So a steel cylinder you whack with a hammer, on the other end a collet
for various screw head bits and a L or R hand thread option ring.
So do you use a heavy lump hammer/lead headed hammer rather than lighter
claw hammer?
Do you press down to partly engage the internal spring to keep the bit
in the bolt head or fully push down so the spring bottoms out, before
whacking with the hammer? or hardly push against the spring at all, just
enough to locate the bit in the screw head?


--
Global sea level rise to 2100 from curve-fitted existing altimetry data <http://diverse.4mg.com/slr.htm>

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On 23/02/2025 14:10, N_Cook wrote:

So a steel cylinder you whack with a hammer, on the other end a collet
for various screw head bits and a L or R hand thread option ring.
So do you use a heavy lump hammer/lead headed hammer rather than lighter
claw hammer?
Do you press down to partly engage the internal spring to keep the bit
in the bolt head or fully push down so the spring bottoms out, before whacking with the hammer? or hardly push against the spring at all, just enough to locate the bit in the screw head?

I engage mine into the screw, twist it the direction I want it to go and
use a 2lb hammer.

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On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 14:32:54 +0000, ajh <news@loampitsfarm.co.uk> wrote:

On 23/02/2025 14:10, N_Cook wrote:

So a steel cylinder you whack with a hammer, on the other end a collet
for various screw head bits and a L or R hand thread option ring.
So do you use a heavy lump hammer/lead headed hammer rather than lighter
claw hammer?
Do you press down to partly engage the internal spring to keep the bit
in the bolt head or fully push down so the spring bottoms out, before
whacking with the hammer? or hardly push against the spring at all, just
enough to locate the bit in the screw head?

I engage mine into the screw, twist it the direction I want it to go and
use a 2lb hammer.

Me too...

Do not bottom out the spring, the cylinder needs to compress to work. Giving it a bit of pretension to get it seated and set in the direction it needs to move is OK.

Thomas Prufer

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On 24/02/2025 08:08, Thomas Prufer wrote:

On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 14:32:54 +0000, ajh <news@loampitsfarm.co.uk> wrote:

On 23/02/2025 14:10, N_Cook wrote:

So a steel cylinder you whack with a hammer, on the other end a collet
for various screw head bits and a L or R hand thread option ring.
So do you use a heavy lump hammer/lead headed hammer rather than lighter >>> claw hammer?
Do you press down to partly engage the internal spring to keep the bit
in the bolt head or fully push down so the spring bottoms out, before
whacking with the hammer? or hardly push against the spring at all, just >>> enough to locate the bit in the screw head?

I engage mine into the screw, twist it the direction I want it to go and
use a 2lb hammer.

Me too...

Do not bottom out the spring, the cylinder needs to compress to work. Giving it
a bit of pretension to get it seated and set in the direction it needs to move
is OK.

Thomas Prufer

So its related to inertia. If there was no rotational movement after
hammer impact , if the torsion spring had been precompressed, there
would be less impulsive energy built up in a rotational sense to wang
into the bolt head.

--
Global sea level rise to 2100 from curve-fitted existing altimetry data <http://diverse.4mg.com/slr.htm>

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On 24/02/2025 08:29, N_Cook wrote:

On 24/02/2025 08:08, Thomas Prufer wrote:

On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 14:32:54 +0000, ajh <news@loampitsfarm.co.uk> wrote:

On 23/02/2025 14:10, N_Cook wrote:

So a steel cylinder you whack with a hammer, on the other end a collet >>>> for various screw head bits and a L or R hand thread option ring.
So do you use a heavy lump hammer/lead headed hammer rather than
lighter
claw hammer?
Do you press down to partly engage the internal spring to keep the bit >>>> in the bolt head or fully push down so the spring bottoms out, before
whacking with the hammer? or hardly push against the spring at all,
just
enough to locate the bit in the screw head?

I engage mine into the screw, twist it the direction I want it to go and >>> use a 2lb hammer.

Me too...

Do not bottom out the spring, the cylinder needs to compress to work.
Giving it
a bit of pretension to get it seated and set in the direction it needs
to move
is OK.

Thomas Prufer

So its related to inertia. If there was no rotational movement after
hammer impact ,  if the torsion spring had been precompressed, there
would be less impulsive energy built up in a rotational sense to wang
into the bolt head.

Umm. Internally the device is a male/female triangular shape. Engaging
contact by the initial manual rotation, you determine which direction
the rotational force imparts to your nut/bolt head. The force from your
hammer blow is converted to rotational torque mostly felt by the
nut/bolt although some must be lost at your hand/tool body contact.


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On 24/02/2025 09:30, Timatmarford wrote:

On 24/02/2025 08:29, N_Cook wrote:

On 24/02/2025 08:08, Thomas Prufer wrote:

On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 14:32:54 +0000, ajh <news@loampitsfarm.co.uk> wrote: >>>

On 23/02/2025 14:10, N_Cook wrote:

So a steel cylinder you whack with a hammer, on the other end a collet >>>>> for various screw head bits and a L or R hand thread option ring.
So do you use a heavy lump hammer/lead headed hammer rather than
lighter
claw hammer?
Do you press down to partly engage the internal spring to keep the bit >>>>> in the bolt head or fully push down so the spring bottoms out, before >>>>> whacking with the hammer? or hardly push against the spring at all,
just
enough to locate the bit in the screw head?

I engage mine into the screw, twist it the direction I want it to go
and
use a 2lb hammer.

Me too...

Do not bottom out the spring, the cylinder needs to compress to work.
Giving it
a bit of pretension to get it seated and set in the direction it
needs to move
is OK.

Thomas Prufer

So its related to inertia. If there was no rotational movement after
hammer impact , if the torsion spring had been precompressed, there
would be less impulsive energy built up in a rotational sense to wang
into the bolt head.

Umm. Internally the device is a male/female triangular shape. Engaging contact by the initial manual rotation, you determine which direction
the rotational force imparts to your nut/bolt head. The force from your hammer blow is converted to rotational torque mostly felt by the
nut/bolt although some must be lost at your hand/tool body contact.

I should have said momentum rather than inertia. Looks like I've been erroneously pushing and rotating impact drivers, doh!
I suppose if a carpenters hammer fails and heating has failed and then
its all or nothing, ie risking graunching the slot, then try a lump
hammer. Then drilling with left hand drill and LH drill bit and
so-called easy-out as next to last option.

--
Global sea level rise to 2100 from curve-fitted existing altimetry data <http://diverse.4mg.com/slr.htm>

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On Mon, 24 Feb 2025 12:31:35 +0000, N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

I should have said momentum rather than inertia. Looks like I've been >erroneously pushing and rotating impact drivers, doh!
I suppose if a carpenters hammer fails and heating has failed and then
its all or nothing, ie risking graunching the slot, then try a lump
hammer. Then drilling with left hand drill and LH drill bit and
so-called easy-out as next to last option.

Weld a nut on, pound a torx bit into a hex hole, EDM erode the easy-out you broke off, ...

or "Screw Doctor": "The original! The patented screwing aid for better screwing.
Gives the tool "grip" and hold. All screws quickly solved - one drop is enough -
for all screw types, even for bits."

It is also "Ecologically unconcerned"...*


Thomas Prufer




*) <https://www.flume.de/en/tools-supplies/sales-and-workshop-tools/screw-releaser-set/screw-doctor-20g/334937>

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On 24/02/2025 08:08, Thomas Prufer wrote:

On Sun, 23 Feb 2025 14:32:54 +0000, ajh <news@loampitsfarm.co.uk> wrote:

On 23/02/2025 14:10, N_Cook wrote:

So a steel cylinder you whack with a hammer, on the other end a collet
for various screw head bits and a L or R hand thread option ring.
So do you use a heavy lump hammer/lead headed hammer rather than lighter >>> claw hammer?
Do you press down to partly engage the internal spring to keep the bit
in the bolt head or fully push down so the spring bottoms out, before
whacking with the hammer? or hardly push against the spring at all, just >>> enough to locate the bit in the screw head?

I engage mine into the screw, twist it the direction I want it to go and
use a 2lb hammer.

Me too...

Do not bottom out the spring, the cylinder needs to compress to work. Giving it
a bit of pretension to get it seated and set in the direction it needs to move
is OK.

You may need to bottom out the sprint to place it in the "undo"
position whilst applying anticlockwise tension.

But, yes, the spring should be extended whilst applying some
anticlockwise tension before striking it with a hammer.

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