Chris Green wrote:
Is there any quick and easy way to remove a rust mark from a wet roomweapon of choice from
floor? The floor is some sort of 'one piece' standard wet room floor,
it's not tiled.
scotchbrite pad
steel pan scourer
magic eraser
together with potion of choice from
white vinegar
viakal
whink stain remover (weak HF acid)
Is there any quick and easy way to remove a rust mark from a wet roomweapon of choice from
floor? The floor is some sort of 'one piece' standard wet room floor,
it's not tiled.
Is there any quick and easy way to remove a rust mark from a wet room
floor? The floor is some sort of 'one piece' standard wet room floor,
it's not tiled.
On 13/01/2025 10:27, Andy Burns wrote:
Chris Green wrote:
Is there any quick and easy way to remove a rust mark from a wet roomweapon of choice from
floor? The floor is some sort of 'one piece' standard wet room floor,
it's not tiled.
scotchbrite pad steel pan scourer magic eraser
together with potion of choice from
white vinegar viakal whink stain remover (weak HF acid)
I am amazed that it is possible to buy a product containing hydrofluoric
acid (I think that glass etching kits contain something else), but I
couldn't find out what the strength is. I'd wear nitrile gloves at least while applying it, and keep any liquid well away from glass!
Is there any quick and easy way to remove a rust mark from a wet room
floor? The floor is some sort of 'one piece' standard wet room floor,
it's not tiled.
I am amazed that it is possible to buy a product containing hydrofluoric
acid (I think that glass etching kits contain something else), but I
couldn't find out what the strength is.
I'd wear nitrile gloves at least
while applying it, and keep any liquid well away from glass!
Is there any quick and easy way to remove a rust mark from a wet room
floor? The floor is some sort of 'one piece' standard wet room floor,
it's not tiled.
Is there any quick and easy way to remove a rust mark from a wet room
floor? The floor is some sort of 'one piece' standard wet room floor,
it's not tiled.
Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> writes:
Is there any quick and easy way to remove a rust mark from a wet room
floor? The floor is some sort of 'one piece' standard wet room floor,
it's not tiled.
https://barkeepersfriend.com/ (mainly oxalic acid)
Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:
Is there any quick and easy way to remove a rust mark from a wet room
floor? The floor is some sort of 'one piece' standard wet room floor,
it's not tiled.
I think that's vinyl flooring?
I've been looking into citric acid based chelating agents recently for derusting metal parts - eg a mixture of citric acid and sodium bicarbonate can be made up to be a pH neutral buffer so as to not attack the metal, but still chelate the rust. Somebody did some trials and it worked well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVYZmeReKKY
The idea between chelation is that it grabs the rust and pulls it into solution, exposing the fresh rust behind. Repeat until all the rust is
gone - you end up with clean metal and some black sediment.
So if you have some citric acid you could try it on the rusty stain. Being vinyl the citric won't attack it so doesn't need the buffer.
I was aware of Evaporust and per Ed China bath of
the stuff to de-rust a chassis that some calculated at £20,000 worth of Evaporust.
But I wasn't aware how effective the combination of citric acid and a
buffer was in comparison.
Thanks for the video. I was aware of Evaporust and per Ed China bath of
the stuff to de-rust a chassis that some calculated at £20,000 worth of Evaporust.
But I wasn't aware how effective the combination of citric acid and a
buffer was in comparison.
Fredxx <fredxx@spam.invalid> wrote:
Thanks for the video. I was aware of Evaporust and per Ed China bath of
the stuff to de-rust a chassis that some calculated at £20,000 worth of
Evaporust.
But I wasn't aware how effective the combination of citric acid and a
buffer was in comparison.
Yes, I saw that video and worked out how much it cost. That started me on a little detour about low cost alternative solutions. Various folks suggest citric based derusting, but they don't address the acidity. Some use EDTA, which is still a bit annoying to get hold of.
Fredxx wrote:
I was aware of Evaporust and per Ed China bath of
the stuff to de-rust a chassis that some calculated at £20,000 worth of Evaporust.
But I wasn't aware how effective the combination of citric acid and a buffer was in comparison.
There's a chap* who apparently has has easy access to slip unofficial
samples through a uni's mass spectrometers, he does youtube shorts
analysing everything from fast food and nicotine gum, to chemicals such
as Evaporust, he says the chelating ingredient is triethanolamine
phosphate ...
On 13/01/2025 18:11, Theo wrote:
Fredxx <fredxx@spam.invalid> wrote:
Thanks for the video. I was aware of Evaporust and per Ed China bath of
the stuff to de-rust a chassis that some calculated at £20,000 worth of >> Evaporust.
But I wasn't aware how effective the combination of citric acid and a
buffer was in comparison.
Yes, I saw that video and worked out how much it cost. That started me on a
little detour about low cost alternative solutions. Various folks suggest citric based derusting, but they don't address the acidity. Some use EDTA, which is still a bit annoying to get hold of.
It's available from Amazon, and isn't too expensive. e.g. <https://www.amazon.co.uk/MYOC-Disodium-Cosmetic-Conditioner-Facewashes/dp/B0B9S9YK5J?>
In message <053f5l-n6hu.ln1@q957.zbmc.eu>, Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> writes
Is there any quick and easy way to remove a rust mark from a wet room
floor? The floor is some sort of 'one piece' standard wet room floor,
it's not tiled.
I did this recently - lavvy brush holder was the culprit. . Light scour
with steel wool and bleach.
I've also been looking at rust proofing solutions - the current heavily >advertised product is 'Lanoguard', which is lanolin in a solvent.
Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:
Is there any quick and easy way to remove a rust mark from a wet room
floor? The floor is some sort of 'one piece' standard wet room floor,
it's not tiled.
I think that's vinyl flooring?
I've been looking into citric acid based chelating agents recently for derusting metal parts - eg a mixture of citric acid and sodium bicarbonate can be made up to be a pH neutral buffer so as to not attack the metal, but still chelate the rust. Somebody did some trials and it worked well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVYZmeReKKY
The idea between chelation is that it grabs the rust and pulls it into solution, exposing the fresh rust behind. Repeat until all the rust is
gone - you end up with clean metal and some black sediment.
So if you have some citric acid you could try it on the rusty stain. Being vinyl the citric won't attack it so doesn't need the buffer.
On 13 Jan 2025 18:11:50 +0000 (GMT), Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:
I've also been looking at rust proofing solutions - the current heavily >advertised product is 'Lanoguard', which is lanolin in a solvent.
I use "Cosmoloid H80" -- a "microcrystalline wax", whatever that may be.
This can be applied to hot metal, or dissolved in white spirit/Stoddard solvent/thinner/whatever.
I use "Shellsol T" which is an alkane solvent free of aromatics (doesn't smell,
plus less toxic), at 20 grams Cosmoloid to one liter -- a very little Cosmoloid
goes a long way. Treated metal is not greasy or waxy to the touch.
Thomas Prufer <prufer.public@mnet-online.de.invalid> wrote:
On 13 Jan 2025 18:11:50 +0000 (GMT), Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk>
wrote:
I've also been looking at rust proofing solutions - the current heavily
advertised product is 'Lanoguard', which is lanolin in a solvent.
I use "Cosmoloid H80" -- a "microcrystalline wax", whatever that may be.
This can be applied to hot metal, or dissolved in white spirit/Stoddard
solvent/thinner/whatever.
I use "Shellsol T" which is an alkane solvent free of aromatics (doesn't smell,
plus less toxic), at 20 grams Cosmoloid to one liter -- a very little Cosmoloid
goes a long way. Treated metal is not greasy or waxy to the touch.
Yes, I was wondering if there was a generic purer alkane solvent like >Shellsol. Trouble is that it's only sold in art supply places at about £18 >a litre, which makes it quite pricey. Bulk price in 1000 litres is about £1.40 a
litre so that's quite some markup.
There's also 'turpentine substitute' which is fairly cheap, but that appears to be
just a less pure version of white spirit.
Theo
On 14 Jan 2025 11:03:43 +0000 (GMT), Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:
Thomas Prufer <prufer.public@mnet-online.de.invalid> wrote:
On 13 Jan 2025 18:11:50 +0000 (GMT), Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk>
wrote:
I've also been looking at rust proofing solutions - the current heavily >> >advertised product is 'Lanoguard', which is lanolin in a solvent.
I use "Cosmoloid H80" -- a "microcrystalline wax", whatever that may be. >>
This can be applied to hot metal, or dissolved in white spirit/Stoddard
solvent/thinner/whatever.
I use "Shellsol T" which is an alkane solvent free of aromatics (doesn't smell,
plus less toxic), at 20 grams Cosmoloid to one liter -- a very little Cosmoloid
goes a long way. Treated metal is not greasy or waxy to the touch.
Yes, I was wondering if there was a generic purer alkane solvent like >Shellsol. Trouble is that it's only sold in art supply places at about £18 >a litre, which makes it quite pricey. Bulk price in 1000 litres is about £1.40 a
litre so that's quite some markup.
There's also 'turpentine substitute' which is fairly cheap, but that appears to be
just a less pure version of white spirit.
Theo
Charcoal lighter fluid is low on odour, though a bit oilier (higher boiling point?) that thinner, and will sometimes substitute for thinners. And it is easily available, at least in summer.
On 13/01/2025 15:54, brian wrote:
In message <053f5l-n6hu.ln1@q957.zbmc.eu>, Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> writes >>> Is there any quick and easy way to remove a rust mark from a wet room
floor? The floor is some sort of 'one piece' standard wet room floor,I did this recently - lavvy brush holder was the culprit. . Light
it's not tiled.
scour with steel wool and bleach.
Bleach for rust IS NOT recommended!
Just Google "Bleach and Rust" to bring up many hits for the reason not
to use it.
Yes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6-uxmwn43Y
That's also what they say on the EU MSDS, where they can't hide behind 'proprietary mixture of this and that' as they do in the US: https://docs.rs-online.com/f5f6/A700000009023164.pdf
1-5% of 2,2′,2′′-Nitrilotriethanol == triethanolamine
Also included are:
<5% salt of an aliphatic acid
<3% aliphatic carboxylic acid
which makes it look like an acid-salt buffer solution. I think the acid
may be citric, but I couldn't tell for sure. I think the triethanolamine
may be the carrier for the chelating agents, rather than the active ingredient itself.
| Sysop: | Keyop |
|---|---|
| Location: | Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK |
| Users: | 498 |
| Nodes: | 16 (2 / 14) |
| Uptime: | 32:25:40 |
| Calls: | 9,798 |
| Calls today: | 17 |
| Files: | 13,751 |
| Messages: | 6,189,000 |