Chris Green wrote:
Given that a typical row of cupboards underneath provides supportI can see worktops in most even mm thicknesses between 12 and 42mm, I
right across the worktop from front to back every 500 or 600mm surely
they could be much thinner.
suppose they tend to be thicker because most kitchens will have some
double base units of 1000 or 1200, also thin worktops probably get
classed as "cheapskate" ...
Given that a typical row of cupboards underneath provides supportI can see worktops in most even mm thicknesses between 12 and 42mm, I
right across the worktop from front to back every 500 or 600mm surely
they could be much thinner.
I've been kicking around various ideas for replacing the galley
worktop in our little boat (see other thread) and while I've been
doing that I came to wonder why they're (nearly) always so thick?
Given that a typical row of cupboards underneath provides support
right across the worktop from front to back every 500 or 600mm surely
they could be much thinner.
In particular I have been wondering about using plywood for a worktop,
we made one of plywood when we were first married, 50+ years ago and
it lasted well. When we moved to our second house it still looked
good.
On the boat the worktop will be 2.4 metres long and has 4 x 500mm + 1
x 400mm cupboards under so it will have lots of support. Why would I
need anything thicker than a sheet of 18mm plywood? I can get an 8' x
4' sheet of exterior hardwood ply for £30.72 locally, at that price I
can afford to waste a sheet on experiments!
Only the front edge needs finishing so a strip of half-round would be
easy and could be deeper than 18mm if one wanted.
I've been kicking around various ideas for replacing the galley
worktop in our little boat (see other thread) and while I've been
doing that I came to wonder why they're (nearly) always so thick?
Given that a typical row of cupboards underneath provides support
right across the worktop from front to back every 500 or 600mm surely
they could be much thinner.
In particular I have been wondering about using plywood for a worktop,
we made one of plywood when we were first married, 50+ years ago and
it lasted well. When we moved to our second house it still looked
good.
On the boat the worktop will be 2.4 metres long and has 4 x 500mm + 1
x 400mm cupboards under so it will have lots of support. Why would I
need anything thicker than a sheet of 18mm plywood? I can get an 8' x
4' sheet of exterior hardwood ply for £30.72 locally, at that price I
can afford to waste a sheet on experiments!
Only the front edge needs finishing so a strip of half-round would be
easy and could be deeper than 18mm if one wanted.
I've been kicking around various ideas for replacing the galley
worktop in our little boat (see other thread) and while I've been
doing that I came to wonder why they're (nearly) always so thick?
Given that a typical row of cupboards underneath provides support
right across the worktop from front to back every 500 or 600mm surely
they could be much thinner.
In particular I have been wondering about using plywood for a worktop,
we made one of plywood when we were first married, 50+ years ago and
it lasted well. When we moved to our second house it still looked
good.
On the boat the worktop will be 2.4 metres long and has 4 x 500mm + 1
x 400mm cupboards under so it will have lots of support. Why would I
need anything thicker than a sheet of 18mm plywood? I can get an 8' x
4' sheet of exterior hardwood ply for £30.72 locally, at that price I
can afford to waste a sheet on experiments!
Only the front edge needs finishing so a strip of half-round would be
easy and could be deeper than 18mm if one wanted.
Kitchen work-surfaces can take a great deal of abuse, whereas plywood is going to be soft and not survive well as a cutting surface.
Having said that I have come across tiled (on wood) work-surfaces that
are very rugged and take a lot of abuse from sharp knives.
On 1/10/2025 12:36 AM, Fredxx wrote:
Kitchen work-surfaces can take a great deal of abuse, whereas plywoodKnifework direct[y on a tiled surface, is a good way
is going to be soft and not survive well as a cutting surface.
Having said that I have come across tiled (on wood) work-surfaces that
are very rugged and take a lot of abuse from sharp knives.
to abuse sharp knives
On 09/01/2025 13:31, Chris Green wrote:
I've been kicking around various ideas for replacing the galley
worktop in our little boat (see other thread) and while I've been
doing that I came to wonder why they're (nearly) always so thick?
Given that a typical row of cupboards underneath provides support
right across the worktop from front to back every 500 or 600mm surely
they could be much thinner.
In particular I have been wondering about using plywood for a worktop,
we made one of plywood when we were first married, 50+ years ago and
it lasted well. When we moved to our second house it still looked
good.
On the boat the worktop will be 2.4 metres long and has 4 x 500mm + 1
x 400mm cupboards under so it will have lots of support. Why would I
need anything thicker than a sheet of 18mm plywood? I can get an 8' x
4' sheet of exterior hardwood ply for £30.72 locally, at that price I
can afford to waste a sheet on experiments!
Only the front edge needs finishing so a strip of half-round would be
easy and could be deeper than 18mm if one wanted.
A few years ago I bought some 25mm worktop from Wickes and your post
made me look again.
I can see worktops in the following widths:
12.5mm
13mm
18mm
22mm
26mm
27mm
28mm
38mm
I do accept most are 38mm and probably down to expectation of thickest
is bestest.
Kitchen work-surfaces can take a great deal of abuse, whereas plywood is going to be soft and not survive well as a cutting surface.
Having said that I have come across tiled (on wood) work-surfaces that
are very rugged and take a lot of abuse from sharp knives.
YMMV
Ideally, have colour coded cutting boards for uncooked meat, veg, fish, and cooked food which can be washed.
On 10/01/2025 02:51, S Viemeister wrote:
On 1/10/2025 12:36 AM, Fredxx wrote:
Kitchen work-surfaces can take a great deal of abuse, whereas plywoodKnifework direct[y on a tiled surface, is a good way
is going to be soft and not survive well as a cutting surface.
Having said that I have come across tiled (on wood) work-surfaces that
are very rugged and take a lot of abuse from sharp knives.
to abuse sharp knives
Diamond sharpeners work magic on them
Anyway who doesn't use a cutting board of wood or polythene anyway?
I'd be perfectly happy with tiled worktops in terms of hygiene and the ability to clean. The only problem is dropping hard objects on them,
which is why I have worktops of stippled gabbro, or solid oak,
Fredxx <fredxx@spam.invalid> wrote:
On 09/01/2025 13:31, Chris Green wrote:
I've been kicking around various ideas for replacing the galley
worktop in our little boat (see other thread) and while I've been
doing that I came to wonder why they're (nearly) always so thick?
Given that a typical row of cupboards underneath provides support
right across the worktop from front to back every 500 or 600mm surely
they could be much thinner.
In particular I have been wondering about using plywood for a worktop,
we made one of plywood when we were first married, 50+ years ago and
it lasted well. When we moved to our second house it still looked
good.
On the boat the worktop will be 2.4 metres long and has 4 x 500mm + 1
x 400mm cupboards under so it will have lots of support. Why would I
need anything thicker than a sheet of 18mm plywood? I can get an 8' x
4' sheet of exterior hardwood ply for £30.72 locally, at that price I
can afford to waste a sheet on experiments!
Only the front edge needs finishing so a strip of half-round would be
easy and could be deeper than 18mm if one wanted.
A few years ago I bought some 25mm worktop from Wickes and your post
made me look again.
I can see worktops in the following widths:
12.5mm
13mm
18mm
22mm
26mm
27mm
28mm
38mm
I do accept most are 38mm and probably down to expectation of thickest
is bestest.
Kitchen work-surfaces can take a great deal of abuse, whereas plywood is
going to be soft and not survive well as a cutting surface.
Having said that I have come across tiled (on wood) work-surfaces that
are very rugged and take a lot of abuse from sharp knives.
YMMV
You should never cut on to a worktop. If it is ‘soft’ you will damage it and leave cuts where dirt etc can collect. If it is hard - eg tiled - you will blunt the knife.
Always use a cutting board that can be cleaned and won’t damage the knife edge.
Ideally, have colour coded cutting boards for uncooked meat, veg, fish, and cooked food which can be washed.
I've been kicking around various ideas for replacing the galley worktop in our little boat (see other thread) and while I've been doing that I came to wonder why they're (nearly) always so thick?
Given that a typical row of cupboards underneath provides support right across the worktop from front to back every 500 or 600mm surely they could be much thinner.
In particular I have been wondering about using plywood for a worktop, we made one of plywood when we were first married, 50+ years ago and it lasted well. When we moved to our second house it still looked good.
On the boat the worktop will be 2.4 metres long and has 4 x 500mm + 1 x 400mm cupboards under so it will have lots of support. Why would I need anything thicker than a sheet of 18mm plywood? I can get an 8' x
4' sheet of exterior hardwood ply for £30.72 locally, at that price I can afford to waste a sheet on experiments!
Only the front edge needs finishing so a strip of half-round would be easy and could be deeper than 18mm if one wanted.
I've been kicking around various ideas for replacing the galley worktop
in our little boat (see other thread) and while I've been doing that I
came to wonder why they're (nearly) always so thick?
Given that a typical row of cupboards underneath provides support right across the worktop from front to back every 500 or 600mm surely they
could be much thinner.
In particular I have been wondering about using plywood for a worktop,
we made one of plywood when we were first married, 50+ years ago and it lasted well. When we moved to our second house it still looked good.
On the boat the worktop will be 2.4 metres long and has 4 x 500mm + 1 x
400mm cupboards under so it will have lots of support. Why would I need anything thicker than a sheet of 18mm plywood? I can get an 8' x 4'
sheet of exterior hardwood ply for £30.72 locally, at that price I can afford to waste a sheet on experiments!
Only the front edge needs finishing so a strip of half-round would be
easy and could be deeper than 18mm if one wanted.
On 10/01/2025 02:51, S Viemeister wrote:
On 1/10/2025 12:36 AM, Fredxx wrote:
Kitchen work-surfaces can take a great deal of abuse, whereas plywoodKnifework direct[y on a tiled surface, is a good way
is going to be soft and not survive well as a cutting surface.
Having said that I have come across tiled (on wood) work-surfaces
that are very rugged and take a lot of abuse from sharp knives.
to abuse sharp knives
Diamond sharpeners work magic on them
Anyway who doesn't use a cutting board of wood or polythene anyway?
I'd be perfectly happy with tiled worktops in terms of hygiene and the ability to clean. The only problem is dropping hard objects on them,
which is why I have worktops of stippled gabbro, or solid oak,
I've been kicking around various ideas for replacing the galley
worktop in our little boat (see other thread) and while I've been
doing that I came to wonder why they're (nearly) always so thick?
On 10/01/2025 07:57, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 10/01/2025 02:51, S Viemeister wrote:
On 1/10/2025 12:36 AM, Fredxx wrote:
Kitchen work-surfaces can take a great deal of abuse, whereasKnifework direct[y on a tiled surface, is a good way
plywood is going to be soft and not survive well as a cutting surface. >>>>
Having said that I have come across tiled (on wood) work-surfaces
that are very rugged and take a lot of abuse from sharp knives.
to abuse sharp knives
Diamond sharpeners work magic on them
Anyway who doesn't use a cutting board of wood or polythene anyway?
I'd be perfectly happy with tiled worktops in terms of hygiene and the
ability to clean. The only problem is dropping hard objects on them,
which is why I have worktops of stippled gabbro, or solid oak,
We have plastic cutting boards, but out worktops are granite. No
disasters dropping things in the four years that they have been there.
On 10/01/2025 17:45, SteveW wrote:
On 10/01/2025 07:57, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 10/01/2025 02:51, S Viemeister wrote:
On 1/10/2025 12:36 AM, Fredxx wrote:
Kitchen work-surfaces can take a great deal of abuse, whereasKnifework direct[y on a tiled surface, is a good way
plywood is going to be soft and not survive well as a cutting surface. >>>>>
Having said that I have come across tiled (on wood) work-surfaces
that are very rugged and take a lot of abuse from sharp knives.
to abuse sharp knives
Diamond sharpeners work magic on them
Anyway who doesn't use a cutting board of wood or polythene anyway?
I'd be perfectly happy with tiled worktops in terms of hygiene and
the ability to clean. The only problem is dropping hard objects on
them, which is why I have worktops of stippled gabbro, or solid oak,
We have plastic cutting boards, but out worktops are granite. No
disasters dropping things in the four years that they have been there.
Granite - or gabbro - is in my opinion the best there is bar none.
But stainless steel over 30mm chip is good too. And for places not
likely to get splashed oak board is nice.
Melamine coated chip is OK. As are tiles. But neither are as tough as
the aforementioned options
On 10/01/2025 18:08, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 10/01/2025 17:45, SteveW wrote:
On 10/01/2025 07:57, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 10/01/2025 02:51, S Viemeister wrote:
On 1/10/2025 12:36 AM, Fredxx wrote:
Kitchen work-surfaces can take a great deal of abuse, whereasKnifework direct[y on a tiled surface, is a good way to abuse sharp
plywood is going to be soft and not survive well as a cutting
surface.
Having said that I have come across tiled (on wood) work-surfaces
that are very rugged and take a lot of abuse from sharp knives.
knives
Diamond sharpeners work magic on them
Anyway who doesn't use a cutting board of wood or polythene anyway?
I'd be perfectly happy with tiled worktops in terms of hygiene and
the ability to clean. The only problem is dropping hard objects on
them, which is why I have worktops of stippled gabbro, or solid oak,
We have plastic cutting boards, but out worktops are granite. No
disasters dropping things in the four years that they have been there.
Granite - or gabbro - is in my opinion the best there is bar none.
But stainless steel over 30mm chip is good too. And for places not
likely to get splashed oak board is nice.
Melamine coated chip is OK. As are tiles. But neither are as tough as
the aforementioned options
Prior to the granite, we had normal, 38mm, melamine coated chipboard
worktop. I cannot remember the make, just the pattern (Orange Storm) and
we did not get it from a normal supplier, but much cheaper, straight
from a warehouse (directly opposite where my father was working and they
knew him). That stuff was nigh on indestructible. It withstood knives,
hot pans and oven trays, etc. for 27 years and was only replaced as we
were re-arranging the kitchen and needed different lengths, cut-outs, etc.
Prior to the granite, we had normal, 38mm, melamine coated chipboard
worktop. I cannot remember the make, just the pattern (Orange Storm) and
we did not get it from a normal supplier, but much cheaper, straight
from a warehouse (directly opposite where my father was working and they
knew him). That stuff was nigh on indestructible. It withstood knives,
hot pans and oven
On 11/01/2025 00:41, SteveW wrote:
Prior to the granite, we had normal, 38mm, melamine coated chipboard
worktop. I cannot remember the make, just the pattern (Orange Storm)
and we did not get it from a normal supplier, but much cheaper,
straight from a warehouse (directly opposite where my father was
working and they knew him). That stuff was nigh on indestructible. It
withstood knives, hot pans and oven
Yes. In fact the bog standard 'cheap' worktops were extremely good.
Today's are not melamine, but something far softer.
I've installed more kitchens than I can count and there isn't a lot to
beat coated chip and a stainless steel sink and drainer.
Silicone along the back edge of the worktop to seal it and a couple of
rows of cheap tiles to act as a splash back.
On a limited budget, it doesn't get much better than that.
On 11/01/2025 12:37, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 11/01/2025 00:41, SteveW wrote:
Prior to the granite, we had normal, 38mm, melamine coated chipboard
worktop. I cannot remember the make, just the pattern (Orange Storm)
and we did not get it from a normal supplier, but much cheaper,
straight from a warehouse (directly opposite where my father was
working and they knew him). That stuff was nigh on indestructible. It
withstood knives, hot pans and oven
Yes. In fact the bog standard 'cheap' worktops were extremely good.
Today's are not melamine, but something far softer.
I've installed more kitchens than I can count and there isn't a lot to
beat coated chip and a stainless steel sink and drainer.
Silicone along the back edge of the worktop to seal it and a couple of
rows of cheap tiles to act as a splash back.
On a limited budget, it doesn't get much better than that.
We were not on a very tightly limited budget, although were were not
blowing it either (with me doing all the work except cutting and fitting
the granite), having had a PPI repayment cheque through - hence the
granite worktops. We put in a ceramic sink, as being easy to clean, stain-proof and more scratch resistant than stainless-steel. I'd already tiled around all the kitchen to splashback height, with a taller section above the hob, right up to the cooker hood.
We probably wouldn't have done it at all, but my wife has gradually
become more disabled and some changes to layout, easy to clean worktops
and easy to clean induction hob were necessary. It was also a chance to
add more storage.
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