• Re: Wiska box, not much better than the Toolstation on, how should one

    From Chris Green@21:1/5 to Andy Burns on Sun Apr 20 14:51:22 2025
    Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk> wrote:
    Chris Green wrote:

    It would be much easier to
    terminate the cables first and then fix them into the box with a nut.
    I think maybe I'll have to do this, but see below.

    Then on to the Wiska 'Earthing Springs':-

    Would a Wiska Piranha nut work?

    Yes, probably, but I think the 'Essentials' nuts from Screwfix would
    actually be better:-

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/essentials-earthing-nuts-20mm-2-pack/77809

    As several comments say, they are expensive, but they solve most of
    the problems connecting SWA into a box. I hope the screws aren't
    steel!!

    --
    Chris Green
    ·

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Andy Burns@21:1/5 to Chris Green on Sun Apr 20 14:27:14 2025
    Chris Green wrote:

    It would be much easier to
    terminate the cables first and then fix them into the box with a nut.
    I think maybe I'll have to do this, but see below.

    Then on to the Wiska 'Earthing Springs':-

    Would a Wiska Piranha nut work?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to Chris Green on Sun Apr 20 23:36:52 2025
    On 20/04/2025 14:00, Chris Green wrote:
    This continues from the "How to remove knockouts....." thread. I'm
    beginning to think I must be incompetant or something but I've never
    had so much trouble before with a relatively simple requirement.

    I now have a Wiska outdoor box and their spring earth clips.

    The knockouts work! That's one improvement on the Toolstation box.
    Simply screwing a gland into a hole in the box pushes the knockout
    out, so that's one hurdle overcome.

    ok good start...

    However, it's all downhill from here on.

    This is a replacement box, the old one got damaged, so the wires are
    already in place and can't be moved much as they disappear into the
    ground. So this produces problem one, you have to remove the gland
    from the SWA, screw the gland into the box and then re-do the SWA
    clamping into the gland. It's possible but it's not easy, I'm just
    glad the weather is reasonably warm. It would be much easier to
    terminate the cables first and then fix them into the box with a nut.
    I think maybe I'll have to do this, but see below.

    Then on to the Wiska 'Earthing Springs':-

    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WKESPR20.html

    It sounds a wonderful idea but it doesn't really work. With standard
    M20 glands there really isn't enough thread exposed to clip the spring
    on, it's also well-nigh impossible to actually do it because squeezing
    the eylets doesn't open the spring enough to clip on, it opens on the
    skew and just doesn't work. If there was a lot of thread exposed it
    might be possible but in reality it doesn't. I'm also not at all
    convinced about the long-term security of such a connection, I don't
    think I want to rely on it.

    Not tried those so can't comment.

    So, back to square one, how to replace an outdoor connection box with
    three M20 SWA glands into it? I think I need to go back to a plain
    box without threaded holes as one can then secure the glands with a
    nut **after** fixing the gland onto the cable. However that raises a
    couple of issues:-

    Yup, when all the wires are fixed length, it can be difficult trying to
    do too many jobs at once. I would fit the glands to the SWA, then fit
    the glads to the box, then fix the box, and lastly wire it up. That
    makes it easier to work with shorter lengths of SWA, and only fight one
    at a time. Fixing the box after attaching the glands allows a bit more
    wiggle room if necessary.

    Can one get brass 20mm washers for the glands, and brass nuts?

    The supplied banjo tags are IME normally non ferrous - although not as
    shiny and bright as the brass glands themselves.

    ones I took apart from the old broken box were steel and very
    corroded.

    The thin backnuts are usually steel though. That matters a bit less
    since they are there for clamping force rather that electrical connection.

    How to tighten the nuts given the limited accessibility, I guess a
    custom made box spanner - short box with a handle - might be the
    best answer.

    There is a variation of the bush spanner that will fit over the backnuts:

    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CKT4765.html

    Any/all advice (and sympathy) welcome! :-)

    Go with a plain unthreaded box, bin the backnuts and banjo tags, and use Piranha nuts or similar:

    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/PRPEN20.html

    Here is one I needed to put back in place with three of the 4 SWA fixed
    in length (but new glands)... Turns out I had one fewer Piranha nut in
    stock than I thought - hence the banjo tag used on one!

    https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:ExteriorJBWithPiranhaNuts.jpg


    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Chris Green@21:1/5 to John Rumm on Mon Apr 21 08:46:44 2025
    John Rumm <see.my.signature@nowhere.null> wrote:
    On 20/04/2025 14:00, Chris Green wrote:
    [snip me moaning]

    So, back to square one, how to replace an outdoor connection box with
    three M20 SWA glands into it? I think I need to go back to a plain
    box without threaded holes as one can then secure the glands with a
    nut **after** fixing the gland onto the cable. However that raises a couple of issues:-

    Yup, when all the wires are fixed length, it can be difficult trying to
    do too many jobs at once. I would fit the glands to the SWA, then fit
    the glads to the box, then fix the box, and lastly wire it up. That
    makes it easier to work with shorter lengths of SWA, and only fight one
    at a time. Fixing the box after attaching the glands allows a bit more
    wiggle room if necessary.

    Can one get brass 20mm washers for the glands, and brass nuts?

    The supplied banjo tags are IME normally non ferrous - although not as
    shiny and bright as the brass glands themselves.

    ones I took apart from the old broken box were steel and very
    corroded.

    The thin backnuts are usually steel though. That matters a bit less
    since they are there for clamping force rather that electrical connection.

    How to tighten the nuts given the limited accessibility, I guess a
    custom made box spanner - short box with a handle - might be the
    best answer.

    There is a variation of the bush spanner that will fit over the backnuts:

    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CKT4765.html

    Any/all advice (and sympathy) welcome! :-)

    Go with a plain unthreaded box, bin the backnuts and banjo tags, and use Piranha nuts or similar:

    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/PRPEN20.html

    Here is one I needed to put back in place with three of the 4 SWA fixed
    in length (but new glands)... Turns out I had one fewer Piranha nut in
    stock than I thought - hence the banjo tag used on one!

    https://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:ExteriorJBWithPiranhaNuts.jpg

    Thanks John, really useful all that.

    --
    Chris Green
    ·

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)