As fas as I can tell the fan oven is on its' own circuit.

Been there from new, probably about 13 years.
Not used as an oven usually (we have a combi) but weekly or more for the
grill.

Cooking a chicken (to leave the combi microwave free) and at some point it tripped the breaker.
Tried to reset the breaker and popped immediately.
Turned the oven off and tried again, still popped the breaker.
At that point I assume that only the control panel (with cooling fan)
would be active.

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not worth
trying to repair a 13 year old oven.
However I also assume that some testing is needed to confirm that it is
the oven.

Suggestions welcome.

TIA



Dave R

--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 10 x64

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

As fas as I can tell the fan oven is on its' own circuit.

Been there from new, probably about 13 years.
Not used as an oven usually (we have a combi) but weekly or more for the grill.

Cooking a chicken (to leave the combi microwave free) and at some point it tripped the breaker.
Tried to reset the breaker and popped immediately.
Turned the oven off and tried again, still popped the breaker.
At that point I assume that only the control panel (with cooling fan)
would be active.

Breaker = MCB, RCD or RCBO?

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not worth trying to repair a 13 year old oven.
However I also assume that some testing is needed to confirm that it is
the oven.

The element is a wire in an earthed metal tube, filled with ceramic.
Eventually the ceramic breaks down and you get a low resistance path to
earth that trips the RCD/RCBO - maybe that only happens when things are hot,
or when it's got damp through irregular use. It could be a neutral to earth fault that is still present when the oven is turned off.

Suggestions welcome.

Change the element. You may be able to let it cool, then turn on elements independently (grill / etc) and see if you can work out which one is
tripping it. If any element is visibly drooping or out of shape, now is the time to change it.

Elements are a wear item and often readily available for not-very-much.
I did my 25 year old oven recently - fitted a new fan motor too. New
element was about £15, it was simple to do once I'd gained access to the
back of the unit.

Theo

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

David wrote:

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not worth trying to repair a 13 year old oven.

A few years it was worth replacing the grill element on my oven, prices
(like everything) seem a bit higher now ...

<https://elementreplacement.co.uk>
<https://elementman.co.uk>

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 13/07/2025 16:13, David wrote:

As fas as I can tell the fan oven is on its' own circuit.

Been there from new, probably about 13 years.
Not used as an oven usually (we have a combi) but weekly or more for the grill.

Cooking a chicken (to leave the combi microwave free) and at some point it tripped the breaker.
Tried to reset the breaker and popped immediately.
Turned the oven off and tried again, still popped the breaker.
At that point I assume that only the control panel (with cooling fan)
would be active.

Have you tried resetting the breaker with the external cooker switch
turned off? Just to ensure that it is the oven itself that is causing
the trip.

It might be worth disconnecting the element - as even with it off, the
neutral side may still be leaking to earth and tripping and RCD or RCBO.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Sun, 13 Jul 2025 16:25:11 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

David wrote:

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not worth
trying to repair a 13 year old oven.

A few years it was worth replacing the grill element on my oven, prices
(like everything) seem a bit higher now ...

<https://elementreplacement.co.uk>
<https://elementman.co.uk>

Thanks for the links.

The oven is LAM3401
<https://elementreplacement.co.uk/lamona-fan-oven-element- elesam4700044-4326-p.asp>
The element costs £84.95 from the above site.

I can get a brand new oven for just under £200 so this seems to be an uneconomic repair.

Always assuming that it is the element that has gone.

Also noting that if components are starting to fail, there may be more potential failures in the near future.

Cheers



Dave R



--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 10 x64

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 13/07/2025 19:01, David wrote:

On Sun, 13 Jul 2025 16:25:11 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

David wrote:

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not worth
trying to repair a 13 year old oven.

A few years it was worth replacing the grill element on my oven, prices
(like everything) seem a bit higher now ...

<https://elementreplacement.co.uk>
<https://elementman.co.uk>

Thanks for the links.

The oven is LAM3401 <https://elementreplacement.co.uk/lamona-fan-oven-element- elesam4700044-4326-p.asp>
The element costs £84.95 from the above site.

I can get a brand new oven for just under £200 so this seems to be an uneconomic repair.

Always assuming that it is the element that has gone.

Also noting that if components are starting to fail, there may be more potential failures in the near future.

Not really. elements are the weak link. Temperature cycled.

Surprised at the price. The repair I did was only £25 or so

Whole new oven at £80 from Wallingford

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/205469689580



--
"I guess a rattlesnake ain't risponsible fer bein' a rattlesnake, but ah
puts mah heel on um jess the same if'n I catches him around mah chillun".

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 13/07/2025 16:13, David wrote:

As fas as I can tell the fan oven is on its' own circuit.

Been there from new, probably about 13 years.
Not used as an oven usually (we have a combi) but weekly or more for the grill.

Cooking a chicken (to leave the combi microwave free) and at some point it tripped the breaker.
Tried to reset the breaker and popped immediately.
Turned the oven off and tried again, still popped the breaker.
At that point I assume that only the control panel (with cooling fan)
would be active.

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not worth trying to repair a 13 year old oven.
However I also assume that some testing is needed to confirm that it is
the oven.

I traced a similar fault on the neighbours old cooker. The grill would
trip it.
Turned out to be a not quite short - more a leak - in a heating
element., These are wires in an insulating matrix in a copper tube. The insulating matrix breaks down or water gets inside and ... bang.

Replaced the grill element which was a faff but fixed the problem

The old element showed a few thousand ohms between element and copper tube.

All in all stripping it down finding the fault and reassembling it was
a couple of days D-i-y days. Element was peanuts.

If it's £1000 range cooker I'd fix it. If its a £300 POS Curry's
special offer I'd buy another POS.

Suggestions welcome.

It will definitely be fixable. Whether its worth a couple of days of
your time is only a decision you can make

TIA

Dave R

--
"Strange as it seems, no amount of learning can cure stupidity, and
higher education positively fortifies it."

- Stephen Vizinczey

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 13/07/2025 20:28, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 13/07/2025 19:01, David wrote:

On Sun, 13 Jul 2025 16:25:11 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

David wrote:

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not worth >>>> trying to repair a 13 year old oven.

A few years it was worth replacing the grill element on my oven, prices
(like everything) seem a bit higher now ...

<https://elementreplacement.co.uk>
<https://elementman.co.uk>

Thanks for the links.

The oven is LAM3401
<https://elementreplacement.co.uk/lamona-fan-oven-element-
elesam4700044-4326-p.asp>
The element costs £84.95 from the above site.

I can get a brand new oven for just under £200 so this seems to be an
uneconomic repair.

Always assuming that it is the element that has gone.

Also noting that if components are starting to fail, there may be more
potential failures in the near future.

Not really. elements are the weak link. Temperature cycled.

Surprised at the price. The repair I did was only £25 or so

Whole new oven at £80 from Wallingford

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/205469689580

Some of us remember your issue with the hungry Mouse:-)

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

On Sun, 13 Jul 2025 16:25:11 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

David wrote:

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not worth
trying to repair a 13 year old oven.

A few years it was worth replacing the grill element on my oven, prices (like everything) seem a bit higher now ...

<https://elementreplacement.co.uk>
<https://elementman.co.uk>

Thanks for the links.

The oven is LAM3401 <https://elementreplacement.co.uk/lamona-fan-oven-element- elesam4700044-4326-p.asp>
The element costs £84.95 from the above site.

From that it appears that your oven is a Samsung rebrand, and the element
part number is DG47-00044A. I can find that for £69.99:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285316443313

This particular part is more expensive than many - the DG47-00009A
(1200W not 1800W) is only £25.

I can get a brand new oven for just under £200 so this seems to be an uneconomic repair.

Yes, but it'll be a crap oven for £200. Although ovens are simpler than
other appliances so maybe there are fewer ways cheap can be nasty?

Always assuming that it is the element that has gone.

Also noting that if components are starting to fail, there may be more potential failures in the near future.

This is just its cambelt service, which needs to be done at mid-life.
Change the element and it should go on for years.

(not to say that other elements won't need doing at some point in the
future)

Theo

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

On Sun, 13 Jul 2025 16:25:11 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

David wrote:

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not worth
trying to repair a 13 year old oven.

A few years it was worth replacing the grill element on my oven, prices
(like everything) seem a bit higher now ...

<https://elementreplacement.co.uk>
<https://elementman.co.uk>

Thanks for the links.

The oven is LAM3401 <https://elementreplacement.co.uk/lamona-fan-oven-element- elesam4700044-4326-p.asp>
The element costs £84.95 from the above site.

Try eBay.

£16.95 delivered.

https://ebay.us/m/mqKUZG

Tim
--
Please don't feed the trolls

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

David wrote:

As fas as I can tell the fan oven is on its' own circuit.

Been there from new, probably about 13 years.
Not used as an oven usually (we have a combi) but weekly or more for the grill.

Cooking a chicken (to leave the combi microwave free) and at some point it tripped the breaker.
Tried to reset the breaker and popped immediately.
Turned the oven off and tried again, still popped the breaker.
At that point I assume that only the control panel (with cooling fan)
would be active.

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not worth trying to repair a 13 year old oven.
However I also assume that some testing is needed to confirm that it is
the oven.

Suggestions welcome.

TIA

Dave R

I've had an element fail (very common, and easy to replace) and also a
fan. The fan was easy to replace, but the cause was that some heating "engineers" had managed to drill through a wall, through the back of the
cooker and into one of the oven cavities while trying to install some
pipework. Everything was fine until the RCD tripped while cooking the
Xmas Turkey, presumably because the fan became upset at the heat and
moisture - that's when I discovered the hole!

Suggestions: isolate the element and the fan, check that all is well,
connect the fan, check that all is well, connect the element, check that
all is well ... at some stage it won't be well and you will then know
what to replace. (This assumes that you don't have the equipment to
check the parts.)

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

As fas as I can tell the fan oven is on its' own circuit.

Been there from new, probably about 13 years.
Not used as an oven usually (we have a combi) but weekly or more for the grill.

Cooking a chicken (to leave the combi microwave free) and at some point it tripped the breaker.
Tried to reset the breaker and popped immediately.
Turned the oven off and tried again, still popped the breaker.
At that point I assume that only the control panel (with cooling fan)
would be active.

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not worth trying to repair a 13 year old oven.
However I also assume that some testing is needed to confirm that it is
the oven.

Suggestions welcome.

TIA

Dave R

My Elderley Mothers Oven did the same, she only decided to use when we
visited for Christmas so it had months lying idle so the element absorbed moisture. I didn’t have tools or time on the visit to change the element
so borrowed one of her heated cushions as sold occasionally in LIDL or ALDI
and placed this in the oven on a middle heat setting and let it warm up
the oven with door just opened a tad , left it all evening and overnight resetting the cushion timer as required. Next morning the oven worked
fine so the element must have dried out. Another gentle heat source such
as an incandescent 40- 60W bulb in a cage type lead lamp would do but they
are getting rare now.
In an almost enclosed oven space the heat buildup can be considerable , in
fact if the oven has its own incandescent lamp built in which can be
switched on independently leaving that on for a period may also do the job.

GH

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 2025-07-14 10:21, Marland wrote:

David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

As fas as I can tell the fan oven is on its' own circuit.

Been there from new, probably about 13 years.
Not used as an oven usually (we have a combi) but weekly or more for the
grill.

Cooking a chicken (to leave the combi microwave free) and at some point it >> tripped the breaker.
Tried to reset the breaker and popped immediately.
Turned the oven off and tried again, still popped the breaker.
At that point I assume that only the control panel (with cooling fan)
would be active.

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not worth
trying to repair a 13 year old oven.
However I also assume that some testing is needed to confirm that it is
the oven.

Suggestions welcome.

TIA



Dave R

My Elderley Mothers Oven did the same, she only decided to use when we visited for Christmas so it had months lying idle so the element absorbed moisture. I didn’t have tools or time on the visit to change the element so borrowed one of her heated cushions as sold occasionally in LIDL or ALDI and placed this in the oven on a middle heat setting and let it warm up
the oven with door just opened a tad , left it all evening and overnight resetting the cushion timer as required. Next morning the oven worked
fine so the element must have dried out. Another gentle heat source such
as an incandescent 40- 60W bulb in a cage type lead lamp would do but they are getting rare now.
In an almost enclosed oven space the heat buildup can be considerable , in fact if the oven has its own incandescent lamp built in which can be
switched on independently leaving that on for a period may also do the job.

GH

We used to use an industrial fluid heater, a helical stainless-steel
tube embedded into a block of cast aluminium with an electric heater
down the centre. They did exactly this. After a few months of sitting in stores, on first fitting they would fail the earth leakage test. After a
few hours of running the heater the leakage would drop to effectively zero.

nib

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote in news:loE*ADqhA@news.chiark.greenend.org.uk:

David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

On Sun, 13 Jul 2025 16:25:11 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

David wrote:

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not
worth trying to repair a 13 year old oven.

A few years it was worth replacing the grill element on my oven,
prices (like everything) seem a bit higher now ...

<https://elementreplacement.co.uk>
<https://elementman.co.uk>

Thanks for the links.

The oven is LAM3401
<https://elementreplacement.co.uk/lamona-fan-oven-element-
elesam4700044-4326-p.asp>
The element costs £84.95 from the above site.

From that it appears that your oven is a Samsung rebrand, and the
element part number is DG47-00044A. I can find that for £69.99:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285316443313

This particular part is more expensive than many - the DG47-00009A
(1200W not 1800W) is only £25.

Claimed compatible replacement here for £9.44 (good old eSpares:):

https://www.espares.co.uk/search/mo2135173pt1595/cookers-and- hobs/elements/lamona/lam3401

or https://preview.tinyurl.com/ymx7v3pr

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Sun, 13 Jul 2025 21:56:11 +0100, Theo wrote:

David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

On Sun, 13 Jul 2025 16:25:11 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

David wrote:

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not
worth trying to repair a 13 year old oven.

A few years it was worth replacing the grill element on my oven,
prices (like everything) seem a bit higher now ...

<https://elementreplacement.co.uk>
<https://elementman.co.uk>

Thanks for the links.

The oven is LAM3401
<https://elementreplacement.co.uk/lamona-fan-oven-element-
elesam4700044-4326-p.asp>
The element costs £84.95 from the above site.

From that it appears that your oven is a Samsung rebrand, and the
element part number is DG47-00044A. I can find that for £69.99:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285316443313

This particular part is more expensive than many - the DG47-00009A
(1200W not 1800W) is only £25.

I can get a brand new oven for just under £200 so this seems to be an
uneconomic repair.

Yes, but it'll be a crap oven for £200. Although ovens are simpler than other appliances so maybe there are fewer ways cheap can be nasty?

Always assuming that it is the element that has gone.

Also noting that if components are starting to fail, there may be more
potential failures in the near future.

This is just its cambelt service, which needs to be done at mid-life.
Change the element and it should go on for years.

(not to say that other elements won't need doing at some point in the
future)

Theo

Interesting.
I was assuming that it was a Beko like many other rebranded Lamona kitchen devices.

The reviews from Which? aren't always accurate, but they list several Beko ovens as best buys, the cheapest at £199.

I sometimes struggle to see the added value of, say, a £999 oven over a
£199 oven if you are not looking for specialised features like steam
baking.

Cheers




Dave R



--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 10 x64

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Mon, 14 Jul 2025 11:18:15 +0000, fred wrote:

Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote in news:loE*ADqhA@news.chiark.greenend.org.uk:

David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

On Sun, 13 Jul 2025 16:25:11 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

David wrote:

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not
worth trying to repair a 13 year old oven.

A few years it was worth replacing the grill element on my oven,
prices (like everything) seem a bit higher now ...

<https://elementreplacement.co.uk>
<https://elementman.co.uk>

Thanks for the links.

The oven is LAM3401
<https://elementreplacement.co.uk/lamona-fan-oven-element-
elesam4700044-4326-p.asp>
The element costs £84.95 from the above site.

From that it appears that your oven is a Samsung rebrand, and the
element part number is DG47-00044A. I can find that for £69.99:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285316443313

This particular part is more expensive than many - the DG47-00009A
(1200W not 1800W) is only £25.

Claimed compatible replacement here for £9.44 (good old eSpares:):

https://www.espares.co.uk/search/mo2135173pt1595/cookers-and- hobs/elements/lamona/lam3401

or https://preview.tinyurl.com/ymx7v3pr

Thanks for the link.

The generic one is 2200W and £9.44

The genuine Samsung one is 1800W and £113.61

I am not convinced about fitting a generic part with a different power
rating.

Cheers



Dave R



--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 10 x64

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 13/07/2025 20:50, Timatmarford wrote:

On 13/07/2025 20:28, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

On 13/07/2025 19:01, David wrote:

On Sun, 13 Jul 2025 16:25:11 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

David wrote:

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not
worth
trying to repair a 13 year old oven.

A few years it was worth replacing the grill element on my oven, prices >>>> (like everything) seem a bit higher now ...

<https://elementreplacement.co.uk>
<https://elementman.co.uk>

Thanks for the links.

The oven is LAM3401
<https://elementreplacement.co.uk/lamona-fan-oven-element-
elesam4700044-4326-p.asp>
The element costs £84.95 from the above site.

I can get a brand new oven for just under £200 so this seems to be an
uneconomic repair.

Always assuming that it is the element that has gone.

Also noting that if components are starting to fail, there may be more
potential failures in the near future.

Not really. elements are the weak link. Temperature cycled.

Surprised at the price. The repair I did was only £25 or so

Whole new oven at £80 from Wallingford

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/205469689580

Some of us remember your issue with the hungry Mouse:-)

Little bastard. I had ventilation grilles under the Aga and my ex kicked
one in, and they crawled in that way.

I 3D printed a replacement and hot glued it in place, and no more mice.
Just slugs


--
Religion is regarded by the common people as true, by the wise as
foolish, and by the rulers as useful.

(Seneca the Younger, 65 AD)

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 14/07/2025 12:15, David wrote:

On Sun, 13 Jul 2025 21:56:11 +0100, Theo wrote:

David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

On Sun, 13 Jul 2025 16:25:11 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

David wrote:

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not
worth trying to repair a 13 year old oven.

A few years it was worth replacing the grill element on my oven,
prices (like everything) seem a bit higher now ...

<https://elementreplacement.co.uk>
<https://elementman.co.uk>

Thanks for the links.

The oven is LAM3401
<https://elementreplacement.co.uk/lamona-fan-oven-element-
elesam4700044-4326-p.asp>
The element costs £84.95 from the above site.

From that it appears that your oven is a Samsung rebrand, and the
element part number is DG47-00044A. I can find that for £69.99:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285316443313

This particular part is more expensive than many - the DG47-00009A
(1200W not 1800W) is only £25.

I can get a brand new oven for just under £200 so this seems to be an
uneconomic repair.

Yes, but it'll be a crap oven for £200. Although ovens are simpler than
other appliances so maybe there are fewer ways cheap can be nasty?

Always assuming that it is the element that has gone.

Also noting that if components are starting to fail, there may be more
potential failures in the near future.

This is just its cambelt service, which needs to be done at mid-life.
Change the element and it should go on for years.

(not to say that other elements won't need doing at some point in the
future)

Theo

Interesting.
I was assuming that it was a Beko like many other rebranded Lamona kitchen devices.

The reviews from Which? aren't always accurate, but they list several Beko ovens as best buys, the cheapest at £199.

I sometimes struggle to see the added value of, say, a £999 oven over a £199 oven if you are not looking for specialised features like steam
baking.

Well you get things that don't fall apart when touched.
And fail immedialetly

Cheers

Dave R

--
A lie can travel halfway around the world while the truth is putting on
its shoes.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Mon, 14 Jul 2025 14:20:16 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

<snip>.

The reviews from Which? aren't always accurate, but they list several
Beko ovens as best buys, the cheapest at £199.

I sometimes struggle to see the added value of, say, a £999 oven over a
£199 oven if you are not looking for specialised features like steam
baking.

Well you get things that don't fall apart when touched.
And fail immedialetly

Respectfully pointing out that I could work my way through 5 * £199 ovens before covering the cost of a £999 oven.

Each with a 2 year warranty.

Cheers



Dave R

--
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 10 x64

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 14/07/2025 14:35, David wrote:

On Mon, 14 Jul 2025 14:20:16 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

<snip>.

The reviews from Which? aren't always accurate, but they list several
Beko ovens as best buys, the cheapest at £199.

I sometimes struggle to see the added value of, say, a £999 oven over a >>> £199 oven if you are not looking for specialised features like steam
baking.

Well you get things that don't fall apart when touched.
And fail immedialetly

Respectfully pointing out that I could work my way through 5 * £199 ovens before covering the cost of a £999 oven.

Each with a 2 year warranty.

And how many valuable man hours do you waste getting the damn things
replaced?

Cheers

Dave R

--
Climate Change: Socialism wearing a lab coat.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 14/07/2025 14:28, David wrote:

The generic one is 2200W and £9.44

The genuine Samsung one is 1800W and £113.61

I am not convinced about fitting a generic part with a different power rating.

The oven doesn't care about your convictions. Juts fit the cheap part
anyway.



--
Climate Change: Socialism wearing a lab coat.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote in news:mdkevlF19a5U7
@mid.individual.net:

On Mon, 14 Jul 2025 11:18:15 +0000, fred wrote:

Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote in
news:loE*ADqhA@news.chiark.greenend.org.uk:

David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

On Sun, 13 Jul 2025 16:25:11 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

David wrote:

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not
worth trying to repair a 13 year old oven.

A few years it was worth replacing the grill element on my oven,
prices (like everything) seem a bit higher now ...

<https://elementreplacement.co.uk>
<https://elementman.co.uk>

Thanks for the links.

The oven is LAM3401
<https://elementreplacement.co.uk/lamona-fan-oven-element-
elesam4700044-4326-p.asp>
The element costs £84.95 from the above site.

From that it appears that your oven is a Samsung rebrand, and the
element part number is DG47-00044A. I can find that for £69.99:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285316443313

This particular part is more expensive than many - the DG47-00009A
(1200W not 1800W) is only £25.

Claimed compatible replacement here for £9.44 (good old eSpares:):

https://www.espares.co.uk/search/mo2135173pt1595/cookers-and-
hobs/elements/lamona/lam3401

or https://preview.tinyurl.com/ymx7v3pr

Thanks for the link.

The generic one is 2200W and £9.44

The genuine Samsung one is 1800W and £113.61

I am not convinced about fitting a generic part with a different power rating.

I understand your caution but feel it is not entirely justified. The
switching elements in the Samsung oven will be equally capable of
handling 7.8A (1800W) vs 10.4A (2400W) as they would not have been
designed without sufficient headroom. Plus, as it is a thermostatically controlled oven the additional power and decreased ramp-up time will be
handled comfortably by that mechanism.

Your choice of course but for the price difference of a tenner vs 100quid
(or 300quid+ for an equivalent oven) I feel it is worth a punt and one I
would take myself in the same position. I state that as a competent DIY-
er and as a degree qual electrical engineer (not that a BSc quals anyone
to make such choices).

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 14/07/2025 15:02, fred wrote:

David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote in news:mdkevlF19a5U7 @mid.individual.net:

On Mon, 14 Jul 2025 11:18:15 +0000, fred wrote:

Theo <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote in
news:loE*ADqhA@news.chiark.greenend.org.uk:

David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

On Sun, 13 Jul 2025 16:25:11 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

David wrote:

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not >>>>>>> worth trying to repair a 13 year old oven.

A few years it was worth replacing the grill element on my oven,
prices (like everything) seem a bit higher now ...

<https://elementreplacement.co.uk>
<https://elementman.co.uk>

Thanks for the links.

The oven is LAM3401
<https://elementreplacement.co.uk/lamona-fan-oven-element-
elesam4700044-4326-p.asp>
The element costs £84.95 from the above site.

From that it appears that your oven is a Samsung rebrand, and the
element part number is DG47-00044A. I can find that for £69.99:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285316443313

This particular part is more expensive than many - the DG47-00009A
(1200W not 1800W) is only £25.

Claimed compatible replacement here for £9.44 (good old eSpares:):

https://www.espares.co.uk/search/mo2135173pt1595/cookers-and-
hobs/elements/lamona/lam3401

or https://preview.tinyurl.com/ymx7v3pr

Thanks for the link.

The generic one is 2200W and £9.44

The genuine Samsung one is 1800W and £113.61

I am not convinced about fitting a generic part with a different power
rating.

I understand your caution but feel it is not entirely justified. The switching elements in the Samsung oven will be equally capable of
handling 7.8A (1800W) vs 10.4A (2400W) as they would not have been
designed without sufficient headroom.

It's even better - it is 2200W, not 2400W according to the link - so 9.6A.

--
Jeff

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 13/07/2025 16:13, David wrote:

As fas as I can tell the fan oven is on its' own circuit.

Been there from new, probably about 13 years.
Not used as an oven usually (we have a combi) but weekly or more for the grill.

Cooking a chicken (to leave the combi microwave free) and at some point it tripped the breaker.
Tried to reset the breaker and popped immediately.
Turned the oven off and tried again, still popped the breaker.
At that point I assume that only the control panel (with cooling fan)
would be active.

At the moment I am assuming that it is terminal, and probably not worth trying to repair a 13 year old oven.
However I also assume that some testing is needed to confirm that it is
the oven.

Suggestions welcome.

TIA

Dave R

My sister moved house about 3 years ago and took her cooker to the new property, and it worked perfectly until she used the oven and it tripped
the breaker. This happened every time she turned the oven on.

My brother was an electrician, so he went round to see what the problem
was. After tracing through the circuitry he discovered that the oven
had a light that came on to show that it was heating and went off when
the oven was up to temperature. The feed side was wired to the
"normally closed" connection on the thermostat, and the other side was
wired to the chassis, so effectively to Earth. The new house had a more sensitive ELCB then the previous house and the tiny current through the indicator light to Earth was enough to trip the breaker. He rewired the earthing wire to Neutral instead and all the problems went away.

Your oven at 13 years old might have a similar wiring problem.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)