I've just inserted a Shock Arrester in the system. See

https://www.tfc-group.co.uk/product/shock-arrestor/

which required a Tee such as

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-brass-compression-adapting-tee-15mm-x-15mm-x-1-2-/94799


It cites:

"One commonly used thread sealant that meets these requirements is
PTFE tape, which is a thin, white tape made from
polytetrafluoroethylene. PTFE tape is safe for use with drinking water
and is compatible with brass and stainless steel
fittings. It is also easy to apply and can help to create a tight,
leak-free seal.

When using PTFE tape or any other thread sealant, it is important to
follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply
the sealant properly. This can help to ensure a secure and reliable
connection that adheres to WRAS regulations and
provides safe and reliable operation of the Mini Expansion Vessel
Shock Arrestor - 1/2" BSP."

And the joint drips, only slowly, but nonetheless, drips.

Before I take it all to bits again is there a right and wrong way to
use PTFE tape? I've followed a YouTube video which says to twist the
tape so it fits like a thin string between the threads and then wrap a
couple of layers over the top.


--
AnthonyL

Why ever wait to finish a job before starting the next?

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

AnthonyL wrote:

I've just inserted a Shock Arrester in the system. See

https://www.tfc-group.co.uk/product/shock-arrestor/

which required a Tee such as

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-brass-compression-adapting-tee-15mm-x-15mm-x-1-2-/94799

It cites:

"One commonly used thread sealant that meets these requirements is
PTFE tape, which is a thin, white tape made from
polytetrafluoroethylene. PTFE tape is safe for use with drinking water
and is compatible with brass and stainless steel
fittings. It is also easy to apply and can help to create a tight,
leak-free seal.

When using PTFE tape or any other thread sealant, it is important to
follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply
the sealant properly. This can help to ensure a secure and reliable connection that adheres to WRAS regulations and
provides safe and reliable operation of the Mini Expansion Vessel
Shock Arrestor - 1/2" BSP."

And the joint drips, only slowly, but nonetheless, drips.

Before I take it all to bits again is there a right and wrong way to
use PTFE tape? I've followed a YouTube video which says to twist the
tape so it fits like a thin string between the threads and then wrap a
couple of layers over the top.

Only use it on tapered fittings. On everything else (parallel and
compression) use Boss White (or similar).

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

AnthonyL wrote:

the joint drips, only slowly, but nonetheless, drips.
Before I take it all to bits again is there a right and wrong way to
use PTFE tape?

Did you wind the PTFE so it bites "into" the thread? If not, then when
you tighten it gets pulled-out out rather than driven in.

I've followed a YouTube video which says to twist the
tape so it fits like a thin string between the threads and then wrap a
couple of layers over the top.

I just do a few wraps, no forming into a string, you'd have to really
overdo the number of wraps to not allow it to find somewhere to squish
to ...

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

No mail wrote:

AnthonyL wrote:

I've just inserted a Shock Arrester in the system.  See

https://www.tfc-group.co.uk/product/shock-arrestor/

which required a Tee such as

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-brass-compression-adapting-tee-15mm-x-15mm-x-1-2-/94799



It cites:

"One commonly used thread sealant that meets these requirements is
PTFE tape, which is a thin, white tape made from
polytetrafluoroethylene. PTFE tape is safe for use with drinking water
and is compatible with brass and stainless steel
fittings. It is also easy to apply and can help to create a tight,
leak-free seal.

When using PTFE tape or any other thread sealant, it is important to
follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply
the sealant properly. This can help to ensure a secure and reliable
connection that adheres to WRAS regulations and
provides safe and reliable operation of the Mini Expansion Vessel
Shock Arrestor - 1/2" BSP."

And the joint drips, only slowly, but nonetheless, drips.

Before I take it all to bits again is there a right and wrong way to
use PTFE tape?  I've followed a YouTube video which says to twist the
tape so it fits like a thin string between the threads and then wrap a
couple of layers over the top.

Only use it on tapered fittings. On everything else (parallel and compression) use Boss White (or similar).

Forgot to add: you can also use hemp on awkward joints. IMHO hemp works
better, and allows adjustment better, than PTFE.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 16/01/2025 13:26, AnthonyL wrote:

I've just inserted a Shock Arrester in the system. See

https://www.tfc-group.co.uk/product/shock-arrestor/

which required a Tee such as

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-brass-compression-adapting-tee-15mm-x-15mm-x-1-2-/94799

It cites:

"One commonly used thread sealant that meets these requirements is
PTFE tape, which is a thin, white tape made from
polytetrafluoroethylene. PTFE tape is safe for use with drinking water
and is compatible with brass and stainless steel
fittings. It is also easy to apply and can help to create a tight,
leak-free seal.

When using PTFE tape or any other thread sealant, it is important to
follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply
the sealant properly. This can help to ensure a secure and reliable connection that adheres to WRAS regulations and
provides safe and reliable operation of the Mini Expansion Vessel
Shock Arrestor - 1/2" BSP."

And the joint drips, only slowly, but nonetheless, drips.

Before I take it all to bits again is there a right and wrong way to
use PTFE tape? I've followed a YouTube video which says to twist the
tape so it fits like a thin string between the threads and then wrap a
couple of layers over the top.

You have to also wind it in the correct direction.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 16/01/2025 13:26, AnthonyL wrote:

Before I take it all to bits again is there a right and wrong way to
use PTFE tape? I've followed a YouTube video which says to twist the
tape so it fits like a thin string between the threads and then wrap a
couple of layers over the top.

It's got to be wound in the correct direction

The correct way and what you are trying to screw in will start to
tighten quickly

The wrong way and the ptfe tape will travel outwards and off from the
thread.

Note in this video which way the tape is wound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65i2vGWi3AE

You don't necessarily need to make a string - the flat tape will do

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

No mail wrote:

you can also use hemp on awkward joints. IMHO hemp works better, and
allows adjustment better, than PTFE.

LSX is also good for solving minor weeping leaks ...

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 16/01/2025 13:26, AnthonyL wrote:

I've just inserted a Shock Arrester in the system. See

https://www.tfc-group.co.uk/product/shock-arrestor/

which required a Tee such as

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-brass-compression-adapting-tee-15mm-x-15mm-x-1-2-/94799

It cites:

"One commonly used thread sealant that meets these requirements is
PTFE tape, which is a thin, white tape made from
polytetrafluoroethylene. PTFE tape is safe for use with drinking water
and is compatible with brass and stainless steel
fittings. It is also easy to apply and can help to create a tight,
leak-free seal.

When using PTFE tape or any other thread sealant, it is important to
follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply
the sealant properly. This can help to ensure a secure and reliable connection that adheres to WRAS regulations and
provides safe and reliable operation of the Mini Expansion Vessel
Shock Arrestor - 1/2" BSP."

And the joint drips, only slowly, but nonetheless, drips.

Before I take it all to bits again is there a right and wrong way to
use PTFE tape? I've followed a YouTube video which says to twist the
tape so it fits like a thin string between the threads and then wrap a
couple of layers over the top.

For water I use the thicker PTFE tape initially designed for gas taper fittings. Less faffing about and is more reliable than many turns of
'thin' PTFE tape.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 16/01/2025 13:26, AnthonyL wrote:

I've just inserted a Shock Arrester in the system. See

https://www.tfc-group.co.uk/product/shock-arrestor/

which required a Tee such as

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-brass-compression-adapting-tee-15mm-x-15mm-x-1-2-/94799

Assuming that it has not got a fibre or rubber washer that can seat on
the top edge of the BSP female fitting you have, then you will need to
use PTFE

It cites:

"One commonly used thread sealant that meets these requirements is
PTFE tape, which is a thin, white tape made from
polytetrafluoroethylene. PTFE tape is safe for use with drinking water
and is compatible with brass and stainless steel
fittings. It is also easy to apply and can help to create a tight,
leak-free seal.

When using PTFE tape or any other thread sealant, it is important to
follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply
the sealant properly. This can help to ensure a secure and reliable connection that adheres to WRAS regulations and
provides safe and reliable operation of the Mini Expansion Vessel
Shock Arrestor - 1/2" BSP."

And the joint drips, only slowly, but nonetheless, drips.

Before I take it all to bits again is there a right and wrong way to
use PTFE tape? I've followed a YouTube video which says to twist the
tape so it fits like a thin string between the threads and then wrap a
couple of layers over the top.

I can't tell from the pictures if either of the threads are taper
fittings. Ideally for a good seal on threads they should both be taper fittings. If both are parallel, then you can still get a good seal with
PTFE - you just need to use more, and in the right place.

My approach :

Hold the male fitting in your left hand with the thread pointing to the
right. Start winding PTFE tape on the thread at the open end, and in a clockwise direction (i.e. up in front of the fitting, over the top away
from you, down the back, and back under) You want a couple of turns to
get started, then you wind "up" the thread towards your left hand. As
you get higher you want to be building a thickness of tape. It may need
to be 10 turns at the thick end. Basically you are winding a tapered
spiral of tape that gets thicker the further up the thread you go. The
idea being when screwed into the female socket, the first couple of
turns go in easy, but then it progressively tightens as it goes deeper.
It should go fairly tight, and not bottom out.

If you want to build thickness more quickly or steeply, that is when you
can add a twist to the tape to get double layers further up the thread. (Personally I don't twist, but will rotate the roll of tape such that I
am winding it on "edgeways" - the tape then scrunches up into a narrower
width of tape).

(the direction matters - you want the tape winding direction to be such
that you are winding it on tighter as you screw it into the socket,
rather than unwinding it).

For a shock arrester it is not too critical how much tape is used and
where since you don't care when it finally "goes tight". If it were a
bib style tap on a wall plate, then that can take more trial and error!



--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 16/01/2025 19:28, John Rumm wrote:

For a shock arrester it is not too critical how much tape is used and
where since you don't care when it finally "goes tight". If it were a
bib style tap on a wall plate, then that can take more trial and error!

It is the imprecision of which way up an outside top will end up once it
has made a watertight seal which makes me always use PFTE.

We have an outside tap which screws into a BSP plate on wall. Like the
idiots that we are, we (well, I) forgot to get the plumber to install an
inline stop valve within the house, so I have to remove the tap every
winter to stop it cracking when it freezes - for the winter months I
replace it with a blanking cap.

So every spring, I have the "delightful" job of trying to refit the tap
so it is the right way up while making a watertight seal. I can either
have the top upside down or I can have a slow dribble from the joint.

So I have experimented with PTFE tape. The technique that I have found
works best is to twist the tape into a "rope", lay that in the thread of
the tap, wrap a layer of tape over the whole lot and then screw it in.
If I have to do this process as few as three times before I get the tap
upright and a watertight seal, then I feel satisfied. Some years it
takes me as many as ten times, which quickly uses up a roll of PFTE.

The annoying thing is that once the builders had installed the outside
tap, they fitted kitchen cabinets which mean that there is no access to
the pipes within the house to retro-fit an inline stop valve.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 16/01/2025 13:26, AnthonyL wrote:

"One commonly used thread sealant that meets these requirements is
PTFE tape, which is a thin, white tape made from
polytetrafluoroethylene. PTFE tape is safe for use with drinking water

Forever Chemicals rule OK ...

"Safe"

Apparently one of many things that kill us after we are dead...

--
Plastic Man

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

nospam@please.invalid (AnthonyL) wrote in news:678905d3.20810140@news.eternal-september.org:

It cites:

"One commonly used thread sealant that meets these requirements is
PTFE tape, which is a thin, white tape made from
polytetrafluoroethylene. PTFE tape is safe for use with drinking water
and is compatible with brass and stainless steel
fittings. It is also easy to apply and can help to create a tight,
leak-free seal.

Just don't bother, smear a decent thread sealant around the male threads
before assembly and you will never need a roll of ptfe tape again. Never
had a leak from such as these:

https://www.toolstation.com/tru-blu-pipe-thread-sealant/p40236

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-pipe-thread-seal-50g/4373j

Far easier to use than such as Boss white etc.

That said I would use a sealing washer instead on a bottoming out parallel threaded fitting.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Thu, 16 Jan 2025 19:41:40 +0000, NY <me@privacy.net> wrote:

On 16/01/2025 19:28, John Rumm wrote:

For a shock arrester it is not too critical how much tape is used and
where since you don't care when it finally "goes tight". If it were a
bib style tap on a wall plate, then that can take more trial and error!

It is the imprecision of which way up an outside top will end up once it
has made a watertight seal which makes me always use PFTE.

We have an outside tap which screws into a BSP plate on wall. Like the
idiots that we are, we (well, I) forgot to get the plumber to install an >inline stop valve within the house, so I have to remove the tap every
winter to stop it cracking when it freezes - for the winter months I
replace it with a blanking cap.

So every spring, I have the "delightful" job of trying to refit the tap

I might live to regret saying this, but my house has an outside tap
that was in place when I moved in over 25 years ago and was probaly
installed when the house was built in 1988. There is no isolating
valve and I have had no issues with the tap in cold weather, despite
it being on the colder side of the house.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

Peter Johnson <peter@parksidewood.nospam> wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jan 2025 19:41:40 +0000, NY <me@privacy.net> wrote:

On 16/01/2025 19:28, John Rumm wrote:

For a shock arrester it is not too critical how much tape is used and
where since you don't care when it finally "goes tight". If it were a
bib style tap on a wall plate, then that can take more trial and error!

It is the imprecision of which way up an outside top will end up once it >has made a watertight seal which makes me always use PFTE.

We have an outside tap which screws into a BSP plate on wall. Like the >idiots that we are, we (well, I) forgot to get the plumber to install an >inline stop valve within the house, so I have to remove the tap every >winter to stop it cracking when it freezes - for the winter months I >replace it with a blanking cap.

So every spring, I have the "delightful" job of trying to refit the tap

I might live to regret saying this, but my house has an outside tap
that was in place when I moved in over 25 years ago and was probaly
installed when the house was built in 1988. There is no isolating
valve and I have had no issues with the tap in cold weather, despite
it being on the colder side of the house.

Ditto, I have quite a few outside taps (at least 5 scattered around 9
acres) and they're all just off-the-shelf brass outdoor taps and they
have all survived for many years without issues.

If I remember right it's only a couple of plastic things have failed
due (probably) to frost. For example in the recent cold spell an MDPE
wall plate split, not so badly as to waste a lot of water but needed
replacing.

The thing that does occasionally happen is fittings being pushed off
the end of a pipe, I had two do this in the recent cold snap.

--
Chris Green
·

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

Peter Johnson wrote:

I might live to regret saying this, but my house has an outside tap
that was in place when I moved in over 25 years ago and was probaly
installed when the house was built in 1988. There is no isolating
valve and I have had no issues with the tap in cold weather, despite
it being on the colder side of the house.

Similar here ~35 years, the pipe to the tap goes direct through a cavity
wall into the back of the tap ... fingers crossed eh?

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

Didn't I read somewhere recently that PTFE tape is not a sealant but
lubricates the thread to allow a smoother tighter joint ?

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Fri, 17 Jan 2025 15:14:01 +0000
Peter Johnson <peter@parksidewood.nospam> wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jan 2025 19:41:40 +0000, NY <me@privacy.net> wrote:

On 16/01/2025 19:28, John Rumm wrote:

For a shock arrester it is not too critical how much tape is used
and where since you don't care when it finally "goes tight". If it
were a bib style tap on a wall plate, then that can take more
trial and error!

It is the imprecision of which way up an outside top will end up
once it has made a watertight seal which makes me always use PFTE.

We have an outside tap which screws into a BSP plate on wall. Like
the idiots that we are, we (well, I) forgot to get the plumber to
install an inline stop valve within the house, so I have to remove
the tap every winter to stop it cracking when it freezes - for the
winter months I replace it with a blanking cap.

So every spring, I have the "delightful" job of trying to refit the
tap

I might live to regret saying this, but my house has an outside tap
that was in place when I moved in over 25 years ago and was probaly
installed when the house was built in 1988. There is no isolating
valve and I have had no issues with the tap in cold weather, despite
it being on the colder side of the house.

I'll see your 25 and raise to 39. There is an isolating tap but it's
difficult to get at so we don't use it.

--
Joe

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 17/01/2025 17:01, Jethro_uk wrote:

Didn't I read somewhere recently that PTFE tape is not a sealant but lubricates the thread to allow a smoother tighter joint ?

It depend how you use it.

On a compression joint winding ptfe tape around the thread doesn't seal anything as the seal is the copper or brass olive on the pipe. Some ptfe
paste can be used on the olive to lubricate it to make it easier for the positioning of the olive on the pipe prior to it being compressed on the
pipe.

The olive also mates to two tapered surfaces, one inside the tightening
nut and one inside the rest of the fitting. If there is a slight leak on
a compression joint that cannot be fixed by nipping up the nut a bit it
may be fixed by winding a few turns of ptfe tape around the olive. This
makes the olive slightly bigger and able to mate better with the two
tapered surfaces in the nut and fitting. It can be a very effective
bodge or perhaps a necessary fix for "chinese sourced" cheap plumbing
fixings. In my experience not all olives are of the same quality and I
have better quality spares that I would substitute if I think the
supplied olive is suspect.

Putting ptfe tape or paste on the threads of a compression fitting can lubricate it and make it easier to do the nut up. This may have the disadvantage on giving you the impression that the compression fitting
is being fitted correctly. You will not get a good connection if the
pipe is slightly skewed to the fitting. If it is the tightening nut will
soon get very difficult to turn but maybe not realised if the thread is lubricated. The tightening nut is easily started and turned if the pipe
is straight with respect to the fitting.

In this case it is not a compression fitting. It is a male screw thread
into a female screw thread (either straight or tapered). In these cases
ptfe tape, a hemp string or jointing compound are all valid methods of
sealing the joint.

Other plumbing fixings may use a rubber or fibre washer for sealing.


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 17/01/2025 15:14, Peter Johnson wrote:

I might live to regret saying this, but my house has an outside tap
that was in place when I moved in over 25 years ago and was probably installed when the house was built in 1988. There is no isolating
valve and I have had no issues with the tap in cold weather, despite
it being on the colder side of the house.

Sadly the original tap, a 1/4-turn
cylindrical-hole-through-centre-of-a-sphere type, that the builders
fitted when they moved the outside tap to this location, cracked the
winter before last. It's on a patio in an L between two parts of the
house, on a south-eastern face of the house so it gets all the sun it
can in the winter.

Ironically that tap makes a perfectly watertight seal with the threaded
plate on the wall, with the tap upright (apart from leaking from the
crack in the body of the tap, obviously) whereas the like-for-like
replacement that I bought only seals without PTFE when it is facing upside-down, and so needs the PTFE tape to seal when I back it off by
1/2 turn so it's the right way up.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 17/01/2025 17:42, Joe wrote:

I might live to regret saying this, but my house has an outside tap
that was in place when I moved in over 25 years ago and was probaly
installed when the house was built in 1988. There is no isolating
valve and I have had no issues with the tap in cold weather, despite
it being on the colder side of the house.

I'll see your 25 and raise to 39. There is an isolating tap but it's difficult to get at so we don't use it.

I don't think it was exceptionally cold the winter when the tap cracked
due to ice, and it's on the sunny side of the house so it will benefit
most by any puny amount of sun heating that is going.

And yet ours failed within three years of being fitted.

Are some types of tap more prone than others to fail when the water
inside them freezes? Ours was like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ibergrif-M22201-M22201-Outdoor-Connection-Outlets/dp/B08CHKBTYF?th=1
although of unknown manufacturer.

IIRC the body split where the side part of the housing where the handle
shaft runs, attaches to the main through pipe that contains the ball
valve which has a cylindrical hole through the middle. It was a hairline
crack that went about 3/4 way around.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 18 Jan 2025 at 00:42:10 GMT, NY wrote:

On 17/01/2025 17:42, Joe wrote:

I might live to regret saying this, but my house has an outside tap
that was in place when I moved in over 25 years ago and was probaly
installed when the house was built in 1988. There is no isolating
valve and I have had no issues with the tap in cold weather, despite
it being on the colder side of the house.

I'll see your 25 and raise to 39. There is an isolating tap but it's
difficult to get at so we don't use it.

I don't think it was exceptionally cold the winter when the tap cracked
due to ice, and it's on the sunny side of the house so it will benefit
most by any puny amount of sun heating that is going.

And yet ours failed within three years of being fitted.

I suspect being attached to a heated building wall has something to do with
it, as well as wind/sun.

--
Cheers, Rob, Sheffield UK

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

Peter Johnson <peter@parksidewood.nospam> wrote:

I might live to regret saying this, but my house has an outside tap
that was in place when I moved in over 25 years ago and was probaly
installed when the house was built in 1988. There is no isolating
valve and I have had no issues with the tap in cold weather, despite
it being on the colder side of the house.

I always cut a cardboard box to drop over the tap, so although it might
be cold outside at least it isn't exposed to the sky (which if clear
can be colder). Hasn't failed yet, but then it hasnt been at negative
temps here for very long at a time either.

#Paul

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Fri, 17 Jan 2025 15:14:01 +0000, Peter Johnson
<peter@parksidewood.nospam> wrote:

On Thu, 16 Jan 2025 19:41:40 +0000, NY <me@privacy.net> wrote:

On 16/01/2025 19:28, John Rumm wrote:

For a shock arrester it is not too critical how much tape is used and
where since you don't care when it finally "goes tight". If it were a
bib style tap on a wall plate, then that can take more trial and error!

It is the imprecision of which way up an outside top will end up once it >>has made a watertight seal which makes me always use PFTE.

We have an outside tap which screws into a BSP plate on wall. Like the >>idiots that we are, we (well, I) forgot to get the plumber to install an >>inline stop valve within the house, so I have to remove the tap every >>winter to stop it cracking when it freezes - for the winter months I >>replace it with a blanking cap.

So every spring, I have the "delightful" job of trying to refit the tap

I might live to regret saying this, but my house has an outside tap
that was in place when I moved in over 25 years ago and was probaly
installed when the house was built in 1988. There is no isolating
valve and I have had no issues with the tap in cold weather, despite
it being on the colder side of the house.

That's one of the next jobs on the list once I'm confident I've sorted
out the water hammer device installation.

Back outside tap is quite old (~1980s) and very stiff so I've bought a replacement. But not had any freezing issues despite it being in a
fairly cold spot - cross-fingers.

Lots of PTFE tape at hand for that and I'll take care to wind it on
the correct way, something I didn't pay much attention to with the
Shock Arrester which my memory says I did it from the inside to the
outside.


--
AnthonyL

Why ever wait to finish a job before starting the next?

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On Thu, 16 Jan 2025 19:28:47 +0000, John Rumm
<see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

On 16/01/2025 13:26, AnthonyL wrote:

I've just inserted a Shock Arrester in the system. See

https://www.tfc-group.co.uk/product/shock-arrestor/

which required a Tee such as

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-brass-compression-adapting-tee-15mm-x-15mm-x-1-2-/94799

Assuming that it has not got a fibre or rubber washer that can seat on
the top edge of the BSP female fitting you have, then you will need to
use PTFE

It cites:

"One commonly used thread sealant that meets these requirements is
PTFE tape, which is a thin, white tape made from
polytetrafluoroethylene. PTFE tape is safe for use with drinking water
and is compatible with brass and stainless steel
fittings. It is also easy to apply and can help to create a tight,
leak-free seal.

When using PTFE tape or any other thread sealant, it is important to
follow the manufacturer's instructions and apply
the sealant properly. This can help to ensure a secure and reliable
connection that adheres to WRAS regulations and
provides safe and reliable operation of the Mini Expansion Vessel
Shock Arrestor - 1/2" BSP."

And the joint drips, only slowly, but nonetheless, drips.

Before I take it all to bits again is there a right and wrong way to
use PTFE tape? I've followed a YouTube video which says to twist the
tape so it fits like a thin string between the threads and then wrap a
couple of layers over the top.

I can't tell from the pictures if either of the threads are taper
fittings. Ideally for a good seal on threads they should both be taper >fittings. If both are parallel, then you can still get a good seal with
PTFE - you just need to use more, and in the right place.

My approach :

Hold the male fitting in your left hand with the thread pointing to the >right. Start winding PTFE tape on the thread at the open end, and in a >clockwise direction (i.e. up in front of the fitting, over the top away
from you, down the back, and back under) You want a couple of turns to
get started, then you wind "up" the thread towards your left hand. As
you get higher you want to be building a thickness of tape. It may need
to be 10 turns at the thick end. Basically you are winding a tapered
spiral of tape that gets thicker the further up the thread you go. The
idea being when screwed into the female socket, the first couple of
turns go in easy, but then it progressively tightens as it goes deeper.
It should go fairly tight, and not bottom out.

If you want to build thickness more quickly or steeply, that is when you
can add a twist to the tape to get double layers further up the thread. >(Personally I don't twist, but will rotate the roll of tape such that I
am winding it on "edgeways" - the tape then scrunches up into a narrower >width of tape).

(the direction matters - you want the tape winding direction to be such
that you are winding it on tighter as you screw it into the socket,
rather than unwinding it).

For a shock arrester it is not too critical how much tape is used and
where since you don't care when it finally "goes tight". If it were a
bib style tap on a wall plate, then that can take more trial and error!

Thanks, and to others.

Well if it can be done wrong then I did it wrong :(

Fitting the shock arrestor involved 4 compression fittings two of
which were seeping.

I just taken it all apart, used new pipe and olives, ensured
everything clean, used the lightest dab of vaseline and this time
ensured I did not overtighten by just watching the drips of water and
firming up until they stopped. I think I had squashed the olives on
my first attempt.

The shock arrestor (straight not tapered threads) came out all too
easily with the previously wound PTFE tape all pushed to the end and
as far as I could tell wound anti-clockwise. I paid more attention to
winding the tape on clockwise and not "roping" it first.

Two hours in and not a drop in sight.

Now will I remember these nuggets of wisdom the next time I do a job
in 5 years time? I didn't from last time.


--
AnthonyL

Why ever wait to finish a job before starting the next?

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