Hey -signal to apply to the circuit coming from that current adjustment knob.
So, I have an AHP 200DX (TIG & stick), but there are times when I wish I had a MIG machine. I seriously don't have the room for both.
I understand why MIG is CV and the others are CC, but I'm wondering whether I could whack together a circuit (been a professional circuit whacker for something over 40 years) that would measure the output voltage and convert that to an appropriate
The circuitry should be pretty simple, and the implementation should, as well. What I don't know is whether this is going to work, and I'm not really in need of yet another project, but if it's as simple as I think it might be...
So does this sound like a thing worth pusuing, or is it just plain nuts?
I await your answers.
Hey -
So, I have an AHP 200DX (TIG & stick), but there are times when I wish I
had a MIG machine. I seriously don't have the room for both.
I understand why MIG is CV and the others are CC, but I'm wondering
whether I could whack together a circuit (been a professional circuit
whacker for something over 40 years) that would measure the output voltage and convert that to an appropriate signal to apply to the circuit coming
from that current adjustment knob.
The circuitry should be pretty simple, and the implementation should, as well. What I don't know is whether this is going to work, and I'm not
really in need of yet another project, but if it's as simple as I think it might be...
So does this sound like a thing worth pusuing, or is it just plain nuts?
I await your answers.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:thkrvf$32hfo$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/4/2022 9:48 AM, Jesse Bear wrote:
Hey -
So, I have an AHP 200DX (TIG & stick), but there are times when I wish
I had a MIG machine. I seriously don't have the room for both.
I understand why MIG is CV and the others are CC, but I'm wondering
whether I could whack together a circuit (been a professional circuit
whacker for something over 40 years) that would measure the output
voltage and convert that to an appropriate signal to apply to the
circuit coming from that current adjustment knob.
The circuitry should be pretty simple, and the implementation should,
as well. What I don't know is whether this is going to work, and I'm
not really in need of yet another project, but if it's as simple as I
think it might be...
So does this sound like a thing worth pusuing, or is it just plain nuts?
I await your answers.
I am going to tell you the answer you specifically said you didn't want.
Buy a MIG welder and have both. An adapter box if one exists is likely
to be just as big a a small/medium inverter MIG welder.
Everlast, Harbor Freight (currently - the old ones were shit), and USA
Welds all seem to have decent import machines if you don't want to
spring for a Lincoln or a Miller. There are cheaper machines too, but well...
Bob La Londe
--------------------------
I agree. Although I gave you an idea of how to characterize the output
of a stick welder, that's only the first and easiest step, and there are
so many things to go wrong with MIG that you won't know where to look
for the problem. I suggest that you take a night school class to learn
from a pro on industrial-grade equipment, then maybe you can get a
student discount on a trade-in at a welding shop. That's what I did. The trade-ins had proven too small for commercial work but are fine for a hobbyist who can design to stay within their limits.
After learning on the big machines I repeated the course with my own equipment so the instructor could show me how set and operate it
properly. Fortunately I have a small crane that mounts in the bed of the pickup and didn't have to leave it there between classes.
...Fortunately I have a small crane that mounts in the bed of the pickup
and didn't have to leave it there between classes.
"Snag" wrote in message news:thlbeq$36q2h$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/5/2022 5:08 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...Fortunately I have a small crane that mounts in the bed of the
pickup and didn't have to leave it there between classes.
I need to add a socket for the pivoting job crane in the back corner
of my pickup bed . I already have a "portable" base and a socket in the
front corner of my utility trailer .
Snag
------------------
The crane base was easy to add to my 1991 Ranger by attaching it to the
bed bolts I haven't figured out how to move it to a truck without the
bolts that install from above. A heavy load on the crane bends the 3/8"
bar stock base up as much as an inch and I can't see sheet metal holding nearly as much.
https://i.stack.imgur.com/lOexT.jpg
The crane base was easy to add to my 1991 Ranger ...
On 10/6/2022 3:51 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message news:thlbeq$36q2h$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/5/2022 5:08 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...Fortunately I have a small crane that mounts in the bed of the
pickup and didn't have to leave it there between classes.
I need to add a socket for the pivoting job crane in the back corner
of my pickup bed . I already have a "portable" base and a socket in the
front corner of my utility trailer .
Snag
------------------
The crane base was easy to add to my 1991 Ranger by attaching it to
the bed bolts I haven't figured out how to move it to a truck without
the bolts that install from above. A heavy load on the crane bends the
3/8" bar stock base up as much as an inch and I can't see sheet metal
holding nearly as much.
https://i.stack.imgur.com/lOexT.jpg
Maybe in a way similar to the way removable 5th wheel (gooseneck plate
also) rails may be installed. A heavy angle bracket is bolted through
the frame. Then the rails are bolted through the bed and through the
angle bracket. All (most) of the stresses are on the frame this way.
Hmmm... maybe I should make a pickup crane plate that pins to the rails
in my 3/4 ton truck. Nah. Just another thing in the way 99.9% of the
time in the shop when its not being used. Just like my gooseneck hitch plate and my fifth wheel hitch.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:thnaus$3ek94$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/6/2022 3:51 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
The crane base was easy to add to my 1991 Ranger ...
Maybe in a way similar to the way removable 5th wheel (gooseneck plate
also) rails may be installed. A heavy angle bracket is bolted through
the frame. Then the rails are bolted through the bed and through the
angle bracket. All (most) of the stresses are on the frame this way.
Hmmm... maybe I should make a pickup crane plate that pins to the rails
in my 3/4 ton truck. Nah. Just another thing in the way 99.9% of the
time in the shop when its not being used. Just like my gooseneck hitch plate and my fifth wheel hitch.
Bob La Londe
-------------------
When the truck was new I fitted PT blocks into the stake pockets and cross-drilled them for 7/8" aluminum pins through the pockets' lower
rope tie holes, then drilled and tapped the wood and pins for vertical
3/8" SS eye bolts. Rubber grommets pushed onto the eye bolts seal to the separate bed liner to keep rain out.
Later when I needed a ladder rack the eyes served as the attachment. The
rack is made of PT 2x4 legs and a 4x4 cross rail. The bottoms of the
legs were slotted to fit over the stake bed eyes and cross drilled for attachment eye (tie off) bolts that pass through centering bushings in
the stake eyes. Since the truck is old enough to have rain gutters on
the cab roof a pair of canoe racks on them serves as the front of the
ladder rack. The forward eyes hold diagonal braces for the rear uprights
made from 1" conduit, as smaller conduit failed my 750 Lb proof test.
I mounted the rack in the forward bed eyes to winch a garden tractor up
ramps into the bed. I think it could be guyed and tilted back enough to
lift a load past the rear bumper, or certainly to slide it up ramps.
I keep looking for a new truck that can do what the 91 will, with its 7'
bed.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ti79dk$1ipb8$2@dont-email.me...
If nothing happens to my current truck I would like to just keep maintaining/repairing it until I die or don't need a truck anymore.
2007 Duramax Diesel 4x4 Crew Cab. Fills any need for a multi passenger sedan. Hauls or tows almost anything I need to haul or tow. Has so
much torque I sometimes forget I am towing until I pass somebody and see
the trailer dragging along in the rear view mirror. I have been using
the newer Jeep for a daily driver and light towing to save the truck for things that need it. The truck isn't to bad in the sand either, though
it does need an air down in places the Jeep will just float over. Its a good reminder "that the more off road capable is your truck the longer
you have to walk to find a tractor." I've been considering removing the
AT tires and switching it back to highway touring tires for the
marginally better mileage.
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff
-----------------
Mechanics tell me they are very busy keeping older vehicles in service.
I stocked up on the common maintenance items, plugs, filters etc, but
I'm finding that other parts are no longer available from the dealer,
like my 2000 car's harmonic balancer and alternator mounting bracket, or hugely overpriced such as lower window trim moldings (water seals) for
over $100 apiece.
If the part failed from age on my car I can't expect a junkyard or eBay
one to be better.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ti79dk$1ipb8$2@dont-email.me...
P.P.S. I remember folks coming in my dad's hardware store. We had
three lines of hand tools. Master Mechanic, Challenger, and Proto.
Hardly anybody bought Proto after they learned Challenger (cheaper) was
made by Proto. We sold a lot of Master Mechanic. I even managed the
store for a year or so, and I don't remember ever having anybody bring
one back. In fact upon reflection of the tools I've broken the only
Master Mechanic I recall breaking was a socket I ground down to fit a
low clearance application. Many years later, long after it had done the
job I ground it for. I've lost a few on the other hand. I think the
brand is still around, but it hasn't been made in USA since the 80s. I don't buy them.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:tihfu2$pnh$1@gioia.aioe.org...
On 10/16/2022 4:44 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:ti79dk$1ipb8$2@dont-email.me...
I suspect you could make an alternator bracket.
-------------------
I eventually found wrenches that fit onto all three of its barely
accessible bolts and removed them in only half an hour, 1/12 turn at a
time. A website showed which parts to remove or loosen (the brake
booster) to clear enough space to remove the alternator upwards. The bracket cleaned up well, even the sliding bushing. Only the alternator
pivot bolt was severely rusted in place, enough that it twisted off, but
it was in stock. I'd sprayed LPS-3 on everything I could reach,
unfortunately the alternator is hidden above an inboard CV joint.
That CRV gave me 20 years of almost trouble free service. Years 21 and
22 have been difficult, mainly from road salt rust.
I figured a trick to make driving up onto ramps easier. I position the
ramps against the front wheels and chocks against the front of the
rears, measure how far the front wheel hub will move to be centered on
the ramp top, then move the chocks that far forward so they stop the car
when the front wheels are in place.
Previously I had slammed on the brakes when the car was in place, and
blew out a rust spot on a brake line, under a shield that had trapped
salty water. I suppose there's no better place than my driveway to have
a brake failure.
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