• Re: How to remove knockouts from this junction box?

    From Andy Burns@21:1/5 to Chris Green on Thu Apr 17 13:00:15 2025
    Chris Green wrote:

    I have just got one of these:-

    https://www.toolstation.com/ip66-junction-box/p47979

    ... and no way can I knock the knockouts out. I know this is often
    difficult but this one is ridiculous. The trouble is that one really
    needs to get the knockouts properly out as otherwise the cable glands
    don't screw right in.

    I tried screwing a cable gland in to push the knockout but that just threatened to strip the thread on the box before pushing it out.

    Am I missing some obvious technique?
    I realise that's not a steel box, and you've only got one to do, but I
    think what would be in most spark's toolbags would be one of these

    <https://fusebox.shop/products/ssh020>

    flared to stop it punching right through.

    they do a 25mm version if that's the size knockouts you want to use

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Chris Green@21:1/5 to All on Thu Apr 17 12:44:23 2025
    I have just got one of these:-

    https://www.toolstation.com/ip66-junction-box/p47979

    ... and no way can I knock the knockouts out. I know this is often
    difficult but this one is ridiculous. The trouble is that one really
    needs to get the knockouts properly out as otherwise the cable glands
    don't screw right in.

    I tried screwing a cable gland in to push the knockout but that just
    threatened to strip the thread on the box before pushing it out.

    Am I missing some obvious technique?

    --
    Chris Green
    ·

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Chris Green@21:1/5 to Andy Burns on Thu Apr 17 14:14:29 2025
    Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk> wrote:
    Chris Green wrote:

    I have just got one of these:-

    https://www.toolstation.com/ip66-junction-box/p47979

    ... and no way can I knock the knockouts out. I know this is often difficult but this one is ridiculous. The trouble is that one really
    needs to get the knockouts properly out as otherwise the cable glands
    don't screw right in.

    I tried screwing a cable gland in to push the knockout but that just threatened to strip the thread on the box before pushing it out.

    Am I missing some obvious technique?
    I realise that's not a steel box, and you've only got one to do, but I
    think what would be in most spark's toolbags would be one of these

    <https://fusebox.shop/products/ssh020>

    flared to stop it punching right through.

    they do a 25mm version if that's the size knockouts you want to use

    That's no use because it will destroy the M20 thread before it even
    reaches the knockout.

    It would be fine for simply making 20mm holes in the flat sides of a
    box without threaded holes.

    --
    Chris Green
    ·

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Theo@21:1/5 to Chris Green on Thu Apr 17 14:54:02 2025
    Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:
    I have just got one of these:-

    https://www.toolstation.com/ip66-junction-box/p47979

    ... and no way can I knock the knockouts out. I know this is often
    difficult but this one is ridiculous. The trouble is that one really
    needs to get the knockouts properly out as otherwise the cable glands
    don't screw right in.

    I see that's made by CED. I stopped buying Toolstation's CED socket boxes because the plastic was so crudely made that the knockouts on the same box
    went from being paper thin to being super thick and impossible to push out,
    or when you pushed out you'd shatter half the box.

    However those are thermoset plastic and your box is ABS. But perhaps they share the same lack of quality control.

    I'd guess the plastic is overly thick and needs to be weakened in some way. Knife, drill?

    Theo

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Fredxx@21:1/5 to Chris Green on Thu Apr 17 14:55:01 2025
    On 17/04/2025 12:44, Chris Green wrote:
    I have just got one of these:-

    https://www.toolstation.com/ip66-junction-box/p47979

    ... and no way can I knock the knockouts out. I know this is often
    difficult but this one is ridiculous. The trouble is that one really
    needs to get the knockouts properly out as otherwise the cable glands
    don't screw right in.

    I tried screwing a cable gland in to push the knockout but that just threatened to strip the thread on the box before pushing it out.

    Am I missing some obvious technique?

    If this is M20 x 1.5 then a clearance drill of 18.5mm should turn inside
    the threads.

    What's wrong with a hammer and screwdriver on the knockout?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Chris Green@21:1/5 to Theo on Thu Apr 17 15:13:31 2025
    Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:
    Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:
    I have just got one of these:-

    https://www.toolstation.com/ip66-junction-box/p47979

    ... and no way can I knock the knockouts out. I know this is often difficult but this one is ridiculous. The trouble is that one really
    needs to get the knockouts properly out as otherwise the cable glands
    don't screw right in.

    I see that's made by CED. I stopped buying Toolstation's CED socket boxes because the plastic was so crudely made that the knockouts on the same box went from being paper thin to being super thick and impossible to push out, or when you pushed out you'd shatter half the box.

    However those are thermoset plastic and your box is ABS. But perhaps they share the same lack of quality control.

    It says it's ABS but I don't think it is, it doesn't glue with the
    sort of glue that normally welds ABS.


    I'd guess the plastic is overly thick and needs to be weakened in some way. Knife, drill?

    Theo

    --
    Chris Green
    ·

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Chris Green@21:1/5 to Fredxx on Thu Apr 17 15:12:00 2025
    Fredxx <fredxx@spam.invalid> wrote:
    On 17/04/2025 12:44, Chris Green wrote:
    I have just got one of these:-

    https://www.toolstation.com/ip66-junction-box/p47979

    ... and no way can I knock the knockouts out. I know this is often difficult but this one is ridiculous. The trouble is that one really
    needs to get the knockouts properly out as otherwise the cable glands
    don't screw right in.

    I tried screwing a cable gland in to push the knockout but that just threatened to strip the thread on the box before pushing it out.

    Am I missing some obvious technique?

    If this is M20 x 1.5 then a clearance drill of 18.5mm should turn inside
    the threads.

    This will leave a 'not knocked out' rim that I suspect will still
    prevent the cable gland going in.


    What's wrong with a hammer and screwdriver on the knockout?

    That did sort of work. I originally tried a hammer with a socket (as
    in socket spanner) that fitted the hole fairly neatly but that just
    broke the box. Using a screwdriver did at least punch through without destroying the box, it didn't punch cleanly though, it left several
    jagged bits of plastic which had to be individually knocked off.

    I think I'll steer clear of these boxes from now on!

    --
    Chris Green
    ·

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Fredxx@21:1/5 to Chris Green on Thu Apr 17 15:39:07 2025
    On 17/04/2025 15:12, Chris Green wrote:
    Fredxx <fredxx@spam.invalid> wrote:
    On 17/04/2025 12:44, Chris Green wrote:
    I have just got one of these:-

    https://www.toolstation.com/ip66-junction-box/p47979

    ... and no way can I knock the knockouts out. I know this is often
    difficult but this one is ridiculous. The trouble is that one really
    needs to get the knockouts properly out as otherwise the cable glands
    don't screw right in.

    I tried screwing a cable gland in to push the knockout but that just
    threatened to strip the thread on the box before pushing it out.

    Am I missing some obvious technique?

    If this is M20 x 1.5 then a clearance drill of 18.5mm should turn inside
    the threads.

    This will leave a 'not knocked out' rim that I suspect will still
    prevent the cable gland going in.

    I have a M20 x 1.25 tap. Necessary if you want to fit conduit to old
    imperial conduit boxes etc using 3/4" threads.

    I'm sure the rim would yield to a cable gland or similar. Or make your
    own tap using steel conduit with several cuts in the thread to cut new
    in the plastic.

    What's wrong with a hammer and screwdriver on the knockout?

    That did sort of work. I originally tried a hammer with a socket (as
    in socket spanner) that fitted the hole fairly neatly but that just
    broke the box. Using a screwdriver did at least punch through without destroying the box, it didn't punch cleanly though, it left several
    jagged bits of plastic which had to be individually knocked off.

    I think I'll steer clear of these boxes from now on!

    The other alternative is to drill a 20mm hole and use the nut that comes
    with the gland for fixing.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From fred@21:1/5 to Chris Green on Thu Apr 17 17:26:25 2025
    Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote in news:gqe7dl-n0a3.ln1@q957.zbmc.eu:

    Fredxx <fredxx@spam.invalid> wrote:

    This will leave a 'not knocked out' rim that I suspect will still
    prevent the cable gland going in.


    What's wrong with a hammer and screwdriver on the knockout?

    That did sort of work. I originally tried a hammer with a socket (as
    in socket spanner) that fitted the hole fairly neatly but that just
    broke the box. Using a screwdriver did at least punch through without destroying the box, it didn't punch cleanly though, it left several
    jagged bits of plastic which had to be individually knocked off.


    In a similar boat<nopun> I used an oscillating multitool to slice the end
    off from the inside. It was quite neat.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Tricky Dicky@21:1/5 to fred on Thu Apr 17 22:50:37 2025
    fred <not@for.mail> wrote:
    Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote in news:gqe7dl-n0a3.ln1@q957.zbmc.eu:

    Fredxx <fredxx@spam.invalid> wrote:

    This will leave a 'not knocked out' rim that I suspect will still
    prevent the cable gland going in.


    What's wrong with a hammer and screwdriver on the knockout?

    That did sort of work. I originally tried a hammer with a socket (as
    in socket spanner) that fitted the hole fairly neatly but that just
    broke the box. Using a screwdriver did at least punch through without
    destroying the box, it didn't punch cleanly though, it left several
    jagged bits of plastic which had to be individually knocked off.


    In a similar boat<nopun> I used an oscillating multitool to slice the end
    off from the inside. It was quite neat.


    I gave up on cheap boxes and it’s a Wiska box evert time now

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Chris Green@21:1/5 to Dicky on Fri Apr 18 09:15:29 2025
    Tricky Dicky <tricky.dicky@sky.com> wrote:
    fred <not@for.mail> wrote:
    Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote in news:gqe7dl-n0a3.ln1@q957.zbmc.eu:

    Fredxx <fredxx@spam.invalid> wrote:

    This will leave a 'not knocked out' rim that I suspect will still
    prevent the cable gland going in.


    What's wrong with a hammer and screwdriver on the knockout?

    That did sort of work. I originally tried a hammer with a socket (as
    in socket spanner) that fitted the hole fairly neatly but that just
    broke the box. Using a screwdriver did at least punch through without
    destroying the box, it didn't punch cleanly though, it left several
    jagged bits of plastic which had to be individually knocked off.


    In a similar boat<nopun> I used an oscillating multitool to slice the end off from the inside. It was quite neat.


    I gave up on cheap boxes and it’s a Wiska box evert time now

    OP here, I've ordered a Wiska box and some of their spring clip
    connectors to connect to the SWA sheath. The Wiska boxes themselves
    aren't particularly expensive IMHO.

    --
    Chris Green
    ·

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From alan_m@21:1/5 to Tricky Dicky on Fri Apr 18 09:38:48 2025
    On 17/04/2025 23:50, Tricky Dicky wrote:
    fred <not@for.mail> wrote:
    Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote in news:gqe7dl-n0a3.ln1@q957.zbmc.eu:

    Fredxx <fredxx@spam.invalid> wrote:

    This will leave a 'not knocked out' rim that I suspect will still
    prevent the cable gland going in.


    What's wrong with a hammer and screwdriver on the knockout?

    That did sort of work. I originally tried a hammer with a socket (as
    in socket spanner) that fitted the hole fairly neatly but that just
    broke the box. Using a screwdriver did at least punch through without
    destroying the box, it didn't punch cleanly though, it left several
    jagged bits of plastic which had to be individually knocked off.


    In a similar boat<nopun> I used an oscillating multitool to slice the end
    off from the inside. It was quite neat.


    I gave up on cheap boxes and it’s a Wiska box evert time now


    +1

    The reviews for this box indicate it has more problems than the non
    yielding knock out. The cover may not lock and some express the view
    that it's unlikely to be IP66 compliment due to the sub-standard
    manufacture.

    --
    mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From fred@21:1/5 to junk@admac.myzen.co.uk on Fri Apr 18 09:08:25 2025
    alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk> wrote in
    news:m6ehcnFk04qU1@mid.individual.net:

    On 17/04/2025 23:50, Tricky Dicky wrote:


    I gave up on cheap boxes and it’s a Wiska box evert time now


    +1

    The reviews for this box indicate it has more problems than the non
    yielding knock out. The cover may not lock and some express the view
    that it's unlikely to be IP66 compliment due to the sub-standard
    manufacture.


    I don't do a lot of outdoor electrics but I always add a 2mm drain hole in
    the bottom of any enclosure just in case the waterproofing fails.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Theo@21:1/5 to Chris Green on Fri Apr 18 11:21:27 2025
    Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:
    Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:
    Chris Green <cl@isbd.net> wrote:
    I have just got one of these:-

    https://www.toolstation.com/ip66-junction-box/p47979

    ... and no way can I knock the knockouts out. I know this is often difficult but this one is ridiculous. The trouble is that one really needs to get the knockouts properly out as otherwise the cable glands don't screw right in.

    I see that's made by CED. I stopped buying Toolstation's CED socket boxes because the plastic was so crudely made that the knockouts on the same box went from being paper thin to being super thick and impossible to push out, or when you pushed out you'd shatter half the box.

    However those are thermoset plastic and your box is ABS. But perhaps they share the same lack of quality control.

    It says it's ABS but I don't think it is, it doesn't glue with the
    sort of glue that normally welds ABS.

    Maybe it's thermoset plastic as on their indoor boxes then, and they're
    lying about it being ABS? ABS you should be able to cut with a blade but thermoset is more likely to shatter.

    Another negative point for CED, I bought some light switches and a socket.
    For the socket, the earth part of the socket bent away from the backplate
    when a plug was inserted. For a switch, I installed one fresh out of the packet but it didn't click and didn't close the circuit. I took it apart
    and found the spring mechanism wasn't correctly seated, and had never been correctly installed at the factory. I concluded CED is garbage and junked
    the rest unopened.

    Theo

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