Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat. I got the
thing jacked up and tried loosening the lug nuts--but failed.
After many tries, I think the socket I have (13/16") is just
slightly too big. It wobbles a bit when placed all the way in.
A 3/4" won't go on the nuts, so maybe I need metric? Seems 20 mm
would be the size just less than 13/16". Does that make any
sense?
My bigger concern is that I'v probably rounded off the nuts from
trying too many times to turn them with the socket I have. Any
suggestions on how to go at this?
On 6/7/2025 8:07 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat. I got the
thing jacked up and tried loosening the lug nuts--but failed.
After many tries, I think the socket I have (13/16") is just
slightly too big. It wobbles a bit when placed all the way in.
A 3/4" won't go on the nuts, so maybe I need metric? Seems 20 mm
would be the size just less than 13/16". Does that make any
sense?
Before doing anything else, you you should confirm the proper size of
the nuts. If still stripped see recommendations below.
My bigger concern is that I'v probably rounded off the nuts from
trying too many times to turn them with the socket I have. Any
suggestions on how to go at this?
You can try a slightly smaller socket that you have to beat on with a hammer. Problem with this is it also might get stuck and not take the
nut off if you're not careful.
You can try using a chisel to beat it off first, and I've then moved on
to chiseling down the length of the nut and splitting it. Obviously,
this can be hard on a nice finish of the wheel if and when you miss. You
also might end up having to install a new wheel stud if you mess up the threads.
The easiest method is using a bolt and nut removing socket tool. These
work really well. Just don't jerk your socket wrench. It works best
with slow steady pulls. Put a pipe on the end if you need more leverage.
<https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X7FYZB7>
Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat. I got the
thing jacked up and tried loosening the lug nuts--but failed.
After many tries, I think the socket I have (13/16") is just
slightly too big. It wobbles a bit when placed all the way in.
A 3/4" won't go on the nuts, so maybe I need metric? Seems 20 mm
would be the size just less than 13/16". Does that make any
sense?
My bigger concern is that I'v probably rounded off the nuts from
trying too many times to turn them with the socket I have. Any
suggestions on how to go at this?
Ted Heise wrote:
Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat. I got the
thing jacked up and tried loosening the lug nuts--but failed.
After many tries, I think the socket I have (13/16") is just
slightly too big. It wobbles a bit when placed all the way in.
A 3/4" won't go on the nuts, so maybe I need metric? Seems 20 mm
would be the size just less than 13/16". Does that make any
sense?
Ask Google what the socket size is for your vehicle. Then loosen and
then snug the rest of them back, and then work on the one you rounded.
If you can't get the rest of them off, call the shop who last worked
on the wheels, and tell them to come get it and fix it - unless it was
you who last torqued the nuts. Properly torqued lug nuts should come
off pretty easily.
My bigger concern is that I'v probably rounded off the nuts from
trying too many times to turn them with the socket I have. Any
suggestions on how to go at this?
--Good advice Bill,
bill
Theory don't mean squat if it don't work.
On 6/7/25 11:44 PM, bfh wrote:
Ted Heise wrote:
Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat. I got
the thing jacked up and tried loosening the lug nuts--but
failed. After many tries, I think the socket I have (13/16")
is just slightly too big. It wobbles a bit when placed all
the way in.
A 3/4" won't go on the nuts, so maybe I need metric? Seems
20 mm would be the size just less than 13/16". Does that
make any sense?
Ask Google what the socket size is for your vehicle.
...Then loosen and then snug the rest of them back, and then
work on the one you rounded. If you can't get the rest of them
off, call the shop who last worked on the wheels, and tell them
to come get it and fix it - unless it was you who last torqued
the nuts. Properly torqued lug nuts should come off pretty
easily.
Good advice Bill,
Id call a tire shop.
On 6/7/2025 8:07 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat. I got
the thing jacked up and tried loosening the lug nuts--but
failed. After many tries, I think the socket I have (13/16")
is just slightly too big. It wobbles a bit when placed all
the way in.
A 3/4" won't go on the nuts, so maybe I need metric? Seems 20
mm would be the size just less than 13/16". Does that make
any sense?
Before doing anything else, you you should confirm the proper
size of the nuts. If still stripped see recommendations below.
My bigger concern is that I'v probably rounded off the nuts
from trying too many times to turn them with the socket I
have. Any suggestions on how to go at this?
You can try a slightly smaller socket that you have to beat on
with a hammer. Problem with this is it also might get stuck
and not take the nut off if you're not careful.
You can try using a chisel to beat it off first, and I've then
moved on to chiseling down the length of the nut and splitting
it. Obviously, this can be hard on a nice finish of the wheel
if and when you miss. You also might end up having to install a
new wheel stud if you mess up the threads.
The easiest method is using a bolt and nut removing socket
tool. These work really well. Just don't jerk your socket
wrench. It works best with slow steady pulls. Put a pipe on
the end if you need more leverage.
<https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X7FYZB7>
On Sat, 7 Jun 2025 20:48:42 -0500,
sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
The easiest method is using a bolt and nut removing socket
tool. These work really well. Just don't jerk your socket
wrench. It works best with slow steady pulls. Put a pipe on
the end if you need more leverage.
<https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X7FYZB7>
Okay, is that something I'm going to be able to apply to the nuts
in this stupid "pretty" wheel?
https://panix.com/~theise/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/20250608_155335-scaled.jpg
On Sat, 7 Jun 2025 20:48:42 -0500,
sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
On 6/7/2025 8:07 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat. I got
the thing jacked up and tried loosening the lug nuts--but
failed. After many tries, I think the socket I have (13/16")
is just slightly too big. It wobbles a bit when placed all
the way in.
A 3/4" won't go on the nuts, so maybe I need metric? Seems 20
mm would be the size just less than 13/16". Does that make
any sense?
Before doing anything else, you you should confirm the proper
size of the nuts. If still stripped see recommendations below.
Not sure how to do that, but I picked up a 20 mm socket today and
it seemed to fit the nuts reasonably well. It wouldn't go on one
of them at all, probably too rounded. I sheared off a 3/8" drive
extension (socket is 3/8") trying to loosen a different nut, then
switched to a 1/2" extension conected to the adaptor. The socket
then slipped on any that I tried before anything came loose.
My bigger concern is that I'v probably rounded off the nuts
from trying too many times to turn them with the socket I
have. Any suggestions on how to go at this?
You can try a slightly smaller socket that you have to beat on
with a hammer. Problem with this is it also might get stuck
and not take the nut off if you're not careful.
You can try using a chisel to beat it off first, and I've then
moved on to chiseling down the length of the nut and splitting
it. Obviously, this can be hard on a nice finish of the wheel
if and when you miss. You also might end up having to install a
new wheel stud if you mess up the threads.
The easiest method is using a bolt and nut removing socket
tool. These work really well. Just don't jerk your socket
wrench. It works best with slow steady pulls. Put a pipe on
the end if you need more leverage.
<https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X7FYZB7>
Okay, is that something I'm going to be able to apply to the nuts
in this stupid "pretty" wheel?
https://panix.com/~theise/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/20250608_155335-scaled.jpg
Ugh. What a mess.
P.S. Sounds like this would need an impact wrench applied to it,
and I don't have access to anything like that--or even power where
the trailer is.
On Sun, 08 Jun 2025 14:47:05 GMT,
Justan <?@¿.com> wrote:
On 6/7/25 11:44 PM, bfh wrote:
Ted Heise wrote:
Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat. I got
the thing jacked up and tried loosening the lug nuts--but
failed. After many tries, I think the socket I have (13/16")
is just slightly too big. It wobbles a bit when placed all
the way in.
A 3/4" won't go on the nuts, so maybe I need metric? Seems
20 mm would be the size just less than 13/16". Does that
make any sense?
Ask Google what the socket size is for your vehicle.
I actually tried that first, and came up with absolutely nothing.
Picture of the wheel is here...
https://panix.com/~theise/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/20250608_155335-scaled.jpg
...Then loosen and then snug the rest of them back, and then
work on the one you rounded. If you can't get the rest of them
off, call the shop who last worked on the wheels, and tell them
to come get it and fix it - unless it was you who last torqued
the nuts. Properly torqued lug nuts should come off pretty
easily.
Actually, none of them will loosen, and I've probably rounded off
all of them. When I got it new, it said to torque the nuts after
25, 50, and 100 miles. So I got a torque wrench and socket, and
have been periodically applying the torque wrench to them. At
first, I'm pretty sure the wrench would click because the set
torque had been reached, but I'm not sure now when the socket
started slipping.
Regarding the folks who last worked on the wheel, that would be
the dealer I got it from. I had it in there last winter to get
the wheel bearings repacked. If the wheel doesn't have to come
off for that, they've never been off.
Good advice Bill,
Id call a tire shop.
I will call one in the morning.
The stupid thing is in the storage unit and I'm starting to think
I'll have to get someone to tow it on a trailer. I pumped it up
to ~70 psi and after driving to it to dump the tanks and then to
the storage facility, it was visibly flat--though not on the rim.
Here's the view in the storage bay...
https://panix.com/~theise/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/20250608_155534-scaled.jpg
Ted Heise wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jun 2025 14:47:05 GMT,Call Lance to get the proper socket size. If that does not work, get
Justan <?@¿.com> wrote:
On 6/7/25 11:44 PM, bfh wrote:
Ted Heise wrote:
Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat. I got
the thing jacked up and tried loosening the lug nuts--but
failed. After many tries, I think the socket I have (13/16")
is just slightly too big. It wobbles a bit when placed all
the way in.
A 3/4" won't go on the nuts, so maybe I need metric? Seems
20 mm would be the size just less than 13/16". Does that
make any sense?
Ask Google what the socket size is for your vehicle.
I actually tried that first, and came up with absolutely nothing.
Picture of the wheel is here...
https://panix.com/~theise/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/20250608_155335-scaled.jpg
...Then loosen and then snug the rest of them back, and then
work on the one you rounded. If you can't get the rest of them
off, call the shop who last worked on the wheels, and tell them
to come get it and fix it - unless it was you who last torqued
the nuts. Properly torqued lug nuts should come off pretty
easily.
Actually, none of them will loosen, and I've probably rounded off
all of them. When I got it new, it said to torque the nuts after
25, 50, and 100 miles. So I got a torque wrench and socket, and
have been periodically applying the torque wrench to them. At
first, I'm pretty sure the wrench would click because the set
torque had been reached, but I'm not sure now when the socket
started slipping.
Regarding the folks who last worked on the wheel, that would be
the dealer I got it from. I had it in there last winter to get
the wheel bearings repacked. If the wheel doesn't have to come
off for that, they've never been off.
Good advice Bill,
Id call a tire shop.
I will call one in the morning.
The stupid thing is in the storage unit and I'm starting to think
I'll have to get someone to tow it on a trailer. I pumped it up
to ~70 psi and after driving to it to dump the tanks and then to
the storage facility, it was visibly flat--though not on the rim.
Here's the view in the storage bay...
https://panix.com/~theise/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/20250608_155534-scaled.jpg
one of these: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Slime-Deluxe-Tire-Plug-Kit-Reamer-Plugger-Kit-with-8-Plugs-and-Glue/4777239?user=shopping&feed=yes&srsltid=AfmBOorSyi7NvcAkKyW4i7I6vWh8UjH2zf9YJ04HoN49wuDM2yuwvoPCysk&gQT=1
Then patch the tire and tow it to an appropriate shop to see what the
problem is with the lug nuts.
On 6/8/2025 4:11 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
On Sat, 7 Jun 2025 20:48:42 -0500,
sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
On 6/7/2025 8:07 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat. I got
the thing jacked up and tried loosening the lug nuts--but
failed. After many tries, I think the socket I have (13/16")
is just slightly too big. It wobbles a bit when placed all
the way in.
A 3/4" won't go on the nuts, so maybe I need metric? Seems 20
mm would be the size just less than 13/16". Does that make
any sense?
Before doing anything else, you you should confirm the proper
size of the nuts. If still stripped see recommendations below.
Not sure how to do that, but I picked up a 20 mm socket today and
it seemed to fit the nuts reasonably well. It wouldn't go on one
of them at all, probably too rounded. I sheared off a 3/8" drive
extension (socket is 3/8") trying to loosen a different nut, then
switched to a 1/2" extension conected to the adaptor. The socket
then slipped on any that I tried before anything came loose.
When I work on my vehicles wheels, I only use 1/2" drive. Just about >everything requires 150 lbs or greater torque. That's too much for
3/8". In my View, I have a dedicated 1/2" wrench, socket, extensions,
and a small pipe to get more leverage.
Your wheels are deep and you have the trailer body to contend with. You >might need a 6" or 8" extension to be able to clear that and put a pipe
on the end of your socket wrench.
My bigger concern is that I'v probably rounded off the nuts
from trying too many times to turn them with the socket I
have. Any suggestions on how to go at this?
You can try a slightly smaller socket that you have to beat on
with a hammer. Problem with this is it also might get stuck
and not take the nut off if you're not careful.
You can try using a chisel to beat it off first, and I've then
moved on to chiseling down the length of the nut and splitting
it. Obviously, this can be hard on a nice finish of the wheel
if and when you miss. You also might end up having to install a
new wheel stud if you mess up the threads.
The easiest method is using a bolt and nut removing socket
tool. These work really well. Just don't jerk your socket
wrench. It works best with slow steady pulls. Put a pipe on
the end if you need more leverage.
<https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X7FYZB7>
Okay, is that something I'm going to be able to apply to the nuts
in this stupid "pretty" wheel?
I would certainly think so. They're basically a socket made of very
hard steel, that has a different gripping pattern. It grips harder the
more pressure you put on it.
Wouldn't hurt to spray some penetrating oil in there and let it sit
overnight if you can.
https://panix.com/~theise/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/20250608_155335-scaled.jpg
Ugh. What a mess.
In another post you said this:
P.S. Sounds like this would need an impact wrench applied to it,
and I don't have access to anything like that--or even power where
the trailer is.
I NEVER EVER use impact wrenches on our wheels. That is probably how
you got in this mess in the first place. Yes, the tires probably came
off to do the wheel bearings. 99% of people who do the job take them
off. Then they probably just hammered them with the impact when putting
back on. This is possibly how they began to get rounded. I NEVER let
anyone rotate tires on my vehicles because they always use impacts. I
use socket and a good bar. Tightening, I don't even use a torque
wrench. I just get them as tight as I can. If you tighten in a
pattern, and then use the same pattern for the final pull, you're good.
You can do this! And...you're learning another very good lesson about
your rig. You need to get a handle on doing this in case it happens in
the middle of nowhere.
On 6/8/25 6:41 PM, sticks wrote:
On 6/8/2025 4:11 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
On Sat, 7 Jun 2025 20:48:42 -0500,
sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
On 6/7/2025 8:07 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat. I got
the thing jacked up and tried loosening the lug nuts--but
failed. After many tries, I think the socket I have (13/16")
is just slightly too big. It wobbles a bit when placed all
the way in.
A 3/4" won't go on the nuts, so maybe I need metric? Seems 20
mm would be the size just less than 13/16". Does that make
any sense?
Before doing anything else, you you should confirm the proper
size of the nuts. If still stripped see recommendations below.
Not sure how to do that, but I picked up a 20 mm socket today and
it seemed to fit the nuts reasonably well. It wouldn't go on one
of them at all, probably too rounded. I sheared off a 3/8" drive
extension (socket is 3/8") trying to loosen a different nut, then
switched to a 1/2" extension conected to the adaptor. The socket
then slipped on any that I tried before anything came loose.
When I work on my vehicles wheels, I only use 1/2" drive. Just
about everything requires 150 lbs or greater torque. That's too
much for 3/8". In my View, I have a dedicated 1/2" wrench, socket,
extensions, and a small pipe to get more leverage.
Your wheels are deep and you have the trailer body to contend with.
You might need a 6" or 8" extension to be able to clear that and put
a pipe on the end of your socket wrench.
My bigger concern is that I'v probably rounded off the nuts
from trying too many times to turn them with the socket I
have. Any suggestions on how to go at this?
You can try a slightly smaller socket that you have to beat on
with a hammer. Problem with this is it also might get stuck
and not take the nut off if you're not careful.
You can try using a chisel to beat it off first, and I've then
moved on to chiseling down the length of the nut and splitting
it. Obviously, this can be hard on a nice finish of the wheel
if and when you miss. You also might end up having to install a
new wheel stud if you mess up the threads.
The easiest method is using a bolt and nut removing socket
tool. These work really well. Just don't jerk your socket
wrench. It works best with slow steady pulls. Put a pipe on
the end if you need more leverage.
<https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X7FYZB7>
Okay, is that something I'm going to be able to apply to the nuts
in this stupid "pretty" wheel?
I would certainly think so. They're basically a socket made of very
hard steel, that has a different gripping pattern. It grips harder
the more pressure you put on it.
Wouldn't hurt to spray some penetrating oil in there and let it sit
overnight if you can.
https://panix.com/~theise/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/20250608_155335-scaled.jpg
Ugh. What a mess.
In another post you said this:
P.S. Sounds like this would need an impact wrench applied to it,
and I don't have access to anything like that--or even power where
the trailer is.
I NEVER EVER use impact wrenches on our wheels. That is probably
how you got in this mess in the first place. Yes, the tires
probably came off to do the wheel bearings. 99% of people who do
the job take them off. Then they probably just hammered them with
the impact when putting back on. This is possibly how they began to
get rounded. I NEVER let anyone rotate tires on my vehicles because
they always use impacts. I use socket and a good bar. Tightening,
I don't even use a torque wrench. I just get them as tight as I
can. If you tighten in a pattern, and then use the same pattern for
the final pull, you're good.
You can do this! And...you're learning another very good lesson
about your rig. You need to get a handle on doing this in case it
happens in the middle of nowhere.
Okay, replying on my phone, sorry if this is messy. I did put PB
Blaster on
them a few times this afternoon. Plan now is to call Lance and get the correct dimension, then get the proper size bolt and nut removing socket tool--in 1/2" drive. I already have a 1/2" drive breaker bar and 3" extension, so will also get a bit of pipe to extend the breaker bar.
Totally agree I need to get things set so I can handle flats on the road, just may need some help getting over the immediate hurdle in front of me.
The tips and encouragement may get there yet, thanks!
And Bill, I'm not sure how I would use a tire plug, given i have no idea where the leak may be coming from.
On 6/8/2025 4:11 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
On Sat, 7 Jun 2025 20:48:42 -0500,
sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
On 6/7/2025 8:07 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
...tried loosening the lug nuts--but failed. After many
tries, I think the socket I have (13/16") is just slightly
too big. It wobbles a bit when placed all the way in.
A 3/4" won't go on the nuts, so maybe I need metric?
Before doing anything else, you you should confirm the
proper size of the nuts. If still stripped see
recommendations below.
When I work on my vehicles wheels, I only use 1/2" drive.
Just about everything requires 150 lbs or greater torque.
That's too much for 3/8". In my View, I have a dedicated 1/2"
wrench, socket, extensions, and a small pipe to get more
leverage.
Your wheels are deep and you have the trailer body to contend
with. You might need a 6" or 8" extension to be able to clear
that and put a pipe on the end of your socket wrench.
You can try a slightly smaller socket that you have to beat
on with a hammer. Problem with this is it also might get
stuck and not take the nut off if you're not careful.
You can do this! And...you're learning another very good
lesson about your rig. You need to get a handle on doing this
in case it happens in the middle of nowhere.
TLDR: I got the wheel off and taken to a local tire repair shop!
On Sun, 8 Jun 2025 17:41:21 -0500,
sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
On 6/8/2025 4:11 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
On Sat, 7 Jun 2025 20:48:42 -0500,
sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
On 6/7/2025 8:07 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
...tried loosening the lug nuts--but failed. After many
tries, I think the socket I have (13/16") is just slightly
too big. It wobbles a bit when placed all the way in.
A 3/4" won't go on the nuts, so maybe I need metric?
Before doing anything else, you you should confirm the
proper size of the nuts. If still stripped see
recommendations below.
As advised, I called Lance this morning. They indicated the lug
nuts have a 3/4" hex head. I reasoned that I'd not been able to
get a 3/4" socket onto the nuts because I'd dinged them up too
much. I also reasoned that a larger size bolt and nut extractor
would be a suboptimal approach, so I got a 1/2" drive 3/4" hex
socket, figuring I might have to hammer it onto the nuts.
As an aside, I actually had a 1/2" drive 3/4" socket already, but
it was 12 point so I thought it wouldn't be a good choice.
When I work on my vehicles wheels, I only use 1/2" drive.
Just about everything requires 150 lbs or greater torque.
That's too much for 3/8". In my View, I have a dedicated 1/2"
wrench, socket, extensions, and a small pipe to get more
leverage.
Your wheels are deep and you have the trailer body to contend
with. You might need a 6" or 8" extension to be able to clear
that and put a pipe on the end of your socket wrench.
I already had the 1/2" drive extension. Along with the 1/2" drive
3/4" hex socket I got a 2 ft pipe that was large enough to fit
over the handle of my breaker bar. Ended up being a 1" diameter
pipe. I then pounded the socket onto a random nut. Took me a few
strikes of my fingers to realize they would do better if I put the
extension into the socket and *then* applied the hammer. Duh.
Once the socket was reasonably well seated on the nut I was able
to break it loose. When it was off the stud, I had to knock it
out of the socket by striking a small rod that fit through the
drive side of the socket. One of the larger sockets in my old set
made a nice holder for doing this.
After getting one off, I was considerably encouraged and went at
the others, one by one. With a couple it didn't seem clear I'd
gotten the socket driven far enough onto the nut to succeed in
turning it, but somehow they all gave in.
Turns out the nuts were steel with chrome caps. Yuck. The tire
place recommended I get solid chrome lug nuts, which I've done;
enough for both wheels. In the next few days I'll get back out to
the storage facility and replace the nuts on the other wheel. I
think it should work to do this without jacking up that side
of the trailer if I do them one at time.
The tire has probably about 10,000 miles, so it seems it should
still have some life left--assuming it can be repaired. Will let
you know what the shop says.
You can try a slightly smaller socket that you have to beat
on with a hammer. Problem with this is it also might get
stuck and not take the nut off if you're not careful.
As you know by now, this is essentially what I did. It worked
well.
You can do this! And...you're learning another very good
lesson about your rig. You need to get a handle on doing this
in case it happens in the middle of nowhere.
I *really* appreciate the advice and the encouragement! I would
not have succeeded without the help of you guys here. And bill, I
plan to get one of those patch kits to keep in the pass through.
On 6/9/2025 3:51 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
TLDR: I got the wheel off and taken to a local tire repair
shop!
Congratulations! I am impressed with your work ethic and as
shown now in this exercise and your air conditioner, and the
solar/battery issue your willingness to stick with it and get
it done. Made my day seeing this post!
...Remember too you'll need a 12 volt air compressor. I had a
little cig lighter one I carried around for years.
On Mon, 9 Jun 2025 18:12:52 -0500,
sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
On 6/9/2025 3:51 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
TLDR: I got the wheel off and taken to a local tire repair
shop!
Congratulations! I am impressed with your work ethic and as
shown now in this exercise and your air conditioner, and the
solar/battery issue your willingness to stick with it and get
it done. Made my day seeing this post!
Glad to hear this, but I doubt I'd have succeeded without the help
and encouragement from the crew here. :)
I did want to follow up on this...
...Remember too you'll need a 12 volt air compressor. I had a
little cig lighter one I carried around for years.
I actually have one of those, specifically, this Avid Power pistol
grip unit...
https://www.amazon.com/Inflator-Compressor-Cordless-Rechargeable-Power/dp/B08N459G4K?th=1
I've used it regularly for a couple of years because one of the
tires on my Acadia has a slow leak. When I discovered the low
tire on the trailer, I plugged this Avid unit into the cigarette
lighter of the trailer, set it to 80 psi, and let it run. After
several minutes (maybe over 10) I noticed it was sounding a bit
strained. When I checked on it there was a definite overheating
smell to it. It was not even to 50 psi yet, but I quickly shut it
off.
Since then it's worked okay on my Acadia tires (36 psi), but I
haven't dared try it on the trailer tire. I'm assuming the tire
was losing air fast enough the Avid wasn't going to get it
anywhere near the rated pressure. Should I be looking for a
different small compressor?
Ted Heise wrote:
I actually have one of those, specifically, this Avid Power
pistol grip unit...
https://www.amazon.com/Inflator-Compressor-Cordless-Rechargeable-Power/dp/B08N459G4K?th=1
I've used it regularly for a couple of years because one of
the tires on my Acadia has a slow leak. When I discovered the
low tire on the trailer, I plugged this Avid unit into the
cigarette lighter of the trailer, set it to 80 psi, and let it
run. After several minutes (maybe over 10) I noticed it was
sounding a bit strained. When I checked on it there was a
definite overheating smell to it. It was not even to 50 psi
yet, but I quickly shut it off.
Since then it's worked okay on my Acadia tires (36 psi), but I
haven't dared try it on the trailer tire. I'm assuming the
tire was losing air fast enough the Avid wasn't going to get
it anywhere near the rated pressure. Should I be looking for
a different small compressor?
Maybe. Maybe even probably. Better to have too much than not
enough, but if you plug the hole first, it won't lose air as
fast - or at all.
...Besides, that compressor you have says: "And not recommended
for vehicle tires wider than 245mm or requiring over 50PSI."
Do you carry a spare for the trailer?
Ted Heise wrote:
On Mon, 9 Jun 2025 18:12:52 -0500,Maybe. Maybe even probably. Better to have too much than not enough, but
sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
On 6/9/2025 3:51 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
TLDR: I got the wheel off and taken to a local tire repair
shop!
Congratulations! I am impressed with your work ethic and as
shown now in this exercise and your air conditioner, and the
solar/battery issue your willingness to stick with it and get
it done. Made my day seeing this post!
Glad to hear this, but I doubt I'd have succeeded without the help
and encouragement from the crew here. :)
I did want to follow up on this...
...Remember too you'll need a 12 volt air compressor. I had a
little cig lighter one I carried around for years.
I actually have one of those, specifically, this Avid Power pistol
grip unit...
https://www.amazon.com/Inflator-Compressor-Cordless-Rechargeable-
Power/dp/B08N459G4K?th=1
I've used it regularly for a couple of years because one of the
tires on my Acadia has a slow leak. When I discovered the low
tire on the trailer, I plugged this Avid unit into the cigarette
lighter of the trailer, set it to 80 psi, and let it run. After
several minutes (maybe over 10) I noticed it was sounding a bit
strained. When I checked on it there was a definite overheating
smell to it. It was not even to 50 psi yet, but I quickly shut it
off.
Since then it's worked okay on my Acadia tires (36 psi), but I
haven't dared try it on the trailer tire. I'm assuming the tire
was losing air fast enough the Avid wasn't going to get it
anywhere near the rated pressure. Should I be looking for a
different small compressor?
if you plug the hole first, it won't lose air as fast - or at all.
Besides, that compressor you have says: "And not recommended for vehicle tires wider than 245mm or requiring over 50PSI."
On Tue, 10 Jun 2025 12:34:10 -0400,
bfh <redydog@rye.net> wrote:
Ted Heise wrote:
I actually have one of those, specifically, this Avid Power
pistol grip unit...
https://www.amazon.com/Inflator-Compressor-Cordless-Rechargeable-Power/dp/B08N459G4K?th=1
I've used it regularly for a couple of years because one of
the tires on my Acadia has a slow leak. When I discovered the
low tire on the trailer, I plugged this Avid unit into the
cigarette lighter of the trailer, set it to 80 psi, and let it
run. After several minutes (maybe over 10) I noticed it was
sounding a bit strained. When I checked on it there was a
definite overheating smell to it. It was not even to 50 psi
yet, but I quickly shut it off.
Since then it's worked okay on my Acadia tires (36 psi), but I
haven't dared try it on the trailer tire. I'm assuming the
tire was losing air fast enough the Avid wasn't going to get
it anywhere near the rated pressure. Should I be looking for
a different small compressor?
Maybe. Maybe even probably. Better to have too much than not
enough, but if you plug the hole first, it won't lose air as
fast - or at all.
Valid. I do have a patch kit on my shopping list. Pretty soon
I'll be out of space in the pass through!
...Besides, that compressor you have says: "And not recommended
for vehicle tires wider than 245mm or requiring over 50PSI."
Huh, I missed that entirely. And I was even looking for that type
of info. Duh.
Do you carry a spare for the trailer?
Yes, it came with a spare. Seems to be an equivalent tire, though
the wheel's pretty basic (i.e., not "pretty"). It even has a cool
winch like contraption that will lower and raise the wheel up to
it's storage loction under the pass through. It took me quite a
lot of STFW to figure out how to operate it.
On Sun, 8 Jun 2025 23:16:31 -0400,
bfh <redydog@rye.net> wrote:
Ted wrote:
On 6/8/25 6:41 PM, sticks wrote:
On 6/8/2025 4:11 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
On Sat, 7 Jun 2025 20:48:42 -0500,
sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
On 6/7/2025 8:07 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat...
And Bill, I'm not sure how I would use a tire plug, given i
have no idea where the leak may be coming from.
Pump it up, pour/spray some slightly soapy water all over it
and look for bubbles and then use the tire plug thingy where
the bubbles are coming from. However, if the leak is not
somewhere in the tread, myownself would not punch a hole in the
sidewall. I would tell you about that stuff that you squirt
into the tire to stop leaks, but I've never used it, and I'm
unlikely to start. I've used the tire plug thingy a number of
times in my life, and it always got me to where I needed to go
to get a more permanent fix. I never leave home without it.
Picked up the wheel today and was informed the problem was the
valve core. I don't think a plug kit would help with that kind of
problem, so should I also get a spare core or two to travel with?
I assume the soapy water treatment would work to find a leaking
valve too?
Ted wrote:
On 6/8/25 6:41 PM, sticks wrote:
On 6/8/2025 4:11 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
On Sat, 7 Jun 2025 20:48:42 -0500,
sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
On 6/7/2025 8:07 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat...
And Bill, I'm not sure how I would use a tire plug, given i
have no idea where the leak may be coming from.
Pump it up, pour/spray some slightly soapy water all over it
and look for bubbles and then use the tire plug thingy where
the bubbles are coming from. However, if the leak is not
somewhere in the tread, myownself would not punch a hole in the
sidewall. I would tell you about that stuff that you squirt
into the tire to stop leaks, but I've never used it, and I'm
unlikely to start. I've used the tire plug thingy a number of
times in my life, and it always got me to where I needed to go
to get a more permanent fix. I never leave home without it.
On Sun, 8 Jun 2025 23:16:31 -0400,
bfh <redydog@rye.net> wrote:
Ted wrote:
On 6/8/25 6:41 PM, sticks wrote:
On 6/8/2025 4:11 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
On Sat, 7 Jun 2025 20:48:42 -0500,
sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
On 6/7/2025 8:07 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat...
And Bill, I'm not sure how I would use a tire plug, given i
have no idea where the leak may be coming from.
Pump it up, pour/spray some slightly soapy water all over it
and look for bubbles and then use the tire plug thingy where
the bubbles are coming from. However, if the leak is not
somewhere in the tread, myownself would not punch a hole in the
sidewall. I would tell you about that stuff that you squirt
into the tire to stop leaks, but I've never used it, and I'm
unlikely to start. I've used the tire plug thingy a number of
times in my life, and it always got me to where I needed to go
to get a more permanent fix. I never leave home without it.
Picked up the wheel today and was informed the problem was the
valve core. I don't think a plug kit would help with that kind of
problem, so should I also get a spare core or two to travel with?
I assume the soapy water treatment would work to find a leaking
valve too?
On 6/12/2025 9:23 AM, Ted Heise wrote:
On Sun, 8 Jun 2025 23:16:31 -0400,
bfh <redydog@rye.net> wrote:
Ted wrote:
On 6/8/25 6:41 PM, sticks wrote:
On 6/8/2025 4:11 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
On Sat, 7 Jun 2025 20:48:42 -0500,
sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
On 6/7/2025 8:07 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low
on pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely
flat...
And Bill, I'm not sure how I would use a tire plug, given i
have no idea where the leak may be coming from.
Pump it up, pour/spray some slightly soapy water all over
it and look for bubbles and then use the tire plug thingy
where the bubbles are coming from. However, if the leak is
not somewhere in the tread, myownself would not punch a
hole in the sidewall. I would tell you about that stuff
that you squirt into the tire to stop leaks, but I've never
used it, and I'm unlikely to start. I've used the tire plug
thingy a number of times in my life, and it always got me
to where I needed to go to get a more permanent fix. I
never leave home without it.
Picked up the wheel today and was informed the problem was the
valve core. I don't think a plug kit would help with that
kind of problem, so should I also get a spare core or two to
travel with?
They do go bad, but I suspect it was probably just loose. I
carry one of these on a valve stem on each vehicle we have in
case one needs tightening.
<https://i.postimg.cc/vT70TsvT/valve-cap-for-cores.jpg>
I got mine from Milton Industries. Cheap.
<https://miltonindustries.com/collections/tire-hardware-tire-caps/products/miltonr-tr-vc-2-screwdriver-type-valve-cap-single-retail-pack-s-437w>
On Sun, 8 Jun 2025 23:16:31 -0400,
bfh <redydog@rye.net> wrote:
Ted wrote:
On 6/8/25 6:41 PM, sticks wrote:
On 6/8/2025 4:11 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
On Sat, 7 Jun 2025 20:48:42 -0500,
  sticks <wolverine01@charter.net> wrote:
 On 6/7/2025 8:07 PM, Ted Heise wrote:
Okay, got home from Wyoming and found a tire quite low on
pressure. Did the cleanup and it's definitely flat...
And Bill, I'm not sure how I would use a tire plug, given i
have no idea where the leak may be coming from.
Pump it up, pour/spray some slightly soapy water all over it
and look for bubbles and then use the tire plug thingy where
the bubbles are coming from. However, if the leak is not
somewhere in the tread, myownself would not punch a hole in the
sidewall. I would tell you about that stuff that you squirt
into the tire to stop leaks, but I've never used it, and I'm
unlikely to start. I've used the tire plug thingy a number of
times in my life, and it always got me to where I needed to go
to get a more permanent fix. I never leave home without it.
Picked up the wheel today and was informed the problem was the
valve core. I don't think a plug kit would help with that kind of
problem, so should I also get a spare core or two to travel with?
I assume the soapy water treatment would work to find a leaking
valve too?
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