Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:

My bread machine is only pluggable at the wall socket end.
At the machine end its hard wired.
Jiggling the cable at the machine end causes an ever decreasing live
response as days go by.

I took the cable cover off the machine and saw that there were two
plastic connectors inside. Live and neutral went to one, earth to
another. I unplugged and replugged these and visually they looked
clean and functional.
Where the cable initally enters the machine, there's a severe looking
pinch point to prevent internal cable movement.
As the bread machine is moved around a lot in a small kitchen, how
likely is it that there's now a break at the pinch point?

If I have to strip the cable back I'll need to use a lot less fancy
plastic connectors for the wiring inside, so I'd prefer some advice
before I take the plunge.

99% chance that the cable has an internal break at the point where it
flexes most (not necessarily the pinch point of the cable clamp).

Had exactly this issue with my EV charger and was rewiring a 32 amp cable
at 5 in the morning on Wednesday!

Tim

--
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On 24/05/2025 07:52, Mike Halmarack wrote:

My bread machine is only pluggable at the wall socket end.
At the machine end its hard wired.
Jiggling the cable at the machine end causes an ever decreasing live
response as days go by.

I took the cable cover off the machine and saw that there were two
plastic connectors inside. Live and neutral went to one, earth to
another. I unplugged and replugged these and visually they looked
clean and functional.
Where the cable initally enters the machine, there's a severe looking
pinch point to prevent internal cable movement.
As the bread machine is moved around a lot in a small kitchen, how
likely is it that there's now a break at the pinch point?

Very likely.

If I have to strip the cable back I'll need to use a lot less fancy
plastic connectors for the wiring inside, so I'd prefer some advice
before I take the plunge.

What are you going to use to join up the wires - Wago connectors?

When you repair it, why not fit a strain relief protector? For examples see (<https://www.amazon.co.uk/strain-relief/s?k=strain+relief&s=price-asc-rank&qid=1748069853&ref=sr_st_price-asc-rank&ds=v1%3AkRIHnxXh6Ts%2Fuj%2FuHkbyC5m7pn0fdJHChrHVovCQNSo>).
You'll have to get one with the correct diameter to take the cable.

--
Jeff

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Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> wrote:

On 24/05/2025 07:52, Mike Halmarack wrote:

My bread machine is only pluggable at the wall socket end.
At the machine end its hard wired.
Jiggling the cable at the machine end causes an ever decreasing live
response as days go by.

I took the cable cover off the machine and saw that there were two
plastic connectors inside. Live and neutral went to one, earth to
another. I unplugged and replugged these and visually they looked
clean and functional.
Where the cable initally enters the machine, there's a severe looking
pinch point to prevent internal cable movement.
As the bread machine is moved around a lot in a small kitchen, how
likely is it that there's now a break at the pinch point?

Very likely.

If I have to strip the cable back I'll need to use a lot less fancy
plastic connectors for the wiring inside, so I'd prefer some advice
before I take the plunge.

What are you going to use to join up the wires - Wago connectors?

When you repair it, why not fit a strain relief protector? For examples see (<https://www.amazon.co.uk/strain-relief/s?k=strain+relief&s=price-asc-rank&qid=1748069853&ref=sr_st_price-asc-rank&ds=v1%3AkRIHnxXh6Ts%2Fuj%2FuHkbyC5m7pn0fdJHChrHVovCQNSo>).
You'll have to get one with the correct diameter to take the cable.

Um, I think the “pinch point” described *is* the strain relief protector.

Tim

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Please don't feed the trolls

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On 24/05/2025 08:34, Tim+ wrote:

Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> wrote:

On 24/05/2025 07:52, Mike Halmarack wrote:

Where the cable initally enters the machine, there's a severe looking
pinch point to prevent internal cable movement.
As the bread machine is moved around a lot in a small kitchen, how
likely is it that there's now a break at the pinch point?

Very likely.

If I have to strip the cable back I'll need to use a lot less fancy
plastic connectors for the wiring inside, so I'd prefer some advice
before I take the plunge.

What are you going to use to join up the wires - Wago connectors?

When you repair it, why not fit a strain relief protector? For examples see >> (<https://www.amazon.co.uk/strain-relief/s?k=strain+relief&s=price-asc-rank&qid=1748069853&ref=sr_st_price-asc-rank&ds=v1%3AkRIHnxXh6Ts%2Fuj%2FuHkbyC5m7pn0fdJHChrHVovCQNSo>).
You'll have to get one with the correct diameter to take the cable.

Um, I think the “pinch point” described *is* the strain relief protector.

And the strain relief protector may be heat sealed to the cable, and not
be re-usable after confirming there was a break in the wire at the
outermost end of the strain relief 'protector'.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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On 24/05/2025 09:23, Nick Finnigan wrote:

On 24/05/2025 08:34, Tim+ wrote:

Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> wrote:

On 24/05/2025 07:52, Mike Halmarack wrote:

Where the cable initally enters the machine, there's a severe looking
pinch point to prevent internal cable movement.
As the bread machine is moved around a lot in a small kitchen, how
likely is it that there's now a break at the pinch point?

Very likely.

If I have to strip the cable back I'll need to use a lot less fancy
plastic connectors for the wiring inside, so I'd prefer some advice
before I take the plunge.

What are you going to use to join up the wires - Wago connectors?

When you repair it, why not fit a strain relief protector? For
examples see
(<https://www.amazon.co.uk/strain-relief/s?k=strain+relief&s=price-
asc-rank&qid=1748069853&ref=sr_st_price-asc-
rank&ds=v1%3AkRIHnxXh6Ts%2Fuj%2FuHkbyC5m7pn0fdJHChrHVovCQNSo>).
You'll have to get one with the correct diameter to take the cable.

Um, I think the “pinch point” described *is* the strain relief protector.

 And the strain relief protector may be heat sealed to the cable, and
not be re-usable after confirming there was a break in the wire at the outermost end of the strain relief 'protector'.

Often a missing strain relief type problem can be fixed with cable ties,
either around the cable to stop it pulling out of the hole in the
equipment and/or to tie the cable to the chassis or some other immovable
point. However, sometimes the pinch type fittings also act as a grommet
to stop the sharp edge of a hole in metal from cutting the cable.

Don't overlook the mains plug side of the cable. I've had the strain
relief on a moulded main plug fail. The plug strain relief split when
the cable has been bent at an acute angle near the plug - not enough
clearance between the mains socket and a surface beneath it to allow the
cable to come out straight.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

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On 24/05/2025 08:34, Tim+ wrote:

Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> wrote:

On 24/05/2025 07:52, Mike Halmarack wrote:

My bread machine is only pluggable at the wall socket end.
At the machine end its hard wired.
Jiggling the cable at the machine end causes an ever decreasing live
response as days go by.

I took the cable cover off the machine and saw that there were two
plastic connectors inside. Live and neutral went to one, earth to
another. I unplugged and replugged these and visually they looked
clean and functional.
Where the cable initally enters the machine, there's a severe looking
pinch point to prevent internal cable movement.
As the bread machine is moved around a lot in a small kitchen, how
likely is it that there's now a break at the pinch point?

Very likely.

If I have to strip the cable back I'll need to use a lot less fancy
plastic connectors for the wiring inside, so I'd prefer some advice
before I take the plunge.

What are you going to use to join up the wires - Wago connectors?

When you repair it, why not fit a strain relief protector? For examples see >> (<https://www.amazon.co.uk/strain-relief/s?k=strain+relief&s=price-asc-rank&qid=1748069853&ref=sr_st_price-asc-rank&ds=v1%3AkRIHnxXh6Ts%2Fuj%2FuHkbyC5m7pn0fdJHChrHVovCQNSo>).
You'll have to get one with the correct diameter to take the cable.

Um, I think the “pinch point” described *is* the strain relief protector.

Perhaps, but it sounds more like the type of cord grip found on a 13A
plug! With an extended rubber protector of the sort on the Amazon page
it should reduce any damage to the cable wire as it's moved.

--
Jeff

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:

On 24 May 2025 06:57:12 GMT, Tim+ <timdownieuk@yahoo.co.youkay> wrote:

Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:

My bread machine is only pluggable at the wall socket end.
At the machine end its hard wired.
Jiggling the cable at the machine end causes an ever decreasing live
response as days go by.

I took the cable cover off the machine and saw that there were two
plastic connectors inside. Live and neutral went to one, earth to
another. I unplugged and replugged these and visually they looked
clean and functional.
Where the cable initally enters the machine, there's a severe looking
pinch point to prevent internal cable movement.
As the bread machine is moved around a lot in a small kitchen, how
likely is it that there's now a break at the pinch point?

If I have to strip the cable back I'll need to use a lot less fancy
plastic connectors for the wiring inside, so I'd prefer some advice
before I take the plunge.

99% chance that the cable has an internal break at the point where it
flexes most (not necessarily the pinch point of the cable clamp).

Had exactly this issue with my EV charger and was rewiring a 32 amp cable
at 5 in the morning on Wednesday!

Tim

I'd better get myself a test meter.

Handy, but not usually necessary.

I suppose the break could be
anywhere

Unlikely. Where does the flex undergo the greatest amount of acute flexion?
It will next to the fixed points be where it’s clamped (appliance or sometimes plug, usually appliance). Just trim off the last few inches and remake the internal connections.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

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Tim+ <timdownieuk@yahoo.co.youkay> wrote:

Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:

On 24 May 2025 06:57:12 GMT, Tim+ <timdownieuk@yahoo.co.youkay> wrote:

Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:

My bread machine is only pluggable at the wall socket end.
At the machine end its hard wired.
Jiggling the cable at the machine end causes an ever decreasing live
response as days go by.

I took the cable cover off the machine and saw that there were two
plastic connectors inside. Live and neutral went to one, earth to
another. I unplugged and replugged these and visually they looked
clean and functional.
Where the cable initally enters the machine, there's a severe looking
pinch point to prevent internal cable movement.
As the bread machine is moved around a lot in a small kitchen, how
likely is it that there's now a break at the pinch point?

If I have to strip the cable back I'll need to use a lot less fancy
plastic connectors for the wiring inside, so I'd prefer some advice
before I take the plunge.

99% chance that the cable has an internal break at the point where it
flexes most (not necessarily the pinch point of the cable clamp).

Had exactly this issue with my EV charger and was rewiring a 32 amp cable >>> at 5 in the morning on Wednesday!

Tim

I'd better get myself a test meter.

Handy, but not usually necessary.

I suppose the break could be
anywhere

Unlikely. Where does the flex undergo the greatest amount of acute flexion? It will next to the fixed points be where it’s clamped (appliance or sometimes plug, usually appliance). Just trim off the last few inches and remake the internal connections.

Tim

Excess cable and having to “lose” it by coiling it up doesn’t help with some pinch points, I shorten appliance flexes to suit their location
relative to the plug as it keeps thing a lot tidier. Usually by cutting
off the moulded plug and fitting a wireable one but if access is easy and terminations straightforward then at the appliance end. The only
appliance we have which gives regular cord fracture problems is our Sebo
vacuum cleaner , well designed in many ways but has a weakness where the
flex enters the handle. But its only a couple of screws to remove the
cover so it is a quick job to remake after shortening by a few inches. At a rate of having to do it about every three years I’m a long way from needing
a new flex yet.

GH

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Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:

On 25 May 2025 09:00:40 GMT, Marland <gemehabal@btinternet.co.uk>
wrote:

Tim+ <timdownieuk@yahoo.co.youkay> wrote:

Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:

On 24 May 2025 06:57:12 GMT, Tim+ <timdownieuk@yahoo.co.youkay> wrote: >>>>

Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:

My bread machine is only pluggable at the wall socket end.
At the machine end its hard wired.
Jiggling the cable at the machine end causes an ever decreasing live >>>>>> response as days go by.

I took the cable cover off the machine and saw that there were two >>>>>> plastic connectors inside. Live and neutral went to one, earth to
another. I unplugged and replugged these and visually they looked
clean and functional.
Where the cable initally enters the machine, there's a severe looking >>>>>> pinch point to prevent internal cable movement.
As the bread machine is moved around a lot in a small kitchen, how >>>>>> likely is it that there's now a break at the pinch point?

If I have to strip the cable back I'll need to use a lot less fancy >>>>>> plastic connectors for the wiring inside, so I'd prefer some advice >>>>>> before I take the plunge.

99% chance that the cable has an internal break at the point where it >>>>> flexes most (not necessarily the pinch point of the cable clamp).

Had exactly this issue with my EV charger and was rewiring a 32 amp cable >>>>> at 5 in the morning on Wednesday!

Tim

I'd better get myself a test meter.

Handy, but not usually necessary.

I suppose the break could be
anywhere

Unlikely. Where does the flex undergo the greatest amount of acute flexion? >>> It will next to the fixed points be where it’s clamped (appliance or
sometimes plug, usually appliance). Just trim off the last few inches and >>> remake the internal connections.

Tim

Excess cable and having to “lose” it by coiling it up doesn’t help with >> some pinch points, I shorten appliance flexes to suit their location
relative to the plug as it keeps thing a lot tidier. Usually by cutting
off the moulded plug and fitting a wireable one but if access is easy and >> terminations straightforward then at the appliance end. The only
appliance we have which gives regular cord fracture problems is our Sebo
vacuum cleaner , well designed in many ways but has a weakness where the
flex enters the handle. But its only a couple of screws to remove the
cover so it is a quick job to remake after shortening by a few inches. At a >> rate of having to do it about every three years I’m a long way from needing >> a new flex yet.

GH

I'll definitely use the shorten cable to fit the situation method.

I’ve done that, and then regretted it when we’ve had to rearrange things and the wires were too short. ;-)

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

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Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:

On 25 May 2025 07:31:45 GMT, Tim+ <timdownieuk@yahoo.co.youkay> wrote:

Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:

On 24 May 2025 06:57:12 GMT, Tim+ <timdownieuk@yahoo.co.youkay> wrote:

Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:

My bread machine is only pluggable at the wall socket end.
At the machine end its hard wired.
Jiggling the cable at the machine end causes an ever decreasing live >>>>> response as days go by.

I took the cable cover off the machine and saw that there were two
plastic connectors inside. Live and neutral went to one, earth to
another. I unplugged and replugged these and visually they looked
clean and functional.
Where the cable initally enters the machine, there's a severe looking >>>>> pinch point to prevent internal cable movement.
As the bread machine is moved around a lot in a small kitchen, how
likely is it that there's now a break at the pinch point?

If I have to strip the cable back I'll need to use a lot less fancy
plastic connectors for the wiring inside, so I'd prefer some advice
before I take the plunge.

99% chance that the cable has an internal break at the point where it
flexes most (not necessarily the pinch point of the cable clamp).

Had exactly this issue with my EV charger and was rewiring a 32 amp cable >>>> at 5 in the morning on Wednesday!

Tim

I'd better get myself a test meter.

Handy, but not usually necessary.

I suppose the break could be
anywhere

Unlikely. Where does the flex undergo the greatest amount of acute flexion? >> It will next to the fixed points be where it’s clamped (appliance or
sometimes plug, usually appliance). Just trim off the last few inches and
remake the internal connections.

Tim

Thank you.
Looks like the way to go.
Maybe for the live an neutral connector I could buy the same type of connector and just use the cable end of the connector unit.
Is it necessary to have special tools to wire these connector parts?

https://i.postimg.cc/Prp8fjK0/wires-with-text.jpg

That connector is a bit of a pain. Yes, you can get special tools to “de-pin” such connectors but then you would need new pins crimped to your wire ends.

Options.

One would be to just cut the flex immediately “upstream” of the clamped bit (as the break is almost certainly just beyond it. Retain the end with the
plug and add a scotch block or Wago connector to rejoin the flex (having trimmed a few inches off the rest flow “downstream” of the clamped bit).

Hopefully there is enough room inside the appliance casing to accommodate
the old and the new connectors. Not best practice though as you’ll now have two cable connectors in series.

Better would be to replace the connector with something else (Wago,
scotchblock etc.) but that might depend on how much slack you have in the machine end of the cable. Cutting, soldering and heat-shrink sleeving might
be doable.

Tim

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Please don't feed the trolls

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On Sun, 25 May 2025 14:35:25 +0100, Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:

On 25 May 2025 10:49:32 GMT, Tim+ <timdownieuk@yahoo.co.youkay> wrote:

(...)

Better would be to replace the connector with something else (Wago, >>scotchblock etc.) but that might depend on how much slack you have in the >>machine end of the cable. Cutting, soldering and heat-shrink sleeving might >>be doable.

Tim

Thanks for the advice Tim.
I'm going to go for three inline Wago connectors. I don't quite know
why the earth wire was made remote from the live/neutral pair, but by
using this method I can maintain that separation.
I'm hoping to be able to crush the existing connectors to remove them
in such a way that the available lengths of wires will be at their
max, meagre as that will be on the machine side. I think having to cut
the wires back and then baring the ends to place in the connectors
will leave them very short and pretty inaccessible.

I'd cut off the connectors on the cable about where the sleeving ends, and solder an heat-shrink-sleeve these to a new cable, like Tim said. Possibly slip silicone insulation tubing over the connections as well, though it doesn't look as if the manufacturer expected heat at the cable end.

The wires in the machine are insulated with high-temperature woven insulation. not easy to cut, and the bits in the connectors will be crimped on. Easier to work on just the cable outside the machine.

Thomas Prufer

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