I have a SeceuroGlide roll-up garage door, electrically operated,
using either a remote control or by pressing pads on the main control
unit on the wall. Just recently, while the remote will still open the
door, it will no longer close it, and the main control unit bleeps.
The door can be closed by holding down the remote for at least five
seconds, and continuing to hold it down until the door is closed.
Alternatively pressing the V arrow on the main control unit for at
least five seconds and until the door closes, also works.

Both little LED lights on the pad on the main control unit are
permanently illuminated red.

My handbook says the batteries need changing. Sounds OK as the door is
six years old and has not had new batteries in all that time. The
handbook says that with the symptoms that I have, I should change the
batteries in the bottom slat transmitter. OK, so I get me some
batteries, and remove the cover of the transmitter, only to find there
are no batteries inside to change. It looks to be wired directly to
the door main control unit via a length of spiral cable, presumably
avoiding the need for batteries. But I didn't know that.

So then I look for batteries within the control unit, but can't see
how to open it. There is a long narrow panel across the bottom which
can be popped out, revealing two retaining screws, but removing those
screws loosens nothing, AFAICS.

So how do I get the front panel of the main control unit off, to
change the batteries if I can find any. If it's not batteries, what
else might it be that can be DIY fixed?

--

Chris

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Sat, 12/7/2024 12:35 PM, Chris Hogg wrote:

I have a SeceuroGlide roll-up garage door, electrically operated,
using either a remote control or by pressing pads on the main control
unit on the wall. Just recently, while the remote will still open the
door, it will no longer close it, and the main control unit bleeps.
The door can be closed by holding down the remote for at least five
seconds, and continuing to hold it down until the door is closed. Alternatively pressing the V arrow on the main control unit for at
least five seconds and until the door closes, also works.

Both little LED lights on the pad on the main control unit are
permanently illuminated red.

My handbook says the batteries need changing. Sounds OK as the door is
six years old and has not had new batteries in all that time. The
handbook says that with the symptoms that I have, I should change the batteries in the bottom slat transmitter. OK, so I get me some
batteries, and remove the cover of the transmitter, only to find there
are no batteries inside to change. It looks to be wired directly to
the door main control unit via a length of spiral cable, presumably
avoiding the need for batteries. But I didn't know that.

So then I look for batteries within the control unit, but can't see
how to open it. There is a long narrow panel across the bottom which
can be popped out, revealing two retaining screws, but removing those
screws loosens nothing, AFAICS.

So how do I get the front panel of the main control unit off, to
change the batteries if I can find any. If it's not batteries, what
else might it be that can be DIY fixed?

Typical reasons are:

1) Excess friction in roller track, motor is "over-current".

2) Contact sensing method has detected an obstacle in the path.
Some doors would have a rubber strip and a microswitch, for contact sensing.
Photoelectric obstacle sensing, check that transmitter and receiver optics are clean.
Optics don't have to be visible light, they could be IR. IR light can be
detected with a SmartPhone camera pointed at the transmitter. A white light,
with no white light visible in the real world, indicates the transmitter is 960nm.

Yes, some doors have batteries riding on the door, as part of the design.
A box on the door could have batteries. But you've located a spiral wound expansion cable, indicating power is routed from the main control unit
which has mains power to run the motor. The spiral cable could be multi-conductor,
it could contain DC for something, and a single status signal "Jammed".

The documentation is relatively dire, and looks like the nuclear launch
codes from 1950. It looks like it was written by a burglar alarm company.

Paul

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 08/12/2024 19:00, Paul wrote:

2) Contact sensing method has detected an obstacle in the path.
Some doors would have a rubber strip and a microswitch, for contact sensing.
Photoelectric obstacle sensing, check that transmitter and receiver optics are clean.
Optics don't have to be visible light, they could be IR. IR light can be
detected with a SmartPhone camera pointed at the transmitter.

Iphones are likely to have an IR blocking filter on the maim camera so
will not show IR. The selfie camera may not have this IR filter. Before
coming to any conclusions about IR transmission using a smartphone
camera check that it actually works using the IR TV remote. Point the
IR LED on the remote at the camera and press a button on the remote. If
the camera is capable of showing IT you will see the LED flashing on the screen.


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Sun, 8 Dec 2024 14:00:25 -0500, Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

Typical reasons are:

1) Excess friction in roller track, motor is "over-current".

2) Contact sensing method has detected an obstacle in the path.
Some doors would have a rubber strip and a microswitch, for contact sensing.
Photoelectric obstacle sensing, check that transmitter and receiver optics are clean.
Optics don't have to be visible light, they could be IR. IR light can be
detected with a SmartPhone camera pointed at the transmitter. A white light,
with no white light visible in the real world, indicates the transmitter is 960nm.

Yes, some doors have batteries riding on the door, as part of the design.
A box on the door could have batteries. But you've located a spiral wound >expansion cable, indicating power is routed from the main control unit
which has mains power to run the motor. The spiral cable could be multi-conductor,
it could contain DC for something, and a single status signal "Jammed".

The documentation is relatively dire, and looks like the nuclear launch
codes from 1950. It looks like it was written by a burglar alarm company.

Paul

Thanks Paul. I think it's time to get an engineer in.

--

Chris

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

Chris Hogg <me@privacy.net> wrote:

I have a SeceuroGlide roll-up garage door, electrically operated,
using either a remote control or by pressing pads on the main control
unit on the wall. Just recently, while the remote will still open the
door, it will no longer close it, and the main control unit bleeps.
The door can be closed by holding down the remote for at least five
seconds, and continuing to hold it down until the door is closed. Alternatively pressing the V arrow on the main control unit for at
least five seconds and until the door closes, also works.

Both little LED lights on the pad on the main control unit are
permanently illuminated red.

My handbook says the batteries need changing. Sounds OK as the door is
six years old and has not had new batteries in all that time. The
handbook says that with the symptoms that I have, I should change the batteries in the bottom slat transmitter. OK, so I get me some
batteries, and remove the cover of the transmitter, only to find there
are no batteries inside to change. It looks to be wired directly to
the door main control unit via a length of spiral cable, presumably
avoiding the need for batteries. But I didn't know that.

So then I look for batteries within the control unit, but can't see
how to open it. There is a long narrow panel across the bottom which
can be popped out, revealing two retaining screws, but removing those
screws loosens nothing, AFAICS.

So how do I get the front panel of the main control unit off, to
change the batteries if I can find any. If it's not batteries, what
else might it be that can be DIY fixed?

The symptoms you describe are exactly the same for run down batteries on my roller door that has a rubber strip with a sensor on the bottom edge of the door with the transmitter mounted on the bottom slat. Mine definitely has batteries for wireless connection to the main unit wired is not an option
as any wires would soon tangle with the mechanism. Have you tried taking
the whole transmitter off the slat as the batteries maybe on the back side?

BTW the batteries may look like normal AA but are not, they are 3.6V
lithium AA cells and not commonly available at supermarkets or even DIY
sheds. I get mine at Amazon the make being EEM3 ER14505 3:6V AA.

Richard

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

Chris Hogg <me@privacy.net> wrote:

I have a SeceuroGlide roll-up garage door, electrically operated,
using either a remote control or by pressing pads on the main control
unit on the wall. Just recently, while the remote will still open the
door, it will no longer close it, and the main control unit bleeps.
The door can be closed by holding down the remote for at least five
seconds, and continuing to hold it down until the door is closed. Alternatively pressing the V arrow on the main control unit for at
least five seconds and until the door closes, also works.

Both little LED lights on the pad on the main control unit are
permanently illuminated red.

My handbook says the batteries need changing. Sounds OK as the door is
six years old and has not had new batteries in all that time. The
handbook says that with the symptoms that I have, I should change the batteries in the bottom slat transmitter. OK, so I get me some
batteries, and remove the cover of the transmitter, only to find there
are no batteries inside to change. It looks to be wired directly to
the door main control unit via a length of spiral cable, presumably
avoiding the need for batteries. But I didn't know that.

So then I look for batteries within the control unit, but can't see
how to open it. There is a long narrow panel across the bottom which
can be popped out, revealing two retaining screws, but removing those
screws loosens nothing, AFAICS.

So how do I get the front panel of the main control unit off, to
change the batteries if I can find any. If it's not batteries, what
else might it be that can be DIY fixed?

PS

Are you sure that the wires you can see are not the connections to the
sensor strip? Link to batteries;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B074QMH2DZ?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder_k1_1_9&amp=&crid=1HCMCQREL8QOY&amp=&sprefix=batteries

Yes, they come at a price.

Richard

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 09/12/2024 07:41, Chris Hogg wrote:

Thanks Paul. I think it's time to get an engineer in.

Probably wise. The motors which open and close those doors generate an
amazing amount of torque as they're often normal motors geared down a
long way, and that can result in a lot of damage.

When I didn't notice that my garage door had frozen shut in a heavy
frost, the motor didn't stall when I pressed the remote control button.
It continued to turn as as something had to give it broke all six
heavy-duty plastic couplings between the motor roller and the door. It
was an expensive repair...

--
Jeff

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

Chris Hogg <me@privacy.net> wrote:

I have a SeceuroGlide roll-up garage door, electrically operated,
using either a remote control or by pressing pads on the main control
unit on the wall. Just recently, while the remote will still open the
door, it will no longer close it, and the main control unit bleeps.
The door can be closed by holding down the remote for at least five
seconds, and continuing to hold it down until the door is closed. Alternatively pressing the V arrow on the main control unit for at
least five seconds and until the door closes, also works.

Both little LED lights on the pad on the main control unit are
permanently illuminated red.

My handbook says the batteries need changing. Sounds OK as the door is
six years old and has not had new batteries in all that time. The
handbook says that with the symptoms that I have, I should change the batteries in the bottom slat transmitter. OK, so I get me some
batteries, and remove the cover of the transmitter, only to find there
are no batteries inside to change. It looks to be wired directly to
the door main control unit via a length of spiral cable, presumably
avoiding the need for batteries. But I didn't know that.

So then I look for batteries within the control unit, but can't see
how to open it. There is a long narrow panel across the bottom which
can be popped out, revealing two retaining screws, but removing those
screws loosens nothing, AFAICS.

So how do I get the front panel of the main control unit off, to
change the batteries if I can find any. If it's not batteries, what
else might it be that can be DIY fixed?

There instruction book is ‘generic’. There are several ‘safety strip’ types
- not all have batteries - ours doesn’t. I THINK those with batteries lack the spiral wire.

The problem may be the motor - it has sensors to detect a ‘stall’ - or a problem with the bottom edge strip.

I’d go along the edge strip looking for damage / distortion - try squashing side ways to see if it changes the lights. Ours seems to be a simple compression system. You can override the edge sensor - from memory you fit
a resistor, at least on ours, which ‘tells’ the box on is there but all is well. Obviously only for testing.

If it is the motor, the whole roller needs to come down.

Ours failed about a year back and I got someone in - I didn’t fancy lifting
a double roller etc.

As for the control box cover, if yours is the grey one with a frosted light cover on the top, there are 4 screws - all in holes- on the front. There is
a ribbon cable from the cover to the main board. From memory, Pozi type.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)