• Solar car battery charger

    From Charlie@21:1/5 to All on Sun Nov 3 21:58:11 2024
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    I have a project I've been wanting to create for years which is a solar spa where the entire setup runs off the grid completely. No 120VAC is desired.

    I already have an RV pump which pumps water from the spa back to the spa
    (after running it through a long black hose of probably hundreds of feet). <https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF7B1VYD>

    I tested that pump today on an old battery and it seems to be working.
    a. It pulls water out of the spa via a garden hose on the pump input.
    b. And it puts it back via a garden hose on the pump output into the spa.

    The specs on that RV pump are 12VDC, 4.65Amps, 8.0 Amps maximum.

    I have three spare car batteries (which probably aren't in the greatest of shape as they're old batteries which friends discarded & gave to me).

    All I need now is the solar panel setup. But I know nothing about solar.

    I'm sure I need a panel and some way to control the battery charging.

    What kind of panel do you think I need?
    And does it need some kind of control module to charge a car battery?

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  • From rbowman@21:1/5 to Charlie on Mon Nov 4 07:00:37 2024
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On Sun, 3 Nov 2024 21:58:11 -0700, Charlie wrote:

    What kind of panel do you think I need?
    And does it need some kind of control module to charge a car battery?

    You can cheap out and skip the control module if you keep an eye on the voltage. A little overcharging probably won't hurt not the greatest
    batteries. Just check the electrolyte levels and keep them up. Put a
    blocking diode in series with the panel.

    https://www.homemade-circuits.com/how-to-make-solar-battery-charger/

    Some cheap circuits if you know anything about electronics. Solar panels
    have a nice feature. They are current sources. Short them out and the
    voltage goes to zero and the current limits to the short circuit current. Obviously you want a blocking diode since shorting a lead acid battery
    usually is a little dramatic.

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  • From Charlie@21:1/5 to rbowman on Fri Nov 15 20:39:11 2024
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On this 4 Nov 2024 07:00:37 GMT, rbowman wrote:

    On Sun, 3 Nov 2024 21:58:11 -0700, Charlie wrote:

    What kind of panel do you think I need?
    And does it need some kind of control module to charge a car battery?

    You can cheap out and skip the control module if you keep an eye on the voltage. A little overcharging probably won't hurt not the greatest batteries. Just check the electrolyte levels and keep them up. Put a
    blocking diode in series with the panel.

    https://www.homemade-circuits.com/how-to-make-solar-battery-charger/

    Some cheap circuits if you know anything about electronics. Solar panels
    have a nice feature. They are current sources. Short them out and the
    voltage goes to zero and the current limits to the short circuit current. Obviously you want a blocking diode since shorting a lead acid battery usually is a little dramatic.

    Do you think this 10 Watt (claimed) solar panel can charge a car battery? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DG5J98YH

    It (says it) supports 12 volts.

    The goal is a DIY science project but it has to work to do the job.

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  • From rbowman@21:1/5 to Charlie on Sat Nov 16 05:00:59 2024
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Fri, 15 Nov 2024 20:39:11 -0700, Charlie wrote:

    Do you think this 10 Watt (claimed) solar panel can charge a car
    battery?
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DG5J98YH

    It (says it) supports 12 volts.

    The goal is a DIY science project but it has to work to do the job.

    I doubt it. It says it has a switch for 6, 9, or 12 volts which makes me
    think it has adjustable voltage regulator similar to

    https://www.sparkfun.com/products/527

    to be compatible with AAs, Ds, or whatever the game camera uses, A charged
    car battery is around 12.6V and the charging circuit is 14-14.5.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N2PR267/

    is designed to maintain car batteries and has some overcharge circuitry
    but doesn't limit out at 12 V. It's similar to the plug in battery
    maintainers that I use to keep the bike batteries healthy over the winter.

    Now for the bad news. How many watt-hours is your science project going to require, In other words how many watts does it require, and how long are
    you going to run it per day? Then consider the solar panel. The 10W
    rating assumes full sunlight. Even on a sunny day in southern AZ, unless
    you have a tracker, if you graphed the output you'd get a nice curve
    maxxing out when the panel is perpendicular to the sun, building up in the morning and declining in the afternoon. You won't see full output on
    overcast days and obviously nothing at night.

    https://www.radarsign.com/

    Those are popular here and are on trailers so they can move them to
    different locations, The trailer has a battery pack and a small solar
    panel, I'd guess around 30W. It's been cloudy and rainy for the last few
    days so the one I passed on my way home was barely functioning. If the
    weather forecast is correct it will be dead pretty soon.

    They work well in the summer but with shorter, darker days they struggle. That's solar power in a nutshell. Without knowing further details of your project my guess is you won't be happy.

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  • From Charlie@21:1/5 to rbowman on Sun Nov 17 08:42:22 2024
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On this 16 Nov 2024 05:00:59 GMT, rbowman wrote:

    Do you think this 10 Watt (claimed) solar panel can charge a car
    battery?
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DG5J98YH

    It (says it) supports 12 volts.

    The goal is a DIY science project but it has to work to do the job.

    I doubt it. It says it has a switch for 6, 9, or 12 volts which makes me think it has adjustable voltage regulator similar to

    https://www.sparkfun.com/products/527

    I've seen those simple potentiometer diagrams which show how to use that
    LM137 as an adjustable power supply. My goal is to build a solar-powered
    spa heater that slowly (or quickly - it doesn't matter the speed) pumps
    water in the summer from the spa (which is roughly about four feet cubed) through a few hundred feet of black hose back to the (now warmer) spa.

    I'm thinking of three major components might be needed to accomplish that.
    1. 12VDC water-transfer pump (of some sort - I have an RV pump now)
    2. 12VDC car battery (I have three old ones - which will work for now)
    3. Black garden hose (I have a few hundred feet of Continental Rubber hose)
    4. Some way of charging the battery using sunlight as the source

    My first problem is how to figure out what solar wattage I'll need.

    to be compatible with AAs, Ds, or whatever the game camera uses, A charged car battery is around 12.6V and the charging circuit is 14-14.5.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N2PR267/

    is designed to maintain car batteries and has some overcharge circuitry
    but doesn't limit out at 12 V. It's similar to the plug in battery maintainers that I use to keep the bike batteries healthy over the winter.

    Oooh. I like it!
    The Amazon description says it's a SUNER POWER 10W 12V Solar Battery
    Charger (Bulk, Absorption, Float) Maintainer, Built-in Smart MPPT Max Power Point Tracking Charge Controller, Adjustable Mount Bracket, Waterproof 10
    Watt Solar Panel Kits for Car Automotive Boat Marine RV Trailer with a
    floating charge voltage of 13.8VDC & an optimal-charge current of 0.56Amps
    with a trickle-charge current of 0.2Amps & an overcharge-protection voltage
    of 14.4VDC.

    The connector type they show is what my RV pump uses. What's it called?
    They called it an "SAE harness" in the picture on the Amazon listing. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N2PR267/

    I need to get one with alligator clamps to connect to the battery.
    So I need to know the name.

    In their diagram, the red is the female & the black is the male.
    But on my pump, the red is the male and the black is the female.

    Do you know what name to look up to get it with alligator clamps?
    And what is the overcharge-protection voltage anyway?

    Is that the highest that it will go before it limits its cutoff voltage?

    Now for the bad news. How many watt-hours is your science project going to require, In other words how many watts does it require, and how long are
    you going to run it per day?

    Dunno. My friend dropped off a second RV pump for me to try.
    1st RV pump: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF7B1VYD (4.6Amps, 8Amps max)
    2nd RV pump: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CBLYJX63 (9Amps, 18Amps max)

    That makes the 1st pump about 55 Watts & the 2nd about double that.
    The old "Interstate Batteries, All Seasons" battery sticker on the top says MT26, 625CCA, 655CA & RC85.

    Do you think that car battery (let's assume if it was new) could run the smaller pump for about five hours during the hottest part of the day?

    Using 50 Watts and 100 Watts for simpler math, I think that means the
    battery needs five times that in watt hours, or 250 to 500 Watt hours.

    Does my quick calculation above sound about right?

    Then consider the solar panel. The 10W
    rating assumes full sunlight. Even on a sunny day in southern AZ, unless
    you have a tracker, if you graphed the output you'd get a nice curve
    maxxing out when the panel is perpendicular to the sun, building up in the morning and declining in the afternoon. You won't see full output on overcast days and obviously nothing at night.

    I'm trying to size the solar panel, where you're helping a lot, as I just realized only when I did the math above that I may need something like a 50 Watt panel for the smaller pump to run it real time.

    But don't I need a smaller panel if it's running off the battery?

    Unfortunately both battery & panel have to work together during the day but
    the battery can be charged all day while the pump only needs to run during
    the late morning and early afternoon to get the hottest sunlight, right?

    https://www.radarsign.com/

    Those are popular here and are on trailers so they can move them to
    different locations, The trailer has a battery pack and a small solar
    panel, I'd guess around 30W. It's been cloudy and rainy for the last few
    days so the one I passed on my way home was barely functioning. If the weather forecast is correct it will be dead pretty soon.

    They work well in the summer but with shorter, darker days they struggle. That's solar power in a nutshell. Without knowing further details of your project my guess is you won't be happy.

    Thanks for helping me run the calculations.

    Do you think the car battery can run the motor long enough for the hottest parts of the day? And do you think maybe a similar-sized 30 Watt solar
    panel can charge it back if that solar panel charges for the entire day?

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  • From rbowman@21:1/5 to Charlie on Sun Nov 17 20:03:42 2024
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On Sun, 17 Nov 2024 08:42:22 -0700, Charlie wrote:

    I'm trying to size the solar panel, where you're helping a lot, as I
    just realized only when I did the math above that I may need something
    like a 50 Watt panel for the smaller pump to run it real time.

    But don't I need a smaller panel if it's running off the battery?

    There is no magic. The battery is a storage device. If you take 250 watt-
    hours out, you need to put 250 watt-hours in, or more like 300 for inefficiencies. You have to figure out how many hours of dependable sun
    light you have, allowing for overcast days.

    Think of a battery like a checking account. It doesn't matter when you
    deposit money or when the checks clear as long as there is as much or more going in than out. Erring on the high side is better. Say you have three
    or four overcast days where you're not putting much in. That will
    discharge the battery.

    Car batteries are designed mostly for cranking amps and do not like being deeply discharged and recharged. RV or 'deep-cycle' batteries are designed
    for that use.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deep-cycle_battery

    RV batteries are a compromise:

    https://www.interstatebatteries.com/recreation-vehicles/rv-batteries/deep- cycle

    The gold standard for solar systems are golf cart or forklift batteries.
    They are heavy, expensive, and what you find locally may be 6V so you need
    two.

    I'm leaving out lithium ion batteries, given your shoestring budget.

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  • From Carlos E.R.@21:1/5 to Charlie on Sun Nov 17 23:13:40 2024
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 2024-11-04 05:58, Charlie wrote:
    I have a project I've been wanting to create for years which is a solar spa where the entire setup runs off the grid completely. No 120VAC is desired.

    I already have an RV pump which pumps water from the spa back to the spa (after running it through a long black hose of probably hundreds of feet). <https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF7B1VYD>

    I tested that pump today on an old battery and it seems to be working.
    a. It pulls water out of the spa via a garden hose on the pump input.
    b. And it puts it back via a garden hose on the pump output into the spa.

    The specs on that RV pump are 12VDC, 4.65Amps, 8.0 Amps maximum.

    I have three spare car batteries (which probably aren't in the greatest of shape as they're old batteries which friends discarded & gave to me).

    All I need now is the solar panel setup. But I know nothing about solar.

    I'm sure I need a panel and some way to control the battery charging.

    What kind of panel do you think I need?
    And does it need some kind of control module to charge a car battery?

    You don't need a battery: just run the pump directly from the solar
    panel. If the solar panel doesn't generate electricity, it means there
    is no sun, so no heating the water either.

    You may need a voltage limiter, perhaps.

    --
    Cheers, Carlos.

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  • From Scott Dorsey@21:1/5 to charlie@nospam.com on Mon Nov 18 08:37:52 2024
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    In article <vh944v$1it6$1@neodome.net>, Charlie <charlie@nospam.com> wrote:

    Do you think this 10 Watt (claimed) solar panel can charge a car battery? >https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DG5J98YH

    It (says it) supports 12 volts.

    The goal is a DIY science project but it has to work to do the job.

    Sure. The question is how fast it can charge.

    Figure a cell that gives you 10W in full Arixona sun gives you about 1W on the average in upstate New York given cloudy conditions and the sun often being lower on the horizon. Figure nine hours a day of sun in December in New York. How many amp-hours do you need?
    --scott
    --
    "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

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  • From AMuzi@21:1/5 to Bob F on Mon Nov 18 15:32:58 2024
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 11/18/2024 9:45 AM, Bob F wrote:
    On 11/3/2024 8:58 PM, Charlie wrote:
    I have a project I've been wanting to create for years
    which is a solar spa
    where the entire setup runs off the grid completely. No
    120VAC is desired.

    I already have an RV pump which pumps water from the spa
    back to the spa
    (after running it through a long black hose of probably
    hundreds of feet).
    <https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF7B1VYD>

    I tested that pump today on an old battery and it seems to
    be working.
    a. It pulls water out of the spa via a garden hose on the
    pump input.
    b. And it puts it back via a garden hose on the pump
    output into the spa.

    The specs on that RV pump are 12VDC, 4.65Amps, 8.0 Amps
    maximum.

    I have three spare car batteries (which probably aren't in
    the greatest of
    shape as they're old batteries which friends discarded &
    gave to me).

    All I need now is the solar panel setup. But I know
    nothing about solar.

    I'm sure I need a panel and some way to control the
    battery charging.

    What kind of panel do you think I need?
    And does it need some kind of control module to charge a
    car battery?

    You might not need a pump. If the heat collection coil is
    placed low relative to the top of the spa with the water
    from the spa taken out at the bottom and the water going
    back to the spa going in near the top, the hot water from
    the heat coil will rise to flow back just from the heated
    water rising into the spa. The more heat it collects, the
    more water flow it will have.

    Black polyethylene water pipe could make an excellent water
    heating coil.

    +1
    Very much like a Model T Ford water system

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    am@yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

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  • From Xeno@21:1/5 to AMuzi on Tue Nov 19 15:21:00 2024
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 19/11/2024 8:32 am, AMuzi wrote:
    On 11/18/2024 9:45 AM, Bob F wrote:
    On 11/3/2024 8:58 PM, Charlie wrote:
    I have a project I've been wanting to create for years which is a
    solar spa
    where the entire setup runs off the grid completely. No 120VAC is
    desired.

    I already have an RV pump which pumps water from the spa back to the spa >>> (after running it through a long black hose of probably hundreds of
    feet).
    <https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF7B1VYD>

    I tested that pump today on an old battery and it seems to be working.
    a. It pulls water out of the spa via a garden hose on the pump input.
    b. And it puts it back via a garden hose on the pump output into the
    spa.

    The specs on that RV pump are 12VDC, 4.65Amps, 8.0 Amps maximum.

    I have three spare car batteries (which probably aren't in the
    greatest of
    shape as they're old batteries which friends discarded & gave to me).

    All I need now is the solar panel setup. But I know nothing about solar. >>>
    I'm sure I need a panel and some way to control the battery charging.

    What kind of panel do you think I need?
    And does it need some kind of control module to charge a car battery?

    You might not need a pump. If the heat collection coil is placed low
    relative to the top of the spa with the water from the spa taken out
    at the bottom and the water going back to the spa going in near the
    top, the hot water from the heat coil will rise to flow back just from
    the heated water rising into the spa. The more heat it collects, the
    more water flow it will have.

    Black polyethylene water pipe could make an excellent water heating coil.

    +1
    Very much like a Model T Ford water system

    The Model T system is known as a *thermo-siphon*. The *fill point* is at
    the top of the radiator which is also the highest point in the system.
    All points lower in the system are sealed.

    A low point in a spa, the water surface in the spa itself, will not be
    sealed. That means, in order for it to work as a siphon, thermo or
    otherwise, you will need a means of bleeding the air from the pipes on
    the roof. Then you will likely have another problem, the circulation
    will be slow if not pump assisted so the water in the roof pipes is
    likely to boil creating a gas barrier (steam) which will prevent the thermo-siphon effect from working.

    I have a solar hot water system on my roof which takes water from the
    tank at ground level and sends it around the solar collector on the roof
    then back to the tank. It has a small pump at the tank just for
    circulation, the thermo-siphon effect being insufficient to provide
    adequate water flow. The circulation pump only consumes a few watts of
    power @ 230 Volts.

    --
    Xeno


    Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
    (with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)

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