I seem to remember that one used to be able to get (kitchen) worktops
with a 'built-in' upstand at the back. Am I imagining it or were
there such things? ... and more to the point can one get one now?
It would make replacing the (small) worktop in the galley on our boat
so much easier.
I'm thinking of something where the back of the worktop simply curves
up into a few inches high splashback. There's only space for a couple
of inches and making it all of one piece of laminate would make a lot
of sense.
Any ideas anyone?
On 06/01/2025 18:29, Chris Green wrote:
I seem to remember that one used to be able to get (kitchen) worktops
with a 'built-in' upstand at the back. Am I imagining it or were
there such things? ... and more to the point can one get one now?
It would make replacing the (small) worktop in the galley on our boat
so much easier.
I'm thinking of something where the back of the worktop simply curves
up into a few inches high splashback. There's only space for a couple
of inches and making it all of one piece of laminate would make a lot
of sense.
Any ideas anyone?
Not been in that market for a while. Boss insisted, and paid for! a
Corion worktop from J Lewis. Magical installer, no visible joints
including the lap over the window cill.
I seem to remember that one used to be able to get (kitchen) worktops
with a 'built-in' upstand at the back. Am I imagining it or were
there such things? ... and more to the point can one get one now?
It would make replacing the (small) worktop in the galley on our boat
so much easier.
I'm thinking of something where the back of the worktop simply curves
up into a few inches high splashback. There's only space for a couple
of inches and making it all of one piece of laminate would make a lot
of sense.
Any ideas anyone?
On 06/01/2025 18:29, Chris Green wrote:
I seem to remember that one used to be able to get (kitchen) worktops
with a 'built-in' upstand at the back. Am I imagining it or were
there such things? ... and more to the point can one get one now?
It would make replacing the (small) worktop in the galley on our boat
so much easier.
I'm thinking of something where the back of the worktop simply curves
up into a few inches high splashback. There's only space for a couple
of inches and making it all of one piece of laminate would make a lot
of sense.
Any ideas anyone?
I don't recall ever seeing a laminate work surface post formed
seamlessly into an upstand. I saw some where you had a rear edge you
could cut off and reposition but a long time ago. I have never seen
laminate surfaces with a core of anything other than chipboard which is barely suitable for a domestic kitchen and you wouldn't waste your time
with it on a boat.
I don't know if you can do it yourself but laminate, plywood, corian
(and equivalents) colour matched filling adhesive, plastic nosing etc
will all be available somewhere. Otherwise there are people (firms) who prepare surfaces in corian, laminate, stainless steel, wood, glass etc.
and will take your order and your money happily if you are able to
specify what you want by drawing or template.
I don't know if you can do it yourself but laminate, plywood, corian
(and equivalents) colour matched filling adhesive, plastic nosing etc
will all be available somewhere. Otherwise there are people (firms) who prepare surfaces in corian, laminate, stainless steel, wood, glass etc.
and will take your order and your money happily if you are able to
specify what you want by drawing or template.
Laminate is not hard to work on flat surfaces. Glue it onto plywood with contact adhesive and trim with a router.
Corian type materials are cut and routered with tungsten tipped tools,
glued with the matching adhesive. Quite a lot of work in abrasive
smoothing and polishing.
Plenty of small workshops do stainless fabrication for commercial
kitchens and the like. It's often backed with ply.
Wood if you can do woodwork - iroko or mahog or something.
TimW <timw@nomailta.co.uk> wrote:
I don't know if you can do it yourself but laminate, plywood, corian
(and equivalents) colour matched filling adhesive, plastic nosing etc
will all be available somewhere. Otherwise there are people (firms) who prepare surfaces in corian, laminate, stainless steel, wood, glass etc.
and will take your order and your money happily if you are able to
specify what you want by drawing or template.
Laminate is not hard to work on flat surfaces. Glue it onto plywood with contact adhesive and trim with a router.
Corian type materials are cut and routered with tungsten tipped tools, glued with the matching adhesive. Quite a lot of work in abrasive
smoothing and polishing.
Plenty of small workshops do stainless fabrication for commercial
kitchens and the like. It's often backed with ply.
Wood if you can do woodwork - iroko or mahog or something.
ISTM there isn't a whole lot of difference in having a wood profile glued into a wooden top, which is already made of glued strips of wood to get the width. Maybe you'd make the profile oversize and route a channel in the
top, so that the outward joint with the profile is vertical rather than horizontal. Kind of like this, with whatever curvy upstand profile you felt like:
+----+
/ |
/ |
------+---- |
| |
+-----------+
|
------------------+
If you were to keep the joint tight (biscuits/dominos?) you might not notice it to be there.
You could potentially do that with chipboard too, maybe even a contrasting wooden strip if you were feeling brave.
Theo
(interested because having a sloped/curved upstand might be a good way
to avoid it collecting dirt/water)
Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:
+----+
/ |
/ |
------+---- |
| |
+-----------+
|
------------------+
If you were to keep the joint tight (biscuits/dominos?) you might not notice
it to be there.
You could potentially do that with chipboard too, maybe even a contrasting wooden strip if you were feeling brave.
Theo
(interested because having a sloped/curved upstand might be a good way
to avoid it collecting dirt/water)
Yes, re the last bit (... avoid it collecting dirt/water) that's
exactly my reason for asking the question. On a boat it's quite often
that the boat's trim means that water collects at the back of the
worktop and easy to clean plus smooth/impermeable would be a 'good
thing'.
Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:
Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:
+----+
/ |
/ |
------+---- |
| |
+-----------+
|
------------------+
If you were to keep the joint tight (biscuits/dominos?) you might not notice
it to be there.
You could potentially do that with chipboard too, maybe even a contrasting
wooden strip if you were feeling brave.
Theo
(interested because having a sloped/curved upstand might be a good way
to avoid it collecting dirt/water)
Yes, re the last bit (... avoid it collecting dirt/water) that's
exactly my reason for asking the question. On a boat it's quite often
that the boat's trim means that water collects at the back of the
worktop and easy to clean plus smooth/impermeable would be a 'good
thing'.
I suppose the problem with my picture is that water could collect above the vertical joint, get into it and push it apart. I wonder if there's a way to mitigate that. In a kitchen you could angle the worktop slightly so water drains forwards, but on a boat the roll is going to be variable so that
won't work. Impermeable glue will help, but still water can get at it through the sides. wood. Maybe a surface coating that makes a smooth
finish such that the joint is not exposed, one which will stretch to account for movement in the wood?
Being a river/canal boat the issue isn't that extreme. :-) However it
does surprise me that it's not something that there isn't a standard
answer for. Even in an ordinary kitchen one often sees dirt building
up in that corner at the back of the worktop. Silicone mastic or
whatever is the usual solution but surely a one piece surface would be
a much better solution.
I seem to remember that one used to be able to get (kitchen) worktops
with a 'built-in' upstand at the back. Am I imagining it or were
there such things? ... and more to the point can one get one now?
It would make replacing the (small) worktop in the galley on our boat
so much easier.
I'm thinking of something where the back of the worktop simply curves
up into a few inches high splashback. There's only space for a couple
of inches and making it all of one piece of laminate would make a lot
of sense.
Any ideas anyone?
TimW <timw@nomailta.co.uk> wrote:[...] I have never seen
laminate surfaces with a core of anything other than chipboard which isWell the existing chipboard and laminate one has lasted for at least
barely suitable for a domestic kitchen and you wouldn't waste your time
with it on a boat.
20 years (we've owned the boat for about 15 years now and the galley certainly wasn't new when we bought it). [...]
only cost 19k euros to start with! :-)
On 07/01/2025 12:54, Chris Green wrote:
TimW <timw@nomailta.co.uk> wrote:[...] I have never seen
laminate surfaces with a core of anything other than chipboard which isWell the existing chipboard and laminate one has lasted for at least
barely suitable for a domestic kitchen and you wouldn't waste your time
with it on a boat.
20 years (we've owned the boat for about 15 years now and the galley certainly wasn't new when we bought it). [...]
a 2.4 metre straight worktop in a boat that
only cost 19k euros to start with! :-)
Aha! This is not the kind of boat or galley I had imagined. Not a small seagoing yacht with a tiny galley liable to be drenched in brine.
Well the existing chipboard and laminate one has lasted for at least
20 years (we've owned the boat for about 15 years now and the galley certainly wasn't new when we bought it). There's nothing really wrong
with the worktop now but I'm modifying a cupboard at one end and the
shelves behind it so the obvious thing to do is to replace it.
Silicone mastic or
whatever is the usual solution but surely a one piece surface would be
a much better solution.
I'm thinking of something where the back of the worktop simply curves
up into a few inches high splashback. There's only space for a couple
of inches and making it all of one piece of laminate would make a lot
of sense.
Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:
I'm thinking of something where the back of the worktop simply curves
up into a few inches high splashback. There's only space for a couple
of inches and making it all of one piece of laminate would make a lot
of sense.
Just as a follow-up to this thread I've found that the magic name for
a worktop with an upstand as I want is a 'coved upstand'. They tend
to be aimed at medical and other environments where cleanliness is particularly important but you can find them from some (usually
stupidly expensive) kitchen worktop suppliers.
I've sent out a few enquiries and I'm waiting for replies.
Just as a follow-up to this thread I've found that the magic name for
a worktop with an upstand as I want is a 'coved upstand'. They tend
to be aimed at medical and other environments where cleanliness is particularly important but you can find them from some (usually
stupidly expensive) kitchen worktop suppliers.
Chris Green wrote:
Just as a follow-up to this thread I've found that the magic name for
a worktop with an upstand as I want is a 'coved upstand'. They tend
to be aimed at medical and other environments where cleanliness is particularly important but you can find them from some (usually
stupidly expensive) kitchen worktop suppliers.
Does stainless appeal?
<https://alcoengineering.co.uk/stainless-steel-worktops-with-rear-upstand-and-mdf-core.html>
Chris Green wrote:
Just as a follow-up to this thread I've found that the magic name for
a worktop with an upstand as I want is a 'coved upstand'. They tend
to be aimed at medical and other environments where cleanliness is
particularly important but you can find them from some (usually
stupidly expensive) kitchen worktop suppliers.
Does stainless appeal?
<https://alcoengineering.co.uk/stainless-steel-worktops-with-rear-upstand-and-mdf-core.html>
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