• Sunday Ride

    From Tom Kunich@21:1/5 to All on Sun Dec 15 21:35:54 2024
    It rained pretty heavy yesterday but it took this dayhlight off in order
    to pick up again tomorrow.

    IK took advamtage of it to do 27 milexs on my flat route.

    There was one group of 9 riders out besides perhaps 8 or 10 more simgles passing me by like I was standing still even people riding gravel bikes
    with fat tires. Oh well, I could have been listening to Frank tell me that
    he knows all about FSA 30 mm cranksets and you definitely can't have a
    crank fall off because he is the world's foremost expert on crank
    installation and he knows exactly how and why my crank fell off.

    But aside from that, I bought a 170 mm Dura Ace Crank to install on one of
    my good bikes. I want to see if it has any improvements over the 172.5.

    I intend to install the LTWoo 10 speed group on the small ReRosa. If my
    friend doesn't like the way it rides I will donate it to my oldest step- daughter. Although she is a runner with every award for her age group in
    this area, it is my opinion that she has to start riding a bike to stress
    her knees less. And if she doesn't like riding a bike instead of running
    she has a daughter that will be able ride this top end bike. And they live close to the meeting place for the Fremont Freewheelers rides.

    If the grand daughter ends up riding the bike I will have to ride with
    them to teach her to ride and pick up the tab at the coffee/pastry shop. I
    know that children are very fast learners and I am really slow these days

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  • From Roger Merriman@21:1/5 to Tom Kunich on Tue Dec 17 22:28:22 2024
    Tom Kunich <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
    It rained pretty heavy yesterday but it took this dayhlight off in order
    to pick up again tomorrow.

    IK took advamtage of it to do 27 milexs on my flat route.

    There was one group of 9 riders out besides perhaps 8 or 10 more simgles passing me by like I was standing still even people riding gravel bikes
    with fat tires. Oh well, I could have been listening to Frank tell me that
    he knows all about FSA 30 mm cranksets and you definitely can't have a
    crank fall off because he is the world's foremost expert on crank installation and he knows exactly how and why my crank fell off.

    Well you’ve posted about getting slower, and Gravel bikes are well road
    bikes so capable of being quick.

    Takes some doing for a crank to fall off to be honest, my Gravel bike
    bottom bracket is fairly stuffed and before I could feel any movement
    rocking the crank I could feel it riding.

    But aside from that, I bought a 170 mm Dura Ace Crank to install on one of
    my good bikes. I want to see if it has any improvements over the 172.5.

    I don’t seem to be princess and pea with bike fit, and thus haven’t explored anything like that.

    I intend to install the LTWoo 10 speed group on the small ReRosa. If my friend doesn't like the way it rides I will donate it to my oldest step- daughter. Although she is a runner with every award for her age group in
    this area, it is my opinion that she has to start riding a bike to stress
    her knees less. And if she doesn't like riding a bike instead of running
    she has a daughter that will be able ride this top end bike. And they live close to the meeting place for the Fremont Freewheelers rides.

    If the grand daughter ends up riding the bike I will have to ride with
    them to teach her to ride and pick up the tab at the coffee/pastry shop. I know that children are very fast learners and I am really slow these days

    Interesting technology the LTWoo stuff or mainly the cost of its
    electronics groupsets as ever it’s the support as and when stuff breaks.

    Mate had his rear mech SRAM electronic rear mech die recently, which was a warranty job, how well that works with LTWoo kit?

    Let alone just being electronic isn’t enough of value for me personally.
    This said the cables on said bike are definitely toast and along with
    bottom bracket are due to be replaced about a year old so well within
    expected timeframe.

    Roger Merriman

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  • From Zen Cycle@21:1/5 to Roger Merriman on Wed Dec 18 08:11:05 2024
    On 12/17/2024 5:28 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
    Tom Kunich <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
    It rained pretty heavy yesterday but it took this dayhlight off in order
    to pick up again tomorrow.

    IK took advamtage of it to do 27 milexs on my flat route.

    There was one group of 9 riders out besides perhaps 8 or 10 more simgles
    passing me by like I was standing still even people riding gravel bikes
    with fat tires. Oh well, I could have been listening to Frank tell me that >> he knows all about FSA 30 mm cranksets and you definitely can't have a
    crank fall off because he is the world's foremost expert on crank
    installation and he knows exactly how and why my crank fell off.

    Well you’ve posted about getting slower, and Gravel bikes are well road bikes so capable of being quick.

    Takes some doing for a crank to fall off to be honest, my Gravel bike
    bottom bracket is fairly stuffed and before I could feel any movement
    rocking the crank I could feel it riding.

    But aside from that, I bought a 170 mm Dura Ace Crank to install on one of >> my good bikes. I want to see if it has any improvements over the 172.5.

    I don’t seem to be princess and pea with bike fit, and thus haven’t explored anything like that.

    I intend to install the LTWoo 10 speed group on the small ReRosa. If my
    friend doesn't like the way it rides I will donate it to my oldest step-
    daughter. Although she is a runner with every award for her age group in
    this area, it is my opinion that she has to start riding a bike to stress
    her knees less. And if she doesn't like riding a bike instead of running
    she has a daughter that will be able ride this top end bike. And they live >> close to the meeting place for the Fremont Freewheelers rides.

    If the grand daughter ends up riding the bike I will have to ride with
    them to teach her to ride and pick up the tab at the coffee/pastry shop. I >> know that children are very fast learners and I am really slow these days

    Interesting technology the LTWoo stuff or mainly the cost of its
    electronics groupsets as ever it’s the support as and when stuff breaks.

    Mate had his rear mech SRAM electronic rear mech die recently, which was a warranty job, how well that works with LTWoo kit?

    Let alone just being electronic isn’t enough of value for me personally. This said the cables on said bike are definitely toast and along with
    bottom bracket are due to be replaced about a year old so well within expected timeframe.

    I never trust manufacturers where the brand name looks like a random
    string of letters strung together. Although L-TWOO (that's the actual
    logo, https://www.ltwoo.com/foot/About_us/About_us) seems to have decent reviews, the fact that it's only available on ebay in the US gives me pause.

    I built up my gravel conversion last winter with a cable Microshift
    drivetrain. It's 2x10 so it was incredibly cheap on close out ($250) for shifters and derailleurs). I've had zero problems with it. Set up was
    easy, shifting is precise, reliable, and positive. The only downside is
    that it's a bit heavy, but unless you're a weight weenie this isn't much
    of an issue.




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  • From Zen Cycle@21:1/5 to cyclintom on Wed Dec 18 12:19:42 2024
    On 12/18/2024 11:40 AM, cyclintom wrote:
    On Wed Dec 18 08:11:05 2024 Zen Cycle wrote:
    On 12/17/2024 5:28 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
    Tom Kunich <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
    It rained pretty heavy yesterday but it took this dayhlight off in order >>>> to pick up again tomorrow.

    IK took advamtage of it to do 27 milexs on my flat route.

    There was one group of 9 riders out besides perhaps 8 or 10 more simgles >>>> passing me by like I was standing still even people riding gravel bikes >>>> with fat tires. Oh well, I could have been listening to Frank tell me that >>>> he knows all about FSA 30 mm cranksets and you definitely can't have a >>>> crank fall off because he is the world's foremost expert on crank
    installation and he knows exactly how and why my crank fell off.

    Well you?ve posted about getting slower, and Gravel bikes are well road
    bikes so capable of being quick.

    Takes some doing for a crank to fall off to be honest, my Gravel bike
    bottom bracket is fairly stuffed and before I could feel any movement
    rocking the crank I could feel it riding.

    But aside from that, I bought a 170 mm Dura Ace Crank to install on one of >>>> my good bikes. I want to see if it has any improvements over the 172.5. >>>
    I don?t seem to be princess and pea with bike fit, and thus haven?t
    explored anything like that.

    I intend to install the LTWoo 10 speed group on the small ReRosa. If my >>>> friend doesn't like the way it rides I will donate it to my oldest step- >>>> daughter. Although she is a runner with every award for her age group in >>>> this area, it is my opinion that she has to start riding a bike to stress >>>> her knees less. And if she doesn't like riding a bike instead of running >>>> she has a daughter that will be able ride this top end bike. And they live >>>> close to the meeting place for the Fremont Freewheelers rides.

    If the grand daughter ends up riding the bike I will have to ride with >>>> them to teach her to ride and pick up the tab at the coffee/pastry shop. I >>>> know that children are very fast learners and I am really slow these days >>>>
    Interesting technology the LTWoo stuff or mainly the cost of its
    electronics groupsets as ever it?s the support as and when stuff breaks. >>>
    Mate had his rear mech SRAM electronic rear mech die recently, which was a >>> warranty job, how well that works with LTWoo kit?

    Let alone just being electronic isn?t enough of value for me personally. >>> This said the cables on said bike are definitely toast and along with
    bottom bracket are due to be replaced about a year old so well within
    expected timeframe.

    I never trust manufacturers where the brand name looks like a random
    string of letters strung together. Although L-TWOO (that's the actual
    logo, https://www.ltwoo.com/foot/About_us/About_us) seems to have decent
    reviews, the fact that it's only available on ebay in the US gives me pause. >>
    I built up my gravel conversion last winter with a cable Microshift
    drivetrain. It's 2x10 so it was incredibly cheap on close out ($250) for
    shifters and derailleurs). I've had zero problems with it. Set up was
    easy, shifting is precise, reliable, and positive. The only downside is
    that it's a bit heavy, but unless you're a weight weenie this isn't much
    of an issue.





    By the way - the LTWoo cost $120 for the levers and derailleurs.

    I'm sure you think so.

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  • From Zen Cycle@21:1/5 to cyclintom on Wed Dec 18 12:18:02 2024
    On 12/18/2024 11:35 AM, cyclintom wrote:
    On Wed Dec 18 08:11:05 2024 Zen Cycle wrote:
    On 12/17/2024 5:28 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
    Tom Kunich <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
    It rained pretty heavy yesterday but it took this dayhlight off in order >>>> to pick up again tomorrow.

    IK took advamtage of it to do 27 milexs on my flat route.

    There was one group of 9 riders out besides perhaps 8 or 10 more simgles >>>> passing me by like I was standing still even people riding gravel bikes >>>> with fat tires. Oh well, I could have been listening to Frank tell me that >>>> he knows all about FSA 30 mm cranksets and you definitely can't have a >>>> crank fall off because he is the world's foremost expert on crank
    installation and he knows exactly how and why my crank fell off.

    Well you?ve posted about getting slower, and Gravel bikes are well road
    bikes so capable of being quick.

    Takes some doing for a crank to fall off to be honest, my Gravel bike
    bottom bracket is fairly stuffed and before I could feel any movement
    rocking the crank I could feel it riding.

    But aside from that, I bought a 170 mm Dura Ace Crank to install on one of >>>> my good bikes. I want to see if it has any improvements over the 172.5. >>>
    I don?t seem to be princess and pea with bike fit, and thus haven?t
    explored anything like that.

    I intend to install the LTWoo 10 speed group on the small ReRosa. If my >>>> friend doesn't like the way it rides I will donate it to my oldest step- >>>> daughter. Although she is a runner with every award for her age group in >>>> this area, it is my opinion that she has to start riding a bike to stress >>>> her knees less. And if she doesn't like riding a bike instead of running >>>> she has a daughter that will be able ride this top end bike. And they live >>>> close to the meeting place for the Fremont Freewheelers rides.

    If the grand daughter ends up riding the bike I will have to ride with >>>> them to teach her to ride and pick up the tab at the coffee/pastry shop. I >>>> know that children are very fast learners and I am really slow these days >>>>
    Interesting technology the LTWoo stuff or mainly the cost of its
    electronics groupsets as ever it?s the support as and when stuff breaks. >>>
    Mate had his rear mech SRAM electronic rear mech die recently, which was a >>> warranty job, how well that works with LTWoo kit?

    Let alone just being electronic isn?t enough of value for me personally. >>> This said the cables on said bike are definitely toast and along with
    bottom bracket are due to be replaced about a year old so well within
    expected timeframe.

    I never trust manufacturers where the brand name looks like a random
    string of letters strung together. Although L-TWOO (that's the actual
    logo, https://www.ltwoo.com/foot/About_us/About_us) seems to have decent
    reviews, the fact that it's only available on ebay in the US gives me pause. >>
    I built up my gravel conversion last winter with a cable Microshift
    drivetrain. It's 2x10 so it was incredibly cheap on close out ($250) for
    shifters and derailleurs). I've had zero problems with it. Set up was
    easy, shifting is precise, reliable, and positive. The only downside is
    that it's a bit heavy, but unless you're a weight weenie this isn't much
    of an issue.




    I bought an 11 speed LTWoo shift group a couple of years ago and it worked very well. At that time I was using full Campagnolo so I only bought them to look at. I offered them for free to anyone on the group that would like them but no one opted.

    In the meantime I have changed completely back to 10 speeds so since the shift group is amazingly cheap and they shift like the Campagnolo shifters, I decided to give these a try. Dura Ace 7800 with wires everywhere are troublesome but I have so many
    sets of them that I will try the LTWoo on the DeRosa Merak for my friend. If the levers don't work reliably I will replace them with the Dura Ace 7900.

    I assume that you don't have the financial status to test other things

    As usual, you assume incorrectly. It doesn't make sense to equip a 25
    year old mountain bike with 11 speed e-tap for a gravel conversion
    experiment, and if I'm going to go with a lower cost solution like LTWOO
    it makes just as much sense to choose Microshift over LTWOO.

    so I can understand your hesitancy to try an unknown brand;

    Microshift was unknown to me. The parts were sold through an on-line
    retailer with an independent web presence as opposed to LTWOO which all
    seem to be sold through someones PO box on amazon or ebay, and half of
    the LTWOO retailers have amazon or ebay storefronts with english
    spelling and grammar no better than yours - Sorry, not going to trust that.

    We know your history of buying things on ebay - you end up getting used
    shit that was promised to be new, it ends up not working, and you blame
    the part rather than the fact that you got swindled. The rest of us here
    are smarter than that.


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  • From Frank Krygowski@21:1/5 to Zen Cycle on Wed Dec 18 12:44:14 2024
    On 12/18/2024 8:11 AM, Zen Cycle wrote:

    I built up my gravel conversion last winter with a cable Microshift drivetrain. It's 2x10 so it was incredibly cheap on close out ($250) for shifters and derailleurs). I've had zero problems with it. Set up was
    easy, shifting is precise, reliable, and positive. The only downside is
    that it's a bit heavy, but unless you're a weight weenie this isn't much
    of an issue.

    Whenever I'm evaluating "a little heavy" I do it as percentage change in
    weight of the entire bike+rider package. That's the only way it matters.


    --
    - Frank Krygowski

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  • From Frank Krygowski@21:1/5 to cyclintom on Wed Dec 18 12:48:37 2024
    On 12/18/2024 11:22 AM, cyclintom wrote:
    On Tue Dec 17 21:09:02 2024 Frank Krygowski wrote:

    AFAIR, Tom has never given us the details on how and why his crank fell
    off, and how he could not notice the problem before it completely
    disconnected. I suspect he's way too embarrassed about it to tell us.
    But it ought to be quite a story!

    Andrew gave the torque settings necessary and I could not meet these settings with my bottom bracket width.

    That's no more informative than "Duh, I couldn't do it." Anyone with
    decent mechanical ability would have analyzed the problem and solved it
    before taking the bike on the road.

    And even someone with zero mechanical ability would have noticed the
    crank arm so loose it was ready to fall off, long before it actually hit
    the pavement!

    Really, Tom, I'm astonished that you're pretending this was somehow normal!

    --
    - Frank Krygowski

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  • From Roger Merriman@21:1/5 to Frank Krygowski on Wed Dec 18 21:02:49 2024
    Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
    On 12/18/2024 8:11 AM, Zen Cycle wrote:

    I built up my gravel conversion last winter with a cable Microshift
    drivetrain. It's 2x10 so it was incredibly cheap on close out ($250) for
    shifters and derailleurs). I've had zero problems with it. Set up was
    easy, shifting is precise, reliable, and positive. The only downside is
    that it's a bit heavy, but unless you're a weight weenie this isn't much
    of an issue.

    Whenever I'm evaluating "a little heavy" I do it as percentage change in weight of the entire bike+rider package. That's the only way it matters.


    Kinda depends on how and where it is, let alone what feels fast vs what is,
    ie light bikes vs aero bikes, I’m hugely simplifying as ever.

    Mind you with a MTB background where tires matter hugely and do to a extent with gravel bikes though not to the same degree, seeing bikes with cheap
    oem tires slightly baffles me, ie in terms of bang for your buck tires are
    hard to beat.

    Roger Merriman

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  • From Roger Merriman@21:1/5 to Frank Krygowski on Wed Dec 18 21:06:54 2024
    Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
    On 12/18/2024 11:22 AM, cyclintom wrote:
    On Tue Dec 17 21:09:02 2024 Frank Krygowski wrote:

    AFAIR, Tom has never given us the details on how and why his crank fell
    off, and how he could not notice the problem before it completely
    disconnected. I suspect he's way too embarrassed about it to tell us.
    But it ought to be quite a story!

    Andrew gave the torque settings necessary and I could not meet these
    settings with my bottom bracket width.

    That's no more informative than "Duh, I couldn't do it." Anyone with
    decent mechanical ability would have analyzed the problem and solved it before taking the bike on the road.

    And even someone with zero mechanical ability would have noticed the
    crank arm so loose it was ready to fall off, long before it actually hit
    the pavement!

    Really, Tom, I'm astonished that you're pretending this was somehow normal!

    My old MTB the interface between the cranks and bottom bracket wore out,
    enough that even torquing up it still had a wobble pedalling though little
    play if one just pulled the pedals about, ie didn’t take any mechanical knowledge to know something was up!

    Roger Merriman

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  • From Roger Merriman@21:1/5 to cyclintom on Wed Dec 18 23:13:28 2024
    cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
    On Wed Dec 18 21:06:54 2024 Roger Merriman wrote:
    Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
    On 12/18/2024 11:22 AM, cyclintom wrote:
    On Tue Dec 17 21:09:02 2024 Frank Krygowski wrote:

    AFAIR, Tom has never given us the details on how and why his crank fell >>>>> off, and how he could not notice the problem before it completely
    disconnected. I suspect he's way too embarrassed about it to tell us. >>>>> But it ought to be quite a story!

    Andrew gave the torque settings necessary and I could not meet these
    settings with my bottom bracket width.

    That's no more informative than "Duh, I couldn't do it." Anyone with
    decent mechanical ability would have analyzed the problem and solved it
    before taking the bike on the road.

    And even someone with zero mechanical ability would have noticed the
    crank arm so loose it was ready to fall off, long before it actually hit >>> the pavement!

    Really, Tom, I'm astonished that you're pretending this was somehow normal! >>>
    My old MTB the interface between the cranks and bottom bracket wore out,
    enough that even torquing up it still had a wobble pedalling though little >> play if one just pulled the pedals about, ie didn?t take any mechanical
    knowledge to know something was up!

    Roger Merriman




    Roger, you're better than listening to Liebermann, Krygowski or Flunky
    about anything bicycles. Franki has a square taper bottom bracket with
    steel crankarms on it. None of these guys know hardly anything about bicycles`.

    And FSA crank doesn't "wobble" because it is on a SPLINE. you don't even
    know it is loose until it falls out of the plines. ISO splined bottom brackets also do not wobble until they almost fall off and the screws are forward threaded so that they also can work their way off. I have seen
    square tapered cranks fall off not uncommonly because climbing, people
    are thinking about other things.

    They still wobble enough to be felt riding, my old MTB the spline or rather
    the cranks it fits into worn enough that did wobble, which one could feel
    when riding, even if was not danger of it loosening let alone dropping off.

    If it was just under torqued then yes you might not notice and the crank
    would stay on.

    But to be so loose that it’s just resting on the splines to the point it
    fell off that requires a number of leaps of faith, and it just doesn’t past the logic test.

    Frank doesn't know ahit but he is pretending a lot.

    Liebermann is not a bicycle rider though he might have been in the distant past.

    Flunky doesn't know shit about bikes. We were TALKING about racing bikes
    and I said that in the days of friction shifting that you always looked
    DOWN at the lever so that you could grab the correct lever in the stress
    of racing. I know that because I actually raced with friction shifters
    before click shifting came in. Flunky acted like that was the largest sin he ever heard.

    I'm sure that you just saw Flunky saying that he meant he didn't race friction shifters. but just normal riding without the stress and speed of racing. How the hell can you believe anything that comes from these guys?

    Zen and others have used friction shifters and he and maybe others have
    raced with them. And again even if shifting quickly and frequently you
    don’t need to look down as well the levers are where you expect them to be.

    Are index/STI etc levers easier/faster etc yes, but your not convincing
    anyone again, I think a few folks still regularly use friction shifters and those that did like myself certainly didn’t need to look down same as if change gear in car or adjust the stereo etc you keep your eyes on the wheel/bar.

    Again this doesn’t pass the logic test or convincing anyone.

    If you don't agree with something I say do so on your own posting and
    don't use these idiot's postings. They don't know anything and are willing to lie about it.

    I have almost a million miles on bicycles. I raced unsccessfully until I damaged my lungs with poison gas working on an Army contract that was used in the Gulf War.



    Work out the mileage a Million miles even over a lifetime requires
    significant repeated annual mileages of 15k or so miles.

    Roger Merriman

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  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to All on Wed Dec 18 15:18:39 2024
    On Wed, 18 Dec 2024 22:22:47 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    And FSA crank doesn't "wobble" because it is on a SPLINE. you don't even know it is loose until it falls out of the plines. ISO splined bottom brackets also do not wobble until they almost fall off and the screws are forward threaded so that they also
    can work their way off.

    In order for a crank arm to fall off, the spindle bolt or the pinch
    bolt would first need to fall off. Try removing or loosening the
    bolts and go for a ride. If you survive, try to tell me that you
    failed to notice a change in the way the way your feet moved or
    bicycle handled. I seem to recall you bragging how you could detect
    minute changes in gearing, rider position and frame geometry. Yet,
    you can't seem to detect that your bicycle is in the process of
    falling apart. Amazing.



    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  • From Frank Krygowski@21:1/5 to Roger Merriman on Wed Dec 18 18:26:23 2024
    On 12/18/2024 6:13 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
    cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:

    I have almost a million miles on bicycles. I raced unsccessfully until I
    damaged my lungs with poison gas working on an Army contract that was used in the Gulf War.

    Work out the mileage a Million miles even over a lifetime requires significant repeated annual mileages of 15k or so miles.

    :-) Please, don't subject Tom to arithmetic! You'll confuse the lad!


    --
    - Frank Krygowski

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  • From Frank Krygowski@21:1/5 to cyclintom on Wed Dec 18 18:25:08 2024
    On 12/18/2024 5:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:
    On Wed Dec 18 21:06:54 2024 Roger Merriman wrote:
    Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
    On 12/18/2024 11:22 AM, cyclintom wrote:
    On Tue Dec 17 21:09:02 2024 Frank Krygowski wrote:

    AFAIR, Tom has never given us the details on how and why his crank fell >>>>> off, and how he could not notice the problem before it completely
    disconnected. I suspect he's way too embarrassed about it to tell us. >>>>> But it ought to be quite a story!

    Andrew gave the torque settings necessary and I could not meet these
    settings with my bottom bracket width.

    That's no more informative than "Duh, I couldn't do it." Anyone with
    decent mechanical ability would have analyzed the problem and solved it
    before taking the bike on the road.

    And even someone with zero mechanical ability would have noticed the
    crank arm so loose it was ready to fall off, long before it actually hit >>> the pavement!

    Really, Tom, I'm astonished that you're pretending this was somehow normal! >>>
    My old MTB the interface between the cranks and bottom bracket wore out,
    enough that even torquing up it still had a wobble pedalling though little >> play if one just pulled the pedals about, ie didn?t take any mechanical
    knowledge to know something was up!

    Roger Merriman




    Roger, you're better than listening to Liebermann, Krygowski or Flunky about anything bicycles. Franki has a square taper bottom bracket with steel crankarms on it.

    Well, you're inching your way toward correctness. Earlier today, IIRC,
    you claimed I was riding one piece steel cranks. Keep trying, Tom! ;-)


    None of these guys know hardly anything about bicycles`.

    See below.
    > And FSA crank doesn't "wobble" because it is on a SPLINE. you don't
    even know it is loose until it falls out of the plines. ISO splined
    bottom brackets also do not wobble until they almost fall off and the
    screws are forward threaded so that they also can work their way off. I
    have seen square tapered cranks fall off not uncommonly because
    climbing, people are thinking about other things.

    Frank doesn't know ahit but he is pretending a lot.

    Liebermann is not a bicycle rider though he might have been in the distant past.

    Flunky doesn't know shit about bikes. We were TALKING about racing bikes and I said that in the days of friction shifting that you always looked DOWN at the lever so that you could grab the correct lever in the stress of racing. I know that because I
    actually raced with friction shifters before click shifting came in. Flunky acted like that was the largest sin he ever heard.

    I'm sure that you just saw Flunky saying that he meant he didn't race friction shifters. but just normal riding without the stress and speed of racing. How the hell can you believe anything that comes from these guys?

    If you don't agree with something I say do so on your own posting and don't use these idiot's postings. They don't know anything and are willing to lie about it.

    "

    "None of these guys know hardly anything about bicycles."

    And yet, we don't have major parts - or even minor ones! - falling off
    our bikes as we ride. Tom's the only one here with that experience!

    --
    - Frank Krygowski

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  • From Frank Krygowski@21:1/5 to cyclintom on Wed Dec 18 18:31:07 2024
    On 12/18/2024 4:39 PM, cyclintom wrote:
    On Sun Dec 15 22:32:07 2024 Frank Krygowski wrote:
    I don't know exactly how and why your crank fell off. Honestly, I can't
    conceive of someone doing such a terrible job of crank installation.

    IIRC, you never did really confess what your huge mistakes were, nor how
    you couldn't tell things were wrong long before it fell completely off.
    Care to enlighten us? It will probably be a funny tale!


    --
    - Frank Krygowski




    I will say again: Your bike no doubt has a square taper steel crankset Why would you talk about and FSA crankset that you know nothing about? Do you check the torque on the crank bolts before every ride? I have ridden with people whose crank bolts have
    worked out (they are forward threaded on the right side allowing them to work out if they become loose.)

    That's more nonsense.

    In fact, the locking mechanism on the FSA crank is as good as square taper or ISO.

    And yet, your crank fell off onto the road as you were riding! Since the
    design is so good, it must take extreme incompetence for that to happen!

    --
    - Frank Krygowski

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  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to Roger Merriman on Wed Dec 18 15:37:06 2024
    On 18 Dec 2024 23:13:28 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:

    Work out the mileage a Million miles even over a lifetime requires >significant repeated annual mileages of 15k or so miles.

    Good estimate. 60 years or riding would be about 22,000 days. If Tom
    rode once every day, that would be about 46 miles per day or about
    16,600 miles per year.

    However, Tom claims that he didn't have much time for anything except
    work:

    10/18/2024
    Message-ID: <2BAQO.251408$EEm7.40885@fx16.iad>
    "When I worked a job, I NEVER had time for anything other than work"

    Based on 200 work days per year over a 60 year span, that would be
    12,000 days for work with 10,000 days remaining for riding on every
    weekend and holiday. For 1 million miles per year, that would be 100
    miles per day. Assuming a leisurely pace of 10 mph, that would be 10
    hrs of riding per day. I don't think so.

    Trust, but verify. Tom, you just failed the verify part of the test. <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trust,_but_verify>

    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  • From Roger Merriman@21:1/5 to Frank Krygowski on Thu Dec 19 01:14:03 2024
    Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
    On 12/18/2024 5:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:
    On Wed Dec 18 21:06:54 2024 Roger Merriman wrote:
    Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
    On 12/18/2024 11:22 AM, cyclintom wrote:
    On Tue Dec 17 21:09:02 2024 Frank Krygowski wrote:

    AFAIR, Tom has never given us the details on how and why his crank fell >>>>>> off, and how he could not notice the problem before it completely
    disconnected. I suspect he's way too embarrassed about it to tell us. >>>>>> But it ought to be quite a story!

    Andrew gave the torque settings necessary and I could not meet these >>>>> settings with my bottom bracket width.

    That's no more informative than "Duh, I couldn't do it." Anyone with
    decent mechanical ability would have analyzed the problem and solved it >>>> before taking the bike on the road.

    And even someone with zero mechanical ability would have noticed the
    crank arm so loose it was ready to fall off, long before it actually hit >>>> the pavement!

    Really, Tom, I'm astonished that you're pretending this was somehow normal!

    My old MTB the interface between the cranks and bottom bracket wore out, >>> enough that even torquing up it still had a wobble pedalling though little >>> play if one just pulled the pedals about, ie didn?t take any mechanical
    knowledge to know something was up!

    Roger Merriman




    Roger, you're better than listening to Liebermann, Krygowski or Flunky
    about anything bicycles. Franki has a square taper bottom bracket with
    steel crankarms on it.

    Well, you're inching your way toward correctness. Earlier today, IIRC,
    you claimed I was riding one piece steel cranks. Keep trying, Tom! ;-)


    None of these guys know hardly anything about bicycles`.

    See below.
    And FSA crank doesn't "wobble" because it is on a SPLINE. you don't
    even know it is loose until it falls out of the plines. ISO splined
    bottom brackets also do not wobble until they almost fall off and the
    screws are forward threaded so that they also can work their way off. I
    have seen square tapered cranks fall off not uncommonly because
    climbing, people are thinking about other things.

    Frank doesn't know ahit but he is pretending a lot.

    Liebermann is not a bicycle rider though he might have been in the distant past.

    Flunky doesn't know shit about bikes. We were TALKING about racing bikes
    and I said that in the days of friction shifting that you always looked
    DOWN at the lever so that you could grab the correct lever in the stress
    of racing. I know that because I actually raced with friction shifters
    before click shifting came in. Flunky acted like that was the largest sin he ever heard.

    I'm sure that you just saw Flunky saying that he meant he didn't race
    friction shifters. but just normal riding without the stress and speed
    of racing. How the hell can you believe anything that comes from these guys? >>
    If you don't agree with something I say do so on your own posting and
    don't use these idiot's postings. They don't know anything and are
    willing to lie about it.

    "

    "None of these guys know hardly anything about bicycles."

    And yet, we don't have major parts - or even minor ones! - falling off
    our bikes as we ride. Tom's the only one here with that experience!


    I did to be fair have a rear mech disintegration, spring in the housing
    than the parallelogram either snapped or the housing became loose and then snapped.

    was quite a cheap rear mech so possibly glued in place? Was an interesting
    ride home like that! Lucky is every so slightly downhill home, drops 50ft
    or so over 10ish miles so essentially flat but every so slightly downhill!

    Roger Merriman

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  • From Roger Merriman@21:1/5 to Frank Krygowski on Thu Dec 19 10:30:30 2024
    Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
    On 12/18/2024 8:14 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
    Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
    On 12/18/2024 5:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:

    "None of these guys know hardly anything about bicycles."

    And yet, we don't have major parts - or even minor ones! - falling off
    our bikes as we ride. Tom's the only one here with that experience!


    I did to be fair have a rear mech disintegration, spring in the housing
    than the parallelogram either snapped or the housing became loose and then >> snapped.

    was quite a cheap rear mech so possibly glued in place? Was an interesting >> ride home like that! Lucky is every so slightly downhill home, drops 50ft
    or so over 10ish miles so essentially flat but every so slightly downhill!

    Sure, I imagine we've all had to deal with mechanical failures. When I
    used to drive sag support for our annual century ride I had some
    interesting fix-it projects of others' bikes, and I've dealt with a few broken bits on my own bike over the decades.

    That's quite different than installing a crank, going for a ride and
    having a crank arm literally fall off!

    There's a good (and embarrassing) reason Tom isn't giving us details on
    his mistake.


    Indeed I find his explanations unconvincing!

    Roger Merriman

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  • From zen cycle@21:1/5 to cyclintom on Thu Dec 19 06:42:25 2024
    On 12/18/2024 1:32 PM, cyclintom wrote:
    On Wed Dec 18 12:18:02 2024 Zen Cycle wrote:
    On 12/18/2024 11:35 AM, cyclintom wrote:

    I bought an 11 speed LTWoo shift group a couple of years ago and it worked very well. At that time I was using full Campagnolo so I only bought them to look at. I offered them for free to anyone on the group that would like them but no one opted.

    In the meantime I have changed completely back to 10 speeds so since the shift group is amazingly cheap and they shift like the Campagnolo shifters, I decided to give these a try. Dura Ace 7800 with wires everywhere are troublesome but I have so many
    sets of them that I will try the LTWoo on the DeRosa Merak for my friend. If the levers don't work reliably I will replace them with the Dura Ace 7900.

    I assume that you don't have the financial status to test other things

    As usual, you assume incorrectly. It doesn't make sense to equip a 25
    year old mountain bike with 11 speed e-tap for a gravel conversion
    experiment, and if I'm going to go with a lower cost solution like LTWOO
    it makes just as much sense to choose Microshift over LTWOO.

    so I can understand your hesitancy to try an unknown brand;

    Microshift was unknown to me. The parts were sold through an on-line
    retailer with an independent web presence as opposed to LTWOO which all
    seem to be sold through someones PO box on amazon or ebay, and half of
    the LTWOO retailers have amazon or ebay storefronts with english
    spelling and grammar no better than yours - Sorry, not going to trust that. >>
    We know your history of buying things on ebay - you end up getting used
    shit that was promised to be new, it ends up not working, and you blame
    the part rather than the fact that you got swindled. The rest of us here
    are smarter than that.

    We're in complete agreement that there's no use to use an electric group anywhere. But WHAT makes any sense in buying a Microshift group when you could have been given a LTWoo group? The LTWoo came from an on-line retailer.

    I wouldn't trust anything from you anymore that I would trust trump to
    act in the best interest of the american people.


    Tell me what "used shit" I bought that failed in any way?

    Off the top of my head - the garmin HRM.


    The FSA Crankset was new. There were light marks on the big ring showing that it had been removed from a new bike as they said.

    lol....sure, You get chain ring wear from installing/removing a new
    crankset off a new bike....lol....

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  • From zen cycle@21:1/5 to cyclintom on Thu Dec 19 06:49:35 2024
    On 12/18/2024 5:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:
    On Wed Dec 18 21:06:54 2024 Roger Merriman wrote:
    Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
    On 12/18/2024 11:22 AM, cyclintom wrote:
    On Tue Dec 17 21:09:02 2024 Frank Krygowski wrote:

    AFAIR, Tom has never given us the details on how and why his crank fell >>>>> off, and how he could not notice the problem before it completely
    disconnected. I suspect he's way too embarrassed about it to tell us. >>>>> But it ought to be quite a story!

    Andrew gave the torque settings necessary and I could not meet these
    settings with my bottom bracket width.

    That's no more informative than "Duh, I couldn't do it." Anyone with
    decent mechanical ability would have analyzed the problem and solved it
    before taking the bike on the road.

    And even someone with zero mechanical ability would have noticed the
    crank arm so loose it was ready to fall off, long before it actually hit >>> the pavement!

    Really, Tom, I'm astonished that you're pretending this was somehow normal! >>>
    My old MTB the interface between the cranks and bottom bracket wore out,
    enough that even torquing up it still had a wobble pedalling though little >> play if one just pulled the pedals about, ie didn?t take any mechanical
    knowledge to know something was up!

    Roger Merriman




    Roger, you're better than listening to Liebermann, Krygowski or Flunky about anything bicycles. Franki has a square taper bottom bracket with steel crankarms on it. None of these guys know hardly anything about bicycles`.

    And FSA crank doesn't "wobble" because it is on a SPLINE. you don't even know it is loose until it falls out of the plines. ISO splined bottom brackets also do not wobble until they almost fall off and the screws are forward threaded so that they also
    can work their way off. I have seen square tapered cranks fall off not uncommonly because climbing, people are thinking about other things.

    This, tommy - is why no one takes your word on any cycling related.
    - yes, splined crank arms will wobble when loose, giving plenty of
    warning before the fall off. Anyone who has removed a splined crank arm
    sees that as the crank backs off the spline.


    Frank doesn't know ahit but he is pretending a lot.

    Liebermann is not a bicycle rider though he might have been in the distant past.

    Flunky doesn't know shit about bikes. We were TALKING about racing bikes and I said that in the days of friction shifting that you always looked DOWN at the lever so that you could grab the correct lever in the stress of racing. I know that because I
    actually raced with friction shifters before click shifting came in. Flunky acted like that was the largest sin he ever heard.

    No, tommy, no competent rider needs to look down. Everyone here who has commented has told you that. You're the only one who thinks it's necessary


    I'm sure that you just saw Flunky saying that he meant he didn't race friction shifters. but just normal riding without the stress and speed of racing.

    REally? Where did I write that?. No, tommy, I've stated when I first
    started racing I used down-tube friction shifters, and raced with them
    for nearly ten years. I've never made any claim to the contrary.


    How the hell can you believe anything that comes from these guys?

    If you don't agree with something I say do so on your own posting and don't use these idiot's postings. They don't know anything and are willing to lie about it.

    I have almost a million miles on bicycles. I raced unsccessfully until I damaged my lungs with poison gas working on an Army contract that was used in the Gulf War.



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  • From Roger Merriman@21:1/5 to John B. on Thu Dec 19 21:14:55 2024
    John B. <slocombjb@gmail.com> wrote:
    On 19 Dec 2024 10:30:30 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:

    Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
    On 12/18/2024 8:14 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
    Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
    On 12/18/2024 5:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:

    "None of these guys know hardly anything about bicycles."

    And yet, we don't have major parts - or even minor ones! - falling off >>>>> our bikes as we ride. Tom's the only one here with that experience!


    I did to be fair have a rear mech disintegration, spring in the housing >>>> than the parallelogram either snapped or the housing became loose and then >>>> snapped.

    was quite a cheap rear mech so possibly glued in place? Was an interesting >>>> ride home like that! Lucky is every so slightly downhill home, drops 50ft >>>> or so over 10ish miles so essentially flat but every so slightly downhill! >>>
    Sure, I imagine we've all had to deal with mechanical failures. When I
    used to drive sag support for our annual century ride I had some
    interesting fix-it projects of others' bikes, and I've dealt with a few
    broken bits on my own bike over the decades.

    That's quite different than installing a crank, going for a ride and
    having a crank arm literally fall off!

    There's a good (and embarrassing) reason Tom isn't giving us details on
    his mistake.


    Indeed I find his explanations unconvincing!

    Roger Merriman


    Didn't Tommy say something about not being able to tighten the BB
    because a washer didn't fit or something similar?

    It would still hold even if not tightened fully, maybe a bit of movement
    but unlikely that the crank would fall off.

    This isn’t high technical level stuff!

    Roger Merriman

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  • From AMuzi@21:1/5 to cyclintom on Sun Jan 5 17:24:27 2025
    On 1/5/2025 3:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:
    I got enough sleep last night but zi really felt tired this morning so I decided to take a flat easy ride. I decided to ride the Basso Lotto because the Colnago is in dreadful need of a cleaning and rewaxing the chain.. The Basso has Bontrager X lite
    wheels on it. It also had Bontrager quick releases which are difficult to get properly tight.

    So three blocks from the house4 at a stop light, the rear wheel pulled forward, locked against the seat tubee and dumped me into the middle of the street. The traffic was polite and allowed me to get up and get the bike out if the way. I retightened
    the quick release and it happened again. So I tightened the quick release very tight and the wheel didn't move anymore. Another 5 blocks down the road my shoe came off. I stopped and reset that on much tighter.

    I got all of the way into Alameda and misjudged a car turning right in front of me and nearly got hit. I turned lerft and proceeded down to a stop sign where I didn't even see cross traffic and was almost hit. I got on a bike path and misjudged a 100
    degree turn and ran off of the path. Now none of this is something I would normally do. When I pulled into the coffee shop I could hardly stand. I was exhausted. I ordered coffee and something with a lot of sugar in it. I intended to take a shorter route
    on the way back. I felt pretty bsd on the return trip. But without incident other than misjudging when a light would change. that was harmless since there was no traffic on that street and the light did change halfway into the intersection.

    I have recently added half a Leveteracitam pill on doctor's advice and I think that is giving me a toxic blood level. I will back off of that and see what effect that has. Hopefully that will return me to normal.

    Also the fit of the Basso which was fair needs to tuning. Shorter stem, narrower handlebars and higher levers. Let's hpe that this all helps.

    Basso Loto has classic horizontal road ends. http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/basmia2.jpg

    Use steel (internal cam) skewers; aluminum (open cam)
    skewers will inherently slip.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    am@yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

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  • From Tom Kunich@21:1/5 to cyclintom on Fri Jan 10 17:39:03 2025
    On Mon, 06 Jan 2025 16:21:14 +0000, cyclintom wrote:

    On Sun Jan 5 17:24:27 2025 AMuzi wrote:
    On 1/5/2025 3:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:
    I got enough sleep last night but zi really felt tired this morning
    so I decided to take a flat easy ride. I decided to ride the Basso
    Lotto because the Colnago is in dreadful need of a cleaning and
    rewaxing the chain.. The Basso has Bontrager X lite wheels on it. It
    also had Bontrager quick releases which are difficult to get properly
    tight.

    So three blocks from the house4 at a stop light, the rear wheel
    pulled forward, locked against the seat tubee and dumped me into the
    middle of the street. The traffic was polite and allowed me to get up
    and get the bike out if the way. I retightened the quick release and
    it happened again. So I tightened the quick release very tight and
    the wheel didn't move anymore. Another 5 blocks down the road my shoe
    came off. I stopped and reset that on much tighter.

    I got all of the way into Alameda and misjudged a car turning right
    in front of me and nearly got hit. I turned lerft and proceeded down
    to a stop sign where I didn't even see cross traffic and was almost
    hit. I got on a bike path and misjudged a 100 degree turn and ran off
    of the path. Now none of this is something I would normally do. When
    I pulled into the coffee shop I could hardly stand. I was exhausted.
    I ordered coffee and something with a lot of sugar in it. I intended
    to take a shorter route on the way back. I felt pretty bsd on the
    return trip. But without incident other than misjudging when a light
    would change. that was harmless since there was no traffic on that
    street and the light did change halfway into the intersection.

    I have recently added half a Leveteracitam pill on doctor's advice
    and I think that is giving me a toxic blood level. I will back off of
    that and see what effect that has. Hopefully that will return me to
    normal.

    Also the fit of the Basso which was fair needs to tuning. Shorter
    stem, narrower handlebars and higher levers. Let's hpe that this all
    helps.

    Basso Loto has classic horizontal road ends.
    http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/basmia2.jpg

    Use steel (internal cam) skewers; aluminum (open cam) skewers will
    inherently slip.




    You are absolutely right. Campagnolo quick releases never had the
    problems that these aluminum quick releases do. I returned tol my two
    pills of leveteracitam last night rather than 2 1/2 and woke up this
    morning almost normal again.I will contact my neurologist today and let
    him kno3w what happened to me yesterday.

    By the way, I was talking to Robinson about that problem on Wednesday and
    he had the same fix I did - Use Campy or Shimano old style quick releases
    that would actually cam-lock down on the Campy horizontal dropouts. This business about saving every gram possible by making aluminum quick
    releases is bunkers.

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  • From AMuzi@21:1/5 to Tom Kunich on Fri Jan 10 13:08:07 2025
    On 1/10/2025 11:39 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
    On Mon, 06 Jan 2025 16:21:14 +0000, cyclintom wrote:

    On Sun Jan 5 17:24:27 2025 AMuzi wrote:
    On 1/5/2025 3:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:
    I got enough sleep last night but zi really felt tired this morning
    so I decided to take a flat easy ride. I decided to ride the Basso
    Lotto because the Colnago is in dreadful need of a cleaning and
    rewaxing the chain.. The Basso has Bontrager X lite wheels on it. It
    also had Bontrager quick releases which are difficult to get properly
    tight.

    So three blocks from the house4 at a stop light, the rear wheel
    pulled forward, locked against the seat tubee and dumped me into the
    middle of the street. The traffic was polite and allowed me to get up
    and get the bike out if the way. I retightened the quick release and
    it happened again. So I tightened the quick release very tight and
    the wheel didn't move anymore. Another 5 blocks down the road my shoe
    came off. I stopped and reset that on much tighter.

    I got all of the way into Alameda and misjudged a car turning right
    in front of me and nearly got hit. I turned lerft and proceeded down
    to a stop sign where I didn't even see cross traffic and was almost
    hit. I got on a bike path and misjudged a 100 degree turn and ran off
    of the path. Now none of this is something I would normally do. When
    I pulled into the coffee shop I could hardly stand. I was exhausted.
    I ordered coffee and something with a lot of sugar in it. I intended
    to take a shorter route on the way back. I felt pretty bsd on the
    return trip. But without incident other than misjudging when a light
    would change. that was harmless since there was no traffic on that
    street and the light did change halfway into the intersection.

    I have recently added half a Leveteracitam pill on doctor's advice
    and I think that is giving me a toxic blood level. I will back off of
    that and see what effect that has. Hopefully that will return me to
    normal.

    Also the fit of the Basso which was fair needs to tuning. Shorter
    stem, narrower handlebars and higher levers. Let's hpe that this all
    helps.

    Basso Loto has classic horizontal road ends.
    http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/basmia2.jpg

    Use steel (internal cam) skewers; aluminum (open cam) skewers will
    inherently slip.




    You are absolutely right. Campagnolo quick releases never had the
    problems that these aluminum quick releases do. I returned tol my two
    pills of leveteracitam last night rather than 2 1/2 and woke up this
    morning almost normal again.I will contact my neurologist today and let
    him kno3w what happened to me yesterday.

    By the way, I was talking to Robinson about that problem on Wednesday and
    he had the same fix I did - Use Campy or Shimano old style quick releases that would actually cam-lock down on the Campy horizontal dropouts. This business about saving every gram possible by making aluminum quick
    releases is bunkers.

    That well known foible of open-cam skewers has been
    discussed repeatedly here on RBT for twenty years or more.

    The open cam design is adequate for vertical ends. They are
    a lot cheaper to produce and lighter overall, just not
    compatible with horizontal ends.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    am@yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

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