• Re: Another electrical adventure

    From Scott@21:1/5 to newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk on Thu Mar 6 12:45:38 2025
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:31:00 +0000, Scott
    <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light switch in my
    living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO only to
    find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen lights'. I
    don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were
    bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change
    these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, so is
    there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a red
    wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. Am I
    allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any
    cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    PS. I have googled and there seem to be mixed opinions about sleeving (especially for red wires).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott@21:1/5 to All on Thu Mar 6 12:31:00 2025
    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light switch in my
    living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO only to
    find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen lights'. I
    don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were
    bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change
    these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, so is
    there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a red
    wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. Am I
    allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any
    cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to Scott on Wed Mar 12 11:07:27 2025
    On 06/03/2025 12:45, Scott wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:31:00 +0000, Scott
    <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light switch in my
    living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO only to
    find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen lights'. I
    don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were
    bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change
    these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, so is
    there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a red
    wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. Am I
    allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any
    cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    PS. I have googled and there seem to be mixed opinions about sleeving (especially for red wires).

    Much depends on context and what scope there is for confusion. Red does
    not appear in the harmonised colours anywhere so there is not much scope
    for it being taken as anything else. So unless you are actually using it
    for some other purpose where it must be over marked, there is little
    added value IMHO.

    Blue (was line, now neutral), Black (was negative, now live) on the
    other hand...


    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Theo@21:1/5 to Andy Burns on Fri Mar 14 10:04:54 2025
    Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk> wrote:
    Scott wrote:

    can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the
    cables to fit the grommet?

    Obviously they're not intended to be snipped, but you see too many
    backboxes without them fitted.

    If you were concerned you could superglue it back together after
    fitting, I doubt the Part P Taliban would behead you for it ...

    As long as it's giving protection from chafing against sharp metal edges
    then it's doing its job.

    You can buy 'grommet strip' which you cut to length: https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/categories/cable-management/grommet-strip

    and that's commonly used, so there's no need to have a continuous grommet.
    If cutting it causes it to shrink and not protect the edge then it's better
    to replace with something that does.

    Nothing to do with Part P, by the way...

    Theo

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott@21:1/5 to see.my.signature@nowhere.null on Fri Mar 14 09:24:50 2025
    On Wed, 12 Mar 2025 11:07:27 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 06/03/2025 12:45, Scott wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:31:00 +0000, Scott
    <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light switch in my
    living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO only to
    find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen lights'. I
    don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were
    bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change
    these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, so is
    there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a red
    wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. Am I
    allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any
    cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    PS. I have googled and there seem to be mixed opinions about sleeving
    (especially for red wires).

    Much depends on context and what scope there is for confusion. Red does
    not appear in the harmonised colours anywhere so there is not much scope
    for it being taken as anything else. So unless you are actually using it
    for some other purpose where it must be over marked, there is little
    added value IMHO.

    Blue (was line, now neutral), Black (was negative, now live) on the
    other hand...

    Thanks. And can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the
    cables to fit the grommet?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Andy Burns@21:1/5 to Scott on Fri Mar 14 09:34:27 2025
    Scott wrote:

    can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the
    cables to fit the grommet?

    Obviously they're not intended to be snipped, but you see too many
    backboxes without them fitted.

    If you were concerned you could superglue it back together after
    fitting, I doubt the Part P Taliban would behead you for it ...

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From alan_m@21:1/5 to Andy Burns on Fri Mar 14 10:53:38 2025
    On 14/03/2025 09:34, Andy Burns wrote:
    Scott wrote:

    can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the
    cables to fit the grommet?

    Obviously they're not intended to be snipped, but you see too many
    backboxes without them fitted.

    If you were concerned you could superglue it back together after
    fitting, I doubt the Part P Taliban would behead you for it ...


    The chances are that once fitted you will not be able to see the cut.

    What is the recommendation for plastic surface mount back boxes. When
    knocking out the plastic to feed through a cable the edge of the plastic
    is often knife sharp. As a DIYer I always take a file to the hole to at
    least smooth off the rough razor sharp edge but I've seen videos where
    the professionals just drive through the plastic with any tool that
    comes to hand (screwdriver, handle of pliers etc.) and then just fit the plastic box.

    Obviously a cut wire cannot short out on a plastic box but the sharp
    edge could cut through a couple of layer of insulation if the wires are
    moved, possibly at a later date.

    --
    mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott@21:1/5 to All on Fri Mar 14 11:31:53 2025
    On Fri, 14 Mar 2025 10:53:38 +0000, alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk>
    wrote:

    On 14/03/2025 09:34, Andy Burns wrote:
    Scott wrote:

    can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the
    cables to fit the grommet?

    Obviously they're not intended to be snipped, but you see too many
    backboxes without them fitted.

    If you were concerned you could superglue it back together after
    fitting, I doubt the Part P Taliban would behead you for it ...


    The chances are that once fitted you will not be able to see the cut.

    What is the recommendation for plastic surface mount back boxes. When >knocking out the plastic to feed through a cable the edge of the plastic
    is often knife sharp. As a DIYer I always take a file to the hole to at
    least smooth off the rough razor sharp edge but I've seen videos where
    the professionals just drive through the plastic with any tool that
    comes to hand (screwdriver, handle of pliers etc.) and then just fit the >plastic box.

    Well, I've got 100 of them so I may as well try it and see.

    Obviously a cut wire cannot short out on a plastic box but the sharp
    edge could cut through a couple of layer of insulation if the wires are >moved, possibly at a later date.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From The Natural Philosopher@21:1/5 to All on Fri Mar 14 13:45:51 2025
    On 14/03/2025 10:53, alan_m wrote:
    On 14/03/2025 09:34, Andy Burns wrote:
    Scott wrote:

    can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the
    cables to fit the grommet?

    Obviously they're not intended to be snipped, but you see too many
    backboxes without them fitted.

    If you were concerned you could superglue it back together after
    fitting, I doubt the Part P Taliban would behead you for it ...


    The chances are that once fitted you will not be able to see the cut.

    What is the recommendation for plastic surface mount back boxes. When knocking out the plastic to feed through a cable the edge of the plastic
    is often knife sharp. As a DIYer I always take a file to the hole to at
    least smooth off the rough razor sharp edge but I've seen videos where
    the professionals just drive through the plastic with any tool that
    comes to hand (screwdriver, handle of pliers etc.) and then just fit the plastic box.

    Obviously a cut wire cannot short out on a plastic box but the sharp
    edge could cut through a couple of layer of insulation if the wires are moved, possibly at a later date.

    My experience suggests that house wires *once installed* do not move and
    get sliced. Installation however is quite another matter, T-shirt
    available :-(

    --
    “I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most
    obvious truth if it be such as would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, which
    they have proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their lives.”

    ― Leo Tolstoy

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to Scott on Fri Mar 14 14:03:53 2025
    On 14/03/2025 09:24, Scott wrote:
    On Wed, 12 Mar 2025 11:07:27 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 06/03/2025 12:45, Scott wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:31:00 +0000, Scott
    <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light switch in my >>>> living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO only to >>>> find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen lights'. I >>>> don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were
    bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change
    these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, so is
    there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a red
    wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. Am I
    allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any
    cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    PS. I have googled and there seem to be mixed opinions about sleeving
    (especially for red wires).

    Much depends on context and what scope there is for confusion. Red does
    not appear in the harmonised colours anywhere so there is not much scope
    for it being taken as anything else. So unless you are actually using it
    for some other purpose where it must be over marked, there is little
    added value IMHO.

    Blue (was line, now neutral), Black (was negative, now live) on the
    other hand...

    Thanks. And can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the
    cables to fit the grommet?

    You can cut them, and a cut grommet will be better than none.

    (in fact you can also get grommet strip designed for arbitrary length
    perimeter holes in metal plates etc).

    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From SteveW@21:1/5 to The Natural Philosopher on Fri Mar 14 20:07:02 2025
    On 14/03/2025 13:45, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
    On 14/03/2025 10:53, alan_m wrote:
    On 14/03/2025 09:34, Andy Burns wrote:
    Scott wrote:

    can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the
    cables to fit the grommet?

    Obviously they're not intended to be snipped, but you see too many
    backboxes without them fitted.

    If you were concerned you could superglue it back together after
    fitting, I doubt the Part P Taliban would behead you for it ...


    The chances are that once fitted you will not be able to see the cut.

    What is the recommendation for plastic surface mount back boxes. When
    knocking out the plastic to feed through a cable the edge of the
    plastic is often knife sharp. As a DIYer I always take a file to the
    hole to at least smooth off the rough razor sharp edge but I've seen
    videos where the professionals just drive through the plastic with any
    tool that comes to hand (screwdriver, handle of pliers etc.) and then
    just fit the plastic box.

    Obviously a cut wire cannot short out on a plastic box but the sharp
    edge could cut through a couple of layer of insulation if the wires
    are moved, possibly at a later date.

    My experience suggests that house wires *once installed* do not move and
    get sliced. Installation however is quite another matter, T-shirt
    available :-(

    They certainly don't move if they're plastered into a chase, right up to
    the box.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott@21:1/5 to see.my.signature@nowhere.null on Sat Mar 15 09:33:13 2025
    On Fri, 14 Mar 2025 14:03:53 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 14/03/2025 09:24, Scott wrote:
    On Wed, 12 Mar 2025 11:07:27 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 06/03/2025 12:45, Scott wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:31:00 +0000, Scott
    <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light switch in my >>>>> living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO only to >>>>> find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen lights'. I >>>>> don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were
    bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change
    these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, so is
    there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a red
    wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. Am I
    allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any
    cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    PS. I have googled and there seem to be mixed opinions about sleeving
    (especially for red wires).

    Much depends on context and what scope there is for confusion. Red does
    not appear in the harmonised colours anywhere so there is not much scope >>> for it being taken as anything else. So unless you are actually using it >>> for some other purpose where it must be over marked, there is little
    added value IMHO.

    Blue (was line, now neutral), Black (was negative, now live) on the
    other hand...

    Thanks. And can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the
    cables to fit the grommet?

    You can cut them, and a cut grommet will be better than none.

    (in fact you can also get grommet strip designed for arbitrary length >perimeter holes in metal plates etc).

    Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments.

    The cut grommet fitted perfectly. Would you believe that whoever did
    it before connected the earth wire to the screw that holds the box on
    to the wall instead of the earthing terminal? I moved it but it was a
    tight fit.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to Scott on Sat Mar 15 15:04:48 2025
    On 15/03/2025 09:33, Scott wrote:
    On Fri, 14 Mar 2025 14:03:53 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 14/03/2025 09:24, Scott wrote:
    On Wed, 12 Mar 2025 11:07:27 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 06/03/2025 12:45, Scott wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:31:00 +0000, Scott
    <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light switch in my >>>>>> living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO only to >>>>>> find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen lights'. I >>>>>> don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were
    bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change
    these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, so is >>>>>> there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a red >>>>>> wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. Am I >>>>>> allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any
    cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    PS. I have googled and there seem to be mixed opinions about sleeving >>>>> (especially for red wires).

    Much depends on context and what scope there is for confusion. Red does >>>> not appear in the harmonised colours anywhere so there is not much scope >>>> for it being taken as anything else. So unless you are actually using it >>>> for some other purpose where it must be over marked, there is little
    added value IMHO.

    Blue (was line, now neutral), Black (was negative, now live) on the
    other hand...

    Thanks. And can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the
    cables to fit the grommet?

    You can cut them, and a cut grommet will be better than none.

    (in fact you can also get grommet strip designed for arbitrary length
    perimeter holes in metal plates etc).

    Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments.

    The cut grommet fitted perfectly. Would you believe that whoever did
    it before connected the earth wire to the screw that holds the box on
    to the wall instead of the earthing terminal? I moved it but it was a
    tight fit.

    While best practice would connect earth to the socket, and then have a
    fly lead to the earth terminal on the box, it is acceptable with a metal
    back box to rely on the screws to the socket to join the socket and box
    earth so long as the back box has at least one "fixed" lug.



    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott@21:1/5 to see.my.signature@nowhere.null on Sun Mar 16 17:37:54 2025
    On Sat, 15 Mar 2025 15:04:48 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 15/03/2025 09:33, Scott wrote:
    On Fri, 14 Mar 2025 14:03:53 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 14/03/2025 09:24, Scott wrote:
    On Wed, 12 Mar 2025 11:07:27 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 06/03/2025 12:45, Scott wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:31:00 +0000, Scott
    <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light switch in my >>>>>>> living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO only to >>>>>>> find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen lights'. I >>>>>>> don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were >>>>>>> bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change >>>>>>> these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, so is >>>>>>> there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a red >>>>>>> wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. Am I >>>>>>> allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any >>>>>>> cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    PS. I have googled and there seem to be mixed opinions about sleeving >>>>>> (especially for red wires).

    Much depends on context and what scope there is for confusion. Red does >>>>> not appear in the harmonised colours anywhere so there is not much scope >>>>> for it being taken as anything else. So unless you are actually using it >>>>> for some other purpose where it must be over marked, there is little >>>>> added value IMHO.

    Blue (was line, now neutral), Black (was negative, now live) on the
    other hand...

    Thanks. And can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the
    cables to fit the grommet?

    You can cut them, and a cut grommet will be better than none.

    (in fact you can also get grommet strip designed for arbitrary length
    perimeter holes in metal plates etc).

    Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments.

    The cut grommet fitted perfectly. Would you believe that whoever did
    it before connected the earth wire to the screw that holds the box on
    to the wall instead of the earthing terminal? I moved it but it was a
    tight fit.

    While best practice would connect earth to the socket, and then have a
    fly lead to the earth terminal on the box, it is acceptable with a metal
    back box to rely on the screws to the socket to join the socket and box
    earth so long as the back box has at least one "fixed" lug.

    No, it is a light switch so the screws are connected to the back box
    only. The earth wire is connected to the box using the screw that
    fixes the box to the wall. I'm guessing this is probably okay but I
    would be happier to use the dedicated earthing point where the
    connection seems to be more secure. I have extended the earth wire
    using an in-line connector to allow it to fit.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to Scott on Sun Mar 16 23:38:05 2025
    On 16/03/2025 17:37, Scott wrote:
    On Sat, 15 Mar 2025 15:04:48 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 15/03/2025 09:33, Scott wrote:
    On Fri, 14 Mar 2025 14:03:53 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 14/03/2025 09:24, Scott wrote:
    On Wed, 12 Mar 2025 11:07:27 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 06/03/2025 12:45, Scott wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:31:00 +0000, Scott
    <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light switch in my >>>>>>>> living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO only to >>>>>>>> find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen lights'. I >>>>>>>> don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were >>>>>>>> bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change >>>>>>>> these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, so is >>>>>>>> there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a red >>>>>>>> wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. Am I >>>>>>>> allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any >>>>>>>> cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    PS. I have googled and there seem to be mixed opinions about sleeving >>>>>>> (especially for red wires).

    Much depends on context and what scope there is for confusion. Red does >>>>>> not appear in the harmonised colours anywhere so there is not much scope >>>>>> for it being taken as anything else. So unless you are actually using it >>>>>> for some other purpose where it must be over marked, there is little >>>>>> added value IMHO.

    Blue (was line, now neutral), Black (was negative, now live) on the >>>>>> other hand...

    Thanks. And can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the
    cables to fit the grommet?

    You can cut them, and a cut grommet will be better than none.

    (in fact you can also get grommet strip designed for arbitrary length
    perimeter holes in metal plates etc).

    Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments.

    The cut grommet fitted perfectly. Would you believe that whoever did
    it before connected the earth wire to the screw that holds the box on
    to the wall instead of the earthing terminal? I moved it but it was a
    tight fit.

    While best practice would connect earth to the socket, and then have a
    fly lead to the earth terminal on the box, it is acceptable with a metal
    back box to rely on the screws to the socket to join the socket and box
    earth so long as the back box has at least one "fixed" lug.

    No, it is a light switch so the screws are connected to the back box
    only. The earth wire is connected to the box using the screw that
    fixes the box to the wall. I'm guessing this is probably okay but I

    Many metal boxes have a dedicated terminal (in fact some plastic ones as
    well so there is somewhere to "park" the earth).

    would be happier to use the dedicated earthing point where the
    connection seems to be more secure. I have extended the earth wire
    using an in-line connector to allow it to fit.

    Is it a double insulated (i.e. plastic) light switch?

    (if so, not much to worry about anyway)


    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott@21:1/5 to see.my.signature@nowhere.null on Mon Mar 17 08:49:26 2025
    On Sun, 16 Mar 2025 23:38:05 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 16/03/2025 17:37, Scott wrote:
    On Sat, 15 Mar 2025 15:04:48 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 15/03/2025 09:33, Scott wrote:
    On Fri, 14 Mar 2025 14:03:53 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 14/03/2025 09:24, Scott wrote:
    On Wed, 12 Mar 2025 11:07:27 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 06/03/2025 12:45, Scott wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:31:00 +0000, Scott
    <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light switch in my
    living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO only to
    find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen lights'. I
    don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were >>>>>>>>> bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change >>>>>>>>> these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, so is >>>>>>>>> there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a red >>>>>>>>> wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. Am I >>>>>>>>> allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any >>>>>>>>> cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    PS. I have googled and there seem to be mixed opinions about sleeving >>>>>>>> (especially for red wires).

    Much depends on context and what scope there is for confusion. Red does >>>>>>> not appear in the harmonised colours anywhere so there is not much scope
    for it being taken as anything else. So unless you are actually using it
    for some other purpose where it must be over marked, there is little >>>>>>> added value IMHO.

    Blue (was line, now neutral), Black (was negative, now live) on the >>>>>>> other hand...

    Thanks. And can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the
    cables to fit the grommet?

    You can cut them, and a cut grommet will be better than none.

    (in fact you can also get grommet strip designed for arbitrary length >>>>> perimeter holes in metal plates etc).

    Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments.

    The cut grommet fitted perfectly. Would you believe that whoever did
    it before connected the earth wire to the screw that holds the box on
    to the wall instead of the earthing terminal? I moved it but it was a
    tight fit.

    While best practice would connect earth to the socket, and then have a
    fly lead to the earth terminal on the box, it is acceptable with a metal >>> back box to rely on the screws to the socket to join the socket and box
    earth so long as the back box has at least one "fixed" lug.

    No, it is a light switch so the screws are connected to the back box
    only. The earth wire is connected to the box using the screw that
    fixes the box to the wall. I'm guessing this is probably okay but I

    Many metal boxes have a dedicated terminal (in fact some plastic ones as
    well so there is somewhere to "park" the earth).

    This is the one I intend to use. The problem was that the earth wire
    was too short to reach the terminal comfortably which I assume is why
    it was done the way it was but I have now (effortlessly) extended it
    using an in-line connector.

    would be happier to use the dedicated earthing point where the
    connection seems to be more secure. I have extended the earth wire
    using an in-line connector to allow it to fit.

    Is it a double insulated (i.e. plastic) light switch?

    No, it is made of steel and is. My concern is that the screws could
    become live if the box became live!

    (if so, not much to worry about anyway)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From SteveW@21:1/5 to John Rumm on Mon Mar 17 12:58:49 2025
    On 16/03/2025 23:38, John Rumm wrote:
    On 16/03/2025 17:37, Scott wrote:
    On Sat, 15 Mar 2025 15:04:48 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 15/03/2025 09:33, Scott wrote:
    On Fri, 14 Mar 2025 14:03:53 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 14/03/2025 09:24, Scott wrote:
    On Wed, 12 Mar 2025 11:07:27 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 06/03/2025 12:45, Scott wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:31:00 +0000, Scott
    <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light
    switch in my
    living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO >>>>>>>>> only to
    find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen
    lights'. I
    don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were >>>>>>>>> bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change >>>>>>>>> these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, so is >>>>>>>>> there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a red >>>>>>>>> wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. Am I >>>>>>>>> allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any >>>>>>>>> cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    PS. I have googled and there seem to be mixed opinions about
    sleeving
    (especially for red wires).

    Much depends on context and what scope there is for confusion.
    Red does
    not appear in the harmonised colours anywhere so there is not
    much scope
    for it being taken as anything else. So unless you are actually
    using it
    for some other purpose where it must be over marked, there is little >>>>>>> added value IMHO.

    Blue (was line, now neutral), Black (was negative, now live) on the >>>>>>> other hand...

    Thanks. And can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the
    cables to fit the grommet?

    You can cut them, and a cut grommet will be better than none.

    (in fact you can also get grommet strip designed for arbitrary length >>>>> perimeter holes in metal plates etc).

    Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments.

    The cut grommet fitted perfectly. Would you believe that whoever did
    it before connected the earth wire to the screw that holds the box on
    to the wall instead of the earthing terminal? I moved it but it was a
    tight fit.

    While best practice would connect earth to the socket, and then have a
    fly lead to the earth terminal on the box, it is acceptable with a metal >>> back box to rely on the screws to the socket to join the socket and box
    earth so long as the back box has at least one "fixed" lug.

    No, it is a light switch so the screws are connected to the back box
    only. The earth wire is connected to the box using the screw that
    fixes the box to the wall. I'm guessing this is probably okay but I

    Many metal boxes have a dedicated terminal (in fact some plastic ones as
    well so there is somewhere to "park" the earth).

    would be happier to use the dedicated earthing point where the
    connection seems to be more secure. I have extended the earth wire
    using an in-line connector to allow it to fit.

    Is it a double insulated (i.e. plastic) light switch?

    (if so, not much to worry about anyway)

    A stray live contacting a poorly earthed back box would make the
    (contactable) faceplate screws live - at least in older installations
    where lights don't have RCD protection.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From The Natural Philosopher@21:1/5 to SteveW on Mon Mar 17 17:49:54 2025
    On 17/03/2025 12:58, SteveW wrote:
    On 16/03/2025 23:38, John Rumm wrote:
    On 16/03/2025 17:37, Scott wrote:
    On Sat, 15 Mar 2025 15:04:48 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 15/03/2025 09:33, Scott wrote:
    On Fri, 14 Mar 2025 14:03:53 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 14/03/2025 09:24, Scott wrote:
    On Wed, 12 Mar 2025 11:07:27 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 06/03/2025 12:45, Scott wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:31:00 +0000, Scott
    <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light
    switch in my
    living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO >>>>>>>>>> only to
    find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen >>>>>>>>>> lights'. I
    don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were >>>>>>>>>> bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change >>>>>>>>>> these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, >>>>>>>>>> so is
    there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a >>>>>>>>>> red
    wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. >>>>>>>>>> Am I
    allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any >>>>>>>>>> cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    PS. I have googled and there seem to be mixed opinions about >>>>>>>>> sleeving
    (especially for red wires).

    Much depends on context and what scope there is for confusion. >>>>>>>> Red does
    not appear in the harmonised colours anywhere so there is not
    much scope
    for it being taken as anything else. So unless you are actually >>>>>>>> using it
    for some other purpose where it must be over marked, there is
    little
    added value IMHO.

    Blue (was line, now neutral), Black (was negative, now live) on the >>>>>>>> other hand...

    Thanks. And can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the >>>>>>> cables to fit the grommet?

    You can cut them, and a cut grommet will be better than none.

    (in fact you can also get grommet strip designed for arbitrary length >>>>>> perimeter holes in metal plates etc).

    Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments.

    The cut grommet fitted perfectly. Would you believe that whoever did >>>>> it before connected the earth wire to the screw that holds the box on >>>>> to the wall instead of the earthing terminal? I moved it but it was a >>>>> tight fit.

    While best practice would connect earth to the socket, and then have a >>>> fly lead to the earth terminal on the box, it is acceptable with a
    metal
    back box to rely on the screws to the socket to join the socket and box >>>> earth so long as the back box has at least one "fixed" lug.

    No, it is a light switch so the screws are connected to the back box
    only. The earth wire is connected to the box using the screw that
    fixes the box to the wall. I'm guessing this is probably okay but I

    Many metal boxes have a dedicated terminal (in fact some plastic ones
    as well so there is somewhere to "park" the earth).

    would be happier to use the dedicated earthing point where the
    connection seems to be more secure. I have extended the earth wire
    using an in-line connector to allow it to fit.

    Is it a double insulated (i.e. plastic) light switch?

    (if so, not much to worry about anyway)

    A stray live contacting a poorly earthed back box would make the (contactable) faceplate screws live - at least in older installations
    where lights don't have RCD protection.

    At some previous existence I had a socket like that. The screws gave you
    a tingle.

    --
    Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend. Inside of a dog it's
    too dark to read.

    Groucho Marx

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to Scott on Mon Mar 17 21:15:06 2025
    On 17/03/2025 08:49, Scott wrote:
    On Sun, 16 Mar 2025 23:38:05 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 16/03/2025 17:37, Scott wrote:
    On Sat, 15 Mar 2025 15:04:48 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 15/03/2025 09:33, Scott wrote:
    On Fri, 14 Mar 2025 14:03:53 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 14/03/2025 09:24, Scott wrote:
    On Wed, 12 Mar 2025 11:07:27 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 06/03/2025 12:45, Scott wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:31:00 +0000, Scott
    <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light switch in my
    living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO only to
    find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen lights'. I
    don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were >>>>>>>>>> bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change >>>>>>>>>> these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, so is >>>>>>>>>> there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a red >>>>>>>>>> wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. Am I >>>>>>>>>> allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any >>>>>>>>>> cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    PS. I have googled and there seem to be mixed opinions about sleeving >>>>>>>>> (especially for red wires).

    Much depends on context and what scope there is for confusion. Red does
    not appear in the harmonised colours anywhere so there is not much scope
    for it being taken as anything else. So unless you are actually using it
    for some other purpose where it must be over marked, there is little >>>>>>>> added value IMHO.

    Blue (was line, now neutral), Black (was negative, now live) on the >>>>>>>> other hand...

    Thanks. And can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the >>>>>>> cables to fit the grommet?

    You can cut them, and a cut grommet will be better than none.

    (in fact you can also get grommet strip designed for arbitrary length >>>>>> perimeter holes in metal plates etc).

    Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments.

    The cut grommet fitted perfectly. Would you believe that whoever did >>>>> it before connected the earth wire to the screw that holds the box on >>>>> to the wall instead of the earthing terminal? I moved it but it was a >>>>> tight fit.

    While best practice would connect earth to the socket, and then have a >>>> fly lead to the earth terminal on the box, it is acceptable with a metal >>>> back box to rely on the screws to the socket to join the socket and box >>>> earth so long as the back box has at least one "fixed" lug.

    No, it is a light switch so the screws are connected to the back box
    only. The earth wire is connected to the box using the screw that
    fixes the box to the wall. I'm guessing this is probably okay but I

    Many metal boxes have a dedicated terminal (in fact some plastic ones as
    well so there is somewhere to "park" the earth).

    This is the one I intend to use. The problem was that the earth wire
    was too short to reach the terminal comfortably which I assume is why
    it was done the way it was but I have now (effortlessly) extended it
    using an in-line connector.

    would be happier to use the dedicated earthing point where the
    connection seems to be more secure. I have extended the earth wire
    using an in-line connector to allow it to fit.

    Is it a double insulated (i.e. plastic) light switch?

    No, it is made of steel and is. My concern is that the screws could
    become live if the box became live!

    Steel is not a guarantee that it is class I - some are class II. (having
    an earth terminal on the switch would be a clue though!). It should be
    marked to indicate if it is class II (double insulated).

    If it is class one, then the screw holes would normally pass through an
    earthed bit or metalwork.




    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott@21:1/5 to see.my.signature@nowhere.null on Mon Mar 17 21:32:42 2025
    On Mon, 17 Mar 2025 21:15:06 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 17/03/2025 08:49, Scott wrote:
    On Sun, 16 Mar 2025 23:38:05 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 16/03/2025 17:37, Scott wrote:
    On Sat, 15 Mar 2025 15:04:48 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 15/03/2025 09:33, Scott wrote:
    On Fri, 14 Mar 2025 14:03:53 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 14/03/2025 09:24, Scott wrote:
    On Wed, 12 Mar 2025 11:07:27 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 06/03/2025 12:45, Scott wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:31:00 +0000, Scott
    <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light switch in my
    living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO only to
    find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen lights'. I
    don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were >>>>>>>>>>> bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change >>>>>>>>>>> these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, so is >>>>>>>>>>> there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a red >>>>>>>>>>> wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. Am I >>>>>>>>>>> allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any >>>>>>>>>>> cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    PS. I have googled and there seem to be mixed opinions about sleeving
    (especially for red wires).

    Much depends on context and what scope there is for confusion. Red does
    not appear in the harmonised colours anywhere so there is not much scope
    for it being taken as anything else. So unless you are actually using it
    for some other purpose where it must be over marked, there is little >>>>>>>>> added value IMHO.

    Blue (was line, now neutral), Black (was negative, now live) on the >>>>>>>>> other hand...

    Thanks. And can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the >>>>>>>> cables to fit the grommet?

    You can cut them, and a cut grommet will be better than none.

    (in fact you can also get grommet strip designed for arbitrary length >>>>>>> perimeter holes in metal plates etc).

    Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments.

    The cut grommet fitted perfectly. Would you believe that whoever did >>>>>> it before connected the earth wire to the screw that holds the box on >>>>>> to the wall instead of the earthing terminal? I moved it but it was a >>>>>> tight fit.

    While best practice would connect earth to the socket, and then have a >>>>> fly lead to the earth terminal on the box, it is acceptable with a metal >>>>> back box to rely on the screws to the socket to join the socket and box >>>>> earth so long as the back box has at least one "fixed" lug.

    No, it is a light switch so the screws are connected to the back box
    only. The earth wire is connected to the box using the screw that
    fixes the box to the wall. I'm guessing this is probably okay but I

    Many metal boxes have a dedicated terminal (in fact some plastic ones as >>> well so there is somewhere to "park" the earth).

    This is the one I intend to use. The problem was that the earth wire
    was too short to reach the terminal comfortably which I assume is why
    it was done the way it was but I have now (effortlessly) extended it
    using an in-line connector.

    would be happier to use the dedicated earthing point where the
    connection seems to be more secure. I have extended the earth wire
    using an in-line connector to allow it to fit.

    Is it a double insulated (i.e. plastic) light switch?

    No, it is made of steel and is. My concern is that the screws could
    become live if the box became live!

    Steel is not a guarantee that it is class I - some are class II. (having
    an earth terminal on the switch would be a clue though!). It should be
    marked to indicate if it is class II (double insulated).

    If it is class one, then the screw holes would normally pass through an >earthed bit or metalwork.

    The switch is MK plastic with no provision for an earth. The back box
    is steel and the earth wire was connected to the screw that attaches
    the back box to the wall instead of the dedicated earthing terminal
    (because the earth wire was too short). I have now extended the earth
    wire using an in-line connector and attached it to the earthing
    terminal. I assume - and hope - this is now okay.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to Scott on Mon Mar 17 22:56:46 2025
    On 17/03/2025 21:32, Scott wrote:
    On Mon, 17 Mar 2025 21:15:06 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 17/03/2025 08:49, Scott wrote:
    On Sun, 16 Mar 2025 23:38:05 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 16/03/2025 17:37, Scott wrote:
    On Sat, 15 Mar 2025 15:04:48 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 15/03/2025 09:33, Scott wrote:
    On Fri, 14 Mar 2025 14:03:53 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 14/03/2025 09:24, Scott wrote:
    On Wed, 12 Mar 2025 11:07:27 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 06/03/2025 12:45, Scott wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:31:00 +0000, Scott
    <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light switch in my
    living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO only to
    find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen lights'. I
    don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were >>>>>>>>>>>> bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change >>>>>>>>>>>> these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, so is >>>>>>>>>>>> there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a red >>>>>>>>>>>> wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. Am I >>>>>>>>>>>> allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any >>>>>>>>>>>> cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    PS. I have googled and there seem to be mixed opinions about sleeving
    (especially for red wires).

    Much depends on context and what scope there is for confusion. Red does
    not appear in the harmonised colours anywhere so there is not much scope
    for it being taken as anything else. So unless you are actually using it
    for some other purpose where it must be over marked, there is little >>>>>>>>>> added value IMHO.

    Blue (was line, now neutral), Black (was negative, now live) on the >>>>>>>>>> other hand...

    Thanks. And can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now
    discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the >>>>>>>>> cables to fit the grommet?

    You can cut them, and a cut grommet will be better than none.

    (in fact you can also get grommet strip designed for arbitrary length >>>>>>>> perimeter holes in metal plates etc).

    Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments.

    The cut grommet fitted perfectly. Would you believe that whoever did >>>>>>> it before connected the earth wire to the screw that holds the box on >>>>>>> to the wall instead of the earthing terminal? I moved it but it was a >>>>>>> tight fit.

    While best practice would connect earth to the socket, and then have a >>>>>> fly lead to the earth terminal on the box, it is acceptable with a metal >>>>>> back box to rely on the screws to the socket to join the socket and box >>>>>> earth so long as the back box has at least one "fixed" lug.

    No, it is a light switch so the screws are connected to the back box >>>>> only. The earth wire is connected to the box using the screw that
    fixes the box to the wall. I'm guessing this is probably okay but I

    Many metal boxes have a dedicated terminal (in fact some plastic ones as >>>> well so there is somewhere to "park" the earth).

    This is the one I intend to use. The problem was that the earth wire
    was too short to reach the terminal comfortably which I assume is why
    it was done the way it was but I have now (effortlessly) extended it
    using an in-line connector.

    would be happier to use the dedicated earthing point where the
    connection seems to be more secure. I have extended the earth wire
    using an in-line connector to allow it to fit.

    Is it a double insulated (i.e. plastic) light switch?

    No, it is made of steel and is. My concern is that the screws could
    become live if the box became live!

    So you are just referring to the box there and not the switch?

    Steel is not a guarantee that it is class I - some are class II. (having
    an earth terminal on the switch would be a clue though!). It should be
    marked to indicate if it is class II (double insulated).

    If it is class one, then the screw holes would normally pass through an
    earthed bit or metalwork.

    The switch is MK plastic with no provision for an earth. The back box
    is steel and the earth wire was connected to the screw that attaches
    the back box to the wall instead of the dedicated earthing terminal
    (because the earth wire was too short). I have now extended the earth
    wire using an in-line connector and attached it to the earthing
    terminal. I assume - and hope - this is now okay.

    Yup that is ok.



    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott@21:1/5 to see.my.signature@nowhere.null on Tue Mar 18 09:56:47 2025
    On Mon, 17 Mar 2025 22:56:46 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 17/03/2025 21:32, Scott wrote:
    On Mon, 17 Mar 2025 21:15:06 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 17/03/2025 08:49, Scott wrote:
    On Sun, 16 Mar 2025 23:38:05 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 16/03/2025 17:37, Scott wrote:
    On Sat, 15 Mar 2025 15:04:48 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 15/03/2025 09:33, Scott wrote:
    On Fri, 14 Mar 2025 14:03:53 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 14/03/2025 09:24, Scott wrote:
    On Wed, 12 Mar 2025 11:07:27 +0000, John Rumm
    <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:

    On 06/03/2025 12:45, Scott wrote:
    On Thu, 06 Mar 2025 12:31:00 +0000, Scott
    <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    I wanted to swap round the two switches of a double light switch in my
    living room. First I switched off the 'downstairs lights' RCBO only to
    find (on checking) that the lounge is connected to 'kitchen lights'. I
    don't think I'll trust these RCBOs again :-)

    I reversed the cables at the the top. As the two COM inputs were >>>>>>>>>>>>> bridged with a (red) cable, I decided there was no need to change >>>>>>>>>>>>> these. I assume this is okay so far. All the cables are red, so is
    there any need to add brown sleeving when it is obvious what a red
    wire means in a 'mixed wiring' situation? There is no gromet. Am I
    allowed to cut a gromet to install this without disconnecting any >>>>>>>>>>>>> cables or is this regarded as bad practice?

    PS. I have googled and there seem to be mixed opinions about sleeving
    (especially for red wires).

    Much depends on context and what scope there is for confusion. Red does
    not appear in the harmonised colours anywhere so there is not much scope
    for it being taken as anything else. So unless you are actually using it
    for some other purpose where it must be over marked, there is little
    added value IMHO.

    Blue (was line, now neutral), Black (was negative, now live) on the >>>>>>>>>>> other hand...

    Thanks. And can I cut the grommet (not gromet as I have now >>>>>>>>>> discovered) to retrofit or it it best practice to disconnect the >>>>>>>>>> cables to fit the grommet?

    You can cut them, and a cut grommet will be better than none. >>>>>>>>>
    (in fact you can also get grommet strip designed for arbitrary length >>>>>>>>> perimeter holes in metal plates etc).

    Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments.

    The cut grommet fitted perfectly. Would you believe that whoever did >>>>>>>> it before connected the earth wire to the screw that holds the box on >>>>>>>> to the wall instead of the earthing terminal? I moved it but it was a >>>>>>>> tight fit.

    While best practice would connect earth to the socket, and then have a >>>>>>> fly lead to the earth terminal on the box, it is acceptable with a metal
    back box to rely on the screws to the socket to join the socket and box >>>>>>> earth so long as the back box has at least one "fixed" lug.

    No, it is a light switch so the screws are connected to the back box >>>>>> only. The earth wire is connected to the box using the screw that
    fixes the box to the wall. I'm guessing this is probably okay but I >>>>>
    Many metal boxes have a dedicated terminal (in fact some plastic ones as >>>>> well so there is somewhere to "park" the earth).

    This is the one I intend to use. The problem was that the earth wire
    was too short to reach the terminal comfortably which I assume is why
    it was done the way it was but I have now (effortlessly) extended it
    using an in-line connector.

    would be happier to use the dedicated earthing point where the
    connection seems to be more secure. I have extended the earth wire >>>>>> using an in-line connector to allow it to fit.

    Is it a double insulated (i.e. plastic) light switch?

    No, it is made of steel and is. My concern is that the screws could
    become live if the box became live!

    So you are just referring to the box there and not the switch?

    Too many late night postings by me! The switch is non conductive. The
    box is behind but the screws are attached to the box so I understood
    they required to be earthed.

    At my last place if you touched a screw, you would get a mini shock. I
    assumed this was static from the carpet going to earth but maybe we
    should have checked the earth at the time.

    Steel is not a guarantee that it is class I - some are class II. (having >>> an earth terminal on the switch would be a clue though!). It should be
    marked to indicate if it is class II (double insulated).

    If it is class one, then the screw holes would normally pass through an
    earthed bit or metalwork.

    The switch is MK plastic with no provision for an earth. The back box
    is steel and the earth wire was connected to the screw that attaches
    the back box to the wall instead of the dedicated earthing terminal
    (because the earth wire was too short). I have now extended the earth
    wire using an in-line connector and attached it to the earthing
    terminal. I assume - and hope - this is now okay.

    Yup that is ok.

    Thanks. I have now found a worse one but I think my friend who is a
    (retired) electrical engineer could be persuaded by a curry to look at
    it!

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