• wtf chain ring bolts

    From Catrike Ryder@21:1/5 to All on Wed Mar 5 16:08:18 2025
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the chain rings and
    the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I didn't want to
    disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not find a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.

    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From AMuzi@21:1/5 to Catrike Ryder on Wed Mar 5 16:06:10 2025
    On 3/5/2025 3:08 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the chain rings and
    the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I didn't want to disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not find a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.

    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman

    News to me; 5-arm 110mm chainring bolts are a universal
    commodity AFAIK.

    With a magnifier, see if they are just broached poorly or
    maybe if they are Torx. If you succumbed to the bad idea of
    an aluminum chainring bolt that's very possible.


    --
    Andrew Muzi
    am@yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Catrike Ryder@21:1/5 to AMuzi on Wed Mar 5 18:19:17 2025
    On Wed, 5 Mar 2025 16:06:10 -0600, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:

    On 3/5/2025 3:08 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the chain rings and
    the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I didn't want to
    disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not find a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.

    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman

    News to me; 5-arm 110mm chainring bolts are a universal
    commodity AFAIK.

    With a magnifier, see if they are just broached poorly or
    maybe if they are Torx. If you succumbed to the bad idea of
    an aluminum chainring bolt that's very possible.

    Nope, not aluminum and not torx. A closer look shows they they are
    very uneven, not even hex slots. The set included 12mm and 8.5mm bolts
    and they take a 5MM allen. The inside wall further up on the 16mm is
    smooth and round, so I think what happened is that the 5mm hex never
    got done. At any rate, they're in the trash. New ones are coming from
    a USA based bike shop, not Ebay.

    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From zen cycle@21:1/5 to AMuzi on Thu Mar 6 06:11:27 2025
    On 3/5/2025 5:06 PM, AMuzi wrote:
    On 3/5/2025 3:08 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the chain rings and
    the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I didn't want to
    disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not find a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.

    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman

    News to me; 5-arm 110mm chainring bolts are a universal commodity AFAIK.

    With a magnifier, see if they are just broached poorly or maybe if they
    are Torx.  If you succumbed to the bad idea of an aluminum chainring
    bolt that's very possible.

    I have a set that are torx, and it's a known "problem"

    https://www.reddit.com/r/cycling/comments/6drndl/shimano_chainring_bolts_t30_torx_why/?rdt=44490

    If the bolts have crud built up and the light isn't really good, they
    can look like Allen,

    Just make sure whether they're Imperial or Metric :)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Roger Merriman@21:1/5 to zen cycle on Thu Mar 6 12:59:35 2025
    zen cycle <funkmasterxx@hotmail.com> wrote:
    On 3/5/2025 5:06 PM, AMuzi wrote:
    On 3/5/2025 3:08 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the chain rings and
    the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I didn't want to
    disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not find a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.

    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman

    News to me; 5-arm 110mm chainring bolts are a universal commodity AFAIK.

    With a magnifier, see if they are just broached poorly or maybe if they
    are Torx.  If you succumbed to the bad idea of an aluminum chainring
    bolt that's very possible.

    I have a set that are torx, and it's a known "problem"

    https://www.reddit.com/r/cycling/comments/6drndl/shimano_chainring_bolts_t30_torx_why/?rdt=44490

    If the bolts have crud built up and the light isn't really good, they
    can look like Allen,

    Just make sure whether they're Imperial or Metric :)


    Talking of standards, my dad had loads of fun, at Halfords which is car and bike chain stores, getting some new tyres for the New Hudson bike which is
    old much abused bike and has 26inch tyres but not the “normal” ones which resulted in lots of head scratching by Halfords, I think there are 3
    separate similar sized but different sizes with out checking the bible aka Sheldon Browns site!

    Roger Merriman

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From AMuzi@21:1/5 to zen cycle on Thu Mar 6 08:51:07 2025
    On 3/6/2025 5:11 AM, zen cycle wrote:
    On 3/5/2025 5:06 PM, AMuzi wrote:
    On 3/5/2025 3:08 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the
    chain rings and
    the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I
    didn't want to
    disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex
    deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not find
    a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard
    and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like
    they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.

    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman

    News to me; 5-arm 110mm chainring bolts are a universal
    commodity AFAIK.

    With a magnifier, see if they are just broached poorly or
    maybe if they are Torx.  If you succumbed to the bad idea
    of an aluminum chainring bolt that's very possible.

    I have a set that are torx, and it's a known "problem"

    https://www.reddit.com/r/cycling/comments/6drndl/ shimano_chainring_bolts_t30_torx_why/?rdt=44490

    If the bolts have crud built up and the light isn't really
    good, they can look like Allen,

    Just make sure whether they're Imperial or Metric :)

    Imperial are a distinct rarity here in USA ( I went all over
    hell to find a WW allen for my custom Hetchins long ago).

    More common are SAE, which outnumber, in fasteners and
    tools, metric to some great degree.

    That said, chainring bolts are a minuscule subset of
    fasteners and, as a standard consumer product, not-metric
    are virtually unknown (or at least I have never seen one.
    Not one.)

    It did actually turn out to be defective broaching which
    makes more sense than any other variant.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    am@yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Zen Cycle@21:1/5 to AMuzi on Thu Mar 6 09:58:16 2025
    On 3/6/2025 9:51 AM, AMuzi wrote:
    On 3/6/2025 5:11 AM, zen cycle wrote:
    On 3/5/2025 5:06 PM, AMuzi wrote:
    On 3/5/2025 3:08 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the chain rings and
    the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I didn't want to
    disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not find a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.

    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman

    News to me; 5-arm 110mm chainring bolts are a universal commodity AFAIK. >>>
    With a magnifier, see if they are just broached poorly or maybe if
    they are Torx.  If you succumbed to the bad idea of an aluminum
    chainring bolt that's very possible.

    I have a set that are torx, and it's a known "problem"

    https://www.reddit.com/r/cycling/comments/6drndl/
    shimano_chainring_bolts_t30_torx_why/?rdt=44490

    If the bolts have crud built up and the light isn't really good, they
    can look like Allen,

    Just make sure whether they're Imperial or Metric :)

    Imperial are a distinct rarity here in USA ( I went all over hell to
    find a WW allen for my custom Hetchins long ago).

    More common are SAE, which outnumber, in fasteners and tools, metric to
    some great degree.

    That said, chainring bolts are a minuscule subset of fasteners and, as a standard consumer product, not-metric are virtually unknown (or at least
    I have never seen one. Not one.)

    It did actually turn out to be defective broaching which makes more
    sense than any other variant.


    um....It was a joke about metric vs imperial torx, Andrew

    --
    Add xx to reply

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From AMuzi@21:1/5 to Roger Merriman on Thu Mar 6 09:08:29 2025
    On 3/6/2025 6:59 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
    zen cycle <funkmasterxx@hotmail.com> wrote:
    On 3/5/2025 5:06 PM, AMuzi wrote:
    On 3/5/2025 3:08 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the chain rings and
    the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I didn't want to
    disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not find a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.

    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman

    News to me; 5-arm 110mm chainring bolts are a universal commodity AFAIK. >>>
    With a magnifier, see if they are just broached poorly or maybe if they
    are Torx.  If you succumbed to the bad idea of an aluminum chainring
    bolt that's very possible.

    I have a set that are torx, and it's a known "problem"

    https://www.reddit.com/r/cycling/comments/6drndl/shimano_chainring_bolts_t30_torx_why/?rdt=44490

    If the bolts have crud built up and the light isn't really good, they
    can look like Allen,

    Just make sure whether they're Imperial or Metric :)


    Talking of standards, my dad had loads of fun, at Halfords which is car and bike chain stores, getting some new tyres for the New Hudson bike which is old much abused bike and has 26inch tyres but not the “normal” ones which resulted in lots of head scratching by Halfords, I think there are 3
    separate similar sized but different sizes with out checking the bible aka Sheldon Browns site!

    Roger Merriman


    Right. Historically, tire diameters are described by
    (roughly) outside diameter like a carriage wheel of the late
    1800s.

    Trouble is, the rim-tire fit is described by the tire inside
    diameter which also equals the rim bead seat diameter. More,
    every country and many large manufacturers set their own
    standard.

    We currently see large numbers of 26 decimal (559mm) and
    650B (584mm) rather than the once-ubiquitous British
    lightweight (590mm) or its American variants 597mm and 26
    lightweight decimal (610mm). Good luck finding tires for
    German 590 which are ever so slightly smaller than British
    590, or Swedish 558mm or 562mm. There are (were) others.

    All of those are called (and tires marked) "twenty six inch".

    As an aside, tubulars, the oldest standard which size has
    not changed since the 1890s, are variously labeled "700C"
    (they are not; the 700 type C was developed later to
    exchange wheels with the same brake height as a tubular) or
    "27 inch" (they are not; 27 inch systems are larger) or "28
    inch" (again, 28s are all much larger) even down to today by
    various tubular makers in some weird vestigial rite. The
    net effect is confusion to riders and is not at all helpful.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    am@yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From AMuzi@21:1/5 to Zen Cycle on Thu Mar 6 09:39:29 2025
    On 3/6/2025 8:58 AM, Zen Cycle wrote:
    On 3/6/2025 9:51 AM, AMuzi wrote:
    On 3/6/2025 5:11 AM, zen cycle wrote:
    On 3/5/2025 5:06 PM, AMuzi wrote:
    On 3/5/2025 3:08 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the
    chain rings and
    the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I
    didn't want to
    disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex
    deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not
    find a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard
    and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like
    they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.

    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman

    News to me; 5-arm 110mm chainring bolts are a universal
    commodity AFAIK.

    With a magnifier, see if they are just broached poorly
    or maybe if they are Torx.  If you succumbed to the bad
    idea of an aluminum chainring bolt that's very possible.

    I have a set that are torx, and it's a known "problem"

    https://www.reddit.com/r/cycling/comments/6drndl/
    shimano_chainring_bolts_t30_torx_why/?rdt=44490

    If the bolts have crud built up and the light isn't
    really good, they can look like Allen,

    Just make sure whether they're Imperial or Metric :)

    Imperial are a distinct rarity here in USA ( I went all
    over hell to find a WW allen for my custom Hetchins long
    ago).

    More common are SAE, which outnumber, in fasteners and
    tools, metric to some great degree.

    That said, chainring bolts are a minuscule subset of
    fasteners and, as a standard consumer product, not-metric
    are virtually unknown (or at least I have never seen one.
    Not one.)

    It did actually turn out to be defective broaching which
    makes more sense than any other variant.


    um....It was a joke about metric vs imperial torx, Andrew


    Sorry, that went over my head. D'oh.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    am@yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Catrike Ryder@21:1/5 to AMuzi on Thu Mar 6 11:34:28 2025
    On Thu, 6 Mar 2025 08:51:07 -0600, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:

    On 3/6/2025 5:11 AM, zen cycle wrote:
    On 3/5/2025 5:06 PM, AMuzi wrote:
    On 3/5/2025 3:08 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the
    chain rings and
    the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I
    didn't want to
    disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex
    deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not find
    a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard
    and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like
    they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.

    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman

    News to me; 5-arm 110mm chainring bolts are a universal
    commodity AFAIK.

    With a magnifier, see if they are just broached poorly or
    maybe if they are Torx. If you succumbed to the bad idea
    of an aluminum chainring bolt that's very possible.

    I have a set that are torx, and it's a known "problem"

    https://www.reddit.com/r/cycling/comments/6drndl/
    shimano_chainring_bolts_t30_torx_why/?rdt=44490

    If the bolts have crud built up and the light isn't really
    good, they can look like Allen,

    Just make sure whether they're Imperial or Metric :)

    Imperial are a distinct rarity here in USA ( I went all over
    hell to find a WW allen for my custom Hetchins long ago).

    More common are SAE, which outnumber, in fasteners and
    tools, metric to some great degree.

    That said, chainring bolts are a minuscule subset of
    fasteners and, as a standard consumer product, not-metric
    are virtually unknown (or at least I have never seen one.
    Not one.)

    It did actually turn out to be defective broaching which
    makes more sense than any other variant.

    MY problem is that I don't deal with chain ring bolts often enough to
    have imediately recognised the problem. I actually thought that the
    bolts had little (around 1/8") hex slots way down deep inside. I
    didn't know enough to look deeper until I checked out the smaller
    bolts that came in the package.

    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From bp@www.zefox.net@21:1/5 to AMuzi on Thu Mar 6 16:54:57 2025
    AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:

    As an aside, tubulars, the oldest standard which size has
    not changed since the 1890s, are variously labeled "700C"
    (they are not; the 700 type C was developed later to
    exchange wheels with the same brake height as a tubular) or
    "27 inch" (they are not; 27 inch systems are larger) or "28
    inch" (again, 28s are all much larger) even down to today by
    various tubular makers in some weird vestigial rite. The
    net effect is confusion to riders and is not at all helpful.

    As a matter of curiosity, what is that standard size called,
    and how is it measured?

    Thanks for writing,

    bob prohaska

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?Y3ljbGludG9t?=@21:1/5 to All on Thu Mar 6 17:04:06 2025
    On Wed Mar 5 16:08:18 2025 Catrike Ryder wrote:
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the chain rings and
    the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I didn't want to disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not find a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.




    Modern crank bolts can be made out of aluminum and instead of allen bolt may be Torx. Usually you can use the camera option on your smart phone to see close enough to identify this.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From AMuzi@21:1/5 to bp@www.zefox.net on Thu Mar 6 11:37:17 2025
    On 3/6/2025 10:54 AM, bp@www.zefox.net wrote:
    AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:

    As an aside, tubulars, the oldest standard which size has
    not changed since the 1890s, are variously labeled "700C"
    (they are not; the 700 type C was developed later to
    exchange wheels with the same brake height as a tubular) or
    "27 inch" (they are not; 27 inch systems are larger) or "28
    inch" (again, 28s are all much larger) even down to today by
    various tubular makers in some weird vestigial rite. The
    net effect is confusion to riders and is not at all helpful.

    As a matter of curiosity, what is that standard size called,
    and how is it measured?

    Thanks for writing,

    bob prohaska


    "tubulars".*

    They predate numerical designations but originally were
    called 28 inch as they were a lot fatter then. Actual rim
    diameter is 630mm.

    And now, we return to fat tubulars for 'gravel' and cyclo
    cross. The ever popular 23mm tubulars are about 26-1/2
    inches edge to edge. Newer fat tubulars are about 27-1/2
    inches on that rim.


    *there are/were 26" tubulars for TT and track, 24" for
    children's bikes and 22", 20" for wheelchairs. All are and
    were specialties/oddities with no significant volume.

    https://howirollsports.com/shop/panaracer-rapide-20-inch/

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    am@yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Catrike Ryder@21:1/5 to All on Thu Mar 6 12:46:42 2025
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 17:04:06 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    On Wed Mar 5 16:08:18 2025 Catrike Ryder wrote:
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the chain rings and
    the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I didn't want to
    disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not find a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.




    Modern crank bolts can be made out of aluminum and instead of allen bolt may be Torx. Usually you can use the camera option on your smart phone to see close enough to identify this.

    Aluminum crank bolts are for weight weenies, and I did try a torx
    driver on them. The bolts were mismanufactured. I tossed them. Not
    worth trying to return them.

    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to Soloman@old.bikers.org on Thu Mar 6 12:26:38 2025
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:46:42 -0500, Catrike Ryder
    <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:

    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 17:04:06 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    On Wed Mar 5 16:08:18 2025 Catrike Ryder wrote:
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the chain rings and
    the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I didn't want to
    disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not find a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.




    Modern crank bolts can be made out of aluminum and instead of allen bolt may be Torx. Usually you can use the camera option on your smart phone to see close enough to identify this.

    Aluminum crank bolts are for weight weenies, and I did try a torx
    driver on them. The bolts were mismanufactured. I tossed them. Not
    worth trying to return them.

    They also may have been misordered. There are Torx and Torx Plus
    heads. Common Torx heads have a 15 degree drive angle, while Torx
    Plus has a zero degree drive angle.
    <https://i.imgur.com/dvIdABh.jpeg>

    "The Evolution of Torx: From Torx to Torx Plus and Beyond" <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhRcWaEkHtE> (7:52)

    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Catrike Ryder@21:1/5 to All on Thu Mar 6 16:27:55 2025
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:26:38 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
    wrote:

    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:46:42 -0500, Catrike Ryder
    <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:

    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 17:04:06 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    On Wed Mar 5 16:08:18 2025 Catrike Ryder wrote:
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the chain rings and
    the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I didn't want to
    disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not find a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.




    Modern crank bolts can be made out of aluminum and instead of allen bolt may be Torx. Usually you can use the camera option on your smart phone to see close enough to identify this.

    Aluminum crank bolts are for weight weenies, and I did try a torx
    driver on them. The bolts were mismanufactured. I tossed them. Not
    worth trying to return them.

    They also may have been misordered. There are Torx and Torx Plus
    heads. Common Torx heads have a 15 degree drive angle, while Torx
    Plus has a zero degree drive angle.
    <https://i.imgur.com/dvIdABh.jpeg>

    "The Evolution of Torx: From Torx to Torx Plus and Beyond" ><https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhRcWaEkHtE> (7:52)

    No, I don't think so. The other smaller bolts on that order all took a
    #5 metric. The 16mm bolts were just a bad bunch. New ones on order.
    Be here tomorrow.

    --
    C'est bon
    Soloman

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From AMuzi@21:1/5 to Jeff Liebermann on Thu Mar 6 15:34:55 2025
    On 3/6/2025 2:26 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:46:42 -0500, Catrike Ryder
    <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:

    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 17:04:06 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    On Wed Mar 5 16:08:18 2025 Catrike Ryder wrote:
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the chain rings and
    the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I didn't want to
    disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not find a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.




    Modern crank bolts can be made out of aluminum and instead of allen bolt may be Torx. Usually you can use the camera option on your smart phone to see close enough to identify this.

    Aluminum crank bolts are for weight weenies, and I did try a torx
    driver on them. The bolts were mismanufactured. I tossed them. Not
    worth trying to return them.

    They also may have been misordered. There are Torx and Torx Plus
    heads. Common Torx heads have a 15 degree drive angle, while Torx
    Plus has a zero degree drive angle.
    <https://i.imgur.com/dvIdABh.jpeg>

    "The Evolution of Torx: From Torx to Torx Plus and Beyond" <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhRcWaEkHtE> (7:52)


    Standards are wonderful. We ought to have lots of them.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    am@yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Zen Cycle@21:1/5 to AMuzi on Thu Mar 6 16:41:06 2025
    On 3/6/2025 4:34 PM, AMuzi wrote:
    On 3/6/2025 2:26 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:46:42 -0500, Catrike Ryder
    <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:

    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 17:04:06 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    On Wed Mar 5 16:08:18 2025 Catrike Ryder  wrote:
    The chain ring guard came so I set about mounting the chain rings and >>>>> the guard. I ordered new chain ring bolts because I didn't want to
    disassemble the old crank. The new inner bolts had hex deep down
    inside and I figure that was fine until I could not find a allen
    wrench that fit them. I tried both metric and standard and nothing
    fits. The bolts on my old crank take a #5 allen.

    Does anyone know what's going on?

    I ordered another set of 16mm bolts and they look like they have a
    larger hex that's not set deep inside it.




    Modern crank bolts can be made out of aluminum and instead of allen
    bolt may be Torx. Usually you can use the camera option on your
    smart phone to see close enough to identify this.

    Aluminum crank bolts are for weight weenies, and I did try a torx
    driver on them. The bolts were mismanufactured. I tossed them. Not
    worth trying to return them.

    They also may have been misordered.  There are Torx and Torx Plus
    heads.  Common Torx heads have a 15 degree drive angle, while Torx
    Plus has a zero degree drive angle.
    <https://i.imgur.com/dvIdABh.jpeg>

    "The Evolution of Torx: From Torx to Torx Plus and Beyond"
    <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhRcWaEkHtE>  (7:52)


    Standards are wonderful. We ought to have lots of them.


    I'm living that life

    --
    Add xx to reply

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From zen cycle@21:1/5 to AMuzi on Fri Mar 7 06:20:46 2025
    On 3/6/2025 12:37 PM, AMuzi wrote:
    On 3/6/2025 10:54 AM, bp@www.zefox.net wrote:
    AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:

    As an aside, tubulars, the oldest standard which size has
    not changed since the 1890s, are variously labeled "700C"
    (they are not; the 700 type C was developed later to
    exchange wheels with the same brake height as a tubular) or
    "27 inch" (they are not; 27 inch systems are larger) or "28
    inch" (again, 28s are all much larger) even down to today by
    various tubular makers in some weird vestigial rite.  The
    net effect is confusion to riders and is not at all helpful.

    As a matter of curiosity, what is that standard size called,
    and how is it measured?

    Thanks for writing,

    bob prohaska

    "tubulars".*

    They predate numerical designations but originally were called 28 inch
    as they were a lot fatter then. Actual rim diameter is 630mm.

    And now, we return to fat tubulars for 'gravel' and cyclo cross. The
    ever popular 23mm tubulars are about 26-1/2 inches edge to edge. Newer
    fat tubulars are about 27-1/2 inches on that rim.


    *there are/were 26" tubulars for TT and track, 24" for children's bikes
    and 22", 20" for wheelchairs. All are and were specialties/oddities with
    no significant volume.

    https://howirollsports.com/shop/panaracer-rapide-20-inch/


    One of my best friends (still) has an old Takara "funny bike" from the
    1980's with a 24" front wheel, he had tubulars on it. Even then, a 24"
    tubular was special order.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From AMuzi@21:1/5 to zen cycle on Fri Mar 7 07:40:46 2025
    On 3/7/2025 5:20 AM, zen cycle wrote:
    On 3/6/2025 12:37 PM, AMuzi wrote:
    On 3/6/2025 10:54 AM, bp@www.zefox.net wrote:
    AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:

    As an aside, tubulars, the oldest standard which size has
    not changed since the 1890s, are variously labeled "700C"
    (they are not; the 700 type C was developed later to
    exchange wheels with the same brake height as a tubular) or
    "27 inch" (they are not; 27 inch systems are larger) or "28
    inch" (again, 28s are all much larger) even down to
    today by
    various tubular makers in some weird vestigial rite.  The
    net effect is confusion to riders and is not at all
    helpful.

    As a matter of curiosity, what is that standard size called,
    and how is it measured?

    Thanks for writing,

    bob prohaska

    "tubulars".*

    They predate numerical designations but originally were
    called 28 inch as they were a lot fatter then. Actual rim
    diameter is 630mm.

    And now, we return to fat tubulars for 'gravel' and cyclo
    cross. The ever popular 23mm tubulars are about 26-1/2
    inches edge to edge. Newer fat tubulars are about 27-1/2
    inches on that rim.


    *there are/were 26" tubulars for TT and track, 24" for
    children's bikes and 22", 20" for wheelchairs. All are and
    were specialties/oddities with no significant volume.

    https://howirollsports.com/shop/panaracer-rapide-20-inch/


    One of my best friends (still) has an old Takara "funny
    bike" from the 1980's with a 24" front wheel, he had
    tubulars on it. Even then, a 24" tubular was special order.

    Right. That had its popular moment both in professional
    level machines:

    http://www.yellowjersey.org/xrr.html

    and in 'econo' versions:

    https://www.yellowjersey.org/axr.html

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    am@yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Zen Cycle@21:1/5 to AMuzi on Fri Mar 7 10:27:15 2025
    On 3/7/2025 8:40 AM, AMuzi wrote:
    On 3/7/2025 5:20 AM, zen cycle wrote:
    On 3/6/2025 12:37 PM, AMuzi wrote:
    On 3/6/2025 10:54 AM, bp@www.zefox.net wrote:
    AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:

    As an aside, tubulars, the oldest standard which size has
    not changed since the 1890s, are variously labeled "700C"
    (they are not; the 700 type C was developed later to
    exchange wheels with the same brake height as a tubular) or
    "27 inch" (they are not; 27 inch systems are larger) or "28
    inch" (again, 28s are all much larger) even down to today by
    various tubular makers in some weird vestigial rite.  The
    net effect is confusion to riders and is not at all helpful.

    As a matter of curiosity, what is that standard size called,
    and how is it measured?

    Thanks for writing,

    bob prohaska

    "tubulars".*

    They predate numerical designations but originally were called 28
    inch as they were a lot fatter then. Actual rim diameter is 630mm.

    And now, we return to fat tubulars for 'gravel' and cyclo cross. The
    ever popular 23mm tubulars are about 26-1/2 inches edge to edge.
    Newer fat tubulars are about 27-1/2 inches on that rim.


    *there are/were 26" tubulars for TT and track, 24" for children's
    bikes and 22", 20" for wheelchairs. All are and were specialties/
    oddities with no significant volume.

    https://howirollsports.com/shop/panaracer-rapide-20-inch/


    One of my best friends (still) has an old Takara "funny bike" from the
    1980's with a 24" front wheel, he had tubulars on it. Even then, a 24"
    tubular was special order.

    Right. That had its popular moment both in professional level machines:

    http://www.yellowjersey.org/xrr.html

    and in 'econo' versions:

    https://www.yellowjersey.org/axr.html


    I love the curved top tube design. I almost picked up a really old
    Pinarello funny bike a few years ago with a similar design, but the
    seller wouldn't budge on the price ($900, a bit much for something that
    would see little more use than wall art).

    I need to correct myself though, It isn't a Takara funny bike my friend
    has, it's a Nashbar. Websearch shows it as a Nashbar Aero Sprint Pursuit possibly made Shogun. My friend thinks it was made by Takara, though
    anytime anyone asked him who made the frame he would reply "Takara....I
    think".

    Here it is as I raced it in ~1992:

    https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10203555191496775&set=a.10203555191376772

    Yes, the bar set-up is ridiculously bad - no one really knew what they
    were doing back then with aero bars.

    Would you have any other insight as to the actual frame builder?


    Add xx to reply

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From bp@www.zefox.net@21:1/5 to AMuzi on Fri Mar 7 15:56:01 2025
    AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:

    "tubulars".*

    They predate numerical designations but originally were
    called 28 inch as they were a lot fatter then. Actual rim
    diameter is 630mm.

    So the tire was named by major diameter x width and the wheel
    by major tire diameter minus twice the minor diameter? That's
    sensible. Provided the cross section is always circular. Is it?

    Thanks for writing!

    bob prohaska

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From AMuzi@21:1/5 to bp@www.zefox.net on Fri Mar 7 10:34:36 2025
    On 3/7/2025 9:56 AM, bp@www.zefox.net wrote:
    AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:

    "tubulars".*

    They predate numerical designations but originally were
    called 28 inch as they were a lot fatter then. Actual rim
    diameter is 630mm.

    So the tire was named by major diameter x width and the wheel
    by major tire diameter minus twice the minor diameter? That's
    sensible. Provided the cross section is always circular. Is it?

    Thanks for writing!

    bob prohaska



    Yes, modern ISO system bicycle tires describe (rough,
    nominal) diameter and (rough. nominal) width.

    Take a tape measure to your "29x50" or "26x1.95" to see why
    I wrote those are rough and nominal dimensions.

    Originally calling tubulars "28" sorta made some sense, but
    as popular tire widths became smaller the actual diameter
    dropped as well.

    I have ridden a much cleaner example of this extremely well
    made and nice handling Pope Columbia shaft drive fixie. Note
    standard racing tubulars of the era:

    https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/rare-antique-pope-columbia-drive-shaft-bicycle

    Compare current tubulars:
    http://www.yellowjersey.org/PANAK7IB.JPG

    Tubular tires from both bikes fit each other's rims.

    The confusion all comes from an initial practice of
    describing tires by outer diameter, just like carriage
    wheels. As tire width fashion changed for each rim format,
    the nomenclature was stuck in a fictitious 'diameter'.

    Modern systems for autos are more logical (not by much; they
    have their own foibles) by describing rim size rather than
    tire outer diameter. A 13" auto wheel has a rim 13" diameter
    at the bead set and (in my case) a tire 23 inches in
    diameter. We have a useful ISO bicycle system (useful
    because it works) but note a "29" rim and a "700" rim (same
    ISO of 622mm) are neither 700mm nor 29 inches. 622mm is
    about 24-1/2 inches.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    am@yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From =?UTF-8?B?Y3ljbGludG9t?=@21:1/5 to All on Fri Mar 7 16:37:43 2025
    On Thu Mar 6 12:26:38 2025 Jeff Liebermann wrote:

    Aluminum crank bolts are for weight weenies, and I did try a torx
    driver on them. The bolts were mismanufactured. I tossed them. Not
    worth trying to return them.

    They also may have been misordered. There are Torx and Torx Plus
    heads. Common Torx heads have a 15 degree drive angle, while Torx
    Plus has a zero degree drive angle.
    <https://i.imgur.com/dvIdABh.jpeg>

    "The Evolution of Torx: From Torx to Torx Plus and Beyond" <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhRcWaEkHtE> (7:52)




    And of course millions of bicycles use Torx Plus fittings. Liebermann knows!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to All on Fri Mar 7 11:07:43 2025
    On Fri, 07 Mar 2025 10:53:30 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
    wrote:

    On Fri, 07 Mar 2025 16:37:43 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
    wrote:
    And of course millions of bicycles use Torx Plus fittings. Liebermann knows!

    Trex perhaps?

    Notice how neatly I combined Torx (fasteners) and Trek (bicycle mfg)
    to produce Trex (decking).

    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to All on Fri Mar 7 10:53:30 2025
    On Fri, 07 Mar 2025 16:37:43 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    On Thu Mar 6 12:26:38 2025 Jeff Liebermann wrote:

    Aluminum crank bolts are for weight weenies, and I did try a torx
    driver on them. The bolts were mismanufactured. I tossed them. Not
    worth trying to return them.

    They also may have been misordered. There are Torx and Torx Plus
    heads. Common Torx heads have a 15 degree drive angle, while Torx
    Plus has a zero degree drive angle.
    <https://i.imgur.com/dvIdABh.jpeg>

    "The Evolution of Torx: From Torx to Torx Plus and Beyond"
    <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhRcWaEkHtE> (7:52)

    And of course millions of bicycles use Torx Plus fittings. Liebermann knows!

    Trex perhaps? Not millions, but it's a start.
    Notice that it's a 5 lobe bit. Probably fits a security fastener: <https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/bike-accessories/bike-tools-maintenance/bike-shop-supplies/trek-torx-plus-ipr25-security-bit/p/36771/>

    More:
    "Broken Bosch motor mount bolts!" (ebike): <https://www.mtbr.com/threads/broken-bosch-motor-mount-bolts.1174943/page-2> <https://www.mtbr.com/attachments/1660303699180-png.1995140/>


    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Zen Cycle@21:1/5 to Jeff Liebermann on Fri Mar 7 15:01:26 2025
    On 3/7/2025 2:07 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Fri, 07 Mar 2025 10:53:30 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
    wrote:

    On Fri, 07 Mar 2025 16:37:43 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
    wrote:
    And of course millions of bicycles use Torx Plus fittings. Liebermann knows!

    Trex perhaps?

    Notice how neatly I combined Torx (fasteners) and Trek (bicycle mfg)
    to produce Trex (decking).


    uh, yeah.... that's what happened ;)

    --
    Add xx to reply

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to All on Fri Mar 7 17:45:46 2025
    On Fri, 7 Mar 2025 15:01:26 -0500, Zen Cycle <funkmaster@hotmail.com>
    wrote:

    On 3/7/2025 2:07 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Fri, 07 Mar 2025 10:53:30 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
    wrote:

    On Fri, 07 Mar 2025 16:37:43 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
    wrote:
    And of course millions of bicycles use Torx Plus fittings. Liebermann knows!

    Trex perhaps?

    Notice how neatly I combined Torx (fasteners) and Trek (bicycle mfg)
    to produce Trex (decking).

    uh, yeah.... that's what happened ;)

    I assure you that it was quite accidental. If it had been
    intentional, I would have included the T-Rex (dinosaur) or T.Rex (the
    band).
    <https://darkcycleclothing.com/products/t-rex-on-a-bike-print>



    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Roger Merriman@21:1/5 to Jeff Liebermann on Sat Mar 8 08:11:22 2025
    Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
    On Fri, 7 Mar 2025 15:01:26 -0500, Zen Cycle <funkmaster@hotmail.com>
    wrote:

    On 3/7/2025 2:07 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Fri, 07 Mar 2025 10:53:30 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
    wrote:

    On Fri, 07 Mar 2025 16:37:43 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
    wrote:
    And of course millions of bicycles use Torx Plus fittings. Liebermann knows!

    Trex perhaps?

    Notice how neatly I combined Torx (fasteners) and Trek (bicycle mfg)
    to produce Trex (decking).

    uh, yeah.... that's what happened ;)

    I assure you that it was quite accidental. If it had been
    intentional, I would have included the T-Rex (dinosaur) or T.Rex (the
    band).
    <https://darkcycleclothing.com/products/t-rex-on-a-bike-print>




    I’m not a million miles away from Barnes railway bridge where he died, and the younger folk are baffled as to why it’s called Bolan death bridge! Be that via Strava segments or chat!

    Gives one a chance to try to educate the youth!

    Roger Merriman

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)