Recently, I've had to extend a number of 2.5 T&E cables that will be
buried in plaster. I always use soldered joints (with the joints
staggered, heat shrink over the individual joints and also over the
outer) but I read that many people prefer crimps - is this just because
they don't know how to solder reliably?
I used to twist the conductors to get a neat in-line joint, but this is
a pain to do and needs a long length of bare conductor. These days I
form hooks on the conductors, interlock them and squeeze hard (to ensure they're mechanically linked and that there aren't any protrusions)
before filling the joint with flux-cored solder. This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump. What do others do?
Recently, I've had to extend a number of 2.5 T&E cables that will be
buried in plaster. [...] What do others do?
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:I'm surprised. Soldering is not exactly a highly skilled task! Clean the
Recently, I've had to extend a number of 2.5 T&E cables that will be
buried in plaster. I always use soldered joints (with the joints
staggered, heat shrink over the individual joints and also over the
outer) but I read that many people prefer crimps - is this just
because they don't know how to solder reliably?
I used to twist the conductors to get a neat in-line joint, but this
is a pain to do and needs a long length of bare conductor. These days
I form hooks on the conductors, interlock them and squeeze hard (to
ensure they're mechanically linked and that there aren't any
protrusions) before filling the joint with flux-cored solder. This
give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump. What do
others do?
Electricians are not trained in soldering, which is why you won't see
them doing it, although soldering is a permitted method of making inaccessible cable joins.
A properly soldered joint with tin/lead solder should last longer than a crimp. (Lead-free solder doesn't have the same long life.)I've occasionally used a "barrel" from a chock block (without the
Solder isn't intended to be a mechanical connection, but you have maybe ensured a good mechanical connection with your loops. I have soldered inaccessible connections in the distant past by using a regular screw terminal bakelite junction box, and soldering the terminals/conductors afterwards. I'm not so sure your cable join without an enclosure is
quite as acceptable. You could argue another reason for soldering not
being used regularly is the lack of cable connectors designed for it on
the market.
T&E PVC insulation isn't well designed to handle soldering temperatures,Clips on the wires can act as heat sinks to reduce the risk.
and melts someway up the wire, and might not meet insulation spec after
it's solidified again. This area would need to be sleeved. The copper
needs well protecting from plaster/cement and any moisture which gets
into it.
I personally don't regard Wagos as acceptable for inaccessible joints.They're very useful but I certainly wouldn't bury them. They're OK in
Recently, I've had to extend a number of 2.5 T&E cables that will be
buried in plaster. I always use soldered joints (with the joints
staggered, heat shrink over the individual joints and also over the
outer) but I read that many people prefer crimps - is this just because
they don't know how to solder reliably?
I used to twist the conductors to get a neat in-line joint, but this is
a pain to do and needs a long length of bare conductor. These days I
form hooks on the conductors, interlock them and squeeze hard (to ensure they're mechanically linked and that there aren't any protrusions)
before filling the joint with flux-cored solder. This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump. What do others do?
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump.
What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with thin
gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding, then finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink will
easily slide over.
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump. What
do others do?
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give a
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump.
What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with thin
gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding, then finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink will
easily slide over.
Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump.
What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with thin
gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding, then
finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink will
easily slide over.
I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give a
good mechanical joint (which is essential) and is a pain to do
Recently, I've had to extend a number of 2.5 T&E cables that will be
buried in plaster. I always use soldered joints (with the joints
staggered, heat shrink over the individual joints and also over the
outer)
but I read that many people prefer crimps - is this just because
they don't know how to solder reliably?
I used to twist the conductors to get a neat in-line joint, but this is
a pain to do and needs a long length of bare conductor. These days I
form hooks on the conductors, interlock them and squeeze hard (to ensure they're mechanically linked and that there aren't any protrusions)
before filling the joint with flux-cored solder. This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump. What do others do?
Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give a good mechanical joint (which is essential) and is a pain to do
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump. What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with thin gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding, then finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink will easily slide over.
On Tue, 2/25/2025 5:53 AM, No mail wrote:
Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give a good mechanical joint (which is essential) and is a pain to do
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump. What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with thin gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding, then finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink will easily slide over.
Solder is not a mechanical solution. It's not supposed to have tension applied to it, for tin-lead at least.
Even as a hobbyist, I learned the hard way, to not do it this way.
If the solder fails for any reason, the two items come apart immediately.
-----------
----------------- [Your first hobbyist method... until you have a failure]
^^^^^^
Dribble
solder
here
Here is a video of a clever technique.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-ymw7d_nYo
NASA did not invent that technique, but at least it is codified
in some of their assembly specs as a "right way to do it".
Paul
On 25/02/2025 10:53, No mail wrote:
Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump.
What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with thin
gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding, then
finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink will
easily slide over.
I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give a
good mechanical joint (which is essential) and is a pain to do
Yup page 3 of the wiring regs, 1st edition:
https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/a/ad/The_Wiring_Regs_1st_Edition.pdf
John Rumm wrote:Hmmm, that link doesn't seem to work. What image hosting site do others use?
On 25/02/2025 10:53, No mail wrote:Coincidentally, look what I found today behind a piece of nailed-on hardboard: https://ibb.co/JWFzHnP3 ... fortunately, long-since disconnected
Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump.
What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with thin
gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding, then
finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink
will easily slide over.
I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give a
good mechanical joint (which is essential) and is a pain to do
Yup page 3 of the wiring regs, 1st edition:
https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/a/ad/The_Wiring_Regs_1st_Edition.pdf
No mail wrote:
John Rumm wrote:Hmmm, that link doesn't seem to work. What image hosting site do others
On 25/02/2025 10:53, No mail wrote:Coincidentally, look what I found today behind a piece of nailed-on
Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump. >>>>>> What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with thin >>>>> gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding, then
finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink
will easily slide over.
I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give a
good mechanical joint (which is essential) and is a pain to do
Yup page 3 of the wiring regs, 1st edition:
https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/a/ad/The_Wiring_Regs_1st_Edition.pdf
hardboard: https://ibb.co/JWFzHnP3 ... fortunately, long-since
disconnected
use?
On Tue, 25 Feb 2025 15:40:19 +0000, No mail wrote:
No mail wrote:
John Rumm wrote:Hmmm, that link doesn't seem to work. What image hosting site do others
On 25/02/2025 10:53, No mail wrote:Coincidentally, look what I found today behind a piece of nailed-on
Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump. >>>>>>> What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with thin >>>>>> gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding, then
finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink
will easily slide over.
I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give a >>>>> good mechanical joint (which is essential) and is a pain to do
Yup page 3 of the wiring regs, 1st edition:
https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/a/ad/The_Wiring_Regs_1st_Edition.pdf >>>>
hardboard: https://ibb.co/JWFzHnP3 ... fortunately, long-since
disconnected
use?
ok here
looks like 7/029
On 25/02/2025 10:16, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump.
What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with thin
gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding, then
finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink will
easily slide over.
If you have all that it is a lovely way to do it. Back in the day
everyone had fusewire.,..
No mail wrote:
John Rumm wrote:Hmmm, that link doesn't seem to work. What image hosting site do others
On 25/02/2025 10:53, No mail wrote:Coincidentally, look what I found today behind a piece of nailed-on
Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump. >>>>>> What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with
thin gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding,
then finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink
will easily slide over.
I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give
a good mechanical joint (which is essential) and is a pain to do
Yup page 3 of the wiring regs, 1st edition:
https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/a/ad/The_Wiring_Regs_1st_Edition.pdf
hardboard: https://ibb.co/JWFzHnP3 ... fortunately, long-since
disconnected
use?
On 25/02/2025 11:09, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 25/02/2025 10:16, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump.
What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with thin
gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding, then
finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink will
easily slide over.
If you have all that it is a lovely way to do it. Back in the day
everyone had fusewire.,..
B&Q Lyons farm, Worthing had at least 30 packs of 30/15/5 fusewire
on sale only a few days ago.
On 25/02/2025 10:53, No mail wrote:
Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump.
What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with thin
gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding, then
finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink will
easily slide over.
I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give a
good mechanical joint (which is essential) and is a pain to do
Yup page 3 of the wiring regs, 1st edition:
https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/a/ad/The_Wiring_Regs_1st_Edition.pdf
In article <vpkdt9$1vfbi$1@dont-email.me>, John Rumm <see.my.signature@n owhere.null> scribeth thus
On 25/02/2025 10:53, No mail wrote:
Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump.
What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with thin
gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding, then
finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink will
easily slide over.
I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give a
good mechanical joint (which is essential) and is a pain to do
Yup page 3 of the wiring regs, 1st edition:
https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/a/ad/The_Wiring_Regs_1st_Edition.pdf
Well something that we don't have a problem with these days;)...
I. THE DYNAMO MACHINE.
1. The dynamo machine should be fixed in a dry place.
2. It should not be exposed to dust or flyings.
3. It should be kept perfectly dean and its bearings well oiled.
I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give a
good mechanical joint (which is essential) and is a pain to do
On 25/02/2025 10:53, No mail wrote:
I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give a
good mechanical joint (which is essential) and is a pain to do
I disagree, it is by far the strongest, and most flexible, and smallest
joint which can be made. Electrically, it has by far, the lowest
resistance too, plus done right - the most preliable.
On 25/02/2025 10:53, No mail wrote:Yes, soldering gives a good joint but it needs mechanical strength,
I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give a
good mechanical joint (which is essential) and is a pain to do
I disagree, it is by far the strongest, and most flexible, and smallest
joint which can be made. Electrically, it has by far, the lowest
resistance too, plus done right - the most preliable.
In article <vpkdt9$1vfbi$1@dont-email.me>, John Rumm <see.my.signature@n owhere.null> scribeth thus
On 25/02/2025 10:53, No mail wrote:
Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump.
What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with thin
gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding, then
finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink will
easily slide over.
I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give a
good mechanical joint (which is essential) and is a pain to do
Yup page 3 of the wiring regs, 1st edition:
https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/a/ad/The_Wiring_Regs_1st_Edition.pdf
Well something that we don't have a problem with these days;)...
I. THE DYNAMO MACHINE.
1. The dynamo machine should be fixed in a dry place.
2. It should not be exposed to dust or flyings.
3. It should be kept perfectly dean and its bearings well oiled.
4. The insulation of its coils and conductors should be perfect.
5. It is better, when practicable, to fix it on an insulating bed.
6. All conductors in the Dynamo Room should be firmly supported,
well insulated, conveniently arranged for inspection, and marked or
numbered.
On 27/02/2025 20:14, tony sayer wrote:
In article <vpkdt9$1vfbi$1@dont-email.me>, John Rumm <see.my.signature@n
owhere.null> scribeth thus
On 25/02/2025 10:53, No mail wrote:
Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
On 24/02/2025 20:22, No mail wrote:
This give a strong and electrically secure joint, but with a bump. >>>>>> What do others do?
Lay the stipped ends, side by side, then bind them tightly with thin >>>>> gauge copper wire. 5amp fuse wire, works well, for binding, then
finally solder and insulate.
I makes a strong joint, with no lumps or bumps, which heatshrink will >>>>> easily slide over.
I think that's what the guidance *used* to say, but it doesn't give a
good mechanical joint (which is essential) and is a pain to do
Yup page 3 of the wiring regs, 1st edition:
https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/a/ad/The_Wiring_Regs_1st_Edition.pdf
Well something that we don't have a problem with these days;)...
I. THE DYNAMO MACHINE.
1. The dynamo machine should be fixed in a dry place.
2. It should not be exposed to dust or flyings.
3. It should be kept perfectly dean and its bearings well oiled.
4. The insulation of its coils and conductors should be perfect.
5. It is better, when practicable, to fix it on an insulating bed.
6. All conductors in the Dynamo Room should be firmly supported,
well insulated, conveniently arranged for inspection, and marked or
numbered.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoA7HwqtdoI
4:10 seconds
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