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Hi folks I'm really new with electronics. Doing a massive project for a
retro computer system and, as a prong of this project I'm attempting to
locate a modern equivalent of the board components. Enter the tantalum capacitor. Having gone to digikey, mouser, and newark none of them seem
to have the item I'm looking for in stock.

What are the rules about alternate values? The tantalum cap I'm looking
for, according to the service manual, has the following rating:

1uf,10v, +-20%.

The DIP style cap that the board uses isn't in stock anywhere so would I
be able to substitute this cap for 1uf, 20v, +-20%?

Thanks,

Daniel

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On 2023-03-01 09:06, Daniel wrote:

Hi folks I'm really new with electronics. Doing a massive project for a
retro computer system and, as a prong of this project I'm attempting to locate a modern equivalent of the board components. Enter the tantalum capacitor. Having gone to digikey, mouser, and newark none of them seem
to have the item I'm looking for in stock.

What are the rules about alternate values? The tantalum cap I'm looking
for, according to the service manual, has the following rating:

1uf,10v, +-20%.

The DIP style cap that the board uses isn't in stock anywhere so would I
be able to substitute this cap for 1uf, 20v, +-20%?

Thanks,

Daniel

Going up in voltage rating is fine. There might possibly be an issue if
the effective series resistance (ESR) is higher, but all solid tants
have highish ESR anyway, so it's unlikely to make a noticeable difference.

(Polymer tants are a different animal.)

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

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On 2023-03-01, Daniel <me@sc1f1dan.com> wrote:

Hi folks I'm really new with electronics. Doing a massive project for a
retro computer system and, as a prong of this project I'm attempting to locate a modern equivalent of the board components. Enter the tantalum capacitor. Having gone to digikey, mouser, and newark none of them seem
to have the item I'm looking for in stock.

What are the rules about alternate values?

lower percentage good, higher voltage good.
same or close capacitance good,
sometimes more capacitance is good.

The tantalum cap I'm looking
for, according to the service manual, has the following rating:

1uf,10v, +-20%.

The DIP style cap that the board uses isn't in stock anywhere so would I
be able to substitute this cap for 1uf, 20v, +-20%?

DIP: I guessing you mean radial pins.

With tantalum going up in voltage leads to improved reliability
if this is a 5V or 8V supply decoupling capacitor the 20V part is much
better suited.

On the other hand inexpensive 1uF ceramic capacitors are now available
and might be an even better substitute (even better reliability), but
that depends mostly on the power supply being able to start with the
reduced series resistance presented by the ceramic parts.

--
Jasen.
pǝsɹǝʌǝɹ sʇɥƃᴉɹ ll∀

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On 2023-03-01 19:17, Jasen Betts wrote:

On 2023-03-01, Daniel <me@sc1f1dan.com> wrote:

Hi folks I'm really new with electronics. Doing a massive project for a
retro computer system and, as a prong of this project I'm attempting to
locate a modern equivalent of the board components. Enter the tantalum
capacitor. Having gone to digikey, mouser, and newark none of them seem
to have the item I'm looking for in stock.

What are the rules about alternate values?

lower percentage good, higher voltage good.
same or close capacitance good,
sometimes more capacitance is good.

The tantalum cap I'm looking
for, according to the service manual, has the following rating:

1uf,10v, +-20%.

The DIP style cap that the board uses isn't in stock anywhere so would I
be able to substitute this cap for 1uf, 20v, +-20%?

DIP: I guessing you mean radial pins.

BITD you could get tants with actual 0.2 inch, 4-pin DIP patterns.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

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On 2023-03-01 19:54, Phil Hobbs wrote:

On 2023-03-01 19:17, Jasen Betts wrote:

On 2023-03-01, Daniel <me@sc1f1dan.com> wrote:

Hi folks I'm really new with electronics. Doing a massive project for a
retro computer system and, as a prong of this project I'm attempting to
locate a modern equivalent of the board components. Enter the tantalum
capacitor. Having gone to digikey, mouser, and newark none of them seem
to have the item I'm looking for in stock.

What are the rules about alternate values?

lower percentage good, higher voltage good.
same or close capacitance good,
sometimes more capacitance is good.

The tantalum cap I'm looking
for, according to the service manual, has the following rating:

1uf,10v, +-20%.

The DIP style cap that the board uses isn't in stock anywhere so would I >>> be able to substitute this cap for 1uf, 20v, +-20%?

DIP: I guessing you mean radial pins.

BITD you could get tants with actual

0.3

inch, 4-pin DIP patterns.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

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On 01/03/2023 9:06:01 a.m., Daniel wrote:

1uf,10v, +-20%.

Digikey has dozens of equivalent part numbers in Through hole 1μF
Tantalum 10V or more, 20% or less and millions of caps , so try again.

There are other parameters for reliability and size. but ESR is not one
of them. These all tend to be OK like low ESR aluminum types with ESR*C
product less than or equal to 10 microseconds.

This is well above the audio bandwidth. f=0.44/RC but we have no way of
knowing how it is used.


1μF,20v, +-10%. < I suggest but if it matters you can also search with filters for;

Price
Series
Package
Product Status
Capacitance
Tolerance
Voltage - Rated
Type
ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance)
Operating Temperature
Lifetime @ Temp.
Mounting Type
Package / Case
Size / Dimension
Height - Seated (Max)
Lead Spacing
Manufacturer Size Code
Ratings
Features
Failure Rate

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Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> writes:

On 2023-03-01 09:06, Daniel wrote:

Hi folks I'm really new with electronics. Doing a massive project for a
retro computer system and, as a prong of this project I'm attempting to
locate a modern equivalent of the board components. Enter the tantalum
capacitor. Having gone to digikey, mouser, and newark none of them seem
to have the item I'm looking for in stock.
What are the rules about alternate values? The tantalum cap I'm
looking
for, according to the service manual, has the following rating:
1uf,10v, +-20%.
The DIP style cap that the board uses isn't in stock anywhere so
would I
be able to substitute this cap for 1uf, 20v, +-20%?
Thanks,
Daniel

Going up in voltage rating is fine. There might possibly be an issue
if the effective series resistance (ESR) is higher, but all solid
tants have highish ESR anyway, so it's unlikely to make a noticeable difference.

(Polymer tants are a different animal.)

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

I know it's really late in the game but I wanted to thank everyone for
their patient answers.

Alot has been going on in real life and had to take a long long break
from the newsgroups due to that, and as well as forgetting to check in.

I'm catching up on hundreds of messages on newsgroups and on IRC and in
the BBS scene.

I did order my components though, but haven't made much traction on the
project I posted about.

Someday.

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Daniel wrote on 19/6/24 5:32 pm:

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> writes:

On 2023-03-01 09:06, Daniel wrote:

Hi folks I'm really new with electronics. Doing a massive project
for a retro computer system and, as a prong of this project I'm
attempting to locate a modern equivalent of the board components.
Enter the tantalum capacitor. Having gone to digikey, mouser, and
newark none of them seem to have the item I'm looking for in
stock. What are the rules about alternate values? The tantalum
cap I'm looking for, according to the service manual, has the
following rating: 1uf,10v, +-20%. The DIP style cap that the
board uses isn't in stock anywhere so would I be able to
substitute this cap for 1uf, 20v, +-20%? Thanks, Daniel

Going up in voltage rating is fine. There might possibly be an
issue if the effective series resistance (ESR) is higher, but all
solid tants have highish ESR anyway, so it's unlikely to make a
noticeable difference.

(Polymer tants are a different animal.)

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

I know it's really late in the game but I wanted to thank everyone
for their patient answers.

Hey, at least you have (now) gotten back to us! ;-P

Alot has been going on in real life and had to take a long long
break from the newsgroups due to that, and as well as forgetting to
check in.

Isn't it a bummer when Life gets in the way??

I'm catching up on hundreds of messages on newsgroups and on IRC and
in the BBS scene.

We'll still be here .... well, some of us. ;-P

I did order my components though, but haven't made much traction on
the project I posted about.

Someday.

"Someday" .... Isn't that a line from a song from way back when??
--
Daniel

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Daniel70 <daniel47@nomail.afraid.org> writes:

Daniel wrote on 19/6/24 5:32 pm:

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> writes:

On 2023-03-01 09:06, Daniel wrote:

Hi folks I'm really new with electronics. Doing a massive project
for a retro computer system and, as a prong of this project I'm
attempting to locate a modern equivalent of the board components.
Enter the tantalum capacitor. Having gone to digikey, mouser, and
newark none of them seem to have the item I'm looking for in
stock. What are the rules about alternate values? The tantalum
cap I'm looking for, according to the service manual, has the
following rating: 1uf,10v, +-20%. The DIP style cap that the
board uses isn't in stock anywhere so would I be able to
substitute this cap for 1uf, 20v, +-20%? Thanks, Daniel

Going up in voltage rating is fine. There might possibly be an
issue if the effective series resistance (ESR) is higher, but all
solid tants have highish ESR anyway, so it's unlikely to make a
noticeable difference.
(Polymer tants are a different animal.)
Cheers
Phil Hobbs

I know it's really late in the game but I wanted to thank everyone
for their patient answers.

Hey, at least you have (now) gotten back to us! ;-P

Alot has been going on in real life and had to take a long long
break from the newsgroups due to that, and as well as forgetting to
check in.

Isn't it a bummer when Life gets in the way??

I'm catching up on hundreds of messages on newsgroups and on IRC and
in the BBS scene.

We'll still be here .... well, some of us. ;-P

I did order my components though, but haven't made much traction on
the project I posted about.
Someday.

"Someday" .... Isn't that a line from a song from way back when??

Thanks m8. Actually had some progress this weekend. Got two spanking new computers and I have been working on getting them up to speed the way I
like it. Primary computer is pretty much done. Secondary computer is 80%
of what it's replacing and 0% of the additions I'll be adding on.

I cleared out all the old computers, cabling of all types, and freed up
an immense amount of space on my rack. This is where my solder station
will be stored and various projects.

So when I get started back up, they will be in my face. Major project in
scope right now taking focus from this hobby.

Daniel

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Daniel wrote on 26/6/24 7:11 pm:

Daniel70 <daniel47@nomail.afraid.org> writes:

Daniel wrote on 19/6/24 5:32 pm:

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> writes:

On 2023-03-01 09:06, Daniel wrote:

Hi folks I'm really new with electronics. Doing a massive project
for a retro computer system and, as a prong of this project I'm
attempting to locate a modern equivalent of the board components.
Enter the tantalum capacitor. Having gone to digikey, mouser, and
newark none of them seem to have the item I'm looking for in
stock. What are the rules about alternate values? The tantalum
cap I'm looking for, according to the service manual, has the
following rating: 1uf,10v, +-20%. The DIP style cap that the
board uses isn't in stock anywhere so would I be able to
substitute this cap for 1uf, 20v, +-20%? Thanks, Daniel

Going up in voltage rating is fine. There might possibly be an
issue if the effective series resistance (ESR) is higher, but all
solid tants have highish ESR anyway, so it's unlikely to make a
noticeable difference.
(Polymer tants are a different animal.)
Cheers
Phil Hobbs

I know it's really late in the game but I wanted to thank everyone
for their patient answers.

Hey, at least you have (now) gotten back to us! ;-P

Alot has been going on in real life and had to take a long long
break from the newsgroups due to that, and as well as forgetting to
check in.

Isn't it a bummer when Life gets in the way??

I'm catching up on hundreds of messages on newsgroups and on IRC and
in the BBS scene.

We'll still be here .... well, some of us. ;-P

I did order my components though, but haven't made much traction on
the project I posted about.
Someday.

"Someday" .... Isn't that a line from a song from way back when??

Thanks m8. Actually had some progress this weekend. Got two spanking new computers and I have been working on getting them up to speed the way I
like it. Primary computer is pretty much done. Secondary computer is 80%
of what it's replacing and 0% of the additions I'll be adding on.

This HP Laptop is getting a bit long in the tooth (2007 vintage, I
think) ... so recently I went on a Shopping Spree and brought myself a
brand new Desktop for about $700

It hasn't made it out of the box yet .... I'm soooo used to using this
Laptop on a little T.V. Dinner-type table with the T.V. over the top of
the screen.

Having to convert to a Desktop Computer just seems to be too much trouble!!
--
Daniel

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Capacitors seem to be the electronic component most likely to fail. My late EE'64 (and before that submariner) uncle used to tap them with the back of
his screwdriver to find which one failed. Most often, they were what was
wrong.

--
Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

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On 2024/07/05 9:32 p.m., vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:

Capacitors seem to be the electronic component most likely to fail. My late EE'64 (and before that submariner) uncle used to tap them with the back of his screwdriver to find which one failed. Most often, they were what was wrong.

I tap electronic tubes to see if they are good, but you say he tapped capacitors? Electrolytics I guess, might show issues when tapped, like
poor internal connections.

Interesting hadn't really thought of that as a test for caps...

John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
#7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

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John Robertson wrote on Sun, 7 Jul 2024 23:44:49 -0700:

I tap electronic tubes to see if they are good, but you say he tapped >capacitors? Electrolytics I guess, might show issues when tapped, like
poor internal connections.

Interesting hadn't really thought of that as a test for caps...

John :-#)#

I used to press the tops of old electrolytic capacitors. When they were
bad they would pop up like the safety lid on food jars after you open
them. Maybe they get soft on the sides on too.

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John Robertson wrote on 8/7/24 4:44 pm:

On 2024/07/05 9:32 p.m., vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:

Capacitors seem to be the electronic component most likely to fail.
My late EE'64 (and before that submariner) uncle used to tap them
with the back of his screwdriver to find which one failed. Most
often, they were what was wrong.

I tap electronic tubes to see if they are good, but you say he tapped capacitors? Electrolytics I guess, might show issues when tapped,
like poor internal connections.

Interesting hadn't really thought of that as a test for caps...

John :-#)#

I'd think tapping Capacitors might show up any dry solder joints used to connect the Caps into the circuit.
--
Daniel

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