After several rides where I stopped to fine tune my old Microshift
deraileur, I rode today without touching it. It performed all shifts
up and down quietly with no problems.
"So, my wife asked when I relayed that to her, are you going to return
the new one that's due here tomorrow?"
"Of course not," I answered. "I will rip the old one off and install
the new one that's designed for a big ring of 50 teeth."
The old one sits way to high above the 50 tooth ring, and even though
it's never overshifted the chain off the outside in my tests, it's
just wrong.....
I also have an idler making noise. I think it's bearings are shot. The Catrike will go back on the repair stand tomorrow without my proposed modifications. The parts for that are not here yet.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
On 4/14/2025 6:53 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
After several rides where I stopped to fine tune my old Microshift
deraileur, I rode today without touching it. It performed all shifts
up and down quietly with no problems.
"So, my wife asked when I relayed that to her, are you going to return
the new one that's due here tomorrow?"
"Of course not," I answered. "I will rip the old one off and install
the new one that's designed for a big ring of 50 teeth."
The old one sits way to high above the 50 tooth ring, and even though
it's never overshifted the chain off the outside in my tests, it's
just wrong.....
I also have an idler making noise. I think it's bearings are shot. The
Catrike will go back on the repair stand tomorrow without my proposed
modifications. The parts for that are not here yet.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Most common roller noise is a dry sleeve. It's just a simple
journal, often steel on steel, which will show a bright red
dust if it's been run dry.
Better designs are steel on bronze or oilite bronze and some
are ceramic sleeves. All of them run better, quieter and
longer with some oil on the sleeve.
There are miniature cartridge bearing models which are
seldom noisy and run a very long time with factory grease
under the seals.
Replacement is seldom necessary. Clean out the crud and oil it.
On 4/14/2025 9:11 PM, AMuzi wrote:
Most common roller noise is a dry sleeve. It's just a
simple journal, often steel on steel, which will show a
bright red dust if it's been run dry.
Better designs are steel on bronze or oilite bronze and
some are ceramic sleeves. All of them run better, quieter
and longer with some oil on the sleeve.
There are miniature cartridge bearing models which are
seldom noisy and run a very long time with factory grease
under the seals.
Replacement is seldom necessary. Clean out the crud and
oil it.
After one muddy tour I had a squealing idler pulley. I took
the ball bearing idler out of the ancient Huret Svelto
derailleur in my parts box and used it as a substitute.
IIRC, that's still working well on the bike.
I do have some sealed bearing idlers in a drawer somewhere.
On Mon, 14 Apr 2025 20:11:59 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 4/14/2025 6:53 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
After several rides where I stopped to fine tune my old Microshift
deraileur, I rode today without touching it. It performed all shifts
up and down quietly with no problems.
"So, my wife asked when I relayed that to her, are you going to return
the new one that's due here tomorrow?"
"Of course not," I answered. "I will rip the old one off and install
the new one that's designed for a big ring of 50 teeth."
The old one sits way to high above the 50 tooth ring, and even though
it's never overshifted the chain off the outside in my tests, it's
just wrong.....
I also have an idler making noise. I think it's bearings are shot. The
Catrike will go back on the repair stand tomorrow without my proposed
modifications. The parts for that are not here yet.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Most common roller noise is a dry sleeve. It's just a simple
journal, often steel on steel, which will show a bright red
dust if it's been run dry.
Better designs are steel on bronze or oilite bronze and some
are ceramic sleeves. All of them run better, quieter and
longer with some oil on the sleeve.
There are miniature cartridge bearing models which are
seldom noisy and run a very long time with factory grease
under the seals.
Replacement is seldom necessary. Clean out the crud and oil it.
THis idler is very old. It's one without teeth and on the return path
It used to be mounted between the bottom bracket and the crossarms,
and now it's the first one from the rear deraileur. It seems to be
wobbling on it's mount, so I suspect it's shot. I'll check it today.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
On 4/15/2025 3:18 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Mon, 14 Apr 2025 20:11:59 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 4/14/2025 6:53 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
After several rides where I stopped to fine tune my old Microshift
deraileur, I rode today without touching it. It performed all shifts
up and down quietly with no problems.
"So, my wife asked when I relayed that to her, are you going to return >>>> the new one that's due here tomorrow?"
"Of course not," I answered. "I will rip the old one off and install
the new one that's designed for a big ring of 50 teeth."
The old one sits way to high above the 50 tooth ring, and even though
it's never overshifted the chain off the outside in my tests, it's
just wrong.....
I also have an idler making noise. I think it's bearings are shot. The >>>> Catrike will go back on the repair stand tomorrow without my proposed
modifications. The parts for that are not here yet.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Most common roller noise is a dry sleeve. It's just a simple
journal, often steel on steel, which will show a bright red
dust if it's been run dry.
Better designs are steel on bronze or oilite bronze and some
are ceramic sleeves. All of them run better, quieter and
longer with some oil on the sleeve.
There are miniature cartridge bearing models which are
seldom noisy and run a very long time with factory grease
under the seals.
Replacement is seldom necessary. Clean out the crud and oil it.
THis idler is very old. It's one without teeth and on the return path
It used to be mounted between the bottom bracket and the crossarms,
and now it's the first one from the rear deraileur. It seems to be
wobbling on it's mount, so I suspect it's shot. I'll check it today.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Ah, a mounted chain idler, not on a derailleur.
Some low end models are steel on nylon and those don't last
well. And yes, if it's flopping side to side just replace it.
On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 07:44:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 4/15/2025 3:18 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Mon, 14 Apr 2025 20:11:59 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 4/14/2025 6:53 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
After several rides where I stopped to fine tune my old Microshift
deraileur, I rode today without touching it. It performed all shifts >>>>> up and down quietly with no problems.
"So, my wife asked when I relayed that to her, are you going to return >>>>> the new one that's due here tomorrow?"
"Of course not," I answered. "I will rip the old one off and install >>>>> the new one that's designed for a big ring of 50 teeth."
The old one sits way to high above the 50 tooth ring, and even though >>>>> it's never overshifted the chain off the outside in my tests, it's
just wrong.....
I also have an idler making noise. I think it's bearings are shot. The >>>>> Catrike will go back on the repair stand tomorrow without my proposed >>>>> modifications. The parts for that are not here yet.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Most common roller noise is a dry sleeve. It's just a simple
journal, often steel on steel, which will show a bright red
dust if it's been run dry.
Better designs are steel on bronze or oilite bronze and some
are ceramic sleeves. All of them run better, quieter and
longer with some oil on the sleeve.
There are miniature cartridge bearing models which are
seldom noisy and run a very long time with factory grease
under the seals.
Replacement is seldom necessary. Clean out the crud and oil it.
THis idler is very old. It's one without teeth and on the return path
It used to be mounted between the bottom bracket and the crossarms,
and now it's the first one from the rear deraileur. It seems to be
wobbling on it's mount, so I suspect it's shot. I'll check it today.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Ah, a mounted chain idler, not on a derailleur.
Some low end models are steel on nylon and those don't last
well. And yes, if it's flopping side to side just replace it.
I get them from TerraCycle
https://t-cycle.com/products/sport-return-idler
...and they are very high quality. FWIW, I recommend their products.
I replaced the bearings on the original toothed drive side idler many
years ago, and it survived to where I finally retired it with the
teeth worn down to sharp little points. Somewhere I've got a packet of
the bearings and if it looks like I can replace it, I will, but from
what I saw when I stopped to check on it, the bearing appeared to be
loose and the idler body is flopping around on it.
On 4/14/2025 9:11 PM, AMuzi wrote:
Most common roller noise is a dry sleeve. It's just a simple journal,
often steel on steel, which will show a bright red dust if it's been run
dry.
Better designs are steel on bronze or oilite bronze and some are ceramic
sleeves. All of them run better, quieter and longer with some oil on
the sleeve.
There are miniature cartridge bearing models which are seldom noisy and
run a very long time with factory grease under the seals.
Replacement is seldom necessary. Clean out the crud and oil it.
After one muddy tour I had a squealing idler pulley. I took the ball
bearing idler out of the ancient Huret Svelto derailleur in my parts box
and used it as a substitute. IIRC, that's still working well on the bike.
I do have some sealed bearing idlers in a drawer somewhere.
On 4/14/2025 9:11 PM, AMuzi wrote:
Most common roller noise is a dry sleeve. It's just a simple
journal, often steel on steel, which will show a bright red dust if
it's been run dry.
Better designs are steel on bronze or oilite bronze and some are
ceramic sleeves. All of them run better, quieter and longer with
some oil on the sleeve.
There are miniature cartridge bearing models which are seldom noisy
and run a very long time with factory grease under the seals.
Replacement is seldom necessary. Clean out the crud and oil it.
After one muddy tour I had a squealing idler pulley. I took the ball
bearing idler out of the ancient Huret Svelto derailleur in my parts
box and used it as a substitute. IIRC, that's still working well on
the bike.
I do have some sealed bearing idlers in a drawer somewhere.
On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 09:35:51 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 07:44:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 4/15/2025 3:18 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Mon, 14 Apr 2025 20:11:59 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
On 4/14/2025 6:53 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
After several rides where I stopped to fine tune my old Microshift >>>>>> deraileur, I rode today without touching it. It performed all shifts >>>>>> up and down quietly with no problems.
"So, my wife asked when I relayed that to her, are you going to return >>>>>> the new one that's due here tomorrow?"
"Of course not," I answered. "I will rip the old one off and install >>>>>> the new one that's designed for a big ring of 50 teeth."
The old one sits way to high above the 50 tooth ring, and even though >>>>>> it's never overshifted the chain off the outside in my tests, it's >>>>>> just wrong.....
I also have an idler making noise. I think it's bearings are shot. The >>>>>> Catrike will go back on the repair stand tomorrow without my proposed >>>>>> modifications. The parts for that are not here yet.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Most common roller noise is a dry sleeve. It's just a simple
journal, often steel on steel, which will show a bright red
dust if it's been run dry.
Better designs are steel on bronze or oilite bronze and some
are ceramic sleeves. All of them run better, quieter and
longer with some oil on the sleeve.
There are miniature cartridge bearing models which are
seldom noisy and run a very long time with factory grease
under the seals.
Replacement is seldom necessary. Clean out the crud and oil it.
THis idler is very old. It's one without teeth and on the return path
It used to be mounted between the bottom bracket and the crossarms,
and now it's the first one from the rear deraileur. It seems to be
wobbling on it's mount, so I suspect it's shot. I'll check it today.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Ah, a mounted chain idler, not on a derailleur.
Some low end models are steel on nylon and those don't last
well. And yes, if it's flopping side to side just replace it.
I get them from TerraCycle
https://t-cycle.com/products/sport-return-idler
...and they are very high quality. FWIW, I recommend their products.
I replaced the bearings on the original toothed drive side idler many
years ago, and it survived to where I finally retired it with the
teeth worn down to sharp little points. Somewhere I've got a packet of
the bearings and if it looks like I can replace it, I will, but from
what I saw when I stopped to check on it, the bearing appeared to be
loose and the idler body is flopping around on it.
Simple fix. I disassembled the idler and found the side of the bearing
I couldn't see all rusty and coming apart. I found the one remaining
bearing in my stash and put it in. Now it works fine. I guess I'd
replaced more than the one I mentioned, or else I lost some of them.
FWIW, the bearings are skateboard bearings. I ordered some more..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L8795LS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 12:52:29 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 09:35:51 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 07:44:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 4/15/2025 3:18 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Mon, 14 Apr 2025 20:11:59 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>
On 4/14/2025 6:53 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
After several rides where I stopped to fine tune my old Microshift >>>>>>> deraileur, I rode today without touching it. It performed all shifts >>>>>>> up and down quietly with no problems.
"So, my wife asked when I relayed that to her, are you going to return >>>>>>> the new one that's due here tomorrow?"
"Of course not," I answered. "I will rip the old one off and install >>>>>>> the new one that's designed for a big ring of 50 teeth."
The old one sits way to high above the 50 tooth ring, and even though >>>>>>> it's never overshifted the chain off the outside in my tests, it's >>>>>>> just wrong.....
I also have an idler making noise. I think it's bearings are shot. The >>>>>>> Catrike will go back on the repair stand tomorrow without my proposed >>>>>>> modifications. The parts for that are not here yet.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Most common roller noise is a dry sleeve. It's just a simple
journal, often steel on steel, which will show a bright red
dust if it's been run dry.
Better designs are steel on bronze or oilite bronze and some
are ceramic sleeves. All of them run better, quieter and
longer with some oil on the sleeve.
There are miniature cartridge bearing models which are
seldom noisy and run a very long time with factory grease
under the seals.
Replacement is seldom necessary. Clean out the crud and oil it.
THis idler is very old. It's one without teeth and on the return path >>>>> It used to be mounted between the bottom bracket and the crossarms,
and now it's the first one from the rear deraileur. It seems to be
wobbling on it's mount, so I suspect it's shot. I'll check it today. >>>>>
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Ah, a mounted chain idler, not on a derailleur.
Some low end models are steel on nylon and those don't last
well. And yes, if it's flopping side to side just replace it.
I get them from TerraCycle
https://t-cycle.com/products/sport-return-idler
...and they are very high quality. FWIW, I recommend their products.
I replaced the bearings on the original toothed drive side idler many
years ago, and it survived to where I finally retired it with the
teeth worn down to sharp little points. Somewhere I've got a packet of
the bearings and if it looks like I can replace it, I will, but from
what I saw when I stopped to check on it, the bearing appeared to be
loose and the idler body is flopping around on it.
Simple fix. I disassembled the idler and found the side of the bearing
I couldn't see all rusty and coming apart. I found the one remaining
bearing in my stash and put it in. Now it works fine. I guess I'd
replaced more than the one I mentioned, or else I lost some of them.
FWIW, the bearings are skateboard bearings. I ordered some more..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L8795LS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
The new Microshift 50/39/30 front derailleur came in this morning and
it took me 45 minutes to change them out and get the new one dialed
in. I know the guys who do that regularly could have done it in half
the time, but that I had no trouble was good for my ego after all the problems I had getting the old 53/39/30 derailleur to work.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
On 4/16/2025 12:02 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 12:52:29 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 09:35:51 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 07:44:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
On 4/15/2025 3:18 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Mon, 14 Apr 2025 20:11:59 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>>
On 4/14/2025 6:53 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
After several rides where I stopped to fine tune my old Microshift >>>>>>>> deraileur, I rode today without touching it. It performed all shifts >>>>>>>> up and down quietly with no problems.
"So, my wife asked when I relayed that to her, are you going to return >>>>>>>> the new one that's due here tomorrow?"
"Of course not," I answered. "I will rip the old one off and install >>>>>>>> the new one that's designed for a big ring of 50 teeth."
The old one sits way to high above the 50 tooth ring, and even though >>>>>>>> it's never overshifted the chain off the outside in my tests, it's >>>>>>>> just wrong.....
I also have an idler making noise. I think it's bearings are shot. The >>>>>>>> Catrike will go back on the repair stand tomorrow without my proposed >>>>>>>> modifications. The parts for that are not here yet.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Most common roller noise is a dry sleeve. It's just a simple
journal, often steel on steel, which will show a bright red
dust if it's been run dry.
Better designs are steel on bronze or oilite bronze and some
are ceramic sleeves. All of them run better, quieter and
longer with some oil on the sleeve.
There are miniature cartridge bearing models which are
seldom noisy and run a very long time with factory grease
under the seals.
Replacement is seldom necessary. Clean out the crud and oil it.
THis idler is very old. It's one without teeth and on the return path >>>>>> It used to be mounted between the bottom bracket and the crossarms, >>>>>> and now it's the first one from the rear deraileur. It seems to be >>>>>> wobbling on it's mount, so I suspect it's shot. I'll check it today. >>>>>>
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Ah, a mounted chain idler, not on a derailleur.
Some low end models are steel on nylon and those don't last
well. And yes, if it's flopping side to side just replace it.
I get them from TerraCycle
https://t-cycle.com/products/sport-return-idler
...and they are very high quality. FWIW, I recommend their products.
I replaced the bearings on the original toothed drive side idler many
years ago, and it survived to where I finally retired it with the
teeth worn down to sharp little points. Somewhere I've got a packet of >>>> the bearings and if it looks like I can replace it, I will, but from
what I saw when I stopped to check on it, the bearing appeared to be
loose and the idler body is flopping around on it.
Simple fix. I disassembled the idler and found the side of the bearing
I couldn't see all rusty and coming apart. I found the one remaining
bearing in my stash and put it in. Now it works fine. I guess I'd
replaced more than the one I mentioned, or else I lost some of them.
FWIW, the bearings are skateboard bearings. I ordered some more..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L8795LS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
The new Microshift 50/39/30 front derailleur came in this morning and
it took me 45 minutes to change them out and get the new one dialed
in. I know the guys who do that regularly could have done it in half
the time, but that I had no trouble was good for my ego after all the
problems I had getting the old 53/39/30 derailleur to work.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Yes, faster usually, but we cheat.
We move work so it's between elbow and shoulder, in a good
light, and we can work from either side. Recumbents just
take more time.
On 4/16/2025 12:02 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 12:52:29 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 09:35:51 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 07:44:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>
On 4/15/2025 3:18 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Mon, 14 Apr 2025 20:11:59 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org>
wrote:
On 4/14/2025 6:53 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
After several rides where I stopped to fine tune my old Microshift >>>>>>>> deraileur, I rode today without touching it. It performed all >>>>>>>> shifts
up and down quietly with no problems.
"So, my wife asked when I relayed that to her, are you going to >>>>>>>> return
the new one that's due here tomorrow?"
"Of course not," I answered. "I will rip the old one off and
install
the new one that's designed for a big ring of 50 teeth."
The old one sits way to high above the 50 tooth ring, and even >>>>>>>> though
it's never overshifted the chain off the outside in my tests, it's >>>>>>>> just wrong.....
I also have an idler making noise. I think it's bearings are
shot. The
Catrike will go back on the repair stand tomorrow without my
proposed
modifications. The parts for that are not here yet.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Most common roller noise is a dry sleeve. It's just a simple
journal, often steel on steel, which will show a bright red
dust if it's been run dry.
Better designs are steel on bronze or oilite bronze and some
are ceramic sleeves. All of them run better, quieter and
longer with some oil on the sleeve.
There are miniature cartridge bearing models which are
seldom noisy and run a very long time with factory grease
under the seals.
Replacement is seldom necessary. Clean out the crud and oil it.
THis idler is very old. It's one without teeth and on the return path >>>>>> It used to be mounted between the bottom bracket and the crossarms, >>>>>> and now it's the first one from the rear deraileur. It seems to be >>>>>> wobbling on it's mount, so I suspect it's shot. I'll check it today. >>>>>>
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Ah, a mounted chain idler, not on a derailleur.
Some low end models are steel on nylon and those don't last
well. And yes, if it's flopping side to side just replace it.
I get them from TerraCycle
https://t-cycle.com/products/sport-return-idler
...and they are very high quality. FWIW, I recommend their products.
I replaced the bearings on the original toothed drive side idler many
years ago, and it survived to where I finally retired it with the
teeth worn down to sharp little points. Somewhere I've got a packet of >>>> the bearings and if it looks like I can replace it, I will, but from
what I saw when I stopped to check on it, the bearing appeared to be
loose and the idler body is flopping around on it.
Simple fix. I disassembled the idler and found the side of the bearing
I couldn't see all rusty and coming apart. I found the one remaining
bearing in my stash and put it in. Now it works fine. I guess I'd
replaced more than the one I mentioned, or else I lost some of them.
FWIW, the bearings are skateboard bearings. I ordered some more..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L8795LS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
The new Microshift 50/39/30 front derailleur came in this morning and
it took me 45 minutes to change them out and get the new one dialed
in. I know the guys who do that regularly could have done it in half
the time, but that I had no trouble was good for my ego after all the
problems I had getting the old 53/39/30 derailleur to work.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Yes, faster usually, but we cheat.
We move work so it's between elbow and shoulder, in a good light, and we
can work from either side. Recumbents just take more time.
On 4/16/2025 12:32 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/16/2025 12:02 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 12:52:29 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 09:35:51 -0400, Catrike Ryder
<Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On Tue, 15 Apr 2025 07:44:11 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>
On 4/15/2025 3:18 AM, Catrike Ryder wrote:
On Mon, 14 Apr 2025 20:11:59 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org>
wrote:
On 4/14/2025 6:53 PM, Catrike Ryder wrote:THis idler is very old. It's one without teeth and on the return path >>>>>>> It used to be mounted between the bottom bracket and the crossarms, >>>>>>> and now it's the first one from the rear deraileur. It seems to be >>>>>>> wobbling on it's mount, so I suspect it's shot. I'll check it today. >>>>>>>
After several rides where I stopped to fine tune my old Microshift >>>>>>>>> deraileur, I rode today without touching it. It performed all >>>>>>>>> shifts
up and down quietly with no problems.
"So, my wife asked when I relayed that to her, are you going to >>>>>>>>> return
the new one that's due here tomorrow?"
"Of course not," I answered. "I will rip the old one off and >>>>>>>>> install
the new one that's designed for a big ring of 50 teeth."
The old one sits way to high above the 50 tooth ring, and even >>>>>>>>> though
it's never overshifted the chain off the outside in my tests, it's >>>>>>>>> just wrong.....
I also have an idler making noise. I think it's bearings are >>>>>>>>> shot. The
Catrike will go back on the repair stand tomorrow without my >>>>>>>>> proposed
modifications. The parts for that are not here yet.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Most common roller noise is a dry sleeve. It's just a simple
journal, often steel on steel, which will show a bright red
dust if it's been run dry.
Better designs are steel on bronze or oilite bronze and some
are ceramic sleeves. All of them run better, quieter and
longer with some oil on the sleeve.
There are miniature cartridge bearing models which are
seldom noisy and run a very long time with factory grease
under the seals.
Replacement is seldom necessary. Clean out the crud and oil it. >>>>>>>
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Ah, a mounted chain idler, not on a derailleur.
Some low end models are steel on nylon and those don't last
well. And yes, if it's flopping side to side just replace it.
I get them from TerraCycle
https://t-cycle.com/products/sport-return-idler
...and they are very high quality. FWIW, I recommend their products. >>>>>
I replaced the bearings on the original toothed drive side idler many >>>>> years ago, and it survived to where I finally retired it with the
teeth worn down to sharp little points. Somewhere I've got a packet of >>>>> the bearings and if it looks like I can replace it, I will, but from >>>>> what I saw when I stopped to check on it, the bearing appeared to be >>>>> loose and the idler body is flopping around on it.
Simple fix. I disassembled the idler and found the side of the bearing >>>> I couldn't see all rusty and coming apart. I found the one remaining
bearing in my stash and put it in. Now it works fine. I guess I'd
replaced more than the one I mentioned, or else I lost some of them.
FWIW, the bearings are skateboard bearings. I ordered some more..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L8795LS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
The new Microshift 50/39/30 front derailleur came in this morning and
it took me 45 minutes to change them out and get the new one dialed
in. I know the guys who do that regularly could have done it in half
the time, but that I had no trouble was good for my ego after all the
problems I had getting the old 53/39/30 derailleur to work.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Yes, faster usually, but we cheat.
We move work so it's between elbow and shoulder, in a good light, and we
can work from either side. Recumbents just take more time.
I always say the I am a competent bike mechanic and in time can do just
about everything I need to do. I don't make frames or components but >otherwise can do most anything. What separates me from the shop mechanic
is that I am not so fast. If I have not done the job in a while it is
going to take me longer and in general I take longer. The main thing is
to be self-sufficient if you can. Although the local shop wanted to hire
me because I could build and true wheels that at the time needed that
skill. I think only the head guy could do it. Those catrikes would be
hard to move around and deal with I would think.
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