I have very good tires on the BMC. (Gatorskins) But it has continuous problems with slow leaks appearing first in one tire and then the other.
The wheels are Campagnolo Sirocco so it is unlikely that there are imperfections in the rims and I use Specialized tubes whenever I can get
the proper size. And yet, when I leave the bike sitting for a month or so
one or the other of the tires is nearly fully pumped up and the other completely flat.
Anyone have any suggestions?
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have very good tires on the BMC. (Gatorskins) But it has continuous problems with slow leaks appearing first in one tire and then the other. The wheels are Campagnolo Sirocco so it is unlikely that there are imperfections in the rims and I use Specialized tubes whenever I can get the proper size. And yet, when I leave the bike sitting for a month or so one or the other of the tires is nearly fully pumped up and the other completely flat.
Anyone have any suggestions?
What are the punctures can you see any holes? Gatorskins are tough but not impervious, could be the value be that a fault or just user error ie isn?t fully closed and so on.
On 5/5/2025 4:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:patch. So I have to replace the innertube.
On Mon May 5 18:28:41 2025 Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have very good tires on the BMC. (Gatorskins) But it has continuous
problems with slow leaks appearing first in one tire and then the other. >>>> The wheels are Campagnolo Sirocco so it is unlikely that there are
imperfections in the rims and I use Specialized tubes whenever I can get >>>> the proper size. And yet, when I leave the bike sitting for a month or so >>>> one or the other of the tires is nearly fully pumped up and the other completely flat.
Anyone have any suggestions?
What are the punctures can you see any holes? Gatorskins are tough but not >>> impervious, could be the value be that a fault or just user error ie isn?t >>> fully closed and so on.
They look like hair thin wire punctures bot there are usually no trace of a wire in the tire inside or out. To even find them you have to pump the tube way up and put it under water and look for a very slow leak which mafes it almost impossible to
That last bit makes no sense. Over 50+ years of riding I've had plenty
of leaks so slow as to require water submersion to detect. They were all
able to be patched.
If you don't want to take the time, or don't know how to patch, that's
fine. You're allowed to use new tubes.
But overall: _SO_ many problems! ;-)
On 5/5/2025 4:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon May 5 18:28:41 2025 Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have very good tires on the BMC. (Gatorskins) But it has continuous
problems with slow leaks appearing first in one tire and then the
other.
The wheels are Campagnolo Sirocco so it is unlikely that there are
imperfections in the rims and I use Specialized tubes whenever I can
get
the proper size. And yet, when I leave the bike sitting for a month
or so
one or the other of the tires is nearly fully pumped up and the
other completely flat.
Anyone have any suggestions?
What are the punctures can you see any holes? Gatorskins are tough
but not
impervious, could be the value be that a fault or just user error ie
isn?t
fully closed and so on.
They look like hair thin wire punctures bot there are usually no trace
of a wire in the tire inside or out. To even find them you have to
pump the tube way up and put it under water and look for a very slow
leak which mafes it almost impossible to patch. So I have to replace
the innertube.
That last bit makes no sense. Over 50+ years of riding I've had plenty
of leaks so slow as to require water submersion to detect. They were all
able to be patched.
If you don't want to take the time, or don't know how to patch, that's
fine. You're allowed to use new tubes.
But overall: _SO_ many problems! ;-)
On Mon May 5 18:28:41 2025 Roger Merriman wrote:So I have to replace the innertube.
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have very good tires on the BMC. (Gatorskins) But it has continuous
problems with slow leaks appearing first in one tire and then the other. >> > The wheels are Campagnolo Sirocco so it is unlikely that there are
imperfections in the rims and I use Specialized tubes whenever I can get >> > the proper size. And yet, when I leave the bike sitting for a month or so >> > one or the other of the tires is nearly fully pumped up and the other completely flat.
Anyone have any suggestions?
What are the punctures can you see any holes? Gatorskins are tough but not >> impervious, could be the value be that a fault or just user error ie isn?t >> fully closed and so on.
They look like hair thin wire punctures bot there are usually no trace of a wire in the tire inside or out. To even find them you have to pump the tube way up and put it under water and look for a very slow leak which mafes it almost impossible to patch.
On Mon May 5 18:28:41 2025 Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have very good tires on the BMC. (Gatorskins) But it has continuous
problems with slow leaks appearing first in one tire and then the other. >>> The wheels are Campagnolo Sirocco so it is unlikely that there are
imperfections in the rims and I use Specialized tubes whenever I can get >>> the proper size. And yet, when I leave the bike sitting for a month or so >>> one or the other of the tires is nearly fully pumped up and the other completely flat.
Anyone have any suggestions?
What are the punctures can you see any holes? Gatorskins are tough but not >> impervious, could be the value be that a fault or just user error ie isn?t >> fully closed and so on.
They look like hair thin wire punctures bot there are usually no trace of
a wire in the tire inside or out. To even find them you have to pump the
tube way up and put it under water and look for a very slow leak which
mafes it almost impossible to patch. So I have to replace the innertube.
On 5/5/2025 4:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:...
patch. So I have to replace the innertube.They look like hair thin wire punctures bot there are usually no trace of a wire in the tire inside or out. To even find them you have to pump the tube way up and put it under water and look for a very slow leak which mafes it almost impossible to
That last bit makes no sense. Over 50+ years of riding I've had plenty
of leaks so slow as to require water submersion to detect. They were all
able to be patched.
If you don't want to take the time, or don't know how to patch, that's
fine. You're allowed to use new tubes.
On 5/5/2025 4:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:patch. So I have to replace the innertube.
On Mon May 5 18:28:41 2025 Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have very good tires on the BMC. (Gatorskins) But it has continuous
problems with slow leaks appearing first in one tire and then the other. >>>> The wheels are Campagnolo Sirocco so it is unlikely that there are
imperfections in the rims and I use Specialized tubes whenever I can get >>>> the proper size. And yet, when I leave the bike sitting for a month or so >>>> one or the other of the tires is nearly fully pumped up and the other completely flat.
Anyone have any suggestions?
What are the punctures can you see any holes? Gatorskins are tough but not >>> impervious, could be the value be that a fault or just user error ie isn?t >>> fully closed and so on.
They look like hair thin wire punctures bot there are usually no trace of a wire in the tire inside or out. To even find them you have to pump the tube way up and put it under water and look for a very slow leak which mafes it almost impossible to
That last bit makes no sense. Over 50+ years of riding I've had plenty
of leaks so slow as to require water submersion to detect. They were all
able to be patched.
If you don't want to take the time, or don't know how to patch, that's
fine. You're allowed to use new tubes.
But overall: _SO_ many problems! ;-)
I once bought some inner tubes that seem to have come from the factory
with leaks. (...)
On 5/6/2025 12:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 06 May 2025 10:19:59 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>Your image shows a typical inflation for tracking down a
wrote:
I once bought some inner tubes that seem to have come from the factory
with leaks. (...)
A bit more. I didn't have enough patches handy, so I used a small
blob of automotive "gasket maker" to plug the hole.
<https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/black-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-5-oz/>
I didn't ride enough to determine how many months or miles the black
goo was going to last, but it seems like it would work on small pin
holes. I don't recommend it for large punctures, long cuts or cracks.
Also, I had some slow leaks that were difficult to find using soapy
water. (At the time, I didn't think to try the ultrasonic leak
detector). So, I over-inflated the inner tube. I think it's probably
26 x 1 3/8:
<https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/inflated-tube.jpg>
Not only did the soapy water detect the leaks, I could hear the air
leak and also feel the air with my fingers. Also, the normal size of
the tire is the mounted tire located behind the over-inflated tire.
If I ever get around to buying a IR camera, I could try heating the
over-inflated tube, and possibly see the air leak because of the
temperature difference.
leak. Not overly large at all.
On Tue, 06 May 2025 10:19:59 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
I once bought some inner tubes that seem to have come from the factory
with leaks. (...)
A bit more. I didn't have enough patches handy, so I used a small
blob of automotive "gasket maker" to plug the hole. <https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/black-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-5-oz/>
I didn't ride enough to determine how many months or miles the black
goo was going to last, but it seems like it would work on small pin
holes. I don't recommend it for large punctures, long cuts or cracks.
Also, I had some slow leaks that were difficult to find using soapy
water. (At the time, I didn't think to try the ultrasonic leak
detector). So, I over-inflated the inner tube. I think it's probably
26 x 1 3/8:
<https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/inflated-tube.jpg>
Not only did the soapy water detect the leaks, I could hear the air
leak and also feel the air with my fingers. Also, the normal size of
the tire is the mounted tire located behind the over-inflated tire.
If I ever get around to buying a IR camera, I could try heating the over-inflated tube, and possibly see the air leak because of the
temperature difference.
On Tue, 6 May 2025 12:47:56 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 5/6/2025 12:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 06 May 2025 10:19:59 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>Your image shows a typical inflation for tracking down a
wrote:
I once bought some inner tubes that seem to have come from the factory >>>> with leaks. (...)
A bit more. I didn't have enough patches handy, so I used a small
blob of automotive "gasket maker" to plug the hole.
<https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/black-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-5-oz/>
I didn't ride enough to determine how many months or miles the black
goo was going to last, but it seems like it would work on small pin
holes. I don't recommend it for large punctures, long cuts or cracks.
Also, I had some slow leaks that were difficult to find using soapy
water. (At the time, I didn't think to try the ultrasonic leak
detector). So, I over-inflated the inner tube. I think it's probably
26 x 1 3/8:
<https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/inflated-tube.jpg>
Not only did the soapy water detect the leaks, I could hear the air
leak and also feel the air with my fingers. Also, the normal size of
the tire is the mounted tire located behind the over-inflated tire.
If I ever get around to buying a IR camera, I could try heating the
over-inflated tube, and possibly see the air leak because of the
temperature difference.
leak. Not overly large at all.
I was worried about the excessive stretching of the inner tube causing
the pin-hole to turn into a tear. That won't happen if the tire is in
place because the tire prevents the inner tube from stretching too
much. However, I didn't know how the tube would react and didn't want
to find out the hard way.
On Tue, 6 May 2025 12:47:56 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Your image shows a typical inflation for tracking down a
leak. Not overly large at all.
I was worried about the excessive stretching of the inner tube causing
the pin-hole to turn into a tear. That won't happen if the tire is in
place because the tire prevents the inner tube from stretching too
much. However, I didn't know how the tube would react and didn't want
to find out the hard way.
On 5/6/2025 1:05 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 6 May 2025 12:47:56 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 5/6/2025 12:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 06 May 2025 10:19:59 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> >>>> wrote:Your image shows a typical inflation for tracking down a
I once bought some inner tubes that seem to have come from the factory >>>>> with leaks. (...)
A bit more. I didn't have enough patches handy, so I used a small
blob of automotive "gasket maker" to plug the hole.
<https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/black-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-5-oz/>
I didn't ride enough to determine how many months or miles the black
goo was going to last, but it seems like it would work on small pin
holes. I don't recommend it for large punctures, long cuts or cracks. >>>>
Also, I had some slow leaks that were difficult to find using soapy
water. (At the time, I didn't think to try the ultrasonic leak
detector). So, I over-inflated the inner tube. I think it's probably >>>> 26 x 1 3/8:
<https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/inflated-tube.jpg>
Not only did the soapy water detect the leaks, I could hear the air
leak and also feel the air with my fingers. Also, the normal size of
the tire is the mounted tire located behind the over-inflated tire.
If I ever get around to buying a IR camera, I could try heating the
over-inflated tube, and possibly see the air leak because of the
temperature difference.
leak. Not overly large at all.
I was worried about the excessive stretching of the inner tube causing
the pin-hole to turn into a tear. That won't happen if the tire is in
place because the tire prevents the inner tube from stretching too
much. However, I didn't know how the tube would react and didn't want
to find out the hard way.
Teeny little holes (wire, syringe needle, thin glass shard,
thorn) can be hard to find at only moderate inflation. More
air, as you show in image, distends the aperture so it's
easy to feel the escaping air on one's face by passing the
tube across it.
On Tue, 06 May 2025 10:19:59 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
I once bought some inner tubes that seem to have come from the factory
with leaks. (...)
A bit more. I didn't have enough patches handy, so I used a small
blob of automotive "gasket maker" to plug the hole. ><https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/black-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-5-oz/>
I didn't ride enough to determine how many months or miles the black
goo was going to last, but it seems like it would work on small pin
holes. I don't recommend it for large punctures, long cuts or cracks.
Also, I had some slow leaks that were difficult to find using soapy
water. (At the time, I didn't think to try the ultrasonic leak
detector). So, I over-inflated the inner tube. I think it's probably
26 x 1 3/8:
<https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/inflated-tube.jpg>
Not only did the soapy water detect the leaks, I could hear the air
leak and also feel the air with my fingers. Also, the normal size of
the tire is the mounted tire located behind the over-inflated tire.
If I ever get around to buying a IR camera, I could try heating the >over-inflated tube, and possibly see the air leak because of the
temperature difference.
Teeny little holes (wire, syringe needle, thin glass shard,
thorn) can be hard to find at only moderate inflation. More
air, as you show in image, distends the aperture so it's
easy to feel the escaping air on one's face by passing the
tube across it.
On Tue, 06 May 2025 11:05:06 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
On Tue, 6 May 2025 12:47:56 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Your image shows a typical inflation for tracking down a
leak. Not overly large at all.
I was worried about the excessive stretching of the inner tube causing
the pin-hole to turn into a tear. That won't happen if the tire is in
place because the tire prevents the inner tube from stretching too
much. However, I didn't know how the tube would react and didn't want
to find out the hard way.
Oops. The presure gauge on the floor pump in the picture shows zero
PSI. It might have been safe for me to continue pumping but it didn't
feel quite right at the time: <https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/inflated-tube.jpg>
On Tue, 6 May 2025 12:47:56 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 5/6/2025 12:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 06 May 2025 10:19:59 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>Your image shows a typical inflation for tracking down a
wrote:
I once bought some inner tubes that seem to have come from the factory >>>> with leaks. (...)
A bit more. I didn't have enough patches handy, so I used a small
blob of automotive "gasket maker" to plug the hole.
<https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/black-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-5-oz/>
I didn't ride enough to determine how many months or miles the black
goo was going to last, but it seems like it would work on small pin
holes. I don't recommend it for large punctures, long cuts or cracks.
Also, I had some slow leaks that were difficult to find using soapy
water. (At the time, I didn't think to try the ultrasonic leak
detector). So, I over-inflated the inner tube. I think it's probably
26 x 1 3/8:
<https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/inflated-tube.jpg>
Not only did the soapy water detect the leaks, I could hear the air
leak and also feel the air with my fingers. Also, the normal size of
the tire is the mounted tire located behind the over-inflated tire.
If I ever get around to buying a IR camera, I could try heating the
over-inflated tube, and possibly see the air leak because of the
temperature difference.
leak. Not overly large at all.
I was worried about the excessive stretching of the inner tube causing
the pin-hole to turn into a tear.
That won't happen if the tire is in
place because the tire prevents the inner tube from stretching too
much. However, I didn't know how the tube would react and didn't want
to find out the hard way.
On 5/6/2025 1:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 06 May 2025 10:19:59 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
<jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
I once bought some inner tubes that seem to have come
from the factory
with leaks. (...)
A bit more. I didn't have enough patches handy, so I used
a small
blob of automotive "gasket maker" to plug the hole.
<https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/black-gasket-
makers/permatex-ultra-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-5-oz/>
I didn't ride enough to determine how many months or miles
the black
goo was going to last, but it seems like it would work on
small pin
holes. I don't recommend it for large punctures, long
cuts or cracks.
Please do report back on that once you've got some miles on
the tire. I take it you let it dry in place before
reassembling the tube & tire? That would prevent the
technique from being useful during a ride.
I've never used a compound like that for its intended use,
i.e. replacing gaskets. I've almost always just used the
proper gasket for whatever I was working on. A few times
I've had to cut my own gaskets out of gasket paper. I'd be
interested in feedback here on how well that stuff works. It
looks handy.
Also, I had some slow leaks that were difficult to find
using soapy
water. (At the time, I didn't think to try the ultrasonic
leak
detector). So, I over-inflated the inner tube. I think
it's probably
26 x 1 3/8:
<https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/inflated-
tube.jpg>
Not only did the soapy water detect the leaks, I could
hear the air
leak and also feel the air with my fingers. Also, the
normal size of
the tire is the mounted tire located behind the over-
inflated tire.
I almost always inflate my flatted tubes much more than what
your photo shows. I think it helps a lot. I rarely have to
dunk a tube to find a hole. Passing the inflated tube close
to my face usually allows me to feel the air escaping,
especially if the stream hits my lips or thereabouts.
Working in a quiet basement workshop (where I do most of my
tube patching) also helps a lot, I think.
On Tue, 6 May 2025 14:52:02 -0400, Frank Krygowski
<frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
I doubt that's a real problem. I'd imagine any wires would be lodged in
the tire, not in the tube.
How could the fine wires cause an air leak without puncturing the
inner tube? I could drill a small hole in the tire and as long as the
inner tube is doing its job, the tire will function (fairly) normally.
One exception is if you're riding on tubeless tires, which don't have
an inner tube.
On Tue, 6 May 2025 14:52:02 -0400, Frank Krygowski
<frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
I doubt that's a real problem. I'd imagine any wires would be lodged in
the tire, not in the tube.
How could the fine wires cause an air leak without puncturing the
inner tube?
inner tube is doing its job, the tire will function (fairly) normally.
One exception is if you're riding on tubeless tires, which don't have
an inner tube.
On 5/6/2025 2:05 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 6 May 2025 12:47:56 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 5/6/2025 12:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 06 May 2025 10:19:59 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> >>>> wrote:Your image shows a typical inflation for tracking down a
I once bought some inner tubes that seem to have come from the factory >>>>> with leaks. (...)
A bit more. I didn't have enough patches handy, so I used a small
blob of automotive "gasket maker" to plug the hole.
<https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/black-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-5-oz/>
I didn't ride enough to determine how many months or miles the black
goo was going to last, but it seems like it would work on small pin
holes. I don't recommend it for large punctures, long cuts or cracks. >>>>
Also, I had some slow leaks that were difficult to find using soapy
water. (At the time, I didn't think to try the ultrasonic leak
detector). So, I over-inflated the inner tube. I think it's probably >>>> 26 x 1 3/8:
<https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/inflated-tube.jpg>
Not only did the soapy water detect the leaks, I could hear the air
leak and also feel the air with my fingers. Also, the normal size of
the tire is the mounted tire located behind the over-inflated tire.
If I ever get around to buying a IR camera, I could try heating the
over-inflated tube, and possibly see the air leak because of the
temperature difference.
leak. Not overly large at all.
I was worried about the excessive stretching of the inner tube causing
the pin-hole to turn into a tear.
In the many decades I've been repairing tires, I can honestly say I've
never had that happen when inflating a tube well beyond the rated max >diameter to find a leak.
--That won't happen if the tire is in
place because the tire prevents the inner tube from stretching too
much. However, I didn't know how the tube would react and didn't want
to find out the hard way.
I doubt that's a real problem. I'd imagine any wires would be lodged in
the tire, not in the tube.
On 5/6/2025 2:43 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 6 May 2025 14:52:02 -0400, Frank Krygowski
<frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
I doubt that's a real problem. I'd imagine any wires would be lodged in
the tire, not in the tube.
How could the fine wires cause an air leak without puncturing the
inner tube? I could drill a small hole in the tire and as long as the
inner tube is doing its job, the tire will function (fairly) normally.
One exception is if you're riding on tubeless tires, which don't have
an inner tube.
I've never seen such. The object is normally snug in the
tire casing and protrudes (more or less or a lot less)
through the casing until it just nicks the tube.
Rarities include objects which pass right through the tire--
and are found flopping around in the casing after the tube
is removed. These are typically large objects, larger than
3mm. I've never seen an object fully inside an inner tube.
On Tue, 6 May 2025 14:50:00 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 5/6/2025 2:43 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 6 May 2025 14:52:02 -0400, Frank Krygowski
<frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
I doubt that's a real problem. I'd imagine any wires would be lodged in >>>> the tire, not in the tube.
How could the fine wires cause an air leak without puncturing the
inner tube? I could drill a small hole in the tire and as long as the
inner tube is doing its job, the tire will function (fairly) normally.
One exception is if you're riding on tubeless tires, which don't have
an inner tube.
I've never seen such. The object is normally snug in the
tire casing and protrudes (more or less or a lot less)
through the casing until it just nicks the tube.
OK, got it. I mistakenly assumed that "lodged in the tire" meant that
it had also punctured the inner tube. However, if there is an air
leak, I still think it's a good assumption that the leak is in the
inner tube and not necessarily in only the tire.
Rarities include objects which pass right through the tire
and are found flopping around in the casing after the tube
is removed. These are typically large objects, larger than
3mm. I've never seen an object fully inside an inner tube.
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
On Mon May 5 18:28:41 2025 Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have very good tires on the BMC. (Gatorskins) But it has continuous
problems with slow leaks appearing first in one tire and then the other. >>> The wheels are Campagnolo Sirocco so it is unlikely that there are
imperfections in the rims and I use Specialized tubes whenever I can get >>> the proper size. And yet, when I leave the bike sitting for a month or so >>> one or the other of the tires is nearly fully pumped up and the other completely flat.
Anyone have any suggestions?
What are the punctures can you see any holes? Gatorskins are tough but not >> impervious, could be the value be that a fault or just user error ie isn?t >> fully closed and so on.
They look like hair thin wire punctures bot there are usually no trace of
a wire in the tire inside or out. To even find them you have to pump the tube way up and put it under water and look for a very slow leak which mafes it almost impossible to patch. So I have to replace the innertube.
As long as you can find the hole or the area the patch should be fine, it?s not like tubeless where you need to push the plug in and so on!
If it is just small wires then it?s absolutely the sort of thing that Tubeless is good at! Even if it?s in my naughty books at moment, as I unwisely fitted a far to lightweight rear tyre which has punctured fairly dramatically twice in other a week, great in the front but way too fragile for the rear!
So back to the tyres I?ve been running for almost 10 years!
Many of these leaks are so slow that they are only a bubble every second.
Once located I use a marking pen to make an X but the glue lifts that off and I end up putting the patch in the wrong spot.
Ah, there's the little Yorkie puppy who can't resist yapping about
Tom's posts!
On Wed, 07 May 2025 18:31:31 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
wrote:
Many of these leaks are so slow that they are only a bubble every second.
That describes almost 100% of my "slow leaks" caused by recycled tires
in asphalt.
Once located I use a marking pen to make an X but the glue lifts that off and I end up putting the patch in the wrong spot.
Surely you jest? Next you'll be telling us your saddle "falls off".
LOL
[]'s
Am Mon, 5 May 2025 18:25:26 -0400 schrieb Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@sbcglobal.net>:patch. So I have to replace the innertube.
On 5/5/2025 4:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:...
They look like hair thin wire punctures bot there are usually no trace of a wire in the tire inside or out. To even find them you have to pump the tube way up and put it under water and look for a very slow leak which mafes it almost impossible to
That last bit makes no sense. Over 50+ years of riding I've had plenty
of leaks so slow as to require water submersion to detect. They were all >able to be patched.
Same here, mostly. I had a slow leak once that couldn't be patched
because it was near the valve.
If you don't want to take the time, or don't know how to patch, that's >fine. You're allowed to use new tubes.
Depending on where and how a bike is ridden, I recommend new tubes.
While I sometimes successfully patched tubes on my 12 km commute, I
wouldn't use patched tubes on long distance tours in hilly areas,
anymore. Somebody in de.rec.fahrrad reported a series of tests breaking
hard on fast ridden lang descents, while measuring the rim temperature.
It needs less temperature to unglue a patch than to destroy an unpatched tube.
Patching and then riding a litte more carefully is one thing, but a tube
is cheap enough to avoid that risk.
On Tue, 6 May 2025 12:47:56 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 5/6/2025 12:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 06 May 2025 10:19:59 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>Your image shows a typical inflation for tracking down a
wrote:
I once bought some inner tubes that seem to have come from the factory >>> with leaks. (...)
A bit more. I didn't have enough patches handy, so I used a small
blob of automotive "gasket maker" to plug the hole.
<https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/black-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-5-oz/>
I didn't ride enough to determine how many months or miles the black
goo was going to last, but it seems like it would work on small pin
holes. I don't recommend it for large punctures, long cuts or cracks.
Also, I had some slow leaks that were difficult to find using soapy
water. (At the time, I didn't think to try the ultrasonic leak
detector). So, I over-inflated the inner tube. I think it's probably
26 x 1 3/8:
<https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/inflated-tube.jpg>
Not only did the soapy water detect the leaks, I could hear the air
leak and also feel the air with my fingers. Also, the normal size of
the tire is the mounted tire located behind the over-inflated tire.
If I ever get around to buying a IR camera, I could try heating the
over-inflated tube, and possibly see the air leak because of the
temperature difference.
leak. Not overly large at all.
I was worried about the excessive stretching of the inner tube causing
the pin-hole to turn into a tear. That won't happen if the tire is in
place because the tire prevents the inner tube from stretching too
much. However, I didn't know how the tube would react and didn't want
to find out the hard way.
On Tue, 6 May 2025 13:10:21 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Teeny little holes (wire, syringe needle, thin glass shard,
thorn) can be hard to find at only moderate inflation. More
air, as you show in image, distends the aperture so it's
easy to feel the escaping air on one's face by passing the
tube across it.
No thanks. I use my hands (palms) to detect air leaks. I don't use
my face because I take blood thinners (Plavix). A small cut takes
about 15 minutes to stop bleeding. I had to give up shaving with a
razor blade and switched to an electric face mower. With a razor, I
would arrive to work with partially dried blood stains in difficult to explain places. Band-Aids made it look like I had been in a fight.
Liquid bandages and styptic pencils worked, but if I try to wash off
the sealant, it would start bleeding again. After reading about the
horrors of having almost invisible wire hooks (steel belt cord) cuts,
I don't think that using my face to test for air leaks is a good idea.
On Tue May 6 06:09:07 2025 Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
On Mon May 5 18:28:41 2025 Roger Merriman wrote:As long as you can find the hole or the area the patch should be fine, it?s >> not like tubeless where you need to push the plug in and so on!
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have very good tires on the BMC. (Gatorskins) But it has continuous >>>>> problems with slow leaks appearing first in one tire and then the other. >>>>> The wheels are Campagnolo Sirocco so it is unlikely that there are
imperfections in the rims and I use Specialized tubes whenever I can get >>>>> the proper size. And yet, when I leave the bike sitting for a month or so >>>>> one or the other of the tires is nearly fully pumped up and the other completely flat.
Anyone have any suggestions?
What are the punctures can you see any holes? Gatorskins are tough but not >>>> impervious, could be the value be that a fault or just user error ie isn?t >>>> fully closed and so on.
They look like hair thin wire punctures bot there are usually no trace of >>> a wire in the tire inside or out. To even find them you have to pump the >>> tube way up and put it under water and look for a very slow leak which
mafes it almost impossible to patch. So I have to replace the innertube. >>>
If it is just small wires then it?s absolutely the sort of thing that
Tubeless is good at! Even if it?s in my naughty books at moment, as I
unwisely fitted a far to lightweight rear tyre which has punctured fairly
dramatically twice in other a week, great in the front but way too fragile >> for the rear!
So back to the tyres I?ve been running for almost 10 years!
Many of these leaks are so slow that they are only a bubble every second. Once located I use a marking pen to make an X but the glue lifts that off
and I end up putting the patch in the wrong spot.
On Tue May 6 11:31:53 2025 Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 6 May 2025 13:10:21 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Teeny little holes (wire, syringe needle, thin glass shard,
thorn) can be hard to find at only moderate inflation. More
air, as you show in image, distends the aperture so it's
easy to feel the escaping air on one's face by passing the
tube across it.
No thanks. I use my hands (palms) to detect air leaks. I don't use
my face because I take blood thinners (Plavix). A small cut takes
about 15 minutes to stop bleeding. I had to give up shaving with a
razor blade and switched to an electric face mower. With a razor, I
would arrive to work with partially dried blood stains in difficult to
explain places. Band-Aids made it look like I had been in a fight.
Liquid bandages and styptic pencils worked, but if I try to wash off
the sealant, it would start bleeding again. After reading about the
horrors of having almost invisible wire hooks (steel belt cord) cuts,
I don't think that using my face to test for air leaks is a good idea.
After my stroke they put me on statins and aspirin and my blood still clots rapidly.
Many of these leaks are so slow that they are only a bubble every second. Once located I use a marking pen to make an X but the glue lifts that off and I end up putting the patch in the wrong spot.
On Mon May 5 18:25:26 2025 Frank Krygowski wrote:patch. So I have to replace the innertube.
On 5/5/2025 4:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon May 5 18:28:41 2025 Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have very good tires on the BMC. (Gatorskins) But it has continuous >>>>> problems with slow leaks appearing first in one tire and then the other. >>>>> The wheels are Campagnolo Sirocco so it is unlikely that there are
imperfections in the rims and I use Specialized tubes whenever I can get >>>>> the proper size. And yet, when I leave the bike sitting for a month or so >>>>> one or the other of the tires is nearly fully pumped up and the other completely flat.
Anyone have any suggestions?
What are the punctures can you see any holes? Gatorskins are tough but not >>>> impervious, could be the value be that a fault or just user error ie isn?t >>>> fully closed and so on.
They look like hair thin wire punctures bot there are usually no trace of a wire in the tire inside or out. To even find them you have to pump the tube way up and put it under water and look for a very slow leak which mafes it almost impossible to
That last bit makes no sense. Over 50+ years of riding I've had plenty
of leaks so slow as to require water submersion to detect. They were all
able to be patched.
If you don't want to take the time, or don't know how to patch, that's
fine. You're allowed to use new tubes.
But overall: _SO_ many problems! ;-)
Very typical answer from a meathead - he is the only one smart enough to patch a tire.
On 5/7/2025 2:31 PM, cyclintom wrote:
Many of these leaks are so slow that they are only a
bubble every second. Once located I use a marking pen to
make an X but the glue lifts that off and I end up putting
the patch in the wrong spot.
SMH
I mark such leaks with four "dashes," like crosshairs maybe
half an inch away. The hole is where they would intersect if
extended.
But I doubt that would work for you. Who knows why?
On 5/7/2025 2:33 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon May 5 18:25:26 2025 Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 5/5/2025 4:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon May 5 18:28:41 2025 Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have very good tires on the BMC. (Gatorskins) But it has continuous >>>>>> problems with slow leaks appearing first in one tire and then the other. >>>>>> The wheels are Campagnolo Sirocco so it is unlikely that there are >>>>>> imperfections in the rims and I use Specialized tubes whenever I can get >>>>>> the proper size. And yet, when I leave the bike sitting for a month or so
one or the other of the tires is nearly fully pumped up and the other completely flat.
Anyone have any suggestions?
What are the punctures can you see any holes? Gatorskins are tough but not
impervious, could be the value be that a fault or just user error ie isn?t
fully closed and so on.
They look like hair thin wire punctures bot there are usually no trace >>>> of a wire in the tire inside or out. To even find them you have to
pump the tube way up and put it under water and look for a very slow
leak which mafes it almost impossible to patch. So I have to replace the innertube.
That last bit makes no sense. Over 50+ years of riding I've had plenty
of leaks so slow as to require water submersion to detect. They were all >>> able to be patched.
If you don't want to take the time, or don't know how to patch, that's
fine. You're allowed to use new tubes.
But overall: _SO_ many problems! ;-)
Very typical answer from a meathead - he is the only one smart enough to patch a tire.
On the contrary, it sounds like everyone here can patch a tire except
one guy!
On 5/7/2025 2:33 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon May 5 18:25:26 2025 Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 5/5/2025 4:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon May 5 18:28:41 2025 Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have very good tires on the BMC. (Gatorskins) But it has continuous >>>>>> problems with slow leaks appearing first in one tire and then the
other.
The wheels are Campagnolo Sirocco so it is unlikely that there are >>>>>> imperfections in the rims and I use Specialized tubes whenever I
can get
the proper size. And yet, when I leave the bike sitting for a
month or so
one or the other of the tires is nearly fully pumped up and the
other completely flat.
Anyone have any suggestions?
What are the punctures can you see any holes? Gatorskins are tough
but not
impervious, could be the value be that a fault or just user error
ie isn?t
fully closed and so on.
They look like hair thin wire punctures bot there are usually no
trace of a wire in the tire inside or out. To even find them you
have to pump the tube way up and put it under water and look for a
very slow leak which mafes it almost impossible to patch. So I have
to replace the innertube.
That last bit makes no sense. Over 50+ years of riding I've had plenty
of leaks so slow as to require water submersion to detect. They were all >>> able to be patched.
If you don't want to take the time, or don't know how to patch, that's
fine. You're allowed to use new tubes.
But overall: _SO_ many problems! ;-)
Very typical answer from a meathead - he is the only one smart enough
to patch a tire.
On the contrary, it sounds like everyone here can patch a tire except
one guy!
I swap the tube out roadside and patch at home.
On 5/9/2025 4:41 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
I swap the tube out roadside and patch at home.
So do I. My patching equipment is nicely sorted and organized. It's much easier to patch a tube in my workshop.
On Thu May 8 20:10:23 2025 Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 5/7/2025 2:33 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon May 5 18:25:26 2025 Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 5/5/2025 4:22 PM, cyclintom wrote:
On Mon May 5 18:28:41 2025 Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have very good tires on the BMC. (Gatorskins) But it has continuous >>>>>>> problems with slow leaks appearing first in one tire and then the other.
The wheels are Campagnolo Sirocco so it is unlikely that there are >>>>>>> imperfections in the rims and I use Specialized tubes whenever I can get
the proper size. And yet, when I leave the bike sitting for a month or so
one or the other of the tires is nearly fully pumped up and the
other completely flat.
Anyone have any suggestions?
What are the punctures can you see any holes? Gatorskins are tough but not
impervious, could be the value be that a fault or just user error ie isn?t
fully closed and so on.
They look like hair thin wire punctures bot there are usually no
trace of a wire in the tire inside or out. To even find them you have >>>>> to pump the tube way up and put it under water and look for a very
slow leak which mafes it almost impossible to patch. So I have to
replace the innertube.
That last bit makes no sense. Over 50+ years of riding I've had plenty >>>> of leaks so slow as to require water submersion to detect. They were all >>>> able to be patched.
If you don't want to take the time, or don't know how to patch, that's >>>> fine. You're allowed to use new tubes.
But overall: _SO_ many problems! ;-)
Very typical answer from a meathead - he is the only one smart enough to patch a tire.
On the contrary, it sounds like everyone here can patch a tire except
one guy!
You never get punctures because you never ride.
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
On Thu May 8 20:10:23 2025 Frank Krygowski wrote:
On the contrary, it sounds like everyone here can patch a tire except
one guy!
You never get punctures because you never ride.
He has a touring bike, they tend to be fitted with rather more robust tyres...
On 5/11/2025 3:50 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com> wrote:
On Thu May 8 20:10:23 2025 Frank Krygowski wrote:
On the contrary, it sounds like everyone here can patch a tire except
one guy!
You never get punctures because you never ride.
He has a touring bike, they tend to be fitted with rather more robust
tyres...
My touring bike has had Panaracer Paselas for many years. When one good friend died, I inherited a Pasela with some extra flat protection -
maybe called "Tourguard" or something? (I forget, and I'm not home to
check.) But I don't think I've mounted that one yet.
I get few flats, which I credit mostly to riding away from the road
edge. Car tires sweep the road clean where they touch the pavement.
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/11/2025 3:50 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
He has a touring bike, they tend to be fitted with rather more robust
tyres...
My touring bike has had Panaracer Paselas for many years. When one good
friend died, I inherited a Pasela with some extra flat protection -
maybe called "Tourguard" or something? (I forget, and I'm not home to
check.) But I don't think I've mounted that one yet.
Even so they would be thicker casing than the Gatorskins plus more tread...
On 5/12/2025 7:03 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/11/2025 3:50 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
He has a touring bike, they tend to be fitted with rather more robust
tyres...
My touring bike has had Panaracer Paselas for many years. When one good
friend died, I inherited a Pasela with some extra flat protection -
maybe called "Tourguard" or something? (I forget, and I'm not home to
check.) But I don't think I've mounted that one yet.
Even so they would be thicker casing than the Gatorskins plus more tread...
I don't know that's true. I've used Gatorskins on our tandem for years.
I never noticed any great difference in tread thickness between the two
types of tires.
But admittedly, the tandem is a very different sort of beast.
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/12/2025 7:03 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:I don't know that's true. I've used Gatorskins on our tandem for years.
On 5/11/2025 3:50 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
He has a touring bike, they tend to be fitted with rather more robust >>>>> tyres...
My touring bike has had Panaracer Paselas for many years. When one good >>>> friend died, I inherited a Pasela with some extra flat protection -
maybe called "Tourguard" or something? (I forget, and I'm not home to
check.) But I don't think I've mounted that one yet.
Even so they would be thicker casing than the Gatorskins plus more tread... >>
I never noticed any great difference in tread thickness between the two
types of tires.
<https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com> says 3.6 mm vs 3.2mm for the >casing and another 1mm or so of tread? They do seem though to have same >weight, clearly they are much thinner than a Marathon or similar.
But Ive never used the Pasela, though I have used the Gatorskins if quite
a long time ago now!
Fair bit more weight and load on the sidewalls Id guess!
But admittedly, the tandem is a very different sort of beast.
Roger Merriman
On 12 May 2025 20:47:41 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/12/2025 7:03 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/11/2025 3:50 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
He has a touring bike, they tend to be fitted with rather more robust >>>>>> tyres...
My touring bike has had Panaracer Paselas for many years. When one good >>>>> friend died, I inherited a Pasela with some extra flat protection -
maybe called "Tourguard" or something? (I forget, and I'm not home to >>>>> check.) But I don't think I've mounted that one yet.
Even so they would be thicker casing than the Gatorskins plus more tread...
I don't know that's true. I've used Gatorskins on our tandem for years.
I never noticed any great difference in tread thickness between the two
types of tires.
<https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com> says 3.6 mm vs 3.2mm for the
casing and another 1mm or so of tread? They do seem though to have same
weight, clearly they are much thinner than a Marathon or similar.
But Ive never used the Pasela, though I have used the Gatorskins if quite >> a long time ago now!
Fair bit more weight and load on the sidewalls Id guess!
But admittedly, the tandem is a very different sort of beast.
Roger Merriman
If you're going to mention Schwalbe Marathon tires, you need to
specify which one. There are several and they're all different.
https://www.schwalbetires.com/search?search=marathon
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On 12 May 2025 20:47:41 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/12/2025 7:03 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/11/2025 3:50 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
He has a touring bike, they tend to be fitted with rather more robust >>>>>>> tyres...
My touring bike has had Panaracer Paselas for many years. When one good >>>>>> friend died, I inherited a Pasela with some extra flat protection - >>>>>> maybe called "Tourguard" or something? (I forget, and I'm not home to >>>>>> check.) But I don't think I've mounted that one yet.
Even so they would be thicker casing than the Gatorskins plus more tread...
I don't know that's true. I've used Gatorskins on our tandem for years. >>>> I never noticed any great difference in tread thickness between the two >>>> types of tires.
<https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com> says 3.6 mm vs 3.2mm for the
casing and another 1mm or so of tread? They do seem though to have same
weight, clearly they are much thinner than a Marathon or similar.
But I?ve never used the Pasela, though I have used the Gatorskins if quite >>> a long time ago now!
Fair bit more weight and load on the sidewalls I?d guess!
But admittedly, the tandem is a very different sort of beast.
Roger Merriman
If you're going to mention Schwalbe Marathon tires, you need to
specify which one. There are several and they're all different.
https://www.schwalbetires.com/search?search=marathon
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Not that different, the standard Marathon is that a standard normal
Marathon, some with variation in tread design but broadly quite similar,
There is the Plus variants of which Ive used two out of the three tyres >namely the Marathon plus and the Marathon touring plus, both are fairly >similar in use, both can cope with some mud on a path, but are overwhelming >by even quite mild amounts. ie the tread cant clear Id expect the MTB >variation to behave similarly for similar reasons.
Even gravel bike tyres tend to be less drifty and clear better.
Roger Merriman
On 13 May 2025 09:16:02 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On 12 May 2025 20:47:41 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/12/2025 7:03 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/11/2025 3:50 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
He has a touring bike, they tend to be fitted with rather more robust >>>>>>>> tyres...
My touring bike has had Panaracer Paselas for many years. When one good >>>>>>> friend died, I inherited a Pasela with some extra flat protection - >>>>>>> maybe called "Tourguard" or something? (I forget, and I'm not home to >>>>>>> check.) But I don't think I've mounted that one yet.
Even so they would be thicker casing than the Gatorskins plus more tread...
I don't know that's true. I've used Gatorskins on our tandem for years. >>>>> I never noticed any great difference in tread thickness between the two >>>>> types of tires.
<https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com> says 3.6 mm vs 3.2mm for the >>>> casing and another 1mm or so of tread? They do seem though to have same >>>> weight, clearly they are much thinner than a Marathon or similar.
But I?ve never used the Pasela, though I have used the Gatorskins if quite >>>> a long time ago now!
Fair bit more weight and load on the sidewalls I?d guess!
But admittedly, the tandem is a very different sort of beast.
Roger Merriman
If you're going to mention Schwalbe Marathon tires, you need to
specify which one. There are several and they're all different.
https://www.schwalbetires.com/search?search=marathon
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Not that different, the standard Marathon is that a standard normal
Marathon, some with variation in tread design but broadly quite similar,
There is the Plus variants of which Ive used two out of the three tyres
namely the Marathon plus and the Marathon touring plus, both are fairly
similar in use, both can cope with some mud on a path, but are overwhelming >> by even quite mild amounts. ie the tread cant clear Id expect the MTB
variation to behave similarly for similar reasons.
Even gravel bike tyres tend to be less drifty and clear better.
Roger Merriman
There is no "normal standard Marathon" tire. Most of the Marathon
tires are quite different from each other and perform differently.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On 13 May 2025 09:16:02 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On 12 May 2025 20:47:41 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/12/2025 7:03 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/11/2025 3:50 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
He has a touring bike, they tend to be fitted with rather more robust >>>>>>>>> tyres...
My touring bike has had Panaracer Paselas for many years. When one good
friend died, I inherited a Pasela with some extra flat protection - >>>>>>>> maybe called "Tourguard" or something? (I forget, and I'm not home to >>>>>>>> check.) But I don't think I've mounted that one yet.
Even so they would be thicker casing than the Gatorskins plus more tread...
I don't know that's true. I've used Gatorskins on our tandem for years. >>>>>> I never noticed any great difference in tread thickness between the two >>>>>> types of tires.
<https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com> says 3.6 mm vs 3.2mm for the >>>>> casing and another 1mm or so of tread? They do seem though to have same >>>>> weight, clearly they are much thinner than a Marathon or similar.
But I?ve never used the Pasela, though I have used the Gatorskins if quite
a long time ago now!
Fair bit more weight and load on the sidewalls I?d guess!
But admittedly, the tandem is a very different sort of beast.
Roger Merriman
If you're going to mention Schwalbe Marathon tires, you need to
specify which one. There are several and they're all different.
https://www.schwalbetires.com/search?search=marathon
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Not that different, the standard Marathon is that a standard normal
Marathon, some with variation in tread design but broadly quite similar, >>>
There is the Plus variants of which I?ve used two out of the three tyres >>> namely the Marathon plus and the Marathon touring plus, both are fairly
similar in use, both can cope with some mud on a path, but are overwhelming >>> by even quite mild amounts. ie the tread can?t clear I?d expect the MTB
variation to behave similarly for similar reasons.
Even gravel bike tyres tend to be less drifty and clear better.
Roger Merriman
There is no "normal standard Marathon" tire. Most of the Marathon
tires are quite different from each other and perform differently.
<https://www.schwalbetires.com/Marathon-11100150> there are minor
variations in tread patterns such as the marathon green, or racer, as a
range its quite homogeneous with the main difference in behaviour being
the plus versions have a harsher ride, due to stiffer sidewalls.
The tread is all fairly closely packed and almost entirely cosmetic, my old >Commute bike which used to have Marathon tour plus tyres which has more >substantial tread than the big apples but behaves the same off road, in
that though the blocks are deeper they are still closely packed and so
squirm on mud as they cant get mechanical traction, and have no ability to >bite in gravel or wet grass etc.
Very different to say MTB or Gravel tyres which can have quite different >characteristics despite looking reasonably similar.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Roger Merriman
On 13 May 2025 16:19:16 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On 13 May 2025 09:16:02 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On 12 May 2025 20:47:41 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote: >>>>>
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/12/2025 7:03 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/11/2025 3:50 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
He has a touring bike, they tend to be fitted with rather more robust
tyres...
My touring bike has had Panaracer Paselas for many years. When one good
friend died, I inherited a Pasela with some extra flat protection - >>>>>>>>> maybe called "Tourguard" or something? (I forget, and I'm not home to >>>>>>>>> check.) But I don't think I've mounted that one yet.
Even so they would be thicker casing than the Gatorskins plus more tread...
I don't know that's true. I've used Gatorskins on our tandem for years. >>>>>>> I never noticed any great difference in tread thickness between the two >>>>>>> types of tires.
<https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com> says 3.6 mm vs 3.2mm for the >>>>>> casing and another 1mm or so of tread? They do seem though to have same >>>>>> weight, clearly they are much thinner than a Marathon or similar.
But I?ve never used the Pasela, though I have used the Gatorskins if quite
a long time ago now!
Fair bit more weight and load on the sidewalls I?d guess!
But admittedly, the tandem is a very different sort of beast.
Roger Merriman
If you're going to mention Schwalbe Marathon tires, you need to
specify which one. There are several and they're all different.
https://www.schwalbetires.com/search?search=marathon
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Not that different, the standard Marathon is that a standard normal
Marathon, some with variation in tread design but broadly quite similar, >>>>
There is the Plus variants of which I?ve used two out of the three tyres >>>> namely the Marathon plus and the Marathon touring plus, both are fairly >>>> similar in use, both can cope with some mud on a path, but are overwhelming
by even quite mild amounts. ie the tread can?t clear I?d expect the MTB >>>> variation to behave similarly for similar reasons.
Even gravel bike tyres tend to be less drifty and clear better.
Roger Merriman
There is no "normal standard Marathon" tire. Most of the Marathon
tires are quite different from each other and perform differently.
<https://www.schwalbetires.com/Marathon-11100150> there are minor
variations in tread patterns such as the marathon green, or racer, as a
range its quite homogeneous with the main difference in behaviour being
the plus versions have a harsher ride, due to stiffer sidewalls.
The tread is all fairly closely packed and almost entirely cosmetic, my old >> Commute bike which used to have Marathon tour plus tyres which has more
substantial tread than the big apples but behaves the same off road, in
that though the blocks are deeper they are still closely packed and so
squirm on mud as they cant get mechanical traction, and have no ability to >> bite in gravel or wet grass etc.
Very different to say MTB or Gravel tyres which can have quite different
characteristics despite looking reasonably similar.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Roger Merriman
It's not aboiut the tread, which is cosmetic for roadbikes. It's
underneath the tread that makes them different.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On 13 May 2025 16:19:16 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On 13 May 2025 09:16:02 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On 12 May 2025 20:47:41 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote: >>>>>>
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/12/2025 7:03 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/11/2025 3:50 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
He has a touring bike, they tend to be fitted with rather more robust
tyres...
My touring bike has had Panaracer Paselas for many years. When one good
friend died, I inherited a Pasela with some extra flat protection - >>>>>>>>>> maybe called "Tourguard" or something? (I forget, and I'm not home to
check.) But I don't think I've mounted that one yet.
Even so they would be thicker casing than the Gatorskins plus more tread...
I don't know that's true. I've used Gatorskins on our tandem for years.
I never noticed any great difference in tread thickness between the two
types of tires.
<https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com> says 3.6 mm vs 3.2mm for the >>>>>>> casing and another 1mm or so of tread? They do seem though to have same >>>>>>> weight, clearly they are much thinner than a Marathon or similar. >>>>>>>
But I?ve never used the Pasela, though I have used the Gatorskins if quite
a long time ago now!
Fair bit more weight and load on the sidewalls I?d guess!
But admittedly, the tandem is a very different sort of beast.
Roger Merriman
If you're going to mention Schwalbe Marathon tires, you need to
specify which one. There are several and they're all different.
https://www.schwalbetires.com/search?search=marathon
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Not that different, the standard Marathon is that a standard normal
Marathon, some with variation in tread design but broadly quite similar, >>>>>
There is the Plus variants of which I?ve used two out of the three tyres >>>>> namely the Marathon plus and the Marathon touring plus, both are fairly >>>>> similar in use, both can cope with some mud on a path, but are overwhelming
by even quite mild amounts. ie the tread can?t clear I?d expect the MTB >>>>> variation to behave similarly for similar reasons.
Even gravel bike tyres tend to be less drifty and clear better.
Roger Merriman
There is no "normal standard Marathon" tire. Most of the Marathon
tires are quite different from each other and perform differently.
<https://www.schwalbetires.com/Marathon-11100150> there are minor
variations in tread patterns such as the marathon green, or racer, as a
range it?s quite homogeneous with the main difference in behaviour being >>> the plus versions have a harsher ride, due to stiffer sidewalls.
The tread is all fairly closely packed and almost entirely cosmetic, my old >>> Commute bike which used to have Marathon tour plus tyres which has more
substantial tread than the big apples but behaves the same off road, in
that though the blocks are deeper they are still closely packed and so
squirm on mud as they can?t get mechanical traction, and have no ability to >>> bite in gravel or wet grass etc.
Very different to say MTB or Gravel tyres which can have quite different >>> characteristics despite looking reasonably similar.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Roger Merriman
It's not aboiut the tread, which is cosmetic for roadbikes. It's
underneath the tread that makes them different.
The carcass is same across the range, with the difference being the plus or >non plus versions mainly that the plus versions, have a much harsher ride, >something Im glad to report that the One plus the roadie line with plus >doesnt suffer from.
Is I think a version with Addix (mildly racier compound) but very much
still a good hybrid/commuting tyre with different styles with minor >differences, note even off road the tread because its close packed makes >little difference.
Much bigger difference once you step out of the family to stuff like Big >Apples and the like, though they are still hybrid commuting type of things >but they have much more supple ride etc.
Roger Merriman
--
C'est bon
Soloman
On 13 May 2025 18:54:19 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On 13 May 2025 16:19:16 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On 13 May 2025 09:16:02 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote: >>>>>
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On 12 May 2025 20:47:41 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote: >>>>>>>
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/12/2025 7:03 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/11/2025 3:50 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
He has a touring bike, they tend to be fitted with rather more robust
tyres...
My touring bike has had Panaracer Paselas for many years. When one good
friend died, I inherited a Pasela with some extra flat protection - >>>>>>>>>>> maybe called "Tourguard" or something? (I forget, and I'm not home to
check.) But I don't think I've mounted that one yet.
Even so they would be thicker casing than the Gatorskins plus more tread...
I don't know that's true. I've used Gatorskins on our tandem for years.
I never noticed any great difference in tread thickness between the two
types of tires.
<https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com> says 3.6 mm vs 3.2mm for the
casing and another 1mm or so of tread? They do seem though to have same
weight, clearly they are much thinner than a Marathon or similar. >>>>>>>>
But I?ve never used the Pasela, though I have used the Gatorskins if quite
a long time ago now!
Fair bit more weight and load on the sidewalls I?d guess!
But admittedly, the tandem is a very different sort of beast. >>>>>>>>>
Roger Merriman
If you're going to mention Schwalbe Marathon tires, you need to
specify which one. There are several and they're all different.
https://www.schwalbetires.com/search?search=marathon
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Not that different, the standard Marathon is that a standard normal >>>>>> Marathon, some with variation in tread design but broadly quite similar, >>>>>>
There is the Plus variants of which I?ve used two out of the three tyres >>>>>> namely the Marathon plus and the Marathon touring plus, both are fairly >>>>>> similar in use, both can cope with some mud on a path, but are overwhelming
by even quite mild amounts. ie the tread can?t clear I?d expect the MTB >>>>>> variation to behave similarly for similar reasons.
Even gravel bike tyres tend to be less drifty and clear better.
Roger Merriman
There is no "normal standard Marathon" tire. Most of the Marathon
tires are quite different from each other and perform differently.
<https://www.schwalbetires.com/Marathon-11100150> there are minor
variations in tread patterns such as the marathon green, or racer, as a >>>> range it?s quite homogeneous with the main difference in behaviour being >>>> the plus versions have a harsher ride, due to stiffer sidewalls.
The tread is all fairly closely packed and almost entirely cosmetic, my old
Commute bike which used to have Marathon tour plus tyres which has more >>>> substantial tread than the big apples but behaves the same off road, in >>>> that though the blocks are deeper they are still closely packed and so >>>> squirm on mud as they can?t get mechanical traction, and have no ability to
bite in gravel or wet grass etc.
Very different to say MTB or Gravel tyres which can have quite different >>>> characteristics despite looking reasonably similar.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Roger Merriman
It's not aboiut the tread, which is cosmetic for roadbikes. It's
underneath the tread that makes them different.
The carcass is same across the range, with the difference being the plus or >> non plus versions mainly that the plus versions, have a much harsher ride, >> something Im glad to report that the One plus the roadie line with plus
doesnt suffer from.
Is I think a version with Addix (mildly racier compound) but very much
still a good hybrid/commuting tyre with different styles with minor
differences, note even off road the tread because its close packed makes >> little difference.
Much bigger difference once you step out of the family to stuff like Big
Apples and the like, though they are still hybrid commuting type of things >> but they have much more supple ride etc.
Roger Merriman
--
C'est bon
Soloman
It's the layer under the tread that sets them apart and makes them
perform diferently. Schwalbe calls it the protection level, and it has
a big effect on performance, not just in puncture resistance, but in
rolling resistance. The "plus" versions with the heavy layer are
slower enough for me to have notices, and the lighter layer on the
Racer tires are sigificantly slower than the Green Guards according to
my tests on asphalt.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Yup: "Once located I use a marking pen to make an X but the glue lifts
that off and I end up putting the patch in the wrong spot."
Can't say I've _ever_ heard of that problem
On Fri May 9 06:36:05 2025 zen cycle wrote:
Yup: "Once located I use a marking pen to make an X but the glue lifts
that off and I end up putting the patch in the wrong spot."
Can't say I've _ever_ heard of that problem
Only you could mark the tiny leak with an "X"\, put a spot of glue on it, rub the glue around and then be able to see the "X" through the glue carrier.
Tell us again about how you averaged over 17 mph for an entire year of riding. I particularly like that one.
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On 13 May 2025 09:16:02 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Catrike Ryder <Soloman@old.bikers.org> wrote:
On 12 May 2025 20:47:41 GMT, Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/12/2025 7:03 AM, Roger Merriman wrote:
Frank Krygowski <frkrygow@gXXmail.com> wrote:
On 5/11/2025 3:50 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
He has a touring bike, they tend to be fitted with rather more robust >>>>>>>>> tyres...
My touring bike has had Panaracer Paselas for many years. When one good
friend died, I inherited a Pasela with some extra flat protection - >>>>>>>> maybe called "Tourguard" or something? (I forget, and I'm not home to >>>>>>>> check.) But I don't think I've mounted that one yet.
Even so they would be thicker casing than the Gatorskins plus more tread...
I don't know that's true. I've used Gatorskins on our tandem for years. >>>>>> I never noticed any great difference in tread thickness between the two >>>>>> types of tires.
<https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com> says 3.6 mm vs 3.2mm for the >>>>> casing and another 1mm or so of tread? They do seem though to have same >>>>> weight, clearly they are much thinner than a Marathon or similar.
But I?ve never used the Pasela, though I have used the Gatorskins if quite
a long time ago now!
Fair bit more weight and load on the sidewalls I?d guess!
But admittedly, the tandem is a very different sort of beast.
Roger Merriman
If you're going to mention Schwalbe Marathon tires, you need to
specify which one. There are several and they're all different.
https://www.schwalbetires.com/search?search=marathon
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Not that different, the standard Marathon is that a standard normal
Marathon, some with variation in tread design but broadly quite similar, >>>
There is the Plus variants of which I?ve used two out of the three tyres >>> namely the Marathon plus and the Marathon touring plus, both are fairly
similar in use, both can cope with some mud on a path, but are overwhelming >>> by even quite mild amounts. ie the tread can?t clear I?d expect the MTB
variation to behave similarly for similar reasons.
Even gravel bike tyres tend to be less drifty and clear better.
Roger Merriman
There is no "normal standard Marathon" tire. Most of the Marathon
tires are quite different from each other and perform differently.
<https://www.schwalbetires.com/Marathon-11100150> there are minor
variations in tread patterns such as the marathon green, or racer, as a
range its quite homogeneous with the main difference in behaviour being
the plus versions have a harsher ride, due to stiffer sidewalls.
The tread is all fairly closely packed and almost entirely cosmetic, my old >Commute bike which used to have Marathon tour plus tyres which has more >substantial tread than the big apples but behaves the same off road, in
that though the blocks are deeper they are still closely packed and so
squirm on mud as they cant get mechanical traction, and have no ability to >bite in gravel or wet grass etc.
Very different to say MTB or Gravel tyres which can have quite different >characteristics despite looking reasonably similar.
--
C'est bon
Soloman
Roger Merriman
On Fri May 9 06:36:05 2025 zen cycle wrote:
Yup: "Once located I use a marking pen to make an X but the glue lifts
that off and I end up putting the patch in the wrong spot."
Can't say I've _ever_ heard of that problem
Only you could mark the tiny leak with an "X"\, put a spot of glue on it, rub the glue around and then be able to see the "X" through the glue carrier.
Tell us again about how you averaged over 17 mph for an entire year of riding. I particularly like that one.
On Wed, 14 May 2025 00:16:37 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
wrote:
On Fri May 9 06:36:05 2025 zen cycle wrote:
Yup: "Once located I use a marking pen to make an X but the glue lifts
that off and I end up putting the patch in the wrong spot."
Can't say I've _ever_ heard of that problem
Only you could mark the tiny leak with an "X"\, put a spot of glue on it, rub the glue around and then be able to see the "X" through the glue carrier.
Tom... That was the method that YOU mentioned (except for where you
added the "rub the glue" part) which was not included in YOUR original
tale of woe[1].
<https://www.novabbs.com/tech/article-flat.php?id=125411&group=rec.bicycles.tech#125411>
"Many of these leaks are so slow that they are only a bubble every
second. Once located I use a marking pen to make an X but the glue
lifts that off and I end up putting the patch in the wrong spot."
Tell us again about how you averaged over 17 mph for an entire year of riding. I particularly like that one.
Are you shopping for a topic change?
[1] You didn't mention the color of the "marking pen". A black pen
on a black inner tube doesn't work. The found ink in a common
"marking pen" will smear if you try to cover it with a solvent based
blob of glue. See "check washing" for how it's done. You might have
a chance if you use "gel" glue, which does not smear with solvent. It
seems to me that you've never actually done what you're suggesting.
On 5/6/2025 3:24 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 6 May 2025 14:50:00 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 5/6/2025 2:43 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 6 May 2025 14:52:02 -0400, Frank Krygowski
<frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
I doubt that's a real problem. I'd imagine any wires would be lodged in >>>> the tire, not in the tube.
How could the fine wires cause an air leak without puncturing the
inner tube? I could drill a small hole in the tire and as long as the >>> inner tube is doing its job, the tire will function (fairly) normally. >>>
One exception is if you're riding on tubeless tires, which don't have
an inner tube.
I've never seen such. The object is normally snug in the
tire casing and protrudes (more or less or a lot less)
through the casing until it just nicks the tube.
OK, got it. I mistakenly assumed that "lodged in the tire" meant that
it had also punctured the inner tube. However, if there is an air
leak, I still think it's a good assumption that the leak is in the
inner tube and not necessarily in only the tire.
Rarities include objects which pass right through the tire
and are found flopping around in the casing after the tube
is removed. These are typically large objects, larger than
3mm. I've never seen an object fully inside an inner tube.
"the leak is in the inner tube and not necessarily in only
the tire."
Absolutely and exclusively in the tube.
In fact, many tires (non-tubeless) are quite permeable. This
is observed when changing a flat on a wet tire- bubbles
appear along the sidewalls while inflating as the air
between tube and casing is forced out.
The casing fabric need only be intact and uniform, not
airtight. Tread is nice but not critical (you can ride,
just maybe not so far as the casing will abrade and shred).
Damaged (bruised or sliced) casings will appear lumpy or
squiggly like scoliosis and ought to be replaced at the
rider's earliest convenience as the fabric will continue to
tear away from the injury. Destroyed casings are anything
with a hole or slit big enough to see through (maybe larger
for low pressure MTB tires) . Those will not contain a tube
under riding pressure and must be replaced.
On Tue May 6 15:41:05 2025 AMuzi wrote:
On 5/6/2025 3:24 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 6 May 2025 14:50:00 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
On 5/6/2025 2:43 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 6 May 2025 14:52:02 -0400, Frank Krygowski
<frkrygow@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
I doubt that's a real problem. I'd imagine any wires would be lodged in >>>>>> the tire, not in the tube.
How could the fine wires cause an air leak without puncturing the
inner tube? I could drill a small hole in the tire and as long as the >>>>> inner tube is doing its job, the tire will function (fairly) normally. >>>>>
One exception is if you're riding on tubeless tires, which don't have >>>>> an inner tube.
I've never seen such. The object is normally snug in the
tire casing and protrudes (more or less or a lot less)
through the casing until it just nicks the tube.
OK, got it. I mistakenly assumed that "lodged in the tire" meant that
it had also punctured the inner tube. However, if there is an air
leak, I still think it's a good assumption that the leak is in the
inner tube and not necessarily in only the tire.
Rarities include objects which pass right through the tire
and are found flopping around in the casing after the tube
is removed. These are typically large objects, larger than
3mm. I've never seen an object fully inside an inner tube.
"the leak is in the inner tube and not necessarily in only
the tire."
Absolutely and exclusively in the tube.
In fact, many tires (non-tubeless) are quite permeable. This
is observed when changing a flat on a wet tire- bubbles
appear along the sidewalls while inflating as the air
between tube and casing is forced out.
The casing fabric need only be intact and uniform, not
airtight. Tread is nice but not critical (you can ride,
just maybe not so far as the casing will abrade and shred).
Damaged (bruised or sliced) casings will appear lumpy or
squiggly like scoliosis and ought to be replaced at the
rider's earliest convenience as the fabric will continue to
tear away from the injury. Destroyed casings are anything
with a hole or slit big enough to see through (maybe larger
for low pressure MTB tires) . Those will not contain a tube
under riding pressure and must be replaced.
I've been using Specialized tubes and it appears that their light construction is the cause of these slow leaks. Trek innertubes do not give me these problems. Now if we can get Liebermann to stop talking as if he has repaired an innertube in the last30 years and Flunky to stop pretending that the carrier in the glues doesn't lift the marker pin ink we can actually address the actual subject.
Now if we can get Liebermann to stop talking as if he has repaired aninnertube in the last 30 years and Flunky to stop pretending that the
On Wed, 07 May 2025 20:44:02 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
wrote:
On Tue May 6 11:31:53 2025 Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 6 May 2025 13:10:21 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Teeny little holes (wire, syringe needle, thin glass shard,
thorn) can be hard to find at only moderate inflation. More
air, as you show in image, distends the aperture so it's
easy to feel the escaping air on one's face by passing the
tube across it.
No thanks. I use my hands (palms) to detect air leaks. I don't use
my face because I take blood thinners (Plavix). A small cut takes
about 15 minutes to stop bleeding. I had to give up shaving with a
razor blade and switched to an electric face mower. With a razor, I
would arrive to work with partially dried blood stains in difficult to
explain places. Band-Aids made it look like I had been in a fight.
Liquid bandages and styptic pencils worked, but if I try to wash off
the sealant, it would start bleeding again. After reading about the
horrors of having almost invisible wire hooks (steel belt cord) cuts,
I don't think that using my face to test for air leaks is a good idea.
After my stroke they put me on statins and aspirin and my blood still clots rapidly.
In 2020, my cardiologist took me off 81 mg baby aspirin because it was determined from studies that taking aspirin involved a risk of
excessive bleeding and that the outcome (frequency of additional
strokes) was about the same with and without aspirin. You might want
to ask your cardiologist about this.
<https://www.yalemedicine.org/news/aspirin-to-prevent-a-stroke>
(Dec 16, 2024)
"The guideline changes were largely because of the increased risk of
bleeding from aspirin use coupled with limited CVD benefit."
"... if you add additional bleeding risk from aspirin use, which may
only provide a mild CVD benefit, the potential risk for a significant bleeding complication starts to outweigh the benefits."
"The USPSTF updated its guidelines in 2022 to "recommend against
initiating low-dose aspirin use for the primary prevention of CVD in
adults 60 years or older."
On 5/14/2025 2:10 PM, cyclintom wrote:
Now if we can get Liebermann to stop talking as if he has repaired an >innertube in the last 30 years and Flunky to stop pretending that thecarrier in the glues doesn't lift the marker pin ink we can actually
address the actual subject.
I think everyone agrees the problem is your incompetence. As usual,
you're having problems nobody else seems to have.
On Wed May 7 17:59:35 2025 Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 07 May 2025 20:44:02 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
wrote:
On Tue May 6 11:31:53 2025 Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 6 May 2025 13:10:21 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
Teeny little holes (wire, syringe needle, thin glass shard,
thorn) can be hard to find at only moderate inflation. More
air, as you show in image, distends the aperture so it's
easy to feel the escaping air on one's face by passing the
tube across it.
No thanks. I use my hands (palms) to detect air leaks. I don't use
my face because I take blood thinners (Plavix). A small cut takes
about 15 minutes to stop bleeding. I had to give up shaving with a
razor blade and switched to an electric face mower. With a razor, I
would arrive to work with partially dried blood stains in difficult to
explain places. Band-Aids made it look like I had been in a fight.
Liquid bandages and styptic pencils worked, but if I try to wash off
the sealant, it would start bleeding again. After reading about the
horrors of having almost invisible wire hooks (steel belt cord) cuts,
I don't think that using my face to test for air leaks is a good idea.
After my stroke they put me on statins and aspirin and my blood still clots rapidly.
In 2020, my cardiologist took me off 81 mg baby aspirin because it was
determined from studies that taking aspirin involved a risk of
excessive bleeding and that the outcome (frequency of additional
strokes) was about the same with and without aspirin. You might want
to ask your cardiologist about this.
<https://www.yalemedicine.org/news/aspirin-to-prevent-a-stroke>
(Dec 16, 2024)
"The guideline changes were largely because of the increased risk of
bleeding from aspirin use coupled with limited CVD benefit."
"... if you add additional bleeding risk from aspirin use, which may
only provide a mild CVD benefit, the potential risk for a significant
bleeding complication starts to outweigh the benefits."
"The USPSTF updated its guidelines in 2022 to "recommend against
initiating low-dose aspirin use for the primary prevention of CVD in
adults 60 years or older."
I do not bleed excessively despite 325 mg of aspirin a day and a statin before bed.
On Wed, 14 May 2025 20:56:16 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
wrote:
On Wed May 7 17:59:35 2025 Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 07 May 2025 20:44:02 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
wrote:
On Tue May 6 11:31:53 2025 Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 6 May 2025 13:10:21 -0500, AMuzi <am@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >> >>After my stroke they put me on statins and aspirin and my blood still clots rapidly.
Teeny little holes (wire, syringe needle, thin glass shard,
thorn) can be hard to find at only moderate inflation. More
air, as you show in image, distends the aperture so it's
easy to feel the escaping air on one's face by passing the
tube across it.
No thanks. I use my hands (palms) to detect air leaks. I don't use
my face because I take blood thinners (Plavix). A small cut takes
about 15 minutes to stop bleeding. I had to give up shaving with a
razor blade and switched to an electric face mower. With a razor, I
would arrive to work with partially dried blood stains in difficult to >> >> explain places. Band-Aids made it look like I had been in a fight.
Liquid bandages and styptic pencils worked, but if I try to wash off
the sealant, it would start bleeding again. After reading about the
horrors of having almost invisible wire hooks (steel belt cord) cuts, >> >> I don't think that using my face to test for air leaks is a good idea. >>
In 2020, my cardiologist took me off 81 mg baby aspirin because it was
determined from studies that taking aspirin involved a risk of
excessive bleeding and that the outcome (frequency of additional
strokes) was about the same with and without aspirin. You might want
to ask your cardiologist about this.
<https://www.yalemedicine.org/news/aspirin-to-prevent-a-stroke>
(Dec 16, 2024)
"The guideline changes were largely because of the increased risk of
bleeding from aspirin use coupled with limited CVD benefit."
"... if you add additional bleeding risk from aspirin use, which may
only provide a mild CVD benefit, the potential risk for a significant
bleeding complication starts to outweigh the benefits."
"The USPSTF updated its guidelines in 2022 to "recommend against
initiating low-dose aspirin use for the primary prevention of CVD in
adults 60 years or older."
I do not bleed excessively despite 325 mg of aspirin a day and a statin before bed.
Did you read the article I cited? It's not the bleeding from a
clotting inhibitor such as aspirin but rather it's internal bleeding.
Exert from article below.
"Because of its blood-thinning capabilities, aspirin can increase the
risk of bleeding in the gastrointestinal (GI) tract and the risk of hemorrhagic stroke (caused by bleeding inside or on the surface of the brain). Older adults are already more susceptible to GI bleeding,
hemorrhagic stroke, and bleeding in the brain from head trauma, so
aspirin may exacerbate these conditions."
Not outside with a wind blowing.
On Wed, 14 May 2025 00:16:37 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
wrote:
On Fri May 9 06:36:05 2025 zen cycle wrote:
Yup: "Once located I use a marking pen to make an X but the glue lifts
that off and I end up putting the patch in the wrong spot."
Can't say I've _ever_ heard of that problem
Only you could mark the tiny leak with an "X"\, put a spot of glue on it, rub the glue around and then be able to see the "X" through the glue carrier.
Tom... That was the method that YOU mentioned (except for where you
added the "rub the glue" part) which was not included in YOUR original
tale of woe[1].
<https://www.novabbs.com/tech/article-flat.php?id=125411&group=rec.bicycles.tech#125411>
"Many of these leaks are so slow that they are only a bubble every
second. Once located I use a marking pen to make an X but the glue
lifts that off and I end up putting the patch in the wrong spot."
Tell us again about how you averaged over 17 mph for an entire year of riding. I particularly like that one.
Are you shopping for a topic change?
[1] You didn't mention the color of the "marking pen". A black pen
on a black inner tube doesn't work. The found ink in a common
"marking pen" will smear if you try to cover it with a solvent based
blob of glue. See "check washing" for how it's done. You might have
a chance if you use "gel" glue, which does not smear with solvent. It
seems to me that you've never actually done what you're suggesting.
On Tue May 13 17:54:28 2025 Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 14 May 2025 00:16:37 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
wrote:
On Fri May 9 06:36:05 2025 zen cycle wrote:
Yup: "Once located I use a marking pen to make an X but the glue lifts >>>> that off and I end up putting the patch in the wrong spot."
Can't say I've _ever_ heard of that problem
Only you could mark the tiny leak with an "X"\, put a spot of glue on it, rub the glue around and then be able to see the "X" through the glue carrier.
Tom... That was the method that YOU mentioned (except for where you
added the "rub the glue" part) which was not included in YOUR original
tale of woe[1].
<https://www.novabbs.com/tech/article-flat.php?id=125411&group=rec.bicycles.tech#125411>
"Many of these leaks are so slow that they are only a bubble every
second. Once located I use a marking pen to make an X but the glue
lifts that off and I end up putting the patch in the wrong spot."
Tell us again about how you averaged over 17 mph for an entire year of riding. I particularly like that one.
Are you shopping for a topic change?
[1] You didn't mention the color of the "marking pen". A black pen
on a black inner tube doesn't work. The found ink in a common
"marking pen" will smear if you try to cover it with a solvent based
blob of glue. See "check washing" for how it's done. You might have
a chance if you use "gel" glue, which does not smear with solvent. It
seems to me that you've never actually done what you're suggesting.
Jeff, is there one single thing you don't think you're an expert on?
Without your inheritance you would be a homeless person.
You can't work, your body is so frail that you are talking about internal bleeding from the world's leading pain killer and anti-inamatory.
Do you think that Flunky or Krygowski give one single shit about what happens to you?
You are nothing to them but a means to an end. To make insane meanderings that in a heavy raqin season mud did not wash down and fill in the pond gehind the dam.
They would not dare make those claims so they leave it to the insane person in the triumverate.Says the whackjob that thinks 'the world is protected by the US nuclear umbrella'.
On Tue May 13 17:54:28 2025 Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 14 May 2025 00:16:37 GMT, cyclintom <cyclintom@yahoo.com>
wrote:
On Fri May 9 06:36:05 2025 zen cycle wrote:
Yup: "Once located I use a marking pen to make an X but the glue lifts
that off and I end up putting the patch in the wrong spot."
Can't say I've _ever_ heard of that problem
Only you could mark the tiny leak with an "X"\, put a spot of glue on it, rub the glue around and then be able to see the "X" through the glue carrier.
Tom... That was the method that YOU mentioned (except for where you
added the "rub the glue" part) which was not included in YOUR original
tale of woe[1].
<https://www.novabbs.com/tech/article-flat.php?id=125411&group=rec.bicycles.tech#125411>
"Many of these leaks are so slow that they are only a bubble every
second. Once located I use a marking pen to make an X but the glue
lifts that off and I end up putting the patch in the wrong spot."
Tell us again about how you averaged over 17 mph for an entire year of riding. I particularly like that one.
Are you shopping for a topic change?
[1] You didn't mention the color of the "marking pen". A black pen
on a black inner tube doesn't work. The found ink in a common
"marking pen" will smear if you try to cover it with a solvent based
blob of glue. See "check washing" for how it's done. You might have
a chance if you use "gel" glue, which does not smear with solvent. It
seems to me that you've never actually done what you're suggesting.
Jeff, is there one single thing you don't think you're an expert on?
Without your inheritance you would be a homeless person.
You can't work, your body is so frail that you are talking about
internal bleeding from the world's leading pain killer and anti-inamatory.
Do you think that Flunky or Krygowski give one single shit about
what happens to you?
You are nothing to them but a means to an end.
To make insane meanderings that in a heavy raqin season mud did
not wash down and fill in the pond gehind the dam. They would not
dare make those claims so they leave it to the insane person in
the triumverate.
Actually, the problem is that I'm not an expert on anything. I'm what
one might call a generalist. That's where I know something about many topics.
On 5/16/2025 2:46 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
<snip>
Actually, the problem is that I'm not an expert on anything. I'm what
one might call a generalist. That's where I know something about many
topics.
Be glad about that. Being an expert is not all that it's cracked up to be.
Reminds me of these famous quotes:
Knowing everything about everything Is an awesome burden but I humbly
accept that burden in service of my fellow man.
It must be nice to always believe you know better, to always think
you're the smartest person in the room. William Hurt as Paul Moore.
No. It's awful. Holly Hunter as Jane Craig (from the movie Broadcast >News)
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