On Fri, 21 Mar 2025 20:34:45 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
https://cdn.saleminteractivemedia.com/245/content/299126/conservative-cartoon-3-18.jpg?v=202503182305012711
I'm too vulnerable to getting dragged into political arguments, which
serves no purpose.
On the other hand, I'm gonna work on my bike today and probably go for
a short ride later..
Anybody else?
--
C'est bon
Soloman
https://cdn.saleminteractivemedia.com/245/content/299126/conservative-cartoon-3-18.jpg?v=202503182305012711
On Fri, 21 Mar 2025 20:34:45 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
https://cdn.saleminteractivemedia.com/245/content/299126/conservative-cartoon-3-18.jpg?v=202503182305012711
I'm too vulnerable to getting dragged into political arguments, which
serves no purpose.
On the other hand, I'm gonna work on my bike today and probably go for
a short ride later..
Anybody else?
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 04:19:53 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Fri, 21 Mar 2025 20:34:45 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
https://cdn.saleminteractivemedia.com/245/content/299126/conservative-cartoon-3-18.jpg?v=202503182305012711
I'm too vulnerable to getting dragged into political arguments, which
serves no purpose.
On the other hand, I'm gonna work on my bike today and probably go for
a short ride later..
Anybody else?
I go practically every day. A SHORT ride. my 10Km. Came back a
few hours ago.
Gears are terrible. Middle chain ring is catching on the front derailleur every time my left foot goes down, chain is skipping over
my highest back gear (I've probably worn the cassette down, it's the
gear I use most, and I put on a new chain last week).
I'm thinking of giving up maintenance and taking it to an
"expert" next week. He'll probably say I need to replace everything
including the frame.....
[]'s
On 3/22/2025 9:17 AM, Shadow wrote:
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 04:19:53 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Fri, 21 Mar 2025 20:34:45 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
https://cdn.saleminteractivemedia.com/245/content/299126/
conservative-cartoon-3-18.jpg?v=202503182305012711
I'm too vulnerable to getting dragged into political arguments, which
serves no purpose.
On the other hand, I'm gonna work on my bike today and probably go for
a short ride later..
Anybody else?
I go practically every day. A SHORT ride. my 10Km. Came back a
few hours ago.
Gears are terrible. Middle chain ring is catching on the front
derailleur every time my left foot goes down, chain is skipping over
my highest back gear (I've probably worn the cassette down, it's the
gear I use most, and I put on a new chain last week).
I'm thinking of giving up maintenance and taking it to an
"expert" next week. He'll probably say I need to replace everything
including the frame.....
[]'s
Right, a new chain cannot engage a worn sprocket.
Wear is inside the chain, between rivets and rollers. The rollers do not
turn against the teeth.
Once wear has resulted in a significantly greater distance between
rivets, the longer effective pitch means the rollers begin abrading the
face of the teeth, as the roller cannot otherwise engage the original
pitch sprocket.
https://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/WORN.JPG
Replacing the chain at that point is useless because the original pitch doesn't match the newly-sculpted teeth.
You need a new cassette (or freewheel. You didn't indicate which system).
In future, measure chain periodically with a chain gauge or a steel
ruler. A new chain is 12 inches for 24 rivets. When 24 rivets spans 12-1/16", throw it out. Chain is the cheapest part of the system and
first to wear.
See useful comments by Jobst Brandt in the pink/purple text box here:
https://www.yellowjersey.org/3'32.html
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 04:19:53 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Fri, 21 Mar 2025 20:34:45 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
https://cdn.saleminteractivemedia.com/245/content/299126/conservative-cartoon-3-18.jpg?v=202503182305012711
I'm too vulnerable to getting dragged into political arguments, which >>serves no purpose.
On the other hand, I'm gonna work on my bike today and probably go for
a short ride later..
Anybody else?
I go practically every day. A SHORT ride. my 10Km. Came back a
few hours ago.
Gears are terrible. Middle chain ring is catching on the front
derailleur every time my left foot goes down, chain is skipping over
my highest back gear (I've probably worn the cassette down, it's the
gear I use most, and I put on a new chain last week).
I'm thinking of giving up maintenance and taking it to an
"expert" next week. He'll probably say I need to replace everything
including the frame.....
[]'s
https://cdn.saleminteractivemedia.com/245/content/299126/conservative- cartoon-3-18.jpg?v=202503182305012711
On 3/22/2025 9:17 AM, Shadow wrote:
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 04:19:53 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Fri, 21 Mar 2025 20:34:45 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
https://cdn.saleminteractivemedia.com/245/content/299126/conservative-cartoon-3-18.jpg?v=202503182305012711
I'm too vulnerable to getting dragged into political arguments, which
serves no purpose.
On the other hand, I'm gonna work on my bike today and probably go for
a short ride later..
Anybody else?
I go practically every day. A SHORT ride. my 10Km. Came back a
few hours ago.
Gears are terrible. Middle chain ring is catching on the front
derailleur every time my left foot goes down, chain is skipping over
my highest back gear (I've probably worn the cassette down, it's the
gear I use most, and I put on a new chain last week).
I'm thinking of giving up maintenance and taking it to an
"expert" next week. He'll probably say I need to replace everything
including the frame.....
[]'s
Right, a new chain cannot engage a worn sprocket.
Wear is inside the chain, between rivets and rollers. The
rollers do not turn against the teeth.
Once wear has resulted in a significantly greater distance
between rivets, the longer effective pitch means the rollers
begin abrading the face of the teeth, as the roller cannot
otherwise engage the original pitch sprocket.
https://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/WORN.JPG
Replacing the chain at that point is useless because the
original pitch doesn't match the newly-sculpted teeth.
You need a new cassette (or freewheel. You didn't indicate
which system).
In future, measure chain periodically with a chain gauge or
a steel ruler. A new chain is 12 inches for 24 rivets. When
24 rivets spans 12-1/16", throw it out. Chain is the
cheapest part of the system and first to wear.
See useful comments by Jobst Brandt in the pink/purple text
box here:
https://www.yellowjersey.org/3'32.html
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 11:48:21 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 3/22/2025 9:17 AM, Shadow wrote:
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 04:19:53 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Fri, 21 Mar 2025 20:34:45 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
https://cdn.saleminteractivemedia.com/245/content/299126/conservative-cartoon-3-18.jpg?v=202503182305012711
I'm too vulnerable to getting dragged into political arguments, which
serves no purpose.
On the other hand, I'm gonna work on my bike today and probably go for >>>> a short ride later..
Anybody else?
I go practically every day. A SHORT ride. my 10Km. Came back a
few hours ago.
Gears are terrible. Middle chain ring is catching on the front
derailleur every time my left foot goes down, chain is skipping over
my highest back gear (I've probably worn the cassette down, it's the
gear I use most, and I put on a new chain last week).
I'm thinking of giving up maintenance and taking it to an
"expert" next week. He'll probably say I need to replace everything
including the frame.....
[]'s
Right, a new chain cannot engage a worn sprocket.
Wear is inside the chain, between rivets and rollers. The
rollers do not turn against the teeth.
Once wear has resulted in a significantly greater distance
between rivets, the longer effective pitch means the rollers
begin abrading the face of the teeth, as the roller cannot
otherwise engage the original pitch sprocket.
https://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/WORN.JPG
Replacing the chain at that point is useless because the
original pitch doesn't match the newly-sculpted teeth.
Actually, I can probably get another 1000 Km off this cassette
(it's a free wheel with 8 different size "gears") since all the
"middle" gears are barely used. As I said, I use almost exclusively
the "top gear" at the back. And my largest chain ring, though I do
change down to get home, it's a steep slope.
You need a new cassette (or freewheel. You didn't indicate
which system).
In future, measure chain periodically with a chain gauge or
a steel ruler. A new chain is 12 inches for 24 rivets. When
24 rivets spans 12-1/16", throw it out. Chain is the
cheapest part of the system and first to wear.
I have several "chain-wear"gauges. They told me my last chain
was worn at less than 1000 km, so I assumed they were not measuring >correctly. Chains are expensive here, half the price of the cassette.
<https://www.indianbikeshop.com.br/MLB-1047799106-cassete-shimano-altus-hg31-11-34d-megarange-8v-16v-24v-_JM>
(this is the one I use)
Shimano are far too expensive:
<https://www.indianbikeshop.com.br/MLB-1355966331-corrente-shimano-cn-hg40-116-elos-mtb-speed-7v-21v-8v-24v-_JM>
So I use KMC
<https://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-2628554693-corrente-8v-kmc-z8-cinza-116-elos-power-link-8v-16v-24v-_JM>
See useful comments by Jobst Brandt in the pink/purple text
box here:
https://www.yellowjersey.org/3'32.html
OK, read.
I clean my chain every 200 km using detergent, toothbrushes
and plenty of water. Then I wipe them dry and use a wax-based
lubricant, leave it overnight and wipe the excess off in the morning
before heading out.
I use a screwdriver for jockey wheels and between the cogs at
the back. Put bike on stand, pedal, apply screwdriver and the gunk
drops out.
Ah, when I put the new derailleur in, I decided to change the
cable and conduits. When I took the cable out of the changer I "lost a
gear". Only 6 clicks, instead of 7. Easy, I though, I'll take it
apart, probably a piece of dirt clogging something. Well, I got my 8
gears back, but managed to break the indicator, so I have no idea what
gear I'm in. I have to look back or just judge how much pressure I'm
putting on the pedals. Which is why I sometimes change into 8th even
if I'm avoiding it. "Skipping" is not good for the chain.
So now you know why I chose to be a GP and not a surgeon. I'd
probably put a patient together and discover I have a spare arm or leg
in the "parts" box. I'm hopeless at manual stuff. I have a
neurological disorder. My hands and fingers (and legs below the
thighs) are numb, and have been for over 20 years.
But thanks for the head-up.
[]'s
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 11:48:21 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:Every maybe 2 months I take the chain off and dunk it in a jar of OMS
On 3/22/2025 9:17 AM, Shadow wrote:
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 04:19:53 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Fri, 21 Mar 2025 20:34:45 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
https://cdn.saleminteractivemedia.com/245/content/299126/conservative-cartoon-3-18.jpg?v=202503182305012711
I'm too vulnerable to getting dragged into political arguments, which
serves no purpose.
On the other hand, I'm gonna work on my bike today and probably go for >>>> a short ride later..
Anybody else?
I go practically every day. A SHORT ride. my 10Km. Came back a
few hours ago.
Gears are terrible. Middle chain ring is catching on the front
derailleur every time my left foot goes down, chain is skipping over
my highest back gear (I've probably worn the cassette down, it's the
gear I use most, and I put on a new chain last week).
I'm thinking of giving up maintenance and taking it to an
"expert" next week. He'll probably say I need to replace everything
including the frame.....
[]'s
Right, a new chain cannot engage a worn sprocket.
Wear is inside the chain, between rivets and rollers. The
rollers do not turn against the teeth.
Once wear has resulted in a significantly greater distance
between rivets, the longer effective pitch means the rollers
begin abrading the face of the teeth, as the roller cannot
otherwise engage the original pitch sprocket.
https://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/WORN.JPG
Replacing the chain at that point is useless because the
original pitch doesn't match the newly-sculpted teeth.
Actually, I can probably get another 1000 Km off this cassette
(it's a free wheel with 8 different size "gears") since all the
"middle" gears are barely used. As I said, I use almost exclusively
the "top gear" at the back. And my largest chain ring, though I do
change down to get home, it's a steep slope.
You need a new cassette (or freewheel. You didn't indicate
which system).
In future, measure chain periodically with a chain gauge or
a steel ruler. A new chain is 12 inches for 24 rivets. When
24 rivets spans 12-1/16", throw it out. Chain is the
cheapest part of the system and first to wear.
I have several "chain-wear"gauges. They told me my last chain
was worn at less than 1000 km, so I assumed they were not measuring correctly. Chains are expensive here, half the price of the cassette.
<https://www.indianbikeshop.com.br/MLB-1047799106-cassete-shimano-altus-hg31-11-34d-megarange-8v-16v-24v-_JM>
(this is the one I use)
Shimano are far too expensive:
<https://www.indianbikeshop.com.br/MLB-1355966331-corrente-shimano-cn-hg40-116-elos-mtb-speed-7v-21v-8v-24v-_JM>
So I use KMC
<https://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-2628554693-corrente-8v-kmc-z8-cinza-116-elos-power-link-8v-16v-24v-_JM>
See useful comments by Jobst Brandt in the pink/purple text
box here:
https://www.yellowjersey.org/3'32.html
OK, read.
I clean my chain every 200 km using detergent, toothbrushes
and plenty of water. Then I wipe them dry and use a wax-based
lubricant, leave it overnight and wipe the excess off in the morning
before heading out.
I use a screwdriver for jockey wheels and between the cogs at
the back. Put bike on stand, pedal, apply screwdriver and the gunk
drops out.
Ah, when I put the new derailleur in, I decided to change the
cable and conduits. When I took the cable out of the changer I "lost a
gear". Only 6 clicks, instead of 7. Easy, I though, I'll take it
apart, probably a piece of dirt clogging something. Well, I got my 8
gears back, but managed to break the indicator, so I have no idea what
gear I'm in. I have to look back or just judge how much pressure I'm
putting on the pedals. Which is why I sometimes change into 8th even
if I'm avoiding it. "Skipping" is not good for the chain.
So now you know why I chose to be a GP and not a surgeon. I'd
probably put a patient together and discover I have a spare arm or leg
in the "parts" box. I'm hopeless at manual stuff. I have a
neurological disorder. My hands and fingers (and legs below the
thighs) are numb, and have been for over 20 years.
But thanks for the head-up.
[]'s
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 11:48:21 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 3/22/2025 9:17 AM, Shadow wrote:
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 04:19:53 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Fri, 21 Mar 2025 20:34:45 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
https://cdn.saleminteractivemedia.com/245/content/299126/conservative-cartoon-3-18.jpg?v=202503182305012711
I'm too vulnerable to getting dragged into political arguments, which
serves no purpose.
On the other hand, I'm gonna work on my bike today and probably go for >>>> a short ride later..
Anybody else?
I go practically every day. A SHORT ride. my 10Km. Came back a
few hours ago.
Gears are terrible. Middle chain ring is catching on the front
derailleur every time my left foot goes down, chain is skipping over
my highest back gear (I've probably worn the cassette down, it's the
gear I use most, and I put on a new chain last week).
I'm thinking of giving up maintenance and taking it to an
"expert" next week. He'll probably say I need to replace everything
including the frame.....
[]'s
Right, a new chain cannot engage a worn sprocket.
Wear is inside the chain, between rivets and rollers. The
rollers do not turn against the teeth.
Once wear has resulted in a significantly greater distance
between rivets, the longer effective pitch means the rollers
begin abrading the face of the teeth, as the roller cannot
otherwise engage the original pitch sprocket.
https://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/WORN.JPG
Replacing the chain at that point is useless because the
original pitch doesn't match the newly-sculpted teeth.
Actually, I can probably get another 1000 Km off this cassette
(it's a free wheel with 8 different size "gears") since all the
"middle" gears are barely used. As I said, I use almost exclusively
the "top gear" at the back. And my largest chain ring, though I do
change down to get home, it's a steep slope.
You need a new cassette (or freewheel. You didn't indicate
which system).
In future, measure chain periodically with a chain gauge or
a steel ruler. A new chain is 12 inches for 24 rivets. When
24 rivets spans 12-1/16", throw it out. Chain is the
cheapest part of the system and first to wear.
I have several "chain-wear"gauges. They told me my last chain
was worn at less than 1000 km, so I assumed they were not measuring correctly. Chains are expensive here, half the price of the cassette.
<https://www.indianbikeshop.com.br/MLB-1047799106-cassete-shimano-altus-hg31-11-34d-megarange-8v-16v-24v-_JM>
(this is the one I use)
Shimano are far too expensive:
<https://www.indianbikeshop.com.br/MLB-1355966331-corrente-shimano-cn-hg40-116-elos-mtb-speed-7v-21v-8v-24v-_JM>
So I use KMC
<https://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-2628554693-corrente-8v-kmc-z8-cinza-116-elos-power-link-8v-16v-24v-_JM>
See useful comments by Jobst Brandt in the pink/purple text
box here:
https://www.yellowjersey.org/3'32.html
OK, read.
I clean my chain every 200 km using detergent, toothbrushes
and plenty of water. Then I wipe them dry and use a wax-based
lubricant, leave it overnight and wipe the excess off in the morning
before heading out.
I use a screwdriver for jockey wheels and between the cogs at
the back. Put bike on stand, pedal, apply screwdriver and the gunk
drops out.
Ah, when I put the new derailleur in, I decided to change the
cable and conduits. When I took the cable out of the changer I "lost a
gear". Only 6 clicks, instead of 7. Easy, I though, I'll take it
apart, probably a piece of dirt clogging something. Well, I got my 8
gears back, but managed to break the indicator, so I have no idea what
gear I'm in. I have to look back or just judge how much pressure I'm
putting on the pedals. Which is why I sometimes change into 8th even
if I'm avoiding it. "Skipping" is not good for the chain.
So now you know why I chose to be a GP and not a surgeon. I'd
probably put a patient together and discover I have a spare arm or leg
in the "parts" box. I'm hopeless at manual stuff. I have a
neurological disorder. My hands and fingers (and legs below the
thighs) are numb, and have been for over 20 years.
But thanks for the head-up.
[]'s
On Sun, 23 Mar 2025 15:08:01 -0500, Mark J cleary
<mcleary08@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/23/2025 2:11 PM, Shadow wrote:
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 11:48:21 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:Every maybe 2 months I take the chain off and dunk it in a jar of OMS
On 3/22/2025 9:17 AM, Shadow wrote:
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 04:19:53 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Fri, 21 Mar 2025 20:34:45 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>>
https://cdn.saleminteractivemedia.com/245/content/299126/conservative-cartoon-3-18.jpg?v=202503182305012711
I'm too vulnerable to getting dragged into political arguments, which >>>>>> serves no purpose.
On the other hand, I'm gonna work on my bike today and probably go for >>>>>> a short ride later..
Anybody else?
I go practically every day. A SHORT ride. my 10Km. Came back a
few hours ago.
Gears are terrible. Middle chain ring is catching on the front
derailleur every time my left foot goes down, chain is skipping over >>>>> my highest back gear (I've probably worn the cassette down, it's the >>>>> gear I use most, and I put on a new chain last week).
I'm thinking of giving up maintenance and taking it to an
"expert" next week. He'll probably say I need to replace everything
including the frame.....
[]'s
Right, a new chain cannot engage a worn sprocket.
Wear is inside the chain, between rivets and rollers. The
rollers do not turn against the teeth.
Once wear has resulted in a significantly greater distance
between rivets, the longer effective pitch means the rollers
begin abrading the face of the teeth, as the roller cannot
otherwise engage the original pitch sprocket.
https://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/WORN.JPG
Replacing the chain at that point is useless because the
original pitch doesn't match the newly-sculpted teeth.
Actually, I can probably get another 1000 Km off this cassette
(it's a free wheel with 8 different size "gears") since all the
"middle" gears are barely used. As I said, I use almost exclusively
the "top gear" at the back. And my largest chain ring, though I do
change down to get home, it's a steep slope.
You need a new cassette (or freewheel. You didn't indicate
which system).
In future, measure chain periodically with a chain gauge or
a steel ruler. A new chain is 12 inches for 24 rivets. When
24 rivets spans 12-1/16", throw it out. Chain is the
cheapest part of the system and first to wear.
I have several "chain-wear"gauges. They told me my last chain
was worn at less than 1000 km, so I assumed they were not measuring
correctly. Chains are expensive here, half the price of the cassette.
<https://www.indianbikeshop.com.br/MLB-1047799106-cassete-shimano-altus-hg31-11-34d-megarange-8v-16v-24v-_JM>
(this is the one I use)
Shimano are far too expensive:
<https://www.indianbikeshop.com.br/MLB-1355966331-corrente-shimano-cn-hg40-116-elos-mtb-speed-7v-21v-8v-24v-_JM>
So I use KMC
<https://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-2628554693-corrente-8v-kmc-z8-cinza-116-elos-power-link-8v-16v-24v-_JM>
See useful comments by Jobst Brandt in the pink/purple text
box here:
https://www.yellowjersey.org/3'32.html
OK, read.
I clean my chain every 200 km using detergent, toothbrushes
and plenty of water. Then I wipe them dry and use a wax-based
lubricant, leave it overnight and wipe the excess off in the morning
before heading out.
I use a screwdriver for jockey wheels and between the cogs at
the back. Put bike on stand, pedal, apply screwdriver and the gunk
drops out.
Ah, when I put the new derailleur in, I decided to change the
cable and conduits. When I took the cable out of the changer I "lost a
gear". Only 6 clicks, instead of 7. Easy, I though, I'll take it
apart, probably a piece of dirt clogging something. Well, I got my 8
gears back, but managed to break the indicator, so I have no idea what
gear I'm in. I have to look back or just judge how much pressure I'm
putting on the pedals. Which is why I sometimes change into 8th even
if I'm avoiding it. "Skipping" is not good for the chain.
So now you know why I chose to be a GP and not a surgeon. I'd
probably put a patient together and discover I have a spare arm or leg
in the "parts" box. I'm hopeless at manual stuff. I have a
neurological disorder. My hands and fingers (and legs below the
thighs) are numb, and have been for over 20 years.
But thanks for the head-up.
[]'s
and shake it up. Then wipe in down nice a dry and clean the crank rings
good while no chain on them. Then I reinstall the chain. That is it
other than lubing it in the process. I easily get 6000 miles on a chain
and have never as such wore a cassette out. I have changed them out
after 15,000 miles but they did not skip or wear. Chain checkers are
useless a good mechanics steel rule is best.
Must be something wrong with my bike. Something "not-in-line".
It's quite heavy to pedal although it's supposed to be a lightweight aluminium frame, unlike my old single gear steel frame which was very
easy, and the chains lasted for ages. Or maybe I'm just older, and it
seems harder.
My latest cassette has around 1500km on it (1000 miles) and
it's due for a change. I changed the chain at just over 1000km and
it's skipping.
On my old bike I used to get around 10.000km on chains. Soaked
them in kerosene, hung them up to dry then applied copious amounts of
SAE 140 transmission oil. Bought a new one when the old one looked too
rusty or sounded "rough". Never wore out a rear cog, though I used to
swap them out a lot, they were very cheap. I did break a freewheel
once and had to walk 10Km home.
AMuzi is probably having a heart attack .... LOL
[]'s
I have a Shimano single speed rear cog in a box somewhere
behind me. Never looked to see if it has a model number, but it must
be fairly old. 30+ years. No idea if it's interesting.
Agghhh! My arm ! Found it. It says "Shimano Freewheel NO 4591
Made in Japan". 20 teeth.
Most in the box were "Gold Star"made in India. The Shimano
spins much more smoothly than the Indian models, FWIW.
On 3/23/2025 2:11 PM, Shadow wrote:
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 11:48:21 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:Every maybe 2 months I take the chain off and dunk it in a jar of OMS
On 3/22/2025 9:17 AM, Shadow wrote:
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 04:19:53 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Fri, 21 Mar 2025 20:34:45 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>
https://cdn.saleminteractivemedia.com/245/content/299126/conservative-cartoon-3-18.jpg?v=202503182305012711
I'm too vulnerable to getting dragged into political arguments, which >>>>> serves no purpose.
On the other hand, I'm gonna work on my bike today and probably go for >>>>> a short ride later..
Anybody else?
I go practically every day. A SHORT ride. my 10Km. Came back a
few hours ago.
Gears are terrible. Middle chain ring is catching on the front
derailleur every time my left foot goes down, chain is skipping over
my highest back gear (I've probably worn the cassette down, it's the
gear I use most, and I put on a new chain last week).
I'm thinking of giving up maintenance and taking it to an
"expert" next week. He'll probably say I need to replace everything
including the frame.....
[]'s
Right, a new chain cannot engage a worn sprocket.
Wear is inside the chain, between rivets and rollers. The
rollers do not turn against the teeth.
Once wear has resulted in a significantly greater distance
between rivets, the longer effective pitch means the rollers
begin abrading the face of the teeth, as the roller cannot
otherwise engage the original pitch sprocket.
https://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/WORN.JPG
Replacing the chain at that point is useless because the
original pitch doesn't match the newly-sculpted teeth.
Actually, I can probably get another 1000 Km off this cassette
(it's a free wheel with 8 different size "gears") since all the
"middle" gears are barely used. As I said, I use almost exclusively
the "top gear" at the back. And my largest chain ring, though I do
change down to get home, it's a steep slope.
You need a new cassette (or freewheel. You didn't indicate
which system).
In future, measure chain periodically with a chain gauge or
a steel ruler. A new chain is 12 inches for 24 rivets. When
24 rivets spans 12-1/16", throw it out. Chain is the
cheapest part of the system and first to wear.
I have several "chain-wear"gauges. They told me my last chain
was worn at less than 1000 km, so I assumed they were not measuring
correctly. Chains are expensive here, half the price of the cassette.
<https://www.indianbikeshop.com.br/MLB-1047799106-cassete-shimano-altus-hg31-11-34d-megarange-8v-16v-24v-_JM>
(this is the one I use)
Shimano are far too expensive:
<https://www.indianbikeshop.com.br/MLB-1355966331-corrente-shimano-cn-hg40-116-elos-mtb-speed-7v-21v-8v-24v-_JM>
So I use KMC
<https://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-2628554693-corrente-8v-kmc-z8-cinza-116-elos-power-link-8v-16v-24v-_JM>
See useful comments by Jobst Brandt in the pink/purple text
box here:
https://www.yellowjersey.org/3'32.html
OK, read.
I clean my chain every 200 km using detergent, toothbrushes
and plenty of water. Then I wipe them dry and use a wax-based
lubricant, leave it overnight and wipe the excess off in the morning
before heading out.
I use a screwdriver for jockey wheels and between the cogs at
the back. Put bike on stand, pedal, apply screwdriver and the gunk
drops out.
Ah, when I put the new derailleur in, I decided to change the
cable and conduits. When I took the cable out of the changer I "lost a
gear". Only 6 clicks, instead of 7. Easy, I though, I'll take it
apart, probably a piece of dirt clogging something. Well, I got my 8
gears back, but managed to break the indicator, so I have no idea what
gear I'm in. I have to look back or just judge how much pressure I'm
putting on the pedals. Which is why I sometimes change into 8th even
if I'm avoiding it. "Skipping" is not good for the chain.
So now you know why I chose to be a GP and not a surgeon. I'd
probably put a patient together and discover I have a spare arm or leg
in the "parts" box. I'm hopeless at manual stuff. I have a
neurological disorder. My hands and fingers (and legs below the
thighs) are numb, and have been for over 20 years.
But thanks for the head-up.
[]'s
and shake it up. Then wipe in down nice a dry and clean the crank rings
good while no chain on them. Then I reinstall the chain. That is it
other than lubing it in the process. I easily get 6000 miles on a chain
and have never as such wore a cassette out. I have changed them out
after 15,000 miles but they did not skip or wear. Chain checkers are
useless a good mechanics steel rule is best.
On 3/23/2025 2:11 PM, Shadow wrote:
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 11:48:21 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Ah, when I put the new derailleur in, I decided to change the
cable and conduits. When I took the cable out of the changer I "lost a
gear". Only 6 clicks, instead of 7. Easy, I though, I'll take it
apart, probably a piece of dirt clogging something. Well, I got my 8
gears back, but managed to break the indicator, so I have no idea what
gear I'm in. I have to look back or just judge how much pressure I'm
putting on the pedals. Which is why I sometimes change into 8th even
if I'm avoiding it. "Skipping" is not good for the chain.
So now you know why I chose to be a GP and not a surgeon. I'd
probably put a patient together and discover I have a spare arm or leg
in the "parts" box. I'm hopeless at manual stuff. I have a
neurological disorder. My hands and fingers (and legs below the
thighs) are numb, and have been for over 20 years.
But thanks for the head-up.
[]'s
114 Brasil Real is not expensive for a CS-8 compared to US
prices. Low actually. Ditto for KMC-8 chain.
Then again I'm uninformed about relative earnings, rents,
taxes etc in Brasil so that may be expensive for you.
Depending on the model of shifter, it's usually that the peg
for the indicator is not in the appropriate socket of the
shift mechanism(easy to misalign). If it's annoying for you
I'd open that once more and look at the parts, maybe with a
magnifier, before sliding it back together. Tedious maybe
but not really difficult.
On 3/23/2025 8:05 PM, Shadow wrote:
I knowI've always thought you should use a reasonable number of gears if you
you should use as many gears as possible if you want the parts to last
longer.
want your knees to last longer. Those are important parts - of one's body.
On 3/22/2025 9:17 AM, Shadow wrote:
On Sat, 22 Mar 2025 04:19:53 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Fri, 21 Mar 2025 20:34:45 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
https://cdn.saleminteractivemedia.com/245/content/299126/conservative-cartoon-3-18.jpg?v=202503182305012711
I'm too vulnerable to getting dragged into political arguments, which
serves no purpose.
On the other hand, I'm gonna work on my bike today and probably go for
a short ride later..
Anybody else?
I go practically every day. A SHORT ride. my 10Km. Came back a
few hours ago.
Gears are terrible. Middle chain ring is catching on the front derailleur every time my left foot goes down, chain is skipping over
my highest back gear (I've probably worn the cassette down, it's the
gear I use most, and I put on a new chain last week).
I'm thinking of giving up maintenance and taking it to an
"expert" next week. He'll probably say I need to replace everything including the frame.....
[]'s
Right, a new chain cannot engage a worn sprocket.
Wear is inside the chain, between rivets and rollers. The
rollers do not turn against the teeth.
Once wear has resulted in a significantly greater distance
between rivets, the longer effective pitch means the rollers
begin abrading the face of the teeth, as the roller cannot
otherwise engage the original pitch sprocket.
https://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/WORN.JPG
Replacing the chain at that point is useless because the
original pitch doesn't match the newly-sculpted teeth.
You need a new cassette (or freewheel. You didn't indicate
which system).
In future, measure chain periodically with a chain gauge or
a steel ruler. A new chain is 12 inches for 24 rivets. When
24 rivets spans 12-1/16", throw it out. Chain is the
cheapest part of the system and first to wear.
See useful comments by Jobst Brandt in the pink/purple text
box here:
https://www.yellowjersey.org/3'32.html
On Sun, 23 Mar 2025 18:23:36 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 3/23/2025 6:17 PM, Shadow wrote:
I have a Shimano single speed rear cog in a box somewhere
behind me. Never looked to see if it has a model number, but it must
be fairly old. 30+ years. No idea if it's interesting.
Agghhh! My arm ! Found it. It says "Shimano Freewheel NO 4591
Made in Japan". 20 teeth.
Most in the box were "Gold Star"made in India. The Shimano
spins much more smoothly than the Indian models, FWIW.
It is a NO 4531, the "3" had a speck of grunge on it so I
mistook it for a "9". I believe they were quite common.
+1 Shimano single freewheels are 'full balls' and much
better machined inside.
For your 'slow' bike, lift the handlebars and spin the front
wheel. Does it spin freely? Brakes rubbing? Tire touching
fork or mudguard? Bent rim? Tire bulge?
Nothing. Spins forever. Well, for minutes.
Don't have mudguards.
Now do the rear. It will spin a bit less well from the
freewheel/cassette drag but not by much. Check the usual
problems above, especially between chainstays just behind
the crank.
Also spins quite freely. Has a wobble because of the broken
spoke, which I decided to tape to another spoke. But it's a 36 spoke
wheel, so not much of a wobble.
If wheels spin nicely, slip the chain off to the inside and
spin the crankset. Any impediment? A broken/damaged bearing
assembly is hard to notice while the chain is on.
Took me 3 hours. I thought the back gear when it broke had
spun round and bent the second chain ring. Hence the noise.
But after a LOT of listening I discovered that the largest
chain ring barely touched the derailleur cage when the middle chain
ring had the chain on it and only when my left leg was on a
downstroke.
AKA, when in 2nd, the largest chain touched the derailleur
cage once every 360 degrees. But nothing touched anything when I was
in 1st or 3rd gear.
So I lifted the front derailleur a couple of millimeters.
Which made the chain drop off when I forced third, so I had to play
around with the HI screw until it stopped doing it.
Why are these things so complicated?
I have no idea why the large chain ring is slightly off
center. It's not perfectly round, it's slightly elliptical but not symmetrical. Like an egg..... Maybe by design? My chain set is a FC
TY301 175 mm 42/34/24. I installed it last year replacing the original
170 mm FC-M171.
BTW, I changed the BB last year too. It's brand new, very
smooth.
[]'s
On 3/23/2025 6:17 PM, Shadow wrote:
I have a Shimano single speed rear cog in a box somewhere
behind me. Never looked to see if it has a model number, but it must
be fairly old. 30+ years. No idea if it's interesting.
Agghhh! My arm ! Found it. It says "Shimano Freewheel NO 4591
Made in Japan". 20 teeth.
Most in the box were "Gold Star"made in India. The Shimano
spins much more smoothly than the Indian models, FWIW.
+1 Shimano single freewheels are 'full balls' and much
better machined inside.
For your 'slow' bike, lift the handlebars and spin the front
wheel. Does it spin freely? Brakes rubbing? Tire touching
fork or mudguard? Bent rim? Tire bulge?
Now do the rear. It will spin a bit less well from the
freewheel/cassette drag but not by much. Check the usual
problems above, especially between chainstays just behind
the crank.
If wheels spin nicely, slip the chain off to the inside and
spin the crankset. Any impediment? A broken/damaged bearing
assembly is hard to notice while the chain is on.
On Mon, 24 Mar 2025 16:57:05 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 3/24/2025 4:43 PM, Shadow wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2025 18:23:36 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 3/23/2025 6:17 PM, Shadow wrote:
I have a Shimano single speed rear cog in a box somewhere
behind me. Never looked to see if it has a model number, but it must >>>>> be fairly old. 30+ years. No idea if it's interesting.
Agghhh! My arm ! Found it. It says "Shimano Freewheel NO 4591
Made in Japan". 20 teeth.
Most in the box were "Gold Star"made in India. The Shimano
spins much more smoothly than the Indian models, FWIW.
It is a NO 4531, the "3" had a speck of grunge on it so I
mistook it for a "9". I believe they were quite common.
+1 Shimano single freewheels are 'full balls' and much
better machined inside.
For your 'slow' bike, lift the handlebars and spin the front
wheel. Does it spin freely? Brakes rubbing? Tire touching
fork or mudguard? Bent rim? Tire bulge?
Nothing. Spins forever. Well, for minutes.
Don't have mudguards.
Now do the rear. It will spin a bit less well from the
freewheel/cassette drag but not by much. Check the usual
problems above, especially between chainstays just behind
the crank.
Also spins quite freely. Has a wobble because of the broken
spoke, which I decided to tape to another spoke. But it's a 36 spoke
wheel, so not much of a wobble.
If wheels spin nicely, slip the chain off to the inside and
spin the crankset. Any impediment? A broken/damaged bearing
assembly is hard to notice while the chain is on.
Took me 3 hours. I thought the back gear when it broke had
spun round and bent the second chain ring. Hence the noise.
But after a LOT of listening I discovered that the largest
chain ring barely touched the derailleur cage when the middle chain
ring had the chain on it and only when my left leg was on a
downstroke.
AKA, when in 2nd, the largest chain touched the derailleur
cage once every 360 degrees. But nothing touched anything when I was
in 1st or 3rd gear.
So I lifted the front derailleur a couple of millimeters.
Which made the chain drop off when I forced third, so I had to play
around with the HI screw until it stopped doing it.
Why are these things so complicated?
I have no idea why the large chain ring is slightly off
center. It's not perfectly round, it's slightly elliptical but not
symmetrical. Like an egg..... Maybe by design? My chain set is a FC
TY301 175 mm 42/34/24. I installed it last year replacing the original
170 mm FC-M171.
BTW, I changed the BB last year too. It's brand new, very
smooth.
[]'s
After your exhaustive research, you've eliminated all the
common reasons for 'bicycle hard to pedal/ seems slow'.
Unless tires are low, I can't think of any reason for that,
sorry.
I'm probably very damaged. Most of my life sitting down. I
used to run, ride a bike and swim a lot, but not for the last 30-40
years or so of my career. Not enough time between shifts.
FWIW, my knees make more noise than my gears. Anything louder
than my knees and I'm asking for help here.
I'll increase the pressure on tires. Don't have a gauge, so I
pump until I can't depress the part that contacts the asphalt with a
finger.
p.s. Shimano single freewheel model numbers start with SF,
such as SF-1200 for example.
Maybe they didn't abbreviate it in those days. It says
"Shimano Freewheel NO 4531 Made in Japan." There is a small "TO". "T"
means it was made in 1995. No idea what the "O" is. There is also a
333 written in another font. I read somewhere that "333"meant at least
part of the manufacturing had been outsourced to "Suntour"(?). Can't
find the article.
[]'s
On 3/24/2025 4:43 PM, Shadow wrote:
On Sun, 23 Mar 2025 18:23:36 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 3/23/2025 6:17 PM, Shadow wrote:
I have a Shimano single speed rear cog in a box somewhere
behind me. Never looked to see if it has a model number, but it must
be fairly old. 30+ years. No idea if it's interesting.
Agghhh! My arm ! Found it. It says "Shimano Freewheel NO 4591
Made in Japan". 20 teeth.
Most in the box were "Gold Star"made in India. The Shimano
spins much more smoothly than the Indian models, FWIW.
It is a NO 4531, the "3" had a speck of grunge on it so I
mistook it for a "9". I believe they were quite common.
+1 Shimano single freewheels are 'full balls' and much
better machined inside.
For your 'slow' bike, lift the handlebars and spin the front
wheel. Does it spin freely? Brakes rubbing? Tire touching
fork or mudguard? Bent rim? Tire bulge?
Nothing. Spins forever. Well, for minutes.
Don't have mudguards.
Now do the rear. It will spin a bit less well from the
freewheel/cassette drag but not by much. Check the usual
problems above, especially between chainstays just behind
the crank.
Also spins quite freely. Has a wobble because of the broken
spoke, which I decided to tape to another spoke. But it's a 36 spoke
wheel, so not much of a wobble.
If wheels spin nicely, slip the chain off to the inside and
spin the crankset. Any impediment? A broken/damaged bearing
assembly is hard to notice while the chain is on.
Took me 3 hours. I thought the back gear when it broke had
spun round and bent the second chain ring. Hence the noise.
But after a LOT of listening I discovered that the largest
chain ring barely touched the derailleur cage when the middle chain
ring had the chain on it and only when my left leg was on a
downstroke.
AKA, when in 2nd, the largest chain touched the derailleur
cage once every 360 degrees. But nothing touched anything when I was
in 1st or 3rd gear.
So I lifted the front derailleur a couple of millimeters.
Which made the chain drop off when I forced third, so I had to play
around with the HI screw until it stopped doing it.
Why are these things so complicated?
I have no idea why the large chain ring is slightly off
center. It's not perfectly round, it's slightly elliptical but not
symmetrical. Like an egg..... Maybe by design? My chain set is a FC
TY301 175 mm 42/34/24. I installed it last year replacing the original
170 mm FC-M171.
BTW, I changed the BB last year too. It's brand new, very
smooth.
[]'s
After your exhaustive research, you've eliminated all the
common reasons for 'bicycle hard to pedal/ seems slow'.
Unless tires are low, I can't think of any reason for that,
sorry.
p.s. Shimano single freewheel model numbers start with SF,
such as SF-1200 for example.
https://cdn.saleminteractivemedia.com/245/content/299126/conservative-cartoon-3-18.jpg?v=202503182305012711
| Sysop: | Keyop |
|---|---|
| Location: | Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK |
| Users: | 546 |
| Nodes: | 16 (2 / 14) |
| Uptime: | 49:14:56 |
| Calls: | 10,397 |
| Calls today: | 5 |
| Files: | 14,067 |
| Messages: | 6,417,291 |
| Posted today: | 1 |
