I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's.
The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no
sweat.
Now for the 1v-5v step up converter I followed the advice, and remove
the winding of a 5x5 mm ferrite coil and replaced it with a bifilar
wire with the same number of turns. This was surprisingly easy.
.35 mm wire with 2*.25 wire. (The wire was stolen from a broken
ventilator.)
Now I get stuck. I can't solder the wire! The aspirine trick doesn't
work. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
Groetjes Albert
<albert@spenarnc.xs4all.nl> wrote:
I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's.
The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no
sweat.
Now for the 1v-5v step up converter I followed the advice, and remove
the winding of a 5x5 mm ferrite coil and replaced it with a bifilar
wire with the same number of turns. This was surprisingly easy.
.35 mm wire with 2*.25 wire. (The wire was stolen from a broken
ventilator.)
Now I get stuck. I can't solder the wire! The aspirine trick doesn't
work. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
Groetjes Albert
Put some methylated spirits or ethanol in a small open metal container
such as the lid of a bottle . Set fire to it and hold the end of the
wire in the flame until it is red hot. Plunge it downwards into the
liquid and slide it out sideways so it doesn't get heated a second time.
There will be a chemical reaction between the oxide on the red hot
copper and the ethanol, which removes the oxide and leaves the wire
bright and clean.
Have a piece of metal ready to put over the container to extinguish the
flame and plan in advance how you will deal with the rapidly-spreading
fire if you upset the container. Put the bottle of ethanol some
distance away.
Liz Tuddenham <liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid> wrote:
<albert@spenarnc.xs4all.nl> wrote:
I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's.
The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no
sweat.
Now for the 1v-5v step up converter I followed the advice, and remove
the winding of a 5x5 mm ferrite coil and replaced it with a bifilar
wire with the same number of turns. This was surprisingly easy.
.35 mm wire with 2*.25 wire. (The wire was stolen from a broken
ventilator.)
Now I get stuck. I can't solder the wire! The aspirine trick doesn't
work. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
Groetjes Albert
Put some methylated spirits or ethanol in a small open metal container
such as the lid of a bottle . Set fire to it and hold the end of the
wire in the flame until it is red hot. Plunge it downwards into the
liquid and slide it out sideways so it doesn't get heated a second time.
There will be a chemical reaction between the oxide on the red hot
copper and the ethanol, which removes the oxide and leaves the wire
bright and clean.
Have a piece of metal ready to put over the container to extinguish the flame and plan in advance how you will deal with the rapidly-spreading
fire if you upset the container. Put the bottle of ethanol some
distance away.
Fun. I’ll try it outdoors sometime, but not at my bench!
I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's.
The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no
sweat.
Now for the 1v-5v step up converter I followed the advice, and remove
the winding of a 5x5 mm ferrite coil and replaced it with a bifilar
wire with the same number of turns. This was surprisingly easy.
.35 mm wire with 2*.25 wire. (The wire was stolen from a broken
ventilator.)
Now I get stuck. I can't solder the wire! The aspirine trick doesn't
work. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's.
The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no
sweat.
Now for the 1v-5v step up converter I followed the advice, and remove
the winding of a 5x5 mm ferrite coil and replaced it with a bifilar
wire with the same number of turns. This was surprisingly easy.
.35 mm wire with 2*.25 wire. (The wire was stolen from a broken
ventilator.)
Now I get stuck. I can't solder the wire! The aspirine trick doesn't
work. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
Groetjes Albert
I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's.
The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no
sweat.
Now for the 1v-5v step up converter I followed the advice, and remove
the winding of a 5x5 mm ferrite coil and replaced it with a bifilar
wire with the same number of turns. This was surprisingly easy.
.35 mm wire with 2*.25 wire. (The wire was stolen from a broken
ventilator.)
Now I get stuck. I can't solder the wire! The aspirine trick doesn't
work. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
Groetjes Albert
Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
Liz Tuddenham <liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid> wrote:
<albert@spenarnc.xs4all.nl> wrote:
I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's.
The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no
sweat.
Now for the 1v-5v step up converter I followed the advice, and remove
the winding of a 5x5 mm ferrite coil and replaced it with a bifilar
wire with the same number of turns. This was surprisingly easy.
.35 mm wire with 2*.25 wire. (The wire was stolen from a broken
ventilator.)
Now I get stuck. I can't solder the wire! The aspirine trick doesn't
work. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
Groetjes Albert
Put some methylated spirits or ethanol in a small open metal container
such as the lid of a bottle . Set fire to it and hold the end of the
wire in the flame until it is red hot. Plunge it downwards into the
liquid and slide it out sideways so it doesn't get heated a second time. >> >
There will be a chemical reaction between the oxide on the red hot
copper and the ethanol, which removes the oxide and leaves the wire
bright and clean.
Have a piece of metal ready to put over the container to extinguish the
flame and plan in advance how you will deal with the rapidly-spreading
fire if you upset the container. Put the bottle of ethanol some
distance away.
Fun. I’ll try it outdoors sometime, but not at my bench!
When I worke at Eddystone Radio, that was the standard method of dealing
with Litz wire. The meths pot was like an old fashoined whale-oil lamp
with a spout and it was mounted in an asbestos-lined steel box with a
hinged lid that could be flipped down in emergency.
The chief engineer also used it to light his cigarettes.
----
~ Liz Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk
In article <1redwas.10sf9o41u2k5q8N%liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid>,
Liz Tuddenham <liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid> wrote:
Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
Liz Tuddenham <liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid> wrote:
<albert@spenarnc.xs4all.nl> wrote:
I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's.
The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no
sweat.
Now for the 1v-5v step up converter I followed the advice, and remove >> >> the winding of a 5x5 mm ferrite coil and replaced it with a bifilar
wire with the same number of turns. This was surprisingly easy.
.35 mm wire with 2*.25 wire. (The wire was stolen from a broken
ventilator.)
Now I get stuck. I can't solder the wire! The aspirine trick doesn't
work. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
Groetjes Albert
Put some methylated spirits or ethanol in a small open metal container >> > such as the lid of a bottle . Set fire to it and hold the end of the
wire in the flame until it is red hot. Plunge it downwards into the
liquid and slide it out sideways so it doesn't get heated a second time. >> >
There will be a chemical reaction between the oxide on the red hot
copper and the ethanol, which removes the oxide and leaves the wire
bright and clean.
Have a piece of metal ready to put over the container to extinguish the >> > flame and plan in advance how you will deal with the rapidly-spreading >> > fire if you upset the container. Put the bottle of ethanol some
distance away.
Fun. I’ll try it outdoors sometime, but not at my bench!
When I worke at Eddystone Radio, that was the standard method of dealing >with Litz wire. The meths pot was like an old fashoined whale-oil lamp >with a spout and it was mounted in an asbestos-lined steel box with a >hinged lid that could be flipped down in emergency.
The chief engineer also used it to light his cigarettes.
This doesn't appreciate the fact that better and better plastics
are used. E.g. a bag of nuts can't be opened by hand, you
really need a knife for that.
The inner surface of a soda can is coated. I tried to burn it
off, then polish it. Forget it! The soda can is destroyed before
the coating gets it.
Mechanical removing of the coating is always possible, but it is
increasingly difficult if the wire gets thinner, 0.25 mm.
I'll try the Liz method. This resemble what I have already tried,
but my wire melted. It is also clear that I have to have tinned
the wire before winding the coil.
Liz Tuddenham <liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid> wrote:
<albert@spenarnc.xs4all.nl> wrote:
I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's.
The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no
sweat.
Now for the 1v-5v step up converter I followed the advice, and remove
the winding of a 5x5 mm ferrite coil and replaced it with a bifilar
wire with the same number of turns. This was surprisingly easy.
.35 mm wire with 2*.25 wire. (The wire was stolen from a broken
ventilator.)
Now I get stuck. I can't solder the wire! The aspirine trick doesn't
work. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
Groetjes Albert
Put some methylated spirits or ethanol in a small open metal container
such as the lid of a bottle . Set fire to it and hold the end of the
wire in the flame until it is red hot. Plunge it downwards into the
liquid and slide it out sideways so it doesn't get heated a second time.
There will be a chemical reaction between the oxide on the red hot
copper and the ethanol, which removes the oxide and leaves the wire
bright and clean.
Have a piece of metal ready to put over the container to extinguish the
flame and plan in advance how you will deal with the rapidly-spreading
fire if you upset the container. Put the bottle of ethanol some
distance away.
Fun. I’ll try it outdoors sometime, but not at my bench!
A less exciting approach is a bottle of GC Strip-X. I don’t know if it’s >still available—I don’t recommend using that as a search term. :(
The right answer is probably a solder pot.
On Mon, 23 Jun 2025 12:44:18 -0000 (UTC), Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
Liz Tuddenham <liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid> wrote:
<albert@spenarnc.xs4all.nl> wrote:
I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's.
The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no
sweat.
Now for the 1v-5v step up converter I followed the advice, and remove
the winding of a 5x5 mm ferrite coil and replaced it with a bifilar
wire with the same number of turns. This was surprisingly easy.
.35 mm wire with 2*.25 wire. (The wire was stolen from a broken
ventilator.)
Now I get stuck. I can't solder the wire! The aspirine trick doesn't
work. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
Groetjes Albert
Put some methylated spirits or ethanol in a small open metal container
such as the lid of a bottle . Set fire to it and hold the end of the
wire in the flame until it is red hot. Plunge it downwards into the
liquid and slide it out sideways so it doesn't get heated a second time. >>>
There will be a chemical reaction between the oxide on the red hot
copper and the ethanol, which removes the oxide and leaves the wire
bright and clean.
Have a piece of metal ready to put over the container to extinguish the
flame and plan in advance how you will deal with the rapidly-spreading
fire if you upset the container. Put the bottle of ethanol some
distance away.
I'll have to try this. The ethanol has to be acting as if it were
producer gas or the like.
Fun. IÂ’ll try it outdoors sometime, but not at my bench!
A less exciting approach is a bottle of GC Strip-X. I don’t know if it’s >> still available—I don’t recommend using that as a search term. :(
Is that GC, or MG Chemical? GC makes mechanical strippers these days.
The right answer is probably a solder pot.
Which won't work with Formvar coatings at all. There are stripped mechanically, with rotating rubber eraser wheels that wear plastic far
faster than copper.
What would also work would be a small pot of hot lye solution.
I've used the melted aspirin tablet approach, and it does work, but
the smoke is quite noxious.
term. :(
A less exciting approach is a bottle of GC Strip-X. I donÂ’t know if
it’s still available—I don’t recommend using that as a search
substitute.htmlGC, as in General Chemical, iirc.
Is that GC, or MG Chemical? GC makes mechanical strippers these days.
The right answer is probably a solder pot.
Which won't work with Formvar coatings at all. There are stripped
mechanically, with rotating rubber eraser wheels that wear plastic far
faster than copper.
What would also work would be a small pot of hot lye solution.
I've used the melted aspirin tablet approach, and it does work, but the
smoke is quite noxious.
Famous for Q Dope among other radio stuff.
https://radiobanter.com/homebrew/23754-magnet-wire-stripper-gel-
IIRC it smelled like Easy-Off, a lye-based oven cleaner paste, with
maybe some TCE like old time paint stripper (you know, the stuff that actually worked—Polystrippa, I think).
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's.
The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no
sweat.
<albert@spenarnc.xs4all.nl> wrote:
In article <1redwas.10sf9o41u2k5q8N%liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid>,
Liz Tuddenham <liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid> wrote:
Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
Liz Tuddenham <liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid> wrote:
<albert@spenarnc.xs4all.nl> wrote:
I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's. >>>>>> The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no >>>>>> sweat.
Now for the 1v-5v step up converter I followed the advice, and remove >>>>>> the winding of a 5x5 mm ferrite coil and replaced it with a bifilar >>>>>> wire with the same number of turns. This was surprisingly easy.
.35 mm wire with 2*.25 wire. (The wire was stolen from a broken
ventilator.)
Now I get stuck. I can't solder the wire! The aspirine trick doesn't >>>>>> work. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
Groetjes Albert
Put some methylated spirits or ethanol in a small open metal container >>>>> such as the lid of a bottle . Set fire to it and hold the end of the >>>>> wire in the flame until it is red hot. Plunge it downwards into the >>>>> liquid and slide it out sideways so it doesn't get heated a second time. >>>>>
There will be a chemical reaction between the oxide on the red hot
copper and the ethanol, which removes the oxide and leaves the wire
bright and clean.
Have a piece of metal ready to put over the container to extinguish the >>>>> flame and plan in advance how you will deal with the rapidly-spreading >>>>> fire if you upset the container. Put the bottle of ethanol some
distance away.
Fun. I’ll try it outdoors sometime, but not at my bench!
When I worke at Eddystone Radio, that was the standard method of dealing >>> with Litz wire. The meths pot was like an old fashoined whale-oil lamp
with a spout and it was mounted in an asbestos-lined steel box with a
hinged lid that could be flipped down in emergency.
The chief engineer also used it to light his cigarettes.
This doesn't appreciate the fact that better and better plastics
are used. E.g. a bag of nuts can't be opened by hand, you
really need a knife for that.
The inner surface of a soda can is coated. I tried to burn it
off, then polish it. Forget it! The soda can is destroyed before
the coating gets it.
Mechanical removing of the coating is always possible, but it is
increasingly difficult if the wire gets thinner, 0.25 mm.
Some wires now have a 'self-fluxing' coating, which breaks down at
soldering temperature and allows the wire to be easily tinned, but your description of the problems you were having suggested that this wire
wasn't the self-fluxing type.
I'll try the Liz method. This resemble what I have already tried,
but my wire melted. It is also clear that I have to have tinned
the wire before winding the coil.
You may find that the lower temperature of an ethanol flame doesn't melt
the wire (assuming the wire is copper, not aluminium). The base of the
flame will be cooler than the top, so you may be able to find a suitable temperature zone which produces just enough heat to remove the oxide
when you quench it. The wire should then be easily tinned with ordinary flux-cored solder.
If the wire is getting too hot too fast and melting, or if the wire
cools down too much so that it is no longer red hot when it plunges into
the alcohol, then it can help to twist it with a bunch of short similar diameter copper wires (which can be bare copper e.g. from a mains
cable), so that the wire being heated has more thermal mass. If I can
get the thermal time constant to be at least a second, I find that makes
the process easier to control.
On Tue, 24 Jun 2025 01:05:49 -0000 (UTC), Phil Hobbs wrote:
<clip
term. :(
A less exciting approach is a bottle of GC Strip-X. I donÂ’t know if
it’s still available—I don’t recommend using that as a search
substitute.htmlGC, as in General Chemical, iirc.
Is that GC, or MG Chemical? GC makes mechanical strippers these days.
The right answer is probably a solder pot.
Which won't work with Formvar coatings at all. There are stripped
mechanically, with rotating rubber eraser wheels that wear plastic far
faster than copper.
What would also work would be a small pot of hot lye solution.
I've used the melted aspirin tablet approach, and it does work, but the
smoke is quite noxious.
Famous for Q Dope among other radio stuff.
https://radiobanter.com/homebrew/23754-magnet-wire-stripper-gel-
IIRC it smelled like Easy-Off, a lye-based oven cleaner paste, with
maybe some TCE like old time paint stripper (you know, the stuff that
actually worked—Polystrippa, I think).
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
I think the active ingredient in the old style paint strippers was
methylene chloride, hard to get these days, but you can still get solvent based epoxy paint strippers which have substituted a solvent not yet
proven to be a strong carcinogen. Jasco Premium Paint & Epoxy Remover is
one example readily available in the US.
Zylene is also readily available in the US, it will strip construction adhesive (epoxy strippers won't), haven't tried it on epoxy but it might work. Use in something resembling a fume hood, it smells like your
olfactory nerves are being attacked by a blowtorch. Epoxy stripper is not much better.
The alcohol torch method is probably a lot safer, or mechanical stripping
of solid wire (hard to do on litz).
Glen
On Tue, 24 Jun 2025 01:05:49 -0000 (UTC), Phil Hobbs wrote:
<clip
term. :(
A less exciting approach is a bottle of GC Strip-X. I don?t know if
it?s still available?I don?t recommend using that as a search
GC, as in General Chemical, iirc.
Is that GC, or MG Chemical? GC makes mechanical strippers these days.
The right answer is probably a solder pot.
Which won't work with Formvar coatings at all. There are stripped
mechanically, with rotating rubber eraser wheels that wear plastic far
faster than copper.
What would also work would be a small pot of hot lye solution.
I've used the melted aspirin tablet approach, and it does work, but the
smoke is quite noxious.
Famous for Q Dope among other radio stuff.
< https://radiobanter.com/homebrew/23754-magnet-wire-stripper-gel-substitute.html >
IIRC it smelled like Easy-Off, a lye-based oven cleaner paste, with
maybe some TCE like old time paint stripper (you know, the stuff that
actually worked—Polystrippa, I think).
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
I think the active ingredient in the old style paint strippers was
methylene chloride, hard to get these days, but you can still get solvent >based epoxy paint strippers which have substituted a solvent not yet
proven to be a strong carcinogen. Jasco Premium Paint & Epoxy Remover is
one example readily available in the US.
Zylene is also readily available in the US, it will strip construction >adhesive (epoxy strippers won't), haven't tried it on epoxy but it might >work. Use in something resembling a fume hood, it smells like your
olfactory nerves are being attacked by a blowtorch. Epoxy stripper is not >much better.
The alcohol torch method is probably a lot safer, or mechanical stripping
of solid wire (hard to do on litz).
I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's.
The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no
sweat.
Now for the 1v-5v step up converter I followed the advice, and remove
the winding of a 5x5 mm ferrite coil and replaced it with a bifilar
wire with the same number of turns. This was surprisingly easy.
.35 mm wire with 2*.25 wire. (The wire was stolen from a broken
ventilator.)
Now I get stuck. I can't solder the wire! The aspirine trick doesn't
work. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
On 6/23/25 12:21, albert@spenarnc.xs4all.nl wrote:
I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's.
The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no
sweat.
Now for the 1v-5v step up converter I followed the advice, and remove
the winding of a 5x5 mm ferrite coil and replaced it with a bifilar
wire with the same number of turns. This was surprisingly easy.
.35 mm wire with 2*.25 wire. (The wire was stolen from a broken
ventilator.)
Now I get stuck. I can't solder the wire! The aspirine trick doesn't
work. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
are you sure it is copper and not copper coated aluminium?
On Tue, 24 Jun 2025 22:41:20 +0200, Lasse Langwadt <llc@fonz.dk>
wrote:
On 6/23/25 12:21, albert@spenarnc.xs4all.nl wrote:
I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's.
The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no
sweat.
Now for the 1v-5v step up converter I followed the advice, and remove
the winding of a 5x5 mm ferrite coil and replaced it with a bifilar
wire with the same number of turns. This was surprisingly easy.
.35 mm wire with 2*.25 wire. (The wire was stolen from a broken
ventilator.)
Now I get stuck. I can't solder the wire! The aspirine trick doesn't
work. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
are you sure it is copper and not copper coated aluminium?
Wouldn't the aluminum reveal itself by melting?
On 6/25/25 00:28, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jun 2025 22:41:20 +0200, Lasse Langwadt <llc@fonz.dk>
wrote:
On 6/23/25 12:21, albert@spenarnc.xs4all.nl wrote:
I remember soldering coil/transformer wire was simple in the 70's.
The trick was putting the wire an aspirin tablet and 0.1 mm was no
sweat.
Now for the 1v-5v step up converter I followed the advice, and remove
the winding of a 5x5 mm ferrite coil and replaced it with a bifilar
wire with the same number of turns. This was surprisingly easy.
.35 mm wire with 2*.25 wire. (The wire was stolen from a broken
ventilator.)
Now I get stuck. I can't solder the wire! The aspirine trick doesn't
work. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
are you sure it is copper and not copper coated aluminium?
Wouldn't the aluminum reveal itself by melting?
yes, copper usually just glows, aluminium melts
I find it unlikely with house hold items to find aluminum wires.
The wire I use is .25 mm. In a natural gas flame this melts
readily. This must be copper or I would have not the slightest
chance to solder it.
In article <nnd$3c2ee3c9$5821dd46@9a3444084143502b>, albert@spenarnc.xs4all.nl says...
I find it unlikely with house hold items to find aluminum wires.
The wire I use is .25 mm. In a natural gas flame this melts
readily. This must be copper or I would have not the slightest
chance to solder it.
I have noticed that many wires comming from China or bought on ebay is
copper coated aluminum (if not some other thing that is not mentioned)
In article <nnd$3c2ee3c9$5821dd46@9a3444084143502b>, >albert@spenarnc.xs4all.nl says...
I find it unlikely with house hold items to find aluminum wires.
The wire I use is .25 mm. In a natural gas flame this melts
readily. This must be copper or I would have not the slightest
chance to solder it.
I have noticed that many wires comming from China or bought on ebay is
copper coated aluminum (if not some other thing that is not mentioned)
Ralph ku4pt
. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
[...]
. Burning the insulation turn it into a black coating that
is equally tenacious. Making the copper redhot to burn the coal,
only make the copper to melt.
Are you sure the black substance was carbon (Element 6, Kohlenstoff)?
It might have been black copper oxide, which would not burn away at red
heat.
~ Liz Tuddenham ~
In article <MPG.42c77e58c64c37a898a047@news.eternal-september.org>,
Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net> wrote:
In article <nnd$3c2ee3c9$5821dd46@9a3444084143502b>,
albert@spenarnc.xs4all.nl says...
I find it unlikely with house hold items to find aluminum wires.
The wire I use is .25 mm. In a natural gas flame this melts
readily. This must be copper or I would have not the slightest
chance to solder it.
I have noticed that many wires comming from China or bought on ebay is
copper coated aluminum (if not some other thing that is not mentioned)
Aluminium is cheaper than copper, but i doubt that copper coating
.25 mm wire is cost effective.
The Chinese are so advanced that they draw aluminium wire in vacuum -
to avoid oxidation - and then run them -ma shang- through molten
copper, to spare a few bucks on material?
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