Went out for my morning ride. Just before a rather steep hill changed
down and I heard a clump and the chain jammed.
I looked back and half of my rear derailleur was sitting on the
asphalt.
OMG, I thought to myself, this is almost as embarrassing as a crank
arm falling off. Then faced the "walk of shame" home.
Note, I scrub chain/jockey wheels/sprockets with water and detergent
every 200 Km. Was almost due for a new clean. Gear change was
absolutely smooth until the incident. HI and LOW screws perfect, no
way the chain came off and "fell into the spokes".
Note I managed to rip a spoke clear out of the wheel with the
breakage. What fell into the spokes was half the derailleur. I suppose that'll mean a new wheel too
:(
<https://www.sendspace.com/filegroup/v/qdHDWfYEJvo99L3/MhFp6hhZL5Z8ugxHfSuN/uTo4>
The "cleaned" in the filename is because I cleaned the EXIF metadata,
not the parts after the incident....
So "wtf" happened, what did I do wrong and how can I prevent it from happening again?
TIA
Shadow <Sh@dow.br> wrote:
Went out for my morning ride. Just before a rather steep hill changed
down and I heard a clump and the chain jammed.
I looked back and half of my rear derailleur was sitting on the
asphalt.
OMG, I thought to myself, this is almost as embarrassing as a crank
arm falling off. Then faced the "walk of shame" home.
Note, I scrub chain/jockey wheels/sprockets with water and detergent
every 200 Km. Was almost due for a new clean. Gear change was
absolutely smooth until the incident. HI and LOW screws perfect, no
way the chain came off and "fell into the spokes".
Note I managed to rip a spoke clear out of the wheel with the
breakage. What fell into the spokes was half the derailleur. I suppose
that'll mean a new wheel too
:(
<https://www.sendspace.com/filegroup/v/qdHDWfYEJvo99L3/MhFp6hhZL5Z8ugxHfSuN/uTo4>
The "cleaned" in the filename is because I cleaned the EXIF metadata,
not the parts after the incident....
So "wtf" happened, what did I do wrong and how can I prevent it from
happening again?
TIA
Did the derailleur come apart due to impact with wheel/cassette or a
failure and then do so?
My old commute bike, had a rear mech fail where the cage and parallel meet >apparently was glued in place? Was an Alivio so broadly similar to the >Tourney I think from memory, Cues which I replaced it with is substantially >more heavily built like the MTB mechs as to if it will last any longer?
The Alivio lasted 9 years and 19,000 miles so probably got my moneys worth!
Mind talking of Andrew I expressed surprise that front mechs could wear >though! My Gravel bike front mech (Sora) had to be replaced due to that!
Only just shy of 12,000 and 7ish years old so definitely sub par, though
have replaced like with like and didnt really seem any reason to match the >rest of the bike ie GRX mostly with Tiagra shifters.
Okay (at least in uk) neither of Tourney/Alivio/Sora/Cues are particularly >expensive being 30ish for a derailleur.
Roger Merriman
Shadow <Sh@dow.br> wrote:
Went out for my morning ride. Just before a rather steep hill changed
down and I heard a clump and the chain jammed.
I looked back and half of my rear derailleur was sitting on the
asphalt.
OMG, I thought to myself, this is almost as embarrassing as a crank
arm falling off. Then faced the "walk of shame" home.
Note, I scrub chain/jockey wheels/sprockets with water and detergent
every 200 Km. Was almost due for a new clean. Gear change was
absolutely smooth until the incident. HI and LOW screws perfect, no
way the chain came off and "fell into the spokes".
Note I managed to rip a spoke clear out of the wheel with the
breakage. What fell into the spokes was half the derailleur. I suppose
that'll mean a new wheel too
:(
<https://www.sendspace.com/filegroup/v/qdHDWfYEJvo99L3/MhFp6hhZL5Z8ugxHfSuN/uTo4>
The "cleaned" in the filename is because I cleaned the EXIF metadata,
not the parts after the incident....
So "wtf" happened, what did I do wrong and how can I prevent it from
happening again?
TIA
Did the derailleur come apart due to impact with wheel/cassette or a
failure and then do so?
My old commute bike, had a rear mech fail where the cage and parallel meet apparently was glued in place? Was an Alivio so broadly similar to the Tourney I think from memory, Cues which I replaced it with is substantially more heavily built like the MTB mech’s as to if it will last any longer?
The Alivio lasted 9 years and 19,000 miles so probably got my moneys worth!
Mind talking of Andrew I expressed surprise that front mech’s could wear though! My Gravel bike front mech (Sora) had to be replaced due to that!
Only just shy of 12,000 and 7ish years old so definitely sub par, though
have replaced like with like and didn’t really seem any reason to match the rest of the bike ie GRX mostly with Tiagra shifters.
Okay (at least in uk) neither of Tourney/Alivio/Sora/Cues are particularly expensive being £30ish for a derailleur.
Roger Merriman
On 22 Feb 2025 22:21:58 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:Those Shimano prices are comparable to US rates:
Shadow <Sh@dow.br> wrote:
Went out for my morning ride. Just before a rather steep hill changed
down and I heard a clump and the chain jammed.
I looked back and half of my rear derailleur was sitting on the
asphalt.
OMG, I thought to myself, this is almost as embarrassing as a crank
arm falling off. Then faced the "walk of shame" home.
Note, I scrub chain/jockey wheels/sprockets with water and detergent
every 200 Km. Was almost due for a new clean. Gear change was
absolutely smooth until the incident. HI and LOW screws perfect, no
way the chain came off and "fell into the spokes".
Note I managed to rip a spoke clear out of the wheel with the
breakage. What fell into the spokes was half the derailleur. I suppose
that'll mean a new wheel too
:(
<https://www.sendspace.com/filegroup/v/qdHDWfYEJvo99L3/MhFp6hhZL5Z8ugxHfSuN/uTo4>
The "cleaned" in the filename is because I cleaned the EXIF metadata,
not the parts after the incident....
So "wtf" happened, what did I do wrong and how can I prevent it from
happening again?
TIA
Did the derailleur come apart due to impact with wheel/cassette or a
failure and then do so?
My old commute bike, had a rear mech fail where the cage and parallel meet >> apparently was glued in place? Was an Alivio so broadly similar to the
Tourney I think from memory, Cues which I replaced it with is substantially >> more heavily built like the MTB mech’s as to if it will last any longer? >>
The Alivio lasted 9 years and 19,000 miles so probably got my moneys worth! >>
Mind talking of Andrew I expressed surprise that front mech’s could wear >> though! My Gravel bike front mech (Sora) had to be replaced due to that!
Only just shy of 12,000 and 7ish years old so definitely sub par, though
have replaced like with like and didn’t really seem any reason to match the
rest of the bike ie GRX mostly with Tiagra shifters.
Okay (at least in uk) neither of Tourney/Alivio/Sora/Cues are particularly >> expensive being £30ish for a derailleur.
Roger Merriman
Thanks for the reply. The gear had around 8000 Km on it, and I
replaced the jockey wheels last year the cogs were looking like spikes
they were so worn.
I have no idea what caused the breakage. There was a lot of
debris on the road, but I was only doing around 15Km/h, possible but
not likely I managed to pick up a twig and it flew into the spokes.
It felt like it just decided to break..... I would have
expected it to show some signs of failure beforehand.
The bike has 8 gears at the back. The derailleur that broke
was a RD-TX35, designed for 7 gears. Maybe that forced it.
I can get a Shimano Tourney TY300 cheap, around US$ 15, or an
Altus RD-M310L for around US$ 35. (since salaries, pensions etc in
Brasil are roughly 1/10 of British, multiply by 10 to get an idea of
relative prices).
PS I have no idea if it's short, long, over under etc. I have
the only Shimano gear in town. Nothing to compare it to. People here
use "Sunrun" and "Yamada" which sell for around US$ 4.
[]'s
On 22 Feb 2025 22:21:58 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Shadow <Sh@dow.br> wrote:
Went out for my morning ride. Just before a rather steep hill changed
down and I heard a clump and the chain jammed.
I looked back and half of my rear derailleur was sitting on the
asphalt.
OMG, I thought to myself, this is almost as embarrassing as a crank
arm falling off. Then faced the "walk of shame" home.
Note, I scrub chain/jockey wheels/sprockets with water and detergent
every 200 Km. Was almost due for a new clean. Gear change was
absolutely smooth until the incident. HI and LOW screws perfect, no
way the chain came off and "fell into the spokes".
Note I managed to rip a spoke clear out of the wheel with the
breakage. What fell into the spokes was half the derailleur. I suppose
that'll mean a new wheel too
:(
<https://www.sendspace.com/filegroup/v/qdHDWfYEJvo99L3/MhFp6hhZL5Z8ugxHfSuN/uTo4>
The "cleaned" in the filename is because I cleaned the EXIF metadata,
not the parts after the incident....
So "wtf" happened, what did I do wrong and how can I prevent it from
happening again?
TIA
Did the derailleur come apart due to impact with wheel/cassette or a
failure and then do so?
My old commute bike, had a rear mech fail where the cage and parallel meet >> apparently was glued in place? Was an Alivio so broadly similar to the
Tourney I think from memory, Cues which I replaced it with is substantially >> more heavily built like the MTB mechs as to if it will last any longer?
The Alivio lasted 9 years and 19,000 miles so probably got my moneys worth! >>
Mind talking of Andrew I expressed surprise that front mechs could wear
though! My Gravel bike front mech (Sora) had to be replaced due to that!
Only just shy of 12,000 and 7ish years old so definitely sub par, though
have replaced like with like and didnt really seem any reason to match the >> rest of the bike ie GRX mostly with Tiagra shifters.
Okay (at least in uk) neither of Tourney/Alivio/Sora/Cues are particularly >> expensive being £30ish for a derailleur.
Roger Merriman
Thanks for the reply. The gear had around 8000 Km on it, and I
replaced the jockey wheels last year the cogs were looking like spikes
they were so worn.
I have no idea what caused the breakage. There was a lot of
debris on the road, but I was only doing around 15Km/h, possible but
not likely I managed to pick up a twig and it flew into the spokes.
It felt like it just decided to break..... I would have
expected it to show some signs of failure beforehand.
The bike has 8 gears at the back. The derailleur that broke
was a RD-TX35, designed for 7 gears. Maybe that forced it.
I can get a Shimano Tourney TY300 cheap, around US$ 15, or an
Altus RD-M310L for around US$ 35. (since salaries, pensions etc in
Brasil are roughly 1/10 of British, multiply by 10 to get an idea of
relative prices).
PS I have no idea if it's short, long, over under etc. I haveHow cross compatible are they? None of the above mech’s are particularly sophisticated though should be durable enough, ie they don’t have some of
the only Shimano gear in town. Nothing to compare it to. People here
use "Sunrun" and "Yamada" which sell for around US$ 4.
[]'s
On 2/23/2025 5:12 AM, Shadow wrote:
On 22 Feb 2025 22:21:58 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:Those Shimano prices are comparable to US rates:
Shadow <Sh@dow.br> wrote:
Went out for my morning ride. Just before a rather steep hill changed
down and I heard a clump and the chain jammed.
I looked back and half of my rear derailleur was sitting on the
asphalt.
OMG, I thought to myself, this is almost as embarrassing as a crank
arm falling off. Then faced the "walk of shame" home.
Note, I scrub chain/jockey wheels/sprockets with water and detergent
every 200 Km. Was almost due for a new clean. Gear change was
absolutely smooth until the incident. HI and LOW screws perfect, no
way the chain came off and "fell into the spokes".
Note I managed to rip a spoke clear out of the wheel with the
breakage. What fell into the spokes was half the derailleur. I suppose >>>> that'll mean a new wheel too
:(
<https://www.sendspace.com/filegroup/v/qdHDWfYEJvo99L3/MhFp6hhZL5Z8ugxHfSuN/uTo4>
The "cleaned" in the filename is because I cleaned the EXIF metadata,
not the parts after the incident....
So "wtf" happened, what did I do wrong and how can I prevent it from
happening again?
TIA
Did the derailleur come apart due to impact with wheel/cassette or a
failure and then do so?
My old commute bike, had a rear mech fail where the cage and parallel meet >>> apparently was glued in place? Was an Alivio so broadly similar to the
Tourney I think from memory, Cues which I replaced it with is substantially >>> more heavily built like the MTB mechs as to if it will last any longer? >>>
The Alivio lasted 9 years and 19,000 miles so probably got my moneys worth! >>>
Mind talking of Andrew I expressed surprise that front mechs could wear >>> though! My Gravel bike front mech (Sora) had to be replaced due to that! >>> Only just shy of 12,000 and 7ish years old so definitely sub par, though >>> have replaced like with like and didnt really seem any reason to match the >>> rest of the bike ie GRX mostly with Tiagra shifters.
Okay (at least in uk) neither of Tourney/Alivio/Sora/Cues are particularly >>> expensive being 30ish for a derailleur.
Roger Merriman
Thanks for the reply. The gear had around 8000 Km on it, and I
replaced the jockey wheels last year the cogs were looking like spikes
they were so worn.
I have no idea what caused the breakage. There was a lot of
debris on the road, but I was only doing around 15Km/h, possible but
not likely I managed to pick up a twig and it flew into the spokes.
It felt like it just decided to break..... I would have
expected it to show some signs of failure beforehand.
The bike has 8 gears at the back. The derailleur that broke
was a RD-TX35, designed for 7 gears. Maybe that forced it.
I can get a Shimano Tourney TY300 cheap, around US$ 15, or an
Altus RD-M310L for around US$ 35. (since salaries, pensions etc in
Brasil are roughly 1/10 of British, multiply by 10 to get an idea of
relative prices).
PS I have no idea if it's short, long, over under etc. I have
the only Shimano gear in town. Nothing to compare it to. People here
use "Sunrun" and "Yamada" which sell for around US$ 4.
[]'s
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-TY300-Derailleur-Standard/dp/B01K5C6F1U?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80264466539886&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863993594891&psc=1
not much over currently lowest price sources here.
https://cambriabike.com/products/shimano-tourney-ty300-6-7-spd-mtb-rear-derailleur?variant=41153396179126&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&scid=scbplpGM061319-31&sc_intid=GM061319-31
Given that it was well used, could well have been just
overall wear. You set the low gear limit back when it was
less worn, but now all the pins and pivots are sloppy. Only
takes a couple of millimeters more travel to go from normal
clearance to engaged on a spoke.
Shadow <Sh@dow.br> wrote:
On 22 Feb 2025 22:21:58 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Shadow <Sh@dow.br> wrote:
Went out for my morning ride. Just before a rather steep hill changed
down and I heard a clump and the chain jammed.
I looked back and half of my rear derailleur was sitting on the
asphalt.
OMG, I thought to myself, this is almost as embarrassing as a crank
arm falling off. Then faced the "walk of shame" home.
Note, I scrub chain/jockey wheels/sprockets with water and detergent
every 200 Km. Was almost due for a new clean. Gear change was
absolutely smooth until the incident. HI and LOW screws perfect, no
way the chain came off and "fell into the spokes".
Note I managed to rip a spoke clear out of the wheel with the
breakage. What fell into the spokes was half the derailleur. I suppose >>>> that'll mean a new wheel too
:(
<https://www.sendspace.com/filegroup/v/qdHDWfYEJvo99L3/MhFp6hhZL5Z8ugxHfSuN/uTo4>
The "cleaned" in the filename is because I cleaned the EXIF metadata,
not the parts after the incident....
So "wtf" happened, what did I do wrong and how can I prevent it from
happening again?
TIA
Did the derailleur come apart due to impact with wheel/cassette or a
failure and then do so?
My old commute bike, had a rear mech fail where the cage and parallel meet >>> apparently was glued in place? Was an Alivio so broadly similar to the
Tourney I think from memory, Cues which I replaced it with is substantially >>> more heavily built like the MTB mechs as to if it will last any longer? >>>
The Alivio lasted 9 years and 19,000 miles so probably got my moneys worth! >>>
Mind talking of Andrew I expressed surprise that front mechs could wear >>> though! My Gravel bike front mech (Sora) had to be replaced due to that! >>> Only just shy of 12,000 and 7ish years old so definitely sub par, though >>> have replaced like with like and didnt really seem any reason to match the
rest of the bike ie GRX mostly with Tiagra shifters.
Okay (at least in uk) neither of Tourney/Alivio/Sora/Cues are particularly >>> expensive being £30ish for a derailleur.
Roger Merriman
Thanks for the reply. The gear had around 8000 Km on it, and I
replaced the jockey wheels last year the cogs were looking like spikes
they were so worn.
I have no idea what caused the breakage. There was a lot of
debris on the road, but I was only doing around 15Km/h, possible but
not likely I managed to pick up a twig and it flew into the spokes.
It felt like it just decided to break..... I would have
expected it to show some signs of failure beforehand.
The bike has 8 gears at the back. The derailleur that broke
was a RD-TX35, designed for 7 gears. Maybe that forced it.
As long as the shifters have same pull, derailleurs are speed agnostic to
the best of my knowledge, see chain rings as well for most part at least.
On the whole even what are budget group-sets should soak up lots of miles,
I had Tourney on the CX bike I owned few years back, was essentially a
proto Gravel bike as a number of CX bikes at the time, ie never intended to be raced but to hack around the woods and what not!
Had 3/7 Tourney <https://bike.shimano.com/products/components/pdp.P-RD-A070.html>
Looks to be more budget than yours and much less teeth capacity, it’s gearing range and gaps were somewhat annoying. But it certainly worked
fine, I didn’t like the Tourney shifters much with the thumb shifters.
I can get a Shimano Tourney TY300 cheap, around US$ 15, or anThe Altus as far as I can see, no clutch etc would considering the price difference particularly including the multiplication would appear to offer little value over the Tourney.
Altus RD-M310L for around US$ 35. (since salaries, pensions etc in
Brasil are roughly 1/10 of British, multiply by 10 to get an idea of
relative prices).
More modern Altus rear mech’s do have some more features or as and when Cues reaches you and the cost is appropriate sure yes potentially worth the upgrade.
PS I have no idea if it's short, long, over under etc. I haveHow cross compatible are they? None of the above mech’s are particularly sophisticated though should be durable enough, ie they don’t have some of the MTB technology such as Clutch and so on, they are “just” a rear mech.
the only Shimano gear in town. Nothing to compare it to. People here
use "Sunrun" and "Yamada" which sell for around US$ 4.
[]'s
Kinda depends if “Sunrun/Yamada” are made from cheese and disintegrated upon use?
Roger Merriman
On 2/23/2025 5:12 AM, Shadow wrote:
On 22 Feb 2025 22:21:58 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:Those Shimano prices are comparable to US rates:
Shadow <Sh@dow.br> wrote:
Went out for my morning ride. Just before a rather steep hill changed
down and I heard a clump and the chain jammed.
I looked back and half of my rear derailleur was sitting on the
asphalt.
OMG, I thought to myself, this is almost as embarrassing as a crank
arm falling off. Then faced the "walk of shame" home.
Note, I scrub chain/jockey wheels/sprockets with water and detergent
every 200 Km. Was almost due for a new clean. Gear change was
absolutely smooth until the incident. HI and LOW screws perfect, no
way the chain came off and "fell into the spokes".
Note I managed to rip a spoke clear out of the wheel with the
breakage. What fell into the spokes was half the derailleur. I suppose >>>> that'll mean a new wheel too
:(
<https://www.sendspace.com/filegroup/v/qdHDWfYEJvo99L3/MhFp6hhZL5Z8ugxHfSuN/uTo4>
The "cleaned" in the filename is because I cleaned the EXIF metadata,
not the parts after the incident....
So "wtf" happened, what did I do wrong and how can I prevent it from
happening again?
TIA
Did the derailleur come apart due to impact with wheel/cassette or a
failure and then do so?
My old commute bike, had a rear mech fail where the cage and parallel meet >>> apparently was glued in place? Was an Alivio so broadly similar to the
Tourney I think from memory, Cues which I replaced it with is substantially >>> more heavily built like the MTB mech’s as to if it will last any longer? >>>
The Alivio lasted 9 years and 19,000 miles so probably got my moneys worth! >>>
Mind talking of Andrew I expressed surprise that front mech’s could wear >>> though! My Gravel bike front mech (Sora) had to be replaced due to that! >>> Only just shy of 12,000 and 7ish years old so definitely sub par, though >>> have replaced like with like and didn’t really seem any reason to match the
rest of the bike ie GRX mostly with Tiagra shifters.
Okay (at least in uk) neither of Tourney/Alivio/Sora/Cues are particularly >>> expensive being £30ish for a derailleur.
Roger Merriman
Thanks for the reply. The gear had around 8000 Km on it, and I
replaced the jockey wheels last year the cogs were looking like spikes
they were so worn.
I have no idea what caused the breakage. There was a lot of
debris on the road, but I was only doing around 15Km/h, possible but
not likely I managed to pick up a twig and it flew into the spokes.
It felt like it just decided to break..... I would have
expected it to show some signs of failure beforehand.
The bike has 8 gears at the back. The derailleur that broke
was a RD-TX35, designed for 7 gears. Maybe that forced it.
I can get a Shimano Tourney TY300 cheap, around US$ 15, or an
Altus RD-M310L for around US$ 35. (since salaries, pensions etc in
Brasil are roughly 1/10 of British, multiply by 10 to get an idea of
relative prices).
PS I have no idea if it's short, long, over under etc. I have
the only Shimano gear in town. Nothing to compare it to. People here
use "Sunrun" and "Yamada" which sell for around US$ 4.
[]'s
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-TY300-Derailleur-Standard/dp/B01K5C6F1U?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80264466539886&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583863993594891&psc=1
not much over currently lowest price sources here.
https://cambriabike.com/products/shimano-tourney-ty300-6-7-spd-mtb-rear-derailleur?variant=41153396179126&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&scid=scbplpGM061319-31&sc_intid=GM061319-31
Given that it was well used, could well have been just
overall wear. You set the low gear limit back when it was
less worn, but now all the pins and pivots are sloppy. Only
takes a couple of millimeters more travel to go from normal
clearance to engaged on a spoke.
The bike has 8 gears at the back. The derailleur that brokeThose Shimano prices are comparable to US rates:
was a RD-TX35, designed for 7 gears. Maybe that forced it.
I can get a Shimano Tourney TY300 cheap, around US$ 15, or an
Altus RD-M310L for around US$ 35. (since salaries, pensions etc in
Brasil are roughly 1/10 of British, multiply by 10 to get an idea of
relative prices).
PS I have no idea if it's short, long, over under etc. I have
the only Shimano gear in town. Nothing to compare it to. People here
use "Sunrun" and "Yamada" which sell for around US$ 4.
[]'s
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-TY300-Derailleur-Standard/dp/B01K5C6F1U
not much over currently lowest price sources here.
https://cambriabike.com/products/shimano-tourney-ty300-6-7-spd-mtb-rear-derailleur?variant=41153396179126
Given that it was well used, could well have been just
overall wear. You set the low gear limit back when it was
less worn, but now all the pins and pivots are sloppy. Only
takes a couple of millimeters more travel to go from normal
clearance to engaged on a spoke.
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 09:28:41 -0600, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Given that it was well used, could well have been just
overall wear. You set the low gear limit back when it was
less worn, but now all the pins and pivots are sloppy. Only
takes a couple of millimeters more travel to go from normal
clearance to engaged on a spoke.
Thanks for that expert opinion. Makes me feel good about having
changed out my old derailleur at just under 35,800 miles.
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 09:28:41 -0600, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
The bike has 8 gears at the back. The derailleur that brokeThose Shimano prices are comparable to US rates:
was a RD-TX35, designed for 7 gears. Maybe that forced it.
I can get a Shimano Tourney TY300 cheap, around US$ 15, or an
Altus RD-M310L for around US$ 35. (since salaries, pensions etc in
Brasil are roughly 1/10 of British, multiply by 10 to get an idea of
relative prices).
PS I have no idea if it's short, long, over under etc. I have
the only Shimano gear in town. Nothing to compare it to. People here
use "Sunrun" and "Yamada" which sell for around US$ 4.
[]'s
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-TY300-Derailleur-Standard/dp/B01K5C6F1U
LOL .$14.96
$38.70 Shipping & Import Fees Deposit to Brazil.
Delivery Thursday, March 20
But yes, prices are comparable.
The Shimano Tourney TY300 Rear Derailleur is available in
"standard" and "long" cages(RD-TY300 and RD-TY300-SGS). How do I
figure out which one would be a good replacement? I'd guess
"standard", because there is nothing saying "long" on mine.
not much over currently lowest price sources here.
https://cambriabike.com/products/shimano-tourney-ty300-6-7-spd-mtb-rear-derailleur?variant=41153396179126
Given that it was well used, could well have been just
overall wear. You set the low gear limit back when it was
less worn, but now all the pins and pivots are sloppy. Only
takes a couple of millimeters more travel to go from normal
clearance to engaged on a spoke.
I gave it a thorough clean when I replaced the jockey wheels
last year. So I had to re-set the LOW and HI screws. It was pretty
much perfect. Also I was not changing down to the lowest gear when it
broke, it was to the last-but-one. It shouldn't have been anywhere
near the spokes.
So it was probably wear or something my front wheel picked up
and flew back.
I'm more annoyed about the wheel. The spoke ripped a hole when
it came out. A small hole. I don't suppose there is a fix for that?
[]'s
On 2/23/2025 11:17 AM, Shadow wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 10:42:10 -0500, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 09:28:41 -0600, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Given that it was well used, could well have been just
overall wear. You set the low gear limit back when it was
less worn, but now all the pins and pivots are sloppy. Only
takes a couple of millimeters more travel to go from normal
clearance to engaged on a spoke.
Thanks for that expert opinion. Makes me feel good about having
changed out my old derailleur at just under 35,800 miles.
Thar's 57000 kilometers. Don't think many people have ridden
that far in their lives....
Mine had quite definite signs of wear, though nothing was
loose.
[]'s
Any other well worn bicycles nearby?
Hold the bottom pulley in your fingers and move it
laterally. Note there's play at the pivot between cage and
body and also all four body pivots besides the top spring
pivot. That will be minimal on new units but excessive on
well used derailleurs.
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 10:42:10 -0500, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 09:28:41 -0600, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Given that it was well used, could well have been just
overall wear. You set the low gear limit back when it was
less worn, but now all the pins and pivots are sloppy. Only
takes a couple of millimeters more travel to go from normal
clearance to engaged on a spoke.
Thanks for that expert opinion. Makes me feel good about having
changed out my old derailleur at just under 35,800 miles.
Thar's 57000 kilometers. Don't think many people have ridden
that far in their lives....
Mine had quite definite signs of wear, though nothing was
loose.
[]'s
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 11:30:43 -0600, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 2/23/2025 11:17 AM, Shadow wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 10:42:10 -0500, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 09:28:41 -0600, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Given that it was well used, could well have been just
overall wear. You set the low gear limit back when it was
less worn, but now all the pins and pivots are sloppy. Only
takes a couple of millimeters more travel to go from normal
clearance to engaged on a spoke.
Thanks for that expert opinion. Makes me feel good about having
changed out my old derailleur at just under 35,800 miles.
Thar's 57000 kilometers. Don't think many people have ridden
that far in their lives....
Mine had quite definite signs of wear, though nothing was
loose.
[]'s
Any other well worn bicycles nearby?
Hold the bottom pulley in your fingers and move it
laterally. Note there's play at the pivot between cage and
body and also all four body pivots besides the top spring
pivot. That will be minimal on new units but excessive on
well used derailleurs.
My son's Monark has a Shimano RD. That's quite stiff to move
as you described. It's at least 20 years old and has been sitting in a
corner for ages so it might be just dust and rust. Dates are complete
guesses ...
My right arm is not working. I had a compete rupture of my
supraspinal tendon when I fell last year. I went to an orthopedic
surgeon, but he said "I wasn't worth operating on" because of my age.
"It'll be at least 30 months of physiotherapy and you might not last
that long".
The joys of aging.
I'll ask my maid to carry the bike onto my stand so I can
check it tomorrow. Can't lift it myself.
My only other bike is the 1976 Caloi, and that does not have
variable gears.
[]'s
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 10:42:10 -0500, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 09:28:41 -0600, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Given that it was well used, could well have been just
overall wear. You set the low gear limit back when it was
less worn, but now all the pins and pivots are sloppy. Only
takes a couple of millimeters more travel to go from normal
clearance to engaged on a spoke.
Thanks for that expert opinion. Makes me feel good about having
changed out my old derailleur at just under 35,800 miles.
Thar's 57000 kilometers. Don't think many people have ridden
that far in their lives....
Mine had quite definite signs of wear, though nothing was
loose.
[]'s
On 2/23/2025 11:56 AM, Shadow wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 11:30:43 -0600, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 2/23/2025 11:17 AM, Shadow wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 10:42:10 -0500, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 09:28:41 -0600, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
Given that it was well used, could well have been just
overall wear. You set the low gear limit back when it was
less worn, but now all the pins and pivots are sloppy. Only
takes a couple of millimeters more travel to go from normal
clearance to engaged on a spoke.
Thanks for that expert opinion. Makes me feel good about having
changed out my old derailleur at just under 35,800 miles.
Thar's 57000 kilometers. Don't think many people have ridden
that far in their lives....
Mine had quite definite signs of wear, though nothing was
loose.
[]'s
Any other well worn bicycles nearby?
Hold the bottom pulley in your fingers and move it
laterally. Note there's play at the pivot between cage and
body and also all four body pivots besides the top spring
pivot. That will be minimal on new units but excessive on
well used derailleurs.
My son's Monark has a Shimano RD. That's quite stiff to move
as you described. It's at least 20 years old and has been sitting in a
corner for ages so it might be just dust and rust. Dates are complete
guesses ...
My right arm is not working. I had a compete rupture of my
supraspinal tendon when I fell last year. I went to an orthopedic
surgeon, but he said "I wasn't worth operating on" because of my age.
"It'll be at least 30 months of physiotherapy and you might not last
that long".
The joys of aging.
I'll ask my maid to carry the bike onto my stand so I can
check it tomorrow. Can't lift it myself.
My only other bike is the 1976 Caloi, and that does not have
variable gears.
[]'s
Ouch.
Having suffered similar (but not that) best wishes on healing.
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 10:42:10 -0500, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 09:28:41 -0600, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Given that it was well used, could well have been just
overall wear. You set the low gear limit back when it was
less worn, but now all the pins and pivots are sloppy. Only
takes a couple of millimeters more travel to go from normal
clearance to engaged on a spoke.
Thanks for that expert opinion. Makes me feel good about having
changed out my old derailleur at just under 35,800 miles.
Thar's 57000 kilometers. Don't think many people have ridden
that far in their lives....
Mine had quite definite signs of wear, though nothing was
loose.
[]'s
On 2/23/2025 12:27 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/23/2025 11:07 AM, Shadow wrote:I've done that with success. No subsequent problems.
I'm more annoyed about the wheel. The spoke ripped a hole when
it came out. A small hole. I don't suppose there is a fix for that?
[]'s
Depending on your own standards, yes it's possible to just add a washer
under the head of the nipple.
| Sysop: | Keyop |
|---|---|
| Location: | Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK |
| Users: | 546 |
| Nodes: | 16 (2 / 14) |
| Uptime: | 01:43:16 |
| Calls: | 10,387 |
| Calls today: | 2 |
| Files: | 14,061 |
| Messages: | 6,416,749 |