• Nutri-Blades ???

    From 36J.256@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jul 23 23:52:27 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    They brag about being made of stainless steel.

    However stainless alloys are NOT the best thing
    for ultra-sharp knives. Too soft.

    Now something like 1% carbon steel - THAT'S what
    you want for the best knives ... if tempered
    properly. O2, or some of the air-hardened alloys.

    Yes, it CAN rust - so you have to maintain it
    properly. Gain goes along with some pain.

    These commercials remind me of the old old
    "Ginsu Knives" ... where they showed them
    cutting aluminum cans and then thin-slicing
    tomatoes and such. Yea, maybe ONCE.

    I actually HAVE a few of the old 'Ginsu'
    knives. They stay in the drawer, haven't
    used them in 30+ years. No way to decently
    sharpen them.

    Camp knives and such - try Randall Knives
    (Orlando, FL). THE Best - and you'll PAY
    for it. Fav of commandos and astronauts
    and anyone else who has to do real stuff
    in the field. No, they don't do folders.

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  • From Chasseur@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jul 24 08:49:56 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    Le 2023-07-23 à 23:52, 36J.256 a écrit :
    They brag about being made of stainless steel.

    However stainless alloys are NOT the best thing
    for ultra-sharp knives. Too soft.

    Now something like 1% carbon steel - THAT'S what
    you want for the best knives ... if tempered
    properly. O2, or some of the air-hardened alloys.

    Yes, it CAN rust - so you have to maintain it
    properly. Gain goes along with some pain.

    These commercials remind me of the old old
    "Ginsu Knives" ... where they showed them
    cutting aluminum cans and then thin-slicing
    tomatoes and such. Yea, maybe ONCE.

    I actually HAVE a few of the old 'Ginsu'
    knives. They stay in the drawer, haven't
    used them in 30+ years. No way to decently
    sharpen them.

    Camp knives and such - try Randall Knives
    (Orlando, FL). THE Best - and you'll PAY
    for it. Fav of commandos and astronauts
    and anyone else who has to do real stuff
    in the field. No, they don't do folders.

    Quite right. Actually carbon steel knives are making a comeback. Some
    brands offer for a given model, the possibility for buying it in a
    stainless steel version and a carbon steel version. Case in point
    Morakniv. I had a talk recently with a guy in the military at the local
    gun shop as he was getting ready to buy a knife. When I observed he was
    looking over carbon steel knives he said most of his buddies were going
    for carbon steel for their personal knives. Anyone who has had to
    sharpen a stainless steel knife in the field will tell you no stainless
    steel knife comes close to a good carbon steel blade.

    Chasseur

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  • From 36J.256@21:1/5 to Chasseur on Mon Jul 24 22:06:15 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    On 7/24/23 8:49 AM, Chasseur wrote:
    Le 2023-07-23 à 23:52, 36J.256 a écrit :
    They brag about being made of stainless steel.

    However stainless alloys are NOT the best thing
    for ultra-sharp knives. Too soft.

    Now something like 1% carbon steel - THAT'S what
    you want for the best knives ... if tempered
    properly. O2, or some of the air-hardened alloys.

    Yes, it CAN rust - so you have to maintain it
    properly. Gain goes along with some pain.

    These commercials remind me of the old old
    "Ginsu Knives" ... where they showed them
    cutting aluminum cans and then thin-slicing
    tomatoes and such. Yea, maybe ONCE.

    I actually HAVE a few of the old 'Ginsu'
    knives. They stay in the drawer, haven't
    used them in 30+ years. No way to decently
    sharpen them.

    Camp knives and such - try Randall Knives
    (Orlando, FL). THE Best - and you'll PAY
    for it. Fav of commandos and astronauts
    and anyone else who has to do real stuff
    in the field. No, they don't do folders.

    Quite right. Actually carbon steel knives are making a comeback. Some
    brands offer for a given model, the possibility for buying it in a
    stainless steel version and a carbon steel version. Case in point
    Morakniv. I had a talk recently with a guy in the military at the local
    gun shop as he was getting ready to buy a knife. When I observed he was looking over carbon steel knives he said most of his buddies were going
    for carbon steel for their personal knives. Anyone who has had to
    sharpen a stainless steel knife in the field will tell you no stainless
    steel knife comes close to a good carbon steel blade.


    Yep, no comparison, "real steel" rules.

    Actually I wrote Randall-Made and asked if they still
    do "real steel" but never got back a reply. Their SS
    is very good - and you'll pay about $500 for it - but
    still, I'd rather have the good old stuff. Just wipe
    it with an oil cloth once in a while ...

    The TRICK is finding those who actually know how to
    properly heat-treat tool steels. Knives are tricky,
    esp near the tip. The common under $100 knives are
    usually either gonna snap or be too soft. Modern
    methods using induction heating can theoretically
    yield superior results, IF .....

    And no, can't afford a 1000-times-folded Samurai-style
    blade forged by a master ... can't be many of those
    around :-)

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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jul 24 22:08:55 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    On 7/24/2023 9:06 PM, 36J.256 wrote:
    On 7/24/23 8:49 AM, Chasseur wrote:
    Le 2023-07-23 à 23:52, 36J.256 a écrit :
    They brag about being made of stainless steel.

    However stainless alloys are NOT the best thing
    for ultra-sharp knives. Too soft.

    Now something like 1% carbon steel - THAT'S what
    you want for the best knives ... if tempered
    properly. O2, or some of the air-hardened alloys.

    Yes, it CAN rust - so you have to maintain it
    properly. Gain goes along with some pain.

    These commercials remind me of the old old
    "Ginsu Knives" ... where they showed them
    cutting aluminum cans and then thin-slicing
    tomatoes and such. Yea, maybe ONCE.

    I actually HAVE a few of the old 'Ginsu'
    knives. They stay in the drawer, haven't
    used them in 30+ years. No way to decently
    sharpen them.

    Camp knives and such - try Randall Knives
    (Orlando, FL). THE Best - and you'll PAY
    for it. Fav of commandos and astronauts
    and anyone else who has to do real stuff
    in the field. No, they don't do folders.

    Quite right. Actually carbon steel knives are making a comeback. Some
    brands offer for a given model, the possibility for buying it in a
    stainless steel version and a carbon steel version. Case in point
    Morakniv. I had a talk recently with a guy in the military at the
    local gun shop as he was getting ready to buy a knife. When I observed
    he was looking over carbon steel knives he said most of his buddies
    were going for carbon steel for their personal knives. Anyone who has
    had to sharpen a stainless steel knife in the field will tell you no
    stainless steel knife comes close to a good carbon steel blade.


      Yep, no comparison, "real steel" rules.

      Actually I wrote Randall-Made and asked if they still
      do "real steel" but never got back a reply. Their SS
      is very good - and you'll pay about $500 for it - but
      still, I'd rather have the good old stuff. Just wipe
      it with an oil cloth once in a while ...

      The TRICK is finding those who actually know how to
      properly heat-treat tool steels. Knives are tricky,
      esp near the tip. The common under $100 knives are
      usually either gonna snap or be too soft. Modern
      methods using induction heating can theoretically
      yield superior results, IF .....

      And no, can't afford a 1000-times-folded Samurai-style
      blade forged by a master ... can't be many of those
      around  :-)

    Maybe where you live . Where I live there are several bladesmiths
    that can make anything you want . But as you say they ain't cheap . I
    like OCS for some projects (froes , spokeshaves and draw knives), 4140
    for others , but 1095 for knives is the most popular here .
    --
    Snag
    Men don't protect women because they're weak .
    We protect them because they're important .

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  • From rbowman@21:1/5 to All on Tue Jul 25 03:57:37 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    On Mon, 24 Jul 2023 22:06:15 -0400, 36J.256 wrote:

    Actually I wrote Randall-Made and asked if they still do "real steel"
    but never got back a reply. Their SS is very good - and you'll pay
    about $500 for it - but still, I'd rather have the good old stuff.
    Just wipe it with an oil cloth once in a while ...

    My Model 5 is 'real steel'. Stainless is an extra cost option on many of
    the models. Some of the models like the carving knife and the dive knife
    are SS.

    You'll pay around $500 for most of the models and see it sometime in 2027
    if you order now.

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  • From 36J.256@21:1/5 to rbowman on Tue Jul 25 01:35:48 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    On 7/24/23 11:57 PM, rbowman wrote:
    On Mon, 24 Jul 2023 22:06:15 -0400, 36J.256 wrote:

    Actually I wrote Randall-Made and asked if they still do "real steel"
    but never got back a reply. Their SS is very good - and you'll pay
    about $500 for it - but still, I'd rather have the good old stuff.
    Just wipe it with an oil cloth once in a while ...

    My Model 5 is 'real steel'. Stainless is an extra cost option on many of
    the models. Some of the models like the carving knife and the dive knife
    are SS.

    You'll pay around $500 for most of the models and see it sometime in 2027
    if you order now.

    Looking over their site today, it REALLY looks like
    they've gone 100% SS. Long back they offered O-1
    blades, an oldie but goodie (if done right), but I
    think that's just no more.

    SS alloys HAVE improved ... but they're STILL not
    the equal of some old carbon-steel alloys for blades.

    (I do not claim to be an expert. Metallurgy gets DEEP
    pretty damned quick. However I do try to keep up a
    little)

    As for 2027 ... mostly right - though the 'camp'
    models are most popular and you can often get them
    in just a year or two. Randall-Made is HAND-MADE,
    not stamped-out and robot-processed. Takes TIME.

    As they say, you get what you pay for. If you
    ever imagine some disaster/Mad-Max possibility
    then you'd want a Randall-Made on your belt.
    1/4" well-tempered stock - it's NOT gonna break
    on you during the Zombie Apocalypse.

    Now the $19.95 stuff on TV ..... :-)

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  • From Frank <"frank@21:1/5 to All on Tue Jul 25 11:49:11 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    On 7/25/2023 1:35 AM, 36J.256 wrote:
    On 7/24/23 11:57 PM, rbowman wrote:
    On Mon, 24 Jul 2023 22:06:15 -0400, 36J.256 wrote:

        Actually I wrote Randall-Made and asked if they still do "real
    steel"
        but never got back a reply. Their SS is very good - and you'll pay >>>     about $500 for it - but still, I'd rather have the good old stuff. >>>     Just wipe it with an oil cloth once in a while ...

    My Model 5 is 'real steel'. Stainless is an extra cost option on many of
    the models. Some of the models like the carving knife and the dive knife
    are SS.

    You'll pay around $500 for most of the models and see it sometime in 2027
    if you order now.

      Looking over their site today, it REALLY looks like
      they've gone 100% SS. Long back they offered O-1
      blades, an oldie but goodie (if done right), but I
      think that's just no more.

      SS alloys HAVE improved ... but they're STILL not
      the equal of some old carbon-steel alloys for blades.

      (I do not claim to be an expert. Metallurgy gets DEEP
      pretty damned quick. However I do try to keep up a
      little)

      As for 2027 ... mostly right - though the 'camp'
      models are most popular and you can often get them
      in just a year or two. Randall-Made is HAND-MADE,
      not stamped-out and robot-processed. Takes TIME.

      As they say, you get what you pay for. If you
      ever imagine some disaster/Mad-Max possibility
      then you'd want a Randall-Made on your belt.
      1/4" well-tempered stock - it's NOT gonna break
      on you during the Zombie Apocalypse.

      Now the $19.95 stuff on TV .....   :-)

    I have two old Buck hunting knives that I liked and could sharpen to
    razor sharpness with a ceramic rod. I see they have used different
    steels over the years and do not know what is best. One know may have
    only half percent carbon and I don't know how much carbon makes carbon
    steel.

    I have other good hunting knives that sharpen well but have a cheap
    Swiss army knife saying stainless and I cannot get a good edge on it.

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  • From rbowman@21:1/5 to All on Tue Jul 25 19:30:03 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    On Tue, 25 Jul 2023 01:35:48 -0400, 36J.256 wrote:

    Looking over their site today, it REALLY looks like they've gone 100%
    SS. Long back they offered O-1 blades, an oldie but goodie (if done
    right), but I think that's just no more.

    https://www.randallknives.com/faqs/

    01 Carbon Tool or Stainless Steel – Should I order my knife with a carbon
    or a stainless steel blade?
    This is one of the most common questions we get. We feel that high carbon
    tool steel holds a better edge by about 10 percent and it’s much easier to hone. Stainless, however, is more resistant to corrosion and staining, so it’s generally the better choice for use in humid or saltwater conditions. Consider how frequently you’ll use and hone your knife–and where you’ll use it–then decide which material is best for you.

    https://www.randallknives.com/extra-features/

    STAINLESS STEEL BLADE
    A special high carbon (1.00%) stainless steel not obtainable in ordinary knives. The same stainless steel specified by NASA for knives used by
    Gemini astronauts. Immune to the effects of saltwater. Designated with an
    S. Standard on Models 6, 10, 16, #16-7 SP#1, 17, 22, 24 and 28. Available
    on Models 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12 (6") (8"), 13 (6"), 14, 15, 18,
    19, 20, 21, 23, 25, 26 and 27.
    3" - 5 1/2" blade and Model 9 -- $65.00
    5 3/4" - 8" blade -- $75.00
    #12-9" #14GR -- $85.00


    https://www.randallknives.com/catalog-models/

    If it doesn't say stainless it ain't.

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  • From 36J.256@21:1/5 to rbowman on Tue Jul 25 20:55:19 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    On 7/25/23 3:30 PM, rbowman wrote:
    On Tue, 25 Jul 2023 01:35:48 -0400, 36J.256 wrote:

    Looking over their site today, it REALLY looks like they've gone
    100%
    SS. Long back they offered O-1 blades, an oldie but goodie (if done
    right), but I think that's just no more.

    https://www.randallknives.com/faqs/

    01 Carbon Tool or Stainless Steel – Should I order my knife with a carbon or a stainless steel blade?
    This is one of the most common questions we get. We feel that high carbon tool steel holds a better edge by about 10 percent and it’s much
    easier to
    hone. Stainless, however, is more resistant to corrosion and staining, so it’s generally the better choice for use in humid or saltwater
    conditions.
    Consider how frequently you’ll use and hone your knife–and where you’ll
    use it–then decide which material is best for you.>
    https://www.randallknives.com/extra-features/

    STAINLESS STEEL BLADE
    A special high carbon (1.00%) stainless steel not obtainable in ordinary knives. The same stainless steel specified by NASA for knives used by
    Gemini astronauts. Immune to the effects of saltwater. Designated with an
    S. Standard on Models 6, 10, 16, #16-7 SP#1, 17, 22, 24 and 28. Available
    on Models 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12 (6") (8"), 13 (6"), 14, 15, 18,
    19, 20, 21, 23, 25, 26 and 27.
    3" - 5 1/2" blade and Model 9 -- $65.00
    5 3/4" - 8" blade -- $75.00
    #12-9" #14GR -- $85.00


    https://www.randallknives.com/catalog-models/

    If it doesn't say stainless it ain't.


    Boy - they buried THAT deep !

    Every picture I looked at was clearly SS.

    But, it's great they haven't given up on O1.

    Alas three+ years IS a long time to wait ...

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  • From rbowman@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jul 26 02:15:15 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    On Tue, 25 Jul 2023 20:55:19 -0400, 36J.256 wrote:

    Boy - they buried THAT deep !

    Every picture I looked at was clearly SS.

    But, it's great they haven't given up on O1.

    Alas three+ years IS a long time to wait ...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KY5MOUO464Q

    I think it was closer to 4 for mine and I blame it all on Guy Clark. I've
    got enough knives to open a cutlery store so it's not like I was chewing
    my way through tree limbs in the meantime.

    It's not like it's an EDC knife. Right now a Cold Steel Recon 1 is in my pocket. It's a little closer to my usual budget and I don't worry about
    wear and tear.

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  • From 36J.256@21:1/5 to rbowman on Wed Jul 26 00:53:46 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    On 7/25/23 10:15 PM, rbowman wrote:
    On Tue, 25 Jul 2023 20:55:19 -0400, 36J.256 wrote:

    Boy - they buried THAT deep !

    Every picture I looked at was clearly SS.

    But, it's great they haven't given up on O1.

    Alas three+ years IS a long time to wait ...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KY5MOUO464Q

    I think it was closer to 4 for mine and I blame it all on Guy Clark. I've
    got enough knives to open a cutlery store so it's not like I was chewing
    my way through tree limbs in the meantime.

    It's not like it's an EDC knife. Right now a Cold Steel Recon 1 is in my pocket. It's a little closer to my usual budget and I don't worry about
    wear and tear.

    WHEN I carry one, not so often anymore, it's usually
    a fairly dismal Buck 112 folder ... though I do have a
    Browning 111c with a more robust blade (Sandvik 12c27
    steel, not bad). I like the "classic design", not 'modern'.
    Hey, sometimes you need to jump electrical circuits - wood
    is an insulator, moderns are usually all-metal.

    The Buck steel is NOT very great. Indeed I wore out a couple
    of 110's (older 425M steel) over the years, sharpening until
    the hard edge-steel was worn back to the softer stuff. The
    skinny tip was always a worry too. These days the 110's
    seem to make people nervous, a bit too big and scary. The
    slightly smaller ones go unnoticed. IMHO the Browning is
    a bit "better".

    Now this does not fit in well with discussions about
    $500+ custom knives. However I haven't spent lots of
    time running around in the woods since my 20s - and
    that was a LONG time ago. "Urban Practical" is now
    my world alas. Old and a bit bent ... maybe I can
    get a "sword-cane" hmm ? :-)

    Now WAY back in the day I took a yearling Mulie
    with one of those big ugly KaBar's I found cheap
    in a surplus store (Mulies are kinda dumb and
    inattentive). Bloody mess for sure. Then I *ate*
    the motherfucker because I was broke, had no ammo,
    and was living under a tarp for a couple of months.
    The north side of the hill had permanent pockets of
    snow/ice ... perfect ... until the bears found out ....

    Hmm ... always thought my youth was boring and
    mild, but actually, come to think of it ......
    Ever been in a small plane kinda sucked-up into a
    t-storm ? Deep diving in sinkholes/caves ? Bandito
    encounters ? Grizzly encounters ? Sharks in bloody
    waters ? Been there, never really intentionally,
    shit happens, but there nevertheless :-)

    Anyway, always had a trusty knife !

    Try :

    https://knifeuser.com/sandvik-12c27-stainless-steel-review-sandvik-12c27-knife-review/

    There's actually a LOT of kinda detailed comparisons of
    various steels there. If there was no more O1 then A2
    is probably superior. On the flip, there's a lot more
    "culture" to O1 ... meaning more people know exactly
    how to make it dance. Air steels are probably better
    for "industrial" processing ... fine machine-regulated
    treatment. You just don't do those over your Bar-B-Que.

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  • From Frank <"frank@21:1/5 to rbowman on Wed Jul 26 10:32:09 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    On 7/25/2023 3:30 PM, rbowman wrote:
    On Tue, 25 Jul 2023 01:35:48 -0400, 36J.256 wrote:

    Looking over their site today, it REALLY looks like they've gone 100%
    SS. Long back they offered O-1 blades, an oldie but goodie (if done
    right), but I think that's just no more.

    https://www.randallknives.com/faqs/

    01 Carbon Tool or Stainless Steel – Should I order my knife with a carbon or a stainless steel blade?
    This is one of the most common questions we get. We feel that high carbon tool steel holds a better edge by about 10 percent and it’s much easier to hone. Stainless, however, is more resistant to corrosion and staining, so it’s generally the better choice for use in humid or saltwater conditions. Consider how frequently you’ll use and hone your knife–and where you’ll use it–then decide which material is best for you.

    https://www.randallknives.com/extra-features/

    STAINLESS STEEL BLADE
    A special high carbon (1.00%) stainless steel not obtainable in ordinary knives. The same stainless steel specified by NASA for knives used by
    Gemini astronauts. Immune to the effects of saltwater. Designated with an
    S. Standard on Models 6, 10, 16, #16-7 SP#1, 17, 22, 24 and 28. Available
    on Models 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12 (6") (8"), 13 (6"), 14, 15, 18,
    19, 20, 21, 23, 25, 26 and 27.
    3" - 5 1/2" blade and Model 9 -- $65.00
    5 3/4" - 8" blade -- $75.00
    #12-9" #14GR -- $85.00


    https://www.randallknives.com/catalog-models/

    If it doesn't say stainless it ain't.

    My hunting knives had infrequent use, were not subject to conditions or corrosion, and after used I would touch them up to make sure they were
    shaving sharp. They would last a life time.

    Kitchen knives are another story. I think they should last a life time
    with moderate touch up but wife believes otherwise and kitchen sharpener
    has nearly done a few in.

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  • From rbowman@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jul 26 15:10:08 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    On Wed, 26 Jul 2023 00:53:46 -0400, 36J.256 wrote:

    The Buck steel is NOT very great. Indeed I wore out a couple of 110's
    (older 425M steel) over the years, sharpening until the hard
    edge-steel was worn back to the softer stuff. The skinny tip was
    always a worry too. These days the 110's seem to make people nervous,
    a bit too big and scary. The slightly smaller ones go unnoticed. IMHO
    the Browning is a bit "better".

    I've got a 110 that's about 40 years old and I bought a 50th anniversary
    model just because. The old one is a little short and has a different
    profile after I snapped the tip off trying to pry a staple out of a fence
    post.

    For scary, try a Spyderco Police:

    https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details/C07/Police-Model-trade-Stainless/
    2

    Spyderco was one of the first knives to incorporate a pocket clip. The
    problem with the Bucks was catching the sheath on stuff and the clip idea sounded good. Spyderco had a number of smaller models but the problem is
    I'm left handed and they weren't ambidextrous. Since the Police has the
    clip screwed on rather than molded I could order a left handed model.

    Now everybody has clips but I still have to be careful. Most can be
    switched for point up or point down carry but not all are ambi. For
    example:

    https://kershaw.kaiusa.com/leek.html

    I thought I could drill and tap it myself but the frame lock steel is
    tough.

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  • From 36J.256@21:1/5 to rbowman on Wed Jul 26 22:19:39 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    On 7/26/23 11:10 AM, rbowman wrote:
    On Wed, 26 Jul 2023 00:53:46 -0400, 36J.256 wrote:

    The Buck steel is NOT very great. Indeed I wore out a couple of 110's
    (older 425M steel) over the years, sharpening until the hard
    edge-steel was worn back to the softer stuff. The skinny tip was
    always a worry too. These days the 110's seem to make people nervous,
    a bit too big and scary. The slightly smaller ones go unnoticed. IMHO
    the Browning is a bit "better".

    I've got a 110 that's about 40 years old and I bought a 50th anniversary model just because. The old one is a little short and has a different
    profile after I snapped the tip off trying to pry a staple out of a fence post.


    Yea, the tips are just TOO thin. However the big brass
    pommel IS good for HAMMERING things :-)

    Generally useful knives. Not "perfect" by any stretch
    but I suppose they're decent for the money.


    For scary, try a Spyderco Police > https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details/C07/Police-Model-trade-Stainless/
    2


    Not the look I like ... and an even THINNER,
    snappable, tip. More of a folding dagger.
    MIGHT be what a COP actually would want however
    as a final line of defense.


    Spyderco was one of the first knives to incorporate a pocket clip. The problem with the Bucks was catching the sheath on stuff and the clip idea sounded good. Spyderco had a number of smaller models but the problem is
    I'm left handed and they weren't ambidextrous. Since the Police has the
    clip screwed on rather than molded I could order a left handed model.

    The 110 sheath DOES project a bit too much below , but
    this was rarely a practical problem. The 112 is about
    3/4" shorter so it's less of an issue.

    Now everybody has clips but I still have to be careful. Most can be
    switched for point up or point down carry but not all are ambi. For
    example:

    https://kershaw.kaiusa.com/leek.html

    I thought I could drill and tap it myself but the frame lock steel is
    tough.

    Looks like a good practical knife - and a bit less "chunky"
    than the abovementioned Bucks.

    As for drilling SS ... that's always a pain in the ass. The
    nickel "smears", almost like a lubricant, around your drill
    bit. Cobalt bits are recommended (but BRITTLE) ; alas even
    they don't go MUCH faster through SS.

    Odd how SS is so hard to cut/drill ... yet vibration will
    soon crack it like an egg.

    Anyway, the Browning I mentioned DOES seem to have better
    steel and the tip isn't so delicate. Alas it does not have
    a pommel good for hammering stuff - though it's pointy
    enough to seriously hurt if you whammed it into someone's
    skull. Hmm ... maybe I could make a 'hammer' end ...

    In any case I'm WAY old enough now to want 'practical'
    over 'macho' - and you can liberate someones guts just
    as well with a 112 as with a 110 should the shit really
    the fan.

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  • From rbowman@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jul 27 04:17:16 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    On Wed, 26 Jul 2023 22:19:39 -0400, 36J.256 wrote:

    Anyway, the Browning I mentioned DOES seem to have better steel and
    the tip isn't so delicate. Alas it does not have a pommel good for
    hammering stuff - though it's pointy enough to seriously hurt if you
    whammed it into someone's skull. Hmm ... maybe I could make a
    'hammer' end ...

    https://www.kabar.com/products/product.jsp?item=BK2

    I've got one of those for light trail clearing. Delicate ain't in its vocabulary. There are bigger ones in the Becker family but this is a good compromise.

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  • From 23k.302@21:1/5 to rbowman on Sat Jul 29 23:13:48 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    On 7/27/23 12:17 AM, rbowman wrote:
    On Wed, 26 Jul 2023 22:19:39 -0400, 36J.256 wrote:

    Anyway, the Browning I mentioned DOES seem to have better steel and
    the tip isn't so delicate. Alas it does not have a pommel good for
    hammering stuff - though it's pointy enough to seriously hurt if you
    whammed it into someone's skull. Hmm ... maybe I could make a
    'hammer' end ...

    https://www.kabar.com/products/product.jsp?item=BK2

    I've got one of those for light trail clearing. Delicate ain't in its vocabulary. There are bigger ones in the Becker family but this is a good compromise.

    Look like good fixed-blades. I'd have to check for
    "field reports" however - do they tend to break,
    lose edge easily - that kind of stuff.

    At my age and condition these days I hire other
    people to "clear trails" (ie mow the damned lawn
    and trim the bushes :-)

    What seems harder to find is an actual super-decent
    FOLDER - something you can wear without the cops
    getting upset. Yea, there's the b110/112 and even
    that Browning, but they're just FAIR folders. The
    steel is not top grade and the mechanisms are a
    bit balky sometimes. As I said, I really like the
    "traditional" design, not those 'skeleton' all-metal
    knives. The Bucks also DO make fair hammers, and
    sometimes you need a hammer as much as a blade :-)

    Which is why I was a bit upset that Randall-Made
    still doesn't make a premium 'survival folder'
    out of tool steel. I think for folders you kinda
    need more automation alas, stamped-out standard
    blades that'll fit right into the rest, and RM
    is much more "hand-crafted". Such folders would
    really be one-off, hand-fitted, and super-$$$

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  • From rbowman@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jul 30 03:52:05 2023
    XPost: talk.politics.misc, alt.survival

    On Sat, 29 Jul 2023 23:13:48 -0400, 23k.302 wrote:

    What seems harder to find is an actual super-decent
    FOLDER - something you can wear without the cops getting upset. Yea,
    there's the b110/112 and even that Browning, but they're just FAIR
    folders. The steel is not top grade and the mechanisms are a bit
    balky sometimes. As I said, I really like the "traditional" design,
    not those 'skeleton' all-metal knives. The Bucks also DO make fair
    hammers, and sometimes you need a hammer as much as a blade

    Other than the Bucks I don't have many 'traditional' designs. Some are
    polymer like the Recon 1 or an old Schrade, most are all metal like the
    Kershaw Cryo 2. Nothing new there. I carried a cat knife all during high
    school and for years after. I still have one that's pretty worn down and a pristine one I picked up for nostalgia.

    Cops get upset about strange things. I got picked up one night and there
    was no comment about the Buck on my belt but they were concerned about the
    box cutter in my back pocket.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercator_K55K

    "The Mercator knife also found some popularity with delinquent youths, and
    by the mid-1960s the "K55K" or "K55" was described as the "weapon of
    choice among the older teenagers of the South Bronx."[

    Nah, not me. Honest. I've only ever passed through South Bronx rapidly.
    You could loosen them up so they would flick open.

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