• Re: Waterproof cement drying time?

    From Tricky Dicky@21:1/5 to David Paste on Sun Apr 6 13:02:36 2025
    David Paste <pastedavid@gmail.com> wrote:
    Hello,

    A bit of a long question, sorry, but I am almost completely ignorant of
    this topic.

    I have recently been on what is appearing to be a half-cocked job to
    stop leaks in a tanked cellar.

    During heavy rain when the ground water level rises, there would be
    water ingress. Much misery. Most of the problems have been sorted, but
    there are two repairs which seem a bit suspect to me.

    I chipped out the old cement which seemed to be little more than sand,
    and dug out a bit of what was behind it. The holes are about 4 inches in diameter, and 4 inches deep for one, 6 inches for the other.

    I cleaned the cement with acid and rinsed properly, the surfaces were
    clean. Then I brushed on some SBR. I made up the repair mortar with SBR following the instructions on the container.

    There were five repairs in total. Three have dried fine and since shown
    that they are waterproof.

    The other two seem to be having trouble actually drying out but do not
    let any water through, there is no puddling of water.

    I ran a fan (not heated) over the repairs and after twenty minutes or so
    they appeared dry but a few hours later the dark wet-look was back.

    I will link to two photo's demonstrating this on the deeper of the
    repairs (hosted on google photo's 1920 x 1080 in size, no adverts that I
    know of, if any are seen they will have been automatically inserted by google):

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/eKsMBb2T9aruCvk4A

    This shows the damp looking patch but the surrounding mortar looking dry.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/d9czDorHDq6NLEmR9

    This shows the dryer look after a few minutes of fanning with unheated
    air. The dark line around it is, I presume the SBR seam as it appears to
    be the same colour as other areas of the cellar I have painted SBR on.

    Please don't be too envious of my excellent cement smoothing skills.

    On both photo's the larger darker arch above the mortar is dries SBR and
    not damp.

    The damp looking patches don't feel damp, or at least they don't feel
    damp *to me*, but the lingering wet look makes me wonder.

    So is this something which will need to be re-done, or can I paint over
    it with floor paint? I am not particularly concerned about the looks of
    it, I just don't want to paint it and then the damp causes something to
    fail in future.

    Thanks in advance for any info or advice.


    Cement “sets” by a chemical reaction not by drying out. Concrete for instance will set under water, it might not achieve the strongest bond but
    will set.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RJH@21:1/5 to David Paste on Mon Apr 7 03:51:54 2025
    On 6 Apr 2025 at 21:40:35 BST, David Paste wrote:

    On 06/04/2025 14:02, Tricky Dicky wrote:

    Cement “sets” by a chemical reaction not by drying out. Concrete for
    instance will set under water, it might not achieve the strongest bond but >> will set.

    Thanks, yeah, I am aware of that but will it prevent moisture passing through,

    IIUC, even when cured completely it's unlikely to be an effective 'tank'. It depends on the pressure behind the cement render, but overall, moisture will try to push through at the point of least resistance. That may (or may not) be the cement. I can't see an inch or so of anything being that effective in a cellar - moisture will push through at some point, either through the material or at a join.

    I'm thinking of something similar in my own cellar along the lines of this
    sort of thing:

    https://a1dampproofingsupplies.co.uk/product/basement-tanking-kit-double-pump-fully-auto-4m-x-5m


    and how long should it take to cure?

    I'd give it a week or so, at a guess.

    --
    Cheers, Rob, Sheffield UK

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From The Natural Philosopher@21:1/5 to RJH on Mon Apr 7 11:49:14 2025
    On 07/04/2025 04:51, RJH wrote:
    On 6 Apr 2025 at 21:40:35 BST, David Paste wrote:

    On 06/04/2025 14:02, Tricky Dicky wrote:

    Cement “sets” by a chemical reaction not by drying out. Concrete for >>> instance will set under water, it might not achieve the strongest bond but >>> will set.

    Thanks, yeah, I am aware of that but will it prevent moisture passing
    through,

    IIUC, even when cured completely it's unlikely to be an effective 'tank'. It depends on the pressure behind the cement render, but overall, moisture will try to push through at the point of least resistance. That may (or may not) be
    the cement. I can't see an inch or so of anything being that effective in a cellar - moisture will push through at some point, either through the material
    or at a join.

    The ability of concrete to resist water is dependent on theamount of
    cement in the mix.
    water will not penetrate 100% cement or stone but will penetrate 100% sand.

    The key is enough cement to fully fill the interstices between sand grains

    That is why concrtete ships worls, and concrete swimming pools do not
    leak...


    and how long should it take to cure?


    Months to fully cure, but for workably hard in spring 24 hours



    --
    “Some people like to travel by train because it combines the slowness of
    a car with the cramped public exposure of 
an airplane.”

    Dennis Miller

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RJH@21:1/5 to David Paste on Tue Apr 8 07:04:06 2025
    On 7 Apr 2025 at 22:22:31 BST, David Paste wrote:

    On 07/04/2025 04:51, RJH wrote:

    IIUC, even when cured completely it's unlikely to be an effective 'tank'. It >> depends on the pressure behind the cement render, but overall, moisture will >> try to push through at the point of least resistance. That may (or may not) be
    the cement. I can't see an inch or so of anything being that effective in a >> cellar - moisture will push through at some point, either through the material
    or at a join.

    Cheers. The reason I started this was because the thickness was less
    than an inch in a few places, so I replaced it with more, about 3 to 4 inches.

    Ah OK, good luck.

    Depending on what you're after, I suspect proper tanking and a drain/pump
    might be on the cards. A mate has very neatly 'sealed' his cellar with a combination of a waterproof rendered floor and membrane on the walls. Looks good but the damp smell down there is overwhelming. It's not well ventilated, but even so . . .

    --
    Cheers, Rob, Sheffield UK

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RJH@21:1/5 to David Paste on Fri Apr 11 11:41:55 2025
    On 7 Apr 2025 at 22:28:16 BST, David Paste wrote:

    On 07/04/2025 11:49, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

    The ability of concrete to resist water is dependent on theamount of
    cement in the mix.
    water will not penetrate 100% cement or stone but will penetrate 100% sand. >>
    The key is enough cement to fully fill the interstices between sand grains

    Thanks. The SBR container advised 4:1 sand to cement. I have been told
    this is "normal" for mortar in a brick wall, but now I am thinking that
    it might not be good enough for my use, even with the SBR.

    Frustratingly, in another area, I mixed up 4:1 and added PVA from advice
    on a youtube video by a swiming pool repairer - I have since learned
    that SBR is preferred because once it dries it won't remoisten whereas
    PVA does, but the PVA mix has worked an absolute treat.


    That is why concrtete ships worls

    There's a few of them abandoned on a bit of the ship cannal near here.

    Sort of related, interesting programme on R4 at the moment on concrete. Adding oxblood good for waterproofing apparently, if you've any handy . . .

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)