My TV is currently against the wall, standing on what should be a
dining table. my grand kids are coming to visit so I'll need to use
the table elsewhere, for its original purpose.
The internal wall I'll need to fix the TV to is of a structure I can't understand. Underneath the plasterboard , there doesn't seem to be any
studs. There's just random areas where tapping reveals a block of some
kind and others that ring hollow.
In the distant past I've had a meter that detects studs and wires, but
I wonder if there's a meter available that will give a clearer, more
detailed picture of what's lurking in there?
My TV is currently against the wall, standing on what should be a
dining table. my grand kids are coming to visit so I'll need to use
the table elsewhere, for its original purpose.
The internal wall I'll need to fix the TV to is of a structure I can't understand. Underneath the plasterboard , there doesn't seem to be any
studs. There's just random areas where tapping reveals a block of some
kind and others that ring hollow.
In the distant past I've had a meter that detects studs and wires, but
I wonder if there's a meter available that will give a clearer, more
detailed picture of what's lurking in there?
Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:
My TV is currently against the wall, standing on what should be a
dining table. my grand kids are coming to visit so I'll need to use
the table elsewhere, for its original purpose.
The internal wall I'll need to fix the TV to is of a structure I can't
understand. Underneath the plasterboard , there doesn't seem to be any
studs. There's just random areas where tapping reveals a block of some
kind and others that ring hollow.
In the distant past I've had a meter that detects studs and wires, but
I wonder if there's a meter available that will give a clearer, more
detailed picture of what's lurking in there?
Hmm, sounds like “dot and dab” plastering whereby the plasterboard is stuck
up with lots of blob of plaster.
I imaging this is only done when plastering a solid wall of some
construction (brick/breeze block/thermalite etc) so there should be
something solid(ish) under it.
Modern TVs weigh very little though and plasterboard with carry the weight without a problem as long as you use suitable fixings.
Tim
, at 09:07:16 on Fri, 18 Jul 2025, Tim+ <timdownieuk@yahoo.co.youkay> remarked:
Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:
My TV is currently against the wall, standing on what should be a
dining table. my grand kids are coming to visit so I'll need to use
the table elsewhere, for its original purpose.
The internal wall I'll need to fix the TV to is of a structure I can't
understand. Underneath the plasterboard , there doesn't seem to be any
studs. There's just random areas where tapping reveals a block of some
kind and others that ring hollow.
In the distant past I've had a meter that detects studs and wires, but
I wonder if there's a meter available that will give a clearer, more
detailed picture of what's lurking in there?
Hmm, sounds like “dot and dab” plastering whereby the plasterboard is stuck
up with lots of blob of plaster.
I imaging this is only done when plastering a solid wall of some
construction (brick/breeze block/thermalite etc) so there should be
something solid(ish) under it.
Modern TVs weigh very little though and plasterboard with carry the weight >without a problem
as long as you use suitable fixings.
My TV is currently against the wall, standing on what should be a
dining table. my grand kids are coming to visit so I'll need to use
the table elsewhere, for its original purpose.
The internal wall I'll need to fix the TV to is of a structure I can't understand. Underneath the plasterboard , there doesn't seem to be any
studs. There's just random areas where tapping reveals a block of some
kind and others that ring hollow.
In the distant past I've had a meter that detects studs and wires, but
I wonder if there's a meter available that will give a clearer, more
detailed picture of what's lurking in there?
On 18 Jul 2025 09:07:16 GMT, Tim+ <timdownieuk@yahoo.co.youkay> wrote:
Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:I'm not sure of the range of possible types of plasterboard fixings.
My TV is currently against the wall, standing on what should be a
dining table. my grand kids are coming to visit so I'll need to use
the table elsewhere, for its original purpose.
The internal wall I'll need to fix the TV to is of a structure I can't
understand. Underneath the plasterboard , there doesn't seem to be any
studs. There's just random areas where tapping reveals a block of some
kind and others that ring hollow.
In the distant past I've had a meter that detects studs and wires, but
I wonder if there's a meter available that will give a clearer, more
detailed picture of what's lurking in there?
Hmm, sounds like “dot and dab” plastering whereby the plasterboard is stuck
up with lots of blob of plaster.
I imaging this is only done when plastering a solid wall of some
construction (brick/breeze block/thermalite etc) so there should be
something solid(ish) under it.
Modern TVs weigh very little though and plasterboard with carry the weight >> without a problem as long as you use suitable fixings.
Tim
The ones I've tried for other jobs around this flat have had problems
of not being able to go deep enough due to hitting the block work
behind.
Maybe there are types that require less depth.
On Fri, 18 Jul 2025 09:20:58 -0000 (UTC), Tricky Dicky <tricky.dicky@sky.com> wrote:
Yah Tim+ <timdownieuk@yahoo.co.youkay> wrote:
Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:
My TV is currently against the wall, standing on what should be a
dining table. my grand kids are coming to visit so I'll need to use
the table elsewhere, for its original purpose.
The internal wall I'll need to fix the TV to is of a structure I can't >>>> understand. Underneath the plasterboard , there doesn't seem to be any >>>> studs. There's just random areas where tapping reveals a block of some >>>> kind and others that ring hollow.
In the distant past I've had a meter that detects studs and wires, but >>>> I wonder if there's a meter available that will give a clearer, more
detailed picture of what's lurking in there?
Hmm, sounds like dot and dab plastering whereby the plasterboard is stuck
up with lots of blob of plaster.
I imaging this is only done when plastering a solid wall of some
construction (brick/breeze block/thermalite etc) so there should be
something solid(ish) under it.
Modern TVs weigh very little though and plasterboard with carry the weight >>> without a problem as long as you use suitable fixings.
Tim
I agree it sounds very much like a dot & dab wall. There are a number of
fixings that you can use;
https://www.screwfix.com/p/corefix-connect-metal-plastic-100-heavy-duty-tv-wall-fixing-kit-10mm-x-95mm-6-pack/973kj
https://buyrigifixonline.co.uk/store/
https://www.drylinepro.com/
I have used all three types and all TVs are still securely fixed to the
walls. I have not tested to destruction their abilities but if pushed would >> say the rigifix are probably the best although the other two are more than >> adequate.
Richard
Thanks for the tips. Ill study the options.
Yah Tim+ <timdownieuk@yahoo.co.youkay> wrote:
Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:
My TV is currently against the wall, standing on what should be a
dining table. my grand kids are coming to visit so I'll need to use
the table elsewhere, for its original purpose.
The internal wall I'll need to fix the TV to is of a structure I can't
understand. Underneath the plasterboard , there doesn't seem to be any
studs. There's just random areas where tapping reveals a block of some
kind and others that ring hollow.
In the distant past I've had a meter that detects studs and wires, but
I wonder if there's a meter available that will give a clearer, more
detailed picture of what's lurking in there?
Hmm, sounds like “dot and dab” plastering whereby the plasterboard is stuck
up with lots of blob of plaster.
I imaging this is only done when plastering a solid wall of some
construction (brick/breeze block/thermalite etc) so there should be
something solid(ish) under it.
Modern TVs weigh very little though and plasterboard with carry the weight >> without a problem as long as you use suitable fixings.
Tim
I agree it sounds very much like a dot & dab wall. There are a number of fixings that you can use;
https://www.screwfix.com/p/corefix-connect-metal-plastic-100-heavy-duty-tv-wall-fixing-kit-10mm-x-95mm-6-pack/973kj
https://buyrigifixonline.co.uk/store/
https://www.drylinepro.com/
I have used all three types and all TVs are still securely fixed to the walls. I have not tested to destruction their abilities but if pushed would say the rigifix are probably the best although the other two are more than adequate.
Richard
On Fri, 18 Jul 2025 10:00:55 +0100, No mail <nomail@aolbin.com> wrote:
Mike Halmarack wrote:
My TV is currently against the wall, standing on what should be aSounds like it might be "dot and dab" - dots of adhesive that attach the
dining table. my grand kids are coming to visit so I'll need to use
the table elsewhere, for its original purpose.
The internal wall I'll need to fix the TV to is of a structure I can't
understand. Underneath the plasterboard , there doesn't seem to be any
studs. There's just random areas where tapping reveals a block of some
kind and others that ring hollow.
In the distant past I've had a meter that detects studs and wires, but
I wonder if there's a meter available that will give a clearer, more
detailed picture of what's lurking in there?
PB to blockwork or bricks. The best way to make a strong fixing is to
decide where your fixings need to go and then cut-away the PB in that
area. Insert a piece of wood that sits on the blockwork and fix through
that into the block, using standard blockwork fixings.
It does seem to be a dot and dab system. So, it's likely that the blockwork behind the plasterboard is continuous but just rings hollow
where the dots and dabs are not? If so I'll follow the procedure you
describe
Those Rigifix fixings look pretty good, providing you hit a block and
not a mortar course, or close to a block edge ... the problem is that
you don't know where/what you're fixing to unless you have a look by
making a small opening in the PB.
Another option would be to drill a perhaps 2cm hole in the plasterboard, >>then inject a couple of handfuls of additional dot-and-dab cement, let
it dry then attach to that.
Thanks for the suggestion. I like the 2cm hole idea, though maybe
filling with something a bit more sturdy than dot and dab cement, to
be on the safe side?
It's an internal wall, and although I've done several wall related
jobs around the place, I've never had a look at what's on the inside. Sometimes when I'm drilling I get what appears to be grey cinder block
dust, or lighter colourd dust, perhaps when I hit a mortar joint.
On Sat, 19 Jul 2025 20:46:53 +0100, alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk>
wrote:
On 19/07/2025 14:43, No mail wrote:
Those Rigifix fixings look pretty good, providing you hit a block and
not a mortar course, or close to a block edge ... the problem is that
you don't know where/what you're fixing to unless you have a look by
making a small opening in the PB.
You will not be able to see where in the block/brick you are drilling
into but in my experience if you drill the right size hole and insert
plug into something that is not sound the screw will not tighten.
If this happens undo the screw, say, 3/4 of the way out and pull the
plug out. With a gun pump something like grab adhesive in, perhaps use
the end of the drill bit to push the adhesive into the failing hole.
Hammer in another plug and allow some time for the grab adhesive to set.
Alternatively fill the failed hole with grab adhesive and re-drill when set.
That seems like a reassuring tip.
In message <sorm7kt2c41ooo09tuucbdnh81knj8v0mr@4ax.com>, at 11:15:16 on
Sat, 19 Jul 2025, Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> remarked:
Another option would be to drill a perhaps 2cm hole in the plasterboard, >>> then inject a couple of handfuls of additional dot-and-dab cement, let
it dry then attach to that.
Thanks for the suggestion. I like the 2cm hole idea, though maybe
filling with something a bit more sturdy than dot and dab cement, to
be on the safe side?
It needs to be sticky, to adhere like the original dot and dab. So why
not use the stuff that's designed for the job?
On 20/07/2025 08:04, Mike Halmarack wrote:
It's an internal wall, and although I've done several wall related
jobs around the place, I've never had a look at what's on the inside.
Sometimes when I'm drilling I get what appears to be grey cinder block
dust, or lighter colourd dust, perhaps when I hit a mortar joint.
The wall will likely be a (aerated) concrete block - and produce grey
dust.
Possibly something like this for an internal wall https://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/solid-medium-density-3-6n-concrete-block-100mm
The wall fixing plate of the full motion mount TV bracket is 30cm x
15cm.
Around the size of one aerated concrete block.
As this internal wall is single skin, I'm wondering whether there's
going to be a danger of faliure in fixing to a single block; across
two blocks; or even four blocks( which would bring the fixings close
to each block edge).
Cutting away the dot and dab and plasterboard and inserting a large
piece of plywood with numerous fixing points, as has been suggested,
may be a more realistic option.
But, as I'm not quite the DIYer I was 40 years ago, I don't want to
go to unnecessary extremes. Please advise.
The wall fixing plate of the full motion mount TV bracket is 30cm x
15cm.
Around the size of one aerated concrete block.
As this internal wall is single skin, I'm wondering whether there's
going to be a danger of faliure in fixing to a single block; across two blocks; or even four blocks( which would bring the fixings close to each block edge).
Cutting away the dot and dab and plasterboard and inserting a large
piece of plywood with numerous fixing points, as has been suggested,
may be a more realistic option.
But, as I'm not quite the DIYer I was 40 years ago, I don't want to go
to unnecessary extremes. Please advise.
On Sat, 26 Jul 2025 09:56:00 -0000 (UTC), Tricky Dicky <tricky.dicky@sky.com> wrote:
Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:
The wall fixing plate of the full motion mount TV bracket is 30cm x
15cm.
Around the size of one aerated concrete block.
As this internal wall is single skin, I'm wondering whether there's
going to be a danger of faliure in fixing to a single block; across
two blocks; or even four blocks( which would bring the fixings close
to each block edge).
Cutting away the dot and dab and plasterboard and inserting a large
piece of plywood with numerous fixing points, as has been suggested,
may be a more realistic option.
But, as I'm not quite the DIYer I was 40 years ago, I don't want to
go to unnecessary extremes. Please advise.
I am afraid you are over thinking the issue. If you do decide to
canibalise your plasterboard you will still be fixing your plywood with >>wall plugs and all you will gain is the ability to adjust where you
place the ply in relation to the blocks and being able to fasten the >>bracket direct to wood.
All the dedicated fixings I linked to in a previous post have long wall >>plugs that despite the thickness of the PB and the gap behind it go
quite deep into the blocks behind. They have metal sleeves that prevent
the PB being pulled in when tightening the screws and also prevent the
item being hung exerting a vertical force on the PB.
If your bracket has only one set of fixed holes to fasten to the wall
and you feel you have hit a mortar line with a weak fixing then re-drill >>the holes slightly offset, filling a few holes is a lot less work than >>making a dirty big hole in the wall and making it neat.
As for getting into placing the bracket in one block or spreading it
across several unless you have had some real bodgers of bricklayers the >>wall/block will not move. I think I would be more concerned in getting
the TV placed in a sensible position so it is in eye-line when being >>viewed.
I repeat that I have used all three in various substrates and none have >>failed, the last being a radiator hung on a cinder block wall with tile >>backer board dot & dabbed on and despite giving it a good raunch it is >>still there.
Richard
I've ordered the RigiFix 8m system you recommended. I'm just wondering
how to use them most effectively and safely. I admit I am the belt and
braces type, especially after seeing some of the Youtube horror stories
on the subject.
On Sat, 26 Jul 2025 17:26:15 -0000 (UTC), Smolley <me@rest.uk> wrote:
On Sat, 26 Jul 2025 14:20:38 +0100, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 26 Jul 2025 09:56:00 -0000 (UTC), Tricky Dicky
<tricky.dicky@sky.com> wrote:
Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:
The wall fixing plate of the full motion mount TV bracket is 30cm x
15cm.
Around the size of one aerated concrete block.
As this internal wall is single skin, I'm wondering whether there's
going to be a danger of faliure in fixing to a single block; across
two blocks; or even four blocks( which would bring the fixings close >>>>> to each block edge).
Cutting away the dot and dab and plasterboard and inserting a large
piece of plywood with numerous fixing points, as has been suggested, >>>>> may be a more realistic option.
But, as I'm not quite the DIYer I was 40 years ago, I don't want to >>>>> go to unnecessary extremes. Please advise.
I am afraid you are over thinking the issue. If you do decide to
canibalise your plasterboard you will still be fixing your plywood with >>>> wall plugs and all you will gain is the ability to adjust where you
place the ply in relation to the blocks and being able to fasten the
bracket direct to wood.
All the dedicated fixings I linked to in a previous post have long wall >>>> plugs that despite the thickness of the PB and the gap behind it go
quite deep into the blocks behind. They have metal sleeves that prevent >>>> the PB being pulled in when tightening the screws and also prevent the >>>> item being hung exerting a vertical force on the PB.
If your bracket has only one set of fixed holes to fasten to the wall
and you feel you have hit a mortar line with a weak fixing then re-drill >>>> the holes slightly offset, filling a few holes is a lot less work than >>>> making a dirty big hole in the wall and making it neat.
As for getting into placing the bracket in one block or spreading it
across several unless you have had some real bodgers of bricklayers the >>>> wall/block will not move. I think I would be more concerned in getting >>>> the TV placed in a sensible position so it is in eye-line when being
viewed.
I repeat that I have used all three in various substrates and none have >>>> failed, the last being a radiator hung on a cinder block wall with tile >>>> backer board ?dot & dabbed? on and despite giving it a good raunch it is >>>> still there.
Richard
I've ordered the RigiFix 8m system you recommended. I'm just wondering
how to use them most effectively and safely. I admit I am the belt and
braces type, especially after seeing some of the Youtube horror stories
on the subject.
I have a floor stand to hold mine.
I can't stand it.
On Sat, 26 Jul 2025 09:56:00 -0000 (UTC), Tricky Dicky <tricky.dicky@sky.com> wrote:
Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:
The wall fixing plate of the full motion mount TV bracket is 30cm x
15cm.
Around the size of one aerated concrete block.
As this internal wall is single skin, I'm wondering whether there's
going to be a danger of faliure in fixing to a single block; across
two blocks; or even four blocks( which would bring the fixings close
to each block edge).
Cutting away the dot and dab and plasterboard and inserting a large
piece of plywood with numerous fixing points, as has been suggested,
may be a more realistic option.
But, as I'm not quite the DIYer I was 40 years ago, I don't want to
go to unnecessary extremes. Please advise.
I am afraid you are over thinking the issue. If you do decide to canibalise >> your plasterboard you will still be fixing your plywood with wall plugs and >> all you will gain is the ability to adjust where you place the ply in
relation to the blocks and being able to fasten the bracket direct to wood. >>
All the dedicated fixings I linked to in a previous post have long wall
plugs that despite the thickness of the PB and the gap behind it go quite
deep into the blocks behind. They have metal sleeves that prevent the PB
being pulled in when tightening the screws and also prevent the item being >> hung exerting a vertical force on the PB.
If your bracket has only one set of fixed holes to fasten to the wall and
you feel you have hit a mortar line with a weak fixing then re-drill the
holes slightly offset, filling a few holes is a lot less work than making a >> dirty big hole in the wall and making it neat.
As for getting into placing the bracket in one block or spreading it across >> several unless you have had some real bodgers of bricklayers the wall/block >> will not move. I think I would be more concerned in getting the TV placed
in a sensible position so it is in eye-line when being viewed.
I repeat that I have used all three in various substrates and none have
failed, the last being a radiator hung on a cinder block wall with tile
backer board “dot & dabbed” on and despite giving it a good raunch it is >> still there.
Richard
I've ordered the RigiFix 8m system you recommended. I'm just wondering
how to use them most effectively and safely. I admit I am the belt and
braces type, especially after seeing some of the Youtube horror
stories on the subject.
The wall fixing plate of the full motion mount TV bracket is 30cm x
15cm.
Around the size of one aerated concrete block.
As this internal wall is single skin, I'm wondering whether there's
going to be a danger of faliure in fixing to a single block; across
two blocks; or even four blocks( which would bring the fixings close
to each block edge).
Cutting away the dot and dab and plasterboard and inserting a large
piece of plywood with numerous fixing points, as has been suggested,
may be a more realistic option.
But, as I'm not quite the DIYer I was 40 years ago, I don't want to
go to unnecessary extremes. Please advise.
On Sat, 26 Jul 2025 17:26:15 -0000 (UTC), Smolley <me@rest.uk> wrote:
On Sat, 26 Jul 2025 14:20:38 +0100, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 26 Jul 2025 09:56:00 -0000 (UTC), Tricky Dicky
<tricky.dicky@sky.com> wrote:
Mike Halmarack <mikehalmarack@gmail.com> wrote:
The wall fixing plate of the full motion mount TV bracket is 30cm x
15cm.
Around the size of one aerated concrete block.
As this internal wall is single skin, I'm wondering whether there's
going to be a danger of faliure in fixing to a single block; across
two blocks; or even four blocks( which would bring the fixings close >>>>> to each block edge).
Cutting away the dot and dab and plasterboard and inserting a large
piece of plywood with numerous fixing points, as has been
suggested,
may be a more realistic option.
But, as I'm not quite the DIYer I was 40 years ago, I don't want
to go to unnecessary extremes. Please advise.
I am afraid you are over thinking the issue. If you do decide to >>>>canibalise your plasterboard you will still be fixing your plywood
with wall plugs and all you will gain is the ability to adjust where >>>>you place the ply in relation to the blocks and being able to fasten >>>>the bracket direct to wood.
All the dedicated fixings I linked to in a previous post have long
wall plugs that despite the thickness of the PB and the gap behind it >>>>go quite deep into the blocks behind. They have metal sleeves that >>>>prevent the PB being pulled in when tightening the screws and also >>>>prevent the item being hung exerting a vertical force on the PB.
If your bracket has only one set of fixed holes to fasten to the wall >>>>and you feel you have hit a mortar line with a weak fixing then >>>>re-drill the holes slightly offset, filling a few holes is a lot less >>>>work than making a dirty big hole in the wall and making it neat.
As for getting into placing the bracket in one block or spreading it >>>>across several unless you have had some real bodgers of bricklayers
the wall/block will not move. I think I would be more concerned in >>>>getting the TV placed in a sensible position so it is in eye-line when >>>>being viewed.
I repeat that I have used all three in various substrates and none
have failed, the last being a radiator hung on a cinder block wall
with tile backer board ?dot & dabbed? on and despite giving it a good >>>>raunch it is still there.
Richard
I've ordered the RigiFix 8m system you recommended. I'm just wondering
how to use them most effectively and safely. I admit I am the belt and
braces type, especially after seeing some of the Youtube horror
stories on the subject.
I have a floor stand to hold mine.
I can't stand it.
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