is there a test like HD-Tune that we can test the power
    supply to see if it's OK ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Static testing of an ATX PSU, means using a multimeter
    to measure the voltages. When you apply a computing
    load, you expect the voltage to only vary by a tiny
    amount, not by a large amount. The terms for this
    are "line regulation" and "load regulation". As the mains
    voltage goes up and down, the DC output does not change.
    When the CPU draws more current, the +12V does not drop too much.

    Instead of using the CPU as an electrical load, you
    can use ceramic power resistors. I have a 100W load
    for a PSU, that consists of a series of ceramic resistors.
    I might measure the ATX voltage while the load is applied.
    This load is used for evaluating a new PSU, and it is
    not a strenuous test. It's a test that the thing is
    "functional" and "meets baseline performance". It
    does not evaluate the transient response, the ability to
    handle a large capacitive load and so on. More than 5000uF
    of capacitance, may cause an ATX supply to oscillate
    (no remaining phase margin in control loop).

    There are rack mount PSU testers you can get. I think
    perhaps a site like Anandtech might have had one of those.
    Those can evaluate just about every spec a PSU might meet.

    It's a lot harder though, to do realistic or precise testing
    via adhoc means. Testing with a multimeter isn't all that
    meaningful.

    *******

    When a PSU does not measure up, one possible outcome is a CPU crash.

    A second outcome (if the 12V runs at 11V), is the hard drive spins down
    and spins back up. You might even hear "clicking", which is a seek-to-zero operation. But the drive isn't really doing that for good reason, that's
    the firmware it is forced to run when the power monitor chip decides
    to reset the controller printed circuit board. When a disk clicks,
    there are two possibilities - bad PSU, or bad disk.

    The PSU can be quite sick, before the machine manifests with any
    symptoms at all. It was the hard drive noise, that told me the
    previous supply needed to be changed out. I checked the voltages
    with the multimeter, and only the +12V was low. I got a Seasonic S12 600W
    to replace it. The previous supply was around 500W or so, an Enermax
    I've had for a long time.

    Generally, Dell PSUs are OK. They're not a Powmax or anything :-)

    https://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/ProductImage/17-163-018-06.JPG

    "Lag" in a browser, can come from the CPU being pinned on one core,
    by a Javascript script in any open tab. It does not take much to
    cause that to happen. For some reason, browsers run a bit better
    under Linux. There's something about the scheduling or the thread
    model which is different. I have not seen a technical description
    of this difference, or I'd tell you what it was.

    Paul



    Just curious,.. on the 8500 Malwarebytes has changed with the
    updates but doesn't show a version number while the 780 has
    changed and is V4.6.17 but they look different. I'm just wondering
    why the difference? I check for updates for both so they should
    be the same.

    8500 Malwarebytes:

    https://postimg.cc/ykbdsVmf

    780 Malwarebytes:

    https://postimg.cc/3WG9gRRG


    Thanks,
    Robert




    _




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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Aug 29 00:27:58 2024
    On Wed, 8/28/2024 2:22 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Just curious,.. on the 8500 Malwarebytes has changed with the
    updates but doesn't show a version number while the 780 has
    changed and is V4.6.17 but they look different. I'm just wondering
    why the difference? I check for updates for both so they should
    be the same.

    8500 Malwarebytes:

    https://postimg.cc/ykbdsVmf

    780 Malwarebytes:

    https://postimg.cc/3WG9gRRG


    Thanks,
    Robert

    I would guess these are different versions.

    You might be able to go to their Program Files area,
    and do Properties on the main EXE file in there, and
    see if the version is mentioned.

    They both look like they're in Free mode (on-demand scan only),
    but only one indicates the Free status in the GUI (by using
    the word "Free").

    I tried looking at some Google images of Malwarebytes screens,
    and it's just a horrible mass of advertising, rather than
    presenting program information in a useful way.

    I suspect you're a few versions behind, but for signature scanning,
    that may not be that important (altering it, may make the
    situation worse). Their real time features would
    work better if they were kept up to date, but that would be
    a subscription, and it might also conflict with AVG or whatever
    else you've got as a real time AV. (Running two real-time AVs
    could slow a machine down.)

    As I understand it, the Malwarebytes on-demand signature scan,
    should not interact with an Avast or AVG subscription (with
    real time AV protection).

    I only resort to attempting to "test" mine, if it appears
    to be "dead". Malwarebytes, I think they said before, they
    don't respond to EICAR (as a test), and I can understand
    their reasons for saying that (not a good test), but in
    many situations, it's the easiest thing I can try. But
    that would not work on Malwarebytes. And your other AV,
    may intercept the attempt to install it, before Malwarebytes
    can be asked to do an on-demand scan. In summary, it's hard
    to design test cases for a well-armored battleship. And even when
    products have switches to "disable" them, they're not really
    disabled. Just about anything could happen to invalidate your
    test case :-)

    I have tested AV products before, which appeared to be non-functional,
    and they were so bad, you didn't even need to feed them "bait" to tell
    they were dead. In other cases, all the dialog boxes work, but
    they're not really working. I've had failures on the Microsoft one,
    where it doesn't seem to be loaded (I get a white screen instead
    of the dialog). It's been OK for the last year or
    so, at a guess. But the Microsoft one had some bad stretches,
    where it wasn't always home when you checked on it.

    Paul

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Aug 28 23:25:52 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 8/28/2024 2:22 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Just curious,.. on the 8500 Malwarebytes has changed with the
    updates but doesn't show a version number while the 780 has
    changed and is V4.6.17 but they look different. I'm just wondering
    why the difference? I check for updates for both so they should
    be the same.

    8500 Malwarebytes:

    https://postimg.cc/ykbdsVmf

    780 Malwarebytes:

    https://postimg.cc/3WG9gRRG


    Thanks,
    Robert

    I would guess these are different versions.

    You might be able to go to their Program Files area,
    and do Properties on the main EXE file in there, and
    see if the version is mentioned.

    They both look like they're in Free mode (on-demand scan only),
    but only one indicates the Free status in the GUI (by using
    the word "Free").

    I tried looking at some Google images of Malwarebytes screens,
    and it's just a horrible mass of advertising, rather than
    presenting program information in a useful way.

    I suspect you're a few versions behind, but for signature scanning,
    that may not be that important (altering it, may make the
    situation worse). Their real time features would
    work better if they were kept up to date, but that would be
    a subscription, and it might also conflict with AVG or whatever
    else you've got as a real time AV. (Running two real-time AVs
    could slow a machine down.)

    As I understand it, the Malwarebytes on-demand signature scan,
    should not interact with an Avast or AVG subscription (with
    real time AV protection).

    I only resort to attempting to "test" mine, if it appears
    to be "dead". Malwarebytes, I think they said before, they
    don't respond to EICAR (as a test), and I can understand
    their reasons for saying that (not a good test), but in
    many situations, it's the easiest thing I can try. But
    that would not work on Malwarebytes. And your other AV,
    may intercept the attempt to install it, before Malwarebytes
    can be asked to do an on-demand scan. In summary, it's hard
    to design test cases for a well-armored battleship. And even when
    products have switches to "disable" them, they're not really
    disabled. Just about anything could happen to invalidate your
    test case :-)

    I have tested AV products before, which appeared to be non-functional,
    and they were so bad, you didn't even need to feed them "bait" to tell
    they were dead. In other cases, all the dialog boxes work, but
    they're not really working. I've had failures on the Microsoft one,
    where it doesn't seem to be loaded (I get a white screen instead
    of the dialog). It's been OK for the last year or
    so, at a guess. But the Microsoft one had some bad stretches,
    where it wasn't always home when you checked on it.

    Paul



    Yes, both are free versions of Malwarebtyes.

    That's what I thought, that it was a couple versions behind on the
    780 but I run the updates on both and yet they're different? I didn't
    do anything myself to alter them.

    I don't have any issues with the A/V software and Malwarebtyes

    I also agree its best to just leave them alone,..I was just curious
    as to the difference.

    Some of the things we went through were pretty strange as well. Like
    the rogue users on Win10 where we had to use the User Account and
    make it a Admin Account to delete one and the other where we deleted
    the entire disk and used 22H2.

    Robert



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Sep 1 09:23:39 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 8/28/2024 2:22 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Just curious,.. on the 8500 Malwarebytes has changed with the
    updates but doesn't show a version number while the 780 has
    changed and is V4.6.17 but they look different. I'm just wondering
    why the difference? I check for updates for both so they should
    be the same.

    8500 Malwarebytes:

    https://postimg.cc/ykbdsVmf

    780 Malwarebytes:

    https://postimg.cc/3WG9gRRG


    Thanks,
    Robert

    I would guess these are different versions.

    You might be able to go to their Program Files area,
    and do Properties on the main EXE file in there, and
    see if the version is mentioned.

    They both look like they're in Free mode (on-demand scan only),
    but only one indicates the Free status in the GUI (by using
    the word "Free").

    I tried looking at some Google images of Malwarebytes screens,
    and it's just a horrible mass of advertising, rather than
    presenting program information in a useful way.

    I suspect you're a few versions behind, but for signature scanning,
    that may not be that important (altering it, may make the
    situation worse). Their real time features would
    work better if they were kept up to date, but that would be
    a subscription, and it might also conflict with AVG or whatever
    else you've got as a real time AV. (Running two real-time AVs
    could slow a machine down.)

    As I understand it, the Malwarebytes on-demand signature scan,
    should not interact with an Avast or AVG subscription (with
    real time AV protection).

    I only resort to attempting to "test" mine, if it appears
    to be "dead". Malwarebytes, I think they said before, they
    don't respond to EICAR (as a test), and I can understand
    their reasons for saying that (not a good test), but in
    many situations, it's the easiest thing I can try. But
    that would not work on Malwarebytes. And your other AV,
    may intercept the attempt to install it, before Malwarebytes
    can be asked to do an on-demand scan. In summary, it's hard
    to design test cases for a well-armored battleship. And even when
    products have switches to "disable" them, they're not really
    disabled. Just about anything could happen to invalidate your
    test case :-)

    I have tested AV products before, which appeared to be non-functional,
    and they were so bad, you didn't even need to feed them "bait" to tell
    they were dead. In other cases, all the dialog boxes work, but
    they're not really working. I've had failures on the Microsoft one,
    where it doesn't seem to be loaded (I get a white screen instead
    of the dialog). It's been OK for the last year or
    so, at a guess. But the Microsoft one had some bad stretches,
    where it wasn't always home when you checked on it.

    Paul


    I was just curious,..

    I just finished doing the mrimg's ; the 780 took
    about 1 hour but the 8500 took about 30 minutes!
    I would have thought the 8500 would take longer
    because there's more on it?

    780 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/hz8YYN7y

    8500 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/BXnzhYZp

    Why the difference in time?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    _





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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Sep 2 10:37:52 2024
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 8/28/2024 2:22 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Just curious,.. on the 8500 Malwarebytes has changed with the
    updates but doesn't show a version number while the 780 has
    changed and is V4.6.17 but they look different. I'm just wondering
    why the difference? I check for updates for both so they should
    be the same.

    8500 Malwarebytes:

    https://postimg.cc/ykbdsVmf

    780 Malwarebytes:

    https://postimg.cc/3WG9gRRG


    Thanks,
    Robert

    I would guess these are different versions.

    You might be able to go to their Program Files area,
    and do Properties on the main EXE file in there, and
    see if the version is mentioned.

    They both look like they're in Free mode (on-demand scan only),
    but only one indicates the Free status in the GUI (by using
    the word "Free").

    I tried looking at some Google images of Malwarebytes screens,
    and it's just a horrible mass of advertising, rather than
    presenting program information in a useful way.

    I suspect you're a few versions behind, but for signature scanning,
    that may not be that important (altering it, may make the
    situation worse). Their real time features would
    work better if they were kept up to date, but that would be
    a subscription, and it might also conflict with AVG or whatever
    else you've got as a real time AV. (Running two real-time AVs
    could slow a machine down.)

    As I understand it, the Malwarebytes on-demand signature scan,
    should not interact with an Avast or AVG subscription (with
    real time AV protection).

    I only resort to attempting to "test" mine, if it appears
    to be "dead". Malwarebytes, I think they said before, they
    don't respond to EICAR (as a test), and I can understand
    their reasons for saying that (not a good test), but in
    many situations, it's the easiest thing I can try. But
    that would not work on Malwarebytes. And your other AV,
    may intercept the attempt to install it, before Malwarebytes
    can be asked to do an on-demand scan. In summary, it's hard
    to design test cases for a well-armored battleship. And even when
    products have switches to "disable" them, they're not really
    disabled. Just about anything could happen to invalidate your
    test case :-)

    I have tested AV products before, which appeared to be non-functional,
    and they were so bad, you didn't even need to feed them "bait" to tell
    they were dead. In other cases, all the dialog boxes work, but
    they're not really working. I've had failures on the Microsoft one,
    where it doesn't seem to be loaded (I get a white screen instead
    of the dialog). It's been OK for the last year or
    so, at a guess. But the Microsoft one had some bad stretches,
    where it wasn't always home when you checked on it.

        Paul


    I was just curious,..

    I just finished doing the mrimg's ; the 780 took
    about 1 hour but the 8500 took about 30 minutes!
    I would have thought the 8500 would take longer
    because there's more on it?

    780 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/hz8YYN7y

    8500 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/BXnzhYZp

    Why the difference in time?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    _





    Oh I think I know,..

    the 8500 I/O speed is much faster,..

    Robert




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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Sep 5 01:09:07 2024
    On Sun, 9/1/2024 12:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 8/28/2024 2:22 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Just curious,.. on the 8500 Malwarebytes has changed with the
    updates but doesn't show a version number while the 780 has
    changed and is V4.6.17 but they look different. I'm just wondering
    why the difference? I check for updates for both so they should
    be the same.

    8500 Malwarebytes:

    https://postimg.cc/ykbdsVmf

    780 Malwarebytes:

    https://postimg.cc/3WG9gRRG


    Thanks,
    Robert

    I would guess these are different versions.

    You might be able to go to their Program Files area,
    and do Properties on the main EXE file in there, and
    see if the version is mentioned.

    They both look like they're in Free mode (on-demand scan only),
    but only one indicates the Free status in the GUI (by using
    the word "Free").

    I tried looking at some Google images of Malwarebytes screens,
    and it's just a horrible mass of advertising, rather than
    presenting program information in a useful way.

    I suspect you're a few versions behind, but for signature scanning,
    that may not be that important (altering it, may make the
    situation worse). Their real time features would
    work better if they were kept up to date, but that would be
    a subscription, and it might also conflict with AVG or whatever
    else you've got as a real time AV. (Running two real-time AVs
    could slow a machine down.)

    As I understand it, the Malwarebytes on-demand signature scan,
    should not interact with an Avast or AVG subscription (with
    real time AV protection).

    I only resort to attempting to "test" mine, if it appears
    to be "dead". Malwarebytes, I think they said before, they
    don't respond to EICAR (as a test), and I can understand
    their reasons for saying that (not a good test), but in
    many situations, it's the easiest thing I can try. But
    that would not work on Malwarebytes. And your other AV,
    may intercept the attempt to install it, before Malwarebytes
    can be asked to do an on-demand scan. In summary, it's hard
    to design test cases for a well-armored battleship. And even when
    products have switches to "disable" them, they're not really
    disabled. Just about anything could happen to invalidate your
    test case :-)

    I have tested AV products before, which appeared to be non-functional,
    and they were so bad, you didn't even need to feed them "bait" to tell
    they were dead. In other cases, all the dialog boxes work, but
    they're not really working. I've had failures on the Microsoft one,
    where it doesn't seem to be loaded (I get a white screen instead
    of the dialog). It's been OK for the last year or
    so, at a guess. But the Microsoft one had some bad stretches,
    where it wasn't always home when you checked on it.

        Paul


    I was just curious,..

    I just finished doing the mrimg's ; the 780 took
    about 1 hour but the 8500 took about 30 minutes!
    I would have thought the 8500 would take longer
    because there's more on it?

    780 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/hz8YYN7y

    8500 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/BXnzhYZp

    Why the difference in time?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The 780 is writing at 1.1Gbit/sec or 138MB/sec.

    The 8500 is writing at 1.6Gbit/sec or 200MB/sec.

    Both speeds are possible with USB3, with the 8500 having a
    "native" port, and the 780 if you used USB3 could have the
    limitation of the PCIe x1 slot bandwidth (250MB/sec max).

    Another aspect of the problem, is whether the CPU has been
    asked to compress the output. There is an option control in
    the lower left corner, and you can turn off compression to
    get more speed.

    Macrium creates checksums for the MRIMG as it writes, and
    that is an aspect which provides an overall limit. You cannot
    go faster than the checksum process goes. The upper limit
    on some boxes would be about 300MB/sec or 2.4Gbit/sec.

    Hard drives are faster on the outer diameter, than they are
    near the hub. The hard drive that does maybe 290MB/sec
    on the outer diameter, only does 145MB/sec near the hub.
    Whereas flash based storage devices are more consistent from
    end to end.

    I would say, overall, the 780 did pretty good for a machine
    of that era. I have likely seen specimens here in the same
    ballpark as the 780. The thing is, Macrium doesn't pull every
    hardware trick in the book -- they want the backup to be
    accurate first, as an overall concern. The compressor they use,
    is a rather lightweight one, and it's a miracle it does not
    slow down the process all that much, compared to some of the
    compression choices. The best compressor you can get, even
    on my most powerful machine, can only do 50MB/sec :-) It is
    possible the Macrium one, runs on just the one core.

    If you happen to have included an MRIMG as part of a new backup
    operation, the file is already compressed, so the compressor
    will run slower on that portion of the backup.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Sep 5 01:44:56 2024
    On Mon, 9/2/2024 1:37 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Oh I think I know,..

    the 8500 I/O speed is much faster,..

    Robert

    To a degree, yes.

    But I could also pull tricks behind your back, to
    disadvantage the 8500, like having the backup
    drive being "almost full" so the writes are
    happening near the slow part of the rotating disk drive.

    If I used a faster CPU here, I could squeeze a bit more
    speed out of it. Nut the result, isn't much better really.
    With the hard drives I've got, I'd probably get about 150MB/sec
    or so as an average. The checksum process slows this down.

    ]Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/YSWF0w6j/Macrium-Compression-OFF.gif

    You can get faster speed than my destination drive. My destination
    is 7000 MB/sec, but the new PCIe rev5 NVMe drives can do 14000 MB/sec.
    It took them pretty well two years of puttering around and making
    new controllers and waiting for the faster flash to become available,
    to achieve that speed. It's getting harder to make the whizzy speeds.
    The faster the standards go, the longer it takes product to catch up.

    If my destination is 7000 and the picture only does 300, then
    you can see that drives aren't the whole story. The source does
    around 500, the dest 7000, the result is only 300.

    The way to get better results, is with different software.
    And especially if there were no checksums. But of course then
    we wouldn't know when a backup has "gone bad". I can do a Verify
    in Macrium, and ask it to tell me if a backup is still Good.
    Having backups with unknown integrity isn't worth much.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Sep 5 02:16:40 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 9/1/2024 12:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 8/28/2024 2:22 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Just curious,.. on the 8500 Malwarebytes has changed with the
    updates but doesn't show a version number while the 780 has
    changed and is V4.6.17 but they look different. I'm just wondering
    why the difference? I check for updates for both so they should
    be the same.

    8500 Malwarebytes:

    https://postimg.cc/ykbdsVmf

    780 Malwarebytes:

    https://postimg.cc/3WG9gRRG


    Thanks,
    Robert

    I would guess these are different versions.

    You might be able to go to their Program Files area,
    and do Properties on the main EXE file in there, and
    see if the version is mentioned.

    They both look like they're in Free mode (on-demand scan only),
    but only one indicates the Free status in the GUI (by using
    the word "Free").

    I tried looking at some Google images of Malwarebytes screens,
    and it's just a horrible mass of advertising, rather than
    presenting program information in a useful way.

    I suspect you're a few versions behind, but for signature scanning,
    that may not be that important (altering it, may make the
    situation worse). Their real time features would
    work better if they were kept up to date, but that would be
    a subscription, and it might also conflict with AVG or whatever
    else you've got as a real time AV. (Running two real-time AVs
    could slow a machine down.)

    As I understand it, the Malwarebytes on-demand signature scan,
    should not interact with an Avast or AVG subscription (with
    real time AV protection).

    I only resort to attempting to "test" mine, if it appears
    to be "dead". Malwarebytes, I think they said before, they
    don't respond to EICAR (as a test), and I can understand
    their reasons for saying that (not a good test), but in
    many situations, it's the easiest thing I can try. But
    that would not work on Malwarebytes. And your other AV,
    may intercept the attempt to install it, before Malwarebytes
    can be asked to do an on-demand scan. In summary, it's hard
    to design test cases for a well-armored battleship. And even when
    products have switches to "disable" them, they're not really
    disabled. Just about anything could happen to invalidate your
    test case :-)

    I have tested AV products before, which appeared to be non-functional,
    and they were so bad, you didn't even need to feed them "bait" to tell
    they were dead. In other cases, all the dialog boxes work, but
    they're not really working. I've had failures on the Microsoft one,
    where it doesn't seem to be loaded (I get a white screen instead
    of the dialog). It's been OK for the last year or
    so, at a guess. But the Microsoft one had some bad stretches,
    where it wasn't always home when you checked on it.

        Paul


    I was just curious,..

    I just finished doing the mrimg's ; the 780 took
    about 1 hour but the 8500 took about 30 minutes!
    I would have thought the 8500 would take longer
    because there's more on it?

    780 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/hz8YYN7y

    8500 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/BXnzhYZp

    Why the difference in time?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The 780 is writing at 1.1Gbit/sec or 138MB/sec.

    The 8500 is writing at 1.6Gbit/sec or 200MB/sec.

    Both speeds are possible with USB3, with the 8500 having a
    "native" port, and the 780 if you used USB3 could have the
    limitation of the PCIe x1 slot bandwidth (250MB/sec max).

    Another aspect of the problem, is whether the CPU has been
    asked to compress the output. There is an option control in
    the lower left corner, and you can turn off compression to
    get more speed.

    Macrium creates checksums for the MRIMG as it writes, and
    that is an aspect which provides an overall limit. You cannot
    go faster than the checksum process goes. The upper limit
    on some boxes would be about 300MB/sec or 2.4Gbit/sec.

    Hard drives are faster on the outer diameter, than they are
    near the hub. The hard drive that does maybe 290MB/sec
    on the outer diameter, only does 145MB/sec near the hub.
    Whereas flash based storage devices are more consistent from
    end to end.

    I would say, overall, the 780 did pretty good for a machine
    of that era. I have likely seen specimens here in the same
    ballpark as the 780. The thing is, Macrium doesn't pull every
    hardware trick in the book -- they want the backup to be
    accurate first, as an overall concern. The compressor they use,
    is a rather lightweight one, and it's a miracle it does not
    slow down the process all that much, compared to some of the
    compression choices. The best compressor you can get, even
    on my most powerful machine, can only do 50MB/sec :-) It is
    possible the Macrium one, runs on just the one core.

    If you happen to have included an MRIMG as part of a new backup
    operation, the file is already compressed, so the compressor
    will run slower on that portion of the backup.

    Paul


    Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
    but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
    verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?

    Thanks,
    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Sep 13 22:07:39 2024
    On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
    but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
    verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore.
    When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions
    off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.

    That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
    And it will indicate that it passed or failed.

    I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
    had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
    The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
    the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.

    *******

    You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
    keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
    "Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
    the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work.

    Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
    is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
    is a disadvantage of this workaround.

    You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
    you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.

    Paul

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Sep 14 07:17:46 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
    but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
    verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore.
    When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.

    That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
    And it will indicate that it passed or failed.

    I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
    had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
    The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
    the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.

    *******

    You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
    keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
    "Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
    the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work.

    Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
    is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
    is a disadvantage of this workaround.

    You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
    you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.

    Paul




    I checked the Bios on the 780 and the 8500 for Quick Boot.

    780:

    https://postimg.cc/qh63TCyx

    https://postimg.cc/JyDnDC01

    https://postimg.cc/F1gjs3wT

    8500:

    https://postimg.cc/qt3Kf38X

    https://postimg.cc/c6mnNZ8j

    So are you recommending I attach my external hd's and verify all the
    mrimgs via macrium? Also after each mrimg do I need to verify?

    Thanks,
    Robert






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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Sep 14 20:53:32 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
    but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
    verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore.
    When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.

    That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
    And it will indicate that it passed or failed.

    I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
    had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
    The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
    the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.

    *******

    You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
    keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
    "Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
    the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work.

    Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
    is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
    is a disadvantage of this workaround.

    You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
    you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.

    Paul




    Also, when doing the verify procedure would I use the Rescue CD ?

    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Sep 17 02:19:29 2024
    On Sat, 9/14/2024 10:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
    but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
    verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore.
    When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions >> off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.

    That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
    And it will indicate that it passed or failed.

    I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
    had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
    The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
    the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.

    *******

    You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
    keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
    "Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
    the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work.

    Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
    is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
    is a disadvantage of this workaround.

    You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
    you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.

        Paul




    I checked the Bios on the 780 and the 8500 for Quick Boot.

    780:

    https://postimg.cc/qh63TCyx

    https://postimg.cc/JyDnDC01

    https://postimg.cc/F1gjs3wT

    8500:

    https://postimg.cc/qt3Kf38X

    https://postimg.cc/c6mnNZ8j

    So are you recommending I attach my external hd's and verify all the
    mrimgs via macrium? Also after each mrimg do I need to verify?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's called "Fast BIOS mode" on this APTIO setup.

    https://i0.wp.com/blog.radwell.codes/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/PXL_20210515_114252926.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1

    Basically, it skips some steps. And in some cases (apparently), this
    included ignoring the BIOS key presses. For some reason, some keyboards working, some not working. The web page this item was on, the person
    had trouble changing the boot order while "Fast BIOS mode" was enabled.

    The thing is, so far, this is the first thing that ever made a difference. There isn't a guarantee it is the problem, but at least on some BIOS
    years ago, it's a problem.

    *******

    As for the Macrium Verify, the Verify function is not perfect. It does not identify every possible defect. It worked out in my case, because the
    checksum process, and the data writing process, were out of step, and
    the RAM corruption was upsetting the checksum. There may be other cases,
    where the data being backed up, is corrupted "early", like right after
    the read is done from the source disk. The Verify cannot see a problem
    in that case.

    You can use statistical sampling. Check a couple MRIMG files with the
    Verify function per year. Chances are, you will never see a problem.
    That's why I don't particular recommend making a hobby out of it.
    Still, it doesn't hurt to check an MRIMG on the odd occasion.

    We had some backup incidents at work, which illustrate the same thing.
    One of my fellow employees was quite proud of the pile of 8mm backup tapes
    he'd made. I asked him to stick a tape in the drive, and let's ask
    the software for the name of the backup. The tape spins, nothing happens.
    We try another tape. The tape spins, nothing happens. Well, none
    of the tapes have data on them. The "use cleaning tape" light is
    lit on the front panel of the 8mm drive (you are supposed to use
    the cleaning tape, every 30 hours). I have a box of cleaning
    tapes at my desk, for that model of drive. We put a bit of alcohol
    on the cleaning cart, clean the drive, do a small backup -- tape
    has data on it, the ID works properly.

    It is those occasions, when you have that smile on your face,
    and the backup has no data in it... that's when you run the Verify :-)

    On several occasions, utility software in my group, was released
    without proper testing, and... of course bad things happened.
    Software people are a lot more aware of this, than in the old
    days. One of the examples, is the usual thing. A backup software,
    that when you go to do a restore, it just doesn't work. It was
    apparently simple enough to fix, but I didn't stand around
    waiting for them to finish. That might have been reel-to-reel
    nine track tape, at the time.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Sep 18 00:21:45 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 9/14/2024 10:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
    but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
    verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore.
    When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions >>> off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.

    That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
    And it will indicate that it passed or failed.

    I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
    had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
    The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
    the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.

    *******

    You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
    keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
    "Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
    the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work.

    Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
    is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
    is a disadvantage of this workaround.

    You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
    you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.

        Paul




    I checked the Bios on the 780 and the 8500 for Quick Boot.

    780:

    https://postimg.cc/qh63TCyx

    https://postimg.cc/JyDnDC01

    https://postimg.cc/F1gjs3wT

    8500:

    https://postimg.cc/qt3Kf38X

    https://postimg.cc/c6mnNZ8j

    So are you recommending I attach my external hd's and verify all the
    mrimgs via macrium? Also after each mrimg do I need to verify?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's called "Fast BIOS mode" on this APTIO setup.

    https://i0.wp.com/blog.radwell.codes/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/PXL_20210515_114252926.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1

    Basically, it skips some steps. And in some cases (apparently), this
    included ignoring the BIOS key presses. For some reason, some keyboards working, some not working. The web page this item was on, the person
    had trouble changing the boot order while "Fast BIOS mode" was enabled.

    The thing is, so far, this is the first thing that ever made a difference. There isn't a guarantee it is the problem, but at least on some BIOS
    years ago, it's a problem.

    *******

    As for the Macrium Verify, the Verify function is not perfect. It does not identify every possible defect. It worked out in my case, because the checksum process, and the data writing process, were out of step, and
    the RAM corruption was upsetting the checksum. There may be other cases, where the data being backed up, is corrupted "early", like right after
    the read is done from the source disk. The Verify cannot see a problem
    in that case.

    You can use statistical sampling. Check a couple MRIMG files with the
    Verify function per year. Chances are, you will never see a problem.
    That's why I don't particular recommend making a hobby out of it.
    Still, it doesn't hurt to check an MRIMG on the odd occasion.

    We had some backup incidents at work, which illustrate the same thing.
    One of my fellow employees was quite proud of the pile of 8mm backup tapes he'd made. I asked him to stick a tape in the drive, and let's ask
    the software for the name of the backup. The tape spins, nothing happens.
    We try another tape. The tape spins, nothing happens. Well, none
    of the tapes have data on them. The "use cleaning tape" light is
    lit on the front panel of the 8mm drive (you are supposed to use
    the cleaning tape, every 30 hours). I have a box of cleaning
    tapes at my desk, for that model of drive. We put a bit of alcohol
    on the cleaning cart, clean the drive, do a small backup -- tape
    has data on it, the ID works properly.

    It is those occasions, when you have that smile on your face,
    and the backup has no data in it... that's when you run the Verify :-)

    On several occasions, utility software in my group, was released
    without proper testing, and... of course bad things happened.
    Software people are a lot more aware of this, than in the old
    days. One of the examples, is the usual thing. A backup software,
    that when you go to do a restore, it just doesn't work. It was
    apparently simple enough to fix, but I didn't stand around
    waiting for them to finish. That might have been reel-to-reel
    nine track tape, at the time.

    Paul





    I went back to check the BIOS for Fast Bios Mode but it
    wasn't there.

    https://postimg.cc/w1WGSQds

    As I understand it, verifying is like browsing the mrimgs.
    I went back to my previous images but I do not see a verify
    option to the left or does that appear after I select the mrimg?

    https://postimg.cc/t14NGKzX

    https://postimg.cc/p5fFFCBG

    Question: Do I change the drive letter for verifying? and
    then back again the same in browsing?

    Also, I believe I do not use the Rescue Disk for this, correct?
    I use it only to create mrimgs.

    Thanks,
    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Sep 19 04:50:40 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 9/14/2024 10:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
    but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
    verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore.
    When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions >>> off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.

    That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
    And it will indicate that it passed or failed.

    I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
    had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
    The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
    the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.

    *******

    You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
    keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
    "Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
    the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work.

    Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
    is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
    is a disadvantage of this workaround.

    You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
    you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.

        Paul




    I checked the Bios on the 780 and the 8500 for Quick Boot.

    780:

    https://postimg.cc/qh63TCyx

    https://postimg.cc/JyDnDC01

    https://postimg.cc/F1gjs3wT

    8500:

    https://postimg.cc/qt3Kf38X

    https://postimg.cc/c6mnNZ8j

    So are you recommending I attach my external hd's and verify all the
    mrimgs via macrium? Also after each mrimg do I need to verify?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's called "Fast BIOS mode" on this APTIO setup.

    https://i0.wp.com/blog.radwell.codes/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/PXL_20210515_114252926.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1

    Basically, it skips some steps. And in some cases (apparently), this
    included ignoring the BIOS key presses. For some reason, some keyboards working, some not working. The web page this item was on, the person
    had trouble changing the boot order while "Fast BIOS mode" was enabled.

    The thing is, so far, this is the first thing that ever made a difference. There isn't a guarantee it is the problem, but at least on some BIOS
    years ago, it's a problem.

    *******

    As for the Macrium Verify, the Verify function is not perfect. It does not identify every possible defect. It worked out in my case, because the checksum process, and the data writing process, were out of step, and
    the RAM corruption was upsetting the checksum. There may be other cases, where the data being backed up, is corrupted "early", like right after
    the read is done from the source disk. The Verify cannot see a problem
    in that case.

    You can use statistical sampling. Check a couple MRIMG files with the
    Verify function per year. Chances are, you will never see a problem.
    That's why I don't particular recommend making a hobby out of it.
    Still, it doesn't hurt to check an MRIMG on the odd occasion.

    We had some backup incidents at work, which illustrate the same thing.
    One of my fellow employees was quite proud of the pile of 8mm backup tapes he'd made. I asked him to stick a tape in the drive, and let's ask
    the software for the name of the backup. The tape spins, nothing happens.
    We try another tape. The tape spins, nothing happens. Well, none
    of the tapes have data on them. The "use cleaning tape" light is
    lit on the front panel of the 8mm drive (you are supposed to use
    the cleaning tape, every 30 hours). I have a box of cleaning
    tapes at my desk, for that model of drive. We put a bit of alcohol
    on the cleaning cart, clean the drive, do a small backup -- tape
    has data on it, the ID works properly.

    It is those occasions, when you have that smile on your face,
    and the backup has no data in it... that's when you run the Verify :-)

    On several occasions, utility software in my group, was released
    without proper testing, and... of course bad things happened.
    Software people are a lot more aware of this, than in the old
    days. One of the examples, is the usual thing. A backup software,
    that when you go to do a restore, it just doesn't work. It was
    apparently simple enough to fix, but I didn't stand around
    waiting for them to finish. That might have been reel-to-reel
    nine track tape, at the time.

    Paul


    I ran verify as a test using an older mrimg.

    https://postimg.cc/ZW8mKLWs

    https://postimg.cc/WDsvDJrN

    Robert


    _



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Sep 19 23:01:03 2024
    On Wed, 9/18/2024 3:21 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I went back to check the BIOS for Fast Bios Mode but it
    wasn't there.

    https://postimg.cc/w1WGSQds

    As I understand it, verifying is like browsing the mrimgs.
    I went back to my previous images but I do not see a verify
    option to the left or does that appear after I select the mrimg?

    https://postimg.cc/t14NGKzX

    https://postimg.cc/p5fFFCBG

    Question: Do I change the drive letter for verifying? and
    then back again the same in browsing?

    Also, I believe I do not use the Rescue Disk for this, correct?
    I use it only to create mrimgs.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Unfortunately, there isn't a standard for "Fast Boot" terminology.
    It can be disguised as other things, like "long memory test [No]"
    or similar.

    The Verify function, just checks the entire MRIMG file, no matter
    how many partitions are stored inside it. And you can do the Verify,
    while using your ordinary OS if you want. You can use whatever
    environment you feel is safest. I just do them with the
    ordinary OS running, so that the Verify runs while I'm
    doing other stuff.

    I do take the big machine offline while I do a backup on it
    (and use the CD for the job). And that can take most of the day.
    This assumes I have room to store it, at the time. The machine I
    use most of the time, has less storage, and the backup runs a bit
    faster.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Sep 19 22:50:38 2024
    On Thu, 9/19/2024 7:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 9/14/2024 10:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
    but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
    verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore.
    When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions >>>> off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.

    That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
    And it will indicate that it passed or failed.

    I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
    had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
    The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
    the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.

    *******

    You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
    keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
    "Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
    the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work. >>>>
    Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
    is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
    is a disadvantage of this workaround.

    You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
    you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.

         Paul




    I checked the Bios on the 780 and the 8500 for Quick Boot.

    780:

    https://postimg.cc/qh63TCyx

    https://postimg.cc/JyDnDC01

    https://postimg.cc/F1gjs3wT

    8500:

    https://postimg.cc/qt3Kf38X

    https://postimg.cc/c6mnNZ8j

    So are you recommending I attach my external hd's and verify all the
    mrimgs via macrium? Also after each mrimg do I need to verify?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's called "Fast BIOS mode" on this APTIO setup.

    https://i0.wp.com/blog.radwell.codes/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/PXL_20210515_114252926.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1

    Basically, it skips some steps. And in some cases (apparently), this
    included ignoring the BIOS key presses. For some reason, some keyboards
    working, some not working. The web page this item was on, the person
    had trouble changing the boot order while "Fast BIOS mode" was enabled.

    The thing is, so far, this is the first thing that ever made a difference. >> There isn't a guarantee it is the problem, but at least on some BIOS
    years ago, it's a problem.

    *******

    As for the Macrium Verify, the Verify function is not perfect. It does not >> identify every possible defect. It worked out in my case, because the
    checksum process, and the data writing process, were out of step, and
    the RAM corruption was upsetting the checksum. There may be other cases,
    where the data being backed up, is corrupted "early", like right after
    the read is done from the source disk. The Verify cannot see a problem
    in that case.

    You can use statistical sampling. Check a couple MRIMG files with the
    Verify function per year. Chances are, you will never see a problem.
    That's why I don't particular recommend making a hobby out of it.
    Still, it doesn't hurt to check an MRIMG on the odd occasion.

    We had some backup incidents at work, which illustrate the same thing.
    One of my fellow employees was quite proud of the pile of 8mm backup tapes >> he'd made. I asked him to stick a tape in the drive, and let's ask
    the software for the name of the backup. The tape spins, nothing happens.
    We try another tape. The tape spins, nothing happens. Well, none
    of the tapes have data on them. The "use cleaning tape" light is
    lit on the front panel of the 8mm drive (you are supposed to use
    the cleaning tape, every 30 hours). I have a box of cleaning
    tapes at my desk, for that model of drive. We put a bit of alcohol
    on the cleaning cart, clean the drive, do a small backup -- tape
    has data on it, the ID works properly.

    It is those occasions, when you have that smile on your face,
    and the backup has no data in it... that's when you run the Verify :-)

    On several occasions, utility software in my group, was released
    without proper testing, and... of course bad things happened.
    Software people are a lot more aware of this, than in the old
    days. One of the examples, is the usual thing. A backup software,
    that when you go to do a restore, it just doesn't work. It was
    apparently simple enough to fix, but I didn't stand around
    waiting for them to finish. That might have been reel-to-reel
    nine track tape, at the time.

        Paul


    I ran verify as a test using an older mrimg.

    https://postimg.cc/ZW8mKLWs

    https://postimg.cc/WDsvDJrN

    Robert

    And that proves the checksum hasn't changed, since the backup MRIMG was made.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Sep 20 00:52:13 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 9/19/2024 7:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 9/14/2024 10:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
    but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
    verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore. >>>>> When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions
    off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.

    That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
    And it will indicate that it passed or failed.

    I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
    had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
    The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
    the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.

    *******

    You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
    keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
    "Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
    the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work. >>>>>
    Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
    is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
    is a disadvantage of this workaround.

    You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
    you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.

         Paul




    I checked the Bios on the 780 and the 8500 for Quick Boot.

    780:

    https://postimg.cc/qh63TCyx

    https://postimg.cc/JyDnDC01

    https://postimg.cc/F1gjs3wT

    8500:

    https://postimg.cc/qt3Kf38X

    https://postimg.cc/c6mnNZ8j

    So are you recommending I attach my external hd's and verify all the
    mrimgs via macrium? Also after each mrimg do I need to verify?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's called "Fast BIOS mode" on this APTIO setup.

    https://i0.wp.com/blog.radwell.codes/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/PXL_20210515_114252926.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1

    Basically, it skips some steps. And in some cases (apparently), this
    included ignoring the BIOS key presses. For some reason, some keyboards
    working, some not working. The web page this item was on, the person
    had trouble changing the boot order while "Fast BIOS mode" was enabled.

    The thing is, so far, this is the first thing that ever made a difference. >>> There isn't a guarantee it is the problem, but at least on some BIOS
    years ago, it's a problem.

    *******

    As for the Macrium Verify, the Verify function is not perfect. It does not >>> identify every possible defect. It worked out in my case, because the
    checksum process, and the data writing process, were out of step, and
    the RAM corruption was upsetting the checksum. There may be other cases, >>> where the data being backed up, is corrupted "early", like right after
    the read is done from the source disk. The Verify cannot see a problem
    in that case.

    You can use statistical sampling. Check a couple MRIMG files with the
    Verify function per year. Chances are, you will never see a problem.
    That's why I don't particular recommend making a hobby out of it.
    Still, it doesn't hurt to check an MRIMG on the odd occasion.

    We had some backup incidents at work, which illustrate the same thing.
    One of my fellow employees was quite proud of the pile of 8mm backup tapes >>> he'd made. I asked him to stick a tape in the drive, and let's ask
    the software for the name of the backup. The tape spins, nothing happens. >>> We try another tape. The tape spins, nothing happens. Well, none
    of the tapes have data on them. The "use cleaning tape" light is
    lit on the front panel of the 8mm drive (you are supposed to use
    the cleaning tape, every 30 hours). I have a box of cleaning
    tapes at my desk, for that model of drive. We put a bit of alcohol
    on the cleaning cart, clean the drive, do a small backup -- tape
    has data on it, the ID works properly.

    It is those occasions, when you have that smile on your face,
    and the backup has no data in it... that's when you run the Verify :-)

    On several occasions, utility software in my group, was released
    without proper testing, and... of course bad things happened.
    Software people are a lot more aware of this, than in the old
    days. One of the examples, is the usual thing. A backup software,
    that when you go to do a restore, it just doesn't work. It was
    apparently simple enough to fix, but I didn't stand around
    waiting for them to finish. That might have been reel-to-reel
    nine track tape, at the time.

        Paul


    I ran verify as a test using an older mrimg.

    https://postimg.cc/ZW8mKLWs

    https://postimg.cc/WDsvDJrN

    Robert

    And that proves the checksum hasn't changed, since the backup MRIMG was made.

    Paul



    Thanks for all the great information and links.

    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Nov 1 07:09:25 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 9/19/2024 7:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 9/14/2024 10:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 9/5/2024 5:16 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Hmmmmm interesting,.. I never thought about it before
    but so much more to it than I thought. So should I start
    verifying my mrimgs? How do I verify them?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The restore section has an option to "browse" for things to restore. >>>>> When you open an item from the browsing function, there are four functions
    off to the side, and one of those is a Verify option.

    That takes about as long to run, as a restore would take.
    And it will indicate that it passed or failed.

    I had two backup files fail years ago, because the computer
    had bad RAM, and some of the bad RAM was used for the backup.
    The MRIMG then, was unusable. Once I replaced the RAM,
    the MRIMGs I made, were good again and passed the Verify test.

    *******

    You remember you had trouble entering the BIOS with one of your
    keyboards. Someone else had that happen, and the BIOS setting
    "Quick Boot" made a difference. With the Quick Boot turned off,
    the keyboard that did not work for BIOS entry before, started to work. >>>>>
    Using Quick Boot, turns off the BIOS RAM test. If the Quick Boot
    is turned off, the startup of the machine will be slower. Which
    is a disadvantage of this workaround.

    You can check to see if you have a "Quick Boot", some time when
    you are back in the BIOS. And see if it is OFF or ON.

         Paul




    I checked the Bios on the 780 and the 8500 for Quick Boot.

    780:

    https://postimg.cc/qh63TCyx

    https://postimg.cc/JyDnDC01

    https://postimg.cc/F1gjs3wT

    8500:

    https://postimg.cc/qt3Kf38X

    https://postimg.cc/c6mnNZ8j

    So are you recommending I attach my external hd's and verify all the
    mrimgs via macrium? Also after each mrimg do I need to verify?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's called "Fast BIOS mode" on this APTIO setup.

    https://i0.wp.com/blog.radwell.codes/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/PXL_20210515_114252926.jpg?resize=768%2C576&ssl=1

    Basically, it skips some steps. And in some cases (apparently), this
    included ignoring the BIOS key presses. For some reason, some keyboards
    working, some not working. The web page this item was on, the person
    had trouble changing the boot order while "Fast BIOS mode" was enabled.

    The thing is, so far, this is the first thing that ever made a difference. >>> There isn't a guarantee it is the problem, but at least on some BIOS
    years ago, it's a problem.

    *******

    As for the Macrium Verify, the Verify function is not perfect. It does not >>> identify every possible defect. It worked out in my case, because the
    checksum process, and the data writing process, were out of step, and
    the RAM corruption was upsetting the checksum. There may be other cases, >>> where the data being backed up, is corrupted "early", like right after
    the read is done from the source disk. The Verify cannot see a problem
    in that case.

    You can use statistical sampling. Check a couple MRIMG files with the
    Verify function per year. Chances are, you will never see a problem.
    That's why I don't particular recommend making a hobby out of it.
    Still, it doesn't hurt to check an MRIMG on the odd occasion.

    We had some backup incidents at work, which illustrate the same thing.
    One of my fellow employees was quite proud of the pile of 8mm backup tapes >>> he'd made. I asked him to stick a tape in the drive, and let's ask
    the software for the name of the backup. The tape spins, nothing happens. >>> We try another tape. The tape spins, nothing happens. Well, none
    of the tapes have data on them. The "use cleaning tape" light is
    lit on the front panel of the 8mm drive (you are supposed to use
    the cleaning tape, every 30 hours). I have a box of cleaning
    tapes at my desk, for that model of drive. We put a bit of alcohol
    on the cleaning cart, clean the drive, do a small backup -- tape
    has data on it, the ID works properly.

    It is those occasions, when you have that smile on your face,
    and the backup has no data in it... that's when you run the Verify :-)

    On several occasions, utility software in my group, was released
    without proper testing, and... of course bad things happened.
    Software people are a lot more aware of this, than in the old
    days. One of the examples, is the usual thing. A backup software,
    that when you go to do a restore, it just doesn't work. It was
    apparently simple enough to fix, but I didn't stand around
    waiting for them to finish. That might have been reel-to-reel
    nine track tape, at the time.

        Paul


    I ran verify as a test using an older mrimg.

    https://postimg.cc/ZW8mKLWs

    https://postimg.cc/WDsvDJrN

    Robert

    And that proves the checksum hasn't changed, since the backup MRIMG was made.

    Paul





    Completed mrimgs , computers are running well

    780

    https://postimg.cc/ThK2qGCB

    8500

    https://postimg.cc/DST2TGnK


    I had a heart attack and spent 3 days in ICU at the VA from the 8-10th
    of this month and then a week later I saw my primary doctor for my
    annual checkup and got my flu and shingles shots. Unfortunately, I had a allergic reaction to the flu shot and my hands and feet swelled up and
    had pins and needles pain, and itchy hives. I also had a reaction to the shingles and all my joints are screaming in pain,... I'm on medication
    but will run out soon. I've been to the ER (4) times since the ICU and
    have a appointment for the pain clinic on Nov15th

    So lots of pain,......

    Robert



    _




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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Nov 9 05:22:24 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 11/1/2024 10:09 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Completed mrimgs , computers are running well

    780

    https://postimg.cc/ThK2qGCB

    8500

    https://postimg.cc/DST2TGnK


    I had a heart attack and spent 3 days in ICU at the VA from the 8-10th of this month and then a week later I saw my primary  doctor for my annual checkup and got my flu and shingles shots. Unfortunately, I had a allergic reaction to the flu shot and
    my hands and feet swelled up and had pins and needles pain, and itchy hives. I also had a reaction to the shingles and all my joints are screaming in pain,... I'm on medication but will run out soon. I've been to the ER (4) times since the ICU and have a
    appointment for the pain clinic on Nov15th

    So lots of pain,......

    Robert

    I could have warned you about the shingles.

    That shingles, the second shot made the top section of my
    arm swell up. I didn't have any more vaccines in that
    arm for a while, because I didn't know if it was safe or not.

    If you had a chance to pass on the info, I would have recommended
    against it. The doctor should also known the shingles pair is
    not a joke, and should not be administered to people who have
    already been through a lot. That's the kind of shot, you wait
    until you're good and healthy before trying it.

    The flu shot can cause a histamine reaction, because the flu shot
    is based on eggs. People with an allergy or reaction to eggs, have
    to be on the lookout for that. If you have had many flu shots,
    and no throat swelling issues ten minutes later, it's likely "safe".
    I don't see why the current flu shot would cause a problem. Only
    if it was based on an entirely new method (MRNA?), would I be concerned.

    The joint pain, sounds like an autoimmune reaction.

    And it's not this one, because this one is numbness, rather than pain.

    https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/guillain-barre-syndrome/symptoms-causes/syc-20362793

    And I suppose you know that these days, it's hard for doctors
    to write scripts for pain killers. That then, becomes an issue
    when you have a legit pain problem. The doctors see so many
    people faking it, and just about all the doctors at my
    clinic, have lost the ability to write pain killer scripts.
    There seems to be zero tolerance for abuse of such scripts
    now, for the doctors here. I couldn't tell you what the
    rules are, what it takes to lose your script privileges.

    With the heart attack, did they do any work-up as to how occluded you are ? Three days is hardly any time to do anything. I think they have two CTs
    at my hospital, one for scheduled scans, and one for emergencies. The queue for
    the scheduled scans is five months long. I've seen a short video of my
    heart beating, it looks terrible :-)

    The problem with these machines, is the scans take a while, so they can't
    do too many per day.

    It sounds like you could really do with a diagnosis first. If it is
    an autoimmune reaction, then they should work on that, to try and
    correct your pain problem. My brother has an autoimmune problem
    and he is immune suppressed. And it took several tries, to find a
    treatment that he could tolerate. He likes the stuff he has now,
    which is good. (Likes it, in the sense that it works.)

    There are different kinds of immune suppression, and some are
    more serious than others (like bubble-boy bad).

    Paul




    I'm still in extreme pain all over,.. at first my hands and feet swelled
    up and were very painful with pins and needles and hives.

    Now my entire body is in pain and all joints,.. I went to ER (4) times
    and they ran all the tests and EKG's but did nothing and all they would
    give me was Tylenol except the last time a doctor gave me morphine but
    even that didn't help. I have a appointment with the pain clinic the 15th
    but am in agony till then and hope they'll help. They caused this.

    They did do all the scans and I saw my heart beating etc and it all looked fine. I was doing OK until I got the damn shots.

    I don't know what I have,. I hope it isn't Gullain-Barre-Syndrome. the
    doctor
    said its associated with my immune system building antibodies which could
    take a month. In the meantime I'm going through living hell here...

    Yeah doctors are very leery about writing pain killers but I'm in real pain
    and suffering here and hope they do something to help. They didn't seem
    to care all that much in the ER.

    Robert





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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Nov 9 23:51:03 2024
    On Sat, 11/9/2024 8:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 11/1/2024 10:09 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Completed mrimgs , computers are running well

    780

    https://postimg.cc/ThK2qGCB

    8500

    https://postimg.cc/DST2TGnK


    I had a heart attack and spent 3 days in ICU at the VA from the 8-10th of this month and then a week later I saw my primary  doctor for my annual checkup and got my flu and shingles shots. Unfortunately, I had a allergic reaction to the flu shot and
    my hands and feet swelled up and had pins and needles pain, and itchy hives. I also had a reaction to the shingles and all my joints are screaming in pain,... I'm on medication but will run out soon. I've been to the ER (4) times since the ICU and have a
    appointment for the pain clinic on Nov15th

    So lots of pain,......

    Robert

    I could have warned you about the shingles.

    That shingles, the second shot made the top section of my
    arm swell up. I didn't have any more vaccines in that
    arm for a while, because I didn't know if it was safe or not.

    If you had a chance to pass on the info, I would have recommended
    against it. The doctor should also known the shingles pair is
    not a joke, and should not be administered to people who have
    already been through a lot. That's the kind of shot, you wait
    until you're good and healthy before trying it.

    The flu shot can cause a histamine reaction, because the flu shot
    is based on eggs. People with an allergy or reaction to eggs, have
    to be on the lookout for that. If you have had many flu shots,
    and no throat swelling issues ten minutes later, it's likely "safe".
    I don't see why the current flu shot would cause a problem. Only
    if it was based on an entirely new method (MRNA?), would I be concerned.

    The joint pain, sounds like an autoimmune reaction.

    And it's not this one, because this one is numbness, rather than pain.

    https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/guillain-barre-syndrome/symptoms-causes/syc-20362793

    And I suppose you know that these days, it's hard for doctors
    to write scripts for pain killers. That then, becomes an issue
    when you have a legit pain problem. The doctors see so many
    people faking it, and just about all the doctors at my
    clinic, have lost the ability to write pain killer scripts.
    There seems to be zero tolerance for abuse of such scripts
    now, for the doctors here. I couldn't tell you what the
    rules are, what it takes to lose your script privileges.

    With the heart attack, did they do any work-up as to how occluded you are ? >> Three days is hardly any time to do anything. I think they have two CTs
    at my hospital, one for scheduled scans, and one for emergencies. The queue for
    the scheduled scans is five months long. I've seen a short video of my
    heart beating, it looks terrible :-)

    The problem with these machines, is the scans take a while, so they can't
    do too many per day.

    It sounds like you could really do with a diagnosis first. If it is
    an autoimmune reaction, then they should work on that, to try and
    correct your pain problem. My brother has an autoimmune problem
    and he is immune suppressed. And it took several tries, to find a
    treatment that he could tolerate. He likes the stuff he has now,
    which is good. (Likes it, in the sense that it works.)

    There are different kinds of immune suppression, and some are
    more serious than others (like bubble-boy bad).

        Paul




    I'm still in extreme pain all over,.. at first my hands and feet swelled
    up and were very painful with pins and needles and hives.

    Now my entire body is in pain and all joints,.. I went to ER (4) times
    and they ran all the tests and EKG's but did nothing and all they would
    give me was Tylenol except the last time a doctor gave me morphine but
    even that didn't help. I have a appointment with the pain clinic the 15th
    but am in agony till then and hope they'll help. They caused this.

    They did do all the scans and I saw my heart beating etc and it all looked fine. I was doing OK until I got the damn shots.

    I don't know what I have,. I hope it isn't Gullain-Barre-Syndrome. the doctor said its associated with my immune system building antibodies which could take a month. In the meantime I'm going through living hell here...

    Yeah doctors are very leery about writing pain killers but I'm in real pain and suffering here and hope they do something to help. They didn't seem
    to care all that much in the ER.

    Robert

    https://shingrixhcp.com/

    "In a postmarketing observational study, an increased risk of Guillain-Barré
    syndrome was observed during the 42 days following vaccination with SHINGRIX"

    That is part of why I picked that one out of the air for a check, since
    there is more than one vaccine associated with increased chance of GB.
    But GB can also happen out of the blue (not related to vaccine), and it's probably just as much to do with your recent medical history ("sick with a virus")
    as it is with the vaccine itself. It's more of a correlation than a cause.

    And your symptoms are wrong for that (GB is numbness). It was just an example that I remembered,
    nothing more.

    But an autoimmune response is not a normal immune response. it is an over-response.
    It's possible to suppress it, but back in the COVID era, it took quite a while before they figured out what treatment was in the right ballpark for such a situation.
    You may remember, the original COVID filled the lungs with fluid, and I think that's
    partially the body attacking its own lung tissue. At the time, someone wanted to
    suppress the response (stop the lungs filling with fluid), and there were
    a few theories as to which of several compounds might work. But that was a research topic, and by the time they had sorted through the information,
    the COVID had mutated to a different set of symptoms. You might notice today, there are no longer descriptions of the old treatment practices anywhere in
    the news.

    But in any case, there is more than one compound to suppress the response. There are drugs that are a general suppression of immunity, where there
    is an increased risk of you picking up diseases while out in public.
    There are also compounds, that don't have quite the same broad spectrum response. My brother is immune suppressed (I think it might be a triangular shaped compound), yet he doesn't have the same risk of picking up stuff in public. His treatment is for rheumatoid arthritis.

    Your symptoms on the other hand, seem almost similar to shingles. But that
    is not joint pain. I think Shingles is a skin-level pain.

    "Most people with shingles experience a localised band of pain in the
    affected area. The pain may be a constant, dull or burning sensation
    and its intensity can vary from mild to severe. You may have sharp
    stabbing pains from time to time, and the affected area of skin will
    usually be tender."

    The second Shingrex of course, is the one that is a rat bastard. It
    was in my case (arm did not swell on first one, arm definitely ballooned up
    on the second one).

    And we know this isn't it, because this is a description way lower on
    the pain scale. This isn't a nerve sheath pain. Just pressure from
    imflammation on a joint.

    https://www.healthline.com/health/shingrix-side-effects-second-dose#muscle-pain

    "Joint pain

    Joint pain, also called arthralgia, is a potential side effect of Shingrix
    that commonly occurs with muscle pain. This type of pain after a vaccine is
    generally due to a temporary increase in inflammation, which can affect the
    fluid around the joints.

    Like muscle pain, taking an OTC pain reliever can help reduce joint pain
    from the vaccine."

    I tried the same kind of searches on flu vaccine, and they mention the
    stirring up of arthritis. But again, that's not the description of yours.
    You are on fire, and I'm not getting a good match for that.

    I hope for your sake, a "pain clinic" has the right kind of specialist
    for this. You need an internal medicine specialist who knows about
    autoimmune responses.

    "Here are some specialists who treat autoimmune diseases:

    Nephrologist. A doctor who treats kidney problems, such as inflamed kidneys caused by lupus.
    Rheumatologist. A doctor who treats arthritis and other rheumatic diseases, such as scleroderma and lupus.
    Endocrinologist. A doctor who treats gland and hormone problems, such as diabetes and thyroid disease.

    Neurologist. A doctor who treats nerve problems, such as multiple sclerosis and myasthenia gravis.

    Hematologist. A doctor who treats diseases that affect blood, such as some forms of anemia.
    Gastroenterologist. A doctor who treats problems with the digestive system, such as inflammatory bowel disease.
    Dermatologist. A doctor who treats diseases that affect the skin, hair, and nails, such as psoriasis and lupus.
    Physical therapist. A health care worker who uses proper types of physical activity to help patients
    with stiffness, weakness, and restricted body movement.
    "

    So maybe that is who you will be seeing, is a neurologist ?

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Nov 10 19:28:31 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 11/9/2024 8:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 11/1/2024 10:09 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Completed mrimgs , computers are running well

    780

    https://postimg.cc/ThK2qGCB

    8500

    https://postimg.cc/DST2TGnK


    I had a heart attack and spent 3 days in ICU at the VA from the 8-10th of this month and then a week later I saw my primary  doctor for my annual checkup and got my flu and shingles shots. Unfortunately, I had a allergic reaction to the flu shot
    and my hands and feet swelled up and had pins and needles pain, and itchy hives. I also had a reaction to the shingles and all my joints are screaming in pain,... I'm on medication but will run out soon. I've been to the ER (4) times since the ICU and
    have a appointment for the pain clinic on Nov15th

    So lots of pain,......

    Robert

    I could have warned you about the shingles.

    That shingles, the second shot made the top section of my
    arm swell up. I didn't have any more vaccines in that
    arm for a while, because I didn't know if it was safe or not.

    If you had a chance to pass on the info, I would have recommended
    against it. The doctor should also known the shingles pair is
    not a joke, and should not be administered to people who have
    already been through a lot. That's the kind of shot, you wait
    until you're good and healthy before trying it.

    The flu shot can cause a histamine reaction, because the flu shot
    is based on eggs. People with an allergy or reaction to eggs, have
    to be on the lookout for that. If you have had many flu shots,
    and no throat swelling issues ten minutes later, it's likely "safe".
    I don't see why the current flu shot would cause a problem. Only
    if it was based on an entirely new method (MRNA?), would I be concerned. >>>
    The joint pain, sounds like an autoimmune reaction.

    And it's not this one, because this one is numbness, rather than pain.

    https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/guillain-barre-syndrome/symptoms-causes/syc-20362793

    And I suppose you know that these days, it's hard for doctors
    to write scripts for pain killers. That then, becomes an issue
    when you have a legit pain problem. The doctors see so many
    people faking it, and just about all the doctors at my
    clinic, have lost the ability to write pain killer scripts.
    There seems to be zero tolerance for abuse of such scripts
    now, for the doctors here. I couldn't tell you what the
    rules are, what it takes to lose your script privileges.

    With the heart attack, did they do any work-up as to how occluded you are ? >>> Three days is hardly any time to do anything. I think they have two CTs
    at my hospital, one for scheduled scans, and one for emergencies. The queue for
    the scheduled scans is five months long. I've seen a short video of my
    heart beating, it looks terrible :-)

    The problem with these machines, is the scans take a while, so they can't >>> do too many per day.

    It sounds like you could really do with a diagnosis first. If it is
    an autoimmune reaction, then they should work on that, to try and
    correct your pain problem. My brother has an autoimmune problem
    and he is immune suppressed. And it took several tries, to find a
    treatment that he could tolerate. He likes the stuff he has now,
    which is good. (Likes it, in the sense that it works.)

    There are different kinds of immune suppression, and some are
    more serious than others (like bubble-boy bad).

        Paul




    I'm still in extreme pain all over,.. at first my hands and feet swelled
    up and were very painful with pins and needles and hives.

    Now my entire body is in pain and all joints,.. I went to ER (4) times
    and they ran all the tests and EKG's but did nothing and all they would
    give me was Tylenol except the last time a doctor gave me morphine but
    even that didn't help. I have a appointment with the pain clinic the 15th
    but am in agony till then and hope they'll help. They caused this.

    They did do all the scans and I saw my heart beating etc and it all looked >> fine. I was doing OK until I got the damn shots.

    I don't know what I have,. I hope it isn't Gullain-Barre-Syndrome. the doctor
    said its associated with my immune system building antibodies which could
    take a month. In the meantime I'm going through living hell here...

    Yeah doctors are very leery about writing pain killers but I'm in real pain >> and suffering here and hope they do something to help. They didn't seem
    to care all that much in the ER.

    Robert

    https://shingrixhcp.com/

    "In a postmarketing observational study, an increased risk of Guillain-Barré
    syndrome was observed during the 42 days following vaccination with SHINGRIX"

    That is part of why I picked that one out of the air for a check, since
    there is more than one vaccine associated with increased chance of GB.
    But GB can also happen out of the blue (not related to vaccine), and it's probably just as much to do with your recent medical history ("sick with a virus")
    as it is with the vaccine itself. It's more of a correlation than a cause.

    And your symptoms are wrong for that (GB is numbness). It was just an example that I remembered,
    nothing more.

    But an autoimmune response is not a normal immune response. it is an over-response.
    It's possible to suppress it, but back in the COVID era, it took quite a while
    before they figured out what treatment was in the right ballpark for such a situation.
    You may remember, the original COVID filled the lungs with fluid, and I think that's
    partially the body attacking its own lung tissue. At the time, someone wanted to
    suppress the response (stop the lungs filling with fluid), and there were
    a few theories as to which of several compounds might work. But that was a research topic, and by the time they had sorted through the information,
    the COVID had mutated to a different set of symptoms. You might notice today, there are no longer descriptions of the old treatment practices anywhere in the news.

    But in any case, there is more than one compound to suppress the response. There are drugs that are a general suppression of immunity, where there
    is an increased risk of you picking up diseases while out in public.
    There are also compounds, that don't have quite the same broad spectrum response. My brother is immune suppressed (I think it might be a triangular shaped compound), yet he doesn't have the same risk of picking up stuff in public. His treatment is for rheumatoid arthritis.

    Your symptoms on the other hand, seem almost similar to shingles. But that
    is not joint pain. I think Shingles is a skin-level pain.

    "Most people with shingles experience a localised band of pain in the
    affected area. The pain may be a constant, dull or burning sensation
    and its intensity can vary from mild to severe. You may have sharp
    stabbing pains from time to time, and the affected area of skin will
    usually be tender."

    The second Shingrex of course, is the one that is a rat bastard. It
    was in my case (arm did not swell on first one, arm definitely ballooned up on the second one).

    And we know this isn't it, because this is a description way lower on
    the pain scale. This isn't a nerve sheath pain. Just pressure from imflammation on a joint.

    https://www.healthline.com/health/shingrix-side-effects-second-dose#muscle-pain

    "Joint pain

    Joint pain, also called arthralgia, is a potential side effect of Shingrix
    that commonly occurs with muscle pain. This type of pain after a vaccine is
    generally due to a temporary increase in inflammation, which can affect the
    fluid around the joints.

    Like muscle pain, taking an OTC pain reliever can help reduce joint pain
    from the vaccine."

    I tried the same kind of searches on flu vaccine, and they mention the stirring up of arthritis. But again, that's not the description of yours.
    You are on fire, and I'm not getting a good match for that.

    I hope for your sake, a "pain clinic" has the right kind of specialist
    for this. You need an internal medicine specialist who knows about
    autoimmune responses.

    "Here are some specialists who treat autoimmune diseases:

    Nephrologist. A doctor who treats kidney problems, such as inflamed kidneys caused by lupus.
    Rheumatologist. A doctor who treats arthritis and other rheumatic diseases, such as scleroderma and lupus.
    Endocrinologist. A doctor who treats gland and hormone problems, such as diabetes and thyroid disease.

    Neurologist. A doctor who treats nerve problems, such as multiple sclerosis and myasthenia gravis.

    Hematologist. A doctor who treats diseases that affect blood, such as some forms of anemia.
    Gastroenterologist. A doctor who treats problems with the digestive system, such as inflammatory bowel disease.
    Dermatologist. A doctor who treats diseases that affect the skin, hair, and nails, such as psoriasis and lupus.
    Physical therapist. A health care worker who uses proper types of physical activity to help patients
    with stiffness, weakness, and restricted body movement.
    "

    So maybe that is who you will be seeing, is a neurologist ?

    Paul



    Well I hope the pain clinic will give me something to suppress the
    vacine response because I'm in real pain here. I used all my Oxycodone
    and didn't do a thing or the small amount of morphine the last ER doctor
    gave me which did nothing and have been using ice packs to numb the pain.

    Yeah is seems I have shingles,.. I feel it in my hands, wrists,
    shoulders and right knee mainly. It's a burning sensation with sharp
    stabbing pains and there is some swelling of my fingers and yes it is
    tender especially the right knee. I also sweat allot.

    I've had this going on 3 weeks now,.. its been pretty hard to cope with.

    I don't know who will be seeing me at the Pain Clinic but at least they
    will have access to all the medication and hopefully the expertise to
    deal with the problem that they caused. My guess is that they'll have a specialist on hand at least a neurologist.

    Thanks for all the good links and information,.. I'm just hanging on
    till the 15th and hope they can do something to help relieve the burning
    pain and end this.

    Robert


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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Nov 11 00:55:20 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 11/9/2024 8:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 11/1/2024 10:09 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Completed mrimgs , computers are running well

    780

    https://postimg.cc/ThK2qGCB

    8500

    https://postimg.cc/DST2TGnK


    I had a heart attack and spent 3 days in ICU at the VA from the 8-10th of this month and then a week later I saw my primary  doctor for my annual checkup and got my flu and shingles shots. Unfortunately, I had a allergic reaction to the flu shot
    and my hands and feet swelled up and had pins and needles pain, and itchy hives. I also had a reaction to the shingles and all my joints are screaming in pain,... I'm on medication but will run out soon. I've been to the ER (4) times since the ICU and
    have a appointment for the pain clinic on Nov15th

    So lots of pain,......

    Robert

    I could have warned you about the shingles.

    That shingles, the second shot made the top section of my
    arm swell up. I didn't have any more vaccines in that
    arm for a while, because I didn't know if it was safe or not.

    If you had a chance to pass on the info, I would have recommended
    against it. The doctor should also known the shingles pair is
    not a joke, and should not be administered to people who have
    already been through a lot. That's the kind of shot, you wait
    until you're good and healthy before trying it.

    The flu shot can cause a histamine reaction, because the flu shot
    is based on eggs. People with an allergy or reaction to eggs, have
    to be on the lookout for that. If you have had many flu shots,
    and no throat swelling issues ten minutes later, it's likely "safe".
    I don't see why the current flu shot would cause a problem. Only
    if it was based on an entirely new method (MRNA?), would I be concerned. >>>
    The joint pain, sounds like an autoimmune reaction.

    And it's not this one, because this one is numbness, rather than pain.

    https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/guillain-barre-syndrome/symptoms-causes/syc-20362793

    And I suppose you know that these days, it's hard for doctors
    to write scripts for pain killers. That then, becomes an issue
    when you have a legit pain problem. The doctors see so many
    people faking it, and just about all the doctors at my
    clinic, have lost the ability to write pain killer scripts.
    There seems to be zero tolerance for abuse of such scripts
    now, for the doctors here. I couldn't tell you what the
    rules are, what it takes to lose your script privileges.

    With the heart attack, did they do any work-up as to how occluded you are ? >>> Three days is hardly any time to do anything. I think they have two CTs
    at my hospital, one for scheduled scans, and one for emergencies. The queue for
    the scheduled scans is five months long. I've seen a short video of my
    heart beating, it looks terrible :-)

    The problem with these machines, is the scans take a while, so they can't >>> do too many per day.

    It sounds like you could really do with a diagnosis first. If it is
    an autoimmune reaction, then they should work on that, to try and
    correct your pain problem. My brother has an autoimmune problem
    and he is immune suppressed. And it took several tries, to find a
    treatment that he could tolerate. He likes the stuff he has now,
    which is good. (Likes it, in the sense that it works.)

    There are different kinds of immune suppression, and some are
    more serious than others (like bubble-boy bad).

        Paul




    I'm still in extreme pain all over,.. at first my hands and feet swelled
    up and were very painful with pins and needles and hives.

    Now my entire body is in pain and all joints,.. I went to ER (4) times
    and they ran all the tests and EKG's but did nothing and all they would
    give me was Tylenol except the last time a doctor gave me morphine but
    even that didn't help. I have a appointment with the pain clinic the 15th
    but am in agony till then and hope they'll help. They caused this.

    They did do all the scans and I saw my heart beating etc and it all looked >> fine. I was doing OK until I got the damn shots.

    I don't know what I have,. I hope it isn't Gullain-Barre-Syndrome. the doctor
    said its associated with my immune system building antibodies which could
    take a month. In the meantime I'm going through living hell here...

    Yeah doctors are very leery about writing pain killers but I'm in real pain >> and suffering here and hope they do something to help. They didn't seem
    to care all that much in the ER.

    Robert

    https://shingrixhcp.com/

    "In a postmarketing observational study, an increased risk of Guillain-Barré
    syndrome was observed during the 42 days following vaccination with SHINGRIX"

    That is part of why I picked that one out of the air for a check, since
    there is more than one vaccine associated with increased chance of GB.
    But GB can also happen out of the blue (not related to vaccine), and it's probably just as much to do with your recent medical history ("sick with a virus")
    as it is with the vaccine itself. It's more of a correlation than a cause.

    And your symptoms are wrong for that (GB is numbness). It was just an example that I remembered,
    nothing more.

    But an autoimmune response is not a normal immune response. it is an over-response.
    It's possible to suppress it, but back in the COVID era, it took quite a while
    before they figured out what treatment was in the right ballpark for such a situation.
    You may remember, the original COVID filled the lungs with fluid, and I think that's
    partially the body attacking its own lung tissue. At the time, someone wanted to
    suppress the response (stop the lungs filling with fluid), and there were
    a few theories as to which of several compounds might work. But that was a research topic, and by the time they had sorted through the information,
    the COVID had mutated to a different set of symptoms. You might notice today, there are no longer descriptions of the old treatment practices anywhere in the news.

    But in any case, there is more than one compound to suppress the response. There are drugs that are a general suppression of immunity, where there
    is an increased risk of you picking up diseases while out in public.
    There are also compounds, that don't have quite the same broad spectrum response. My brother is immune suppressed (I think it might be a triangular shaped compound), yet he doesn't have the same risk of picking up stuff in public. His treatment is for rheumatoid arthritis.

    Your symptoms on the other hand, seem almost similar to shingles. But that
    is not joint pain. I think Shingles is a skin-level pain.

    "Most people with shingles experience a localised band of pain in the
    affected area. The pain may be a constant, dull or burning sensation
    and its intensity can vary from mild to severe. You may have sharp
    stabbing pains from time to time, and the affected area of skin will
    usually be tender."

    The second Shingrex of course, is the one that is a rat bastard. It
    was in my case (arm did not swell on first one, arm definitely ballooned up on the second one).

    And we know this isn't it, because this is a description way lower on
    the pain scale. This isn't a nerve sheath pain. Just pressure from imflammation on a joint.

    https://www.healthline.com/health/shingrix-side-effects-second-dose#muscle-pain

    "Joint pain

    Joint pain, also called arthralgia, is a potential side effect of Shingrix
    that commonly occurs with muscle pain. This type of pain after a vaccine is
    generally due to a temporary increase in inflammation, which can affect the
    fluid around the joints.

    Like muscle pain, taking an OTC pain reliever can help reduce joint pain
    from the vaccine."

    I tried the same kind of searches on flu vaccine, and they mention the stirring up of arthritis. But again, that's not the description of yours.
    You are on fire, and I'm not getting a good match for that.

    I hope for your sake, a "pain clinic" has the right kind of specialist
    for this. You need an internal medicine specialist who knows about
    autoimmune responses.

    "Here are some specialists who treat autoimmune diseases:

    Nephrologist. A doctor who treats kidney problems, such as inflamed kidneys caused by lupus.
    Rheumatologist. A doctor who treats arthritis and other rheumatic diseases, such as scleroderma and lupus.
    Endocrinologist. A doctor who treats gland and hormone problems, such as diabetes and thyroid disease.

    Neurologist. A doctor who treats nerve problems, such as multiple sclerosis and myasthenia gravis.

    Hematologist. A doctor who treats diseases that affect blood, such as some forms of anemia.
    Gastroenterologist. A doctor who treats problems with the digestive system, such as inflammatory bowel disease.
    Dermatologist. A doctor who treats diseases that affect the skin, hair, and nails, such as psoriasis and lupus.
    Physical therapist. A health care worker who uses proper types of physical activity to help patients
    with stiffness, weakness, and restricted body movement.
    "

    So maybe that is who you will be seeing, is a neurologist ?

    Paul



    I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,..
    it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning
    to see if it will help.

    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Mon Nov 11 20:46:14 2024
    On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,..
    it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning
    to see if it will help.

    Robert

    But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.

    It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.

    Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms.

    I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
    diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Nov 8 00:47:16 2024
    On Fri, 11/1/2024 10:09 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Completed mrimgs , computers are running well

    780

    https://postimg.cc/ThK2qGCB

    8500

    https://postimg.cc/DST2TGnK


    I had a heart attack and spent 3 days in ICU at the VA from the 8-10th of this month and then a week later I saw my primary  doctor for my annual checkup and got my flu and shingles shots. Unfortunately, I had a allergic reaction to the flu shot and
    my hands and feet swelled up and had pins and needles pain, and itchy hives. I also had a reaction to the shingles and all my joints are screaming in pain,... I'm on medication but will run out soon. I've been to the ER (4) times since the ICU and have a
    appointment for the pain clinic on Nov15th

    So lots of pain,......

    Robert

    I could have warned you about the shingles.

    That shingles, the second shot made the top section of my
    arm swell up. I didn't have any more vaccines in that
    arm for a while, because I didn't know if it was safe or not.

    If you had a chance to pass on the info, I would have recommended
    against it. The doctor should also known the shingles pair is
    not a joke, and should not be administered to people who have
    already been through a lot. That's the kind of shot, you wait
    until you're good and healthy before trying it.

    The flu shot can cause a histamine reaction, because the flu shot
    is based on eggs. People with an allergy or reaction to eggs, have
    to be on the lookout for that. If you have had many flu shots,
    and no throat swelling issues ten minutes later, it's likely "safe".
    I don't see why the current flu shot would cause a problem. Only
    if it was based on an entirely new method (MRNA?), would I be concerned.

    The joint pain, sounds like an autoimmune reaction.

    And it's not this one, because this one is numbness, rather than pain.

    https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/guillain-barre-syndrome/symptoms-causes/syc-20362793

    And I suppose you know that these days, it's hard for doctors
    to write scripts for pain killers. That then, becomes an issue
    when you have a legit pain problem. The doctors see so many
    people faking it, and just about all the doctors at my
    clinic, have lost the ability to write pain killer scripts.
    There seems to be zero tolerance for abuse of such scripts
    now, for the doctors here. I couldn't tell you what the
    rules are, what it takes to lose your script privileges.

    With the heart attack, did they do any work-up as to how occluded you are ? Three days is hardly any time to do anything. I think they have two CTs
    at my hospital, one for scheduled scans, and one for emergencies. The queue for the scheduled scans is five months long. I've seen a short video of my
    heart beating, it looks terrible :-)

    The problem with these machines, is the scans take a while, so they can't
    do too many per day.

    It sounds like you could really do with a diagnosis first. If it is
    an autoimmune reaction, then they should work on that, to try and
    correct your pain problem. My brother has an autoimmune problem
    and he is immune suppressed. And it took several tries, to find a
    treatment that he could tolerate. He likes the stuff he has now,
    which is good. (Likes it, in the sense that it works.)

    There are different kinds of immune suppression, and some are
    more serious than others (like bubble-boy bad).

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Nov 12 00:22:06 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,..
    it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning
    to see if it will help.

    Robert

    But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.

    It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.

    Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms.

    I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
    diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.

    Paul



    Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
    the pain,.

    I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
    who can help. The ER was a joke,..

    Robert



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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Nov 12 06:28:09 2024
    On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,..
    it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning
    to see if it will help.

    Robert

    But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.

    It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.

    Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms.

    I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
    diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.

        Paul



    Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
    the pain,.

    I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
    who can help. The ER was a joke,..

     Robert

    I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.

    In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
    affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
    disease they had before.

    A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral
    and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff.
    Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve,
    and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.

    In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack
    which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was
    indirectly affecting your immune system.

    Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system. Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point.
    Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.

    Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence.
    A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might
    be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.

    Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
    won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
    75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
    declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
    a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
    or someone passing away.

    The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage" when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing.
    It will take time for (natural) recovery.

    A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your
    second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
    instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles,
    it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a
    robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
    for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.

    It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you
    only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
    and would still leave you vulnerable.

    I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus
    of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets,
    that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't
    go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Nov 13 18:23:10 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,..
    it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning
    to see if it will help.

    Robert

    But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.

    It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.

    Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms.

    I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
    diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.

        Paul



    Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
    the pain,.

    I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
    who can help. The ER was a joke,..

     Robert

    I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.

    In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
    affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
    disease they had before.

    A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral
    and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve,
    and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.

    In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was indirectly affecting your immune system.

    Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system. Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.

    Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence.
    A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might
    be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.

    Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
    won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
    75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
    declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
    a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
    or someone passing away.

    The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage" when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing.
    It will take time for (natural) recovery.

    A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your
    second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
    instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles, it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a
    robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
    for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.

    It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you
    only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
    and would still leave you vulnerable.

    I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus
    of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets,
    that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't
    go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before.

    Paul




    I had contacted my primary doctor about stopping smoking and
    that I had appointment with the pain clinic on the 15th and he said
    there's little that could be done for nerve pain.

    I replied that I was fine until I had the shingles shot and now I'm
    suffering 24/7 with burning pain and that the VA should be more
    careful giving these shots.

    I know what you mean,.. I went outside for a bit and picked up a
    slight chill that turned into a cold that I've fought off since. I feel
    better now but I have to be careful because I take medication for
    my thyroid because my immune system is dysfunctional and that's
    another reason this happened. My immune system wasn't ready for
    shingles.

    Well, coming out of ICU after my heart attack before the shots
    didn't help matters. I think to doctors were just guinea pigs and they
    really don't know all the answers and just shrug it off but this vaccine
    sure has one hell of a kick for side effects!.

    I just hope the pain clinic offers some relief from the burning pain,.


    Robert



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Nov 15 18:23:59 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,..
    it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning
    to see if it will help.

    Robert

    But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.

    It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.

    Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms.

    I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
    diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.

        Paul



    Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
    the pain,.

    I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
    who can help. The ER was a joke,..

     Robert

    I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.

    In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
    affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
    disease they had before.

    A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral
    and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve,
    and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.

    In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was indirectly affecting your immune system.

    Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system. Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.

    Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence.
    A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might
    be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.

    Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
    won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
    75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
    declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
    a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
    or someone passing away.

    The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage" when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing.
    It will take time for (natural) recovery.

    A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your
    second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
    instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles, it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a
    robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
    for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.

    It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you
    only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
    and would still leave you vulnerable.

    I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus
    of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets,
    that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't
    go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before.

    Paul


    I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
    Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
    for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
    appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
    it.

    The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
    an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
    these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
    at the same time.

    I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
    Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.

    I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
    medication will work.

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Nov 17 04:29:40 2024
    On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>> to see if it will help.

    Robert

    But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.

    It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.

    Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms.

    I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
    diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.

         Paul



    Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
    the pain,.

    I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
    who can help. The ER was a joke,..

      Robert

    I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.

    In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
    affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
    disease they had before.

    A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral
    and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff.
    Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve,
    and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.

    In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack
    which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was
    indirectly affecting your immune system.

    Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system. >> Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping >> point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point.
    Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.

    Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence.
    A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might
    be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.

    Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
    won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
    75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
    declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
    a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
    or someone passing away.

    The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage" >> when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing.
    It will take time for (natural) recovery.

    A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your
    second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
    instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles, >> it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a
    robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
    for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.

    It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you
    only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
    and would still leave you vulnerable.

    I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus
    of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets,
    that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not
    communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't
    go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before.

        Paul


    I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
    Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
    for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
    appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
    it.

    The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
    an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
    these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
    at the same time.

    I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
    Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.

    I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
    medication will work.

    Robert


    allergist

    Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
    shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
    tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
    (any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
    I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
    year or not.

    An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
    if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
    nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
    to understand that, because it may indicate something about
    my immune system.

    There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
    year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
    epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
    is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
    *catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
    too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
    of being eradicated.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Nov 17 03:19:36 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>> to see if it will help.

    Robert

    But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.

    It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.

    Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>
    I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
    diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.

         Paul



    Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
    the pain,.

    I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
    who can help. The ER was a joke,..

      Robert

    I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.

    In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
    affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
    disease they had before.

    A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral
    and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.

    In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was
    indirectly affecting your immune system.

    Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
    Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
    point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.

    Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence.
    A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might
    be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.

    Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
    won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
    75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
    declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
    a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
    or someone passing away.

    The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
    when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.

    A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your
    second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
    instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles, >>> it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a
    robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
    for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.

    It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you
    only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
    and would still leave you vulnerable.

    I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus
    of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets,
    that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not
    communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't
    go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before.

        Paul


    I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
    Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
    for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
    appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
    it.

    The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
    an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
    these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
    at the same time.

    I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
    Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.

    I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
    medication will work.

    Robert


    allergist

    Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
    shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
    tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
    (any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
    I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
    year or not.

    An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
    if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
    nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
    to understand that, because it may indicate something about
    my immune system.

    There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
    year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
    epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
    is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
    *catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
    too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
    of being eradicated.

    Paul


    Well at this point I am just taking the first steps,.. they never start
    you on what really works but instead start with Tylenol and baby
    aspirin and the like then work their way up. The allergist was suggested
    by the doctor because he wasn't sure what I'm reacting to either the
    flu shot or the shingle shot and I suppose that helps determine the
    treatment/ medication. He also saw that my primary put both down
    on my chart that I'm allergic to because I told him I never want to go
    through this again. No appointment has been made yet though.

    I'm doubling my dosage starting tomorrow according to the prescription
    and have a phone appointment next Wednesday to see if its working or
    they need to try something else. I'm using ice packs to help numb the pain
    and I go back to the VA today for a CT scan and again next week for a
    vascular test.

    Also I may get an ipad out of the deal for free paid by the VA so its not
    all bad although I don't know how to use them.

    btw on SeaMonkey page it says were using an older version 2.53.1.2 and
    a newer version is available 2.53.19 however I'm very leery of changing
    things because we might loose our connection. Also since you haven't
    mention it I assume were OK as is, correct?


    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Nov 20 04:47:30 2024
    On Sun, 11/17/2024 6:19 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>>> to see if it will help.

    Robert

    But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.

    It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.

    Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>>
    I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
    diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.

          Paul



    Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
    the pain,.

    I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
    who can help. The ER was a joke,..

       Robert

    I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.

    In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
    affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
    disease they had before.

    A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral
    and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.

    In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was
    indirectly affecting your immune system.

    Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
    Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
    point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.

    Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence. >>>> A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might >>>> be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.

    Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
    won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
    75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
    declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
    a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
    or someone passing away.

    The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
    when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.

    A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your >>>> second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
    instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles, >>>> it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a
    robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
    for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.

    It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you >>>> only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
    and would still leave you vulnerable.

    I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus
    of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets,
    that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not
    communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't >>>> go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before.

         Paul


    I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
    Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
    for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
    appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
    it.

    The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
    an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
    these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
    at the same time.

    I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
    Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.

    I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
    medication will work.

    Robert


    allergist

    Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
    shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
    tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
    (any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
    I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
    year or not.

    An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
    if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
    nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
    to understand that, because it may indicate something about
    my immune system.

    There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
    year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
    epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
    is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
    *catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
    too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
    of being eradicated.

        Paul


    Well at this point I am just taking the first steps,.. they never start
    you on what really works but instead start with Tylenol and baby
    aspirin and the like then work their way up. The allergist was suggested
    by the doctor because he wasn't sure what I'm reacting to either the
    flu shot or the shingle shot and I suppose that helps determine the treatment/ medication.  He also saw that my primary put both down
    on my chart that I'm allergic to because I told him I never want to go through this again. No appointment has been made yet though.

    I'm doubling my dosage starting tomorrow according to the prescription
    and have a phone appointment next Wednesday to see if its working or
    they need to try something else. I'm using ice packs to help numb the pain and I go back to the VA today for a CT scan and again next week for a vascular test.

    Also I may get an ipad out of the deal for free paid by the VA so its not
    all bad although I don't know how to use them.

    btw on SeaMonkey page it says were using an older version 2.53.1.2 and
    a newer version is available 2.53.19 however I'm very leery of changing things because we might loose our connection. Also since you haven't
    mention it I assume were OK as is, correct?


    Robert

    I'm currently using Seamonkey 2.53.19 . I use the browser a lot during the day.

    The iPad will be loads of fun. I wonder what Apple software they
    badly want to run, to give you one of those ? Does it have a camera
    for video conferencing ? You might need a router having Wifi,
    to get a network connection. I don't know if an iPad has Ethernet.

    I'm just surprised with your history and symptoms, they don't have
    a "prime candidate" for your medical condition. My doctors have
    always been quick to jump to conclusions without evidence :-)

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Nov 20 21:58:28 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 11/17/2024 6:19 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>>>> to see if it will help.

    Robert

    But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.

    It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.

    Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>>>
    I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
    diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.

          Paul



    Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
    the pain,.

    I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
    who can help. The ER was a joke,..

       Robert

    I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.

    In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
    affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
    disease they had before.

    A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral >>>>> and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>>>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>>>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.

    In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>>>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was >>>>> indirectly affecting your immune system.

    Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
    Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
    point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>>>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.

    Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence. >>>>> A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might >>>>> be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.

    Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
    won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
    75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
    declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
    a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
    or someone passing away.

    The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
    when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>>>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.

    A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your >>>>> second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
    instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles,
    it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a >>>>> robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
    for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.

    It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you >>>>> only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
    and would still leave you vulnerable.

    I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus >>>>> of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets, >>>>> that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not >>>>> communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't >>>>> go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before. >>>>>
         Paul


    I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
    Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
    for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
    appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
    it.

    The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
    an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
    these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
    at the same time.

    I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
    Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.

    I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
    medication will work.

    Robert


    allergist

    Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
    shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
    tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
    (any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
    I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
    year or not.

    An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
    if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
    nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
    to understand that, because it may indicate something about
    my immune system.

    There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
    year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
    epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
    is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
    *catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
    too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
    of being eradicated.

        Paul


    Well at this point I am just taking the first steps,.. they never start
    you on what really works but instead start with Tylenol and baby
    aspirin and the like then work their way up. The allergist was suggested
    by the doctor because he wasn't sure what I'm reacting to either the
    flu shot or the shingle shot and I suppose that helps determine the
    treatment/ medication.  He also saw that my primary put both down
    on my chart that I'm allergic to because I told him I never want to go
    through this again. No appointment has been made yet though.

    I'm doubling my dosage starting tomorrow according to the prescription
    and have a phone appointment next Wednesday to see if its working or
    they need to try something else. I'm using ice packs to help numb the pain >> and I go back to the VA today for a CT scan and again next week for a
    vascular test.

    Also I may get an ipad out of the deal for free paid by the VA so its not
    all bad although I don't know how to use them.

    btw on SeaMonkey page it says were using an older version 2.53.1.2 and
    a newer version is available 2.53.19 however I'm very leery of changing
    things because we might loose our connection. Also since you haven't
    mention it I assume were OK as is, correct?


    Robert

    I'm currently using Seamonkey 2.53.19 . I use the browser a lot during the day.

    The iPad will be loads of fun. I wonder what Apple software they
    badly want to run, to give you one of those ? Does it have a camera
    for video conferencing ? You might need a router having Wifi,
    to get a network connection. I don't know if an iPad has Ethernet.

    I'm just surprised with your history and symptoms, they don't have
    a "prime candidate" for your medical condition. My doctors have
    always been quick to jump to conclusions without evidence :-)

    Paul



    Do you want me to click the download for Seamonkey 2.53.19 ? As
    I said I'm very leery,.. of doing so,.. I'll try it on the 780 first to
    see if it works OK and let you know.

    I had my phone appointment with doctor today and am tripling my
    medication of Gamapentin to 900mg 3 times a day along with the
    inflammatory medication and he's ordered new medication for me.

    I asked about the Ipad and he said he's put a request in for me. I don't
    know what features it has. It's all totally new to me but will let you
    know when and if I get it. Supposedly the VA will pay for the connection
    with Verizon.

    Agreed,. my doctor conferred with another doctor during my call today to
    come up with a solution for my pain issue. They never start with what
    works but try this and that and work up to a medication that actually
    does. They don't seem to know what they are doing at times because it
    works for most patients until they get someone like me and my symptoms
    where it doesn't.

    Robert


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Nov 20 22:48:03 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 11/17/2024 6:19 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>>>> to see if it will help.

    Robert

    But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.

    It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.

    Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>>>
    I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
    diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.

          Paul



    Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
    the pain,.

    I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
    who can help. The ER was a joke,..

       Robert

    I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.

    In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
    affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
    disease they had before.

    A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral >>>>> and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>>>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>>>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.

    In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>>>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was >>>>> indirectly affecting your immune system.

    Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
    Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
    point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>>>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.

    Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence. >>>>> A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might >>>>> be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.

    Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
    won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
    75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
    declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
    a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
    or someone passing away.

    The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
    when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>>>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.

    A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your >>>>> second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
    instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles,
    it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a >>>>> robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
    for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.

    It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you >>>>> only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
    and would still leave you vulnerable.

    I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus >>>>> of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets, >>>>> that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not >>>>> communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't >>>>> go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before. >>>>>
         Paul


    I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
    Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
    for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
    appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
    it.

    The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
    an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
    these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
    at the same time.

    I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
    Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.

    I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
    medication will work.

    Robert


    allergist

    Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
    shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
    tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
    (any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
    I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
    year or not.

    An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
    if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
    nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
    to understand that, because it may indicate something about
    my immune system.

    There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
    year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
    epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
    is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
    *catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
    too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
    of being eradicated.

        Paul


    Well at this point I am just taking the first steps,.. they never start
    you on what really works but instead start with Tylenol and baby
    aspirin and the like then work their way up. The allergist was suggested
    by the doctor because he wasn't sure what I'm reacting to either the
    flu shot or the shingle shot and I suppose that helps determine the
    treatment/ medication.  He also saw that my primary put both down
    on my chart that I'm allergic to because I told him I never want to go
    through this again. No appointment has been made yet though.

    I'm doubling my dosage starting tomorrow according to the prescription
    and have a phone appointment next Wednesday to see if its working or
    they need to try something else. I'm using ice packs to help numb the pain >> and I go back to the VA today for a CT scan and again next week for a
    vascular test.

    Also I may get an ipad out of the deal for free paid by the VA so its not
    all bad although I don't know how to use them.

    btw on SeaMonkey page it says were using an older version 2.53.1.2 and
    a newer version is available 2.53.19 however I'm very leery of changing
    things because we might loose our connection. Also since you haven't
    mention it I assume were OK as is, correct?


    Robert

    I'm currently using Seamonkey 2.53.19 . I use the browser a lot during the day.

    The iPad will be loads of fun. I wonder what Apple software they
    badly want to run, to give you one of those ? Does it have a camera
    for video conferencing ? You might need a router having Wifi,
    to get a network connection. I don't know if an iPad has Ethernet.

    I'm just surprised with your history and symptoms, they don't have
    a "prime candidate" for your medical condition. My doctors have
    always been quick to jump to conclusions without evidence :-)

    Paul




    This is a test on the 780 to see if the 2.53.19 works,..
    I tried to get the solani account working but it hangs up
    in managaing accounts. I type in microsoft.public.windowsxp.g
    and nothing happens. What am I doing wrong? This is just what
    I feared would happen.



    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Nov 20 23:37:57 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 11/17/2024 6:19 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>>>> to see if it will help.

    Robert

    But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.

    It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.

    Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>>>
    I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
    diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.

          Paul



    Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
    the pain,.

    I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
    who can help. The ER was a joke,..

       Robert

    I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.

    In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
    affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
    disease they had before.

    A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral >>>>> and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>>>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>>>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.

    In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>>>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was >>>>> indirectly affecting your immune system.

    Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
    Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
    point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>>>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.

    Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence. >>>>> A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might >>>>> be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.

    Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
    won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
    75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
    declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
    a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
    or someone passing away.

    The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
    when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>>>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.

    A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your >>>>> second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
    instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles,
    it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a >>>>> robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
    for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.

    It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you >>>>> only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
    and would still leave you vulnerable.

    I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus >>>>> of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets, >>>>> that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not >>>>> communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't >>>>> go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before. >>>>>
         Paul


    I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
    Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
    for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
    appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
    it.

    The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
    an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
    these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
    at the same time.

    I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
    Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.

    I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
    medication will work.

    Robert


    allergist

    Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
    shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
    tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
    (any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
    I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
    year or not.

    An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
    if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
    nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
    to understand that, because it may indicate something about
    my immune system.

    There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
    year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
    epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
    is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
    *catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
    too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
    of being eradicated.

        Paul


    Well at this point I am just taking the first steps,.. they never start
    you on what really works but instead start with Tylenol and baby
    aspirin and the like then work their way up. The allergist was suggested
    by the doctor because he wasn't sure what I'm reacting to either the
    flu shot or the shingle shot and I suppose that helps determine the
    treatment/ medication.  He also saw that my primary put both down
    on my chart that I'm allergic to because I told him I never want to go
    through this again. No appointment has been made yet though.

    I'm doubling my dosage starting tomorrow according to the prescription
    and have a phone appointment next Wednesday to see if its working or
    they need to try something else. I'm using ice packs to help numb the pain >> and I go back to the VA today for a CT scan and again next week for a
    vascular test.

    Also I may get an ipad out of the deal for free paid by the VA so its not
    all bad although I don't know how to use them.

    btw on SeaMonkey page it says were using an older version 2.53.1.2 and
    a newer version is available 2.53.19 however I'm very leery of changing
    things because we might loose our connection. Also since you haven't
    mention it I assume were OK as is, correct?


    Robert

    I'm currently using Seamonkey 2.53.19 . I use the browser a lot during the day.

    The iPad will be loads of fun. I wonder what Apple software they
    badly want to run, to give you one of those ? Does it have a camera
    for video conferencing ? You might need a router having Wifi,
    to get a network connection. I don't know if an iPad has Ethernet.

    I'm just surprised with your history and symptoms, they don't have
    a "prime candidate" for your medical condition. My doctors have
    always been quick to jump to conclusions without evidence :-)

    Paul


    I clicked the download for 2.53.19 on the 780 and I was able to download
    the newer version of Seamonkey but I lost Solani in the process.

    I had forgotten all I had to do to create a new account,.. very
    stressful, but I
    had saved your links on how to do it but when I entered micosroft.public.windowsxp.g it gave me nothing. I must be doing something wrong.

    It does show Solani but it's all wrong and only goes to 1055 and did not
    give me a chance to increase it to 2000. I right clicked it to see if it
    would
    give me any options to managing the account.

    https://postimg.cc/yDLLMVrz

    https://postimg.cc/hzDTcxJy


    So for the present I'm not going to change the 8500 because this is just
    what I feared would happen. I also noticed I have another Seamonkey
    account on the 8500 that I don't remember installing nntp.aioe.general
    very strange,...

    https://postimg.cc/8s34BKfT

    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Nov 22 23:48:14 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 11/17/2024 6:19 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>>>> to see if it will help.

    Robert

    But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.

    It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.

    Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>>>
    I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
    diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.

          Paul



    Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
    the pain,.

    I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
    who can help. The ER was a joke,..

       Robert

    I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.

    In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
    affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
    disease they had before.

    A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral >>>>> and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>>>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>>>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.

    In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>>>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was >>>>> indirectly affecting your immune system.

    Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
    Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
    point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>>>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.

    Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence. >>>>> A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might >>>>> be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.

    Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
    won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
    75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
    declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
    a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
    or someone passing away.

    The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
    when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>>>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.

    A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your >>>>> second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
    instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles,
    it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a >>>>> robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
    for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.

    It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you >>>>> only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
    and would still leave you vulnerable.

    I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus >>>>> of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets, >>>>> that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not >>>>> communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't >>>>> go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before. >>>>>
         Paul


    I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
    Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
    for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
    appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
    it.

    The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
    an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
    these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
    at the same time.

    I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
    Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.

    I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
    medication will work.

    Robert


    allergist

    Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
    shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
    tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
    (any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
    I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
    year or not.

    An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
    if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
    nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
    to understand that, because it may indicate something about
    my immune system.

    There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
    year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
    epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
    is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
    *catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
    too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
    of being eradicated.

        Paul


    Well at this point I am just taking the first steps,.. they never start
    you on what really works but instead start with Tylenol and baby
    aspirin and the like then work their way up. The allergist was suggested
    by the doctor because he wasn't sure what I'm reacting to either the
    flu shot or the shingle shot and I suppose that helps determine the
    treatment/ medication.  He also saw that my primary put both down
    on my chart that I'm allergic to because I told him I never want to go
    through this again. No appointment has been made yet though.

    I'm doubling my dosage starting tomorrow according to the prescription
    and have a phone appointment next Wednesday to see if its working or
    they need to try something else. I'm using ice packs to help numb the pain >> and I go back to the VA today for a CT scan and again next week for a
    vascular test.

    Also I may get an ipad out of the deal for free paid by the VA so its not
    all bad although I don't know how to use them.

    btw on SeaMonkey page it says were using an older version 2.53.1.2 and
    a newer version is available 2.53.19 however I'm very leery of changing
    things because we might loose our connection. Also since you haven't
    mention it I assume were OK as is, correct?


    Robert

    I'm currently using Seamonkey 2.53.19 . I use the browser a lot during the day.

    The iPad will be loads of fun. I wonder what Apple software they
    badly want to run, to give you one of those ? Does it have a camera
    for video conferencing ? You might need a router having Wifi,
    to get a network connection. I don't know if an iPad has Ethernet.

    I'm just surprised with your history and symptoms, they don't have
    a "prime candidate" for your medical condition. My doctors have
    always been quick to jump to conclusions without evidence :-)

    Paul



    This is a test, for Solani

    apparently it works but I have to enter
    a name and password for it on the 780.
    '
    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Nov 23 06:07:12 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 11/17/2024 6:19 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>>>> to see if it will help.

    Robert

    But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.

    It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.

    Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>>>
    I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
    diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.

          Paul



    Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
    the pain,.

    I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
    who can help. The ER was a joke,..

       Robert

    I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.

    In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
    affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
    disease they had before.

    A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral >>>>> and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>>>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>>>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.

    In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>>>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was >>>>> indirectly affecting your immune system.

    Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
    Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
    point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>>>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.

    Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence. >>>>> A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might >>>>> be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.

    Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
    won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
    75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
    declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
    a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
    or someone passing away.

    The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
    when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>>>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.

    A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your >>>>> second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
    instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles,
    it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a >>>>> robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
    for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.

    It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you >>>>> only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
    and would still leave you vulnerable.

    I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus >>>>> of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets, >>>>> that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not >>>>> communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't >>>>> go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before. >>>>>
         Paul


    I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
    Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
    for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
    appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
    it.

    The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
    an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
    these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
    at the same time.

    I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
    Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.

    I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
    medication will work.

    Robert


    allergist

    Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
    shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
    tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
    (any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
    I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
    year or not.

    An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
    if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
    nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
    to understand that, because it may indicate something about
    my immune system.

    There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
    year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
    epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
    is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
    *catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
    too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
    of being eradicated.

        Paul


    Well at this point I am just taking the first steps,.. they never start
    you on what really works but instead start with Tylenol and baby
    aspirin and the like then work their way up. The allergist was suggested
    by the doctor because he wasn't sure what I'm reacting to either the
    flu shot or the shingle shot and I suppose that helps determine the
    treatment/ medication.  He also saw that my primary put both down
    on my chart that I'm allergic to because I told him I never want to go
    through this again. No appointment has been made yet though.

    I'm doubling my dosage starting tomorrow according to the prescription
    and have a phone appointment next Wednesday to see if its working or
    they need to try something else. I'm using ice packs to help numb the pain >> and I go back to the VA today for a CT scan and again next week for a
    vascular test.

    Also I may get an ipad out of the deal for free paid by the VA so its not
    all bad although I don't know how to use them.

    btw on SeaMonkey page it says were using an older version 2.53.1.2 and
    a newer version is available 2.53.19 however I'm very leery of changing
    things because we might loose our connection. Also since you haven't
    mention it I assume were OK as is, correct?


    Robert

    I'm currently using Seamonkey 2.53.19 . I use the browser a lot during the day.

    The iPad will be loads of fun. I wonder what Apple software they
    badly want to run, to give you one of those ? Does it have a camera
    for video conferencing ? You might need a router having Wifi,
    to get a network connection. I don't know if an iPad has Ethernet.

    I'm just surprised with your history and symptoms, they don't have
    a "prime candidate" for your medical condition. My doctors have
    always been quick to jump to conclusions without evidence :-)

    Paul

    I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
    on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
    Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?

    At any rate it seems to have worked.

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Nov 23 06:03:16 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 11/17/2024 6:19 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 11/15/2024 9:23 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 11/12/2024 3:22 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 11/11/2024 3:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found I had some Gabapentin left and tried taking some yesterday,.. >>>>>>>> it didn't do anything but make me drowsy. I took another this morning >>>>>>>> to see if it will help.

    Robert

    But the source of the problem, is not ordinary pain.

    It's sort of an attack on the communications network for pain.

    Only stopping the damage to the nerves, will quiet down the symptoms. >>>>>>>
    I'm hoping you'll be seeing someone who is familiar with the
    diseases or disorders that do this sort of attack.

          Paul



    Agreed, I was just trying whatever I had at hand to relieve
    the pain,.

    I'm just hanging in there and hope the pain clinic has someone
    who can help. The ER was a joke,..

       Robert

    I think your determination is right. That it's Shingles.

    In old people, any time there is a major stressor in life, it
    affects their immune status. They don't have the same immunity to
    disease they had before.

    A typical case, is you have a relative die, and you go to the funeral >>>>> and you're helping with the arrangements for the person and other stuff. >>>>> Maybe you get a really bad cold, and it takes weeks and weeks to resolve, >>>>> and it's because you don't have an immune system at that moment.

    In your case, we look back at your chronology, and it's the heart attack >>>>> which was the stressor. Not only was it affecting your heart, it was >>>>> indirectly affecting your immune system.

    Your getting the vaccines, that was a "test" of your depleted immune system.
    Then the Shingles rears up and does its thing. The vaccines were the tipping
    point, a challenge you didn't need. Anything could be the tipping point. >>>>> Maybe you get the flu, and a few days later, you get Shingles.

    Even though the name of the vaccine was Shingrex, that's a coincidence. >>>>> A vaccination for anything, which was powerful and had a "kick", might >>>>> be sufficient to allow the dormant Shingles to get the upper hand.

    Even when you have a Shingles vaccine, that is not a guarantee you
    won't get Shingles. Shingrex helps people, perhaps up to the age of
    75 or 80, but if the person lives longer than that, the vaccine
    declines in effectiveness with time, and so you could still have
    a Shingles event after a trauma. Whether it's a heart attack,
    or someone passing away.

    The stories I've heard, I don't think Shingles can be "pushed off the stage"
    when you get it. It's not like a course of antibiotics would do a thing. >>>>> It will take time for (natural) recovery.

    A doctor you're talking to, will also be able to estimate whether your >>>>> second dose of Shingrex will give you future immunity to Shingles
    instances. You can get Shingles more than once. Fighting off the Shingles,
    it's still circulating in your body and biding its time. If you had a >>>>> robust immune system, then the second Shingrex gives you protection
    for maybe ten years or so. It's not a guarantee it lasts forever.

    It's sorta like asking the question, what benefit would you get, if you >>>>> only had the first Shingrex vaccine. That's pretty weak by itself,
    and would still leave you vulnerable.

    I don't think my doctor was entirely honest about the plus and minus >>>>> of getting that vaccine pair. I could tell she was hedging her bets, >>>>> that on balance, it would be a good thing to get it. But she did not >>>>> communicate what a "kick" it would have. The arm swelling up. I didn't >>>>> go back to her and show her the arm. I expect she's seen that before. >>>>>
         Paul


    I went to the pain clinic and they prescribed more
    Gabapentin with increased dosage and Celecoxib
    for pain and inflammation and have set up a phone
    appointment for next week to see how I'm doing with
    it.

    The doctor also wants to set up a appointment with
    an allergist so see if its the flu shot that's giving me
    these reactions or the shingles because I had both shots
    at the same time.

    I go back this Sunday for a CT scan and then again on
    Tuesday for a Vascular Lab appointment.

    I don't feel any different,... but I hope over time the
    medication will work.

    Robert


    allergist

    Someone with a remote understanding of your reaction to the
    shots needs to see you. An allergist could for example,
    tell you not to get certain types of vaccines from now on
    (any vaccines that are prepared the same way as flu).
    I don't know if the flu preparation method was changed this
    year or not.

    An allergist can carry out sensitivity tests, but I wonder
    if that's even necessary. This is something attacking your
    nerves (the on-fire feeling), and as a patient, I would want
    to understand that, because it may indicate something about
    my immune system.

    There is one fewer flu type in the vaccine this
    year, because that type of flu was eradicated by the COVID
    epidemic. The reason they don't continue to put that one in,
    is it is attenuated material, and if someone were to actually
    *catch* the eradicated flu, it would be a disaster. It's
    too bad the other flu variants did not suffer the same fate,
    of being eradicated.

        Paul


    Well at this point I am just taking the first steps,.. they never start
    you on what really works but instead start with Tylenol and baby
    aspirin and the like then work their way up. The allergist was suggested
    by the doctor because he wasn't sure what I'm reacting to either the
    flu shot or the shingle shot and I suppose that helps determine the
    treatment/ medication.  He also saw that my primary put both down
    on my chart that I'm allergic to because I told him I never want to go
    through this again. No appointment has been made yet though.

    I'm doubling my dosage starting tomorrow according to the prescription
    and have a phone appointment next Wednesday to see if its working or
    they need to try something else. I'm using ice packs to help numb the pain >> and I go back to the VA today for a CT scan and again next week for a
    vascular test.

    Also I may get an ipad out of the deal for free paid by the VA so its not
    all bad although I don't know how to use them.

    btw on SeaMonkey page it says were using an older version 2.53.1.2 and
    a newer version is available 2.53.19 however I'm very leery of changing
    things because we might loose our connection. Also since you haven't
    mention it I assume were OK as is, correct?


    Robert

    I'm currently using Seamonkey 2.53.19 . I use the browser a lot during the day.

    The iPad will be loads of fun. I wonder what Apple software they
    badly want to run, to give you one of those ? Does it have a camera
    for video conferencing ? You might need a router having Wifi,
    to get a network connection. I don't know if an iPad has Ethernet.

    I'm just surprised with your history and symptoms, they don't have
    a "prime candidate" for your medical condition. My doctors have
    always been quick to jump to conclusions without evidence :-)

    Paul


    This is a test for the 8500:

    I downloaded the latest version of Seamokey on the 8500
    but it didn't for all the set up information like the 780. It
    was all there as before. I don't know if this is right or not.

    When I was going through the install process it said to close
    the current Seamonkey to proceed which I did but then nothing
    happened. I was in the process of reinstalling it but it acted like
    it was hung up so I closed it and saw that it had been updated
    to the newer version.

    Robert


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Bob on Sat Nov 23 19:35:30 2024
    On Thu, 11/21/2024 1:48 AM, Bob wrote:


    This is a test on the 780 to see if the 2.53.19 works,..
    I tried to get the solani account working but it hangs up
    in managaing accounts. I type in microsoft.public.windowsxp.g
    and nothing happens. What am I doing wrong? This is just what
    I feared would happen.

    Robert

    If you are configuring a new set up (not just carrying on
    from a previous 2.53.xx version), then you have to get the
    settings right.

    Just updating the browser in question, should not "break"
    the USENET News functions on it. The most it should do in
    that case, is screw up any automated password handling.

    Some news servers cancel accounts which are not used for a
    while, which is why you send posts through them every once
    in a while, to prevent automatic cancellation.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Nov 23 19:43:34 2024
    On Sat, 11/23/2024 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
    on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
    Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?

    At any rate it seems to have worked.

    Robert

    I have not noticed that happening. The zoom via scroll wheel
    has worked on the machines here when I've tested it.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Nov 23 19:41:40 2024
    On Sat, 11/23/2024 2:48 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    This is a test, for Solani

    apparently it works but I have to enter
    a name and password for it on the 780.
    '
    Robert


    Good, that's what I figured. If anything is to
    screw up, it'll be the password. The cert and key files
    are volatile. If they change the API, the version number
    on the end of those files change... but you have to
    re-enter the password (somehow).

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Nov 23 19:40:05 2024
    On Thu, 11/21/2024 2:37 AM, Robert in CA wrote:



    I clicked the download for 2.53.19 on the 780 and I was able to download
    the newer version of Seamonkey but I lost Solani in the process.

    I had forgotten all I had to do to create a new account,.. very stressful, but I
    had saved your links on how to do it but when I entered micosroft.public.windowsxp.g it gave me nothing. I must be doing something wrong.

    It does show Solani but it's all wrong and only goes to 1055 and did not
    give me a chance to increase it to 2000. I right clicked it to see if it would
    give me any options to managing the account.

    https://postimg.cc/yDLLMVrz

    https://postimg.cc/hzDTcxJy


    So for the present I'm not going to change the 8500 because this is just what I feared would happen.  I also noticed I have another Seamonkey account on the 8500 that I don't remember installing nntp.aioe.general very strange,...

     https://postimg.cc/8s34BKfT

    Robert

    The picture for the 780, it does not look like it is making connections.

    Are there any dialog boxes, or for that matter, messages at the
    bottom of the screen, indicating a failure ?

    You can make a backup copy of the Profile folder, in case you
    wanted to go back to the previous version of Seamonkey.

    Paul

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Nov 24 00:54:03 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 11/23/2024 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
    on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
    Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?

    At any rate it seems to have worked.

    Robert

    I have not noticed that happening. The zoom via scroll wheel
    has worked on the machines here when I've tested it.

    Paul


    On further reflection it probably has to do with the size of the
    monitors.I have a 15 inch monitor for the 780 and a 32 inch monitor
    for the 8500.So the zoom works on both but not to the same degree.

    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Nov 28 03:31:36 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 11/23/2024 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
    on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
    Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?

    At any rate it seems to have worked.

    Robert

    I have not noticed that happening. The zoom via scroll wheel
    has worked on the machines here when I've tested it.

    Paul




    Happy Thanksgiving

    I bought a cell phone a Straight Talk HMD from Walmart
    I still have to activate it with pin numbers and hope
    this will suffice for the VA and that I will still be
    able to use my landline phone as my primary.

    Robert





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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Nov 30 05:52:57 2024
    On Thu, 11/28/2024 6:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 11/23/2024 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
    on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
    Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?

    At any rate it seems to have worked.

    Robert

    I have not noticed that happening. The zoom via scroll wheel
    has worked on the machines here when I've tested it.

        Paul




    Happy Thanksgiving

    I bought a cell phone a Straight Talk HMD from Walmart
    I still have to activate it with pin numbers and hope
    this will suffice for the VA and that I will still be
    able to use my landline phone as my primary.

    Robert

    It lists LTE, so it'll probably work. Sometimes with bargains,
    the item is a bargain because it's no longer compatible with
    the cell towers or something.

    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/186153566057

    Operating System Android
    RAM 3 GB

    I guess that's a smartphone and not a flip phone,
    judging by the icons. I think one of the icons is Chrome.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Nov 30 19:59:15 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 11/28/2024 6:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 11/23/2024 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
    on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
    Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?

    At any rate it seems to have worked.

    Robert

    I have not noticed that happening. The zoom via scroll wheel
    has worked on the machines here when I've tested it.

        Paul




    Happy Thanksgiving

    I bought a cell phone a Straight Talk HMD from Walmart
    I still have to activate it with pin numbers and hope
    this will suffice for the VA and that I will still be
    able to use my landline phone as my primary.

    Robert

    It lists LTE, so it'll probably work. Sometimes with bargains,
    the item is a bargain because it's no longer compatible with
    the cell towers or something.

    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/186153566057

    Operating System Android
    RAM 3 GB

    I guess that's a smartphone and not a flip phone,
    judging by the icons. I think one of the icons is Chrome.

    Paul


    Well I haven't activated it yet,. I have to read up on it and activate
    with pin numbers and a phone number. I still think they are a pain
    in the ass.

    No it's not a flip phone,.. and then after getting it activated I have to
    go to the VA and have someone help me set up my new account with
    it. What a pain in the ass. All just to keep my online account. Jeeez

    Robert




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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 1 16:33:39 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 11/28/2024 6:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 11/23/2024 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
    on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
    Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?

    At any rate it seems to have worked.

    Robert

    I have not noticed that happening. The zoom via scroll wheel
    has worked on the machines here when I've tested it.

        Paul




    Happy Thanksgiving

    I bought a cell phone a Straight Talk HMD from Walmart
    I still have to activate it with pin numbers and hope
    this will suffice for the VA and that I will still be
    able to use my landline phone as my primary.

    Robert

    It lists LTE, so it'll probably work. Sometimes with bargains,
    the item is a bargain because it's no longer compatible with
    the cell towers or something.

    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/186153566057

    Operating System Android
    RAM 3 GB

    I guess that's a smartphone and not a flip phone,
    judging by the icons. I think one of the icons is Chrome.

    Paul




    I completed the mrimgs with no issues,..

    780

    https://postimg.cc/BXWtMw5v

    8500

    https://postimg.cc/5XbyMYRd


    Robert


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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Dec 2 06:00:48 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 11/28/2024 6:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 11/23/2024 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
    on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
    Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?

    At any rate it seems to have worked.

    Robert

    I have not noticed that happening. The zoom via scroll wheel
    has worked on the machines here when I've tested it.

        Paul




    Happy Thanksgiving

    I bought a cell phone a Straight Talk HMD from Walmart
    I still have to activate it with pin numbers and hope
    this will suffice for the VA and that I will still be
    able to use my landline phone as my primary.

    Robert

    It lists LTE, so it'll probably work. Sometimes with bargains,
    the item is a bargain because it's no longer compatible with
    the cell towers or something.

    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/186153566057

    Operating System Android
    RAM 3 GB

    I guess that's a smartphone and not a flip phone,
    judging by the icons. I think one of the icons is Chrome.

    Paul




    I just looked at the instructions to the cell phone,..
    man there's allot just to set this thing up !@ Jeez
    and this is supposed to be easier ?

    I won't need most of this stuff and they use Chrome?
    I hate Chrome.

    It really sucks I had to buy this just to stay connected
    online and now I have to figure this thing out.

    Robert



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Dec 2 10:51:56 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 11/28/2024 6:31 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 11/23/2024 9:07 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I also noticed I could not increase the size of the instructions
    on the 780 to view even when using Zoom + unlike the 8500.
    Does that have anything to do with the size of screen ?

    At any rate it seems to have worked.

    Robert

    I have not noticed that happening. The zoom via scroll wheel
    has worked on the machines here when I've tested it.

        Paul




    Happy Thanksgiving

    I bought a cell phone a Straight Talk HMD from Walmart
    I still have to activate it with pin numbers and hope
    this will suffice for the VA and that I will still be
    able to use my landline phone as my primary.

    Robert

    It lists LTE, so it'll probably work. Sometimes with bargains,
    the item is a bargain because it's no longer compatible with
    the cell towers or something.

    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/186153566057

    Operating System Android
    RAM 3 GB

    I guess that's a smartphone and not a flip phone,
    judging by the icons. I think one of the icons is Chrome.

    Paul




    I got the cell phone working and can call and text
    but what a pain in the ass!

    Anyways,.. I have the basic cell phone application
    for the VA phone and texting,.. I don't care about
    the rest.

    Robert


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Dec 3 05:12:11 2024
    On Mon, 12/2/2024 1:51 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I got the cell phone working and can call and text
    but what a pain in the ass!

    Anyways,.. I have the basic cell phone application
    for the VA phone and texting,.. I don't care about
    the rest.

    Robert

    That's some good work there.

    That's better than I could do.

    Paul

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Dec 3 18:01:26 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 12/2/2024 1:51 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I got the cell phone working and can call and text
    but what a pain in the ass!

    Anyways,.. I have the basic cell phone application
    for the VA phone and texting,.. I don't care about
    the rest.

    Robert

    That's some good work there.

    That's better than I could do.

    Paul



    My cell phone I bought wasn't charging,. so I had to replace it and it
    was a nightmare setting it up again and I still don't know if the damn
    thing is charging. I mean there's no indicators or anything. I mean how
    long does it take 1 hr ? 24 hrs? there's no way to tell? I have to
    remove the phone to check it but I did that with the other phone and it
    said it was 100% but it wasn't. I have battery chargers that have light indicators that turn green when its charged yet these phones do not have
    that.

    I have the call and text working but man,..I spent over an hour and had
    to go through 2 people to get it to work.

    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Dec 5 04:35:28 2024
    On Tue, 12/3/2024 9:01 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 12/2/2024 1:51 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I got the cell phone working and can call and text
    but what a pain in the ass!

    Anyways,.. I have the basic cell phone application
    for the VA phone and texting,.. I don't care about
    the rest.

    Robert

    That's some good work there.

    That's better than I could do.

        Paul



    My cell phone I bought wasn't charging,. so I had to replace it and it was a nightmare setting it up again and I still don't know if the damn thing is charging. I mean there's no indicators or anything. I mean how long does it take 1 hr ? 24 hrs? there'
    s no way to tell? I have to remove the phone to check it but I did that with the other phone and it said it was 100% but it wasn't. I have battery chargers that have light indicators that turn green when its charged yet these phones do not have that.

    I have the call and text working but man,..I spent over an hour and had to go through 2 people to get it to work.

    Robert

    https://s7d1.scene7.com/is/image/tracfone/Ph_Front_318x400_N159Vpng?scl=1&fmt=webp-alpha&qlt=80,0&resMode=sharp2&op_usm=1.75,0.3,2,0

    Check the upper right corner, for a battery icon.
    The picture resolution isn't so good, so I can't tell you how
    many bars the battery indicator has. The screen would need
    to be on for the battery icon to be visible on the main screen.
    The electronics know the percent charge, and showing you "bars"
    is not the total accuracy of the fuel gauge system.

    Anyway, poke at the icon there, and see if a better popup display
    is offered.

    Paul

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 5 07:25:00 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/3/2024 9:01 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 12/2/2024 1:51 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I got the cell phone working and can call and text
    but what a pain in the ass!

    Anyways,.. I have the basic cell phone application
    for the VA phone and texting,.. I don't care about
    the rest.

    Robert

    That's some good work there.

    That's better than I could do.

        Paul



    My cell phone I bought wasn't charging,. so I had to replace it and it was a nightmare setting it up again and I still don't know if the damn thing is charging. I mean there's no indicators or anything. I mean how long does it take 1 hr ? 24 hrs?
    there's no way to tell? I have to remove the phone to check it but I did that with the other phone and it said it was 100% but it wasn't. I have battery chargers that have light indicators that turn green when its charged yet these phones do not have
    that.

    I have the call and text working but man,..I spent over an hour and had to go through 2 people to get it to work.

    Robert

    https://s7d1.scene7.com/is/image/tracfone/Ph_Front_318x400_N159Vpng?scl=1&fmt=webp-alpha&qlt=80,0&resMode=sharp2&op_usm=1.75,0.3,2,0

    Check the upper right corner, for a battery icon.
    The picture resolution isn't so good, so I can't tell you how
    many bars the battery indicator has. The screen would need
    to be on for the battery icon to be visible on the main screen.
    The electronics know the percent charge, and showing you "bars"
    is not the total accuracy of the fuel gauge system.

    Anyway, poke at the icon there, and see if a better popup display
    is offered.

    Paul


    Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to
    the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try
    poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I
    hate even using the thing. and typing on it is a nightmare.

    My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24
    hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I
    need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot
    easier if they installed a green light indicator along with all their
    bells and whistles.

    Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new
    account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.

    Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking
    Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but
    neither have had any effect.

    Robert



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  • From John Dulak@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Dec 5 20:31:33 2024
    On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left
    of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see
    if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing.
    and typing on it is a nightmare.

    My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check
    the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.

    Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account
    with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.

    Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any
    effect.

    Robert

    Robert:

    A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine
    the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but
    the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully charged.

    As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while connected to the charger.

    The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.

    I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.

    Good Luck.

    And so it goes...

    John
    --
    \\\||/// ------------------o000----(o)(o)----000o---------------- ----------------------------()--------------------------
    '' Madness takes its toll - Please have exact change. ''

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to John Dulak on Mon Dec 9 10:04:53 2024
    On Thu, 12/5/2024 8:31 PM, John Dulak wrote:
    On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and typing
    on it is a nightmare.

    My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
    light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.

    Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.

    Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.

    Robert

    Robert:

    A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
    charged.

    As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while
    connected to the charger.

    The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.

    I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.

    Good Luck.

    And so it goes...

    John

    Empty 25 50 75 100%

    +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ The materials can be
    | | | | | | | | |---| different colors, to
    | | | | | | |---| |---| improve the contrast.
    | | | | |---| |---| |---|
    | | |---| |---| |---| |---| Time, from 25% bar appears
    +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ until 50% appears, as an estimate of "what a bar is worth"

    The charge time from 75 to 100, takes
    about as long as the time from 0-75.
    Which is why you may not be waiting for
    it to hit 100 each time.

    The measurement circuit has much higher
    accuracy than that. Using the bars scheme
    is for simplicity. A lot of devices
    with Lithium cells, they present a figure
    like "89%" instead of using bars.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Dec 9 19:47:37 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 12/5/2024 8:31 PM, John Dulak wrote:
    On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and typing
    on it is a nightmare.

    My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
    light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.

    Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.

    Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.

    Robert

    Robert:

    A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
    charged.

    As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while
    connected to the charger.

    The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.

    I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.

    Good Luck.

    And so it goes...

    John

    Empty 25 50 75 100%

    +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ The materials can be
    | | | | | | | | |---| different colors, to
    | | | | | | |---| |---| improve the contrast.
    | | | | |---| |---| |---|
    | | |---| |---| |---| |---| Time, from 25% bar appears
    +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ until 50% appears, as an estimate of "what a bar is worth"

    The charge time from 75 to 100, takes
    about as long as the time from 0-75.
    Which is why you may not be waiting for
    it to hit 100 each time.

    The measurement circuit has much higher
    accuracy than that. Using the bars scheme
    is for simplicity. A lot of devices
    with Lithium cells, they present a figure
    like "89%" instead of using bars.

    Paul



    Understood,...

    I have another issue with the cell phone,.....
    I went back to the VA but I need to have my cell phone connect
    with my email address before they can do anything..

    I clicked messages and was able to send a message to my other email
    account although it didn't say it was from this account but all scrabbled
    up and unrecognizable but the message was intact.

    So how do I proceed to add Yahoo.com to my cell phone? I clicked Gmail
    but didn't know how to proceed. When I was at the VA we had a screen of
    various emails to choose from. Maybe I need to click the Got It?

    https://postimg.cc/TLt9mq66

    https://postimg.cc/Z0TY5Pnq

    https://postimg.cc/CRJH9sRf

    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Dec 9 21:55:19 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 12/5/2024 8:31 PM, John Dulak wrote:
    On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and typing
    on it is a nightmare.

    My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
    light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.

    Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.

    Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.

    Robert

    Robert:

    A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
    charged.

    As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while
    connected to the charger.

    The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.

    I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.

    Good Luck.

    And so it goes...

    John

    Empty 25 50 75 100%

    +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ The materials can be
    | | | | | | | | |---| different colors, to
    | | | | | | |---| |---| improve the contrast.
    | | | | |---| |---| |---|
    | | |---| |---| |---| |---| Time, from 25% bar appears
    +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ until 50% appears, as an estimate of "what a bar is worth"

    The charge time from 75 to 100, takes
    about as long as the time from 0-75.
    Which is why you may not be waiting for
    it to hit 100 each time.

    The measurement circuit has much higher
    accuracy than that. Using the bars scheme
    is for simplicity. A lot of devices
    with Lithium cells, they present a figure
    like "89%" instead of using bars.

    Paul


    I went back and clicked the Got It and then gave me
    email selections and I choose Yahoo and now at this
    screen:

    https://postimg.cc/VrsVtk23

    It seems it wants me to login and download the app
    or do I login and click next? Maybe I'll try that,..

    I'll keep you posted,

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Dec 10 11:44:12 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 12/5/2024 8:31 PM, John Dulak wrote:
    On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and typing
    on it is a nightmare.

    My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
    light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.

    Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.

    Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.

    Robert

    Robert:

    A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
    charged.

    As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while
    connected to the charger.

    The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.

    I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.

    Good Luck.

    And so it goes...

    John

    Empty 25 50 75 100%

    +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ The materials can be
    | | | | | | | | |---| different colors, to
    | | | | | | |---| |---| improve the contrast.
    | | | | |---| |---| |---|
    | | |---| |---| |---| |---| Time, from 25% bar appears
    +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ +---+ until 50% appears, as an estimate of "what a bar is worth"

    The charge time from 75 to 100, takes
    about as long as the time from 0-75.
    Which is why you may not be waiting for
    it to hit 100 each time.

    The measurement circuit has much higher
    accuracy than that. Using the bars scheme
    is for simplicity. A lot of devices
    with Lithium cells, they present a figure
    like "89%" instead of using bars.

    Paul


    I successfully installed my email account on
    the cell phone and also will be getting a ipad
    strictly for VA tell conf purposes and if not
    used in 6 months I'm supposed to give it back.


    https://postimg.cc/FdjM1Yqj

    https://postimg.cc/GTK6JZbt

    Should I make my account in sync? Using a cell
    phone takes some getting use to and they provide
    no instruction booklet for all the icons and how
    to use them. It shows how far out of touch
    I am.

    Thanks,
    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Dec 15 08:59:50 2024
    On Tue, 12/10/2024 2:44 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 12/5/2024 8:31 PM, John Dulak wrote:
    On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and typing
    on it is a nightmare.

    My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
    light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.

    Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.

    Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.

    Robert

    Robert:

    A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
    charged.

    As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while
    connected to the charger.

    The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.

    I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.

    Good Luck.

    And so it goes...

    John

    Empty   25     50     75     100%

    +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+    The materials can be
    |   |  |   |  |   |  |   |  |---|    different colors, to
    |   |  |   |  |   |  |---|  |---|    improve the contrast.
    |   |  |   |  |---|  |---|  |---|
    |   |  |---|  |---|  |---|  |---|    Time, from 25% bar appears
    +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+    until 50% appears, as an estimate of "what a bar is worth"

    The charge time from 75 to 100, takes
    about as long as the time from 0-75.
    Which is why you may not be waiting for
    it to hit 100 each time.

    The measurement circuit has much higher
    accuracy than that. Using the bars scheme
    is for simplicity. A lot of devices
    with Lithium cells, they present a figure
    like "89%" instead of using bars.

        Paul


    I successfully installed my email account on
    the cell phone and also will be getting a ipad
    strictly for VA tell conf purposes and if not
    used in 6 months I'm supposed to give it back.


    https://postimg.cc/FdjM1Yqj

    https://postimg.cc/GTK6JZbt

    Should I make my account in sync? Using a cell
    phone takes some getting use to and they provide
    no instruction booklet for all the icons and how
    to use them. It shows how far out of touch
    I am.

    Thanks,
    Robert




    They don't really explain here, why you need Account Sync.
    This is only a guess. Maybe a part of it, is so the
    settings don't get lost. Like if the phone is lost,
    and you acquire another phone, some of the materials
    you used to use, would still be available.

    https://support.google.com/pixelphone/answer/2840875

    And a teleconference with a phone, while that's technically
    possible, not all the phones will have a good camera. A thousand
    dollar phone with five cameras... likely one of those cameras
    works.

    I have done a few teleconferences with my desktop, but
    I used the Windows 7 desktop for that, and my webcam
    that I use (a USB one), is a lot better than the camera
    in my laptop. Some of these cameras are little better
    than a "thing to fill the hole" in the device. The one in
    the laptop is dark.

    That's why, for teleconference usage, you need to
    test (somehow) that the hardware gives good results.
    It wasn't that easy, the few times I had to test, to get
    any sort of idea it was OK.

    My webcam has a pan and zoom in Windows 7, so for a
    teleconference I can sit in my chair, put the camera in
    one spot, then crop off the parts of the image I don't
    want, so I'm "centered" in the window the doctor sees.
    If I had done the session in Windows 10, the software
    doesn't work, so I have to squirm around in the chair
    to get centered :-) That's one reason for using Windows 7,
    as the software still works properly there.

    Phones are generally a lot better at this stuff, so I don't
    think you will have too much to worry about.

    ******

    Hope your pain condition is subsiding, even if the doctors
    don't really know what to do about it.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 15 12:14:57 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/10/2024 2:44 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 12/5/2024 8:31 PM, John Dulak wrote:
    On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and
    typing on it is a nightmare.

    My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
    light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.

    Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.

    Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.

    Robert

    Robert:

    A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
    charged.

    As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while
    connected to the charger.

    The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.

    I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.

    Good Luck.

    And so it goes...

    John

    Empty   25     50     75     100%

    +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+    The materials can be
    |   |  |   |  |   |  |   |  |---|    different colors, to >>> |   |  |   |  |   |  |---|  |---|    improve the contrast.
    |   |  |   |  |---|  |---|  |---|
    |   |  |---|  |---|  |---|  |---|    Time, from 25% bar appears >>> +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+    until 50% appears, as an estimate of "what a bar is worth"

    The charge time from 75 to 100, takes
    about as long as the time from 0-75.
    Which is why you may not be waiting for
    it to hit 100 each time.

    The measurement circuit has much higher
    accuracy than that. Using the bars scheme
    is for simplicity. A lot of devices
    with Lithium cells, they present a figure
    like "89%" instead of using bars.

        Paul


    I successfully installed my email account on
    the cell phone and also will be getting a ipad
    strictly for VA tell conf purposes and if not
    used in 6 months I'm supposed to give it back.


    https://postimg.cc/FdjM1Yqj

    https://postimg.cc/GTK6JZbt

    Should I make my account in sync? Using a cell
    phone takes some getting use to and they provide
    no instruction booklet for all the icons and how
    to use them. It shows how far out of touch
    I am.

    Thanks,
    Robert




    They don't really explain here, why you need Account Sync.
    This is only a guess. Maybe a part of it, is so the
    settings don't get lost. Like if the phone is lost,
    and you acquire another phone, some of the materials
    you used to use, would still be available.

    https://support.google.com/pixelphone/answer/2840875

    And a teleconference with a phone, while that's technically
    possible, not all the phones will have a good camera. A thousand
    dollar phone with five cameras... likely one of those cameras
    works.

    I have done a few teleconferences with my desktop, but
    I used the Windows 7 desktop for that, and my webcam
    that I use (a USB one), is a lot better than the camera
    in my laptop. Some of these cameras are little better
    than a "thing to fill the hole" in the device. The one in
    the laptop is dark.

    That's why, for teleconference usage, you need to
    test (somehow) that the hardware gives good results.
    It wasn't that easy, the few times I had to test, to get
    any sort of idea it was OK.

    My webcam has a pan and zoom in Windows 7, so for a
    teleconference I can sit in my chair, put the camera in
    one spot, then crop off the parts of the image I don't
    want, so I'm "centered" in the window the doctor sees.
    If I had done the session in Windows 10, the software
    doesn't work, so I have to squirm around in the chair
    to get centered :-) That's one reason for using Windows 7,
    as the software still works properly there.

    Phones are generally a lot better at this stuff, so I don't
    think you will have too much to worry about.

    ******

    Hope your pain condition is subsiding, even if the doctors
    don't really know what to do about it.

    Paul


    Should I go wi-f-i with my cell phone for the in synch to work?

    I'm not really worried about the quality of the ipad. My only
    reason for getting it is so I can stay connected online with the VA.
    The same is true for the cell phone. I don't plan to use it and only
    got it for (1) month. That's where the ipad comes in. It's all being
    forced on me by the VA just so I can stay active online. Jeez

    I went back for my 3rd time to get my cell phone to work and we
    were nearly through it when it asked for verification numbers which
    I didn't have. So we had to delete it and we start from scratch next Thurs

    The ipad is supposed to have directions on how to use it. I also did find
    a manual for the cell phone on how it works but allot to delve into.
    I've just been poking around with it but I'm not touching it until I go
    back
    to the VA.

    The burning nerves finally ended for the most part,. there's still some tingling,. whew! I never want to go through that again.

    Thanks,
    Robert



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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Dec 19 22:53:34 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/10/2024 2:44 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 12/5/2024 8:31 PM, John Dulak wrote:
    On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and
    typing on it is a nightmare.

    My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
    light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.

    Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.

    Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.

    Robert

    Robert:

    A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
    charged.

    As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while
    connected to the charger.

    The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.

    I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.

    Good Luck.

    And so it goes...

    John

    Empty   25     50     75     100%

    +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+    The materials can be
    |   |  |   |  |   |  |   |  |---|    different colors, to >>> |   |  |   |  |   |  |---|  |---|    improve the contrast.
    |   |  |   |  |---|  |---|  |---|
    |   |  |---|  |---|  |---|  |---|    Time, from 25% bar appears >>> +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+    until 50% appears, as an estimate of "what a bar is worth"

    The charge time from 75 to 100, takes
    about as long as the time from 0-75.
    Which is why you may not be waiting for
    it to hit 100 each time.

    The measurement circuit has much higher
    accuracy than that. Using the bars scheme
    is for simplicity. A lot of devices
    with Lithium cells, they present a figure
    like "89%" instead of using bars.

        Paul


    I successfully installed my email account on
    the cell phone and also will be getting a ipad
    strictly for VA tell conf purposes and if not
    used in 6 months I'm supposed to give it back.


    https://postimg.cc/FdjM1Yqj

    https://postimg.cc/GTK6JZbt

    Should I make my account in sync? Using a cell
    phone takes some getting use to and they provide
    no instruction booklet for all the icons and how
    to use them. It shows how far out of touch
    I am.

    Thanks,
    Robert




    They don't really explain here, why you need Account Sync.
    This is only a guess. Maybe a part of it, is so the
    settings don't get lost. Like if the phone is lost,
    and you acquire another phone, some of the materials
    you used to use, would still be available.

    https://support.google.com/pixelphone/answer/2840875

    And a teleconference with a phone, while that's technically
    possible, not all the phones will have a good camera. A thousand
    dollar phone with five cameras... likely one of those cameras
    works.

    I have done a few teleconferences with my desktop, but
    I used the Windows 7 desktop for that, and my webcam
    that I use (a USB one), is a lot better than the camera
    in my laptop. Some of these cameras are little better
    than a "thing to fill the hole" in the device. The one in
    the laptop is dark.

    That's why, for teleconference usage, you need to
    test (somehow) that the hardware gives good results.
    It wasn't that easy, the few times I had to test, to get
    any sort of idea it was OK.

    My webcam has a pan and zoom in Windows 7, so for a
    teleconference I can sit in my chair, put the camera in
    one spot, then crop off the parts of the image I don't
    want, so I'm "centered" in the window the doctor sees.
    If I had done the session in Windows 10, the software
    doesn't work, so I have to squirm around in the chair
    to get centered :-) That's one reason for using Windows 7,
    as the software still works properly there.

    Phones are generally a lot better at this stuff, so I don't
    think you will have too much to worry about.

    ******

    Hope your pain condition is subsiding, even if the doctors
    don't really know what to do about it.

    Paul


    I went to the VA (4th) time and finally got the cell phone
    working with a verified account. When I got home I had a
    message waiting from the VA via Yahoo. So I tried
    logging into the VA account but much to my surprise and
    annoyance it asked for my password and then would text/phone
    a 6 digit code to allow entry. It worked OK the first time.
    I clicked the remember me box so I wouldn't have to go
    through all that again.

    Just to check it I logged on later but it didn't remember me
    and I text the 6 digit code but it kept coming back as unrecognizable
    until I was finally locked out and it wouldn't even accept my
    password as being correct. So now I'm locked out of
    MyHealthyVet thanks to ID.me. So will have to call their
    customer support etc,.. what a hassle this has been just to stay
    connected online. Whoever thought up this one!@

    Robert


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Dec 20 21:19:59 2024
    On Fri, 12/20/2024 1:53 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    I went to the VA (4th) time and finally got the cell phone
    working with a verified account. When I got home I had a
    message waiting from the VA via Yahoo. So I tried
    logging into the VA account but much to my surprise and
    annoyance it asked for my password and then would text/phone
    a 6 digit code to allow entry. It worked OK the first time.
    I clicked the remember me box so I wouldn't have to go
    through all that again.

    Just to check it I logged on later but it didn't remember me
    and I text the 6 digit code but it kept coming back as unrecognizable
    until I was finally locked out and it wouldn't even accept my
    password as being correct.  So now I'm locked out of
    MyHealthyVet thanks to ID.me. So will have to call their
    customer support etc,.. what a hassle this has been just to stay
    connected online. Whoever thought up this one!@

    Robert

    If it uses 2FA, then you would expect it to use 2FA each time.

    You cannot reuse a code from a previous 2FA session. The whole
    purpose of generating a new code, is only you could be the
    recipient of the code, and by re-doing the procedure, it
    proves you are the recipient of the code each time.

    Paul

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Dec 20 21:26:47 2024
    On Sun, 12/15/2024 3:14 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/10/2024 2:44 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 12/5/2024 8:31 PM, John Dulak wrote:
    On 12/5/2024 10:25 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Yes, I know about the battery icon, but what are bars? the triangle to the left of the battery icon? it's so small it's hard to read. I'll try poking it to see if it comes up with a better display but honestly I hate even using the thing. and
    typing on it is a nightmare.

    My point was how long do I know how to charge the phone for? 1 hr? 24 hrs? There's no light indicators or anything to say it's charged. So I need to check the phone itself to see if it's charged? It would be allot easier if they installed a green
    light indicator along with all their bells and whistles.

    Hopefully today I will get signed in to id.me and be able to get a new account with the online VA now that I have a cell phone.

    Still in pain with inflamed nerves, this is getting old. I'm taking Celecoxib for the inflammation and Gabapentin for the nerve pain but neither have had any effect.

    Robert

    Robert:

    A common way for such devices to indicate the battery charge state is to imagine the battery icon as a water tank. The outline of the battery is always there but the colored in part indicates how "full" it is. If it is solid the battery is fully
    charged.

    As to how long to leave it connected to the charger any device less than about 10 years old has sensing circuits to stop the charging current when the battery is fully charged. You CANNOT overcharge such devices. Most will even work just fine while
    connected to the charger.

    The "bars" refered to indicate the strength of the signal recieved by the phone and have nothing to do with the battery.

    I sympathize with your dislike of "Smart" phones. The only cell phone I have is an old "flip phone" that lives in my car and rarely gets turned on let alone used.

    Good Luck.

    And so it goes...

    John

    Empty   25     50     75     100%

    +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+    The materials can be
    |   |  |   |  |   |  |   |  |---|    different colors, to >>>> |   |  |   |  |   |  |---|  |---|    improve the contrast. >>>> |   |  |   |  |---|  |---|  |---|
    |   |  |---|  |---|  |---|  |---|    Time, from 25% bar appears >>>> +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+  +---+    until 50% appears, as an estimate of "what a bar is worth"

    The charge time from 75 to 100, takes
    about as long as the time from 0-75.
    Which is why you may not be waiting for
    it to hit 100 each time.

    The measurement circuit has much higher
    accuracy than that. Using the bars scheme
    is for simplicity. A lot of devices
    with Lithium cells, they present a figure
    like "89%" instead of using bars.

         Paul


    I successfully installed my email account on
    the cell phone and also will be getting a ipad
    strictly for VA tell conf purposes and if not
    used in 6 months I'm supposed to give it back.


    https://postimg.cc/FdjM1Yqj

    https://postimg.cc/GTK6JZbt

    Should I make my account in sync? Using a cell
    phone takes some getting use to and they provide
    no instruction booklet for all the icons and how
    to use them. It shows how far out of touch
    I am.

    Thanks,
    Robert




    They don't really explain here, why you need Account Sync.
    This is only a guess. Maybe a part of it, is so the
    settings don't get lost. Like if the phone is lost,
    and you acquire another phone, some of the materials
    you used to use, would still be available.

    https://support.google.com/pixelphone/answer/2840875

    And a teleconference with a phone, while that's technically
    possible, not all the phones will have a good camera. A thousand
    dollar phone with five cameras... likely one of those cameras
    works.

    I have done a few teleconferences with my desktop, but
    I used the Windows 7 desktop for that, and my webcam
    that I use (a USB one), is a lot better than the camera
    in my laptop. Some of these cameras are little better
    than a "thing to fill the hole" in the device. The one in
    the laptop is dark.

    That's why, for teleconference usage, you need to
    test (somehow) that the hardware gives good results.
    It wasn't that easy, the few times I had to test, to get
    any sort of idea it was OK.

    My webcam has a pan and zoom in Windows 7, so for a
    teleconference I can sit in my chair, put the camera in
    one spot, then crop off the parts of the image I don't
    want, so I'm "centered" in the window the doctor sees.
    If I had done the session in Windows 10, the software
    doesn't work, so I have to squirm around in the chair
    to get centered :-) That's one reason for using Windows 7,
    as the software still works properly there.

    Phones are generally a lot better at this stuff, so I don't
    think you will have too much to worry about.

    ******

    Hope your pain condition is subsiding, even if the doctors
    don't really know what to do about it.

        Paul


    Should I go wi-f-i with my cell phone for the in synch to work?

    I'm not really worried about the quality of the ipad. My only
    reason for getting it is so I can stay connected online with the VA.
    The same is true for the cell phone. I don't plan to use it and only
    got it for (1) month. That's where the ipad comes in. It's all being
    forced on me by the VA just so I can stay active online. Jeez

    I went back for my 3rd time to get my cell phone to work and we
    were nearly through it when it asked for verification numbers which
    I didn't have. So we had to delete it and we start from scratch next Thurs

    The ipad is supposed to have directions on how to use it. I also did find
    a manual for the cell phone on how it works but allot to delve into.
    I've just been poking around with it but I'm not touching it until I go back to the VA.

    The burning nerves finally ended for the most part,. there's still some tingling,. whew! I never want to go through that again.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's good to hear your problem is subsiding. I don't know if the
    rate it is subsiding, tells your doctors what the root cause was
    or not.

    The cell phone can work off Wifi, but it may still need to authenticate
    via 4G or something. I don't know if the entire session is allowed
    to go through the Wifi. People use Wifi on a cellphone, to reduce
    the "data usage" of their phone. Some phone plans have a tiny cap
    on the data portion.

    The iPad could have a manual, like a PDF, stored in it. They
    like to do stuff like that. Normally, for a first time user,
    it should be in what passes for a home directory, rather than being
    stuffed in a spot you cannot locate.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Dec 21 20:23:13 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 12/20/2024 1:53 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    I went to the VA (4th) time and finally got the cell phone
    working with a verified account. When I got home I had a
    message waiting from the VA via Yahoo. So I tried
    logging into the VA account but much to my surprise and
    annoyance it asked for my password and then would text/phone
    a 6 digit code to allow entry. It worked OK the first time.
    I clicked the remember me box so I wouldn't have to go
    through all that again.

    Just to check it I logged on later but it didn't remember me
    and I text the 6 digit code but it kept coming back as unrecognizable
    until I was finally locked out and it wouldn't even accept my
    password as being correct.  So now I'm locked out of
    MyHealthyVet thanks to ID.me. So will have to call their
    customer support etc,.. what a hassle this has been just to stay
    connected online. Whoever thought up this one!@

    Robert

    If it uses 2FA, then you would expect it to use 2FA each time.

    You cannot reuse a code from a previous 2FA session. The whole
    purpose of generating a new code, is only you could be the
    recipient of the code, and by re-doing the procedure, it
    proves you are the recipient of the code each time.

    Paul




    I understand but it's so involved plus I had to
    buy a cell phone just for this. They assume everyone
    has a cell phone.

    Also ID.me doesn't have a phone number you can call
    for support but I had a email from them asking if I
    still needed help after I got my verified account.
    So I replied to that. The VA can't help me with this
    because I'm locked out and they can't do anymore than
    me. I need to talk to ID.me

    I actually was given a ID.me phone number at the VA
    when I was there. Hopefully I can work through all of
    this because I've already spent an inordinate amount
    of time on what they call a 10 minute easy procedure.

    Robert



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Dec 22 14:28:51 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 12/20/2024 1:53 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    I went to the VA (4th) time and finally got the cell phone
    working with a verified account. When I got home I had a
    message waiting from the VA via Yahoo. So I tried
    logging into the VA account but much to my surprise and
    annoyance it asked for my password and then would text/phone
    a 6 digit code to allow entry. It worked OK the first time.
    I clicked the remember me box so I wouldn't have to go
    through all that again.

    Just to check it I logged on later but it didn't remember me
    and I text the 6 digit code but it kept coming back as unrecognizable
    until I was finally locked out and it wouldn't even accept my
    password as being correct.  So now I'm locked out of
    MyHealthyVet thanks to ID.me. So will have to call their
    customer support etc,.. what a hassle this has been just to stay
    connected online. Whoever thought up this one!@

    Robert

    If it uses 2FA, then you would expect it to use 2FA each time.

    You cannot reuse a code from a previous 2FA session. The whole
    purpose of generating a new code, is only you could be the
    recipient of the code, and by re-doing the procedure, it
    proves you are the recipient of the code each time.

    Paul



    I managed to get the ID.me account unlocked with
    a 6 digit code sent to Yahoo but it still doesn't
    recognize the 6 digit code sent by text when I try to
    login., I tried twice.

    I tried once by phone and had the cell phone on and
    the phone application open but I didn't see or hear anything.
    So I have to figure out how to receive calls on the phone.
    It's a HMD android powered cell phone.

    I just figured out how to delete messages.

    Robert


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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Dec 23 13:51:43 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 12/20/2024 1:53 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    I went to the VA (4th) time and finally got the cell phone
    working with a verified account. When I got home I had a
    message waiting from the VA via Yahoo. So I tried
    logging into the VA account but much to my surprise and
    annoyance it asked for my password and then would text/phone
    a 6 digit code to allow entry. It worked OK the first time.
    I clicked the remember me box so I wouldn't have to go
    through all that again.

    Just to check it I logged on later but it didn't remember me
    and I text the 6 digit code but it kept coming back as unrecognizable
    until I was finally locked out and it wouldn't even accept my
    password as being correct.  So now I'm locked out of
    MyHealthyVet thanks to ID.me. So will have to call their
    customer support etc,.. what a hassle this has been just to stay
    connected online. Whoever thought up this one!@

    Robert

    If it uses 2FA, then you would expect it to use 2FA each time.

    You cannot reuse a code from a previous 2FA session. The whole
    purpose of generating a new code, is only you could be the
    recipient of the code, and by re-doing the procedure, it
    proves you are the recipient of the code each time.

    Paul


    I tested the phone and it works but I still can't log in by text or
    phone.

    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Dec 23 18:18:57 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 12/20/2024 1:53 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    I went to the VA (4th) time and finally got the cell phone
    working with a verified account. When I got home I had a
    message waiting from the VA via Yahoo. So I tried
    logging into the VA account but much to my surprise and
    annoyance it asked for my password and then would text/phone
    a 6 digit code to allow entry. It worked OK the first time.
    I clicked the remember me box so I wouldn't have to go
    through all that again.

    Just to check it I logged on later but it didn't remember me
    and I text the 6 digit code but it kept coming back as unrecognizable
    until I was finally locked out and it wouldn't even accept my
    password as being correct.  So now I'm locked out of
    MyHealthyVet thanks to ID.me. So will have to call their
    customer support etc,.. what a hassle this has been just to stay
    connected online. Whoever thought up this one!@

    Robert

    If it uses 2FA, then you would expect it to use 2FA each time.

    You cannot reuse a code from a previous 2FA session. The whole
    purpose of generating a new code, is only you could be the
    recipient of the code, and by re-doing the procedure, it
    proves you are the recipient of the code each time.

    Paul



    I finally was able to login and the ipad arrived. So I have
    another learning curve.

    Robert



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Dec 24 13:08:56 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 12/20/2024 1:53 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    I went to the VA (4th) time and finally got the cell phone
    working with a verified account. When I got home I had a
    message waiting from the VA via Yahoo. So I tried
    logging into the VA account but much to my surprise and
    annoyance it asked for my password and then would text/phone
    a 6 digit code to allow entry. It worked OK the first time.
    I clicked the remember me box so I wouldn't have to go
    through all that again.

    Just to check it I logged on later but it didn't remember me
    and I text the 6 digit code but it kept coming back as unrecognizable
    until I was finally locked out and it wouldn't even accept my
    password as being correct.  So now I'm locked out of
    MyHealthyVet thanks to ID.me. So will have to call their
    customer support etc,.. what a hassle this has been just to stay
    connected online. Whoever thought up this one!@

    Robert

    If it uses 2FA, then you would expect it to use 2FA each time.

    You cannot reuse a code from a previous 2FA session. The whole
    purpose of generating a new code, is only you could be the
    recipient of the code, and by re-doing the procedure, it
    proves you are the recipient of the code each time.

    Paul



    p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
    don't have to use the cell phone anymore.

    I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
    on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
    have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
    up.

    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Dec 25 16:56:41 2024
    On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
    don't have to use the cell phone anymore.

    I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
    on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
    have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
    up.

    Robert

    That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
    conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
    is on an iPad. I assume it has one.

    Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
    Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
    I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
    Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
    on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
    cloud.

    For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
    on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
    The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
    so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
    with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
    comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
    that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
    procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.

    The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
    conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
    I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
    of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
    is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
    does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
    day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Dec 25 17:55:28 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
    don't have to use the cell phone anymore.

    I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
    on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
    have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
    up.

    Robert

    That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
    conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
    is on an iPad. I assume it has one.

    Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
    Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
    I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
    Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
    on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
    cloud.

    For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
    on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
    The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
    so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
    with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
    comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
    that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
    procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.

    The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
    conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
    I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
    of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
    is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
    does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
    day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.

    Paul





    Well I haven't had a tele-conferencing call requirement since I've
    been with the VA. They asked but I told them I don't have that
    capability so it's not an issue. They just call me instead.

    They did send the ipad but I had no idea it would be such a hassle
    to set up and it only has one use. If I didn't use it then I would have
    to return it in any case. So my next appointment in January I'll take
    it back.

    Considering I've spent nearly 2 months and (4) trips to the VA trying
    to get the cell to work I don't want or need the ipad.

    I thumbed through the instructions of the ipad and there's
    fingerprinting involved along with a host of other things and its just
    not worth it.

    I can do everything I need to do without the ipad.

    Robert


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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Dec 27 12:14:11 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
    don't have to use the cell phone anymore.

    I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
    on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
    have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
    up.

    Robert

    That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
    conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
    is on an iPad. I assume it has one.

    Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
    Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
    I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
    Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
    on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
    cloud.

    For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
    on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
    The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
    so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
    with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
    comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
    that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
    procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.

    The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
    conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
    I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
    of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
    is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
    does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
    day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.

    Paul



    I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so now I don't
    need the cell phone or added cost either.

    Robert



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Dec 31 00:28:04 2024
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
    don't have to use the cell phone anymore.

    I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
    on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
    have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
    up.

    Robert

    That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
    conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
    is on an iPad. I assume it has one.

    Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
    Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
    I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
    Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
    on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
    cloud.

    For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
    on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
    The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
    so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
    with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
    comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
    that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
    procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.

    The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
    conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
    I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
    of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
    is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
    does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
    day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.

    Paul



    I got a phone call from out of the blue by someone
    saying they wanted to help me setup my ipad. I told
    him I planned to return the ipad to the VA. He said don't
    do that we'll mail you a package to return it to who
    sent it.

    So will wait for their package in the mail.

    I thought you'd be interested.

    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Jan 6 20:27:32 2025
    On Tue, 12/31/2024 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
    don't have to use the cell phone anymore.

    I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
    on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
    have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
    up.

    Robert

    That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
    conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
    is on an iPad. I assume it has one.

    Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
    Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
    I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
    Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
    on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
    cloud.

    For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
    on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
    The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
    so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
    with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
    comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
    that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
    procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.

    The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
    conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
    I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
    of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
    is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
    does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
    day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.

        Paul



    I got a phone call from out of the blue by someone
    saying they wanted to help me setup my ipad. I told
    him I planned to return the ipad to the VA. He said don't
    do that we'll mail you a package to return it to who
    sent it.

    So will wait for their package in the mail.

    I thought you'd be interested.

    Robert

    That's very nice of them to help out like that.
    Especially as the label could eliminate the need
    to figure out who should receive it. With large organizations
    you never know which "shed" to send an item to.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 7 17:46:15 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/31/2024 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
    don't have to use the cell phone anymore.

    I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
    on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
    have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
    up.

    Robert

    That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
    conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
    is on an iPad. I assume it has one.

    Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
    Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
    I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
    Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
    on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
    cloud.

    For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
    on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
    The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
    so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
    with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
    comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
    that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
    procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.

    The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
    conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
    I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
    of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
    is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
    does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
    day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.

        Paul



    I got a phone call from out of the blue by someone
    saying they wanted to help me setup my ipad. I told
    him I planned to return the ipad to the VA. He said don't
    do that we'll mail you a package to return it to who
    sent it.

    So will wait for their package in the mail.

    I thought you'd be interested.

    Robert

    That's very nice of them to help out like that.
    Especially as the label could eliminate the need
    to figure out who should receive it. With large organizations
    you never know which "shed" to send an item to.

    Paul



    I forgot to do the backups on the first. So I started the 780
    but it seems like its hung up and the cancel and pause buttons
    are grayed out. I tried to close the program but it says Macrium
    Reflect is currently performing a task. but the screen has stayed
    the same for some time. It doesn't look active.

    https://postimg.cc/N5wxNb0B

    So how do I get out of this?

    Thanks,
    Robert




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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 7 19:50:46 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/31/2024 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
    don't have to use the cell phone anymore.

    I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
    on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
    have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
    up.

    Robert

    That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
    conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
    is on an iPad. I assume it has one.

    Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
    Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
    I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
    Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
    on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
    cloud.

    For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
    on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
    The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
    so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
    with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
    comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
    that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
    procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.

    The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
    conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
    I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
    of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
    is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
    does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
    day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.

        Paul



    I got a phone call from out of the blue by someone
    saying they wanted to help me setup my ipad. I told
    him I planned to return the ipad to the VA. He said don't
    do that we'll mail you a package to return it to who
    sent it.

    So will wait for their package in the mail.

    I thought you'd be interested.

    Robert

    That's very nice of them to help out like that.
    Especially as the label could eliminate the need
    to figure out who should receive it. With large organizations
    you never know which "shed" to send an item to.

    Paul



    The mrimg backup on the 780 hasn't budged and as I said the cancel and
    pause buttons are grayed out. I tried to power off again but it gave
    this pop up message.

    https://postimg.cc/18yTnyhx

    It isn't doing anything and the bar graph isn't moving and it doesn't
    show time remaining. It's not right despite the message saying it needs
    to complete its actions.

    I'll leave it running since the only option I have is to hard power it
    off and I'd rather not do that. It might damage the hard drives but I
    can't leave it on indefinitely either.

    Robert



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Jan 7 19:54:06 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/31/2024 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
    don't have to use the cell phone anymore.

    I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
    on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
    have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
    up.

    Robert

    That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
    conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
    is on an iPad. I assume it has one.

    Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
    Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
    I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
    Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
    on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
    cloud.

    For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
    on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
    The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
    so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
    with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
    comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
    that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
    procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.

    The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
    conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
    I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
    of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
    is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
    does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
    day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.

        Paul



    I got a phone call from out of the blue by someone
    saying they wanted to help me setup my ipad. I told
    him I planned to return the ipad to the VA. He said don't
    do that we'll mail you a package to return it to who
    sent it.

    So will wait for their package in the mail.

    I thought you'd be interested.

    Robert

    That's very nice of them to help out like that.
    Especially as the label could eliminate the need
    to figure out who should receive it. With large organizations
    you never know which "shed" to send an item to.

    Paul




    I just noticed that the bar graph does seem to have moved but
    this is taking an inordinate amount of time to do compaared to before.

    Why do you think that is ?

    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Jan 9 21:42:05 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/31/2024 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
    don't have to use the cell phone anymore.

    I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
    on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
    have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
    up.

    Robert

    That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
    conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
    is on an iPad. I assume it has one.

    Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
    Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
    I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
    Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
    on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
    cloud.

    For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
    on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
    The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
    so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
    with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
    comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
    that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
    procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.

    The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
    conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
    I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
    of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
    is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
    does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
    day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.

        Paul



    I got a phone call from out of the blue by someone
    saying they wanted to help me setup my ipad. I told
    him I planned to return the ipad to the VA. He said don't
    do that we'll mail you a package to return it to who
    sent it.

    So will wait for their package in the mail.

    I thought you'd be interested.

    Robert

    That's very nice of them to help out like that.
    Especially as the label could eliminate the need
    to figure out who should receive it. With large organizations
    you never know which "shed" to send an item to.

    Paul



    I thought there wasn't something not quite right about the 780 mrimg.
    because it was taking forever. In any case I had a power outage that
    lasted 2 days. They turned off the power because of high winds. Jeeez
    thanks.

    So finally when I got power back I deleted the old mrimg which
    hadn't finished and created a new one and this time everything
    worked normally as did the 8500.

    780 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/1fK2jbn7

    8500 mrimg

    https://postimg.cc/zLyQ3Bd4

    Robert



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Jan 10 10:20:59 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/31/2024 3:28 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 12/24/2024 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    p.s. I was able to add my landline phone to ID.me so I
    don't have to use the cell phone anymore.

    I'm glad I was able to do that so I won't be dependent
    on the cell phone. I'm also going to return the ipad, I
    have no use for it and it looks like a nightmare to set
    up.

    Robert

    That would depend on whether there will ever be a video
    conference or not. I don't know how good the camera
    is on an iPad. I assume it has one.

    Setting up an iPad, would likely involve an iCloud account.
    Even if you don't plan on doing anything network related,
    I think setting up an account is still part of the process.
    Just as they have the notion of an MSA (Microsoft Account)
    on Windows 10. I have an MSA, but I don't store files in the
    cloud.

    For video conferencing, it's nice to have pan and zoom
    on the camera, to "frame" yourself sitting in your seat.
    The one good camera I've got, it can zoom in and out,
    so it can be adjusted a bit. I haven't done a conference
    with a doctor now, for at least three years. That generally
    comes after something like a CT/PET scan, or other procedure
    that can actually tell you something. A lot of lesser
    procedures (a blood test), a text file is good enough for that.

    The benefit of the mobile electronics devices for a video
    conference, is it can be marginally easier to set up.
    I start experimenting with the desktop setup, a number
    of days before the conference, just to make sure everything
    is working. Not all the "test numbers", the test session
    does not inspire confidence it's going to work on appointment
    day. With a phone or a tablet, this stuff should work better.

        Paul



    I got a phone call from out of the blue by someone
    saying they wanted to help me setup my ipad. I told
    him I planned to return the ipad to the VA. He said don't
    do that we'll mail you a package to return it to who
    sent it.

    So will wait for their package in the mail.

    I thought you'd be interested.

    Robert

    That's very nice of them to help out like that.
    Especially as the label could eliminate the need
    to figure out who should receive it. With large organizations
    you never know which "shed" to send an item to.

    Paul



    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Jan 11 00:17:24 2025
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
    to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
    helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.

    Paul

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Jan 11 10:33:59 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
    to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
    helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.

    Paul



    Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
    8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
    to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
    Win 10 hd already installed.

    Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?

    I did however run HD Tune on the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq

    https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN

    https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf


    Robert




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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Jan 11 15:23:36 2025
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
    to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
    helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.

        Paul



    Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
    8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
    to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
    Win 10 hd already installed.

    Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?

    I did however run HD Tune on the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq

    https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN

    https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf


    Robert

    Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.

    There are some downward spikes. They're not always
    conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
    an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
    so the backups would not be falling onto the first
    four spikes downwards.

    The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
    above the main line. But maybe that was also present
    when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
    seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.

    HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
    tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
    with the SMART table there, is it does not include
    the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
    includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
    to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
    it's just additional information. For example, one
    of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
    short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
    bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
    of the short test, must have been plowing through there.

    It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
    I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
    backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
    disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
    Pretty low odds.

    I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
    here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
    out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
    run here without an issue.

    Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
    raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
    "Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
    I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
    while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
    of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
    to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
    principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
    a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
    The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
    after an end-to-end disk write.

    If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
    pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
    The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
    it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
    than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
    did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
    judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
    Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
    status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
    bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
    the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
    The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
    Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
    way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
    so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
    with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
    nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
    many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.

    Paul

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Jan 11 17:50:44 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
    to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
    helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.

        Paul



    Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
    8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
    to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
    Win 10 hd already installed.

    Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?

    I did however run HD Tune on the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq

    https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN

    https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf


    Robert

    Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.

    There are some downward spikes. They're not always
    conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
    an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
    so the backups would not be falling onto the first
    four spikes downwards.

    The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
    above the main line. But maybe that was also present
    when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
    seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.

    HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
    tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
    with the SMART table there, is it does not include
    the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
    includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
    to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
    it's just additional information. For example, one
    of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
    short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
    bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
    of the short test, must have been plowing through there.

    It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
    I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
    backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
    disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
    Pretty low odds.

    I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
    here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
    out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
    run here without an issue.

    Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
    raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
    "Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
    I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
    while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
    of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
    to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
    principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
    a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
    The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
    after an end-to-end disk write.

    If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
    pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
    The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
    it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
    than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
    did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
    judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
    Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
    status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
    bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
    the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
    The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
    Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
    way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
    so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
    with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
    nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
    many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.

    Paul



    I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
    That crop out of nowhere.

    The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
    include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.

    https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5

    https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM

    https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF

    Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?

    Thanks,
    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Jan 17 03:09:13 2025
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 8:50 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
    to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
    helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.

         Paul



    Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
    8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
    to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
    Win 10 hd already installed.

    Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?

    I did however run HD Tune on the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq

    https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN

    https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf


    Robert

    Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.

    There are some downward spikes. They're not always
    conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
    an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
    so the backups would not be falling onto the first
    four spikes downwards.

    The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
    above the main line. But maybe that was also present
    when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
    seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.

    HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
    tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
    with the SMART table there, is it does not include
    the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
    includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
    to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
    it's just additional information. For example, one
    of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
    short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
    bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
    of the short test, must have been plowing through there.

    It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
    I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
    backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
    disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
    Pretty low odds.

    I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
    here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
    out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
    run here without an issue.

    Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
    raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
    "Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
    I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
    while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
    of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
    to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
    principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
    a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
    The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
    after an end-to-end disk write.

    If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
    pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
    The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
    it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
    than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
    did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
    judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
    Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
    status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
    bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
    the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
    The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
    Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
    way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
    so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
    with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
    nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
    many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.

        Paul



    I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
    That crop out of nowhere.

    The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
    include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.

    https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5

    https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM

    https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF

    Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    OK, there's a wide spike down near the end.

    That is probably for real. If your backups fell in
    that area, you might have noticed the backup took longer
    than normal.

    To benchmark the drive like that, and get those speeds, you
    must have been on a USB3 port.

    *******

    But your third picture is a true puzzle.
    The thing is, the temperature is a SMART table entry.
    To list the drive temperature, you have to be able to read SMART.
    Yet at the bottom of the third picture, two items say "N/A" as if
    they're not available.

    Now, I can't explain that one. Maybe it's getting stuck
    transferring the SMART table, but that table isn't likely
    to be all that large.

    Perhaps the temperature transfer is done as a different
    sequence first, then the whole SMART table is dumped
    slightly later.

    It could have something to do with the enclosure, and the
    USB conversion chip. But if that was the case, how could
    the benchmark curve have run ? Benchmarking moves lots of data.

    I have setups here, where there is no SMART passthru, and
    the top of that display shows a "minus" temperature indicating
    there is no data to drive the display with. Whereas yours definitely
    has a temperature, and it is probably the correct temperature too
    (a real reading).

    I don't know how to advise you on this one. The wide spike doesn't
    look good, and it probably wouldn't be that wide if the OS was
    interfering with the benchmark.

    I can't imagine you had thousands of service hours on those drives.
    It is hard to say, how the light service of doing backups, would
    wear out a drive that fast. If the drive was left running, that
    might contribute to it.

    My drive with no landing ramp, it only lasted for 7000 power-on-hours.
    I expect not having a landing ramp, did make a difference for that
    drive.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Jan 19 01:56:54 2025
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
    to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
    helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.

         Paul



    Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
    8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
    to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
    Win 10 hd already installed.

    Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?

    I did however run HD Tune on the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq

    https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN

    https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf


    Robert

    Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.

    There are some downward spikes. They're not always
    conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
    an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
    so the backups would not be falling onto the first
    four spikes downwards.

    The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
    above the main line. But maybe that was also present
    when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
    seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.

    HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
    tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
    with the SMART table there, is it does not include
    the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
    includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
    to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
    it's just additional information. For example, one
    of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
    short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
    bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
    of the short test, must have been plowing through there.

    It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
    I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
    backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
    disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
    Pretty low odds.

    I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
    here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
    out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
    run here without an issue.

    Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
    raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
    "Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
    I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
    while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
    of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
    to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
    principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
    a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
    The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
    after an end-to-end disk write.

    If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
    pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
    The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
    it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
    than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
    did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
    judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
    Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
    status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
    bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
    the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
    The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
    Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
    way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
    so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
    with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
    nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
    many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.

        Paul



    I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
    That crop out of nowhere.

    The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
    include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.

    https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5

    https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM

    https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF

    Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?

    Thanks,
    Robert





    Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
    780.

    As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
    anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
    didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
    it doesn't have the SMART table.

    How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
    I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
    it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.

    I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
    old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
    probably already formatted but I would need to bring
    Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
    my bookmarks over.

    I'll let you know if I have problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Jan 19 02:17:20 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 8:50 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
    to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
    helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.

         Paul



    Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
    8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
    to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
    Win 10 hd already installed.

    Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?

    I did however run HD Tune on the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq

    https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN

    https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf


    Robert

    Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.

    There are some downward spikes. They're not always
    conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
    an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
    so the backups would not be falling onto the first
    four spikes downwards.

    The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
    above the main line. But maybe that was also present
    when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
    seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.

    HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
    tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
    with the SMART table there, is it does not include
    the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
    includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
    to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
    it's just additional information. For example, one
    of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
    short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
    bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
    of the short test, must have been plowing through there.

    It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
    I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
    backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
    disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
    Pretty low odds.

    I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
    here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
    out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
    run here without an issue.

    Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
    raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
    "Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
    I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
    while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
    of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
    to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
    principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
    a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
    The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
    after an end-to-end disk write.

    If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
    pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
    The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
    it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
    than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
    did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
    judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
    Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
    status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
    bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
    the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
    The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
    Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
    way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
    so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
    with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
    nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
    many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.

        Paul



    I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
    That crop out of nowhere.

    The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
    include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.

    https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5

    https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM

    https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF

    Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    OK, there's a wide spike down near the end.

    That is probably for real. If your backups fell in
    that area, you might have noticed the backup took longer
    than normal.

    To benchmark the drive like that, and get those speeds, you
    must have been on a USB3 port.

    *******

    But your third picture is a true puzzle.
    The thing is, the temperature is a SMART table entry.
    To list the drive temperature, you have to be able to read SMART.
    Yet at the bottom of the third picture, two items say "N/A" as if
    they're not available.

    Now, I can't explain that one. Maybe it's getting stuck
    transferring the SMART table, but that table isn't likely
    to be all that large.

    Perhaps the temperature transfer is done as a different
    sequence first, then the whole SMART table is dumped
    slightly later.

    It could have something to do with the enclosure, and the
    USB conversion chip. But if that was the case, how could
    the benchmark curve have run ? Benchmarking moves lots of data.

    I have setups here, where there is no SMART passthru, and
    the top of that display shows a "minus" temperature indicating
    there is no data to drive the display with. Whereas yours definitely
    has a temperature, and it is probably the correct temperature too
    (a real reading).

    I don't know how to advise you on this one. The wide spike doesn't
    look good, and it probably wouldn't be that wide if the OS was
    interfering with the benchmark.

    I can't imagine you had thousands of service hours on those drives.
    It is hard to say, how the light service of doing backups, would
    wear out a drive that fast. If the drive was left running, that
    might contribute to it.

    My drive with no landing ramp, it only lasted for 7000 power-on-hours.
    I expect not having a landing ramp, did make a difference for that
    drive.

    Paul



    I also have the Win 10 hd installed in the 780
    and I believe I had a backup hd for that as well.

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Jan 19 21:39:34 2025
    On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
    to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
    helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.

         Paul



    Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
    8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
    to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
    Win 10 hd already installed.

    Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?

    I did however run HD Tune on the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq

    https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN

    https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf


    Robert

    Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.

    There are some downward spikes. They're not always
    conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
    an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
    so the backups would not be falling onto the first
    four spikes downwards.

    The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
    above the main line. But maybe that was also present
    when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
    seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.

    HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
    tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
    with the SMART table there, is it does not include
    the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
    includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
    to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
    it's just additional information. For example, one
    of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
    short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
    bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
    of the short test, must have been plowing through there.

    It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
    I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
    backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
    disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
    Pretty low odds.

    I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
    here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
    out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
    run here without an issue.

    Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
    raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
    "Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
    I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
    while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
    of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
    to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
    principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
    a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
    The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
    after an end-to-end disk write.

    If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
    pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
    The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
    it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
    than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
    did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
    judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
    Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
    status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
    bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
    the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
    The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
    Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
    way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
    so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
    with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
    nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
    many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.

        Paul



    I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
    That crop out of nowhere.

    The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
    include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.

    https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5

    https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM

    https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF

    Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?

    Thanks,
    Robert





    Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
    780.

    As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
    anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
    didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
    it doesn't have the SMART table.

    How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
    I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
    it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.

    I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
    old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
    probably already formatted but I would need to bring
    Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
    my bookmarks over.

    I'll let you know if I have problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
    those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
    get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
    would equate to a lot of backups :-)

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Jan 20 01:18:53 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
    to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
    helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.

         Paul



    Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
    8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
    to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
    Win 10 hd already installed.

    Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?

    I did however run HD Tune on the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq

    https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN

    https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf


    Robert

    Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.

    There are some downward spikes. They're not always
    conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
    an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
    so the backups would not be falling onto the first
    four spikes downwards.

    The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
    above the main line. But maybe that was also present
    when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
    seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.

    HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
    tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
    with the SMART table there, is it does not include
    the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
    includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
    to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
    it's just additional information. For example, one
    of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
    short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
    bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
    of the short test, must have been plowing through there.

    It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
    I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
    backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
    disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
    Pretty low odds.

    I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
    here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
    out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
    run here without an issue.

    Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
    raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
    "Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
    I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
    while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
    of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
    to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
    principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
    a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
    The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
    after an end-to-end disk write.

    If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
    pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
    The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
    it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
    than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
    did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
    judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
    Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
    status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
    bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
    the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
    The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
    Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
    way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
    so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
    with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
    nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
    many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.

        Paul



    I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
    That crop out of nowhere.

    The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
    include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.

    https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5

    https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM

    https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF

    Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?

    Thanks,
    Robert





    Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
    780.

    As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
    anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
    didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
    it doesn't have the SMART table.

    How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
    I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
    it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.

    I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
    old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
    probably already formatted but I would need to bring
    Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
    my bookmarks over.

    I'll let you know if I have problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
    those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
    get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
    would equate to a lot of backups :-)

    Paul


    Agreed,.. and I only use the 780 for mrimgs.

    I do have my share of off the wall and unusual problems.
    Let's just hope it hung up for some reason and there won't
    be a repeat.

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Jan 31 22:06:44 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
    to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
    helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.

         Paul



    Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
    8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
    to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
    Win 10 hd already installed.

    Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?

    I did however run HD Tune on the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq

    https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN

    https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf


    Robert

    Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.

    There are some downward spikes. They're not always
    conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
    an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
    so the backups would not be falling onto the first
    four spikes downwards.

    The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
    above the main line. But maybe that was also present
    when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
    seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.

    HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
    tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
    with the SMART table there, is it does not include
    the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
    includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
    to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
    it's just additional information. For example, one
    of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
    short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
    bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
    of the short test, must have been plowing through there.

    It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
    I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
    backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
    disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
    Pretty low odds.

    I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
    here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
    out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
    run here without an issue.

    Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
    raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
    "Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
    I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
    while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
    of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
    to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
    principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
    a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
    The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
    after an end-to-end disk write.

    If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
    pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
    The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
    it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
    than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
    did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
    judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
    Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
    status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
    bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
    the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
    The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
    Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
    way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
    so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
    with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
    nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
    many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.

        Paul



    I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
    That crop out of nowhere.

    The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
    include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.

    https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5

    https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM

    https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF

    Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?

    Thanks,
    Robert





    Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
    780.

    As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
    anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
    didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
    it doesn't have the SMART table.

    How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
    I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
    it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.

    I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
    old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
    probably already formatted but I would need to bring
    Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
    my bookmarks over.

    I'll let you know if I have problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
    those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
    get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
    would equate to a lot of backups :-)

    Paul



    I meant repeatedly open/close the item of course
    to view the pictures.

    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Jan 31 22:02:56 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
    to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
    helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.

         Paul



    Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
    8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
    to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
    Win 10 hd already installed.

    Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?

    I did however run HD Tune on the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq

    https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN

    https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf


    Robert

    Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.

    There are some downward spikes. They're not always
    conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
    an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
    so the backups would not be falling onto the first
    four spikes downwards.

    The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
    above the main line. But maybe that was also present
    when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
    seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.

    HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
    tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
    with the SMART table there, is it does not include
    the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
    includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
    to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
    it's just additional information. For example, one
    of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
    short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
    bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
    of the short test, must have been plowing through there.

    It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
    I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
    backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
    disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
    Pretty low odds.

    I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
    here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
    out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
    run here without an issue.

    Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
    raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
    "Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
    I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
    while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
    of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
    to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
    principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
    a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
    The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
    after an end-to-end disk write.

    If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
    pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
    The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
    it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
    than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
    did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
    judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
    Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
    status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
    bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
    the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
    The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
    Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
    way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
    so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
    with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
    nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
    many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.

        Paul



    I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
    That crop out of nowhere.

    The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
    include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.

    https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5

    https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM

    https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF

    Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?

    Thanks,
    Robert





    Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
    780.

    As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
    anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
    didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
    it doesn't have the SMART table.

    How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
    I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
    it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.

    I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
    old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
    probably already formatted but I would need to bring
    Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
    my bookmarks over.

    I'll let you know if I have problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
    those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
    get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
    would equate to a lot of backups :-)

    Paul



    Not a problem per see but I've noticed when I go to eBay
    and I click on an item (smoking pipes) the additional pictures
    don't show when you select them but if I click it several times
    they do or sometimes they stay closed. Other items don't have
    this problem and I'm just wondering why it is?

    Why can't I see the pictures all the time without having to close
    and open it again? It didn't use to be that way. I guess when they
    updated eBay they screwed things up.

    Hmmmmm my Seamonkey says Warning I'm using a old version
    V 2.53.19 and there's a download for V2.53.20 I thought we already
    did this? Should I click the download?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Feb 1 21:35:47 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
    to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark,
    helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.

         Paul



    Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
    8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
    to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
    Win 10 hd already installed.

    Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?

    I did however run HD Tune on the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq

    https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN

    https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf


    Robert

    Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.

    There are some downward spikes. They're not always
    conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
    an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
    so the backups would not be falling onto the first
    four spikes downwards.

    The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
    above the main line. But maybe that was also present
    when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
    seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.

    HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
    tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
    with the SMART table there, is it does not include
    the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
    includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
    to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
    it's just additional information. For example, one
    of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
    short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
    bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
    of the short test, must have been plowing through there.

    It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
    I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
    backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
    disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
    Pretty low odds.

    I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
    here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
    out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
    run here without an issue.

    Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
    raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
    "Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
    I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
    while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
    of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
    to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
    principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
    a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
    The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
    after an end-to-end disk write.

    If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
    pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
    The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
    it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
    than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
    did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
    judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
    Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
    status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
    bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
    the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
    The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
    Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
    way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
    so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
    with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
    nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
    many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.

        Paul



    I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
    That crop out of nowhere.

    The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
    include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.

    https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5

    https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM

    https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF

    Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?

    Thanks,
    Robert





    Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
    780.

    As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
    anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
    didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
    it doesn't have the SMART table.

    How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
    I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
    it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.

    I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
    old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
    probably already formatted but I would need to bring
    Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
    my bookmarks over.

    I'll let you know if I have problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
    those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
    get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
    would equate to a lot of backups :-)

    Paul


    I ran mrimgs on the 780 and 8500 and no issues this time.

    780

    https://postimg.cc/HcThCs7J


    8500

    https://postimg.cc/F1sBWz48

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Feb 6 07:21:52 2025
    On Sat, 2/1/2025 1:02 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    Not a problem per see but I've noticed when I go to eBay
    and I click on an item (smoking pipes) the additional pictures
    don't show when you select them but if I click it several times
    they do or sometimes they stay closed. Other items don't have
    this problem and I'm just wondering why it is?

    Why can't I see the pictures all the time without having to close
    and open it again? It didn't use to be that way. I guess when they
    updated eBay they screwed things up.

    Hmmmmm my Seamonkey says Warning I'm using a old version
    V 2.53.19 and there's a download for V2.53.20 I thought we already
    did this? Should I click the download?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    I don't know if I like V2.53.20 . It seems to be a bit more
    "exploitable" by web sites. I don't know what has changed in
    there. It didn't get Widevine (so it still can't view movies
    on my local TV news sites).

    Firefox is limited to version 115 or so on Windows 7.
    And it won't be getting any more updates. Windows 10
    would still get updates (FF135). But even though the OS makes
    no difference with W10 and W11, they'll likely still
    stop updating it for Windows 10 at some point. It
    can't last forever.

    But as for Seamonkey, while Seamonkey is derived from
    Firefox, it hasn't accepted all the changes made to
    Firefox in its code. And while I had hoped it would
    at least fix the video playback, I doubt they'll ever
    fix that.

    I use the Firefox in Linux now, as one way of
    getting a compliant browser. But I only use that
    when the need arises. Mostly I'm using Seamonkey,
    but it's got issues, and it is "not keeping up" with
    modern times.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Feb 6 07:22:31 2025
    On Sun, 2/2/2025 12:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
    to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark, >>>>>>> helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.

          Paul



    Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
    8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
    to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
    Win 10 hd already installed.

    Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?

    I did however run HD Tune on the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq

    https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN

    https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf


    Robert

    Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.

    There are some downward spikes. They're not always
    conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
    an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
    so the backups would not be falling onto the first
    four spikes downwards.

    The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
    above the main line. But maybe that was also present
    when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
    seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.

    HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
    tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
    with the SMART table there, is it does not include
    the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
    includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
    to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
    it's just additional information. For example, one
    of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
    short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
    bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
    of the short test, must have been plowing through there.

    It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
    I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
    backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
    disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
    Pretty low odds.

    I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
    here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
    out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
    run here without an issue.

    Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
    raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
    "Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
    I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
    while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
    of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
    to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
    principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
    a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
    The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
    after an end-to-end disk write.

    If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
    pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
    The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
    it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
    than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
    did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
    judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
    Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
    status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
    bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
    the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
    The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
    Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
    way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
    so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
    with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
    nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
    many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.

         Paul



    I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
    That crop out of nowhere.

    The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
    include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.

    https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5

    https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM

    https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF

    Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?

    Thanks,
    Robert





    Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
    780.

    As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
    anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
    didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
    it doesn't have the SMART table.

    How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
    I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
    it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.

    I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
    old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
    probably already formatted but I would need to bring
    Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
    my bookmarks over.

    I'll let you know if I have problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
    those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
    get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
    would equate to a lot of backups :-)

        Paul


    I ran mrimgs on the 780 and 8500 and no issues this time.

    780

    https://postimg.cc/HcThCs7J


    8500

    https://postimg.cc/F1sBWz48

    Robert

    That's about 100 and 140MB/sec. That's sorta my average
    for hard drive backups. None of them go all that fast.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Feb 10 04:27:54 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 2/2/2025 12:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
    to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark, >>>>>>>> helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.

          Paul



    Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
    8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
    to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
    Win 10 hd already installed.

    Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?

    I did however run HD Tune on the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq

    https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN

    https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf


    Robert

    Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.

    There are some downward spikes. They're not always
    conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
    an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
    so the backups would not be falling onto the first
    four spikes downwards.

    The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
    above the main line. But maybe that was also present
    when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
    seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.

    HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
    tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
    with the SMART table there, is it does not include
    the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
    includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
    to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
    it's just additional information. For example, one
    of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
    short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
    bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
    of the short test, must have been plowing through there.

    It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
    I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
    backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
    disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
    Pretty low odds.

    I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
    here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
    out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
    run here without an issue.

    Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
    raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
    "Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
    I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
    while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
    of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
    to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
    principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
    a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
    The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
    after an end-to-end disk write.

    If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
    pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
    The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
    it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
    than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
    did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
    judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
    Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
    status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
    bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
    the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
    The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
    Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
    way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
    so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
    with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
    nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
    many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.

         Paul



    I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
    That crop out of nowhere.

    The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
    include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.

    https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5

    https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM

    https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF

    Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?

    Thanks,
    Robert





    Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
    780.

    As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
    anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
    didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
    it doesn't have the SMART table.

    How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
    I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
    it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.

    I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
    old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
    probably already formatted but I would need to bring
    Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
    my bookmarks over.

    I'll let you know if I have problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
    those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
    get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
    would equate to a lot of backups :-)

        Paul


    I ran mrimgs on the 780 and 8500 and no issues this time.

    780

    https://postimg.cc/HcThCs7J


    8500

    https://postimg.cc/F1sBWz48

    Robert

    That's about 100 and 140MB/sec. That's sorta my average
    for hard drive backups. None of them go all that fast.

    Paul



    I thought I had sent this to you but I guess not. On my side I have a
    warning on Seamonkey saying I'm using an older Version V2.53.19 and they
    have a download for V2.53.20 and was wondering if I should click it or
    not? I thought we already did this?

    There's a message on the bottom saying if you've already installed the
    newer version to try resetting my user agent string to the default. I
    don't even know what that means or how to do it?

    https://postimg.cc/HjKpC1j3

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Feb 10 04:18:39 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 2/2/2025 12:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK

    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying
    to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark, >>>>>>>> helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened.

          Paul



    Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
    8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
    to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
    Win 10 hd already installed.

    Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?

    I did however run HD Tune on the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq

    https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN

    https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf


    Robert

    Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.

    There are some downward spikes. They're not always
    conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
    an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
    so the backups would not be falling onto the first
    four spikes downwards.

    The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
    above the main line. But maybe that was also present
    when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
    seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.

    HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
    tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
    with the SMART table there, is it does not include
    the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
    includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
    to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
    it's just additional information. For example, one
    of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
    short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
    bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
    of the short test, must have been plowing through there.

    It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
    I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
    backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
    disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
    Pretty low odds.

    I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
    here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
    out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
    run here without an issue.

    Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
    raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
    "Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
    I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
    while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
    of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
    to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
    principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
    a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
    The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
    after an end-to-end disk write.

    If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
    pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
    The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
    it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
    than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
    did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
    judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
    Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
    status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
    bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
    the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
    The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
    Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
    way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
    so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter,
    with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
    nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
    many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.

         Paul



    I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
    That crop out of nowhere.

    The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
    include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.

    https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5

    https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM

    https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF

    Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?

    Thanks,
    Robert





    Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
    780.

    As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
    anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
    didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
    it doesn't have the SMART table.

    How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
    I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
    it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.

    I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
    old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
    probably already formatted but I would need to bring
    Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
    my bookmarks over.

    I'll let you know if I have problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
    those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
    get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
    would equate to a lot of backups :-)

        Paul


    I ran mrimgs on the 780 and 8500 and no issues this time.

    780

    https://postimg.cc/HcThCs7J


    8500

    https://postimg.cc/F1sBWz48

    Robert

    That's about 100 and 140MB/sec. That's sorta my average
    for hard drive backups. None of them go all that fast.

    Paul



    I ran HD-Tune again,.


    780 - the first two pics are at different times,..

    https://postimg.cc/LYbvbXyt

    https://postimg.cc/jCBZ6DnK

    https://postimg.cc/WhrS5s0Z

    https://postimg.cc/nXJ25N1P


    8500 - this time it shows the SMART table.

    https://postimg.cc/3yrBrpVj

    https://postimg.cc/xX5vZ88X

    https://postimg.cc/k60KSt1p

    https://postimg.cc/PPzYLJmS


    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Feb 11 06:09:14 2025
    On Mon, 2/10/2025 7:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I thought I had sent this to you but I guess not. On my side I have a warning on Seamonkey saying I'm using an older Version V2.53.19 and they have a download for V2.53.20 and was wondering if I should click it or not? I thought we already did this?

    There's a message on the bottom saying if you've already installed the newer version to try resetting my user agent string to the default. I don't even know what that means or how to do it?

    https://postimg.cc/HjKpC1j3

    Robert

    You can add the setting manually, at this URL.
    The general.useragent.override isn't in the about:config
    at the moment.

    about:config

    general.useragent.override STRING <useragent string goes here>

    *******

    This shows what it would normally say. You don't need the override if it reports this.

    https://www.whatismybrowser.com/detect/what-is-my-user-agent/

    Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20

    None of this should really be necessary, but you can check
    and see what yours is doing right now.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Feb 11 05:48:42 2025
    On Mon, 2/10/2025 7:18 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 2/2/2025 12:35 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 1/19/2025 4:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 1/11/2025 1:33 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 1/10/2025 1:20 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    You won't believe it but right after they restored power
    after 2 days off they cut it off again at midnight and I
    didn't get power back until 9am. Luckily the computer is OK >>>>>>>>>>
    Robert

    The grayed out buttons could be the result of Macrium trying >>>>>>>>> to back up to the external drive, and it is having trouble
    with the write calibration.

    If it was my drive, I'd check the S.M.A.R.T table
    and run a bench on it (by installing the drive in a PC
    as a secondary drive, and then working on it). A read benchmark, >>>>>>>>> helps identify if there are bad areas on the disk, and the
    benchmark gives a bit more warning about the condition
    of the drive, than the SMART table does. But you check the
    SMART table anyway, because it has a history of how the
    drive is feeling. A thorough SMART report, includes drive
    attempts to run the short-test for itself, and what happened. >>>>>>>>>
           Paul



    Hmmmm I don't know that I want to install the 780 hd in the
    8500 to run benchmark testing and besides I have no idea how
    to check the S.M.A.R.T table. I would also have to remove the
    Win 10 hd already installed.

    Could I not access the S.M.A.R.T. tables via BIOS?

    I did however run HD Tune on the 780:

    https://postimg.cc/bdVyxQLq

    https://postimg.cc/GHZbNdZN

    https://postimg.cc/zyKqY4Nf


    Robert

    Nothing looks out of sorts there so far.

    There are some downward spikes. They're not always
    conclusive, due to OS activity. Your backup disk has
    an OS installation at the beginning of the disk,
    so the backups would not be falling onto the first
    four spikes downwards.

    The seek dots in yellow, there is a spray of them
    above the main line. But maybe that was also present
    when the disk was new. I've had disks here, with the
    seek dots over the main band, when the drive was new.

    HDTune does have a SMART table in it, it's in the
    tab you did not get a picture of. The only problem
    with the SMART table there, is it does not include
    the "SMART log" area. There is a Linux program that
    includes those. Again, this is not absolutely essential
    to determining whether a drive is a "keep or discard",
    it's just additional information. For example, one
    of these listings someone shared with me recently, the
    short test was refusing to run, and there seemed to be a
    bad spot on the disk where access was slow. And some part
    of the short test, must have been plowing through there.

    It's because the spikes aren't all over the place, that
    I'm not immediately concerned. There is one spike in the
    backup portion of the disk, but what are the odds the
    disk calibration was applied, right on top of that spot ?
    Pretty low odds.

    I can't say I've ever had your symptoms on a machine
    here, doing a backup. The little calibration, that figures
    out the "best speed and size" for the backup chunks, has
    run here without an issue.

    Check your SMART table in HDTune, and see if "Reallocated"
    raw data is >0 or not. That is one to watch. The
    "Current Pending" raw data should also be checked, because
    I've had one with a Current Pending that was non-zero
    while the Reallocated was still 0. And that was an indication
    of a "growing defect pattern". When you write a disk from end
    to end, that clears the Current Pending, but it could in
    principle cause the Reallocated number to increase. On
    a disk which is on its last legs, that's what happens.
    The Current Pending count ends up added to the Reallocated,
    after an end-to-end disk write.

    If you have a defectivity problem there, your benchmark
    pattern does not have a "wide bad area" to distort Reallocated.
    The Reallocated should read true on your disk, and when
    it goes non-zero, then the disk is a little less trustworthy
    than before. Modern disks don't fail abruptly like older disks
    did, so when a disk is a little less trustworthy, it's a
    judgment call as to when is a good time to replace it.
    Rather than "replace" a drive like that, I just write the
    status on the outside ("reallocations" or "DNU" for really
    bad ones). DoNotUse. I opened up a DNU the other day, and
    the 250GB drive, the design has no plastic landing ramp.
    The drive design had the heads landing on the platter!
    Surprised the hell out of me, seeing that. That's a strange
    way to "cheap out" on a drive design. Yours are three-platter,
    so they will be using ramps for that. Mine was a single platter, >>>>>>> with no ramp to rest the heads. The surface was clean, and
    nothing to see without a microscope in hand. But it had too
    many "issues" to be used any more. Not failed, but not useful.

          Paul



    I do seem to have some unusual problems from time to time
    That crop out of nowhere.

    The Heath Tab (Smart table)was empty which is why I didn’t
    include it. However I ran HD Tune again for you.

    https://postimg.cc/1nZkWpf5

    https://postimg.cc/JtxfqHmM

    https://postimg.cc/qzZ9ffzF

    Hmmmmmmmmm do you think I need to replace my hd in the 780?

    Thanks,
    Robert





    Yes, I was using the USB3 port we installed on the
    780.

    As you noted the third picture doesn't contain
    anything at all and just says N/A. That's why I
    didn't include it the first time but kind of strange
    it doesn't have the SMART table.

    How about we do this. I'll monitor the drive and
    I'll run scans take HD-Tune tests and we'll see if
    it hangs up again next mrimg or has any other problems.

    I checked and I do have spare hd's for it. One is the
    old 2TB backup hd and I have another. They are
    probably already formatted but I would need to bring
    Word, Excel Dell imaging, my Anti virus suite and
    my bookmarks over.

    I'll let you know if I have problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It's hard to believe there are enough service hours on
    those drives, for them to be tanking already. I usually
    get 7000-8000 hours from the bad drives here. And that
    would equate to a lot of backups :-)

         Paul


    I ran mrimgs on the 780 and 8500 and no issues this time.

    780

    https://postimg.cc/HcThCs7J


    8500

    https://postimg.cc/F1sBWz48

    Robert

    That's about 100 and 140MB/sec. That's sorta my average
    for hard drive backups. None of them go all that fast.

        Paul



    I ran HD-Tune again,.


    780 - the first two pics are at different times,..

    https://postimg.cc/LYbvbXyt 2TB, thin spikes, 200..100MB/sec

    https://postimg.cc/jCBZ6DnK Spikes moved a bit, seek dot extremes also moved

    https://postimg.cc/WhrS5s0Z Info table for drive (all boxes are ticked, as they could not be read...)

    https://postimg.cc/nXJ25N1P No health table, no SMART Passthru on USB ?


    8500 - this time it shows the SMART table.

    https://postimg.cc/3yrBrpVj 2TB, thin spikes, 200..100MB/sec, seek dots look excellent

    https://postimg.cc/xX5vZ88X Info table for drive, notes no AAM which is correct

    https://postimg.cc/k60KSt1p Health table OK (passthru working), zero reallocated

    https://postimg.cc/PPzYLJmS Health table zero for Current Pending


    Robert

    At a guess, the second drive is OK. The seek dots make me happy.
    The Health table, which works on that enclosure, does not add any
    additional color to the result, just confirms it is OK.

    The first drive, we didn't get a health table from the enclosure,
    so there is no readout there. The seek dots indicate the drive
    is a bit flabby. The first drive is on a weaker machine, but still,
    I don't think I have any drives here where the seek dots are that
    far up the screen. It looks like several rotations before the seek
    is finished.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/43NmHcmh/HDTune-Seagate-3-TB-Benchmark.gif

    *******

    I've seen brand new drives, where the seek dots were off a bit,
    and I don't know what to make of that. I've seen a spray of
    dots outside the main band. Other drives are like your second
    drive, where the dots are all within the band. It implies the
    drive knows how to seek, or that the interrupt service routine
    is coming back when the message comes back that it is done
    (tagged queuing, the drive indicates which tag completed
    when it indicates a command is finished). If the machine was
    under I/O load, perhaps that would be an excuse, but I doubt
    that is it. Like if you were playing a 3D computer game at the time,
    the HDTune might not look right.

    To get around the "no table" problem, that means putting the
    drive in a tray and putting it inside the computer, instead
    of using the enclosure. But we can use the seek dots as a
    quick proxy, that for whatever reason, the drive is not
    as happy as the other one. I expect a new drive would have
    a better seek dot pattern.

    Paul

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Feb 11 15:55:18 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 2/10/2025 7:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I thought I had sent this to you but I guess not. On my side I have a warning on Seamonkey saying I'm using an older Version V2.53.19 and they have a download for V2.53.20 and was wondering if I should click it or not? I thought we already did this?

    There's a message on the bottom saying if you've already installed the newer version to try resetting my user agent string to the default. I don't even know what that means or how to do it?

    https://postimg.cc/HjKpC1j3

    Robert

    You can add the setting manually, at this URL.
    The general.useragent.override isn't in the about:config
    at the moment.

    about:config

    general.useragent.override STRING <useragent string goes here>

    *******

    This shows what it would normally say. You don't need the override if it reports this.

    https://www.whatismybrowser.com/detect/what-is-my-user-agent/

    Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20

    None of this should really be necessary, but you can check
    and see what yours is doing right now.

    Paul




    Hmmm I don't like going into about:config

    I used the link you provided and this is
    what it gave me:

    https://postimg.cc/ThfP9f0w

    Was I suppose to download this?


    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Feb 12 06:57:16 2025
    On Tue, 2/11/2025 6:55 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Hmmm I don't like going into about:config

    I used the link you provided and this is
    what it gave me:

    https://postimg.cc/ThfP9f0w

    Was I suppose to download this?


    Robert

    That's so you can see what the web sites see, when you connect
    to a web site.

    That looks like the browser running on a Windows 7 computer...

    The Windows 7 browser at some point, the ESR version is pretty close to
    the end of its updates (the updates are all versions of 115ESR). That is pretty well the last browser that receives updates and runs on Windows 7.

    Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; Win64; x64; rv:109.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/115.0

    You can override that string, and put some other string in its place.
    This is the Seamonkey string by default without an override, for 2.53.20 .

    Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20

    Web sites do not entirely rely on that string. But some web sites
    dismiss you out of hand, when you present an older browser, and that
    is likely how they detect what you are using. The other method
    is "capability" based, and they do a test to see if your Javascript
    engine understands the newest concepts, then they reject you :-)
    That's why, playing with the UserAgent string (via the Config Editor),
    does not guarantee you can fool everyone.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Feb 13 00:59:56 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 2/11/2025 6:55 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Hmmm I don't like going into about:config

    I used the link you provided and this is
    what it gave me:

    https://postimg.cc/ThfP9f0w

    Was I suppose to download this?


    Robert

    That's so you can see what the web sites see, when you connect
    to a web site.

    That looks like the browser running on a Windows 7 computer...

    The Windows 7 browser at some point, the ESR version is pretty close to
    the end of its updates (the updates are all versions of 115ESR). That is pretty
    well the last browser that receives updates and runs on Windows 7.

    Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; Win64; x64; rv:109.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/115.0

    You can override that string, and put some other string in its place.
    This is the Seamonkey string by default without an override, for 2.53.20 .

    Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20

    Web sites do not entirely rely on that string. But some web sites
    dismiss you out of hand, when you present an older browser, and that
    is likely how they detect what you are using. The other method
    is "capability" based, and they do a test to see if your Javascript
    engine understands the newest concepts, then they reject you :-)
    That's why, playing with the UserAgent string (via the Config Editor),
    does not guarantee you can fool everyone.

    Paul



    So should I replace the string and if so how do I do it?
    In about:config? As I said, I don't like going in there
    or should I download the newer version? That means
    setting up Seamonkey all over again or do I just leave it
    as is ?

    Also in eBay I find when I click an item(smoking pipes)the
    other pictures do not open up but if I open/close the item
    several times it then it does but not always. This doesn't happen
    on all items but allot of them. I attribute this to the changes
    they've made over time to eBay. In my opinion they've made
    it worst.

    Thanks,
    Robert




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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Feb 13 07:28:05 2025
    On Thu, 2/13/2025 3:59 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    So should I replace the string and if so how do I do it?
    In about:config? As I said, I don't like going in there
    or should I download the newer version? That means
    setting up Seamonkey all over again or do I just leave it
    as is ?

    Also in eBay I find when I click an item(smoking pipes)the
    other pictures do not open up but if I open/close the item
    several times it then it does but not always. This doesn't happen
    on all items but allot of them. I attribute this to the changes
    they've made over time to eBay. In my opinion they've made
    it worst.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Most times I would be advising you to take the latest and greatest browser.

    However, in this case, one of the .18 browsers is better than the .20 browser. More web sites seem to be "abusing" the .20 browser, I'm seeming
    more glitches and so on -- the activity makes me "nervous" :-)

    What have they done, to make web sites abuse it ? I don't know. But it implies one
    of the standard addition files (like a Google file) could be doing it.

    about:config

    general.useragent.override STRING Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20

    *******

    That is stored in the prefs.js file.

    You can make a backup copy of the profile folder which has
    data files (cookies.sqlite) with todays date on them.

    After installing one of those Config Editor lines, you should find the lines in the prefs.js
    mostly in alphabetical order, and you'd see something like this line added to the file.
    I used a shortened example of a string, so it doesn't go too far off the side of the screen.

    user_pref("general.useragent.override", "Your fake Useragent goes here");

    If the data-type was some other type, then it would be unlikely to have double-quotes (for a string) around the second part like that. For example,
    an integer value is just , 17); and doesn't have double quotes around it.

    Now, we're discussing what it looks like inside the prefs.js in the last
    few lines. The Configuration Editor likely mentions the newly created item
    is a STRING. But when the value is stored in the file, the string indication
    is done with the existence of double-quotes around the data value.

    If you want the default Useragent string to come back, just delete that line. The line does not exist in the file, so you will be adding a "New String" to the file.
    And later if you did not want it, you could search for useragent, then delete the line
    that exactly matches your intent, in the Configuration Editor.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Feb 14 12:21:51 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 2/13/2025 3:59 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    So should I replace the string and if so how do I do it?
    In about:config? As I said, I don't like going in there
    or should I download the newer version? That means
    setting up Seamonkey all over again or do I just leave it
    as is ?

    Also in eBay I find when I click an item(smoking pipes)the
    other pictures do not open up but if I open/close the item
    several times it then it does but not always. This doesn't happen
    on all items but allot of them. I attribute this to the changes
    they've made over time to eBay. In my opinion they've made
    it worst.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Most times I would be advising you to take the latest and greatest browser.

    However, in this case, one of the .18 browsers is better than the .20 browser.
    More web sites seem to be "abusing" the .20 browser, I'm seeming
    more glitches and so on -- the activity makes me "nervous" :-)

    What have they done, to make web sites abuse it ? I don't know. But it implies one
    of the standard addition files (like a Google file) could be doing it.

    about:config

    general.useragent.override STRING Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20

    *******

    That is stored in the prefs.js file.

    You can make a backup copy of the profile folder which has
    data files (cookies.sqlite) with todays date on them.

    After installing one of those Config Editor lines, you should find the lines in the prefs.js
    mostly in alphabetical order, and you'd see something like this line added to the file.
    I used a shortened example of a string, so it doesn't go too far off the side of the screen.

    user_pref("general.useragent.override", "Your fake Useragent goes here");

    If the data-type was some other type, then it would be unlikely to have double-quotes (for a string) around the second part like that. For example, an integer value is just , 17); and doesn't have double quotes around it.

    Now, we're discussing what it looks like inside the prefs.js in the last
    few lines. The Configuration Editor likely mentions the newly created item
    is a STRING. But when the value is stored in the file, the string indication is done with the existence of double-quotes around the data value.

    If you want the default Useragent string to come back, just delete that line. The line does not exist in the file, so you will be adding a "New String" to the file.
    And later if you did not want it, you could search for useragent, then delete the line
    that exactly matches your intent, in the Configuration Editor.

    Paul


    Just so I understand, given my history, you want me to go into
    about:config and enter this:

    about:config

    general.useragent.override STRING Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0;
    Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20


    correct?

    Robert




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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Feb 15 03:27:13 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 2/13/2025 3:59 AM, Robert in CA wrote:

    So should I replace the string and if so how do I do it?
    In about:config? As I said, I don't like going in there
    or should I download the newer version? That means
    setting up Seamonkey all over again or do I just leave it
    as is ?

    Also in eBay I find when I click an item(smoking pipes)the
    other pictures do not open up but if I open/close the item
    several times it then it does but not always. This doesn't happen
    on all items but allot of them. I attribute this to the changes
    they've made over time to eBay. In my opinion they've made
    it worst.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Most times I would be advising you to take the latest and greatest browser.

    However, in this case, one of the .18 browsers is better than the .20 browser.
    More web sites seem to be "abusing" the .20 browser, I'm seeming
    more glitches and so on -- the activity makes me "nervous" :-)

    What have they done, to make web sites abuse it ? I don't know. But it implies one
    of the standard addition files (like a Google file) could be doing it.

    about:config

    general.useragent.override STRING Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20

    *******

    That is stored in the prefs.js file.

    You can make a backup copy of the profile folder which has
    data files (cookies.sqlite) with todays date on them.

    After installing one of those Config Editor lines, you should find the lines in the prefs.js
    mostly in alphabetical order, and you'd see something like this line added to the file.
    I used a shortened example of a string, so it doesn't go too far off the side of the screen.

    user_pref("general.useragent.override", "Your fake Useragent goes here");

    If the data-type was some other type, then it would be unlikely to have double-quotes (for a string) around the second part like that. For example, an integer value is just , 17); and doesn't have double quotes around it.

    Now, we're discussing what it looks like inside the prefs.js in the last
    few lines. The Configuration Editor likely mentions the newly created item
    is a STRING. But when the value is stored in the file, the string indication is done with the existence of double-quotes around the data value.

    If you want the default Useragent string to come back, just delete that line. The line does not exist in the file, so you will be adding a "New String" to the file.
    And later if you did not want it, you could search for useragent, then delete the line
    that exactly matches your intent, in the Configuration Editor.

    Paul


    How do I make a backup of my profiles folder?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Feb 15 08:32:30 2025
    On Sat, 2/15/2025 6:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    How do I make a backup of my profiles folder?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\122k63cr.default
    ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^

    1) start Seamonkey
    2) Make sure Menu Bar is enabled
    Upper pane area, right click, select Menu so it is ticked.
    (you can see File,Edit,View,Options,Tools,Help now near the top)
    3) Select Edit:Preferences from the Menu bar.
    4) Advanced:Cache

    Look for an absolute path line on that page of the Preferences:

    122k63cr.default
    ^^^^^^^^

    The string on the end, tells you the identifier of the profile folder.
    Now, take the string above, and add that short bit above, to the end.

    C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\ <=== WhatEverYoursSays.default

    The "122k63cr.default" (or similar with different random alphanumeric)
    is the folder you want to back up. This has the prefs.js file. It actually
    has two of those files, but the one at the top level is for the entire browser.
    That folder also has "cookies.sqlite" and "webappsstore.sqlite" in it.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Feb 15 08:16:00 2025
    On Fri, 2/14/2025 3:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Just so I understand, given my history, you want me to go into about:config and enter this:

    about:config

    general.useragent.override   STRING    Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20


    correct?

    Robert

    That's if you want it to look like you had loaded version 2.53.20 .

    The web sites don't really like Seamonkey anyway, so fiddling the minor
    release number is hardly likely to impress them :-)

    You could, for example, enter the string that Firefox presents, to make
    it look like an advanced copy of Firefox, but who would that fool ? As soon as any capability challenge is presented (some javascript file), then
    they will know the UserAgent is fabricated.

    This used to be a favored way, to make a web site do something for you.
    But the codes and behaviors are more complex now, and UserAgent spoofing
    is not of as much value as it once was. There are some sites which are dismissing your browser, based on that string. In which case if you
    were spoofing, you would use a Firefox or a Chrome string instead.
    And one with the latest release number in it.

    To do that, you have to either use the advanced browser you plan on
    spoofing, to get the exact string. Or, find a web site that lists
    all the browser strings (the list is huge, the day is only so long).
    And after doing all the work, we don't know which kinds of sites
    the spoofing will work with.

    I'm describing a general capability to you. I don't go around
    spoofing sites, because I don't expect them to fall for it. But
    if you want to get to a site bad enough, you can test it and
    see if it works.

    This is the latest Firefox. The NT 10.0 applies to both Windows 10 and Windows 11.

    Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:135.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/135.0

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Feb 15 18:55:35 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 2/15/2025 6:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    How do I make a backup of my profiles folder?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\122k63cr.default
    ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^

    1) start Seamonkey
    2) Make sure Menu Bar is enabled
    Upper pane area, right click, select Menu so it is ticked.
    (you can see File,Edit,View,Options,Tools,Help now near the top)
    3) Select Edit:Preferences from the Menu bar.
    4) Advanced:Cache

    Look for an absolute path line on that page of the Preferences:

    122k63cr.default
    ^^^^^^^^

    The string on the end, tells you the identifier of the profile folder.
    Now, take the string above, and add that short bit above, to the end.

    C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\ <=== WhatEverYoursSays.default

    The "122k63cr.default" (or similar with different random alphanumeric)
    is the folder you want to back up. This has the prefs.js file. It actually
    has two of those files, but the one at the top level is for the entire browser.
    That folder also has "cookies.sqlite" and "webappsstore.sqlite" in it.

    Paul



    I followed your instructions but when in Advanced
    I saw nothing with Cache or the default.

    https://postimg.cc/9RnMRmWX

    https://postimg.cc/BtjtWKgj

    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Feb 23 23:15:57 2025
    On Sat, 2/15/2025 9:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 2/15/2025 6:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    How do I make a backup of my profiles folder?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\122k63cr.default
              ^^^^^^^^                                            ^^^^^^^^

    1) start Seamonkey
    2) Make sure Menu Bar is enabled
        Upper pane area, right click, select Menu so it is ticked.
        (you can see File,Edit,View,Options,Tools,Help now near the top)
    3) Select Edit:Preferences from the Menu bar.
    4) Advanced:Cache

        Look for an absolute path line on that page of the Preferences:

                                        122k63cr.default
                                        ^^^^^^^^

        The string on the end, tells you the identifier of the profile folder.
        Now, take the string above, and add that short bit above, to the end. >>
        C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\   <===   WhatEverYoursSays.default

        The "122k63cr.default" (or similar with different random alphanumeric)
        is the folder you want to back up. This has the prefs.js file. It actually
        has two of those files, but the one at the top level is for the entire browser.
        That folder also has "cookies.sqlite" and "webappsstore.sqlite" in it.

       Paul



    I followed your instructions but when in Advanced
    I saw nothing with Cache or the default.

    https://postimg.cc/9RnMRmWX

    https://postimg.cc/BtjtWKgj

    Robert

    Looks like I screwed that up.

    Let's try that again:

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/zBVFwV3Z/seamonkey-profile-folder.gif

    The folder should have Mail and News, as items.
    That helps you tell it's the correct folder, of the two of them.
    The other one, has the cache2, but it isn't important and is
    derived from daily activity. I clean that out occasionally, as
    an example it is not important, the cache2 content. That's
    the browser cache that keeps browser pages for faster loading
    a second time. if the web server signals "you should take a new
    copy", then the cache content is ignored and a fresh copy is
    downloaded. That is what the other folder does for you, but
    it doesn't need to be backed up, that cache2 folder.

    But the one with Mail and News in it, could have the Inbox of
    mail or the newsgroups of USENET News.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Feb 24 00:58:05 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 2/15/2025 9:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 2/15/2025 6:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    How do I make a backup of my profiles folder?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\122k63cr.default
              ^^^^^^^^                                            ^^^^^^^^

    1) start Seamonkey
    2) Make sure Menu Bar is enabled
        Upper pane area, right click, select Menu so it is ticked.
        (you can see File,Edit,View,Options,Tools,Help now near the top) >>> 3) Select Edit:Preferences from the Menu bar.
    4) Advanced:Cache

        Look for an absolute path line on that page of the Preferences:

                                        122k63cr.default
                                        ^^^^^^^^

        The string on the end, tells you the identifier of the profile folder.
        Now, take the string above, and add that short bit above, to the end.

        C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\   <===   WhatEverYoursSays.default

        The "122k63cr.default" (or similar with different random alphanumeric)
        is the folder you want to back up. This has the prefs.js file. It actually
        has two of those files, but the one at the top level is for the entire browser.
        That folder also has "cookies.sqlite" and "webappsstore.sqlite" in it.

       Paul



    I followed your instructions but when in Advanced
    I saw nothing with Cache or the default.

    https://postimg.cc/9RnMRmWX

    https://postimg.cc/BtjtWKgj

    Robert

    Looks like I screwed that up.

    Let's try that again:

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/zBVFwV3Z/seamonkey-profile-folder.gif

    The folder should have Mail and News, as items.
    That helps you tell it's the correct folder, of the two of them.
    The other one, has the cache2, but it isn't important and is
    derived from daily activity. I clean that out occasionally, as
    an example it is not important, the cache2 content. That's
    the browser cache that keeps browser pages for faster loading
    a second time. if the web server signals "you should take a new
    copy", then the cache content is ignored and a fresh copy is
    downloaded. That is what the other folder does for you, but
    it doesn't need to be backed up, that cache2 folder.

    But the one with Mail and News in it, could have the Inbox of
    mail or the newsgroups of USENET News.

    Paul




    I hope I did it correctly,...

    https://postimg.cc/nsss5vy5

    https://postimg.cc/tsk8scg0

    https://postimg.cc/r0Zfc6gj


    now ,.. enter the commands,.. is that 2
    spaces between override and STRING
    and 3 spaces after?


    about:config

    general.useragent.override STRING Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0;
    Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20


    Thanks,
    Robert



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Feb 27 22:31:12 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 2/24/2025 3:58 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 2/15/2025 9:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 2/15/2025 6:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    How do I make a backup of my profiles folder?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\122k63cr.default
               ^^^^^^^^                                            ^^^^^^^^

    1) start Seamonkey
    2) Make sure Menu Bar is enabled
         Upper pane area, right click, select Menu so it is ticked. >>>>>      (you can see File,Edit,View,Options,Tools,Help now near the top)
    3) Select Edit:Preferences from the Menu bar.
    4) Advanced:Cache

         Look for an absolute path line on that page of the Preferences: >>>>>
                                         122k63cr.default
                                         ^^^^^^^^

         The string on the end, tells you the identifier of the profile folder.
         Now, take the string above, and add that short bit above, to the end.

         C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\   <===   WhatEverYoursSays.default

         The "122k63cr.default" (or similar with different random alphanumeric)
         is the folder you want to back up. This has the prefs.js file. It actually
         has two of those files, but the one at the top level is for the entire browser.
         That folder also has "cookies.sqlite" and "webappsstore.sqlite" in it.

        Paul



    I followed your instructions but when in Advanced
    I saw nothing with Cache or the default.

    https://postimg.cc/9RnMRmWX

    https://postimg.cc/BtjtWKgj

    Robert

    Looks like I screwed that up.

    Let's try that again:

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/zBVFwV3Z/seamonkey-profile-folder.gif

    The folder should have Mail and News, as items.
    That helps you tell it's the correct folder, of the two of them.
    The other one, has the cache2, but it isn't important and is
    derived from daily activity. I clean that out occasionally, as
    an example it is not important, the cache2 content. That's
    the browser cache that keeps browser pages for faster loading
    a second time. if the web server signals "you should take a new
    copy", then the cache content is ignored and a fresh copy is
    downloaded. That is what the other folder does for you, but
    it doesn't need to be backed up, that cache2 folder.

    But the one with Mail and News in it, could have the Inbox of
    mail or the newsgroups of USENET News.

        Paul




    I hope I did it correctly,...

    https://postimg.cc/nsss5vy5

    https://postimg.cc/tsk8scg0

    https://postimg.cc/r0Zfc6gj


    now ,..  enter the commands,.. is that 2
    spaces between override and STRING
    and 3 spaces after?


    about:config

    general.useragent.override   STRING    Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20


    Thanks,
    Robert

    In your first picture, I'm using Agent Ransack to do a search for the folder. Really, editing the path and putting the word "Roaming" in the path, would have worked as well. I don't know if you have Agent Ransack installed or not, but it is a search tool. I thought it might be easier to locate the two instances,
    and find the one that has Mail and News folders in it, as that is the valuable one
    worth backing up.

    https://postimg.cc/nsss5vy5 <=== your picture

    *******

    In your second picture, you seem to have located the correct folder,
    because Mail and News are in that folder.

    https://postimg.cc/tsk8scg0 <=== your picture

    *******

    In About:Config (the Configuration Editor for Firefox),..

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/XJRYJT7b/Firefox-General-User-Agent-Override.gif

    That should show you what it looks like.

    Paul



    Here's another off topic question,.. I went to buy another
    1TB Patriot stick but it doesn't have the buy option ? It
    only tells about the product.

    This is the same link I used to buy them before, so where
    do I buy Patriot sticks now? There seems lots of places but
    I'd prefer to buy it directly from Patriot.

    https://www.patriotmemory.com/patriot-gaming-usb-flash-drives


    Thanks,
    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Feb 28 02:07:15 2025
    On Fri, 2/28/2025 1:31 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Here's another off topic question,.. I went to buy another
    1TB Patriot stick but it doesn't have the buy option ? It
    only tells about the product.

    This is the same link I used to buy them before, so where
    do I buy Patriot sticks now? There seems lots of places but
    I'd prefer to buy it directly from Patriot.

    https://www.patriotmemory.com/patriot-gaming-usb-flash-drives


    Thanks,
    Robert

    They have some where-to-buy info here.

    https://www.patriotmemory.com/distributors/north-america

    https://www.bhphotovideo.com/

    https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1654861-REG/patriot_pef1tbrpmw32u_rage_prime_usb_3_2.html # $72.99 1TB

    In the upper right corner, it says "authorized dealer".
    which doesn't mean much, in an online scenario :-)

    For USB sticks in the 500GB, 1TB, 2TB region, there is
    a lot of fraud, so you are right to be cautious.

    Especially if a source of 1TB and 2TB sticks sells them for $10 and $15 :-) That's what scammers used to charge for the imaginary sticks, once
    upon a time. The people who bought them, were quite insistent
    they hadn't been scammed too. Which just adds to the comedy.

    A high price does not guarantee anything is legit, but at least
    the price is not at "warning level" of $10.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Feb 28 02:18:34 2025
    On Wed, 2/26/2025 6:02 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I have Agent Ransack installed but I just followed the file path.
    Hmmmm I typed about:config and right clicked it but it doesn't
    have the modify option.

    https://postimg.cc/BtLh2M8t

    Robert

    You're in Internet Explorer there, I suspect.

    Seamonkey 2.53.20 is like this.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/mgVDn2Dz/seamonkey-about-config.gif

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Mar 1 04:14:36 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 2/28/2025 1:31 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Here's another off topic question,.. I went to buy another
    1TB Patriot stick but it doesn't have the buy option ? It
    only tells about the product.

    This is the same link I used to buy them before, so where
    do I buy Patriot sticks now? There seems lots of places but
    I'd prefer to buy it directly from Patriot.

    https://www.patriotmemory.com/patriot-gaming-usb-flash-drives


    Thanks,
    Robert

    They have some where-to-buy info here.

    https://www.patriotmemory.com/distributors/north-america

    https://www.bhphotovideo.com/

    https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1654861-REG/patriot_pef1tbrpmw32u_rage_prime_usb_3_2.html # $72.99 1TB

    In the upper right corner, it says "authorized dealer".
    which doesn't mean much, in an online scenario :-)

    For USB sticks in the 500GB, 1TB, 2TB region, there is
    a lot of fraud, so you are right to be cautious.

    Especially if a source of 1TB and 2TB sticks sells them for $10 and $15 :-) That's what scammers used to charge for the imaginary sticks, once
    upon a time. The people who bought them, were quite insistent
    they hadn't been scammed too. Which just adds to the comedy.

    A high price does not guarantee anything is legit, but at least
    the price is not at "warning level" of $10.

    Paul


    Thanks for the links,... you'd think Patriot would have its own
    website to sell their products.

    What about the about:config and not finding the modify option?
    I'm almost forgetting what were doing,... to make the Seamonkey
    warning of an older version to go away so I don't have to download
    and set it all back up again.

    I've backed it up with the mail/ news in the same folder. So what
    do I do now?

    Thanks,
    Robert



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Feb 26 15:02:17 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 2/24/2025 3:58 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 2/15/2025 9:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 2/15/2025 6:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    How do I make a backup of my profiles folder?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\122k63cr.default
               ^^^^^^^^                                            ^^^^^^^^

    1) start Seamonkey
    2) Make sure Menu Bar is enabled
         Upper pane area, right click, select Menu so it is ticked. >>>>>      (you can see File,Edit,View,Options,Tools,Help now near the top)
    3) Select Edit:Preferences from the Menu bar.
    4) Advanced:Cache

         Look for an absolute path line on that page of the Preferences: >>>>>
                                         122k63cr.default
                                         ^^^^^^^^

         The string on the end, tells you the identifier of the profile folder.
         Now, take the string above, and add that short bit above, to the end.

         C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\   <===   WhatEverYoursSays.default

         The "122k63cr.default" (or similar with different random alphanumeric)
         is the folder you want to back up. This has the prefs.js file. It actually
         has two of those files, but the one at the top level is for the entire browser.
         That folder also has "cookies.sqlite" and "webappsstore.sqlite" in it.

        Paul



    I followed your instructions but when in Advanced
    I saw nothing with Cache or the default.

    https://postimg.cc/9RnMRmWX

    https://postimg.cc/BtjtWKgj

    Robert

    Looks like I screwed that up.

    Let's try that again:

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/zBVFwV3Z/seamonkey-profile-folder.gif

    The folder should have Mail and News, as items.
    That helps you tell it's the correct folder, of the two of them.
    The other one, has the cache2, but it isn't important and is
    derived from daily activity. I clean that out occasionally, as
    an example it is not important, the cache2 content. That's
    the browser cache that keeps browser pages for faster loading
    a second time. if the web server signals "you should take a new
    copy", then the cache content is ignored and a fresh copy is
    downloaded. That is what the other folder does for you, but
    it doesn't need to be backed up, that cache2 folder.

    But the one with Mail and News in it, could have the Inbox of
    mail or the newsgroups of USENET News.

        Paul




    I hope I did it correctly,...

    https://postimg.cc/nsss5vy5

    https://postimg.cc/tsk8scg0

    https://postimg.cc/r0Zfc6gj


    now ,..  enter the commands,.. is that 2
    spaces between override and STRING
    and 3 spaces after?


    about:config

    general.useragent.override   STRING    Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20


    Thanks,
    Robert

    In your first picture, I'm using Agent Ransack to do a search for the folder. Really, editing the path and putting the word "Roaming" in the path, would have worked as well. I don't know if you have Agent Ransack installed or not, but it is a search tool. I thought it might be easier to locate the two instances,
    and find the one that has Mail and News folders in it, as that is the valuable one
    worth backing up.

    https://postimg.cc/nsss5vy5 <=== your picture

    *******

    In your second picture, you seem to have located the correct folder,
    because Mail and News are in that folder.

    https://postimg.cc/tsk8scg0 <=== your picture

    *******

    In About:Config (the Configuration Editor for Firefox),..

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/XJRYJT7b/Firefox-General-User-Agent-Override.gif

    That should show you what it looks like.

    Paul



    I have Agent Ransack installed but I just followed the file path.
    Hmmmm I typed about:config and right clicked it but it doesn't
    have the modify option.

    https://postimg.cc/BtLh2M8t

    Robert




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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Feb 26 08:02:33 2025
    On Mon, 2/24/2025 3:58 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 2/15/2025 9:55 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 2/15/2025 6:27 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    How do I make a backup of my profiles folder?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\122k63cr.default
               ^^^^^^^^                                            ^^^^^^^^

    1) start Seamonkey
    2) Make sure Menu Bar is enabled
         Upper pane area, right click, select Menu so it is ticked.
         (you can see File,Edit,View,Options,Tools,Help now near the top) >>>> 3) Select Edit:Preferences from the Menu bar.
    4) Advanced:Cache

         Look for an absolute path line on that page of the Preferences: >>>>
                                         122k63cr.default
                                         ^^^^^^^^

         The string on the end, tells you the identifier of the profile folder.
         Now, take the string above, and add that short bit above, to the end.

         C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Mozilla\SeaMonkey\Profiles\   <===   WhatEverYoursSays.default

         The "122k63cr.default" (or similar with different random alphanumeric)
         is the folder you want to back up. This has the prefs.js file. It actually
         has two of those files, but the one at the top level is for the entire browser.
         That folder also has "cookies.sqlite" and "webappsstore.sqlite" in it.

        Paul



    I followed your instructions but when in Advanced
    I saw nothing with Cache or the default.

    https://postimg.cc/9RnMRmWX

    https://postimg.cc/BtjtWKgj

    Robert

    Looks like I screwed that up.

    Let's try that again:

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/zBVFwV3Z/seamonkey-profile-folder.gif

    The folder should have Mail and News, as items.
    That helps you tell it's the correct folder, of the two of them.
    The other one, has the cache2, but it isn't important and is
    derived from daily activity. I clean that out occasionally, as
    an example it is not important, the cache2 content. That's
    the browser cache that keeps browser pages for faster loading
    a second time. if the web server signals "you should take a new
    copy", then the cache content is ignored and a fresh copy is
    downloaded. That is what the other folder does for you, but
    it doesn't need to be backed up, that cache2 folder.

    But the one with Mail and News in it, could have the Inbox of
    mail or the newsgroups of USENET News.

        Paul




    I hope I did it correctly,...

    https://postimg.cc/nsss5vy5

    https://postimg.cc/tsk8scg0

    https://postimg.cc/r0Zfc6gj


    now ,..  enter the commands,.. is that 2
    spaces between override and STRING
    and 3 spaces after?


    about:config

    general.useragent.override   STRING    Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 10.0; Win64; x64; rv:128.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/128.0 SeaMonkey/2.53.20


    Thanks,
    Robert

    In your first picture, I'm using Agent Ransack to do a search for the folder. Really, editing the path and putting the word "Roaming" in the path, would
    have worked as well. I don't know if you have Agent Ransack installed or not, but it is a search tool. I thought it might be easier to locate the two instances,
    and find the one that has Mail and News folders in it, as that is the valuable one
    worth backing up.

    https://postimg.cc/nsss5vy5 <=== your picture

    *******

    In your second picture, you seem to have located the correct folder,
    because Mail and News are in that folder.

    https://postimg.cc/tsk8scg0 <=== your picture

    *******

    In About:Config (the Configuration Editor for Firefox),..

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/XJRYJT7b/Firefox-General-User-Agent-Override.gif

    That should show you what it looks like.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Mar 2 12:29:20 2025
    On Sat, 3/1/2025 7:14 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 2/28/2025 1:31 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Here's another off topic question,.. I went to buy another
    1TB Patriot stick but it doesn't have the buy option ? It
    only tells about the product.

    This is the same link I used to buy them before, so where
    do I buy Patriot sticks now? There seems lots of places but
    I'd prefer to buy it directly from Patriot.

    https://www.patriotmemory.com/patriot-gaming-usb-flash-drives


    Thanks,
    Robert

    They have some where-to-buy info here.

    https://www.patriotmemory.com/distributors/north-america

        https://www.bhphotovideo.com/

           https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1654861-REG/patriot_pef1tbrpmw32u_rage_prime_usb_3_2.html     # $72.99 1TB

    In the upper right corner, it says "authorized dealer".
    which doesn't mean much, in an online scenario :-)

    For USB sticks in the 500GB, 1TB, 2TB region, there is
    a lot of fraud, so you are right to be cautious.

    Especially if a source of 1TB and 2TB sticks sells them for $10 and $15 :-) >> That's what scammers used to charge for the imaginary sticks, once
    upon a time. The people who bought them, were quite insistent
    they hadn't been scammed too. Which just adds to the comedy.

    A high price does not guarantee anything is legit, but at least
    the price is not at "warning level" of $10.

        Paul


    Thanks for the links,... you'd think Patriot would have its own
    website to sell their products.

    What about the about:config and not finding the modify option?
    I'm almost forgetting what were doing,... to make the Seamonkey
    warning of an older version to go away so I don't have to download
    and set it all back up again.

    I've backed it up with the mail/ news in the same folder. So what
    do I do now?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    I explained that "User Agent spoofing is for fooling external web sites
    into thinking your browser is a modern one". Doing this does not
    fool the Seamonkey logic that wants to install 2.53.20 .

    Maybe the objective would be to fool Ebay into thinking you were
    using the latest Firefox when you were not using that. You can
    set the UserAgent string to "Firefox" details, and if the site only
    checks that aspect of your browser, then your browser would work.

    However, if a web site checks your browser for "capabilities", then
    it might fail such a test. They could test to see if your Javascript
    engine understands "the latest tweak". And the only reason they
    keep adding garbage to Javascript, is so they can tell when you're using
    an old browser.

    I don't sue UserAgent Spoofing myself, because I just switch browsers
    and platforms if I want to do business. This helps me up to a point,
    until a business website wants to do 2FA and a credit card number
    is not sufficient for them. For the site that does that, it means
    less business for them.

    I hope you can see the pluses and minuses of doing this. For dumb
    web design, it might work. With the availability of standard plugins
    for web pages that measure and sniff everything under the Sun,
    it's hard to imagine the dumber web designers would miss details
    like this, since the plugin does all the work for them. All it takes
    is one smart person to "weaponize" the web, and all the dumb designers
    to copy it, to ruin things.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Mar 2 23:50:14 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 3/1/2025 7:14 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 2/28/2025 1:31 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Here's another off topic question,.. I went to buy another
    1TB Patriot stick but it doesn't have the buy option ? It
    only tells about the product.

    This is the same link I used to buy them before, so where
    do I buy Patriot sticks now? There seems lots of places but
    I'd prefer to buy it directly from Patriot.

    https://www.patriotmemory.com/patriot-gaming-usb-flash-drives


    Thanks,
    Robert

    They have some where-to-buy info here.

    https://www.patriotmemory.com/distributors/north-america

        https://www.bhphotovideo.com/

           https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1654861-REG/patriot_pef1tbrpmw32u_rage_prime_usb_3_2.html     # $72.99 1TB

    In the upper right corner, it says "authorized dealer".
    which doesn't mean much, in an online scenario :-)

    For USB sticks in the 500GB, 1TB, 2TB region, there is
    a lot of fraud, so you are right to be cautious.

    Especially if a source of 1TB and 2TB sticks sells them for $10 and $15 :-) >>> That's what scammers used to charge for the imaginary sticks, once
    upon a time. The people who bought them, were quite insistent
    they hadn't been scammed too. Which just adds to the comedy.

    A high price does not guarantee anything is legit, but at least
    the price is not at "warning level" of $10.

        Paul


    Thanks for the links,... you'd think Patriot would have its own
    website to sell their products.

    What about the about:config and not finding the modify option?
    I'm almost forgetting what were doing,... to make the Seamonkey
    warning of an older version to go away so I don't have to download
    and set it all back up again.

    I've backed it up with the mail/ news in the same folder. So what
    do I do now?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    I explained that "User Agent spoofing is for fooling external web sites
    into thinking your browser is a modern one". Doing this does not
    fool the Seamonkey logic that wants to install 2.53.20 .

    Maybe the objective would be to fool Ebay into thinking you were
    using the latest Firefox when you were not using that. You can
    set the UserAgent string to "Firefox" details, and if the site only
    checks that aspect of your browser, then your browser would work.

    However, if a web site checks your browser for "capabilities", then
    it might fail such a test. They could test to see if your Javascript
    engine understands "the latest tweak". And the only reason they
    keep adding garbage to Javascript, is so they can tell when you're using
    an old browser.

    I don't sue UserAgent Spoofing myself, because I just switch browsers
    and platforms if I want to do business. This helps me up to a point,
    until a business website wants to do 2FA and a credit card number
    is not sufficient for them. For the site that does that, it means
    less business for them.

    I hope you can see the pluses and minuses of doing this. For dumb
    web design, it might work. With the availability of standard plugins
    for web pages that measure and sniff everything under the Sun,
    it's hard to imagine the dumber web designers would miss details
    like this, since the plugin does all the work for them. All it takes
    is one smart person to "weaponize" the web, and all the dumb designers
    to copy it, to ruin things.

    Paul




    Well I checked and FF is up to date so do you recommend doing nothing
    and just ignore the Seamonkey message? Everything seems to be working
    fine on this end.

    I went ahead and ordered a 1TB Patriot Key from the links you gave. I
    also completed this months mrimgs with no problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Mon Mar 3 03:50:47 2025
    On Mon, 3/3/2025 2:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Well I checked and FF is up to date so do you recommend doing nothing
    and just ignore the Seamonkey message? Everything seems to be working
    fine on this end.

    I went ahead and ordered a 1TB Patriot Key from the links you gave. I
    also completed this months mrimgs with no problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert


    I would ignore the update message for now, and perhaps 2.53.21
    will be better.

    I just noticed that .20 wasn't working as well here as I
    would have liked and I don't know what the problem is. There
    are the usual complaints by sites that have a Google plugin
    to check the browser version. And whatever the new Google
    tracking scheme is, Seamonkey likely doesn't support it
    in an outright manner.

    The Firefox, on your Win10 setup, that should continue
    to get updated. Should be good until the end of 2025.
    The Firefox version right now, is up around 135 or so.
    It would be 115ESR for Windows 7.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Mar 3 13:01:35 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 3/3/2025 2:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Well I checked and FF is up to date so do you recommend doing nothing
    and just ignore the Seamonkey message? Everything seems to be working
    fine on this end.

    I went ahead and ordered a 1TB Patriot Key from the links you gave. I
    also completed this months mrimgs with no problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert


    I would ignore the update message for now, and perhaps 2.53.21
    will be better.

    I just noticed that .20 wasn't working as well here as I
    would have liked and I don't know what the problem is. There
    are the usual complaints by sites that have a Google plugin
    to check the browser version. And whatever the new Google
    tracking scheme is, Seamonkey likely doesn't support it
    in an outright manner.

    The Firefox, on your Win10 setup, that should continue
    to get updated. Should be good until the end of 2025.
    The Firefox version right now, is up around 135 or so.
    It would be 115ESR for Windows 7.

    Paul


    Ok,.. sounds good. We can do the updating on V2.53.21 as you
    say.

    I'll open up the 780 and update FF and then the 8500.


    Thanks,
    Robert




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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Mar 3 17:32:05 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 3/3/2025 2:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Well I checked and FF is up to date so do you recommend doing nothing
    and just ignore the Seamonkey message? Everything seems to be working
    fine on this end.

    I went ahead and ordered a 1TB Patriot Key from the links you gave. I
    also completed this months mrimgs with no problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert


    I would ignore the update message for now, and perhaps 2.53.21
    will be better.

    I just noticed that .20 wasn't working as well here as I
    would have liked and I don't know what the problem is. There
    are the usual complaints by sites that have a Google plugin
    to check the browser version. And whatever the new Google
    tracking scheme is, Seamonkey likely doesn't support it
    in an outright manner.

    The Firefox, on your Win10 setup, that should continue
    to get updated. Should be good until the end of 2025.
    The Firefox version right now, is up around 135 or so.
    It would be 115ESR for Windows 7.

    Paul



    I couldn't login to my User Accounton Win 10 on the 780 and had to
    change my password on my Admin Account and then it went through setup.
    I successfully updated FF in the Admin Account and then had to restart
    it. Then I went back to the User Account to get it working but I
    couldn't get it to work so I deleted it and created another with the
    same name. It had to completely setup as well,.. I didn't stop to think
    because I lost all my bookmarks. So will have to import them again. I
    should of just created another account.

    Still, I don't understand why it didn't accept the password initially
    and why I had to change the Admin Account password? weird,..

    Now I'm leery to do anything to the 8500,... if the same thing happens
    I'll just create a new account and not delete anything.


    Robert



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Mar 4 00:28:46 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 3/3/2025 2:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Well I checked and FF is up to date so do you recommend doing nothing
    and just ignore the Seamonkey message? Everything seems to be working
    fine on this end.

    I went ahead and ordered a 1TB Patriot Key from the links you gave. I
    also completed this months mrimgs with no problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert


    I would ignore the update message for now, and perhaps 2.53.21
    will be better.

    I just noticed that .20 wasn't working as well here as I
    would have liked and I don't know what the problem is. There
    are the usual complaints by sites that have a Google plugin
    to check the browser version. And whatever the new Google
    tracking scheme is, Seamonkey likely doesn't support it
    in an outright manner.

    The Firefox, on your Win10 setup, that should continue
    to get updated. Should be good until the end of 2025.
    The Firefox version right now, is up around 135 or so.
    It would be 115ESR for Windows 7.

    Paul



    I managed to import my bookmarks back to Win10 on the 780.
    However there's no Homepage icon? I want to make about:blank
    as my homepage so how do I do that in Win10 ?

    Next I'll update the 8500 Win10 and hope nothing goes wrong.
    I'll do the Admin Account and User Account like I did on the
    780 to be thorough.

    Thanks,
    Robert


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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Mar 4 02:14:04 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 3/3/2025 2:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Well I checked and FF is up to date so do you recommend doing nothing
    and just ignore the Seamonkey message? Everything seems to be working
    fine on this end.

    I went ahead and ordered a 1TB Patriot Key from the links you gave. I
    also completed this months mrimgs with no problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert


    I would ignore the update message for now, and perhaps 2.53.21
    will be better.

    I just noticed that .20 wasn't working as well here as I
    would have liked and I don't know what the problem is. There
    are the usual complaints by sites that have a Google plugin
    to check the browser version. And whatever the new Google
    tracking scheme is, Seamonkey likely doesn't support it
    in an outright manner.

    The Firefox, on your Win10 setup, that should continue
    to get updated. Should be good until the end of 2025.
    The Firefox version right now, is up around 135 or so.
    It would be 115ESR for Windows 7.

    Paul


    I successfully updated FF on the 8500 Win 10 Admin Account
    and the User Account. Then updated the A/V suite and running
    scans on the User Account side.

    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Mar 4 23:19:01 2025
    On Tue, 3/4/2025 3:28 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 3/3/2025 2:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Well I checked and FF is up to date so do you recommend doing nothing
    and just ignore the Seamonkey message? Everything seems to be working
    fine on this end.

    I went ahead and ordered a 1TB Patriot Key from the links you gave. I
    also completed this months mrimgs with no problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert


    I would ignore the update message for now, and perhaps 2.53.21
    will be better.

    I just noticed that .20 wasn't working as well here as I
    would have liked and I don't know what the problem is. There
    are the usual complaints by sites that have a Google plugin
    to check the browser version. And whatever the new Google
    tracking scheme is, Seamonkey likely doesn't support it
    in an outright manner.

    The Firefox, on your Win10 setup, that should continue
    to get updated. Should be good until the end of 2025.
    The Firefox version right now, is up around 135 or so.
    It would be 115ESR for Windows 7.

        Paul



    I managed to import my bookmarks back to Win10 on the 780.
    However there's no Homepage icon? I want to make about:blank
    as my homepage so how do I do that in Win10 ?

    Next I'll update the 8500 Win10 and hope nothing goes wrong.
    I'll do the Admin Account and User Account like I did on the
    780 to be thorough.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    browser.startup.homepage about:blank

    startup.homepage_override_url ignore <=== it is supposed to be a URL, but this stops it from overriding

    *******

    There are also entries such as

    browser.startup.homepage-override.buildID 20250127191809 browser.startup.homepage_override.mstone 128.7.0 (browser was 128.7.0ESR when this was checked)
    doh-rollout.home-region CA

    which appear to be set by the update process, and may be
    attempts to override the normal startup, after the software
    is updated.

    *******

    So far, nothing has leaked through.

    Paul


    Mine still seems to be using about:blank .

    Paul

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  • From Rob in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Mar 5 12:00:00 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/4/2025 3:28 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 3/3/2025 2:50 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Well I checked and FF is up to date so do you recommend doing nothing
    and just ignore the Seamonkey message? Everything seems to be working
    fine on this end.

    I went ahead and ordered a 1TB Patriot Key from the links you gave. I
    also completed this months mrimgs with no problems.

    Thanks,
    Robert


    I would ignore the update message for now, and perhaps 2.53.21
    will be better.

    I just noticed that .20 wasn't working as well here as I
    would have liked and I don't know what the problem is. There
    are the usual complaints by sites that have a Google plugin
    to check the browser version. And whatever the new Google
    tracking scheme is, Seamonkey likely doesn't support it
    in an outright manner.

    The Firefox, on your Win10 setup, that should continue
    to get updated. Should be good until the end of 2025.
    The Firefox version right now, is up around 135 or so.
    It would be 115ESR for Windows 7.

        Paul



    I managed to import my bookmarks back to Win10 on the 780.
    However there's no Homepage icon? I want to make about:blank
    as my homepage so how do I do that in Win10 ?

    Next I'll update the 8500 Win10 and hope nothing goes wrong.
    I'll do the Admin Account and User Account like I did on the
    780 to be thorough.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    browser.startup.homepage about:blank

    startup.homepage_override_url ignore <=== it is supposed to be a URL, but this stops it from overriding

    *******

    There are also entries such as

    browser.startup.homepage-override.buildID 20250127191809 browser.startup.homepage_override.mstone 128.7.0 (browser was 128.7.0ESR when this was checked)
    doh-rollout.home-region CA

    which appear to be set by the update process, and may be
    attempts to override the normal startup, after the software
    is updated.

    *******

    So far, nothing has leaked through.

    Paul


    Mine still seems to be using about:blank .

    Paul



    I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
    search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between
    homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same
    thing. So what am I doing wrong?


    browser.startup.homepage about:blank

    startup.homepage_override_url ignore


    Thanks,
    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Rob in CA on Thu Mar 6 01:09:50 2025
    On Wed, 3/5/2025 3:00 PM, Rob in CA wrote:

    I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
    search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same thing. So what am I doing wrong?


    browser.startup.homepage           about:blank

    startup.homepage_override_url      ignore


    Thanks,
    Robert

    These are entries in the Configuration Editor.

    We've been discussing that, off and on. It has the
    scary reminder just before you open it.

    http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config

    And the lines are stored, when the browser is not
    running, in the Prefs.js file . In the UserAgent
    discussion, I showed an example of what a new entry
    in the Prefs.js would look like.

    That's the kind of place the two items above will go.
    We're talking about Firefox, then the Firefox Configuration Editor
    is where you would be modifying the values that are there by default.

    Browser startup homepage, is a STRING which is a URL. And
    we're using "about:blank", for a "clean look" when the browser starts.

    The "homepage_override_url" is being set to a value that won't load,
    so you can tell when that override is being used by the browser.

    Paul

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  • From Rob in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Mar 6 03:25:04 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/5/2025 3:00 PM, Rob in CA wrote:

    I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
    search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between
    homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same
    thing. So what am I doing wrong?


    browser.startup.homepage           about:blank

    startup.homepage_override_url      ignore


    Thanks,
    Robert

    These are entries in the Configuration Editor.

    We've been discussing that, off and on. It has the
    scary reminder just before you open it.

    http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config

    And the lines are stored, when the browser is not
    running, in the Prefs.js file . In the UserAgent
    discussion, I showed an example of what a new entry
    in the Prefs.js would look like.

    That's the kind of place the two items above will go.
    We're talking about Firefox, then the Firefox Configuration Editor
    is where you would be modifying the values that are there by default.

    Browser startup homepage, is a STRING which is a URL. And
    we're using "about:blank", for a "clean look" when the browser starts.

    The "homepage_override_url" is being set to a value that won't load,
    so you can tell when that override is being used by the browser.

    Paul



    I’m trying to understand but I have memory problems of what
    we talked about previously.,..

    I hate to sound stupid, but I do not understand what I’m supposed
    to do? I tried copy/pasting the first command on the URL line and
    like I said it turned into search for about:blank. Then I tried entering about:blank and then the second command but that turned into a search
    also?

    So what am I doing wrong? What do I type in the URL? Why does it keep
    turning into a search?

    Thanks,
    Robert






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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Mar 6 04:31:29 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/5/2025 3:00 PM, Rob in CA wrote:

    I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
    search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between
    homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same
    thing. So what am I doing wrong?


    browser.startup.homepage           about:blank

    startup.homepage_override_url      ignore


    Thanks,
    Robert

    These are entries in the Configuration Editor.

    We've been discussing that, off and on. It has the
    scary reminder just before you open it.

    http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config

    And the lines are stored, when the browser is not
    running, in the Prefs.js file . In the UserAgent
    discussion, I showed an example of what a new entry
    in the Prefs.js would look like.

    That's the kind of place the two items above will go.
    We're talking about Firefox, then the Firefox Configuration Editor
    is where you would be modifying the values that are there by default.

    Browser startup homepage, is a STRING which is a URL. And
    we're using "about:blank", for a "clean look" when the browser starts.

    The "homepage_override_url" is being set to a value that won't load,
    so you can tell when that override is being used by the browser.

    Paul


    Houston, we have a problem,....

    never mind about the about:blank,....

    When I was on the 8500 there was a round gear
    like icon on the lower right which said the computer
    was out of date. I should of asked you about it first.
    Well anyways I clicked it and it downloaded updates
    and then had to restart but when it came back it had this:

    https://postimg.cc/yW3mTdys


    So I've lost my Win10 OS on the 8500. I do have one
    Win10 mrimg that I can use to try and restore it. I
    didn't need this to happen.

    Is there anything I should do before I try and restore it?

    Thanks,
    Robert



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 7 01:55:27 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/5/2025 3:00 PM, Rob in CA wrote:

    I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
    search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between
    homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same
    thing. So what am I doing wrong?


    browser.startup.homepage           about:blank

    startup.homepage_override_url      ignore


    Thanks,
    Robert

    These are entries in the Configuration Editor.

    We've been discussing that, off and on. It has the
    scary reminder just before you open it.

    http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config

    And the lines are stored, when the browser is not
    running, in the Prefs.js file . In the UserAgent
    discussion, I showed an example of what a new entry
    in the Prefs.js would look like.

    That's the kind of place the two items above will go.
    We're talking about Firefox, then the Firefox Configuration Editor
    is where you would be modifying the values that are there by default.

    Browser startup homepage, is a STRING which is a URL. And
    we're using "about:blank", for a "clean look" when the browser starts.

    The "homepage_override_url" is being set to a value that won't load,
    so you can tell when that override is being used by the browser.

    Paul


    Since there's no OS on the 8500 Win10 I assume
    I need to use the Media Creation Tool again to
    download Win 10? I don't remember the instructions
    on how to use it or the replies though,.. all I remember
    is that I need to remove the disk after loading otherwise
    it starts all over like it did with me.

    Thoughts/suggestions,
    Robert



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 7 15:54:52 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/5/2025 3:00 PM, Rob in CA wrote:

    I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
    search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between
    homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same
    thing. So what am I doing wrong?


    browser.startup.homepage           about:blank

    startup.homepage_override_url      ignore


    Thanks,
    Robert

    These are entries in the Configuration Editor.

    We've been discussing that, off and on. It has the
    scary reminder just before you open it.

    http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config

    And the lines are stored, when the browser is not
    running, in the Prefs.js file . In the UserAgent
    discussion, I showed an example of what a new entry
    in the Prefs.js would look like.

    That's the kind of place the two items above will go.
    We're talking about Firefox, then the Firefox Configuration Editor
    is where you would be modifying the values that are there by default.

    Browser startup homepage, is a STRING which is a URL. And
    we're using "about:blank", for a "clean look" when the browser starts.

    The "homepage_override_url" is being set to a value that won't load,
    so you can tell when that override is being used by the browser.

    Paul




    I went back to our Google posts and found your instructions:

    Clean install of Win 10

    I've tried to think this through,....while re-reading instructions
    create mrimg for 8500 Win10 hd before erasing it, <=== good idea we
    already did this
    #2 disconnect the Win 7 external hd ( not needed in this case)
    #4 disconnect Ethernet (why?)
    remove external hd (should I remove Win 7 HD?)
    restart macrium and erase hd following your instructions with command
    prompt <=== Yes, you can select it, then do "clean" (should I erase the
    HD using macirium/command prompt) ?
    remove macrium Rescue CD and replace with 22H2 DVD+DRL and leave tray open, close macrium and reboot

    #3 - I choose Legacy Bios, correct? (boot order has been corrected)Am I
    booting to the BIOS at this point, F2 ?
    How do I enable Legacy vs UEFI and how do I enable Secure Boot? <=== use
    the BIOS mode as currently set
    you want W7 and W10 disks to boot the same way
    #5 - were not booting from a flash drive but a DVD, I assume the tray
    will close
    automatically at this point and load 22H2?
    #6 - 64 bit installation <=== fixed by the DVD you made
    #9 - skip product key
    #10 - select Win 10 Pro edition to install <=== Yes
    #14 - I'm unclear what to do here,... since the hd drive will be erased
    it shouldn't have
    any partitions. Do I just click on the drive letter it gives me? <===
    The big partition is C:
    #23 - > go to step 25
    #25 - bogus phone number, <=== Mainly, you want offline account in the
    left corner
    click lower left offline account <=== You don't need to tease the thing.
    do I enter bogus phone number again? <=== No, keep looking for the
    Limited Experience option
    Windows 10 Enterprise - click lower left; Domain join instead <===
    You're doing Pro, not Enterprise.
    click lower left - Limited Experience
    enter User name - Administrator's name? <=== Yes, this will be your administrator
    enter password -
    confirm password
    security questions
    privacy settings - I usually turn all of these off except inking & typing
    skip forums
    skip Cortana <=== Yes, generally skip all the silly stuff.

    #27 - Network Discovery - no <=== Might be used for File Sharing or
    Printing issues
    <=== Your network is a Private one.
    #28 - Welcome to Windows -
    #29 - set time zone/date and time <=== Set time zone at least. Eyeball
    time correctness.
    #30 - install drivers e.g. FF, SeaMonkey, A/V Suite, bookmarks, My
    Documents <=== It will do a lot of drivers for you ( wouldn't we just
    install macrium and run the mrimg to do all of this?)

    What do you think?

    Robert


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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Mar 8 14:46:30 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/5/2025 3:00 PM, Rob in CA wrote:

    I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
    search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between
    homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same
    thing. So what am I doing wrong?


    browser.startup.homepage           about:blank

    startup.homepage_override_url      ignore


    Thanks,
    Robert

    These are entries in the Configuration Editor.

    We've been discussing that, off and on. It has the
    scary reminder just before you open it.

    http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config

    And the lines are stored, when the browser is not
    running, in the Prefs.js file . In the UserAgent
    discussion, I showed an example of what a new entry
    in the Prefs.js would look like.

    That's the kind of place the two items above will go.
    We're talking about Firefox, then the Firefox Configuration Editor
    is where you would be modifying the values that are there by default.

    Browser startup homepage, is a STRING which is a URL. And
    we're using "about:blank", for a "clean look" when the browser starts.

    The "homepage_override_url" is being set to a value that won't load,
    so you can tell when that override is being used by the browser.

    Paul



    After thinking about it,.. couldn't I just use the
    8500 Rescue CD and restore it using the mrimg ?

    Also when I clicked the
    paganini.bofh.team
    m.p.w general - it gave me the error message.

    https://postimg.cc/tsNMf5tL

    Thanks,
    Robert


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Mar 11 21:04:19 2025
    On Sat, 3/8/2025 5:46 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/5/2025 3:00 PM, Rob in CA wrote:

    I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
    search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between
    homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same
    thing. So what am I doing wrong?


    browser.startup.homepage           about:blank

    startup.homepage_override_url      ignore


    Thanks,
    Robert

    These are entries in the Configuration Editor.

    We've been discussing that, off and on. It has the
    scary reminder just before you open it.

        http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config

    And the lines are stored, when the browser is not
    running, in the Prefs.js file . In the UserAgent
    discussion, I showed an example of what a new entry
    in the Prefs.js would look like.

    That's the kind of place the two items above will go.
    We're talking about Firefox, then the Firefox Configuration Editor
    is where you would be modifying the values that are there by default.

    Browser startup homepage, is a STRING which is a URL. And
    we're using "about:blank", for a "clean look" when the browser starts.

    The "homepage_override_url" is being set to a value that won't load,
    so you can tell when that override is being used by the browser.

        Paul



    After thinking about it,.. couldn't I just use the
    8500 Rescue CD and restore it using the mrimg ?

    Also when I clicked the
    paganini.bofh.team
    m.p.w general  - it gave me the error message.

    https://postimg.cc/tsNMf5tL

    Thanks,
    Robert



    The SMStore on Paganini has been fixed. We reported it a couple
    days ago. It was preventing posting.

    Regarding your OS problem, the very first step would be determining
    what indicator said you had updates. I hope this was the Microsoft
    reboot indicator

    Round circle with arrow heads, a tinge of red color...

    That means a Windows Update is coming in.

    *******

    A "Missing OS" message comes from the MBR (Sector 0 on the disk drive).
    That is the bootstrap code that runs on Legacy BIOS machines, as
    part of booting.

    If there was an Active Partition on the disk drive, that would be
    what the MBR assembler code searches for. It tries to find the
    Active Partition.

    If you were on a UEFI computer, the boot on that is different. The
    UEFI in the BIOS, is a bit more intelligent, and it looks for certain
    storage locations for evidence of UEFI-boot operating systems. I presume the XPS 8500 does not do that. You know your machine better than I do.

    It could be, if the boot menu was being updated, and the boot menu
    sees some second disk drive, the booting process could be pointed to
    the wrong disk drive.

    *******

    Remember that your Macrium Rescue CD, has an interesting function. It has
    a "Boot Repair" menu item.

    It will ask you a couple questions. It will guess at which partition is which.

    It will ask you to confirm which C: partition(s) are the ones you want
    included in the menu.

    A second question, will be to confirm which is the Active partition.
    That question is harder to answer. On a setup I was working with the other
    day, the setup looked like this.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/KzhXLRYB/Win10-legacy-boot-Active-Partition.gif

    But nevertheless, you the computer operator, know the two partitions
    you want Macrium to use, are on that same single hard drive. It it
    pretty hard to go wrong.

    It's unlikely something Windows did, erased a partition. When you use
    the Macrium CD *Backup menu*, it will show you a view of the disk drive,
    before you attempt a Boot Repair from the pull down menu. Seeing that
    can help you determine how to answer when using the Boot Repair later.

    A "Missing OS" message could even come from a brand new disk
    you've been playing with on the computer, and you have selected
    the wrong drive in the popup boot :-) I've had that happen before.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Mar 12 06:12:13 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 3/8/2025 5:46 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/5/2025 3:00 PM, Rob in CA wrote:

    I tried entering the first command in the URL but it changed it to a
    search for about:blank . I still don’t know how many spaces between
    homepage and about:blank. I gave it 3 then 5 but it still does the same >>>> thing. So what am I doing wrong?


    browser.startup.homepage           about:blank

    startup.homepage_override_url      ignore


    Thanks,
    Robert

    These are entries in the Configuration Editor.

    We've been discussing that, off and on. It has the
    scary reminder just before you open it.

        http://kb.mozillazine.org/About:config

    And the lines are stored, when the browser is not
    running, in the Prefs.js file . In the UserAgent
    discussion, I showed an example of what a new entry
    in the Prefs.js would look like.

    That's the kind of place the two items above will go.
    We're talking about Firefox, then the Firefox Configuration Editor
    is where you would be modifying the values that are there by default.

    Browser startup homepage, is a STRING which is a URL. And
    we're using "about:blank", for a "clean look" when the browser starts.

    The "homepage_override_url" is being set to a value that won't load,
    so you can tell when that override is being used by the browser.

        Paul



    After thinking about it,.. couldn't I just use the
    8500 Rescue CD and restore it using the mrimg ?

    Also when I clicked the
    paganini.bofh.team
    m.p.w general  - it gave me the error message.

    https://postimg.cc/tsNMf5tL

    Thanks,
    Robert



    The SMStore on Paganini has been fixed. We reported it a couple
    days ago. It was preventing posting.

    Regarding your OS problem, the very first step would be determining
    what indicator said you had updates. I hope this was the Microsoft
    reboot indicator

    Round circle with arrow heads, a tinge of red color...

    That means a Windows Update is coming in.

    *******

    A "Missing OS" message comes from the MBR (Sector 0 on the disk drive).
    That is the bootstrap code that runs on Legacy BIOS machines, as
    part of booting.

    If there was an Active Partition on the disk drive, that would be
    what the MBR assembler code searches for. It tries to find the
    Active Partition.

    If you were on a UEFI computer, the boot on that is different. The
    UEFI in the BIOS, is a bit more intelligent, and it looks for certain
    storage locations for evidence of UEFI-boot operating systems. I presume the XPS 8500 does not do that. You know your machine better than I do.

    It could be, if the boot menu was being updated, and the boot menu
    sees some second disk drive, the booting process could be pointed to
    the wrong disk drive.

    *******

    Remember that your Macrium Rescue CD, has an interesting function. It has
    a "Boot Repair" menu item.

    It will ask you a couple questions. It will guess at which partition is which.

    It will ask you to confirm which C: partition(s) are the ones you want included in the menu.

    A second question, will be to confirm which is the Active partition.
    That question is harder to answer. On a setup I was working with the other day, the setup looked like this.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/KzhXLRYB/Win10-legacy-boot-Active-Partition.gif

    But nevertheless, you the computer operator, know the two partitions
    you want Macrium to use, are on that same single hard drive. It it
    pretty hard to go wrong.

    It's unlikely something Windows did, erased a partition. When you use
    the Macrium CD *Backup menu*, it will show you a view of the disk drive, before you attempt a Boot Repair from the pull down menu. Seeing that
    can help you determine how to answer when using the Boot Repair later.

    A "Missing OS" message could even come from a brand new disk
    you've been playing with on the computer, and you have selected
    the wrong drive in the popup boot :-) I've had that happen before.

    Paul

    You won’t believe it, but I switched over to Win10 on the 8500 and
    loaded the Rescue CD just in case,.. well as soon as it started it
    started to load updates and then finished by cleaning and it came up
    as normal ! Whew!!!!!!!!!!

    https://postimg.cc/t7DQRCLN

    I checked and apparently I clicked the notifications icon on the lower
    right.

    Thanks,
    Robert




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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Mar 13 01:26:17 2025
    On Wed, 3/12/2025 9:12 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    You won’t believe it, but I switched over to Win10 on the 8500 and
    loaded the Rescue CD just in case,.. well as soon as it started it started to load updates and then finished by cleaning and it came up
    as normal ! Whew!!!!!!!!!!

    https://postimg.cc/t7DQRCLN

    I checked and apparently I clicked the notifications icon on the lower right.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You must have unplugged some drive, or made some
    change to a boot order, and the item-that-was-not-an-OS
    stopped trying to boot :-)

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Mar 13 20:21:26 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/12/2025 9:12 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    You won’t believe it, but I switched over to Win10 on the 8500 and
    loaded the Rescue CD just in case,.. well as soon as it started it started to load updates and then finished by cleaning and it came up
    as normal ! Whew!!!!!!!!!!

    https://postimg.cc/t7DQRCLN

    I checked and apparently I clicked the notifications icon on the lower right.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You must have unplugged some drive, or made some
    change to a boot order, and the item-that-was-not-an-OS
    stopped trying to boot :-)

    Paul

    I don't remember doing anything,.. but you
    know my history better than anyone.


    I thought since the 8500 Win 10 updated and came back
    normally that it might not be a bad idea to create a mrimg.
    So that's what I did but while switching cables I noticed
    a burn mark on the inside lid. The computer seems OK
    and there's no sign of a burnout but that's weird.

    I remember it got very loud once humming and I thought it
    was going to explode and maybe that's what happened?

    https://postimg.cc/MnFfcq2N

    https://postimg.cc/D4nSVzLJ

    https://postimg.cc/Fkp7hQVP

    p.s. I tried to send the message through paganini but I got this
    error msg. This has happened more than once.

    https://postimg.cc/ZBZNmjh5

    https://postimg.cc/nXy7RpR7


    Robert


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Mar 13 23:37:52 2025
    On Thu, 3/13/2025 11:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/12/2025 9:12 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    You won’t believe it, but I switched over to Win10 on the 8500 and
    loaded the Rescue CD just in case,.. well as soon as it started it started to load updates and then finished by cleaning and it came up
    as normal ! Whew!!!!!!!!!!

    https://postimg.cc/t7DQRCLN

    I checked and apparently I clicked the notifications icon on the lower right.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You must have unplugged some drive, or made some
    change to a boot order, and the item-that-was-not-an-OS
    stopped trying to boot :-)

        Paul

    I don't remember doing anything,.. but you
    know my history  better than anyone.


    I thought since the 8500 Win 10 updated and came back
    normally that it might not be a bad idea to create a mrimg.
    So that's what I did but while switching cables I noticed
    a burn mark on the inside lid. The computer seems OK
    and there's no sign of a burnout but that's weird.

    I remember it got very loud once humming and I thought it
    was going to explode and maybe that's what happened?

    https://postimg.cc/MnFfcq2N

    https://postimg.cc/D4nSVzLJ

    https://postimg.cc/Fkp7hQVP

    p.s. I tried to send the message through paganini but I got this
    error msg. This has happened more than once.

    https://postimg.cc/ZBZNmjh5

    https://postimg.cc/nXy7RpR7


    Robert

    Check your Daylight Saving Time to see if the hour is correct.

    NNTP (USENET) servers, can be set to reject attempts to modify
    the date. For example, if you set the date on a computer, well
    into the future, a posting can be permanently at the head end of
    a group. Which is what the attacker seeks to do. The server then,
    compares the date of the posting computer, to the server date
    (perhaps converted to UTC in each case, for comparison). On intolerant
    servers (setting is too tight), only a max of a one hour difference
    is allowed. Check your date and time, verify DST or whatever
    is giving a correct local time.

    *******

    See if the burn mark, lines up with the main fan.

    It's possible the fan jammed and stopped spinning. The Dell with
    the five wire fan, the machine can send quite a bit of power
    to the fan, when "vacuum cleaner speed" is called for. The
    machine moderates the spinning of the fan, according to temperature.

    When the machine first starts up, the BIOS is not booted, the
    fan spools up to max speed. As long as the BIOS starts in a short
    time, the fan spins down to a more normal speed. The speed is "Max"
    until the BIOS programs the correct value -- this is on purpose.

    You can clean the blade of the fan, with a paper towel and
    a bit of isopropyl alcohol, or even just water if you want.
    It depends on what kind of crud lands on the fan blades, as
    to what kind of fluid cleaner works best. Something like
    acetone might attack the plastic blade, and you don't
    want to imbalance the fan.

    I few computer fans have metal blades, but that isn't too common.

    If the bearing is a sleeve bearing, those fit rather loosely,
    and sometimes the fan will rattle on its bearing instead of
    spinning smoothly. The fan will spin slower than normal.
    The noise will draw your attention to the problem.
    For the sleeve bearing fan then, it's time to look for a
    new one.

    The Dell fans with the five wire interface, aren't too common.
    I haven't looked for one of those for at least ten years,
    and I have no idea how hard they are to purchase a replacement.

    A "typical" high power fan, lasts for around 50,000 hours.
    The best of the most recent fans (not a good replacement for
    your fan), last for 150,000 hours (which is unusual as a value).
    Bearing types are sleeve (cheap), ball bearing (a bit noisy)
    and FDB (Fluid Dynamic Bearing, frictionless) or SSO.

    It is hard to say, whether the "vacuum cleaner mode" of the
    Dell main fan, is really necessary. The fan normally, runs
    a lot lower than max, and it is better for the fan to run in
    the middle of its range, than to be dawdling at the low end
    of the range.

    In any case, when cleaning the fan, do not tug on the bearing
    while cleaning the blades. I ruined a CPU cooler fan once, by
    being a bit too energetic when cleaning the blade.

    Fans are even sensitive to being dropped. If you order fans
    by post, and you have just opened the box and a fan falls
    on the table, a small drop like that can ruin the bearing
    (it makes the fan noisier than it should be, but it still spins).
    For best results then, the item should be in bubble wrap, to
    protect it.

    1) Give the blade a clean.
    2) Check for free play in the blade. Is
    the blade loose on the bearing, wobbles a bit ?
    It may need to be replaced.

    Fans have one orientation they don't like. I had an Antec
    here which was blowing air upwards in the computer case, and
    that is hard on the bearing. Some fans have a coil spring to
    counter that gravity loading a bit, and such a fan may hold up
    better. In the opposite direction, blowing downward, the fan
    is unlikely to feel stress in that orientation.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 14 01:29:19 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 3/13/2025 11:21 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/12/2025 9:12 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    You won’t believe it, but I switched over to Win10 on the 8500 and
    loaded the Rescue CD just in case,.. well as soon as it started it started to load updates and then finished by cleaning and it came up
    as normal ! Whew!!!!!!!!!!

    https://postimg.cc/t7DQRCLN

    I checked and apparently I clicked the notifications icon on the lower right.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You must have unplugged some drive, or made some
    change to a boot order, and the item-that-was-not-an-OS
    stopped trying to boot :-)

        Paul

    I don't remember doing anything,.. but you
    know my history  better than anyone.


    I thought since the 8500 Win 10 updated and came back
    normally that it might not be a bad idea to create a mrimg.
    So that's what I did but while switching cables I noticed
    a burn mark on the inside lid. The computer seems OK
    and there's no sign of a burnout but that's weird.

    I remember it got very loud once humming and I thought it
    was going to explode and maybe that's what happened?

    https://postimg.cc/MnFfcq2N

    https://postimg.cc/D4nSVzLJ

    https://postimg.cc/Fkp7hQVP

    p.s. I tried to send the message through paganini but I got this
    error msg. This has happened more than once.

    https://postimg.cc/ZBZNmjh5

    https://postimg.cc/nXy7RpR7


    Robert

    Check your Daylight Saving Time to see if the hour is correct.

    NNTP (USENET) servers, can be set to reject attempts to modify
    the date. For example, if you set the date on a computer, well
    into the future, a posting can be permanently at the head end of
    a group. Which is what the attacker seeks to do. The server then,
    compares the date of the posting computer, to the server date
    (perhaps converted to UTC in each case, for comparison). On intolerant servers (setting is too tight), only a max of a one hour difference
    is allowed. Check your date and time, verify DST or whatever
    is giving a correct local time.

    *******

    See if the burn mark, lines up with the main fan.

    It's possible the fan jammed and stopped spinning. The Dell with
    the five wire fan, the machine can send quite a bit of power
    to the fan, when "vacuum cleaner speed" is called for. The
    machine moderates the spinning of the fan, according to temperature.

    When the machine first starts up, the BIOS is not booted, the
    fan spools up to max speed. As long as the BIOS starts in a short
    time, the fan spins down to a more normal speed. The speed is "Max"
    until the BIOS programs the correct value -- this is on purpose.

    You can clean the blade of the fan, with a paper towel and
    a bit of isopropyl alcohol, or even just water if you want.
    It depends on what kind of crud lands on the fan blades, as
    to what kind of fluid cleaner works best. Something like
    acetone might attack the plastic blade, and you don't
    want to imbalance the fan.

    I few computer fans have metal blades, but that isn't too common.

    If the bearing is a sleeve bearing, those fit rather loosely,
    and sometimes the fan will rattle on its bearing instead of
    spinning smoothly. The fan will spin slower than normal.
    The noise will draw your attention to the problem.
    For the sleeve bearing fan then, it's time to look for a
    new one.

    The Dell fans with the five wire interface, aren't too common.
    I haven't looked for one of those for at least ten years,
    and I have no idea how hard they are to purchase a replacement.

    A "typical" high power fan, lasts for around 50,000 hours.
    The best of the most recent fans (not a good replacement for
    your fan), last for 150,000 hours (which is unusual as a value).
    Bearing types are sleeve (cheap), ball bearing (a bit noisy)
    and FDB (Fluid Dynamic Bearing, frictionless) or SSO.

    It is hard to say, whether the "vacuum cleaner mode" of the
    Dell main fan, is really necessary. The fan normally, runs
    a lot lower than max, and it is better for the fan to run in
    the middle of its range, than to be dawdling at the low end
    of the range.

    In any case, when cleaning the fan, do not tug on the bearing
    while cleaning the blades. I ruined a CPU cooler fan once, by
    being a bit too energetic when cleaning the blade.

    Fans are even sensitive to being dropped. If you order fans
    by post, and you have just opened the box and a fan falls
    on the table, a small drop like that can ruin the bearing
    (it makes the fan noisier than it should be, but it still spins).
    For best results then, the item should be in bubble wrap, to
    protect it.

    1) Give the blade a clean.
    2) Check for free play in the blade. Is
    the blade loose on the bearing, wobbles a bit ?
    It may need to be replaced.

    Fans have one orientation they don't like. I had an Antec
    here which was blowing air upwards in the computer case, and
    that is hard on the bearing. Some fans have a coil spring to
    counter that gravity loading a bit, and such a fan may hold up
    better. In the opposite direction, blowing downward, the fan
    is unlikely to feel stress in that orientation.

    Paul





    I checked my time and was off, I thought the computer automatically
    adjusted the time?

    I thought I had cleaned the fan blades before but obviously not. I'll use
    some simple green and the mini-vac and give it a good clean.

    So I can't get a replacement fan for it? Even if it doesn't need it I'd
    like to get one just in case. The computer is silent when running,..
    very quiet,. You don't hear a thing. So I don't think there's anything
    wrong with the fan or I'd hear it.

    In passing, I decided to also make a 780 Win10 mrimg but after I
    switched cables and powered it up I got this:

    https://postimg.cc/SXS0PTSG

    I elected to run the onboard diagnosistics and ran the complete
    memory tests and it came up normally afterwards and I ran the
    mrimg.

    https://postimg.cc/fk0P8n7N

    https://postimg.cc/3dXcHXbf

    https://postimg.cc/hJ5C0pfv

    Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of
    other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
    boot order? etc.

    Thanks,
    Robert


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Mar 14 13:53:19 2025
    On Fri, 3/14/2025 4:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of
    other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
    boot order? etc.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You can browse through the settings, and make note of
    the things you have changed.

    a few machines, have the ability to "record a profile",
    which can be stored on a USB stick. But for many others,
    corrections to the settings are done manually, after
    the battery is changed.

    The X79 here, it stored the CMOS settings profile
    in the BIOS chip. If I change the battery on that machine,
    I do a "Load Profile #1" in the BIOS screen, and all the
    settings come back (custom memory timing settings).

    Custom memory settings are only required, when the
    machine makes poor choices. Most of the time (like on
    a Dell), the settings are conservative and "standard"
    settings should work just fine. It took me a week
    of testing, for the custom settings. That's why they
    are recorded in a Profile, so I won't lose them :-)

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 14 18:16:28 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 3/14/2025 4:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of
    other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
    boot order? etc.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You can browse through the settings, and make note of
    the things you have changed.

    a few machines, have the ability to "record a profile",
    which can be stored on a USB stick. But for many others,
    corrections to the settings are done manually, after
    the battery is changed.

    The X79 here, it stored the CMOS settings profile
    in the BIOS chip. If I change the battery on that machine,
    I do a "Load Profile #1" in the BIOS screen, and all the
    settings come back (custom memory timing settings).

    Custom memory settings are only required, when the
    machine makes poor choices. Most of the time (like on
    a Dell), the settings are conservative and "standard"
    settings should work just fine. It took me a week
    of testing, for the custom settings. That's why they
    are recorded in a Profile, so I won't lose them :-)

    Paul



    So do you advise I change the battery? I do have a spare
    CR2032 battery.

    I wouldn't know where to start as far as settings until I
    lost them then I may need your help. Maybe export all my
    bookmarks? However were talking about the 780 so I
    would still have the 8500 operational.

    I want to wait until my 1TB Patriot arrives so I can transfer
    my bookmarks to it. Hmmmmm everything else of importance
    is on the mrimgs but changing the battery doesn't effect data.
    Bios,. I would worry about my boot order being changed
    but why would it do that? In any case it would go back to the
    default. Maybe I would loose my about:blank homepage?

    I opened up the 8500 and decided to removed the fan
    to clean it. I first used the mini-vac to remove all the
    dust then I used q-tips and simple green and cleaned
    each fan blade and the housing.

    before

    https://postimg.cc/YLM9RVJy

    after

    https://postimg.cc/rKpWL0PZ

    As you can see from the pictures I had put it in backwards
    (arrow and sticker in the middle) so I opened it up again
    and turned it around with the arrow pointing out.

    It's allot cleaner and the computer is humming along happy
    and dead silent.

    Thanks,
    Robert








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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Mar 15 04:48:43 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 3/14/2025 4:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of
    other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
    boot order? etc.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You can browse through the settings, and make note of
    the things you have changed.

    a few machines, have the ability to "record a profile",
    which can be stored on a USB stick. But for many others,
    corrections to the settings are done manually, after
    the battery is changed.

    The X79 here, it stored the CMOS settings profile
    in the BIOS chip. If I change the battery on that machine,
    I do a "Load Profile #1" in the BIOS screen, and all the
    settings come back (custom memory timing settings).

    Custom memory settings are only required, when the
    machine makes poor choices. Most of the time (like on
    a Dell), the settings are conservative and "standard"
    settings should work just fine. It took me a week
    of testing, for the custom settings. That's why they
    are recorded in a Profile, so I won't lose them :-)

    Paul



    I ran a HD-Tune on the 8500,..

    https://postimg.cc/cgwMkXm8

    https://postimg.cc/ZvLP4nXb

    https://postimg.cc/NL8Z54cM

    https://postimg.cc/6y9gRvWh

    The fan seems OK and as I said the computer is
    totally silent however I still would like to get a
    fan just in case.

    If I cannot get a new 5 pin fan for the 8500
    could I get a similar fan and a 5 pin adaptor?

    Thanks,
    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Mar 16 05:53:20 2025
    On Sat, 3/15/2025 7:48 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 3/14/2025 4:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of
    other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
    boot order? etc.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You can browse through the settings, and make note of
    the things you have changed.

    a few machines, have the ability to "record a profile",
    which can be stored on a USB stick. But for many others,
    corrections to the settings are done manually, after
    the battery is changed.

    The X79 here, it stored the CMOS settings profile
    in the BIOS chip. If I change the battery on that machine,
    I do a  "Load Profile #1" in the BIOS screen, and all the
    settings come back (custom memory timing settings).

    Custom memory settings are only required, when the
    machine makes poor choices. Most of the time (like on
    a Dell), the settings are conservative and "standard"
    settings should work just fine. It took me a week
    of testing, for the custom settings. That's why they
    are recorded in a Profile, so I won't lose them :-)

        Paul



    I ran a HD-Tune on the 8500,..

    https://postimg.cc/cgwMkXm8

    https://postimg.cc/ZvLP4nXb

    https://postimg.cc/NL8Z54cM

    https://postimg.cc/6y9gRvWh

    The fan seems OK and as I said the computer is
    totally silent however I still would like to get a
    fan just in case.

    If I cannot get a new 5 pin fan for the 8500
    could I get a similar fan and a 5 pin adaptor?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The HDTune results, still look to me like some interference
    with the test, rather than a bad drive. The spacing of the spikes
    is a bit too regular. The other thing to look at, is the yellow
    seek dots are in a nice tight band, with no dots resting outside
    the band. That is inconsistent with the spikes in the blue line,
    and if the spikes in the blue line were "real", there would
    be a sprinkling of yellow dots outside the band.

    I ran off some scans, for a post I made earlier today, and
    the seek dots between the first and second scan look different
    from one another. There seemed to be a bit of interference
    with the first scan (down near the end), and whatever the interference
    was, also made the first bit of seek dots worse.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/MKC7PQpt/benchmark-as-HDD-health-check.gif

    And really, nothing should be interfering with the non-OS drive.
    If you have a separate data drive, it should be possible to
    benchmark that, without interference happening.

    The two drives in my example, I consider them to be perfectly
    healthy, and I have no reason to be buying replacements,
    based on the scan results. If there were funny sounds coming from
    the drive, then I might consider it. It depends on what the sound is.

    In the old days, the anti-static spring that touches the
    spindle hub, used to make a noise, but that wasn't a reason to
    replace a drive. They no longer use that scheme to ground
    the spindle. The spindle may have been grounded, to prevent
    electrostatic charge buildup. You can tell from some of the
    things they did in the past, they were pretty worried about
    internal ESD on the drives. ESD could easily blow a head
    on the drive, if it happened. The amplifier chip would be unlikely
    to handle ESD all that well. Today there are fewer obvious
    artifacts indicating a great concern about static charge.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Mar 16 05:23:09 2025
    On Sat, 3/15/2025 7:48 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 3/14/2025 4:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of
    other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
    boot order? etc.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You can browse through the settings, and make note of
    the things you have changed.

    a few machines, have the ability to "record a profile",
    which can be stored on a USB stick. But for many others,
    corrections to the settings are done manually, after
    the battery is changed.

    The X79 here, it stored the CMOS settings profile
    in the BIOS chip. If I change the battery on that machine,
    I do a  "Load Profile #1" in the BIOS screen, and all the
    settings come back (custom memory timing settings).

    Custom memory settings are only required, when the
    machine makes poor choices. Most of the time (like on
    a Dell), the settings are conservative and "standard"
    settings should work just fine. It took me a week
    of testing, for the custom settings. That's why they
    are recorded in a Profile, so I won't lose them :-)

        Paul



    I ran a HD-Tune on the 8500,..

    https://postimg.cc/cgwMkXm8 ST2000DM001 ~37C seek dots look better than blue line

    https://postimg.cc/ZvLP4nXb Info Tab (normal)

    https://postimg.cc/NL8Z54cM Reallocated = 0

    https://postimg.cc/6y9gRvWh Current Pending Sector = 0 [only goes non-zero near end-of-life]

    The fan seems OK and as I said the computer is
    totally silent however I still would like to get a
    fan just in case.

    If I cannot get a new 5 pin fan for the 8500
    could I get a similar fan and a 5 pin adaptor?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    I don't know, if anyone understands what the five wires
    are for. One of the wires seems redundant (like having
    two ground wires or something). I think that fan design
    was invented before Intel PWM control came along, so it is
    hard to be certain it uses VCC GND RPM PWM as the interface.

    There are not really a lot of options, but you would
    want to get the details done right, since the BIOS
    checks the CPU fan and if the BIOS is ever unhappy with
    what it finds out about the CPU fan, it can turn the
    computer off (to protect the computer).

    On regular computers, people would "swap" the control cable
    on two fans, so that "a good set of signals" would go to the
    CPU fan header, and the BIOS did not care about the other fans
    and their statistics. And that's just a way of keeping
    a computer running. There have to be pulses at a minimum
    rate on the RPM line, to keep the BIOS happy. I used to have
    a PC here, where occasionally when the computer started,
    the BIOS would flag that the CPU fan was too slow and
    it would drop me into the BIOS screen, instead of finishing
    the boot.

    *******

    The part number may be on a sticker on the fan somewhere.

    In this example, the fan in the advert claims to be for the
    CPU, but it has a "standard three pin" connector and not
    the Dell-specific 5 pin. This would be easier to replace,
    since the volume is stated on the hub (37 CFM, and relatively
    low power at 12V @ 0.1A or so). That is more or less similar to
    a lot of computer case cooling fans. When a fan has three pins,
    it can be a voltage control type, and the red wire can vary
    between +7V and +12V to control the speed. The part number
    on this could be "RKC55", and in the sample photo, the Dell
    part number is on the sticky label.

    https://www.newegg.com/p/0VE-002G-002V2

    Fan Diameter: 92mm

    You could buy a 92mm computer fan to replace it.
    (When fan speeds come in low, medium, high, ultra,
    that fan is a medium or ~35CFM or so.) Many computer
    rear exhaust fans are 35CFM. And they run off +12V and
    have a yellow RPM wire too.

    The older Dell fan, which was a five wire, it drew 12V @ 1.0A
    and it sounded like a vacuum cleaner when run at 12V. Yours
    seems to have acquired a more reasonable fan :-)

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Mar 16 06:40:39 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 3/15/2025 7:48 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 3/14/2025 4:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of
    other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
    boot order? etc.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You can browse through the settings, and make note of
    the things you have changed.

    a few machines, have the ability to "record a profile",
    which can be stored on a USB stick. But for many others,
    corrections to the settings are done manually, after
    the battery is changed.

    The X79 here, it stored the CMOS settings profile
    in the BIOS chip. If I change the battery on that machine,
    I do a  "Load Profile #1" in the BIOS screen, and all the
    settings come back (custom memory timing settings).

    Custom memory settings are only required, when the
    machine makes poor choices. Most of the time (like on
    a Dell), the settings are conservative and "standard"
    settings should work just fine. It took me a week
    of testing, for the custom settings. That's why they
    are recorded in a Profile, so I won't lose them :-)

        Paul



    I ran a HD-Tune on the 8500,..

    https://postimg.cc/cgwMkXm8

    https://postimg.cc/ZvLP4nXb

    https://postimg.cc/NL8Z54cM

    https://postimg.cc/6y9gRvWh

    The fan seems OK and as I said the computer is
    totally silent however I still would like to get a
    fan just in case.

    If I cannot get a new 5 pin fan for the 8500
    could I get a similar fan and a 5 pin adaptor?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The HDTune results, still look to me like some interference
    with the test, rather than a bad drive. The spacing of the spikes
    is a bit too regular. The other thing to look at, is the yellow
    seek dots are in a nice tight band, with no dots resting outside
    the band. That is inconsistent with the spikes in the blue line,
    and if the spikes in the blue line were "real", there would
    be a sprinkling of yellow dots outside the band.

    I ran off some scans, for a post I made earlier today, and
    the seek dots between the first and second scan look different
    from one another. There seemed to be a bit of interference
    with the first scan (down near the end), and whatever the interference
    was, also made the first bit of seek dots worse.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/MKC7PQpt/benchmark-as-HDD-health-check.gif

    And really, nothing should be interfering with the non-OS drive.
    If you have a separate data drive, it should be possible to
    benchmark that, without interference happening.

    The two drives in my example, I consider them to be perfectly
    healthy, and I have no reason to be buying replacements,
    based on the scan results. If there were funny sounds coming from
    the drive, then I might consider it. It depends on what the sound is.

    In the old days, the anti-static spring that touches the
    spindle hub, used to make a noise, but that wasn't a reason to
    replace a drive. They no longer use that scheme to ground
    the spindle. The spindle may have been grounded, to prevent
    electrostatic charge buildup. You can tell from some of the
    things they did in the past, they were pretty worried about
    internal ESD on the drives. ESD could easily blow a head
    on the drive, if it happened. The amplifier chip would be unlikely
    to handle ESD all that well. Today there are fewer obvious
    artifacts indicating a great concern about static charge.

    Paul




    Should I change the battery in the 780?

    The fan is fine at present in the 8500, this is for the future.
    I did not realize computer fans were so involved. I thought
    they were all the same. I searched and I did find a fan but its
    Made in China

    https://www.newegg.com/p/0VE-05FM-001V3

    I can open up the 8500 and remove the fan and take a picture
    of its label if that helps?

    I did three more HD-Tunes,.

    https://postimg.cc/WqVjfBtZ

    https://postimg.cc/XXKnyYDk

    https://postimg.cc/MvWq0JC2

    Robert




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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Mar 16 13:40:41 2025
    On Sun, 3/16/2025 9:40 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 3/15/2025 7:48 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 3/14/2025 4:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of
    other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
    boot order? etc.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You can browse through the settings, and make note of
    the things you have changed.

    a few machines, have the ability to "record a profile",
    which can be stored on a USB stick. But for many others,
    corrections to the settings are done manually, after
    the battery is changed.

    The X79 here, it stored the CMOS settings profile
    in the BIOS chip. If I change the battery on that machine,
    I do a  "Load Profile #1" in the BIOS screen, and all the
    settings come back (custom memory timing settings).

    Custom memory settings are only required, when the
    machine makes poor choices. Most of the time (like on
    a Dell), the settings are conservative and "standard"
    settings should work just fine. It took me a week
    of testing, for the custom settings. That's why they
    are recorded in a Profile, so I won't lose them :-)

         Paul



    I ran a HD-Tune on the 8500,..

    https://postimg.cc/cgwMkXm8

    https://postimg.cc/ZvLP4nXb

    https://postimg.cc/NL8Z54cM

    https://postimg.cc/6y9gRvWh

    The fan seems OK and as I said the computer is
    totally silent however I still would like to get a
    fan just in case.

    If I cannot get a new 5 pin fan for the 8500
    could I get a similar fan and a 5 pin adaptor?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The HDTune results, still look to me like some interference
    with the test, rather than a bad drive. The spacing of the spikes
    is a bit too regular. The other thing to look at, is the yellow
    seek dots are in a nice tight band, with no dots resting outside
    the band. That is inconsistent with the spikes in the blue line,
    and if the spikes in the blue line were "real", there would
    be a sprinkling of yellow dots outside the band.

    I ran off some scans, for a post I made earlier today, and
    the seek dots between the first and second scan look different
    from one another. There seemed to be a bit of interference
    with the first scan (down near the end), and whatever the interference
    was, also made the first bit of seek dots worse.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/MKC7PQpt/benchmark-as-HDD-health-check.gif >>
    And really, nothing should be interfering with the non-OS drive.
    If you have a separate data drive, it should be possible to
    benchmark that, without interference happening.

    The two drives in my example, I consider them to be perfectly
    healthy, and I have no reason to be buying replacements,
    based on the scan results. If there were funny sounds coming from
    the drive, then I might consider it. It depends on what the sound is.

    In the old days, the anti-static spring that touches the
    spindle hub, used to make a noise, but that wasn't a reason to
    replace a drive. They no longer use that scheme to ground
    the spindle. The spindle may have been grounded, to prevent
    electrostatic charge buildup. You can tell from some of the
    things they did in the past, they were pretty worried about
    internal ESD on the drives. ESD could easily blow a head
    on the drive, if it happened. The amplifier chip would be unlikely
    to handle ESD all that well. Today there are fewer obvious
    artifacts indicating a great concern about static charge.

        Paul




    Should I change the battery in the 780?

    The fan is fine at present in the 8500, this is for the future.
    I did not realize computer fans were so involved. I thought
    they were all the same. I searched and I did find a fan but its
    Made in China

    https://www.newegg.com/p/0VE-05FM-001V3

    I can open up the 8500 and remove the fan and take a picture
    of its label if that helps?

    I did three more HD-Tunes,.

    https://postimg.cc/WqVjfBtZ

    https://postimg.cc/XXKnyYDk

    https://postimg.cc/MvWq0JC2

    Robert

    But you are seeing the same sort of thing I see.

    The spikes are moving around.

    If a disk drive has an issue, the "bad" areas, the spikes
    don't move. Each and every run, a "bad spike" should be reproduced.
    The spikes would be caused by the drive having to look for
    a reallocated sector which is not local to the track. Normally the
    spares would be local to the area, and the processing time to handle
    a remapped sector causes a minor change in speed.

    It could be, that AVG is sampling data on the disk. Just a guess.
    I don't use AVG here, so I don't know what the AVG dining
    habits are.

    Your last scan looks reasonably clean. The shape of the curve is
    not wonky.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Mar 16 16:52:06 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 3/16/2025 9:40 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 3/15/2025 7:48 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 3/14/2025 4:29 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Do I need to change the battery? If so, don't I have to do allot of >>>>>> other things after doing so? Will it screw up my BIOS settings?
    boot order? etc.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    You can browse through the settings, and make note of
    the things you have changed.

    a few machines, have the ability to "record a profile",
    which can be stored on a USB stick. But for many others,
    corrections to the settings are done manually, after
    the battery is changed.

    The X79 here, it stored the CMOS settings profile
    in the BIOS chip. If I change the battery on that machine,
    I do a  "Load Profile #1" in the BIOS screen, and all the
    settings come back (custom memory timing settings).

    Custom memory settings are only required, when the
    machine makes poor choices. Most of the time (like on
    a Dell), the settings are conservative and "standard"
    settings should work just fine. It took me a week
    of testing, for the custom settings. That's why they
    are recorded in a Profile, so I won't lose them :-)

         Paul



    I ran a HD-Tune on the 8500,..

    https://postimg.cc/cgwMkXm8

    https://postimg.cc/ZvLP4nXb

    https://postimg.cc/NL8Z54cM

    https://postimg.cc/6y9gRvWh

    The fan seems OK and as I said the computer is
    totally silent however I still would like to get a
    fan just in case.

    If I cannot get a new 5 pin fan for the 8500
    could I get a similar fan and a 5 pin adaptor?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The HDTune results, still look to me like some interference
    with the test, rather than a bad drive. The spacing of the spikes
    is a bit too regular. The other thing to look at, is the yellow
    seek dots are in a nice tight band, with no dots resting outside
    the band. That is inconsistent with the spikes in the blue line,
    and if the spikes in the blue line were "real", there would
    be a sprinkling of yellow dots outside the band.

    I ran off some scans, for a post I made earlier today, and
    the seek dots between the first and second scan look different
    from one another. There seemed to be a bit of interference
    with the first scan (down near the end), and whatever the interference
    was, also made the first bit of seek dots worse.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/MKC7PQpt/benchmark-as-HDD-health-check.gif >>>
    And really, nothing should be interfering with the non-OS drive.
    If you have a separate data drive, it should be possible to
    benchmark that, without interference happening.

    The two drives in my example, I consider them to be perfectly
    healthy, and I have no reason to be buying replacements,
    based on the scan results. If there were funny sounds coming from
    the drive, then I might consider it. It depends on what the sound is.

    In the old days, the anti-static spring that touches the
    spindle hub, used to make a noise, but that wasn't a reason to
    replace a drive. They no longer use that scheme to ground
    the spindle. The spindle may have been grounded, to prevent
    electrostatic charge buildup. You can tell from some of the
    things they did in the past, they were pretty worried about
    internal ESD on the drives. ESD could easily blow a head
    on the drive, if it happened. The amplifier chip would be unlikely
    to handle ESD all that well. Today there are fewer obvious
    artifacts indicating a great concern about static charge.

        Paul




    Should I change the battery in the 780?

    The fan is fine at present in the 8500, this is for the future.
    I did not realize computer fans were so involved. I thought
    they were all the same. I searched and I did find a fan but its
    Made in China

    https://www.newegg.com/p/0VE-05FM-001V3

    I can open up the 8500 and remove the fan and take a picture
    of its label if that helps?

    I did three more HD-Tunes,.

    https://postimg.cc/WqVjfBtZ

    https://postimg.cc/XXKnyYDk

    https://postimg.cc/MvWq0JC2

    Robert

    But you are seeing the same sort of thing I see.

    The spikes are moving around.

    If a disk drive has an issue, the "bad" areas, the spikes
    don't move. Each and every run, a "bad spike" should be reproduced.
    The spikes would be caused by the drive having to look for
    a reallocated sector which is not local to the track. Normally the
    spares would be local to the area, and the processing time to handle
    a remapped sector causes a minor change in speed.

    It could be, that AVG is sampling data on the disk. Just a guess.
    I don't use AVG here, so I don't know what the AVG dining
    habits are.

    Your last scan looks reasonably clean. The shape of the curve is
    not wonky.

    Paul



    I opened up the 8500 and took a picture of the fan label.


    https://postimg.cc/NyRXkNQc

    Here's a picture of the correct fan mounting(arrow out). I
    wish there was a way to remove the fan from the power
    housing so I could clean it.

    https://postimg.cc/fJvgBKTY

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Mar 18 02:19:57 2025
    On Sun, 3/16/2025 7:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I opened up the 8500 and took a picture of the fan label.


    https://postimg.cc/NyRXkNQc

    Here's a picture of the correct fan mounting(arrow out). I
    wish there was a way to remove the fan from the power
    housing so I could clean it.

    https://postimg.cc/fJvgBKTY

    Robert


    This could be an XPS 8500. There are black screws loaded
    into the bottom holes of the standards-compliant fan that
    line up with "stand holes" on the side of the heatsink.
    Undoing the four black screws, should allow the fan to be
    lifted off the aluminum heatsink. When unscrewing the four
    screws, remember these are steel screws cutting into
    aluminum, and these can churn up tiny flecks of metal.
    When screwing the screws back in, don't overdo it on screw
    force and cut any more aluminum metal flecks off than necessary,
    because they might fall into something electrical.

    https://nattokude.gozaru.jp/image/xps8500/xps8500_073.jpg

    The heatsink, I think that may have been a boxed Intel heatsink
    shipped at one time. It doesn't have a copper slug for conduction
    in the center, and is typically good for 65W CPUs. Yours
    is a 3770K. That is listed as 77W, so pretty close.

    https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/65523/intel-core-i73770k-processor-8m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz/specifications.html

    Some people have fastened replacement heatsinks to the
    3770K (presumably as a vanity item). You can get much
    more fancy coolers, for no particular reason. You would
    consider an alternate cooling design, if some other part
    of the motherboard needed cooling.

    On my X48 motherboard, I used a blow-down cooler from Coolermaster,
    as that helps cool the odd thing on the motherboard surface too.
    The blow-down cooler in my current PC, doesn't work worth a damn,
    in the sense that almost no airflow hits the motherboard surface,
    so this purchase was not all that exceptional. I only have it
    in the PC at the current time, so it won't be "wasted" by
    sitting on the shelf. The current PC does not draw that much
    power -- my other machine is more power hungry and got a bigger cooler.

    You should keep the openings in the heatsink clean, but the
    Intel design does not exactly make this easy. It doesn't look
    like a Q-tip is going to work.

    In any case, I think you can figure out some sort of way
    to clean that up a bit. While you could take it all apart,
    you'd need thermal paste to butter it up (bottom of heatsink)
    before reassembly, which is not much of a problem, but the other
    part is removing the phase change material already printed on
    the heatsink, and that involves scraping followed by
    a cleanup with isopropyl. Not my favorite job to do,
    as the isopropyl is likely not the best material for
    the job. Still, it's what I use for cleanup, as that's
    all I've got. There is a "cleaner/purifier" you can buy
    as a liquid, but it's for a specific kind of paste removal.
    The custom cleaners can work really well (but are intended
    for one specific kind of cleaning job).

    There are a total of eight screws. Four screws (a bit hidden)
    hold the fan. Four screws (into the motherboard), hold the
    heatsink to the motherboard. The heatsink screws typically
    have springs on them, to control the tension.
    To clean the fan, only the fan screws need to be removed.

    Paul

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Mar 18 02:37:15 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 3/16/2025 7:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I opened up the 8500 and took a picture of the fan label.


    https://postimg.cc/NyRXkNQc

    Here's a picture of the correct fan mounting(arrow out). I
    wish there was a way to remove the fan from the power
    housing so I could clean it.

    https://postimg.cc/fJvgBKTY

    Robert


    This could be an XPS 8500. There are black screws loaded
    into the bottom holes of the standards-compliant fan that
    line up with "stand holes" on the side of the heatsink.
    Undoing the four black screws, should allow the fan to be
    lifted off the aluminum heatsink. When unscrewing the four
    screws, remember these are steel screws cutting into
    aluminum, and these can churn up tiny flecks of metal.
    When screwing the screws back in, don't overdo it on screw
    force and cut any more aluminum metal flecks off than necessary,
    because they might fall into something electrical.

    https://nattokude.gozaru.jp/image/xps8500/xps8500_073.jpg

    The heatsink, I think that may have been a boxed Intel heatsink
    shipped at one time. It doesn't have a copper slug for conduction
    in the center, and is typically good for 65W CPUs. Yours
    is a 3770K. That is listed as 77W, so pretty close.

    https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/65523/intel-core-i73770k-processor-8m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz/specifications.html

    Some people have fastened replacement heatsinks to the
    3770K (presumably as a vanity item). You can get much
    more fancy coolers, for no particular reason. You would
    consider an alternate cooling design, if some other part
    of the motherboard needed cooling.

    On my X48 motherboard, I used a blow-down cooler from Coolermaster,
    as that helps cool the odd thing on the motherboard surface too.
    The blow-down cooler in my current PC, doesn't work worth a damn,
    in the sense that almost no airflow hits the motherboard surface,
    so this purchase was not all that exceptional. I only have it
    in the PC at the current time, so it won't be "wasted" by
    sitting on the shelf. The current PC does not draw that much
    power -- my other machine is more power hungry and got a bigger cooler.

    You should keep the openings in the heatsink clean, but the
    Intel design does not exactly make this easy. It doesn't look
    like a Q-tip is going to work.

    In any case, I think you can figure out some sort of way
    to clean that up a bit. While you could take it all apart,
    you'd need thermal paste to butter it up (bottom of heatsink)
    before reassembly, which is not much of a problem, but the other
    part is removing the phase change material already printed on
    the heatsink, and that involves scraping followed by
    a cleanup with isopropyl. Not my favorite job to do,
    as the isopropyl is likely not the best material for
    the job. Still, it's what I use for cleanup, as that's
    all I've got. There is a "cleaner/purifier" you can buy
    as a liquid, but it's for a specific kind of paste removal.
    The custom cleaners can work really well (but are intended
    for one specific kind of cleaning job).

    There are a total of eight screws. Four screws (a bit hidden)
    hold the fan. Four screws (into the motherboard), hold the
    heatsink to the motherboard. The heatsink screws typically
    have springs on them, to control the tension.
    To clean the fan, only the fan screws need to be removed.

    Paul


    I didn't actually mean the fan on the heat sink,.. I meant the fan behind
    the grill with holes of the power supply.

    I don't know if I want to disassemble the heat sink to clean it. I honestly thought I had cleaned it pretty good from before. Of course if I removed
    it I could do a better job but man that's just asking for trouble with my history and I don't have your expertise. Were talking about the 8500
    remember and I don't want to screw that up. I thought I also cleaned the
    fan pretty good.

    Maybe I can remove the fan to gain access to the heat sink and clean it
    more thoroughly?

    In passing,.. should I change the battery in the 780?

    Thanks,
    Robert


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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Mar 18 15:29:44 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 3/16/2025 7:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I opened up the 8500 and took a picture of the fan label.


    https://postimg.cc/NyRXkNQc

    Here's a picture of the correct fan mounting(arrow out). I
    wish there was a way to remove the fan from the power
    housing so I could clean it.

    https://postimg.cc/fJvgBKTY

    Robert


    This could be an XPS 8500. There are black screws loaded
    into the bottom holes of the standards-compliant fan that
    line up with "stand holes" on the side of the heatsink.
    Undoing the four black screws, should allow the fan to be
    lifted off the aluminum heatsink. When unscrewing the four
    screws, remember these are steel screws cutting into
    aluminum, and these can churn up tiny flecks of metal.
    When screwing the screws back in, don't overdo it on screw
    force and cut any more aluminum metal flecks off than necessary,
    because they might fall into something electrical.

    https://nattokude.gozaru.jp/image/xps8500/xps8500_073.jpg

    The heatsink, I think that may have been a boxed Intel heatsink
    shipped at one time. It doesn't have a copper slug for conduction
    in the center, and is typically good for 65W CPUs. Yours
    is a 3770K. That is listed as 77W, so pretty close.

    https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/65523/intel-core-i73770k-processor-8m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz/specifications.html

    Some people have fastened replacement heatsinks to the
    3770K (presumably as a vanity item). You can get much
    more fancy coolers, for no particular reason. You would
    consider an alternate cooling design, if some other part
    of the motherboard needed cooling.

    On my X48 motherboard, I used a blow-down cooler from Coolermaster,
    as that helps cool the odd thing on the motherboard surface too.
    The blow-down cooler in my current PC, doesn't work worth a damn,
    in the sense that almost no airflow hits the motherboard surface,
    so this purchase was not all that exceptional. I only have it
    in the PC at the current time, so it won't be "wasted" by
    sitting on the shelf. The current PC does not draw that much
    power -- my other machine is more power hungry and got a bigger cooler.

    You should keep the openings in the heatsink clean, but the
    Intel design does not exactly make this easy. It doesn't look
    like a Q-tip is going to work.

    In any case, I think you can figure out some sort of way
    to clean that up a bit. While you could take it all apart,
    you'd need thermal paste to butter it up (bottom of heatsink)
    before reassembly, which is not much of a problem, but the other
    part is removing the phase change material already printed on
    the heatsink, and that involves scraping followed by
    a cleanup with isopropyl. Not my favorite job to do,
    as the isopropyl is likely not the best material for
    the job. Still, it's what I use for cleanup, as that's
    all I've got. There is a "cleaner/purifier" you can buy
    as a liquid, but it's for a specific kind of paste removal.
    The custom cleaners can work really well (but are intended
    for one specific kind of cleaning job).

    There are a total of eight screws. Four screws (a bit hidden)
    hold the fan. Four screws (into the motherboard), hold the
    heatsink to the motherboard. The heatsink screws typically
    have springs on them, to control the tension.
    To clean the fan, only the fan screws need to be removed.

    Paul


    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Mar 18 23:03:00 2025
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Mar 18 22:58:10 2025
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 5:37 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 3/16/2025 7:52 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I opened up the 8500 and took a picture of the fan label.


    https://postimg.cc/NyRXkNQc

    Here's a picture of the correct fan mounting(arrow out). I
    wish there was a way to remove the fan from the power
    housing so I could clean it.

    https://postimg.cc/fJvgBKTY

    Robert


    This could be an XPS 8500. There are black screws loaded
    into the bottom holes of the standards-compliant fan that
    line up with "stand holes" on the side of the heatsink.
    Undoing the four black screws, should allow the fan to be
    lifted off the aluminum heatsink. When unscrewing the four
    screws, remember these are steel screws cutting into
    aluminum, and these can churn up tiny flecks of metal.
    When screwing the screws back in, don't overdo it on screw
    force and cut any more aluminum metal flecks off than necessary,
    because they might fall into something electrical.

    https://nattokude.gozaru.jp/image/xps8500/xps8500_073.jpg

    The heatsink, I think that may have been a boxed Intel heatsink
    shipped at one time. It doesn't have a copper slug for conduction
    in the center, and is typically good for 65W CPUs. Yours
    is a 3770K. That is listed as 77W, so pretty close.

    https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/65523/intel-core-i73770k-processor-8m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz/specifications.html

    Some people have fastened replacement heatsinks to the
    3770K (presumably as a vanity item). You can get much
    more fancy coolers, for no particular reason. You would
    consider an alternate cooling design, if some other part
    of the motherboard needed cooling.

    On my X48 motherboard, I used a blow-down cooler from Coolermaster,
    as that helps cool the odd thing on the motherboard surface too.
    The blow-down cooler in my current PC, doesn't work worth a damn,
    in the sense that almost no airflow hits the motherboard surface,
    so this purchase was not all that exceptional. I only have it
    in the PC at the current time, so it won't be "wasted" by
    sitting on the shelf. The current PC does not draw that much
    power -- my other machine is more power hungry and got a bigger cooler.

    You should keep the openings in the heatsink clean, but the
    Intel design does not exactly make this easy. It doesn't look
    like a Q-tip is going to work.

    In any case, I think you can figure out some sort of way
    to clean that up a bit. While you could take it all apart,
    you'd need thermal paste to butter it up (bottom of heatsink)
    before reassembly, which is not much of a problem, but the other
    part is removing the phase change material already printed on
    the heatsink, and that involves scraping followed by
    a cleanup with isopropyl. Not my favorite job to do,
    as the isopropyl is likely not the best material for
    the job. Still, it's what I use for cleanup, as that's
    all I've got. There is a "cleaner/purifier" you can buy
    as a liquid, but it's for a specific kind of paste removal.
    The custom cleaners can work really well (but are intended
    for one specific kind of cleaning job).

    There are a total of eight screws. Four screws (a bit hidden)
    hold the fan. Four screws (into the motherboard), hold the
    heatsink to the motherboard. The heatsink screws typically
    have springs on them, to control the tension.
    To clean the fan, only the fan screws need to be removed.

        Paul


    I didn't actually mean the fan on the heat sink,.. I meant the fan behind
    the grill with holes of the power supply.

    I don't know if I want to disassemble the heat sink to clean it. I honestly thought I had cleaned it pretty good from before. Of course if I removed
    it I could do a better job but man that's just asking for trouble with my history and I don't have your expertise. Were talking about the 8500
    remember and I don't want to screw that up. I thought I also cleaned the
    fan pretty good.

    Maybe I can remove the fan to gain access to the heat sink and clean it
    more thoroughly?

    In passing,.. should I change the battery in the 780?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    I think you could change the 780 CMOS battery.

    It should not be too difficult to get it to start again,
    as there aren't that many settings to straighten out.
    You have to enter the BIOS and turn on the correct SATA ports,
    so you may want to look at how the BIOS is set for the SATA
    ports before changing the battery. I think that is the
    most contentious part of it.

    Without battery power, the 780 cannot maintain the time on
    the RTC, when it does not have AC power. And I expect the BIOS
    will moan and complain about the battery, until you change it :-)

    *******

    To check the CPU temperature, you can use a hardware monitor program.
    99C (close to boiling point of water), is the CPU package limit, and
    normally it throttles before it gets that hot.

    https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html

    # This is the non-Pro version of HWMonitor.
    # It should be sufficient to list the CPU temperature.

    "Setup - English"

    "ZIP - English" <=== This one is portable and does not "install"

    https://download.cpuid.com/hwmonitor/hwmonitor_1.56.zip

    That allows you to measure the CPU temperature.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/QN2PRVy6/HWMonitor.gif

    I didn't give the CPU much of a workout there.
    Even running Prime95, that CPU only gets to around
    54C or so.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Mar 19 01:43:34 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

    Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
    since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Mar 19 15:09:32 2025
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

        Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
    since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
    The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The
    XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
    The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
    you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Mar 19 18:30:14 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

        Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
    since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
    The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The
    XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
    The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
    you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

    Paul


    I had no idea replacing the fans was so complex.

    I enlarged on of the pics and here's the label
    for the heat sink fan.

    https://postimg.cc/gx13vpWT

    Is it possible we can buy a replacement fan for the 780 as well?
    It must be within the black enclosure and I would need to remove
    that to access the fan. The only other fan is on the video card.

    https://postimg.cc/SnYMQPM7

    I opened the 780 to change the battery but it was CR2025 and I
    have a CR2032 so will go get a new CR2025.

    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Mar 20 00:24:21 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

        Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
    since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
    The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The
    XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
    The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
    you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

    Paul


    I did some searches for the 8500 rear fan and
    I found this:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/113091985003

    I also did searches for the heat sink fan

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/186382890448?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1DQei07pEQ-yGWoJ_kffzEw22&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=186382890448&targetid=2320093655185&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1014127&poi=&
    campaignid=21222258394&mkgroupid=164713660992&rlsatarget=aud-1412318123216:pla-2320093655185&abcId=9408285&merchantid=113390167&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIldKC9I6YjAMVSyNECB0ivjX9EAQYBSABEgI4SvD_BwE

    What do you think?
    Robert



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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 21 20:48:05 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

        Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
    since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
    The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The
    XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
    The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
    you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

    Paul


    Sorry about that,. I should of checked

    https://postimg.cc/ftnMgmSs

    Robert



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 21 20:42:23 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

        Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
    since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
    The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm is the square outside dimension. The
    XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
    The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
    you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

    Paul



    I guess I missed your post on checking the temp of the CPU.

    https://postimg.cc/18mnvhhB

    I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to remove
    the fan.

    I still have to buy the battery for the 780 and install it. I'll
    let you know.

    Robert


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Mar 22 00:36:02 2025
    On Thu, 3/20/2025 3:24 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

         Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
    since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm   thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
                                     The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm  is the square outside dimension. The >>                                        XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
    The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
    you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

         Paul


    I did some searches for the 8500 rear fan and
    I found this:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/113091985003

    I also did searches for the heat sink fan

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/186382890448

    What do you think?
    Robert

    As long as they match the Dell part number, they should be fine.
    The Dell part number on the fans at least, should be on the
    hub sticker.

    I don't know how you get the five pin (four wires plus keying pin)
    off the Dell Optiplex 780. There's a tab on the side
    of it, but it is not clear what you do with the tab,
    to make the connector release.

    That's one of the problems with messing around with
    this stuff. The undocumented proprietary stuff (like
    putting the wires in the wrong order), that's the kind
    of stuff I don't enjoy.

    And before you take the Intel heatsink off your processor,
    it would help to at least have a tube of AS5 or similar.
    And maybe some "cleaner/purifier", anything that makes
    cleanup of the heatsink surface easier. Ordinary thermal paste
    cleans off easily, compared to the phase change stuff that
    has to be scraped off. The phase change becomes "plastic"
    and "flows" when it is heated up.

    At my computer store, there is an ashtray next to the cash,
    and it has the small-size tubes of AS5 in it.

    My first tube of thermal paste (AS3?), lasted around 15 years :-)
    I guess I'm just not adventurous enough. I now have the
    big tube of AS5.

    Some of my heatsinks here, are more of a challenge than the Dell.
    For those, you get both hands underneath them, and feel
    the screw and mount point with a finger, in an attempt
    to line them up. You muscles will be aching after ten
    minutes of the damn screw thread not picking up, after
    repeated attempts to start it. That's the fun of
    messing with heatsinks. Or when I re-greased a video card,
    having the thing slide around while I'm trying to get the
    screws into it. This stuff is loads of fun, no matter
    how many times you practice assembly with the heatsink
    dry (no paste on it, while you practice).

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 21 23:48:34 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 3/20/2025 3:24 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

         Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
    since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm   thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
                                     The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm  is the square outside dimension. The >>>                                        XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
    The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
    you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

         Paul


    I did some searches for the 8500 rear fan and
    I found this:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/113091985003

    I also did searches for the heat sink fan

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/186382890448

    What do you think?
    Robert

    As long as they match the Dell part number, they should be fine.
    The Dell part number on the fans at least, should be on the
    hub sticker.

    I don't know how you get the five pin (four wires plus keying pin)
    off the Dell Optiplex 780. There's a tab on the side
    of it, but it is not clear what you do with the tab,
    to make the connector release.

    That's one of the problems with messing around with
    this stuff. The undocumented proprietary stuff (like
    putting the wires in the wrong order), that's the kind
    of stuff I don't enjoy.

    And before you take the Intel heatsink off your processor,
    it would help to at least have a tube of AS5 or similar.
    And maybe some "cleaner/purifier", anything that makes
    cleanup of the heatsink surface easier. Ordinary thermal paste
    cleans off easily, compared to the phase change stuff that
    has to be scraped off. The phase change becomes "plastic"
    and "flows" when it is heated up.

    At my computer store, there is an ashtray next to the cash,
    and it has the small-size tubes of AS5 in it.

    My first tube of thermal paste (AS3?), lasted around 15 years :-)
    I guess I'm just not adventurous enough. I now have the
    big tube of AS5.

    Some of my heatsinks here, are more of a challenge than the Dell.
    For those, you get both hands underneath them, and feel
    the screw and mount point with a finger, in an attempt
    to line them up. You muscles will be aching after ten
    minutes of the damn screw thread not picking up, after
    repeated attempts to start it. That's the fun of
    messing with heatsinks. Or when I re-greased a video card,
    having the thing slide around while I'm trying to get the
    screws into it. This stuff is loads of fun, no matter
    how many times you practice assembly with the heatsink
    dry (no paste on it, while you practice).

    Paul



    I checked the CPU temp on the 8500:

    https://postimg.cc/zHgjJLJq

    https://postimg.cc/CBZCNZnb

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 21 23:37:21 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 3/20/2025 3:24 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

         Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
    since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm   thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
                                     The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm  is the square outside dimension. The >>>                                        XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
    The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
    you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

         Paul


    I did some searches for the 8500 rear fan and
    I found this:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/113091985003

    I also did searches for the heat sink fan

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/186382890448

    What do you think?
    Robert

    As long as they match the Dell part number, they should be fine.
    The Dell part number on the fans at least, should be on the
    hub sticker.

    I don't know how you get the five pin (four wires plus keying pin)
    off the Dell Optiplex 780. There's a tab on the side
    of it, but it is not clear what you do with the tab,
    to make the connector release.

    That's one of the problems with messing around with
    this stuff. The undocumented proprietary stuff (like
    putting the wires in the wrong order), that's the kind
    of stuff I don't enjoy.

    And before you take the Intel heatsink off your processor,
    it would help to at least have a tube of AS5 or similar.
    And maybe some "cleaner/purifier", anything that makes
    cleanup of the heatsink surface easier. Ordinary thermal paste
    cleans off easily, compared to the phase change stuff that
    has to be scraped off. The phase change becomes "plastic"
    and "flows" when it is heated up.

    At my computer store, there is an ashtray next to the cash,
    and it has the small-size tubes of AS5 in it.

    My first tube of thermal paste (AS3?), lasted around 15 years :-)
    I guess I'm just not adventurous enough. I now have the
    big tube of AS5.

    Some of my heatsinks here, are more of a challenge than the Dell.
    For those, you get both hands underneath them, and feel
    the screw and mount point with a finger, in an attempt
    to line them up. You muscles will be aching after ten
    minutes of the damn screw thread not picking up, after
    repeated attempts to start it. That's the fun of
    messing with heatsinks. Or when I re-greased a video card,
    having the thing slide around while I'm trying to get the
    screws into it. This stuff is loads of fun, no matter
    how many times you practice assembly with the heatsink
    dry (no paste on it, while you practice).

    Paul


    I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to access
    and remove the fan. I found instructions on how to remove the fan on
    page 58 but it doesn't show the cover piece except at the beginning inset.

    https://dl.dell.com/manuals/all-products/esuprt_desktop/esuprt_optiplex_desktop/optiplex-780_service%20manual2_en-us.pdf

    I searched found some AS5 thermal paste.


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/396222721010?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1LX_mFCkWRCm1-IPk7pZ4jg13&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=396222721010&targetid=2319404999269&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1014127&poi=&
    campaignid=21222256297&mkgroupid=167054596991&rlsatarget=aud-1297930287338:pla-2319404999269&abcId=9408285&merchantid=6296724&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIicm43YSdjAMVKihECB1XQA5LEAQYAiABEgJVIPD_BwE

    and I can use simple green or isopropyl alcohol to clean it.

    I know what you mean about getting things off/on....


    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Mar 22 03:57:17 2025
    On Fri, 3/21/2025 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

         Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
    since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm   thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
                                     The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm  is the square outside dimension. The >>                                        XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
    The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
    you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

         Paul



    I guess I missed your post on checking the temp of the CPU.

    https://postimg.cc/18mnvhhB

    I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to remove
    the fan.

    I still have to buy the battery for the 780 and install it. I'll
    let you know.

    Robert

    Your Hardware Monitor might look like this. Use the scroll bar.
    The "snippingtool.exe" can take pictures. If you are not
    running this with your Administrator account, that will hamper
    what the readout can do. That's why yours does not have the
    same rows this one has.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/6p85d9xG/hwmonitor-dell-optiplex-780.gif

    *******

    The two screws that hold the shroud over the CPU, also
    undo the heatsink! The shroud and heatsink are one and the same.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/J0RdL456/Dell-Optiplex-780-Heatsink-Removal.jpg

    After cleaning the AS5 off that, I put some dots of AS5 before
    screwing the shroud back on. May have to wiggle the plastic part
    a little bit, so the two spring-loaded shroud screws, go into
    the screw holes.

    Arctic Silver 5 (listed prices are getting silly now)

    https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb1280/35-100-007-04.jpg

    *******

    To do the battery, you need to move the video card out of there.

    Flip the "tool-less" holder on the outside of the case, so the
    video card can rise up.

    Get your fingers down near the heel guard, depress the heel
    guard so the card can rise up, while rocking the card back to front
    and ease it upward, all the while keeping the heel guard depressed
    so it does not snag as the card comes up. You can grip the card by
    the faceplate to establish the grounding (for ESD purposes while handling). (Power should be disconnected while doing this.)

    Now that you have the video card out of the way, the CR2032 socket should
    be visible.
    ----
    /____\ <=== battery tucks in at the top

    low point here ==> <=== low point here (could pry up with jewelers screwdriver)

    \-- --/ <=== annoying two snaps won't allow cell to rise
    With a little tension at the low point, "flick"
    your finger nail, pushing the snap downwards.
    It may take a few tries before the cell pops upward
    at the "snaps" end. Really, one snap would have been
    sufficient. Two snaps is "customer abuse".

    So that's how you change the coin cell. Looks like CR2032.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/Rh0Qd3RB/Dell-Optiplex-780-CR2032-cell.jpg

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Mar 22 03:05:23 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 3/21/2025 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

         Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
    since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm   thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
                                     The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm  is the square outside dimension. The >>>                                        XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
    The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
    you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

         Paul



    I guess I missed your post on checking the temp of the CPU.

    https://postimg.cc/18mnvhhB

    I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to remove
    the fan.

    I still have to buy the battery for the 780 and install it. I'll
    let you know.

    Robert

    Your Hardware Monitor might look like this. Use the scroll bar.
    The "snippingtool.exe" can take pictures. If you are not
    running this with your Administrator account, that will hamper
    what the readout can do. That's why yours does not have the
    same rows this one has.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/6p85d9xG/hwmonitor-dell-optiplex-780.gif

    *******

    The two screws that hold the shroud over the CPU, also
    undo the heatsink! The shroud and heatsink are one and the same.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/J0RdL456/Dell-Optiplex-780-Heatsink-Removal.jpg

    After cleaning the AS5 off that, I put some dots of AS5 before
    screwing the shroud back on. May have to wiggle the plastic part
    a little bit, so the two spring-loaded shroud screws, go into
    the screw holes.

    Arctic Silver 5 (listed prices are getting silly now)

    https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb1280/35-100-007-04.jpg

    *******

    To do the battery, you need to move the video card out of there.

    Flip the "tool-less" holder on the outside of the case, so the
    video card can rise up.

    Get your fingers down near the heel guard, depress the heel
    guard so the card can rise up, while rocking the card back to front
    and ease it upward, all the while keeping the heel guard depressed
    so it does not snag as the card comes up. You can grip the card by
    the faceplate to establish the grounding (for ESD purposes while handling). (Power should be disconnected while doing this.)

    Now that you have the video card out of the way, the CR2032 socket should
    be visible.
    ----
    /____\ <=== battery tucks in at the top

    low point here ==> <=== low point here (could pry up with jewelers screwdriver)

    \-- --/ <=== annoying two snaps won't allow cell to rise
    With a little tension at the low point, "flick"
    your finger nail, pushing the snap downwards.
    It may take a few tries before the cell pops upward
    at the "snaps" end. Really, one snap would have been
    sufficient. Two snaps is "customer abuse".

    So that's how you change the coin cell. Looks like CR2032.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/Rh0Qd3RB/Dell-Optiplex-780-CR2032-cell.jpg

    Paul



    Understood; I bought the rear fan and high sink fan for the 8500 but am
    still looking for one for the 780. I found this but I don't even know
    its the right one.

    https://notebookparts.com/products/dell-optiplex-330-360-740-760-780-120mm-fan-0rr527-rr527?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk4Ck1K-djAMVsRFECB3fZAiwEAQYCCABEgJgAfD_BwE

    In re- reading one of your replies I'm now wondering whether we
    should get a new video card/fan as well for both the 8500 and 780?
    but I don't know the part number without removing the card.

    I found one for the 8500 but it's only a heat sink, no fan

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/334666143077?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=334666143077&targetid=2276391439863&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1014127&poi=&campaignid=21413503890&mkgroupid=165595389564&rlsatarget=pla-
    2276391439863&abcId=9451617&merchantid=108350748&geoid=1014127&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgM2c99acjAMV3SBECB2HRzzAEAYYASABEgJ6JPD_BwE

    I found only one for the 780.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/126154401071?_skw=DELL+OPTIPLEX+780+Video+Card&itmmeta=01JPXVTB02SCX0ZQN1XA3KZR8G&hash=item1d5f63652f%3Ag%3A5lMAAOSwAAZlOWvb&itmprp=enc%
    3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cpoywNcFhyKtyBFUukrwkiGhE5i58FoB4Bm0oWVPZT4Py5VxXnCkMcQPE8u8aGf9Sw2IdK9KJETkClfKgSVJoG1HMA%2FXVcSi5kGc6BbJ9xYA4VW2G0JCOVwA%2FMYaogLLdZIPTIDjN3Fxn38rA8fNqhl5PT%2BBf%2BhmMRId%2FplQr%2FCB6vlhTs%
    2FOFeNF6HoElkF7SUvK1g6ua6S4FocPL7DYRHi6vXyDGafIj%2FV%2Fo%2BYsfmIzkfO717D%2Bz7cKWmxTDd9wvYbiKIMpk%2B2flIHAumoQff%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5qw6bu3ZQ&LH_ItemCondition=3

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Mar 22 03:00:59 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 3/21/2025 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

         Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
    since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm   thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical
                                     The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm  is the square outside dimension. The >>>                                        XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
    The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards
    you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

         Paul



    I guess I missed your post on checking the temp of the CPU.

    https://postimg.cc/18mnvhhB

    I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to remove
    the fan.

    I still have to buy the battery for the 780 and install it. I'll
    let you know.

    Robert

    Your Hardware Monitor might look like this. Use the scroll bar.
    The "snippingtool.exe" can take pictures. If you are not
    running this with your Administrator account, that will hamper
    what the readout can do. That's why yours does not have the
    same rows this one has.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/6p85d9xG/hwmonitor-dell-optiplex-780.gif

    *******

    The two screws that hold the shroud over the CPU, also
    undo the heatsink! The shroud and heatsink are one and the same.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/J0RdL456/Dell-Optiplex-780-Heatsink-Removal.jpg

    After cleaning the AS5 off that, I put some dots of AS5 before
    screwing the shroud back on. May have to wiggle the plastic part
    a little bit, so the two spring-loaded shroud screws, go into
    the screw holes.

    Arctic Silver 5 (listed prices are getting silly now)

    https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb1280/35-100-007-04.jpg

    *******

    To do the battery, you need to move the video card out of there.

    Flip the "tool-less" holder on the outside of the case, so the
    video card can rise up.

    Get your fingers down near the heel guard, depress the heel
    guard so the card can rise up, while rocking the card back to front
    and ease it upward, all the while keeping the heel guard depressed
    so it does not snag as the card comes up. You can grip the card by
    the faceplate to establish the grounding (for ESD purposes while handling). (Power should be disconnected while doing this.)

    Now that you have the video card out of the way, the CR2032 socket should
    be visible.
    ----
    /____\ <=== battery tucks in at the top

    low point here ==> <=== low point here (could pry up with jewelers screwdriver)

    \-- --/ <=== annoying two snaps won't allow cell to rise
    With a little tension at the low point, "flick"
    your finger nail, pushing the snap downwards.
    It may take a few tries before the cell pops upward
    at the "snaps" end. Really, one snap would have been
    sufficient. Two snaps is "customer abuse".

    So that's how you change the coin cell. Looks like CR2032.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/Rh0Qd3RB/Dell-Optiplex-780-CR2032-cell.jpg

    Paul


    I ran it again as Administrator:

    https://postimg.cc/SYLBGLsv

    https://postimg.cc/hJJNYRvx

    https://postimg.cc/4nTNpB2w

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Mar 22 06:46:13 2025
    On Sat, 3/22/2025 6:05 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 3/21/2025 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

          Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
    since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm   thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical >>>>                                   The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm  is the square outside dimension. The
                                            XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
    The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards >>>> you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

          Paul



    I guess I missed your post on checking the temp of the CPU.

    https://postimg.cc/18mnvhhB

    I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to remove
    the fan.

    I still have to buy the battery for the 780 and install it. I'll
    let you know.

    Robert

    Your Hardware Monitor might look like this. Use the scroll bar.
    The "snippingtool.exe" can take pictures. If you are not
    running this with your Administrator account, that will hamper
    what the readout can do. That's why yours does not have the
    same rows this one has.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/6p85d9xG/hwmonitor-dell-optiplex-780.gif

    *******

    The two screws that hold the shroud over the CPU, also
    undo the heatsink! The shroud and heatsink are one and the same.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/J0RdL456/Dell-Optiplex-780-Heatsink-Removal.jpg

    After cleaning the AS5 off that, I put some dots of AS5 before
    screwing the shroud back on. May have to wiggle the plastic part
    a little bit, so the two spring-loaded shroud screws, go into
    the screw holes.

        Arctic Silver 5 (listed prices are getting silly now)

        https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb1280/35-100-007-04.jpg

    *******

    To do the battery, you need to move the video card out of there.

    Flip the "tool-less" holder on the outside of the case, so the
    video card can rise up.

    Get your fingers down near the heel guard, depress the heel
    guard so the card can rise up, while rocking the card back to front
    and ease it upward, all the while keeping the heel guard depressed
    so it does not snag as the card comes up. You can grip the card by
    the faceplate to establish the grounding (for ESD purposes while handling). >> (Power should be disconnected while doing this.)

    Now that you have the video card out of the way, the CR2032 socket should
    be visible.
                          ----
                         /____\  <=== battery tucks in at the top

    low point here ==>           <=== low point here (could pry up with jewelers screwdriver)

                        \--  --/  <=== annoying two snaps won't allow cell to rise
                                       With a little tension at the low point, "flick"
                                       your finger nail, pushing the snap downwards.
                                       It may take a few tries before the cell pops upward
                                       at the "snaps" end. Really, one snap would have been
                                       sufficient. Two snaps is "customer abuse".

    So that's how you change the coin cell. Looks like CR2032.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/Rh0Qd3RB/Dell-Optiplex-780-CR2032-cell.jpg

       Paul



    Understood; I bought the rear fan and high sink fan for the 8500 but am still looking for one for the 780. I found this but I don't even know its the right one.

    https://notebookparts.com/products/dell-optiplex-330-360-740-760-780-120mm-fan-0rr527-rr527?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk4Ck1K-djAMVsRFECB3fZAiwEAQYCCABEgJgAfD_BwE

    In re- reading one of your replies I'm now wondering whether we
    should get a new video card/fan as well for both the 8500 and 780?
    but I don't know the part number without removing the card.

    I found one for the 8500 but it's only a heat sink, no fan

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/334666143077?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=334666143077&targetid=2276391439863&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1014127&poi=&campaignid=21413503890&mkgroupid=165595389564&rlsatarget=
    pla-2276391439863&abcId=9451617&merchantid=108350748&geoid=1014127&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgM2c99acjAMV3SBECB2HRzzAEAYYASABEgJ6JPD_BwE

    I found only one for the 780.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/126154401071?_skw=DELL+OPTIPLEX+780+Video+Card&itmmeta=01JPXVTB02SCX0ZQN1XA3KZR8G&hash=item1d5f63652f%3Ag%3A5lMAAOSwAAZlOWvb&itmprp=enc%
    3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cpoywNcFhyKtyBFUukrwkiGhE5i58FoB4Bm0oWVPZT4Py5VxXnCkMcQPE8u8aGf9Sw2IdK9KJETkClfKgSVJoG1HMA%2FXVcSi5kGc6BbJ9xYA4VW2G0JCOVwA%2FMYaogLLdZIPTIDjN3Fxn38rA8fNqhl5PT%2BBf%2BhmMRId%2FplQr%2FCB6vlhTs%
    2FOFeNF6HoElkF7SUvK1g6ua6S4FocPL7DYRHi6vXyDGafIj%2FV%2Fo%2BYsfmIzkfO717D%2Bz7cKWmxTDd9wvYbiKIMpk%2B2flIHAumoQff%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5qw6bu3ZQ&LH_ItemCondition=3

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert



    The Optiplex 780 CPU cooler might be this one. RR527 for a 780 MT. $15.

    https://www.parts-people.com/index.php?action=item&id=22320&srsltid=AfmBOoogqZT6IM-O_Cfntta4S5fS6ovwyHcsVAynGdCYrnX9Q-6bX28q

    Foxconn
    DC Brushless Fan
    Model:PV123812DSPF 01
    DCI2V 0.90 A

    150CFM

    That's a pretty powerful fan, when flat out.

    *******

    With regard to video cards, it's probably easier to track down
    the entire video card, rather than just the fan.

    Arctic Cooling, used to make replacement/aftermarket coolers
    for video cards, when the cards have standard footprints
    (holes placed in the correct places). But they may be out of
    business now, so no longer a source of good options like that.

    That's a problem, when it amounts to your business activity
    is "specialty items". With very low volumes, you can hardly
    make payroll on an average week. It's not a surprise the
    companies disappear.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Mar 22 20:10:15 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 3/22/2025 6:05 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 3/21/2025 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

          Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems >>>>>> since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm   thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical >>>>>                                   The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm  is the square outside dimension. The
                                            XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section. >>>>> The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards >>>>> you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

          Paul



    I guess I missed your post on checking the temp of the CPU.

    https://postimg.cc/18mnvhhB

    I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to remove
    the fan.

    I still have to buy the battery for the 780 and install it. I'll
    let you know.

    Robert

    Your Hardware Monitor might look like this. Use the scroll bar.
    The "snippingtool.exe" can take pictures. If you are not
    running this with your Administrator account, that will hamper
    what the readout can do. That's why yours does not have the
    same rows this one has.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/6p85d9xG/hwmonitor-dell-optiplex-780.gif

    *******

    The two screws that hold the shroud over the CPU, also
    undo the heatsink! The shroud and heatsink are one and the same.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/J0RdL456/Dell-Optiplex-780-Heatsink-Removal.jpg

    After cleaning the AS5 off that, I put some dots of AS5 before
    screwing the shroud back on. May have to wiggle the plastic part
    a little bit, so the two spring-loaded shroud screws, go into
    the screw holes.

        Arctic Silver 5 (listed prices are getting silly now)

        https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb1280/35-100-007-04.jpg >>>
    *******

    To do the battery, you need to move the video card out of there.

    Flip the "tool-less" holder on the outside of the case, so the
    video card can rise up.

    Get your fingers down near the heel guard, depress the heel
    guard so the card can rise up, while rocking the card back to front
    and ease it upward, all the while keeping the heel guard depressed
    so it does not snag as the card comes up. You can grip the card by
    the faceplate to establish the grounding (for ESD purposes while handling). >>> (Power should be disconnected while doing this.)

    Now that you have the video card out of the way, the CR2032 socket should >>> be visible.
                          ----
                         /____\  <=== battery tucks in at the top

    low point here ==>           <=== low point here (could pry up with jewelers screwdriver)

                        \--  --/  <=== annoying two snaps won't allow cell to rise
                                       With a little tension at the low point, "flick"
                                       your finger nail, pushing the snap downwards.
                                       It may take a few tries before the cell pops upward
                                       at the "snaps" end. Really, one snap would have been
                                       sufficient. Two snaps is "customer abuse".

    So that's how you change the coin cell. Looks like CR2032.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/Rh0Qd3RB/Dell-Optiplex-780-CR2032-cell.jpg >>>
       Paul



    Understood; I bought the rear fan and high sink fan for the 8500 but am still looking for one for the 780. I found this but I don't even know its the right one.

    https://notebookparts.com/products/dell-optiplex-330-360-740-760-780-120mm-fan-0rr527-rr527?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk4Ck1K-djAMVsRFECB3fZAiwEAQYCCABEgJgAfD_BwE

    In re- reading one of your replies I'm now wondering whether we
    should get a new video card/fan as well for both the 8500 and 780?
    but I don't know the part number without removing the card.

    I found one for the 8500 but it's only a heat sink, no fan

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/334666143077?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=334666143077&targetid=2276391439863&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1014127&poi=&campaignid=21413503890&mkgroupid=165595389564&rlsatarget=
    pla-2276391439863&abcId=9451617&merchantid=108350748&geoid=1014127&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgM2c99acjAMV3SBECB2HRzzAEAYYASABEgJ6JPD_BwE

    I found only one for the 780.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/126154401071?_skw=DELL+OPTIPLEX+780+Video+Card&itmmeta=01JPXVTB02SCX0ZQN1XA3KZR8G&hash=item1d5f63652f%3Ag%3A5lMAAOSwAAZlOWvb&itmprp=enc%
    3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cpoywNcFhyKtyBFUukrwkiGhE5i58FoB4Bm0oWVPZT4Py5VxXnCkMcQPE8u8aGf9Sw2IdK9KJETkClfKgSVJoG1HMA%2FXVcSi5kGc6BbJ9xYA4VW2G0JCOVwA%2FMYaogLLdZIPTIDjN3Fxn38rA8fNqhl5PT%2BBf%2BhmMRId%2FplQr%2FCB6vlhTs%
    2FOFeNF6HoElkF7SUvK1g6ua6S4FocPL7DYRHi6vXyDGafIj%2FV%2Fo%2BYsfmIzkfO717D%2Bz7cKWmxTDd9wvYbiKIMpk%2B2flIHAumoQff%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5qw6bu3ZQ&LH_ItemCondition=3

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert



    The Optiplex 780 CPU cooler might be this one. RR527 for a 780 MT. $15.

    https://www.parts-people.com/index.php?action=item&id=22320&srsltid=AfmBOoogqZT6IM-O_Cfntta4S5fS6ovwyHcsVAynGdCYrnX9Q-6bX28q

    Foxconn
    DC Brushless Fan
    Model:PV123812DSPF 01
    DCI2V 0.90 A

    150CFM

    That's a pretty powerful fan, when flat out.

    *******

    With regard to video cards, it's probably easier to track down
    the entire video card, rather than just the fan.

    Arctic Cooling, used to make replacement/aftermarket coolers
    for video cards, when the cards have standard footprints
    (holes placed in the correct places). But they may be out of
    business now, so no longer a source of good options like that.

    That's a problem, when it amounts to your business activity
    is "specialty items". With very low volumes, you can hardly
    make payroll on an average week. It's not a surprise the
    companies disappear.

    Paul



    p.s. I meant AS5 of course

    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Mar 22 20:07:30 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 3/22/2025 6:05 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 3/21/2025 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

          Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems >>>>>> since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm   thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical >>>>>                                   The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm  is the square outside dimension. The
                                            XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section. >>>>> The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards >>>>> you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

          Paul



    I guess I missed your post on checking the temp of the CPU.

    https://postimg.cc/18mnvhhB

    I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to remove
    the fan.

    I still have to buy the battery for the 780 and install it. I'll
    let you know.

    Robert

    Your Hardware Monitor might look like this. Use the scroll bar.
    The "snippingtool.exe" can take pictures. If you are not
    running this with your Administrator account, that will hamper
    what the readout can do. That's why yours does not have the
    same rows this one has.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/6p85d9xG/hwmonitor-dell-optiplex-780.gif

    *******

    The two screws that hold the shroud over the CPU, also
    undo the heatsink! The shroud and heatsink are one and the same.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/J0RdL456/Dell-Optiplex-780-Heatsink-Removal.jpg

    After cleaning the AS5 off that, I put some dots of AS5 before
    screwing the shroud back on. May have to wiggle the plastic part
    a little bit, so the two spring-loaded shroud screws, go into
    the screw holes.

        Arctic Silver 5 (listed prices are getting silly now)

        https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb1280/35-100-007-04.jpg >>>
    *******

    To do the battery, you need to move the video card out of there.

    Flip the "tool-less" holder on the outside of the case, so the
    video card can rise up.

    Get your fingers down near the heel guard, depress the heel
    guard so the card can rise up, while rocking the card back to front
    and ease it upward, all the while keeping the heel guard depressed
    so it does not snag as the card comes up. You can grip the card by
    the faceplate to establish the grounding (for ESD purposes while handling). >>> (Power should be disconnected while doing this.)

    Now that you have the video card out of the way, the CR2032 socket should >>> be visible.
                          ----
                         /____\  <=== battery tucks in at the top

    low point here ==>           <=== low point here (could pry up with jewelers screwdriver)

                        \--  --/  <=== annoying two snaps won't allow cell to rise
                                       With a little tension at the low point, "flick"
                                       your finger nail, pushing the snap downwards.
                                       It may take a few tries before the cell pops upward
                                       at the "snaps" end. Really, one snap would have been
                                       sufficient. Two snaps is "customer abuse".

    So that's how you change the coin cell. Looks like CR2032.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/Rh0Qd3RB/Dell-Optiplex-780-CR2032-cell.jpg >>>
       Paul



    Understood; I bought the rear fan and high sink fan for the 8500 but am still looking for one for the 780. I found this but I don't even know its the right one.

    https://notebookparts.com/products/dell-optiplex-330-360-740-760-780-120mm-fan-0rr527-rr527?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk4Ck1K-djAMVsRFECB3fZAiwEAQYCCABEgJgAfD_BwE

    In re- reading one of your replies I'm now wondering whether we
    should get a new video card/fan as well for both the 8500 and 780?
    but I don't know the part number without removing the card.

    I found one for the 8500 but it's only a heat sink, no fan

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/334666143077?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=334666143077&targetid=2276391439863&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1014127&poi=&campaignid=21413503890&mkgroupid=165595389564&rlsatarget=
    pla-2276391439863&abcId=9451617&merchantid=108350748&geoid=1014127&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgM2c99acjAMV3SBECB2HRzzAEAYYASABEgJ6JPD_BwE

    I found only one for the 780.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/126154401071?_skw=DELL+OPTIPLEX+780+Video+Card&itmmeta=01JPXVTB02SCX0ZQN1XA3KZR8G&hash=item1d5f63652f%3Ag%3A5lMAAOSwAAZlOWvb&itmprp=enc%
    3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cpoywNcFhyKtyBFUukrwkiGhE5i58FoB4Bm0oWVPZT4Py5VxXnCkMcQPE8u8aGf9Sw2IdK9KJETkClfKgSVJoG1HMA%2FXVcSi5kGc6BbJ9xYA4VW2G0JCOVwA%2FMYaogLLdZIPTIDjN3Fxn38rA8fNqhl5PT%2BBf%2BhmMRId%2FplQr%2FCB6vlhTs%
    2FOFeNF6HoElkF7SUvK1g6ua6S4FocPL7DYRHi6vXyDGafIj%2FV%2Fo%2BYsfmIzkfO717D%2Bz7cKWmxTDd9wvYbiKIMpk%2B2flIHAumoQff%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5qw6bu3ZQ&LH_ItemCondition=3

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert



    The Optiplex 780 CPU cooler might be this one. RR527 for a 780 MT. $15.

    https://www.parts-people.com/index.php?action=item&id=22320&srsltid=AfmBOoogqZT6IM-O_Cfntta4S5fS6ovwyHcsVAynGdCYrnX9Q-6bX28q

    Foxconn
    DC Brushless Fan
    Model:PV123812DSPF 01
    DCI2V 0.90 A

    150CFM

    That's a pretty powerful fan, when flat out.

    *******

    With regard to video cards, it's probably easier to track down
    the entire video card, rather than just the fan.

    Arctic Cooling, used to make replacement/aftermarket coolers
    for video cards, when the cards have standard footprints
    (holes placed in the correct places). But they may be out of
    business now, so no longer a source of good options like that.

    That's a problem, when it amounts to your business activity
    is "specialty items". With very low volumes, you can hardly
    make payroll on an average week. It's not a surprise the
    companies disappear.

    Paul



    Thanks for finding a fan for the 780 for me. I appreciate it.

    I agree, I meant getting new video cards with fans. for both
    computers but they are damn hard to find.

    I did order some SP5 thermal paste:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/396222721010?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1LX_mFCkWRCm1-IPk7pZ4jg13&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=396222721010&targetid=2319404999269&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1014127&poi=&
    campaignid=21222256297&mkgroupid=167054596991&rlsatarget=aud-1297930287338:pla-2319404999269&abcId=9408285&merchantid=6296724&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIicm43YSdjAMVKihECB1XQA5LEAQYAiABEgJVIPD_BwE

    I put the battery in the 780 without taking the video card
    out using tweezers but the year/date is all messed up. Oddly,
    the 8500 came up with the Admin Account when I booted.

    I checked the 780 BIOS before replacing the battery.

    https://postimg.cc/q68ccnhg

    However after I changed the battery, during the startup I received
    this message on the 780 saying the battery is low. It looks like I need
    to get a new CR2032. So I won't change the date/time yet.

    https://postimg.cc/CzsHzGpQ

    I hit F1 to continue but I should of run F2 next time to go into
    the BIOS and change the year/date.

    While I had the 780 open, I checked out the fan and it appears its
    separate from the black heatsink cover, not one piece but it's butted
    up next to it. It seems it may be held there with slotted hinges?

    https://postimg.cc/GHgPFc9F

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Mar 23 12:47:59 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 3/22/2025 6:05 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 3/21/2025 11:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

          Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems >>>>>> since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm   thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical >>>>>                                   The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm  is the square outside dimension. The
                                            XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section. >>>>> The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards >>>>> you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

          Paul



    I guess I missed your post on checking the temp of the CPU.

    https://postimg.cc/18mnvhhB

    I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to remove
    the fan.

    I still have to buy the battery for the 780 and install it. I'll
    let you know.

    Robert

    Your Hardware Monitor might look like this. Use the scroll bar.
    The "snippingtool.exe" can take pictures. If you are not
    running this with your Administrator account, that will hamper
    what the readout can do. That's why yours does not have the
    same rows this one has.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/6p85d9xG/hwmonitor-dell-optiplex-780.gif

    *******

    The two screws that hold the shroud over the CPU, also
    undo the heatsink! The shroud and heatsink are one and the same.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/J0RdL456/Dell-Optiplex-780-Heatsink-Removal.jpg

    After cleaning the AS5 off that, I put some dots of AS5 before
    screwing the shroud back on. May have to wiggle the plastic part
    a little bit, so the two spring-loaded shroud screws, go into
    the screw holes.

        Arctic Silver 5 (listed prices are getting silly now)

        https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb1280/35-100-007-04.jpg >>>
    *******

    To do the battery, you need to move the video card out of there.

    Flip the "tool-less" holder on the outside of the case, so the
    video card can rise up.

    Get your fingers down near the heel guard, depress the heel
    guard so the card can rise up, while rocking the card back to front
    and ease it upward, all the while keeping the heel guard depressed
    so it does not snag as the card comes up. You can grip the card by
    the faceplate to establish the grounding (for ESD purposes while handling). >>> (Power should be disconnected while doing this.)

    Now that you have the video card out of the way, the CR2032 socket should >>> be visible.
                          ----
                         /____\  <=== battery tucks in at the top

    low point here ==>           <=== low point here (could pry up with jewelers screwdriver)

                        \--  --/  <=== annoying two snaps won't allow cell to rise
                                       With a little tension at the low point, "flick"
                                       your finger nail, pushing the snap downwards.
                                       It may take a few tries before the cell pops upward
                                       at the "snaps" end. Really, one snap would have been
                                       sufficient. Two snaps is "customer abuse".

    So that's how you change the coin cell. Looks like CR2032.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/Rh0Qd3RB/Dell-Optiplex-780-CR2032-cell.jpg >>>
       Paul



    Understood; I bought the rear fan and high sink fan for the 8500 but am still looking for one for the 780. I found this but I don't even know its the right one.

    https://notebookparts.com/products/dell-optiplex-330-360-740-760-780-120mm-fan-0rr527-rr527?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk4Ck1K-djAMVsRFECB3fZAiwEAQYCCABEgJgAfD_BwE

    In re- reading one of your replies I'm now wondering whether we
    should get a new video card/fan as well for both the 8500 and 780?
    but I don't know the part number without removing the card.

    I found one for the 8500 but it's only a heat sink, no fan

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/334666143077?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=334666143077&targetid=2276391439863&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1014127&poi=&campaignid=21413503890&mkgroupid=165595389564&rlsatarget=
    pla-2276391439863&abcId=9451617&merchantid=108350748&geoid=1014127&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgM2c99acjAMV3SBECB2HRzzAEAYYASABEgJ6JPD_BwE

    I found only one for the 780.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/126154401071?_skw=DELL+OPTIPLEX+780+Video+Card&itmmeta=01JPXVTB02SCX0ZQN1XA3KZR8G&hash=item1d5f63652f%3Ag%3A5lMAAOSwAAZlOWvb&itmprp=enc%
    3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cpoywNcFhyKtyBFUukrwkiGhE5i58FoB4Bm0oWVPZT4Py5VxXnCkMcQPE8u8aGf9Sw2IdK9KJETkClfKgSVJoG1HMA%2FXVcSi5kGc6BbJ9xYA4VW2G0JCOVwA%2FMYaogLLdZIPTIDjN3Fxn38rA8fNqhl5PT%2BBf%2BhmMRId%2FplQr%2FCB6vlhTs%
    2FOFeNF6HoElkF7SUvK1g6ua6S4FocPL7DYRHi6vXyDGafIj%2FV%2Fo%2BYsfmIzkfO717D%2Bz7cKWmxTDd9wvYbiKIMpk%2B2flIHAumoQff%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5qw6bu3ZQ&LH_ItemCondition=3

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert



    The Optiplex 780 CPU cooler might be this one. RR527 for a 780 MT. $15.

    https://www.parts-people.com/index.php?action=item&id=22320&srsltid=AfmBOoogqZT6IM-O_Cfntta4S5fS6ovwyHcsVAynGdCYrnX9Q-6bX28q

    Foxconn
    DC Brushless Fan
    Model:PV123812DSPF 01
    DCI2V 0.90 A

    150CFM

    That's a pretty powerful fan, when flat out.

    *******

    With regard to video cards, it's probably easier to track down
    the entire video card, rather than just the fan.

    Arctic Cooling, used to make replacement/aftermarket coolers
    for video cards, when the cards have standard footprints
    (holes placed in the correct places). But they may be out of
    business now, so no longer a source of good options like that.

    That's a problem, when it amounts to your business activity
    is "specialty items". With very low volumes, you can hardly
    make payroll on an average week. It's not a surprise the
    companies disappear.

    Paul



    I bought a new CR2032 battery and installed it in the 780 and changed
    the year/date and checked that the boot sequence hadn't changed. So all
    is good. I checked the 780 fan again and it seems like I need to remove
    the cover and heat sink to access the fan.

    Robert


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Mon Mar 24 01:57:23 2025
    On Sat, 3/22/2025 2:37 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I hope I don't have to remove the heat sink on the 780 to access
    and remove the fan. I found instructions on how to remove the fan on page 58 but it doesn't show the cover piece except at the beginning inset.

    https://dl.dell.com/manuals/all-products/esuprt_desktop/esuprt_optiplex_desktop/optiplex-780_service%20manual2_en-us.pdf

    I searched found some AS5 thermal paste.


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/396222721010

    and I can use simple green or  isopropyl alcohol to clean it.

    I know what you mean about getting things off/on....


    Robert

    The AS5 is what I happen to use. There are other brands. The bad
    ones are like crumbly cookie dough, and those are hard to apply.

    There is an AS5 web page, with instructions on paste application
    for the various shapes of processor lids.

    Just watch that you're not paying too much for AS5. There are 3.5 gram
    and 12 gram tubes, and maybe currently a 12 gram tube is $20 or so.
    I've also seen offers for $100, which is an unnecessary level of profit.

    The heatsink (which covers the CPU) does have to come off, to replace
    the fan that sits behind it. And that means the CPU will be exposed
    while you are working. Notice that, in the manual, the CPU (and its paste)
    are exposed in the pictures in the fan removal procedure. They don't tell
    you to remove the heatsink (the procedure for that is later in your
    example of a manual). There is an assumption you know it has to come off.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Mon Mar 24 02:48:42 2025
    On Sat, 3/22/2025 11:07 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Thanks for finding a fan for the 780 for me. I appreciate it.

    I agree, I meant getting new video cards with fans. for both
    computers but they are damn hard to find.

    I did order some SP5 thermal paste:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/396222721010

    I put the battery in the 780 without taking the video card
    out using tweezers but the year/date is all messed up. Oddly,
    the 8500 came up with the Admin Account when I booted.

    I checked the 780 BIOS before replacing the battery.

    https://postimg.cc/q68ccnhg

    However after I changed the battery, during the startup I received
    this message on the 780 saying the battery is low. It looks like I need
    to get a new CR2032. So I won't change the date/time yet.

    https://postimg.cc/CzsHzGpQ

    I hit F1 to continue but I should of run F2 next time to go into
    the BIOS and change the year/date.

    While I had the 780 open, I checked out the fan and it appears its
    separate from the black heatsink cover, not one piece but it's butted
    up next to it. It seems it may be held there with slotted hinges?

    https://postimg.cc/GHgPFc9F

    Thoughts/suggestions?
    Robert

    When you look at the battery, the (+) sign should be on the
    top surface. The minus goes down, the plus goes up. The
    electrode in the center of the socket, is for the minus side.

    If you set a multimeter to volts, the top surface of the
    battery (with the plus sign), it measures 3.31V with respect
    to the chassis (ground) metal. That tells you the battery
    that is inserted, is fresh and brand new.

    When you buy a CR2032, there is a plastic sticker on the minus terminal.
    You peel off the plastic sticker, before fitting the battery. Both
    metal surfaces, the smaller minus and the overall plus, should both
    be free and clear of obstructions.

    *******

    I don't think it is a given, that the Foxconn fan can be removed
    without removing the shroud and heatsink two screws. Maybe you can figure
    out a way to work in such a confined space, but I don't think the odds are
    very good of that working.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Mon Mar 24 02:55:41 2025
    On Sun, 3/23/2025 3:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I bought a new CR2032 battery and installed it in the 780 and changed
    the year/date and checked that the boot sequence hadn't changed. So all
    is good. I checked the 780 fan again and it seems like I need to remove
    the cover and heat sink to access the fan.

    Robert

    In Windows 10, if you go

    Start : Run : "control"

    the control.exe executable provides the old "Control Panels".
    You can pin that to the Task Bar if you like, for next time.

    In the Control Panels, is the "Date and Time" item. click that and run it.

    The third tab over, is "Internet Time".

    There is a "Change Settings" button. Use that.

    The tick box for "Synchronize with an Internet time server" should be ticked. The server address can be set to "time.windows.com". There is an "Update Now" button. This will correct the time you have entered, to around 1 second accuracy.

    The time must be set accurately, for things like Windows Update
    to work properly.

    Paul

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Mon Mar 24 02:35:37 2025
    On Sat, 3/22/2025 2:48 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 3/20/2025 3:24 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/19/2025 4:43 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/18/2025 6:29 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    I opened up the 8500 again and removed the fan
    from the heat sink and cleaned it as best I could.

    https://postimg.cc/grMKNbcD

    https://postimg.cc/94td9vNy

    https://postimg.cc/dk5GHGF1

    Robert

    I think you've earned your Good HouseKeeping Badge :-)

    That should help a bit.

          Paul



    Thanks, I appreciate it,..

    Even though both computers run dead silent how do I know if
    a fan fails? Will I get a error message? Maybe it would be a
    good idea to replace the fans but you said they don't make the
    5 pins anymore?

    Now that you have the specs on the 8500 fan is it possible to buy
    a 3 or 4 pin fan and a 5 adaptor cable?

    I was also thinking about getting a fan for the heat sink.

    Should I replace the battery in the 780? I haven't had any problems
    since that message.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    Normally, when the fan RPM signal goes missing (no pulses),
    the machine stops when booting and presents a message that
    it is entering the BIOS. You would then need to see the
    hardware monitor entry in the BIOS menu, to see what the
    measured speed is (zero or say 1425 RPM).

    When the machine is running, if the CPU fan stops spinning
    and the heatsink gets hot, THERMTRIP turns off the PSU power.
    It may require unplugging and plugging the mains power again,
    before the PC will attempt to start. Then if it THERMTRIPs
    again, it shuts off the power supply itself. For fan
    failures on chassis cooling, the response is less abrupt
    and it is more possible to damage something. For example, if
    the fan fails on a video card, that can "cook" the GPU and
    the video card may no longer present a correct image. But at
    least for the CPU, that's reasonably well protected during runtime.

    *******

    The XPS 8500 could have a three pin connector on it, if that
    is the CPU fan. The Optiplex 780 may have a five pin connector,
    but only four wires are installed in it. That could be
    the five pin fan in that case, the fan having the four wires
    and one location on the connector is a key.

    The XPS 8500 is more likely to be an attempt at an industry
    standard fan. Replacing it with a 37 CFM fan and fitting
    the cable to the three pin, should be enough for that one.

    Industry standard fans, have a few dimensions as options.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm   thickness, the middle one (one inch) is typical >>>>                                   The 37.5 one can move more air.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm  is the square outside dimension. The
                                            XPS 8500 CPU fan could be a 92mm.

    The general categories are Low, Medium, High, Ultra, and
    the 37CFM XPS 8500 is a Medium, more or less.

    For some brands of fan, it's harder to get the CFM number
    (cubic feet per minute), but you need that to figure out
    whether it's a replacement or not.

    You will notice the Dell fan, has a five letter part number
    on it, and you can Google that for replacements.

    *******

    The Dell schemes just add an extra layer of aggravation.
    You can see the Optiplex 780 fan pinout, nearer to the bottom
    and on the left. "DELL FAN WIRES AND COLORS"

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/precision-fixed-workstations/replace-fans-in-power-supply/647f9118f4ccf8a8de27fc81

    *******

    Yes, you can replace the Optiplex 780 CMOS battery (coin cell).
    The most likely place in the BIOS interface, needing correction
    later, will be switching on the SATA ports in the SATA drive section.
    The Dell isn't flexible like other motherboards. On other motherboards >>>> you just turn on all the SATA interfaces, and any time a drive is
    detected, it is available in a boot menu. On the Optiplex 780,
    you only turn on the drives that have storage devices connected.
    If the machine has one optical drive and one hard drive, then two
    SATA ports should be enabled at BIOS level, to match. After the
    battery is fitted, those need to be enabled again. Then you can
    work on your boot order, after that detail is correct.

          Paul


    I did some searches for the 8500 rear fan and
    I found this:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/113091985003

    I also did searches for the heat sink fan

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/186382890448

    What do you think?
    Robert

    As long as they match the Dell part number, they should be fine.
    The Dell part number on the fans at least, should be on the
    hub sticker.

    I don't know how you get the five pin (four wires plus keying pin)
    off the Dell Optiplex 780. There's a tab on the side
    of it, but it is not clear what you do with the tab,
    to make the connector release.

    That's one of the problems with messing around with
    this stuff. The undocumented proprietary stuff (like
    putting the wires in the wrong order), that's the kind
    of stuff I don't enjoy.

    And before you take the Intel heatsink off your processor,
    it would help to at least have a tube of AS5 or similar.
    And maybe some "cleaner/purifier", anything that makes
    cleanup of the heatsink surface easier. Ordinary thermal paste
    cleans off easily, compared to the phase change stuff that
    has to be scraped off. The phase change becomes "plastic"
    and "flows" when it is heated up.

    At my computer store, there is an ashtray next to the cash,
    and it has the small-size tubes of AS5 in it.

    My first tube of thermal paste (AS3?), lasted around 15 years :-)
    I guess I'm just not adventurous enough. I now have the
    big tube of AS5.

    Some of my heatsinks here, are more of a challenge than the Dell.
    For those, you get both hands underneath them, and feel
    the screw and mount point with a finger, in an attempt
    to line them up. You muscles will be aching after ten
    minutes of the damn screw thread not picking up, after
    repeated attempts to start it. That's the fun of
    messing with heatsinks. Or when I re-greased a video card,
    having the thing slide around while I'm trying to get the
    screws into it. This stuff is loads of fun, no matter
    how many times you practice assembly with the heatsink
    dry (no paste on it, while you practice).

        Paul



    I checked the CPU temp on the 8500:

    https://postimg.cc/zHgjJLJq

    https://postimg.cc/CBZCNZnb

    Robert

    You may have to run that utility as Administrator,
    to get the CPU temperature listed. It's like the
    same situation on your 780 -- needs Administrator account
    to get CPU temp listed.

    *******

    Your video card is at 60C, and that could be because
    it is a passive and just has a heatsink but no fan.

    The policy on an NVidia card, is some designs allow the
    fan to stop spinning, at lower temperatures. The fan only
    spins when the GPU hits 60C. In your table of values,
    you can see the fan PWM is exactly 40% at 60C, and it
    is starting to increase (PWM value higher than 40%), for
    the one recorded temp where it was above 60C. This means
    at the moment, the card is right on the edge of needing
    to bump up the fan (if a fan existed).

    On a passive video card, there can still be a fan header,
    or at least, a fan PWM signal, even if the signal has nothing
    to drive.

    There is no particular reason to panic there.

    But I should tell you, I owned two passively cooled video
    cards, ones priced similar to yours, and one used to crash
    when the temperature went up, and the other one was fine
    with hotter than 60C temperatures. As long as the machine
    is not crashing, it is likely OK. Note that video cards
    do not protect themselves against cooling issues -- for example,
    if the heatsink screws somehow came loose and the heatsink
    fell off, the GPU promptly "cooks" and won't work any more.
    There is no THERMTRIP like Intel puts on your CPU to protect it.
    The GPU is likely "officially" good to 99C. The simulation
    temperature used to verify the design, could be 105C or 110C,
    so the logic is supposed to keep functioning to temperatures
    like that.

    Paul

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Mar 24 03:47:54 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 3/23/2025 3:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I bought a new CR2032 battery and installed it in the 780 and changed
    the year/date and checked that the boot sequence hadn't changed. So all
    is good. I checked the 780 fan again and it seems like I need to remove
    the cover and heat sink to access the fan.

    Robert

    In Windows 10, if you go

    Start : Run : "control"

    the control.exe executable provides the old "Control Panels".
    You can pin that to the Task Bar if you like, for next time.

    In the Control Panels, is the "Date and Time" item. click that and run it.

    The third tab over, is "Internet Time".

    There is a "Change Settings" button. Use that.

    The tick box for "Synchronize with an Internet time server" should be ticked. The server address can be set to "time.windows.com". There is an "Update Now" button. This will correct the time you have entered, to around 1 second accuracy.

    The time must be set accurately, for things like Windows Update
    to work properly.

    Paul



    I forgot about resetting the time on Win 10,... I'm glad you gave me instructions. I wouldn't of known how to do it myself.

    I switched over to Win10 and followed your instructions.

    https://postimg.cc/ZChLmYvL

    Thanks,
    Robert


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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Mar 24 04:07:31 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 3/23/2025 3:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I bought a new CR2032 battery and installed it in the 780 and changed
    the year/date and checked that the boot sequence hadn't changed. So all
    is good. I checked the 780 fan again and it seems like I need to remove
    the cover and heat sink to access the fan.

    Robert

    In Windows 10, if you go

    Start : Run : "control"

    the control.exe executable provides the old "Control Panels".
    You can pin that to the Task Bar if you like, for next time.

    In the Control Panels, is the "Date and Time" item. click that and run it.

    The third tab over, is "Internet Time".

    There is a "Change Settings" button. Use that.

    The tick box for "Synchronize with an Internet time server" should be ticked. The server address can be set to "time.windows.com". There is an "Update Now" button. This will correct the time you have entered, to around 1 second accuracy.

    The time must be set accurately, for things like Windows Update
    to work properly.

    Paul




    I noticed my malwarebytes score had dropped I went into settings but
    all the settings are for premium. Is there anything I can do to improve
    it short of paying?

    https://postimg.cc/BtPYMmRP

    https://postimg.cc/B8vNDpx6

    https://postimg.cc/14KHWbJt

    Thanks,
    Robert





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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Mon Mar 24 20:38:51 2025
    On Mon, 3/24/2025 7:07 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 3/23/2025 3:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I bought a new CR2032 battery and installed it in the 780 and changed
    the year/date and checked that the boot sequence hadn't changed. So all
    is good. I checked the 780 fan again and it seems like I need to remove
    the cover and heat sink to access the fan.

    Robert

    In Windows 10, if you go

       Start : Run : "control"

    the control.exe executable provides the old "Control Panels".
    You can pin that to the Task Bar if you like, for next time.

    In the Control Panels, is the "Date and Time" item. click that and run it. >>
    The third tab over, is "Internet Time".

    There is a "Change Settings" button. Use that.

    The tick box for "Synchronize with an Internet time server" should be ticked.
    The server address can be set to "time.windows.com". There is an "Update Now"
    button. This will correct the time you have entered, to around 1 second
    accuracy.

    The time must be set accurately, for things like Windows Update
    to work properly.

        Paul




    I noticed my malwarebytes score had dropped  I went into settings but
    all the settings are for premium. Is there anything I can do to improve it short of paying?

    https://postimg.cc/BtPYMmRP

    https://postimg.cc/B8vNDpx6

    https://postimg.cc/14KHWbJt

    Thanks,
    Robert

    In the first picture, what does that score mean ?
    I see the background is the Windows 7 background image.
    Windows 7 may or may not have a real time protection
    running on it at the moment.

    The free version of Malwarebytes, is an on-demand scanner, it
    is not a real-time scanner.

    How would the program be measuring your machine ? What is the
    measurement process ? (Looking at the "items" to the left, I don't
    see how that yields a 72% score.)

    *******

    Windows 10 has Windows Defender, which will work until at least October 2025. That's about it for machines that don't have sufficient materials for
    Windows 11.

    I tested a Windows 11 Upgrade on the 780, and it refuses because the
    780 does not have the Population Count (POPCNT) instruction. So that won't work.
    That would give another way to get Windows Defender for a period of time.

    Windows 11 might install on the XPS 8500, but that's a pretty old processor
    (no MBEC support), so it might be a bit slow.

    https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/65523/intel-core-i73770k-processor-8m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz/specifications.html

    This machine is about the same vintage as the XPS 8500,
    and it has a GPT disk layout. That made putting windows 11 on
    here a bit easier. This machine has no TPM and no MBEC.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/d07kBs9T/W11-Home-on-4930-K-X79.gif

    *******

    If you pay for Malwarebytes, you won't be using all the features,
    and it would be mainly for real-time protection.

    You would have to find some information on how long Malwarebytes
    would protect Windows 7, in its realtime protection mode.

    https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360039021313-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4-support-for-Windows-7

    "Malwarebytes for Windows v4 -- support for Windows 7

    Malwarebytes for Windows version 4 is committed to continue support for Windows 7
    for as long as Microsoft allows us to. This stand means that we'll continue
    offering our core anti-malware protection to the best of our ability, given
    technical limitations. For more information surrounding these limitations,
    please refer to the following Malwarebytes Frequently Asked Questions.
    "
    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Mar 24 22:23:41 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 3/24/2025 7:07 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 3/23/2025 3:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I bought a new CR2032 battery and installed it in the 780 and changed
    the year/date and checked that the boot sequence hadn't changed. So all >>>> is good. I checked the 780 fan again and it seems like I need to remove >>>> the cover and heat sink to access the fan.

    Robert

    In Windows 10, if you go

       Start : Run : "control"

    the control.exe executable provides the old "Control Panels".
    You can pin that to the Task Bar if you like, for next time.

    In the Control Panels, is the "Date and Time" item. click that and run it. >>>
    The third tab over, is "Internet Time".

    There is a "Change Settings" button. Use that.

    The tick box for "Synchronize with an Internet time server" should be ticked.
    The server address can be set to "time.windows.com". There is an "Update Now"
    button. This will correct the time you have entered, to around 1 second
    accuracy.

    The time must be set accurately, for things like Windows Update
    to work properly.

        Paul




    I noticed my malwarebytes score had dropped  I went into settings but
    all the settings are for premium. Is there anything I can do to improve it short of paying?

    https://postimg.cc/BtPYMmRP

    https://postimg.cc/B8vNDpx6

    https://postimg.cc/14KHWbJt

    Thanks,
    Robert

    In the first picture, what does that score mean ?
    I see the background is the Windows 7 background image.
    Windows 7 may or may not have a real time protection
    running on it at the moment.

    The free version of Malwarebytes, is an on-demand scanner, it
    is not a real-time scanner.

    How would the program be measuring your machine ? What is the
    measurement process ? (Looking at the "items" to the left, I don't
    see how that yields a 72% score.)

    *******

    Windows 10 has Windows Defender, which will work until at least October 2025. That's about it for machines that don't have sufficient materials for
    Windows 11.

    I tested a Windows 11 Upgrade on the 780, and it refuses because the
    780 does not have the Population Count (POPCNT) instruction. So that won't work.
    That would give another way to get Windows Defender for a period of time.

    Windows 11 might install on the XPS 8500, but that's a pretty old processor (no MBEC support), so it might be a bit slow.

    https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/65523/intel-core-i73770k-processor-8m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz/specifications.html

    This machine is about the same vintage as the XPS 8500,
    and it has a GPT disk layout. That made putting windows 11 on
    here a bit easier. This machine has no TPM and no MBEC.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/d07kBs9T/W11-Home-on-4930-K-X79.gif

    *******

    If you pay for Malwarebytes, you won't be using all the features,
    and it would be mainly for real-time protection.

    You would have to find some information on how long Malwarebytes
    would protect Windows 7, in its realtime protection mode.

    https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360039021313-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4-support-for-Windows-7

    "Malwarebytes for Windows v4 -- support for Windows 7

    Malwarebytes for Windows version 4 is committed to continue support for Windows 7
    for as long as Microsoft allows us to. This stand means that we'll continue
    offering our core anti-malware protection to the best of our ability, given
    technical limitations. For more information surrounding these limitations,
    please refer to the following Malwarebytes Frequently Asked Questions.
    "
    Paul


    Exactly,.. what does that score mean? It use to be 90%. on the 780 and
    the 8500 was 82
    but all of a sudden they dropped to 72. Do you think this is a marketing
    ploy ?

    780 present

    https://postimg.cc/bG7j2LNb


    780 before

    https://postimg.cc/vg5w79cK

    8500 present

    https://postimg.cc/4H5Cqgvb

    8500 before

    https://postimg.cc/vDLcbx3X



    I thought I had Windows Defender on the computer but I checked the
    Control Panel
    for installed programs and it's not there. I also checked my downloads
    folder and I don't have it. Could you please give me a link for Windows Defender?

    Hmmmm I'm trying to understand. You mean the only real time protection I
    have for the computers is Windows Defender and your suggestion I change
    the OS from Win 7 to Win 11?

    Is there no other way for real time protection in Win 7 Pro? So I guess
    my only option is to buy malwarewarebytes but why the change in scores?

    I went into the Action Center to check my Security:

    https://postimg.cc/BPqZXNMp

    Thanks,
    Robert








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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Mar 25 18:03:09 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 3/24/2025 7:07 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 3/23/2025 3:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I bought a new CR2032 battery and installed it in the 780 and changed
    the year/date and checked that the boot sequence hadn't changed. So all >>>> is good. I checked the 780 fan again and it seems like I need to remove >>>> the cover and heat sink to access the fan.

    Robert

    In Windows 10, if you go

       Start : Run : "control"

    the control.exe executable provides the old "Control Panels".
    You can pin that to the Task Bar if you like, for next time.

    In the Control Panels, is the "Date and Time" item. click that and run it. >>>
    The third tab over, is "Internet Time".

    There is a "Change Settings" button. Use that.

    The tick box for "Synchronize with an Internet time server" should be ticked.
    The server address can be set to "time.windows.com". There is an "Update Now"
    button. This will correct the time you have entered, to around 1 second
    accuracy.

    The time must be set accurately, for things like Windows Update
    to work properly.

        Paul




    I noticed my malwarebytes score had dropped  I went into settings but
    all the settings are for premium. Is there anything I can do to improve it short of paying?

    https://postimg.cc/BtPYMmRP

    https://postimg.cc/B8vNDpx6

    https://postimg.cc/14KHWbJt

    Thanks,
    Robert

    In the first picture, what does that score mean ?
    I see the background is the Windows 7 background image.
    Windows 7 may or may not have a real time protection
    running on it at the moment.

    The free version of Malwarebytes, is an on-demand scanner, it
    is not a real-time scanner.

    How would the program be measuring your machine ? What is the
    measurement process ? (Looking at the "items" to the left, I don't
    see how that yields a 72% score.)

    *******

    Windows 10 has Windows Defender, which will work until at least October 2025. That's about it for machines that don't have sufficient materials for
    Windows 11.

    I tested a Windows 11 Upgrade on the 780, and it refuses because the
    780 does not have the Population Count (POPCNT) instruction. So that won't work.
    That would give another way to get Windows Defender for a period of time.

    Windows 11 might install on the XPS 8500, but that's a pretty old processor (no MBEC support), so it might be a bit slow.

    https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/65523/intel-core-i73770k-processor-8m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz/specifications.html

    This machine is about the same vintage as the XPS 8500,
    and it has a GPT disk layout. That made putting windows 11 on
    here a bit easier. This machine has no TPM and no MBEC.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/d07kBs9T/W11-Home-on-4930-K-X79.gif

    *******

    If you pay for Malwarebytes, you won't be using all the features,
    and it would be mainly for real-time protection.

    You would have to find some information on how long Malwarebytes
    would protect Windows 7, in its realtime protection mode.

    https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360039021313-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4-support-for-Windows-7

    "Malwarebytes for Windows v4 -- support for Windows 7

    Malwarebytes for Windows version 4 is committed to continue support for Windows 7
    for as long as Microsoft allows us to. This stand means that we'll continue
    offering our core anti-malware protection to the best of our ability, given
    technical limitations. For more information surrounding these limitations,
    please refer to the following Malwarebytes Frequently Asked Questions.
    "
    Paul


    I found this download for Windows Defender,..
    should I install it?

    https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender

    Thanks,
    Robert



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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Mar 26 01:32:02 2025
    On Tue, 3/25/2025 1:23 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 3/24/2025 7:07 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 3/23/2025 3:47 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I bought a new CR2032 battery and installed it in the 780 and changed >>>>> the year/date and checked that the boot sequence hadn't changed. So all >>>>> is good. I checked the 780 fan again and it seems like I need to remove >>>>> the cover and heat sink to access the fan.

    Robert

    In Windows 10, if you go

        Start : Run : "control"

    the control.exe executable provides the old "Control Panels".
    You can pin that to the Task Bar if you like, for next time.

    In the Control Panels, is the "Date and Time" item. click that and run it. >>>>
    The third tab over, is "Internet Time".

    There is a "Change Settings" button. Use that.

    The tick box for "Synchronize with an Internet time server" should be ticked.
    The server address can be set to "time.windows.com". There is an "Update Now"
    button. This will correct the time you have entered, to around 1 second >>>> accuracy.

    The time must be set accurately, for things like Windows Update
    to work properly.

         Paul




    I noticed my malwarebytes score had dropped  I went into settings but
    all the settings are for premium. Is there anything I can do to improve it short of paying?

    https://postimg.cc/BtPYMmRP

    https://postimg.cc/B8vNDpx6

    https://postimg.cc/14KHWbJt

    Thanks,
    Robert

    In the first picture, what does that score mean ?
    I see the background is the Windows 7 background image.
    Windows 7 may or may not have a real time protection
    running on it at the moment.

    The free version of Malwarebytes, is an on-demand scanner, it
    is not a real-time scanner.

    How would the program be measuring your machine ? What is the
    measurement process ? (Looking at the "items" to the left, I don't
    see how that yields a 72% score.)

    *******

    Windows 10 has Windows Defender, which will work until at least October 2025.
    That's about it for machines that don't have sufficient materials for
    Windows 11.

    I tested a Windows 11 Upgrade on the 780, and it refuses because the
    780 does not have the Population Count (POPCNT) instruction. So that won't work.
    That would give another way to get Windows Defender for a period of time.

    Windows 11 might install on the XPS 8500, but that's a pretty old processor >> (no MBEC support), so it might be a bit slow.

         https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/65523/intel-core-i73770k-processor-8m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz/specifications.html

    This machine is about the same vintage as the XPS 8500,
    and it has a GPT disk layout. That made putting windows 11 on
    here a bit easier. This machine has no TPM and no MBEC.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/d07kBs9T/W11-Home-on-4930-K-X79.gif

    *******

    If you pay for Malwarebytes, you won't be using all the features,
    and it would be mainly for real-time protection.

    You would have to find some information on how long Malwarebytes
    would protect Windows 7, in its realtime protection mode.

    https://support.malwarebytes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360039021313-Malwarebytes-for-Windows-v4-support-for-Windows-7

       "Malwarebytes for Windows v4 -- support for Windows 7

        Malwarebytes for Windows version 4 is committed to continue support for Windows 7
        for as long as Microsoft allows us to. This stand means that we'll continue
        offering our core anti-malware protection to the best of our ability, given
        technical limitations. For more information surrounding these limitations,
        please refer to the following Malwarebytes Frequently Asked Questions.
       "
         Paul


    Exactly,.. what does that score mean? It use to be 90%. on the 780 and the 8500 was 82
    but all of a sudden they dropped to 72. Do you think this is a marketing ploy ?

    780 present

    https://postimg.cc/bG7j2LNb


    780 before

    https://postimg.cc/vg5w79cK

    8500 present

    https://postimg.cc/4H5Cqgvb

    8500 before

    https://postimg.cc/vDLcbx3X



    I thought I had  Windows Defender on the computer but I checked the Control Panel
    for installed programs and it's not there. I also checked my downloads folder and I don't have it. Could you please give me a link for Windows Defender?

    Hmmmm I'm trying to understand. You mean the only real time protection I have for the computers is Windows Defender and your suggestion I change the OS from Win 7 to Win 11?

    Is there no other way for real time protection in Win 7 Pro? So I guess my only option is to buy malwarewarebytes but why the change in scores?

    I went into the Action Center to check my Security:

    https://postimg.cc/BPqZXNMp

    Thanks,
    Robert

    On the 8500, both say "Last Scan Yesterday", so it is not the frequency of the scans.
    They could be measuring the number of scans divided by the number of days, over a larger range of days.

    *******

    Windows Defender on Win7 is an AntiSpyWare software.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/yxGSnVTr/Win7-Defender-To-MSE-transition.gif

    The replacement for that is Microsoft Security Essentials, which
    is similar to Windows Defender for Windows 10. The engine portion
    might have been a file of around 13.7MB that came in on a Windows Update.

    For example, MsMpEng.exe would be an example of a Microsoft AV.
    (You would see that in Task Manager, after MSE is installed via a Windows Update.)
    In other words, it is always possible you have that running *right now* .

    The support for that is in Program Files\Microsoft Security Client and
    the epp.msi may have been part of its installation (by Windows Update).
    But Windows Update did not label it as such, so I don't know which update
    put that there.

    Whereas these files include AV definitions (115MB) and a DLL for
    the engine portion (which doesn't show in Task Manager).

    It uses the same AV definition files. If you see MsMpEng.exe running
    in Task Manager, then perhaps the 64-bit one of these would be
    sufficient to bring your MSE up to date on definitions.

    # MSE x64 download (Use this for your Win7 x75 OS) MPAM-fe.exe 188,192,360 bytes (changes daily)

    https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkID=121721&arch=x64

    # MSE x86 download (you are less likely to have a 32 bit OS...)

    https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkID=121721&arch=x86

    After MSE is installed, there is an EasyFixIt for it. This
    is intended to restore functional auto-updates (even this
    did not seem to work, after I installed it). Checking
    the date on the GUI for the last update, helps confirm it is updating
    properly by itself. This uses TLS 1.2 while doing the AutoUpdates
    (a slightly more secure https: flavor). ~1MB.

    https://download.microsoft.com/download/0/6/5/0658B1A7-6D2E-474F-BC2C-D69E5B9E9A68/MicrosoftEasyFix51044.msi

    To get the file for MSE Win7, there is a web page that is
    updated regularly. The auto-updater negates the need to use this,
    but you should still have this bookmarked just in case. This is
    just another link to get the MPAM-fe, not the MsMpEng.exe part.

    https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/wdsi/defenderupdates

    The installed MSE, has a GUI similar to the Windows Defender
    AntiSpyware, but the title bar should reflect it is the
    real time AV instead.

    With that installed, MalwareBytes should say your "Health" is "100%",
    because that is an AV product, while Malwarebytes is an offline
    scanner. And an offline scanner can still be run, if you want.
    But the MSE AV will be running in real time protection mode
    (it's already scanned a gigabyte of my files on the Test Machine).
    It will be the usual circus if it ever finds anything :-/

    Will that last until Oct.2025 for Windows 7 ?
    Will it last longer than that ?
    On purpose, Microsoft won't say, to make you "nervous" :-)

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Mar 26 02:30:51 2025
    On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found this download for Windows Defender,..
    should I install it?

    https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
    other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
    what happened.

    The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.

    System Requirements
    Available on: PC
    OS: Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher

    It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7.
    You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry. Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on
    your machine.

    *******

    I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
    says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
    and that it was "KB2902907".

    It is not in: https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com

    And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0

    https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

    Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
    The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.

    That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe

    Name: MSEInstall.exe
    Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
    SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A

    That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.

    That should work.

    I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke. Here goes.

    OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Mar 26 03:37:16 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found this download for Windows Defender,..
    should I install it?

    https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
    other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
    what happened.

    The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.

    System Requirements
    Available on: PC
    OS: Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher

    It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7.
    You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
    Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on your machine.

    *******

    I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
    says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
    and that it was "KB2902907".

    It is not in: https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com

    And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0

    https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

    Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
    The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.

    That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe

    Name: MSEInstall.exe
    Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
    SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A

    That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.

    That should work.

    I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke. Here goes.

    OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".

    Paul



    The update catalog link didn't show anything, just the page but no
    updates. I guess you have to search for them? The second link took me to
    a way back page,.. is that correct?

    I ran the MSEInstall.exe however during the process it said I need to
    remove all my A/V programs before installing. It also said too many A/V
    may result in a conflict. So in addition to Windows firewall, I have
    Avast, Spywareblaster, and Superantispyware. Can I and should I retain
    all of these after I remove them for installation?

    https://postimg.cc/w1hSVZcq

    I'll do this first on the 780 and then the 8500,.just to play it safe.

    Thanks,
    Robert



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Mar 26 07:45:46 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found this download for Windows Defender,..
    should I install it?

    https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
    other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
    what happened.

    The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.

    System Requirements
    Available on: PC
    OS: Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher

    It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7.
    You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
    Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on your machine.

    *******

    I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
    says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
    and that it was "KB2902907".

    It is not in: https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com

    And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0

    https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

    Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
    The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.

    That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe

    Name: MSEInstall.exe
    Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
    SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A

    That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.

    That should work.

    I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke. Here goes.

    OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".

    Paul



    p.s. also malwarebytes of course.


    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Mar 26 11:29:15 2025
    On Wed, 3/26/2025 6:37 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found this download for Windows Defender,..
    should I install it?

    https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
    other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
    what happened.

    The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.

        System Requirements
        Available on:  PC
        OS:  Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher

    It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7.
    You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
    Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on
    your machine.

    *******

    I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
    says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
    and that it was "KB2902907".

    It is not in:  https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com

    And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0

    https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

        https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

          Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
          The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.

    That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe

        Name: MSEInstall.exe
        Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
        SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A

    That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.

    That should work.

    I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke. >> Here goes.

    OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".

        Paul



    The update catalog link didn't show anything, just the page but no updates. I guess you have to search for them? The second link took me to a way back page,.. is that correct?

    I ran the MSEInstall.exe however during the process it said I need to remove all my A/V programs before installing. It also said too many A/V may result in a conflict. So in addition to Windows firewall, I have Avast, Spywareblaster, and
    Superantispyware. Can I and should I retain all of these after I remove them  for installation?

    https://postimg.cc/w1hSVZcq

    I'll do this first on the 780 and then the 8500,.just to play it safe.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    From a management tasks perspective, you are only juggling the
    RealTime AV portion of MalwareBytes Paid, versus the
    RealTime AV portion of MSE (Microsoft Security Essentials).

    The main concern on Windows 7, is when *any* of your potential
    realTime AV, stop being updated and you have no protection.
    This is why you are watching watching watching who is in
    control of your RealTime AV.

    Avast also contains a RealTime AV. Has it stopped working ?
    It could be in the same class as the two in the first paragraph.
    Perhaps the AVast has stopped working and that's why it is 72% ?

    I can't keep track of all these gubbins :-) Too many gubbins.

    The "Spywareblaster, and Superantispyware" are in a separate class,
    and they have different scan activity (On Demand, I would guess).

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Mar 26 11:23:36 2025
    On Wed, 3/26/2025 10:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found this download for Windows Defender,..
    should I install it?

    https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
    other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
    what happened.

    The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.

        System Requirements
        Available on:  PC
        OS:  Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher

    It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7.
    You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
    Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on
    your machine.

    *******

    I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
    says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
    and that it was "KB2902907".

    It is not in:  https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com

    And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0

    https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

        https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

          Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
          The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.

    That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe

        Name: MSEInstall.exe
        Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
        SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A

    That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.

    That should work.

    I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke. >> Here goes.

    OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".

        Paul



    p.s. also malwarebytes of course.


    Robert


    If you install this one:

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe

    Name: MSEInstall.exe
    Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
    SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A

    that gives you a RealTime AV protection. There should be a new tray item
    in the overflow triangle on the task bar.

    If you *pay* for MalwareBytes, you would change the status of MSE to OFF.
    There should be an icon in the tray area in the lower right (taskbar level). Paying for Malwarebytes gives you a RealTime AV.

    It's generally not advised to run two RealTime AV at the same time. For one thing, it is confusing for the operator, as notifications could be flying
    onto the screen for both of them, quarantined materials could end up
    in two different folders and so on.

    And in principle, if the MalwareBytes "percentage" indicator is any good
    at all, it should read "100%", if the AV Definition file for MSEInstall
    is present and up-to-date and the thing is running. This is normally coordinated by a registry entry, where the active RealTime scanner writes
    into the Registry entry that it is the boss. MalwareBytes Free should be
    able to "see" things like the MsMpEng.exe executable running in Task Manager all the time.

    The MSE does this:

    1) Every time you open a file in some tool, it scans the executable
    program.

    2) At boot up, MsMpEng scans the System32 folder and the Program Files.
    You will notice more disk activity at startup. It would be the same
    as Windows 10 and its copy of MsMpEng.

    3) While the system is running, it should be doing a scan in the
    background, of some files on C: . A notification will pop up every
    couple days "MSE: I have scanned your files 3 times and no threats found".

    From a performance point of view, if you run HashDeep (a checksum utility
    that generates a checksum for every file on the computer), it takes
    eight times longer to run when MSE is operational. And that's because
    MSE scans every file before HashDeep can work out the checksum. In other words, when you have this kind of protection, there is a performance penalty.
    It's not too noticeable if you open a single MSWord document and start
    typing, or if you are web browsing. But anything which is "data-full"
    can be slowed. It would be the same if MalwareBytes Paid was running the show. Each RealTime AV has a different performance level, and needs to do
    more (or less) scanning. Some take 50 milliseconds to process a file.
    Others take a whole second.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Mar 26 20:46:56 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/26/2025 6:37 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found this download for Windows Defender,..
    should I install it?

    https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
    other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
    what happened.

    The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.

        System Requirements
        Available on:  PC
        OS:  Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher

    It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7.
    You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
    Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on >>> your machine.

    *******

    I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
    says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
    and that it was "KB2902907".

    It is not in:  https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com

    And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0

    https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

        https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

          Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
          The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.

    That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe

        Name: MSEInstall.exe
        Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
        SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A

    That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.

    That should work.

    I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke.
    Here goes.

    OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".

        Paul



    The update catalog link didn't show anything, just the page but no updates. I guess you have to search for them? The second link took me to a way back page,.. is that correct?

    I ran the MSEInstall.exe however during the process it said I need to remove all my A/V programs before installing. It also said too many A/V may result in a conflict. So in addition to Windows firewall, I have Avast, Spywareblaster, and
    Superantispyware. Can I and should I retain all of these after I remove them  for installation?

    https://postimg.cc/w1hSVZcq

    I'll do this first on the 780 and then the 8500,.just to play it safe.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    From a management tasks perspective, you are only juggling the
    RealTime AV portion of MalwareBytes Paid, versus the
    RealTime AV portion of MSE (Microsoft Security Essentials).

    The main concern on Windows 7, is when *any* of your potential
    realTime AV, stop being updated and you have no protection.
    This is why you are watching watching watching who is in
    control of your RealTime AV.

    Avast also contains a RealTime AV. Has it stopped working ?
    It could be in the same class as the two in the first paragraph.
    Perhaps the AVast has stopped working and that's why it is 72% ?

    I can't keep track of all these gubbins :-) Too many gubbins.

    The "Spywareblaster, and Superantispyware" are in a separate class,
    and they have different scan activity (On Demand, I would guess).

    Paul



    I'd rather not pay for malwarebytes as I live on a fixed income. I'd
    rather go with MSE and use the free malewarebytes.

    Avast seems to continue to function normally.

    I'll remove all the A/V programs on the 780 and run MSE.exe then
    install them again. I'll let you know how it goes.

    Thanks,
    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Mar 27 01:46:49 2025
    On Wed, 3/26/2025 11:46 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/26/2025 6:37 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found this download for Windows Defender,..
    should I install it?

    https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
    other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
    what happened.

    The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.

         System Requirements
         Available on:  PC
         OS:  Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher

    It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7. >>>> You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
    Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on >>>> your machine.

    *******

    I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
    says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
    and that it was "KB2902907".

    It is not in:  https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com

    And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0

    https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

         https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

           Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
           The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.

    That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe

         Name: MSEInstall.exe
         Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
         SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A

    That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.

    That should work.

    I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke.
    Here goes.

    OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".

         Paul



    The update catalog link didn't show anything, just the page but no updates. I guess you have to search for them? The second link took me to a way back page,.. is that correct?

    I ran the MSEInstall.exe however during the process it said I need to remove all my A/V programs before installing. It also said too many A/V may result in a conflict. So in addition to Windows firewall, I have Avast, Spywareblaster, and
    Superantispyware. Can I and should I retain all of these after I remove them  for installation?

    https://postimg.cc/w1hSVZcq

    I'll do this first on the 780 and then the 8500,.just to play it safe.

    Thanks,
    Robert

     From a management tasks perspective, you are only juggling the
    RealTime AV portion of MalwareBytes Paid, versus the
    RealTime AV portion of MSE (Microsoft Security Essentials).

    The main concern on Windows 7, is when *any* of your potential
    realTime AV, stop being updated and you have no protection.
    This is why you are watching watching watching who is in
    control of your RealTime AV.

    Avast also contains a RealTime AV. Has it stopped working ?
    It could be in the same class as the two in the first paragraph.
    Perhaps the AVast has stopped working and that's why it is 72% ?

    I can't keep track of all these gubbins :-) Too many gubbins.

    The "Spywareblaster, and Superantispyware" are in a separate class,
    and they have different scan activity (On Demand, I would guess).

        Paul



    I'd rather not pay for malwarebytes as I live on a fixed income. I'd
    rather go with MSE and use the free malewarebytes.

    Avast seems to continue to function normally.

    I'll remove all the A/V programs on the 780 and run MSE.exe  then install them again. I'll let you know how it goes.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    One element of MSE success, is seeing MsMpEng.exe in Task Manager, and
    that it has done a gigabyte or more of reads, and a smaller number
    of writes. That means it is scanning.

    The Task Manager has an adjustment to add "Columns" to the Task
    Manager display. I usually turn on "I/O Read Bytes" and "I/O Write Bytes"
    to see how much work various programs have done. That is how I
    can check how much work the MsMpEng program has done, by using
    the I/O Columns added.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Mar 27 04:05:22 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/26/2025 10:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found this download for Windows Defender,..
    should I install it?

    https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
    other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
    what happened.

    The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.

        System Requirements
        Available on:  PC
        OS:  Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher

    It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7.
    You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
    Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on >>> your machine.

    *******

    I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
    says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
    and that it was "KB2902907".

    It is not in:  https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com

    And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0

    https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

        https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

          Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
          The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.

    That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe

        Name: MSEInstall.exe
        Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
        SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A

    That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.

    That should work.

    I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke.
    Here goes.

    OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".

        Paul



    p.s. also malwarebytes of course.


    Robert


    If you install this one:

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe

    Name: MSEInstall.exe
    Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
    SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A

    that gives you a RealTime AV protection. There should be a new tray item
    in the overflow triangle on the task bar.

    If you *pay* for MalwareBytes, you would change the status of MSE to OFF. There should be an icon in the tray area in the lower right (taskbar level). Paying for Malwarebytes gives you a RealTime AV.

    It's generally not advised to run two RealTime AV at the same time. For one thing, it is confusing for the operator, as notifications could be flying onto the screen for both of them, quarantined materials could end up
    in two different folders and so on.

    And in principle, if the MalwareBytes "percentage" indicator is any good
    at all, it should read "100%", if the AV Definition file for MSEInstall
    is present and up-to-date and the thing is running. This is normally coordinated by a registry entry, where the active RealTime scanner writes into the Registry entry that it is the boss. MalwareBytes Free should be
    able to "see" things like the MsMpEng.exe executable running in Task Manager all the time.

    The MSE does this:

    1) Every time you open a file in some tool, it scans the executable
    program.

    2) At boot up, MsMpEng scans the System32 folder and the Program Files.
    You will notice more disk activity at startup. It would be the same
    as Windows 10 and its copy of MsMpEng.

    3) While the system is running, it should be doing a scan in the
    background, of some files on C: . A notification will pop up every
    couple days "MSE: I have scanned your files 3 times and no threats found".

    From a performance point of view, if you run HashDeep (a checksum utility that generates a checksum for every file on the computer), it takes
    eight times longer to run when MSE is operational. And that's because
    MSE scans every file before HashDeep can work out the checksum. In other words,
    when you have this kind of protection, there is a performance penalty.
    It's not too noticeable if you open a single MSWord document and start typing, or if you are web browsing. But anything which is "data-full"
    can be slowed. It would be the same if MalwareBytes Paid was running the show.
    Each RealTime AV has a different performance level, and needs to do
    more (or less) scanning. Some take 50 milliseconds to process a file.
    Others take a whole second.

    Paul



    I removed all the A/V suite on the 780 and ran the MSE.exe and installed
    Window Defender,. then I loaded the free malewarebytes (expires in 14
    days). and my score went up to 87.

    https://postimg.cc/Whrx8KjW

    I installed Avast and then ran a full scan on the 780 but it seem to
    hang up at 99% I let it go for 2+ hrs and still did not finish so I
    ended it. I then loaded the rest of the programs and went back to Avast
    and am running a full scan again. It still hangs up at 99% after an
    hour,. but will let run. It seems long to me though maybe because of MSE?

    When I installed Superantispyware I got a pop-up warning message:

    https://postimg.cc/dkb4Ts7q


    I just closed it and I updated Superantispyware and seems to be OK


    I'll do the 8500 tomorrow.

    Robert







    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Mar 27 08:03:58 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/26/2025 10:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found this download for Windows Defender,..
    should I install it?

    https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
    other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
    what happened.

    The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.

        System Requirements
        Available on:  PC
        OS:  Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher

    It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7.
    You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
    Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on >>> your machine.

    *******

    I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
    says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
    and that it was "KB2902907".

    It is not in:  https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com

    And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0

    https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

        https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

          Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
          The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.

    That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe

        Name: MSEInstall.exe
        Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
        SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A

    That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.

    That should work.

    I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke.
    Here goes.

    OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".

        Paul



    p.s. also malwarebytes of course.


    Robert


    If you install this one:

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe

    Name: MSEInstall.exe
    Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
    SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A

    that gives you a RealTime AV protection. There should be a new tray item
    in the overflow triangle on the task bar.

    If you *pay* for MalwareBytes, you would change the status of MSE to OFF. There should be an icon in the tray area in the lower right (taskbar level). Paying for Malwarebytes gives you a RealTime AV.

    It's generally not advised to run two RealTime AV at the same time. For one thing, it is confusing for the operator, as notifications could be flying onto the screen for both of them, quarantined materials could end up
    in two different folders and so on.

    And in principle, if the MalwareBytes "percentage" indicator is any good
    at all, it should read "100%", if the AV Definition file for MSEInstall
    is present and up-to-date and the thing is running. This is normally coordinated by a registry entry, where the active RealTime scanner writes into the Registry entry that it is the boss. MalwareBytes Free should be
    able to "see" things like the MsMpEng.exe executable running in Task Manager all the time.

    The MSE does this:

    1) Every time you open a file in some tool, it scans the executable
    program.

    2) At boot up, MsMpEng scans the System32 folder and the Program Files.
    You will notice more disk activity at startup. It would be the same
    as Windows 10 and its copy of MsMpEng.

    3) While the system is running, it should be doing a scan in the
    background, of some files on C: . A notification will pop up every
    couple days "MSE: I have scanned your files 3 times and no threats found".

    From a performance point of view, if you run HashDeep (a checksum utility that generates a checksum for every file on the computer), it takes
    eight times longer to run when MSE is operational. And that's because
    MSE scans every file before HashDeep can work out the checksum. In other words,
    when you have this kind of protection, there is a performance penalty.
    It's not too noticeable if you open a single MSWord document and start typing, or if you are web browsing. But anything which is "data-full"
    can be slowed. It would be the same if MalwareBytes Paid was running the show.
    Each RealTime AV has a different performance level, and needs to do
    more (or less) scanning. Some take 50 milliseconds to process a file.
    Others take a whole second.

    Paul


    Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and
    installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also
    went back to 87.

    https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw

    I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the
    process for the 780 and 8500?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Mar 27 23:46:28 2025
    On Thu, 3/27/2025 11:03 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.

    https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw

    I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    No.

    MSE (the equivalent of it) is already running.

    In Task Manager, sort by name, and see that "MsMpEng.exe"
    is running. That is your RealTime AV scanner.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Mar 27 23:45:00 2025
    On Thu, 3/27/2025 7:05 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 3/26/2025 10:45 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 3/25/2025 9:03 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I found this download for Windows Defender,..
    should I install it?

    https://aka.ms/WindowsDefender

    Thanks,
    Robert

    It took me quite a while to spin up the Win7 in the
    other post. That's so I could take some pictures of
    what happened.

    The thing you just posted, it's hard to say what that is.

         System Requirements
         Available on:  PC
         OS:  Windows 11 version 22000.0 or higher

    It does not say particularly, whether it is a UWP and installs on Win7. >>>> You would open that link on MSEdge browser, to ensure it opens the Store entry.
    Sometimes those links work in any browser, not sure what you will find on >>>> your machine.

    *******

    I booted up the other machine, and the Windows Update history
    says it was an Optional Update on the Windows Update window
    and that it was "KB2902907".

    It is not in:  https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com

    And the links are no longer valid here. Need 4.9.218.0

    https://web.archive.org/web/20160501000000*/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

         https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062331/https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=5201

           Click the download button at the top, a menu will appear offering two downloads.
           The larger one will be the x64 version. 14.4MB or so.

    That got me this file. It's a newer file, but I will test it.

    https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe

         Name: MSEInstall.exe
         Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
         SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A

    That is bigger and newer than the one I got via Windows Update. Hmmm.

    That should work.

    I suppose I should just blast that into the Test Machine and test for smoke.
    Here goes.

    OK, nothing blew up. That should be OK. And a partner for your "MalwareBytes Free".

         Paul



    p.s. also malwarebytes of course.


    Robert


    If you install this one:

        https://web.archive.org/web/20240418062411if_/https://download.microsoft.com/download/A/3/8/A38FFBF2-1122-48B4-AF60-E44F6DC28BD8/ENUS/amd64/MSEInstall.exe

          Name: MSEInstall.exe
          Size: 15,065,792 bytes (14 MiB)
          SHA256: 8EAD7CE2C76A6E8EDBD53869CDE315DACF59B0935A8EE80F9427BAAB630D9D4A

    that gives you a RealTime AV protection. There should be a new tray item
    in the overflow triangle on the task bar.

    If you *pay* for MalwareBytes, you would change the status of MSE to OFF.
    There should be an icon in the tray area in the lower right (taskbar level). >> Paying for Malwarebytes gives you a RealTime AV.

    It's generally not advised to run two RealTime AV at the same time. For one >> thing, it is confusing for the operator, as notifications could be flying
    onto the screen for both of them, quarantined materials could end up
    in two different folders and so on.

    And in principle, if the MalwareBytes "percentage" indicator is any good
    at all, it should read "100%", if the AV Definition file for MSEInstall
    is present and up-to-date and the thing is running. This is normally
    coordinated by a registry entry, where the active RealTime scanner writes
    into the Registry entry that it is the boss. MalwareBytes Free should be
    able to "see" things like the MsMpEng.exe executable running in Task Manager >> all the time.

    The MSE does this:

    1) Every time you open a file in some tool, it scans the executable
        program.

    2) At boot up, MsMpEng scans the System32 folder and the Program Files.
        You will notice more disk activity at startup. It would be the same >>     as Windows 10 and its copy of MsMpEng.

    3) While the system is running, it should be doing a scan in the
        background, of some files on C: . A notification will pop up every
        couple days "MSE: I have scanned your files 3 times and no threats found".

     From a performance point of view, if you run HashDeep (a checksum utility >> that generates a checksum for every file on the computer), it takes
    eight times longer to run when MSE is operational. And that's because
    MSE scans every file before HashDeep can work out the checksum. In other words,
    when you have this kind of protection, there is a performance penalty.
    It's not too noticeable if you open a single MSWord document and start
    typing, or if you are web browsing. But anything which is "data-full"
    can be slowed. It would be the same if MalwareBytes Paid was running the show.
    Each RealTime AV has a different performance level, and needs to do
    more (or less) scanning. Some take 50 milliseconds to process a file.
    Others take a whole second.

        Paul



    I removed all the A/V suite on the 780 and ran the MSE.exe and installed Window Defender,. then I loaded the free malewarebytes (expires in 14 days). and my score went up to 87.

    https://postimg.cc/Whrx8KjW

    I installed Avast and then ran a full scan on the 780 but it seem to hang up at 99% I let it go for 2+ hrs and still did not finish so I ended it. I then loaded the rest of the programs and went back to Avast and am running a full scan again. It still
    hangs up at 99% after an hour,. but will let run. It seems long to me though maybe because of MSE?

    When I installed Superantispyware I got a pop-up warning message:

    https://postimg.cc/dkb4Ts7q


    I just closed it and I updated Superantispyware and seems to be OK


    I'll do the 8500 tomorrow.

    Robert

    The low level driver that Superantispyware is using, needs a digital certificate
    and a signing declaration as to who provides the driver. That is what the complaint is about.

    *******

    To determine what AVAST is doing, you would use Sysinternals Process Monitor, set the filter for Operation = CreateFile and Operation = ReadFile and
    that would allow you to track what the last file was that AVAST is reading before it hangs up.

    If AVAST keeps an operational log, the log should list the forward
    progress it has made. Or, it might list an actual error.

    If a scanning program wanders into the SChannel folder, it can find
    "sockets" in there, for decryption plumbing. The operating system
    is not a very good housekeeper and it throws towels on the floor in
    the bathroom. The OS is supposed to tidy up sockets which
    no longer serve a function. For example, when the OS boots, it
    should really reach in there and clean out that folder. If a
    naive program starts "reading" a socket, it just sits there...
    forever... waiting for data. It hangs. You have to tell programs
    of this type to "check the file type, if a socket, DO NOT TOUCH".
    There is one freeware program, which contains a command line option
    like that, for when the software scans the C: drive and happens
    to wander into the SChannel area.

    I had to use Process Monitor before, to catch that particular program
    wandering into that folder. And that allowed me to go and research
    what I was doing wrong.

    AVAST should really know better. It should not need an exception
    added, to stay out of there. It's OK to enter the folder, that
    does not hurt. It is OK to "sniff" an entry in there, and determine
    it is a "socket" and not a "file". It's when you try to read a socket,
    that the result is not useful in the least. That is the condition
    which must be stopped from happening.

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/downloads/procmon

    Paul

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 28 00:24:23 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 3/27/2025 11:03 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.

    https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw

    I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    No.

    MSE (the equivalent of it) is already running.

    In Task Manager, sort by name, and see that "MsMpEng.exe"
    is running. That is your RealTime AV scanner.

    Paul



    Ok,.. whew ,.. that's a relief.

    The 8500 heat sink fan arrived and also I get a new heat
    sink out of the deal and looks like it already has some
    thermal paste applied under a plastic cover. Of course,
    I'm not taking the heat sink off the 8500 and hopefully
    not the 780 if I can figure out how to remove the fan
    without doing so.

    The 780 fan also arrived and has hinges where it connects
    so it will make it easier to figure out how to remove it. I
    don't quite understand the long flange it has that slides
    under the heat sink cover. It serves no useful purpose that
    I can see?

    https://postimg.cc/yJ4VgzV7

    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 28 04:36:46 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 3/27/2025 11:03 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.

    https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw

    I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    No.

    MSE (the equivalent of it) is already running.

    In Task Manager, sort by name, and see that "MsMpEng.exe"
    is running. That is your RealTime AV scanner.

    Paul



    I kept thinking about the 780 fan so I opened it up
    and compared the new fan with the old. There's no
    way the new fan is going to fit the 780. It's huge.

    https://postimg.cc/NyZHpk3Q

    https://postimg.cc/56fF70RQ

    So I guess we keep looking for a new one.

    Robert


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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 28 07:03:43 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 3/27/2025 11:03 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.

    https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw

    I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    No.

    MSE (the equivalent of it) is already running.

    In Task Manager, sort by name, and see that "MsMpEng.exe"
    is running. That is your RealTime AV scanner.

    Paul


    I thought about it a little more and I think my orientation is wrong.
    I believe the flange doesn't go under the heatsink cover it goes behind
    the fan on its side. Then it may just work. Although I still don't know
    how to remove the fan.

    Robert



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 28 09:30:42 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 3/27/2025 11:03 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.

    https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw

    I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    No.

    MSE (the equivalent of it) is already running.

    In Task Manager, sort by name, and see that "MsMpEng.exe"
    is running. That is your RealTime AV scanner.

    Paul


    I opened the 780 again and turn the fan sideways
    with the flange in the rear and then it fit. I tried to
    see how the fan is attached and it seems I'll have
    to remove the heatsink cover after all because the
    fan slides into two metal tabs.

    https://postimg.cc/qzPqvNjg

    I'll have to do a bit more cleaning as well. When I
    get the thermal paste do I cover the entire surface after
    I clean the old paste with alcohol ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Mar 28 16:03:28 2025
    On Fri, 3/28/2025 3:24 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Ok,.. whew ,.. that's a relief.

    The 8500 heat sink fan arrived and also I get a new heat
    sink out of the deal and looks like it already has some
    thermal paste applied under a plastic cover. Of course,
    I'm not taking the heat sink off the 8500 and hopefully
    not the 780 if I can figure out how to remove the fan
    without doing so.

    The 780 fan also arrived and has hinges where it connects
    so it will make it easier to figure out how to remove it. I
    don't quite understand the long flange it has that slides
    under the heat sink cover. It serves no useful purpose that
    I can see?

    https://postimg.cc/yJ4VgzV7

    Robert


    The long flange mates with the front of the computer case.
    There are likely to be a couple holes in the metal, and
    the flange meets up with those holes. It prevents airflow
    upwards into the removable media area, as far as I can tell.

    Remember that the 780 fan is rated at 150 CFM and when
    the motor is running at full power, there would be quite
    a bit of pressure, relatively speaking. That flange tries
    to deflect the air towards the grill area and then out
    of the case.

    The Optiplex 780 is a BTX (not ATX) computer case,
    and things are the reverse of other computer cases.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Mar 28 16:51:12 2025
    On Fri, 3/28/2025 12:30 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 3/27/2025 11:03 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.

    https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw

    I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    No.

    MSE (the equivalent of it) is already running.

    In Task Manager, sort by name, and see that "MsMpEng.exe"
    is running. That is your RealTime AV scanner.

        Paul


    I opened the 780 again and turn the fan sideways
    with the flange in the rear and then it fit. I tried to
    see how the fan is attached and it seems I'll have
    to remove the heatsink cover after all because the
    fan slides into two metal tabs.

    https://postimg.cc/qzPqvNjg

    I'll have to do a bit more cleaning as well. When I
    get the thermal paste do I cover the entire surface after
    I clean the old paste with alcohol ?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    This page has PDF files.

    http://www.arcticsilver.com/intel_application_method.html

    The 780 is a "Core 2 Duo".

    http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/int/vl/intel_app_method_vertical_line_v1.1.pdf

    Part of the reason there are different suggestions,
    has to do with the curvature of the CPU cap. CPUs
    which have soldered lids (the cap is soldered to the
    silicon die with low-temperature solder), those are
    curved (for pre-stress). CPUs which have a thermal interface
    material (TIM) inside the CPU, those are flat on top,
    and the heatsink is flat.

    The quantities of paste involved are not large. A half
    a grain of plump rice, can cover quite a lot of surface.
    when they say to draw a line like that, the line is not
    very thick.

    The purpose of using a line or a dot of paste, is
    so the paste "pushes outwards" as compression is
    applied to the heatsink (the two screws). This prevents
    air from getting entrained in the paste.

    I stopped using the "credit card method" some time ago.
    They used to encourage users to spread the paste with
    a credit card, and use only a thin layer. It should
    never look like putting jam on toast. The layer should
    be thin, as a thin path conducts better than a thick path.
    The particulate embedded in the grease, is what makes
    it conduct heat. The grease is there to help it spread
    as pressure is applied to the joint.

    I have been using the compression method since then. Apply
    a localized (dot or line), then squash the heatsink into it.

    On the AMD processors I have here, I've been using the
    "five dot method", which is a slightly larger central
    dot and four dots part way towards the corner. Taking
    it apart, and examining the resulting pattern, it seems
    to be applying OK. You can do a test fitting, and check
    that there was enough.

    What you don't want, is you NEVER WANT TO GET THE
    PASTE INTO THE SOCKET ELECTRICAL CONTACTS. It would
    be quite hard to remove, if it runs that much. The
    last time I did an E7500, I used a little bit too much.
    But it still was not so much that it went down the sides.

    When you use the AS5 tube, and remove the cap (compression fit),
    two things can happen. A clear liquid can come out (product
    has separated a bit). The clear liquid is the grease portion.
    If the grey material comes out, that is grease mixed with
    boron nitride (ceramic) particles plus the silver particles
    that make the grey color. You want to apply "grey dots" or
    "grey line". The clear fluid is not useful for cooling,
    and should be avoided in the application process. It might
    flow outside of the gap, that clear stuff.

    AS5 does not normally separate. It's usually pretty good
    at being grey as soon as you withdraw some from the applicator.

    I would guess these items (heatsink and CPU) are pretty flat,
    and it should not take a very large "half grain of rice" to cover
    a square inch of surface.

    The "tinting phase" can be your calibration install of
    the heatsink. You can "under-apply" the line, make
    it thinner. Then Squash it down. Tighten the two screws.
    Then take it apart and examine the result. Then, clean off
    the paste (no alcohol this time), and some tiny amount of
    paste fills the cracks in the aluminum ("tinting").
    Then apply your "final line", adjusting the size of the
    line for how well it spread during the test fitting.
    Spreading the material around while cleaning it up,
    counts as "tinting" :-) You will find that wiping it
    off, takes some amount of effort.

    But the previous TIM, it should be cleaned off so
    the surface metals show through. That's mainly so
    there is no "rubbish" on the surface, and so when
    pressure is applied, the final film thickness
    will not be over-thick.

    On the 780, the CPU draws either 36W or 43W flat out.
    This is not a hot processor by any means. It might
    even successfully run with no paste at all. It's when
    you are working with 250W processors, you want good
    workmanship :-) Even your 3770K is not a high power
    processor, at 77W.

    The best processor I've got, draws 212W flat out.
    They suggested water cooling for it. I didn't believe
    them. The first cooler wasn't good enough. But I got
    a 250W air cooler for the thing, and that finally
    brought the temperature down into the reasonable zone
    (60C or so). On modern computers, the cooling uses
    closed loop feedback, and not only do you work
    on the mechanical details of good cooling, the cooling
    also has to be good enough to keep the *control loop*
    happy. The control readout "spikes", if the cooler
    isn't cooling enough. Which is irritating. With the
    250W air cooler, it no longer spikes.

    Absolutely nothing like this happens on the Dell Optiplex 780.
    It's well behaved, and, it is relatively low power.
    No reason for this to be a pestilent install. Should
    be clear sailing.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Mar 29 21:36:23 2025
    On Sat, 3/29/2025 8:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Also, on reflection, the 780 isn't used all that much, its a
    backup computer. So it stays off most of the time so the
    fan isn't being used.

    I run it on average about once a week for updates and scans
    and I do mrimgs on the 1st of the month

    I still have the fan just in case ,... and I will clean it.

    Robert

    I try to provide some background information,
    so you have some feeling for the procedure.

    Few people are so ham-fisted, to make a real mess of it
    (get the paste down into the socket pin area).

    As long as you limit yourself to "rice-grain or half-rice-grain"
    applications of material, there is little chance of damage.

    But if you're going to undo those two screws on the CPU section,
    I want you to be prepared, and have the materials on hand,
    to do the reassembly. Even if you didn't replace the fan,
    and just cleaned it, there would still be the issue of
    buttering the CPU again before reassembly.

    Because the 65W E7500 in the 780 is actually a 36W processor,
    it's unlikely to overheat. Part of the reason the
    case needs airflow, is for the rest of the components
    in the computer. Like if your video card does not have
    a fan, a little air passing by could help it.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Mar 30 04:25:59 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 3/29/2025 8:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Also, on reflection, the 780 isn't used all that much, its a
    backup computer. So it stays off most of the time so the
    fan isn't being used.

    I run it on average about once a week for updates and scans
    and I do mrimgs on the 1st of the month

    I still have the fan just in case ,... and I will clean it.

    Robert

    I try to provide some background information,
    so you have some feeling for the procedure.

    Few people are so ham-fisted, to make a real mess of it
    (get the paste down into the socket pin area).

    As long as you limit yourself to "rice-grain or half-rice-grain"
    applications of material, there is little chance of damage.

    But if you're going to undo those two screws on the CPU section,
    I want you to be prepared, and have the materials on hand,
    to do the reassembly. Even if you didn't replace the fan,
    and just cleaned it, there would still be the issue of
    buttering the CPU again before reassembly.

    Because the 65W E7500 in the 780 is actually a 36W processor,
    it's unlikely to overheat. Part of the reason the
    case needs airflow, is for the rest of the components
    in the computer. Like if your video card does not have
    a fan, a little air passing by could help it.

    Paul




    I understand,.. I'm just a bit afraid of frying the 780 maybe if I took
    it step by step and sent you pictures of how I applied the paste and
    the test fit etc. and then you can OK it then maybe I could do it that
    way.

    Could I leave the final thermal paste on until you OK it. It won't harden
    or anything? It would mean leaving the 780 open for awhile. What type
    of pattern do you suggest? If it's a compression fit then nothing should
    be near the edges correct?

    https://postimg.cc/y3YbFgf1

    https://postimg.cc/gx6BqPKZ

    https://postimg.cc/sGXTBFX1

    https://postimg.cc/gxRNLHYy

    I still need to get isopropyl alcohol and do I use coffee filters to clean ?

    On top of everything else I have car problems.

    I had replaced nearly everything there was to replace just because I
    wanted to so it would last longer like with the computers and yet
    when drove it to Walgreen's it stalled on me. I had to leave it and walk
    home.

    It spent the night there and we got it back home the next day. It
    apparently needed a new distributor which I bought and my mechanic
    (who lives across from me) installed. However the car doesn't run
    right afterwards,.. it lurches forward and the check light comes on/off. I could never get it into high gear and I barely made it to the store and
    back. I could only drive in lurching in the low gears. So he's going to
    look at it again tomorrow and hopefully find what's wrong. So I need to
    get the car running to get the alcohol or next time I go to the store.

    Actually, we replaced the video card and it does have a fan on it.

    https://postimg.cc/gn91rjpZ

    I have to say the design of the 780 has something to be desired where you
    have to remove the heatsink to change a fan. It would of been better to
    make
    separate screws for each.

    Robert


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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Mar 28 19:09:00 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 3/28/2025 12:30 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 3/27/2025 11:03 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.

    https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw

    I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    No.

    MSE (the equivalent of it) is already running.

    In Task Manager, sort by name, and see that "MsMpEng.exe"
    is running. That is your RealTime AV scanner.

        Paul


    I opened the 780 again and turn the fan sideways
    with the flange in the rear and then it fit. I tried to
    see how the fan is attached and it seems I'll have
    to remove the heatsink cover after all because the
    fan slides into two metal tabs.

    https://postimg.cc/qzPqvNjg

    I'll have to do a bit more cleaning as well. When I
    get the thermal paste do I cover the entire surface after
    I clean the old paste with alcohol ?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    This page has PDF files.

    http://www.arcticsilver.com/intel_application_method.html

    The 780 is a "Core 2 Duo".

    http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/int/vl/intel_app_method_vertical_line_v1.1.pdf

    Part of the reason there are different suggestions,
    has to do with the curvature of the CPU cap. CPUs
    which have soldered lids (the cap is soldered to the
    silicon die with low-temperature solder), those are
    curved (for pre-stress). CPUs which have a thermal interface
    material (TIM) inside the CPU, those are flat on top,
    and the heatsink is flat.

    The quantities of paste involved are not large. A half
    a grain of plump rice, can cover quite a lot of surface.
    when they say to draw a line like that, the line is not
    very thick.

    The purpose of using a line or a dot of paste, is
    so the paste "pushes outwards" as compression is
    applied to the heatsink (the two screws). This prevents
    air from getting entrained in the paste.

    I stopped using the "credit card method" some time ago.
    They used to encourage users to spread the paste with
    a credit card, and use only a thin layer. It should
    never look like putting jam on toast. The layer should
    be thin, as a thin path conducts better than a thick path.
    The particulate embedded in the grease, is what makes
    it conduct heat. The grease is there to help it spread
    as pressure is applied to the joint.

    I have been using the compression method since then. Apply
    a localized (dot or line), then squash the heatsink into it.

    On the AMD processors I have here, I've been using the
    "five dot method", which is a slightly larger central
    dot and four dots part way towards the corner. Taking
    it apart, and examining the resulting pattern, it seems
    to be applying OK. You can do a test fitting, and check
    that there was enough.

    What you don't want, is you NEVER WANT TO GET THE
    PASTE INTO THE SOCKET ELECTRICAL CONTACTS. It would
    be quite hard to remove, if it runs that much. The
    last time I did an E7500, I used a little bit too much.
    But it still was not so much that it went down the sides.

    When you use the AS5 tube, and remove the cap (compression fit),
    two things can happen. A clear liquid can come out (product
    has separated a bit). The clear liquid is the grease portion.
    If the grey material comes out, that is grease mixed with
    boron nitride (ceramic) particles plus the silver particles
    that make the grey color. You want to apply "grey dots" or
    "grey line". The clear fluid is not useful for cooling,
    and should be avoided in the application process. It might
    flow outside of the gap, that clear stuff.

    AS5 does not normally separate. It's usually pretty good
    at being grey as soon as you withdraw some from the applicator.

    I would guess these items (heatsink and CPU) are pretty flat,
    and it should not take a very large "half grain of rice" to cover
    a square inch of surface.

    The "tinting phase" can be your calibration install of
    the heatsink. You can "under-apply" the line, make
    it thinner. Then Squash it down. Tighten the two screws.
    Then take it apart and examine the result. Then, clean off
    the paste (no alcohol this time), and some tiny amount of
    paste fills the cracks in the aluminum ("tinting").
    Then apply your "final line", adjusting the size of the
    line for how well it spread during the test fitting.
    Spreading the material around while cleaning it up,
    counts as "tinting" :-) You will find that wiping it
    off, takes some amount of effort.

    But the previous TIM, it should be cleaned off so
    the surface metals show through. That's mainly so
    there is no "rubbish" on the surface, and so when
    pressure is applied, the final film thickness
    will not be over-thick.

    On the 780, the CPU draws either 36W or 43W flat out.
    This is not a hot processor by any means. It might
    even successfully run with no paste at all. It's when
    you are working with 250W processors, you want good
    workmanship :-) Even your 3770K is not a high power
    processor, at 77W.

    The best processor I've got, draws 212W flat out.
    They suggested water cooling for it. I didn't believe
    them. The first cooler wasn't good enough. But I got
    a 250W air cooler for the thing, and that finally
    brought the temperature down into the reasonable zone
    (60C or so). On modern computers, the cooling uses
    closed loop feedback, and not only do you work
    on the mechanical details of good cooling, the cooling
    also has to be good enough to keep the *control loop*
    happy. The control readout "spikes", if the cooler
    isn't cooling enough. Which is irritating. With the
    250W air cooler, it no longer spikes.

    Absolutely nothing like this happens on the Dell Optiplex 780.
    It's well behaved, and, it is relatively low power.
    No reason for this to be a pestilent install. Should
    be clear sailing.

    Paul



    You know, after reading all the instructions in the link and your
    instructions and warnings I think I'm going to back off on the 780.
    I'm afraid of doing this now and frying my 780.

    Maybe this isn't worth it, just for a fan. You know my history and I
    don't have your expertise and I would be doing this for the first time.

    I can do the 8500 fans without removing anything so that I can do
    but now I'm very leery of doing the 780.

    Robert



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Mar 29 05:21:17 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 3/28/2025 12:30 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 3/27/2025 11:03 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Success ! I finished installing Windows Defender on the 8500 and installed all the rest of the A/V programs. Malewarebytes score also went back to 87.

    https://postimg.cc/F1PwmsMw

    I almost hate to ask,,. but do I need to go into Win10 and repeat the process for the 780 and 8500?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    No.

    MSE (the equivalent of it) is already running.

    In Task Manager, sort by name, and see that "MsMpEng.exe"
    is running. That is your RealTime AV scanner.

        Paul


    I opened the 780 again and turn the fan sideways
    with the flange in the rear and then it fit. I tried to
    see how the fan is attached and it seems I'll have
    to remove the heatsink cover after all because the
    fan slides into two metal tabs.

    https://postimg.cc/qzPqvNjg

    I'll have to do a bit more cleaning as well. When I
    get the thermal paste do I cover the entire surface after
    I clean the old paste with alcohol ?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    This page has PDF files.

    http://www.arcticsilver.com/intel_application_method.html

    The 780 is a "Core 2 Duo".

    http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/int/vl/intel_app_method_vertical_line_v1.1.pdf

    Part of the reason there are different suggestions,
    has to do with the curvature of the CPU cap. CPUs
    which have soldered lids (the cap is soldered to the
    silicon die with low-temperature solder), those are
    curved (for pre-stress). CPUs which have a thermal interface
    material (TIM) inside the CPU, those are flat on top,
    and the heatsink is flat.

    The quantities of paste involved are not large. A half
    a grain of plump rice, can cover quite a lot of surface.
    when they say to draw a line like that, the line is not
    very thick.

    The purpose of using a line or a dot of paste, is
    so the paste "pushes outwards" as compression is
    applied to the heatsink (the two screws). This prevents
    air from getting entrained in the paste.

    I stopped using the "credit card method" some time ago.
    They used to encourage users to spread the paste with
    a credit card, and use only a thin layer. It should
    never look like putting jam on toast. The layer should
    be thin, as a thin path conducts better than a thick path.
    The particulate embedded in the grease, is what makes
    it conduct heat. The grease is there to help it spread
    as pressure is applied to the joint.

    I have been using the compression method since then. Apply
    a localized (dot or line), then squash the heatsink into it.

    On the AMD processors I have here, I've been using the
    "five dot method", which is a slightly larger central
    dot and four dots part way towards the corner. Taking
    it apart, and examining the resulting pattern, it seems
    to be applying OK. You can do a test fitting, and check
    that there was enough.

    What you don't want, is you NEVER WANT TO GET THE
    PASTE INTO THE SOCKET ELECTRICAL CONTACTS. It would
    be quite hard to remove, if it runs that much. The
    last time I did an E7500, I used a little bit too much.
    But it still was not so much that it went down the sides.

    When you use the AS5 tube, and remove the cap (compression fit),
    two things can happen. A clear liquid can come out (product
    has separated a bit). The clear liquid is the grease portion.
    If the grey material comes out, that is grease mixed with
    boron nitride (ceramic) particles plus the silver particles
    that make the grey color. You want to apply "grey dots" or
    "grey line". The clear fluid is not useful for cooling,
    and should be avoided in the application process. It might
    flow outside of the gap, that clear stuff.

    AS5 does not normally separate. It's usually pretty good
    at being grey as soon as you withdraw some from the applicator.

    I would guess these items (heatsink and CPU) are pretty flat,
    and it should not take a very large "half grain of rice" to cover
    a square inch of surface.

    The "tinting phase" can be your calibration install of
    the heatsink. You can "under-apply" the line, make
    it thinner. Then Squash it down. Tighten the two screws.
    Then take it apart and examine the result. Then, clean off
    the paste (no alcohol this time), and some tiny amount of
    paste fills the cracks in the aluminum ("tinting").
    Then apply your "final line", adjusting the size of the
    line for how well it spread during the test fitting.
    Spreading the material around while cleaning it up,
    counts as "tinting" :-) You will find that wiping it
    off, takes some amount of effort.

    But the previous TIM, it should be cleaned off so
    the surface metals show through. That's mainly so
    there is no "rubbish" on the surface, and so when
    pressure is applied, the final film thickness
    will not be over-thick.

    On the 780, the CPU draws either 36W or 43W flat out.
    This is not a hot processor by any means. It might
    even successfully run with no paste at all. It's when
    you are working with 250W processors, you want good
    workmanship :-) Even your 3770K is not a high power
    processor, at 77W.

    The best processor I've got, draws 212W flat out.
    They suggested water cooling for it. I didn't believe
    them. The first cooler wasn't good enough. But I got
    a 250W air cooler for the thing, and that finally
    brought the temperature down into the reasonable zone
    (60C or so). On modern computers, the cooling uses
    closed loop feedback, and not only do you work
    on the mechanical details of good cooling, the cooling
    also has to be good enough to keep the *control loop*
    happy. The control readout "spikes", if the cooler
    isn't cooling enough. Which is irritating. With the
    250W air cooler, it no longer spikes.

    Absolutely nothing like this happens on the Dell Optiplex 780.
    It's well behaved, and, it is relatively low power.
    No reason for this to be a pestilent install. Should
    be clear sailing.

    Paul

    Also, on reflection, the 780 isn't used all that much, its a
    backup computer. So it stays off most of the time so the
    fan isn't being used.

    I run it on average about once a week for updates and scans
    and I do mrimgs on the 1st of the month

    I still have the fan just in case ,... and I will clean it.

    Robert





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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Mar 30 13:02:24 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 3/29/2025 8:21 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Also, on reflection, the 780 isn't used all that much, its a
    backup computer. So it stays off most of the time so the
    fan isn't being used.

    I run it on average about once a week for updates and scans
    and I do mrimgs on the 1st of the month

    I still have the fan just in case ,... and I will clean it.

    Robert

    I try to provide some background information,
    so you have some feeling for the procedure.

    Few people are so ham-fisted, to make a real mess of it
    (get the paste down into the socket pin area).

    As long as you limit yourself to "rice-grain or half-rice-grain"
    applications of material, there is little chance of damage.

    But if you're going to undo those two screws on the CPU section,
    I want you to be prepared, and have the materials on hand,
    to do the reassembly. Even if you didn't replace the fan,
    and just cleaned it, there would still be the issue of
    buttering the CPU again before reassembly.

    Because the 65W E7500 in the 780 is actually a 36W processor,
    it's unlikely to overheat. Part of the reason the
    case needs airflow, is for the rest of the components
    in the computer. Like if your video card does not have
    a fan, a little air passing by could help it.

    Paul





    Thankfully my mechanic managed to get the car running
    normally again. However, I still need to replace the
    distributor. So,I've ordered a new one.

    I'll get the alcohol tomorrow and install the fan in the
    780 and you can guide me to the place of the thermal paste.

    btw can I squeeze some thermal paste onto a piece of
    plastic and use a toothpick to apply it?

    Robert


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Mar 30 17:56:39 2025
    On Sun, 3/30/2025 7:25 AM, Robert in CA wrote:


    I understand,.. I'm just a bit afraid of frying the 780 maybe if I took
    it step by step and sent you pictures of how I applied the paste and
    the test fit etc. and then you can OK it then maybe I could do it that
    way.

    Could I leave the final thermal paste on until you OK it. It won't harden
    or anything? It would mean leaving the 780 open for awhile. What type
    of pattern do you suggest? If it's a compression fit then nothing should
    be near the edges correct?

    https://postimg.cc/y3YbFgf1

    https://postimg.cc/gx6BqPKZ

    https://postimg.cc/sGXTBFX1

    https://postimg.cc/gxRNLHYy

    I still need to get isopropyl alcohol and do I use coffee filters to clean ?

    On top of everything else I have car problems.

    I had replaced nearly everything there was to replace just because I
    wanted to so it would last longer like with the computers and yet
    when drove it to Walgreen's it stalled on me. I had to leave it and walk home.

    It spent the night there and we got it back home the next day. It
    apparently needed a new distributor which I bought and my mechanic
    (who lives across from me) installed. However the car doesn't run
    right afterwards,.. it lurches forward and the check light comes on/off. I could never get it into high gear and I barely made it to the store and
    back. I could only drive in lurching in the low gears. So he's going to
    look at it again tomorrow and hopefully find what's wrong. So I need to
    get the car running to get the alcohol or next time I go to the store.

    Actually, we replaced the video card and  it does have a fan on it.

    https://postimg.cc/gn91rjpZ

    I have to say the design of the 780 has something to be desired where you have to remove the heatsink to change a fan. It would of been better to make separate screws for each.

    Robert

    To get the applicator to work, it will apply a minimal amount
    or it will apply nothing. If you use a large number of dots,
    then the total quantity of materials will be a little on the high side.

    These patterns are fun and all, but the total amount of
    material applied by the pattern must also be considered.

    That's why doing one dot of paste, and fitting the heatsink
    and doing up the screws, then take the screws out again, you
    can look at the result, and decide for yourself, how many
    dots that size would be too much. Even my five dot pattern
    may be too much then.

    If you haven't installed a CPU before, then I suggest a test
    fitting and just one dot, to see how much total materials
    might be needed (if the coverage wasn't enough). You are doing
    a one-dot test, because you don't want to waste too much
    materials during a test fitting. The pattern (oval or circular
    spread) tells you how sensitive the thing is to patterns.

    *******

    I find isopropyl helps during cleanup processes. There might be
    better chemicals, but isopropyl is reasonably safe.

    *******

    If you look down at the side of the 780 shroud, you can see whether
    the screw is going through the hole in the PCB and meeting with
    the matching end underneath the PCB. Otherwise, you may find
    the screw won't tighten up, and it's because the items
    aren't aligned well enough for the thread to pick up.
    One screw hole will be easier to see than the other.

    And the Dell isn't that bad as heatsink screws go. Some
    of the ones I have here, take *ten minutes* to align,
    and you have to get your fingers underneath the assemblies
    and feel for the parts you are trying to screw together.
    The third party ones can be a real pain in the ass. The
    780 won't be anywhere near that bad. It's the big heatsinks,
    like a cube nine inches on edge, that are hard to get
    back into place. Only "your hands can see" on those.

    Paul

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Mar 30 23:00:15 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 3/30/2025 4:02 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Thankfully my mechanic managed to get the car running
    normally again. However, I still need to replace the
    distributor. So,I've ordered a new one.

    I'll get the alcohol tomorrow and install the fan in the
    780 and you can guide me to the place of the thermal paste.

    btw can I squeeze some thermal paste onto a piece of
    plastic and use a toothpick to apply it?

    Robert

    It should be applied directly, to not waste it.

    Enough of the stuff gets wasted on false starts.

    If you want to "practice", then flip up the heatsink
    portion and try and apply a half grain. Wipe off, if you
    are happy with the result. The surfaces don't have
    to be entirely clean, when you are tinting a surface,
    the stuff is damn hard to remove, and you can end up
    using some isopropyl anyway. It's easier to clean up
    the heatsink, if you're just practicing your "Make a
    half-grain" test dot. Cleaning the CPU is more complicated,
    by comparison.

    The paste goes on the CPU top, and the heatsink
    is then lowered onto the result, to spread it around.
    The pressure of screwing the heatsink down,
    spreads it, and hopefully, without air gaps.

    That's why this has any "ceremony" to it, it is an
    attempt to avoid trapping air into the paste. This
    is why we no longer spread the paste around with
    a credit card, because the credit card method trapped
    air underneath during the fitting of the heatsink.
    Using dots, the dots spread. Using more than one
    dot, the "circles" of material join, and the flow
    "tends" to push air outwards.

    Your processors (just like my E8400) are low power.
    The E7500 on the Dell 780, is one of the lowest
    power desktop processors of that era. Only 36 watts.
    (I measured them, that's how I know that number.)
    Only if you forgot the paste entirely, is there any
    chance at all of it overheating. Just one dot of
    paste would be enough to cool it. But worrying about
    details is "the acquiring of a skill". Some day,
    you could own a 200 watt processor, and then you
    really need to do the job properly. And you've already
    practiced doing it the right way, on your 36 watt processor.

    Paul



    OIC ,.. so my pics of different application dots is all wrong,,
    I just put a dot in the middle? or maybe 3? I'm trying to figure
    out how much to use.

    So I do my tests on the underside of the heat sink and if satisfied
    wipe it off. Then clean the CPU and heatsink and apply the thermal
    paste and screw it down (with or without the top cover?)Then I remove
    it again to see the results (if it spread). If your satisfied with it,
    then I'll clean and repeat it for the final time. (do I really use
    coffee filter to clean with?)

    If I don't have to screw down the cover could I just screw down
    the CPU and leave the cover loose so if I have to change the fan
    again I don't have to go through this?

    On reflection, I think I'll wait until after I do the mrimgs before I
    change the fan on the 780.

    Thanks,
    Robert


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Mon Mar 31 03:07:20 2025
    On Mon, 3/31/2025 2:00 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 3/30/2025 4:02 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Thankfully my mechanic managed to get the car running
    normally again. However, I still need to replace the
    distributor. So,I've ordered a new one.

    I'll get the alcohol tomorrow and install the fan in the
    780 and you can guide me to the place of the thermal paste.

    btw can I squeeze some thermal paste onto a piece of
    plastic and use a toothpick to apply it?

    Robert

    It should be applied directly, to not waste it.

    Enough of the stuff gets wasted on false starts.

    If you want to "practice", then flip up the heatsink
    portion and try and apply a half grain. Wipe off, if you
    are happy with the result. The surfaces don't have
    to be entirely clean, when you are tinting a surface,
    the stuff is damn hard to remove, and you can end up
    using some isopropyl anyway. It's easier to clean up
    the heatsink, if you're just practicing your "Make a
    half-grain" test dot. Cleaning the CPU is more complicated,
    by comparison.

    The paste goes on the CPU top, and the heatsink
    is then lowered onto the result, to spread it around.
    The pressure of screwing the heatsink down,
    spreads it, and hopefully, without air gaps.

    That's why this has any "ceremony" to it, it is an
    attempt to avoid trapping air into the paste. This
    is why we no longer spread the paste around with
    a credit card, because the credit card method trapped
    air underneath during the fitting of the heatsink.
    Using dots, the dots spread. Using more than one
    dot, the "circles" of material join, and the flow
    "tends" to push air outwards.

    Your processors (just like my E8400) are low power.
    The E7500 on the Dell 780, is one of the lowest
    power desktop processors of that era. Only 36 watts.
    (I measured them, that's how I know that number.)
    Only if you forgot the paste entirely, is there any
    chance at all of it overheating. Just one dot of
    paste would be enough to cool it. But worrying about
    details is "the acquiring of a skill". Some day,
    you could own a 200 watt processor, and then you
    really need to do the job properly. And you've already
    practiced doing it the right way, on your 36 watt processor.

        Paul



    OIC ,.. so my pics of different application dots is all wrong,,
    I just put a dot in the middle? or maybe 3? I'm trying to figure
    out how much to use.

    So I do my tests on the underside of the heat sink and if satisfied
    wipe it off. Then clean the CPU and heatsink and apply the thermal
    paste and screw it down (with or without the top cover?)Then I remove
    it again to see the results (if it spread). If your satisfied with it, then I'll clean and repeat it for the final time. (do I really use coffee filter to clean with?)

    If I don't have to screw down the cover could I just screw down
    the CPU and leave the cover loose so if I have to change the fan
    again I don't have to go through this?

    On reflection, I think I'll wait until after I do the mrimgs before I
    change the fan on the 780.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The cover routes the air through the cooler fins.

    When you are putting it together for the last time,
    all parts of it have to be present. Even though it's
    a bunch of parts, it is an integrated assembly that
    does not work right, without all the parts. The
    fan frame holds the fan. The CPU frame holds the
    CPU heatsink and fins. And the CPU frame provides
    the compression force, to keep the heatsink pressed
    against the CPU.

    The CPU lever arm, keeps the CPU pressed against the
    spring contacts.

    You can empirically learn how to fit it. The test fittings
    are to help calibrate your technique, so you don't
    apply too much paste. I think the odds of you making
    buttered toast in there, are pretty low. But I've dealt
    with people who insist on overdoing it.

    The purpose of the paste, is to displace the air in the gap.
    Paste is a better conductor of heat, than air is.

    Only enough paste need populate the gap, to keep the air out.

    That's why you apply a half-grain, do a test fitting, tighten
    the two CPU screws, undo it, and check. If it looks like
    it took up 75% of the space (as a "circle of paste"),
    then you know you need 33% more (4/3) to bring the circle to full
    size.

    If the paste does not form a circle when squished down
    by the screwed-on heatsink, then you know there is a convex
    part in there, a mis-shapen detail, and you only need
    a slight bit more paste in the unfilled
    direction to finish the job. The Arctic Silver PDF
    document, tells you why the shape they selected is being
    used. But in my opinion, applying in a line is a mistake,
    because it is very hard for the operator to make a thin
    enough line. It's a dosing issue, some of those patterns.
    Just as i indicated, making a million small dots is hard
    to do, because it is difficult to control the making of
    very small dots.

    You can clean it off with a paper towel. It's a 36W CPU.
    the details don't matter that much. It might even survive
    without paste at all, but that's not worth the risk.
    It is a lot easier to clean AS5, if the paper towel has
    a bit of isopropyl on it.

    Bottom line, just keep debris out of the socket area.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Mar 30 20:34:52 2025
    On Sun, 3/30/2025 4:02 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Thankfully my mechanic managed to get the car running
    normally again. However, I still need to replace the
    distributor. So,I've ordered a new one.

    I'll get the alcohol tomorrow and install the fan in the
    780 and you can guide me to the place of the thermal paste.

    btw can I squeeze some thermal paste onto a piece of
    plastic and use a toothpick to apply it?

    Robert

    It should be applied directly, to not waste it.

    Enough of the stuff gets wasted on false starts.

    If you want to "practice", then flip up the heatsink
    portion and try and apply a half grain. Wipe off, if you
    are happy with the result. The surfaces don't have
    to be entirely clean, when you are tinting a surface,
    the stuff is damn hard to remove, and you can end up
    using some isopropyl anyway. It's easier to clean up
    the heatsink, if you're just practicing your "Make a
    half-grain" test dot. Cleaning the CPU is more complicated,
    by comparison.

    The paste goes on the CPU top, and the heatsink
    is then lowered onto the result, to spread it around.
    The pressure of screwing the heatsink down,
    spreads it, and hopefully, without air gaps.

    That's why this has any "ceremony" to it, it is an
    attempt to avoid trapping air into the paste. This
    is why we no longer spread the paste around with
    a credit card, because the credit card method trapped
    air underneath during the fitting of the heatsink.
    Using dots, the dots spread. Using more than one
    dot, the "circles" of material join, and the flow
    "tends" to push air outwards.

    Your processors (just like my E8400) are low power.
    The E7500 on the Dell 780, is one of the lowest
    power desktop processors of that era. Only 36 watts.
    (I measured them, that's how I know that number.)
    Only if you forgot the paste entirely, is there any
    chance at all of it overheating. Just one dot of
    paste would be enough to cool it. But worrying about
    details is "the acquiring of a skill". Some day,
    you could own a 200 watt processor, and then you
    really need to do the job properly. And you've already
    practiced doing it the right way, on your 36 watt processor.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Mar 31 04:27:50 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 3/31/2025 2:00 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 3/30/2025 4:02 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Thankfully my mechanic managed to get the car running
    normally again. However, I still need to replace the
    distributor. So,I've ordered a new one.

    I'll get the alcohol tomorrow and install the fan in the
    780 and you can guide me to the place of the thermal paste.

    btw can I squeeze some thermal paste onto a piece of
    plastic and use a toothpick to apply it?

    Robert

    It should be applied directly, to not waste it.

    Enough of the stuff gets wasted on false starts.

    If you want to "practice", then flip up the heatsink
    portion and try and apply a half grain. Wipe off, if you
    are happy with the result. The surfaces don't have
    to be entirely clean, when you are tinting a surface,
    the stuff is damn hard to remove, and you can end up
    using some isopropyl anyway. It's easier to clean up
    the heatsink, if you're just practicing your "Make a
    half-grain" test dot. Cleaning the CPU is more complicated,
    by comparison.

    The paste goes on the CPU top, and the heatsink
    is then lowered onto the result, to spread it around.
    The pressure of screwing the heatsink down,
    spreads it, and hopefully, without air gaps.

    That's why this has any "ceremony" to it, it is an
    attempt to avoid trapping air into the paste. This
    is why we no longer spread the paste around with
    a credit card, because the credit card method trapped
    air underneath during the fitting of the heatsink.
    Using dots, the dots spread. Using more than one
    dot, the "circles" of material join, and the flow
    "tends" to push air outwards.

    Your processors (just like my E8400) are low power.
    The E7500 on the Dell 780, is one of the lowest
    power desktop processors of that era. Only 36 watts.
    (I measured them, that's how I know that number.)
    Only if you forgot the paste entirely, is there any
    chance at all of it overheating. Just one dot of
    paste would be enough to cool it. But worrying about
    details is "the acquiring of a skill". Some day,
    you could own a 200 watt processor, and then you
    really need to do the job properly. And you've already
    practiced doing it the right way, on your 36 watt processor.

        Paul



    OIC ,.. so my pics of different application dots is all wrong,,
    I just put a dot in the middle? or maybe 3? I'm trying to figure
    out how much to use.

    So I do my tests on the underside of the heat sink and if satisfied
    wipe it off. Then clean the CPU and heatsink and apply the thermal
    paste and screw it down (with or without the top cover?)Then I remove
    it again to see the results (if it spread). If your satisfied with it, then I'll clean and repeat it for the final time. (do I really use coffee filter to clean with?)

    If I don't have to screw down the cover could I just screw down
    the CPU and leave the cover loose so if I have to change the fan
    again I don't have to go through this?

    On reflection, I think I'll wait until after I do the mrimgs before I
    change the fan on the 780.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The cover routes the air through the cooler fins.

    When you are putting it together for the last time,
    all parts of it have to be present. Even though it's
    a bunch of parts, it is an integrated assembly that
    does not work right, without all the parts. The
    fan frame holds the fan. The CPU frame holds the
    CPU heatsink and fins. And the CPU frame provides
    the compression force, to keep the heatsink pressed
    against the CPU.

    The CPU lever arm, keeps the CPU pressed against the
    spring contacts.

    You can empirically learn how to fit it. The test fittings
    are to help calibrate your technique, so you don't
    apply too much paste. I think the odds of you making
    buttered toast in there, are pretty low. But I've dealt
    with people who insist on overdoing it.

    The purpose of the paste, is to displace the air in the gap.
    Paste is a better conductor of heat, than air is.

    Only enough paste need populate the gap, to keep the air out.

    That's why you apply a half-grain, do a test fitting, tighten
    the two CPU screws, undo it, and check. If it looks like
    it took up 75% of the space (as a "circle of paste"),
    then you know you need 33% more (4/3) to bring the circle to full
    size.

    If the paste does not form a circle when squished down
    by the screwed-on heatsink, then you know there is a convex
    part in there, a mis-shapen detail, and you only need
    a slight bit more paste in the unfilled
    direction to finish the job. The Arctic Silver PDF
    document, tells you why the shape they selected is being
    used. But in my opinion, applying in a line is a mistake,
    because it is very hard for the operator to make a thin
    enough line. It's a dosing issue, some of those patterns.
    Just as i indicated, making a million small dots is hard
    to do, because it is difficult to control the making of
    very small dots.

    You can clean it off with a paper towel. It's a 36W CPU.
    the details don't matter that much. It might even survive
    without paste at all, but that's not worth the risk.
    It is a lot easier to clean AS5, if the paper towel has
    a bit of isopropyl on it.

    Bottom line, just keep debris out of the socket area.

    Paul



    Understood,.. lets hope all goes well

    Robert

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Mar 31 04:55:29 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 3/31/2025 2:00 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 3/30/2025 4:02 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Thankfully my mechanic managed to get the car running
    normally again. However, I still need to replace the
    distributor. So,I've ordered a new one.

    I'll get the alcohol tomorrow and install the fan in the
    780 and you can guide me to the place of the thermal paste.

    btw can I squeeze some thermal paste onto a piece of
    plastic and use a toothpick to apply it?

    Robert

    It should be applied directly, to not waste it.

    Enough of the stuff gets wasted on false starts.

    If you want to "practice", then flip up the heatsink
    portion and try and apply a half grain. Wipe off, if you
    are happy with the result. The surfaces don't have
    to be entirely clean, when you are tinting a surface,
    the stuff is damn hard to remove, and you can end up
    using some isopropyl anyway. It's easier to clean up
    the heatsink, if you're just practicing your "Make a
    half-grain" test dot. Cleaning the CPU is more complicated,
    by comparison.

    The paste goes on the CPU top, and the heatsink
    is then lowered onto the result, to spread it around.
    The pressure of screwing the heatsink down,
    spreads it, and hopefully, without air gaps.

    That's why this has any "ceremony" to it, it is an
    attempt to avoid trapping air into the paste. This
    is why we no longer spread the paste around with
    a credit card, because the credit card method trapped
    air underneath during the fitting of the heatsink.
    Using dots, the dots spread. Using more than one
    dot, the "circles" of material join, and the flow
    "tends" to push air outwards.

    Your processors (just like my E8400) are low power.
    The E7500 on the Dell 780, is one of the lowest
    power desktop processors of that era. Only 36 watts.
    (I measured them, that's how I know that number.)
    Only if you forgot the paste entirely, is there any
    chance at all of it overheating. Just one dot of
    paste would be enough to cool it. But worrying about
    details is "the acquiring of a skill". Some day,
    you could own a 200 watt processor, and then you
    really need to do the job properly. And you've already
    practiced doing it the right way, on your 36 watt processor.

        Paul



    OIC ,.. so my pics of different application dots is all wrong,,
    I just put a dot in the middle? or maybe 3? I'm trying to figure
    out how much to use.

    So I do my tests on the underside of the heat sink and if satisfied
    wipe it off. Then clean the CPU and heatsink and apply the thermal
    paste and screw it down (with or without the top cover?)Then I remove
    it again to see the results (if it spread). If your satisfied with it, then I'll clean and repeat it for the final time. (do I really use coffee filter to clean with?)

    If I don't have to screw down the cover could I just screw down
    the CPU and leave the cover loose so if I have to change the fan
    again I don't have to go through this?

    On reflection, I think I'll wait until after I do the mrimgs before I
    change the fan on the 780.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The cover routes the air through the cooler fins.

    When you are putting it together for the last time,
    all parts of it have to be present. Even though it's
    a bunch of parts, it is an integrated assembly that
    does not work right, without all the parts. The
    fan frame holds the fan. The CPU frame holds the
    CPU heatsink and fins. And the CPU frame provides
    the compression force, to keep the heatsink pressed
    against the CPU.

    The CPU lever arm, keeps the CPU pressed against the
    spring contacts.

    You can empirically learn how to fit it. The test fittings
    are to help calibrate your technique, so you don't
    apply too much paste. I think the odds of you making
    buttered toast in there, are pretty low. But I've dealt
    with people who insist on overdoing it.

    The purpose of the paste, is to displace the air in the gap.
    Paste is a better conductor of heat, than air is.

    Only enough paste need populate the gap, to keep the air out.

    That's why you apply a half-grain, do a test fitting, tighten
    the two CPU screws, undo it, and check. If it looks like
    it took up 75% of the space (as a "circle of paste"),
    then you know you need 33% more (4/3) to bring the circle to full
    size.

    If the paste does not form a circle when squished down
    by the screwed-on heatsink, then you know there is a convex
    part in there, a mis-shapen detail, and you only need
    a slight bit more paste in the unfilled
    direction to finish the job. The Arctic Silver PDF
    document, tells you why the shape they selected is being
    used. But in my opinion, applying in a line is a mistake,
    because it is very hard for the operator to make a thin
    enough line. It's a dosing issue, some of those patterns.
    Just as i indicated, making a million small dots is hard
    to do, because it is difficult to control the making of
    very small dots.

    You can clean it off with a paper towel. It's a 36W CPU.
    the details don't matter that much. It might even survive
    without paste at all, but that's not worth the risk.
    It is a lot easier to clean AS5, if the paper towel has
    a bit of isopropyl on it.

    Bottom line, just keep debris out of the socket area.

    Paul



    Just curious,. could you tell me what this is ?

    https://postimg.cc/0MN0W44p

    I'm wondering if the heatsink has a similar clip? How to remove it?

    It seems I need to slide the cover away from the fan once unscrewed
    to release the fan from the tabs.

    Robert


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Apr 1 01:34:56 2025
    On Mon, 3/31/2025 7:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Just curious,. could you tell me what this is ?

    https://postimg.cc/0MN0W44p

    I'm wondering if the heatsink has a similar clip? How to remove it?

    It seems I need to slide the cover away from the fan once unscrewed
    to release the fan from the tabs.

    Robert

    That's a spring to hold on the Northbridge heatsink.

    On some computers of that era, if the spring falls off,
    it breaks an electrical circuit between the two inverted-U
    retainers, and the computer stops. That could be one reason
    the U-shaped retainers are made of the wrong metal -- the
    metal was selected to make the electrical checking circuit
    to work, and less so for the solder to stick to it and
    hold the spring into place.

    I think I've seen the secondary side of one motherboard
    from that era, where the U-shaped retainers had their legs
    bent, so the U-shaped part could not escape. And that is
    the proper way to do those. But many other boards, the U-retainer
    is poked in, and it will fall off if the solder fails. The legs
    are not formed, for retention.

    It's really all too funny, that stupid design. Intel
    made the design, and recommended it to the manufacturers.

    If you look today, you should not be seeing that any more.
    On 40mm heatsinks, they use plastic push pins on two corners
    and the push pins have a coil spring to set the
    level of Normal Force.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Mar 31 20:48:54 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 3/31/2025 2:00 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 3/30/2025 4:02 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Thankfully my mechanic managed to get the car running
    normally again. However, I still need to replace the
    distributor. So,I've ordered a new one.

    I'll get the alcohol tomorrow and install the fan in the
    780 and you can guide me to the place of the thermal paste.

    btw can I squeeze some thermal paste onto a piece of
    plastic and use a toothpick to apply it?

    Robert

    It should be applied directly, to not waste it.

    Enough of the stuff gets wasted on false starts.

    If you want to "practice", then flip up the heatsink
    portion and try and apply a half grain. Wipe off, if you
    are happy with the result. The surfaces don't have
    to be entirely clean, when you are tinting a surface,
    the stuff is damn hard to remove, and you can end up
    using some isopropyl anyway. It's easier to clean up
    the heatsink, if you're just practicing your "Make a
    half-grain" test dot. Cleaning the CPU is more complicated,
    by comparison.

    The paste goes on the CPU top, and the heatsink
    is then lowered onto the result, to spread it around.
    The pressure of screwing the heatsink down,
    spreads it, and hopefully, without air gaps.

    That's why this has any "ceremony" to it, it is an
    attempt to avoid trapping air into the paste. This
    is why we no longer spread the paste around with
    a credit card, because the credit card method trapped
    air underneath during the fitting of the heatsink.
    Using dots, the dots spread. Using more than one
    dot, the "circles" of material join, and the flow
    "tends" to push air outwards.

    Your processors (just like my E8400) are low power.
    The E7500 on the Dell 780, is one of the lowest
    power desktop processors of that era. Only 36 watts.
    (I measured them, that's how I know that number.)
    Only if you forgot the paste entirely, is there any
    chance at all of it overheating. Just one dot of
    paste would be enough to cool it. But worrying about
    details is "the acquiring of a skill". Some day,
    you could own a 200 watt processor, and then you
    really need to do the job properly. And you've already
    practiced doing it the right way, on your 36 watt processor.

        Paul



    OIC ,.. so my pics of different application dots is all wrong,,
    I just put a dot in the middle? or maybe 3? I'm trying to figure
    out how much to use.

    So I do my tests on the underside of the heat sink and if satisfied
    wipe it off. Then clean the CPU and heatsink and apply the thermal
    paste and screw it down (with or without the top cover?)Then I remove
    it again to see the results (if it spread). If your satisfied with it, then I'll clean and repeat it for the final time. (do I really use coffee filter to clean with?)

    If I don't have to screw down the cover could I just screw down
    the CPU and leave the cover loose so if I have to change the fan
    again I don't have to go through this?

    On reflection, I think I'll wait until after I do the mrimgs before I
    change the fan on the 780.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    The cover routes the air through the cooler fins.

    When you are putting it together for the last time,
    all parts of it have to be present. Even though it's
    a bunch of parts, it is an integrated assembly that
    does not work right, without all the parts. The
    fan frame holds the fan. The CPU frame holds the
    CPU heatsink and fins. And the CPU frame provides
    the compression force, to keep the heatsink pressed
    against the CPU.

    The CPU lever arm, keeps the CPU pressed against the
    spring contacts.

    You can empirically learn how to fit it. The test fittings
    are to help calibrate your technique, so you don't
    apply too much paste. I think the odds of you making
    buttered toast in there, are pretty low. But I've dealt
    with people who insist on overdoing it.

    The purpose of the paste, is to displace the air in the gap.
    Paste is a better conductor of heat, than air is.

    Only enough paste need populate the gap, to keep the air out.

    That's why you apply a half-grain, do a test fitting, tighten
    the two CPU screws, undo it, and check. If it looks like
    it took up 75% of the space (as a "circle of paste"),
    then you know you need 33% more (4/3) to bring the circle to full
    size.

    If the paste does not form a circle when squished down
    by the screwed-on heatsink, then you know there is a convex
    part in there, a mis-shapen detail, and you only need
    a slight bit more paste in the unfilled
    direction to finish the job. The Arctic Silver PDF
    document, tells you why the shape they selected is being
    used. But in my opinion, applying in a line is a mistake,
    because it is very hard for the operator to make a thin
    enough line. It's a dosing issue, some of those patterns.
    Just as i indicated, making a million small dots is hard
    to do, because it is difficult to control the making of
    very small dots.

    You can clean it off with a paper towel. It's a 36W CPU.
    the details don't matter that much. It might even survive
    without paste at all, but that's not worth the risk.
    It is a lot easier to clean AS5, if the paper towel has
    a bit of isopropyl on it.

    Bottom line, just keep debris out of the socket area.

    Paul



    Actually, after thinking about it the cover and fan
    should come off as one piece because the fan is held
    on with the tabs.

    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Apr 1 01:50:50 2025
    On Mon, 3/31/2025 11:48 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Actually, after thinking about it the cover and fan
    should come off as one piece because the fan is held
    on with the tabs.

    Robert


    It could be the way it is, because there are multiple
    versions of the heatsink part. A 65W processor gets
    a small heatsink. A 95W processor gets a larger
    heatsink. The larger one might be copper, the smaller
    one aluminum. By having the two parts separable,
    you can do an upgrade on the CPU, and fit a new CPU
    and a new heatsink half, and the fan can be the same.
    Since the fan max output is 150 CFM, that fan is so
    powerful it would clean your carpet. Any cooling task,
    it has the horsepower :-) The fan speed is programmable.

    The fan on the computer I'm typing on, is about 35 CFM,
    and about one quarter of the rating. But the heatsink
    on my PC is a bit larger than the 780 one, and it has
    a ton of surface area. That is part of the reason it
    doesn't need quite as much fan output.

    The cooler on the 8500, I think that is the Intel boxed
    cooler, and it isn't a Dell Special. That's a slightly
    different philosophy from the Optiplex 780 BTX.

    Dell did some of these things, to encourage you to do
    business with them.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Apr 1 13:09:14 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 3/31/2025 7:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Just curious,. could you tell me what this is ?

    https://postimg.cc/0MN0W44p

    I'm wondering if the heatsink has a similar clip? How to remove it?

    It seems I need to slide the cover away from the fan once unscrewed
    to release the fan from the tabs.

    Robert

    That's a spring to hold on the Northbridge heatsink.

    On some computers of that era, if the spring falls off,
    it breaks an electrical circuit between the two inverted-U
    retainers, and the computer stops. That could be one reason
    the U-shaped retainers are made of the wrong metal -- the
    metal was selected to make the electrical checking circuit
    to work, and less so for the solder to stick to it and
    hold the spring into place.

    I think I've seen the secondary side of one motherboard
    from that era, where the U-shaped retainers had their legs
    bent, so the U-shaped part could not escape. And that is
    the proper way to do those. But many other boards, the U-retainer
    is poked in, and it will fall off if the solder fails. The legs
    are not formed, for retention.

    It's really all too funny, that stupid design. Intel
    made the design, and recommended it to the manufacturers.

    If you look today, you should not be seeing that any more.
    On 40mm heatsinks, they use plastic push pins on two corners
    and the push pins have a coil spring to set the
    level of Normal Force.

    Paul



    I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
    was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.

    I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
    I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.

    Robert


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Apr 1 11:42:47 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 3/31/2025 7:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Just curious,. could you tell me what this is ?

    https://postimg.cc/0MN0W44p

    I'm wondering if the heatsink has a similar clip? How to remove it?

    It seems I need to slide the cover away from the fan once unscrewed
    to release the fan from the tabs.

    Robert

    That's a spring to hold on the Northbridge heatsink.

    On some computers of that era, if the spring falls off,
    it breaks an electrical circuit between the two inverted-U
    retainers, and the computer stops. That could be one reason
    the U-shaped retainers are made of the wrong metal -- the
    metal was selected to make the electrical checking circuit
    to work, and less so for the solder to stick to it and
    hold the spring into place.

    I think I've seen the secondary side of one motherboard
    from that era, where the U-shaped retainers had their legs
    bent, so the U-shaped part could not escape. And that is
    the proper way to do those. But many other boards, the U-retainer
    is poked in, and it will fall off if the solder fails. The legs
    are not formed, for retention.

    It's really all too funny, that stupid design. Intel
    made the design, and recommended it to the manufacturers.

    If you look today, you should not be seeing that any more.
    On 40mm heatsinks, they use plastic push pins on two corners
    and the push pins have a coil spring to set the
    level of Normal Force.

    Paul


    I opened up the 780 and unscrewed the heatsink cover but it
    didn't come off but pivoted forward. It was pretty dirty so I
    used the mini-vac and alcohol to clean as best I could.
    However, I couldn't remove the fan. I tried for 30 minutes
    trying to get it off but couldn't. It seems like it was made not to
    come off.

    Then I cleaned the heatsink and CPU and it looked like there wasn't
    much there. I applied the thermal paste then screwed it down
    and here's the pattern:

    https://postimg.cc/BtJFG154

    I cleaned it again and added a little bit more thermal paste and
    screwed it down and put everything back together.

    I haven't started the 780 since,. I'm waiting for your OK to see if it's alright to start it up and see if it works. I hope it does but I'm bummed
    that I could not get the fan out and believe me I tried.

    In passing, every time I boot the 780 recently I've been getting this screen popping up before the desktop:

    https://postimg.cc/R3cWkMNW

    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Apr 2 00:48:58 2025
    On Tue, 4/1/2025 2:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 3/31/2025 7:55 AM, RobnCA wrote:

    Just curious,. could you tell me what this is ?

    https://postimg.cc/0MN0W44p

    I'm wondering if the heatsink has a similar clip? How to remove it?

    It seems I need to slide the cover away from the fan once unscrewed
    to release the fan from the tabs.

    Robert

    That's a spring to hold on the Northbridge heatsink.

    On some computers of that era, if the spring falls off,
    it breaks an electrical circuit between the two inverted-U
    retainers, and the computer stops. That could be one reason
    the U-shaped retainers are made of the wrong metal -- the
    metal was selected to make the electrical checking circuit
    to work, and less so for the solder to stick to it and
    hold the spring into place.

    I think I've seen the secondary side of one motherboard
    from that era, where the U-shaped retainers had their legs
    bent, so the U-shaped part could not escape. And that is
    the proper way to do those. But many other boards, the U-retainer
    is poked in, and it will fall off if the solder fails. The legs
    are not formed, for retention.

    It's really all too funny, that stupid design. Intel
    made the design, and recommended it to the manufacturers.

    If you look today, you should not be seeing that any more.
    On 40mm heatsinks, they use plastic push pins on two corners
    and the push pins have a coil spring to set the
    level of Normal Force.

        Paul


    I opened up the 780 and unscrewed the heatsink cover but it
    didn't come off but  pivoted forward. It was pretty dirty so I
    used the mini-vac and alcohol to clean as best I could.
    However, I couldn't remove the fan. I tried for 30 minutes
    trying to get it off but couldn't. It seems like it was made not to
    come off.

    Then I cleaned the heatsink and CPU and it looked like there wasn't
    much there. I applied the thermal paste then screwed it down
    and here's the pattern:

    https://postimg.cc/BtJFG154

    I cleaned it again and added a little bit more thermal paste and
    screwed it down and put everything back together.

    I haven't started the 780 since,. I'm waiting for your OK to see if it's alright to start it up and see if  it works. I hope it does but I'm bummed that I could not get the fan out and believe me I tried.

    In passing, every time I boot the 780 recently I've been getting this screen popping up before the desktop:

    https://postimg.cc/R3cWkMNW

    Robert


    The plastic has two "forks" that go around a round pivot.
    While the CPU heatsink appears to "rotate up", you should
    be able to pull on it radially with respect to the pivot point.
    The "fork" has an open side and should come free.

    I think you're ready for a power-up and test.

    The second picture is a picture of the AVast Chrome browser
    (the "Secure Browser"), which may have received a software update
    to a newer version. However, note that on Windows 7, Chrome updates
    stopped a long time ago. (Firefox Updates are also close to over
    for Windows 7. There is an ESR version that may get a couple more
    updates for Firefox. And then the updates for browsers will have
    pretty well stopped for Windows 7.)

    You can check your AVast setup and disable the browser component
    and see if that removes it from the Startup folder or where ever
    they have put that.

    Paul

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Apr 2 01:22:23 2025
    On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
    was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.

    I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
    I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.

    Robert

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE

    Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
    There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the
    assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
    The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif

    The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
    the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 2 04:20:16 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
    was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.

    I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
    I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.

    Robert

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE

    Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
    There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
    The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif

    The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
    the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.

    Paul




    Believe me, I did pull on it radically, it should have come free but didn't
    and like I said I tried for 30 minutes to get it off. If I was going to
    unscrew
    the heatsink you can bet I tried getting it off to put the new fan on
    but it
    wouldn't budge. At least I was able to vacuum and clean it and did the
    thermal paste.

    I powered up the 780 and all looks normal and it's totally silent. I ran
    a full
    Avast scan on it.

    I checked the setting's on Avast but silence notifications is already
    checked.

    https://postimg.cc/N9K7yQwG

    I also had this message under notifications which I think is their way of wanting me to sign up for premium.

    https://postimg.cc/N5q7MhCY

    I decided to run a HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/fVWgLkMn

    https://postimg.cc/QBH4QPBf

    https://postimg.cc/5QMsM2sr


    Robert


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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 2 04:39:28 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
    was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.

    I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
    I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.

    Robert

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE

    Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
    There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
    The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif

    The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
    the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.

    Paul




    He had considerably more room to work than I did and my heatsink
    pivoted forward, it did not come off like his did. He was working in a
    bare frame where I had damn little room. I tried pressing down on the
    clip on the other side with a screwdriver but it didn't slide out. I got
    the one side loose with the tab but not the other.

    You want me to try again ?

    Robert


    --
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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 2 04:45:02 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
    was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.

    I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
    I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.

    Robert

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE

    Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
    There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
    The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif

    The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
    the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.

    Paul




    There's no way I can get in to release the tab like he did,.. he had
    nothing in the case to obstruct him. I have the heatsink and cover in
    the way plus all the other electronics.

    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 2 06:31:54 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
    was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.

    I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
    I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.

    Robert

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE

    Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
    There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
    The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif

    The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
    the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.

    Paul



    Success!! I opened the 780 again and used the longest
    screwdriver I had to lift the tab and the fan finally came
    loose.

    I cleaned the heatsink and CPU and re-applied the thermal
    paste.

    https://postimg.cc/t1RPzwCZ

    https://postimg.cc/njCDymmn

    Now all we have to do is the 8500 once the rear fan arrives.

    Many thanks
    Robert



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 2 09:45:17 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
    was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.

    I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
    I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.

    Robert

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE

    Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
    There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
    The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif

    The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
    the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.

    Paul



    Here's the 8500 heatsink/fan assembly

    https://postimg.cc/Kkchb46z

    https://postimg.cc/xJsD1nQP

    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 2 07:17:51 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
    was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.

    I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
    I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.

    Robert

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE

    Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
    There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
    The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif

    The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
    the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.

    Paul



    Once I had the fan out I cleaned the area before installing the new fan
    on the 780.

    Regarding the 8500,.. I'm wondering whether I should install a new heat
    and fan. You see it came all together as one unit. I was going to just
    remove the fan part but since I've done thermal pasting now I think you
    would recommend replacing the heat sink and fan as its one unit. I'm
    just nervous about doing it on the 8500, my main computer.

    However it should be allot easier than the 780 since there's no cover
    but what worries me is that it has (4) screws and I'm concerned about
    getting a proper fit with the thermal paste. The rear fan is no
    problem, just (4) screws into the grill.

    What do you think ?

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Apr 4 07:10:31 2025
    On Wed, 4/2/2025 10:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
    was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.

    I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
    I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.

    Robert

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE

    Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
    There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the
    assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
    The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif

    The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
    the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.

       Paul



    Once I had the fan out I cleaned the area before installing the new fan
    on the 780.

    Regarding the 8500,.. I'm wondering whether I should install a new heat
    and fan. You see it came all together as one unit. I was going to just remove the fan part but since I've done thermal pasting now I think you would recommend replacing the heat sink and fan as its one unit. I'm just nervous about doing it on the 8500,
    my main computer.

    However it should be allot easier than the 780 since there's no cover but what worries me is that it has (4) screws and I'm concerned about getting a proper fit with the thermal paste.  The rear fan is no problem, just (4) screws into the grill.

    What do you think ?

    Robert


    The 8500 design is closer to a boxed Intel solution.

    The fan on top unscrews without too much trouble.

    The heatsink has the four screws (or on retail CPUs
    the item might be plastic rotating pins). Working on
    stuff like that is generally OK... except in designs
    where the backplate falls off the back of the motherboard.
    My current computer has that limitation, so if I want
    to do heatsink work, the entire computer has to come
    apart (so I can lift out the motherboard, and hold my hand
    on the plate, during reassembly).

    I doubt yours will fall apart like that.

    When you buy an after-market cooler, the plates don't
    usually fall off on those :-) It's the machine with
    the AMD Wraith Stealth cooler, that the plate falls off.
    The Noctua ones don't usually fall off like that and are
    screwed to the back of the motherboard.

    You know how to calibrate your paste application, using
    a dot of paste. And adjusting the quantity for coverage.
    Or, looking at the "pattern" for indications something
    isn't flat. The 3770K is a 77W CPU, so I'm not too worried
    about the thing ending up entirely dry and without any paste
    at all. Even if you covered 75% of the area, that would be
    good enough. when the CPU is 250-350W, your workmanship
    has to be a bit better.

    One factor in heat sinking, is called the "spreading angle".
    You might notice in some of the adverts for AMD processors,
    they have a rather thick aluminum lid now. You do that sort
    of thing, if the CPU die is on the small side. The slab of
    aluminum spreads the heat out into a larger square of heat,
    so that when you put the heatsink on it, more of the heatsink
    metal is engaged in cooling. That's part of the reason you
    are seeing rather thick looking metal specimens while working
    on this stuff.

    Since you managed to process the 780 without a problem,
    I'm not too worried about the 8500 (from a skills perspective).
    I think the 8500 design is a little more reasonable, as it looks
    to me like it is an Intel boxed design (the same cooler that
    comes with the CPU, if you buy a CPU as a separate item at
    a computer store).

    High power CPUs, don't come with a boxed cooler. You buy the
    cooler separately, and it can have some nicer features.
    But a few I've worked on now, they're all the same, in that
    the damn screws won't engage - the thread doesn't grab during
    reassembly (turn and turn, and it does not grab). The screw is
    also spring-loaded, which does not help matters on those. When
    the screw is moderately tight, the spring prevents the pressing-down
    force from being too high. That's why those take me ten minutes
    to screw down. It takes a lot of tries, before the job is done.
    I am less likely to take those apart again :-)

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Apr 4 06:49:17 2025
    On Wed, 4/2/2025 7:39 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
    was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.

    I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
    I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.

    Robert

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE

    Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
    There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the
    assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
    The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif

    The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
    the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.

       Paul




    He had considerably more room to work than I did and my heatsink
    pivoted forward, it did not come off like his did. He was working in a
    bare frame where I had damn little room. I tried pressing down on the clip on the other side with a screwdriver but it didn't slide out. I got the one side loose with the tab but not the other.

    You want me to try again ?

    Robert

    I don't want you to break anything.

    If the CPU fan were to stop, THERMTRIP will shut off the
    PC because of the CPU temperature.

    You had a chance to clean while you were there, so that's
    good. That's an improvement.

    If the CPU fan fails, the machine will also stop during POST
    and complain, and make you enter the BIOS. You could check the
    hardware monitor screen (if the Dell 780 BIOS has one) and see
    that the CPU fan RPMs are zero.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Apr 4 06:44:39 2025
    On Wed, 4/2/2025 7:20 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
    was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.

    I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
    I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.

    Robert

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE

    Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
    There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the
    assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
    The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif

    The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
    the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.

       Paul




    Believe me, I did pull on it radically, it should have come free but didn't and like I said I tried for 30 minutes to get it off. If I was going to unscrew
    the heatsink you can bet I tried getting it off to put the new fan on but it wouldn't budge. At least I was able to vacuum and clean it and did the thermal paste.

    I powered up the 780 and all looks normal and it's totally silent. I ran a full
    Avast scan on it.

    I checked the setting's on Avast but silence notifications is already checked.

    https://postimg.cc/N9K7yQwG

    I also had this message under notifications which I think is their way of wanting me to sign up for premium.

    https://postimg.cc/N5q7MhCY

    I decided to run a HD-Tune

    https://postimg.cc/fVWgLkMn

    https://postimg.cc/QBH4QPBf

    https://postimg.cc/5QMsM2sr


    Robert

    The only way to make HDTune scans quieter, is to run
    them while the Macrium Rescue CD is booted. This seems
    to work best, with a 32-bit CD rather than the more
    normal 64-bit CD.

    In the example here, I tried to compare them, but there wasn't that
    much difference between environments. Using the Macrium CD did not
    make this result look all that much different. The second drive scanned,
    shows what a relatively young and healthy drive looks like. Not all brand
    new drives look that good.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/mrjZ8TcW/more-quiet-scan-not-much-different.gif

    That makes me think that maybe there is background CPU activity
    while you are making that scan of yours. Open Task Manager to the Performance option that shows the CPU activity, select graph per CPU core for the display option ( so you can see a bit better ), and while the HDTune scan is
    running, see if there is any activity on the CPU that doesn't seem reasonable.

    I don't really want to send you off on a mission to find
    expensive hard drives. And then you want the quiet ones, and
    the technically better drives are not as quiet. For example,
    the last HDD I bought, I call it "thumper" because it shakes
    the rack with its test pattern. That thing has eight or nine platters.
    The head assembly is a bit heavy.

    The unhealthy drive in the picture above, I don't think the heads have
    a landing ramp in there. That may account for all five of the ones I bought, being lemonade drives. Your drives have three platters, and such drives
    would be harder to make without a ramp. Generally if the drive is 1" tall, it'll have a ramp inside. it was the ones 0.8" high, I took one of those
    apart, and it didn't have a ramp in it. It got taken apart, because it
    was functionally failed.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Apr 4 07:27:25 2025
    On Wed, 4/2/2025 12:45 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
    was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.

    I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
    I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.

    Robert

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE

    Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
    There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the
    assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
    The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif

    The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
    the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.

       Paul



    Here's the 8500 heatsink/fan assembly

    https://postimg.cc/Kkchb46z

    https://postimg.cc/xJsD1nQP

    Robert


    That plastic is likely intended to be removed, before installation.
    That green plastic could be covering the real paste. Some of the
    covers like that, have text telling you to remove it.

    The screened-on material, in many cases is phase change TIM. It
    softens when it is really hot, and then it will flow over the
    top surface, and the heatsink will move closer to the CPU. That's
    a bit different than your grease-based AS5 and how it works.

    When material is screen-printed on a item like that, at least when
    I do them, when I first put the thing in place, I invariably make
    a mistake and have to take it apart. the paste gets scratched. In
    some cases, I end up removing the material (which is harder to remove
    than AS5) and putting the grease-based TIM on instead.

    In your case, you can take apart the old cooler, clean it off,
    and practice sitting it on top of the CPU, and checking how
    hard it is to tighten up, without the heatsink skating all over the
    place.

    One you are comfortable fitting the old one, you can take the green
    cover off the new cooler, fit it, and screw it down. The amount of
    paste should be precisely calibrated for proper coverage, so no
    "dot" activity or calibrating is required. You don't then want
    to take it apart again, if you can avoid it. That's why I would
    want you to rehearse with the old sink - I don't think much
    rehearsal is required, but I want you to be aware that a lot
    of the things i've reassembled (like video cards), I find that
    I mis-judged how easy it was, and I end up wasting quite a bit
    of paste fighting with the stupid thing. Rehearsing with an old
    dry heatsink, is cheaper.

    When fitting the fan, you might benefit from taking a picture
    of the assembly before you begin. The fan can be rotated, but
    one position may put less stress on the fan cable, or get in
    the way less, than other orientations. (Sometimes a fan cable
    gets pinched under the heatsink!) The cooling works better
    if the fan is blowing down on the cooler, than if it is pulling
    air upwards. The new fan should be fitted with the hub in the
    same orientation as the old one. (If the old label was upwards,
    the new label should be upwards.)

    In the past, I've taken fans and tested them with a 12V supply,
    felt the air movement (which side the air comes out), then take
    a Sharpie and put an arrow on the side of the fan frame, to mark
    airflow direction. That helps me verify, before power up,
    that I put the fan back on my machine, in the correct direction.
    But for yours, as long as you take a picture of the assembly,
    you'll have a reference for later if there are any questions.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Apr 4 09:05:59 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/2/2025 12:45 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
    was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.

    I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
    I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.

    Robert

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE

    Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
    There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the
    assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
    The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif

    The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
    the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.

       Paul



    Here's the 8500 heatsink/fan assembly

    https://postimg.cc/Kkchb46z

    https://postimg.cc/xJsD1nQP

    Robert


    That plastic is likely intended to be removed, before installation.
    That green plastic could be covering the real paste. Some of the
    covers like that, have text telling you to remove it.

    The screened-on material, in many cases is phase change TIM. It
    softens when it is really hot, and then it will flow over the
    top surface, and the heatsink will move closer to the CPU. That's
    a bit different than your grease-based AS5 and how it works.

    When material is screen-printed on a item like that, at least when
    I do them, when I first put the thing in place, I invariably make
    a mistake and have to take it apart. the paste gets scratched. In
    some cases, I end up removing the material (which is harder to remove
    than AS5) and putting the grease-based TIM on instead.

    In your case, you can take apart the old cooler, clean it off,
    and practice sitting it on top of the CPU, and checking how
    hard it is to tighten up, without the heatsink skating all over the
    place.

    One you are comfortable fitting the old one, you can take the green
    cover off the new cooler, fit it, and screw it down. The amount of
    paste should be precisely calibrated for proper coverage, so no
    "dot" activity or calibrating is required. You don't then want
    to take it apart again, if you can avoid it. That's why I would
    want you to rehearse with the old sink - I don't think much
    rehearsal is required, but I want you to be aware that a lot
    of the things i've reassembled (like video cards), I find that
    I mis-judged how easy it was, and I end up wasting quite a bit
    of paste fighting with the stupid thing. Rehearsing with an old
    dry heatsink, is cheaper.

    When fitting the fan, you might benefit from taking a picture
    of the assembly before you begin. The fan can be rotated, but
    one position may put less stress on the fan cable, or get in
    the way less, than other orientations. (Sometimes a fan cable
    gets pinched under the heatsink!) The cooling works better
    if the fan is blowing down on the cooler, than if it is pulling
    air upwards. The new fan should be fitted with the hub in the
    same orientation as the old one. (If the old label was upwards,
    the new label should be upwards.)

    In the past, I've taken fans and tested them with a 12V supply,
    felt the air movement (which side the air comes out), then take
    a Sharpie and put an arrow on the side of the fan frame, to mark
    airflow direction. That helps me verify, before power up,
    that I put the fan back on my machine, in the correct direction.
    But for yours, as long as you take a picture of the assembly,
    you'll have a reference for later if there are any questions.

    Paul




    I checked the heatsink/fan assembly if the label
    was up on the fan or not. It was down and so is
    the new one. So I should be good to go.

    Robert


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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Apr 4 08:32:28 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/2/2025 12:45 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
    was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.

    I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
    I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.

    Robert

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE

    Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
    There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the
    assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
    The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif

    The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
    the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.

       Paul



    Here's the 8500 heatsink/fan assembly

    https://postimg.cc/Kkchb46z

    https://postimg.cc/xJsD1nQP

    Robert


    That plastic is likely intended to be removed, before installation.
    That green plastic could be covering the real paste. Some of the
    covers like that, have text telling you to remove it.

    The screened-on material, in many cases is phase change TIM. It
    softens when it is really hot, and then it will flow over the
    top surface, and the heatsink will move closer to the CPU. That's
    a bit different than your grease-based AS5 and how it works.

    When material is screen-printed on a item like that, at least when
    I do them, when I first put the thing in place, I invariably make
    a mistake and have to take it apart. the paste gets scratched. In
    some cases, I end up removing the material (which is harder to remove
    than AS5) and putting the grease-based TIM on instead.

    In your case, you can take apart the old cooler, clean it off,
    and practice sitting it on top of the CPU, and checking how
    hard it is to tighten up, without the heatsink skating all over the
    place.

    One you are comfortable fitting the old one, you can take the green
    cover off the new cooler, fit it, and screw it down. The amount of
    paste should be precisely calibrated for proper coverage, so no
    "dot" activity or calibrating is required. You don't then want
    to take it apart again, if you can avoid it. That's why I would
    want you to rehearse with the old sink - I don't think much
    rehearsal is required, but I want you to be aware that a lot
    of the things i've reassembled (like video cards), I find that
    I mis-judged how easy it was, and I end up wasting quite a bit
    of paste fighting with the stupid thing. Rehearsing with an old
    dry heatsink, is cheaper.

    When fitting the fan, you might benefit from taking a picture
    of the assembly before you begin. The fan can be rotated, but
    one position may put less stress on the fan cable, or get in
    the way less, than other orientations. (Sometimes a fan cable
    gets pinched under the heatsink!) The cooling works better
    if the fan is blowing down on the cooler, than if it is pulling
    air upwards. The new fan should be fitted with the hub in the
    same orientation as the old one. (If the old label was upwards,
    the new label should be upwards.)

    In the past, I've taken fans and tested them with a 12V supply,
    felt the air movement (which side the air comes out), then take
    a Sharpie and put an arrow on the side of the fan frame, to mark
    airflow direction. That helps me verify, before power up,
    that I put the fan back on my machine, in the correct direction.
    But for yours, as long as you take a picture of the assembly,
    you'll have a reference for later if there are any questions.

    Paul



    Understood,..

    Practice makes perfect and I'll have allot more room to
    work than the 780 which was very restricted.

    Here's a pic of the inside of the 8500:

    https://postimg.cc/bd2kTHVg

    OIC on the new heatsink/fan assembly, just and clean both the
    heat sink and CPU and practice then when I feel comfortable,
    removing the green plastic and screw it down.

    btw it does say remove on the plastic but I guess the camera didn't
    pick it up.

    Thanks,
    Robert

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Apr 4 11:59:23 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/2/2025 12:45 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/1/2025 4:09 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I realized right after I sent the first message that the pop-up
    was from Avast and all I have to do is click Got it.

    I still am disappointed I couldn't replace the fan though.
    I just hope it runs after you OK me to try it.

    Robert

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87ImLtP9bWE

    Later in the video, he gets around to removing the 780 fan shroud.
    There are asymmetric tabs to depress on either side, that prevent the
    assembly from sliding forward. The down-low one is harder to reach.
    The one on the other side, may be hand-accessible.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/bNS55f8W/Optiplex-780-fan-release.gif

    The tab on the fan five pin, I think you compress that (towards
    the connector), to allow the connector to come loose.

       Paul



    Here's the 8500 heatsink/fan assembly

    https://postimg.cc/Kkchb46z

    https://postimg.cc/xJsD1nQP

    Robert


    That plastic is likely intended to be removed, before installation.
    That green plastic could be covering the real paste. Some of the
    covers like that, have text telling you to remove it.

    The screened-on material, in many cases is phase change TIM. It
    softens when it is really hot, and then it will flow over the
    top surface, and the heatsink will move closer to the CPU. That's
    a bit different than your grease-based AS5 and how it works.

    When material is screen-printed on a item like that, at least when
    I do them, when I first put the thing in place, I invariably make
    a mistake and have to take it apart. the paste gets scratched. In
    some cases, I end up removing the material (which is harder to remove
    than AS5) and putting the grease-based TIM on instead.

    In your case, you can take apart the old cooler, clean it off,
    and practice sitting it on top of the CPU, and checking how
    hard it is to tighten up, without the heatsink skating all over the
    place.

    One you are comfortable fitting the old one, you can take the green
    cover off the new cooler, fit it, and screw it down. The amount of
    paste should be precisely calibrated for proper coverage, so no
    "dot" activity or calibrating is required. You don't then want
    to take it apart again, if you can avoid it. That's why I would
    want you to rehearse with the old sink - I don't think much
    rehearsal is required, but I want you to be aware that a lot
    of the things i've reassembled (like video cards), I find that
    I mis-judged how easy it was, and I end up wasting quite a bit
    of paste fighting with the stupid thing. Rehearsing with an old
    dry heatsink, is cheaper.

    When fitting the fan, you might benefit from taking a picture
    of the assembly before you begin. The fan can be rotated, but
    one position may put less stress on the fan cable, or get in
    the way less, than other orientations. (Sometimes a fan cable
    gets pinched under the heatsink!) The cooling works better
    if the fan is blowing down on the cooler, than if it is pulling
    air upwards. The new fan should be fitted with the hub in the
    same orientation as the old one. (If the old label was upwards,
    the new label should be upwards.)

    In the past, I've taken fans and tested them with a 12V supply,
    felt the air movement (which side the air comes out), then take
    a Sharpie and put an arrow on the side of the fan frame, to mark
    airflow direction. That helps me verify, before power up,
    that I put the fan back on my machine, in the correct direction.
    But for yours, as long as you take a picture of the assembly,
    you'll have a reference for later if there are any questions.

    Paul



    Success ! I followed your advise and cleaned the CPU
    and Heatsink and then test fitted the old heatsink/fan (3)
    times,.. then removed the green plastic and fitted the new
    heatsink/fan and screwed it down.

    here's the old heatsink after I cleaned it:

    https://postimg.cc/QFZ8XR06

    the CPU

    https://postimg.cc/Ff9hS0t3

    the new heatsink/fan installed

    https://postimg.cc/7GhDsDZL


    Everything seems fine,. and its totally silent. Now I just have
    to do the rear fan when it arrives and were done.

    btw since the Avast pop-up was already checked in settings but
    I kept getting the page on startup. I decided to go to programs
    and sure enough, there it was Avast Browser. So I uninstalled it
    and everything is back to normal

    https://postimg.cc/675NqwRh

    Somehow, someway, I must of accidentally downloaded it but I
    don't remember doing so..

    Many Thanks,
    Robert





    --
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Apr 5 01:22:49 2025
    On Fri, 4/4/2025 2:59 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Success ! I followed your advise and cleaned the CPU
    and Heatsink and then test fitted the old heatsink/fan (3)
    times,.. then removed the green plastic and fitted the new
    heatsink/fan and screwed it down.

    here's the old heatsink after I cleaned it:

    https://postimg.cc/QFZ8XR06

    the CPU

    https://postimg.cc/Ff9hS0t3

    the new heatsink/fan installed

    https://postimg.cc/7GhDsDZL


    Everything seems fine,. and its totally silent.  Now I just have
    to do the rear fan when it arrives and were done.

    btw since the Avast pop-up was already checked in settings but
    I kept getting the page on startup. I decided to go to programs
    and sure enough, there it was Avast Browser. So I uninstalled it
    and everything is back to normal

    https://postimg.cc/675NqwRh

    Somehow, someway, I must of accidentally downloaded it but I
    don't remember doing so..

    Many Thanks,
    Robert

    The AVast browser likely invited itself in. It's a part
    of the AVast package at some point. When I tested that here,
    I ended up with that browser. I would not blame yourself
    for it getting there. I'm kinda curious what version they
    use for that, as Chrome development for win7 stopped some
    time ago.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Apr 5 04:09:47 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/4/2025 2:59 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Success ! I followed your advise and cleaned the CPU
    and Heatsink and then test fitted the old heatsink/fan (3)
    times,.. then removed the green plastic and fitted the new
    heatsink/fan and screwed it down.

    here's the old heatsink after I cleaned it:

    https://postimg.cc/QFZ8XR06

    the CPU

    https://postimg.cc/Ff9hS0t3

    the new heatsink/fan installed

    https://postimg.cc/7GhDsDZL


    Everything seems fine,. and its totally silent.  Now I just have
    to do the rear fan when it arrives and were done.

    btw since the Avast pop-up was already checked in settings but
    I kept getting the page on startup. I decided to go to programs
    and sure enough, there it was Avast Browser. So I uninstalled it
    and everything is back to normal

    https://postimg.cc/675NqwRh

    Somehow, someway, I must of accidentally downloaded it but I
    don't remember doing so..

    Many Thanks,
    Robert

    The AVast browser likely invited itself in. It's a part
    of the AVast package at some point. When I tested that here,
    I ended up with that browser. I would not blame yourself
    for it getting there. I'm kinda curious what version they
    use for that, as Chrome development for win7 stopped some
    time ago.

    Paul




    Well that's weird.

    Everything is fine here and both computers are
    totally silent and humming along.

    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Apr 5 04:42:57 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/4/2025 2:59 PM, Robert in CA wrote:


    Success ! I followed your advise and cleaned the CPU
    and Heatsink and then test fitted the old heatsink/fan (3)
    times,.. then removed the green plastic and fitted the new
    heatsink/fan and screwed it down.

    here's the old heatsink after I cleaned it:

    https://postimg.cc/QFZ8XR06

    the CPU

    https://postimg.cc/Ff9hS0t3

    the new heatsink/fan installed

    https://postimg.cc/7GhDsDZL


    Everything seems fine,. and its totally silent.  Now I just have
    to do the rear fan when it arrives and were done.

    btw since the Avast pop-up was already checked in settings but
    I kept getting the page on startup. I decided to go to programs
    and sure enough, there it was Avast Browser. So I uninstalled it
    and everything is back to normal

    https://postimg.cc/675NqwRh

    Somehow, someway, I must of accidentally downloaded it but I
    don't remember doing so..

    Many Thanks,
    Robert

    The AVast browser likely invited itself in. It's a part
    of the AVast package at some point. When I tested that here,
    I ended up with that browser. I would not blame yourself
    for it getting there. I'm kinda curious what version they
    use for that, as Chrome development for win7 stopped some
    time ago.

    Paul



    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert


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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Apr 5 13:38:15 2025
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Apr 5 14:25:19 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

    Paul



    Well it's uninstalled in any case,.

    Still waiting for the 8500 rear fan.

    I cleaned the old 780 fan and the
    8500 heatsink and fan.

    Robert


    --
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Apr 7 15:23:06 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

    Paul


    The 780 is now at 93 degrees is this normal ?

    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Apr 7 15:28:14 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

    Paul



    Dell 780 is now at 95 degrees

    Robert


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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Apr 7 15:20:52 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

    Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Apr 8 09:25:49 2025
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

        Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
    and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
    measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement. These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

    (RPM)
    Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
    (potentiometer)
    |
    |
    +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
    the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Apr 8 07:20:13 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

        Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
    and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

    (RPM)
    Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
    (potentiometer)
    |
    |
    +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
    the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

    Paul


    I saved the links you gave for the fan controllers but I wouldn't
    know how to connect them or how to use them.

    I'd prefer to add another fan...

    Is there no other way to fix this? Am I going to fry my computers?
    Could I mount a fan on the grill behind the other fan in the 780 so
    they are blowing in the same direction?

    https://postimg.cc/CzzMDNJn

    Is it possible to mount a fan on a PCI card for the 8500?

    https://postimg.cc/7b7v3zDZ

    In any case the computers 'seem' OK,.. both are dead silent and
    just hummming along but now I'm worried.

    Thanks,
    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Apr 8 11:26:00 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

        Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
    and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

    (RPM)
    Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
    (potentiometer)
    |
    |
    +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
    the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

    Paul



    Good news! I did another HD-Tune and this time
    the temp changed all on it's own and was 98. It's
    still high but allot better than 104.

    https://postimg.cc/23rk5YP6

    Robert


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Apr 8 19:13:40 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

        Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
    and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

    (RPM)
    Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
    (potentiometer)
    |
    |
    +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
    the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

    Paul




    bad news,.. I did another HD-Tune and it went up to 107!!

    Am I going to end up frying my computers? I hope not after
    all the money and work we put into them.

    I'm really worried,....

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Apr 8 19:26:13 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

        Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
    and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

    (RPM)
    Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
    (potentiometer)
    |
    |
    +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
    the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

    Paul



    I ran 3 HD-Tune's and it dropped to 105

    https://postimg.cc/bDQJdH0S

    https://postimg.cc/4Hs3c7wL

    https://postimg.cc/fkN7C8rF

    I also clicked on options.

    https://postimg.cc/WtwGHMR4

    https://postimg.cc/7fP38fDn

    https://postimg.cc/SJZWykxF

    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 9 08:39:55 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

        Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
    and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

    (RPM)
    Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
    (potentiometer)
    |
    |
    +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
    the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

    Paul



    I did more HD-Tune's and the temp wet back down to 96 then
    98. So it seems it fluctuating between 96-107 degrees. It seems
    high to me but the computers seem to be OK. Still, I'm worried.
    Yet there's nothing I can do. I thought changing all the fans would
    be a good thing and the computers would run cooler but its had the
    opposite effect. Weird.

    https://postimg.cc/SJBhsFj9

    https://postimg.cc/WDjcGGGb

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 9 09:08:41 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

        Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
    and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

    (RPM)
    Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
    (potentiometer)
    |
    |
    +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
    the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

    Paul





    I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
    I assume the 8500 is similar.

    https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3

    https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R

    https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j

    https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf

    https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV

    https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj

    https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV

    https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL

    https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx

    https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh

    https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR


    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Apr 9 16:40:05 2025
    On Tue, 4/8/2025 10:20 AM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

         Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
    and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
    measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

                                                   (RPM)
        Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
                                   (potentiometer) >>                                            |
                                               |
                                               +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
                                                      the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

        https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

        Paul


    I saved the links you gave for the fan controllers but I wouldn't
    know how to connect them or how to use them.

    I'd prefer to add another fan...

    Is there no other way to fix this? Am I going to fry my computers?
    Could I mount a fan on the grill behind the other fan in the 780 so
    they are blowing in the same direction?

    https://postimg.cc/CzzMDNJn

    Is it possible to mount a fan on a PCI card for the 8500?

    https://postimg.cc/7b7v3zDZ

    In any case the computers 'seem' OK,.. both are dead silent and
    just hummming along but now I'm worried.

    Thanks,
    Robert


    You're allowed up to 140F.

    https://www.seagate.com/www-content/datasheets/pdfs/desktop-hdd-8tbDS1770-7-1511US-en_US.pdf

    Operating (ambient, min) 0C 32F
    Operating (drive case, max) 60C 140F

    *******

    Now the next issue, is why is your disk temperature relatively high
    in the first place ? In this example, a WDC Black 1TB is the OS drive.
    After a workout (apparent Windows Update), it's only 30C or 86F.

    https://i.postimg.cc/KcCc41r8/optiplex-780-temps.gif

    One of the CPU cores is 59C, which is not really abnormal. At least,
    it isn't for high power CPUs, to reach 60C like that. But it's possible
    the fan doesn't attempt to speed up, until that temperature gets above
    60C. The temperature is a silicon die temperature (that's not like the old days, where a thermistor was stationed underneath the socket taking the temp and that would then be a "Tcase" rather than a "Tdie"). the CPU can go up to the
    boiling point of water (99C) without a problem.

    One of the first questions then, is whether the front vent area next
    to the drives is clear. And the drive bay has vent holes on the top
    of the 780 lower drive bay, and those have to be clear as well.

    O Front power button (780)
    |
    X front fan
    | X 150 CFM
    X Barely spins
    |
    +- - - -+
    | Drive
    ??
    | Drive
    +-----------------

    But there is no obvious cooling design intent on the 780 there.
    If you stuck the hard drive in the 5.25" bay below the top optical
    driue, there is no real airflow there to speak of either.

    The 780 PSU has a fan in it, and the control of that is up to the
    power supply.

    The largest fan you could stick in front of the drive bay (where the
    two question marks are) is 120mm.

    This used to be a favorite as a Low (Low,Medium,High,Ultra). But is this
    even the same company it was, when these could be bought here ? I don't
    know if this is the same fan spec. The thing about these, is they are
    not technically superior (the bearing is not FDB or SSO), it is a ball
    bearing fan, but these lasted me a hell of a long time for a BB fan.
    Some BB fans are only 10,000 hours, the best commercial ones (used at work) were 50,000 hours. But a BB fan is better than a sleeve bearing fan.
    I've had sleeve bearing fans that failed the first day! (Generally 40mm
    sleeves aren't all that good).

    https://vantecusa.com/products_detail.php?p_id=59&p_name=Stealth+Case+Fan&pc_id=24&pc_name=Case+fan&pt_id=6&pt_name=Cooling#

    and you'd still have to find a way to bolt it on. It's still a kind
    of "Hail Mary" design, not all the best as a cooling solution.

    Fitting it next to the existing fan would also be a solution, but
    there's not a lot of room to work with, the 780 stays disabled while
    you work on it, you're removing and refitting the CPU cooler and so on.
    That's also not all that good of an approach.

    On the back of the 780, there is room to mount a fan, but the control
    over the back surface is poor, and airflow just "leaks" at the back
    (moves backwards through the PSU). it's not a particular good area
    for fan work either.

    Cutting a hole in that nice metal side panel, gives some access to the
    drive bay :-) But again, the shape of the location is not optimal for
    getting a good flow of air in the cavity.

    This happens quite often with computer cases -- thwarted at every turn!
    This is not my first rodeo.

    Other options would be finding an (even lower) power drive.
    SSD are lower power for example (yes, they have a pessimistic power
    spec in the datasheet, but the typical power is 2.5W or less, and
    this SATA III would run at SATA II rates in the 780). Depending on
    the power save state transitions, the drive power can be well below
    1 watt when they're idle inside. I have an SSD on the table here,
    and putting the clamp-on ammeter on it, it blips to 1 watt on a read,
    and 0 watts at idle (power is below the resolution of the meter).
    These should always run cooler than a hard drive.

    https://www.newegg.com/samsung-2tb-870-evo-series-sata/p/N82E16820147794

    *******

    For the XPS 8500, the process there is a bit more manageable,
    as it has a separate case fan, and you can put a fan and
    something to vary the fan speed if you want. You'll have to
    check the fan dimensions to see if it is a 80mm, 92mm, 120mm.

    Now, I found this item pretty amusing. This generates the PWM signal
    for a four pin fan. Since it generates a 5V level logic signal and
    does no power handling of its own, there is nothing on there to overheat,
    not like on the only rheobus for sale on Newegg. A relatively
    benign item - the only caveats is the adjustment range may not
    go from 0% to 100%. It might manage 20% to 80% or so, as
    I can't imagine the logic circuit having the full range. Still,
    I like the idea, as a way of doing it. The actual power control on
    PWM fans, is on the hub of the fan (a MOSFET).

    Adjustable speed PWM controller $12.09

    https://www.newegg.com/p/1W7-005X-000D4

    Molex to PCIe 2x4 (plug 2x3 connector to 2x3 section of 2x4) $7.88
    One of the two Molex should work for power for the above.
    The 2x3 should only connect one way to the 2x4 (latches should meet).

    https://www.newegg.com/p/2BX-00EA-00066

    PWM fan for $11.98 That's a 120mm you would run at half speed (using the controller above).
    PWM fan means there is a four pin connector on the end, that mates
    with one of the connectors on the controller. 60CFM gives us the adjustment range. A more normal case fan is 35CFM, for comparison. One like the 110CFM
    I have here, that would be too much, and it would have to be turned down,
    and then it would be an issue of how low a pulse width the controller can make for the control signal.

    https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    That's an example of a variable speed fan, that could be fitted in place
    of the 8500 case fan. Note that in terms of Newegg filling that order,
    their stupid shipping system might well result in three packages
    and three shipping fees. Some of the items likely come from China by post
    and might take a few weeks.

    But that's some ideas. Sorry it took so long. Some of these little
    engineering jobs are a rat bastard to do :-) Can't do this, can't do that. Etc.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Apr 9 16:49:01 2025
    On Wed, 4/9/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

         Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
    and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
    measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

                                                   (RPM)
        Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
                                   (potentiometer) >>                                            |
                                               |
                                               +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
                                                      the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

        https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

        Paul





    I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
    I assume the 8500 is similar.

    https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3

    https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R

    https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j

    https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf

    https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV

    https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj

    https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV

    https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL

    https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx

    https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh

    https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR


    Robert

    On the 780, in power management, there is a "fan control override".
    That just makes the blower on the 780, go to full power,
    which is hardly useful. You would assert "fan control override"...
    if you had Windows software to control the fan.

    You should visit the XPS 8500 BIOS and see if there
    are any signs of intelligent life in there. I agree with
    your guess that there isn't anything in there.

    I did find one Windows fancontrol.exe program, but the
    author of it does not list which SuperIO it works with,
    and he claims he hasn't added any controllers to the list
    and the program is mainly a GUI for setting up a fan. With
    the SMSC that other programs cannot control, I can't see
    this even being worth testing. Unless someone makes a brash
    claim they have discovered a way to control a lot more of
    them, the SMSC is going to remain off limits. The hardware
    to control a fan, is undoubtedly in there, just no driver
    to get to it.

    Dell offers fan control software for their laptops, but
    not for desktops. BIOS control would have worked... if Dell
    had put a "hardware monitor" page in the BIOS. My desktops
    here, all have BIOS level control of the automatic fan
    speed adjustments.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Apr 9 16:51:59 2025
    On Tue, 4/8/2025 10:13 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

         Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
    and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
    measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

                                                   (RPM)
        Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
                                   (potentiometer) >>                                            |
                                               |
                                               +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
                                                      the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

        https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

        Paul




    bad news,.. I did another HD-Tune and it went up to 107!!

    Am I going to end up frying my computers? I hope not after
    all the money and work we put into them.

    I'm really worried,....

    Robert


    The hard drive is good to 140F (60C).

    But I don't like equipment being run that way.

    The hard drive motor is FDB, and hotter operation
    is not particularly good for it. The write logic
    on the drive, has temperature compensation, so the
    drive design knows the write process depends on
    temperature.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 9 15:47:38 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/9/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

         Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
    and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
    measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

                                                   (RPM)
        Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
                                   (potentiometer)
                                               |
                                               |
                                               +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
                                                      the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

        https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

        Paul





    I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
    I assume the 8500 is similar.

    https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3

    https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R

    https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j

    https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf

    https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV

    https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj

    https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV

    https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL

    https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx

    https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh

    https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR


    Robert

    On the 780, in power management, there is a "fan control override".
    That just makes the blower on the 780, go to full power,
    which is hardly useful. You would assert "fan control override"...
    if you had Windows software to control the fan.

    You should visit the XPS 8500 BIOS and see if there
    are any signs of intelligent life in there. I agree with
    your guess that there isn't anything in there.

    I did find one Windows fancontrol.exe program, but the
    author of it does not list which SuperIO it works with,
    and he claims he hasn't added any controllers to the list
    and the program is mainly a GUI for setting up a fan. With
    the SMSC that other programs cannot control, I can't see
    this even being worth testing. Unless someone makes a brash
    claim they have discovered a way to control a lot more of
    them, the SMSC is going to remain off limits. The hardware
    to control a fan, is undoubtedly in there, just no driver
    to get to it.

    Dell offers fan control software for their laptops, but
    not for desktops. BIOS control would have worked... if Dell
    had put a "hardware monitor" page in the BIOS. My desktops
    here, all have BIOS level control of the automatic fan
    speed adjustments.

    Paul


    I checked the 8500 BIOS,.. it didn't have anything either.

    https://postimg.cc/VdBKZgN3

    https://postimg.cc/DSxBnzL6

    https://postimg.cc/mchVDGSs

    https://postimg.cc/k6bcQFZY

    https://postimg.cc/5Q5SG9fw

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 9 17:42:00 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/9/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

         Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
    and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
    measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

                                                   (RPM)
        Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
                                   (potentiometer)
                                               |
                                               |
                                               +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
                                                      the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

        https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

        Paul





    I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
    I assume the 8500 is similar.

    https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3

    https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R

    https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j

    https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf

    https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV

    https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj

    https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV

    https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL

    https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx

    https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh

    https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR


    Robert

    On the 780, in power management, there is a "fan control override".
    That just makes the blower on the 780, go to full power,
    which is hardly useful. You would assert "fan control override"...
    if you had Windows software to control the fan.

    You should visit the XPS 8500 BIOS and see if there
    are any signs of intelligent life in there. I agree with
    your guess that there isn't anything in there.

    I did find one Windows fancontrol.exe program, but the
    author of it does not list which SuperIO it works with,
    and he claims he hasn't added any controllers to the list
    and the program is mainly a GUI for setting up a fan. With
    the SMSC that other programs cannot control, I can't see
    this even being worth testing. Unless someone makes a brash
    claim they have discovered a way to control a lot more of
    them, the SMSC is going to remain off limits. The hardware
    to control a fan, is undoubtedly in there, just no driver
    to get to it.

    Dell offers fan control software for their laptops, but
    not for desktops. BIOS control would have worked... if Dell
    had put a "hardware monitor" page in the BIOS. My desktops
    here, all have BIOS level control of the automatic fan
    speed adjustments.

    Paul


    Couldn't we use something like this for
    the 8500 and 780 to cool them?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/162860535920

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Apr 10 07:09:25 2025
    On Wed, 4/9/2025 11:39 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

         Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
    and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
    measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

                                                   (RPM)
        Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
                                   (potentiometer) >>                                            |
                                               |
                                               +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
                                                      the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

        https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

        Paul



    I did more HD-Tune's and the temp wet back down to 96 then
    98. So it seems it fluctuating between 96-107 degrees. It seems
    high to me but the computers seem to be OK. Still, I'm worried.
    Yet there's nothing I can do. I thought changing all the fans would
    be a good thing and the computers would run cooler but its had the
    opposite effect. Weird.

     https://postimg.cc/SJBhsFj9

     https://postimg.cc/WDjcGGGb

    Robert

    Check that the vent holes on the top of the
    drive rack are not blocked.

    Using a flashlight, check that the grill around the push-button start
    on the 780 is not blocked.

    When the machine is ice-cold, and has just started, the drive
    should not be that hot at startup. It should be a little closer
    to ambient in that case.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Apr 10 07:25:03 2025
    On Wed, 4/9/2025 8:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/9/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

          Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed,
    and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
    measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

                                                    (RPM)
         Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
                                    (potentiometer)
                                                |
                                                |
                                                +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
                                                       the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

         https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

         Paul





    I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
    I assume the 8500 is similar.

    https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3

    https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R

    https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j

    https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf

    https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV

    https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj

    https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV

    https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL

    https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx

    https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh

    https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR


    Robert

    On the 780, in power management, there is a "fan control override".
    That just makes the blower on the 780, go to full power,
    which is hardly useful. You would assert "fan control override"...
    if you had Windows software to control the fan.

    You should visit the XPS 8500 BIOS and see if there
    are any signs of intelligent life in there. I agree with
    your guess that there isn't anything in there.

    I did find one Windows fancontrol.exe program, but the
    author of it does not list which SuperIO it works with,
    and he claims he hasn't added any controllers to the list
    and the program is mainly a GUI for setting up a fan. With
    the SMSC that other programs cannot control, I can't see
    this even being worth testing. Unless someone makes a brash
    claim they have discovered a way to control a lot more of
    them, the SMSC is going to remain off limits. The hardware
    to control a fan, is undoubtedly in there, just no driver
    to get to it.

    Dell offers fan control software for their laptops, but
    not for desktops. BIOS control would have worked... if Dell
    had put a "hardware monitor" page in the BIOS. My desktops
    here, all have BIOS level control of the automatic fan
    speed adjustments.

        Paul


    Couldn't we use something like this for
    the 8500 and 780 to cool them?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/162860535920

    Robert

    I would agree that moves air around, but the
    hard drive would have to be mounted next to
    that thing, for that to work really well.

    The hard drive has to be, at least somewhat
    securely mounted. And it has to be removable,
    when you want to remove it.

    It could be put in the spare optical drive bay
    for example, but there is no air movement
    in there either. You have to take
    the (breakaway) metal plate off the bay, to get
    air movement. And exactly how much air pressure
    will there be, when the other vents on the PC,
    steal all the air pressure ? Still, not a lot of
    air movement.

    *******

    On the 780, I have a *suspicion*, that if you
    move the tray down to the lower slot, and use the
    bottom SATA connector on the two connector power
    cable, the drive will be a tiny bit cooler
    in that spot. This assumes only one of the two
    bays is in usage, and currently the top bay is
    being used. The bottom bay (that is facing you
    when the side panel comes off), has two slots,
    and the bottom slot, by itself, should be a tiny bit cooler.

    On the next restart, you will need to enter the BIOS and
    switch on whatever SATA data cable the thing is using
    at that point. If you have two SATA cables for that
    bay, one aligns better than the other, and that is
    the cable that needs to be switched on in the BIOS
    so it boots.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Apr 10 05:33:33 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/9/2025 8:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/9/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

          Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed, >>>>> and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
    measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

                                                    (RPM)
         Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
                                    (potentiometer)
                                                |
                                                |
                                                +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
                                                       the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

         https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

         Paul





    I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
    I assume the 8500 is similar.

    https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3

    https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R

    https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j

    https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf

    https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV

    https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj

    https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV

    https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL

    https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx

    https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh

    https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR


    Robert

    On the 780, in power management, there is a "fan control override".
    That just makes the blower on the 780, go to full power,
    which is hardly useful. You would assert "fan control override"...
    if you had Windows software to control the fan.

    You should visit the XPS 8500 BIOS and see if there
    are any signs of intelligent life in there. I agree with
    your guess that there isn't anything in there.

    I did find one Windows fancontrol.exe program, but the
    author of it does not list which SuperIO it works with,
    and he claims he hasn't added any controllers to the list
    and the program is mainly a GUI for setting up a fan. With
    the SMSC that other programs cannot control, I can't see
    this even being worth testing. Unless someone makes a brash
    claim they have discovered a way to control a lot more of
    them, the SMSC is going to remain off limits. The hardware
    to control a fan, is undoubtedly in there, just no driver
    to get to it.

    Dell offers fan control software for their laptops, but
    not for desktops. BIOS control would have worked... if Dell
    had put a "hardware monitor" page in the BIOS. My desktops
    here, all have BIOS level control of the automatic fan
    speed adjustments.

        Paul


    Couldn't we use something like this for
    the 8500 and 780 to cool them?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/162860535920

    Robert

    I would agree that moves air around, but the
    hard drive would have to be mounted next to
    that thing, for that to work really well.

    The hard drive has to be, at least somewhat
    securely mounted. And it has to be removable,
    when you want to remove it.

    It could be put in the spare optical drive bay
    for example, but there is no air movement
    in there either. You have to take
    the (breakaway) metal plate off the bay, to get
    air movement. And exactly how much air pressure
    will there be, when the other vents on the PC,
    steal all the air pressure ? Still, not a lot of
    air movement.

    *******

    On the 780, I have a *suspicion*, that if you
    move the tray down to the lower slot, and use the
    bottom SATA connector on the two connector power
    cable, the drive will be a tiny bit cooler
    in that spot. This assumes only one of the two
    bays is in usage, and currently the top bay is
    being used. The bottom bay (that is facing you
    when the side panel comes off), has two slots,
    and the bottom slot, by itself, should be a tiny bit cooler.

    On the next restart, you will need to enter the BIOS and
    switch on whatever SATA data cable the thing is using
    at that point. If you have two SATA cables for that
    bay, one aligns better than the other, and that is
    the cable that needs to be switched on in the BIOS
    so it boots.

    Paul



    Both the 8500 and the 780 have the Win 7 hd in the top bay
    and Win 10 hd in the bottom bay. We set it up like that so
    that I only have to move the data cable to move from Win7
    to Win 10. I could remove the Win 10 hd's.

    Hmmmmm not sure if I'm following your instruction's for the
    780. I've never taken the panel off.

    You mean to remove the Win10 hd on the lower bay and install
    the fan there? (label up or down?) and connect the fan to the
    molex cable where the hd use to connect? Then I need to go
    into BIOS?

    Besides, I need to order the fan and don't know which one to
    order? How would I install the fan? with the same side screws?

    What about the 8500, is there no solution? or could we do the
    same thing?

    I'm wondering if just removing the Win 10 hd's would help?

    I ran a HD-Tune and the computer was 95 degrees. Still running
    dead silent and humming along.

    Thanks,
    Robert


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Apr 10 06:40:26 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/9/2025 8:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/9/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

          Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed, >>>>> and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
    measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

                                                    (RPM)
         Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
                                    (potentiometer)
                                                |
                                                |
                                                +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
                                                       the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

         https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

         Paul





    I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
    I assume the 8500 is similar.

    https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3

    https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R

    https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j

    https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf

    https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV

    https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj

    https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV

    https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL

    https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx

    https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh

    https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR


    Robert

    On the 780, in power management, there is a "fan control override".
    That just makes the blower on the 780, go to full power,
    which is hardly useful. You would assert "fan control override"...
    if you had Windows software to control the fan.

    You should visit the XPS 8500 BIOS and see if there
    are any signs of intelligent life in there. I agree with
    your guess that there isn't anything in there.

    I did find one Windows fancontrol.exe program, but the
    author of it does not list which SuperIO it works with,
    and he claims he hasn't added any controllers to the list
    and the program is mainly a GUI for setting up a fan. With
    the SMSC that other programs cannot control, I can't see
    this even being worth testing. Unless someone makes a brash
    claim they have discovered a way to control a lot more of
    them, the SMSC is going to remain off limits. The hardware
    to control a fan, is undoubtedly in there, just no driver
    to get to it.

    Dell offers fan control software for their laptops, but
    not for desktops. BIOS control would have worked... if Dell
    had put a "hardware monitor" page in the BIOS. My desktops
    here, all have BIOS level control of the automatic fan
    speed adjustments.

        Paul


    Couldn't we use something like this for
    the 8500 and 780 to cool them?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/162860535920

    Robert

    I would agree that moves air around, but the
    hard drive would have to be mounted next to
    that thing, for that to work really well.

    The hard drive has to be, at least somewhat
    securely mounted. And it has to be removable,
    when you want to remove it.

    It could be put in the spare optical drive bay
    for example, but there is no air movement
    in there either. You have to take
    the (breakaway) metal plate off the bay, to get
    air movement. And exactly how much air pressure
    will there be, when the other vents on the PC,
    steal all the air pressure ? Still, not a lot of
    air movement.

    *******

    On the 780, I have a *suspicion*, that if you
    move the tray down to the lower slot, and use the
    bottom SATA connector on the two connector power
    cable, the drive will be a tiny bit cooler
    in that spot. This assumes only one of the two
    bays is in usage, and currently the top bay is
    being used. The bottom bay (that is facing you
    when the side panel comes off), has two slots,
    and the bottom slot, by itself, should be a tiny bit cooler.

    On the next restart, you will need to enter the BIOS and
    switch on whatever SATA data cable the thing is using
    at that point. If you have two SATA cables for that
    bay, one aligns better than the other, and that is
    the cable that needs to be switched on in the BIOS
    so it boots.

    Paul



    I removed the Win10 hd from both computers.

    I then did a HD-Tune for the 8500 and the temp
    dropped to 89! then rose to 91 then 93 but still
    better than before.

    https://postimg.cc/7fqgggSK

    https://postimg.cc/GTKTM5vq

    https://postimg.cc/MnvtQ78h

    Robert






    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Apr 10 12:49:16 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/9/2025 8:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/9/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

          Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed, >>>>> and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
    measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

                                                    (RPM)
         Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
                                    (potentiometer)
                                                |
                                                |
                                                +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
                                                       the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

         https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

         Paul





    I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
    I assume the 8500 is similar.

    https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3

    https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R

    https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j

    https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf

    https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV

    https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj

    https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV

    https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL

    https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx

    https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh

    https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR


    Robert

    On the 780, in power management, there is a "fan control override".
    That just makes the blower on the 780, go to full power,
    which is hardly useful. You would assert "fan control override"...
    if you had Windows software to control the fan.

    You should visit the XPS 8500 BIOS and see if there
    are any signs of intelligent life in there. I agree with
    your guess that there isn't anything in there.

    I did find one Windows fancontrol.exe program, but the
    author of it does not list which SuperIO it works with,
    and he claims he hasn't added any controllers to the list
    and the program is mainly a GUI for setting up a fan. With
    the SMSC that other programs cannot control, I can't see
    this even being worth testing. Unless someone makes a brash
    claim they have discovered a way to control a lot more of
    them, the SMSC is going to remain off limits. The hardware
    to control a fan, is undoubtedly in there, just no driver
    to get to it.

    Dell offers fan control software for their laptops, but
    not for desktops. BIOS control would have worked... if Dell
    had put a "hardware monitor" page in the BIOS. My desktops
    here, all have BIOS level control of the automatic fan
    speed adjustments.

        Paul


    Couldn't we use something like this for
    the 8500 and 780 to cool them?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/162860535920

    Robert

    I would agree that moves air around, but the
    hard drive would have to be mounted next to
    that thing, for that to work really well.

    The hard drive has to be, at least somewhat
    securely mounted. And it has to be removable,
    when you want to remove it.

    It could be put in the spare optical drive bay
    for example, but there is no air movement
    in there either. You have to take
    the (breakaway) metal plate off the bay, to get
    air movement. And exactly how much air pressure
    will there be, when the other vents on the PC,
    steal all the air pressure ? Still, not a lot of
    air movement.

    *******

    On the 780, I have a *suspicion*, that if you
    move the tray down to the lower slot, and use the
    bottom SATA connector on the two connector power
    cable, the drive will be a tiny bit cooler
    in that spot. This assumes only one of the two
    bays is in usage, and currently the top bay is
    being used. The bottom bay (that is facing you
    when the side panel comes off), has two slots,
    and the bottom slot, by itself, should be a tiny bit cooler.

    On the next restart, you will need to enter the BIOS and
    switch on whatever SATA data cable the thing is using
    at that point. If you have two SATA cables for that
    bay, one aligns better than the other, and that is
    the cable that needs to be switched on in the BIOS
    so it boots.

    Paul


    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it dropped to 86 degree's


    https://postimg.cc/k6gZpyXJ


    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Apr 11 19:07:32 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/9/2025 8:42 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/9/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/7/2025 6:20 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/5/2025 7:42 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Version 109.0.25993.120


    Robert

    April 4, 2025, 135.0.7049.42

    The AVast one is a bit behind.

          Paul


    The rear fan for the 8500 arrived today and I installed it
    with no problem at all.

    https://postimg.cc/8jMVpX1T

    However, I did a HD-Tune and was shocked that the temp is
    104! It's never been that high and I just put in two new fans! I
    don't understand? I did (3 passes).

    https://postimg.cc/K11pcR7B

    https://postimg.cc/hXNyXcMw

    https://postimg.cc/kV8j8zp5

    https://postimg.cc/k6mTys0v

    https://postimg.cc/7JPXF6YC

    https://postimg.cc/G9bM8MJc

    https://postimg.cc/vDX0WW35

    I did a HD-Tune on the 780 and it's 91 degrees. What's
    going on? They should be cooler. I don't understand it?

    Both computers 'seem' fine and are totally silent

    Thanks,
    Robert

    That is automatic fan control for you.

    The thing is, you've improved CPU cooling, the CPU temperature
    has dropped, so the automatic fan control has reduced the fan speed, >>>>> and the hard drive temperature has risen.

    The Optiplex 780 has a SMSC SCH5524 superIO chip. Normally
    the fan speed control, the voltage measurements, the temperature
    measurements, are on the SuperIO hardware monitor section.

    The Dell 780 BIOS has:

    1) No monitored conditions listed.
    2) No fan speed curves you can adjust.
    3) A single control for "fan speed override" (fan goes to max).
    4) Speedfan does not have a detection for SCH5524.
    5) *Linux* does not have a detection for SCH5524.

    Basically... the fan is uncontrollable by humans :-/

    I expect the XPS 8500 is a similar thing, but I don't have
    any info on it.

    For the XPS 8500, you could connect the rear fan to a
    separate power supply. I have a gadget that is 10-15 years old,
    that is a voltage adjustment for a three pin fan. It has two fan
    connectors. One connection point is where the case fan goes. The
    other connection is a one wire cable with a three pin female
    connector on it, and that goes to the motherboard fan header.
    It sends the RPM signal from the fan, back to the motherboard for measurement.
    These have a 6 watt limits, so a 12V 0.5A fan would be a maximum.
    A thing like this would be OK with a 12V ~0.1A fan for example
    (like the 8500 situation).

                                                    (RPM)
         Molex power 1x4 ---------- Zalman Fanmate --<--- Three pin male for Dell fan --- Brand new Dell rear fan 8500
                                    (potentiometer)
                                                |
                                                |
                                                +----> one wire RPM connector goes to
                                                       the fan header on the motherboard

    See, they don't make these any more. We need to find an
    equivalent, to fix the 8500.

         https://www.amazon.ca/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0

    *******

    The 780 will be tougher still to fix. I don't think it has a lot
    of spare power connections. One way to get air through the case,
    would be to cut the PWM wire on the single fan, and splice in a
    PWM signal in its place. The signal amplitude should be 5V,
    and a 50 percent duty cycle signal would give "half-fan-speed".

    This device, for example, claims it will produce a PWM signal.
    It has a knob for each channel. Visually, it looks like a combo
    controller (varies the 12V signal for 3 pin fan operation,
    varies the PWM signal for 4 pin fan operation). but I can't see
    a controller, like an ESP32 or an Arduino or the like. It does not
    actually look like a PWM controller. Only power components for
    the 3 pin fan function are visible. I cannot visually confirm the
    function.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Controller-Channel-Temperature-Independent-Computer/dp/B09TPWV7PH

    This, on the other hand, looks like a PWM generator. It can be
    dialed for a 25KHz 5V signal, and it has a duty cycle control.
    Usually, you do not expect the duty cycle to be adjustable
    in 1% steps. A thing like this will use whatever step size it
    feels like (usually, the higher the frequency, the fewer duty
    cycle values it would support). But, that would not matter
    for a fan control function. If it went in 5% increments, that
    might be sufficient. You would disconnect this from what it
    was driving, until you had adjusted the controls properly and
    the correct voltage was on the output.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-DROK-Function-Frequency-Rectangular/dp/B07KVYQ78K

    The computers I have here, they have a BIOS page with a fan
    graph. And you can set the response for the automatic fan
    control right in the BIOS. And that's a good thing, as
    both Windows and Linux don't have software for setting
    the fan speed. The BIOS function saves the day.

    Another way to fix a cooling issue, is to add another fan
    to the case. If there is a place to mount it, and a power source.
    On the 780, that would be blowing air into the new fan shroud
    you bought. That's because, if you fitted an exhaust fan on
    the 780, on the rear side of it, that causes air to move
    in the wrong direction through the power supply. And then you have
    to ensure the exhaust fan air velocity is high enough, to keep
    enough air moving through the PSU.

    Even if I was standing in the room with the equipment, I'd
    have trouble building a good solution. If they'd selected
    a "more common" controller, like a Winbond or a Nuvoton,
    maybe SpeedFan could have fixed this.

         Paul





    I went into the 780 BIOS, but I could find nothing on fans
    I assume the 8500 is similar.

    https://postimg.cc/zVXsGDJ3

    https://postimg.cc/YhnJGc9R

    https://postimg.cc/MngN5y1j

    https://postimg.cc/Vr8TQmGf

    https://postimg.cc/WtSyCRMV

    https://postimg.cc/21LX1Vgj

    https://postimg.cc/3yshkstV

    https://postimg.cc/WhY12HPL

    https://postimg.cc/PP0nVsjx

    https://postimg.cc/p9JNdmnh

    https://postimg.cc/jwMGzBcR


    Robert

    On the 780, in power management, there is a "fan control override".
    That just makes the blower on the 780, go to full power,
    which is hardly useful. You would assert "fan control override"...
    if you had Windows software to control the fan.

    You should visit the XPS 8500 BIOS and see if there
    are any signs of intelligent life in there. I agree with
    your guess that there isn't anything in there.

    I did find one Windows fancontrol.exe program, but the
    author of it does not list which SuperIO it works with,
    and he claims he hasn't added any controllers to the list
    and the program is mainly a GUI for setting up a fan. With
    the SMSC that other programs cannot control, I can't see
    this even being worth testing. Unless someone makes a brash
    claim they have discovered a way to control a lot more of
    them, the SMSC is going to remain off limits. The hardware
    to control a fan, is undoubtedly in there, just no driver
    to get to it.

    Dell offers fan control software for their laptops, but
    not for desktops. BIOS control would have worked... if Dell
    had put a "hardware monitor" page in the BIOS. My desktops
    here, all have BIOS level control of the automatic fan
    speed adjustments.

        Paul


    Couldn't we use something like this for
    the 8500 and 780 to cool them?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/162860535920

    Robert

    I would agree that moves air around, but the
    hard drive would have to be mounted next to
    that thing, for that to work really well.

    The hard drive has to be, at least somewhat
    securely mounted. And it has to be removable,
    when you want to remove it.

    It could be put in the spare optical drive bay
    for example, but there is no air movement
    in there either. You have to take
    the (breakaway) metal plate off the bay, to get
    air movement. And exactly how much air pressure
    will there be, when the other vents on the PC,
    steal all the air pressure ? Still, not a lot of
    air movement.

    *******

    On the 780, I have a *suspicion*, that if you
    move the tray down to the lower slot, and use the
    bottom SATA connector on the two connector power
    cable, the drive will be a tiny bit cooler
    in that spot. This assumes only one of the two
    bays is in usage, and currently the top bay is
    being used. The bottom bay (that is facing you
    when the side panel comes off), has two slots,
    and the bottom slot, by itself, should be a tiny bit cooler.

    On the next restart, you will need to enter the BIOS and
    switch on whatever SATA data cable the thing is using
    at that point. If you have two SATA cables for that
    bay, one aligns better than the other, and that is
    the cable that needs to be switched on in the BIOS
    so it boots.

    Paul


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same, nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Apr 12 01:03:45 2025
    On Thu, 4/10/2025 9:40 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I removed the Win10 hd from both computers.

    I then did a HD-Tune for the 8500 and the temp
    dropped to 89! then rose to 91 then 93 but still
    better than before.

    https://postimg.cc/7fqgggSK

    https://postimg.cc/GTKTM5vq

    https://postimg.cc/MnvtQ78h

    Robert

    There is a possibility of a little air movement
    through the 780 drive cage, with only one drive present.
    I think the lower bay, is the better of the two bays
    when only one drive is present.

    The thing is, the 780 does have holes in the drive cage
    area, but the holes are mostly "decorative". There isn't
    a continuous airflow path through the thing. That's part
    of the problem. When both trays are present, the plastic
    blocks various stuff.

    I've purchased disk enclosures before, where the enclosure
    comes with a 40mm (noisy) fan. The fan has a vent hole for
    the fan itself. But the casing has no exhaust vent! This
    means the fan can spin all it wants, and there is no path
    for the air to go. Only something close to the swirling of
    the fan, might get a tiny bit of cooling effect. Otherwise...
    perfectly useless.

    The 8500, you can mess around with the case fan a bit. run it
    off a PWM controller for example.

    https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

    https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    About $30 or so (Noctua are always expensive like that), and
    it uses a SATA power cable (to run the chip making the PWM signal).
    While the device claims to have a "3 amp limit", that's a reference
    to the SATA power connector +12V rating. That thing isn't actually
    a power control device, it just makes a control signal (digital)
    to feed a four pin "PWM" fan. I don't know if the 8500 uses a
    four pin cable for the case fan. If the Dell XPS 8500 case fan
    is a three pin, you could replace it with the fan below which is
    a four pin, and would work with the Noctua four pin controller.

    I have at least $500 worth of Noctua merch in the house, they're
    a curse on price :-)

    You would check the 8500 and see if the fan is 120mm or not.
    This fan, for $11.98, is a 56.3 CFM fan, and using the Noctua
    controller you would set it to about half speed.

    Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type

    https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    But for the 780, controlling the main fan with the Noctua is technically feasible, but the connector situation is a mess. You can't interfere with
    the RPM signal, as the 780 would likely shut off the PC if the
    fan appeared to be stalled (because the RPM signal was disconnected).
    If the PWM becomes disconnected, the fan goes to full speed. If the
    Noctua PWM signal is connected to the PWM wire, then the thing
    is under control and can be dialed to a more useful level.

    Since the 780 is so half baked, the discussions about it may refer to
    the RPM signal, but it might be the alternate design type, which is
    the RPM signal is a "stall" signal, and the logic level (0 or 1 level) indicates whether fan is "stalled" or "turning". Computers don't
    usually do their fans that way, but it is one of the options
    available from the fan companies. Considering how that fan works,
    the low low rotational speed most of the time, the stall type signal
    would be more practical for Dell to use.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Apr 12 01:06:38 2025
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.    

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Apr 12 14:21:51 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

    Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Apr 12 19:53:22 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 4/10/2025 9:40 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I removed the Win10 hd from both computers.

    I then did a HD-Tune for the 8500 and the temp
    dropped to 89! then rose to 91 then 93 but still
    better than before.

    https://postimg.cc/7fqgggSK

    https://postimg.cc/GTKTM5vq

    https://postimg.cc/MnvtQ78h

    Robert

    There is a possibility of a little air movement
    through the 780 drive cage, with only one drive present.
    I think the lower bay, is the better of the two bays
    when only one drive is present.

    The thing is, the 780 does have holes in the drive cage
    area, but the holes are mostly "decorative". There isn't
    a continuous airflow path through the thing. That's part
    of the problem. When both trays are present, the plastic
    blocks various stuff.

    I've purchased disk enclosures before, where the enclosure
    comes with a 40mm (noisy) fan. The fan has a vent hole for
    the fan itself. But the casing has no exhaust vent! This
    means the fan can spin all it wants, and there is no path
    for the air to go. Only something close to the swirling of
    the fan, might get a tiny bit of cooling effect. Otherwise...
    perfectly useless.

    The 8500, you can mess around with the case fan a bit. run it
    off a PWM controller for example.

    https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

    https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    About $30 or so (Noctua are always expensive like that), and
    it uses a SATA power cable (to run the chip making the PWM signal).
    While the device claims to have a "3 amp limit", that's a reference
    to the SATA power connector +12V rating. That thing isn't actually
    a power control device, it just makes a control signal (digital)
    to feed a four pin "PWM" fan. I don't know if the 8500 uses a
    four pin cable for the case fan. If the Dell XPS 8500 case fan
    is a three pin, you could replace it with the fan below which is
    a four pin, and would work with the Noctua four pin controller.

    I have at least $500 worth of Noctua merch in the house, they're
    a curse on price :-)

    You would check the 8500 and see if the fan is 120mm or not.
    This fan, for $11.98, is a 56.3 CFM fan, and using the Noctua
    controller you would set it to about half speed.

    Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type

    https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    But for the 780, controlling the main fan with the Noctua is technically feasible, but the connector situation is a mess. You can't interfere with
    the RPM signal, as the 780 would likely shut off the PC if the
    fan appeared to be stalled (because the RPM signal was disconnected).
    If the PWM becomes disconnected, the fan goes to full speed. If the
    Noctua PWM signal is connected to the PWM wire, then the thing
    is under control and can be dialed to a more useful level.

    Since the 780 is so half baked, the discussions about it may refer to
    the RPM signal, but it might be the alternate design type, which is
    the RPM signal is a "stall" signal, and the logic level (0 or 1 level) indicates whether fan is "stalled" or "turning". Computers don't
    usually do their fans that way, but it is one of the options
    available from the fan companies. Considering how that fan works,
    the low low rotational speed most of the time, the stall type signal
    would be more practical for Dell to use.

    Paul


    I didn't see this post the first time I looked,....sorry

    So you suggest I move the hard drives to the lower bay in both computers?

    I thought I was finished with the computers,.... sigh

    Here's the 780 fan label:

    https://postimg.cc/p9Qs1tVh

    Here's the 8500 rear fan label and it has a 3 pin

    https://postimg.cc/BLqMrwth

    https://postimg.cc/DJBBndX7

    Robert


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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Apr 12 20:50:15 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 4/10/2025 9:40 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I removed the Win10 hd from both computers.

    I then did a HD-Tune for the 8500 and the temp
    dropped to 89! then rose to 91 then 93 but still
    better than before.

    https://postimg.cc/7fqgggSK

    https://postimg.cc/GTKTM5vq

    https://postimg.cc/MnvtQ78h

    Robert

    There is a possibility of a little air movement
    through the 780 drive cage, with only one drive present.
    I think the lower bay, is the better of the two bays
    when only one drive is present.

    The thing is, the 780 does have holes in the drive cage
    area, but the holes are mostly "decorative". There isn't
    a continuous airflow path through the thing. That's part
    of the problem. When both trays are present, the plastic
    blocks various stuff.

    I've purchased disk enclosures before, where the enclosure
    comes with a 40mm (noisy) fan. The fan has a vent hole for
    the fan itself. But the casing has no exhaust vent! This
    means the fan can spin all it wants, and there is no path
    for the air to go. Only something close to the swirling of
    the fan, might get a tiny bit of cooling effect. Otherwise...
    perfectly useless.

    The 8500, you can mess around with the case fan a bit. run it
    off a PWM controller for example.

    https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

    https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    About $30 or so (Noctua are always expensive like that), and
    it uses a SATA power cable (to run the chip making the PWM signal).
    While the device claims to have a "3 amp limit", that's a reference
    to the SATA power connector +12V rating. That thing isn't actually
    a power control device, it just makes a control signal (digital)
    to feed a four pin "PWM" fan. I don't know if the 8500 uses a
    four pin cable for the case fan. If the Dell XPS 8500 case fan
    is a three pin, you could replace it with the fan below which is
    a four pin, and would work with the Noctua four pin controller.

    I have at least $500 worth of Noctua merch in the house, they're
    a curse on price :-)

    You would check the 8500 and see if the fan is 120mm or not.
    This fan, for $11.98, is a 56.3 CFM fan, and using the Noctua
    controller you would set it to about half speed.

    Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type

    https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    But for the 780, controlling the main fan with the Noctua is technically feasible, but the connector situation is a mess. You can't interfere with
    the RPM signal, as the 780 would likely shut off the PC if the
    fan appeared to be stalled (because the RPM signal was disconnected).
    If the PWM becomes disconnected, the fan goes to full speed. If the
    Noctua PWM signal is connected to the PWM wire, then the thing
    is under control and can be dialed to a more useful level.

    Since the 780 is so half baked, the discussions about it may refer to
    the RPM signal, but it might be the alternate design type, which is
    the RPM signal is a "stall" signal, and the logic level (0 or 1 level) indicates whether fan is "stalled" or "turning". Computers don't
    usually do their fans that way, but it is one of the options
    available from the fan companies. Considering how that fan works,
    the low low rotational speed most of the time, the stall type signal
    would be more practical for Dell to use.

    Paul


    I moved the hard drives in the lower bays in both the 8500 and 780.

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Apr 13 02:12:47 2025
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

        Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type
    fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
    The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color
    1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green
    2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
    3 GND Black 1 Black
    4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
    5 Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua,
    then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Apr 13 06:13:31 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

        Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin +12V GND RPM PWM type
    fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
    The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin Wire color Std four pin Wire color
    1 Sens(TACH) White/Yellow 3 Green
    2 +12V Red 2 Yellow
    3 GND Black 1 Black
    4 PWM Blue 4 Blue
    5 Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with +12V GND RPM PWM and connect to the Noctua,
    then come up with cabling to power the Noctua SATA power cable.

    Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Mon Apr 14 06:46:36 2025
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

         Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type
    fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
    The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color
    1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green >> 2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua,
    then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

        Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

    https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

    https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

    Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)

    https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA,
    or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Apr 14 13:08:52 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

         Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type
    fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
    The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color >>> 1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green >>> 2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua,
    then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

        Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

    https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

    https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

    Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)

    https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA,
    or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).

    Paul




    I ordered the controller and fan from Newegg ...

    Here's the inside of the 8500

    https://postimg.cc/30Wwmwqg

    and some connectors

    https://postimg.cc/QVMCR6MH

    I think I have some molex connectors from the
    last time we did this on the 780 for the PCI
    card. Yep,.. I checked and I do have (3) molex
    cables but no Y connectors.

    Robert


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Apr 14 13:47:56 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

         Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type
    fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
    The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color >>> 1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green >>> 2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua,
    then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

        Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

    https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

    https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

    Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)

    https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA,
    or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).

    Paul


    I was online watching a show on Youtube when
    all of a sudden the screen went black but the I
    could still hear the audio and then computer started
    to hum.

    I pressed the start switch to turn it off/on,...
    everything seems OK when it came back up,...but
    that was very strange and frightening.

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Apr 14 14:56:30 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

         Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type
    fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
    The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color >>> 1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green >>> 2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua,
    then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

        Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

    https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

    https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

    Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)

    https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA,
    or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).

    Paul


    I bought a 3 way molex cable,.. I hope I picked the right one.

    https://postimg.cc/jW4xwfMW

    Is the controller supposed to be mounted inside or outside of
    the computer?


    Thanks,.
    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Apr 14 16:57:36 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

         Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type
    fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
    The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color >>> 1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green >>> 2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua,
    then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

        Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

    https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

    https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

    Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)

    https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA,
    or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).

    Paul


    The 8500 hung up and I had to press the start button
    again to turn it off/on but this time when it came back
    up after the unexpected shutdown and offering me all
    the options to reboot and I let it boot normally it went
    into chkdsk on it's own so I let it.

    https://postimg.cc/PpHMygb3


    Afterwards the 8500 came up normally. The 8500 is 96
    degrees,. I'm wondering if I'm loosing a hard drive or
    could it be the monitor that's going?

    I can't believe this is happening,.

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Tue Apr 15 13:39:46 2025
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

          Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type
    fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
    The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d


    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color >>>> 1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green
    2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua,
    then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

         Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

        https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

        https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

        Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works
    with Noctua thing)


    https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215 >>

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA,
    or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work
    with).

        Paul


    The 8500 hung up and I had to press the start button
    again to turn it off/on but this time when it came back
    up after the unexpected shutdown and offering me all
    the options to reboot and I let it boot normally it went
    into chkdsk on it's own so I let it.

    https://postimg.cc/PpHMygb3


    Afterwards the 8500 came up normally.  The 8500 is 96
    degrees,. I'm wondering if I'm loosing a hard drive or
    could it be the monitor that's going?

    I can't believe this is happening,.

    Robert




    A couple of non related things,...

    Seamonkey no longer shows a warning I'm using a older
    version

    https://postimg.cc/sB34p2BN

    Also, lately when I use my USB adaptor the 8500 doesn't
    recognize it on either port. Not always, but it does occur.
    Should I get a new adaptor?

    This concerns me because I use it allot.

    Thanks,
    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Apr 16 07:46:46 2025
    On Mon, 4/14/2025 5:56 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

          Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type
    fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
    The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color >>>> 1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green
    2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua,
    then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

         Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

        https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

        https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

        Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)

        https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA,
    or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with). >>
        Paul


    I bought a 3 way molex cable,.. I hope I picked the right one.

    https://postimg.cc/jW4xwfMW

    Is the controller supposed to be mounted inside or outside of
    the computer?


    Thanks,.
    Robert

    Those are handy to have, even if it does not work out.
    I have a ton of those.

    It's up to you, where you put the controller.

    To place it outside the case, will take more cable
    length than the goods you have ordered.

    If you could get a SATA power connection to lay outside
    the case, then using the Noctua (SATA power) and just
    the four pin fan male on the Noctua body, you could test the
    new fan outside the case. The existing cooling fan could be
    left inside the 8500 while you did the test. That's a way of
    using the 8500 as a power supply. The SATA power would be passed
    through one of the blank PCI slot covers.

    By testing outside the case, and with some source of +12V and GND,
    you can dial the knob for a representative value (about the same airflow
    as the 8500 uses right now).

    That's not very scientific, but it's the best I can do unless
    the project suddenly sprouts gobs of wire length :-) It could
    be placed outside the case, with sufficient wire spliced in.
    Or, extenders used. (They don't make really long extenders,
    these merchants are cheap bastards.) One of the reasons I end
    up making the occasional cable, is I get the length I want.

    You could extend the rotary knob, using a shaft extension, and
    put a hole in the side of the 8500, but that's silly and not
    practical. Various shaft extension methods have been used in
    stereo equipment in the past.

    *******

    I do not know, what your Youtube event means. Normally, screens
    turn black, on a driver failure. The OS can do a driver reset,
    if the OS has a watchdog timer for command execution. It should
    take roughly a second for the screen to recover, if it's a driver
    issue.

    The humming could be the sound of a video card fan, running at
    the wrong speed. On older fans, the driver controls the fan.
    On more modern cards with closed loop feedback, the fan speed
    might be defined by the video card itself, which makes accidental
    "zero speed" commands to a fan, a thing of the past.

    Your symptoms do not match anything in my experience. You could look
    in Eventvwr.msc, but I don't know exactly which area that would be
    in as a log event.

    The screen could also go black, if the GPU just died, but that's
    not in evidence in your description. That means it could be
    a driver issue, but it really should have recovered on its own.
    I've had flaky stuff here, that repeatedly did black screens
    for 1 second outages. It happens.

    And while the machine could have run out of RAM, what are
    the odds of that happening ? Maybe leave a Task Manager
    open on the side of the screen, and see if memory consumption
    is increasing radically during a Youtube session. I could understand
    such a symptom on Windows 10, but Windows 7 should not do that.
    During a session, you can use alt-tab if you want to switch views.
    Keep pressing the tab key, until the selector comes back to the
    original position.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Apr 16 07:53:22 2025
    On Tue, 4/15/2025 4:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

          Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type
    fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
    The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color >>>>> 1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green
    2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua,
    then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

         Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

        https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

        https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

        Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)

        https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).

        Paul


    The 8500 hung up and I had to press the start button
    again to turn it off/on but this time when it came back
    up after the unexpected shutdown and offering me all
    the options to reboot and I let it boot normally it went
    into chkdsk on it's own so I let it.

    https://postimg.cc/PpHMygb3


    Afterwards the 8500 came up normally.  The 8500 is 96
    degrees,. I'm wondering if I'm loosing a hard drive or
    could it be the monitor that's going?

    I can't believe this is happening,.

    Robert




    A couple of non related things,...

    Seamonkey no longer shows a warning I'm using a older
    version

    https://postimg.cc/sB34p2BN

    Also, lately when I use my USB adaptor the 8500 doesn't
    recognize it on either port. Not always, but it does occur.
    Should I get a new adaptor?

    This concerns me because I use it allot.

    Thanks,
    Robert




    The Seamonkey "help" should have version info. I would guess
    that the version -20 is in there now.

    Does the power supply fan make a funny noise ? Might it
    be a power supply issue ?

    There is a limit to how much +5VSB you can draw, so if you're
    charging an iPhone off the 8500 ports, that might be too much
    electrical load for it.

    Overloading +5VSB, will make the machine shut off, not hang.

    Make sure the torsion springs on the Northbridge heatsink
    are still attached to the motherboard. That's just to verify
    the Northbridge is getting cooled.

    And this was going on, before the latest maintenance, so this
    is not a brand new problem, it's just getting worse.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Wed Apr 16 07:26:34 2025
    On Mon, 4/14/2025 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

          Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type
    fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
    The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color >>>> 1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green
    2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua,
    then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

         Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

        https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

        https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

        Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)

        https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA,
    or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with). >>
        Paul




    I ordered the controller and fan from Newegg ...

    Here's the inside of the 8500

    https://postimg.cc/30Wwmwqg

    and some connectors

    https://postimg.cc/QVMCR6MH

    I think I have some molex connectors from the
    last time we did this on the 780 for the PCI
    card. Yep,.. I checked and I do have (3) molex
    cables but no Y connectors.

    Robert

    I see a couple free SATA connectors.

    The Noctus could plug into one of those.

    The SATA have five wires, the yellow is +12V, the
    orange is +3.3V .

    From where the Noctua would plug into one of those, to
    the fan location on the 8500 back panel, might be nine inches of
    wire or so. You would check that the fan has minimum nine
    inches of wire. As I learned at my computer store,
    extenders for fan wire, aren't necessarily a stock item.
    A product that would have worked, was marked as out of stock
    and can't reorder. The product which replaced it, had
    a wiring error. I drove back to the store and pointed out
    what was wrong with the product, without that ruining
    anything on my system. That doesn't happen very often,
    because usually the people who make cables, know what the
    signals are for.

    The only other detail to check, is whether the cooling
    fan is the right size to replace the 8500 one. You would check
    the square side of the fan, and see which standard dimension
    it is, and double check that's the right one.

    There is really no standard, as to where on a motherboard,
    a fan header will show up. Some of them are positioned,
    such that the fan needs a pretty long cable to work. Others
    are closer to where they are supposed to be. (The one for
    the cooling fan on the back of the computer, the exhaust fan,
    usually the header for that is right next to the CPU socket,
    and on the side nearest the cooling fan.

    The Noctua may have a scheme for getting the RPM signal,
    to go back to the original fan header.

    https://noctua.at/pub/media/blfa_files/manual/noctua_na_fc1_manual_en.pdf

    [Item 8] NA-AC4

    The bottom item is the SATA power, which is picking off +12V and GND,
    and those are (eventually) forwarded to the male fan connector (which is
    not shown in that particular Noctua PDF diagram)

    The middle item, plugs into the Noctua body.

    The top item, plugs into the male fan header on the 8500.
    The purpose is to return the RPM signal from the fan, back
    to the motherboard. I have some other kit like this sort of thing,
    and normally they can achieve what is necessary, with just one wire
    plus the fan connector for the header. The ground reference isn't needed, because the ground was established by the SATA power connector.

    8500FanHeader -
    (RPM signal) \ [1] [2]
    \_____ Noctua --- male4 ---------------- 4pinFan-with-RPM-PWM-pins
    /
    /
    Power ----- (I rotated the middle connector towards the Noctua in this diagram)
    (The Noctua controller has two ends, one connector on each end)

    The 8500FanHeader could be three pin or four pin (the 8500 fan is plugged
    into it right now).

    The Noctua four pin connector can mate with either type. The alignment tab is
    a standard width, pin 1 lines up with pin 1 and the tab slides into its mate. If the 8500FanHeader is a three pin male, then one of the positions on the Noctua 4 pin female,
    will hang off the side of the motherboard header. This is not usually a problem (they shouldn't be putting electrolytic cans next to those connectors).

    In the diagram, I put [1] and [2}. These represent cable measurement estimates you need to make, with respect to the "spare" SATA you use for power. The RPM signal has to reach the fan header, so the BIOS won't trip out on "fan speed too low". And the Noctua has to be placed close enough to the new case
    fan, so the cable length will be sufficient.

    If [2] is too short, the Noctua kit has [Item 9], NA-SC1 cable. While it has three ends on it, you would use only one of those and connect the new rear fan to it. But you would only use that cable, if the fan cable was too short. That functions as an extender for the kit. Now, if you do use NA-SC1 cable, note that the three heads are not the same. One head should have four connections, the other two heads have three connections. The head with the four
    connections is the one to use with your new rear fan. The four connections include RPM and PWM. The other two connectors, the RPM connections must
    be missing (RPM signals cannot be combined). Normally that cable is used
    for three fans on a radiator cooler hardware, and only one of the three
    fans is monitored to "prove it is spinning". The other two fans cannot
    be monitored. And you won't be using the un-monitored two heads for your project.

    I have a "hub board" on the big computer, and like the three pin extender cable,
    the hub board sends the PWM signal to *five* fans at the same time. And only one of the fans can be monitored, and the others are "good luck and safe journey"
    items :-) We don't know whether they are running or not.

    So while your three-headed cable is cool and all, it's not always the very
    best design choice. For that, you'd need three, separate, fan extender
    cables. And those are like hens-teeth. I normally make those myself,
    fan cables, but the electronics store closed, and there goes my
    easy source of fan shrouds and gold plated pins. And it doesn't
    make sense to spend $20 on courier fees, for three dollars worth
    of fan goodies. A lot of the etailers, do not accept postal delivery
    as an option.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 16 11:19:28 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/14/2025 5:56 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

          Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type
    fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
    The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color >>>>> 1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green
    2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua,
    then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

         Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

        https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

        https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

        Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)

        https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).

        Paul


    I bought a 3 way molex cable,.. I hope I picked the right one.

    https://postimg.cc/jW4xwfMW

    Is the controller supposed to be mounted inside or outside of
    the computer?


    Thanks,.
    Robert

    Those are handy to have, even if it does not work out.
    I have a ton of those.

    It's up to you, where you put the controller.

    To place it outside the case, will take more cable
    length than the goods you have ordered.

    If you could get a SATA power connection to lay outside
    the case, then using the Noctua (SATA power) and just
    the four pin fan male on the Noctua body, you could test the
    new fan outside the case. The existing cooling fan could be
    left inside the 8500 while you did the test. That's a way of
    using the 8500 as a power supply. The SATA power would be passed
    through one of the blank PCI slot covers.

    By testing outside the case, and with some source of +12V and GND,
    you can dial the knob for a representative value (about the same airflow
    as the 8500 uses right now).

    That's not very scientific, but it's the best I can do unless
    the project suddenly sprouts gobs of wire length :-) It could
    be placed outside the case, with sufficient wire spliced in.
    Or, extenders used. (They don't make really long extenders,
    these merchants are cheap bastards.) One of the reasons I end
    up making the occasional cable, is I get the length I want.

    You could extend the rotary knob, using a shaft extension, and
    put a hole in the side of the 8500, but that's silly and not
    practical. Various shaft extension methods have been used in
    stereo equipment in the past.

    *******

    I do not know, what your Youtube event means. Normally, screens
    turn black, on a driver failure. The OS can do a driver reset,
    if the OS has a watchdog timer for command execution. It should
    take roughly a second for the screen to recover, if it's a driver
    issue.

    The humming could be the sound of a video card fan, running at
    the wrong speed. On older fans, the driver controls the fan.
    On more modern cards with closed loop feedback, the fan speed
    might be defined by the video card itself, which makes accidental
    "zero speed" commands to a fan, a thing of the past.

    Your symptoms do not match anything in my experience. You could look
    in Eventvwr.msc, but I don't know exactly which area that would be
    in as a log event.

    The screen could also go black, if the GPU just died, but that's
    not in evidence in your description. That means it could be
    a driver issue, but it really should have recovered on its own.
    I've had flaky stuff here, that repeatedly did black screens
    for 1 second outages. It happens.

    And while the machine could have run out of RAM, what are
    the odds of that happening ? Maybe leave a Task Manager
    open on the side of the screen, and see if memory consumption
    is increasing radically during a Youtube session. I could understand
    such a symptom on Windows 10, but Windows 7 should not do that.
    During a session, you can use alt-tab if you want to switch views.
    Keep pressing the tab key, until the selector comes back to the
    original position.

    Paul

    I think we'll leave the controller on the inside. Its allot easier.
    It already sound difficult.

    Hmmmmm maybe we should replace the video card ?

    I'll keep monitoring the computers and let you know if anything
    happens.

    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 16 11:21:04 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/15/2025 4:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

          Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type >>>>>> fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right. >>>>>> The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color >>>>>> 1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green
    2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua, >>>>>> then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

         Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

        https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

        https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

        Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)

        https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).

        Paul


    The 8500 hung up and I had to press the start button
    again to turn it off/on but this time when it came back
    up after the unexpected shutdown and offering me all
    the options to reboot and I let it boot normally it went
    into chkdsk on it's own so I let it.

    https://postimg.cc/PpHMygb3


    Afterwards the 8500 came up normally.  The 8500 is 96
    degrees,. I'm wondering if I'm loosing a hard drive or
    could it be the monitor that's going?

    I can't believe this is happening,.

    Robert




    A couple of non related things,...

    Seamonkey no longer shows a warning I'm using a older
    version

    https://postimg.cc/sB34p2BN

    Also, lately when I use my USB adaptor the 8500 doesn't
    recognize it on either port. Not always, but it does occur.
    Should I get a new adaptor?

    This concerns me because I use it allot.

    Thanks,
    Robert




    The Seamonkey "help" should have version info. I would guess
    that the version -20 is in there now.

    Does the power supply fan make a funny noise ? Might it
    be a power supply issue ?

    There is a limit to how much +5VSB you can draw, so if you're
    charging an iPhone off the 8500 ports, that might be too much
    electrical load for it.

    Overloading +5VSB, will make the machine shut off, not hang.

    Make sure the torsion springs on the Northbridge heatsink
    are still attached to the motherboard. That's just to verify
    the Northbridge is getting cooled.

    And this was going on, before the latest maintenance, so this
    is not a brand new problem, it's just getting worse.

    Paul


    Both computers are dead silent,..

    I don't have a iPhone or use the ports for anything
    except my USB adaptor.

    I'll check the Northbridge heatsink.

    Exactly,..!@!! the computers should be better not worst
    and I shouldn't have to buy a controller/ fan after just
    installing new fans and heatsink etc.

    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 16 11:18:29 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/14/2025 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

          Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type
    fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right.
    The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color >>>>> 1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green
    2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua,
    then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

         Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

        https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

        https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

        Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)

        https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).

        Paul




    I ordered the controller and fan from Newegg ...

    Here's the inside of the 8500

    https://postimg.cc/30Wwmwqg

    and some connectors

    https://postimg.cc/QVMCR6MH

    I think I have some molex connectors from the
    last time we did this on the 780 for the PCI
    card. Yep,.. I checked and I do have (3) molex
    cables but no Y connectors.

    Robert

    I see a couple free SATA connectors.

    The Noctus could plug into one of those.

    The SATA have five wires, the yellow is +12V, the
    orange is +3.3V .

    From where the Noctua would plug into one of those, to
    the fan location on the 8500 back panel, might be nine inches of
    wire or so. You would check that the fan has minimum nine
    inches of wire. As I learned at my computer store,
    extenders for fan wire, aren't necessarily a stock item.
    A product that would have worked, was marked as out of stock
    and can't reorder. The product which replaced it, had
    a wiring error. I drove back to the store and pointed out
    what was wrong with the product, without that ruining
    anything on my system. That doesn't happen very often,
    because usually the people who make cables, know what the
    signals are for.

    The only other detail to check, is whether the cooling
    fan is the right size to replace the 8500 one. You would check
    the square side of the fan, and see which standard dimension
    it is, and double check that's the right one.

    There is really no standard, as to where on a motherboard,
    a fan header will show up. Some of them are positioned,
    such that the fan needs a pretty long cable to work. Others
    are closer to where they are supposed to be. (The one for
    the cooling fan on the back of the computer, the exhaust fan,
    usually the header for that is right next to the CPU socket,
    and on the side nearest the cooling fan.

    The Noctua may have a scheme for getting the RPM signal,
    to go back to the original fan header.

    https://noctua.at/pub/media/blfa_files/manual/noctua_na_fc1_manual_en.pdf

    [Item 8] NA-AC4

    The bottom item is the SATA power, which is picking off +12V and GND,
    and those are (eventually) forwarded to the male fan connector (which is
    not shown in that particular Noctua PDF diagram)

    The middle item, plugs into the Noctua body.

    The top item, plugs into the male fan header on the 8500.
    The purpose is to return the RPM signal from the fan, back
    to the motherboard. I have some other kit like this sort of thing,
    and normally they can achieve what is necessary, with just one wire
    plus the fan connector for the header. The ground reference isn't needed, because the ground was established by the SATA power connector.

    8500FanHeader -
    (RPM signal) \ [1] [2]
    \_____ Noctua --- male4 ---------------- 4pinFan-with-RPM-PWM-pins
    /
    /
    Power ----- (I rotated the middle connector towards the Noctua in this diagram)
    (The Noctua controller has two ends, one connector on each end)

    The 8500FanHeader could be three pin or four pin (the 8500 fan is plugged into it right now).

    The Noctua four pin connector can mate with either type. The alignment tab is a standard width, pin 1 lines up with pin 1 and the tab slides into its mate. If the 8500FanHeader is a three pin male, then one of the positions on the Noctua 4 pin female,
    will hang off the side of the motherboard header. This is not usually a problem
    (they shouldn't be putting electrolytic cans next to those connectors).

    In the diagram, I put [1] and [2}. These represent cable measurement estimates
    you need to make, with respect to the "spare" SATA you use for power. The RPM signal has to reach the fan header, so the BIOS won't trip out on "fan speed too low". And the Noctua has to be placed close enough to the new case
    fan, so the cable length will be sufficient.

    If [2] is too short, the Noctua kit has [Item 9], NA-SC1 cable. While it has three ends on it, you would use only one of those and connect the new rear fan
    to it. But you would only use that cable, if the fan cable was too short. That
    functions as an extender for the kit. Now, if you do use NA-SC1 cable, note that the three heads are not the same. One head should have four connections, the other two heads have three connections. The head with the four connections is the one to use with your new rear fan. The four connections include RPM and PWM. The other two connectors, the RPM connections must
    be missing (RPM signals cannot be combined). Normally that cable is used
    for three fans on a radiator cooler hardware, and only one of the three
    fans is monitored to "prove it is spinning". The other two fans cannot
    be monitored. And you won't be using the un-monitored two heads for your project.

    I have a "hub board" on the big computer, and like the three pin extender cable,
    the hub board sends the PWM signal to *five* fans at the same time. And only one of the fans can be monitored, and the others are "good luck and safe journey"
    items :-) We don't know whether they are running or not.

    So while your three-headed cable is cool and all, it's not always the very best design choice. For that, you'd need three, separate, fan extender cables. And those are like hens-teeth. I normally make those myself,
    fan cables, but the electronics store closed, and there goes my
    easy source of fan shrouds and gold plated pins. And it doesn't
    make sense to spend $20 on courier fees, for three dollars worth
    of fan goodies. A lot of the etailers, do not accept postal delivery
    as an option.

    Paul



    I'll check the wire length for 9 inches,.. and check the fan size.

    I read the Noctura instructions, do you recommend setting it halfway (50%)
    and pressing the no stop?

    I need to re-read your instructions,. I'm totally confused and looks
    to be way more involved than I thought.

    Robert



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 16 13:12:02 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/15/2025 4:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

          Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type >>>>>> fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right. >>>>>> The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color >>>>>> 1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green
    2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua, >>>>>> then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

         Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

        https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

        https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

        Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)

        https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).

        Paul


    The 8500 hung up and I had to press the start button
    again to turn it off/on but this time when it came back
    up after the unexpected shutdown and offering me all
    the options to reboot and I let it boot normally it went
    into chkdsk on it's own so I let it.

    https://postimg.cc/PpHMygb3


    Afterwards the 8500 came up normally.  The 8500 is 96
    degrees,. I'm wondering if I'm loosing a hard drive or
    could it be the monitor that's going?

    I can't believe this is happening,.

    Robert




    A couple of non related things,...

    Seamonkey no longer shows a warning I'm using a older
    version

    https://postimg.cc/sB34p2BN

    Also, lately when I use my USB adaptor the 8500 doesn't
    recognize it on either port. Not always, but it does occur.
    Should I get a new adaptor?

    This concerns me because I use it allot.

    Thanks,
    Robert




    The Seamonkey "help" should have version info. I would guess
    that the version -20 is in there now.

    Does the power supply fan make a funny noise ? Might it
    be a power supply issue ?

    There is a limit to how much +5VSB you can draw, so if you're
    charging an iPhone off the 8500 ports, that might be too much
    electrical load for it.

    Overloading +5VSB, will make the machine shut off, not hang.

    Make sure the torsion springs on the Northbridge heatsink
    are still attached to the motherboard. That's just to verify
    the Northbridge is getting cooled.

    And this was going on, before the latest maintenance, so this
    is not a brand new problem, it's just getting worse.

    Paul




    I checked the 8500 computer

    https://postimg.cc/G8Ht9zTz

    https://postimg.cc/gXQJhRvp

    https://postimg.cc/qzfqMsJX

    these connectors are weird looking? I've never
    seen any like these before?

    https://postimg.cc/mPjgwKQ8

    Also the Northridge heatsink on the 780

    https://postimg.cc/tsB9PWjc

    https://postimg.cc/QFd3XCTJ

    https://postimg.cc/wtS8ckbw


    Although I did ask if there was a way of cooling
    the computers further I had no idea it would be
    so involved. I'm just wondering if it's all worth
    it and I don't want to mess up the 8500. Maybe
    its better we leave it as is?

    I think you'll agree that with cleaning with the
    mini-vac, installing new fans and heatsink with
    thermal paste and removing the Win 10 hd's that
    the computers should be running better, cooler.

    Perhaps they are,..they are dead silent,. and just
    humming along. Maybe they usually run at high
    temps? They've lasted me all these years with the
    old fans and I've both hd's inside for some time.

    Thanks,
    Robert




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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 16 19:41:46 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/15/2025 4:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

          Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type >>>>>> fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right. >>>>>> The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color >>>>>> 1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green
    2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua, >>>>>> then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

         Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

        https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

        https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

        Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)

        https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).

        Paul


    The 8500 hung up and I had to press the start button
    again to turn it off/on but this time when it came back
    up after the unexpected shutdown and offering me all
    the options to reboot and I let it boot normally it went
    into chkdsk on it's own so I let it.

    https://postimg.cc/PpHMygb3


    Afterwards the 8500 came up normally.  The 8500 is 96
    degrees,. I'm wondering if I'm loosing a hard drive or
    could it be the monitor that's going?

    I can't believe this is happening,.

    Robert




    A couple of non related things,...

    Seamonkey no longer shows a warning I'm using a older
    version

    https://postimg.cc/sB34p2BN

    Also, lately when I use my USB adaptor the 8500 doesn't
    recognize it on either port. Not always, but it does occur.
    Should I get a new adaptor?

    This concerns me because I use it allot.

    Thanks,
    Robert




    The Seamonkey "help" should have version info. I would guess
    that the version -20 is in there now.

    Does the power supply fan make a funny noise ? Might it
    be a power supply issue ?

    There is a limit to how much +5VSB you can draw, so if you're
    charging an iPhone off the 8500 ports, that might be too much
    electrical load for it.

    Overloading +5VSB, will make the machine shut off, not hang.

    Make sure the torsion springs on the Northbridge heatsink
    are still attached to the motherboard. That's just to verify
    the Northbridge is getting cooled.

    And this was going on, before the latest maintenance, so this
    is not a brand new problem, it's just getting worse.

    Paul



    Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
    because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
    have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
    buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
    Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc. and
    then store it in case I need it.

    Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.

    Of course, I don't have to buy one now...

    I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
    everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
    fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
    rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
    and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
    also.

    I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
    knock on wood.

    Robert


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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 16 19:24:21 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/15/2025 4:39 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

          Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type >>>>>> fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right. >>>>>> The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color >>>>>> 1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green
    2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua, >>>>>> then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

         Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

        https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

        https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

        Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)

        https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).

        Paul


    The 8500 hung up and I had to press the start button
    again to turn it off/on but this time when it came back
    up after the unexpected shutdown and offering me all
    the options to reboot and I let it boot normally it went
    into chkdsk on it's own so I let it.

    https://postimg.cc/PpHMygb3


    Afterwards the 8500 came up normally.  The 8500 is 96
    degrees,. I'm wondering if I'm loosing a hard drive or
    could it be the monitor that's going?

    I can't believe this is happening,.

    Robert




    A couple of non related things,...

    Seamonkey no longer shows a warning I'm using a older
    version

    https://postimg.cc/sB34p2BN

    Also, lately when I use my USB adaptor the 8500 doesn't
    recognize it on either port. Not always, but it does occur.
    Should I get a new adaptor?

    This concerns me because I use it allot.

    Thanks,
    Robert




    The Seamonkey "help" should have version info. I would guess
    that the version -20 is in there now.

    Does the power supply fan make a funny noise ? Might it
    be a power supply issue ?

    There is a limit to how much +5VSB you can draw, so if you're
    charging an iPhone off the 8500 ports, that might be too much
    electrical load for it.

    Overloading +5VSB, will make the machine shut off, not hang.

    Make sure the torsion springs on the Northbridge heatsink
    are still attached to the motherboard. That's just to verify
    the Northbridge is getting cooled.

    And this was going on, before the latest maintenance, so this
    is not a brand new problem, it's just getting worse.

    Paul


    I was just puttering online and did a search for 8500 XPS
    computers on eBay,... there's quite a few. However I wouldn't
    know what to look for ? Maybe we could get one as a backup for
    the 8500? What do you think?

    https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=dell+8500+xps+computer&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2510209.m570.l1313


    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Thu Apr 17 11:11:27 2025
    On Wed, 4/16/2025 4:12 PM, Robert in CA wrote:

    I checked the 8500 computer

    https://postimg.cc/G8Ht9zTz

    https://postimg.cc/gXQJhRvp

    https://postimg.cc/qzfqMsJX

    these connectors are weird looking? I've never
    seen any like these before?

    https://postimg.cc/mPjgwKQ8

    Also the Northridge heatsink on the 780

    https://postimg.cc/tsB9PWjc

    https://postimg.cc/QFd3XCTJ

    https://postimg.cc/wtS8ckbw


    Although I did ask if there was a way of cooling
    the computers further I had no idea it would be
    so involved. I'm just wondering if it's all worth
    it and I don't want to mess up the 8500. Maybe
    its better we leave it as is?

    I think you'll agree that with cleaning with the
    mini-vac, installing new fans and heatsink with
    thermal paste and removing the Win 10 hd's that
    the computers should be running better, cooler.

    Perhaps they are,..they are dead silent,. and just
    humming along. Maybe they usually run at high
    temps? They've lasted me all these years with the
    old fans and I've both hd's inside for some time.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    This picture of yours, shows two PCI Express 2x3 connectors.
    They can be used on video cards that need auxiliary power.

    A low end video card, draws up to 75W from the PCI Express slot
    connector. A low end card, needs no 2x3 or 2x4 connector.

    But if a card needs more power than that, the end of the video card
    can have additional connectors like the two in your picture.

    https://postimg.cc/mPjgwKQ8

    *******

    These temperature issues happen, because computers typically
    don't have proper custom cooling design.

    Some machines have multiple sensors, and each fan
    can be keyed off a different sensor. The CPU heatsink
    fan should be controlled by the CPU temperature.

    But the case exhaust fan, what should it be controlled by ?
    Should it be hard drive temperature, or case ambient
    air temperature ? That one is a lot tougher to arrange
    properly.

    Some rheobus kits in the past, had their own thermal
    sensors, and you could assign one of the sensors to a
    particular fan. In such a case, you would adhere one
    of the sensors (it has an extension cable) to the HDD casing,
    so that the fan would be sensitive to the HDD temp.

    I have placed cooling fans, right next to HDD before.
    I've had HDD that basically stayed at room temperature,
    because of the amount of room temperature air they got.

    But you have to be lucky, for the casing to have an
    air path, room for the air to move, and a place to
    mount a fan. The ingredients don't come together too
    often.

    Just for kicks, you should have a look around the 8500
    "snout" area and make sure there are no clogged filters.
    Some computer cases have mesh filters to clean the air,
    and if those are present, they have to be cleaned every
    three months (on average).

    On my daily driver computer, I mounted a fan by drilling
    holes in the plastic front of the computer. The fan has
    since been removed, leaving a hole in the case and so on :-)
    But because the mounting frame is there, any time I want
    the fan to be put back there, it is easy to reinstall.

    Your 8500 seems to have an intake relatively close
    to the two hard drives. If the rear fan is blowing
    outwards (it's an exhaust fan), then cool room air
    will be coming in at the bottom front of the 8500.
    and my guess is, the intake air is supposed to be
    cooling the two hard drives. And it will, once you
    crank up the fan speed a bit.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Apr 17 10:50:47 2025
    On Wed, 4/16/2025 2:18 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/14/2025 4:08 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/13/2025 9:13 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/12/2025 5:21 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/11/2025 10:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I had a problem on the 8500,..

    for some reason none of the bookmarked links on FF
    would open up,..nothing,..

    Everything worked on the 780 but I couldn't get any page
    on the 8500 to load.

    I restarted the 8500 and then turned it on/off but it was
    still the same,  nothing.

    Finally,.... they loaded but that was weird and scary..


    Robert

    but you likely have backup copies of your bookmarks.

    And don't forget, for safety, you can use the Export function
    in Firefox, to make a text version of bookmarks. It should
    offer a Save As, and you can store it in a normal user
    storage space.

           Paul



    Yes, I do have a copy of my bookmarks but I should update it.

    understood, but I hope I don't have to go through that again,.

    What do you think about the temperature dropping when I
    removed the Win 10 hd's ?

    Robert


    I think it's good. The temperature could have dropped,
    for total power dissipation in that small space. Or,
    the temperature could have dropped a bit as well, due to
    slightly more room for air to move. That's why I wanted
    the single drive to go in the lower bay, as the 780 moves
    air through the bay area a bit better, if the top drive
    is missing.

    But the path in the 780 drive bay is torturous, and I
    can't even see a way to augment it, with any chance of
    success (so that you could use both of your drives as desired).
    If the structural parts of it are removed (to
    let air to pass), it will fall over.

    And the rest of the 780 casing, is relatively small, and
    any means of supporting a drive in space somehow, could
    potentially interfere with your plugged-in cards.

    If i thought for one second, the thing had a working
    feedback system (fan would speed up if the CPU was >60C),
    then I have some ideas to cause the fan to speed up, by
    blocking off some vent area. But so far, there's no evidence
    the thing speeds up the fan, at any reasonable temperature.

    And that leaves pulling the blue wire out of the five pin
    connector and driving it with the PWM output of the Noctua.
    That is do-able, for someone with the patience and experience,
    but because getting pre-made cabling for that thing is
    such a pain, it's not a "convenience upgrade" where you
    can buy a solution off the shelf. Imagine, for example,
    if Dell had used a standard four pin    +12V GND RPM PWM  type >>>>>> fan, how *easy* this would have been to fix. But no, they had
    to use a connector no one else uses.

    The Noctual four pin device would have the numbering on the right. >>>>>> The Dell 780 has the wiring on the left.

    https://www.dell.com/community/en/conversations/optiplex-desktops/780-cpu-fan-pin-out/647f7c55f4ccf8a8deaaa51d

    Dell MB Pin        Wire color     Std four pin   Wire color >>>>>> 1    Sens(TACH)    White/Yellow      3           Green
    2    +12V          Red               2           Yellow
    3    GND           Black             1           Black
    4    PWM           Blue              4           Blue
    5    Key (N/C/)

    And then you would dial the Noctua, to set the fan speed.
    Turning the knob all the way up, would howl. Turning the
    knob to 30% or so, might be fast enough. and because the
    scheme is digital control and not analog, the Noctua plastic
    housing does not get hot.

    But the problem remains, that even with fan control,
    I doubt the disk enclosure temperature is going to vary
    more than a couple degrees in the good direction. And
    that is because of restrictions in the air path. Sure, there
    are a lot of holes in the top plate, but there is no cleverness
    after that. Any air gaps around the tray are so thin,
    it would take a huge airflow and static pressure to get
    any air movement going.

    The 8500 is a bit more conventional. The Noctua approach
    could be used there. And you could fit a standard four pin
    fan with     +12V GND RPM PWM    and connect to the Noctua, >>>>>> then come up with cabling to power the Noctua  SATA power cable.

          Paul




    I have to say that the computer cases have allot
    to be desired. You'd think they would take cooling
    into consideration when designing them? They should
    mount the fans directly at the hard drives and CPU.

    We've done all we can for the 780 but it has one plus,
    it's usually powered off except for mrimgs, updates etc.
    so its not being used much.

    As for the 8500 we need to overcome the 3 pin connection.
    and figure how to connect the power the controller and fan.

    Robert



    The Noctua is this bit.

         https://noctua.at/en/na-fc1/specification

         https://www.newegg.com/noctua-na-fc1/p/1W8-001X-00014

    This is more or less a "high" fan, which will be dialed
    down to "mid" with the control. A mid is 35CFM, an ultra is 110CFM,
    a high is in between somewhere. A low is below 35 (and mostly useless
    as a purchase).

         Arctic fan with four pin connector, PWM controlled type (works with Noctua thing)

         https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-acfan00121a-case-fan/p/N82E16835186215

    Then you have to look at the 8500, and identify what spare
    connectors are left. There could be a Molex for an optical drive
    maybe. You'll need the SATA power for the two drives in there.

    You might need an adapter or a Y-cable. For example, a Molex to two SATA, >>>> or a SATA to two SATA (which gives a tiny bit of cable length to work with).

         Paul




    I ordered the controller and fan from Newegg ...

    Here's the inside of the 8500

    https://postimg.cc/30Wwmwqg

    and some connectors

    https://postimg.cc/QVMCR6MH

    I think I have some molex connectors from the
    last time we did this on the 780 for the PCI
    card. Yep,.. I checked and I do have (3) molex
    cables but no Y connectors.

    Robert

    I see a couple free SATA connectors.

    The Noctus could plug into one of those.

    The SATA have five wires, the yellow is +12V, the
    orange is +3.3V .

     From where the Noctua would plug into one of those, to
    the fan location on the 8500 back panel, might be nine inches of
    wire or so. You would check that the fan has minimum nine
    inches of wire. As I learned at my computer store,
    extenders for fan wire, aren't necessarily a stock item.
    A product that would have worked, was marked as out of stock
    and can't reorder. The product which replaced it, had
    a wiring error. I drove back to the store and pointed out
    what was wrong with the product, without that ruining
    anything on my system. That doesn't happen very often,
    because usually the people who make cables, know what the
    signals are for.

    The only other detail to check, is whether the cooling
    fan is the right size to replace the 8500 one. You would check
    the square side of the fan, and see which standard dimension
    it is, and double check that's the right one.

    There is really no standard, as to where on a motherboard,
    a fan header will show up. Some of them are positioned,
    such that the fan needs a pretty long cable to work. Others
    are closer to where they are supposed to be. (The one for
    the cooling fan on the back of the computer, the exhaust fan,
    usually the header for that is right next to the CPU socket,
    and on the side nearest the cooling fan.

    The Noctua may have a scheme for getting the RPM signal,
    to go back to the original fan header.

    https://noctua.at/pub/media/blfa_files/manual/noctua_na_fc1_manual_en.pdf

         [Item 8] NA-AC4

    The bottom item is the SATA power, which is picking off +12V and GND,
    and those are (eventually) forwarded to the male fan connector (which is
    not shown in that particular Noctua PDF diagram)

    The middle item, plugs into the Noctua body.

    The top item, plugs into the male fan header on the 8500.
    The purpose is to return the RPM signal from the fan, back
    to the motherboard. I have some other kit like this sort of thing,
    and normally they can achieve what is necessary, with just one wire
    plus the fan connector for the header. The ground reference isn't needed,
    because the ground was established by the SATA power connector.

           8500FanHeader -
           (RPM signal)   \ [1]                          [2]
                           \_____ Noctua --- male4 ---------------- 4pinFan-with-RPM-PWM-pins
                           /
                          /
               Power -----    (I rotated the middle connector towards the Noctua in this diagram)
                              (The Noctua controller has two ends, one connector on each end)

    The 8500FanHeader could be three pin or four pin (the 8500 fan is plugged
    into it right now).

    The Noctua four pin connector can mate with either type. The alignment tab is
    a standard width, pin 1 lines up with pin 1 and the tab slides into its mate.
    If the 8500FanHeader is a three pin male, then one of the positions on the Noctua 4 pin female,
    will hang off the side of the motherboard header. This is not usually a problem
    (they shouldn't be putting electrolytic cans next to those connectors).

    In the diagram, I put [1] and [2}. These represent cable measurement estimates
    you need to make, with respect to the "spare" SATA you use for power. The RPM
    signal has to reach the fan header, so the BIOS won't trip out on "fan speed >> too low". And the Noctua has to be placed close enough to the new case
    fan, so the cable length will be sufficient.

    If [2] is too short, the Noctua kit has [Item 9], NA-SC1 cable. While it has >> three ends on it, you would use only one of those and connect the new rear fan
    to it. But you would only use that cable, if the fan cable was too short. That
    functions as an extender for the kit. Now, if you do use NA-SC1 cable, note >> that the three heads are not the same. One head should have four connections,
    the other two heads have three connections. The head with the four
    connections is the one to use with your new rear fan. The four connections >> include RPM and PWM. The other two connectors, the RPM connections must
    be missing (RPM signals cannot be combined). Normally that cable is used
    for three fans on a radiator cooler hardware, and only one of the three
    fans is monitored to "prove it is spinning". The other two fans cannot
    be monitored. And you won't be using the un-monitored two heads for your project.

    I have a "hub board" on the big computer, and like the three pin extender cable,
    the hub board sends the PWM signal to *five* fans at the same time. And only >> one of the fans can be monitored, and the others are "good luck and safe journey"
    items :-) We don't know whether they are running or not.

    So while your three-headed cable is cool and all, it's not always the very >> best design choice. For that, you'd need three, separate, fan extender
    cables. And those are like hens-teeth. I normally make those myself,
    fan cables, but the electronics store closed, and there goes my
    easy source of fan shrouds and gold plated pins. And it doesn't
    make sense to spend $20 on courier fees, for three dollars worth
    of fan goodies. A lot of the etailers, do not accept postal delivery
    as an option.

        Paul



    I'll check the wire length for 9 inches,.. and check the fan size.

    I read the Noctura instructions, do you recommend setting it halfway (50%) and pressing the no stop?

    I need to re-read your instructions,. I'm totally confused and looks
    to be way more involved than I thought.

    Robert

    It's not.

    The answer is just an attempt to be thorough.

    As long as all the interfaces on the main unit
    connect to something, it's going to work.

    You don't have to press the no-stop.

    If you want to take the side panel off the 780
    for a short while (while tuning the knob setting),
    you can. You just have to take care of the case-open
    switch. The BIOS can be set to react to the case-open
    switch on the right of the case open area. Or, the BIOS
    can have that turned off. If it's turned off in the
    BIOS, then the switch does not matter.

    If you do that, try not to shake the hard drive while
    it is still running. You can do an OS shutdown, and
    then restore the panel to the side, and the drive
    won't get shaken while running (the heads will be parked).

    Once you've got the basic function working, you can go
    back and read the no-stop instructions.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Apr 17 11:30:30 2025
    On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
    because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
    have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
    buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
    Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc.  and
    then store it in case I need it.

    Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.

    Of course, I don't have to buy one now...

    I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
    everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
    fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
    rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
    and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
    also.

    I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
    knock on wood.

    Robert

    It there is a functional 3-way catalytic converter,
    it should pass. The engine has to be in pretty bad
    shape, for a fail.

    It's when you put in a straight pipe, remove the cat,
    and race around town, if you go in for a smog then,
    you're screwed. The cat makes a big difference.

    You're more likely on a safety, to get dinged for
    a poorly fitting gas cap (VOC, organic fumes). And
    that check is easy, since it blows a code on the
    dash if the cap is loose. I bought a brand new
    gas cap at the dealer... and it didn't fit properly,
    and it was purchased by the part number for the
    VIN and everything. It wasn't like they "guessed"
    at which cap to fit.

    But our safety/smog program here has been cut back,
    and the only way to get an actual smog printout, is
    to go to a "speed shop". Regular mechanics no longer
    have the machine for it, the smog check.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu Apr 17 11:22:13 2025
    On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:24 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    I was just puttering online and did a search for 8500 XPS
    computers on eBay,... there's quite a few. However I wouldn't
    know what to look for ? Maybe we could get one as a backup for
    the 8500? What do you think?

    https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=dell+8500+xps+computer&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2510209.m570.l1313


    Robert

    I would think one could be obtained at a reasonable
    price, since the CPU is 3770K and is third generation
    and Intel is up to fourteenth generation as one of
    its flagship processors. Windows 11 is not a good fit
    for the 8500 particularly, and that is a reason some
    8500 machines could end up for sale.

    Because of the "Windows 11 issue", there will be millions
    of PC computers thrown on the street, for junkers to pick up.
    We've already seen this, USENETters finding PCs on the sidewalk
    and finding at least some of them, to be in perfect condition.
    You have to get them though, before they're rained on
    or otherwise mistreated (kicked over).

    It's a nice machine, but at the current time, I would not
    pay more than $200 for it. One reason for that opinion, is
    it uses DDR3 RAM, and DDR3 RAM is mostly out of production,
    and good quality sticks for upgrading a machine, might
    not be available.

    So if you buy a clean one, it is $200 or less.

    But curb-side, some time around the end of the year 2025,
    machines should start being thrown on the street
    (end of Windows 10).

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Apr 17 15:46:07 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
    because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
    have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
    buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
    Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc.  and
    then store it in case I need it.

    Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.

    Of course, I don't have to buy one now...

    I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
    everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
    fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
    rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
    and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
    also.

    I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
    knock on wood.

    Robert

    It there is a functional 3-way catalytic converter,
    it should pass. The engine has to be in pretty bad
    shape, for a fail.

    It's when you put in a straight pipe, remove the cat,
    and race around town, if you go in for a smog then,
    you're screwed. The cat makes a big difference.

    You're more likely on a safety, to get dinged for
    a poorly fitting gas cap (VOC, organic fumes). And
    that check is easy, since it blows a code on the
    dash if the cap is loose. I bought a brand new
    gas cap at the dealer... and it didn't fit properly,
    and it was purchased by the part number for the
    VIN and everything. It wasn't like they "guessed"
    at which cap to fit.

    But our safety/smog program here has been cut back,
    and the only way to get an actual smog printout, is
    to go to a "speed shop". Regular mechanics no longer
    have the machine for it, the smog check.

    Paul


    When I was cleaning the 8500 with the mini-vac
    there was a good amount of dust in the 'snout' area
    but I was able to clean it out. Each time I've worked
    on it I try and clean it.

    The Molex Y cables arrived today and also the fan.
    It has two connections on it. One I suppose goes to
    the header on the motherboard and the other connects
    to the controller? Except the header connection isn't
    the right type. In any case, I opened the 8500 and
    checked the fit and the fan is too large.

    https://postimg.cc/hfMwVmjH

    https://postimg.cc/yDbbbz0j

    https://postimg.cc/4KHSCF5g

    https://postimg.cc/p5RGFVtW

    In passing, the car passed the smog test with flying colors.

    Here's the car,.. 1990 Toyota Corolla SR5, I bought it new

    https://postimg.cc/zHGQQD2d

    Robert



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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Apr 18 03:09:51 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
    because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
    have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
    buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
    Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc.  and
    then store it in case I need it.

    Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.

    Of course, I don't have to buy one now...

    I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
    everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
    fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
    rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
    and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
    also.

    I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
    knock on wood.

    Robert

    It there is a functional 3-way catalytic converter,
    it should pass. The engine has to be in pretty bad
    shape, for a fail.

    It's when you put in a straight pipe, remove the cat,
    and race around town, if you go in for a smog then,
    you're screwed. The cat makes a big difference.

    You're more likely on a safety, to get dinged for
    a poorly fitting gas cap (VOC, organic fumes). And
    that check is easy, since it blows a code on the
    dash if the cap is loose. I bought a brand new
    gas cap at the dealer... and it didn't fit properly,
    and it was purchased by the part number for the
    VIN and everything. It wasn't like they "guessed"
    at which cap to fit.

    But our safety/smog program here has been cut back,
    and the only way to get an actual smog printout, is
    to go to a "speed shop". Regular mechanics no longer
    have the machine for it, the smog check.

    Paul



    Same here, you have to go to an authorized shop.

    Robert

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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Apr 18 03:59:19 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
    because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
    have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
    buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
    Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc.  and
    then store it in case I need it.

    Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.

    Of course, I don't have to buy one now...

    I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
    everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
    fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
    rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
    and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
    also.

    I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
    knock on wood.

    Robert

    It there is a functional 3-way catalytic converter,
    it should pass. The engine has to be in pretty bad
    shape, for a fail.

    It's when you put in a straight pipe, remove the cat,
    and race around town, if you go in for a smog then,
    you're screwed. The cat makes a big difference.

    You're more likely on a safety, to get dinged for
    a poorly fitting gas cap (VOC, organic fumes). And
    that check is easy, since it blows a code on the
    dash if the cap is loose. I bought a brand new
    gas cap at the dealer... and it didn't fit properly,
    and it was purchased by the part number for the
    VIN and everything. It wasn't like they "guessed"
    at which cap to fit.

    But our safety/smog program here has been cut back,
    and the only way to get an actual smog printout, is
    to go to a "speed shop". Regular mechanics no longer
    have the machine for it, the smog check.

    Paul



    The same thing happened again,.. I was watching a program
    on YouTube and the screen went black into power saving mode
    but I could still hear the audio. There wasn't any humming
    or anything. So I pressed the start button to turn it off.
    After waiting 30 seconds I turned it back on.

    All seems normal but this is getting weird and I'm wondering
    if I'm loosing the 8500. I hope not after all our work and
    effort.

    Robert


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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Apr 18 05:57:45 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
    because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
    have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
    buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
    Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc.  and
    then store it in case I need it.

    Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.

    Of course, I don't have to buy one now...

    I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
    everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
    fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
    rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
    and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
    also.

    I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
    knock on wood.

    Robert

    It there is a functional 3-way catalytic converter,
    it should pass. The engine has to be in pretty bad
    shape, for a fail.

    It's when you put in a straight pipe, remove the cat,
    and race around town, if you go in for a smog then,
    you're screwed. The cat makes a big difference.

    You're more likely on a safety, to get dinged for
    a poorly fitting gas cap (VOC, organic fumes). And
    that check is easy, since it blows a code on the
    dash if the cap is loose. I bought a brand new
    gas cap at the dealer... and it didn't fit properly,
    and it was purchased by the part number for the
    VIN and everything. It wasn't like they "guessed"
    at which cap to fit.

    But our safety/smog program here has been cut back,
    and the only way to get an actual smog printout, is
    to go to a "speed shop". Regular mechanics no longer
    have the machine for it, the smog check.

    Paul



    I hope I don't loose the 8500, it's a great computer,..

    However, if I do, I'll switch over to the 780 and switch
    monitors.

    I'm also thinking if that happens of buying another 8500 on
    eBay to replace it. I know I could get a more up to date
    computer but that also means Win 10 or 11 and you said
    yourself that Win 11 isn't all that great. Also, I have the Win 10
    hard drives if needed and could put them back in the computers.

    In addition, my entire backup system is built around the 8500
    including the spare power supplies we bought for the 8500
    and 780.

    I realize that support has ended Win 7 and will end for Win10
    but the computers seem to be OK for what I do and the pages
    seem to load OK and I have my A/V suite. It's just this recent
    screen blacking out and the humming. Maybe I shouldn't of
    replaced the fans? It's opposite of what it should be doing. I
    shouldn't be having any problems at this point.

    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert









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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Apr 18 14:58:29 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
    because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
    have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
    buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
    Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc.  and
    then store it in case I need it.

    Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.

    Of course, I don't have to buy one now...

    I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
    everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
    fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
    rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
    and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
    also.

    I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
    knock on wood.

    Robert

    It there is a functional 3-way catalytic converter,
    it should pass. The engine has to be in pretty bad
    shape, for a fail.

    It's when you put in a straight pipe, remove the cat,
    and race around town, if you go in for a smog then,
    you're screwed. The cat makes a big difference.

    You're more likely on a safety, to get dinged for
    a poorly fitting gas cap (VOC, organic fumes). And
    that check is easy, since it blows a code on the
    dash if the cap is loose. I bought a brand new
    gas cap at the dealer... and it didn't fit properly,
    and it was purchased by the part number for the
    VIN and everything. It wasn't like they "guessed"
    at which cap to fit.

    But our safety/smog program here has been cut back,
    and the only way to get an actual smog printout, is
    to go to a "speed shop". Regular mechanics no longer
    have the machine for it, the smog check.

    Paul


    I was thinking,.. if I get a 8500 off of eBay will the mrimgs work with it?

    I checked further,.. what do you think of these? Could I just put in a
    Win 7 HD in them?

    Thanks,
    Robert


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/176298436870?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1TMRHJFZZTMBWWCGG&hash=item290c34a906:g:U9YAAOSwWdNl~Fpw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f0K8XNIhdthQYKTFES%2FSrYbvFR4%2FM%
    2B0liDapktlLkPhhPFwHdR0eUwUX0yELU6zduYWtiWE8FAntmEsq8nYtsfVN6KY7tM5DgUbI6CnFGR2jDbWKL8Yh%2FBo9%2FRHisFkOSWx7AgCItohUGbXa2J8Urv7DzDyX9qjZNXJm%2FBCisC%2BWl8LHUab1X8wxFNsAY%2Fd0K%
    2FBee2zqo8IpbITD3ypxZ304IsN8sNk9DAW3XGxiue396adlGMmAE73lsHRuITsf5gsMQ9YK00Yh9Xcw6sqVH%2Fq9CifSUxDv%2Bnsl66lHMm8Q%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1JzZpsll


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/256890078593?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D284133%2C284158%26meid%3D3d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D176298436870%26itm%
    3D256890078593%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimRXIVIWithPreRankerShufflingAspectRecall%26brand%3DDell&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A2568900785933d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%7Cenc%
    3AAQAKAAABIA7Ce8xvk2gRqFJuXvGltapV95a5coUmC3kbciUAKeszNX4A8IWe5JxJ5r%252BLRYQYzs73LRgjHLeJLAFo9eN3z3SPPBDMgMxNOe%252B65zF4iLH%252FTRbhoFWu%252B6IGayBatQepXoBv3%252FhVXoQgjP2nVzXEZ3vfgqQUOKTEh2ZCWEAqNtpJheXxDeRDzsICHaMbf704nZ%252FJQ10oIWruMsSoL%
    252BC5xlP7uAtqZoRZKI1ZYzVijiT00ew%252Fle%252FTM%252FXJb2mmKRdnnK8lUMwBv2iABZcLo8I%252FmXR0DCee9e4GZ007a7dzAkZZaohEhFdy7f72n3S1qHVR1nG9Uc04KL%252F5VyE7JgpFcgu3DsrzhOuG4l37QUYDK23u%252BHHEQ%252ByU7bkWgeBDM0NxDg%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&
    itmmeta=01JS56VRSA1748HAAAE04R1Y85


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1BAB3C07102GWGZ67&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eiBeYfeFCt576dfldR1cvbR9Qd6vc6Mcg8TLgnGhhZEeYoaGmxKI6SgOjm%
    2Fj6RNQ3oGhTI1PejxNaWKaACfN3OLWElKqVYrPWwa8wCfRM1IELtaS6snPt5lBGykQkxIABndMj1%2FTme1%2FdQZUcOayQv3%2Fm6%2FmDrwpxSB0f%2BwlrS9X98nzA1yj%2FyLOQb8%2BfZQkqFOLmhSePCbz%2BqnGgSS%2FBFQHDhBk3tri%2FmMajjdhx8jwF6Y%2BBbLWT8BAc%2F7T%2BRPJA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Sc2abJZQ

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/186744334910?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S24ZBA64YCK3HN2890&hash=item2b7ad46a3e:g:Am0AAOSwHE9nGUzK&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ezhni%
    2BdFFO5SELDf6ijBhPrCYW4nEiXC68bm4vxTGMMBHshluihx0Wbs71R2mdhZ1pmwoG5j2675i8zKryi%2B3HuRNfwRNqAF%2FVwAvg9sceQWpzo4BPoGVQBFs9hA2qqoM5Zpxs67%2FF88asqtFPEHVX2uU6yFHdyKziHclFFCOEUg0OvfDw7IjRz7G5YyN3qKBgqikNw5la4Ot7Bu1sAT%2FO5Yn0xKng4xNl0maYBv1raOG1Nr1TqUn%
    2F3lv%2BYh%2Birex9e53xmz%2Bo4g6kIr6dJF3cUO04YTckjvx4Mp%2BqmAGppQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1pzZpsll


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Apr 18 23:09:39 2025
    On Fri, 4/18/2025 6:59 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
    because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
    have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
    buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
    Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc.  and
    then store it in case I need it.

    Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.

    Of course, I don't have to buy one now...

    I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
    everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
    fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
    rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
    and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
    also.

    I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
    knock on wood.

    Robert

    It there is a functional 3-way catalytic converter,
    it should pass. The engine has to be in pretty bad
    shape, for a fail.

    It's when you put in a straight pipe, remove the cat,
    and race around town, if you go in for a smog then,
    you're screwed. The cat makes a big difference.

    You're more likely on a safety, to get dinged for
    a poorly fitting gas cap (VOC, organic fumes). And
    that check is easy, since it blows a code on the
    dash if the cap is loose. I bought a brand new
    gas cap at the dealer... and it didn't fit properly,
    and it was purchased by the part number for the
    VIN and everything. It wasn't like they "guessed"
    at which cap to fit.

    But our safety/smog program here has been cut back,
    and the only way to get an actual smog printout, is
    to go to a "speed shop". Regular mechanics no longer
    have the machine for it, the smog check.

        Paul



    The same thing happened again,.. I was watching a program
    on YouTube and the screen went black into power saving mode
    but I could still hear the audio. There wasn't any humming
    or anything. So I pressed the start button to turn it off.
    After waiting 30 seconds I turned it back on.

    All seems normal but this is getting weird and I'm wondering
    if I'm loosing the 8500. I hope not after all our work and
    effort.

    Robert



    Try "alt-tab" the next time.

    Also, press the Caps Lock key and see if the LED on the
    keyboard continues to response to presses on Caps Lock.
    This is to check to see if the power to the keyboard has
    also gone off (like some crashes I was getting here).

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri Apr 18 23:07:15 2025
    On Thu, 4/17/2025 6:46 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/16/2025 10:41 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Hmmmmmmm I just thought its not really feasible
    because I only have the two monitors. Plus I don't
    have room for it. The best we could do is for me to
    buy it and set it up with OS, A/V suite, Macrium,
    Seamonkey, Dell imagining, Word, Excel etc.  and
    then store it in case I need it.

    Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew.

    Of course, I don't have to buy one now...

    I just finished spending allot of $$$$$ on replacing
    everything in the car,... fan belts, hoses, air filter,
    fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor,
    rotor, new brakes all around and new rotors up front
    and new right axle. Just changed the oil and oil filter
    also.

    I have to take it in tomorrow to have it smogged,...
    knock on wood.

    Robert

    It there is a functional 3-way catalytic converter,
    it should pass. The engine has to be in pretty bad
    shape, for a fail.

    It's when you put in a straight pipe, remove the cat,
    and race around town, if you go in for a smog then,
    you're screwed. The cat makes a big difference.

    You're more likely on a safety, to get dinged for
    a poorly fitting gas cap (VOC, organic fumes). And
    that check is easy, since it blows a code on the
    dash if the cap is loose. I bought a brand new
    gas cap at the dealer... and it didn't fit properly,
    and it was purchased by the part number for the
    VIN and everything. It wasn't like they "guessed"
    at which cap to fit.

    But our safety/smog program here has been cut back,
    and the only way to get an actual smog printout, is
    to go to a "speed shop". Regular mechanics no longer
    have the machine for it, the smog check.

        Paul


    When I was  cleaning the 8500 with the mini-vac
    there was a good amount of dust in the 'snout' area
    but I was able to clean it out. Each time I've worked
    on it I try and clean it.

    The Molex Y cables arrived today and also the fan.
    It has two connections on it. One I suppose goes to
    the header on the motherboard and the other connects
    to the controller? Except the header connection isn't
    the right type. In any case, I opened the 8500 and
    checked the fit and the fan is too large.

    https://postimg.cc/hfMwVmjH # The power rating seems low, for a "High" fan. The power is similar to a Medium or Low fan.

    https://postimg.cc/yDbbbz0j # Four pin cable, don't know why it has extra wire.

    https://postimg.cc/4KHSCF5g # OK, this wire has the RPM pin missing, so that is for daisy chaining fans, and sharing the PWM signal

    https://postimg.cc/p5RGFVtW # Gee, is the 8500 even using a standard fan size ? That might be a 92mm, can't be sure.

    In passing, the car passed the smog test with flying colors.

    Here's the car,.. 1990 Toyota Corolla SR5, I bought it new

    https://postimg.cc/zHGQQD2d

    Robert


    The fans come in standard sizes. You can measure the
    existing fan and see if it is 40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 120mm, 140mm
    on one of the square edges. Before buying, you verify the size.
    They don't usually print the dimension on the hub, as the
    hub label has electrical requirements, and if you are lucky,
    it has a CFM rating. But they don't always have that, which makes
    judging what you are buying, a bit harder.

    40mm, 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm # the fan outer dimension (80 and 120 are what I stock here usually)
    # But you must check the dimensions, so the screw holes line up.

    15mm, 25mm, 37.5mm # fan thickness, 25mm is a common value for this application.
    # The 37.5mm can create a higher static pressure, blowing air through fine fins.
    # A 15mm one would be "borderline gutless" and not worth the money.

    Low, Medium, High, Ultra # Fan air rating in CFM.
    # A Medium is 35CFM and is a common choice for unadjusted case cooling.
    # A High can be selected for usage with a controller (~70 CFM).
    # Generally, an Ultra is only good in server rooms and at 110 CFM
    # or higher, can be quite noisy. And even with a controller, may still be
    # noisy when operated at a lower speed.

    These are your pictures.

    https://postimg.cc/hfMwVmjH # The power rating seems low, for a "High" fan. The power is similar to a Medium or Low fan.
    # Does the item match the sales description ?

    https://postimg.cc/yDbbbz0j # Four pin cable, don't know why it has extra wire.

    https://postimg.cc/4KHSCF5g # OK, this wire has the RPM pin missing, so that is for daisy chaining fans, and sharing the PWM signal

    https://postimg.cc/p5RGFVtW # Gee, is the 8500 even using a standard fan size ?
    3 That might be a 92mm, can't be sure.

    Take some measurements and see what it matches.

    Just looking at the size difference, the difference
    does not seem to be on the order of an inch, by eye.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri Apr 18 23:12:08 2025
    On Fri, 4/18/2025 8:57 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    I hope I don't loose the 8500, it's a great computer,..

    However, if I do, I'll switch over to the 780 and switch
    monitors.

    I'm also thinking if that happens of buying another 8500 on
    eBay to replace it. I know I could get a more up to date
    computer but that also means Win 10 or 11 and you said
    yourself that Win 11 isn't all that great. Also, I have the Win 10
    hard drives if needed and could put them back in the computers.

    In addition, my entire backup system is built around the 8500
    including the spare power supplies we bought for the 8500
    and 780.

    I realize that support has ended Win 7 and will end for Win10
    but the computers seem to be OK for what I do and the pages
    seem to load OK and I have my A/V suite. It's just this recent
    screen blacking out and the humming. Maybe I shouldn't of
    replaced the fans? It's opposite of what it should be doing. I
    shouldn't be having any problems at this point.

    Thoughts/suggestions?

    Robert

    The issue could be related to the video card.

    Or, it's some kind of driver issue.

    Keep track of the *time* the Youtube video has been
    playing, and see if the time constant is exactly the same
    each time. Maybe it's an issue with the content being
    sent to you or an issue with the browser.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Apr 19 05:06:11 2025
    On Fri, 4/18/2025 5:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:



    https://www.ebay.com/itm/176298436870?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1TMRHJFZZTMBWWCGG&hash=item290c34a906:g:U9YAAOSwWdNl~Fpw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f0K8XNIhdthQYKTFES%2FSrYbvFR4%2FM%
    2B0liDapktlLkPhhPFwHdR0eUwUX0yELU6zduYWtiWE8FAntmEsq8nYtsfVN6KY7tM5DgUbI6CnFGR2jDbWKL8Yh%2FBo9%2FRHisFkOSWx7AgCItohUGbXa2J8Urv7DzDyX9qjZNXJm%2FBCisC%2BWl8LHUab1X8wxFNsAY%2Fd0K%
    2FBee2zqo8IpbITD3ypxZ304IsN8sNk9DAW3XGxiue396adlGMmAE73lsHRuITsf5gsMQ9YK00Yh9Xcw6sqVH%2Fq9CifSUxDv%2Bnsl66lHMm8Q%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1JzZpsll


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/256890078593?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D284133%2C284158%26meid%3D3d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D176298436870%26itm%
    3D256890078593%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimRXIVIWithPreRankerShufflingAspectRecall%26brand%3DDell&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A2568900785933d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%7Cenc%
    3AAQAKAAABIA7Ce8xvk2gRqFJuXvGltapV95a5coUmC3kbciUAKeszNX4A8IWe5JxJ5r%252BLRYQYzs73LRgjHLeJLAFo9eN3z3SPPBDMgMxNOe%252B65zF4iLH%252FTRbhoFWu%252B6IGayBatQepXoBv3%252FhVXoQgjP2nVzXEZ3vfgqQUOKTEh2ZCWEAqNtpJheXxDeRDzsICHaMbf704nZ%252FJQ10oIWruMsSoL%
    252BC5xlP7uAtqZoRZKI1ZYzVijiT00ew%252Fle%252FTM%252FXJb2mmKRdnnK8lUMwBv2iABZcLo8I%252FmXR0DCee9e4GZ007a7dzAkZZaohEhFdy7f72n3S1qHVR1nG9Uc04KL%252F5VyE7JgpFcgu3DsrzhOuG4l37QUYDK23u%252BHHEQ%252ByU7bkWgeBDM0NxDg%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&
    itmmeta=01JS56VRSA1748HAAAE04R1Y85


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1BAB3C07102GWGZ67&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eiBeYfeFCt576dfldR1cvbR9Qd6vc6Mcg8TLgnGhhZEeYoaGmxKI6SgOjm%
    2Fj6RNQ3oGhTI1PejxNaWKaACfN3OLWElKqVYrPWwa8wCfRM1IELtaS6snPt5lBGykQkxIABndMj1%2FTme1%2FdQZUcOayQv3%2Fm6%2FmDrwpxSB0f%2BwlrS9X98nzA1yj%2FyLOQb8%2BfZQkqFOLmhSePCbz%2BqnGgSS%2FBFQHDhBk3tri%2FmMajjdhx8jwF6Y%2BBbLWT8BAc%2F7T%2BRPJA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Sc2abJZQ

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/186744334910?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S24ZBA64YCK3HN2890&hash=item2b7ad46a3e:g:Am0AAOSwHE9nGUzK&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ezhni%
    2BdFFO5SELDf6ijBhPrCYW4nEiXC68bm4vxTGMMBHshluihx0Wbs71R2mdhZ1pmwoG5j2675i8zKryi%2B3HuRNfwRNqAF%2FVwAvg9sceQWpzo4BPoGVQBFs9hA2qqoM5Zpxs67%2FF88asqtFPEHVX2uU6yFHdyKziHclFFCOEUg0OvfDw7IjRz7G5YyN3qKBgqikNw5la4Ot7Bu1sAT%2FO5Yn0xKng4xNl0maYBv1raOG1Nr1TqUn%
    2F3lv%2BYh%2Birex9e53xmz%2Bo4g6kIr6dJF3cUO04YTckjvx4Mp%2BqmAGppQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1pzZpsll


    The ones with the missing hard drive, they're not trying to "refurbish" the PC.

    The refurbisher kit they're allowed to use, would only be for Win11.

    And the CPU version is pretty well too old for Windows 11.
    The CPUs in the examples, are third generation, when Windows 11
    officially supports 8th generation or higher. The Microsoft original
    rules, might have been for the CPU to be a 10th generation, but it
    was relaxed a bit to 8th generation so more machines could be
    refurbished and sold.

    There are "official rules" (which a refurbisher must follow) and
    there are "practical rules". I have Win 11 running on a fourth generation machine, and while the features aren't a particularly good match, it does run.

    The computer case could be in good shape, or it could be scuffed.
    Even if the case condition was mentioned in the advert,
    they will call a case "Grade A", when it really isn't.
    Mine was "Grade A", and the card cage area was bent,
    and that's definitely a no-no. Scuffs don't matter.
    Bent metal... does matter, because cards won't fit if
    the metal is bent.

    The ones with a video card, you could swap a video card.
    But the cards look like AMD video cards,
    and some of those could have been used to mine Ethereum bitcoins.
    That's the only issue I can think of, with regard to used
    cards. The cards might not have been with the machine
    originally, and were slapped in to give the machine a card.
    With a Dell, it helps if the power supply has enough
    output power, to run a high-power video card.

    Keep looking and see if one shows up in better shape than that.

    Those machines should only be on ebay, so the refurbisher
    issue is not policed quite as closely.

    I don't know a good method, to predict success on an Ebay purchase.
    One reason for not putting a hard drive in a machine, is so
    there is "no need to guarantee it works". It would be harder,
    to prove to the seller, it was the sellers fault.

    There are slight differences in the CPU performance on those.
    They're using different processors than your 3770K. If you find 3770K here,
    you can find socket-compatible items in the same table, which would
    represent the other processors in your list.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_processors

    You could also play Youtube content in windows 10 and see
    if the same thing happens or not.

    *******

    Since you now have an extra fan, you can always point the
    extra fan at the video card (assuming the video card
    is passively cooled and does not have a fan of its own).

    The ease of fitting a fan, depends on whether the XPS 8500
    plug-in card section is tool-less like the 780. If there are
    conventional metal slot covers with screws, then the screw hole can be
    used for mounting your own hardware to the machine. On an ATX case,
    the fan blows upwards (while the case is upright) and the bracket
    goes below the vid card (requiring a slot cover to be removed so the
    bracket can be mounted).

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/tCZpjWDb/pci-bracket-fan-cooler-passive-vid-card.jpg

    The fan you bought, is daisy-chain ready, and any extra fan you buy,
    the four pin fan of the new purchase, can plug into the end of the
    fan you just got. The two of them, then run off the same controller,
    but only one of the fans RPM signal is monitored.

    *******

    I recommend running GPUZ while you watch the Youtube video.
    Allow the video to run long enough, so you get some idea
    in the GPUZ output, as to whether the temperature is shooting up.
    Use the rectangular download button, then select any server
    on the next page for the file.

    https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-gpu-z/

    When I tested here, the results were pretty strange. The readout claimed
    the GPU was running "30% load", which is what I might guess if estimating
    the impact, but the temperature moved hardly at all. And the CPU wasn't
    loaded either, so it did not appear to be software-decoded video. The percentage
    of TDP only moved an extra 3% or so. I couldn't really tell where the
    video decoding was happening.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/9M0g3tVH/youtube-GPU-test-monitoring.jpg

    You might not even need to play a video to test. To start with,
    just check the Sensors tab of the GPUZ screen, and see if the
    GPU is already over 60C temperature.

    As I may have explained in the past, I bought two passive video cards.
    One behaved itself and could run without adding a fan next to the card.
    The other used to crash on load. And once a fan+bracket was fitted, it was fine.
    But, those crashes were not to a black screen. Your symptoms are different,
    as if a VPU recover was being done, and it did not recover. On a VPU recover (watchdog timeout), the screen should be black, but only for one second.
    I still can't match your symptoms, to things I've seen.

    Make sure it isn't the monitor doing this. Toggle the power on the
    monitor and see if it comes back. There is *no reason* for the
    monitor to be sensitive to the displayed material, which is why
    I rate this possiblity particularly low down on the list.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Apr 19 09:59:17 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/18/2025 5:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:



    https://www.ebay.com/itm/176298436870?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1TMRHJFZZTMBWWCGG&hash=item290c34a906:g:U9YAAOSwWdNl~Fpw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f0K8XNIhdthQYKTFES%2FSrYbvFR4%2FM%
    2B0liDapktlLkPhhPFwHdR0eUwUX0yELU6zduYWtiWE8FAntmEsq8nYtsfVN6KY7tM5DgUbI6CnFGR2jDbWKL8Yh%2FBo9%2FRHisFkOSWx7AgCItohUGbXa2J8Urv7DzDyX9qjZNXJm%2FBCisC%2BWl8LHUab1X8wxFNsAY%2Fd0K%
    2FBee2zqo8IpbITD3ypxZ304IsN8sNk9DAW3XGxiue396adlGMmAE73lsHRuITsf5gsMQ9YK00Yh9Xcw6sqVH%2Fq9CifSUxDv%2Bnsl66lHMm8Q%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1JzZpsll


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/256890078593?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D284133%2C284158%26meid%3D3d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D176298436870%26itm%
    3D256890078593%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimRXIVIWithPreRankerShufflingAspectRecall%26brand%3DDell&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A2568900785933d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%7Cenc%
    3AAQAKAAABIA7Ce8xvk2gRqFJuXvGltapV95a5coUmC3kbciUAKeszNX4A8IWe5JxJ5r%252BLRYQYzs73LRgjHLeJLAFo9eN3z3SPPBDMgMxNOe%252B65zF4iLH%252FTRbhoFWu%252B6IGayBatQepXoBv3%252FhVXoQgjP2nVzXEZ3vfgqQUOKTEh2ZCWEAqNtpJheXxDeRDzsICHaMbf704nZ%252FJQ10oIWruMsSoL%
    252BC5xlP7uAtqZoRZKI1ZYzVijiT00ew%252Fle%252FTM%252FXJb2mmKRdnnK8lUMwBv2iABZcLo8I%252FmXR0DCee9e4GZ007a7dzAkZZaohEhFdy7f72n3S1qHVR1nG9Uc04KL%252F5VyE7JgpFcgu3DsrzhOuG4l37QUYDK23u%252BHHEQ%252ByU7bkWgeBDM0NxDg%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&
    itmmeta=01JS56VRSA1748HAAAE04R1Y85


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1BAB3C07102GWGZ67&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eiBeYfeFCt576dfldR1cvbR9Qd6vc6Mcg8TLgnGhhZEeYoaGmxKI6SgOjm%
    2Fj6RNQ3oGhTI1PejxNaWKaACfN3OLWElKqVYrPWwa8wCfRM1IELtaS6snPt5lBGykQkxIABndMj1%2FTme1%2FdQZUcOayQv3%2Fm6%2FmDrwpxSB0f%2BwlrS9X98nzA1yj%2FyLOQb8%2BfZQkqFOLmhSePCbz%2BqnGgSS%2FBFQHDhBk3tri%2FmMajjdhx8jwF6Y%2BBbLWT8BAc%2F7T%2BRPJA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Sc2abJZQ

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/186744334910?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S24ZBA64YCK3HN2890&hash=item2b7ad46a3e:g:Am0AAOSwHE9nGUzK&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ezhni%
    2BdFFO5SELDf6ijBhPrCYW4nEiXC68bm4vxTGMMBHshluihx0Wbs71R2mdhZ1pmwoG5j2675i8zKryi%2B3HuRNfwRNqAF%2FVwAvg9sceQWpzo4BPoGVQBFs9hA2qqoM5Zpxs67%2FF88asqtFPEHVX2uU6yFHdyKziHclFFCOEUg0OvfDw7IjRz7G5YyN3qKBgqikNw5la4Ot7Bu1sAT%2FO5Yn0xKng4xNl0maYBv1raOG1Nr1TqUn%
    2F3lv%2BYh%2Birex9e53xmz%2Bo4g6kIr6dJF3cUO04YTckjvx4Mp%2BqmAGppQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1pzZpsll


    The ones with the missing hard drive, they're not trying to "refurbish" the PC.

    The refurbisher kit they're allowed to use, would only be for Win11.

    And the CPU version is pretty well too old for Windows 11.
    The CPUs in the examples, are third generation, when Windows 11
    officially supports 8th generation or higher. The Microsoft original
    rules, might have been for the CPU to be a 10th generation, but it
    was relaxed a bit to 8th generation so more machines could be
    refurbished and sold.

    There are "official rules" (which a refurbisher must follow) and
    there are "practical rules". I have Win 11 running on a fourth generation machine, and while the features aren't a particularly good match, it does run.

    The computer case could be in good shape, or it could be scuffed.
    Even if the case condition was mentioned in the advert,
    they will call a case "Grade A", when it really isn't.
    Mine was "Grade A", and the card cage area was bent,
    and that's definitely a no-no. Scuffs don't matter.
    Bent metal... does matter, because cards won't fit if
    the metal is bent.

    The ones with a video card, you could swap a video card.
    But the cards look like AMD video cards,
    and some of those could have been used to mine Ethereum bitcoins.
    That's the only issue I can think of, with regard to used
    cards. The cards might not have been with the machine
    originally, and were slapped in to give the machine a card.
    With a Dell, it helps if the power supply has enough
    output power, to run a high-power video card.

    Keep looking and see if one shows up in better shape than that.

    Those machines should only be on ebay, so the refurbisher
    issue is not policed quite as closely.

    I don't know a good method, to predict success on an Ebay purchase.
    One reason for not putting a hard drive in a machine, is so
    there is "no need to guarantee it works". It would be harder,
    to prove to the seller, it was the sellers fault.

    There are slight differences in the CPU performance on those.
    They're using different processors than your 3770K. If you find 3770K here, you can find socket-compatible items in the same table, which would
    represent the other processors in your list.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_processors

    You could also play Youtube content in windows 10 and see
    if the same thing happens or not.

    *******

    Since you now have an extra fan, you can always point the
    extra fan at the video card (assuming the video card
    is passively cooled and does not have a fan of its own).

    The ease of fitting a fan, depends on whether the XPS 8500
    plug-in card section is tool-less like the 780. If there are
    conventional metal slot covers with screws, then the screw hole can be
    used for mounting your own hardware to the machine. On an ATX case,
    the fan blows upwards (while the case is upright) and the bracket
    goes below the vid card (requiring a slot cover to be removed so the
    bracket can be mounted).

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/tCZpjWDb/pci-bracket-fan-cooler-passive-vid-card.jpg

    The fan you bought, is daisy-chain ready, and any extra fan you buy,
    the four pin fan of the new purchase, can plug into the end of the
    fan you just got. The two of them, then run off the same controller,
    but only one of the fans RPM signal is monitored.

    *******

    I recommend running GPUZ while you watch the Youtube video.
    Allow the video to run long enough, so you get some idea
    in the GPUZ output, as to whether the temperature is shooting up.
    Use the rectangular download button, then select any server
    on the next page for the file.

    https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-gpu-z/

    When I tested here, the results were pretty strange. The readout claimed
    the GPU was running "30% load", which is what I might guess if estimating
    the impact, but the temperature moved hardly at all. And the CPU wasn't loaded either, so it did not appear to be software-decoded video. The percentage
    of TDP only moved an extra 3% or so. I couldn't really tell where the
    video decoding was happening.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/9M0g3tVH/youtube-GPU-test-monitoring.jpg

    You might not even need to play a video to test. To start with,
    just check the Sensors tab of the GPUZ screen, and see if the
    GPU is already over 60C temperature.

    As I may have explained in the past, I bought two passive video cards.
    One behaved itself and could run without adding a fan next to the card.
    The other used to crash on load. And once a fan+bracket was fitted, it was fine.
    But, those crashes were not to a black screen. Your symptoms are different, as if a VPU recover was being done, and it did not recover. On a VPU recover (watchdog timeout), the screen should be black, but only for one second.
    I still can't match your symptoms, to things I've seen.

    Make sure it isn't the monitor doing this. Toggle the power on the
    monitor and see if it comes back. There is *no reason* for the
    monitor to be sensitive to the displayed material, which is why
    I rate this possiblity particularly low down on the list.

    Paul




    There's no place to put the fan in the 8500

    https://postimg.cc/0MtCdf8P

    It's pretty big also.

    I doubt I'll find a refurbished 8500 anywhere,.. they are too old,...
    I thought eBay was my best bet. I'll keep looking,...

    I ran the GPUZ while watching a show on
    YouTube.


    https://postimg.cc/bSJ3K56Z

    https://postimg.cc/bSJ3K56Z

    https://postimg.cc/bSJ3K56Z

    https://postimg.cc/bSJ3K56Z


    The monitor is connected with two screws to tighten it on both
    sides and both ends of the cable. However when I checked the monitor
    went black and I had to restart the computer!! Maybe what I have is a
    bad videocard ?

    What do you think?

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Apr 19 14:55:40 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/18/2025 5:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:



    https://www.ebay.com/itm/176298436870?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1TMRHJFZZTMBWWCGG&hash=item290c34a906:g:U9YAAOSwWdNl~Fpw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f0K8XNIhdthQYKTFES%2FSrYbvFR4%2FM%
    2B0liDapktlLkPhhPFwHdR0eUwUX0yELU6zduYWtiWE8FAntmEsq8nYtsfVN6KY7tM5DgUbI6CnFGR2jDbWKL8Yh%2FBo9%2FRHisFkOSWx7AgCItohUGbXa2J8Urv7DzDyX9qjZNXJm%2FBCisC%2BWl8LHUab1X8wxFNsAY%2Fd0K%
    2FBee2zqo8IpbITD3ypxZ304IsN8sNk9DAW3XGxiue396adlGMmAE73lsHRuITsf5gsMQ9YK00Yh9Xcw6sqVH%2Fq9CifSUxDv%2Bnsl66lHMm8Q%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1JzZpsll


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/256890078593?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D284133%2C284158%26meid%3D3d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D176298436870%26itm%
    3D256890078593%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimRXIVIWithPreRankerShufflingAspectRecall%26brand%3DDell&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A2568900785933d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%7Cenc%
    3AAQAKAAABIA7Ce8xvk2gRqFJuXvGltapV95a5coUmC3kbciUAKeszNX4A8IWe5JxJ5r%252BLRYQYzs73LRgjHLeJLAFo9eN3z3SPPBDMgMxNOe%252B65zF4iLH%252FTRbhoFWu%252B6IGayBatQepXoBv3%252FhVXoQgjP2nVzXEZ3vfgqQUOKTEh2ZCWEAqNtpJheXxDeRDzsICHaMbf704nZ%252FJQ10oIWruMsSoL%
    252BC5xlP7uAtqZoRZKI1ZYzVijiT00ew%252Fle%252FTM%252FXJb2mmKRdnnK8lUMwBv2iABZcLo8I%252FmXR0DCee9e4GZ007a7dzAkZZaohEhFdy7f72n3S1qHVR1nG9Uc04KL%252F5VyE7JgpFcgu3DsrzhOuG4l37QUYDK23u%252BHHEQ%252ByU7bkWgeBDM0NxDg%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&
    itmmeta=01JS56VRSA1748HAAAE04R1Y85


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1BAB3C07102GWGZ67&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eiBeYfeFCt576dfldR1cvbR9Qd6vc6Mcg8TLgnGhhZEeYoaGmxKI6SgOjm%
    2Fj6RNQ3oGhTI1PejxNaWKaACfN3OLWElKqVYrPWwa8wCfRM1IELtaS6snPt5lBGykQkxIABndMj1%2FTme1%2FdQZUcOayQv3%2Fm6%2FmDrwpxSB0f%2BwlrS9X98nzA1yj%2FyLOQb8%2BfZQkqFOLmhSePCbz%2BqnGgSS%2FBFQHDhBk3tri%2FmMajjdhx8jwF6Y%2BBbLWT8BAc%2F7T%2BRPJA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Sc2abJZQ

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/186744334910?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S24ZBA64YCK3HN2890&hash=item2b7ad46a3e:g:Am0AAOSwHE9nGUzK&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ezhni%
    2BdFFO5SELDf6ijBhPrCYW4nEiXC68bm4vxTGMMBHshluihx0Wbs71R2mdhZ1pmwoG5j2675i8zKryi%2B3HuRNfwRNqAF%2FVwAvg9sceQWpzo4BPoGVQBFs9hA2qqoM5Zpxs67%2FF88asqtFPEHVX2uU6yFHdyKziHclFFCOEUg0OvfDw7IjRz7G5YyN3qKBgqikNw5la4Ot7Bu1sAT%2FO5Yn0xKng4xNl0maYBv1raOG1Nr1TqUn%
    2F3lv%2BYh%2Birex9e53xmz%2Bo4g6kIr6dJF3cUO04YTckjvx4Mp%2BqmAGppQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1pzZpsll


    The ones with the missing hard drive, they're not trying to "refurbish" the PC.

    The refurbisher kit they're allowed to use, would only be for Win11.

    And the CPU version is pretty well too old for Windows 11.
    The CPUs in the examples, are third generation, when Windows 11
    officially supports 8th generation or higher. The Microsoft original
    rules, might have been for the CPU to be a 10th generation, but it
    was relaxed a bit to 8th generation so more machines could be
    refurbished and sold.

    There are "official rules" (which a refurbisher must follow) and
    there are "practical rules". I have Win 11 running on a fourth generation machine, and while the features aren't a particularly good match, it does run.

    The computer case could be in good shape, or it could be scuffed.
    Even if the case condition was mentioned in the advert,
    they will call a case "Grade A", when it really isn't.
    Mine was "Grade A", and the card cage area was bent,
    and that's definitely a no-no. Scuffs don't matter.
    Bent metal... does matter, because cards won't fit if
    the metal is bent.

    The ones with a video card, you could swap a video card.
    But the cards look like AMD video cards,
    and some of those could have been used to mine Ethereum bitcoins.
    That's the only issue I can think of, with regard to used
    cards. The cards might not have been with the machine
    originally, and were slapped in to give the machine a card.
    With a Dell, it helps if the power supply has enough
    output power, to run a high-power video card.

    Keep looking and see if one shows up in better shape than that.

    Those machines should only be on ebay, so the refurbisher
    issue is not policed quite as closely.

    I don't know a good method, to predict success on an Ebay purchase.
    One reason for not putting a hard drive in a machine, is so
    there is "no need to guarantee it works". It would be harder,
    to prove to the seller, it was the sellers fault.

    There are slight differences in the CPU performance on those.
    They're using different processors than your 3770K. If you find 3770K here, you can find socket-compatible items in the same table, which would
    represent the other processors in your list.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_processors

    You could also play Youtube content in windows 10 and see
    if the same thing happens or not.

    *******

    Since you now have an extra fan, you can always point the
    extra fan at the video card (assuming the video card
    is passively cooled and does not have a fan of its own).

    The ease of fitting a fan, depends on whether the XPS 8500
    plug-in card section is tool-less like the 780. If there are
    conventional metal slot covers with screws, then the screw hole can be
    used for mounting your own hardware to the machine. On an ATX case,
    the fan blows upwards (while the case is upright) and the bracket
    goes below the vid card (requiring a slot cover to be removed so the
    bracket can be mounted).

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/tCZpjWDb/pci-bracket-fan-cooler-passive-vid-card.jpg

    The fan you bought, is daisy-chain ready, and any extra fan you buy,
    the four pin fan of the new purchase, can plug into the end of the
    fan you just got. The two of them, then run off the same controller,
    but only one of the fans RPM signal is monitored.

    *******

    I recommend running GPUZ while you watch the Youtube video.
    Allow the video to run long enough, so you get some idea
    in the GPUZ output, as to whether the temperature is shooting up.
    Use the rectangular download button, then select any server
    on the next page for the file.

    https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-gpu-z/

    When I tested here, the results were pretty strange. The readout claimed
    the GPU was running "30% load", which is what I might guess if estimating
    the impact, but the temperature moved hardly at all. And the CPU wasn't loaded either, so it did not appear to be software-decoded video. The percentage
    of TDP only moved an extra 3% or so. I couldn't really tell where the
    video decoding was happening.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/9M0g3tVH/youtube-GPU-test-monitoring.jpg

    You might not even need to play a video to test. To start with,
    just check the Sensors tab of the GPUZ screen, and see if the
    GPU is already over 60C temperature.

    As I may have explained in the past, I bought two passive video cards.
    One behaved itself and could run without adding a fan next to the card.
    The other used to crash on load. And once a fan+bracket was fitted, it was fine.
    But, those crashes were not to a black screen. Your symptoms are different, as if a VPU recover was being done, and it did not recover. On a VPU recover (watchdog timeout), the screen should be black, but only for one second.
    I still can't match your symptoms, to things I've seen.

    Make sure it isn't the monitor doing this. Toggle the power on the
    monitor and see if it comes back. There is *no reason* for the
    monitor to be sensitive to the displayed material, which is why
    I rate this possiblity particularly low down on the list.

    Paul



    Sorry about that, somehow you got the wrong images,...


    Here's the right ones,,...

    https://postimg.cc/3kDb8P3p

    https://postimg.cc/Wq73B9HJ

    https://postimg.cc/YhvdRJGV

    https://postimg.cc/RN2XDXw0


    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Apr 19 15:30:06 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/18/2025 5:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:



    https://www.ebay.com/itm/176298436870?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1TMRHJFZZTMBWWCGG&hash=item290c34a906:g:U9YAAOSwWdNl~Fpw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f0K8XNIhdthQYKTFES%2FSrYbvFR4%2FM%
    2B0liDapktlLkPhhPFwHdR0eUwUX0yELU6zduYWtiWE8FAntmEsq8nYtsfVN6KY7tM5DgUbI6CnFGR2jDbWKL8Yh%2FBo9%2FRHisFkOSWx7AgCItohUGbXa2J8Urv7DzDyX9qjZNXJm%2FBCisC%2BWl8LHUab1X8wxFNsAY%2Fd0K%
    2FBee2zqo8IpbITD3ypxZ304IsN8sNk9DAW3XGxiue396adlGMmAE73lsHRuITsf5gsMQ9YK00Yh9Xcw6sqVH%2Fq9CifSUxDv%2Bnsl66lHMm8Q%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1JzZpsll


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/256890078593?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D284133%2C284158%26meid%3D3d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D176298436870%26itm%
    3D256890078593%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimRXIVIWithPreRankerShufflingAspectRecall%26brand%3DDell&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A2568900785933d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%7Cenc%
    3AAQAKAAABIA7Ce8xvk2gRqFJuXvGltapV95a5coUmC3kbciUAKeszNX4A8IWe5JxJ5r%252BLRYQYzs73LRgjHLeJLAFo9eN3z3SPPBDMgMxNOe%252B65zF4iLH%252FTRbhoFWu%252B6IGayBatQepXoBv3%252FhVXoQgjP2nVzXEZ3vfgqQUOKTEh2ZCWEAqNtpJheXxDeRDzsICHaMbf704nZ%252FJQ10oIWruMsSoL%
    252BC5xlP7uAtqZoRZKI1ZYzVijiT00ew%252Fle%252FTM%252FXJb2mmKRdnnK8lUMwBv2iABZcLo8I%252FmXR0DCee9e4GZ007a7dzAkZZaohEhFdy7f72n3S1qHVR1nG9Uc04KL%252F5VyE7JgpFcgu3DsrzhOuG4l37QUYDK23u%252BHHEQ%252ByU7bkWgeBDM0NxDg%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&
    itmmeta=01JS56VRSA1748HAAAE04R1Y85


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1BAB3C07102GWGZ67&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eiBeYfeFCt576dfldR1cvbR9Qd6vc6Mcg8TLgnGhhZEeYoaGmxKI6SgOjm%
    2Fj6RNQ3oGhTI1PejxNaWKaACfN3OLWElKqVYrPWwa8wCfRM1IELtaS6snPt5lBGykQkxIABndMj1%2FTme1%2FdQZUcOayQv3%2Fm6%2FmDrwpxSB0f%2BwlrS9X98nzA1yj%2FyLOQb8%2BfZQkqFOLmhSePCbz%2BqnGgSS%2FBFQHDhBk3tri%2FmMajjdhx8jwF6Y%2BBbLWT8BAc%2F7T%2BRPJA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Sc2abJZQ

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/186744334910?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S24ZBA64YCK3HN2890&hash=item2b7ad46a3e:g:Am0AAOSwHE9nGUzK&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ezhni%
    2BdFFO5SELDf6ijBhPrCYW4nEiXC68bm4vxTGMMBHshluihx0Wbs71R2mdhZ1pmwoG5j2675i8zKryi%2B3HuRNfwRNqAF%2FVwAvg9sceQWpzo4BPoGVQBFs9hA2qqoM5Zpxs67%2FF88asqtFPEHVX2uU6yFHdyKziHclFFCOEUg0OvfDw7IjRz7G5YyN3qKBgqikNw5la4Ot7Bu1sAT%2FO5Yn0xKng4xNl0maYBv1raOG1Nr1TqUn%
    2F3lv%2BYh%2Birex9e53xmz%2Bo4g6kIr6dJF3cUO04YTckjvx4Mp%2BqmAGppQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1pzZpsll


    The ones with the missing hard drive, they're not trying to "refurbish" the PC.

    The refurbisher kit they're allowed to use, would only be for Win11.

    And the CPU version is pretty well too old for Windows 11.
    The CPUs in the examples, are third generation, when Windows 11
    officially supports 8th generation or higher. The Microsoft original
    rules, might have been for the CPU to be a 10th generation, but it
    was relaxed a bit to 8th generation so more machines could be
    refurbished and sold.

    There are "official rules" (which a refurbisher must follow) and
    there are "practical rules". I have Win 11 running on a fourth generation machine, and while the features aren't a particularly good match, it does run.

    The computer case could be in good shape, or it could be scuffed.
    Even if the case condition was mentioned in the advert,
    they will call a case "Grade A", when it really isn't.
    Mine was "Grade A", and the card cage area was bent,
    and that's definitely a no-no. Scuffs don't matter.
    Bent metal... does matter, because cards won't fit if
    the metal is bent.

    The ones with a video card, you could swap a video card.
    But the cards look like AMD video cards,
    and some of those could have been used to mine Ethereum bitcoins.
    That's the only issue I can think of, with regard to used
    cards. The cards might not have been with the machine
    originally, and were slapped in to give the machine a card.
    With a Dell, it helps if the power supply has enough
    output power, to run a high-power video card.

    Keep looking and see if one shows up in better shape than that.

    Those machines should only be on ebay, so the refurbisher
    issue is not policed quite as closely.

    I don't know a good method, to predict success on an Ebay purchase.
    One reason for not putting a hard drive in a machine, is so
    there is "no need to guarantee it works". It would be harder,
    to prove to the seller, it was the sellers fault.

    There are slight differences in the CPU performance on those.
    They're using different processors than your 3770K. If you find 3770K here, you can find socket-compatible items in the same table, which would
    represent the other processors in your list.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_processors

    You could also play Youtube content in windows 10 and see
    if the same thing happens or not.

    *******

    Since you now have an extra fan, you can always point the
    extra fan at the video card (assuming the video card
    is passively cooled and does not have a fan of its own).

    The ease of fitting a fan, depends on whether the XPS 8500
    plug-in card section is tool-less like the 780. If there are
    conventional metal slot covers with screws, then the screw hole can be
    used for mounting your own hardware to the machine. On an ATX case,
    the fan blows upwards (while the case is upright) and the bracket
    goes below the vid card (requiring a slot cover to be removed so the
    bracket can be mounted).

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/tCZpjWDb/pci-bracket-fan-cooler-passive-vid-card.jpg

    The fan you bought, is daisy-chain ready, and any extra fan you buy,
    the four pin fan of the new purchase, can plug into the end of the
    fan you just got. The two of them, then run off the same controller,
    but only one of the fans RPM signal is monitored.

    *******

    I recommend running GPUZ while you watch the Youtube video.
    Allow the video to run long enough, so you get some idea
    in the GPUZ output, as to whether the temperature is shooting up.
    Use the rectangular download button, then select any server
    on the next page for the file.

    https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-gpu-z/

    When I tested here, the results were pretty strange. The readout claimed
    the GPU was running "30% load", which is what I might guess if estimating
    the impact, but the temperature moved hardly at all. And the CPU wasn't loaded either, so it did not appear to be software-decoded video. The percentage
    of TDP only moved an extra 3% or so. I couldn't really tell where the
    video decoding was happening.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/9M0g3tVH/youtube-GPU-test-monitoring.jpg

    You might not even need to play a video to test. To start with,
    just check the Sensors tab of the GPUZ screen, and see if the
    GPU is already over 60C temperature.

    As I may have explained in the past, I bought two passive video cards.
    One behaved itself and could run without adding a fan next to the card.
    The other used to crash on load. And once a fan+bracket was fitted, it was fine.
    But, those crashes were not to a black screen. Your symptoms are different, as if a VPU recover was being done, and it did not recover. On a VPU recover (watchdog timeout), the screen should be black, but only for one second.
    I still can't match your symptoms, to things I've seen.

    Make sure it isn't the monitor doing this. Toggle the power on the
    monitor and see if it comes back. There is *no reason* for the
    monitor to be sensitive to the displayed material, which is why
    I rate this possiblity particularly low down on the list.

    Paul


    Here's a few more I found,.. they say it has Win 10 installed
    but I have to go through the setup. Is possible that a Win 7
    hard drive would work on these? One says there was only 1
    owner.

    What do you think?

    Robert

    This one is pretty pricy but I included it to show you.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/186866397246?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCKVQCT6F9MD5MGWSF&hash=item2b821af03e:g:3NoAAOSw3P9nc6Bd&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cjQQT4A%2FbkxTa0cWPf9MjBF%2BYgMVu5nCvmZMUlHcZF0NHcJE%2Ftj%
    2F0Ts8NPzVMQxheu%2B6SxzMwDxUp7wQp5ITltokuXgSUfPAnQ0zEt9R8GXMXMG3RTaLpsWT1jVHm3zzRqpEA%2BqQqNrxUN4538nQ0lAUMC9N0DIi1FesGPaxi8l7KkSlsVEewDkRuaFkStVmuajicMxCXkkRVHFAr%2Fgb%2FUW%2BwoNxiDKsz531IvgpHyQW%
    2FFnt88Sa1QVmE3PQc403Yt4rxcUnDC9u5CppZ5fkQxKDWGVtrPD0tHg7qWIVqoEJlOeTQIyGAcNT5t42j2qcU%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM7I7hgcpl

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCK3KWFPMC68P0MN1E&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZJlWHIavwrW1%2BV085MNCNKkZhgrVZO%
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    https://www.ebay.com/itm/205406720622?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XC19243VP459HHE6H6&hash=item2fd331d26e:g:RRQAAeSw5gFn9Cdr&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eJvC7lfGY32%2Fm4Ml5QCTpsA%
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    2F1rLqNjAN3j93ZREfU8VPlHP0UoiJBkK8%2FtHPKJSOm%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-yO4YHKZQ

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/167449827914?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XDX9A1RF6AK1H1Y2KQ&hash=item26fcc99a4a:g:k-oAAOSwCXBnziW2&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f%
    2F8Ql4PRQjYtZPoP4OIaMc3PUjtAqSRXDjijNYEhUc7f2HG9Hy9AHsKq4GwcHK47n9MXr7SlJY5Wmjs9AgZVtvkfWqCUFUMaroeTW1FGSa8G3dU%2FsV6HzNiJOJ%2BnF7ULibFzuE%2BTh1ZwxWkzUL2HD2C3PooEF%2B63PWjBDsjicrNzZhuznopziM5ct4WE8%2BYsmZNn8Nxi8jI9e82WvfEVTGi11F9%2BDs53DxQwoDU%
    2FeivkqzdpdZbTlr9MkLqM7zZXJxr0AsSEauJ18Jv06HY%2BzB%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-6O4YHKZQ


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/296645413999?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XD8G7CDF4YQSWVJ5DZ&hash=item451171cc6f:g:jOkAAOSw7zJmxqjg&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1d57VSuZp0JKggAzOdLkiK1bYwoY6SnfQn3XmlhHzMwez3wQX7oazXz%
    2BKh0Z4hldCvga2TQQXPU0Xgncq2bnkPowdjq3FFtWmsFVvWfGedma55OJXZE8fATyIIcqYquhFSXn7auwasBbDotVVtOCD3S%2F13GzNBf2LnLHpE0C5Wwae5%2FuyhqRBxaFg2y8B8Q7VQIMhcJ994r3jRqu6uHHHT5euK0d2fcGTGd%2BrzbO46hG9bNcWysls49cGFgntOsR5awZx2P0crx0%
    2Fgzc7iqBwyEQeDMhJHisBVFzK81HbLWDkJUxoO5jfJoDlBQOwvWiXs%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-6O4YHKZQ




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Apr 20 01:46:23 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/18/2025 5:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:



    https://www.ebay.com/itm/176298436870?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1TMRHJFZZTMBWWCGG&hash=item290c34a906:g:U9YAAOSwWdNl~Fpw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f0K8XNIhdthQYKTFES%2FSrYbvFR4%2FM%
    2B0liDapktlLkPhhPFwHdR0eUwUX0yELU6zduYWtiWE8FAntmEsq8nYtsfVN6KY7tM5DgUbI6CnFGR2jDbWKL8Yh%2FBo9%2FRHisFkOSWx7AgCItohUGbXa2J8Urv7DzDyX9qjZNXJm%2FBCisC%2BWl8LHUab1X8wxFNsAY%2Fd0K%
    2FBee2zqo8IpbITD3ypxZ304IsN8sNk9DAW3XGxiue396adlGMmAE73lsHRuITsf5gsMQ9YK00Yh9Xcw6sqVH%2Fq9CifSUxDv%2Bnsl66lHMm8Q%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1JzZpsll


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/256890078593?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D284133%2C284158%26meid%3D3d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D176298436870%26itm%
    3D256890078593%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimRXIVIWithPreRankerShufflingAspectRecall%26brand%3DDell&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A2568900785933d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%7Cenc%
    3AAQAKAAABIA7Ce8xvk2gRqFJuXvGltapV95a5coUmC3kbciUAKeszNX4A8IWe5JxJ5r%252BLRYQYzs73LRgjHLeJLAFo9eN3z3SPPBDMgMxNOe%252B65zF4iLH%252FTRbhoFWu%252B6IGayBatQepXoBv3%252FhVXoQgjP2nVzXEZ3vfgqQUOKTEh2ZCWEAqNtpJheXxDeRDzsICHaMbf704nZ%252FJQ10oIWruMsSoL%
    252BC5xlP7uAtqZoRZKI1ZYzVijiT00ew%252Fle%252FTM%252FXJb2mmKRdnnK8lUMwBv2iABZcLo8I%252FmXR0DCee9e4GZ007a7dzAkZZaohEhFdy7f72n3S1qHVR1nG9Uc04KL%252F5VyE7JgpFcgu3DsrzhOuG4l37QUYDK23u%252BHHEQ%252ByU7bkWgeBDM0NxDg%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&
    itmmeta=01JS56VRSA1748HAAAE04R1Y85


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1BAB3C07102GWGZ67&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eiBeYfeFCt576dfldR1cvbR9Qd6vc6Mcg8TLgnGhhZEeYoaGmxKI6SgOjm%
    2Fj6RNQ3oGhTI1PejxNaWKaACfN3OLWElKqVYrPWwa8wCfRM1IELtaS6snPt5lBGykQkxIABndMj1%2FTme1%2FdQZUcOayQv3%2Fm6%2FmDrwpxSB0f%2BwlrS9X98nzA1yj%2FyLOQb8%2BfZQkqFOLmhSePCbz%2BqnGgSS%2FBFQHDhBk3tri%2FmMajjdhx8jwF6Y%2BBbLWT8BAc%2F7T%2BRPJA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Sc2abJZQ

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/186744334910?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S24ZBA64YCK3HN2890&hash=item2b7ad46a3e:g:Am0AAOSwHE9nGUzK&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ezhni%
    2BdFFO5SELDf6ijBhPrCYW4nEiXC68bm4vxTGMMBHshluihx0Wbs71R2mdhZ1pmwoG5j2675i8zKryi%2B3HuRNfwRNqAF%2FVwAvg9sceQWpzo4BPoGVQBFs9hA2qqoM5Zpxs67%2FF88asqtFPEHVX2uU6yFHdyKziHclFFCOEUg0OvfDw7IjRz7G5YyN3qKBgqikNw5la4Ot7Bu1sAT%2FO5Yn0xKng4xNl0maYBv1raOG1Nr1TqUn%
    2F3lv%2BYh%2Birex9e53xmz%2Bo4g6kIr6dJF3cUO04YTckjvx4Mp%2BqmAGppQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1pzZpsll


    The ones with the missing hard drive, they're not trying to "refurbish" the PC.

    The refurbisher kit they're allowed to use, would only be for Win11.

    And the CPU version is pretty well too old for Windows 11.
    The CPUs in the examples, are third generation, when Windows 11
    officially supports 8th generation or higher. The Microsoft original
    rules, might have been for the CPU to be a 10th generation, but it
    was relaxed a bit to 8th generation so more machines could be
    refurbished and sold.

    There are "official rules" (which a refurbisher must follow) and
    there are "practical rules". I have Win 11 running on a fourth generation machine, and while the features aren't a particularly good match, it does run.

    The computer case could be in good shape, or it could be scuffed.
    Even if the case condition was mentioned in the advert,
    they will call a case "Grade A", when it really isn't.
    Mine was "Grade A", and the card cage area was bent,
    and that's definitely a no-no. Scuffs don't matter.
    Bent metal... does matter, because cards won't fit if
    the metal is bent.

    The ones with a video card, you could swap a video card.
    But the cards look like AMD video cards,
    and some of those could have been used to mine Ethereum bitcoins.
    That's the only issue I can think of, with regard to used
    cards. The cards might not have been with the machine
    originally, and were slapped in to give the machine a card.
    With a Dell, it helps if the power supply has enough
    output power, to run a high-power video card.

    Keep looking and see if one shows up in better shape than that.

    Those machines should only be on ebay, so the refurbisher
    issue is not policed quite as closely.

    I don't know a good method, to predict success on an Ebay purchase.
    One reason for not putting a hard drive in a machine, is so
    there is "no need to guarantee it works". It would be harder,
    to prove to the seller, it was the sellers fault.

    There are slight differences in the CPU performance on those.
    They're using different processors than your 3770K. If you find 3770K here, you can find socket-compatible items in the same table, which would
    represent the other processors in your list.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_processors

    You could also play Youtube content in windows 10 and see
    if the same thing happens or not.

    *******

    Since you now have an extra fan, you can always point the
    extra fan at the video card (assuming the video card
    is passively cooled and does not have a fan of its own).

    The ease of fitting a fan, depends on whether the XPS 8500
    plug-in card section is tool-less like the 780. If there are
    conventional metal slot covers with screws, then the screw hole can be
    used for mounting your own hardware to the machine. On an ATX case,
    the fan blows upwards (while the case is upright) and the bracket
    goes below the vid card (requiring a slot cover to be removed so the
    bracket can be mounted).

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/tCZpjWDb/pci-bracket-fan-cooler-passive-vid-card.jpg

    The fan you bought, is daisy-chain ready, and any extra fan you buy,
    the four pin fan of the new purchase, can plug into the end of the
    fan you just got. The two of them, then run off the same controller,
    but only one of the fans RPM signal is monitored.

    *******

    I recommend running GPUZ while you watch the Youtube video.
    Allow the video to run long enough, so you get some idea
    in the GPUZ output, as to whether the temperature is shooting up.
    Use the rectangular download button, then select any server
    on the next page for the file.

    https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-gpu-z/

    When I tested here, the results were pretty strange. The readout claimed
    the GPU was running "30% load", which is what I might guess if estimating
    the impact, but the temperature moved hardly at all. And the CPU wasn't loaded either, so it did not appear to be software-decoded video. The percentage
    of TDP only moved an extra 3% or so. I couldn't really tell where the
    video decoding was happening.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/9M0g3tVH/youtube-GPU-test-monitoring.jpg

    You might not even need to play a video to test. To start with,
    just check the Sensors tab of the GPUZ screen, and see if the
    GPU is already over 60C temperature.

    As I may have explained in the past, I bought two passive video cards.
    One behaved itself and could run without adding a fan next to the card.
    The other used to crash on load. And once a fan+bracket was fitted, it was fine.
    But, those crashes were not to a black screen. Your symptoms are different, as if a VPU recover was being done, and it did not recover. On a VPU recover (watchdog timeout), the screen should be black, but only for one second.
    I still can't match your symptoms, to things I've seen.

    Make sure it isn't the monitor doing this. Toggle the power on the
    monitor and see if it comes back. There is *no reason* for the
    monitor to be sensitive to the displayed material, which is why
    I rate this possiblity particularly low down on the list.

    Paul



    Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?

    Thanks
    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Apr 20 12:44:53 2025
    On Sat, 4/19/2025 6:30 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    Here's a few more I found,.. they say it has Win 10 installed
    but I have to go through the setup. Is possible that a Win 7
    hard drive would work on these? One says there was only 1
    owner.

    What do you think?

    Robert

    This one is pretty pricy but I included it to show you.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/186866397246?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCKVQCT6F9MD5MGWSF&hash=item2b821af03e:g:3NoAAOSw3P9nc6Bd&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cjQQT4A%2FbkxTa0cWPf9MjBF%2BYgMVu5nCvmZMUlHcZF0NHcJE%2Ftj%
    2F0Ts8NPzVMQxheu%2B6SxzMwDxUp7wQp5ITltokuXgSUfPAnQ0zEt9R8GXMXMG3RTaLpsWT1jVHm3zzRqpEA%2BqQqNrxUN4538nQ0lAUMC9N0DIi1FesGPaxi8l7KkSlsVEewDkRuaFkStVmuajicMxCXkkRVHFAr%2Fgb%2FUW%2BwoNxiDKsz531IvgpHyQW%
    2FFnt88Sa1QVmE3PQc403Yt4rxcUnDC9u5CppZ5fkQxKDWGVtrPD0tHg7qWIVqoEJlOeTQIyGAcNT5t42j2qcU%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM7I7hgcpl

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCK3KWFPMC68P0MN1E&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZJlWHIavwrW1%2BV085MNCNKkZhgrVZO%
    2FfA0e50KzTTTm9jfepVjia8ANIRCFdkjiyNi44lGJ751S4hzvWJwRTF2oAIplnhlQiFZtONzp9oaoIXIJIFt2FwdJZoZkxizmusX41FAFclZ5m0PUAszg1JWu7Mlt%2B5Rr188Rmu9%2F9JVXSfI%2FuRN99zGSFhWr7eGPyABNV7dJ4vqjKa%2FBggAIWOc35Q1IH7ulNgjeVmjMY21hk0e7cVck18WjKjTKi6rHFoK3Enr%
    2FCa1o1yhdduf3yy9ayfVOcEFIgp0K6jM%2BAahVMKyFEEs6vsmCR8JH8%2FJR4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-yO4YHKZQ

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/205406720622?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XC19243VP459HHE6H6&hash=item2fd331d26e:g:RRQAAeSw5gFn9Cdr&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eJvC7lfGY32%2Fm4Ml5QCTpsA%
    2FN3qOowJih8QQal4f04RNFGjEf0OrHZSvakzwjt5pPvqmBj07uSWRJpfkQR%2B3Vc3EqNoANO8AOBRQ1S0ClUYCFcjAp61BBVPVcqeNkEe%2BuyaYDXNAETSlXqAA8Y9DplwFkrrYAdweQpqZPmYAhQooqbShS6Zmwgn2oHwtSimAb0vRsgTNK7OMi%2BQyMQ3GDKBpcxM9PZWT2seQtRMHNEVk%
    2F1rLqNjAN3j93ZREfU8VPlHP0UoiJBkK8%2FtHPKJSOm%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-yO4YHKZQ

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/167449827914?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XDX9A1RF6AK1H1Y2KQ&hash=item26fcc99a4a:g:k-oAAOSwCXBnziW2&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f%
    2F8Ql4PRQjYtZPoP4OIaMc3PUjtAqSRXDjijNYEhUc7f2HG9Hy9AHsKq4GwcHK47n9MXr7SlJY5Wmjs9AgZVtvkfWqCUFUMaroeTW1FGSa8G3dU%2FsV6HzNiJOJ%2BnF7ULibFzuE%2BTh1ZwxWkzUL2HD2C3PooEF%2B63PWjBDsjicrNzZhuznopziM5ct4WE8%2BYsmZNn8Nxi8jI9e82WvfEVTGi11F9%2BDs53DxQwoDU%
    2FeivkqzdpdZbTlr9MkLqM7zZXJxr0AsSEauJ18Jv06HY%2BzB%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-6O4YHKZQ


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/296645413999?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XD8G7CDF4YQSWVJ5DZ&hash=item451171cc6f:g:jOkAAOSw7zJmxqjg&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1d57VSuZp0JKggAzOdLkiK1bYwoY6SnfQn3XmlhHzMwez3wQX7oazXz%
    2BKh0Z4hldCvga2TQQXPU0Xgncq2bnkPowdjq3FFtWmsFVvWfGedma55OJXZE8fATyIIcqYquhFSXn7auwasBbDotVVtOCD3S%2F13GzNBf2LnLHpE0C5Wwae5%2FuyhqRBxaFg2y8B8Q7VQIMhcJ994r3jRqu6uHHHT5euK0d2fcGTGd%2BrzbO46hG9bNcWysls49cGFgntOsR5awZx2P0crx0%
    2Fgzc7iqBwyEQeDMhJHisBVFzK81HbLWDkJUxoO5jfJoDlBQOwvWiXs%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-6O4YHKZQ


    The second one is $130.00 and wouldn't present as much risk
    on a purchase like this.

    The tricky part, is shipping things like this (what distance?). Since that
    one uses an SSD for storage, the SSD can't be "shocked or vibrated"
    in shipping. Only damage to the case by the shipper is a potential issue.
    Like, I would not ship it UPS.

    One way to reduce the possibility of damage to a computer,
    is to remove the cards (video card) and pack it separately.
    Any time there are heavy sub-assemblies in a computer,
    they can get damaged if the unit is dropped. Not all video cards
    are heavy, but the high-end ones can be.

    I don't really know what to advise as a shipping method.

    I got my large computer case OK -- there have been stories in
    the past, of cheap computer cases (like from Newegg), being
    crushed in transit and having to be sent back. Some people
    seem to take pleasure out of doing that to shipped items.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Apr 20 12:51:11 2025
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?

    Thanks
    Robert

    the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.

    The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10.

    If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.

    The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
    it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.

    The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
    order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
    the card you currently own.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Apr 20 12:30:07 2025
    On Sat, 4/19/2025 5:55 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/18/2025 5:58 PM, Robert in CA wrote:



    https://www.ebay.com/itm/176298436870?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1TMRHJFZZTMBWWCGG&hash=item290c34a906:g:U9YAAOSwWdNl~Fpw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f0K8XNIhdthQYKTFES%2FSrYbvFR4%2FM%
    2B0liDapktlLkPhhPFwHdR0eUwUX0yELU6zduYWtiWE8FAntmEsq8nYtsfVN6KY7tM5DgUbI6CnFGR2jDbWKL8Yh%2FBo9%2FRHisFkOSWx7AgCItohUGbXa2J8Urv7DzDyX9qjZNXJm%2FBCisC%2BWl8LHUab1X8wxFNsAY%2Fd0K%
    2FBee2zqo8IpbITD3ypxZ304IsN8sNk9DAW3XGxiue396adlGMmAE73lsHRuITsf5gsMQ9YK00Yh9Xcw6sqVH%2Fq9CifSUxDv%2Bnsl66lHMm8Q%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1JzZpsll


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/256890078593?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D284133%2C284158%26meid%3D3d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D176298436870%26itm%
    3D256890078593%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimRXIVIWithPreRankerShufflingAspectRecall%26brand%3DDell&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A2568900785933d9d18776a224e62bc173827043ef09b%7Cenc%
    3AAQAKAAABIA7Ce8xvk2gRqFJuXvGltapV95a5coUmC3kbciUAKeszNX4A8IWe5JxJ5r%252BLRYQYzs73LRgjHLeJLAFo9eN3z3SPPBDMgMxNOe%252B65zF4iLH%252FTRbhoFWu%252B6IGayBatQepXoBv3%252FhVXoQgjP2nVzXEZ3vfgqQUOKTEh2ZCWEAqNtpJheXxDeRDzsICHaMbf704nZ%252FJQ10oIWruMsSoL%
    252BC5xlP7uAtqZoRZKI1ZYzVijiT00ew%252Fle%252FTM%252FXJb2mmKRdnnK8lUMwBv2iABZcLo8I%252FmXR0DCee9e4GZ007a7dzAkZZaohEhFdy7f72n3S1qHVR1nG9Uc04KL%252F5VyE7JgpFcgu3DsrzhOuG4l37QUYDK23u%252BHHEQ%252ByU7bkWgeBDM0NxDg%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&
    itmmeta=01JS56VRSA1748HAAAE04R1Y85


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S1BAB3C07102GWGZ67&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eiBeYfeFCt576dfldR1cvbR9Qd6vc6Mcg8TLgnGhhZEeYoaGmxKI6SgOjm%
    2Fj6RNQ3oGhTI1PejxNaWKaACfN3OLWElKqVYrPWwa8wCfRM1IELtaS6snPt5lBGykQkxIABndMj1%2FTme1%2FdQZUcOayQv3%2Fm6%2FmDrwpxSB0f%2BwlrS9X98nzA1yj%2FyLOQb8%2BfZQkqFOLmhSePCbz%2BqnGgSS%2FBFQHDhBk3tri%2FmMajjdhx8jwF6Y%2BBbLWT8BAc%2F7T%2BRPJA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Sc2abJZQ

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/186744334910?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer&itmmeta=01JS56P9S24ZBA64YCK3HN2890&hash=item2b7ad46a3e:g:Am0AAOSwHE9nGUzK&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ezhni%
    2BdFFO5SELDf6ijBhPrCYW4nEiXC68bm4vxTGMMBHshluihx0Wbs71R2mdhZ1pmwoG5j2675i8zKryi%2B3HuRNfwRNqAF%2FVwAvg9sceQWpzo4BPoGVQBFs9hA2qqoM5Zpxs67%2FF88asqtFPEHVX2uU6yFHdyKziHclFFCOEUg0OvfDw7IjRz7G5YyN3qKBgqikNw5la4Ot7Bu1sAT%2FO5Yn0xKng4xNl0maYBv1raOG1Nr1TqUn%
    2F3lv%2BYh%2Birex9e53xmz%2Bo4g6kIr6dJF3cUO04YTckjvx4Mp%2BqmAGppQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1pzZpsll


    The ones with the missing hard drive, they're not trying to "refurbish" the PC.

    The refurbisher kit they're allowed to use, would only be for Win11.

    And the CPU version is pretty well too old for Windows 11.
    The CPUs in the examples, are third generation, when Windows 11
    officially supports 8th generation or higher. The Microsoft original
    rules, might have been for the CPU to be a 10th generation, but it
    was relaxed a bit to 8th generation so more machines could be
    refurbished and sold.

    There are "official rules" (which a refurbisher must follow) and
    there are "practical rules". I have Win 11 running on a fourth generation
    machine, and while the features aren't a particularly good match, it does run.

    The computer case could be in good shape, or it could be scuffed.
    Even if the case condition was mentioned in the advert,
    they will call a case "Grade A", when it really isn't.
    Mine was "Grade A", and the card cage area was bent,
    and that's definitely a no-no. Scuffs don't matter.
    Bent metal... does matter, because cards won't fit if
    the metal is bent.

    The ones with a video card, you could swap a video card.
    But the cards look like AMD video cards,
    and some of those could have been used to mine Ethereum bitcoins.
    That's the only issue I can think of, with regard to used
    cards. The cards might not have been with the machine
    originally, and were slapped in to give the machine a card.
    With a Dell, it helps if the power supply has enough
    output power, to run a high-power video card.

    Keep looking and see if one shows up in better shape than that.

    Those machines should only be on ebay, so the refurbisher
    issue is not policed quite as closely.

    I don't know a good method, to predict success on an Ebay purchase.
    One reason for not putting a hard drive in a machine, is so
    there is "no need to guarantee it works". It would be harder,
    to prove to the seller, it was the sellers fault.

    There are slight differences in the CPU performance on those.
    They're using different processors than your 3770K. If you find 3770K here, >> you can find socket-compatible items in the same table, which would
    represent the other processors in your list.

        https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Core_processors

    You could also play Youtube content in windows 10 and see
    if the same thing happens or not.

    *******

    Since you now have an extra fan, you can always point the
    extra fan at the video card (assuming the video card
    is passively cooled and does not have a fan of its own).

    The ease of fitting a fan, depends on whether the XPS 8500
    plug-in card section is tool-less like the 780. If there are
    conventional metal slot covers with screws, then the screw hole can be
    used for mounting your own hardware to the machine. On an ATX case,
    the fan blows upwards (while the case is upright) and the bracket
    goes below the vid card (requiring a slot cover to be removed so the
    bracket can be mounted).

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/tCZpjWDb/pci-bracket-fan-cooler-passive-vid-card.jpg

    The fan you bought, is daisy-chain ready, and any extra fan you buy,
    the four pin fan of the new purchase, can plug into the end of the
    fan you just got. The two of them, then run off the same controller,
    but only one of the fans RPM signal is monitored.

    *******

    I recommend running GPUZ while you watch the Youtube video.
    Allow the video to run long enough, so you get some idea
    in the GPUZ output, as to whether the temperature is shooting up.
    Use the rectangular download button, then select any server
    on the next page for the file.

        https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-gpu-z/

    When I tested here, the results were pretty strange. The readout claimed
    the GPU was running "30% load", which is what I might guess if estimating
    the impact, but the temperature moved hardly at all. And the CPU wasn't
    loaded either, so it did not appear to be software-decoded video. The percentage
    of TDP only moved an extra 3% or so. I couldn't really tell where the
    video decoding was happening.

        [Picture]

         https://i.postimg.cc/9M0g3tVH/youtube-GPU-test-monitoring.jpg

    You might not even need to play a video to test. To start with,
    just check the Sensors tab of the GPUZ screen, and see if the
    GPU is already over 60C temperature.

    As I may have explained in the past, I bought two passive video cards.
    One behaved itself and could run without adding a fan next to the card.
    The other used to crash on load. And once a fan+bracket was fitted, it was fine.
    But, those crashes were not to a black screen. Your symptoms are different, >> as if a VPU recover was being done, and it did not recover. On a VPU recover >> (watchdog timeout), the screen should be black, but only for one second.
    I still can't match your symptoms, to things I've seen.

    Make sure it isn't the monitor doing this. Toggle the power on the
    monitor and see if it comes back. There is *no reason* for the
    monitor to be sensitive to the displayed material, which is why
    I rate this possiblity particularly low down on the list.

        Paul



    Sorry about that, somehow you got the wrong images,...


    Here's the right ones,,...

    https://postimg.cc/3kDb8P3p

    https://postimg.cc/Wq73B9HJ

    https://postimg.cc/YhvdRJGV

    https://postimg.cc/RN2XDXw0


    Robert

    Your first picture, says it is a GT620. And the edge of the card,
    looks like there is no video card fan and it is passively cooled.
    Your temps might be 57C idle and 67C in Youtube.

    https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/geforce-gt-620.c820

    TDP 49 W

    By comparison, the two cards I had which were passively cooled,
    they had estimated TDP of 21W and one card worked no matter what,
    the other card tended to crash when gaming (and my assumption was
    this was related to temperature and a lack of cooling).

    Only the newer cards have a complete closed-loop control system,
    and I don't know which generation got that feature. It's been
    around for a while. NVidia decided to do that, after a couple
    cases of a driver release followed by fan failure, showed that
    software control of fan speed just wasn't good enough.

    Whether you can use a fan bracket, depends on whether the next
    slot is unused, the slot cover for the slot uses a screw to secure
    the slot cover. You take the slot cover off, so you can re-use the
    screw hole for the piece of aluminum stock.

    The commercial fan holders, were kinda flimsy, and they didn't
    point at the thing needing cooling quite the same way, which
    is why I'm not picking out a item like that. I don't even know how
    those install.

    If the XPS 8500 has tool-less slot covers (no screw for the slot cover
    piece of metal), then it would be a lot harder to fit a bracket.
    For example, the Optiplex 780 is tool-less, and there is no place
    to screw down a bracket as a fan holder.

    *******

    Unplug the XPS 8500, then check the fit of the video card
    in the PCI Express slot. There should be a heel lock (a piece of
    plastic with a bump on it, and the bump fits into a groove in
    the heel, and that prevents the tail of the video card from
    coming out of the slot. Heel locks come in a couple of types,
    one type, you rotate it out of position, the other type compresses
    with your fingers, while you attempt to lift the card up.

    You're just checking for obvious visible damage.

    when the card is re-seated, the gold fingers should be low
    enough in the slot, you can't see the gold coloring. If the
    gold was showing, the card might not be seated. If moving
    the card causes a failure, it could be an electrical contact issue.
    You should only play with slot mechanical issues, with the power off.

    Computer motherboards have to be positioned (the nine motherboard
    screws), such that the slot aligns with the computer case mechanicals.
    If there is a skew between the motherboard and the case, the card
    gets "torqued" as it goes into the slot. The card can actually
    end up bent a bit, because of the mis-alignment. The card should
    come out of the slot, and go back in, without needing a hammer
    to fit it. Cards which don't have beveled edges, the insertion
    force of those can be a bit higher. As an example, I fitted an
    old Firewire I/O card yesterday, in a PCI slot, and it was hard
    to fit that card in. and that's because the card edge is "square"
    and isn't beveled for smooth entry.

    Now, you don't have to do any of this. If you feel there is
    an electrical contact or fitment issue, then have a look at
    what is going on. Otherwise, you can ignore this section.

    *******

    67C is a bit warm (the "non-existent fan" setting is 50%,
    implying the card would be calling for cooling if it had
    a fan). The fan would normally engage at 60C, and rise
    from whatever leisurely rate it would otherwise use.

    The chip can go to 90C, 99C, and so on, before it should
    be unstable. But the cards don't always make it that far
    in practice.

    There's no reason to panic. The only reason I'm interested,
    is to understand whether that's enough to cause the black screen.

    Any card that goes in the slot, has to cover Win7 and WIn10,
    and that would be part of the challenge. For example, my 7900 GT
    in the dead PC, that card is barely good for Win10 (I think there
    is one driver that works), so that's how that card made it to
    Win10. Your card is a bit newer than that one.

    The problem is, if you go too far forward in time, there is no
    Win 7 driver. The Test Machine here, I run Win7 in it,
    and the video card is a GTX 1080. I think that card, only
    had the one driver that worked for Win 7, so that's the other
    extreme. And that card is no spring chicken either, it's ten
    years old, and does not receive new drivers any more.

    There are GT 710 cards here (29 watts), for around $50 or so.
    You would select one with a fan, so as to not be "held
    prisoner" by yet another passively cooled fan.

    https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?d=gt+710

    *******

    The GT 730 uses more power (49W), and it will have a fan too.

    https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?d=gt+730

    This one for example, is two slots wide, and has a generous cooler.
    But it also has a relatively small heel on it, and it's unclear
    whether the heel lock will work well. The "depress to release"
    heel lock will work OK, the rotating kind it's hard to say. I have
    a computer case, where bad design leaves a ridge between slots,
    and the dual slot cards won't fit in it (I tried). I can fix that
    in the shop downstairs :-) So for me, it's not a big deal, it's
    just work. Lots of computer cases don't have a problem fitting these.

    https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-gt-730-n730-2gd3v3/p/N82E16814127906

    https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb1280/14-127-906-02.jpg

    The price on this one is no good, but this is to show they did make
    cards which are one slot wide, in a GT 730. The vast majority of
    newly released cards today, are two slots wide, and two slots
    is "the new norm". It's difficult to find one slot cards, even when
    the power requirements are such that a one slot wide card would work.

    https://www.newegg.com/evga-geforce-gt-730-02g-p3-3732-kr/p/N82E16814487363

    The GT 1030 (30 watts) is in the same family as the 1050Ti, GTX 1080, and it would have one driver for Windows 7 as far as I know. But cards
    this modern, no longer have VGA output. I'm just pointing out
    how hard it is to "steer between the two situations". Only a few
    cards have "staying power" at the store, and other models you might
    have used, aren't there.

    https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-gt-1030-gv-n1030oc-2gi/p/1FT-000A-000G5

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Apr 20 12:43:45 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?

    Thanks
    Robert

    the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.

    The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10.

    If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.

    The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
    it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.

    The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
    order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
    the card you currently own.

    Paul



    I opened up the 8500 but I didn't know how to remove
    the video card at the time but I do now (I watched a
    YouTube video). I could go back and do it if you want.
    The video card seemed firmly seated with no gold showing.
    but I'm wondering if its the monitor cable itself ?

    What do you think about using compressed air to clean the
    inside of the computers further?

    https://postimg.cc/xqPZ7725

    https://postimg.cc/gLcgmzWD

    https://postimg.cc/K1hgM9KX

    https://postimg.cc/f3j7LG5g

    https://postimg.cc/DWBWRnxF

    I can ask the eBay seller to remove the HD and Video card
    and package them separate. I'll just ask him to pack everything
    carefully and I'll use regular USPS and hope for the best. It's
    fairly close to me so that helps.

    The $199 Nvidia kind of looks like the one we put in the 780 awhile back.

    I didn't realize video cards with Win 7 and Win10 are hard to find.
    We'll go with what you recommend, the GT730.



    Thanks,
    Robert








    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Apr 20 15:15:12 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?

    Thanks
    Robert

    the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.

    The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10.

    If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.

    The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
    it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.

    The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
    order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
    the card you currently own.

    Paul


    Just to be clear,... this is the computer your recommending,.. this is
    the one with Win 10 installed but I have to do the setup and install my
    A/V suite, Word, Excel Dell Imaging, SeaMonkey, etc. So there's no way a
    Win 7 Pro hd would run on this ?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCK3KWFPMC68P0MN1E&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZJlWHIavwrW1%2BV085MNCNKkZhgrVZO%
    2FfA0e50KzTTTm9jfepVjia8ANIRCFdkjiyNi44lGJ751S4hzvWJwRTF2oAIplnhlQiFZtONzp9oaoIXIJIFt2FwdJZoZkxizmusX41FAFclZ5m0PUAszg1JWu7Mlt%2B5Rr188Rmu9%2F9JVXSfI%2FuRN99zGSFhWr7eGPyABNV7dJ4vqjKa%2FBggAIWOc35Q1IH7ulNgjeVmjMY21hk0e7cVck18WjKjTKi6rHFoK3Enr%
    2FCa1o1yhdduf3yy9ayfVOcEFIgp0K6jM%2BAahVMKyFEEs6vsmCR8JH8%2FJR4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-yO4YHKZQ

    I'll ask him to remove the hard drive and video card and pack them
    separately and to pack the computer carefully.

    I ordered the GT730 video card.

    Robert



    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sun Apr 20 21:10:09 2025
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 3:43 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?

    Thanks
    Robert

    the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.

    The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10. >>
    If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.

    The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
    it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.

    The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
    order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
    the card you currently own.

        Paul



    I opened up the 8500 but I didn't know how to remove
    the video card at the time but I do now (I watched a
    YouTube video). I could go back and do it if you want.
    The video card seemed firmly seated with no gold showing.
    but I'm wondering if its the monitor cable itself ?

    What do you think about using compressed air to clean the
    inside of the computers further?

    https://postimg.cc/xqPZ7725

    https://postimg.cc/gLcgmzWD

    https://postimg.cc/K1hgM9KX

    https://postimg.cc/f3j7LG5g

    https://postimg.cc/DWBWRnxF

    I can ask the eBay seller to remove the HD and Video card
    and package them separate. I'll just ask him to pack everything carefully and I'll use regular USPS and hope for the best. It's
    fairly close to me so that helps.

    The $199 Nvidia kind of looks like the one we put in the 780 awhile back.

    I didn't realize video cards with Win 7 and Win10 are hard to find.
    We'll go with what you recommend, the GT730.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    I'm not a big authority on video cards, I try to notice trends
    in terms of what is making the rounds. Part of the shopping would
    need for the person buying to check for video card driver updates, to see
    if anything is available for each OS version.

    I just noticed on my GTX1080, that there was only one Windows 7 driver,
    and I came this close to not being able to use it on Win7. The FX5200
    cards which I used a lot previously, they span from WinXP to Win8 or so,
    but Win10 had no driver for it. The FX5200 had a good run for its money,
    but it isn't a candidate for W10/W11 use.

    There were a bunch of cards during the Bitcoin/Ethereum era. Mostly
    the cards were used for things like Ethereum (used video card memory
    and needed 4GB of VRAM) and Monero (resource type unknown). Bitcoin
    was easier to generate with dedicated "boxes" for the task, that costs thousands per box. Once the mining craze had a bit of a lull,
    a lot of cards were "retired" and showed up on the used market (like EBay).
    But those weren't always a good deal, as the card could be "cooked"
    from constant high temperature operation, or, the previous owner did not
    undo the firmware change done to the card. This is why we have to be
    a bit skeptical of cards from that era. And I could see cards like
    that showing up in a "refurb" one way or another. But the refurbisher
    would likely recondition the video card and undo any mods done to it.

    You might easily search for cards and find something I missed. Before
    COVID, there used to be a pretty healthy market in weird video cards.
    Stuff that was decades old, you could still find some. But after COVID,
    the old stock looks to have got trashed. And when it comes to cheap
    cards, some of them were only showing up in "batches", which means
    supply of an item might only last two or three weeks. Two of my
    cards here are from batches, and you can't get those cards now.

    The newer cards have more than one potential issue, for an older
    computer user (GOP-only VBIOS video card versus non-UEFI computer).
    Some of the cards were backward compatible, but the very latest cards
    are apparently not compatible (based on one report). For example,
    if I took an RTX 5090 and put it in the Optiplex 780, the screen
    would remain black, because the config space ROM couldn't be loaded
    and understood by the BIOS (and that is ignoring the powering issue
    with a hungry card like that one).

    Finding a GT730 for $50, in the year 2025, that's some kind of miracle
    when the cheapest current cards run $200-$250. No gamer would be
    looking for a GT730 now, but any card with a driver will do as a
    way to display the desktop.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Apr 20 21:32:45 2025
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 6:15 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?

    Thanks
    Robert

    the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.

    The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10. >>
    If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.

    The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
    it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.

    The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
    order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
    the card you currently own.

        Paul


    Just to be clear,...  this is the computer your recommending,.. this is the one with Win 10 installed but I have to do the setup and install my A/V suite, Word, Excel Dell Imaging, SeaMonkey, etc. So there's no way a Win 7 Pro hd would run on this ?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCK3KWFPMC68P0MN1E&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZJlWHIavwrW1%2BV085MNCNKkZhgrVZO%
    2FfA0e50KzTTTm9jfepVjia8ANIRCFdkjiyNi44lGJ751S4hzvWJwRTF2oAIplnhlQiFZtONzp9oaoIXIJIFt2FwdJZoZkxizmusX41FAFclZ5m0PUAszg1JWu7Mlt%2B5Rr188Rmu9%2F9JVXSfI%2FuRN99zGSFhWr7eGPyABNV7dJ4vqjKa%2FBggAIWOc35Q1IH7ulNgjeVmjMY21hk0e7cVck18WjKjTKi6rHFoK3Enr%
    2FCa1o1yhdduf3yy9ayfVOcEFIgp0K6jM%2BAahVMKyFEEs6vsmCR8JH8%2FJR4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-yO4YHKZQ

    I'll ask him to remove the hard drive and video card and pack them
    separately and to pack the computer carefully.

    I ordered the GT730 video card.

    Robert


    I think your Win7 is originally the OS from Dell, and that's a Royalty OEM Windows
    which activates any time it runs on a Dell. It uses the Dell SLIC table from the
    BIOS, to detect it is on a Dell.

    This would allow you to move your Win7 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell.

    If you moved the Win10 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell, that OS
    is a Retail (downloaded) installation as far as I know. In the Free Upgrade era, you could have installed Win10 over top, and the license key from the
    Dell would be used to authorize the Dell for Win10. And that would be
    a way of ensuring, that later, if you moved the original Win10 drive from
    the old Dell to the new Dell, it would even activate. But since we're outside the Free Upgrade era now, that's not going to work. It *might* work, *if*
    the previous owner of the new Dell, happened to test install Win10 some years ago. Then, when your old Win10 drive moved over to the new Dell, it would activate.

    It's a good thing this stuff is simple to understand :-)

    That's why for Enterprise, they have Licensing Experts, people
    who do nothing but answer questions of that nature, identify
    what combination of Snakes and Ladders gets you from A to B.

    I think the Dell in your

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426

    link, uses an SSD, so the hard drive is NAND flash based and quite
    resistant to shock and vibration. Only a heavy video card would need
    to be wrapped separately, if anything.

    OK, that video card isn't that heavy. But the max power is 60W,
    which is at the slot limit (the slot is 75W, but the engineers
    usually de-rate a bit and run the vid card design around 60W or so
    as a max). There does not seem to be a 2x3 connector on that card,
    that I can see.

    https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393

    The card has 1GB of VRAM, which means it couldn't be used for Ethereum.
    The previous owner would have played older games on it, if anything.

    At the bottom of the Techpowerup page, it says:

    Windows 7 / 8.1 / 10:
    Catalyst Software Suite 15.7.1 / 16.2.1 Beta

    which means there is a potential for drivers.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Apr 20 22:12:10 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 3:43 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?

    Thanks
    Robert

    the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.

    The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10. >>>
    If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.

    The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
    it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.

    The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
    order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
    the card you currently own.

        Paul



    I opened up the 8500 but I didn't know how to remove
    the video card at the time but I do now (I watched a
    YouTube video). I could go back and do it if you want.
    The video card seemed firmly seated with no gold showing.
    but I'm wondering if its the monitor cable itself ?

    What do you think about using compressed air to clean the
    inside of the computers further?

    https://postimg.cc/xqPZ7725

    https://postimg.cc/gLcgmzWD

    https://postimg.cc/K1hgM9KX

    https://postimg.cc/f3j7LG5g

    https://postimg.cc/DWBWRnxF

    I can ask the eBay seller to remove the HD and Video card
    and package them separate. I'll just ask him to pack everything carefully and I'll use regular USPS and hope for the best. It's
    fairly close to me so that helps.

    The $199 Nvidia kind of looks like the one we put in the 780 awhile back.

    I didn't realize video cards with Win 7 and Win10 are hard to find.
    We'll go with what you recommend, the GT730.

    Thanks,
    Robert

    I'm not a big authority on video cards, I try to notice trends
    in terms of what is making the rounds. Part of the shopping would
    need for the person buying to check for video card driver updates, to see
    if anything is available for each OS version.

    I just noticed on my GTX1080, that there was only one Windows 7 driver,
    and I came this close to not being able to use it on Win7. The FX5200
    cards which I used a lot previously, they span from WinXP to Win8 or so,
    but Win10 had no driver for it. The FX5200 had a good run for its money,
    but it isn't a candidate for W10/W11 use.

    There were a bunch of cards during the Bitcoin/Ethereum era. Mostly
    the cards were used for things like Ethereum (used video card memory
    and needed 4GB of VRAM) and Monero (resource type unknown). Bitcoin
    was easier to generate with dedicated "boxes" for the task, that costs thousands per box. Once the mining craze had a bit of a lull,
    a lot of cards were "retired" and showed up on the used market (like EBay). But those weren't always a good deal, as the card could be "cooked"
    from constant high temperature operation, or, the previous owner did not
    undo the firmware change done to the card. This is why we have to be
    a bit skeptical of cards from that era. And I could see cards like
    that showing up in a "refurb" one way or another. But the refurbisher
    would likely recondition the video card and undo any mods done to it.

    You might easily search for cards and find something I missed. Before
    COVID, there used to be a pretty healthy market in weird video cards.
    Stuff that was decades old, you could still find some. But after COVID,
    the old stock looks to have got trashed. And when it comes to cheap
    cards, some of them were only showing up in "batches", which means
    supply of an item might only last two or three weeks. Two of my
    cards here are from batches, and you can't get those cards now.

    The newer cards have more than one potential issue, for an older
    computer user (GOP-only VBIOS video card versus non-UEFI computer).
    Some of the cards were backward compatible, but the very latest cards
    are apparently not compatible (based on one report). For example,
    if I took an RTX 5090 and put it in the Optiplex 780, the screen
    would remain black, because the config space ROM couldn't be loaded
    and understood by the BIOS (and that is ignoring the powering issue
    with a hungry card like that one).

    Finding a GT730 for $50, in the year 2025, that's some kind of miracle
    when the cheapest current cards run $200-$250. No gamer would be
    looking for a GT730 now, but any card with a driver will do as a
    way to display the desktop.

    Paul


    I had no idea the history of video cards,... very interesting.

    Robert



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Apr 20 21:56:17 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 6:15 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?

    Thanks
    Robert

    the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.

    The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10. >>>
    If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.

    The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
    it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.

    The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
    order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
    the card you currently own.

        Paul


    Just to be clear,...  this is the computer your recommending,.. this is the one with Win 10 installed but I have to do the setup and install my A/V suite, Word, Excel Dell Imaging, SeaMonkey, etc. So there's no way a Win 7 Pro hd would run on this ?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCK3KWFPMC68P0MN1E&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZJlWHIavwrW1%2BV085MNCNKkZhgrVZO%
    2FfA0e50KzTTTm9jfepVjia8ANIRCFdkjiyNi44lGJ751S4hzvWJwRTF2oAIplnhlQiFZtONzp9oaoIXIJIFt2FwdJZoZkxizmusX41FAFclZ5m0PUAszg1JWu7Mlt%2B5Rr188Rmu9%2F9JVXSfI%2FuRN99zGSFhWr7eGPyABNV7dJ4vqjKa%2FBggAIWOc35Q1IH7ulNgjeVmjMY21hk0e7cVck18WjKjTKi6rHFoK3Enr%
    2FCa1o1yhdduf3yy9ayfVOcEFIgp0K6jM%2BAahVMKyFEEs6vsmCR8JH8%2FJR4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-yO4YHKZQ

    I'll ask him to remove the hard drive and video card and pack them
    separately and to pack the computer carefully.

    I ordered the GT730 video card.

    Robert


    I think your Win7 is originally the OS from Dell, and that's a Royalty OEM Windows
    which activates any time it runs on a Dell. It uses the Dell SLIC table from the
    BIOS, to detect it is on a Dell.

    This would allow you to move your Win7 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell.

    If you moved the Win10 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell, that OS
    is a Retail (downloaded) installation as far as I know. In the Free Upgrade era, you could have installed Win10 over top, and the license key from the Dell would be used to authorize the Dell for Win10. And that would be
    a way of ensuring, that later, if you moved the original Win10 drive from
    the old Dell to the new Dell, it would even activate. But since we're outside the Free Upgrade era now, that's not going to work. It *might* work, *if*
    the previous owner of the new Dell, happened to test install Win10 some years ago. Then, when your old Win10 drive moved over to the new Dell, it would activate.

    It's a good thing this stuff is simple to understand :-)

    That's why for Enterprise, they have Licensing Experts, people
    who do nothing but answer questions of that nature, identify
    what combination of Snakes and Ladders gets you from A to B.

    I think the Dell in your

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426

    link, uses an SSD, so the hard drive is NAND flash based and quite
    resistant to shock and vibration. Only a heavy video card would need
    to be wrapped separately, if anything.

    OK, that video card isn't that heavy. But the max power is 60W,
    which is at the slot limit (the slot is 75W, but the engineers
    usually de-rate a bit and run the vid card design around 60W or so
    as a max). There does not seem to be a 2x3 connector on that card,
    that I can see.

    https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393

    The card has 1GB of VRAM, which means it couldn't be used for Ethereum.
    The previous owner would have played older games on it, if anything.

    At the bottom of the Techpowerup page, it says:

    Windows 7 / 8.1 / 10:
    Catalyst Software Suite 15.7.1 / 16.2.1 Beta

    which means there is a potential for drivers.

    Paul




    I believe your correct with Win7 Pro and we did create the Win 10 Pro
    from the free offer and the 22H2 CD's. So the Win 7 clones should work
    also correct? The Win 10 hd I took out of the 8500 should work then.

    OIC,. it depends if the other computer upgraded with the free Win 10
    offerfor it to work.

    I bought the computer. So we'll see when it arrives,.. I'll switch it
    with the 780 and we can play with it. Maybe I should put my Win10 hd in
    it to start off? or should I finish setting up the existing hd that's in it?

    Robert





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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Mon Apr 21 09:49:40 2025
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 6:15 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?

    Thanks
    Robert

    the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.

    The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10.

    If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.

    The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
    it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.

    The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
    order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
    the card you currently own.

         Paul


    Just to be clear,...  this is the computer your recommending,.. this is the one with Win 10 installed but I have to do the setup and install my A/V suite, Word, Excel Dell Imaging, SeaMonkey, etc. So there's no way a Win 7 Pro hd would run on this ?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCK3KWFPMC68P0MN1E&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZJlWHIavwrW1%2BV085MNCNKkZhgrVZO%
    2FfA0e50KzTTTm9jfepVjia8ANIRCFdkjiyNi44lGJ751S4hzvWJwRTF2oAIplnhlQiFZtONzp9oaoIXIJIFt2FwdJZoZkxizmusX41FAFclZ5m0PUAszg1JWu7Mlt%2B5Rr188Rmu9%2F9JVXSfI%2FuRN99zGSFhWr7eGPyABNV7dJ4vqjKa%2FBggAIWOc35Q1IH7ulNgjeVmjMY21hk0e7cVck18WjKjTKi6rHFoK3Enr%
    2FCa1o1yhdduf3yy9ayfVOcEFIgp0K6jM%2BAahVMKyFEEs6vsmCR8JH8%2FJR4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-yO4YHKZQ

    I'll ask him to remove the hard drive and video card and pack them
    separately and to pack the computer carefully.

    I ordered the GT730 video card.

    Robert


    I think your Win7 is originally the OS from Dell, and that's a Royalty OEM Windows
    which activates any time it runs on a Dell. It uses the Dell SLIC table from the
    BIOS, to detect it is on a Dell.

    This would allow you to move your Win7 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell.

    If you moved the Win10 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell, that OS
    is a Retail (downloaded) installation as far as I know. In the Free Upgrade >> era, you could have installed Win10 over top, and the license key from the >> Dell would be used to authorize the Dell for Win10. And that would be
    a way of ensuring, that later, if you moved the original Win10 drive from
    the old Dell to the new Dell, it would even activate. But since we're outside
    the Free Upgrade era now, that's not going to work. It *might* work, *if*
    the previous owner of the new Dell, happened to test install Win10 some years
    ago. Then, when your old Win10 drive moved over to the new Dell, it would
    activate.

    It's a good thing this stuff is simple to understand :-)

    That's why for Enterprise, they have Licensing Experts, people
    who do nothing but answer questions of that nature, identify
    what combination of Snakes and Ladders gets you from A to B.

    I think the Dell in your

        https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426

    link, uses an SSD, so the hard drive is NAND flash based and quite
    resistant to shock and vibration. Only a heavy video card would need
    to be wrapped separately, if anything.

    OK, that video card isn't that heavy. But the max power is 60W,
    which is at the slot limit (the slot is 75W, but the engineers
    usually de-rate a bit and run the vid card design around 60W or so
    as a max). There does not seem to be a 2x3 connector on that card,
    that I can see.

    https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393

    The card has 1GB of VRAM, which means it couldn't be used for Ethereum.
    The previous owner would have played older games on it, if anything.

    At the bottom of the Techpowerup page, it says:

        Windows 7 / 8.1 / 10:
        Catalyst Software Suite 15.7.1 / 16.2.1 Beta

    which means there is a potential for drivers.

        Paul




    I believe your correct with Win7 Pro and we did create the Win 10 Pro
    from the free offer and the 22H2 CD's. So the Win 7 clones should work
    also correct? The Win 10 hd I took out of the 8500 should work then.

    OIC,. it depends if the other computer upgraded with the free Win 10 offerfor it to work.

    I bought the computer. So we'll see when it arrives,.. I'll switch it with the 780 and we can play with it. Maybe I should put my Win10 hd in it to start off? or should I finish setting up the existing hd that's in it?

    Robert


    If it sold with W10 or W11, then there is a good chance your
    transplanted Win10 drive would work. If it is transplanted
    from the existing 8500, then the drivers should match too.
    Only the video driver would be radically different.

    If I was doing that (conservative approach to avoid "damage"), my steps would be.

    1) Clone old 8500 W10 drive to a temp drive.
    2) Boot the temp drive. Go to Programs and Features and
    remove the existing video card driver. Now, it is
    prepared to run using the Microsoft Basic Display Adapter (VESA driver).
    That's the driver that runs on everything, suited to bring-up.
    3) Move the clone drive to the new 8500. Boot. It should
    show it is Activated, after a couple reboots, and it should
    download a 500MB driver for the new video card at some point.
    It might take a reboot or two, before the video driver download
    starts. In Device Manager, you would note at some point, the
    Microsoft Basic Display is replaced by the proprietary driver update.

    Once you've waited long enough,

    [Admin]

    slmgr /dlv

    will display whether the W10 clone is still activated.

    For the movement of a Win7 disk, there would be
    the video card driver issue as well. But, it would be
    the user responsibility to load the driver when sitting
    in front of the new 8500. You would have
    to use the identifying information of the new 8500 video card,
    so that you have the latest driver in hand for loading
    the new driver. (Windows 7 does not go out and fetch the
    video driver automatically like Windows 10 does.) And if the Win7
    being moved is a Royalty OEM OS Win7 (Dell), then it should activate
    on its own. And it should then pass the same

    slmgr /dlv

    test.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Apr 21 09:08:25 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 6:15 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?

    Thanks
    Robert

    the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.

    The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10.

    If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.

    The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
    it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.

    The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
    order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
    the card you currently own.

         Paul


    Just to be clear,...  this is the computer your recommending,.. this is the one with Win 10 installed but I have to do the setup and install my A/V suite, Word, Excel Dell Imaging, SeaMonkey, etc. So there's no way a Win 7 Pro hd would run on this ?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCK3KWFPMC68P0MN1E&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZJlWHIavwrW1%2BV085MNCNKkZhgrVZO%
    2FfA0e50KzTTTm9jfepVjia8ANIRCFdkjiyNi44lGJ751S4hzvWJwRTF2oAIplnhlQiFZtONzp9oaoIXIJIFt2FwdJZoZkxizmusX41FAFclZ5m0PUAszg1JWu7Mlt%2B5Rr188Rmu9%2F9JVXSfI%2FuRN99zGSFhWr7eGPyABNV7dJ4vqjKa%2FBggAIWOc35Q1IH7ulNgjeVmjMY21hk0e7cVck18WjKjTKi6rHFoK3Enr%
    2FCa1o1yhdduf3yy9ayfVOcEFIgp0K6jM%2BAahVMKyFEEs6vsmCR8JH8%2FJR4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-yO4YHKZQ

    I'll ask him to remove the hard drive and video card and pack them
    separately and to pack the computer carefully.

    I ordered the GT730 video card.

    Robert


    I think your Win7 is originally the OS from Dell, and that's a Royalty OEM Windows
    which activates any time it runs on a Dell. It uses the Dell SLIC table from the
    BIOS, to detect it is on a Dell.

    This would allow you to move your Win7 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell.

    If you moved the Win10 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell, that OS
    is a Retail (downloaded) installation as far as I know. In the Free Upgrade >>> era, you could have installed Win10 over top, and the license key from the >>> Dell would be used to authorize the Dell for Win10. And that would be
    a way of ensuring, that later, if you moved the original Win10 drive from >>> the old Dell to the new Dell, it would even activate. But since we're outside
    the Free Upgrade era now, that's not going to work. It *might* work, *if* >>> the previous owner of the new Dell, happened to test install Win10 some years
    ago. Then, when your old Win10 drive moved over to the new Dell, it would >>> activate.

    It's a good thing this stuff is simple to understand :-)

    That's why for Enterprise, they have Licensing Experts, people
    who do nothing but answer questions of that nature, identify
    what combination of Snakes and Ladders gets you from A to B.

    I think the Dell in your

        https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426

    link, uses an SSD, so the hard drive is NAND flash based and quite
    resistant to shock and vibration. Only a heavy video card would need
    to be wrapped separately, if anything.

    OK, that video card isn't that heavy. But the max power is 60W,
    which is at the slot limit (the slot is 75W, but the engineers
    usually de-rate a bit and run the vid card design around 60W or so
    as a max). There does not seem to be a 2x3 connector on that card,
    that I can see.

    https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393

    The card has 1GB of VRAM, which means it couldn't be used for Ethereum.
    The previous owner would have played older games on it, if anything.

    At the bottom of the Techpowerup page, it says:

        Windows 7 / 8.1 / 10:
        Catalyst Software Suite 15.7.1 / 16.2.1 Beta

    which means there is a potential for drivers.

        Paul




    I believe your correct with Win7 Pro and we did create the Win 10 Pro
    from the free offer and the 22H2 CD's. So the Win 7 clones should work
    also correct? The Win 10 hd I took out of the 8500 should work then.

    OIC,. it depends if the other computer upgraded with the free Win 10 offerfor it to work.

    I bought the computer. So we'll see when it arrives,.. I'll switch it with the 780 and we can play with it. Maybe I should put my Win10 hd in it to start off? or should I finish setting up the existing hd that's in it?

    Robert


    If it sold with W10 or W11, then there is a good chance your
    transplanted Win10 drive would work. If it is transplanted
    from the existing 8500, then the drivers should match too.
    Only the video driver would be radically different.

    If I was doing that (conservative approach to avoid "damage"), my steps would be.

    1) Clone old 8500 W10 drive to a temp drive.
    2) Boot the temp drive. Go to Programs and Features and
    remove the existing video card driver. Now, it is
    prepared to run using the Microsoft Basic Display Adapter (VESA driver).
    That's the driver that runs on everything, suited to bring-up.
    3) Move the clone drive to the new 8500. Boot. It should
    show it is Activated, after a couple reboots, and it should
    download a 500MB driver for the new video card at some point.
    It might take a reboot or two, before the video driver download
    starts. In Device Manager, you would note at some point, the
    Microsoft Basic Display is replaced by the proprietary driver update.

    Once you've waited long enough,

    [Admin]

    slmgr /dlv

    will display whether the W10 clone is still activated.

    For the movement of a Win7 disk, there would be
    the video card driver issue as well. But, it would be
    the user responsibility to load the driver when sitting
    in front of the new 8500. You would have
    to use the identifying information of the new 8500 video card,
    so that you have the latest driver in hand for loading
    the new driver. (Windows 7 does not go out and fetch the
    video driver automatically like Windows 10 does.) And if the Win7
    being moved is a Royalty OEM OS Win7 (Dell), then it should activate
    on its own. And it should then pass the same

    slmgr /dlv

    test.

    Paul



    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500 2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert




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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Tue Apr 22 10:59:39 2025
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?

    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Apr 22 12:00:48 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?

    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".

    Paul



    I meant incompatible of course.

    Robert


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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Apr 22 11:59:20 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?

    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".

    Paul



    I'm having trouble wrapping my head around
    what were suppose to do. ,..

    I should put my Win10hd back in the 8500
    and create a clone using Macrium. Since the
    drive has data on it will Macrium ask if I want
    to erase it?

    Then I'm supposed to put the cloned Win 10 hd
    in the new 8500 and let it boot. Am I suppose to
    remove it at this point or do I leave it in? Then
    you said to go and delete the video card in Programs
    and Features and then boot(re-start?) the computer and it
    should 'see' the video card.

    What I don't understand is the Win10 hd is incapable
    with the video card in the new computer so how can
    I get into Programs and Features or anything,.. It doesn't
    seem that the monitor would work.

    I picked up another VT730 card for the new 8500.
    So both will have the same video cards.

    Robert




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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Apr 22 14:12:34 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?

    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".

    Paul


    I just realized that with the new video cards
    I'll have to reconfigure the 8500 Win7 and
    Win10 as well. Correct?

    Then I should create an mrimg for both.

    Hmmmmm so how do I do this? delete the
    present video card in Programs and Features
    then install the new GT730 video card and
    let it boot several times until it recognizes
    the card ?

    Then on the new 8500 remove the hd and
    replace it with the cloned Win10 hd and
    delete the video card in Programs and Features
    then replace it with the GT730 and reboot
    until it recognizes the new video card.

    Is that correct?

    Then do mrimgs for the new 8500.

    Robert



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Apr 22 21:44:59 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?

    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".

    Paul


    The 8500 arrived today. I haven't taken it out of the box yet
    but will send you pics asap..

    Tomorrow were planned to have a power outage from 9am till 2pm
    so I'm not looking forward to being in the dark for 5 hours.

    Robert




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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 23 15:07:16 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:56 AM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 6:15 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Sun, 4/20/2025 4:46 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    Can you suggest a good video card with fan for the 8500 ?

    Thanks
    Robert

    the GT710 and GT730, should have drivers for Win7 and Win10.

    The GT1030 may have one driver for Win7, and a number of drivers for Win10.

    If you go newer than that, there might not be a Win7 driver.

    The GT1030 is two slots wide (for no discernible good reason),
    it has no VGA connector, so it's not my idea choice of a card.

    The electrical power requirements are 29W, 49W, 29W, in the
    order presented above. I suppose the GT730 is closest to
    the card you currently own.

         Paul


    Just to be clear,...  this is the computer your recommending,.. this is the one with Win 10 installed but I have to do the setup and install my A/V suite, Word, Excel Dell Imaging, SeaMonkey, etc. So there's no way a Win 7 Pro hd would run on this ?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426?_skw=dell+8500+xps+computer-+3770K&itmmeta=01JS81R8XCK3KWFPMC68P0MN1E&hash=item551ac1183a:g:5dIAAOSwDJdn9s0g&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZJlWHIavwrW1%2BV085MNCNKkZhgrVZO%
    2FfA0e50KzTTTm9jfepVjia8ANIRCFdkjiyNi44lGJ751S4hzvWJwRTF2oAIplnhlQiFZtONzp9oaoIXIJIFt2FwdJZoZkxizmusX41FAFclZ5m0PUAszg1JWu7Mlt%2B5Rr188Rmu9%2F9JVXSfI%2FuRN99zGSFhWr7eGPyABNV7dJ4vqjKa%2FBggAIWOc35Q1IH7ulNgjeVmjMY21hk0e7cVck18WjKjTKi6rHFoK3Enr%
    2FCa1o1yhdduf3yy9ayfVOcEFIgp0K6jM%2BAahVMKyFEEs6vsmCR8JH8%2FJR4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-yO4YHKZQ

    I'll ask him to remove the hard drive and video card and pack them
    separately and to pack the computer carefully.

    I ordered the GT730 video card.

    Robert


    I think your Win7 is originally the OS from Dell, and that's a Royalty OEM Windows
    which activates any time it runs on a Dell. It uses the Dell SLIC table from the
    BIOS, to detect it is on a Dell.

    This would allow you to move your Win7 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell.

    If you moved the Win10 drive from the old Dell to the new Dell, that OS
    is a Retail (downloaded) installation as far as I know. In the Free Upgrade >>> era, you could have installed Win10 over top, and the license key from the >>> Dell would be used to authorize the Dell for Win10. And that would be
    a way of ensuring, that later, if you moved the original Win10 drive from >>> the old Dell to the new Dell, it would even activate. But since we're outside
    the Free Upgrade era now, that's not going to work. It *might* work, *if* >>> the previous owner of the new Dell, happened to test install Win10 some years
    ago. Then, when your old Win10 drive moved over to the new Dell, it would >>> activate.

    It's a good thing this stuff is simple to understand :-)

    That's why for Enterprise, they have Licensing Experts, people
    who do nothing but answer questions of that nature, identify
    what combination of Snakes and Ladders gets you from A to B.

    I think the Dell in your

        https://www.ebay.com/itm/365521082426

    link, uses an SSD, so the hard drive is NAND flash based and quite
    resistant to shock and vibration. Only a heavy video card would need
    to be wrapped separately, if anything.

    OK, that video card isn't that heavy. But the max power is 60W,
    which is at the slot limit (the slot is 75W, but the engineers
    usually de-rate a bit and run the vid card design around 60W or so
    as a max). There does not seem to be a 2x3 connector on that card,
    that I can see.

    https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393

    The card has 1GB of VRAM, which means it couldn't be used for Ethereum.
    The previous owner would have played older games on it, if anything.

    At the bottom of the Techpowerup page, it says:

        Windows 7 / 8.1 / 10:
        Catalyst Software Suite 15.7.1 / 16.2.1 Beta

    which means there is a potential for drivers.

        Paul




    I believe your correct with Win7 Pro and we did create the Win 10 Pro
    from the free offer and the 22H2 CD's. So the Win 7 clones should work
    also correct? The Win 10 hd I took out of the 8500 should work then.

    OIC,. it depends if the other computer upgraded with the free Win 10 offerfor it to work.

    I bought the computer. So we'll see when it arrives,.. I'll switch it with the 780 and we can play with it. Maybe I should put my Win10 hd in it to start off? or should I finish setting up the existing hd that's in it?

    Robert


    If it sold with W10 or W11, then there is a good chance your
    transplanted Win10 drive would work. If it is transplanted
    from the existing 8500, then the drivers should match too.
    Only the video driver would be radically different.

    If I was doing that (conservative approach to avoid "damage"), my steps would be.

    1) Clone old 8500 W10 drive to a temp drive.
    2) Boot the temp drive. Go to Programs and Features and
    remove the existing video card driver. Now, it is
    prepared to run using the Microsoft Basic Display Adapter (VESA driver).
    That's the driver that runs on everything, suited to bring-up.
    3) Move the clone drive to the new 8500. Boot. It should
    show it is Activated, after a couple reboots, and it should
    download a 500MB driver for the new video card at some point.
    It might take a reboot or two, before the video driver download
    starts. In Device Manager, you would note at some point, the
    Microsoft Basic Display is replaced by the proprietary driver update.

    Once you've waited long enough,

    [Admin]

    slmgr /dlv

    will display whether the W10 clone is still activated.

    For the movement of a Win7 disk, there would be
    the video card driver issue as well. But, it would be
    the user responsibility to load the driver when sitting
    in front of the new 8500. You would have
    to use the identifying information of the new 8500 video card,
    so that you have the latest driver in hand for loading
    the new driver. (Windows 7 does not go out and fetch the
    video driver automatically like Windows 10 does.) And if the Win7
    being moved is a Royalty OEM OS Win7 (Dell), then it should activate
    on its own. And it should then pass the same

    slmgr /dlv

    test.

    Paul



    We were supposed to have a planned outage from 9am till 2pm
    but my powered stayed on. In any case, I had disconnected the
    computers and my stereo, just in case. I hope they got the dates right,
    I don't want to be online tomorrow and have the power go out on me!

    I opened up the box with the 8500, they did a good job of packing
    it. I opened it up and took some pics for you.

    https://postimg.cc/TpV0bjQQ

    https://postimg.cc/Yvt3z4s7

    https://postimg.cc/qtRxWPrZ

    https://postimg.cc/d7xjF5tQ

    https://postimg.cc/gXLq23nV

    https://postimg.cc/T5rVrGjh

    https://postimg.cc/PPjzdphD

    https://postimg.cc/bs90ryNB

    Should I power it up as is to see if it at least boots? Then I can
    shut it back down without doing anything. One thing is clear, that
    flimsy hd needs to go. I had thought of finishing the Win10 setup
    on it but not after looking at it.

    Robert


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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu Apr 24 12:34:14 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?

    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".

    Paul


    I switched the 780 with the new 8500 to see if it
    would boot but unfortunately the video card
    connection they have is way too big and I don't
    have a adaptor. So I couldn't plug in the monitor
    so I plugged it into the only other source. The
    integrated video connector.

    https://postimg.cc/yWL9d5vy

    So we have to wait to install the GT730 video card
    before we can see anything,... but at least it works.

    Robert



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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri Apr 25 18:04:22 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?

    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".

    Paul




    I got the one of the GT730 video cards today and so
    I took out the DVI video card in the new 8500 and
    put in the GT730 although I had to cut the tabs at
    the bottom for it to fit in the two slots.

    It powered up rather noisy I thought probably due to
    the flimsy hd not even screwed down. It worked but
    all I got was this screen:

    https://postimg.cc/ZBBbGTVR

    The F-keys and mouse didn't seem to respond and there
    was a beeping sound at intervals then the screen went
    black and I couldn't get it back with my mouse. I had
    tried pressing the F12 and F2 keys but nothing happened?
    I got no pop-ups regarding the new video card and I kind
    of thought I would that the computer recognizes the new
    video card.

    Once we install a Win 7 or Win 10 hd with the same video
    card after we replace the video card in the present 8500 and
    create a cloned hard drive then they should work in the new
    8500, correct? and of course make mrimgs along the way.

    I was also thinking if we can get the 8500 up and running
    then I'll need to get another 6TB external hd for it and make
    it a simple drive like the others.

    Thoughts/suggestions,...
    Robert


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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Sat Apr 26 08:13:11 2025
    On Tue, 4/22/2025 2:59 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?

    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".

        Paul



    I'm having trouble wrapping my head around
    what were suppose to do. ,..

    I should put my Win10hd back in the 8500
    and create a clone using Macrium. Since the
    drive has data on it will Macrium ask if I want
    to erase it?

    Then I'm supposed to put the cloned Win 10 hd
    in the new 8500 and let it boot. Am I suppose to
    remove it at this point or do I leave it in? Then
    you said to go and delete the video card in Programs
    and Features and then boot(re-start?) the computer and it
    should 'see' the video card.

    What I don't understand is the Win10 hd is incapable
    with the video card in the new computer so how can
    I get into Programs and Features or anything,.. It doesn't
    seem that the monitor would work.

    I picked up another VT730 card for the new 8500.
    So both will have the same video cards.

    Robert

    The two 8500 machines are "almost equal".

    When the Win10 boots, it will install drivers for the
    differences between the machines. This would include a
    new video driver.

    When you clone a hard drive, this is for "safety". In case
    the move does not go well, the original drive is unharmed.

    When you clone a drive, all he original data is erased.
    It is erased in a second, by removing the partition table.
    While some of the files could be recovered with Photorec,
    not all of the files would be recoverable from the "old"
    information on the disk. Cloning a drive, does not do a
    thorough forensic cleaning.

    *******

    As a straw man, I will imagine an 8500 has entered the
    house right now. The Fedex truck just drove away. My
    refurbished 8500 is sitting on the porch.

    what do I do first ?

    1) Record the license key. That could be with ProduKey
    or Magical Jelly Bean. This would be the refurbisher key
    that comes with the Microsoft kit the refurbisher uses.

    https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/product_cd_key_viewer.html # Download at bottom. Note comments about "AV software interference".

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/magical_jelly_bean_keyfinder.html # Download links at top

    2) Make a backup image of the hard drive that is found inside the new 8500.
    This is only for future reference, if any aspect of the machine
    needs to be analyzed later. You can make the backup using your
    Macrium Rescue CD, version greater than 6.3.1865 . Plug in your
    USB external drive and make the backup. Switch off the USB drive after
    shutdown, and disconnect it from the machine.

    3) Now, You can clone your original Win10 disk, to the disk inside the
    new 8500. The original disk could have a data partition full of backups.
    You don't need to copy partitions that aren't relevant at the moment.
    You can select what partitions should be cloned.

    The cloning will erase the "new 8500" disk and put your image on it.

    4) Now, boot the "new 8500", with your cloned OS on it. After a couple
    reboots, and allowing time for the video driver to install, check
    "slmgr /dlv" and see if the license status is "Notification (not licensed)"
    or it is licensed.

    *******

    When the OS does not have a driver for a video card, what does it do ?

    1) It installs the Microsoft Basic Display driver. This is a VESA driver,
    where just the frame buffer has to work.

    2) It starts to download the proper driver, if available.
    It will switch to the proper driver, after the download finishes.

    However, for brand changes, I prefer to uninstall the original
    driver from Programs and Features control panel. There have been occasional problems, when three different brands of video driver are installed,
    and a couple of the drivers are no longer in use.

    control.exe then "Programs and Features" control panel

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Apr 26 09:14:42 2025
    On Tue, 4/22/2025 5:12 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?

    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".

        Paul


    I just realized that with the new video cards
    I'll have to reconfigure the 8500 Win7 and
    Win10 as well. Correct?

    Then I should create an mrimg for both.

    Hmmmmm so how do I do this? delete the
    present video card in Programs and Features
    then install the new GT730 video card and
    let it boot several times until it recognizes
    the card ?

    Then on the new 8500 remove the hd and
    replace it with the cloned Win10 hd and
    delete the video card in Programs and Features
    then replace it with the GT730 and reboot
    until it recognizes the new video card.

    Is that correct?

    Then do mrimgs for the new 8500.

    Robert

    There is no rush here. This isn't a forest fire.

    *******

    The purpose of trying the Win10 recipe I just posted,
    is mainly to ascertain the new machine works. We need
    to complete this step, before being more ambitious.

    *******

    The windows 7, it probably has the Microsoft Basic Display driver as well
    (the OS has this available to it).

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/76TTkx1q/Windows7-VESA-driver.gif

    From a license perspective, it should see the SLIC table of
    the XPS 8500, and it should activate using that value.
    In other words, there is no excuse for Windows 7 to crash,
    to offer 72 hour grace, or offer 30 day grace period. It
    should "just work". This is one aspect of the transition.
    That is the benefit, of using the Dell Win7 when moving
    from one 8500 to another 8500. Moving a System Builder Win7
    from one 8500 to another, would not work nearly as well. I
    don't think you realize what an advantage the Dell Win7 offers
    at the moment :-) That's more than half the reason, we can
    even dream about doing this :-) These transitions don't normally
    go at all well.

    You don't have a disk to clone this one, so that will
    be an issue you will have to address. But technically,
    all it needs is a video driver, after the clone is brought over.
    It should come up in 1024x768, while you search online for
    a driver. Or, have a driver on a USB stick, for it. It
    doesn't particularly have to be a big panic.

    https://www.amd.com/en/support/downloads/drivers.html/graphics/radeon-hd/radeon-hd-7000-series/amd-radeon-hd-7570.html

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat Apr 26 11:04:35 2025
    On Fri, 4/25/2025 9:04 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?

    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".

        Paul




    I got the one of the GT730 video cards today and so
    I took out the DVI video card in the new 8500 and
    put in the GT730 although I had to cut the tabs at
    the bottom for it to fit in the two slots.

    It powered up rather noisy I thought probably due to
    the flimsy hd not even screwed down. It worked but
    all I got was this screen:

    https://postimg.cc/ZBBbGTVR

    The F-keys and mouse didn't seem to respond and there
    was a beeping sound at intervals then the screen went
    black and I couldn't get it back with my mouse. I had
    tried pressing the F12 and F2 keys but nothing happened?
    I got no pop-ups regarding the new video card and I kind
    of thought I would that the computer recognizes the new
    video card.

    Once we install a Win 7 or Win 10 hd with the same video
    card after we replace the video card in the present 8500 and
    create a cloned hard drive then they should work in the new
    8500, correct? and of course make mrimgs along the way.

    I was also thinking if we can get the 8500 up and running
    then I'll need to get another 6TB external hd for it and make
    it a simple drive like the others.

    Thoughts/suggestions,...
    Robert



    https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393

    The HD 7570 is shown in the database, as a full height faceplate
    with three connectors. DVI would be one of them, VGA at the top,
    and a digital connector in the middle (could be HDMI).

    But there are entries for actual cards, showing
    different connector configurations are possible.

    Dell HD 7570 650 MHz 800 MHz 1x DVI 1x DisplayPort

    It's important, when entering info like that in a database, to
    either state "DVI-D" or "DVI-I". the first item is digital only no VGA,
    the second type, you can use a passive DVI to VGA adapter to get at
    the VGA signals. Generally, for VGA to work from the DVI, you will
    see the gleam of metal contacts in the cross-shaped portion of the
    DVI-I connector.

    We know that the Dell has some strange behaviors regarding what is
    plugged into the main slot. I think it only allows video cards.
    Whether it has attempted to boot and got that far, or it is stopping
    and not performing, I can't tell from here. I would think, if it
    wanted to complain about the replacement video card, it would do it
    earlier before putting up that particular screen.

    If you ever purchased a video card before, check the box and see
    if there is an adapter for DVI to VGA. But don't plug it in, unless
    you have verified the cross-shaped area on the DVI, and the gleam
    of metal in the cross, would be VGA is present and it is DVI-I. The
    DVI-I is the one that can use a passive adapter.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg

    The DisplayPort, if that's what it is, there are DisplayPort to VGA
    adapters, that use the +5V power on the DisplayPort to power the
    conversion chip.

    For adapters, I have

    1) DisplayPort to HDMI (active adapter, somewhat obscure)
    2) DisplayPort++ to VGA (active adapter, pretty common)
    3) HDMI to VGA (active adapter, pretty common)

    4) Passive DVI-I to VGA adapter (got a couple in video card boxes)

    The DisplayPort++ standard, a cheap passive adapter can convert
    that to HDMI. the "++" means that a second protocol hides in it.

    For the DisplayPort on the 780, that is not ++ flavored, and
    as a consequence, you need the active adapter to make HDMI.

    I could even connect (1) to (3) and go from DP to VGA that way.

    You could be charged $20 for some of these, or overcharged $100,
    so don't be in too much of a rush buying the very first one
    you find. The passive items could be on the order of $10.

    I would try to get the HD 7570 working, to prove that what
    the seller shipped "really works". Take a picture of the faceplate,
    so I can guess at what you've got there.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to All on Sat Apr 26 12:05:31 2025
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    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Apr 26 22:11:00 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Tue, 4/22/2025 2:59 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?

    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".

        Paul



    I'm having trouble wrapping my head around
    what were suppose to do. ,..

    I should put my Win10hd back in the 8500
    and create a clone using Macrium. Since the
    drive has data on it will Macrium ask if I want
    to erase it?

    Then I'm supposed to put the cloned Win 10 hd
    in the new 8500 and let it boot. Am I suppose to
    remove it at this point or do I leave it in? Then
    you said to go and delete the video card in Programs
    and Features and then boot(re-start?) the computer and it
    should 'see' the video card.

    What I don't understand is the Win10 hd is incapable
    with the video card in the new computer so how can
    I get into Programs and Features or anything,.. It doesn't
    seem that the monitor would work.

    I picked up another VT730 card for the new 8500.
    So both will have the same video cards.

    Robert

    The two 8500 machines are "almost equal".

    When the Win10 boots, it will install drivers for the
    differences between the machines. This would include a
    new video driver.

    When you clone a hard drive, this is for "safety". In case
    the move does not go well, the original drive is unharmed.

    When you clone a drive, all he original data is erased.
    It is erased in a second, by removing the partition table.
    While some of the files could be recovered with Photorec,
    not all of the files would be recoverable from the "old"
    information on the disk. Cloning a drive, does not do a
    thorough forensic cleaning.

    *******

    As a straw man, I will imagine an 8500 has entered the
    house right now. The Fedex truck just drove away. My
    refurbished 8500 is sitting on the porch.

    what do I do first ?

    1) Record the license key. That could be with ProduKey
    or Magical Jelly Bean. This would be the refurbisher key
    that comes with the Microsoft kit the refurbisher uses.

    https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/product_cd_key_viewer.html # Download at bottom. Note comments about "AV software interference".

    https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/magical_jelly_bean_keyfinder.html # Download links at top

    2) Make a backup image of the hard drive that is found inside the new 8500.
    This is only for future reference, if any aspect of the machine
    needs to be analyzed later. You can make the backup using your
    Macrium Rescue CD, version greater than 6.3.1865 . Plug in your
    USB external drive and make the backup. Switch off the USB drive after
    shutdown, and disconnect it from the machine.

    3) Now, You can clone your original Win10 disk, to the disk inside the
    new 8500. The original disk could have a data partition full of backups.
    You don't need to copy partitions that aren't relevant at the moment.
    You can select what partitions should be cloned.

    The cloning will erase the "new 8500" disk and put your image on it.

    4) Now, boot the "new 8500", with your cloned OS on it. After a couple
    reboots, and allowing time for the video driver to install, check
    "slmgr /dlv" and see if the license status is "Notification (not licensed)"
    or it is licensed.

    *******

    When the OS does not have a driver for a video card, what does it do ?

    1) It installs the Microsoft Basic Display driver. This is a VESA driver,
    where just the frame buffer has to work.

    2) It starts to download the proper driver, if available.
    It will switch to the proper driver, after the download finishes.

    However, for brand changes, I prefer to uninstall the original
    driver from Programs and Features control panel. There have been occasional problems, when three different brands of video driver are installed,
    and a couple of the drivers are no longer in use.

    control.exe then "Programs and Features" control panel

    Paul


    Ok I just read your post I missed and that clarifies things,..
    Thanks I think I get it now.

    I thought the video card was a plug n play type of thing
    and that the 8500 would search for the correct driver for
    it.

    OIC Win 7 enables us to do this while otherwise we couldn't.
    Just tell me what to do in steps and I'll follow your instructions.
    I guess the first is the adapter so we can see what we have on the
    new 8500.

    In passing,. the 8500 hung up again last night. I had too many
    tabs open I think. Anyway, I pressed the start button to power it
    off/on.

    It came back up with abnormal shutdown and I let it boot normally
    however when I brought up FF the pages would not load correctly
    and the home page, about:blank didn't work. I closed and opened
    FF several times but the same thing,.. I restarted the computer twice
    but still the same thing. I finally powered it off/on and that seemed to
    fix it.


    Robert



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    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun Apr 27 09:17:43 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/25/2025 9:04 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?

    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet".

        Paul




    I got the one of the GT730 video cards today and so
    I took out the DVI video card in the new 8500 and
    put in the GT730 although I had to cut the tabs at
    the bottom for it to fit in the two slots.

    It powered up rather noisy I thought probably due to
    the flimsy hd not even screwed down. It worked but
    all I got was this screen:

    https://postimg.cc/ZBBbGTVR

    The F-keys and mouse didn't seem to respond and there
    was a beeping sound at intervals then the screen went
    black and I couldn't get it back with my mouse. I had
    tried pressing the F12 and F2 keys but nothing happened?
    I got no pop-ups regarding the new video card and I kind
    of thought I would that the computer recognizes the new
    video card.

    Once we install a Win 7 or Win 10 hd with the same video
    card after we replace the video card in the present 8500 and
    create a cloned hard drive then they should work in the new
    8500, correct? and of course make mrimgs along the way.

    I was also thinking if we can get the 8500 up and running
    then I'll need to get another 6TB external hd for it and make
    it a simple drive like the others.

    Thoughts/suggestions,...
    Robert



    https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393

    The HD 7570 is shown in the database, as a full height faceplate
    with three connectors. DVI would be one of them, VGA at the top,
    and a digital connector in the middle (could be HDMI).

    But there are entries for actual cards, showing
    different connector configurations are possible.

    Dell HD 7570 650 MHz 800 MHz 1x DVI 1x DisplayPort

    It's important, when entering info like that in a database, to
    either state "DVI-D" or "DVI-I". the first item is digital only no VGA,
    the second type, you can use a passive DVI to VGA adapter to get at
    the VGA signals. Generally, for VGA to work from the DVI, you will
    see the gleam of metal contacts in the cross-shaped portion of the
    DVI-I connector.

    We know that the Dell has some strange behaviors regarding what is
    plugged into the main slot. I think it only allows video cards.
    Whether it has attempted to boot and got that far, or it is stopping
    and not performing, I can't tell from here. I would think, if it
    wanted to complain about the replacement video card, it would do it
    earlier before putting up that particular screen.

    If you ever purchased a video card before, check the box and see
    if there is an adapter for DVI to VGA. But don't plug it in, unless
    you have verified the cross-shaped area on the DVI, and the gleam
    of metal in the cross, would be VGA is present and it is DVI-I. The
    DVI-I is the one that can use a passive adapter.

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg

    The DisplayPort, if that's what it is, there are DisplayPort to VGA
    adapters, that use the +5V power on the DisplayPort to power the
    conversion chip.

    For adapters, I have

    1) DisplayPort to HDMI (active adapter, somewhat obscure)
    2) DisplayPort++ to VGA (active adapter, pretty common)
    3) HDMI to VGA (active adapter, pretty common)

    4) Passive DVI-I to VGA adapter (got a couple in video card boxes)

    The DisplayPort++ standard, a cheap passive adapter can convert
    that to HDMI. the "++" means that a second protocol hides in it.

    For the DisplayPort on the 780, that is not ++ flavored, and
    as a consequence, you need the active adapter to make HDMI.

    I could even connect (1) to (3) and go from DP to VGA that way.

    You could be charged $20 for some of these, or overcharged $100,
    so don't be in too much of a rush buying the very first one
    you find. The passive items could be on the order of $10.

    I would try to get the HD 7570 working, to prove that what
    the seller shipped "really works". Take a picture of the faceplate,
    so I can guess at what you've got there.

    Paul



    I ordered the adapter.

    Robert

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun Apr 27 15:44:33 2025
    On Sat, 4/26/2025 3:05 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/25/2025 9:04 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ?

    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet". >>>>
         Paul




    I got the one of the GT730 video cards today and so
    I took out the DVI video card in the new 8500 and
    put in the GT730 although I had to cut the tabs at
    the bottom for it to fit in the two slots.

    It powered up rather noisy I thought probably due to
    the flimsy hd not even screwed down. It worked but
    all I got was this screen:

    https://postimg.cc/ZBBbGTVR

    The F-keys and mouse didn't seem to respond and there
    was a beeping sound at intervals then the screen went
    black and I couldn't get it back with my mouse. I had
    tried pressing the F12 and F2 keys but nothing happened?
    I got no pop-ups regarding the new video card and I kind
    of thought I would that the computer recognizes the new
    video card.

    Once we install a Win 7 or Win 10 hd with the same video
    card after we replace the video card in the present 8500 and
    create a cloned hard drive then they should work in the new
    8500, correct? and of course make mrimgs along the way.

    I was also thinking if we can get the 8500 up and running
    then I'll need to get another 6TB external hd for it and make
    it a simple drive like the others.

    Thoughts/suggestions,...
    Robert



    https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393

    The HD 7570 is shown in the database, as a full height faceplate
    with three connectors. DVI would be one of them, VGA at the top,
    and a digital connector in the middle (could be HDMI).

    But there are entries for actual cards, showing
    different connector configurations are possible.

        Dell HD 7570        650 MHz      800 MHz      1x DVI 1x DisplayPort

    It's important, when entering info like that in a database, to
    either state "DVI-D" or "DVI-I". the first item is digital only no VGA,
    the second type, you can use a passive DVI to VGA adapter to get at
    the VGA signals. Generally, for VGA to work from the DVI, you will
    see the gleam of metal contacts in the cross-shaped portion of the
    DVI-I connector.

    We know that the Dell has some strange behaviors regarding what is
    plugged into the main slot. I think it only allows video cards.
    Whether it has attempted to boot and got that far, or it is stopping
    and not performing, I can't tell from here. I would think, if it
    wanted to complain about the replacement video card, it would do it
    earlier before putting up that particular screen.

    If you ever purchased a video card before, check the box and see
    if there is an adapter for DVI to VGA. But don't plug it in, unless
    you have verified the cross-shaped area on the DVI, and the gleam
    of metal in the cross, would be VGA is present and it is DVI-I. The
    DVI-I is the one that can use a passive adapter.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg

    The DisplayPort, if that's what it is, there are DisplayPort to VGA
    adapters, that use the +5V power on the DisplayPort to power the
    conversion chip.

    For adapters, I have

    1) DisplayPort to HDMI   (active adapter, somewhat obscure)
    2) DisplayPort++ to VGA  (active adapter, pretty common)
    3) HDMI to VGA           (active adapter, pretty common)

    4) Passive DVI-I to VGA adapter  (got a couple in video card boxes)

    The DisplayPort++ standard, a cheap passive adapter can convert
    that to HDMI. the "++" means that a second protocol hides in it.

    For the DisplayPort on the 780, that is not ++ flavored, and
    as a consequence, you need the active adapter to make HDMI.

    I could even connect (1) to (3) and go from DP to VGA that way.

    You could be charged $20 for some of these, or overcharged $100,
    so don't be in too much of a rush buying the very first one
    you find. The passive items could be on the order of $10.

    I would try to get the HD 7570 working, to prove that what
    the seller shipped "really works". Take a picture of the faceplate,
    so I can guess at what you've got there.

        Paul



    The video card came with no adaptors.

    So I need to put the old video card back in and buy a adaptor for
    the DVI port for VGA monitor?

    I found this :

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/395079513563


    What do you think?

    Here's a picture of the hard drive

    https://postimg.cc/z3cgDbkG

    Thanks,
    Robert

    First, you have to *compare* the connectors, to my picture,
    and tell me whether the DVI connector is DVI-D ("no cross")
    or is DVI-I (has the metal cross on one end == VGA). That's
    why I took pictures, and arranged the adaptable DVI-I one, to be
    right next to the adapter for the passive adaptation (no chip
    inside the two connectors). There has to be a hole for the cross,
    for the passive adapter with the cross on it, to plug in.

    https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg

    You cannot buy an adapter, if the male cross on the adapter,
    has no place to plug on the ("blocked off") cross section of a
    DVI-D. The adapter only works with a DVI-I connector.

    To adapt any other connector on the card, would take
    an "active " HDMI to VGA or an "active" DisplayPort to VGA.
    VGA resolution does not go all that high, and 2048x2048
    is about as big as it gets on VGA. It's not even close to 4K
    resolution on VGA. VGA might do 2048x2048, but usually less
    than that, and it works all the way down to 640x480 (what
    the computer used to use). I have "a slight preference" for
    the usage of HDMI to VGA adapters with NVidia cards, but the
    HD7570 is an AMD card.

    *******

    The Mushkin doesn't have a toolbox software and instead, we
    would use CrystalDiskInfo from the guy in Japan. It has
    a "Percent Good" in the upper left corner, which shows how much
    life is left in the SSD.

    https://sourceforge.net/projects/crystaldiskinfo/files/9.5.0/CrystalDiskInfo9_5_0.zip/download

    Name: CrystalDiskInfo9_5_0.zip
    Size: 7,754,380 bytes (7572 KiB)
    SHA256: 63490DEAF5F3E0BFD33E3C421A481858D9A7E11CC286A761AC63C61DFA03EE34

    You unpack the ZIP in your downloads folder, and then go into the folder
    and run the DiskInfo64.exe file. The percent good is in the upper left corner. That percentage is related to wear life. 100% is no wear. 0% means any
    writes at that point, could be corrupted. There is no guarantee of accurate storage, when it hits 0% remaining.

    Name: DiskInfo64.exe
    Size: 2,826,784 bytes (2760 KiB)
    SHA256: F2E3B31B83CC4BA2D787C2DE0BE42B0A5A3701DE0F4C78ABE56090EE377714CF

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to All on Sun Apr 27 17:02:18 2025
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    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Apr 28 14:57:53 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/26/2025 3:05 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/25/2025 9:04 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ? >>>>>
    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet". >>>>>
         Paul




    I got the one of the GT730 video cards today and so
    I took out the DVI video card in the new 8500 and
    put in the GT730 although I had to cut the tabs at
    the bottom for it to fit in the two slots.

    It powered up rather noisy I thought probably due to
    the flimsy hd not even screwed down. It worked but
    all I got was this screen:

    https://postimg.cc/ZBBbGTVR

    The F-keys and mouse didn't seem to respond and there
    was a beeping sound at intervals then the screen went
    black and I couldn't get it back with my mouse. I had
    tried pressing the F12 and F2 keys but nothing happened?
    I got no pop-ups regarding the new video card and I kind
    of thought I would that the computer recognizes the new
    video card.

    Once we install a Win 7 or Win 10 hd with the same video
    card after we replace the video card in the present 8500 and
    create a cloned hard drive then they should work in the new
    8500, correct? and of course make mrimgs along the way.

    I was also thinking if we can get the 8500 up and running
    then I'll need to get another 6TB external hd for it and make
    it a simple drive like the others.

    Thoughts/suggestions,...
    Robert



    https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393

    The HD 7570 is shown in the database, as a full height faceplate
    with three connectors. DVI would be one of them, VGA at the top,
    and a digital connector in the middle (could be HDMI).

    But there are entries for actual cards, showing
    different connector configurations are possible.

        Dell HD 7570        650 MHz      800 MHz      1x DVI 1x DisplayPort

    It's important, when entering info like that in a database, to
    either state "DVI-D" or "DVI-I". the first item is digital only no VGA,
    the second type, you can use a passive DVI to VGA adapter to get at
    the VGA signals. Generally, for VGA to work from the DVI, you will
    see the gleam of metal contacts in the cross-shaped portion of the
    DVI-I connector.

    We know that the Dell has some strange behaviors regarding what is
    plugged into the main slot. I think it only allows video cards.
    Whether it has attempted to boot and got that far, or it is stopping
    and not performing, I can't tell from here. I would think, if it
    wanted to complain about the replacement video card, it would do it
    earlier before putting up that particular screen.

    If you ever purchased a video card before, check the box and see
    if there is an adapter for DVI to VGA. But don't plug it in, unless
    you have verified the cross-shaped area on the DVI, and the gleam
    of metal in the cross, would be VGA is present and it is DVI-I. The
    DVI-I is the one that can use a passive adapter.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg

    The DisplayPort, if that's what it is, there are DisplayPort to VGA
    adapters, that use the +5V power on the DisplayPort to power the
    conversion chip.

    For adapters, I have

    1) DisplayPort to HDMI   (active adapter, somewhat obscure)
    2) DisplayPort++ to VGA  (active adapter, pretty common)
    3) HDMI to VGA           (active adapter, pretty common)

    4) Passive DVI-I to VGA adapter  (got a couple in video card boxes)

    The DisplayPort++ standard, a cheap passive adapter can convert
    that to HDMI. the "++" means that a second protocol hides in it.

    For the DisplayPort on the 780, that is not ++ flavored, and
    as a consequence, you need the active adapter to make HDMI.

    I could even connect (1) to (3) and go from DP to VGA that way.

    You could be charged $20 for some of these, or overcharged $100,
    so don't be in too much of a rush buying the very first one
    you find. The passive items could be on the order of $10.

    I would try to get the HD 7570 working, to prove that what
    the seller shipped "really works". Take a picture of the faceplate,
    so I can guess at what you've got there.

        Paul



    The video card came with no adaptors.

    So I need to put the old video card back in and buy a adaptor for
    the DVI port for VGA monitor?

    I found this :

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/395079513563


    What do you think?

    Here's a picture of the hard drive

    https://postimg.cc/z3cgDbkG

    Thanks,
    Robert

    First, you have to *compare* the connectors, to my picture,
    and tell me whether the DVI connector is DVI-D ("no cross")
    or is DVI-I (has the metal cross on one end == VGA). That's
    why I took pictures, and arranged the adaptable DVI-I one, to be
    right next to the adapter for the passive adaptation (no chip
    inside the two connectors). There has to be a hole for the cross,
    for the passive adapter with the cross on it, to plug in.

    https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg

    You cannot buy an adapter, if the male cross on the adapter,
    has no place to plug on the ("blocked off") cross section of a
    DVI-D. The adapter only works with a DVI-I connector.

    To adapt any other connector on the card, would take
    an "active " HDMI to VGA or an "active" DisplayPort to VGA.
    VGA resolution does not go all that high, and 2048x2048
    is about as big as it gets on VGA. It's not even close to 4K
    resolution on VGA. VGA might do 2048x2048, but usually less
    than that, and it works all the way down to 640x480 (what
    the computer used to use). I have "a slight preference" for
    the usage of HDMI to VGA adapters with NVidia cards, but the
    HD7570 is an AMD card.

    *******

    The Mushkin doesn't have a toolbox software and instead, we
    would use CrystalDiskInfo from the guy in Japan. It has
    a "Percent Good" in the upper left corner, which shows how much
    life is left in the SSD.

    https://sourceforge.net/projects/crystaldiskinfo/files/9.5.0/CrystalDiskInfo9_5_0.zip/download

    Name: CrystalDiskInfo9_5_0.zip
    Size: 7,754,380 bytes (7572 KiB)
    SHA256: 63490DEAF5F3E0BFD33E3C421A481858D9A7E11CC286A761AC63C61DFA03EE34

    You unpack the ZIP in your downloads folder, and then go into the folder
    and run the DiskInfo64.exe file. The percent good is in the upper left corner.
    That percentage is related to wear life. 100% is no wear. 0% means any
    writes at that point, could be corrupted. There is no guarantee of accurate storage, when it hits 0% remaining.

    Name: DiskInfo64.exe
    Size: 2,826,784 bytes (2760 KiB)
    SHA256: F2E3B31B83CC4BA2D787C2DE0BE42B0A5A3701DE0F4C78ABE56090EE377714CF

    Paul




    It happened again ! I was watching a show on
    YouTube and the 8500 started to hum pretty loud.
    So I pressed the start button to turn it off.

    I let it rest a bit before I powered it back up. I selected
    normal start up and everything came back OK.

    I hope I'm not loosing the 8500

    I put the old video DVI card back in the new 8500
    in preparation for the adapter when it arrives and
    then we'll see if it works or not.

    I also bought a couple of USB adapters because the
    one I have doesn't work on the right USB port only
    the left and sometimes it doesn't there either. I have
    two 3.0 ports in the back of the computer I could use
    and there's 2.0 ports as well but I hoping the new
    adapters will work.

    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Mon Apr 28 22:45:59 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/26/2025 3:05 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/25/2025 9:04 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ? >>>>>
    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet". >>>>>
         Paul




    I got the one of the GT730 video cards today and so
    I took out the DVI video card in the new 8500 and
    put in the GT730 although I had to cut the tabs at
    the bottom for it to fit in the two slots.

    It powered up rather noisy I thought probably due to
    the flimsy hd not even screwed down. It worked but
    all I got was this screen:

    https://postimg.cc/ZBBbGTVR

    The F-keys and mouse didn't seem to respond and there
    was a beeping sound at intervals then the screen went
    black and I couldn't get it back with my mouse. I had
    tried pressing the F12 and F2 keys but nothing happened?
    I got no pop-ups regarding the new video card and I kind
    of thought I would that the computer recognizes the new
    video card.

    Once we install a Win 7 or Win 10 hd with the same video
    card after we replace the video card in the present 8500 and
    create a cloned hard drive then they should work in the new
    8500, correct? and of course make mrimgs along the way.

    I was also thinking if we can get the 8500 up and running
    then I'll need to get another 6TB external hd for it and make
    it a simple drive like the others.

    Thoughts/suggestions,...
    Robert



    https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393

    The HD 7570 is shown in the database, as a full height faceplate
    with three connectors. DVI would be one of them, VGA at the top,
    and a digital connector in the middle (could be HDMI).

    But there are entries for actual cards, showing
    different connector configurations are possible.

        Dell HD 7570        650 MHz      800 MHz      1x DVI 1x DisplayPort

    It's important, when entering info like that in a database, to
    either state "DVI-D" or "DVI-I". the first item is digital only no VGA,
    the second type, you can use a passive DVI to VGA adapter to get at
    the VGA signals. Generally, for VGA to work from the DVI, you will
    see the gleam of metal contacts in the cross-shaped portion of the
    DVI-I connector.

    We know that the Dell has some strange behaviors regarding what is
    plugged into the main slot. I think it only allows video cards.
    Whether it has attempted to boot and got that far, or it is stopping
    and not performing, I can't tell from here. I would think, if it
    wanted to complain about the replacement video card, it would do it
    earlier before putting up that particular screen.

    If you ever purchased a video card before, check the box and see
    if there is an adapter for DVI to VGA. But don't plug it in, unless
    you have verified the cross-shaped area on the DVI, and the gleam
    of metal in the cross, would be VGA is present and it is DVI-I. The
    DVI-I is the one that can use a passive adapter.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg

    The DisplayPort, if that's what it is, there are DisplayPort to VGA
    adapters, that use the +5V power on the DisplayPort to power the
    conversion chip.

    For adapters, I have

    1) DisplayPort to HDMI   (active adapter, somewhat obscure)
    2) DisplayPort++ to VGA  (active adapter, pretty common)
    3) HDMI to VGA           (active adapter, pretty common)

    4) Passive DVI-I to VGA adapter  (got a couple in video card boxes)

    The DisplayPort++ standard, a cheap passive adapter can convert
    that to HDMI. the "++" means that a second protocol hides in it.

    For the DisplayPort on the 780, that is not ++ flavored, and
    as a consequence, you need the active adapter to make HDMI.

    I could even connect (1) to (3) and go from DP to VGA that way.

    You could be charged $20 for some of these, or overcharged $100,
    so don't be in too much of a rush buying the very first one
    you find. The passive items could be on the order of $10.

    I would try to get the HD 7570 working, to prove that what
    the seller shipped "really works". Take a picture of the faceplate,
    so I can guess at what you've got there.

        Paul



    The video card came with no adaptors.

    So I need to put the old video card back in and buy a adaptor for
    the DVI port for VGA monitor?

    I found this :

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/395079513563


    What do you think?

    Here's a picture of the hard drive

    https://postimg.cc/z3cgDbkG

    Thanks,
    Robert

    First, you have to *compare* the connectors, to my picture,
    and tell me whether the DVI connector is DVI-D ("no cross")
    or is DVI-I (has the metal cross on one end == VGA). That's
    why I took pictures, and arranged the adaptable DVI-I one, to be
    right next to the adapter for the passive adaptation (no chip
    inside the two connectors). There has to be a hole for the cross,
    for the passive adapter with the cross on it, to plug in.

    https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg

    You cannot buy an adapter, if the male cross on the adapter,
    has no place to plug on the ("blocked off") cross section of a
    DVI-D. The adapter only works with a DVI-I connector.

    To adapt any other connector on the card, would take
    an "active " HDMI to VGA or an "active" DisplayPort to VGA.
    VGA resolution does not go all that high, and 2048x2048
    is about as big as it gets on VGA. It's not even close to 4K
    resolution on VGA. VGA might do 2048x2048, but usually less
    than that, and it works all the way down to 640x480 (what
    the computer used to use). I have "a slight preference" for
    the usage of HDMI to VGA adapters with NVidia cards, but the
    HD7570 is an AMD card.

    *******

    The Mushkin doesn't have a toolbox software and instead, we
    would use CrystalDiskInfo from the guy in Japan. It has
    a "Percent Good" in the upper left corner, which shows how much
    life is left in the SSD.

    https://sourceforge.net/projects/crystaldiskinfo/files/9.5.0/CrystalDiskInfo9_5_0.zip/download

    Name: CrystalDiskInfo9_5_0.zip
    Size: 7,754,380 bytes (7572 KiB)
    SHA256: 63490DEAF5F3E0BFD33E3C421A481858D9A7E11CC286A761AC63C61DFA03EE34

    You unpack the ZIP in your downloads folder, and then go into the folder
    and run the DiskInfo64.exe file. The percent good is in the upper left corner.
    That percentage is related to wear life. 100% is no wear. 0% means any
    writes at that point, could be corrupted. There is no guarantee of accurate storage, when it hits 0% remaining.

    Name: DiskInfo64.exe
    Size: 2,826,784 bytes (2760 KiB)
    SHA256: F2E3B31B83CC4BA2D787C2DE0BE42B0A5A3701DE0F4C78ABE56090EE377714CF

    Paul





    After I came back up it took forever for FF to get back to normal
    e.g. about:blank wouldn't function or new tabs. I usually use Yahoo
    to see if it loads, then tried another tab/link but it wouldn't load and
    Yahoo disappeared and had a spinning icon in its place as if loading.

    I restarted FF many times but it did the same thing and had pop-up's
    each time to close FF which I did. I restarted it twice and it the same
    thing. I finally powered it off/on but even then when it came back up it
    did the same thing! Finally, something happened while I was trying to
    get it to work and all of a sudden about:blank worked again and I'm
    back to normal. Whew!


    Robert


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue Apr 29 22:17:08 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 4/26/2025 3:05 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 4/25/2025 9:04 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Mon, 4/21/2025 12:08 PM, RobnCA wrote:

    We'll do it as you suggest in steps... I have a spare
    external hd case and I'm pretty sure I have spare HD's.
    Although they are probably formatted with Win 7 or
    Win 10. I'll have to look and see what I have.

    I have a
    1TB Win 7 Pro hd
    Win 7 Pro hd I'm guessing 2TB,
    old 8500  2TB external hd
    old 780 2TB external hd and (2) spare 780 hd's I'm
    guessing they are 2TB.

    We could use the 2TB external hard drives for this. Since
    I don't use them anymore.

    Should I buy another GT730 for the new computer as well ?

    Thanks,
    Robert

    What do you think the chances are, of that video card being needed ? >>>>>
    For junker video cards, you're not going to get prices like that
    forever. There aren't too many $50 cards left, whether used
    or "new old stock" cards.

    I got a BFG card for $65, and that was "new old stock" from when
    BFG went out of business. And that was a nice catch. That card
    doesn't work under Linux today, but it still boots under Win10.
    If I had a year 2025 motherboard in the house (new this year),
    it would likely black screen because of the VBIOS style. The BIOS
    couldn't use it, and there might not be a chance for Win10 to boot.
    The cards gradually age out, with time, with respect to newer
    equipment. But that card would be fine for any member of your "fleet". >>>>>
         Paul




    I got the one of the GT730 video cards today and so
    I took out the DVI video card in the new 8500 and
    put in the GT730 although I had to cut the tabs at
    the bottom for it to fit in the two slots.

    It powered up rather noisy I thought probably due to
    the flimsy hd not even screwed down. It worked but
    all I got was this screen:

    https://postimg.cc/ZBBbGTVR

    The F-keys and mouse didn't seem to respond and there
    was a beeping sound at intervals then the screen went
    black and I couldn't get it back with my mouse. I had
    tried pressing the F12 and F2 keys but nothing happened?
    I got no pop-ups regarding the new video card and I kind
    of thought I would that the computer recognizes the new
    video card.

    Once we install a Win 7 or Win 10 hd with the same video
    card after we replace the video card in the present 8500 and
    create a cloned hard drive then they should work in the new
    8500, correct? and of course make mrimgs along the way.

    I was also thinking if we can get the 8500 up and running
    then I'll need to get another 6TB external hd for it and make
    it a simple drive like the others.

    Thoughts/suggestions,...
    Robert



    https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-hd-7570.c393

    The HD 7570 is shown in the database, as a full height faceplate
    with three connectors. DVI would be one of them, VGA at the top,
    and a digital connector in the middle (could be HDMI).

    But there are entries for actual cards, showing
    different connector configurations are possible.

        Dell HD 7570        650 MHz      800 MHz      1x DVI 1x DisplayPort

    It's important, when entering info like that in a database, to
    either state "DVI-D" or "DVI-I". the first item is digital only no VGA,
    the second type, you can use a passive DVI to VGA adapter to get at
    the VGA signals. Generally, for VGA to work from the DVI, you will
    see the gleam of metal contacts in the cross-shaped portion of the
    DVI-I connector.

    We know that the Dell has some strange behaviors regarding what is
    plugged into the main slot. I think it only allows video cards.
    Whether it has attempted to boot and got that far, or it is stopping
    and not performing, I can't tell from here. I would think, if it
    wanted to complain about the replacement video card, it would do it
    earlier before putting up that particular screen.

    If you ever purchased a video card before, check the box and see
    if there is an adapter for DVI to VGA. But don't plug it in, unless
    you have verified the cross-shaped area on the DVI, and the gleam
    of metal in the cross, would be VGA is present and it is DVI-I. The
    DVI-I is the one that can use a passive adapter.

         [Picture]

          https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg

    The DisplayPort, if that's what it is, there are DisplayPort to VGA
    adapters, that use the +5V power on the DisplayPort to power the
    conversion chip.

    For adapters, I have

    1) DisplayPort to HDMI   (active adapter, somewhat obscure)
    2) DisplayPort++ to VGA  (active adapter, pretty common)
    3) HDMI to VGA           (active adapter, pretty common)

    4) Passive DVI-I to VGA adapter  (got a couple in video card boxes)

    The DisplayPort++ standard, a cheap passive adapter can convert
    that to HDMI. the "++" means that a second protocol hides in it.

    For the DisplayPort on the 780, that is not ++ flavored, and
    as a consequence, you need the active adapter to make HDMI.

    I could even connect (1) to (3) and go from DP to VGA that way.

    You could be charged $20 for some of these, or overcharged $100,
    so don't be in too much of a rush buying the very first one
    you find. The passive items could be on the order of $10.

    I would try to get the HD 7570 working, to prove that what
    the seller shipped "really works". Take a picture of the faceplate,
    so I can guess at what you've got there.

        Paul



    The video card came with no adaptors.

    So I need to put the old video card back in and buy a adaptor for
    the DVI port for VGA monitor?

    I found this :

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/395079513563


    What do you think?

    Here's a picture of the hard drive

    https://postimg.cc/z3cgDbkG

    Thanks,
    Robert

    First, you have to *compare* the connectors, to my picture,
    and tell me whether the DVI connector is DVI-D ("no cross")
    or is DVI-I (has the metal cross on one end == VGA). That's
    why I took pictures, and arranged the adaptable DVI-I one, to be
    right next to the adapter for the passive adaptation (no chip
    inside the two connectors). There has to be a hole for the cross,
    for the passive adapter with the cross on it, to plug in.

    https://i.postimg.cc/26J3cggg/video-card-connectors.jpg

    You cannot buy an adapter, if the male cross on the adapter,
    has no place to plug on the ("blocked off") cross section of a
    DVI-D. The adapter only works with a DVI-I connector.

    To adapt any other connector on the card, would take
    an "active " HDMI to VGA or an "active" DisplayPort to VGA.
    VGA resolution does not go all that high, and 2048x2048
    is about as big as it gets on VGA. It's not even close to 4K
    resolution on VGA. VGA might do 2048x2048, but usually less
    than that, and it works all the way down to 640x480 (what
    the computer used to use). I have "a slight preference" for
    the usage of HDMI to VGA adapters with NVidia cards, but the
    HD7570 is an AMD card.

    *******

    The Mushkin doesn't have a toolbox software and instead, we
    would use CrystalDiskInfo from the guy in Japan. It has
    a "Percent Good" in the upper left corner, which shows how much
    life is left in the SSD.

    https://sourceforge.net/projects/crystaldiskinfo/files/9.5.0/CrystalDiskInfo9_5_0.zip/download

    Name: CrystalDiskInfo9_5_0.zip
    Size: 7,754,380 bytes (7572 KiB)
    SHA256: 63490DEAF5F3E0BFD33E3C421A481858D9A7E11CC286A761AC63C61DFA03EE34

    You unpack the ZIP in your downloads folder, and then go into the folder
    and run the DiskInfo64.exe file. The percent good is in the upper left corner.
    That percentage is related to wear life. 100% is no wear. 0% means any
    writes at that point, could be corrupted. There is no guarantee of accurate storage, when it hits 0% remaining.

    Name: DiskInfo64.exe
    Size: 2,826,784 bytes (2760 KiB)
    SHA256: F2E3B31B83CC4BA2D787C2DE0BE42B0A5A3701DE0F4C78ABE56090EE377714CF

    Paul




    The other GT730 came today but this one had all
    the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
    driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.

    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Wed Apr 30 12:36:38 2025
    On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    The other GT730 came today but this one had all
    the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
    driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.

    Robert

    When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector.

    Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
    to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
    off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
    is the "not-compatible" case.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to All on Wed Apr 30 12:30:20 2025
    UGF1bCB3cm90ZToNCj4gT24gV2VkLCA0LzMwLzIwMjUgMToxNyBBTSwgUm9ibkNBIHdyb3RlOg0K PiANCj4+DQo+PiBUaGUgb3RoZXIgR1Q3MzAgY2FtZSB0b2RheSBidXQgdGhpcyBvbmUgaGFkIGFs bA0KPj4gdGhlIHBhcGVyIHdvcmsgYW5kIGEgbWFudWFsIGFuZCBDRCB0byBsb2FkIHRoZQ0KPj4g ZHJpdmVyLiBTbyB3ZSBoYXZlIGEgZHJpdmVyIGZvciBib3RoIHZpZGVvIGNhcmRzLg0KPj4NCj4+ IFJvYmVydA0KPiANCj4gV2hlbiB0aGUgRFZJIHRvIFZHQSBhZGFwdGVyIGFycml2ZXMsIGRvIG5v dCBmb3JjZSBpdCBpbnRvIHRoZSBjb25uZWN0b3IuDQo+IA0KPiBMb29rIGNhcmVmdWxseSBhdCB0 aGUgdHdvIG1hdGluZyBwb3J0aW9ucywgd2hlcmUgaXQgaXMgYWJvdXQNCj4gdG8gcGx1ZyBpbiwg YW5kIG1ha2Ugc3VyZSB5b3UgZG9uJ3QgYnJlYWsgdGhlIG1ldGFsIGNyb3NzDQo+IG9mZiBieSBw dXNoaW5nIHRvbyBoYXJkIG9uIGl0LiBJZiBpdCBkb2VzIG5vdCBmaXQsIGl0DQo+IGlzIHRoZSAi bm90LWNvbXBhdGlibGUiIGNhc2UuDQo+IA0KPiAgICAgUGF1bA0KPiANCg0KSSBjaGVja2VkIGFu ZCBJIGJvdWdodCB0aGUgRFZJLUkgZHVhbCBsaW5rDQphbmQgdGhhdCdzIHdoYXQgdGhlIG5ldyA4 NTAwIGhhcywgc28gaXQgc2hvdWxkDQp3b3JrLg0KDQpodHRwczovL3d3dy5lYmF5LmNvbS9pdG0v Mzk1MDc5NTEzNTYzP190cmtwYXJtcz1hbWNsa3NyYyUzRElUTSUyNmFpZCUzRDExMTAwMDYlMjZh bGdvJTNESE9NRVNQTElDRS5TSU0lMjZhbyUzRDElMjZhc2MlM0QyMDIwMTIxMDExMTQ1MSUyNm1l aWQlM0QwMWFiNGY3YmQxZjU0NGEwODM1MjYxY2E3N2YzMGZhZSUyNnBpZCUzRDEwMTE5NiUyNnJr JTNENSUyNnJrdCUzRDExJTI2c2QlM0QyNzUzNzYwMzU5NTAlMjZpdG0lM0QzOTUwNzk1MTM1NjMl MjZwbXQlM0QxJTI2bm9hJTNEMCUyNnBnJTNEMjMzMjQ5MCUyNmFsZ3YlM0RTaW1wbEFNTHY1UGFp cndpc2VXZWJXaXRoQkJFVjJiQW5kVUJTb3VyY2VEZW1vdGlvbldpdGhVbHRpbWF0ZWx5Qm91Z2h0 T2ZDb3ZpZXdWMSZfdHJrc2lkPXAyMzMyNDkwLmMxMDExOTYubTIyMTkmaXRtcHJwPWNrc3VtJTNB Mzk1MDc5NTEzNTYzMDFhYjRmN2JkMWY1NDRhMDgzNTI2MWNhNzdmMzBmYWUlN0NlbmMlM0FBUUFL QUFBQk1LZiUyNTJCWkR5bndJQnpQRk9VWHpzWWZsNlYwMEFLUSUyNTJCJTI1MkI3UCUyNTJCUXJV ZSUyNTJGYU5jQSUyNTJGNmc1JTI1MkJLSkRDVzgweWwzc0R5aU90RGMlMjUyQndwMzgydWREdm5Z eEY3WkRTallxSm01R3lPVWttNzVNZWdSdmRNY1pPcDY2JTI1MkZ5RHVkQ0FOUmxXQW9ERERYOVZ3 ajF6Vm1UbG1qMDB1UEZxRTJvaGlhJTI1MkZhbWRJOGp0Rmk4ZFN2OXRkQ1VTc1BFMGRQSGJmbWVO OFVYSUtmR3NIJTI1MkZGelRvUUhzd01GbnB4UDhBWkNUTjVxS0VNWTRTRGRlZEQ0Z0NPMldUNGpo YWNQeUVuNkthZXFYS3V1NjB3UmwlMjUyRjQ2Y3NTOU5UVTlsTjZqaWZWODU1NzJBN1kzcnJDM3dj RlBDM3ZPWVpwaU1hOXpBUWdVUTEyVGs0MFRMYjRneVBnUVd2RTZsS0ZWTEhkJTI1MkZiRXhyamI1 a1lNNmp4JTI1MkJsSGtJJTI1MkZCNWxUenhOeWp6ZlRrbmNTbTVnVFhvZkN5OG1pNmxONkx2WTFW SkFQUlRMQ2ZZTHY1aEFvJTI1M0QlN0NhbXBpZCUzQVBMX0NMSyU3Q2NscCUzQTIzMzI0OTAmZXBp ZD0xNDA2NDk4NDU3MyZpdG1tZXRhPTAxSlNTUUNDOUpGN1lLSkFDSkM3M1M0SlBTDQoNClJvYmVy dA0KDQoNCi0tIA0KVGhpcyBlbWFpbCBoYXMgYmVlbiBjaGVja2VkIGZvciB2aXJ1c2VzIGJ5IEF2 YXN0IGFudGl2aXJ1cyBzb2Z0d2FyZS4NCnd3dy5hdmFzdC5jb20=

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Apr 30 12:16:36 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    The other GT730 came today but this one had all
    the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
    driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.

    Robert

    When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector.

    Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
    to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
    off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
    is the "not-compatible" case.

    Paul



    Well I hope it does fit,.. it said it was a DVI adapter when
    I bought it and I looked carefully at your link and the adapter
    to make sure I got the right one. Let's hope it fits.

    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Thu May 8 14:29:03 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    The other GT730 came today but this one had all
    the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
    driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.

    Robert

    When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector.

    Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
    to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
    off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
    is the "not-compatible" case.

    Paul




    The adapter was supposed to have arrived on Monday and I've
    waited all week and it still isn't here. I notified the seller and
    they said its on it way but I'm tired of waiting. I just ordered
    another.

    I also checked into external hard drives for the new 8500
    they don't offer a 6TB anymore, only 4TB and 8TB so I would
    have to get the 8TB but for now I'll use the old 2TB WD external.

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st2000dm001-2tb/p/N82E16822148834#

    Robert

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Thu May 8 14:30:46 2025
    RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    The other GT730 came today but this one had all
    the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
    driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.

    Robert

    When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector.

    Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
    to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
    off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
    is the "not-compatible" case.

        Paul




    The adapter was supposed to have arrived on Monday and I've
    waited all week and it still isn't here. I notified the seller and
    they said its on it way but I'm tired of waiting.  I just ordered
    another.

    I also checked into external hard drives for the new 8500
    they don't offer a 6TB anymore, only 4TB and 8TB so I would
    have to get the 8TB but for now I'll use the old 2TB WD external.

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st2000dm001-2tb/p/N82E16822148834#


    Robert


    In passing, I was apparently using a trial base
    premium malewarebytes because I got a message
    saying my coverage was ending. When it ended I
    selected the free option and my score went from 90
    to 72 instantly. So I wonder how much is just marketing

    Robert

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Robert in CA on Fri May 9 07:12:31 2025
    On Thu, 5/8/2025 5:30 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    The other GT730 came today but this one had all
    the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
    driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.

    Robert

    When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector. >>>
    Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
    to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
    off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
    is the "not-compatible" case.

        Paul




    The adapter was supposed to have arrived on Monday and I've
    waited all week and it still isn't here. I notified the seller and
    they said its on it way but I'm tired of waiting.  I just ordered
    another.

    I also checked into external hard drives for the new 8500
    they don't offer a 6TB anymore, only 4TB and 8TB so I would
    have to get the 8TB but for now I'll use the old 2TB WD external.

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st2000dm001-2tb/p/N82E16822148834#

    Robert


    In passing, I was apparently using a trial base
    premium malewarebytes because I got a message
    saying my coverage was ending. When it ended I
    selected the free option and my score went from 90
    to 72 instantly. So I wonder how much is just marketing

    Robert


    On your AV, that sounds like marketing to me :-)

    *******

    As for the hard drive selection, even the Newegg selection
    is looking pretty thin, on actual quality drives. The idea
    is not to buy shingled (SMR) drives, because the write speed
    is a fraction of the read speed. If the read was at 100,
    the write would be at 66. Whereas PMR (CMR), which
    stands for Perpendicular Magnetic Storage its real name,
    or Conventional Magnetic storage to try to confuse people,
    if that type reads at 100, it writes at 100 as well.
    PMR (CMR) is the "no-tricks" drive type.

    WD Red Pro 6TB (holes in wrong place) WD6005FFBX $210

    https://www.newegg.com/red-pro-wd6005ffbx-6tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822234561

    WD Black 6TB (holes OK for tray mount) WD6004FZBX $170

    https://www.newegg.com/black-wd6004fzbx-6tb/p/N82E16822234559

    Seagate BarraCuda NE-ST8000DM004 8TB 5400 RPM 256MB Cache $110 SMR [datasheet] (unsteady write rate)

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-barracuda-ne-st8000dm004-8tb-hard-drive-for-daily-computing-5400-rpm/p/N82E16822183793

    Seagate IronWolf Pro ST8000NT001 8TB 7200 RPM 256MB Cache $220 CMR (hole location hard to verify, is likely OK, a bit warm)

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-ironwolf-pro-st8000nt001-8tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822185077

    The Seagate for $110, would still work for backups. It would
    not make a particularly good boot drive.

    There's just no way to predict which one of these things will thump.
    The 18TB helium drive thumps. A 4TB Seagate thumps. The 6TB Black was reasonably quiet. The thump may be part of self test. but it is
    annoying when you're doing a backup, the write should be sequential
    and quiet, and there is a thump once a second. I've had drives that
    did it and drives that did not do it, and it is hard to detect
    a "theme" suitable for predicting model noise level on an unknown
    drive model.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Fri May 9 15:50:08 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 5/8/2025 5:30 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    The other GT730 came today but this one had all
    the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
    driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.

    Robert

    When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector. >>>>
    Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
    to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
    off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
    is the "not-compatible" case.

        Paul




    The adapter was supposed to have arrived on Monday and I've
    waited all week and it still isn't here. I notified the seller and
    they said its on it way but I'm tired of waiting.  I just ordered
    another.

    I also checked into external hard drives for the new 8500
    they don't offer a 6TB anymore, only 4TB and 8TB so I would
    have to get the 8TB but for now I'll use the old 2TB WD external.

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st2000dm001-2tb/p/N82E16822148834#

    Robert


    In passing, I was apparently using a trial base
    premium malewarebytes because I got a message
    saying my coverage was ending. When it ended I
    selected the free option and my score went from 90
    to 72 instantly. So I wonder how much is just marketing

    Robert


    On your AV, that sounds like marketing to me :-)

    *******

    As for the hard drive selection, even the Newegg selection
    is looking pretty thin, on actual quality drives. The idea
    is not to buy shingled (SMR) drives, because the write speed
    is a fraction of the read speed. If the read was at 100,
    the write would be at 66. Whereas PMR (CMR), which
    stands for Perpendicular Magnetic Storage its real name,
    or Conventional Magnetic storage to try to confuse people,
    if that type reads at 100, it writes at 100 as well.
    PMR (CMR) is the "no-tricks" drive type.

    WD Red Pro 6TB (holes in wrong place) WD6005FFBX $210

    https://www.newegg.com/red-pro-wd6005ffbx-6tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822234561

    WD Black 6TB (holes OK for tray mount) WD6004FZBX $170

    https://www.newegg.com/black-wd6004fzbx-6tb/p/N82E16822234559

    Seagate BarraCuda NE-ST8000DM004 8TB 5400 RPM 256MB Cache $110 SMR [datasheet] (unsteady write rate)

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-barracuda-ne-st8000dm004-8tb-hard-drive-for-daily-computing-5400-rpm/p/N82E16822183793

    Seagate IronWolf Pro ST8000NT001 8TB 7200 RPM 256MB Cache $220 CMR (hole location hard to verify, is likely OK, a bit warm)

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-ironwolf-pro-st8000nt001-8tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822185077

    The Seagate for $110, would still work for backups. It would
    not make a particularly good boot drive.

    There's just no way to predict which one of these things will thump.
    The 18TB helium drive thumps. A 4TB Seagate thumps. The 6TB Black was reasonably quiet. The thump may be part of self test. but it is
    annoying when you're doing a backup, the write should be sequential
    and quiet, and there is a thump once a second. I've had drives that
    did it and drives that did not do it, and it is hard to detect
    a "theme" suitable for predicting model noise level on an unknown
    drive model.

    Paul


    Yeah I thought it strange the A/V going from 90 to 72 instantly...

    I think the Seagate Barracuda sounds like a good choice for the
    external hd for the new 8500. I've used all Seagate drives throughout
    because they are all quiet and reliable.

    Can I still use the same external case?

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-nst-387s3-bk-enclosure/p/N82E16817392118

    In passing, I checked the WD external hd but I when I clicked
    restore there was no browse option. It was below and to the left,..
    so I clicked it and changed the drive letter to Z but I couldn't
    remember how to dismount it. So I restarted the computer
    and now it's a X? Did I screw it up?

    https://postimg.cc/Xr025zz8

    https://postimg.cc/4n9b11tF

    https://postimg.cc/D4kGNtsp

    Robert




    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Fri May 9 22:52:29 2025
    On Fri, 5/9/2025 6:50 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 5/8/2025 5:30 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    The other GT730 came today but this one had all
    the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
    driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.

    Robert

    When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector. >>>>>
    Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
    to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
    off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
    is the "not-compatible" case.

         Paul




    The adapter was supposed to have arrived on Monday and I've
    waited all week and it still isn't here. I notified the seller and
    they said its on it way but I'm tired of waiting.  I just ordered
    another.

    I also checked into external hard drives for the new 8500
    they don't offer a 6TB anymore, only 4TB and 8TB so I would
    have to get the 8TB but for now I'll use the old 2TB WD external.

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st2000dm001-2tb/p/N82E16822148834#

    Robert


    In passing, I was apparently using a trial base
    premium malewarebytes because I got a message
    saying my coverage was ending. When it ended I
    selected the free option and my score went from 90
    to 72 instantly. So I wonder how much is just marketing

    Robert


    On your AV, that sounds like marketing to me :-)

    *******

    As for the hard drive selection, even the Newegg selection
    is looking pretty thin, on actual quality drives. The idea
    is not to buy shingled (SMR) drives, because the write speed
    is a fraction of the read speed. If the read was at 100,
    the write would be at 66. Whereas PMR (CMR), which
    stands for Perpendicular Magnetic Storage its real name,
    or Conventional Magnetic storage to try to confuse people,
    if that type reads at 100, it writes at 100 as well.
    PMR (CMR) is the "no-tricks" drive type.

    WD Red Pro 6TB (holes in wrong place) WD6005FFBX  $210

    https://www.newegg.com/red-pro-wd6005ffbx-6tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822234561

    WD Black 6TB (holes OK for tray mount) WD6004FZBX  $170

    https://www.newegg.com/black-wd6004fzbx-6tb/p/N82E16822234559

    Seagate BarraCuda NE-ST8000DM004 8TB 5400 RPM 256MB Cache  $110    SMR [datasheet] (unsteady write rate)

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-barracuda-ne-st8000dm004-8tb-hard-drive-for-daily-computing-5400-rpm/p/N82E16822183793

    Seagate IronWolf Pro ST8000NT001 8TB 7200 RPM 256MB Cache  $220   CMR  (hole location hard to verify, is likely OK, a bit warm)

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-ironwolf-pro-st8000nt001-8tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822185077

    The Seagate for $110, would still work for backups. It would
    not make a particularly good boot drive.

    There's just no way to predict which one of these things will thump.
    The 18TB helium drive thumps. A 4TB Seagate thumps. The 6TB Black was
    reasonably quiet. The thump may be part of self test. but it is
    annoying when you're doing a backup, the write should be sequential
    and quiet, and there is a thump once a second. I've had drives that
    did it and drives that did not do it, and it is hard to detect
    a "theme" suitable for predicting model noise level on an unknown
    drive model.

        Paul


    Yeah I thought it strange the A/V going from 90 to 72 instantly...

    I think the Seagate Barracuda sounds like a good choice for the
    external hd for the new 8500. I've used all Seagate drives throughout
    because they are all quiet and reliable.

    Can I still use the same external case?

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-nst-387s3-bk-enclosure/p/N82E16817392118

    In passing, I checked the WD external hd but I when I clicked
    restore there was no browse option. It was below and to the left,..
    so I clicked it and changed the drive letter to Z but I couldn't
    remember how to dismount it. So I restarted the computer
    and now it's a X?  Did I screw it up?

    https://postimg.cc/Xr025zz8

    https://postimg.cc/4n9b11tF

    https://postimg.cc/D4kGNtsp

    Robert

    It looks like two drives with some identical identifiers ?

    That's part of the Macrium CD environment, not having good
    visual feedback on things. I can't get a really good
    feeling about what is going on there.

    When the Macrium CD boots, the CD operating system uses the
    drive X: and that is actually a RAMDisk. It uses memory to
    store the WIM file that is on the CD. This allows the CD to be
    ejected from the tray, while the backup session is running.

    When your regular OS is booted, that would be C: , and the high
    letters like X: and Z: would be available for other things.

    Things like that tend to happen, if you have been using "dd" Disk Dump
    to duplicate a disk drive. That makes identical identifiers on two
    drives. Whereas when Macrium does a lot of its work, it changes the
    identifiers to prevent duplicate-disk accidents.

    In the options section of Macrium (using the bottom left button to get
    there), there is a tick box to do a sector-by-sector operation, and
    that's one way of getting identical identifiers. You would not
    normally do that, for day to day computer usage. That activity is
    reserved for data recovery on a technician computer.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sat May 10 06:58:38 2025
    On Fri, 5/9/2025 6:50 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 5/8/2025 5:30 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    The other GT730 came today but this one had all
    the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
    driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.

    Robert

    When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector. >>>>>
    Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
    to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
    off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
    is the "not-compatible" case.

         Paul




    The adapter was supposed to have arrived on Monday and I've
    waited all week and it still isn't here. I notified the seller and
    they said its on it way but I'm tired of waiting.  I just ordered
    another.

    I also checked into external hard drives for the new 8500
    they don't offer a 6TB anymore, only 4TB and 8TB so I would
    have to get the 8TB but for now I'll use the old 2TB WD external.

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st2000dm001-2tb/p/N82E16822148834#

    Robert


    In passing, I was apparently using a trial base
    premium malewarebytes because I got a message
    saying my coverage was ending. When it ended I
    selected the free option and my score went from 90
    to 72 instantly. So I wonder how much is just marketing

    Robert


    On your AV, that sounds like marketing to me :-)

    *******

    As for the hard drive selection, even the Newegg selection
    is looking pretty thin, on actual quality drives. The idea
    is not to buy shingled (SMR) drives, because the write speed
    is a fraction of the read speed. If the read was at 100,
    the write would be at 66. Whereas PMR (CMR), which
    stands for Perpendicular Magnetic Storage its real name,
    or Conventional Magnetic storage to try to confuse people,
    if that type reads at 100, it writes at 100 as well.
    PMR (CMR) is the "no-tricks" drive type.

    WD Red Pro 6TB (holes in wrong place) WD6005FFBX  $210

    https://www.newegg.com/red-pro-wd6005ffbx-6tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822234561

    WD Black 6TB (holes OK for tray mount) WD6004FZBX  $170

    https://www.newegg.com/black-wd6004fzbx-6tb/p/N82E16822234559

    Seagate BarraCuda NE-ST8000DM004 8TB 5400 RPM 256MB Cache  $110    SMR [datasheet] (unsteady write rate)

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-barracuda-ne-st8000dm004-8tb-hard-drive-for-daily-computing-5400-rpm/p/N82E16822183793

    Seagate IronWolf Pro ST8000NT001 8TB 7200 RPM 256MB Cache  $220   CMR  (hole location hard to verify, is likely OK, a bit warm)

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-ironwolf-pro-st8000nt001-8tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822185077

    The Seagate for $110, would still work for backups. It would
    not make a particularly good boot drive.

    There's just no way to predict which one of these things will thump.
    The 18TB helium drive thumps. A 4TB Seagate thumps. The 6TB Black was
    reasonably quiet. The thump may be part of self test. but it is
    annoying when you're doing a backup, the write should be sequential
    and quiet, and there is a thump once a second. I've had drives that
    did it and drives that did not do it, and it is hard to detect
    a "theme" suitable for predicting model noise level on an unknown
    drive model.

        Paul


    Yeah I thought it strange the A/V going from 90 to 72 instantly...

    I think the Seagate Barracuda sounds like a good choice for the
    external hd for the new 8500. I've used all Seagate drives throughout
    because they are all quiet and reliable.

    Can I still use the same external case?

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-nst-387s3-bk-enclosure/p/N82E16817392118

    In passing, I checked the WD external hd but I when I clicked
    restore there was no browse option. It was below and to the left,..
    so I clicked it and changed the drive letter to Z but I couldn't
    remember how to dismount it. So I restarted the computer
    and now it's a X?  Did I screw it up?

    https://postimg.cc/Xr025zz8

    https://postimg.cc/4n9b11tF

    https://postimg.cc/D4kGNtsp

    Robert

    Sorry, I was a bit distracted yesterday. Was running around a bit.

    This is info on your enclosure.

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-nst-387s3-bk-enclosure/p/N82E16817392118

    "HDD Capacity: Up to 16TB" <=== that means they've tested with that large of a drive

    *******

    Drive letter assignments made while in the Macrium Rescue environment,
    are not persistent. And X: happens to be the Macrium Rescue CD OS partition, for as long as the CD is booted, so the machine is unlikely to "donate X"
    to you, while the CD is booted.

    Drive letters are stored in the running OS registry. They are not even
    stored on the individual partition headers.

    mountvol

    Possible values for VolumeName along with current mount points are:

    \\?\Volume{0bd6166a-0836-4041-891c-792df2c72abd}\
    C:\ <=== Win11 OS

    \\?\Volume{c3bc5ab1-c5f0-4dae-838c-751ef868e237}\ <=== Hidden recovery partition
    *** NO MOUNT POINTS ***

    \\?\Volume{bd4d69bc-6fbb-4f12-b804-f32c6b9e828c}\ <=== Win10 OS
    H:\

    \\?\Volume{af386bcf-16c0-483f-a84b-b310cc27c8e8}\ <=== Hidden recovery partition
    *** NO MOUNT POINTS ***

    \\?\Volume{4f8397da-61df-4a97-b913-9bd526c13c9a}\ <=== Data partition "SHARED", never defragmented, on SSD
    S:\

    \\?\Volume{8d5a14be-87fc-459b-afb1-8959cb4d727a}\ <=== ??? not sure where this is coming from...
    *** NO MOUNT POINTS ***

    The individual partition header lists the file system type, but the
    volume name is stored in the $MFT (master file table) or so,
    in the $VOLUME entry. I found an article the other day,
    that claimed the NTFS volume name could be roughly dead reckoned
    just from initial address assigned for the master file table
    (it's about 3GB down, but only on "huge" NTFS partitions).
    And the guy was right. I scrolled down that far, and there it was.
    The name of my data partition. But this does not imply that
    finding the partition name in an emergency situation, would
    be that easy. You would have to do a couple steps to work out
    where it was on, say, a hard drive that had been defragmented.
    I thought it humorous though, that his guess was spot on,
    for where the $MFT would be (assuming it never got moved of course).

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/L4JvkGnx/Finding-VOLUME-name-like-lottery-win.gif

    This scheme has just too many of those stupid numbers...
    They could have taken lessons from Apple, on a few things.
    It's not the complexity that matters, it's that ordinary
    users have to "bob for apples" in this stuff, to get their
    data back. I have a case in another group, of a guy whose
    external disk had gone ka-flooy, and haven't heard back
    what a scan shows for the contents yet. I'm sure his data
    is all there, it's just a matter of gluing it back together :-)

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RobnCA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat May 10 11:07:03 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Fri, 5/9/2025 6:50 PM, RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Thu, 5/8/2025 5:30 PM, Robert in CA wrote:
    RobnCA wrote:
    Paul wrote:
    On Wed, 4/30/2025 1:17 AM, RobnCA wrote:


    The other GT730 came today but this one had all
    the paper work and a manual and CD to load the
    driver. So we have a driver for both video cards.

    Robert

    When the DVI to VGA adapter arrives, do not force it into the connector. >>>>>>
    Look carefully at the two mating portions, where it is about
    to plug in, and make sure you don't break the metal cross
    off by pushing too hard on it. If it does not fit, it
    is the "not-compatible" case.

         Paul




    The adapter was supposed to have arrived on Monday and I've
    waited all week and it still isn't here. I notified the seller and
    they said its on it way but I'm tired of waiting.  I just ordered
    another.

    I also checked into external hard drives for the new 8500
    they don't offer a 6TB anymore, only 4TB and 8TB so I would
    have to get the 8TB but for now I'll use the old 2TB WD external.

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-desktop-hdd-st2000dm001-2tb/p/N82E16822148834#

    Robert


    In passing, I was apparently using a trial base
    premium malewarebytes because I got a message
    saying my coverage was ending. When it ended I
    selected the free option and my score went from 90
    to 72 instantly. So I wonder how much is just marketing

    Robert


    On your AV, that sounds like marketing to me :-)

    *******

    As for the hard drive selection, even the Newegg selection
    is looking pretty thin, on actual quality drives. The idea
    is not to buy shingled (SMR) drives, because the write speed
    is a fraction of the read speed. If the read was at 100,
    the write would be at 66. Whereas PMR (CMR), which
    stands for Perpendicular Magnetic Storage its real name,
    or Conventional Magnetic storage to try to confuse people,
    if that type reads at 100, it writes at 100 as well.
    PMR (CMR) is the "no-tricks" drive type.

    WD Red Pro 6TB (holes in wrong place) WD6005FFBX  $210

    https://www.newegg.com/red-pro-wd6005ffbx-6tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822234561

    WD Black 6TB (holes OK for tray mount) WD6004FZBX  $170

    https://www.newegg.com/black-wd6004fzbx-6tb/p/N82E16822234559

    Seagate BarraCuda NE-ST8000DM004 8TB 5400 RPM 256MB Cache  $110    SMR [datasheet] (unsteady write rate)

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-barracuda-ne-st8000dm004-8tb-hard-drive-for-daily-computing-5400-rpm/p/N82E16822183793

    Seagate IronWolf Pro ST8000NT001 8TB 7200 RPM 256MB Cache  $220   CMR  (hole location hard to verify, is likely OK, a bit warm)

    https://www.newegg.com/seagate-ironwolf-pro-st8000nt001-8tb-enterprise-nas-hard-drives-7200-rpm/p/N82E16822185077

    The Seagate for $110, would still work for backups. It would
    not make a particularly good boot drive.

    There's just no way to predict which one of these things will thump.
    The 18TB helium drive thumps. A 4TB Seagate thumps. The 6TB Black was
    reasonably quiet. The thump may be part of self test. but it is
    annoying when you're doing a backup, the write should be sequential
    and quiet, and there is a thump once a second. I've had drives that
    did it and drives that did not do it, and it is hard to detect
    a "theme" suitable for predicting model noise level on an unknown
    drive model.

        Paul


    Yeah I thought it strange the A/V going from 90 to 72 instantly...

    I think the Seagate Barracuda sounds like a good choice for the
    external hd for the new 8500. I've used all Seagate drives throughout
    because they are all quiet and reliable.

    Can I still use the same external case?

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-nst-387s3-bk-enclosure/p/N82E16817392118

    In passing, I checked the WD external hd but I when I clicked
    restore there was no browse option. It was below and to the left,..
    so I clicked it and changed the drive letter to Z but I couldn't
    remember how to dismount it. So I restarted the computer
    and now it's a X?  Did I screw it up?

    https://postimg.cc/Xr025zz8

    https://postimg.cc/4n9b11tF

    https://postimg.cc/D4kGNtsp

    Robert

    Sorry, I was a bit distracted yesterday. Was running around a bit.

    This is info on your enclosure.

    https://www.newegg.com/vantec-nst-387s3-bk-enclosure/p/N82E16817392118

    "HDD Capacity: Up to 16TB" <=== that means they've tested with that large of a drive

    *******

    Drive letter assignments made while in the Macrium Rescue environment,
    are not persistent. And X: happens to be the Macrium Rescue CD OS partition, for as long as the CD is booted, so the machine is unlikely to "donate X"
    to you, while the CD is booted.

    Drive letters are stored in the running OS registry. They are not even
    stored on the individual partition headers.

    mountvol

    Possible values for VolumeName along with current mount points are:

    \\?\Volume{0bd6166a-0836-4041-891c-792df2c72abd}\
    C:\ <=== Win11 OS

    \\?\Volume{c3bc5ab1-c5f0-4dae-838c-751ef868e237}\ <=== Hidden recovery partition
    *** NO MOUNT POINTS ***

    \\?\Volume{bd4d69bc-6fbb-4f12-b804-f32c6b9e828c}\ <=== Win10 OS
    H:\

    \\?\Volume{af386bcf-16c0-483f-a84b-b310cc27c8e8}\ <=== Hidden recovery partition
    *** NO MOUNT POINTS ***

    \\?\Volume{4f8397da-61df-4a97-b913-9bd526c13c9a}\ <=== Data partition "SHARED", never defragmented, on SSD
    S:\

    \\?\Volume{8d5a14be-87fc-459b-afb1-8959cb4d727a}\ <=== ??? not sure where this is coming from...
    *** NO MOUNT POINTS ***

    The individual partition header lists the file system type, but the
    volume name is stored in the $MFT (master file table) or so,
    in the $VOLUME entry. I found an article the other day,
    that claimed the NTFS volume name could be roughly dead reckoned
    just from initial address assigned for the master file table
    (it's about 3GB down, but only on "huge" NTFS partitions).
    And the guy was right. I scrolled down that far, and there it was.
    The name of my data partition. But this does not imply that
    finding the partition name in an emergency situation, would
    be that easy. You would have to do a couple steps to work out
    where it was on, say, a hard drive that had been defragmented.
    I thought it humorous though, that his guess was spot on,
    for where the $MFT would be (assuming it never got moved of course).

    [Picture]

    https://i.postimg.cc/L4JvkGnx/Finding-VOLUME-name-like-lottery-win.gif

    This scheme has just too many of those stupid numbers...
    They could have taken lessons from Apple, on a few things.
    It's not the complexity that matters, it's that ordinary
    users have to "bob for apples" in this stuff, to get their
    data back. I have a case in another group, of a guy whose
    external disk had gone ka-flooy, and haven't heard back
    what a scan shows for the contents yet. I'm sure his data
    is all there, it's just a matter of gluing it back together :-)

    Paul




    Not a problem,. I've been a bit distracted myself,..my car still doesn't
    drive quite right since the smog test. It's OK until I turn on the A/C
    and stop at a light then it shudders. So I need to have my guy fix it.

    Also waiting for the adapter,.. until it arrives we can't do anything.

    That's one of the reasons why I decided to check the WD external hd. As
    I remember, to dismount the drive the drive letter was on the left hand
    margin and you right clicked it to dismount the drive but it wasn't on
    the left hand margin this time. So I didn't know how to dismount it?

    In any case, there was only three mrimgs from 2021on it and I deleted 2
    of them and am planning to delete the third when I create a mrimg for
    the present hd in the new 8500 and then will delete that when I install
    the cloned Win 7 hd and create a mrimg for it.

    I'll go ahead and order the barracuda 8TB hd and external case at the
    end of the month when I get my next check.

    Unreal you found your volume name ! So I guess the article was right but
    not exactly user friendly as you point out.

    Wow,.. I feel sorry for the guy with the bad external hd. What do you
    think happened? That's why I bought the 8500 and soon another external
    hd,, redundancy never hurts. :)

    Robert






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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to RobnCA on Sun May 11 09:21:07 2025
    On Sat, 5/10/2025 2:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Wow,.. I feel sorry for the guy with the bad external hd.
    What do you think happened? That's why I bought the 8500 and
    soon another external hd,, redundancy never hurts. :)

    Robert

    It looks like damage from a third-party partition management utility.

    Disk Management did not do that.

    But until he comes back, and indicates what a TestDisk scan
    shows, it's hard to say what will happen next.

    Normally, partition management utilities do not make mistakes
    like that. That is the part that is puzzling. Potentially,
    it is two errors in a row, an improperly prepared GPT initialization,
    followed by a bug in the partition management software. It would
    take two errors to get that far into the soup.

    Paul

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  • From Robert in CA@21:1/5 to Paul on Sun May 11 12:26:37 2025
    Paul wrote:
    On Sat, 5/10/2025 2:07 PM, RobnCA wrote:


    Wow,.. I feel sorry for the guy with the bad external hd.
    What do you think happened? That's why I bought the 8500 and
    soon another external hd,, redundancy never hurts. :)

    Robert

    It looks like damage from a third-party partition management utility.

    Disk Management did not do that.

    But until he comes back, and indicates what a TestDisk scan
    shows, it's hard to say what will happen next.

    Normally, partition management utilities do not make mistakes
    like that. That is the part that is puzzling. Potentially,
    it is two errors in a row, an improperly prepared GPT initialization, followed by a bug in the partition management software. It would
    take two errors to get that far into the soup.

    Paul



    Hmmmmmmm that is strange,.. hope he gets back to you with the
    TestDisk so you can see what it shows,.

    In the meantime,.. we wait for the adapter,.. I'll let you know when
    it arrives,.

    Robert

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