• New Consumer Unit

    From Jeff Gaines@21:1/5 to All on Wed Feb 19 09:11:48 2025
    Now my new boiler is up and running I want to have my consumer unit
    replaced. Much as I would like to DIY it is beyond my physical abilities
    and in any event needs to be certified. I have a quote as follows:

    ***********
    To supply and install a new 18th edition consumer unit, replacing the
    existing dated fuse board. The new board will be metal clad and
    incorporate RCBO's in order to apply the required RCD protection. The main supply tails and earthing conductor will also be upgraded. A surge
    protective device (SPD) will also be installed. Clear and formal circuit identification will be applied. All supply cables entering DB-1 will be adequately supported and containment will be installed The new DB will be installed and fully comply with wiring regulation BS7671.

    This cost is based on the existing bonding being suitably sized.

    We have also allowed to test the system upon completion but please be
    aware that should there be any issues identified that prevent
    certification to be completed, these would need to be rectified
    additionally prior to certification being issued.

    £695 + VAT = £834
    ***********

    The electrician is the one the plumber used to wire up the new controller
    and he made a very neat job of that.

    Does that seem to fit the bill?

    Should I specify a make (or choice of makes) for the consumer unit to
    ensure it is a decent one?

    Anything else I should check?

    Current unit is a MEM Memera 2000 with 7 connections - mix of fuses and RCD.

    --
    Jeff Gaines Dorset UK
    The true meaning of life is to plant trees under whose shade you do not
    expect to sit.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From alan_m@21:1/5 to Jeff Gaines on Wed Feb 19 09:27:46 2025
    On 19/02/2025 09:11, Jeff Gaines wrote:


    Anything else I should check?

    Current unit is a MEM Memera 2000 with 7 connections - mix of fuses and
    RCD.


    Possibly make provision for future additions such as a EV charging point
    and have extra spaces, and capacity, for future equipment you may need
    in old age to support continued living in your own home.

    Isolation switch between the DNO (Distribution Network Operator)incoming
    fuse and the consumer unit.

    --
    mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

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  • From Andy Burns@21:1/5 to Jeff Gaines on Wed Feb 19 10:52:41 2025
    Jeff Gaines wrote:

    To supply and install a new 18th edition consumer unit, replacing the existing dated fuse board. The new board will be metal clad and
    incorporate RCBO's in order to apply the required RCD protection. The
    main supply tails and earthing conductor will also be upgraded. A surge protective device (SPD) will also be installed. Clear and formal circuit identification will be applied. All supply cables entering DB-1 will be adequately supported and containment will be installed The new DB will
    be installed and fully comply with wiring regulation BS7671.

    All sounds reasonable for what you'd expect to be fitted now.

    But would have thought they'd do an EICR beforehand so that they know
    the state of ring continuity, insulation resistance, supply earth
    impedance, missing earth on old lighting circuits, borrowed neutrals,
    etc otherwise they could end up finding issues after the new board is
    fitted ...

    This cost is based on the existing bonding being suitably sized.

    We have also allowed to test the system upon completion but please be
    aware that should there be any issues identified that prevent
    certification to be completed, these would need to be rectified
    additionally prior to  certification being issued.

    £695 + VAT = £834
    ***********

    The electrician is the one the plumber used to wire up the new
    controller and he made a very neat job of that.

    Does that seem to fit the bill?

    Should I specify a make (or choice of makes) for the consumer unit to
    ensure it is a decent one?

    As they've quoted a price, I expect that's based on their favoured brand.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to Jeff Gaines on Wed Feb 19 11:09:26 2025
    On 19/02/2025 09:11, Jeff Gaines wrote:

    Now my new boiler is up and running I want to have my consumer unit
    replaced. Much as I would like to DIY it is beyond my physical abilities
    and in any event needs to be certified. I have a quote as follows:

    ***********
    To supply and install a new 18th edition consumer unit, replacing the existing dated fuse board. The new board will be metal clad and
    incorporate RCBO's in order to apply the required RCD protection. The
    main supply tails and earthing conductor will also be upgraded. A surge protective device (SPD) will also be installed. Clear and formal circuit identification will be applied. All supply cables entering DB-1 will be adequately supported and containment will be installed The new DB will
    be installed and fully comply with wiring regulation BS7671.

    This cost is based on the existing bonding being suitably sized.

    We have also allowed to test the system upon completion but please be
    aware that should there be any issues identified that prevent
    certification to be completed, these would need to be rectified
    additionally prior to  certification being issued.

    £695 + VAT = £834
    ***********

    The electrician is the one the plumber used to wire up the new
    controller and he made a very neat job of that.

    Does that seem to fit the bill?

    Well if using decent quality parts and assuming he means all circuits
    are RCBO protected, then £250 of that is materials... (based on a quick pricing assuming 8 circuits in a 10 way Hager CU)

    So all RCBO is good - better discrimination under fault conditions, and
    less risk of nuisance RCD trips.

    I expect he has factored in some time to allow for fixing existent
    faults that may not be apparent at the moment (like borrowed neutrals etc).

    Should I specify a make (or choice of makes) for the consumer unit to
    ensure it is a decent one?

    Might be worth enquiring what he would use...


    Anything else I should check?

    Current unit is a MEM Memera 2000 with 7 connections - mix of fuses and
    RCD.


    Aside from not being shiny and new, what is wrong with the current setup?


    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

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  • From Jeff Gaines@21:1/5 to John Rumm on Wed Feb 19 11:23:38 2025
    On 19/02/2025 in message <vp4e58$27ekt$1@dont-email.me> John Rumm wrote:

    Current unit is a MEM Memera 2000 with 7 connections - mix of fuses and >>RCD.


    Aside from not being shiny and new, what is wrong with the current setup?

    Good question! If a fuse goes in the current unit it is a PITA to replace involving poking the fuse upwards then lifting it out. The pendant in the
    study blows the fuse when a bulb goes, don't know if that was a weak fuse
    or defective pendant (they will check it as n extra job).

    I think the idea of an update and check is what drove me to it!

    --
    Jeff Gaines Dorset UK
    If Björn & Benny had been called Syd and Dave then ABBA would have been
    called ASDA.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Andrew@21:1/5 to John Rumm on Wed Feb 19 12:46:22 2025
    On 19/02/2025 11:09, John Rumm wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 09:11, Jeff Gaines wrote:

    Now my new boiler is up and running I want to have my consumer unit
    replaced. Much as I would like to DIY it is beyond my physical
    abilities and in any event needs to be certified. I have a quote as
    follows:

    ***********
    To supply and install a new 18th edition consumer unit, replacing the
    existing dated fuse board. The new board will be metal clad and
    incorporate RCBO's in order to apply the required RCD protection. The
    main supply tails and earthing conductor will also be upgraded. A
    surge protective device (SPD) will also be installed. Clear and formal
    circuit identification will be applied. All supply cables entering
    DB-1 will be adequately supported and containment will be installed
    The new DB will be installed and fully comply with wiring regulation
    BS7671.

    This cost is based on the existing bonding being suitably sized.

    We have also allowed to test the system upon completion but please be
    aware that should there be any issues identified that prevent
    certification to be completed, these would need to be rectified
    additionally prior to  certification being issued.

    £695 + VAT = £834
    ***********

    The electrician is the one the plumber used to wire up the new
    controller and he made a very neat job of that.

    Does that seem to fit the bill?

    Well if using decent quality parts and assuming he means all circuits
    are RCBO protected, then £250 of that is materials... (based on a quick pricing assuming 8 circuits in a 10 way Hager CU)

    So all RCBO is good - better discrimination under fault conditions, and
    less risk of nuisance RCD trips.

    I expect he has factored in some time to allow for fixing existent
    faults that may not be apparent at the moment (like borrowed neutrals etc).

    Should I specify a make (or choice of makes) for the consumer unit to
    ensure it is a decent one?

    Might be worth enquiring what he would use...


    Anything else I should check?

    Current unit is a MEM Memera 2000 with 7 connections - mix of fuses
    and RCD.


    Aside from not being shiny and new, what is wrong with the current setup?


    +1 !!!


    He already has RCD protection, though it sounds as if there is only
    a single RCD. This is a 1983 property. What Wiring regs were in force
    then ?

    Because he seems to have a lot of computer stuff over and above an
    average person, a single RCD installation might be tempting fate.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Andrew@21:1/5 to Jeff Gaines on Wed Feb 19 13:04:52 2025
    On 19/02/2025 11:23, Jeff Gaines wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 in message <vp4e58$27ekt$1@dont-email.me> John Rumm wrote:

    Current unit is a MEM Memera 2000 with 7 connections - mix of fuses
    and RCD.


    Aside from not being shiny and new, what is wrong with the current setup?

    Good question! If a fuse goes in the current unit it is a PITA to
    replace

    The only time any of my Wylex rewireble fuses ever 'went' was after
    someone (cough) shorted something out. Ouch.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jeff Gaines@21:1/5 to Andrew on Wed Feb 19 13:26:18 2025
    On 19/02/2025 in message <vp4jr0$289lv$2@dont-email.me> Andrew wrote:

    Aside from not being shiny and new, what is wrong with the current setup?


    +1 !!!


    He already has RCD protection, though it sounds as if there is only
    a single RCD. This is a 1983 property. What Wiring regs were in force
    then ?

    Because he seems to have a lot of computer stuff over and above an
    average person, a single RCD installation might be tempting fate.

    It is one RCD (or whatever they are called now) per circuit, it's just
    part of keeping things up to date.

    --
    Jeff Gaines Dorset UK
    This mess is what happens when you elect a Labour government, in the end
    they will always run out of other people's money to spend.
    (Margaret Thatcher on her election in 1979)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter Johnson@21:1/5 to All on Wed Feb 19 13:23:37 2025
    On 19 Feb 2025 09:11:48 GMT, "Jeff Gaines" <jgnewsid@outlook.com>
    wrote:


    Now my new boiler is up and running I want to have my consumer unit
    replaced. Much as I would like to DIY it is beyond my physical abilities
    and in any event needs to be certified. I have a quote as follows:

    ***********
    To supply and install a new 18th edition consumer unit, replacing the >existing dated fuse board. The new board will be metal clad and
    incorporate RCBO's in order to apply the required RCD protection. The main >supply tails and earthing conductor will also be upgraded. A surge
    protective device (SPD) will also be installed. Clear and formal circuit >identification will be applied. All supply cables entering DB-1 will be >adequately supported and containment will be installed The new DB will be >installed and fully comply with wiring regulation BS7671.

    This cost is based on the existing bonding being suitably sized.

    We have also allowed to test the system upon completion but please be
    aware that should there be any issues identified that prevent
    certification to be completed, these would need to be rectified
    additionally prior to certification being issued.

    £695 + VAT = £834
    ***********


    A passing electrician who thought I might be good for providing some
    extra business gave me a spontaneous/off the cuff quote of 'about
    £1,200' for replacing my 10-year-old CU last year. No discussion about
    what it would include/exclude and I haven't seen any need to replace
    the existing. He had a nice liveried van, though, for a two-man
    business.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Fredxx@21:1/5 to Andrew on Wed Feb 19 13:42:35 2025
    On 19/02/2025 13:04, Andrew wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 11:23, Jeff Gaines wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 in message <vp4e58$27ekt$1@dont-email.me> John Rumm wrote:

    Current unit is a MEM Memera 2000 with 7 connections - mix of fuses
    and RCD.


    Aside from not being shiny and new, what is wrong with the current
    setup?

    Good question! If a fuse goes in the current unit it is a PITA to replace

    The only time any of my Wylex rewireble fuses ever 'went' was after
    someone (cough) shorted something out. Ouch.

    I have known incandescents take out fuses and MCBs, but not known such
    with more recent lamp developments.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to Jeff Gaines on Wed Feb 19 14:31:45 2025
    On 19/02/2025 13:26, Jeff Gaines wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 in message <vp4jr0$289lv$2@dont-email.me> Andrew wrote:

    Aside from not being shiny and new, what is wrong with the current
    setup?


    +1 !!!


    He already has RCD protection, though it sounds as if there is only
    a single RCD. This is a 1983 property. What Wiring regs were in force
    then ?

    15th Edition - so "whole house" RCDs were a thing.

    https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Wiring_regs_history


    Because he seems to have a lot of computer stuff over and above an
    average person, a single RCD installation might be tempting fate.

    It is one RCD (or whatever they are called now) per circuit, it's just
    part of keeping things up to date.

    MCB - Miniature Circuit Breaker - trips on overcurrent - either very
    short term "fault" currents, or longer terms sustained "overload" currents.

    RCD - Residual Current Device - trips on a imbalance between current
    flowing in live and neutral (normally indicating some is returning to
    earth via some unexpected path - possibly you!)

    RCBO - Residual Current (circuit) Breaker with Overload protection -
    basically a combination of the above two.

    So MCB and Fuses protect the installation, and also give shock
    protection when combined with earthing and equipotential bonding.

    RCDs give greatly enhanced shock protection by sensing dangerous
    conditions that would not cause a fuse / MCB to trip.

    So RCDs are generally a good thing, however if one device protects too
    many circuits the chances of a nuisance trip increases since their
    "budget" for leakage current is shared across the installation. Also you
    lose all discrimination - any fault knocks out all of the circuits -
    rather than the ideal where a fault only trips the circuit with the fault.

    So good reasons why you might want to change:

    Current install is damaged or directly unsafe.

    To replace "whole house" RCD protection (or add RCD protection for the
    first time)

    You need more "ways" to accommodate more circuits.

    You have rewireable fuses and fear they may be abused, or that they
    might be difficult to fix should they blow.

    You have a plastic or wood CU and are concerned it might be a fire risk.

    You are getting nuisance trips on RCDs and would like more RCDs or RCDs
    on all circuits (i.e. all RCBO) to mitigate the chance of trips.



    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

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  • From Andrew@21:1/5 to Fredxx on Wed Feb 19 18:11:39 2025
    On 19/02/2025 13:42, Fredxx wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 13:04, Andrew wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 11:23, Jeff Gaines wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 in message <vp4e58$27ekt$1@dont-email.me> John Rumm wrote: >>>
    Current unit is a MEM Memera 2000 with 7 connections - mix of fuses
    and RCD.


    Aside from not being shiny and new, what is wrong with the current
    setup?

    Good question! If a fuse goes in the current unit it is a PITA to
    replace

    The only time any of my Wylex rewireble fuses ever 'went' was after
    someone (cough) shorted something out. Ouch.

    I have known incandescents take out fuses and MCBs, but not known such
    with more recent lamp developments.


    Yup, cheapo supermarket bulbs. Good quality Osram, or similar
    never did this (AFAIK)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From nib@21:1/5 to Andrew on Wed Feb 19 18:28:52 2025
    On 2025-02-19 18:11, Andrew wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 13:42, Fredxx wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 13:04, Andrew wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 11:23, Jeff Gaines wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 in message <vp4e58$27ekt$1@dont-email.me> John Rumm
    wrote:

    Current unit is a MEM Memera 2000 with 7 connections - mix of
    fuses and RCD.


    Aside from not being shiny and new, what is wrong with the current
    setup?

    Good question! If a fuse goes in the current unit it is a PITA to
    replace

    The only time any of my Wylex rewireble fuses ever 'went' was after
    someone (cough) shorted something out. Ouch.

    I have known incandescents take out fuses and MCBs, but not known such
    with more recent lamp developments.


    Yup, cheapo supermarket bulbs. Good quality Osram, or similar
    never did this (AFAIK)


    A decade or two ago, I found the bulbs that nearly always tripped the
    breaker when they failed were Philips "Hint of ..." tinted bulbs!

    nib

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jeff Gaines@21:1/5 to Gaines on Wed Feb 19 22:00:31 2025
    On 19/02/2025 in message <xn0p28g3a38kjee003@news.individual.net> Jeff
    Gaines wrote:

    Should I specify a make (or choice of makes) for the consumer unit to
    ensure it is a decent one?

    They have said they would fit a "Fusebox consumer unit", does that sound OK?

    --
    Jeff Gaines Dorset UK
    Are you confused about gender?
    Try milking a bull, you'll learn real quick.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to Andrew on Wed Feb 19 22:25:00 2025
    On 19/02/2025 18:11, Andrew wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 13:42, Fredxx wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 13:04, Andrew wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 11:23, Jeff Gaines wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 in message <vp4e58$27ekt$1@dont-email.me> John Rumm
    wrote:

    Current unit is a MEM Memera 2000 with 7 connections - mix of
    fuses and RCD.


    Aside from not being shiny and new, what is wrong with the current
    setup?

    Good question! If a fuse goes in the current unit it is a PITA to
    replace

    The only time any of my Wylex rewireble fuses ever 'went' was after
    someone (cough) shorted something out. Ouch.

    I have known incandescents take out fuses and MCBs, but not known such
    with more recent lamp developments.


    Yup, cheapo supermarket bulbs. Good quality Osram, or similar
    never did this (AFAIK)


    GU10 mains halogens were quite prone to it...

    (I used to fit type C MCBs for the lighting circuits - that usually
    stopped it)

    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Andy Burns@21:1/5 to The Natural Philosopher on Thu Feb 20 11:38:44 2025
    The Natural Philosopher wrote:

    If I were to redo my CU today I would fit RCBOs to all 13A outlets and a
    main RCD of around 100mA to the whole box

    Are you a TT supply? I though not with your mention of replacement transformers etc ... why add a single point of potential nuisance trips?

    and use a brand that I knew would be around for as long as MK has.

    Are MK that safe nowadays? They announced in 2019 they were stopping
    doing CUs, then changed their mind.

    Look in the footer of <https://mksentrycircuitprotection.co.uk>

    The MK brand is owned by Novar ED&S, in turn by Novar Holdings, who are
    in liquidation, the head office is Honeywell House, which reflects the
    previous owner, the UK factory at St Asaph is gone, now made in China by
    Yihua ...

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Theo@21:1/5 to The Natural Philosopher on Thu Feb 20 11:38:57 2025
    The Natural Philosopher <tnp@invalid.invalid> wrote:
    On 20/02/2025 11:15, Theo wrote:
    Jeff Gaines <jgnewsid@outlook.com> wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 in message <xn0p28g3a38kjee003@news.individual.net> Jeff
    Gaines wrote:

    Should I specify a make (or choice of makes) for the consumer unit to
    ensure it is a decent one?

    They have said they would fit a "Fusebox consumer unit", does that sound OK?

    It's a budget brand, been going since 2017: https://consumerunitworld.co.uk/fusebox-389-c.asp

    Sounds ok, in that the budget brands are still held to the same standards as everyone else so they should work as expected. The one question with budget brands is whether they're going to be around in years to come when you need to add extra circuits or otherwise modify the installation.

    In theory you are only supposed to use components that the manufacturer has specified will work together, which means sticking will all one brand. eg there can be issues fitting busbars from one brand into the terminals of another. Not something that can't be worked around (worst case you could just use a wire), but less than ideal.

    My CU replacement in 2021 was a similar scale job and similar price to yours, but that included using Hager components. They had suggested Fusebox
    but I asked them to upgrade as I may put in further circuits in future. OTOH there's been inflation since then, which maybe covers the difference.

    Theo

    I think this is sound advice.
    If I were to redo my CU today I would fit RCBOs to all 13A outlets and a
    main RCD of around 100mA to the whole box and use a brand that I knew
    would be around for as long as MK has. And leave some extra places for expansion.

    Even if it cost another couple of hundred.

    Given the costs of labour, spending a little more on materials seems to make sense to me. Getting a bigger board with some extra blank slots costs a
    couple of quid more but may come in handy in case you (or whoever you might sell to) want to install heat pump, solar panels, EV charger, battery, ...
    in decades to come. Unless you're super tight on space it's just a few more inches in width and some extra metal, but buys you breathing space down the road.

    Although MK doesn't have a good reputation these days - they were bought out
    by Honeywell and made cheaper/nastier (see the MK Essentials debacle).
    They still sell garage-style CUs but aren't a big player in the whole-house
    CU market any more. But I think they do still sell MCBs/RCBOs that are compatible with their old boards, so you do get that longevity.

    Theo

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  • From The Natural Philosopher@21:1/5 to Andy Burns on Thu Feb 20 12:11:43 2025
    On 20/02/2025 11:38, Andy Burns wrote:
    The Natural Philosopher wrote:

    If I were to redo my CU today I would fit RCBOs to all 13A outlets and
    a main RCD of around 100mA to the whole box

    Are you a TT supply?  I though not with your mention of replacement transformers etc ... why add a single point of potential nuisance trips?

    I can never remember what I am, I both have an earth supplied from the transformer substation AND a copper stake in the ground :-)

    The reason for an overall RCD is that it is a handy way to trip circuits
    that are unlikely to be accessed by humans and so have no RCBO. E.g mice chewing through cooker cables and lighting cables.

    With a lot of electronic equipment 30mA is very much on the edge for a
    large installation

    and use a brand that I knew would be around for as long as MK has.

    Are MK that safe nowadays?  They announced in 2019 they were stopping
    doing CUs, then changed their mind.

    I didnt say MK but a brand that has been around for a while.

    Look in the footer of <https://mksentrycircuitprotection.co.uk>

    The MK brand is owned by Novar ED&S, in turn by Novar Holdings, who are
    in liquidation, the head office is Honeywell House, which reflects the previous owner, the UK factory at St Asaph is gone, now made in China by Yihua ...


    Sad. Well we all know other 'well known' brands. Simply look into
    Screwfix and see what is selling


    --
    "The great thing about Glasgow is that if there's a nuclear attack it'll
    look exactly the same afterwards."

    Billy Connolly

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From The Natural Philosopher@21:1/5 to Theo on Thu Feb 20 11:19:22 2025
    On 20/02/2025 11:15, Theo wrote:
    Jeff Gaines <jgnewsid@outlook.com> wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 in message <xn0p28g3a38kjee003@news.individual.net> Jeff
    Gaines wrote:

    Should I specify a make (or choice of makes) for the consumer unit to
    ensure it is a decent one?

    They have said they would fit a "Fusebox consumer unit", does that sound OK?

    It's a budget brand, been going since 2017: https://consumerunitworld.co.uk/fusebox-389-c.asp

    Sounds ok, in that the budget brands are still held to the same standards
    as everyone else so they should work as expected. The one question with budget brands is whether they're going to be around in years to come when
    you need to add extra circuits or otherwise modify the installation.

    In theory you are only supposed to use components that the manufacturer has specified will work together, which means sticking will all one brand. eg there can be issues fitting busbars from one brand into the terminals of another. Not something that can't be worked around (worst case you could just use a wire), but less than ideal.

    My CU replacement in 2021 was a similar scale job and similar price to
    yours, but that included using Hager components. They had suggested Fusebox but I asked them to upgrade as I may put in further circuits in future.
    OTOH there's been inflation since then, which maybe covers the difference.

    Theo

    I think this is sound advice.
    If I were to redo my CU today I would fit RCBOs to all 13A outlets and a
    main RCD of around 100mA to the whole box and use a brand that I knew
    would be around for as long as MK has. And leave some extra places for expansion.

    Even if it cost another couple of hundred.
    --
    If I had all the money I've spent on drink...
    ..I'd spend it on drink.

    Sir Henry (at Rawlinson's End)

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  • From Theo@21:1/5 to Jeff Gaines on Thu Feb 20 11:15:44 2025
    Jeff Gaines <jgnewsid@outlook.com> wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 in message <xn0p28g3a38kjee003@news.individual.net> Jeff
    Gaines wrote:

    Should I specify a make (or choice of makes) for the consumer unit to >ensure it is a decent one?

    They have said they would fit a "Fusebox consumer unit", does that sound OK?

    It's a budget brand, been going since 2017: https://consumerunitworld.co.uk/fusebox-389-c.asp

    Sounds ok, in that the budget brands are still held to the same standards
    as everyone else so they should work as expected. The one question with
    budget brands is whether they're going to be around in years to come when
    you need to add extra circuits or otherwise modify the installation.

    In theory you are only supposed to use components that the manufacturer has specified will work together, which means sticking will all one brand. eg there can be issues fitting busbars from one brand into the terminals of another. Not something that can't be worked around (worst case you could
    just use a wire), but less than ideal.

    My CU replacement in 2021 was a similar scale job and similar price to
    yours, but that included using Hager components. They had suggested Fusebox but I asked them to upgrade as I may put in further circuits in future.
    OTOH there's been inflation since then, which maybe covers the difference.

    Theo

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  • From Fredxx@21:1/5 to The Natural Philosopher on Thu Feb 20 14:23:24 2025
    On 20/02/2025 11:19, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

    <snip>

    If I were to redo my CU today I would fit RCBOs to all 13A outlets and a
    main RCD of around 100mA to the whole box and use a brand that I knew
    would be around for as long as MK has. And leave some extra places for expansion.

    Except there really is no need for the main 100mA RCD and it would serve
    no purpose apart from creating nuisance tripping.

    If the supply had very long tails then perhaps I can perhaps understand
    the 100mA RCD closer to the supply but it should then be one with a time
    delay for discrimination.

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  • From ARW@21:1/5 to Andy Burns on Thu Feb 20 19:39:40 2025
    On 19/02/2025 10:52, Andy Burns wrote:

    But would have thought they'd do an EICR beforehand so that they know
    the state of ring continuity, insulation resistance, supply earth
    impedance, missing earth on old lighting circuits, borrowed neutrals,
    etc otherwise they could end up finding issues after the new board is
    fitted ...

    That's the point of testing afterwards......

    If nothing trips and there are no problems you have just charged £695
    for £160 of parts (that you can claim the VAT back on) for three hours
    of labour to swap the CU and do a basic test.

    Do a proper EICR for 4-5 hours before the CU swap and you should know
    all the faults beforehand and be able to tell the customer the real cost
    of the remedial works.

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  • From ARW@21:1/5 to Fredxx on Thu Feb 20 19:26:41 2025
    On 20/02/2025 14:23, Fredxx wrote:
    On 20/02/2025 11:19, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

    <snip>

    If I were to redo my CU today I would fit RCBOs to all 13A outlets and
    a main RCD of around 100mA to the whole box and use a brand that I
    knew would be around for as long as MK has. And leave some extra
    places for expansion.

    Except there really is no need for the main 100mA RCD and it would serve
    no purpose apart from creating nuisance tripping.

    If the supply had very long tails then perhaps I can perhaps understand
    the 100mA RCD closer to the supply but it should then be one with a time delay for discrimination.


    It must always be a time delayed 100mA RCD if used with 30mA RCD further
    down the line.

    It does not matter where you put the 100mA RCD - close to the CU or
    close to the CU - remember a RCD only checks for an imbalance of current.

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  • From Jeff Gaines@21:1/5 to Gaines on Mon Mar 3 14:45:17 2025
    On 19/02/2025 in message <xn0p28g3a38kjee003@news.individual.net> Jeff
    Gaines wrote:

    Should I specify a make (or choice of makes) for the consumer unit to
    ensure it is a decent one?

    Apologies for coming back on this but I thought somebody had mentioned
    good quality manufacturers, including Hager, but I can't find the post now.

    Any recommendations please?

    --
    Jeff Gaines Dorset UK
    There is absolutely no substitute for a genuine lack of preparation

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  • From The Natural Philosopher@21:1/5 to Jeff Gaines on Mon Mar 3 16:08:14 2025
    On 03/03/2025 14:45, Jeff Gaines wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 in message <xn0p28g3a38kjee003@news.individual.net> Jeff
    Gaines wrote:

    Should I specify a make (or choice of makes) for the consumer unit to
    ensure it is a decent one?

    Apologies for coming back on this but I thought somebody had mentioned
    good quality manufacturers, including Hager, but I can't find the post now.

    Any recommendations please?

    I haven't installed one for 24 years but ISTR people talking about wylex
    and crabtree favourably

    Screwfix sell both.


    --
    “It is not the truth of Marxism that explains the willingness of intellectuals to believe it, but the power that it confers on
    intellectuals, in their attempts to control the world. And since...it is
    futile to reason someone out of a thing that he was not reasoned into,
    we can conclude that Marxism owes its remarkable power to survive every criticism to the fact that it is not a truth-directed but a
    power-directed system of thought.â€
    Sir Roger Scruton

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  • From ARW@21:1/5 to Jeff Gaines on Wed Mar 5 19:16:07 2025
    On 03/03/2025 14:45, Jeff Gaines wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 in message <xn0p28g3a38kjee003@news.individual.net> Jeff
    Gaines wrote:

    Should I specify a make (or choice of makes) for the consumer unit to
    ensure it is a decent one?

    Apologies for coming back on this but I thought somebody had mentioned
    good quality manufacturers, including Hager, but I can't find the post now.

    Any recommendations please?


    Hager are one of my favourites.

    I have recommended them many times.

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  • From Theo@21:1/5 to The Natural Philosopher on Wed Mar 5 21:15:02 2025
    The Natural Philosopher <tnp@invalid.invalid> wrote:
    On 03/03/2025 14:45, Jeff Gaines wrote:
    On 19/02/2025 in message <xn0p28g3a38kjee003@news.individual.net> Jeff Gaines wrote:

    Should I specify a make (or choice of makes) for the consumer unit to
    ensure it is a decent one?

    Apologies for coming back on this but I thought somebody had mentioned
    good quality manufacturers, including Hager, but I can't find the post now.

    Any recommendations please?

    I have a Hager, it seems decent enough.
    I asked the electrician to fit them instead of a Fusebox, as I'm likely to
    be doing additions at some point and don't want to end up with a no-brand
    where you can't get the parts any more.

    I haven't installed one for 24 years but ISTR people talking about wylex
    and crabtree favourably

    Wylex and Crabtree are both made by Electrium. They fine AFAIK, but I'm
    not sure there's any difference (ie I can't obviously see one as the 'Audi'
    and one as the 'Skoda' with one being obviously superior).

    Avoid MK, who are just a brand slapped on Chinesium now.

    Theo

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